Living Magazine Oct/Nov 2022

Autumn explore the region this

Queen Elizabeth II

1926 - 2022

to our October/November issue

As we were preparing to go to press, we all learnt that the Queen had died. We knew that the time would not be far off given her age and frailty but, like many, we also kept hoping this day would not come quite yet. Monarchy is a topic i have given much thought to over recent years since Brexit forced my hand to consider applying for French citizenship. the contradiction of being a subject of the Queen and asking a republic to grant me nationality did not pass me by. Like others, i am sure, i have complex emotions about what being British means now and why i felt compelled to seek the security of becoming a citizen of France. the Queen has been an important constant throughout my life – she was the glue that helped to hold our nation together through so many challenges. So, while i am very proud to now be a citizen of the republic, i mourn the Queen’s passing and thank her for her long service to the country of my birth.

one thing is certain, though, and that is that life moves ever forward. Here at Living Magazine our gaze has turned to autumn and once more being able to travel. We look at the story behind the enormous artworks which you may well see as you travel to visit the Vauban fortifications we feature. You will no doubt be helped on your way by the innovations of the pioneering Michelin brothers whose history we reveal. We’ve got delicious recipes, gardening advice, language tips, insights into wine production, local news and much more too. there really is something for everyone within our pages.

it will come as no surprise that Living Magazine is heading into winter with ever-rising costs. We’ve made it through the uncertainty of Brexit, the pandemic and now face the energy crisis. Paper prices have skyrocketed, and delivery costs are challenging, so please subscribe to Living Magazine if you can and, importantly, let our advertisers know that you found them here. doing so will help ensure that the magazine can continue to bring you the best of the region all year round and, if you subscribe, you will never miss an issue as you will receive your own copy to your door, whatever surprises lie ahead.

Photo: © Agencja Fotograficzna Caro / Alamy Stock Photo

EDITOR: Kathryn Dobson

SALES: Jon Dobson

LAYOUT & GRAPHICS: DM Design

REGULAR COnTRIBUTORS:

Caro Feely, Susan Hays, Jessica Knipe, Emma-Jane Lee, Nikki Legon, Mike Morris, Roger Moss and Stig Tomas.

THAnKS TO: John and Gill Bowler

PHOTOGRAPHY: Roger Moss or Shutterstock unless indicated.

COvER IMAGE:

Great Spotted Woodpecker © WildMedia

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ISSUE: 86 ISSn: 2270-2709

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Articles and adverts in this issue do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher. Les articles et publicités de ce numéro ne reflètent pas nécessairement les opinions de l’éditeur.

16

6 Snippets

Local news from around the region

16

The Great Defender Roger Moss celebrates a remarkable figure whose works helped shape the destiny of France

22

A Breath of Fresh Aire Love it or hate it, have you wondered why France is so fond of motorway art? Jessica Knipe explains all

28

Times of the Signs

We reveal the extraordinary story of how two brothers from the Auvergne became pioneers of tourism in France

36

Practical Advice

Your questions answered

38

Time Marches On...

Susan Hays finds her feelings mellowing about autumn’s arrival

Emma-Jane Lee’s foray into French

55-65 OUR BUsiness DiRectORy

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News rou N d up

Travel Concerns

PoPPy APPEAL

The Bordeaux and SW France branch of the Royal British Legion covers the whole of NouvelleAquitaine - a huge area which makes meeting up challenging. However, chairman Duncan Andrews encourages anyone who needs their help or who wants to ask a question to contact them directly. Each Remembrance Sunday (this year it is being held on Sunday 13 November) the branch holds a ceremony at the CWGC Cemetery in Talence, Bordeaux to which everyone is invited. They also try to attend as many local ceremonies as possible throughout the year. They are also looking into setting up local branches. If you would like to find out more, or where to donate to the poppy appeal or purchase wreaths, contact the branch by email at rblbx.assistance@gmail.com.

Lord Ricketts, the British Ambassador to France between 2012-16, has raised concerns over travel between the UK and the EU next year. With the implementation of both the EES entry and exit system and the ETIAS tourist visa process, times to check passports at the border will likely increase. The upgrade to the EES process in particular may add time at ferry ports and the Channel Tunnel as current EU plans require all occupants of cars to leave the car to scan their passports. This year has already seen problems both in Dover and latterly in Calais so political goodwill is necessary on both sides to overcome these hurdles. Clearly, Brexit has damaged the relationship between the UK and France, and this was not helped by remarks by Liz Truss about President Macron as she vied to become the new Prime Minister. Let’s hope the spirit of the entente cordiale prevails and solutions are found.

DIARY DATEs!

This year’s science festival, Fête de la Science, will take place from 7-17 October, and will be focused on climate change. Hundreds of events are planned to mark the anniversary in schools, universities, libraries and museums, with many designed for the whole family. Full details of all events can be found on the website at fetedelascience.fr.

La Semaine du Goût or the ‘week of taste’ runs from 10-16 October and celebrates all things gastronomic. Organisations across the region will be offering a mixture of ticketed and free events, and schools will place a special focus on good food and healthy eating. This year’s theme is ‘Vivre le Goût’ and events will guide us to try new experiences and tastes. Find the full programme on legout.com.

Another themed weekend in October draws attention to architecture. Les Journées Nationales de l’Architecture take place from 14-16 October with the theme ‘Architectures à habiter’ when we are encouraged to ‘Look Up’ and admire the architecture around us. For details, see journeesarchitecture.culture.gouv.fr.

Television Licence Refunds

Measures to support the purchasing power of households were announced over the summer which included increased benefits, petrol and diesel reductions and measures to make the termination of contracts and subscriptions easier. Television licences were also cancelled from September and the details for reimbursing those who have already partly paid for their licences through their monthly tax direct debits have been confirmed. Households who paid their TV licence monthly will be reimbursed automatically. Those who no longer pay taxe d’habitation will see a full refund which will be labelled “DGFIP FINANCES PUBLIQUES” with a note “REMB. EXCD. IMPOT”. Those who do pay taxe d’habitation will have future debits reduced to cover the amount already paid.

Tourism rETurNs

With tourism the leading employer in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, all eyes were focused on the figures at the end of the summer season after the last two summers were blighted by the pandemic. Given the global context, the news was good with the summer season results being seen as positive. According to a report published by the CRT, the regional tourism committee, 9 out of 10 professionals were happy with the season, particularly in August. While not necessarily back to 2019 figures, the majority of accommodation providers saw an increase over last year. British arrivals more than doubled over last year (when travel was very difficult due to the pandemic). They were the largest contingent of foreign clientele in hotels and the second largest in campsites. The Logis Hotel group saw three times the volume of Britons although Normandy, Brittany and Hauts-de-France showed stronger growth being closer to the UK. Flight bookings for October and November are also looking strong.

Rising Energy Costs

We are all feeling the impact of increasing costs as we head towards winter, but the French government has been relatively quick to react to try to protect citizens. This year, the cap set in autumn 2021 has kept the cost increase to just 4%, far below neighbours like the UK, but at a cost of nearly 2.2% of France’s GDP. The real increase in wholesale electricity prices is estimated at between 50-70%. Once the current price cap expires, Elisabeth Borne, Prime Minister, has announced that both gas and electricity prices can rise by a maximum of 15%. Gas prices can rise from January while electricity can rise from February for households and small businesses. There will also be a grant of between €100€200 paid to low income households towards the end of the year. There may still be energy shortages if winter is harsh so, to prevent this, everyone is being asked to reduce their energy usage by 10%. Meanwhile, the reopening of nuclear reactors closed for maintenance is being prioritised.

DATeS TO reMeMber

Schools across France break up on Friday 21 October and return on Monday 7 November. Tuesday 1 November is a bank holiday (la Toussaint). Armistice Day is on Friday 11 November and is also a jour férié.

Mobile Numbers

Mobile numbers beginning with 06 and 07 will be reserved exclusively for ‘interpersonal’ communication, between individuals, the telecommunications regulator Arcep has announced. This step has been taken to reinforce the protection of users against fraud and abuse as well as nuisance commercial calls. Non-interpersonal uses, for instance, commericial calls and technical platforms will need to move to other numbers and so a new category of 09 numbers has been added. This new regulation will come into force from 1 January 2023.

that will affect you wherever you live in south west France…

les chare N tes

MElon MisnoMEr

There is a challenge simmering over the name of our favourite local melon, the Charentais. The name suggests that they are of the region but they are, in fact, grown elsewhere too, for instance across central France as well as in Spain and Morocco. It was Charles VIII who brought the fruit to Italy in the 15th century from where it spread across southern Europe. According to Bordeaux’s Melon Association (AIM), the Charentais name was coined in the era of Louis XIV when it was decreed that Charente would become a land of melon cultivation. Since the ‘commercial type’ is now fixed as Charentais this has to be printed on all labels, no matter where the melon is grown, leading to consumer confusion when faced with a melon from Spain being labelled Charentais. The matter is headed to the United Nations where the Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) are examining the matter and the need for a name change. It is not expected that this will be resolved quickly - it’s already taken 4 years for the French delegation to present the problem to the UNECE Working Party on Agricultural Quality Standards. If the bid is successful, the next question will be what the new name for the local variety of cantaloupe melon should be.

Dinosaur Remains

The thirteenth palaeontological dig at Angeac-Charente (16) this summer uncovered more dinosaur bones as well as those of crocodiles and turtles, all of them over 130 million years old. Since 2008 when the first bones were found, approximately 800 square metres have been excavated and the site is set to expand next year. In the three-week dig this summer, among the finds were more sauropod footprints - these herbivorous dinosaurs had very long necks and tails, small heads and four pillar-like legs. In 2010, a 2m-long femur weighing 400kg from a 30m-long sauropod was found at the site which still has many more secrets to reveal.

Rental Crisis

Join in the Festival des Aventuriers at TonnayCharente (17) over the weekend of 8-9 October Watch independent adventure films in 6 different ‘modules’, featuring solo travellers to families. Afterwards, meet the filmmakers and join in the communal meals. Entry from 3€, meals extra, reservations required.

DIARY DATEs!

The popular Fossil and Mineral Fair at Chaniers (17) is back this year after an absence of 3 years. Entry is free from 9.30am to 6.30pm over the weekend of 8-9 October

The LEC Festival (Littératures Européennes Cognac) will be held from 17-20 November in Cognac (16). This year the focus will be on authors from Portugal. Check the website for the full programme.

Les Gastronomades, the local food festival, returns to Angoulême (16) over the weekend of 25-27 November. Workshops, demonstrations, tastings and more are on the agenda.

Like other popular tourist destinations, La Rochelle has a dearth of long-term rental properties for residents. With tourist accommodation earning as much in a week as it would in a month of long-term rental, it is easy to see why landlords prefer the summer season over all-year-round rentals. More than 60 per cent of rental properties are now only available for short-term lets and, with many immobiliers having few or even no rental properties to offer, prospective rental applications are piling up. The city council is looking at new regulations to resolve this imbalance. Other cities in a similar position have already taken action. In Biarritz, owners of vacation rentals are obliged to offer another property for long-term rental and this is one of the options being explored by La Rochelle.

Salt Bonanza

The hot summer was a double-edged sword for many of us as we tried to keep cool on the hottest of days but, as with so many extreme events, while some industries struggled to manage the heat, others benefitted. Speciality salt producers on the Île de Ré have declared this year to be a bumper year, thought to be the highest since 1976. This will not come as a surprise to anyone who has visited the salt flats where the producers rely on heat and a gentle wind to dry their product. In 2021, rainy periods in June and July made drying difficult but that is not a problem they have faced this year. Producers along the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts have announced record-breaking harvests.

