Living Magazine - February/March 2024 by Living Magazine

Spring is

FEB | MARCH 2024

Coming

Business Directory Featuring the best local companies

LA BELLE ÉPOQUE revealed Discover CHÂTEAU D’OIRON France’s LOVE of TRAINS RECIPES, NATURE, NEWS and much, much more...

to our February / March issue

hile it may not feel like it, we are assured the days are getting longer and spring is just around the corner. The snowdrops are out and the daffodils will soon be blooming. After the rains, which we so badly needed, we will all welcome a period of drying-out and I know that our kitchen floor will benefit from a few mud-free days! To brighten what can be a grey time of year, we’ve filled our pages with thoughts of the spring and summer to come. Train travel is enjoying a revival as we search for cleaner alternatives, so we look at France’s long love affair with this mode of transport. We also take a trip to Château d’Oiron, exploring its astounding contemporary art collection within walls dating back centuries—it’s definitely one to add to the ‘must visit’ list. Continuing along the cultural theme, La Belle Époque was an era like no other whose treasures are still visible across so much of the country, as we discover. For the British nationals among our readership, we have an important feature on how to register to vote in upcoming UK elections. After the referendum and subsequent ballots, many of us will be delighted to, at last, have an opportunity to have our say. This is a project close to my heart and one that I will continue to work on alongside the ongoing effort to ensure that our citizens’ rights are upheld as Brexit fades into the rear-view mirror. And, of course, we have our regular features covering nature, recipes, local news, wine, language and so much more. So, all that remains is for Jon and I to thank you for your support over the years. Every advertiser, subscriber, contributor and distributor has helped make this magazine what it is today, something that is enjoyed by so many members of the English-speaking community here in France and further afield. The sale of the magazine is slowly moving forward through the bureaucratic maze and our fingers are crossed that the next issue will be published under new ownership. We are sure you will support them as they settle into their new role. And, if it all falls through, we will be back!

A bientôt!

EDITOR

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Spring is

FEB | MARCH 2024

Coming

Business Directory Featuring the best local companies

LA BELLE ÉPOQUE revealed Discover CHÂTEAU D’OIRON France’s LOVE of TRAINS RECIPES, NATURE, NEWS and much, much more...

EDITOR: Kathryn Dobson SALES: Jon Dobson LAYOUT & GRAPHICS: DM Design REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS: Caro Feely, Gillian Harvey, Jessica Knipe, Emma-Jane Lee, Nikki Legon, Mike Morris,

Roger Moss and Rosie Neave PHOTOGRAPHY: Roger Moss or Shutterstock unless indicated COVER IMAGE: Spring snowdrop flowers in a garden © Petr Jilek/Shutterstock PUBLISHED BY: ANGLO MEDIA & MARKETING, 2 rue Buffefeu, 86400 Linazay, FRANCE

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Local news from around the region

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PRINTED BY: Rotimpres S.A. Dépôt légal: À parution ISSUE: 94 ISSN: 2270-2709

The Love of Trains

You can read Living Magazine and our Summer Guides online and subscribe at www.livingmagazine.fr

As more of us look for alternatives to flying, Roger Moss examines the enduring French love affair with trains

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Material may not be reproduced without the written permission of Anglo Media & Marketing. Toute reproduction même partielle du contenu est interdit sans l’accord écrit de Anglo Media & Marketing. Please ensure you verify that any company you are dealing with is registered in France and/or elsewhere around the world. Veuillez vous assurer que toute société avec laquelle vous traitez est enregistrée en France et/ou ailleurs dans le monde. Articles and adverts in this issue do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher. Les articles et publicités de ce numéro ne reflètent pas nécessairement les opinions de l’éditeur.

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Curiouser & Curiouser Jessica Knipe explores the Château d’Oiron where you should expect the unexpected, prepare to be surprised

La Belle Époque We revisit a time when anything was possible – or so it seemed

It’s time to have your say! An update on voting rights

Nature’s Diversity on our Doorstep Rosie Neave encourages us to plan our outdoor adventures

Practical Advice Your questions answered by our experts

44 42

Caro Feely explains how you can train your sense of smell

We visit Chaniers in Charente-Maritime

Our unique crossword by Mike Morris

Gillian Harvey talks to Haute-Vienne residents who have taken the plunge

British classics for cold winter evenings

Emma-Jane Lee’s regular foray into French

How to Develop your ‘Aroma Brain’

Puzzle Break

Nikki Legon’s Cuisine

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REGIONAL

NEWS ROUND UP UK Family Visas

Population Growth

The release of the 2021 census figures was delayed due to the pandemic and they were finally revealed at the beginning of January 2024. These are the official figures upon which budgetary decisions and more for the next few years will be based. Nouvelle-Aquitaine remains the third most populated region with 6,069,352 residents (behind Ile-de-France and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes). Pays de la Loire has 3,853,999 residents and mainland France has 68.6 million residents in total. When compared with the 2015 census, many communes along the Atlantic coast show strong population growth, especially below the Gironde estuary, with rural communities remaining stagnant or decreasing. If you would like to see the figures for your commune and surroundings, INSEE have developed a detailed interactive map which you can consult at bit.ly/LM2024stats.

There was an outcry in December as the UK Government revealed plans to more than double the income levels required to bring foreign family members of British citizens to live in the UK. The Free Movement organisation in the UK hailed the revision as ‘a very dark day for many families’ who would no longer be able to meet the Minimum Income Requirements (MIR). Changes come into force from April and with only 27% of the UK population earning over this amount, the move was called an ‘effective ban’ on bringing foreign spouses to the UK, particularly damaging for stay-at-home parents or low-income spouses looking to bring families back to the UK. In a move to placate voters, it was announced that the threshold will be increased in stages, from £18,600 to £29,000 in April and then later in the year the threshold will move to £34,500 before reaching £38,700 in early 2025. Alternatively, if the returning UK national cannot meet the MIR, savings can be used but this amount has also doubled from £62,500 to £112,750. There will, however, no longer be a separate child element. Given that a significant portion of the British diaspora have a nonBritish spouse, many will welcome to opportunity to vote now the 15-year rule has been revoked (see our feature on page 35).

New Natural Parks

The Nouvelle-Aquitaine council has announced it will create three new regional parks to protect local biodiversity which will be added to the five existing regional parks. Alongside a park in the Basque mountains on the border with Spain, the ‘Marais du littoral charentais’ and the ‘Gâtine Poitevine’ (marked with green and yellow shading on the map) will be added to the region’s protected spaces. A key element of recent agreements to unlock important funding is the creation of links between protecting the environment and using the spaces for sports such as canoeing, orienteering and cycling as well as hiking and other rural activities.

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2024 CALENDAR

! There are Don’t forget, this year is a leap year weekends y 3-da for ities rtun also plenty of oppo and 4-day ‘ponts’: Lundi de Pâques: Mon 1 April Fête du Travail: Wed 1 May Victoire 1945: Wed 8 May Ascension: Thu 9 May Lundi de Pentecôte: Mon 20 May Fête Nationale: Sun 14 July Assomption: Thu 15 August Toussaint: Fri 1 November Armistice 1918: Mon 11 November Noël: Wed 25 December Jour de l’an 2025: Wed 1 January k up on Children at school in Zone A will brea return and ay holid er wint the for Fri 17 February they break B e Zon In ch. Mar 4 Mon on ol to scho up on Fri 24 February and return on Mon 11 March.

The pick of the news that will affect you wherever you live in south west France…

VISAS FOR Second-Home OwnerS

The right for British nationals to visit second homes in France without having to apply for a long-stay visa was included in the controversial immigration law voted in at the end of 2023. Part of article 1er K, the provision changes French border law, but details of exactly how and when this could come into practice are not yet available. First the law needs to go to the Conseil constitutionnel, the body which assesses new laws for compliance with the French Constitution and, if it passes scrutiny, it will be published in the Journal Officiel. There is still resistance to the measure and so it should not be taken for granted. Only after this can the process of drafting the decree begin for which there is no set timescale. The hope is that British nationals will only need to show proof of home ownership at the border in order to benefit from this new rule but for the foreseeable future you are advised to apply for a visa as before.

School Trips

October 2021 saw the introduction of a new requirement for everyone entering the UK to have a passport, not simply national identity cards. This had an immediate impact on school trips from EU countries to the UK as many children do not have passports, relying on on their European identity card to travel. These new rules caused a huge drop in study trips from the EU to the UK; a survey by the UK Tourism Alliance showed an 84% reduction between 2019 and 2022 with schools choosing English-speaking countries such as Ireland and Malta instead. The updated rules apply only to organised school trips from France with groups from other EU/EEA countries still requiring passports. EU children at school in France can travel with their national ID although children who are citizens of other countries will still require a passport. If there is a need for a visa, this will be waived.

Gun Possession

The new weapons information system established in 2022 ( système d’information sur les armes or SIA) comes into force on 1 February to make it easier to trace legal guns and ensure the correct permits are held. Since the end of 2023 all hunters have been obliged to create an online account and declare their rifles, and now all other weapons held privately must be listed. For details of the weapons which must be declared and the procedure to do so, see sia.detenteurs.interieur.gouv.fr.

Garden Visits

Inaugurated in 2014, Open Gardens, the association which coordinates the opening of private gardens to the public for the benefit of charities, is celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2024. The calendar begins with a visit to the snowdrop garden of Sheila and Ian Cole on 3 and 10 February and if you purchase an annual membership card (€15) you can visit as many gardens as you like. Find out more at opengarden.eu.

Smoking Ban

As part of its ambitious drive for ‘the first tobacco-free generation’ in France by 2032, smoking is being banned in more places. Some beaches do already implement a smoking ban under local laws and this is now being extended to all beaches as well as public parks, forests and around public buildings such as schools. In 2025, cigarettes will increase to €12 per packet and ways to ban single-use vapes known as puffs are being investigated. The smoking rate for 17-year-olds has already dropped to 16% in 2022 from 25% in 2017, although almost 25% of adults in France still smoke daily. Tobacco causes 75,000 avoidable deaths each year.

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Île de Ré

LA ROCHELLE Surgeres Île de Oléron

Rochefort

CHARENTE-MARITIME (17) Marennes Saintes Cognac Royan

Ruffec

Rouillac Jarnac

CONFOLENS

CHARENTE (16)

ANGOULEME Barbezieux Aubeterresur-Dronne

NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION...

LES CHARENTES Water Tables

Le P’tit Train

The popular Saint-Trojan (17) tourist train has been a regular fixture on the Île d’Oléron since it was first launched in 1963. However, the violent storms in November left their mark on the island and its coastline along which the train runs. Erosion threatened to undercut the train tracks leaving the rails unstable and so, to ensure that the train was able to run this summer, the manager of the attraction, François Bargain began remedial work. After only two days, though, the préfecture ordered him to stop as no authorisation had been given without which he faced up to two years in prison and a €75,000 fine. The train route runs through the forests and along Gatseau beach where the erosion by the Atlantic waves and winds is thought to be the most severe seen in Europe. Each year, the ocean erodes between 10-20m of the coastline which is protected by a Natura 2000 classification. Discussions are underway to find a solution as the team still hopes the train can begin its season on 17 February for the island’s Fête du Mimosa.

It will not come as any surprise to those living in the region that the underground water tables have been replenished this winter after years of drought. Indeed, the recent flooding of the Charente river in Cognac and Saintes showed the extent to which the underground watercourses were unable to take any more and this is confirmed with the recent report published by the geological service BRGM. Deep blue areas show where the subterranean water levels are very high, with green average and yellow through to red showing low to very low. The arrows represent the water table level compared to the last 15 years which confirms this winter the water table has been replenished more than normal. The forecast is for a wet start to the year and so it is likely that flooding will continue across the region. The report can be found on www.brgm.fr.

Boisbuchet Forest Trail

Famous for its design workshops and innovative buildings, the Domaine de Boisbuchet at Lessac (16) has opened a new activity open until 5 May. ‘The World of Forests’ is a forest trail designed as part of the ‘Cultures Connectées 2021’ initiative, a programme to foster the integration of digital technology into cultural experiences. In partnership with regional organisations, the trail through the domaine’s 60-hectare forest took two years to develop. The 2km route passes varied topography and flora and is lined with buildings and installations created in Boisbuchet’s renowned design workshops. A website, accessible via smartphone at the start of the walk, explains the scientific, cultural, historical, economic, and ecological aspects of the forest in general, and its local and regional significance in particular. Entry is free, the trail begins at the oil mill and comprises 12 stations, each of which invites visitors to explore different aspects of the forest. Over the coming year a further 12 stations will be added.

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NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION...

Electric Fleet

La Rochelle has made a significant investment in its aim to become a zerocarbon city and has been awarded the “5-star” Engaged Territories ClimateAir-Energy label, the highest level of distinction awarded by ADEME (the French agency for ecologal transition). Only ten cities in France have achieved this accolade. Anyone visiting the city will have seen the Yélo bicycle rental stands as well as the autonomous mini-buses which have been rolled out in the city centre. Now, after a number of trials, the Yélo fleet has added 11 fully electric buses, made in Deux-Sèvres by the IVECO-Heuliez group. 171,000 fewer litres of diesel will be used each year (resulting in savings of €110,000), while 440 tonnes of CO2 emissions will be avoided.

Mother’s Day

Don’t miss this year’s celebration wherever you are! The dates are: UK: Sunday 10 March USA: Sunday 12 May France: Sunday 26 May

Bumper Harvest

COURVOISIER SALE

Italian drinks group Campari has entered into exclusive negotiations to acquire the Jarnac-based cognac house Courvoisier for US$1.2 billion from its current owners, American/Japanese Beam Suntory. Founded in 1828 it is the youngest of the ‘big four’ historical houses, but it has changed hands five times over the past 60 years. It is hoped that moving to a smaller group will give stability to the brand which, like many other cognacs, has seen its sales falling recently. The Campari group is already well established in the area, owning Grand Marnier and Bisquit cognac. It is expected that the purchase will be completed this year.

