Amsterdam Magazine no 4 - December 2010 by Amsterdam Magazine

€4.95

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

m a g a z i n e

Terrorists’ lawyer by week Party animal at the weekend! Made in Holland

‘This time we blew it’

What lies

amsterdam?

And: The Golden Keys - Pimp my Bike - Word on the Street - Expo - The Hermitage - Conscious Hotel - Magnified Fashion - Mazzo’s Comeback - Captured - Upcoming - Framed! - Cocktails - and more...

ee in Cit si y de Ma ! p

Win Free Tickets!

featured What lies beneath amsterdam? 42 Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going deeper underground

interview 22 26 58

Meet the Dutch: Victor Koppe Word on the street import / export: Hanggai & JB Meijers

reportage 30 54 62 85

Knock Knock getting around: Utrecht pimp my bike: Lisa Smidt gets creative the golden keys: Tips from the experts

reviewed 40 53 87 78

amsterdam eats: Mazzo magnified: Mendo museum check: Hermitage Amsterdam Sleeps: Conscious Hotel Vondelpark

Column 89 98

Sex and de Stad Framed: by Thomas Schlijper

Fashion 34

Bonsai Delight

ART 16 49

Made in holland Expo: Tanzania Dream

the guide 66 74 83

Best of Amsterdam Dutch A-Z Free City Map

the regular 8 10 12

letter from the editor spamsterdam heads-up: News from the city

more... 18 21 80 90 93

54 6

Amsterdam

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The Ten: Best Christmas Markets dutch treat amsterdam cocktail captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be missed

Letter from the Editor With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV [map 01-e6] Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine

Me at Boom Chicago

Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Contributors Wieke Braat, Morgan Currie, Vincent van Dijk, Michiel Döbelman, Allison Guy, Tommy Hagen, Ilja Keizer, Blair Larkin, Guido Makor, Mike Peek, Thomas Schlijper, Marieke Verhoeven, Eva van Wijngaarden, Lauren Wissot, Helen Worswick Special thanks to Annett, J.B Meijers, Mac Bike, Arnoud Eweg, Evelyn, Johan van Beest, Nicole van Hasselt, Hanggai, Jet den Heeten/ Stock Interiors, Meijken van der Heijden, Tiny Hofstee, Frederick Jensen, Juan, Jameela Cover: Mohamed Amrani (www.amraniphoto.com) Share it! If you have a story to tell or a picture to share, contact us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com and tell us all about it! Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690.

ever tell a girl she’s old, unless you call her wise in the same sentence. I forgave the publisher for doing so (never bite the hand that feeds you) but that night I was secretly counting my wrinkles. Finally I went to sleep with one happy

thought on my mind: at least I’m wise. Then reality caught up with me. Or should I say the Boom Chicago equivalent of Sinterklaas did. For those of you who have never heard of the phenomenon Sinterklaas, this is how they informed their somewhat touristy audience: ‘Sinterklaas is the skinnier and more religious brother of Santa Claus and the opponent of the Dutch prime minister Mark Rutte, who is also known as the Anti-Sinterklaas because he loves to economise (starting with the cutting of the culture budget that’s causing an international riot at this very moment).’ Since Sinterklaas has so many different faces, Boom Chicago decided to add one more: the Ninja Man. As you might understand, sitting on stage next to Ninja Man who was making a fool out of me, I didn’t feel so wise anymore. Suddenly it occurred to me: old doesn’t necessarily mean wise, just like pretty doesn’t necessarily mean perfect, and the same goes for our beloved city. That got me wondering: what lies beneath the Unesco-awarded surface? Our special reporter Mike Peek literally went undercover and discovered a slurry pit that drags the

Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com.

city into bankruptcy! (You can read all about in on page 42.)

Printed at Senefelder Misset BV

other way around - a criminal defence lawyer who helps the biggest scum on earth isn’t

Distributed for free in the Netherlands

necessarily scum himself. It’s all just a matter of interpretation.

On the positive side: if all appearances are indeed deceptive, fortunately it also works the

--------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2010. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.

Amsterdam

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Have a good Sinterklaas, Christmas and New Year’s Eve!

Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief

spamsterdam

Sp@msterdam What you shared with us...

What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...

From: Mircea Mare Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 21:23:27 +01:00 Subject: What’s up Amsterdam Magazine? To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Hoi! I discovered your lovely magazine during Museumnacht. And it’s awesome. And thanks for the nice map. I am student and have

From: Renata Linhares Date: Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 4:16 PM Subject: I’m in love To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com

been here for around 3 months. Most of the

The purse for a woman is serious

looking for.

business. In my purse I cannot be without my camera, lipstick and Amsterdam Magazine. Love, love, love. This magazine became my bible. Interesting stories and wonderful design. I’ve been living in Amsterdam since September and already love this city, its colours, flavours and fun. I have a blog: The Adventures of Geraldine (www.iamsterdam.com.br). Geraldine is my bike and loves to follow tips from Amsterdam Magazine. Always looking for some adventure and stories to tell! Renata Linhares

win win win Next month we’ll read through all the spam and select one Email of the month so get creative with your words, maybe even attach a picture of your stay in amsterdam, or bribe us with oliebollen... Email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com for the chance to win great prizes!

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printed material about Amsterdam is aimed entirely at tourists. These were interesting in the beginning but I needed something new. And Amsterdam Magazine was what I was

Discovering Amsterdam Magazine_Beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed_should be a natural process for everyone. Simply because there’s just so much to discover. Also, I tried the bitterballen recipe. They turned out awesome. I’m attaching some pictures. And I also a picture of a nice sunset seen from Uilenstede a couple of weeks ago. Tot ziens! Mircea

spamsterdam

Heleen Wijn-Arends: Thanks for the tickets for the Hermitage. I’ve been there today with my father. Loved it! Vincent van Dijk: I found the brand new issue of Amsterdam Magazine even in the 1-star hotel-slash-snackbar Stern, today! It’s everywhere! Isabel Luvs Michael: Hello Amsterdam Magazine and friends! Long shot but I’m wondering if anyone has October’s Issue of Amsterdam Magazine that they are willing to part with?!! Feel free to message me if you do. I can pick up in De Baarsjes area to Central Amsterdam area. Isabel Matthew Baks: ik wil graag met jullie samenwerken is echt nodig nu... (I really want to work with you guys. It’s necessary!)

Adam Rakich: Thanks for the Hermitage tickets, can’t argue with your promptness :) The C Amsterdam: congrats to Mike Peek and his piece on the squatting ban in your november edition! Great read for some history and facts!

get social! & win! When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways! A preview of what we’ll give away this month: - Tickets to Artis Royal Zoo - Tickets to Hermitage museum - Tickets to Rijksmuseum And more!

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/amsterdammag

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We have a winner! December’s ‘email of the month’ award goes to Mircea Mare. She’ll receive a copy of Ndoto – Tanzania Dream a photo-book by Aernout Overbeeke. When he was 12 years old, Overbeeke dreamt of travelling the world. At that time foreign countries seemed far away and difficult to reach. Now the world has become a village and many places start to look alike. ‘That’s the tragic way of progress,’ Overbeeke says. ‘You have to capture the old before it vanishes.’ In his book Ndoto – Tanzania Dream he did just that. Want to own this book? Buy it at Eduard Planting Gallery (€150). You’ll find more pictures and info on page 49 (Expo: Eduard Planting.)

heads-up

Heads-up; from the city

by eva van wijngaarden

Writer Harry Mulisch passes away Harry Mulisch, one of Holland’s greatest writers, passed away on 30 October. His books and stories were translated into dozens of languages. He was nationally and internationally recognised as a Nobel Prize-worthy writer, but never received one. ‘It’s a casino,’ he once said. ‘You can reward the best physicist or the best economist, but the best writer doesn’t exist.’ His magnum opus is The Discovery of Heaven. This novel, as thick as a fist, was named best Dutch book of all time in 2007 and was made into an English-language film in 2001. Source: NOS

photo: Paul Levitton

Eating grasshoppers & 10 holy miracles

Walking on the water of the canals and turning water into wine. These were just two of the ten ‘miracles’ organised for visitors to the Bible Museum. It was all part of a special programme for the eleventh annual Museumnacht (Museum Night). Never before was this night so successful. Forty-five museums opened their doors and the 26,000 tickets available sold out in no time. The participating museums opened from 7pm till 2am. One of the most popular events among the Museumnacht visitors was grasshopper-eating at the Hortus Botanicus. Next year’s event will take photo: n8 place on 5 November. Source: N8.nl photo: n8

Arrival of a holy man Sinterklaas and his Zwarte Pieten are back. The friend of all Dutch children arrived on his steamship in Amsterdam on 14 November. His boat journey ended at the National Maritime Museum, and the parade continued on foot through the city centre. Finally the holy man greeted all the spectators at Leidseplein. In a tradition that’s centuries old, gifts and poems are exchanged on Saint Nicholas’s birthday on 5 December. Every year the same story is told: those who have been good are rewarded with sweets and gifts, but those who have been bad will be taken on Sinterklaas’s boat back to Spain. Source: AT5

Amsterdam

More sharks for Artis Seven horn sharks were born at Artis Zoo. This was a particularly special event, since horn shark eggs don’t hatch all by themselves. In the wild, the tide rubs the eggs against the sand on the seabed and slowly erodes the shell; either that, or the slime from sea snails gradually dissolves it. In an aquarium there’s neither tide nor snails. The shell remains too thick for the tiny sharks to split. Artis Zoo found a solution: caring staff delicately peeled away the shells…so, right now you can see these tiny sharks swimming around in the aquarium. Source: Artis photo: Ronals van Weeren

magazine

Parking hell Parking in Amsterdam is a stressful and unpleasant experience. That’s the verdict of 86 per cent of the people who recently completed a survey about parking in Holland. One thousand people took part, and Amsterdam didn’t do well. In fact, it was named the most stressful of all Dutch cities when it comes to parking. Not only can it be difficult to find a parking space, paying at the meter can bring its own set of problems. It’s not a matter of coins and withdrawing a parking ticket anymore. At the new meters the licence plate has to be entered – a problem since almost half of those questioned couldn’t recall their own registration number. The local government has taken steps. In the city centre most of the parking meters have been replaced with touch-screen meters. Other districts might follow suit. Source: Parool

Exclusive marijuana Amsterdam’s coffeeshops are a popular tourist attraction – many people visit the city to smoke marijuana legally. But this might soon come to an end. The Dutch government has announced plans to introduce a personalised card system for those wishing to enter coffeeshops. The government wants them to become closed clubs, with only Dutch residents over the age of 18 allowed in. The local government of Amsterdam strongly opposes these plans. While drug-tourists might cause problems in border towns in the Netherlands, Amsterdam experiences very little problems with them. Those who oppose the idea say that a card system will encourage the illegal sale of marijuana in the streets – causing even more problems for the city. Source: Parool

heads-up

Lady Gaga revealed Eight cities…eight secret looks. Lady Gaga has eight wax sculpture duplicates. One of these sculptures is soon to be revealed in Amsterdam’s Madame Tussauds. But which one? We know that one of the eight depicts Lady Gaga in a black bodysuit with platinum-coloured hair, better known as the ‘Harlequin’. Another recreates her look from the Brit Awards 2010: the ‘Laced Lady’. This Marie Antoinette-inspired look features a lace body stocking and a mask. Maybe her waxwork will be decked out in her trademark kinky boots, or an extraordinary hair dress? So which is it? All will be revealed on 9 December! Source: ANP

DNA-spray: stay away!

It’s good in Amsterdam

Burglars will now think twice before robbing a shop in Amsterdam. Shop owners can ask for a subsidy to install a DNA-spray. The device, piloted in the Amsterdam-Zuid (south) district, is installed above a shop’s entrance, and releases an invisible spray when an intruder leaves the premises. The liquid, which is difficult to wash off, might be invisible to the naked eye, but it shows up under UV-light. It’s an ingenious and simple tool that helps police easily identify offenders.

According to a publication about ‘internationals’ by Ernst & Young, Amsterdam is an increasingly popular choice for expats and foreign students (mostly from the USA, Great Britain and Germany) who love to stick around after graduation. The active lifestyle (thanks to the popularity of cycling), Amsterdam’s broad range of cultural offerings and the focus on a healthy work/life balance are some of the aspects that make the city so popular. But according to the report, many believe there’s room for improvement – particularly in the lack of affordable apartments and the expensive taxis.

Source: ANP

Amsterdam through your iPhone Discover Amsterdam with urban augmented reality, a unique app for the iPhone created by the Netherlands Architecture Institute. This application shows you an alternative design of a building in front of you. How does this work? The app adds virtual images to the camera on your mobile phone. Standing in front of a building, you can see a projection of another design of that same building. For example: architect Pierre Cuypers designed the Rijksmuseum. Standing in front of the museum, the app shows the alternative design by Lucas Eberson. It gives you insight into how the city of Amsterdam looked in the past or will look like in the future. To download the app visit: www.nai.nl/uar photo: NAI

Amsterdam

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Source: Parool

made in holland

Giant Balloon Animals By Morgan Currie

Creative Agency La Bolleur is renowned for turning a former brothel destined for demolition into a cultural hub for numerous creative iniatives, earning the eight-member multi-disciplinary team the Dutch Design Award in 2009 for inventive brand communication. According to the team, a commission by the City of Eindhoven allowed them to realise an idea that they’d been chewing on for some time: a set of balloon pets with ‘monstrous proportions that were hardly manageable’. The Giant Balloon Animals start out as massive, pliable strips of fabric that are pumped into the shape of an earthworm. It then takes acrobatics, ladders, and plenty of string to twist and bend the air-filled tubes into these familiar forms: a blue horse, a red dog and a zebra that’s twice the height of a human. The fantastically super-sized inflatables first appeared as part of an exhibition in the city centre during the summer of 2010. As La Bolleur aptly put it on their website, “This time we blew it.”

the ten

The

Best places to go

Christmas shopping!