Octobre Rose

Since 1994, the month of October has been dedicated to fighting breast cancer here in France through raising awareness, promoting breast screening and raising funds for research and caregiving. The first event took place in the US in 1985, while in 1992 SELF Magazine created a pink ribbon concept to symbolise the importance of breast cancer awareness. Later, SELF editor Alexandra Penney teamed up with Evelyn Lauder, vice-president of Estée Lauder, to distribute 1.5 million ribbons at Estée Lauder cosmetics counters worldwide. Lauder, herself a breast cancer survivor, formed The Breast Cancer Research Foundation which continues to raise awareness and fund research. Here in France, one woman in eight is at risk of developing breast cancer during her lifetime and 60,000 new cases per year are identified. Octobre Rose is led by the association Ruban Rose which awards its Prix Ruban Rose annually to support researchers and carers. Every 1 October, the Eiffel Tower is lit in pink and the month of breast cancer awareness begins with events across the country. For information and to donate, see cancerdusein.org.

Hermione’s Future

The future of the replica frigate Hermione has been under a cloud since her dry dock inspection in Anglet (64) near Bayonne last year revealed a far more serious mushroom infestation in her hull than previously realised. Initially expected to be there for a few months, she has already been in dry dock for over a year and is unlikely to be seaworthy until at least 2024. Visits to the frigate in Anglet are helping to raise the funds needed for her repair. Meanwhile, Rochefort (17) is trying to fill the hole left by her absence with other historic tall ships - this year El Galeon Andalucia received 500 visitors a day and the call is out to find a ship to visit for the summer of 2023.

Holiday Homes

A long-time favourite with British second-home owners, Dordogne continues to be the most sought-after destination for French second-home owners too. The SeLoger group have published details of a year-long study into the market which shows searches for Dordogne properties on their website just ahead of those for Yonne and Var. While Parisians prefer the proximity of Yonne along with the modest prices, it is not surprising that Bordeaux and Toulouse residents favour Dordogne. The commune most searched for is Saint-Cyprien (right) which attracts 7.5 per cent of all searches in Dordogne. Its popularity is thought to be both its heritage and the fact that it is lively in summer, especially with its gourmet markets. Properties are also seen as being affordable, particularly when compared with country homes in the Var. There are now 3.6 million second

DIARY DATEs!

Admire the work of some 30 artists at the Rue des Métiers d’Art at Nontron Open from 28-30 October, entry costs 2€.

Hail Damage

With thousands of hectares of forest burning this summer, it is easy for those outside the area to forget the impact of the catastrophic hailstorms that raged across the Ribérac region in June. Some 18,000 hectares of forest were severely damaged alongside many homes and vineyards. As well as losing their leaves, the damage to the bark on the trunk makes the trees highly susceptible to insect damage. Many of the parcels of forest are owned by individuals who tend the trees for decades before harvesting the wood. Many owners are taking the decision to send the smaller trees to the paper mill and the ones older than 20 years to make pallets before beginning the work of replacing the damaged trees. It will take time for the forests to heal.

homes in France and rural property prices have increased since the beginning of the pandemic, on average by 8.1 per cent in one year and 15.5 per cent in the past two years according to the property search group.

Learn about local mushrooms when you visit the inaugural Salon du Champignon to be held in Chancelade, Périgueux on 5-6 November.

Ru R al HealtH Se R vice

The provision of medical services in rural communities continues to be an area of concern for many. With around 2,000 residents, Le Buisson-de-Cadouin in the south of the département is similar to other communes in trying to find cost-effective ways to provide local services. The local health centre, run by a not-for-profit association, regularly welcomes visiting health professionals and took the decision in 2021 to employ a part-time doctor. However, this decision has led the association into severe financial difficulty culminating in the termination of the doctor’s contract. With 400 patients, the doctor was clearly offering a valuable service to the community, but they were only able to see 2-3 patients per hour as many are elderly. To make the position viable, this needs to increase to 4-5 patients per hour. 400 patients are now without a doctor and an online petition has been launched to highlight the issue. The question remains the same for many rural communities, how to afford a health service even if a doctor can be enticed to the commune?

The Franco British Network established itself as a not-forprofit association in 2019 to provide support services to its members in building their new lives in Dordogne and beyond. After helping almost 3,000 individuals with Brexit residency permit applications, a service funded by the UK Government after the advocacy of British in Europe, it has recently expanded its offer. Its informative and up-to-date website provides information to both individuals and businesses covering a range of topics from residence visas and business set up to tax and healthcare. A social calendar offers opportunities to visit local attractions and meet other residents with events open to all. Also, you can find information on the new ‘Ask FBN’ service for members which provides an email helpline service alongside access to a network of service providers. See francobritishnetwork.fr for details.

Changing Habits

The tourism figures for Dordogne this summer were mixed. Visitors from the US, Netherlands and Spain were back but many reported that visits were shorter and the spend per person was lower. Campsites appear to have done well, hotels and restaurants less so, with many seeing lower receipts than in 2019. In part, this was caused by a lack of personnel limiting the services able to be offered by hotels and restaurants, while cost-of-living concerns also appear to have impacted spending. Tourist attractions were well frequented with the Château des Milandes (above) having an exceptional year following the publicity surrounding Joséphine Baker’s entry to the Panthéon.

de moutier St Gilles Croix de Vie Chantonnay Luçon La Tranche sur Mer

LA ROCHE SUR-YON

Les Sables d’Olonne

Les Herbiers Montalgu Bressuire NIORT

SévreNantaise St-MaixentL’école Melle

Parthenay Sévre Niortaise

deux-sèvres & veNdée Thouars St Jean de Monts

Niort’s Café Scene

For several years there have been rumours that Starbucks would be opening new cafés in the region after launching several in and around Bordeaux and Nantes. The rumours, though, have fizzled out...that is until now. Recruitment for a Starbucks in Niort started in early September. It is expected to take over the old Sephora premises and open towards the end of the year. Some see this as a positive move to revitalise Niort centre, while other residents are not so keen to see the American chain arriving in their city where it will compete with several existing cafés.

Green Gendarmes

Gérald Darmanin, France’s interior minister, has announced the strengthening of the ‘Office central de lutte contre les atteintes à l’environnement’ (Oclaesp). 3,000 gendarmes vert across France will receive special training in combating ecological attacks such as the arson attacks seen this summer when between 80-120 fires were tackled each day and 26 suspected arsonists were arrested. The office was created back in 2004 and played an important part in tackling the Landiras fire in July. As well as arson, the team is tasked with fighting trafficking (of medicines, waste, protected species, etc.), doping in sport, physical pollution, food scandals and bioterrorism.

Renovation Funds

Château de la Socelière with its commanding views over the Vendée river and the Mervent forest near Fontenay-le-Comte, is of historical importance to the local area as the home to local lords since the 17th century. In recent times the Château graced the pages of international magazines after a significant internal renovation by an Italian couple who purchased it in the 1990s. It changed hands last year after the new owners fell in love with the Château on sight despite much needed external renovations to the façade and a small belltower. To raise the 270,000 euros necessary to complete the repairs, the Fondation du Patrimoine has launched an appeal which has sparked debate in the area. While recognising the importance of maintaining local landmarks, there have been questions asked about raising money for private homes in the current climate. The initial appeal is for 10,000 euros.

DIARY DATE!

The Fête des Plantes at the Domaine de Péré (79) will be held over the weekend of 15-16 October. Entry costs 7€ for adults.

Do you have an event that you would like to publicise in Living Magazine? Just drop us a line at events@ livingmagazine.fr

news from arounD the region...

Wildlife Festival

The annual Deux-Sèvres festival celebrating wildlife documentaries from round the world opens on 27 October. Over 6 days, forty documentaries will be screened and discussed, with prizes awarded in several categories. Alongside will be conferences, local nature visits, wildlife art and photography exhibitions, an equipment fair and much more. The Ménigoute festival has become an important meeting place for documentary creators and wildlife experts but local residents are equally welcome. The full programme of events can be found on the festival’s website. Entry to the festival is free although screenings are ticketed. You will need to check availability for screenings with the organisers. See menigoutefestival.org.

Planting Parasols

The Jeune Chambre Économique in La Roche-sur-Yon (85) has been inspired by its compatriots in Toulouse to install one or, hopefully, two parasols végétaux in front of Les Halles next spring. The group, which welcomes individuals between the ages of 18 and 40, works on projects to improve their local town. With the heat of this summer, the lack of shade and trees in the square was apparent so the group see planted parasols as a way to provide both. They are raising the funds needed to purchase the supporting metal structures before planting begins in early spring.

vienne & haute-vienne

heritage award

Australians Felicity Selkirk and Tim Holding purchased the impressive 105-room Château de Purnon in north Vienne in 2020. Built in the 18th century the Château, along with many of its structures, is listed as a Historic Monument but is in need of urgent repairs particularly to its slate roof and tufa stone façades. The couple recently received good news when the nominations for the Loto du Patrimoine were revealed and the Château was selected for Vienne. Says Felicity: “It is an immense honour for Château de Purnon to be awarded the Mission Stéphan Bern. The works to save Purnon are extremely urgent and complex. Thanks to the Mission Bern and the Fondation du Patrimoine, the second stage of these enormous works will be able to commence in the coming months and will ensure Purnon will now be saved for future generations.” They hope to open to the public and host events once essential works are complete - follow their progress on Instagram or YouTube.

Athletics Arena

In May 2021, the project to build a covered athletics stadium in Limoges was approved to give the east of NouvelleAquitaine an arena in which to hold major championships. Included in the plans are a 6-lane 200m track and an 8-lane 60m track, long jump/triple jump pit, high jump and pole vaulting areas as well as cages for shot put and other field events. The stadium will be able to accommodate up to 1,000 spectators. However, the project has been hit hard by the increase in material prices and inflation since Covid. Initially costed at 13.5 million euros, the estimate now tops 21 million euros. A 6-month delay in delivering the building permit has not helped and the city is now in negotiations with funders to find the additional budget required. Work was expected to start in 2023 but this date is now under pressure.

Airport Closure

Limoges Airport will be closed from 31 October to 11 December to carry out necessary refurbishments to comply with European regulations. As well as the complete refurbishment of the runway and the aircraft parking areas, all lighting will be switched to LED to improve energy consumption. No aircraft can land or take off while this is happening and so the airport will close completely. This is traditionally the low season for the airport and it is expected that services will be fully operational for the busy Christmas period.

Macron’s Advisor

Born in Poitiers, Frédéric Michel attended Sciences Po Bordeaux and then the London School of Economics. He was recently announced as President Macron’s new communications and strategy advisor but will be recognised by UK political pundits as one-time advisor to New Labour as well the lobbyist for News Corp at the time of the BSkyB takeover. His relationship with then culture secretary Jeremy Hunt through his aid Adam Smith was investigated by the Leveson enquiry. Michel went on to work closely with James Murdoch, son of Rupert, on the investment in Brut in 2021, an international online media platform. With his international media experience, he will help the President shape his legacy before Macron leaves office in 2027.

Funds for CSFSP

Plant Festival

The 6th edition of the Saint-Junien ‘Fête des Plantes, Jardin et de la Nature’ will take place on Sunday 23 October, and with over 140 exhibitors it is much anticipated by gardeners and nature lovers around the region. Forty nurseries offer everything from seeds and bulbs to fruit trees, while other specialists and artisans will share their knowledge and wares. Throughout the day there are also free events. Art workshops include pottery, painting with plants and felting, and you can visit the exhibitions around biodiversity and environmental protection. Mulching, hoeing and watering will be debated at 11am and 3pm or you can join a 5km fauna/flora hike at 10am. Snacks are available all day with a paella lunch menu for 13€ (reservations required), and entry to La Châtelard de SaintJunien costs 2€ (free for under-18s).

DIARY DATE!

Since 2020, Association FoutezNous la Paix! has organised a festival in Saint-Junien (85) on the subject of peace and conflicts. This year’s themes are ‘China’ and ‘Women: wars & peace’ and the festival runs from 1730 October. On 5 October CinéBourse will be screening “Des Femmes Face aux Missiles”, a film narrated by the protesters at Greenham Common (with French subtitles).