Despite erratic weather, the 2023 Charentais grape harvest was so abundant that winegrowers and distillers worry that they will not be able to distil all their crop in time to meet the 31 March deadline to finish the distillation process as stipulated in the cognac appellation’s specifications. In an exceptional move, BNIC (the representatives of the cognac industry) supported by UGVC (the union of cognac producers) have requested an extension of the distillation period by an additional ten days. Affecting 1,200 Charentais winegrowers who own their own stills and a further 120 professional distillers, this dilemma follows the challenge of harvesting and storing the bumper crops after the high temperatures at the end of a wet season meant picking started early. Many distillers fired up their stills up to a month earlier than usual, but finding enough vats in which to store the eauxde-vie has posed the next challenge. While the American market is struggling so much that trading teams have revised their sales volume expectations downwards by nearly a fifth, this may give the industry an opportunity to rebuild reserves depleted by recent bad harvests. Initial estimates have suggested that the harvest is up to 18% over the 2022 figures.

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LE PARC SAUVAGE

Forests SOS

Forests in France cover nearly a third of the land, absorbing 63 million tonnes of carbon dioxide each year as well as being central to the hexagon’s biodiversity. It is estimated that 5,213 species and subspeices of trees can be found in French forests (both mainland and overseas) making France the fifth most-forested country. Ancient deciduous forests are an essential part of the landscape that makes Dordogne so unique but there is battle to maintain their diversity in the face of the profitibility of maritime and Scots pine plantations. Softwoods grow faster and are easier to manage, harvest and use for fabrication, so traditional forests where oak, beech and chestnut trees grow alongside other species are being replaced by a pine monoculture. Not only is this harmful to biodiversity but the pines fuel catastrophic fires like the ones seen in recent years through Dordogne and Charente-Maritime. To fight against the power of forestry groups focused on financial gain, a resistance movement is developing driven by associations, both national and local. ‘Le collectif SOS forêt France’ and ‘Le Réseau pour des Alternatives Forestières’ lead the national campaign but locally associations such as ‘SOS Forêt Dordogne’ and more recently ‘Troncs Communs’ are taking up the battle. As well as informing and lobbying, the associations use donations to buy and manage local woodlands. 30 local residents came together to form the forestry group ‘Troncs Communs’ with the aim of acquiring forests around Bourdeilles, Brantôme, Paussac and Leguillac-de-Cercles. Now with nearly 60 members, they have purchased their first parcels which will be managed sustainably. Meanwhile, other organisations such as ‘Créateur de Forêt’ raise the funding required to plant new woodlands mirroring the biodiversity that has been lost locally. They have several sites under development around the region where a donation of €6 funds 1m2 of woodland which will then be managed to be enjoyed by future generations.

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Faced with going into receivership and needing to rehome or euthanise its 200 animals, the animal park at La Tour-Blanche-Cercles asked for help from the public. As well as receiving €102,000 of donations, a benefactor stepped forward to contribute €100,000 over three years. The park needs to find another €100,000 to clear its debts, incurred when keeping the animals fed through the pandemic lockdowns. Inaugurated in 2019, the 28-hectare park had little idea of what it was to face in its first few years. It now runs with the help of eight volunteers and owner Alexandre Duguetis is hoping that the money raised will allow the courts to keep the park open while the remaining funds needed are found.

Pet Cemetary

The loss of a loved pet can be a traumatic time. In response to owners who wish to give their companion a permanent resting place, Le Sanctuaire des 4 Pattes in Saint-Astier has opened a cemetary for pets weighing under 40kg. Set in a wooded area, pets can be interred or their ashes scattered in a remembrance garden, with or without a simple ceremony. The sanctuary also have a workshop on site manufacturing pet urns and coffins. This is the first of its kind in Dordogne. Prices start from €40, see lesanctuairedes4pattes.fr.

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Pick up a bargain from our wonderful donations of clothing, crockery, glassware, books, CDs, furniture and more. Enjoy a tea or coffee with a slice of something nice at the café and a treat at the Brit Shop - helping animals in need.

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Thouars

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de outier

Monts

St Gilles

Bressuire

e is

St Jean de

a nt Na

Montalgu Les Herbiers Croix de Vie LA ROCHE SUR-YON Les Sables d’Olonne

Parthenay

Chantonnay

VENDÉE (85)

Luçon La Tranche sur Mer

DEUX SEVRE (79)

St-MaixentL’école

NIORT taise

Sévre Nior

Melle

NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION...

DEUX-SÈVRES & VENDÉE

Nutritional Scores

Otters Return

Signs of otters in and around Niort (79) have delighted local environmentalists after the small mammals were last seen in the area in the 1970s when they were still hunted. This is particularly good news as Niort has applied for a 152-hectare site, beginning at the Marais de Galuchet, to become a nature reserve, a first in mainland France. This urban site follows the Sèvre-Niortaise and includes land owned by several different individuals. Rather than purchase the land, the city council has worked with the landowners to bring the project to fruition. Not all landowners agreed to participate, but many more support the creation of the nature reserve; a local angelica farmer has even changed their business practices to become certified as organic to be involved. The project has been approved at a local level and now enters a period of consultation before a final decision from the Conseil Régional Nouvelle-Aquitaine which is expected by the end of the year. If approved, the newly arrived otters will have their future in the city centre protected along with many other species already inhabiting the site.

Everyone who has shopped in a supermarket will be familiar with France’s nutri-score system which grades the nutritional ratings of foods from A (most nutritious) to E (least nutritious). This traffic-light system is a quick way to evaluate foods that you pick up with regards to fibre, fat, sugar and salt. This year, the grading is changing with more emphasis on the salt and sugar values which will see some popular foods, such as sugary breakfast cereals, being downgraded. It is also expected that red meat will fall below poultry while certain vegetable oils and fish will increase their score. As the label remains optional, there is the possibility that some producers will remove the label from their goods although there are discussions underway as to whether it should become mandatory.

Speeding Fines

Following an announcement by the Minister of the Interior last year, speeding below 5km/h above the limit is no longer punishable by the loss of a point on your driving license (in France you begin with 12 points and points are deducted for various offences). However, a fine of between €45 and €135 will still be payable. In 2020, more than 7.2 million fine notices were sent out for speeding violations of between 1 and 5km/h; in 2022 this rose to 7.9 million. The relaxation of this rule has not been well received by road safety campaigners who believe it sends out the wrong message to drivers. It does, however, benefit drivers on foreign licenses as they will no longer need to exchange their license for minor speed infractions.

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Composting at Home

Organic waste recycling became mandatory in France from the beginning of the year under the the anti-waste Loi AGEC. Both households and businesses are required to dispose of organic matter either in a dedicated small bin for home collection or at a municipal collection point. Local authorities are also obliged to provide an easy method for households to compost or separate organic waste. It has become clear that many councils are behind with plans, for example, the La Roche-sur-Yon (85) council has only supplied one-third of homes with an individual composter despite the availability of a Green Fund from the State to help.

NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION...

Too Many Tourists

Les Sables-d’Olonne (85) has become a victim of its own success and after years of welcoming tourists, the town has finally said it is too busy. With 55,000 residents and up to 280,000 visitors per day in high season, the town council has announced that it is now quality over quantity that is important to safeguard the local heritage and environment. However, tourism is worth nearly €400 million to the town and accounts for almost a fifth of jobs and so to not jeopardise the economy, the aim is to smooth the arrival of visitors and promote higher-value out-of-season visits. Investment in cycle routes and public transport is also being evaluated while the development of high-end accommodation such as a large capacity 5-star hotel is being considered.

Marais Worries

The past few months of flooding in and around the Marais Poitevin has led to concerns over the future of the marshland. The wet marshland features channels which take the water to the sea allowing the dry marshland on either side to be farmed. Dykes stop the dry marsh flooding but these are expensive to maintain. Some areas are protected and so are maintained by the State but many areas rely on local farmers to mend the dykes, something that is becoming more difficult and costly especially as tourism takes over from agriculture. Dating back to the Middle Ages, this fragile ecosystem is a haven for wildlife and one that needs protecting in the face of the climate crisis.

Loudon

Chatellerault

POITIERS

VIENNE (86)

Chauvigny Montmorillon

Le Dorat

Charroux Civray

Bellac Nieul

Rochechouart

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VIENNE & NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION... HAUTE-VIENNE

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LIMOGES

HAUTE-VIENNE (87)

St-Yriex-la-Perche

Fun & Games

Driving at 17

The lowering of the legal driving age was announced last June by Prime Minister Elisabeth Borne and came into force at the beginning of 2024. The aim of the reform is to increase the mobility of young people, particularly those who are working. For rural families, driving is an essential skill and being able to get your license one year earlier will make a significant difference. However, exam places are still in short supply, often with a waiting time of up to 3 months, so the additional demand will be challenging to meet. In Vienne there are only six examiners for the whole department - at least two more are needed to meet short term demand. Once a learner has passed their exam, they will still need to complete the probationary period as before.

Egyptian Season

La Vienne has launched its new tourist destination brand after extensive consultation with tourism professionals. Department president Alain Pichon announced: “We are going to breathe new life into the tourism development of the department! This translates in particular into strong and coherent LE LOGOTYPE communication, with a fun, colourful and inventive approach.” With attractions such as Futuroscope, Vallée des Singes and Center Parcs, the department sees itself as a family destination so, along with a new typography, a family of playful creatures, Les LUDiKS, has been introduced. These mischievious beings will welcome and guide visitors through fun and friendly experiences throughout the department, enhancing the tourism offerings. They will feature on posters LA SIGNATURE and online, inviting visitors to enter a universe full of discoveries. After a decade of being branded as ‘La Vienne, pays du Futuroscope’, the aim is for the new branding to reflect the SKiDUL SEL wealth of different experiences available rather than focus only on the leisure park. A new tagline has been unveiled—À vous de jouer !—which translates as ‘over to you’ or ‘your turn’ to continue the playful theme. The branding will next be reviewed in 2028.

Limoges Beaux-Arts Museum is hosting an exhibition featuring the collection of Jean-André Périchon-Bey (18601929). Born in Bessines-sur-Gartempe (87) he travelled to Egypt as a railway engineer before becoming director of a sugar factory. Abbas Helmy II, the last Khedive of Egypt and the Sudan, gave him the title ‘Bey’ which is similar to a Lordship. He returned to France shortly before the First World War with over 4,000 pieces of Egyptian art. On his death, he bequeathed his collection to Limoges where it was housed in several museums. Two specialist curators have worked with the Musée des Beaux-Arts to develop ‘Un vie en Egypte’ which takes visitors back to Egypt at the end of the 19th century to the home of Périchon-Bey. The exhibition runs until 4 March.

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Saving Energy

In an effort to save money on sky-rocketing heating costs, the Poitiers city council has taken drastic action. Alongside closing many sports halls and swimming pools over the winter break at the end of 2022, they also reduced the temperature in all public buildings to 19°C. The temperature of water in swimming pools was reduced and the total saving for the city was just under €1 million.

NEWS FROM AROUND THE REGION... ©️ ANNE CHOPIN | DRAC NOUVELLE-AQUITAINE , CRMH POITIERS

POOL CREATION IN THE VIENNE RENOVATION OF ALL BRANDS SPAS

La Forteresse de Berrye

The latest recipient of a grant from the loto du patrimoine or heritage lottery is located in the north of Vienne. Awarded €300,000, the maximum grant available, the funding will help restore the 12th-century fort. Built from soft tuffeau, a local limestone, the walls are falling into disrepair and several roofs need attention. The overall budget required to renovate the privately owned fort is reported to be around €4 million with the work planned to be completed by 2026.

Centre Stage

When RTL Matin, the morning programme of the French commercial radio network RTL, mocked Limoges, the city took it in good spirits and invited the hosts to come and see for themselves. It began when American actress Eva Longoria declared in an interview on Canal+ “I love Limoges” after she had visited with her ex-husband, basketball player Tony Parker. The RTL hosts joked that this was rarely heard, even from a Limougeaud, and the scene was set for an invitiation to be sent. With an average of 1.5 million listeners each morning, this was too good an opportunity for the city to miss and the programme accepted the offer to broadcast the show from Les Halles. The broadcast was declared a great success for all, so much so that other cities are now picking up the phone to try to arrange their own morning shows.

WATER ANALYSIS DECORATION

16 | LIVING TRANSPORT Below and Far Right: Preserved express locomotive 141 R 1126 leaves Cahors. Centre: Le Petit Train Jaune, Pyrénées Catalanes.

The Love of Trains As more of us look for alternatives to flying, we examine the enduring French love affair with trains.