BY: SARAH MOORE

Flower Market Looking for a Christmas tree or hoping to give flowers as gifts for Christmas this year? The Bloemenmarkt in the centre of Amsterdam offers a wide variety of winter plants that are perfect for the holiday season. The Christmas Palace, a year-round Christmas shop is also located in the market! When: Mon-Sat, 9.00-17:30, Sun 11.00-17.30 Where: Singel canal between Koningsplein and Muntplein [map e6]

Buikslotermeerplein Christmas Market Take the ferry to north Amsterdam (Amsterdam Noord) to the perfect market for Christmas shopping. On 20 December, this large market is filled with stands selling Christmas-related gifts. If the outdoor market isn’t enough, there’s also a large shopping centre nearby to check out. When: 20 December Where: Buikslotermeerplein

Winterland Christmas Market Located on Rembrandtplein, this market is great for all ages. If you’re looking for non-commercial shopping, check out the many stalls with handmade products, sculptures and Christmas decorations. Or enjoy a mulled wine, hot chocolate or dutch snacks at Cafe Winterland. When: 19 November - 2 January, open daily Where: Rembrandtplein [map f6] www.winterlandamsterdam.nl

Dordrecht Christmas Market Though this market is outside of Amsterdam, it’s Holland’s largest Christmas market and is well worth the day trip. The Dordrecht city centre is brimming with festive charm with the large church garden transformed with Christmas trees and a manger. With over 300 stalls, live music performances and a traditional nativity scene, this is the place to go for a true Christmas market experience. When: 17-19 December Where: Dordrecht, Netherlands www.kerstmarktdordrecht.nl

Amsterdam

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the ten

Albert Cuyp Christmas Fair Though it’s only open for one day, this is one of the city’s biggest Christmas markets with 300 stalls and 100 shops transforming the Albert Cuypmarkt into a giant holiday fair. For a last minute Christmas shopping spree (including Christmas trees), head over to the Albert Cuyp Christmas Fair on Sunday 19 December.

When: 19 December, 10.00-17.00 Where: Albert Cuypstraat [map e/f10] www.albertcuypmarkt.com

noordermarkt A beautiful local market in the heart of the Jordaan district. This market is perfect for Christmas shopping. On Saturdays Noordermarkt is a Farmers’ market where fresh produce, authentic Dutch cheese, and delicious traditional treats are sold. On Mondays, the market is transformed into a flea market. Antique furniture, vintage clothes, old paintings and trinkets are on offer here When: Sat 9.00-15.00, Mon 9.00-13.00 Where: Albert Cuypstraat [map d/2] www.albertcuypmarkt.com

Funky Sinterklaas Market On 5 December, celebrate Dutch Christmas (Sinterklaas) at the Funky Sinterklaas market. Located in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek in the heart of Westerpark, more than 100 booths both inside and outside offer a funky variety of handmade crafts, artwork and more. The monthly crafts market will be entirely devoted to Sinterklaas! When: 5 December, 12.00-18.00 Where: Westergasfabriek in Westerpark www.sundaymarket.nl

Museumplein Ice-skating, Christmas lights, performances and more! If you’re looking for a more picturesque Christmas market, head to Museumplein any time between 7 and 24 December. The square, surrounded by Amsterdam’s most famous museums, is adorned with beautiful lights and filled with Christmas stalls to really get you in the holiday spirit.

Funky X-Mas Market Looking for a not-so-traditional Christmas Market? The Funky X-mas Market located in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek is an annual art and design market offering unique stalls with handmade products from designers, artists, and creatives. Products such as jewellery, affordable art and kids’ design can all be found. Not in the mood to shop? Check out the ice-skating rink and stalls offering holiday treats and glühwein. When: 12 December, 12.00-18.00 Where: Westergasfabriek in Westerpark www.sundaymarket.nl

Leidseplein A smaller Christmas market featuring stalls offering delicious Dutch treats such as poffertjes, oliebollen and waffles. The market also offers a small ice-skating rink and live music performances. When: 20 November - 7 January Where: Leidseplein [map d7]

When: 7-24 December Where: Museumplein [map c/d9]

dutch treat

Dutch Treat

Oliebollen TEXT BY Allison Guy

You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried herring (raw, with onions) or salty liquorice. But what about

oliebollen?

A treasured Dutch custom, these ‘oil balls’ were traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve, although they now appear

instructions

at fairs and food stands throughout the winter. Each year, the average Dutch person will polish off eight oliebollen. That adds up to 131 million across the whole country, or enough to fill more than ten Olympic-size swimming pools. The first recipe for oliebollen appeared in the 1667 cookbook De Verstandige Kock

s Try thi ! at h o m e

(The Wise Cook). Oliebollen may originate even earlier - from ancient pagan traditions. According to one fanciful legend, the fierce goddess Perchta would terrorise households during the midwinter celebrations, slitting open the bellies of anyone who had been lazy or disobedient during the past year. Feasting on fried dough was a last-minute remedy against her wrath, rendering the eater’s skin so greasy that Perchta’s sword would slide right off. If you want to escape Perchta in style, make sure to try the best oliebollen in the Netherlands. According to the newspaper

AD and their rigorous annual Oliebollentest, Richard Visser’s stand in Rotterdam is the top contender, having won first place seven times since 1999.

dough Dissolve the yeast in the water. Mix the flour, salt and cinnamon together. Whisk the eggs and butter into the yeast mixture, and pour over the dry ingredients. ÌÌ Mix to form a batter. Stir in the raisins and apples. ÌÌ Cover the dough with a damp tea towel and let it rise for an hour, or until it’s doubled in volume. ÌÌ ÌÌ ÌÌ

ingredients For 35-40 oliebollen 1 kg all-purpose flour 1L lukewarm water 25g salt 80g yeast 2 eggs 50g melted butter 10g ground cinnamon 30g grated lemon zest Vegetable oil for frying Powdered sugar For the filling 450g raisins or currants 150g tart apple, diced

ÌÌ

ÌÌ ÌÌ

Fry Heat vegetable oil in a fryer or in a deep pan until it reaches between 180 and 190C. Use a large spoon to form balls about 9cm in diameter, and drop into the hot oil. Fry for 5 to 8 minutes or until golden brown. Make sure that the oil remains at the correct temperature, otherwise the oliebollen will come out tough and greasy. Drain the olliebollen on paper towels. Dust with generous amounts of powdered sugar before serving. Eet smakelijk!

Want to skip the baking just buy and eat one? Try one of the Oliebollen stands that can be found across the city!

meet the dutch

before is wife ing and h wedd ppe ir r Ko uise to the Victo ub Cr ing over Suppercl head on the party

Amsterdam

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meet the dutch

in the name of beauty By Mathilde Hoekstra

Most people know Victor Koppe (46) as ‘the house lawyer of terrorists’ but there are a happy few who got acquainted with him as a man that loves to celebrate life. How does that tie together? An exclusive interview!

At weekends hotshot attorney Victor Koppe loves to dance the night away. And at the crack of dawn when everybody heads home, his house - a wonderful mansion in the centre of Amsterdam - morphs into a place that his best friends facetiously like to call ‘Club Vic’. ‘People who only know me professionaly cannot imagine that I am such a fervent clubber,’ he says. No wonder. While at weekends it’s all about celebrating life together, during the week Victor is busy defending perpetrators of crimes against humanity. How does that tie up? Abuse of power ‘I was a rebellious little boy who got kicked out of class all the time. But I also became school president. This contradiction has always been in my life. It’s probably the reason I became a criminal defence lawyer in the first place: I’m functioning in a system but also opposing that same system. I am allergic to the abuse of power by states, governments, police or prosecutors.’

A bad trip Pretty big matters! ‘It can be difficult to cross-examine witnesses who have been victims of a genocide like I’m doing now in Rwanda. But in the 21 years that I’ve been doing this work I’ve learned to handle it,’ he says. So it’s no wonder that, after a week of hard work, Victor Koppe feels the urge to leave his alter ego behind and become just Victor again. At least for the weekend. And what better place is there to do that than one of Amsterdam’s many nightclubs? Sometimes he ends up having a somewhat ‘bad trip’ though. That happens when people ask him questions such as: “Aren’t you the lawyer of Samir A.?”. ‘At times like that I wish that nobody knew me,’ he admits. ‘But otherwise I’m vain enough to enjoy the attention.’ Almost famous Quite often the Dutch see Victor on TV where renowned journalists such as Pauw & Witteman and Matthijs van Nieuwkerk ask difficult questions about his job.

That doesn’t stop him from defending the Cambodian ideologist Nuon Chea who (amongst others) is being held responsible for crimes against humanity that resulted in over two million victims. And didn’t this man, referred to as Pol Pot’s ‘Brother Number Two’ do just that: abuse his power? One might almost want to lose a case on purpose.

Photo www.nicolevanhasselt.nl

Photography: Bob Bronshoff

‘Amsterdam is the city of Spinoza, Mahler and DJ Per’

Not Victor: ‘If I couldn’t stay professional at all times, I shouldn’t be doing this work.’ To him justice means that perpetrators of crimes are not only prosecuted and brought to a court of law, but that their trial is done in a fair and transparent manner, ‘no matter what crimes people are being accused of.’

Even the professionals don’t seem to understand why the biggest crooks on earth deserve an honest trial, even though it is in fact what our system demands. Victor doesn’t really seem to care too much. He himself is his most important audience and (if not working or recovering from some party) he loves to contemplate life. ‘I don’t want my life to pass without me noticing it.’ Luckily he likes what he sees: somebody who has been fascinated by international law and politics since high school, who used to read everything about the Cold War conflict and who is now reading about those same matters again, while getting paid for it! >

meet the dutch

Crazy people What more is there to wish for? Quite a lot, as it seems. In 15 years Victor hopes to be a documentary maker, own a photography gallery in Amsterdam (his house is filled with wonderful black and white images shot by the world’s top photographers), spend his summers teaching human rights law in New York and finally have finished his book on Friedrich Nietzsche and Oscar Wilde, his two heroes. ‘I already have a title. I borrowed it from Thomas Mann when he compared the two: Rebellious in the name of beauty.’ And eventually this is what Victor wants to become too.

‘At times like that I wish that nobody knew me’

Photo: ANP

Rebellious or not, about one thing Victor is absolutely certain: he will never leave his beloved Amsterdam. ‘I cannot imagine living in any other city in the world. Not even in New York, Barcelona or Berlin. Amsterdam is the natural habitat of creative, artistic and crazy people. It’s the city of Spinoza, Mahler and DJ Per, one of my favourite house DJs. And, of course, it’s the city of Rembrandt and photographer Inez van Lamsweerde, the city of gay pride, Anne Frank and beautiful girls riding their grandmother bikes alongside the canals.’

Famous clients Samir A., convicted Dutch terrorist. Wesam al Delaema, Iraqi-born Dutchman, sentenced in the United States to 25 years for conspiring to kill American soldiers in Iraq. A Dutch court reduced that sentence to 8 years.

Netherlands better known as De Hofstadgroep (whose most fanatic

Victor and his business partner

member, Mohammed B., murdered

(ed., and ex wife) Britta Böhler on

the Dutch film director, producer and writer Theo van Gogh. At the time Van Gogh was working with the Somali-

Nuon Chea aka ‘Brother Number Two’,

born Dutch activist and politician Ayaan

one of the four Cambodian leaders of

Hirsi Ali to produce the anti-Islam

the Khmer Rouge, whose trial will start

movie Submission). Victor was the

next year.

counsel for three members of De

Yvonne B., suspected of involvement in the Rwanda genocide. Dutch journalists that were spied on by the Dutch government (AIVD). Convicted Director of War of the Civil Defence Forces Moinina Fofana, suspected of war crimes and crimes against humanity.

Terror attack suspects in the

Amsterdam

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Hofstadgroep, of which the convicted terrorist Nourredin El.F. is probably the best known. Nuriye Kesbir, top leader of the Kurdish resistance organisation PKK. A Dutch court forbid her extradition to Turkey.

their way to De Hofstad-case’

word on the street

OK Not OK

By Marieke Verhoeven Photography: Sarah Moore

Word on the street

Amsterdam is often referred to as the gay capital of Europe. One of the first gay bars in the world opened here in 1927. Unfortunately, violence against gays has increased over the last couple of years. Police now advise the gay population to be careful with â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;openly gay behaviourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Amsterdam Magazine takes refuge from the winter weather and asks these international shoppers in Magna Plaza how they feel about the subject.

Amsterdam

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word on the street

Annett (23)

From: Budapest, Hungary Profession: Engineering Student

How do you like Amsterdam so far? ‘It’s really amazing! The people are so kind and the city is beautiful. My boyfriend and I are here for a week and have already taken a tour with a canal boat, visited the Rembrandt House and been to Rotterdam. It’s quite different to Amsterdam, but a very nice and interesting city as well.’

Did you have certain expectations of Amsterdam? ‘Of course we knew about the legal use of marijuana. We’ll probably try some tonight. I didn’t expect people to be so friendly. My English is far from perfect, but everyone is really patient and willing to help.’

How do you feel about the increase in violence against gays? Do you think hiding your sexual preference in certain situations would help? ‘Personally I don’t have any problem with gays, but I wonder if they should be so open about it. What people do at home is their business, but on the street gay people should restrain themselves. I don’t like the Gay Pride events; we have one in Budapest as well. I don’t understand why they feel the need to dance around half naked.’

word on the street

Nicolas (24)

From: Rennes, France Profession: Lawyer

Is Amsterdam as you expected it would be?

‘It’s my first time here and I arrived yesterday, so I haven’t seen that much so far. But I really like the canals and the bikes. And the people smile a lot more than in France. The weather is not that great, but where I come from it is quite similar. The French sometimes see Amsterdam as the city of drugs and sex, so it’s nice to see that there are also normal people living normal lives here!’

What are your plans for the coming days?

‘Besides the usual tourist attractions, like the Anne Frank Museum and Artis Zoo, we also have one special place we want to visit: Burger King! We don’t have them in France anymore, so for us Burger King has a mythical status.’

How do you feel about the increase in violence against gays? Do you think hiding your sexual preference in certain situations would help?

‘I’m really surprised, because the travel guides said that Amsterdam was a very gay-friendly city. I did hear that the Dutch government has become more conservative over the last few years, but I don’t know if that has anything to do with it. Maybe it’s just like it is in Paris. Some parts of the city are very gay-friendly, in other parts it would be better to keep a low profile.’