Call

The wildlife rescue organisation ‘Centre de Soins à la Faune Sauvage Poitevine’ based near Poitiers has received a boost through recognition by the Jane Goodall association in France. ‘Le Réveil des Forces Sauvages’ promotes organisations which do incredible work on the ground to raise awareness and protect wildlife and their habitat. As well as the opportunity to promote their organisations in Paris at the beginning of October, the ten nominated organisations will be supported via the environmental crowd funding platform Blue Bees. The funds raised will be used to build a hedgehog chalet and more rooms for mammals at CSFSP. The

The GreaT Defen D er

We celebrate a remarkable figure whose works helped shape the destiny of France

WORDS & PHOTOS: ROGER MOSS

Fort Lupin, on the Charente Estuary

Right: The Fort de Sacoa, on the Basque coast

We love romantic images of fortresses with mighty keeps, battlements and rounded towers, yet military historians will tell you that the age of sites like these came to an abrupt end with the development of heavy artillery. It was bad enough for garrisons of medieval fortifications or those living within ancient city walls to witness their previously impregnable defences being reduced to rubble, but for Louis XIV it plunged the powerful nation over which he reigned into a state of crisis.

One of his first responses was to dispatch one Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban (later Marquis de Vauban) on a tour of inspection which would eventually involve covering several thousand

kilometres around France on horseback. Now celebrated as France’s greatest military engineer, Vauban’s mission was to identify locations in urgent need of new military installations and to strengthen existing defences at sites of major strategic importance. For each location he would draw up detailed construction plans incorporating the very latest refinements necessary to resist artillery bombardment. At their heart lay a simple enough principle: while a cannonball projected square-on at a stone wall could shatter even the toughest masonry, firing obliquely would merely result in a glancing blow, leaving the stonework largely intact.

Vauban’s refinements of a concept originally exploited by Dutch engineers resulted in distinctive, complex star-

Vauban’s statue watches over a square in Avallon

shaped plans whose acutely angled projecting bastions would deny heavy artillery the opportunity to mount a square-on attack. For extra security these geometrical elements were sloped (battered) rather than vertical and often duplicated in layers separated by deep excavations, creating dry or floodable moats. Less immediately obvious were the massive earthwork ramparts reinforcing their stonework, and whose soil also capped the masonry to prevent lethal fragments of stone being projected during an attack. Vauban would eventually design over thirty entirely new installations and strengthen around 300 existing fortifications around France. His influence didn’t stop there; star-shaped defences were also widely adopted elsewhere in

Europe and further afield, including the former Spanish colony of Florida and in Dutch Malacca (part of Malaysia). Our own region of Nouvelle Aquitaine is fortunate in possessing several important installations which show the unmistakable hand of Vauban. In many cases their purpose was not to protect the areas on which they were constructed, but to defend important sites nearby from enemy attack. On the banks of the Gironde, for example, lie multiple installations constructed to control access to the port of Bordeaux. The largest is the Citadelle de Blaye, sited on a modest limestone headland overlooking the estuary. It was begun in 1652, a time when weapons had insufficient range to cover the 3km-wide estuary, so in addition to strengthening

and updating Blaye’s existing fortifications, Vauban also constructed Fort Médoc on the opposite bank and Fort Paté on an island in midstream. Since that meant building on little more than an unstable sandbank, the circular 12m-high stone tower was constructed on a lattice-work bed of oak piles. The resulting trio of defensive installations was referred to as ‘Le Verrou de l’Estuaire’ (or security lock).

A little further north lay an even more valuable prize than Bordeaux, in the shape of the naval dockyards of the Arsenal Royal de Rochefort, founded on the banks of the Charente in 1666. Aware of their vulnerability to attack, Louis XIV instructed Vauban to strengthen their existing defences and add whatever he deemed necessary to

Fort de Fouras (17)

Brouage sits among coastal marshland (17)

Traditional timber framed buildings, garages, car ports, pergolas, pool houses, verandas and much more, designed and fabricated to suit your space

protect their seaward approaches in the bay known as le Pertuis d’Antioche. First, though, he rectified what he saw as a major flaw in the dockyards’ defences, which did not encompass the entire complex, but left part of the riverbank unprotected. In 1686 new ramparts were constructed along the river frontage, and further angled bastions added to the arsenal’s existing defences.

Meanwhile, a few meanders downstream he constructed Fort Lupin, whose gun emplacements could cover 180° to fire upon anything which had succeeded in making it that far. Beyond it, on the opposite bank, he added its rive droite counterpart: Fort Lapointe. Two batteries of cannon were then constructed

off Port-des-Barques on the tiny île Madame, complementing the firepower of the complex now known as Fort Vauban, and which overlooks Grande Plage at Fouras-les-Bains

A stronghold since the 12th century, its defences were reinforced around 1689 by engineer Francis Ferry under the direction of Vauban. Beyond Fouras the Fort de l’Aiguille was constructed at a location which gave it the capability of defending both sides of a slender peninsula extending to the Pointe de la Fumé.

In 1674 Vauban also turned his attention to the île d’Aix, the moated Fort de la Rade being completed around twenty years later on the southern tip of the island. However, much of what greets today’s visitors

Citadelle de Blaye (33) was built to control access to Bordeaux

Vauban emblem, Lille

Fort

Plaque, Briançon (05)

Ville Vauban, Briançon (05)

The Fort National, Saint-Mâlo (35)

The Fort de l’île Madame (17)

Château d’Oléron (17)

Fort Louvois, Fouras-les-Bains (17)

Fort de Fouras ramparts (17)

arriving from Fouras and Port-desBarques dates from later reconstruction after a British attack in 1757 and from a general strengthening of the island’s defences under the orders of Napoléon I, whose string of batteries attests to the island’s strategic value. The Emperor also ordered the construction of Fort Boyard, which Vauban had dismissed as impractical, due to its unstable, wave-lashed site between Aix and the île d’Oléron On the latter, replacing a 12th century stronghold overlooking a small port you’ll find Vauban’s magnificent star-shaped Citadelle du Château d’Oléron, conceived with batteries of cannon capable of repelling attacks from both land and sea. Its partner in the defence of Rochefort was Fort Louvois, constructed in 1691-1694 and still a familiar sight just off the Pointe du Chapus NW of Marennes. It’s accessible via a tidal causeway or by boat, depending on tidal state. Also close to Marennes lies Brouage, for centuries an important port, and hurriedly fortified when Richelieu decided to use it as a base from which to mount the Siege of La Rochelle. Some years later Vauban was called upon to strengthen and modernise its defences. You can admire the results during a stroll around the 8m-high

ramparts, while reflecting upon the fact that the real enemy turned out to be the silt deposited by nearby rivers. Eventually the coastline retreated, leaving this former fortified port high and dry.

Further north on the île de Ré the Redoute de Rivedoux was constructed between the north and south beaches of the Pointe de Sablanceaux, a site described by Vauban as the most vulnerable to attack in all France. Nearby, on a low headland just north of the bay he added the Fort de la Prée, complete with a tiny fortified port. It’s a mere curtain-raiser, though, for his refinements to Ferry’s initial defences for the seaport town of Saint-Martinde-Ré, a project whose urgency after the Siege of La Rochelle saw it completed in just four years. Remarkably, the greater part of the vast defensive complex has survived intact, the most obvious modification concerning the citadel whose purpose was to dissuade the English warships from attacking the island, La Rochelle and Rochefort. Originally integrated into the ramparts, it now stands as a separate entity, its garrisons having been replaced until 1938 by deportees bound for penal colonies overseas, and now accommodating high-risk long-term prisoners. In 2008 Saint-Martin-de-Ré was listed

Clockwise from above:

Liédot, île d’Aix (17)

by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. While our closest regional sites are impressive, you’ll encounter many of Vauban’s other remarkable works during your travels around France. Close to the Franco-Spanish border lies the Citadelle de Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, constructed with star-shaped ramparts and bastions, while on the nearby Basque coast stands Fort de Sacoa, built to protect Saint-Jean-de-Luz from Spanish raiders. Also down in the Pyrénées is the medieval walled town of Villefranche-deConflent, for whose additional security Vauban created the mighty hilltop fortress of Fort Libéria Meanwhile, Vauban provided the Breton port of Saint-Mâlo and its approaches with no fewer than four forts.

On a more epic scale, though, are his works in the French Alps, including the fortified town of Briançon. In the face of threats by the Ducs de Savoie, Vauban completely re-planned the town on multiple levels, added satellite fortresses on elevated sites nearby and constructed the vast Fort Dauphin on a plateau further down the valley. He also designed the Collegiate Church and sited it on the ramparts, confident that it would never be attacked.

So well defended was ’la Ville Vauban’ that in 1815 it withstood a three-month siege by AustroSardinian troops, a testament to the design capabilities of a former soldier who had gained first-hand insight into the tactics of warfare while personally directing over fifty sieges. He is also credited with founding the French army’s engineering corps – l’Arme du Génie.

A Breath of Fresh Aire

Thanks to a long-standing rule of French cultural imposition, the next time you’re travelling on the motorways around France take time to pull in to the aires - what is there may surprise you!

As a child, the road from Britain to France always seemed to be monumentally long, and deadly boring. A never-ending line that seemed to stretch out and get longer the further we drove. But then, shooting up from among the trees that whizzed past my back seat window, I’d spot the red, blue and yellow wheels of the “L’arbre à roues” sculpture by the side of the motorway and instantly perk up: we were almost there.

Pierre Manent’s installation, built in 1986 on the flanks of the A10 motorway, just after Niort (79), is one of many works of art that pepper

the landscape of France’s motorway network, a result of a governmental building regulation that reached full force in the 1980s.

The “1% artistique” rule, in effect since 1951, states that wherever a new structure is built in the public domain (a school, a roundabout, a motorway…), 1% of the total construction bill (before tax and minus the architect’s fee) should go towards the creation of a piece of art to improve its aesthetic impact, as well as bring high art to the people. 12,400 projects have already been funded via this initiative, which is still

in effect, bringing large-scale artwork to an audience who aren’t necessarily museum-goers.

As a result France’s already impressive motorway system has become an integral part of its cultural landscape. Giant boars that guard the wide cement roads at their feet, gravity defying cyclists that bend the path that led to them and hour-long guided tours through sculpted stone quarries; they all have their part to play in transforming what would usually be a solemn, functional landscape into a country-wide open-air museum. On the A64, the art actually does

WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSICA KNIPE (unless otherwise indicated)

Top left: The giant cement ball sliced in half at the aire in Maillé (37) bears witness to the massacre that occurred nearby during the Second World War. This page: Soaring 18 metres above the aire of Les Pyrénées (64), this sculpture celebrates the first time that the Tour de France included the Col du Tourmalet.

come with a museum: the aire at Hastingues (40) marks the spot where three of the traditional roads to Compostelle meet, and celebrates with a large statue of the original pilgrim, as well as a museum dedicated to the history of his pilgrimage. As for Lozay (17), the entire aire has become a museum in itself, acting as a beautiful introduction to medieval architecture in the Saintonge, with full-scale reproductions of 11th and 12th century structures throughout the region. The motorway company even regularly employs historical guides to enlighten travellers keen to feed their minds as they give their bodies a break. Elsewhere, the artwork is constantly expanding, such as the aire of Crazannes (17), on the A837, where old limestone quarries used to build the most beautiful towns in the region have been converted into an open-air sculpture park. Artists from around the world come to carve their work into the soft stone walls, and a 10-minute breather to stretch your legs could easily become an hour-long, wide-eyed escape to take them all in.

At the weekend the city car took to the open road

“

I’d spot the red, blue and yellow wheels of the ‘L'arbre a roues’ sculpture by the side of the motorway and instantly perk up: we were almost there.”