WORDS & PHOTOS: ROGER MOSS

fter decades of quietly ‘getting on with the job’, rail systems everywhere are now enjoying a sizeable revival, fuelled by their increasingly important contributions to efforts for cutting carbon emissions. Transport is a major polluter, so arguments for encouraging us to make fewer car journeys (and abandon altogether internal flights) and take the train instead are compelling, as the results of climate change impact on our everyday lives. On the other hand, we might not need too much persuading to make the switch, for

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the romantic image of rail travel has somehow survived the passage of time, despite (or perhaps because of) the string of upgrades which have transformed the French rail network over the years. It seems we just love trains – but why, exactly? Today it’s hard to grasp the extent to which the arrival of the railways transformed life in France, or the rapidity with which the changes occurred. Back in 1828 France possessed just 18 km of railway track, laid to transport coal in horse-drawn wagons from mines around Saint-Étienne to

the port of Andrézieux on the banks of the Loire, to be loaded onto barges. Four years later the line inaugurated France’s first passenger services and by 1888 the country had constructed around 25,000 km of railway track. Rather less surprising is the fact that most of the routes radiated from the capital, and by the mid-1850s Parisians were able to discover for themselves the pleasures of tourism, previously the preserve of wealthy travellers on their grand tours. Among the south west’s beneficiaries from early rail tourism and freight

LIVING TRANSPORT | 17 Sarlat (24)

services were Poitiers, Niort, Rochefort, La Rochelle, Bordeaux, Arcachon and Bayonne, along with Limoges and Périgueux, further inland. For anyone escaping from the daily pressures of city life the lure of destinations like these would have been irresistible, while the succession of unfamiliar landscapes through which their journeys had passed en-route must have been a revelation. Making all this possible was the power of the steam locomotive and the skills of those who drove them. Today we travel by TGV with barely a second thought for the crews, but in the age of steam, travellers disembarking at their journey’s end would walk past the mighty locomotive which had brought them there and glance up at the driver and fireman with a respect bordering on hero worship. While postwar Britain continued to invest in steam power for many years (constructing new locomotives until 1960), the sheer scale of wartime destruction sustained by the French

rail network and the work needed to rebuild things prompted a very different approach. In 1938 France possessed 15,000 steam locomotives, playing a vital role in sustaining not only passenger services but also much of the French economy. Most were modern, highly efficient designs, but between them they were consuming nine million tons of coal annually, mostly mined beneath French soil, with imports from Belgium, Germany and the UK. The supplies were stocked at twenty-five main sites across France, then distributed to around 250 engine sheds, a costly process which itself consumed valuable coal. Add to this the onerous costs of scheduled overhauls and the time-consuming daily routine to prepare steam locomotives for use and it’s no surprise that as early as 1920 France had already begun electrifying parts of the rail network. The story of SNCF’s postwar rebuilding and modernisation and how it continues to the present day, to replace environmentally unacceptable

diesel-hauled traffic, is one we’ll tell in another issue of LIVING. Here we’ll look instead at the growing interest in preserved steam and early electric railways. Once widely regarded as a slightly ‘nerdy’ minority pursuit, interest in classic trains has blossomed in recent years, as the sanitised efficiency of modern day rail travel has awakened memories – real or imagined – of what we now think of as l’age d’or of the train. In fact, the wave of nostalgia for all bygone forms of transport has been growing steadily throughout France. In the north of our region, for example, the Chemin de Fer de la Vendée operates between Mortagne-sur-Sèvre (85) and Les Herbiers, using steam and diesel locomotives, and takes in some impressive multi-arched viaducts. The Association CCV’s historic rolling stock includes painstakingly restored Pullman and Grandes Express restaurant carriages. Also rating high among the most scenic settings is the Chemin de Fer

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18 | LIVING TRANSPORT

Above: Le Chemin de Fer de la Vendée Right: British-built survivors of SNCF’s 140 C steam locomotives Below: The summer tourist train between la Pointe de Grave le Verdon & Soulac (33)

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PHOTO LEFT: A. LAMOUREUX/VENDÉE EXPANSION

Touristique du Haut-Quercy, whose Train à Vapeur de Martel makes 13km return journeys between Martel (46) and St-Denis-Les-Martel, sections of the line having been cut into cliffs high above the Dordogne during the 1880s, and which once transported local truffles on a route which linked Aurillac with Bordeaux. Around 20km north of Liborne (33) is the Train Touristique Guîtres-Marcenais, which has been operating steam and diesel-hauled passenger services between the two towns since 1973. What’s more, most of the carriages date from the 1900s, making for an atmospheric experience. Meanwhile, near the Atlantic coast the Train des Mouettes operates summer services between Saujon (17) and La Tremblade (21kms), with stops at Fontbedeau, Mornac-sur-Seudre, Chaillevette, Etaules and Arvert. Its oldest steam locomotive dates from 1891 and is listed as a Monument Historique. Just across the Gironde you can ride in open carriages through pine forests between Pointe de Grave and Le Verdon (33) as well as Soulac and Les Arros on a line inaugurated during the 1920s to transport stone to construct coastal defences. During WWII it was commandeered by German forces for the construction of the Fort d’Arros and now delights summer visitors.

LIVING TRANSPORT | 19

Find Out More... As you would expect, these ‘Chemins de Fer Touristiques’ operate most of their services during the summer months, with some seasonal specials (including Christmas and New Year), so check their respective websites for dates and timetables when planning a visit. Some lines also offer more hands-on experiences, in the form of instruction in driving a steam locomotive (‘stage vapeur’). You’ll find further details of dates, timetables, booking details, etc. below: Le Chemin de Fer de la Vendée www.en.vendeetrain.fr Le Chemin de Fer Charente Limousine: www.cf-charentelimousine.fr Autorail Limousin www.autorail-limousin.fr Chemin de Fer Touristique du Haut-Quercy trainduhautquercy.info Train Touristique Guîtres-Marcenais www.trainguitres.fr Le Train des Mouettes www.traindesmouettes.fr Le Petit Train Touristique www.medoc-atlantique.co.uk/fiches/ le-petit-train-touristique-p-g-v-s/ Le Petit Train de La Rhune www.rhune.com Le Train Rouge www.letrainrouge.fr

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20 | LIVING TRANSPORT

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Further south, an electrically powered rack railway has been carrying passengers since 1924 up to the 905m summit of La Rhune for panoramic views of the Basque Coastline below Biarritz (64). Remarkably, the vintage locomotives and lovingly restored carriages are still in service. If you’re in or near northern Charente you’ll no doubt be aware of the Chemin de Fer Charente Limousine, whose volunteers reinstated a long-abandoned section of a route inaugurated in 1887 between Confolens (16) and Roumazières via Ansac-sur-Vienne and Manot. The diverse rolling stock includes several classic railcars which were once a common sight on nonelectrified routes throughout France. Over in neighbouring Limousin there are some more interesting summer specials employing preserved vintage rolling stock. As its name suggests, Autorail Limousin runs excursions in classic railcars from Limoges – 2023 destinations included Cahors and Orléans. There are also railcar runs between Guéret and Felletin. Limoges has become a centre of great interest for steam fans, being the home of the impressively titled Association Conservatoire Ferroviaire Territoires

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Limousin Périgord, which operates steam-hauled summer journeys between the Gare de Limoges Bénédictins and Eymoutiers. 2023 also saw specials running between Périgueux and Les Eyzies, with an optional extension to Le Buisson. The trains comprise up to five faithfully restored period coaches hauled by a choice of two Monument Historique-listed locomotives, one constructed in France in 1932, while its companion was built in the UK in 1919. What’s more, currently undergoing restoration is the very last of 79 powerful locomotives built between 1912 and 1921 to haul crack express services. In fact, 2131 K82 was at the head of the very last Flèche d’Or (Golden Arrow) run between Amiens and Calais in 1969. Here in the south west our preserved railways attract countless summer visitors, generating welcome economic benefits for villages sited along them. They also reward the work of dedicated teams of volunteers who have rescued them and their rolling stock after years of dereliction, and whose efforts make them viable. If you’d like to join them then you’ll be warmly welcomed – their respective websites tell you how to get involved.

Top L & R: Le Train de La Rhune (64); Above & Below: Vintage railcars, Manot and Confolens (16)

LIVING TRANSPORT | 21

Le Grand Tour If you thought that the glamour of rail travel was gone forever, and wish that somehow you could relive it, you’re in good company. The same thought occurred to the team behind Le Puy du Fou, a world-renowned family attraction in Vendée whose speciality is allowing visitors to feel that they’ve been transported miraculously to witness seminal events unfolding from 2,000 years of French history. Having amassed a wealth of expertise, the team decided to recreate the golden age of luxury travel by train. The result is Le Grand Tour, which promises an immersive retrochic experience during an unforgettable 4,000 kilometre circular tour, taking in some of the most celebrated wonders of France. The journey begins in Paris, and during the next six days and five nights its passengers will disembark to discover the rich history, traditions, architecture, skills and gastronomy of locations including Reims, Beaune, Avignon, Tarascon, Carcassonne, Pau, Arcachon, La Rochelle, Chenonceau and, of course, Le Puy du Fou. ‘Travelling in style’ has real meaning, too, with spacious, luxuriously appointed en-suite cabins and suites decorated in authentic period style, with modern-day comforts including air conditioning, wifi and butler-style room service. Voyagers will also enjoy fine dining in considerable style in a sumptuously decorated restaurant car, whose menus are prepared by a 3-star chef from fresh locally sourced produce. Full details: www.legrandtour.com

Programme et itinéraire donnés à titre indicatif et susceptibles d’être modifiés sans préavis.

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22 | LIVING ART & CULTURE

The Château d’Oiron has one of France’s best remaining examples of a Renaissance ‘galerie des peintures’

Curiouser & Curiouser A trip to this imposing castle in the middle of the countryside will get your eyes opening wider than you ever thought they could. Expect the unexpected... WORDS & PHOTOS: Jessica Knipe www.livingmagazine.fr

LIVING ART & CULTURE | 23

In every room,ornate walls and ceilings are paired with striking pieces of contemporary art

ucked between the rolling fields of the Deux-Sèvres, half way between Angers and Poitiers and about an hour away from Niort, stands a real-life time machine. Venture inside and allow it to take you on a journey from its medieval origins, through the captivating years of the Renaissance, all the way to the striking contributions of contemporary artists of today. To walk through its halls is a transformative experience, one which will make you reappraise what it actually means to be curious. The construction of the Château d’Oiron dates back to the 15th century, when it was commissioned by members of one of the most important families in French nobility, the Gouffiers. As a fortress, built in a strategic location,

it played a crucial role during the tumultuous period of the Hundred Years’ War, but over the centuries, the Château has undergone several renovations which have transformed it from a defensive stronghold into a gorgeous residence that echoed the evolving architectural styles of its time. In the 16th century, and under the command of Claude Gouffier, the Château d’Oiron became a vibrant centre for intellectual and artistic exchange; influential figures of the Renaissance, including poets, philosophers, and artists, were drawn to the castle, contributing to its reputation as a beacon of cultural enlightenment. Claude had the prestigious title of Grand Écuyer de France, otherwise known as the person who takes care of the King’s horses,

but this humanist, Renaissance man was also one of the most active art collectors in France’s history, and managed to add several paintings to his walls that now hang in the Musée du Louvre. Although the Château’s imposing stone walls, towers and turrets still showcase its medieval origins, as soon as you walk through the impressive red front door (and visitors are encouraged to move around as if they owned the castle themselves, turning handles and walking through doors with confidence), the atmosphere transforms into a showcase of Renaissance opulence: delicate arcades, ornate decorations, intricate detailing with sculpted friezes all add up to a visual feast that couldn’t possibly leave you indifferent. And thanks to the

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24 | LIVING ART & CULTURE

“Fast forward a few years to the 1980s, and the Centre des Monuments Nationaux gave the castle its second Renaissance”

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LIVING ART & CULTURE | 25

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A doorway at the top of a tiny spiral staircase opens onto an entire room draped in Sol LeWitt’s Wall Drawing #752; colourful modern tapestries play off the geometry of the original Arlequin ceiling; Tom Shannon’s Decentre-Acentre seems to levitate in the Tour des Ondes; in the old kitchens, shapes are reflected and transformed in Markus Raetz’s Silhouette and Piotr Kowalski’s Identité 4; the Château’s imposing façade translates how important its owner was at the time it was built

staggering stained glass windows, the subtle interplay of light and shadow creates a mysterious atmosphere that makes it easy to feel like you’ve stepped far back in time. One of the most important artistic contributions Claude Gouffier made to the castle was the Galerie des Peintures. Running at 55 metres along an entire wing of the Château, it is, along with its counterpart at Fontainebleau, the best preserved examples of its kind today and showcases along its painted walls the ancient history of Troy. As provoking as the incredibly ornate ceilings, walls and floors may be, they are made even more intriguing by their juxtaposition with the striking, modern art commissioned especially to be hung next to them.But that didn’t happen until much later.

As time went by, and despite architectural contributions by people such as Madame de Montespan (Louis XIV’s mistress), the castle was gradually abandoned and forgotten. When, in 1923, the castle was found in a state of almost ruin, it was swiftly listed as a historical monument that needed protection, and bought by the State in 1943. Fast forward a few years to the 1980s, and the Centre des Monuments Nationaux gave the castle its second Renaissance, with a massive restauration project that would make it into the place of artistic expression that it is today. In a nod to the “Cabinet de Curiosités” that Claude Gouffier had created in his time, the contemporary art collection started 30 years ago at the Château d’Oiron has been named “Curios &

Mirabilia”. The works of art nestle within the walls that are works of art themselves, and give the visitor the chance to re-examine what art actually means. Just think, the Galerie des Peintures would have been just as radical to its 16th century viewers as Marina Abramović’s “Room for Departure” at the top of the Tour des Ondes is to us today... Other big names of the art world that have been invited to contribute are Raoul Marek, who drew the profile of 150 inhabitants of the nearby town onto the plates hung in the library, as well as giving them a glass carved with their initials and a serviette that follows the lines of their hands; each year they are invited to the castle to dine using their own dedicated artwork, in an event that has become a comment

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26 | LIVING ART & CULTURE Living crèches and nativity stories are popular across the region

ABOVE: Raoul Marek imagined a set of plates, glasses and serviettes unique to 150 locals, who are invited to use them at dinner each year at the Château; BELOW: Bill Culbert’s Small Glass Pouring Light has a playful link with the name of the room it’s set in (Salle des Ampoules); BOTTOM RIGHT: Charles Ross’ Brûlures solaires and Double Spirale show 365 pieces of wood burned by the sun through a lens in New Mexico

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Find Out More OPENING TIMES 1 June - 30 September: 10h30 - 18h30 1 October - 31 May: 10h30 - 17h30 See: www.chateau-oiron.fr

on the passage of time – each year fewer and fewer plates come down from the display as the inhabitants gradually pass away… Further on, one of the old servant’s rooms has been renamed Salle des Ampoules to house Bill Culbert’s “Small Glass Pouring Light”, in which 25 glasses of red wine cast shadows in the shape of lightbulbs. In Charles Ross’ room, a scientific experiment to concentrate the sun’s rays through a magnifying glass has created a poetic vision of what happens over a whole year – the sun has burnt 365 panels in a pattern that changes as the seasons progress. It’s an eclectic collection (that includes a unicorn and music written for flies) but one which sparks curiosity at each turn. Although seeing contemporary art within ancient walls isn’t a new idea today, when the Château d’Oiron took on its new incarnation in 1993, its was virtually unheard of. Standing as a testament to the enduring legacy of France’s rich cultural and historical heritage, the castle has seamlessly adapted to the changing tides of time, transcending centuries to celebrate the continuity of creativity and human expression. Whether you like old stones or new ideas, this is one trip that couldn’t possibly leave you unmoved.