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word on the street

Evelyn (37)

From: Paris, France Profession: Sales Assistant

Is Amsterdam meeting your expectations?

‘I didn’t have any clear expectations. Of course I’d heard about the marijuana and the Red Light District, but I didn’t really enjoy seeing it for myself. The women sitting in the window reminded me of a butcher’s shop. But the city itself is lovely and the people are very helpful. And I love the fact that people are obliged to clean up after their dogs. In Paris, you have to avoid dog poop all the time!’

What are your plans for the coming days?

‘I’m not really sure, but the good thing is I have a Dutch friend to show me around. That way I have a personal tour guide to give me an insider’s view of the city. It’s always nice when you can avoid the typical tourist attractions and see something else.’

How do you feel about the increase in violence against gays? Do you think hiding your sexual preference in certain situations would help?

So smoking weed in the street and prostitution are legal, but being open about your sexuality is not? That sounds crazy and contradictory. I think that police advising gays not to hold hands in public is ridiculous. Everybody should be able to be and show who they are.’

knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives

With a wide view over the river IJ on one side and the city centre on the other, this loft apartment is about as good as it gets. Owner Jet den Heeten shows us around.

By marieke verhoeven | Photography: Wieke Braat

Five years ago, when Jet den Heeten first found out this apartment on the Piet Heinkade was for sale, she was not in the least bit interested. ‘I thought it looked terrible from the outside, like an

ugly and cold apartment building. But my husband was curious and convinced me to take a look inside.’ After seeing the huge amount of space (more than 200m2) and light the apartment had to offer, Jet quickly changed her mind. ‘I immediately fell in love

with the view over the water. It calmed me down and excited me at the same time.’

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knock knock

It was quite a big switch coming from their country house in Bloemendaal, a small town near the coast. ‘We had a great place in the centre of town, where friends were always walking in and out. Especially when our three children were still living at home. But after they moved out, we felt it was time to leave as well.’ The choice to move to Amsterdam had a lot to do with Jet’s husband. ‘He works as a radiologist in hospitals in Amsterdam and Nijmegen. When living in Bloemendaal, he used to spend hours stuck in traffic. This is much more convenient. And my children all live in the city, so I can visit them within 15 minutes.’

Never a dull moment

‘I like to collect strange or ugly Things’

On a stormy day like today, you can hear the wind howl around the house. It’s quite a spooky sound, but Jet has become used to it. In the beginning, she and her husband had more trouble with the height.‘We’re both afraid of heights, but luckily we got over that. Now we just love standing by the window and looking over the water.’ The dining table situated near the window quickly became the favourite part of the house. ‘There’s always something to see from here. Because we live next to the Passenger Cruise Terminal, we often have huge cruise ships as temporary neighbours. And last summer we had a front row view for Sail, a sailing event with ships coming in from all over the world.’

Collecting cows

Besides the incredible view, one of the things you notice while looking around the apartment is the abundance of art. From a study full of paintings to the living room filled with china: the house almost resembles a small museum. As an interior designer at Stock Interiors, Jet describes her style as ‘eclectic’. ‘I like a mixture of old and new. Some of our neighbours have a really clean designer interior, but that’s not really my taste. I like to collect things that other people might think of as strange or ugly.’ Although her husband doesn’t always agree with Jet’s choices (‘he still has nightmares about our old purple dining room’) they have one passion in common: cows. Spread around the house, there are several paintings and many small sculptures of their favourite animal. ‘I guess it’s because we both grew up in the countryside. But I am picky when it comes to cow art, I don’t want the house to be filled with cheap cow statues!’

Bonsai Delight

Concept and Production: Tommy Hagen and Frank de Graaf

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Kimono: Ethnic Chic

Dress: Camilla Norrback

Amsterdam

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Blouse: And Beyond

Kimono: Ethnic Chic

Amsterdam

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Dress: Dagmar

Photography: Frank de Graaf Styling: Xaviera Aubri & Ellen Uyen Hair: Tommy Hagen @ HouseofOrange for Tommyztoko.nl Make-up: Joke Kroon Models: Kim @ WWmodels, Milou S. @ Ullamodels, Nianga @ De Boekers, Lauren @ Codemanagement, Jacomien @ De Boekers, Yuliya @ De Boekers

amsterdam eats

Amsterdam Eats @

MAZZO BY: hungry in holland

In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites our expat foodie visits supper club’s new kid on the block Mazzo: a hip Italian restaurant that updates the traditional family-style eatery.

ith its inviting (to some people) group tables and designer touches, Mazzo mixes the comfort of a neighbourhood café with the more luxurious sensibility of a lounge. Its reasonably priced menu draws a crowd of inthe-know locals who come less for the food than for the sleek yet intimate atmosphere. Design Excellence Upon entering the clean, inviting space, the huge ‘Mazzo’ sign might have guests wondering if they’ve just walked into a nightclub. Indeed, this Italian bistro has been recently reincarnated – the site was once a well-known club venue. The designers managed to retain the trendy and lively latenight atmosphere while adding elements of a comfortable and relaxing eatery. With red-chequered napkins, exposed piping, and unfinished plywood shelving, the decor creates a pleasantly trendy ambience. One clear advantage in this club-to-restaurant conversion is space. The bright lights and open areas in the bar, lounge, and dining area are appreciated in a city full of small, dark interiors. >

‘The meal was acceptable, especially given its price’

amsterdam eats

Taste in decor, not in food Unfortunately the playful touch given to the restaurant’s design did not extend to its kitchen. Though the appetizers of vegetable bruschetta and pasta carbonara, cooked with authentically italian ingredients were fresh and tasted decent, the entrees didn’t quite hit the mark. The smattering of gravy with the roast guinea fowl could not offset the dryness of the bird. The bream, while cooked perfectly, was stuffed with an unappetising addition of raw garlic cloves (with the skin still on them!). Identical preparations of side vegetables accompanied both the fish and the meat. In general, the meal was acceptable, especially given its price. The service was sporadic, but earnest when it arrived. Please take note, Mazzo had only been open four days at the time of the review, wrinkles with the service and the quality of food may since have been smoothed out. Stick to Indulgences By far the highlight of the evening arrived at the end. The panna cotta was exceptional. It was moist, creamy, and managed to avoid the rubbery texture that is a common problem with this dessert. The lime sorbet with berries was fresh without overbearing tartness. All three offerings of red wine by the glass were excellent and surprisingly inexpensive. The late-night bar offered an extensive and affordable wine menu, making it a great place for after dinner drinks or pre-party gatherings. Despite shortcomings in the menu, Mazzo draws a crowd. The restaurant was wall-towall with a stylish Amsterdam clientele who seemed to enjoy the charming atmosphere. In a city renowned for early closing times, it’s refreshing to finally see a restaurant and lounge where people can enjoy both food and drink, day or night.

The Outcome Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior P/Q* ratio

Final Score: Round-Up

7.0

Cuisine: Italian Neighbourhood: Jordaan Atmosphere: Trendy Price pp: €30 to €50

Details Mazzo Rozengracht 114 +31 (0)(0)20 3446402 www.mazzoamsterdam.nl [map 140-c4]

Open 9am-1am Sunday to Thursday 9am-3am Friday and Saturday Public Transport: Tram 10, 13, 14 or 17 to Rozengracht Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes *Price/Quality ratio

FEATURED

What lies

beneath Amsterdam

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going deeper underground...

When you think of Amsterdam, you think of water. It has always been that way. A thousand years ago, the area now occupied by the city consisted of little more than swamps and peatland. Wooden poles were famously used to support its cultivation. But what lies beneath the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weak surface? > By Mike Peek

Amsterdam

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FEATURED

Underground construction for the Noord/Zuidlijn.

Photo: ronalddeponald

FEATURED

Undergroud tunnel for the Noord/Zuidlijn.

hen we decide to build something underground, it’s often because we don’t want to see it, smell it, or simply because

there’s no room left. Amsterdam is a relatively small city and one that is constantly threatened by congestion. The soft underbelly, however, makes every decision to build so much as an underground car park a difficult one. There are always risks involved.

City of the future? That doesn’t stop people from dreaming though. In early 2008, Dutch construction firm Strukton revealed a rather ambitious plan to build an entire city below Amsterdam. It involves more parking spaces than could ever be filled, an underground network of roads and even shops, cinemas and sport facilities. That way, senior consultant Bas Obladen claims, both locals and tourists could move around the old city centre without the current (traffic) hassle. Air quality would probably improve as well and, who knows, maybe they could even throw in some new

While constructing the Noord/Zuidlijn, historical buildings on the Vijzelsgracht were on the verge of collapsing.

green zones? Crisis management

As absurd as this proposal may sound, something similar has been done before, albeit on a much smaller scale. In 1999, a car park was opened below Museumplein. The same space also accommodates a supermarket and storage facility for the Rijksmuseum. Nevertheless, municipality didn’t exactly jump with joy when they heard about Strukton’s plans. A little project called the Noord/Zuidlijn (North-South line) has already caused them severe headaches. This new addition to Amsterdam’s subway system proved to be a logistical and financial nightmare, even before its construction caused numerous buildings in the city to sag.

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There used to be a lot of old bridges, subway stations and tunnels with utilities such as electricity, water and lighting. Some of them included complete operation rooms and dormitories. The last bomb shelter dating from the period right after WWII had to make way for a gymnasium in 2009. A shame since the shelter was of great historical value. It used to be equipped with maps and powergenerating bikes. The shelters that exist today were build at a later stage, mainly between 1960 and 1979.

The Knuffels store was originally an old metro station.

The subway By the late 1950s, Amsterdam, more or less recovered from the Second World War, started to think about a subway. In 1966 detailed plans were presented to enclose the whole city including Amsterdam-Noord (north) by a metro system. Amsterdam approved them two years later, hoping to complete the entire project by the magical year 2000. That didn’t go so well. In 1977 the first subway line opened between the new borough Bijlmermeer and Weesperplein. Three years later this ‘Oostlijn’ (east line) was extended to Centraal Station. To accommodate the subway, a lot of houses had to be demolished in the Nieuwmarkt area. Many citizens were upset and numerous riots occurred. The city council lost more goodwill than it could afford over the issue and decided to put a stop to its plans. Well, officially. New lines were built around the outer boroughs (the ‘Ringlijn’) during the 1980s and 1990s, but municipality called them ‘trams’ to avoid upheaval.

It’s hard to believe this enormous hole hasn’t swallowed the entire city merchandise. The storehouse, not open to the public of course, is located at the bottom, where people used to enter the actual station. Similarly extreme makeovers were given to quite a few bomb shelters in the city. They were built during the cold war and the city maintained most of them until the nuclear threat subsided by the late 80s. Those that are not used as repositories or equipment rooms have either been demolished or are slowly decaying. There is at least one shelter that’s being maintained though: the one under the town hall, reserved for the mayor and other VIPs. If you’re interested in the subject, you should check out the bicycle tunnel at Leeuwendalersweg. The concrete walls meant to close off the tunnel are still there, as is the door leading to the actual shelter. Some of the equipment inside (like the ventilation system) still works too.

Relics from the past One of the mistakes made during construction of the Oostlijn is still very visible. In hindsight, the Nieuwmarkt station was equipped with one entrance too many. It was eventually closed and now accommodates a store called ‘Knuffels’ (cuddly toys). It’s one of the weirdest shops in the whole city, because the interior has not been modified. As soon as you step inside, you’ll notice the escalator (still working!) on your right, partially blocked by

This door at the Leeuwendalersweg leads to a secret shelter.

FEATURED

Weesperplein The most famous of all bomb shelters in Amsterdam is probably the one beneath metro station Weesperplein. When the station was constructed, the city still had plans for a much larger subway system throughout the city. Platforms for the East-West line were already built before development was stopped. Furnished as a shelter during the Cold War, this deserted station was later used by squatters and other activists. They had a special key to the public elevator (God knows how they got it), which won’t go all the way down without it. Amsterdam ceased maintenance in 1999, but even now traces of the past can be seen inside the station. The doors are still there and, if you look at the ceiling, you’ll notice the white blades. They are not just decoration, but upside down tables, so people could at least eat properly (or play cards) during an atomic attack. Weesperplein metro station. You’ll find more entrances if you enter the tunnel that leads to Centraal Station, but it might be best if you just believe me on that one. As I was casually taking

mentioned before, Amsterdam is getting clogged.

a few pictures inside in the public area, guards told

The city’s population is constantly increasing, but

me to delete the photos and get the hell out of there.

public transport above ground is already stretched to

They are probably even less keen on trespassers.

its absolute limit. There’s simply no more room for

Perhaps there are still Cold War secrets hidden at

additional trams or buses. Moreover, people living in

Weesperplein? Luckily, the authorities are far more

Noord would be able to get to the centre and south end

helpful if you ask them about their most ambitious

of town much quicker with the new metro.

project ever. The Noord/Zuidlijn line makes public transport more

North and south: a soap opera

attractive for people from outside the city as well.

The Noord/Zuidlijn line will start at Buikslotermeer

Seventy-five per cent of visitors (including those who

in the north of the city, then dive under the IJ river,

work in Amsterdam) now come by car. Authorities

Centraal Station and the city centre to resurface again

hope the improved subway system will inspire more

between Europaplein and the already existing Station

people to use public transport. That way, air quality

Zuid, its final stop. The entire route measures 9.7

and liveability would improve.

kilometres, 3.8 kilometres of which is underground. For the Oostlijn, prefabricated tunnels were sunk into

At least, that’s the city’s version of things. When

the ground… but that was not an option this time.

the Noord/Zuidlijn line was announced in 1996, shit

The Noord/Zuidlijn line runs straight through the

almost immediately hit the fan. ‘Too expensive’ and

heart of the city. Using the ‘old’ method would mean

‘unnecessary’ were the most common objections.

demolishing the historical centre of Amsterdam. So they would have to drill.