Stop at the aire in Calais to catch a glimpse of the white cliffs of Dover

Often, the commission is a simple, bold comment about a local tradition or a particular part of the region’s history. The aire of Les Pyrénées (64), on the A64, celebrates the first time that the Tour de France included

Is it time that

More than a Pause

If you take the time to carefully plan your visit to the aire of Lozay (17), you might just get a guided tour thrown in as a bonus. The aire showcases an extensive range of reproductions of the Roman art from surrounding towns and villages, and local historians are often on hand to give you a 20-minute crash course in gargoyles and church doors so that even if you didn’t have time to visit them in person, you’ll have a good

the col du Tourmalet, in 1910 – the monumental “Grande Boucle” sculpture stretches into a mind-bending 18-metre high, 30-metre long hommage. In Maillé (37), on the A10, a haunting circular stone split in two

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these monumental installations. There is no official list of works available, nor much explanation of the art’s intentions on site. Their existence is rarely publicised, they seem to exist only as mysterious oddities to be stumbled upon between a triangle sandwich and a trip to the toilet.

In 2009, photographer and graphic artist Julien Lelièvre received a grant from the Centre national des Arts plastiques (CNAP) to research this “motorway art”. From his research

he published a book of photos and pondering essays about this French exception, Art d’Autoroute. It’s a meditation on a tradition that is often looked down upon, despite its fundamentally well-meaning intention of bringing beauty to the masses.

“Everyone is familiar with at least one example of motorway art,” explains the photographer, “from the most cultured people to those who never set foot in a museum… It’s quite rare for a work of art to be so connected to personal experience.”

Apart from being absolutely massive, visible from a distance and impossible to ignore, there is no specific rulebook for the artists to follow, and the works range from cartoonish renditions of

local heroes to futuristic interpretations of the meaning of public interest. Most speak of the territory that they are a part of, and act as doorways that lead to a further exploration of regions that travellers would otherwise only zoom through on their way to another. These days, motorways are mostly privatised, and the tradition of motorway art has fallen into the hands of the roads’ owners. Some of the older artworks have aged badly, others are still completely astounding in their scope and scale, but all are worth a detour.

Next time you’re on the autoroute and need to give your body a break, don’t forget to use the time to expand your mind as well, and surprise yourself by discovering something new. The journey IS the destination.

Clockwise from left: A statue of Saint Jacques reminds travellers they are on the way to Compostelle, in Hastingues (40); behind the fountain by Pol Bury, the aire de Poitou-Charentes (79) includes a visitor centre with information about the region; in Crazannes (17), weary drivers can stretch their legs for a few minutes at the visitor centre, or for an hour touring the stone quarry.

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MARRAKESH, MOROCCO

TIME of ThE SIGNS

WORDS: RogeR Moss

Despite spiralling fuel prices, given a full tank (or a full charge) we can still get behind the wheel and head just about anywhere. That’s something we now take for granted, but while the road wheel has been around for millennia, until the late 19th century it somehow remained a real bone-shaker.

Everything changed in 1891, when a cyclist arrived at the workshop of Michelin et Cie in Clermont-Ferrand with his bike, which had become unridable after suffering a puncture. Today we could fix it ourselves in minutes and be on our way, but his rims were bound with glued-on rubberised fabric tubes, an arrangement which made repairs a laborious and lengthy affair. The shortcomings of such a primitive arrangement were immediately obvious to Edouard and André Michelin, who came up with the idea of using their company’s expertise in manufacturing moulded rubber products to produce removable tyres

with separate inflatable inner tubes, seated onto steel rims. As expected, this new approach reduced the time needed for puncture repairs from a couple of hours to just a few minutes, and also offered riders a far more secure and comfortable ride. The benefits didn’t stop there, however, for it was immediately obvious that Michelin’s tyre-and-tube system also provided greatly improved grip on variable road surfaces, so corners could be tackled at much higher speeds than previously.

Aware of the immense commercial potential of such a technological breakthrough, on 18 July 1891 the company registered its ‘perfectionnement aux bandages pour tous vélocipèdes et autres véhicules’. Two months later French cycling star Charles Terront rode his Michelin-equipped bike to a sensational victory in the inaugural Paris–Brest–Paris race, completing the 1,196km course over 8 hours ahead of his closest rival. Soon cyclists everywhere were riding

on Michelin tyres and tubes, but while it kick-started mass mobility the bike would soon be sharing the roads with motor vehicles, whose comfort and handling qualities

We reveal the remarkable story of how two brothers from the Auvergne became pioneers of tourism in France.

had also been transformed from 1895 by Michelin’s pneumatic tyres. Take-up received a substantial boost four years later when Belgian driver Camille Jenatzy established a world speed record of 100km/h at the wheel of a streamlined electric vehicle equipped with specially widened and reinforced Michelin tyres. To meet the subsequent demand from vehicle manufacturers Michelin expanded production in Clermont-Ferrand, and before long were also supplying replacement tyres to vehicle owners.

While the expanding rail network had linked cities and made coastal resorts and spa towns accessible, André Michelin could see that the motor car would give anyone with the means to possess one the ability to travel wherever they wished. He therefore lost no time considering ways in which vehicle owners and their chauffeurs might be encouraged to venture ever further from home (and require replacement tyres sooner). The company’s first step was the creation of the Guide Michelin France, published with a print run of 35,000 in 1900. Popularly referred to as simply ‘le Guide rouge’, its pages were packed with a wealth of practical information including directions, journey distances, petrol suppliers, town street maps and more. Offered free of charge to motorists, who could resist? Nine years later it was joined by an English language edition aimed squarely at visitors from across the Channel. Now synonymous with its Michelin Star

Now instantly recognisable, he was conceived at the 1894 Lyon Exhibition, when Edouard Michelin commented to his brother that their display of different-sized tyres resembled a man. Some years later he appeared on an advertising poster (left), raising a glass beneath the Latin headline ‘Nunc est Bibendum’ or ‘now is the time to drink’ – a toast to the tyres’ ability to swallow bumps and pot-holes. The name stuck, the character became hugely popular and over 120 years later, after a few early tweaks to make him cuddly rather than creepy, Bibendum, now slimmed down, (also known as ‘le Bonhomme Michelin’) is still out there promoting the brand worldwide.

BiBendum: the michelin man

Clockwise from top left: André and Edouard Michelin Classic pre-1946 enamelled plaque

ratings for fine dining, the original inclusion of hotels and auberges with restaurants was designed to meet the needs of anyone planning an overnight stop. Many of those who followed the recommendations began sharing their experiences with the company, and offering their own for consideration. Since a recommendation from Michelin added considerably to an establishment’s reputation, all sampling was carried out completely anonymously, to ensure scrupulous reliability and accuracy of information. Exceptional standards of quality would then be awarded with the star ratings which have since become something of a global benchmark for fine dining. As the Age d’Or of motoring unfolded the company established a tourism

department, opened information offices in both Paris and London and in 1910 published its first 1/20,000 scale maps of the road network, whose rapid expansion would thereafter require regular updates. In fact, it became a two-way process, as previously inaccessible locations suddenly found themselves attracting visitors, which in turn stimulated improvements in road access. In a bid to help drivers reach their destinations on unfamiliar roads André Michelin campaigned in 1912 to have routes numbered, and at the end of WWI the company added another chapter to its key role in popularising tourism in France, by introducing clear and durable road signage, a revolutionary innovation in itself. The manufacturing process was surprisingly

laborious, with enamelled Auvergnat lava panels set into bases of reinforced concrete. In time the factory went on to develop an extensive range of road signs suited to different settings, its production of bornes, poteaux and the celebrated plaques Michelins continuing until the early 1970s. The locations and orientation of the company’s bornes de signalisation (hazard warnings and direction signs) were determined by painstaking research, while the bornes routières (perpetuating a system of roadside markers established during the Roman era) bearing route numbers and kilometre intervals, have proved so valuable that their successors, employing lighter, more forgiving materials, are still produced to-day. Next time you hear the expression

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“à cinquante bornes d’ici” – meaning “50km from here” – you’ll know why.

Despite standardised route signage having been introduced back in 1971 a surprising number of Michelin signs are still to be seen at roadsides throughout France. They’re easy to identify, thanks to their distinctive bold black lettering on a white or pale cream background bounded by a dark blue lozenge. Wall-mounted plaques produced prior to 1946 (when commercial branding of any kind was outlawed) feature a small PLAQUE MICHELIN in white lettering on a rectangle – green for routes départementales and red for nationales and sometimes the name of the relevant département. Towards the end of production, the classic enamelled lava panels were replaced by less labour intensive versions stamped from sheet metal

Above L to R: Post- and pre-1946 direction signage, plus an early version remounted on a later column

Green Guides, and more besides

Early travel guides to historic sites and monuments, published around 1906 by the Touring Club de France, inspired Michelin to produce a series of illustrated guides to WWI battlefields. Early travellers with other destinations in mind were invited to write to Michelin for advice to prepare for their journey. The company would then respond by return post, free of charge, with a route guide indicating a recommended itinerary, towns to be crossed and any specific precautions to take en-route.

By 1925 the volume of requests had exploded, so the following year Michelin published its first tourist guides, whose editions soon expanded to embrace the whole of France, and whose covers changed from red to green around 1945. The Michelin Green Guides remain in print to this day, their original line illustrations having been replaced by full colour maps and photographs.

with conventional painted colours. As for the poteaux and bornes, the diversity of what they indicate resulted in numerous variations, but most of the classic earlier examples share the same visual style seen on the wall plaques, although mounted on a reinforced concrete structure – hollow and cylindrical in the case of the large bornes d’angle installed at major road intersections.

In all cases any concrete surfaces were originally painted white or pale cream, although time and neglect have taken their toll, and most have lost their former elegant appearance. However, their retro charm has won them a growing number of fans. In 2020, for example, the residents and maire of Joncels (34) mounted a campaign of resistance to prevent the Michelin sign which had stood at the entry to their village since 1958 being removed and replaced by a standardised commune sign, which they considered rather soulless. While currently the early signs have no official protection, the campaign to preserve what the villagers regarded as part of their local patrimoine proved successful, so perhaps other surviving examples of Michelin’s pioneering tourism landmarks might also be preserved and celebrated by future generations.

Sit back and enjoy the fascinating story of Michelin’s tourism initiatives recounted in audio (French) at: bit.ly/LMMichelin.

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Don’t worry about customs declarations and extra charges when sending a gift. Instead, give family and friends a taste of life here in south west France - the gift that keeps on giving!

Watch out for our shop opening soon on our website featuring unique gifts for family & friends www.livingmagazine.fr

HELP& monEy <<

Social Media for Business

QI run my own business and I am often advised to ‘get onto social media’. What is involved and how do I start?

AMost readers will know me as the editor of Living Magazine but I am also a long-time social media manager and have been managing accounts on several platforms for over 15 years. I’ve successfully grown tourism pages on Facebook to reach over 10 thousand followers and

these campaigns, they were planned as part of a larger marketing strategy and had measurable success criteria which they exceeded.

My first question to any business owner is: “Why?” What is it that you want to achieve by ‘doing’ some social media (SM)? SM takes time, dedication and consistency which ultimately will be at the cost of other activities - it is not free unless you consider that your time has no value.

marketing budget.

When evaluating the cost/ benefit of SM as part of your mix of activities, you will need to consider the time and budget you have to dedicate to it and what benefit you expect. It may not be tangible, e.g. reputation building, or it may be directly measurable in new customers.

managed groups with thousands of members. On Twitter, I’ve built an audience of 25 thousand quality followers, and am now building brands on TikTok where one video alone recently racked up 1.8 million views. There is one thing in common across

POWER HOUR

My next questions are around your ideal customer. Who are they, where are they, and what need does your service or product fulfil? These answers will help to identify which platform(s) they may use, how they use them and, importantly, if they seek out services and product information on those platforms. Spoiler alert: lots of people do not trust SM information unless backed by real life sources like print or word of mouth. If you yourself do not use or trust SM then why do you think your clients do?

Answering questions like these will bring you to a point where you can evaluate the different marketing options available and how you should best use your

The least expensive way to use SM is passively - some platforms offer a business page or profile which can double as a very basic web presence. Remember, though, that at any moment your page or profile can disappear. Unless you pay for promotion on the platform, few people will see your profile/page organically, but you can signpost to it from real life adverts and conversations. The cost is your time.