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28 | LIVING ARCHITECTURE La Tour LU, Nantes

La Belle Epoque ooking back, was there really ever a Golden Age? Well, for at least one sector of French society there certainly was a time when life was good and filled with possibilities. The period we now refer to as ‘la Belle Époque’ began in late 1871, a turbulent year whose events had scarred the French psyche deeply. In the wake of a humiliating defeat in the Franco-Prussian War, the once-proud nation then found itself compelled to quash by force the uprising of the Paris Commune which had threatened to escalate into full-blown civil war. After having lived through events like these it’s little wonder that as the country began to return to peace and stability, those who were able to benefit from the resulting prosperity viewed the future with renewed optimism. Soon the upbeat mood of privileged city dwellers was being expressed and celebrated in exuberant forms of fashion and entertainment. It’s not by chance that haute couture originated

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We revisit a time when anything was possible – or so it seemed. WORDS & PHOTOS: ROGER MOSS

in Paris, which each year revealed eagerly awaited new fashions, or that restaurants such as Maxim’s rose to prominence as chic night spots in which wealthy socialites would gather, dine and simply be seen. Of course, large public buildings throughout Europe already provided similarly glamorous settings for theatre, concert and opera performances – opulent Baroque or neo-Renaissance style creations, whose interiors employed a wealth of extravagant gilded and trompe l’œil decoration designed to impress. All were upstaged, however, when le Nouvel Opéra de Paris opened in 1875, at the very height of the Belle Époque. Constructed for Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, it soon became

known popularly as ‘le Palais Garnier’, after its architect Charles Garnier (who also designed le Casino Opéra de Monte-Carlo). Wealthy Parisians, overawed by its dazzling splendour from the moment they entered the Versailles-like grand foyer, fell instantly in love with what had effectively given them a palatial setting of their very own. Not surprisingly, la Ville-Lumière’s plentiful financial rewards and growing sense of joie de vivre somehow failed to filter down to brighten the lives of those who continued to toil for a pittance on the land or down in the mines. However, before long many of those who were poised between the two extremes in the provinces found themselves able to embrace at least

LIVING ARCHITECTURE | 29

Le Palais Garnier, Paris

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30 | LIVING ARCHITECTURE Examples can be found in towns and cities across France. Clockwise: Rochefort; Nantes (external and internal); Orléans; Arcachon; Châtellerault.

some of the upbeat mood and gaiety of the Belle Époque. Soon neglected, down-at-heel bars, cafés and restaurants were enjoying a new lease of life by being redecorated in the bright, fashionable taste of the period. Then as now, the heady cocktail of alcohol and merriment got people in the mood to dance, so the tavern-style guinguettes which had sprung up in and around Paris to provide cheap drinks, lively music and a dance floor soon began to appear elsewhere. As we reported in a previous issue of LIVING, les guinguettes of Paris were responsible for spawning a whole new genre of popular music. ‘Balmusette’ took its name from the la musette, a bagpipe-style wind instrument which had been popular in the Auvergne, and which really took off in the capital during the 1890s in the hands of accomplished Auvergnat musicians recruited to play in the bars and restaurants opened by their enterprising compatriots. For the next forty years or so la musette would remain unchallenged as the instrument of choice for social gatherings, but began to fall rapidly out of favour when another previously little-known import from the Auvergne

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put in an appearance. This time it was the turn of the accordion, whose already big sound was more than capable of holding its own in the company of guitars, a double-bass and drums, creating an infectious wall of sound which dancers found irresistible. However, not everyone was quite so ready to abandon their allegiance to la musette. As dissent between rival aficionados became increasingly heated things eventually moved from merely vocal to physical, and violent fights began to break out. To maintain public order, the Parisian chief of police therefore outlawed all bals populaires throughout the city, with the result that many of the guinguettes decided to relocate, notably to the riverbanks of the Seine and Marne. Happily, their faithful clientèle continued to support them and attend events, their numbers boosted by newcomers from Spain, Poland, Argentina, the USA and elsewhere, along with their respective musical influences. Before long those on the dance floors were embracing imported genres like the polka, the mazurka, the fox-trot, the tango, the cha-cha, the paso-doble, the rumba and eventually the java (a slightly risqué fast waltz

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32 | LIVING ARCHITECTURE Boulevard Montmartre, Effet de Nuit (Camille Pissarro, 1897)

L’Intérieur de Chez Bruant Le Mirliton (Louis Anquetin, 1886/7)

"Montmartre became a focus for just about anyone looking for escapist entertainment" variant). In what was clearly something of a social and ethnic melting pot, a good time was nevertheless, by all accounts, had by all. Meanwhile, those with more Bohemian lifestyles were finding their own entertainment in cabarets of Montmartre, in those days a cheap and distinctly louche hilltop shanty community but one which attracted and inspired great artists including Picasso, Degas, Matisse, Renoir and Toulouse-Lautrec. Among the most popular night spots were Le Chat Noir and Le Moulin de la Galette, a working class dance hall celebrated on canvas by Renoir, Picasso and others. Soon the area’s reputation for lively, often raucous cabarets and café-concerts spread, social boundaries became blurred and Montmartre became a focus for just about anyone looking for escapist entertainment. Catering for those slightly higher up the social scale was the Moulin Rouge, which opened in 1889 and staged all manner of increasingly exotic shows, many of which were observed and portrayed in the now familiar graphic imagery of regulars such as Seurat and particularly Toulouse-Lautrec. By the time the 19th century was drawing to a close Montmartre boasted around forty nightspots, although

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its very popularity had inevitably shifted the area’s original appeal as an alternative, even subversive haunt to merely a popular centre for more mainstream entertainment – something freely available to almost anyone living in a city or large town. As the good times continued their effects were expressed in the swirling imagery of Art Nouveau, which was employed to sensational effect both in France and elsewhere by a host of creative artists, architects, furniture designers, glass makers, illustrators, jewellers and sculptors. Before long the style had become omnipresent in everyday life, appearing on colourful painted publicity murals, in printed media and even Hector Guimard’s fantastic entrances to the Paris Métropolitaine, whose distinctive typefaces he also styled. While traditionalists criticised them as being ‘non-French’, others including Salvador Dalí (who considered them ‘divine’) were more enthusiastic, and the 80+ surviving examples now enjoy Monument Historique protection. Guimard had actually received his commission as part of preparations for the capital’s vast Exposition Universelle, which was due to open in 1900, and whose main attraction would be the Tour Eiffel, retained from

its sensational debut at the previous year’s event. Visitors to the 1900 Paris Exhibition would have been awe-struck by such wonders as pavilions and whole villages showcasing the colonies and other nations, a 110-metre big wheel, moving walkways, electric tramways and trolleybuses, motion pictures, theatre and of course music halls. It was a fitting climax to an era filled with upbeat optimism and creative expression, and which would continue to flourish until ending abruptly with the outbreak of the First World War in 1914. The world would never be quite the same, but the legacy has since become known as ‘La Belle Époque’ and continues to infuse the romantic global image of ‘La Belle France’.

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Discover a Warm, Welcoming Community at King’s Community Church Poitou-Charentes

We are all called to follow Jesus and be faithful to His Word and the Gospel message. “I will make you a light for the Gentiles, that my salvation may reach to the ends of the earth.” (Isaiah 49:6b) Welcome to King’s Community Church Poitou-Charentes, a vibrant hub of faith and fellowship in the heart of France. Our journey, rooted in the Anglican tradition, is dedicated to creating a nurturing and inclusive spiritual home for all.

WHAT MAKES US SPECIAL?

A Team of Committed Leaders: Our church is guided by experienced leaders, including Roy Carter, our Senior Minister, and Carolyn Carter, a fully licensed Lay Minister. They, along with our dedicated team, ensure a spiritually enriching experience for every member. We are part of AMiE which stands for Anglican Mission in England and Europe.

Unique Worship Venues: Embrace spirituality in our diverse worship settings - the rustic charm of The Barn in Chaunay (86) and the cozy ambience of the Parish Room in Champagne Mouton (16). We hope to add Nontron (24) soon with Worship Leader Chris Benson. Safety and Well-being: Our commitment to being a ‘Safe Church’ is unwavering, with Vanessa Whyte leading our safeguarding efforts to ensure a secure environment for our congregation.

SPECIAL SERVICES AND COMMUNITY EVENTS

From Zoom services on special Sundays to traditional gatherings for Remembrance Day and Easter, our church is always buzzing with activities.

Carolyn

Chris

Roy

Vanessa

A COMMUNITY OF INCLUSIVITY AND WARMTH

Join us for our services of Morning Worship and Holy Communion, where everyone is greeted with open arms. Our services are followed by a Prayer Ministry, led by Marylyn Dolan, and a ‘Bring and Share’ lunch, fostering a sense of community and belonging.

CELEBRATING LIFE’S MILESTONES

We are here to support you through all of life’s signiﬁcant moments, offering Funeral Ministry, Wedding Blessings, and Baptisms.

JOIN US FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

We invite you to be a part of our growing family. Visit our website or Facebook page for details on our upcoming Good Friday and Easter Day Services 2024, and more. Your journey with us at King’s Community Church PoitouCharentes is just a visit away. A warm welcome awaits you!

kingschurchcharente.com | Tel: 0612 13 70 07 | Facebook: kingsactivities

34 | LIVING VOTING RIGHTS

British citizens living abroad – you can now vote in UK Parliament elections, even if you’ve lived away for over 15 years. Find out more and how to register at electoralcommission.org.uk/overseasvoters

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LIVING VOTING RIGHTS | 35

It's time to have your say!

After over a decade of campaigning, British nationals living abroad have regained the right to vote, however long they have been away.

he Statutory Instrument (SI) detailing the processes by which overseas voters will be able to vote (see the previous issue of LIVING for a fuller explanation) was signed by the Minister on 18 December 2023. This was the final hurdle in a long campaign to overcome the 15-year rule and ensure that all the estimated 3.4 million UK nationals living abroad are able to vote. From 16 January, British citizens living abroad for more than 15 years have been able to register to vote in UK national elections, particularly important now Rishi Sunak has announced that a General Election will be held later this year. It marks a pivotal moment in ensuring the democratic participation of British citizens globally and brings the UK in line with other countries around the world, including France. Why, you may ask, should you engage in the voting process if you no longer live in the UK? Voting is not merely a right but a quintessential element of citizenship. For those living abroad, this right is a critical means of influencing matters that directly affect our lives, whether related to healthcare, immigration, education, or pensions. You may have elderly parents needing care, youngsters at university or claim your state or private pensions from the UK. You may be planning to retire back in the UK or have investments there, all of these are reasons for you to have your say as a citizen of the UK.

WHO IS ELIGIBLE? British citizens, which includes eligible Irish citizens and citizens of Crown Dependencies, may register as overseas voters if they are now living abroad, providing they: • were previously registered to vote in the UK, either before they left the

UK or as an overseas voter, or • were previously resident in the UK. Overseas British citizens must apply to register as a voter using the address where they were last registered to vote in the UK or, if they have never been registered, the last address at which they were resident in the UK.

HOW DO VOTERS REGISTER? Overseas voters apply to register in the same way as any other voter: • online on the government website: www.gov.uk/register-to-vote, • by sending a paper form to the relevant local authority, or • by telephone if the relevant local authority provides that service. Contact details of local authorities across the UK are available to search on the Electoral Commission website. Those who were previously registered will have to provide details about the address and time they were last registered. Those who previously lived in the UK, but were not registered, will need to provide details about the address and time where they were last resident. WHAT PROOF IS REQUIRED? Local authorities, which are responsible for the electoral roll in their area, must be satisfied that the applicant was registered or lived in the area

previously, and must be able to verify an applicant’s identity. They have a number of resources for verifying this information, including checking previous registers, other locally-held records, or evidence provided by the applicant.

HOW OFTEN DO OVERSEAS VOTERS NEED TO REGISTER? Under the new rules, overseas voters need to provide a renewal declaration every three years. Previously, it was every 12 months. A renewal declaration confirms that the details held on the electoral register are accurate and provides an opportunity to update correspondence details if necessary. Registration will need to be renewed before 1 November, three years after the voter registered as an overseas voter, unless the voter has successfully renewed their voter registration in the meantime. It is recommend that, if possible, voters arrange a proxy in the UK to send in their ballot as postal delays have previously caused issues given the limited time available. With so many British nationals living abroad, our votes can make a difference to the future of the UK. Finally, all UK nationals can have their say.

Support British in Europe

British in Europe relies upon donations to continue campaigning for the rights of UK nationals living abroad. Their work has protected many rights through Brexit and the organisation guided the voting legislation through its final stages. By donating, you can help British in Europe protect your rights for years to come.

britishineurope.org Do you

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Contact us, we can: ✮ Provide you with support which is confidential and free of charge ✮ Offer telephone support to you, your family and your carers ✮ Offer support through visits at home and in hospital ✮ Help you to ask the right questions ✮ Guide you to other sources of appropriate advice ✮ Provide access to written information about cancer and its treatment

TO GET IN TOUCH: Helpline: 0800 240 200 Local Dordogne Sud helpline: 05 53 57 43 30 Mobile: 06 77 97 11 36 E mail : helpline@cancersupportfrance.org

LIVING NATURE | 37

Genets originate from Africa but are now commonly found across the region

Nature’s Diversity on our Doorstep Rosie Neave encourages us to start planning our outdoor adventures now the days are beginning to get longer again...

ith the worst of the rainsoaked winter hopefully behind us and the days starting to draw out with lighter evenings, it’s a good time of year to start planning some nature activities for the months ahead. South west France is a wonderfully diverse area nature-wise and there’s lots to discover both on your doorstep and further afield. I love coming across new places and there are a variety of different landscapes to explore across the region, giving plenty of scope for days out or longer weekends away. There are many reasons why spending

Douglas firs can have a diameter of up to 2m

time in nature is a good idea. Even gentle exercise, such as leisurely walks, is good for your physical health and studies have shown that spending time in nature can increase vitamin D levels, which is important for healthy blood cells, bones and immune systems. Nature can be really beneficial to our mental health too - regular access to green spaces has been linked to lower risks of depression and a decrease in anxiety levels. On top of that, daily exposure to natural light helps to regulate sleep and wake cycles, meaning that fresh air really does help you sleep better at night.