Some also thought the location of the stops in Noord were poorly chosen. Most people would still have to

But why did the city decide to build this new

bike there, because they are not positioned directly

subway in the first place? Primarily because, as I

in residential areas. And while the city claimed that

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FEATURED

Where are the bomb shelters? 1.

Ruyterkade - Havengebouw & office (1960), holds 120 people.

Koningsplein - University Library (1964), holds 190 people.

Singel - Torensluis (lock, 1976), holds 240 people.

Waterlooplein - Parking annex shelter beneath the City Hall/Stopera (1984), holds 4,800 people. Nearby (at Meester Visserplein) an old shelter now holds an underground playground: Tun Fun.

Weesperplein - Subway Station (1979), holds 12,000 people. The station, platform and shelter still exist but the utilities such as water, light and electricity were removed in 2009. The doors and tunnels are securely locked to prevent bums and drugs addicts getting in. Inside the elevator there are buttons that can take you to the deepest levels, if only they were unlocked. The white ceiling is actually made of reversed tables. Handy in times of crisis!

Nieuwmarkt - Subway Station (1977), holds 6,000 people. In the same state as the shelter at Weesperplein. At Nieuwe Hoogstraat (close to Nieuwmarkt) there’s a toy shop inside an unused tunnel. While searching for a nice present for your little niece, you’ll see the stairway that takes you down to nowhere.

Prins Hendrikkade - Tunnel beneath IJ-tunnel (1968), holds 100 people.

Bomb shelter at the Torensluis.

Source: stelling-amsterdam.nl

only five to ten per cent of the houses along the route needed reinforced foundations to withstand the drilling, an independent expert hired by worried residents concluded that all buildings needed more support. A referendum was held in which a large majority spoke out against the plans, but it was ignored because of the low turnout.

Construction Despite all protests, Amsterdam gave the go-ahead in late 2002. The Noord/Zuidlijn line would be completed by 2011 and cost €1.46 billion. In 1996 the budget was estimated at only €600 million. And by now, the costs have risen to €3.1 billion, and the line won’t be finished until 2017. What happened? The scale of the Noord/Zuidlijn line project is unprecedented anywhere in the world. Never before has a subway tunnel been drilled in ground so soft and sandy. Some contractors doubted if it could be done at all. Between 1997 and 2002 several tests were conducted to see what would happen when the drill passed historical buildings. In the end it was decided that the weakest grounds would be artificially strengthened with concrete, though many experts

constructions for the Noord/Zuidlijn at Vijzelgracht

doubted if that was enough to avoid sagging.

Kids playing in a former bomb shelter.

FEATURED

They were right. During construction, the sheet piling started to leak at several locations, allowing groundwater to splash into the pits. The water washed away the soil, causing severe sagging, especially at the Vijzelgracht in June and September of 2008. Some properties subsided as much as 23cm, bringing them to the verge of collapse. The city of course has to pay for the restoration of these buildings. The cost of this operation is estimated at €50-70 million.

Continue or stop? Last year, former alderman Tjeerd Herrema admitted that the original budget was never going to cut it. It was kept artificially low just to get the project approved. No one was really surprised. The new subway stop under Centraal Station alone is a major investment, because the original wooden poles have to be replaced with concrete foundations while the station remains in use. After the incidents at the Vijzelgracht, construction was stopped and support for the Noord/Zuidlijn line dropped to an all-time low. The city was and is threatened by bankruptcy. Other projects have had to be cancelled because there’s simply no money left, and a very public debate started about whether or not the subway should be finished at all. Maybe the stations could be used as car parks? Others suggested that they just finish the part between Noord and Centraal Station, so no further harm would be done to

Construction of the subway stop at Centraal Station.

the city centre. An independent committee investigated the matter and, on 4 June 2009, concluded that Amsterdam should finish the subway in its entirety. Some €2 billion would be wasted if the city pulled out now. And so, despite everything, the work was resumed. Fortunately, no big accidents have been reported since then. It’s now possible to see the construction site at the future Rokin Station for yourself. Just look for the big red ‘M’ (open Tuesday through Sunday from 13.0018.00, free entrance). As you descend the stairs and the pit appears from the dark, your jaw will drop for a second. It’s hard to believe this enormous hole hasn’t swallowed the entire city.

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SM Bunker While looking for bunkers in Amsterdam you might discover the SM Bunker. It is indeed an old bunker (at NSDM-Wharf, Amsterdam Noord) but it’s not underground. If you decide to pay a visit anyway, be aware: it’s a popular venue for hardcore gay parties.

expo

Ndoto – Tanzania Dream gallery

Fashion photographer Aernout Overbeeke (59) went to Tanzania, bought himself a goat, brought it to the Masai and then recorded its slaughter. ‘You have to capture the old before it vanishes.’ By Mathilde Hoekstra

expo

To get this grainy and dark effect Overbeeke uses a special printing technique, called lith-printing

How does it work? Overexpose a print by a couple of stops and then augment it in a special lith-developing machine.

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expo

Different colours and hues can be achieved as the lith-developing machine gets older.

expo

This makes the effect more unpredictable and appealing.

Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs 13 November to 8 January Open: Wed-Sat, 1pm-6pm, and by appointment Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2L +31 (0)20 3206705 www. eduardplanting.com [map 99 C/d4]

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magnified

Mendo The cool bookstore text: guido makor Photography: Sarah moore

shop

ant to satisfy your shopping needs? Then enter De Negen Straatjes, armed with your credit card and plenty of time for browsing! MENDO is not the largest bookstore in Amsterdam, but it may very well be the most spectacular. The shop specialises in ‘creative’ books: books on interior design, architecture, fashion, photography and graphics.

6,000 kilos of steel The owners describe their shop as ‘a present-day old-fashioned library’. Indeed, you can easily spend hours at MENDO. I was struck by a book about Mohammed Ali. It weighs 37 kilograms and costs €3,000. But it is by no means the most expensive book on sale in the store. Prices range from €10 to a staggering €10,000. The store’s design, its superb collection of books, and its almost serene atmosphere made me think of MENDO as a ‘temple for big picture books’. The atmosphere is greatly influenced by wall-to-wall bookshelves, formed by 6,000 kilos of steel. The surface of the walls is covered with wood and leather. Light and dark elements in the store’s lighting complete the sense of serenity.

Offline browsing MENDO offers both Dutch and English books, but you won’t find the store online. This may seem odd in this day and age, but they have really thought this through. Their website explains: ‘Taking your time to browse the shelves and the inspiring surroundings is such an essential additional value, that we simply cannot withhold it from you.’

Mendo may be the most spectacular bookstore in town can only be reached by stairs. Having conquered those obstacles, there’s only one minor problem left: the collection is so impressive, you risk losing your sense of time and missing your flight home.

No Bugaboos The store is also home to the MENDO Graphic Design Agency. As a matter of fact, they just published their own picture book Flavours - Capturing the beauty of nature in homes and gardens. If want to pay a visit, leave your Bugaboo or wheelchair behind because you’ll experience difficulty entering the store, and once inside there’s a part that

Mendo Berenstraat 11 +31 (0)20 6121216 www.mendo.nl [Map 141 - D5]

getting around

Dom Church

Amsterdam

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getting around

The Heart of Holland UTRE CH T By: Mike Peek

Do you want to experience a provincial town that’s not too far away from the capital? Take the train to Utrecht. It’s only a stone’s throw away!

1674

was a bad year for Utrecht. In the midst of summer, a tornado swept by and wrecked parts of the city. Its foremost victim was the Dom Church, which was still under construction at the time. The cathedral’s nave completely collapsed, never to be rebuilt. For a century and a half, the remains were used as a cemetery. More surprisingly, homosexuals gathered there. ‘Homosexuals?’ you might ask. ‘Did they even exist back then?’ Not officially, of course, but they still needed a place to meet. And the ruins of Christianity kept them out of sight.

456 steps Flash forward. I have lived in Utrecht all my life. The Dom Tower, completed in 1382 and unharmed by the tornado, is still the city’s undisputed pièce de résistance. At 112 metres tall, it’s the largest church tower in the Netherlands and a fine example of Gothic architecture. You can and should climb its 465 steps for a magnificent view of the city. There are several sights on the way up, including the tower’s imposing bells.

There is plenty more to see, however. Once you get past Hoog Catharijne, a horrendous 1970s shopping mall attached to the city’s main train station, Utrecht is quite gorgeous. It is sometimes called ‘a smaller version of Amsterdam’ and that’s not far from the truth. The famous canals (Oudegracht and Nieuwegracht) are modest in size, but very cosy and generally well-kept. You can get down to water level, where the yards accommodate numerous restaurants and fancy marketing agencies, as well as some extremely expensive residences.

Miffy Just walking along the canals, or taking a boat trip, is a nice way to spend an afternoon, but it can get very busy on weekends. To escape the crowds, head to the Museumkwartier (museum quarter). Centraal Museum is probably the best known of the bunch, housing a collection of both old and modern art. There is currently an exhibition on display about Gerrit Rietveld – a famous architect and furniture designer born in Utrecht. Rietveld has his own museum as well, the Rietveld Schröder Huis, which is a little further away from the city centre. >

getting around

> For all you Miffy fans out there, a Dick Bruna House was founded a couple of years ago. It’s right across the street from the Centraal Museum and provides an overview of his work. Bruna himself, now 83 years old, is still going strong and can be seen riding his bike to work or sipping coffee in the local cafés. He likes his privacy though, so please don’t disturb the man.

The wonders of the universe If you are visiting Utrecht with your kids, the railway museum (Spoorwegmuseum) is a must. It was refurbished recently and is now what should probably be called an ‘experience’. There are still actual trains to be seen, but the museum’s focus lies on interactive storytelling. It even has a theme park-style dark ride, which is not quite up to Disney standards, but will definitely impress the little ones. The Spoorwegmuseum is located at the edge of the Museumkwartier, giving you a glimpse of the more rural-looking waters in Utrecht: the ‘Singel’. Walk around this area for a bit, taking in the beautiful old houses, or relax for a moment in Lepelenburg Park. If you’re interested in the wonders of the universe, a visit to Sonnenborgh museum and observatory should be on your list.

Underground Once you head back to the centre of town, the sight of De Dom (as it is commonly known) will ensure you don’t get lost. Take some time to look around when you get there. The ruins of the collapsed nave have long made way for a tidy square between the tower and the church, and it’s always fun to imagine what it would have looked like when they were connected. The church, eventually restored in the 19th century, is still used for daily services and you’re welcome to join them if you’d like. An underground visitor’s centre explaining the 2000-year history of Utrecht is scheduled to open in the square next summer. For now, there are only some lunchrooms and cafés where you can sit down for a bite. A fine example is Brasserie Domplein, where yours truly worked as a barkeeper for over ten years. It’s a nice place, but whatever you do, don’t order the salmon sandwich. Trust me. <

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other than the horrendous 1970s shopping mall, utrecht is quite gorgeous.

How to get there It’s easy. Trains to Utrecht Centraal Station leave from Amsterdam Centraal Station every 15 minutes (.08/.23/.38/.53), from 6am till midnight. Just as many trains run from Utrecht back to Amsterdam (.10/.25/.40/.55). The journey takes about half an hour and a return ticket will set you back €13. Useful tourist information, and many more places of interest than could be described here, can be found at www.utrechtyourway.nl. If you want to go up the Dom Tower, check www.domtoren.nl. There are several guided tours each day (you’re not allowed to climb the stairs on your own). Reservations are recommended.

4 5

1. City Centre 2. Canal View 3. Singel 4. Dom Church 5. Canal-Side Restaurant

IMPORT/EXPORT tools of the trade

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import / export

Hanging with Hanggai by sarah moore

They are a former Punk group turned traditional Mongolian folk band; he is a producer for big international artists such as King of Rock & Soul Solomon Burke, Dutch rock band De Dijk and sample artist Eboman. So how did JB Meijers get to know Hanggai? What did he see in them, and how have they achieved such international success? A close look behind the scenes!

At five o’clock I find myself waiting in the basement of Paradiso. Hanggai are still in the dressing room preparing for a headline performance at the 3-day world music event The Contrabanda Music Festival. Upstairs, the venue is packed with hundreds of Europeans eager to see the band perform otherworldly ‘throat songs’, dressed in traditional Mongolian outfits and wielding a variety of ancient Chinese folk instruments. Finally, Ilchi, the lead of Hanggai (and the only English speaker) stumbles down to the basement with his producer JB Meijers. There’s only half an hour to go until sound check and it turns out the band missed the memo that stated they were to interview each other. Fortunately, I had a few questions of my own to get the conversation started. >

“Trying to get the best

side of people can be very tiresome”-JB

import / export

Sarah: How did you find each other? JB: World Connection, the record company, connected us. We didn’t know each other but I thought it was a very interesting project. It was actually quite difficult in the beginning because of the Internet situation in China. There’s a lot of censorship, no Facebook or YouTube. We had to connect in more traditional ways. Ilchi: JB, what’s the biggest difference between our band and any Western band? JB: Western music is usually played under a roof and Mongolian music is played outside. This makes a hell of a difference to the way you perform because, if you play in a church or in a hall, the harmonics are much richer.

Outside, in order to enrich your sounds, you must do different things in order to get your harmonics. I think that’s where the throat singing comes from. Ilichi: Yes, our sound originates in the grasslands, in the outdoors. During Naadam, the big summer Mongolian festival, the singers all perform throat singing. The throat sound is where two simultaneous sounds come out at once to create a harmony. JB: I find it striking that the music you

play doesn’t seem to resonate very well in China. You play abroad a lot in Europe and the US, and you get really good reviews everywhere, but not in China. Why is that?

Ilchi: It’s all about pop music in China right now. Music Festivals have been around for less than ten years there. We

“The nostalgia from the

grasslands resonates in our music”-Hanggai

don’t have radio or TV programmes for rock music so few people know about our music. JB: So your music is part of the underground scene there? Ilchi: Not only this kind of music, but there isn’t a real market for rock in general. In China, people don’t buy CDs, they just download music. I think it’s bad because musicians need to perform live. Three or four years ago, we played in a small bar and the whole audience was foreign. But two years ago, 150 people came to our concert and 50 were Chinese. Most are still foreigners but more Chinese people are starting to come to our shows. It’s starting to change. Sarah: What about in Inner

Mongolia, in the grasslands; do people appreciate that you’re trying to promote this music abroad?