Alternatively, you can manage your presence actively, pushing your product and business out across your chosen platform(s). You will need to invest time in research and creating engaging posts, plus you will need to take time to engage with potential customers. You will find that after an initial growth spurt, to continue growing you will be asked to pay for promotional opportunities on the platform. Finally, you can simply pay the platform to share your posts with your chosen audience.

Kathryn Dobson has been managing social media accounts for 15 years alongside editing Living Magazine. To understand how best to market your business, arrange a power hour with Kathryn by emailing kathryn@ammfrance.com or visit livingmagazine.fr.

You need to be clear on your audience demographics, your success criteria and, importantly, spending limits. Spending small amounts daily can quickly add up and you will still need to invest time to engage with potential clients.

As with all marketing strategies, your success will be based on your knowledge of your business, its costs and its customers, so this is where you should start. While SM can help, it can also be a huge drain on your resources in ways that other options like print advertising are not. My biggest tip? To get the best returns, plan carefully before you commit any of your precious resources.

Help with Rising Costs

QI am concerned about the rising cost of living; is there anything I can be looking at to manage my income more effectively or reduce my household costs?

AWe have all seen reports in the news saying that inflation is rising and it has been a worrying time, especially if you are on a fixed income.

1) The first thing I recommend everyone does is to write out their monthly income and what their fixed household bills are. If you are struggling

with electricity bills or heating bills, contact your supplier and explain what amount you can pay, and they will help you with a payment plan. You can also work out which electrical appliances are using the most energy and whether you can reduce their useage.

2) Are income and expenditure in the same currency? If income is in sterling and payments in euros, are you using a currency company to track the rate of exchange? You can save money on transfer fees and book a rate in advance which will help with budgeting. It is likely your financial adviser will work

closely with several foreign exchange companies, however, check they appropriately regulated so your money is 100% protected.

3) Do you have any investments and savings and are you using the tax-efficient savings accounts available in France so you receive your interest without tax or social charges? Regarding any investments you hold, are you invested in an Assurance Vie which has a number of tax efficiencies? It is worth reviewing what investments you hold with your financial adviser to see if you can save any capital gains tax

Amanda Johnson works as an Independent Financial Advisor with The Spectrum IFA Group.

going forward too. Reviewing what you have and where it is can really influence your disposable income. As my grandmother used to say, “if you look after your pennies the pounds will look after themselves”.

T: 05 49 98 97 46 or 06 73 27 25 43; amanda.johnson@spectrum-ifa.com; www.spectrum-ifa.com/amanda-johnson.

To register for their newsletter, attend a roadshow event or speak directly to Amanda, call or email her. There is no charge for their financial planning reviews, reports or recommendations.

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20th October 2022

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WHERE MONEY TALKS

Avec les enfants

––––––––––––––––––––––––----------––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––---------------Time Marches On...

are very few certainties in the world at the moment. Everything is in turmoil from the tragedy of war to the crisis of climate change. However, one thing that never alters is time; day in, day out, time continues marching its merry path and somehow, we find ourselves in the middle of autumn once more. Summer has shifted to the past tense, evenings are darker, days are shorter and the air just that little bit more refreshing.

Growing up I hated autumn; it was confirmation that summer was over. My long holidays running free on the farm, messing about with ponies without a care in the world, had come to an end to be replaced by the monotony of school. I accepted I had to go, I would even say I was a good student, but I never really liked school, it got in the way of what I wanted to

be doing, which was riding ponies on the farm! Even as an adult I never liked autumn, until now. These past few years I’ve started to warm to the season, enjoying the shift to a slightly different routine as weather dictates. Perhaps it is because of where we live that I’m happier with these pre-winter months. Our summers tend to be long and hot and suddenly in October, we find ourselves able to do more outside. The garden beckons as it always does after months of semi-neglect because it’s been too hot and the ground too rock hard to do anything. The dogs of course love us, long walks are back on the cards, and picnics are even more enjoyable as a thermos of warm soup replaces one of cold water.

Best of all though, in this little corner of France, we can still eat outside at this time of year most days except when it’s raining. And if the nights are a bit nippy with a distinctive chill, then we light the fire pit to keep us warm. The teenagers and young adults are suddenly taken back to their childhoods and become young kids

once more toasting marshmallows on sticks in the glow of the warm embers. Many an evening we’ve sat out under the stars telling stories.

One such autumn evening last year I remember only too well. We’d eaten a deliciously tasty chicken bake around the fire, our little gathering illuminated only by a full moon as we sat staring at the clear night sky. The marshmallows had been finished and with a glass of nicely warmed red wine in hand, I sat listening to the children making up the most inventive tales of intrigue, reaching deep into their imaginations to amuse us all. The stories became more and more vivid, we were all visualising spaceships above us, which were stars and which were possibly aliens monitoring our movements. roddy, I realised, had quietly disappeared. No one else had taken any notice. My phone silently vibrated with a message, he was telling me that he was at the end of the garden and playing a trick which I was to go along with. A few seconds later a strange red light appeared a way off at the end of our land. Slowly it moved towards us. The conversation suddenly stopped as mesmerised we watched, it grew a little bigger and then stopped.

Jack took a discreet look at me and my phone which he’d noticed vibrate and winked. Without faltering he spoke out, breaking the nervously hushed stillness, telling a tale of extra-terrestrial activity. Within seconds our teenage daughters were running for the front door, screaming in fear. The light grew closer, we’d all run for the house, locking the door behind us, then either Jack or I laughed, I

can’t remember which of us broke the spell. Furious in a good-natured way the girls knew they’d been well and truly fooled. But it was an evening no one will forget. Just as an autumn evening should be, back to basics with a fire for warmth and good old-fashioned storytelling. However, it’s not just the evenings that I now rather enjoy, daytimes too have their own exciting offerings. If it’s been wet there are mushrooms to gather, foraging in old oak woods, picking chestnuts off the ground along the way. And there’s nothing like a good hike through the forest, fallen leaves a carpet underfoot and that

unmistakable smell of autumn in the air, a mixture of damp and lingering heat. And when we return home, rather than running for the pool or river to cool down, now we light the fire, make a hot chocolate and snuggle down on a cosy chair in the sitting room. Another room that is almost forgotten in the summer months when the entire show moves outdoors. Suddenly there are rooms to enjoy again, spaces to become reacquainted with and the kitchen table is once again covered with homework and schoolbooks. Such is the merry-go-round of life. If there is one thing I’ve learnt, it is to thoroughly enjoy each season and all that it offers.

Susan, husband Roddy and their five children live close to the coast in Charente-Maritime. Sign up for her regular newsletter at ourfrenchlifestyle.com

See if you can solve the crossword clues set by Mike Morris and find the theme. If you need a helping hand, take a peek at page 54.

ClueS aCroSS

1. Promote the family of great Russian poet? (7)

5. Stone me! Surrounded by last of rebel Italian fleet. (5)

8. One from the north batting first up, having sex appeal. (5)

9. One holding locks (or knockers) for the group getting water in Paris. (7)

10. One way to see a northern French town? (4)

11. Conflict on these fields lands ref in trouble. (8)

14. Backward lad becoming a hooligan. (3)

16. A little beauty! Prune that is. (5)

17. One turned over is turned over again; that should seal it. (3)

19. Coin and jewellery being placed in the middle. (8)

20. Arrangement of soft wood. (4)

23. Lured an organisation into the Duke of Norfolk’s home. (7)

25. Hazard guess that having no initial sound but double echo will mean a smooth transition. (5)

26. G-type transport for African country. (5)

27. Six thousand finally coming in soon for pope’s temporary home? (7)

ClueS down

1. Man possibly involved in wages design. (7)

2. Reject from Tottenham football club changing ends from south to north. (5)

3. Equipment on back end of plane; it can fly. (4)

4. Hot, cross product turned up in the centre. (3)

5. Paid for French end for dance to be arranged. (8)

6. Beg to differ, with rice recipe you get a big cold lump. (7)

7. Roust about gets about. (5)

12. No finish for instrument working in airport maybe. (5)

13. Give recognition to Cedric at work. (8)

15. Cross here perhaps, burn up in harbour? (7)

18. Initially looking very elegant, man about town. (7)

19. Clear about being a poet. (5)

21. Cultivator of sheiling losing his marbles perhaps? (5)

22. Drink essential to last inn. (4)

23. Metropolitan education organisation in the meadow? (3)

As autumn nights draw in, Nikki shares some of her favourite warming recipes…

Nikki Legon's

cuisine

Stuffed Peppers

1 large onion

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large cloves of garlic

3 sprigs of rosemary

2 large tomatoes

350g minced pork, chicken or lamb

50g breadcrumbs

6 small, long red peppers

grated Parmesan to cover

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Peel and finely chop the onion. In a frying pan, add a little olive oil and cook over a moderate heat until softened.

Peel and slice the garlic thinly and chop the leaves from the sprigs of rosemary. Add to the onions and cook gently till

soft and fragrant.

Chop the tomatoes and stir them in. Continue cooking until the tomatoes have collapsed into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the meat of your choice with the breadcrumbs.

Cut the peppers in half lengthways and remove the seeds. have a pan of boiling water and lower the peppers in to cook for 6-8 minutes. Remove and drain on a clean tea towel before placing onto a baking tray, skin side down. divide the meat mixture between the peppers, moisten with a little olive oil and sprinkle with grated Parmesan. Bake for 35 minutes until sizzling hot.

Lamb Ragout

1 large aubergine, cut into cubes

6 tbsp olive oil, divided into 3

1kg cubed lamb

1 large onion, cut into chunks

4 large garlic cloves, minced

200ml red wine

4 tbsp tomato paste

6 tomatoes, skinned and chopped

250ml lamb or chicken stock

1 bay leaf

2 tsp pepper

1 tsp thyme

1 tsp salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C. toss the aubergine cubes in 2 tbsp olive oil, then roast for 20 minutes. Remove

Stuffed Peppers Lamb Ragout

from the oven and set aside.

Brown the lamb in 2 tbsp of oil until brown all over. Add all the ingredients together and stir to combine. Cook on the hob on a low heat for 3 hours until tender. Serve with cous cous or rice.

Mushroom & Leek Rice

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large leek, thinly sliced

1 onion, peeled and chopped

200g mushrooms, sliced

¼ tsp salt

¼ tsp black pepper

2 tbsp chopped parsley

2 tbsp chopped dill

2 tbsp chopped coriander

Greek Meat & Potato Casserole

1 tbsp oil plus a little more for the baking dish

750g lamb or beef mince

1 onion, chopped finely

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp dried oregano

1 bay leaf

1 tsp cinnamon

2½ tsp paprika

1 tbsp plain flour

200ml red wine

400g tin chopped tomatoes

2 tbsp tomato purée

2 aubergines, thinly sliced

1 tbsp fine sea salt

100ml olive oil

500g potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced

For the béchamel sauce

50g butter

50g plain flour

400ml milk

25g grated Parmesan

1 tsp grated nutmeg

1 egg, beaten

Method

Put the meat, onion, garlic, oregano, bay leaf, cinnamon and paprika in a large saucepan and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon to separate the meat. Stir in the flour and season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, tomatoes and tomato purée and bring to a simmer.

2 garlic cloves, crushed

300g long grain rice

1l vegetable stock

Method

heat a large frying pan and add the olive oil. Cook the onions and leeks gently for 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and, when the mushrooms have released their liquid, season with salt and pepper. Continue to cook until the leeks are tender. Add the garlic and all of the herbs, sauté for 30 seconds more. Add the rice and stir to combine.

Add the vegetable stock. Place in a casserole dish, cover with foil and cook in a medium oven for 30 minutes or until the rice is cooked.

Cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened. taste and adjust seasoning.

Fry the aubergine slices in oil for 2-3 minutes on each side. drain on kitchen paper.