Nouvelle-Aquitaine is particularly well known for its remarkable woodlands and forests and there is a rich diversity waiting to be unearthed. The most prominent forested areas are made up of traditional deciduous woodlands of hornbeam, chestnut, oak and beech but there are also some stunning stands of Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) growing in La Creuse (29). While it’s not native to France, having been originally imported from North America in the 1800s, these impressive trees thrive here and can grow to over 55m tall. They also provide perfect homes for red squirrels (Sciurus vulgaris) and pine martens (Martes martes) and many insects. Running down the length of the west coast are some stunning coastal habitats and there is a generous supply of trails and tracks that run through

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38 | LIVING NATURE

In 2024, I’m

Cuckoos are often heard before they are seen

looking out for... Genet (Genetta genetta) La Genette is an incredibly shy, nocturnal mammal which is rarely seen. That said, my daughter saw one a kilometre from our house early one morning from the window of her school bus so I know they are in the area! Fire Salamanders (Salamandra salamandra) These look like they should be a character in a children’s animated movie with bright yellow markings contrasting along a dark black body. Like the genet, they’re nocturnal and whilst I’ve seen many that have been unfortunately run over by cars I’m on a mission to see a live one this year. They spend the day under rocks or logs in damp, wet woodland. Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) The cuckoo arrives towards the end of March or in early April. Despite hearing their distinctive call every year I have yet to see one properly. I almost managed it last year so I’m determined this year will be the year I observe one close up.

Looking for old DEUTZ tractors

F1M 414 & F1L 514 1936-1956

sand dunes, along beaches and rock pools and around salt marshes. Areas such as the Bassin d’Arcachon are rich havens for wildlife and the important Réserve Ornithologique du Teich nearby is especially important for migrating birds. Created in 1972, it is a humid wetland where wildlife flourishes in the heady mix of salt and freshwater and it attracts tens of thousands of birds every year. Inland are rivers and further wetlands which are home to a lot of the incredible flora and fauna of the region. The Marais Poitevin, nicknamed “Green Venice”, is a wonderful place

to relax, recharge and soak up nature’s beauty. With over 50 species of aquatic and land mammals, 250 species of birds and almost 40 species of fish, you are sure to encounter something special in the area. Taking a traditional flatbottomed boat or plate down canals lined with gently weeping willows is a wonderful way to get up close to nature without exerting too much energy while replenishing your soul at the same time. The rolling farmland of Vienne (86) is home to a surprising variety of wildlife. My local area of Civray has 30 signposted walks, comprising 750km,

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LIVING NATURE | 39

Dune du Pilat

Hen harriers soar above swathes of the region

Marais Poitevin

and I love spying out new routes or even just sections of tracks to explore. When I first moved here, I was delighted to realise that the large, elegant birds I saw methodically scouring for prey at a low height were hen harriers or Busard SaintMartin (Circus cyaneus). These birds are incredibly rare in the UK and I’ve been known to occasionally pull the car over to watch them, even now when I see them regularly.

One of the things which I love most about spending quality time outside, surrounded by the natural world, is that you never know what surprises will be in store. I’ve seen so many exciting, awe-inspiring, puzzling and magical things while I’ve been discovering the outdoors and I can’t wait to see what new experiences the months ahead, with spring just around the corner, will bring.

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40 | PRACTICAL LIVING

HELP&MONEY << OUR EXPERTS ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS...

Fosse Septique Regulations

The fosse septique at the house I wish to buy has been declared as 'non-conforming' but it has not be repaired or replaced. What are the implications for me if I proceed?

Major announcements were made at a recent conference in St Malo, relating to changes in the laws governing the requirements to upgrade non-conforming systems. At the same time, there will be an increase in fines for property owners who do not comply with regulations. The conference, hosted by the world’s leading manufacturer of treatment systems, brought together national representatives of SPANC (Le Service Public d’Assainissement Non Collectif, the government organisation responsible for septic tanks or fosses septiques), industry leaders and government officials. Significant tightening of the laws were announced which will affect all property owners who have a non-conforming fosse. The government is to enforce the law that states a nonconforming fosse must be updated to conform within one

year of a house purchase. This is already within all of SPANC's pre-sale controls that are legally part of the contract of sale, the enforcement of this law will see notaires obliged to withhold an undetermined sum to cover the cost of the works. There are already reports of notaires blocking the sale of properties because the vendor has not carried out the work and they are, therefore, in breach of the sales contract that was signed when the house was purchased. Most property owners are unaware that this can happen but as it has been explained to us, the original sales contract includes a provision to make any fosse conform and is a legally binding document which is already enforceable by law. The other key change will see substantial increases in fines for any owner not completing the work required to make their system conform. These will be levied each year until the work is done and will increase annually. In addition to this the inspections by SPANC will become annual and the cost for this, where there is a nonconforming system, will increase by 300%. Indeed, there are already some SPANC authorities

Do you want to improve your French but find you can’t get to lessons? Would you prefer to learn in the privacy of your own home? Try Frantastique, the online course with fun, daily lessons, FREE for one month, and see your French improve. Simply sign up on our website www.livingmagazine.fr www.livingmagazine.fr

who have begun fining owners at these substantially increased rates - one authority is charging more than €800 per year for non-compliance. It was the consensus that these changes, when they become law, will result in an increase to the cost of new equipment, as demand outstrips supply and so the recommendation is to take these changes seriously and try to resolve any non-conforming operations quickly. As regards your purchase, the ball is in the vendor's court. They need to resolve the situation before you purchase the house otherwise you will have to pay the fines and ensure the system conforms.

David Nunn owns Southwest France Fosse and has been installing fosses septiques across the region for over 15 years. They are one of the few English speaking companies included on many SPANC's approved installer list and adherent study office list. Find out more at: www.southwestfrancefosse.com

PRACTICAL LIVING | 41

Financial Advisers

What are the differences between a financial adviser regulated in the UK and one regulated in France?

One important consideration to keep in mind following Brexit is that any advice given by a UK-regulated financial adviser to a non-UK resident may not be covered by the UK Financial Conduct Authority’s regulatory jurisdiction (which primarily covers activities within the UK). This means that if you are a non-UK resident receiving financial advice from a UK regulated adviser, you may not

receive the same level of regulatory protection as UK residents. Additionally, since Brexit, most UK advisers are not authorised to give advice to EU residents. If you are a French resident seeking financial advice, it is prudent to consult a financial adviser based in and regulated in France. A French licensed adviser is subject to the supervision and protections provided by the national regulatory authority. Note too that French regulated advisers also undergo continuous professional development to ensure they

are providing reliable and fully compliant advice. An adviser in France will know about the most tax efficient investments to hold, how investments are taxed in France and how best to plan for transferring wealth to your chosen beneficiaries. It is sensible to carefully consider the regulatory framework, qualifications, experience and expertise of the adviser, as well as the financial planning services on offer, before making a decision. Whenever you first contact a French regulated adviser, you should be provided with information on their regulatory

status, professional indemnity insurance and how they are remunerated. If you are worried about your French language capability, refer to a specialist expatriate adviser who speaks English and provides all documentation in English so that you can fully understand product details and regular valuations.

Amanda Johnson works as an International Financial Adviser with The Spectrum IFA Group. T: 05 49 98 97 46 or 06 73 27 25 43; amanda.johnson@spectrum-ifa.com; www.spectrum-ifa.com/amanda-johnson. To register for their newsletter, attend a roadshow event or speak directly to Amanda, call or email her. There is no charge for their financial planning reviews, reports or recommendations. « The Spectrum IFA Group » is a registered trademark, exclusive rights to use in France granted to TSG Insurance Services S.A.R.L. Siège Social: 34 Bd des Italiens, 75009 « Société de Courtage d’assurances » R.C.S. Paris B 447 609 108 (2003B04384) Numéro d’immatriculation 07 025 332 - www.orias.fr « Conseiller en investissements financiers, référence sous le numéro E002440 par ANACOFI-CIF, association agréée par l’Autorité des Marchés Financiers »

42 | LIVING WINE

W I N E La Maison d’Estournel

How to Develop your ‘Aroma Brain’ by Caro Feely

he ability to differentiate between aromas is an ancient human skill, much older than speech. Our sense of smell helps us connect to memories, emotions and more, and aromatherapists believe certain scents have healing properties. As the world wakes up and the first blossoms uncurl in early spring, it is a the perfect time to start to develop your olfactory senses. Wine tasting is about using all of your senses, but particularly your sense of smell. Taking time to smell things is in itself a good mindfulness practice, encouraging us to slow down and focus. But when you begin wine tasting, it is often difficult to identify what the different aromas are. This is where taking time to develop your ‘aroma brain’ pays dividends. Our brain wants to see what we are smelling and relies on our eyes to help us assess the aroma. The eyes see wine and the brain says: “I smell wine”. To develop your aroma brain, train yourself to recognise aromas without seeing what they are. Close your eyes and take a sniff when you are in the kitchen peeling a banana, cutting an

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apple, using the cinnamon, ginger, honey or butter. Be curious beyond the kitchen or the table. Stop to sniff with your eyes closed when you pass jasmine, dig your garden, sharpen a pencil. Train your brain to recognise aromas without needing to see them. After a few months of doing this take an aromatic wine and see what you find. You may find you appreciate everything a little more, being mindful with aromas offers innate joy, even if you may look a little strange to passersby as you stop to smell the flowers with your eyes closed. A student at our wine school that I taught this technique to joked “you have turned me into a dog!” after leaning in to sniff someone’s leather bag that was hanging on the chair beside her. In France we talk of three noses: the first before you swirl, the second after you swirl and the third on the empty glass. When the glass is empty, you can pick up some evolution of the wine’s aromas from the coating of liquid which remains on the glass. This can make be easier to pick up minor faults if there are any. When you take a sniff let the aromas

go right up to the back of your nose. Close your eyes, really focus your attention on the aromas and put all your brain power on what is being sensed by your nose. Close off the influence of people around you, any noises and be totally with the liquid in your glass. There is usually some ‘evolution’ between the first nose (before you have swirled) and the second nose (after you have swirled). Sometimes it is easier to identify a single aroma on the first nose and the second nose becomes complex, perhaps a little more confusing with some alcohol aromas. When we taste professionally, we note what we pick up on both and also look for whether the aroma is: • Weak, standard, or pronounced: if it leaps out of the glass at you before you even lean in to sniff, it is pronounced. • Fruity, floral, spicy, vegetal (vegetable or leaf aromas), nutty, mineral, animal and/or earthy? Try to break down the category to something more specific e.g. fresh raspberry. • Youthful (e.g. fresh fruit) or mature (e.g. cooked fruit)?

LIVING WINE | 43

Caro’s book series; ‘Grape Expectations’, ‘Saving our Skins’, ‘Vineyard Confessions’ and ‘Cultivating Change’ are great winelover gifts. Château Feely also offers ‘adopt a row’ vine shares, gift certificates for courses and tours and Feely organic wines (which can be purchased online or via email). Find out more about Château Feely at www.chateaufeely.com and follow Caro Feely on Instagram.

Château Haut-Bages Libéral

As you learn more about wine and practice with more wine-tasting you will find that the characteristics you pick up set off indicators that help you identify the wine. For instance, fresh fruit aromas tend to indicate a young wine whereas cooked fruit would be

an older wine. Grape varietal signature aromas will suggest the grape type. You can even form an idea of the winemaking process too. For example, barrel-ageing can offer woody, toasty, vanilla, or coconut aromas. Dairy aromas (e.g. cream, butter) can be a 1

sign that the wine has undergone the malolactic transformation. So take your time as you smell the roses this year and stop to enjoy some ‘wine aromatherapy’ as the seasons change. It will make your wine-tasting even more enjoyable!

8 8

Settle down to enjoy the challenge of our unique crossword clues set by Mike Morris. If you need a helping hand, take a peek at the answers on page 45. CLUES ACROSS 1. Copper placed at first in vessel. (3) 3. Very nice message, but no time for sending initially. (5) 6. Drop back to get some energy. (3) 8. Toughen any top players who do this on the pitch? (3, 2, 3, 5) 9. Speaks about conditions? (6) 13. Moles in the works? (6) 16. Cabinet role seen in personal assistant. (4, 9) 17. Download for group of students. (6) 20. Pour out into borders to evacuate whole continent. (6) 24. Want a split? Sod off! Drastic end to dispute? (7, 2, 4) 26. Third after new starts getting bronze. (3) 27. Heading off for sealer of deal is non-starter. (5) 28. Urge to get money in Japan. (3)

CLUES DOWN 1. Company president’s first to be in the force. (3) 2. Bread provided by mine volunteers. (5) 3. Transgression by church from that time. (5) 4. Sound coming back from city centre Home Office. (4) 5. Introduce the real action in legend. (5) 6. Old family member covering nothing in complaint. (5) 7. Animal home being rusty after game is off? (3) 10. One selling tickets includes Simply Red and Rainbow perhaps. (5) 11. Thread those on end of needle. (5) 12. Restrain article used to open correspondence? (5) 13. Prize money from innocent carrier of last of funds. (5) 14. Croat going for a Burton perhaps? (5) 15. Leaders of those having remained in place biting insect. (5) 18. Plant product in mire since making an enclosure. (5)

10 9

20 20

22 21

25 24

19. Island apparently charging a fee to pass by? (5) 21. Take top off, spread to make a statement. (5) 22. Nothing to change in egg producer. (5)

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23. Requests music style mixed with key to synthesiser? (4) 24. Function for time underground. (3) 25. Superior mother perhaps, whichever way you look at it? (3)

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44 | LIVING CUISINE There's nothing better than the aroma of a delicious meal wafting through the kitchen. Here Nikki picks some timeless British classics to warm your winter evenings ...