Ilchi: Many people from the grasslands have moved to the city so I think there is a big problem in preserving our culture. We want the young people to know that we need to take care of our culture. Many of the songs that we sing are really traditional songs from the grasslands. We don’t change the melody and people like the sounds so I think it’s working. JB: Yeah, it is working! Sarah: JB, I see that you produce a

lot of different kinds of music from Solomon Burke to Hanggai. Do you look for a variety of music when you’re producing?

JB: It’s just a gut feeling I guess. If someone is playing the violin and I like it, nice! I don’t want to hold restrictions on any kind of music. The only thing I don’t produce is music that’s just made to be really hip, like electro pop. That’s the reason I like Hanggai: they’re so not into fashion, they do their own thing and it resonates. I would like to see Lady Gaga try something so original. Sarah: What about you? You were

making music in the past, then you moved to producing. But now you’re back working on a solo album? JB: I make music all the time but I haven’t really thought of setting off on a solo career. I get bored easily. Touring is nice, but sometimes the drink, play,

Amsterdam

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import / export

travel, drink, play, travel, gets too repetitive. But on the other hand, trying to get the best side of people can also be very tiresome. So you make a solo album, thinking ‘I’m gonna do it my way’.

Name: Jan-Bart Meijers Date and Place of Birth: 1972, Delft, the Netherlands. Study: Two years at

JB: Ilchi, do you ever go back to your

Berklee College of

punk roots? Do you still play in punk bands every now and then?

“I would

like to see Lady Gaga try something so original”-JB

Music.

Ilchi: No. I can’t get the feeling in punk music anymore. But I get the feeling in the music we play now.

What he’ve been up to:

JB: Or are you on mission to promote

performed in the band Charmin’

Mongolian folk music?

Ilchi: We want to promote Mongolian folk music but we also want to blend it with different genres. For the next album, we want to mix our folk sound with instruments like the double bass and saxophone. But we don’t have much time to record at the moment because we’re touring too much. Sarah: Has it been a surprise to see

your band’s popularity grow abroad?

Ilchi: Yes, two years ago we played just two or three concerts in Europe and this year we’re scheduled to play many more. The shows are much bigger and we also get to play big festivals.

In 1990, he signed a record deal with Virgin records and Children. Two albums and three years later, he joined the band Shine, Richard Janssen’s postFatal Flowers group. After Shine broke up in 1996, Meijers started a Dutch/Irish Britpop band called Supersub. During those years, he started to take an interest in producing music over performing. In 1999, he decided to fully focus on producing. Since then he has produced for De Dijk, Acda en de Munnik, Solomon Burke, and now Hanggai.

Name: Ilchi Date and Place of Birth: 1980, Inner

Sarah: Why do you think that people

Mongolia, China.

from Europe and North America are so interested in traditional Mongolian folk music?

Ilchi: The nostalgia from the grasslands resonates in our music. When I was really young, I would sing songs for my father. He always said: ‘No, your singing is not Mongolian style.’ I really didn’t know what he meant: I was on key. Until one day, I was listening to old recordings and practising my singing, my father said ‘finally, you got it.’ Our fans must feel that our music comes from the heart. Sarah: Do you guys have plans to

collaborate again in the future?

JB: I’d love to. Going out to Beijing and meeting Hanggai has been one of the best experiences of my life. We worked on something and then became friends. I like it when that happens. It’s not work anymore. It’s just good times.

Study: Throat singing with teacher Aodusurong.

What he’ve been up to: In the early 2000s, Ilchi was the leader of the Beijing punk band T9 where he sang about the frustrations of modern life. In 2005, he took a pilgrimage back to Inner Mongolia in the hope of musical self-exploration. There he mastered the art of throat singing and reconnected with traditional music from the Inner Mongolian grasslands. He transformed his punk band into Hanggai and now tours internationally to promote and preserve this traditional folk music.

pimp my bike

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY: Wieke Braat

Jameela, 23

‘I want people to think: Wow! That’s a cool bakfiets! ’ belonging to au pair Jameela needs a makeover! ‘I really hope people will look at us when we pass by,’ she says. ‘I want them to think “wow, that’s a cool bakfiets”. It shouldn’t be average but distinctive.’ Rice parties

Jameela was born in the Philippines Her father is a fisherman, her mother a housewife. Her cousin was an au pair in Holland. When she told Jameela about the free and open-minded spirit of the Dutch, she was instantly interested, and so she applied for work at an au pair agency. They hired her, and she left her country for the first time in her life to become a nanny on the other site of the world.

very sub-culture has its own status symbol that places people in the social ranking. A cargo bike is to au pairs what the gold chain is to the Surinamese guys from Bijlmer. It holds the same sway as Swiss watches do for the lawyers from the canal belt, or handmade Birkin bags for the posh ladies of PC Hooftstraat. In the wealthy neighbourhood of Amsterdam Zuid, au pairs from all over the world are trying to outdo each other with the newest, coolest and most luxurious cargo bikes. Clearly this second-hand trashy bike

Amsterdam

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There are approximately 1100 au pairs working in the Netherlands. Most of them are from South-East Asia and Latin America. Ninety-nine per cent of them are female (unsurprisingly), and in their twenties. Before they can get a work permit they must obtain some basic Dutch skills so that they’re able to participate in Dutch family life. The programme, of course, includes a brief introduction to cycling. Swimming, knowing the story of Sinterklaas and the meaning of frequently used words such as hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles) and pindakaas (peanut butter) are also mandatory. >

Lisa Smidt, 25

- The Pimping Artist

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cargo bikes are to au pairs what gold chains are to Surinamese guys from Bijlmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

pimp my bike

Au pairs, like most foreign workers, have a strong social network. They meet at their kids’ schools, organise rice parties (ed., an au pair get together where rice is served as a main dish) and

hang out together. Jameela loves to go shopping and walk around the city with her colleagues. Taking care of people is in her blood; when she returns to the Philippines she wants to become a nurse.

Fashion asset

‘An introduction to cycling is part of the programme’

Jameela’s cargo bike is a tricycle. It’s the perfect option since she has little experience on a bike and had only cycled a few times before. The first cargo bikes were also tricycles. They were used by all kinds of tradesmen to deliver goods at the beginning of the 20th century. They made a brief comeback during World War 2 due to the lack of fuel. With an ever-increasing awareness of environmental problems, the cargo bike started to reappear in the mid-nineties. Fifteen years later we discover a new trend – cargo bikes are dominating the streets. These days they’re mainly being used to carry kids, hence they’ve become the latest fashion accessory amongst au pairs. Graphic artist Lisa Smidt, 25, is in charge of the pimping job. She laughs out loud when she sees the cargo bike. ‘I’ve got to have this! I’ll cross the whole city on it, my paintings would fit perfectly in this cargo.’ Whenever she sells a painting she delivers them personally to her clients. ‘On a windy day cycling would become kiting,’ she jokes. Typo-geek

Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

Lisa starts with a white base. While we wait for the paint to dry she tells me about a video she produced for La Melodia

(ed., Amsterdam hip-hop duo MC Melodee and DJ/Producer I.N.T.). She

combined film with her drawings for their song Give It Up. ‘Graphic design is accessible for everyone these days,’ she says. ‘So it’s important to combine different media.’

Finally she picks up her Posca marker. ‘Drawing is the starting point in all my work. This cargo bike is a good opportunity to focus on that and that alone,’ she smiles. Lisa is a so-called ‘typogeek’. ‘You can say anything you want with letters. They speak, literally and figuratively.’ Her knowledge of graphic design is an erudite craftsmanship from the art academy. The ability to present a letter in such a way that it speaks for itself makes her work unique. ‘My handwriting is my trademark’. Picture me Rollin’

Jameela wanted to have a bike that wouldn’t go unnoticed, so Lisa decided to borrow a phrase from late rapper Tupac Shakur: Picture me Rollin’. Her abstract and curly calligraphy makes it look cheerful and cool at the same time. On the sides she adds: From evening, till morning. When ‘the cargo load’ will learn how to read (ed., the baby, not the au pair of course) these flashy letters will definitely be a good exercise! On an educational level this bike sure beats all the others. But what will Jameela say? ‘I know Tupac!’ Hopefully that makes up for the fact that Lisa didn’t use any green or brown; her favourite colours. ‘I’m quite sure everyone is going to look at me when I ride across the city on this bike!’ she says. And luckily I’m quite sure too. Everybody will picture her Rolling. Rolling to Rank!

best of amsterdam

Places to eat

Best of Amsterdam

For Dinner

Fifteen

Seasons

Nevy

Bridges

Fifteen Amsterdam is no ordinary restaurant. It is based on the successful concept of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen in London, and continues his vision which is to give 15-20 youngsters each year the opportunity to change their lives and train to become chefs.

The trendy yet casual atmosphere, combined with the excellent service and seasonal specials makes for a splendid evening whether with friends, colleagues, or that special someone.

Enjoy excellent fresh fish, cooked to your wishes with an accompanying sauce of your choice. Offering great value for money, Nevy guarantees a fantastic seafood experience in a delightful setting.

Bridges is all about fish. The best fish, always and only in the proper season. They offer a wide selection of fresh fish and seafood, both in their restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Choose from oysters, lobster sandwiches, and super-fresh fish, all prepared while you watch.

Jollemanhof 9

Herenstraat 16

Westerdoksdijk 40A

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197

[map 21-j3]

[map 22-E3] +31 (0)6 53697057 www.seasonsrestaurant.nl

+31 (0)20 3446409 www.nevy.nl

[map 3-f5]

+31 (0)20 5095015 www.fifteen.nl

For Dinner

+31 (0)20 5553560 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl

For Lunch

Toro Dorado

Amsterdam Jewel Cruises

Golden Brown Bar

The Pancake Bakery

Steak restaurant Toro Dorado serves a selection of quality steaks, grilled to perfection. Choose from Royal Wagyu Kobe Select, Scottish Aberdeen Angus or Argentinian Hereford. A friendly, relaxed restaurant in the city centre.

Enjoy a 3-course à la carte dinner whilst cruising the world famous canals on a classic riverboat, built in 1898. A complete evening dinner cruise of almost 3 hours including an amuse-bouche followed by 3 gourmet courses.

The Golden Brown Bar & Restaurant has a nice atmosphere with a modern interior and promising menu on a suprising menu card.

This typical Dutch pancake house is inside a beautiful canal house. Amsterdam’s finest pancakes are served with a smile. A fun place to lunch!

Spuistraat 3A

Singel 235

Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146

Prinsengracht 191-A

[map 24-f3]

[map 25-e4]

[map 45-8a]

[map 27-d3]

+31 (0)20 4218695 www.torodorado.com

+31 (0)20 4221385 www.amsterdamjewelcruises.com

+31 (0)20 6124076 www.goldenbrownbar.nl

+31 (0)20 6251333 www.pancake.nl

best of amsterdam

Family Activities Best of Amsterdam

Activities

Attractions in Amsterdam

MacBike

Boom Chicago

Artis Zoo

Nemo

Quick, fun, and affordable! Get to know Amsterdam with friends, family, and colleagues. Use one of their bike route maps to navigate Amsterdam yourself or chose to take one of the daily guided tours. They also offer specialised excursions with tour guides. Bikes with seating for children are available.

Boom Chicago’s English-language comedy shows are an exhilarating mix of sketches, clever improv, music and video. Shows every night. New show: Your Worst Fears! From crime to growing old to meeting your maker, Boom has created a hilarious show about what scares us. Runs through Nov 29.

Founded in 1838, the Artis Zoo is still as enchanting as it was nearly two centuries ago. Not only is Artis an oasis of peace right at the heart of a fast-paced city, it is also a haven for some 700 species of animals and 200 varieties of trees, many on the verge of extinction. A definite must-see.

Everything in NEMO is connected to science and technology. Exhibitions, theatre performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. You will smell, hear, feel and see how the world works. NEMO is a pretty smart thing to do!

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 116

Leidseplein 12

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40

Oosterdok 2

[map 36-g5]

[map 128-d7]

[map -i6]

[map i4]

+31 (0)20 6200985 www.macbike.nl

+31 (0)20 4230101 www.boomchicago.nl/en/

0900 2784796 www.artis.nl

+31 (0)20 5313233 www.e-nemo.nl/en

Attractions outside Amsterdam

Playgrounds

Efteling

Dolfinarium

TunFun Playground

FunForest

Efteling is a magical theme park that promises a thrilling experience. Lose yourself in this fairytale world and take the lead role in the adventure.

Meet the playful stars of the sea! With shows and performances, playgrounds and underwater panoramas, there’s loads to discover at the Dolfinarium. While Dolfinarium is closed for December, there are special winter dolhpin shows from 26 until 30 December 2010.

TunFun is an indoor playground for children aged 1-12. Situated in a former traffic underpass in the centre of Amsterdam, kids can have fun in a sportive and creative way . TunFun offers plenty of opportunities to climb, creep and crawl. They have a disco, slides, trampolines, an indoor football pitch and much more.

A Fun Forest full of exciting adventures suitable for the young and old. Fun Forest has 8 different courses in living trees, with a variety of heights and difficulty levels. You’ll find yourself up for some exciting and surprising challenges!

Europalaan 1 KAATSHEUVEL

Strandboulevard Oost 1 HARDERWIJK

Mr. Visserplein 7 [map 39-g6]

Bosbaanweg 3 amstelveen

0900 0161 www.efteling.com

+31 (0)34 1467467 www.dolfinarium.nl

+31 (0)20 6894300 www.tunfun.nl

+31 (0)6 50271983 www.funforest.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

best of amsterdam

Culture Vulture Best of Amsterdam

Museums

Rijksmuseum

Hermitage

Van Gogh Museum

Holland Pass

The Rijksmuseum offers an overview of Dutch art and history from medieval times to the 20th century. The museum (opened in 1885) is currently undergoing major renovation work.

This is the first time that any Dutch museum has devoted an exhibition to Alexander the Great (September 2010 till March 2011), his journey to the East, and the influence of Hellenism. The exhibition spans a period of almost 2500 years.