Cook the potatoes in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain in a colander and leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. to make the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a large saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook out the flour for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the milk, add the Parmesan and the grated nutmeg. Gently simmer the sauce for 3-4 minutes, stirring until it has a velvety texture. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and allow the sauce to cool, then beat in the egg. Spoon a third of the meat sauce into

Mushroom & Leek Rice

Greek Meat & Potato Casserole

a shallow ovenproof dish large enough to hold 2.5 litres. Cover loosely with a third of the potatoes and then a third of the aubergines. Repeat the layers twice more, finishing with aubergines. Pour the white sauce over, making sure it covers everything in a thick, even layer. Sprinkle with more Parmesan then bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden brown and bubbling

Vegetable Gratin

2 sweet potatoes, sliced thinly 1 branch celery, sliced thinly 2 parsnips, sliced thinly 2 carrots, sliced thinly

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

1 tbsp chopped rosemary

285ml thick cream

Chicken & Cheese

Savoury Pie

150ml milk

150g grated Cheddar cheese

3 eggs, beaten

Parmesan or vegetarian equivalent for topping

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Butter a shallow baking dish. In a bowl add all the ingredients and toss together, transfer to the baking dish. Sprinkle over the cheese.

Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until golden and bubbling.

Chicken & Cheese Savoury Pie

For the Pastry

150g grated Cheddar cheese

400g plain flour

1 pinch of salt

75g chilled butter

75g lard (saindoux) chilled (or replace with butter)

1 egg, beaten

For the Filling

6 skinless and boneless chicken breasts, sliced into thin strips

1 onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

50ml crème fraîche

150g Cheddar cheese

300g cream cheese

½ tsp english mustard

½ tsp cayenne pepper

salt and pepper

2 tbsp chopped parsley

2 tbsp chopped chives

Method

Make the pastry first. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl, add the diced butter and lard then rub between your fingertips until it resembles fine breadcrumbs.

Mix in the grated cheese, then add just enough of the beaten egg to bring the mixture together as a firm dough. Knead lightly and wrap in clingfilm. Chill until required. Preheat the oven to 200°C. heat the oil in a frying pan and cook the chicken strips, onion and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Remove and cool. Add the Cheddar, cream cheese, mustard, crème fraiche and

cayenne pepper. Mix well and season to taste. Finally, add the parsley and chives. Butter a loose-bottomed cake tin.

Roll out two-thirds of the pastry to line the tin with some overhanging. Spoon in the cold filling. Brush the edges with the beaten egg. Roll the remaining pastry to cover the pie. trim the edges, then flute or press with a fork to seal.

Brush with the remainder of the egg, and bake in the oven for 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Baked Ratatouille

Baked Ratatouille

1 aubergine

1 courgette

1 red pepper

1 yellow pepper

1 red onion

herbes de provence

2 branches thyme leaves

Method

Slice all the vegetables into rounds. Place into a large bowl and sprinkle with olive oil. Add 2 tbsp herbes de Provence and mix well.

In a baking dish, arrange the vegetables one after another packing tightly as they will shrink as they cook. Place the thyme springs on top and bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes or until tender.

Pumpkin Pie

For the sweet pastry

150g plain flour

75g chilled butter, cubed

50g icing sugar

1 egg yolk

For the Filling

750g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into chunks

140g caster sugar

½ tsp salt

½ tsp fresh nutmeg, grated

1 tsp cinnamon

2 eggs, beaten

25g butter, melted

175ml milk

1 tbsp icing sugar

Method

Cook the pumpkin or butternut squash in boiling water until tender. Put the flour, butter and sugar into a large bowl and rub through your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk. Mix until it forms a ball, flatten it out, wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Line a 20cm tart tin with baking parchment and preheat the oven to 180°C.

Roll out the pastry to 3mm thickness. Using the rolling pin, lift onto the tin and using a ball of dough, gently push the edges into the base and sides. trim away the edges with a knife and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Nikki Legon is the chef and owner of the Hotel Restaurant Karina in Les Métairies, just outside Jarnac in Charente. She and her husband Austin have transformed an old cognac distillery into a luxury 10-bedroom hotel and restaurant. For more information: www.hotelkarina.net

Line the pastry with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the beans and paper and cook for a further 10 minutes until the base is lightly golden. Remove and allow to cool slightly.

Increase the oven to 220°C. drain the pumpkin well and push through a sieve into a large bowl. In a separate bowl combine half the sugar with the salt, nutmeg and half the cinnamon. Mix in the beaten eggs, melted butter and milk, then add to the pumpkin purée and stir to combine.

Pour into the pastry case and cook for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180°C and continue to bake for a further 35-40 minutes until the filling has just set. Mix the remaining sugar and cinnamon together and sift over the pie.

A warm welcome awaits you ……. Come and discover the Hotel Restaurant Karina, set in a haven of greenery, just 3km from Jarnac in the beautiful Charentaise countryside.

Enjoy dining by the open fire in winter or on the terrace in fine weather with a choice of à la carte or fixed menus. In our bar, you will find the original copper alembic and here you can relax with an aperitif.

Join us for fish and chips on Fridays - lunch or dinner. We cater for special group occasions, call for more information

See our menus on our website

Vegetable Gratin

Pumpkin Pie

Understanding Sulphites

Sulphites (or sulfites depending on where you are in the world), comprise a range of sulphur compounds, in particular sulphur dioxide which is added to wine for its preservative, antioxidant and disinfectant properties. Sulphites are also used as cleaning agents in the winery. They are typically added through the wine-making process and then topped up at the time of bottling. Since sulphites can cause an allergic reaction, ‘contains sulphites’ is a required notice on labels. They can cause a range of inflammation-based symptoms – from redness and asthma to a headache or tightness across the forehead and a runny nose.

They have, though, been around a long time – Romans are known to have used them in a rock form - so unless you are allergic, the problem is not so much ‘use of’, but more ‘overuse of’ sulphites.

How much is okay?

TheWorld Health Organisation (WHO) recommends a maximum

You have probably noticed the words ‘contient des sulfites’ on almost all wine bottles. If you have wondered what they are and why they are there, Caro Feely explains....

sulphite intake of 0.7mg per kg of body weight per day. So, a person of 65kg should not have more than 45mg per day.

How much is in wine?

For conventional wine (not organic) the EU regulations range from 150mg/ litre for a red to 400mg/l for a sweet white. At the EU maximum levels for conventional dry white wine (200mg/l) a 65 kg person reaches the WHO recommended daily allowance by drinking less than a third of a bottle of white wine.

Some countries accept higher levels of sulphites in wine than the EU. For example, Australia has a limit across most wines of 250mg/l and the USA of 350mg/l. At 350mg/l – a small glass could put you over the recommended

maximum.

Taking the example of dry red wine: in the EU the conventional wine total sulphites maximum is 150mg/l and the organic wine maximum is 100mg/l. With certified organic dry red wine, you could enjoy two glasses and stay within the recommended level.

Biodynamic is stricter than organic, the maximum sulphite limits are lower than for organic wines. The Demeter certification stipulates 70 mg/l for dry red wines and 90 mg/l for dry white and rosé wines. The Biodyvin certification maximum is 80 mg/l for dry red wines and 105 mg/l for dry white and rosé wines.

At Château Feely we assess each wine for its ability to resist oxidation as well as measuring the level of acidity and tannin. If we believe that a wine can go without sulphites, then we don’t add any - we have several that fall into this category. However, if they are required to protect the quality of the wine then we add, but always at levels below the biodynamic maximum.

One effect of adding sulphites to wine is that they denature the vitamin B that is naturally present in grapes and therefore wine. Vitamin B helps our bodies process alcohol better, another reason to go for organic and nosulphite where possible.

Natural winegrowers can make wine that is low- and no-sulphite because of higher natural acidity and higher natural antioxidants that are created by organic farming. Organic grapes have higher natural antioxidants like resveratrol (see my second book in the vineyard series, ‘Saving our Skins’,

Photo:

for more on this) because vines create antioxidants when they are attacked by pests and diseases. If they have been treated with systemic pesticides, they will not be attacked and won’t create these things that are, ironically, good for us.

If you are sensitive to sulphites beware of other products that may contain them; cured ham, salami, smoked fish (and other fish), dried fruit (and nuts),

fruit juice and more.

Sean, my husband, and I choose to drink organic wine preferring it to be low-sulphite or sulphite-free. We feel better. This is not the case for everyone as natural wines (particularly bold unfiltered reds) can also contain more fermentation-derived histamines that can cause allergic reactions for some people. If you get a headache from red

Book a virtual event or course with Caro, learn about wine at the Feely’s wine school or visit Château Feely, a biodynamic and organic wine estate with accommodation, wine tours and vineyard walks. Read the story of the creation of the Feely vineyard in Caro’s book series - the 4th in the series will be out in 2023. Sign up to the newsletter at chateaufeely.com to find out more.

wine but not white wine then it is unlikely to be the sulphites that are the issue, as whites typically contain more than reds.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE YOU CAN TRUST

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EXCLUSIVE

Pretty Village

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DPE: Ongoing

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Must See

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Ref: A13404 - Gorgeous 4 bedroom stone house with outbuildings, hunting lodge and land.

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DPE: Ongoing

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Country Living

Charente-Maritime €109,000

Ref: A08674 - Pretty, spacious 4 bedroom village house with conservatory and garden.

9% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: F Climate class: F

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Riverside Location

Vienne €249,995

Ref: A10894 - Mill house in riverside location to renovate, with renovated 2 bedroom cottage, barns and 3 acres of land.

7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: No data

EXCLUSIVE

Original Features

Charente-Maritime €224,700

Ref: A14007 - Charming 4 bedroom house with outbuildings, in a small hamlet.

7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: Not required

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Beautiful Renovation

Charente-Maritime €269,000

Ref: A14876 - Spacious 3 bedroom stone house with garage, kennel and large garden, well renovated throughout.

8% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: Ongoing

Income Potential

Charente-Maritime €245,000

Ref: A13693 - Rural 5 bedroom maison de maître currently converted into 2 living areas with a main residence and gîte.

4% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: B Climate class: A

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Mixing old with new

Vienne €167,400

Ref: A14369 - Character 4 bedroom property in a rural village, within striking distance of town with amenities.

8% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: Ongoing

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Lovely Longère

Vienne €109,998

Ref: A12880 - 2 Bedroom country cottage with room to grow, large garden and panoramic views.

10% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

Energy class: E Climate class: E

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Cute and Cosy

Vienne €130,000

Ref: A14109 - Nice 1 bedroom stone property perfect as a holiday home.

Agency fees paid by the seller.

Energy class: E Climate class: B

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Beautiful Setting

Haute-Vienne €172,800

Ref: A14792 - 3/4 Bedroom, detached house with large gardens, woodland and stone cottage/barn for storage

8% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: Ongoing

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE YOU CAN TRUST

We have helped 1000’s of clients buy and sell property in France and have 10,000+ properties listed on our website. If you are looking to sell, contact us for a FREE market appraisal.

Very Spacious

Haute-Vienne €109,000

Ref: A13831 - Lovely 3 bedroom house with a large garden, fully fitted basement and outbuilding.

9% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: G Climate class: E

Haute-Vienne €224,700

Ref: 115300 - Superb 3 bedroom stone house with separate house, outbuildings and garage.

7% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: E Climate class: A

Deux-Sèvres €71,600

Ref: 120333 - 2 Bedroom house with a large barn and an easy to maintain garden.

10% agency fees included paid by the buyer.

DPE: No data

Deux-Sèvres €294,250

Ref: A09386 - Large 7 bedroom property with attached apartment and a beautiful swimming pool.

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Deux-Sèvres €136,250

Ref: A13177 - Traditional village house with 3 bedrooms and beautiful garden.

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Deux-Sèvres €114,450

Ref: A11700 - Charming 3 bedroom house in need of updating, with large outbuildings in good condition.

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Two for the price of one!

Haute-Vienne €139,791

Ref: A11597 - Two fantastic country houses with garden, BBQ area and large piece of attached land.

9% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: E Climate class: B

Deux-Sèvres €194,400

Ref: A13649 - Attractive 3 bedroom house with garden. Rural location with lovely views and amenities nearby.

8% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: E Climate class: D

Deux-Sèvres €104,500

Ref: A11073 - Large 3 bedroom house with exposed stonework and a large plot of land.

10% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Energy class: C Climate class: A

With over 24 year’s experience buying and selling houses in France, we’re here to help you. Our agents offer a knowledgeable and professional service, guiding you through the whole process from A to Z.

Changing Places

The riverside town of Usson-duPoitou in southern Vienne can trace its origins to a Gallic tribe who constructed several dolmens locally, while Mérovingian sarcophagi from 6/7th century have also been discovered around the church. Much later, the once powerful province of le Poitou was wiped from the administrative map of France when post-Révolution planners replaced it with the new départements of la Vienne, les Deux-Sèvres and la Vendée, but they could not have known that its memory and sense of identity would not be quite so easily erased. In 1793, for example, when the levée en masse set about recruiting 300,000 fit men aged 25–30 to serve in the French army (not always voluntarily) it prompted local resentment and widespread rioting, which soon escalated into a bloody civil war known as la Guerre de Vendée. While geographically on the margins, Usson did not escape the more widespread turmoil, two local men being tried and executed in Poitiers for insurrection later that same year. Eventually the commune would again be divided by outside events, this time during WWII when it found itself straddling

the Ligne de Démarcation, with half the commune under German occupation. Today visitors are encouraged to take a leisurely stroll and discover the town’s surviving historic features by following a circuit which includes the banks of the Clouere river, now a tranquil beauty spot but which was once the scene of intense activity, with eight water mills. Nearby lie more features missed entirely by anyone merely passing through, including the dazzling, lovingly tended floral displays which erupt each summer in Rue de l’Épicerie. Also hidden away in the heart of the town is the Cité Pluvillière, whose streets were planned by one Joseph Blondet de Pluvillière. Having laid out building plots, he sold them for a modest fee to skilled craftsmen and artisans to construct comfortable homes for their families, using quality materials and following rules designed to produce results which would be harmonious, comfortable for their occupants and built to last. As expected, the visionary experiment succeeded in encouraging workers with traditional skills to settle in the town.

Craftsmanship of a different kind

We visit an unassuming town with echoes of an eventful past

created the sculpted decoration adorning the western façade of the Monument Historique-listed Église Saint-Pierre, which was fortified during the Hundred Years War. Inside you’ll find some later Gothic touches, but otherwise it’s a 11/12th century Romanesque showcase. Today the town which developed around it shows signs of a modest economic revival, and now possesses a modern SPAR minimarket, a stylish boulangerie, banking, two friendly bars and more.

making COnneCTiOnS

DiSTanCeS/Drive-TimeS by rOaD frOm

86350 USSOn-DU-POiTOU:

L’isle-Jourdain 15min/14km

Confolens: 34km/33min

Chauvigny: 37km/44min

montmorillon: 37km/41min

Poitiers: 42km/49min

Limoges 91km/1hr 21min

angoulême: 93km/1hr 19min

Tgv & Ter raiL ServiCeS: la Gare sNcF d’anché-Voulon (28km) is served by TeR Nouvelle-aquitaine ligne Régionale 12 services between angoulême & Poitiers, for connections including TGV to Niort, Périgueux, Bayonne, Toulouse, Tours, Paris, etc.

(165 000€ + 8% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34395

AVAILLES LIMOUZINE (86): Stunning 3-bed house on riverbank. Adjoining 5810m2 and with shed and 2780m2 opposite with pontoon. Classe Energie G Classe Climate G

259 200€ HAI

(240 000€ + 8% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34402

HIESSE (16): Traditional 4-bed farmhouse with 29ha and agricultural buildings. Cellar, wood central heating. 2 barns, sheepfold, well, ponds. Classe Energie G Classe Climate C

108 000€ HAI

(100,000€ + 8% fee payable by buyer)

ROUMAZIÈRES-LOUBERT (16). Town centre 3-bed bungalow with basement. Pretty, sunny SW facing terrace. Set on approx. 2806m2

Ref. 34408

CONFOLENS (16). Town centre, 50m to market. Investment opportunity: flat above commercial shop with courtyard. Elec heating, mains. Classe Energie E Classe Climate E

Ref: 10094-MO - Location: Villereal - Price: 472,500€

Traditional collection of stone buildings offering a large house, stone barn and a hangar. Ideally located in the countryside, on 22 hectares of meadow land, the house offers a living room with an open stone fireplace, separate kitchen, dining room, a snug and 4 bedrooms.

Ref: 10218-EY - Location: Duras - Price: 840,000€

An elegant renovation of a 19th century stone country house, situated at the edge of a small commune. The property consists of a beautiful living room /dining room with stone fireplace, fitted kitchen, 2nd dining room and 4 ensuite bedrooms. Outside there is a swimming pool, a barn and several outdoor dining areas to enjoy the stunning views.

Taux d’honoraires 40,000€ (5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: E Classe Climat: E

800€

Ref. 34407

CONFOLENS (16). Exceptional view over the Vienne. Building for commercial (shop & terrace) and residential (4-bed) use.

Ref. 34411

(110 000€ +8% fee payable by buyer) ABZAC (16). 5-bed semi-detached house dating from 1683, needs refreshing. Garden, workshops. Set on 1134m2 Classe Energie n/a Classe Climate n/a

3, place de la Liberté, 16500 Confolens Tel: 05 45 85 45 65 contact@sovimo.com

www.sovimo-immobilier-confolens.fr

La Foncière Charentaise

THE FRIENDLY FACE OF PROPERTIES IN S/W FRANCE

Prix 190,800 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.)

Fully renovated 3-bed Charentaise property offering a large living room with open fitted kitchen, utility room, and office. Enclosed courtyard garden , in village nr Aigre Ref: 9697 DPE: C

Prix 220,000 € (Fees paid by buyer incl.)

In a unique setting in a village with shops and views over the countryside, 3-bed bungalow with veranda, terrace and large garden with swimming pool. One to view! Ref: 9699 DPE: C

Prix 117,700 €

(Fees paid by buyer incl.)

Come and visit this XVII-XII century house in its original state with outbuildings and 900m² garden.

In a historical village with basic commodities, just 10 minutes from the market town of Aigre.

Ref: 6768 DPE: C

We are always looking for new quality properties! Please get in touch!

Ref: 10000-STC - Location: Le Buisson de Cadouin - Price: 572,000€

Maison du Maitre situated a few steps from the centre of a village with all amenities. This superb property features a large living/dining room, separate kitchen, 7 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. A separate private annex has living room, kitchen, double bedroom and shower room. To the rear of the property there is a driveway and a double garage.

Taux d’honoraires 27,000€ (4.95%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: E Classe Climat: E

Character Properties in France

L’Isle Jourdain, Vienne €127,000* Countryside views, a 3 minute flat walk to the main square, 4 bedrooms plus study, aboveground pool, 3-car garage, mains drains. DPE: G

Lessac, Charente €430,000* Hunting / fishing estate, 32 hectares fenced, largest lake 3 hectares, 20 hectares woodland (31 more available), house to renovate, barn.

DPE: non soumis

L’Isle Jourdain, Vienne €65,000* Habitable stone house to renovate, roof with mechanical tiles, great view, two bedroom, attached garden, parking, mains drains.

DPE: non soumis

Saint Auvent, Haute Vienne €132,000* Exposed beams, lovely kitchen, back-boiler central heating, 2-bed/2-bath, double-glazed, modern electrics/fosse, attached garden, barn. DPE:

in the garden

Flights of Fancy

A little imagination combined with a knowledge of available options can help you make your plot accessible all year round. Richard Wiles shows how...

Aflight of steps not only provides practical access to the various parts of a split-level or sloping garden, but also helps visually to link the separate areas, giving the garden a feeling of unity. There are essentially two main types: a free-standing flight is used to scale from lower ground level to a higher, terraced area, such as a raised lawn or patio in a formal plot; cut-in steps allow passage through a sloping garden, while retaining the overall profile of the ground by using the bank itself as the foundations.

Step Stylistics

The type of materials you use should complement the overall style of the garden. Free-standing steps made from rectangular brick (brique) walls topped with concrete slab (dalle) treads, for example, are generally more suited to a neat, formal garden. Rough-faced stones or reconstituted stone walling blocks with split stone faces (bloc muret en pierre reconstituée) will give a softer look while still providing a solid-looking structure.

Step treads can be stone or concrete slabs, although they should be slipresistant, for example with a rough

riven surface, or with a gritty facing. Optionally, ceramic or terracotta tiles (carreaux céramique/de terre cuite) are attractive and practical, again so long as the surface is not high gloss. Decorative ceramic tiles used to face the risers can look exotic and add a touch of colour and pattern.

Reclaimed railway sleepers (traverses de chemin de fer), or their modern equivalents (traverses pin traité), can be used as the combined tread-and-riser on a free-standing flight, backfilled with slabs, bricks or gravel (gravier) forming the main part of the tread.

gentle amble

Sleepers, or even round or split logs (bûches), are also great when used to create a staircase that ambles up a gradual slope in a wild style or rustic garden, and can even incorporate gentle curves or distinct changes in direction – a zig-zag format is the least-exhaustive way to scale a high slope, as evidenced by mountain roads with hairpin bends!

The logs or sleepers can be held in place with stout wooden stakes driven into the ground at each side. If the ground is firm enough, simply leave the ‘treads’ as they are, or else

Clockwise from top left:

A flight of steps wends its way up a steep bank, the treads formed by irregularly shaped stone slabs to create an effect that blends into the topography. Lush planting at each side, and creeping across the steps themselves, completes this sylvan theme.

Broad, formal steps negotiate a multiple-level climb, where stone slabs form the treads, with riven-faced nosings defining the shape of the steps in shadow. Sturdy side walls are constructed with a dry-stone effect, softened by trailing plants.

Reclaimed railway sleepers make a sturdy and long-lasting set of steps, simply laid directly on the cut out and firmed earth, with beach pebbles as the tread surface.

Following the shape of the bank, the rough shape of the steps have been cut, with logs forming the risers held in place by stakes driven into the ground at each side.

An informal, gradual rise through a grassy bank created by stone slabs cut into the earth, firmed beneath with well-rammed gravel.

Measuring a Slope

So that you can determine how many steps you’ll need to reach the higher level, it’s necessary to take the time to measure accurately.

For comfortable, safe walking the steps should be uniform in size, neither too shallow nor too steep. The risers (the vertical faces of the steps) should be between 100mm and 175mm high. The treads (the horizontal part of the step on which you walk) should be not less than 300mm from front to back, which is sufficient to take the ball of your foot on descending without the back of your leg making contact with the step above. The treads should be about 600mm wide for one person, 1.5m for two. The tread should incorporate a ‘nosing’ – the front protruding beyond the riser by 25mm, so that the shape of the step is defined in shadow.

To calculate the number of steps you will need, measure the vertical height you want to scale and then divide this figure by the height of a single riser.

To measure the height, drive a cane or batten into the ground at the base of the slope or terrace, then stretch a stringline from this to a peg driven into the ground at the top of the slope or terrace. Use a spirit level to set the stringline horizontal, then measure the height from the bottom of the cane to the string. For example, a vertical height of 900mm would require six 150mm high steps.

backfill behind the risers with gravel, broken slate shards (paillage d’ardoise lavées) or pine bark (écorce de pin maritime), materials commonly used as a mulch.

You could also plant the treads with a mat-forming plant such as chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), which would create a romantic scented ‘carpet’ as you climb, although this is really only practical for infrequent foot traffic. Alternatively, simply sow grass or lay turf.

Consider creating a cut-in stairway with rectangular dressed stone or preformed paving blocks forming the nosing-and-riser with small square paving setts (pavés) or interlocking pavers (pavés autobloquant en béton) bedded in sand behind to form the tread.