Nikki Legon's

cuisine Chicken Cobbler Delicious served with roasted vegetables SERVES 4-6

1 tbsp oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 leek, sliced and washed 2 garlic cloves, crushed 6 mushrooms, sliced 6 boneless chicken thighs, skins removed and chopped 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves 1 tbsp plain flour 300ml chicken stock 300g frozen peas 75ml cream FOR THE COBBLER 125g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 egg, beaten 75ml buttermilk METHOD Preheat the oven to 220°C. Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and leek and gently fry for 5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. Add the mushrooms, chicken and thyme, and brown the chicken all over. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute before adding the stock. Stir in the peas and cream and season well. Place into a large casserole dish. In a bowl, mix together the cobbler ingredients and season. Divide into balls and place around the edges of dish. Brush with a little milk. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked and the cobblers have risen and are golden brown.

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LIVING CUISINE | 45 small bunch coriander, stalks finely chopped and leaves roughly chopped (keep separately) 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp chipotle paste 1 heaped tsp vegan-friendly yeast extract 2 x 400g cans chopped tomato 400g can black beans

Lancashire Hotpot A hearty, slow-cooked classic, this is a meal in itself SERVES 4-6

2 tbsp oil 1kg neck fillet of lamb, trimmed and diced 1 tbsp plain flour 1l stock made from the trimmings 3 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced 4 carrots, peeled and sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 sticks of celery diced 4 sprigs of fresh thyme leaves or 1 tsp dried salt and black pepper 4 potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 25g unsalted butter, diced METHOD Heat a large casserole dish over a high heat, when it’s smoking add the oil and fry the lamb to seal all over. Add the flour and stir for 2 minutes Slowly add the stock, bring to the boil then simmer gently for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, add the remaining oil

to a pan and cook the onions gently for another 15 to 20 minutes until the onions are lightly coloured and slightly sticky. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Add the carrots, garlic and celery to the lamb, and cook for a further 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, then stir in the onions and thyme, season with salt and pepper. Arrange the potatoes over the top, pressing each layer lightly to submerge them in the juices, scatter the butter over the top, cover and bake in the oven for 40 minutes.

METHOD Heat the oven to 180°C. Toss the potatoes with half the oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes until tender, tossing after 15 minutes. Add the remaining oil to a pan and cook the onions until soft. Add the garlic, chilli and coriander stalks. Cook everything for a further 2 minutes. Sprinkle the spices over, stirring for 1 minute more. Stir in the chipotle paste, yeast extract, tomatoes and half a can of water. Simmer the sauce uncovered, adding a splash of water if it looks too dry. Add the sweet potato, black beans and seasoning to the chilli. Cook for 5 minutes, taste and adjust seasoning, sprinkle with coriander leaves and serve with boiled rice.

Sweet Potato and Black Bean Chilli Packed wtih flavour, this chilli will keep everyone happy! SERVES 2

1 tbsp oil 3 sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed 1 onion, chopped 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 red chilli, finely chopped

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46 | LIVING CUISINE

Irish Stew Just remove from the oven and enjoy with crusty bread SERVES 4-6

1kg diced stewing lamb 2 tbsp seasoned flour 1 tbsp oil (for frying) 3 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp plain flour 2 onions, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 medium leeks, washed and sliced 2 parsnips, peeled and chopped 3 large potatoes, diced 3 tbsp chopped parsley I bay leaf 1 tbsp pearl barley 750ml lamb stock salt and pepper METHOD Wipe the meat dry and remove excess fat. Dip in the seasoned flour. Heat some oil in a pan and brown the meat all over, set aside. In the same pan, melt 2 tbsp of butter and add the flour, whisking to combine. Continue whisking for a few minutes on the heat until golden brown. Add the broth, whisking continuously, and simmer until slightly thickened. Scrape into a dish. Melt the remaining butter

and add the vegetables except for the potatoes. Cook for 5 minutes, Add the lamb, potatoes, parsley, bay leaf, pearl barley and the stock, and season well with salt and pepper. Bring to simmering point, spooning off any scum. Transfer to an ovenproof dish with a tight fitting lid and place on the middle rack of the oven heated to 160°C and cook for 2½ hours until sizzling.

Pie & Mash MAKES 4 PIES

500g minced beef 1 onion, chopped finely 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp English mustard 2 tsp tomato purée 1½ tbsp plain flour 500ml beef stock 1 tsp white pepper 1 egg, lightly beaten for brushing over the pies SUET PASTRY FOR THE PIE BASE 350g plain flour 200g suet ½ tsp salt water (at least 400ml) SHORTCRUST PASTRY FOR THE PIE LID 150g plain flour 75g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes pinch of salt 3 tbsp water LIQUOR 500ml fish stock or chicken stock handful of fresh parsley, chopped 1 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp water METHOD For the filling, heat the oil in a large

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LIVING CUISINE | 47 pan over a medium heat and fry the onions, minced beef and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and tomato purée and cook for a further 3 minutes. Stir in the mustard and stock before covering with a lid and simmering for 20 minutes on a medium heat. Drain the excess juice and allow to cool. To make the suet pastry base for the pies, combine the flour, suet and water with a pinch of salt adding more water if needed to form a rollable dough. Roll out the pastry to a thickness of 2mm and place into 4 buttered pie dishes. For the shortcrust pastry top, gently rub together the flour, salt and butter in a bowl, using the tips of your fingers, until it looks like breadcrumbs. Add the water and kneed into a ball. Roll out on a floured-dusted counter and cut to fit the tops of the pies. Fill the pie dishes with the mince mixture and top with the shortcrust pastry, crimp the edges and cut off excess pastry. Brush with beaten egg. Preheat the oven to 180°C and place the pie dishes into a deep baking tray, carefully fill to half-way with boiling water. Place into the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the pastry tops are golden brown. For the liquor, place the stock in a blender and add the parsley, salt and pepper blend until smooth and mix in the cornflour. Serve the pies and mash with the liquor.

Lentil Stew This hearty stew is a real warmer for those cold evenings 2 tbsp olive oil 150g celery, chopped finely 450g potatoes, peeled and cubed 3 carrots, cubed 1 leek, cut into fine slices 1l vegetable stock 5 onions, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 250g dried brown, green or red lentils, rinsed and drained 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp red wine vinegar pinch of sugar 1 tbsp parsley, chopped

Golden Syrup Steamed Pudding 175g soft unsalted butter 175g self-raising flour 175g golden caster sugar 3 large eggs zest of 1 lemon and juice of half 3 tbsp milk TOPPING 250g golden syrup juice of the other half lemon METHOD Generously butter a 1.2-litre pudding basin or individual pudding basins. Put the kettle on. Lay out a large sheet of foil and top with a sheet of baking parchment, butter the paper. Then fold both layers to make a pleat in the centre. For the topping, mix the lemon juice and 250g golden syrup together and

spoon into the basin. Cream the butter and the sugar together in a mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, then sift in the flour and salt and mix again. Add the lemon juice and enough milk to give a soft dropping consistency. Scrape the sponge mix on top of the syrup topping. Cover with the baking paper and foil, buttered paper side down. Tie securely with string making a handle to easily remove the basin. Trim the paper and foil to prevent water getting into the pudding as it steams Place in a large, deep pan with about 5cm depth of boiling water, steam for 1½- 2 hours checking occasionally that the pan isn’t boiling dry. It is ready when a skewer pushed into the centre through the coverings comes out dry. Remove the coverings and put a large plate on top of the basin, turn out carefully and serve.

METHOD Heat the oil in a large saucepan, then add the celery, potatoes, carrots, leek, garlic and onions. Cook gently for 10-15 minutes until the vegetables have softened slightly. Add the stock, then stir in the lentils and bring to a boil. Reduce to a medium heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until the lentils are tender. Taste and season with the red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Sprinkle over the parsley to serve on a bed of mashed potato or, my favourite, with crusty bread.

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48 | LIVING CUISINE

Sticky Toffee Pudding Puddings dont get any better than this! 225g dates 175ml boiling water 1 tsp vanilla extract 175g self-raising flour 1 tsp bicarbonate de soda 2 eggs 65g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 140g demerara sugar 2 tbsp black treacle 100ml milk SAUCE 175g light muscovado sugar 50g butter diced 225ml thick cream 1 tbsp black treacle creamy. Add the beaten eggs a little at a time, beating well between additions. Beat in the black treacle and then, using a large metal spoon, gently fold in one third of the flour mix, then half of the milk. Do not over beat. Repeat until all the flour and milk are used. Stir the soaked dates into the pudding batter. The mix may look a little curdled at this point, and will be like a soft, thick batter. Spoon into the dish or moulds and bake for 20-25 minutes until risen and firm. For the sauce, put the light muscovado sugar and diced butter in a medium saucepan with half of the cream. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, stirring all the time, until the sugar has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 tbsp black treacle, turn up the heat slightly and let the mixture

METHOD Butter and flour a 23cm square baking dish or 6 individual moulds. Stone and chop the dates into small dice. Put them into a bowl and pour over the boiling water. Leave to cool for 30 minutes, then mash with a fork. Stir in the vanilla extract. Mix the self-raising flour with the bicarbonate of soda. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl. Beat the butter and demerara sugar together in a large bowl for a few minutes until slightly Nikki Legon is the chef and owner of the Hotel Restaurant Karina in Les Métairies, just outside Jarnac in Charente, which has been transformed from an old cognac distillery into a luxury 10-bedroom hotel and restaurant. For more information: www.hotelkarina.net

CROSSWORD ANSWERS

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bubble away for 2-3 minutes until it is a rich toffee colour, stirring occasionally to make sure it doesn’t burn. Take off the heat and beat in the rest of the cream. For the single pudding, remove the it from the oven and run a knife around the sides to loosen. Pour the sauce over and leave to soak in. For the smaller puddings, in an ovenproof baking dish pour half the sauce into the base and sit the upturned individual puddings on the sauce. Then pour the rest of the sauce over, cover the puddings with a loose tent of foil. When ready to serve, heat the oven to 160°C, warm the puddings, keeping the cover over for 15-20 minutes or until the sauce is bubbling. Serve on their own, or with cream or custard.

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LIVING CUISINE | 49

Character Properties in France

We specialise in the sale of châteaux and prestige country homes with stone character. You can entrust us with your valuation, the professional presentation of your home, targetted communications, qualification of buyers, proper feedback, and sale management.

Andrew Portsmouth Sue Lake Nathalie Hoefnagels 06 43 95 15 52 www.agence-hamilton.com

*agency fees charged to the seller

E XC

I LUS

Confolens, Charente €985,000* Fabulous 16th/18th century 4-bed fullyrenovated château plus 3-bed cottage, 200m2 barn, garages, stables, 4.3 hectares. DPE: E

L’Isle Jourdain, Vienne €120,000* 3-bed/2-bath town-centre renovated and insulated stone house, logburner, double-glazed, attached garden, mains. DPE: D

Availles-Limouzine, Vienne €79,000* Renovated 2-bed, close to centre, logburner, insulated, off-street parking for 3 cars + attached garden, mains drains. DPE: E

Néré, Charente Maritime €795,000* Charm and comfort, renovated 4-bed house, original features, five quality gites (3, 3, 2, 2, 1-bed), heated pool, 8 mins to town. DPE: D

www.selectionhabitat.com

Tel: 05 65 70 10 49 Email: info@selectionhabitat.com Visit our new agency: 20, rue du Maquis Foch, 16500 Confolens Please contact us if you have a character property to sell, we have a devoted team located throughout the area. Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr

WANTED! Properties around Sauzé Vaussais, Ruffec, Civray

English and French spoken Available 7 days, working with expat and French buyers Email: karin.malpass@optimhome.com Call, Whatsapp or SMS on: 06 88 29 37 27

PLEUVILLE, VIENNE – 259 000€

If you are looking to acquire a little bit of French history, this is definitely the house for you. Originally one wing and the barn of the neighbouring Logis built in 1640, this beautifully and carefully renovated 5-bedroom property of 305m2 will make an ideal family home or business B&B/gite. This remarkable house has views over the tranquil Vienne countryside and is set in a small hamlet close to a larger village. DPE: F

GENOUILLAC, CHARENTE - 155 849€

Rare property situated in a quiet village ideal for a family home, someone who owns horses or wants a small-holding. Currently divided into 2 houses (one renovated, one to finish), with 5 bedrooms and a total living space of 181m2, it could be easily made into one property. This house overlooks 4.03 hectares (11 acres) of exceptionally pretty fully enclosed pasture with several natural springs. DPE: E

Karin Malpass RSAC N°492 336 334 Niort

www.optimhome.com/conseillers/malpass

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L i ving

PROPERTY CHANIERS (17)

CHANGING PLACES A LEAFY RIVERSIDE SETTING tucked away in the heart of the Saintonge sounds like somewhere well worth a visit. Happily doing so won’t involve a major detour, for Chaniers and the commune’s companion villages lie on the RD24, which was bypassed years ago by the Saintes–Cognac section of the busy RN141, from which the Vallée de la Charente is clearly signed. As you’ll discover, the TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine Saintes–Angoulême rail line also passes through the valley (the nearby Gare SNCF de Beillant has some weekday services), so access to the old town is via a level crossing just behind the elegant Mairie. Once across you’ll discover that Chaniers has an air of prosperity, reflecting its desirable location within easy commuting distance of Saintes and Cognac. It’s also quite compact, and drops noticeably towards the river, so more recent expansion has largely focused on the higher ground on the northern side of the valley, away from any potential flood zones. Given that the river is navigable, it’s hardly surprising that such a promising halt attracted the attention of the Romans, the Saracens, the Normans and English, before being returned to France in 1375.

Even today ‘le bourg’ retains clear signs of the area’s long history. The 11th century Église Saint-Pierre, for example, was constructed on the site of a previous gallo-Roman temple, and was heavily fortified during the Wars of Religion. Elsewhere, both in le bourg and its surroundings, are numerous elegant 17th-19th century residences which testify to the prosperity generated by the cognac trade, while the geometrical street plan echoes those of the bastide villages established in Aquitaine under English rule. Meanwhile, in a beautiful setting down on the riverbank are two welcoming campsites, the larger of which (La Belle Rivière) offers serviced static accommodation whose themed structures include a carrelet sur pilotis. In summer months you’ll also find la Guinguette de Chaniers – a large brasserie-style restaurant popular with campers and those navigating the Charente in selfdrive river cruisers. Increasing numbers of summer visitors will be taking a pause from following the local section of the epic 350km Flow-Vélo cycle route to enjoy a free trip across the river aboard the historic Bac de Chaniers chain ferry (see the previous issue of LIVING).