The museum’s permanent collection includes more than 200 paintings by Van Gogh, 500 drawings and more than 750 letters. Visit, take a look and (re)discover The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and many more.

Holland Pass offers you great savings and convenience during your trip to Amsterdam or other Dutch cities and other sights of interest. The participants within the pass include museums, attractions, public transportation, restaurants and shops.

Stadhouderskade 42

Nieuwe Herengracht 14

Paulus Potterstraat 7

[map 28-d8]

[map 29-g6]

[map 30-c9]

+31 (0)20 6747000 www.rijksmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 5308751 www.hermitage.nl

+31 (0)20 5705200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl

Museums

Experience

Museum of Bags and Purses

Heineken Experience

House of Bols

Gassan Diamonds Factory

Discover the unique collection of Hendrikje Ivo, who collected bags for more than 35 years. The museum houses a collection of more than 4000 bags and is the largest museum of bags in the world.

It’s not the Heineken Museum, it’s the Heineken Experience. Why? Because four levels of interactive experiences in the former brewery will plunge you chin deep into the fascinating world of Heineken! See it, hear it, smell it, taste it and enjoy it.

House of Bols revolves around the rich history of the world’s oldest distillery: Lucas Bols. But you should also experience the unique taste experiment in The Hall of Taste. And do you want to achieve perfection in bartending? Visit the Flare Booth to practise your skills.

The Amsterdam diamond company Gassan Diamonds is located in a former steam-driven diamond factory. You can watch diamond cutters at work while a guide tells you all about diamond processing. Experience the thrill of the diamond polishing process with a free diamond factory tour at Gassan Diamonds.

Herengracht 573

Stadhouderskade 78

Paulus Potterstraat 14

Nw Uilenburgerstr 173- 175

[map 32-f7]

[map 33-e9]

[map 34-c9]

[map 35-g5]

+31 (0)20 5246452 www.tassenmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 52392220 www.heinekenexperience.com

+31 (0)20 5708575 www.houseofbols.nl

+31 (0)20 6225333 www.gassandiamonds.nl

+31 (0)20 419 32 20 www.hollandpass.com

Tours

best of amsterdam

Live music

Best of Amsterdam

Heineken Music Hall

Bourbon Street

Paradiso

Melkweg

Heineken Music Hall Since 2001 Heineken Music Hall lives up to her credo “Live will never be the same!”. The concept, which is internationally refreshing, offers over 600.000 visitors a year an unforgettable night out.

Famous musicians, such as Sting, Jeff Healey, Bobby Kimball(Toto), The entire Rolling Stones Crew and the late dutch rock & roll hero Herman Brood (may he rest in peace) also found their way to the Bourbon Street.

Because of the diversity in musical genres and non-musical programming, Paradiso draws a greatly diverse crowd: from young to old and from punk rockers to country music lovers, a reflection of the Dutch population.

The Melkweg is one of the most well-known cultural centres within and outside the Netherlands, and is unique because of a programme that unites five artistic disciplines under one roof: music, dance/ theatre, film, photography and media art.

Arena Boulevard 590

Leidsekruisstraat 6

Weteringschans 6-8

Lijnbaansgracht 234

+31 (0)20 4097979 www.heineken-music-hall.nl

[map 47-d7]

[map 48-d8]

[map 49-c7/d7]

+31 (0)20 6233440 www.bourbonstreet.nl

+31 (0)20 6264521 www.paradiso.nl

+31 (0)20 5318181 www.melkweg.nl

Concertgebouw

Winston Kingdom

Sugar Factory

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

Multidisciplinary programming bringing you innovative parties, young talent, live shows, new disco, progressive clubs, poetry, dancefloor jazz, art, bigbands and a creatively motivated public!

The spectacular building has become Amsterdam’s Concert Hall of the 21st Century. The Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ shows current musical developments in the form of special series, festivals, multimedia concerts and exhibitions.

Described as the best instrument in the orchestra it houses, the Concertgebouw. This must have been what the great and the good of Amsterdam had in mind in 1881, when they decided that the Dutch capital should have a proper concert hall worthy of the name.

Open every night of the week until late; the program includes indierock, electro, drum n bass, hip-hop, dub-reggae and unpretentious retro-pop and disco, on most nights preluded by local and international live acts of all sorts and styles.

Lijnbaansgracht 238

Piet Heinkade 1

Concertgebouwplein 2-6

Warmoesstraat 129

[map 50-d7]

[map j3]

[map c10]

[map 76-f4]

+31 (0)20 6270008 www.sugarfactory.nl

+31 (0)20 7882010 www.muziekgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 5730573 www.concertgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 6231380 www.winston.nl

Gay Scene Best of Amsterdam

Bars

Shop

Roque

The Queen’s Head

Getto

Vrolijk Bookshop

Trendy Club Roque boasts a cocktail bar, funky dance floor and a DJ spinning all sorts from old-school house to cutting edge dance. It’s popular with gays, locals, students and lipstick lesbos alike.

Located right in the heart of the Red Light District, the Queen’s Head is undoubtedly one of Amsterdam’s most happening gay bars. The bar has a large video screen and hosts weekly events. Check their website for more details.

The great sort of place you could visit one or three times a week, eat and be merry. A place with an attitude free zone, for gays, lesbians, bi, queers and straights.

The Amsterdam based gay & lesbian ‘Vrolijk’ shop has two floors with lots of queer books/ movies (DVDs) with Lesbian, Gay, Transgender or Camp content. A must visit!

Amstel 178

Zeedijk 20

Warmoesstraat 51

Paleisstraat 135

[map 54-g6]

[map 55-g3]

[map 56-f3]

[map 57-e4]

+31 (0)6 47322051 www.clubroque.nl

+31 (0)20 4202475 www.queenshead.nl

+31 (0)20 4215151 www.getto.nl

+31 (0)20 6235142 www.vrolijk.nu

Shop

Cruise

Mr. B

Rob

The Eagle

Club Church

Mr. B’s T-Shirts are world-famous. His original leather shop is here in Amsterdam, on Warmoesstraat.

This famous gay leather and rubber shop just moved to a new location in the Warmoesstraat.

One of Amsterdam’s very first gay establishments, cruise bar The Eagle attracts a mixed crowd of both tourists and locals.

Club Church is a new dance club on Kerkstraat. They have daily changing (sex) themes, with dance and fetish parties at the weekend.

Warmoesstraat 89

Warmoesstraat 71

Warmoesstraat 90

Kerkstraat 52

[map 58-f3]

[map 59-f3]

[map 60-f3]

+31 (0)20 7883060 www.misterb.com

+31 (0)20 4283000 www.rob.nl

+31 (0)20 6278634

[map 61-d7] www.clubchurch.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

Bars

Best of Amsterdam

Bars

MiNiBAR

Vyne

MiNiBAR is a new kind of bar. A bar where you never have to wait to be served again because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the bartender. Check in with the concierge and get the key to your personal fridge. Each MiNiBAR contains all the classics like beer, wine and spirits, as well as a few surprises.

Vyne, on the Prinsengracht, is a wine bar with a cool interior. Order by the glass and you can choose from 24 different types of wine. Order by the bottle, and the choice is even bigger.

Prinsengracht 478

Prinsengracht 411

[map 40-d7]

[map 41-d5]

+31 (0)20 4221935 www.minibaronline.com

+31 (0)20 3446408 www.vyne.nl

Feijoa

Bubbles & Wines

At this luxuriously designed wine/ cocktail bar you immediately notice that service has a high priority. The barman shakes not only classic cocktails but also comes up with stunningly creative cocktail recipes of his own!

Located on one of the quaintest lanes in Amsterdam, and only a mere two minute walk from Dam Square, you will find champagne and wine bar bubbles&wines. Their extensive collection consists of over 50 wines by the glass and 180 wines by the bottle.

Vijzelstraat 39

Nes 37

[map 106-f6]

[map 43-f4/5]

+31 (0)6 53726137

+31 (0)20 4223318 www.bubblesandwines.com

Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

Amsterdam

magazine

Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and

often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can

dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice-skating Ice-skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Genever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Genever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

Amsterdam

Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange

L Lekkerbek

magazine

P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution

(New Year’s Dive)

Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.

dutch a-z

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

V VOC

in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

(Dutch East India Company)

Water management

The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on

the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet (Black Pete)

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.

amsterdam sleeps

Conscious Hotel Vondelpark Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: Conscious Hotel Vondelpark

‘You’re quick,’ says the energetic manager while checking me in. ‘We only opened two weeks ago.’ He tells me about water-saving showers and huge soap bottles but is that what sustainability is all about? ‘We’ll let the building do the talking,’ he says. ‘Do you want some eco-lemonade? It’s really tasty.’ On our way to the bar we pass a closet full of sustainable showerheads, luxury eco-champagne and other eco-gadgets. ‘Everything is for sale. Look here, these cushions are made from second-hand embroidery. We bought them from old ladies. Isn’t that sustainable?’ Fortunately neither the cushions nor the other old-fashioned items (think: a weeping boy and a windmill) seem to be concerned that they have been reincarnated as hip furniture. Hype On the door of my room it says: Behind this door lies your own special kingdom where you make the rules. ‘So far, so good,’ I think as I enter the kingdom. A huge blow-up of flower details, tables made from leaves and a desk made from old fridges catch my eye. From the ceiling a small plant is hanging – upside down. Before going to bed I really feel the need to check whether the wine is

Amsterdam

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‘Sustainability is nothing but hype’ biological. Downstairs the bartender has a confession to make and it’s not about the wine. ‘That eco-hype is such bullshit. Many people come here because they want to book an affordable hotel. Sustainable or not; they don’t care. Everything has to be sustainable nowadays. It’s nothing but hype.’ Oh my... ‘That’s so not true! ’ I hear myself saying. ‘The only thing most other hotels do is ask you to re-use your towels. That’s got nothing to do with sustainability and everything with saving costs. To me the consumer seems ready. The question is: are you? ’ Now both the barman and myself are shocked by my flaming enthusiasm. Oh my God, what does this hotel do to me? Back in my room I find the soap and the toilet talking to me. There are funny texts on the wall. And when I’m lying down on my eco-rubber bed, nature and me finally become one. After a good night’s sleep I notice a salt and pepper set made entirely from cork. Yes, the owners’ passion for sustainability can be felt in every single detail. In front of the hotel I jump on a tram. No cab today.

Conscious Hotel Vondelpark Overtoom 519-521 +31 (0)20 8203333 www.conscioushotels.com Room Rate: from €79

photos courtesy of conscious hotel

onscious Hotel Vondelpark

is an eco-friendly design hotel. Sustainability, (without being too ‘hippy’) combined with humour and smart design. At least, that’s what their website says. I’m here to check it out.

Shhh... aMSTERDAM SLEEPS

amsterdam cocktail

Amsterdam Cocktail

players bar By Sarah moore

ocated near Leidseplein, this popular bar attracts locals and tourists alike. The bar has managed to successfully identify itself simultaneously as a cosy lounge and a happening nightclub. As day turns to night and the atmosphere evolves, one thing’s for sure: you can always get a good ‘Players Cocktail’.

Signature Drink When Players Bar first opened 14 months ago, they started with a logo. The iconic sign (ed., in which the “y” in “Players” is a brightblue cocktail) was the catalyst that led to the creation of their signature drink. ‘We came up with the logo first and had to make a drink to match it afterwards,’ says general manager Arnaud Eweg. The Players Cocktail was born. It’s slightly suspicious looking – in its electric blue martini glass, topped with a sweet cherry - but to my surprise it tastes delicious. The vodka, Cointreau, lime and Curaçao Bleu concoction has a mildly sweet flavour, with a pleasantly sour aftertaste. ‘Many firsttimers are surprised,’ Eweg admits. Now the Players Cocktail is actually quite popular, ranking in their top five ordered drinks. If you’re looking for something to further satisfy your sweet tooth, try the Scropino. This dessert cocktail has the consistency of a slushy ice drink and contains vodka, prosecco, and lemon sorbet with ice. Perfect to accompany a dessert or perhaps, given its sugary-thick consistency, as a stand-alone dessert itself.

Players Food & Drinks Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 25 Wed, Thurs, Sun: 12pm-1am, Fri & Sat: 12pm-3am Mon and Tuesdays, open for reservations +31 (0)20 4204069 www.playersamsterdam.nl [Map 142 - D3]

Amsterdam

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Want to relax in a luxury lounge and stay to dance the night away? Then join the fun and head over to Players Bar! The Night Crowd The vibe of this bar varies greatly depending on what time you enter. It serves coffee and lunch in the daytime, becomes a relaxed lounge bar for postwork drinks, and turns into a fully blown nightclub on weekends. Every Friday and Saturday night, the tables are carted off to make way for a bustling dance floor. By midnight, the bar is completely packed with a queue out the door. The music is loud and at 2am the place bears no resemblance to the relaxed café I had visited hours earlier. If you’re interested in a more cosy, relaxed atmosphere, it’s definitely advisable to visit on weekdays. However, if you want a buzzing club atmosphere (without an entrance fee) at the weekend, this is the place for you.

Luxury Café Though there is another Players Bar in Amsterdam, the staff insist that each bar has its own unique identity. ‘They are owned by the same person and the name is the same, but everything else is different,’ says head bartender Fadel N’daw. The original bar, located in the Red Light District, is a sports bar aimed at tourists while the latest bar (the one at Leidseplein) caters to a mixed crowd and is slightly more upscale. Their aim is to combine the atmosphere of a stylish New York lounge bar with the cosy elements of Amsterdam. Arnaud explains: ‘In Amsterdam, people like the cosy bruin cafés. We want to keep this feeling but add a little class.’

amsterdam cocktail

general manager

Arnaud Eweg What’s your favourite Classic Cocktail? I like a Daiquiri. It’s simple: just rum and lime. What do you think of tiki cocktails? Too much work and a mix of too many tastes. I like simple cocktails with one or two liquors. People here like to order simple cocktails. Do you use premixed juices? No, everything is freshly made here. What’s the fastest cocktail you can make? Caipirinha. What’s your favourite bar in Amsterdam? Het Paardje in de Pijp. It’s a really small, local bruin café. There’s always something happening, you can go alone and have fun for the evening. What would a typical Amsterdam cocktail look like? People in Amsterdam have only been ordering cocktails in the last three years. So Amsterdam doesn’t have a typical cocktail. But I would say the mojito is the most popular right now.