Breathing Space

If the steps are to traverse a particularly steep slope, you’d be wise to incorporate a landing a quarter or half-way up to give a welcome area for those making the climb to catch their breath – or to admire an interesting viewpoint. Particularly high steps should also incorporate a railing on one or both sides. The railing can be wooden, metal, or even tough rope strung between posts.

Although a flight of cut-in steps makes use of the structure of the bank as its main support, it’s sensible to allow for concrete ‘footings’ below the first riser to prevent the risk of the flight slipping downwards. The footings can be a simple slab of concrete about 75mm thick laid on hardcore (broken bricks or stones)

STUMP GRINDING

Dessouchage David Cropper

Château Jarno Pépinière

Huge selection of herbaceous, annuals, fruit, shrubs, trees, climbers and roses (including David Austin). We offer competitive prices as well as our knowledge from more than 40 years in horticulture.

“if your garden steps are part of the main thoroughfare to your house, you’ll need to consider lighting to show the way at night.”

twice as wide as the step.

If you have a stock of rough building stone, why not create a simple ‘stepping-stone’ stairway (pas japonais) by partially burying them in a bank so they provide one-person access, perhaps passing under an arch leading to a hidden pathway, lending a feel of mystery? For solidity, such stepping stones should be considered like an iceberg, with a substantial mass buried underground for stability.

Softening the effect

Think about the planting at each side of the steps, blurring the regularity of the flight with shrubs or trailing plants that soften the edges. Likewise, pots of plants or decorative garden objects placed on occasional steps can look intriguing and stylish – but in both cases, take care not to create a trip hazard.

If your garden steps are part of the main thoroughfare to your house, you’ll need to consider lighting to show the way at night. Illuminated bollards (bornes or potelets extérieur) set at each

side will give good, safe lighting when negotiating the steps, and can be hard-wired into your electrical system or solar powered. Other options include garland

lighting (guirlande lumineuse), strategically placed lamp posts (lampadaires), or dedicated terrace and pathway lighting (éclairage terrace et allées).

Clockwise from top left: Contemporary and stylish, a stepped, curved timber-framed deck clad with wooden slats and reflective aluminium facings -lighting creates a touch of drama. A cottage garden with elegant stone steps negotiating the higher level, flanked by stone walls. Terracotta tiles form the treads, with patterned glazed tiles cladding the risers, and pots of plants placed on occasional steps for a decorative touch.

Step-by-Step

In France you can buy garden step kits in wood (search for escalier de jardin en kit, bois for various suppliers). Decklinea’s escalier d’extérieur kits, for example, are a great solution for providing access to a raised terrace, and can be adapted to different configurations, both in width and height. Kits for three to fifteen steps comprise preformed side strings, the components to take treads (marches) and risers (limons). Wooden or aluminium banisters (garde-corps) can be attached for a classic or more contemporary style. Check out deck-linea.com.

Another neat idea is step modules made of tough UV-resistant polypropylene (module pour marche d’escalier, polypropylène), which obviate the need for heavy earthworks. Working from the base, the angled modules are stacked one on top of the other as you work up the slope, and can be customised with a cladding of wood, ceramic tiles, or slabs. Different configurations are possible: straight, curved, with or without a landing, on slopes up to 70%. Check out marche d’escalier Modulesca on Leroy Merlin’s

Homes and gardens writer Richard Wiles began his life in France renovating a Limousin barn in the late 1990s before moving to the Lot. He has published two comprehensive English/French dictionaries, the first covering French Tools & Materials and, just released, French Gardening Terms. Both would make ideal Christmas presents and are available from Amazon. Check out Richard’s Facebook page for more details: @LaSourceBooks.

Clockwise from top left

A mysterious ‘secret’ pathway accessed by sturdy stone blocks creating a simple stairway.

An elegant free-standing flight accessing levels of the property, plain white treads accentuated by russet masonry and metal railings in a distinctly Italianate style. Rustic stone steps follow a gentle slope, with rectangular stone nosings and broad treads laid with stone setts.

puzzle answers

Theme: Towns

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La Brousse, 16700 Londigny tel; 05 45 29 05 07 www.aubergedunoyer.com

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All Day Friday: fish & chips, scampi too - 10€ (full menu also available) Mon-Sat 12-3, 6-11pm | Roast every Sunday: 12-3pm | Chambre d’hôtes

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Friendly English-speaking staff in a cosy atmosphere! 14, rue de l’hôtel de ville, 17400 Saint-Jean d’Angély Beside the market square. Phone: 09-83-72-34-90

Insurance and asset management advice in English

Hello, my name is Isabelle Want. For the past 9 years, I have been working for Allianz as an asset manager. Being married to an Englishman and having lived in the UK for 8 years gives me a better insight into what British people are experiencing and what they need. Being French and born in the Charente has enabled me to offer some answers.

I am, as always, available for any free advice on the following subjects:

- INHERITANCE LAW - who inherits, how much are death duties, what solutions exist

- TAXES - everybody’s fear! Annual tax forms in May, etc.

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We also have a dedicated bilingual person to deal with claims. And, finally, we have an English website with all sorts of useful information and tips on all of the above subjects.

LIME TREE KENNELS

For those of you that don't already know us, we are a purpose-built kennels with a large secure paddock area where dogs can run free and play while having their 2 walks per day on or off the lead. Large family kennels are available. You are welcome to call if you have any questions or would like to visit the kennels.

Alcoholics

Freemasons

HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME

It would be fair to say that most of us have spent much more time this year at home than normal....and for many of us the enforced lockdown gave us the opportunity to give our homes a little TLC.

We ourselves did plenty of painting & decorating, especially during the early weeks, and decided to use strong, bold colours - not our normal style but perhaps it was a reaction to the situation we were in....an unconscious decision to lift the spirits!

We are slowly seeing some more colour coming back into carpets too....not everything has to be grey or beige!

Look at these 2 of our suppliers – Adam Carpets & Westex Carpets – literally hundreds of colours across their ranges, all available anywhere in France. If you want to see samples of these, or any other examples, give us a call and we’ll make a free, no obligation visit.

Makes yours a HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME this year!

ARC EN CIEL

Nettoyage Professionnel

www.nettoyage-services-dordogne.fr

PROFESSIONAL CLEANING & HYGIENE SERVICES

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Office: 05 53 07 52 71 (9 to 18.00)

Mobile: 06 31 31 06 76 / 06 70 39 83 96 arcencielnettoyage24@gmail.com

Siret: 813 442 860 00017

L’Atelier de Fer

Fraser W. Eade

General Engineering Turning, Milling, Welding Quality & Precision

Guaranteed Forgeix, 87200 Saint Junien 05 55 71 41 75 frasereade87@gmail.com www.latelierdefer.com Siret: 512 945 874

Jeff’s Metalwork E I www.jeffsmetalwork.com

WELDING & ENGINEERING SERVICES

PROJECT MANAGEMENT

City & Guilds Mechanical Engineer Design & manufacture of gates railings etc

On site welding service / repairs Emergency call out service

Ornate interior / exterior designs

Gates constructed / refurbished Industrial furniture

General Welding ~ Over 25 year’s experience ~ Mob: 07 77 83 77 10 or 0044 7917 03 02 49 jeff@jeffsmetalwork.com

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SAS Ornate Ironworks Vaudrude, Corgnac Sur L'isle 24800 E: ornate.ironworks@gmail.com

www.ornate-ironworks.com

Enershop have been installing renewable energy systems in France since 2008. Each system designed and installed is specifically for your needs, whether your property is a new

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hold the QualiSol and QualiBois accreditation. Our website www.enershop.eu has lots of information on our services which include :

• Solar thermal domestic hot water

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A ordable UK Designs

SOUTH WEST FRANCE - OTHER AREAS BY

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ID Planning & Design

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A1SL COUVERTURE is a new French based company serving dept. 79, 86, 16, 17, 87, 85, 24 & 33 with well-established roofing experience previously based in the UK. We pride ourselves on top quality workmanship and excellent customer service. We have built a solid reputation over 25 years in the UK and receive most of our work from customer recommendations.

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All work is fully guaranteed and we are fully insured. Our services are available 6 days a week, no-obligation free estimate and no call-out fee up to 70km.

Pard on?

Back at school in the 80s, the ecosystem and climate change was a common point of discussion as I learned French. I remember one A-level class talking about vandalism and graffiti around Paris and another studying an article about the sinking of Greenpeace’s Rainbow Warrior. Sadly, little seems to have changed. The scandal surrounding the French government’s actions, at first morally outrageous in itself and then subject to an ineffective cover-up that contributed to international tensions now sadly seems to be a common theme in politics. Plus ça change…

That little expression Plus ça change, plus ça reste la même … so effective in French that many English speakers use it without translation, is taken from Alphonse Karr’s 1849 satirical periodical of Les Guêpes. I’m sure the author would be disappointed to realise that, almost two hundred years on, things remain the same. Everything comes full circle in the end.

As the climate crisis evolves, we find that vocabulary emerges to help us describe what’s happening in the world. We also find ourselves taking words from the past. Take the French for firefighter: un sapeur-pompier. I’m sure few of us have really thought about why French firefighters are ‘trenchdiggers/pumpers’. I mean, the ‘pumper’ bit I get, what with all the pumps, but trench diggers? Trench digging is an inexact interpretation of exactly what les sapeurs did in battle, as you’ll see.

If you’re from the UK or a Commonwealth country, you may well have come across the word ‘sapper’ in a military sense. This, of course, comes from the French. The French army used two types of engineers in warfare: the trench diggers and the miners.

The sapeurs dug demolition trenches to undermine foundations, bringing down bridges in the same way, and the mineurs dug open trenches to disrupt transport and movement. In true French style, having donated the word sapeur to the Anglophones, they then changed the title of their sapeurs to pionniers in the French Foreign Legion, then relegated them further to a ceremonial role wearing buffalo leather aprons and carrying axes in processions along with the mandatory beard. Apart from the vestigial phrase fumer comme un sapeur, the fire brigade is perhaps the only place we might hear the word sapeur. Fumer comme un sapeur is probably best translated into English as ‘smoking like a chimney’. In terms of similes using long-extinct jobs, smoking like a sapper is probably a little like our British expression of ‘swearing like a navvy’ - ironic that these two long-dead engineering roles have become associated with vices. Perhaps even more ironic is the fact that Australian railway workers are sometimes known as navvies still, a job that used to be known as un mineur in France on the chemin de fer. Everything gets recycled eventually.

Is it time that you improved your French?

Emma-Jane Lee explores some of the language emerging around climate change

Forest fires are perhaps more likely during la sécheresse or drought, and most notably during les canicules Although we’d more likely call une canicule a heatwave’ in English (and you can, of course, say une vague de chaleur in French… ) I kind of prefer the more accurate translation of ‘dog days.’ The dog days of early August, when the Dog Star Sirius rises, were known for lethargy, fever and madness. In Ancient Greece, the dog days predicted the flooding of the Nile.

Flooding is another change expected to become more frequent, and therefore more likely to come into our everyday conversation. It’s normally English that has two words where there is only one in French, but French gives us les inondations and les crues. Where we have flash floods, the French haven’t yet settled on one single term, with crues soudaines and crues brutales in popular use. To be fair, une crue is more accurately ‘a rising’, coming from the Latin cresco and crescere, still used in modern Italian to mean ‘growing’ or ‘rising’ as in crescendo and crescent. English being what it is, we still have ‘decrease’, to get smaller and ‘increase’, to get bigger, but no ‘crease’ without a prefix. In the theme of things coming full circle, cresco also gives us the English word ‘crew’, where you would quite likely find your firefighters and navvies… Although I’m not sure the ancient Egyptians watching Canis Majoris rise in the sky would recognise our modern world, I’m quite sure they’d share our sense of foreboding about the dog days of summer. Plus ça change, after all.

Emmaisajack-of-all-language-trades, writingEnglishtextbooks,translating, markingexamscriptsandteaching languages.Seeenglish-tuition.weebly.com

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Want to know more? Contact Tina Anderson, Head of Recruitment tina.anderson@beauxvillages.com