We visit a remarkable village on the banks of the Charente While you’re here, just upstream lies the Moulin de la Baine, a huge sevenarched water mill reconstructed around 1670 by Louis XIV’s Commissaire Général Colbert du Terron to receive cereals transported up the Charente on flat-bottomed gabares (barges). They would then return laden with freshly milled flour to supply the naval dockyards at Rochefort.

MAKING CONNECTIONS DISTANCES/DRIVE-TIMES BY ROAD FROM 17610 CHANIERS Saintes: Cognac: Saint-Jean d’Angély: Royan: Angoulême: La Rochelle: Niort: Bordeaux:

7.7 km/11 min 21 km/21 min 28 km/28 min 43 km/39 min 67 km/58 min 82 km/59 min 85 km/59 min 119 km/1 hr 26 min

TGV & TER RAIL & BUS SERVICES: The Gare SNCF de Saintes is served by TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine Ligne Régionale 15, 16 & 17 services to Cognac, Angoulême, Poitiers, Niort, La Rochelle, Royan and Bordeaux, with onward connections (including TGV) to Limoges, Tours, Paris, Biarritz, etc. In addition, the nearby Gare SNCF de Beillant (3.3km) has twice-daily weekday services to and from Saintes.

La Foncière Charentaise THE FRIENDLY FACE OF PROPERTIES IN S/W FRANCE

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29 000€ HAI

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Prix 152,000 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.) Charming 4-bed stone house, 130m² living space. Office, potential indoor pool/jacuzzi, cellar, workshop, barn, garage, enclosed garden. Ref: 9758 Energie: D Climat: A

Prix 155,500 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.) Nea rAigre: Beautifully Renovated stone property ready to move into, 3 bedrooms+one on ground floor, south facing garden with open barn.

Ref. 34548

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BRILLAC (16): Semi detached house in hamlet to renovate. 3-bed + attic, barn, courtyard. Separate land and sheds on 422m2.

LESTERPS (16): 3-bed semi-detached house. Electrical heating, mains drains, 410m2 garden. Separate plot of 955m2.

Classe Energie n/a Classe Climate n/a

Ref: 9759 Energie: D Climat: B

83 600€ HAI

79 000€ + 10% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34560

LA PÉRUSE (16): Lots of potential for this 2-bed 1972 bungalow with basement. Oil heating, septic tank, garage, well with pump, set on 2055m2. Classe Energie G Classe Climate G

138 800€ HAI

(100 000€ + 10% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34524

CONFOLENS (16): 3-bed 1982 bungalow with basement & beautiful stone dovecote. Close to centre. Oil heating, garage. Set on 2098m2. Classe Energie E Classe Climate E

25 000€ HAI Ref. 34574

Prix 160,500 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.) Prix 160,500 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.) Cosy character house with 210m2 of livPerfect condition 3-bed detached house on the outskirts of AIGRE. Fitted ing space, 4 ensuite beds, double living room, lounge, large kitchen. Enclosed kitchen, lounge and large veranda, front and back with barn/garage. garage, enclosed garden of 1252m2. Ref: 9755 Energie: D Climat: C

Réf: 9750 Energie: D Climat: C

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237 600€ HAI

(23 000€ + €6000 fee payable by buyer)

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CONFOLENS (16): ideal for holiday home, 2-bed semi detached house. Mains drain, adjoining courtyard with small shed.

Ref. 34562

SAINT-MAURICE-DES-LIONS (16): 3-bed wellmaintained 2007 property. Veranda, basement, Elec heating, mains, 2 garages. 2052m2.

Classe Energie n/a Classe Climate n/a

Classe Energie D Classe Climate A

............ www.foncierecharentaise.com ............ email: aigre@foncierecharentaise.fr

3, place de la Liberté, 16500 Confolens Tel: 05 45 85 45 65 contact@sovimo.com

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AGENCE ELEONOR ESTATE

AGENCY

www.agence-eleonor.fr VILLEREAL - Ref : 10992-VI - Price: 434 600€ Beautiful house offering spacious and light living with 4 bedrooms and 1 bathroom. There is a swimming pool that has stunning views over the surrounding countryside, meadows and a lake. Taux d’honoraires 24 600€ (6%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: B Classe Climat: A

CALES - Ref : 10348-LA - Price: 997 975€ Magnificent stone property comprising 5 separate fully furnished houses, each with access to the outdoor space including 2 heated swimming pools and a spa. Taux d’honoraires 42 975€ (4.5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: D Classe Climat: A

FAUILLET - Ref : 11007-EY - Price: 783 750€ EXCLUSIVE: An exciting opportunity to buy this impressive Maison de Maitre. The house offers 7 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. Outside there is a pool, an enclosed garden, two stone barns, a storage barn, a workshop, and a hanger. Taux d’honoraires 33 750€ (4.5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: F Classe Climat: F

Contact our head office today : 36-38 rue du Temple, 24500 EYMET 05 53 27 83 45 info@agence-eleonor.com

Looking for a career in property sales? Want to be part of a team of motivated, independent property consultants? Good news, due to expansion Agence Eleonor are recruiting! You’ll be joining a great team, with free training and ongoing support through all stages of your development, as well as excellent commission rates. Contact Terrie Simpson at info@agence-eleonor.com to find out more or arrange an informal chat.

We are looking for properties to sell! Agence Eleonor is an independently owned business with an experienced team of property specialists, based in the South-west of France, with offices across the region. Our offices all have overseas and local buyers ready to buy. If you are considering selling your property please contact us for a free valuation at info@ agence-eleonor.com

Visit us in Eymet, Villeréal, Saint-Cyprien, Monpazier, Miramont-de-Guyenne, Lalinde, Bergerac and Issigeac.

52 | LIVING COMMUNITY

JOIN OUR

Club

Gillian Harvey talks to three Haute-Vienne residents who have taken the plunge... Ah Spring. With days getting longer, energy levels increasing, it’s a great time to try something new. Whether it’s taking up a new sport, starting a hobby, learning a skill or simply mixing with new people, what better way to embrace new season energy than joining a local club? Many French communes have a great selection of social and sporting clubs to choose from, and joining up may benefit you in more ways than one.

According to science, being part of a club is a great mood booster – and has been shown to reduce depression and anxiety. Participating in a shared activity can also help self-confidence, reduce loneliness and even improve your concentration. For anglophones, joining a local club or association is also a fabulous way to finesse that French, as well as make inroads into the local community.

Benefits of joining in

If you’re interested in finding out the range of clubs and associations in your area, a great place to start is your local Mairie – which should be able to provide information and contact details for local associations. You may also find

As well as helping you to develop new skills, get fit and make new friends, joining a local group or club could have a positive impact on both your mental and physical wellbeing.

Finding out

Cordial Choristers

Having moved to Eymoutiers in 2018, Deborah Sheath wanted to get involved in the local community and make new connections. Having sung in several choirs in the past, she was delighted to find a local singing group. “Someone I’d met told me of a small group of people singing together in a local town,” she says. “The group of - mainly British – singers used to get together once a week, and join with others to perform at Christmas. Then in 2022 the lady who led the group was asked to become a chef de chœur of a wellestablished French choir ‘Chorale de Sainte-Claire’ in Châteauneufla-Fôret. She accepted and we all went with her!” The choir rehearses once a week and performs a few times a year. And joining has had a number of benefits. “Obviously, I get a buzz out of singing, so that’s a given! But as well as that, I feel part of a community. My fellow French choristers have been incredibly welcoming, and not only have my French linguistic skills improved, but also my understanding of rural French culture. I have made both French and English friends, brought together by our shared love of singing, and this helped me at a time that could have been quite lonely,” says Deborah.

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club details on local notice boards, or on your commune’s Facebook page.

Trying out

If you’re torn between two clubs, or aren’t sure whether a particular activity will suit you, it’s worth making contact with an association to find out whether you can pop along informally for a trial session or two. While some associations will have joining criteria and you may need to pay a fee, most clubs are happy to allow prospective members to pop along and get a feel for a club before joining in. With so much to gain and so much fun to be had, it’s well worth finding out what’s happening locally to you.

Make a Racket

On moving to Châteauneuf-la-Fôret in 2013, Linda and husband Paul, an osteopath, knew they wanted to make local connections and decided to see what sporting clubs were active in the area. “I asked for a list of clubs at the Mairie, and ended up joining both the tennis club and badminton club,” she says. “I’ve always liked playing and keeping fit – as a practitioner of Chinese medicine I take all aspects of health very seriously,” she says. “It’s also been a great opportunity to integrate with both French locals and anglophones. At the tennis club, we have around 180 members, and membership includes a weekly session by an excellent coach, as well as access to the courts whenever we wish to play. As for badminton, you can play three evenings a week and it’s a great opportunity to meet people and get out in those dark winter months. Being in the clubs has helped both myself and my husband stay fit, as well as meet likeminded people.”

LIVING COMMUNITY | 53

The Bellac Belles When a group of women in Bellac decided they’d like to play netball, there was no local club to cater for them. However, they didn’t let that stop them. Claudia Ryan-Jones – who is well used to negotiating French admin in her role in a hand-holding service – along with friends Sue Jones and Vikki Nash applied to the Sous-Préfecture and set up their own association. “We discovered we needed to get the Maire on board and find a venue to train,” says Claudia. “So we set up a meeting to explain the game, as it’s not a well-known sport in France. He gave us the green light.” After next organising a venue with the director of sports for the local area, the women took on the roles of President and Treasurers, required roles for

an association. “There was no cost involved – we had to provide signed statutes from the club setting out our aims, then go through a Process verbal, which was our first meeting as a club to set up the association, signed by all members. Insurance was taken out with the bank, and costs around €110 per year for the club.” The team have also been sponsored by a local Estate Agent, Chris Summers at Beaux Villages, and raised funds to buy equipment. As well as the pleasure of playing a much loved sport, Claudia has discovered many benefits to being in the ‘Bellac Belles Netball Club’. “We meet once a week on a Monday evening and there’s a great community mix of ages, abilities and both men and women,” says Claudia. “We are proud of the club we’ve created – people travel from up to an hour away to train once a week. The club is going from strength to strength.” Find out more on FB: Bellac Belles Netball Club or email: bellacbelles@gmail.com

Gillian Harvey is a freelance writer and author living in the Limousin. Her latest novel ‘The Bordeaux Book Club’ has just been released with Boldwood Books.

British citizens who have been living abroad for more than 15 years can now vote in UK Parliament general elections and by-elections. If you have lived abroad for less than 15 years, you can still vote in these elections as before. You will have to confirm your details again every three years, and re-apply for your postal or proxy vote at the same time. These changes do not apply to local, Scottish Parliament, Senedd or Northern Ireland Assembly elections.

To find out more, including how to register to vote, visit electoralcommission.org.uk/overseasvoters or scan the QR code.

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Contact Isabelle directly Mobile: 06 17 30 39 11

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Fluent French speaker, professionally qualified with over 20 years ‘hands on’ experience assisting expats in France

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Established since 2004 Depts 16, 17, 79, 86 Expert in French Administration Carte de Séjour CPAM & ANTS Personal Taxation Legal matters Phone calls & meetings Andrew Harrison

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For information and quotes contact Penny pennym.gsar@orange.fr G.S.A.R. 05 53 40 15 71

King’s Community Church Poitou-Charentes A Fellowship of faithful Worldwide Anglicans committed to Gospel Mission. We are passionate about planting, strengthening and partnering for the Salvation of many and the Glory of God. SERVICES 1st Sunday in the barn at 16 rue des Bons Enfant, 86510 Chaunay at 11am 3rd Sunday in Champagne Mouton Parish room at 10:30am You will be warmly welcomed kingschurchcharente.com

English Speaking Chaplaincy of Christ the Good Shepherd, Poitou-Charentes A warm welcome awaits you at Sunday services in our centres in: Courcelles (17400) Cognac (16100) Champagne-Mouton (16076) Chef Boutonne (79110) and online All details can be found on churchinfrance.com

If you, or someone you know, has a drinking problem, join one of the English-speaking AA meetings across the south west of France. Alcoholics Anonymous is a Fellowship of men and women who share their experience, strength and hope with each other so that they may solve their common problem and help others recover from alcoholism. Our primary purpose is to stay sober and help others achieve sobriety. For help or information, telephone: 05 31 60 90 95 or visit: www.aafrance.net All enquiries are treated in the strictest conﬁdence.

Frapa

IT Service & Support

Did you know? There are Englishspeaking lodges in France. Our lodge in Saintes (17) meets 6 times a year. If you would like to find out more, email: david.brieger@neuf.fr Freemasonry in France

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CARPETS AND COFFEE! There’s really only one way to choose a carpet - that’s to see it and touch it! - the way it feels plays a very important part when you’re selecting what suits you. While we still make free home visits (over 200 during 2022) with plenty of samples, you can come to our showroom and see the thousands of options we offer, whether you’re looking for carpets, vinyl, LVT ...... or anything flooring! As we go into Spring, why not come and see us at our showroom in Treignac (19260) there’s a couple of decent restaurants nearby or at the very least come in and have a coffee with us! Obviously things have changed over the past few years and since Brexit we source a large part of our ranges directly from European manufacturers, which negates

any import or customs duties. In fact many Belgian companies, for example, send half their manufacturing output to the UK so they are the type and style we are used to seeing. This doesn’t mean we don’t still import from the UK - some of the best carpets in the world are manufactured in Britain, especially good quality wool materials - and we still have direct accounts with many of the more important UK suppliers. So, we can offer the best that both the UK and European manufacturers offer with a huge range of samples here for you to see and feel! As we are a small family business, please let us know if you are making a special journey to see us - we’d hate to miss you!