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the golden keys

The Golden KeyS Are four or five star hotels a little beyond your budget? Don’t worry – here’s some five star advice from a top Amsterdam concierge.

OC K UNL CIT Y THE

BY: SARAH MOORE

you’re looking for something close by, check out De Negen Straatjes in the Jordaan district. There are lots of little boutiques showcasing beautiful Dutch design.

I want to take a canal cruise on a private boat. Can you suggest a better alternative to the big cruiser boats? If you want something classy, take the antique salon boat by the Amstel Hotel. You can even have a ‘running dinner’ with them, where you have a three-course dinner at three different restaurants. You can also rent an electric boat behind the Okura hotel and drive it yourself.

I’m craving something sweet, where can I get the best Dutch apple pie? Winkel 43 in the Jordaan district sells the best apple pie in Amsterdam. It tastes just like my grandmother’s pie. If you’re looking for Appel Schnitt, a more modern type of apple pie, go to Patisserie Kuyt on Utrechtsestraat.

I’m tired of sightseeing and just want to relax. Is there a good spa in this city?

Johan van beest Concierge at Crowne Plaza Amsterdam City Centre for 11 Years Advises around 50,000 guests per year

Each month Amsterdam Magazine interviews a hotel concierge associated with Les Clefs d’Or. Les Clefs d’Or members have dedicated many years of hard work and training to the concierge profession. They are experts on their cities. Whether requesting something simple or complex, you can be sure they are a trusted resource to business travellers and tourists alike. More information: www.hotelconcierge.nl

I want to see an authentic Dutch village. Where Should I go? My favourite village is Delft. It’s an authentic, very picturesque town rather like a small Amsterdam. The queen’s family is buried there and, of course, it’s most famous for traditional Delftware. You can go to the factory and check out how they make this beautiful blue and white pottery.

The Dutch are internationally known for spectacular design. Where can I go to see good Dutch Design? A very big design shop is Bloomberry, which is outside of the city in Diemen. There is also Arena Boulevard, a big mall with a lot of Dutch-designed furniture. If

I highly recommend Sento on Marnixplein. It’s clean, modern and offers amenities such as Turkish baths, facials, massages, and a very big sauna. They are located right next to a large indoor pool and offer a nice fitness room on top of the relaxation facilities.

Can you recommend a traditional cosy bruin café? Close to the hotel is the oldest bruin café in Amsterdam called De Karpershoek. Built in the early 1600s, they still have sand on the floor from when the sailors used to chew tobacco and used the sand to clean it up. A very cosy bar with a lot of history.

Where can I see interesting nature in Amsterdam? Of course Vondel Park and the Amsterdam forest are famous but I prefer Amstel Park. Located in south Amsterdam, it’s a good place to relax and walk around, and it’s quieter than the other parks.

MUSEUM CHECK

photos courtesy of hermitage

museum check

photo: Luuk Kramer

Amsterdam

Hermitage

photo: Luuk Kramer

By Allison Guy

What used to be a nursing home is now the largest offshoot of the Russian Hermitage. The current exhibition is all about the legacy of The Immortal Alexander the Great. Go or no go? We check it out!

The Amsterdam Hermitage is a new branch of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia. Opened as a museum in 2009, for over 300 years the stately Amstelhof building had functioned as a charitable home for the elderly. Retirement home for the poor In 1680, the wealthy merchant Barent Helleman found himself without an heir, and decided to bequeath his sizable fortune to the Deanery, a religious organisation. The Deanery used this vast sum to construct a retirement home for poor women. In a city of narrow canal houses and restrained tastes, the opening of the Amstelhof must have seemed an astonishing gesture of civic pride. It had the longest facade of any building in Amsterdam, with a central hall second in size only to the town hall on Dam Square. Four hundred women originally lived in the Amstelhof, all over the age of 50. The lives of the women were comfortable but frugal: an 1820 account describes a diet of cabbage and beans, with meat on the menu only once every two weeks.

Dramatic Change With the advent of modern healthcare, the Amstelhof’s directors decided the building was no longer adequate for its residents. The remaining residents were relocated, and between 2007 and 2009, the building underwent a dramatic transformation from nursing home into the Amsterdam Hermitage. While the facade has been restored to its 17th century elegance, the allwhite interior of the museum has been updated with a sleek, minimalist look. From Russia, with Art The museum hosts a temporary exhibit that changes twice a year, with all objects on loan from St. Petersburg. Since this exhibit occupies the bulk of the museum, your decision to commit to the €15 admission fee should depend on your interest in the theme. The current exhibit, The Immortal Alexander the Great (until 18 March) should entertain anyone interested in the boy conqueror’s legacy. At the Amsterdam exhibition you can see more than 350 masterpieces including the famous Gonzaga Cameo. If you feel like going, be sure to get there early, or on weekdays, as at the weekend the small side-galleries can quickly fill up with art admirers jostling for space. Amsterdam Hermitage Nieuwe Herengracht 14 +31 (0)20 5308755 www.hermitage.nl [Map 29 - g6]

The Amsterdam Dungeon Rokin 78 +31 (0)20 5308500 www.the-dungeons.nl [map 127-e5]

THE VERDICT

Liesbeth (66) & Tiny (71) Netherlands

There’s a really good use of multimedia and the church room is beautiful. Obviously they have a winner with the view of the Amstel! The kitchen area is interesting too, with all the talking projections. We expected to see more stuff given the size of the Hermitage, and a student rate would have been nice.

Meijken (22) Netherlands

What I like most about the museum is that it changes completely twice a year. This way you get a different crowd of people each time. The Alexander exhibition is nice, with lots of jewellery, but I liked the last one better. I would advise people to go, even if it’s just to see the building! Also, the exhibition isn’t very big, so you don’t have to stay all day.

Adam (27) & Adam (28) United States

We liked the ivory cameos and the big textiles best. And it was interesting to see how the cultures intersected. The audio tour was very handy and easy to use. You can walk while you listen and skip the reading.

Value for money: 3,5/5 Waiting time in line: Normally minimal, can be quite long for the twice-yearly exhibition openings.

wheelchair accessible, reflecting the museum’s past as

Free for children under 17 and for Museumkaart

a nursing home.

English. English-language tours of the building take

17th century building, good way to get a sense

place on Sundays at 2pm.

Manageable size makes it perfect for a break from sightseeing or for a relaxing afternoon. Be sure to

Child-friendly: For older children. The Children’s Hermitage is only open to local students.

check out the theme of the temporary exhibit before

Opening hours: Daily from 10am to 5pm, and until 8pm

you decide to visit, as there is little else to see. Museum

on Wednesdays. Closed on Christmas Day, New Year’s

shop has good selection of books and gifts related to

Day, and Queen’s Day.

the exhibits. The restaurant-café has a French-inspired

magazine

English-friendly: All Texts are in both Dutch and

Comments: Modern museum located in a gorgeous of Amsterdam’s centuries-old charitable works.

Amsterdam

Wheelchair-friendly: The museum is completely

Entrance: Adults €15, or €3 with IAmsterdam card. holders.

menu and a view of the garden.

column

Sex and de stad

Confessions of a Prostitute What’s it like to be a working girl? Lauren, an Amsterdam professional, reveals her deepest secrets. This issue: her first gig. - By Lauren -

I can barely remember the first time I had sex, but I can clearly recall my first paid date. While I don’t want to sugar coat the industry – beneath every cliché lies a kernel of truth – the idea that all ‘johns’ are horny sleazebags is about as close to reality as the notion that prostitution is a job of last resort.

Divorced with two kids >

For every Hugh Grant or Charlie Sheen type we have to put up with, there’s a cool customer who pays us in both cash and respect. Case in point is a guy I still see from time to time who I’ll call George. Besides upending my own preconceived notions of what a john is, George also opened my eyes to the fact that not every date involves actual sex.

‘Sure, a lot of guys want intercourse – even more prefer blowjobs’ Sure, a lot of guys want intercourse – even more prefer blowjobs – but there are some who just want to spend the evening in the company of a pretty girl. Before I went independent I started out working for an escort service (for all you wannabe ladies of the night it’s a good way to break into the business and build up both your experience and clientele). George was one of the agency’s regulars, so the manager knew that he knew how to behave.

George is a laid-back accountant from London in his forties, divorced with two kids that he adores. In other words, he’s someone who doesn’t fit the image of the hard-partying sex maniac I expected to have to screw when he phoned the service on my very first night.

Foot massage > After being picked up by a driver and dropped off at George’s boutique hotel I found Room 408 courtesy of a helpful concierge who gave me an unhelpful wink. The butterflies were hurling themselves against the walls of my stomach so by the time George answered my soft knock I must have looked as green as I was. Luckily, George swept me inside with his playful grin and sat me down on the plush beige couch. Then he told me that since it was my first time he thought we should get to know each other for an hour and see where things went. By no means should I do anything I didn’t feel comfortable with he added. Then he poured me a glass of wine and slyly asked if I’d like a foot massage while we talked. Strange as it may seem we spent two hours together that night and never had sex. It was only later that I came to realise that for George – who has a thing for high heels and pink toes – it was better than sex. As for me I can honestly say that my first paid ‘date’ was more enlightening than losing my virginity for free.

captured

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

CAPTURED By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

Cocoon Goes Amsterdam @Powerzone g

Photograper: Jan Vermeij

Special:

Amsterdam Dance Event With over 700 artists from all over the globe performing in 44 clubs, ADE’s festival has grown into the world’s biggest club festival for electronic music. It offers 2,500 business professionals and 100,000 music lovers a taste of the latest trends in the electronic music scene. For four nights in a row (October 20-23 2010) the Amsterdam Dance Festival took over Amsterdam’s hottest clubs. All ADE pictures are a courtesy of www.link2party.nl

Dirty Dutch vs CR2 @Club AIR g

Defected in the House @Panama g Photograper: Xolali Joval

Fedde Le Grand Takeover @panama g

Photograper: Frederik Jaeger

Photograper: Xolali Joval

03/10 Can you feel iT? - Club AIR

Minus Night @powerzone g

Photograpers: Xolali Joval & Baber Raja

Matching Models Launch (29 October)

Matching Models, the world famous modelling agency opened its doors in Amsterdam. An exclusive event, sponsored by HermĂ¨s and world-famous model Janice Dickinson, opened the party @ The House of Amsterdam

Michiel DĂśbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions organised events for Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

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upcoming

BLAZE BLAZE, labelled as ‘The street dance sensation’ is currently touring the Netherlands. The show is the brainchild of Dutch producer Eric Holman, who has teamed up with choreographer Anthony van Laast to bring 15 of the world’s best street- and break-dancers to the stage in a production unlike anything seen before. There’s no story to the show, instead just a series of Photo: Lucy Cullen exhilarating dance ensembles which are full of energy and When: 5 December incredibly executed. Almost as Where: Koninklijk Theatre Carré impressive as the dancers is Admission: From €15 to €35 www.blazetheshow.com the backdrop and the projection effects used throughout the show. In the words of the producers ‘BLAZE is a combination of a West End theatre show mixed with the feel of a nightclub and the energy of a pop concert.

Image: Club 8

Silent Disco Club 8 will host a Silent Disco on 18 December. The silent disco concept has spread throughout music festivals across Europe and is now being introduced in nightclubs. Each guest receives a set of headphones and can choose the type of music they like. They are, in a sense, their own DJ and can dance to their favourite beats alongside hundreds of other guests dancing to their personal choice of tunes. Honorary guests The G-Team and Auiliart Tha Masterfader & Martin Le Rock will select the music for the evening. When: 18 December Where: Club 8, Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b Admission: €10 www.club-8.nl

By Blair Larkin

/DECEMBERGIGS Wednesday 1 Katie Melua, Heineken Music Hall 20:00, €45 Electric Six, Melkweg 20:30, €15 + membership Brian McKnight, Escape 22:00, €30 Dutch Jazz & World Meeting 2010, Bimhuis The opening night of the festival with Duo Lee Konitz & Guus Janssen followed by The Ex, Afework Nigussie and Wolter Wierbos. 21:00, €16

Thursday 2 Disturbed, Heineken Music Hall 8:40, €40 Light Of Day Tour, Paradiso Help raise money for Parkinson’s disease with this tour featuring Joe D’Urso, Alejandro Escovedo and Willie Nile. 20:00, €20 Osaka Monaurail, Paradiso Energetic nine-piece funk band from Osaka, Japan. 23:00, €12 + membership Dutch Jazz & World Meeting 2010, Sugar Factory Featuring Izaline Calister, The Plocones, Arifa and more. 20:00, €20 Tuur Moens & Sydicate & Erman Dirickan Trio, Badcuyp 21:30. €8

Friday 3 The Frames, Paradiso 20:30, €20 + membership The Warlocks, Paradiso 22:15, €10 + membership Dutch Jazz & World Meeting 2010, Sugar Factory Featuring Lackritz, Ambush Party & more. 20:00, €20.

Saturday 4

Macy Gray

Waylon, Paradiso 19:30, €14 + membership

The funky Grammy-awardwinning soul singer Macy Gray returns to Amsterdam shortly after releasing her fifth album The Sellout.

Autolux, Paradiso 20:00, €12 + membership

When: 21 December Where: Melkweg Admission: €32.50 + membership www.melkweg.nl

The Rural Alberta Advantage, Paradiso Canadian indie rock band The Rural Alberta Advantage come to town to play songs from their debut album Hometowns. 22:00, €8 + membership Holy Fuck, Melkweg This Canadian band has an unusual approach to making electronica, using instruments and just about anything they can get their hands on to create original electronic sound effects. 20:00, €15 + membership Moss, Melkweg 20:30, €13 + membership

De Nazaten & Toninho Ferragutti, Tropentheater Surinamese-influenced jazz band De Nazaten’s new project is devoted to Brazilian genres ‘frevo’ and ‘forro’. 20:30, €23 Doek Festival #9, Bimhuis An evening of jazz with Available Jelly, The Ambush Party, Wollo’s World, The Thing and The Gap. 16:00, €18

Sunday 5 Israel Vibration, Paradiso Roots reggae trio Israel Vibration formed in the late 1970s and have gone on to release over 20 albums, so expect a wide range of songs from these Jamaican legends. 21:00, €25 + membership Shantel & Bucovina Club Orkestra, Melkweg German-born Shantel is known for remixing traditional Balkan music with electronic beats. Playing alongside the Bucovina Club Orkestra, this is guaranteed to be an entertaining night. 21:00, €21 + membership

Monday 6 Brussels Jazz Orchestra & Kenny Werner, Bimhuis This American jazz pianist has teamed up with the Brussels Jazz Orchestra. Guaranteed to be a good night for jazz lovers. 20:15, €23 Julie Doiron, Paradiso 19:00, €8 + membership The Hundreds & Bodi Bill, Paradiso €10 + membership DJ Premier & Royce Da 5’9, Sugar Factory 19:30, €15

Tuesday 7 Thomas Dybdahl, Paradiso Two shows: 19:00 & 21:30, €17 + membership Fistful Of Mercy, Paradiso After forming in February this year, this group consisting of Ben Harper, Dhani Harrison and Joseph Arthur released their debut album in October. 20:30, €35 + membership An Pierlé & White Velvet, Melkweg 20:30, €17 + membership

Wednesday 8 Weird Al Yankovic, Paradiso 20:30, €27 + membership

Thursday 9 Bell X1, Amstelkerk Irish rock band who have received critical acclaim worldwide. 20:30, €14

upcoming

Stevie Ann, Melkweg 20:30, €13 + membership Mäsräp, Tropentheater Uyghur folk music from Eastern Turkistan. Expect an arsenal of traditional bowed, strummed and percussive instruments. 20:30, €17

Friday 10 The Sore Losers, Paradiso 20:00, €8.50 + membership Gonjasufi, Paradiso 21:00, €14 + membership

Photo: Joris-Jan Bos | Holiday on Ice

When: 4-12 December Where: RAI Admission: From €32 www.holidayonice.nl

Holiday on Ice This year’s theme for Holiday on Ice is ‘Spirit of The World’. The show combines the ice with the four elements: fire, water, earth and air, and features tastes of Asia, Native American traditions, and the Celtic reel. A combination of acrobatics, skating and foot-tapping dance will all be showcased against the backdrop of an international spiritual realm.

Sonic Warfare, Melkweg A night of dub-step with Mount Kimbie, Scuba and more. 23:00, €11 + membership Blaudzun, Sugar Factory 20:00, €11 + membership Eric Vloeimans, Bimhuis 20:30, €20 Rocio Marquez, Tropentheater Flamenco songs from this star from the south of Spain. 20:30, €19

Saturday 11 Golden Earring, Heineken Music Hall 20:30, €20

World Christmas Circus

Dave Liebman Group, Bimhuis 20:30, €20

For more than 25 years, the World Christmas Circus has been entertaining the Netherlands with internationally acclaimed circus artists from around the world. This year, China’s ‘golden clown’ winners, trapeze acts, flying parrots and horses are among the spectacular acts. When: 16 December – 2 January Where: Carré Theatre Admission: €15-€51 www.theatercarre.nl

Mamane Barka & Solo Dja Kabaco, Tropentheater This concert brings two exceptional artists to the stage, presenting some of Africa’s wealth of musical traditions. 20:30, €17

Sunday 12 Nil Karaibrahimgil, Paradiso 21:00, €20 + membership Thrashfest Tour 2010, Melkweg Thrash-metal concert featuring Kreator, Exodus, Death Angel and Suicidal Angels. 19:00, €26 + membership Photo: World Christmas Circus

Tangomagia! Between Christmas and the new year, tangueros and tangueras from all over the world will be heading to Amsterdam. The festival features a line-up of tango maestros from Argentina and Europe who will perform shows. In addition to this there will be various workshops throughout the festival during the day and a daily tango café.

Photo: Gaston & Moira - Tangomagia

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When: 27-30 December Where: Various locations in the city Admission: Varies www.tangomagia.com

Best Coast & Sky Larkin, Bitterzoet 21:00, €12 Bonga, Tropentheater Folk and semba singer/songwriter originally from Angola. 15:00, €23

Monday 13 Gentleman & The Evolution, Paradiso 20:30, €28.50 + membership Konrad Kosseleck Big Band, Bimhuis KKBB are known for their unique combination of jazz, pop, rock, funk, Latin and even classical. 20:30, €15

Wednesday 15 Bertolf Lentink, Paradiso 20:00, €12.50 + membership Jamie Cullum, Paradiso 20:30, €40+ membership Angus & Julia Stone, Melkweg 20:30, €22.50 + membership

Thursday 16 De Dijk, Paradiso 20:30, €25 + membership Numoon Prequel, Melkweg A prequel to the Numoon festival in Rotterdam with bands Crappy Dog and Stoma. 19:30, €12.50 + membership

Friday 17 De Dijk, Paradiso 20:30, €25 + membership The Drums, Melkweg American indie band influenced by bands like Joy Division, The Wake and The Smiths. 20:30, €12.50 + membership Puerto Canderlaria, Tropentheater Regarded as one of the best jazz ensembles in Colombia, Puerto Candelaria play modern Colombian jazz. 20:30, €23 Estrella Guajira, Bimhuis Cuban singer Estrella Guajira and friends with music from her homeland. 20:30, €15

Saturday 18 Janelle Monae, Melkweg Discovered by Outkast’s Big Boi, American singer Janelle Monae sings soul and hip-hop influenced pop music. 20:30, €18 + membership De Dijk, Paradiso €25 + membership No Blue, Paradiso A mixture of American folk-blues and Arabic music from this unique Dutch band. 20:00, €10 + membership The Jolly Boys, Melkweg With more than five decades of playing together, this Jamaican mento band know how to put on a good show. 20:30, €15 + membership Van Ruller, Roelofs & van der Feen, Bimhuis Dutch contemporary jazz guitarist Jesse van Ruller is a winner of the prestigious Thelonius Monk award. He is accompanied by internationally renowned saxophone and clarinet player Joris Roelofs and bass player Clemens van der Feen. 20:30, €18

Tuesday 14

Sunday 19

Bonobo, Paradiso €15 + membership

Emily Jane White, Paradiso 15:30, €9 + membership

The Ghost Of A Saber Tooth Tiger, Paradiso A collaborative duo featuring Sean Lennon and his partner Charlotte Kemp Muhl. Both play multiple instruments and sing in harmony. 20:30, €12 + membership

Mykal Rose, Melkweg 21:00, €19 + membership Ig Henneman Sextet, Bimhuis Viola player and composer Ig Henneman and her sextet pay tribute to musicians that have inspired her. 16:00, €18

upcoming

/NEWYEAR’SEVE Monday 20 Jurk, Paradiso Dutch comedy/pop duo whose debut album Avondjurk was a big hit in the Netherlands. 20:30, €20 + membership Ozark Henry, Melkweg Belgian musician Ozark Henry has been making melodic pop songs for over ten years. He released his sixth album Hvelreki in October this year. 20:30, €17 + membership Kristina Fuchs Meets Christian Kappe Quartet, Bimhuis A night with Swiss jazz singer Kristina Fuchs, German pianist Marc Brenken and the Christian Kappe Quartet. 20:30, €12

Tuesday 21 Caro Emerald, Heineken Music Hall Dutch jazz singing sensation Caro Emerald’s debut album Deleted Scenes From The Cutting Room Floor broke records this year when it spent 28 weeks at the top of the Dutch album charts. 20:30, €29.50 Macy Gray, Melkweg 20:30, €32.50 + membership

Wednesday 22 Caro Emerald, Heineken Music Hall 20:30, €29.50 Hans Teeuwen & The Painkillers, Melkweg Dutch comedian turned singer Hans Teeuwen is joined by some of the Netherlands’ best jazz musicians for his last show of the year. A mix of jazz, blues, rock ‘n’ roll and even country. 20:00, €20 + membership Triggerfinger, Paradiso Belgian rock band whose shows have received rave reviews around the world. 20:30, €16 + membership Rigby, Paradiso Rock and pop from the Dutch band. 20:00, €11 + membership

Thursday 23 Caro Emerald, Heineken Music Hall 20:30, €29.50

HQ Classics Edition, Melkweg A night of classic HQ house music from 1995-2005 with DJs Dave Randall, Fausto, JP and more. 22:30, €20 + membership

Sunday 26 The Paradiso Orchestra, Paradiso A festive Christmas show. 16:00, €20

Monday 27 Gotcha! Melkweg Dutch funk band who play a mixture of sixties trip-rock with funk and hip-hop. 21:00, €17.50 + membership

Tuesday 28 The Voice of Holland, Heineken Music Hall Check out the latest up and coming Dutch talent at this live performance of Dutch talent show The Voice of Holland. 19:30, €35 Destine, Melkweg 20:00, €10 + membership Erika Stucky & Roots of Communication, Bimhuis Eccentric American-Swiss vocalist performing with alphorn trio Roots of Communication. 20:30, €20 The Voice of Holland, Heineken Music Hall 19:30, €35

Wednesday 29 The Voice of Holland, Heineken Music Hall 19:30, €35 Ad van der Veen & Ian Matthews, Paradiso Dutch singer/songwriter Ad van der Veen teams up with English musician Ian Matthews for this show. Expect a mix of folk, rock, roots and country. 20:30, €10 + membership Top Notch Extravaganza, Melkweg Dutch Record label Top Notch celebrates its 15th anniversary with a show featuring Sticks, Rico & Typhoon and Zo Moeilijk. 20:00, €40 + membership

Triggerfinger, Paradiso 20:30, €16 + membership

New Cool Collective, Bimhuis This eight-piece band plays a mix of jazz, salsa, afrobeat and boogaloo. 20:30, €20

13, Paradiso Dutch rock band 13 are touring shortly after releasing their debut album which for some reason is titled 11. 20:00, €11 + membership

Top Notch Extravaganza, Melkweg 20:00, €25 + membership

Conjunto Tres Dos, Badcuyp Five-piece band from Cuba with a unique mix of Cuban music from the fifties and sixties. 21:30, €8

Friday 24 Creole Choir of Cuba, Paradiso Ten-piece vocal and percussion ensemble from Cuba whose live shows have been described as ‘phenomenal’. 20:30, €17.50 + membership

Thursday 30

Van Dik Hout, Paradiso 20:30, €22.50 + membership The Tunes, Paradiso 22:00, €8 + membership Georgie Fame, Bimhuis British jazz and blues singer Georgie Fame with the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw. 20:30, €20

Thursday 31 / NYE

It’s all listed here ]

Looking for a fun way to greet to 2011? From psychedelic neon parties, speakeasies of the roaring twenties to good old-fashioned street parties, you’re guaranteed to have an unforgettable evening in this lively city!

BimHuis Addis Amsterdam: Ethiopian-themed music, dance, food and fireworks! Admission: €28/ €45 including Ethiopian buffet Where: Piet Heinkade 3 www.bimhuis.nl Club 8 An all-night party featuring DJs, firecrackers, table pool and more! DJs: All Super Team Style: DJ Random & Baltic Bastian, The Fireworks DJs, and ROBOT ROCK. Admission: €30 Where: Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b www.club-8.nl Club Air Club Air will host a Hollywoodthemed party entitled ‘Can You Feel It’, DJs MayDay, Jean, Brian S. and Bunty will play till five in the morning! Admission: €50 Where: Amstelstraat 24 www.air.nl Club Escape An all-night electronic and house party with 10 DJs. Also offering a 5-course dinner before the party. Admission: €60 Where: Rembrandtplein 11 www.escape.nl Club Trouw A night of International DJs: Koze (Pampa, Hamburg) The Mole (Wagon Repair, Berlin), Melon (Trouw, Amsterdam), Boris Werner (Trouw, Remote Area, Amsterdam), Sandrien (Trouw, Amsterdam), Olaf (Trouw, Amsterdam) Admission: €35 Where: Wibautstraat 127 www.trouwamsterdam.nl Heinken Music Hall A Q-dance Hard style Qountdown to the New Year! A black-tie and cocktail party till 7am. Admission: €52 Where: Arena Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl

Jimmy Woo A night combining the elements of Rough & Chic. The Rough portion of the evening includes DJs Sem Vox, Youri Alexander and Mitchell Niemeyer. The Chic section offers elegant table service for an enjoyable, classy evening. Admission: €45-€55 Where: Jimmy Woo, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 www.jimmywoo.com Melkweg If you love electronic music, this is for you. Three different electro parties will take place at Melkweg: Dekmantel, NON Night and The Max: Wicked Jazz Sounds. Champagne bars and relaxing lounge areas will also be provided. Admission: €40 Where: Lijnbaansgracht 234 /A www.melkweg.nl Paradiso A psychedelic neon party! Black lights, body paint and more! A variety of DJs and live performances throughout the night. Dress code: Psychedelic day-glo! Admission: €42.50 Where: Weteringschans 6 www.paradiso.nl Sugarfactory This year’s theme is ‘Harlem Nights’, when the club will be transformed into a ballroom from the roaring twenties. Eclectic music featuring DJs: Deejay Cream, Fanny West, Filthy Jerks, Jane Doe, Tjek MC, MC William Brown, and VJ SjocoSjon. Admission: Pre-Sale €30, Door €35 Where: Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl

HAPPY NEW YEAR! If you’re just in the mood for outdoor sensory overload, join thousands of others in one of Amsterdam’s three main squares: Dam Square, Nieuwmarkt or Museumplein for a giant fireworks celebration!

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Framed!

BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

Nieuwezijdskolk, 28 October 2010

A friend of mine tapped me on the shoulder, saying: ‘Look there, how funny,’ pointing to a scantily-clad man whose manhood was covered in leather. One of his gay friends who was waiting outside overheard her and answered: ‘That’s not funny. That’s horny.’ Inside the building a gay party was going on.

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Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!