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POOLS BY JONATHAN Agent and installer for several rectangular & shaped pools including Seablue & Astral Pools FRIENDLY PROFESSIONAL SERVICE Competitive prices, try me for a quote Terracing and landscaping service also available ALL WORK GUARANTEED www.poolsbyjonathan.com phone 0549840362 mobile 0622361056

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BECK CHERRY PICKER HIRE Nacelle Telescopique

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Ian Dickinson

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BSc (Hons)

in any condition dans n’importe quel état

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ID Planning & Design

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Louis Pacault:

Ordre des Architectes : N°072543 SIRET : 513 320 770 00059

A : 5 rue du four des pierres 16700 Ruffec

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FOSSE AND GROUNDWORKS (79) SPECIALISTS IN FOSSE INSTALLATION

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Cleaning

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Architect & Interior Designer

Looking for old DEUTZ tractors

Enershop – renewable energy heating systems for your property Enershop have been installing renewable energy systems in France since 2008. Each system designed and installed is specifically for your needs, whether your property is a new

build, extension or a renovation, whether it is a cottage, chalet or château - the flexibility of our systems means there is a solution for all. We offer a free devis, with no obligation and no hard sell. Now is the time to consider a renewable heating system. There are reduced rates of TVA available and significant incentives for systems installed by Enershop as we

Building services, Artisans

Tel: 07 67 04 07 53

Email: info@enershop.eu

hold the QualiSol and QualiBois accreditation. Our website www.enershop.eu has lots of information on our services which include : • Solar thermal domestic hot water • Wood gasification boilers • Wood / Pellet boiler stoves • Pellet boilers • Accumulation tanks • Air source heat pumps

• Central and underfloor heating systems • Swimming pool / hot tub heating

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For Building FOR POOLS AND PROPERTY RENOVATION

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rjcpoolservices.com enquiries@rjcpoolservices.com

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t: +33 (0) 549 290135 t: +33 (0) 785 372144 Full Décennale Insurance siret: 897 609 293

Plumbing - Heating Chimney sweeping Full service with certificate (boiler, fuel, wood, gaz) Installation of Wood Burners Registered RGE QUALIBOIS Fully insured with over 15 years’ experience ambroise1204@hotmail.fr Tel: 06 58 86 55 91

Enershop

Jb Plumbing & Renovations

Kitchen & Bathroom Installations Plumbing repairs, Tiling Plaster boarding, Flooring, Decorating, Interiors, Electrical Tel: 06 29 90 24 89 E: mrbirky2@yahoo.com

English spoken

Based in dept 79 near Sauzé-Vaussais Fully insured

Siret: 900 570 490 00012

Siret: 804 390 862 000 14

30km around 86400 (Saint Macoux)

WINDOWS ~ DOORS ~ GLASS STRUCTURES SHUTTERS ~ FLY SCREENS ~ BI-FOLDS Over 20 years’ trade experience in both the UK & France with a dedicated British team, here to help your dream project become a reality

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Aluminium, Wood and uPVC options available in all colours, manufactured in Europe. We feature brands such as KOMMERLING, CORTIZO & VEKA

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Affordable UK Designs

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FREE PLAN, DESIGN & COSTING THROUGHOUT SOUTH WEST FRANCE - OTHER AREAS BY ARRANGEMENT www.affordableukdesigns.com UPVC Windows, Doors & Conservatories in all colours & styles. Aluminium and UPVC Bifold doors Made to ‘A’ Grades spec in French styles! Phone: 05 49 42 99 41 Mobile: 06 63 71 09 81 E: scott.braddock1@yahoo.com SIRET: 513 577 809 00017

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06 08 92 28 58 05 46 24 65 20 (land line) E: richardgrzywacz@ gmail.com

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Forgeix, 87200 Saint Junien

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frasereade87@gmail.com www.latelierdefer.com Siret: 512 945 874 00018

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Kitchens & Bathrooms from A-Z All leading Brands All associated minor works, modifications and repairs also undertaken e.g.. replace Kitchen worktops, taps, toilets etc. Dept. 16, 17

Barry Baldwin Cabinet Maker & Joiner Furniture Restoration Manufacture of staircases, doors & cupboards 16240 La Fôret de Tesse T: 05 45 30 39 85 becb709@gmail.com Covering depts 16, 79 & 86

05 46 49 78 30 / 06 70 40 66 01

website: andyms.free.fr email: andyms@free.fr

Interior & Exterior Painting & Decorating services Flooring Plasterboarding Providing a quality service since 2005

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Kevin Smith

ADAM BLACKABY Artisan Peintre T: 05 45 98 07 25 M: 06 23 18 30 95

16100 Chateaubernard 05 45 36 46 70 / 06 72 21 80 27 lifeboatmoose@wanadoo.fr www.mmpropertymaintenance.fr

adamblackaby@aol.com

JAMES RICHARDSON

SEAN THEOBALD EI

Imajica Joinery ESTABLISHED COMPANY, CONSCIENTIOUS & RELIABLE SERVICE For a superior finish in wood, tile, plasterboard and general restoration Specialising in kitchen fitting & creative challenges

Areas 16, 17, 24, 33, 79, 86 Siret: 441 490 992 00027

Carpenter All elements of 1st and 2nd fix carpentry undertaken Over 35 years experience specialising in, but not limited to High-End Residential and Heritage Projects T: 07 80 53 54 11 E: seantheobald@outlook.com Based in 17240

05 49 87 09 63

siret:50263448800014

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Siret: 848 507 042 00010

Building services, Artisans

HAVE YOUR SHUTTERS SEEN BETTER DAYS?

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L’Atelier de Fer

Building services, Artisans

Jeff’s Metalwork E I

www.jeffsmetalwork.com

Entreprise Quick SARL Zinc work ~ Guttering ~ Chimneys Repairs ~ Insurance Quotes

BLISHE TA

The Roofing Company

07 SINCE 20 N

Registered artisan with Décennale & Civile Responsabilité Insurance Covering depts 79, 86 & 16

FRANCE

www.building-services-france.com E: andrewquick@orange.fr ~ T: 05 49 27 22 67 Siret: 979 679 248 00018

AABA ROOFING FRANCE Ecuras 16220

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for you

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aabaroofingfrance@gmail.com 05 45 63 52 88 / 07 80 08 85 76

Siret 53210969100024

www.aabaroofingfrance.com These local businesses are waiting for your call!

Established reputable builder in Charente From basic changes to complete renovations, bathrooms, kitchens, floor and wall tiling, dry-lining & more Guaranteed customer satisfaction Contact me for a free no-obligation quotation Based near La Rochefoucauld, covering areas 16, 86 & 79 T: 05 45 95 44 34 or 06 98 29 76 45 E: graham.medhurst@orange.fr

A1SL COUVERTURE

(ROOFING SERVICES)

Shaun B LLOYD

A1SL COUVERTURE is a new French based company serving dept. 79, 86, 16, 17, 87, 85, 24 & 33 with well-established roofing experience previously based in the UK. We pride ourselves on top quality workmanship and excellent customer service. We have built a solid reputation over 25 years in the UK and receive most of our work from customer recommendations. WE COVER ALL ASPECTS OF ROOFING WORK FROM SMALL DOMESTIC REPAIRS, ROOF CLEANING AND LARGE NEW ROOF PROJECTS UTILIZING CLAY TILES AND SLATE; SPECIALIST IN LEAD WORK. Registered with the Repertoire des Métiers, siren: 877 636 050

Mobile: + 33.(0).6.95.49.60.89 Email: contacta1slroofing@gmail.com www.a1slroofing.com All work is fully guaranteed and we are fully insured. Our services are available 6 days a week, no-obligation free estimate and no call-out fee up to 70km.

Experienced, French Registered Electrician Available for all types of electrical work renovations, small works, gate automations etc. Insured and guaranteed Areas 16, 17, 24

05 46 86 07 61

trevor.miell@btopenworld.com Siret 49376573200015

ktaylor.renovations@gmail.com Javarzay, 79110 Chef-Boutonne Siren: 478 608 185 00011

ANDY MS Multi Services

Plumbing Electricity Plasterboarding Tiling Satellite dishes and Systems for the reception of UK and French TV Dept. 16,17 No Job too Small

05 46 49 78 30 / 06 70 40 66 01

website: andyms.free.fr email: andyms@free.fr siret:50263448800014

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Building services, Artisans

ELECTRICIAN

Tel 05 17 30 18 35 Mobile 06 33 85 65 66

Building services, Artisans

Graham Medhurst Renovations

66 | LIVING LANGUAGE

Pardon?

don’t know about you, but 2023 seemed to be the year when AI became a part of our language. Many of us will have found ourselves using words in one language or another that simply weren’t part of our vocabulary this time last year. Algorithms, artificial intelligence, chatbots, machine learning, neural networks and cognitive computing are not words that this writer ever thought she’d find herself needing in her lifetime, that’s for sure! If you’re a newbie, un petit nouveau or une petite nouvelle, then these may be breaking new ground for you. Maybe, though, they’re old hat. The longer we’re embedded in a culture, the more we can find ourselves using one version rather than the other, leaving us further and further adrift from our mother tongue as our new vocabulary strengthens, deepens and advances where our maternal language stagnates. I confess there are times when I don’t know the English for new stuff anymore, where the French version has been assimilated without much thought. Then I find myself trying to reverse engineer the French and anglicise it, hoping it’s the same. Harder still is the fact that some terms are very different in French and English. Even basic things like un ordi or un ordinateur for a computer are not something we can just anglicise as ‘un computeur’ and get away with if we forget the words. Although we find brands such as PCs or Macbooks retain their names, French isn’t simply anglicising the technological words we’re so familiar with. Sure, we may find l’appli from l’application to be fairly sensible given Anglophones call it an app, and instagrammable works on both sides of the Channel, but le moissonnage de données might not be quite as easy to

ChatGPT’s interpretation of a chatbot

translate (it’s data harvesting in case you were wondering). Many terms are those we can just work out. Un algorithme is not that different from ‘an algorithm’. L’apprentissage automatique is not too far from ‘automatic learning’ and that’s a short step to ‘machine learning’. Sometimes, of course, French speakers might say l’apprentissage machine. ‘Generative AI’ simply becomes IA générative. Like many acronyms or initialisms which involve adjectives and nouns in English, these can be reversed in French, so MRI for ‘magnetic resonance imaging’ becomes IRM, imagerie par résonance magnétique. NATO - the ‘North Atlantic Treaty Organisation’ - becomes OTAN in French, (Organisation du traité de l’Atlantique Nord) in the same way that Artificial Intelligence becomes l’Intelligence artificielle. With a bit of chopping and changing, we can probably work out what the French or English might be for any of these new terms that have become part of our daily conversations. Even so, there are plenty of words that don’t have the same form in French as they do in English. Numérique for ‘digital’ is one good example.

A brave new world with language expert Emma-Jane Lee Chatbots get a little more complicated, not least because le chat in French is clearly a furry feline rather than a friendly conversation. ChatGPT was never going to cope well in French where it so closely resembles chat, j’ai pété or ‘Cat, I farted’ when you pronounce it French style. As with all new words that enter the French vocabulary, there are always proper French versions, even if they aren’t the words commonly in use, so you may hear Chatbots referred to as agents conversationnels or even un dialogueur. Living in the age of automated houses may feel like something out of a Ray Bradbury novel or an episode of The Jetsons, we may find ourselves talking about l’automatisation des équipements or la domotique. This is definitely not something most of us will have learned in school! La maison connectée or ‘smart home’ was definitely not in my Longman French textbook back in the 80s! You can of course opt for la maison intelligente if you like. Une maison domotisée doesn’t just protect your home, keeping the inside and outside under surveillance, but also manages heating and helps save you time as well, apparently. This is especially true if it takes you a very long time to go around and shut your shutters or switch your lights on and off. I don’t know about you, but shutting shutters is a seminal part of the French experience for me, so I won’t be opting for having a robot house via un assistant vocal do it all for me. Le pilotage à distance or remote management system is not just for les drones but for your radiators as well. A brave new world, indeed! Emma is a jack-of-all-language-trades, writing English textbooks, translating, marking exam scripts and teaching languages. See english-tuition.weebly.com

Is it time that you improved your French? Frantastique is a unique, proven way to learn French at home...and it’s fun too! Sign up for your FREE 30-day trial on our website:

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EXCLUSIVE HAUTE-VIENNE €119,900 HAI REF: BVI71933 Charming 3-bed renovated stone house close to amenities

VIENNE €214,920 HAI REF: BVI68064 A tastefully renovated 5-bed farmhouse with pool and outbuildings

Energy class: D Climate class: D Fees: 9% paid by the buyer Net price: €110,000

Energy class: F Climate class: C Fees: 8% paid by the buyer Net price: €199,000

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EXCLUSIVE VIENNE €178,200 HAI REF: BVI72850 Large 4-bed maison de maître with large garden in a village location

CHARENTE-MARITIME €462,000 HAI REF: BVI72418 Spacious, 5-bed, 2-bath townhouse - 30 mins from Bordeaux

HAUTE-VIENNE €1,500,000 HAI REF: BVI72855 6-bed, 6-bath renovated farmhouse with pool and 1.2 hectares

Energy class: E Climate class: F Fees: 8% paid by the buyer Net price: €165,000

Energy class: C Climate class: D Fees: 5% paid by the buyer Net price: €440,000

Energy class: B Climate class: C Fees: 5.5% paid by the buyer Net price: €1,421,801

EXCLUSIVE

DORDOGNE €349,800 HAI REF: BVI72863 3-bed, 2-bath hamlet property with pool near to Bergerac

CHARENTE €397,500 HAI REF: BVI72475 A stunning 5-bed barn conversion within walking distance of amenities

CHARENTE €549,000 REF: BVI73041 A beautifully presented 6-bed property close to Cognac

Energy class: E Climate class: D Fees: 6% paid by the buyer Net price: €330,000

Energy class: C Climate class: C Fees: 6% paid by the buyer Net price: €375,000

Energy class: B Climate class: A Fees: paid by the vendor

Join our team! We’re recruiting independent property consultants across all areas of South West France. Want to know more? Contact Tina our Head of Recruitment at tina.anderson@beauxvillages.com Information on natural risk, such as flooding, can be obtained on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr Siret : 501 191 720 00199 APE 6831Z Carte prof : CPI 3301 2018 000 027 010 TVA FR94501191720 Garantie financière : QBE assurance pour 110 000 euros