Amsterdam Magazine no 11 - July 2011 by Amsterdam Magazine

€4.95

Yes, I’m free!

m a g a z i n e

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

Interview:

‘Move over PlÁcido Domingo!’ Where to go?

Chilling, swimming, sailing at the Loosdrechtse Plassen

Sons of God

Ways to Impress a Dutch Girl

Amsterdam’s football team back on top

And: Sound Garden - Celeb Fantasies - Hortus Botanicus - Pimp my Bike - Expo: Nocturnal Delight - Dutch Treat - and much more!

featured Sons of God: a football comeback interview

14 19 46 67

Meet the Dutch: Move over Plácido Domingo! Word on the street: What’s your favourite summer pastime? Foreign exchange: Raising the Dead through robotics Unlock the city: The inside scoop on sustainable living

reportage 68 30 48

pimp my bike: ‘The last thing I want is a Barbie bike!’ Knock Knock: Living without luxury getting around: Swimming, chilling and sailing at Loosdrecht

reviewed 65 80 35

Magnified: Yosha Fashion wet your whistle: Sound Garden amsterdam eats: Caffè Toscanini

Column 79 82

Sex and de Stad: Celebrity fantasies Framed: By Thomas Schlijper

Fashion 36

It’s a jungle out there!

ART & Design 29 54

Made in holland: Choices Expo: Hans Withoos’ deadly sins

the guide 60

Dutch A-Z

the regular 7 8 10

letter from the editor SPAMSTERDAM heads-up: News from the city

more...

16 52 72 76

dutch treat: Pannekoeken The Ten: How to score a Dutch girl captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed

letter

With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Cees van der Steenstraten

Letter from the Editor

Football! love it, or hate it

Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com

I’m the typical kind of girl who doesn’t understand a thing about football. After years of watching games – dressed head to toe in orange – among friends who are drinking beer and

Sales and Account Executive: Kris Soehawan kris@amsterdam-magazine.com

eating bitterballen, I still don’t know what the offside rule is.

Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com

An imaginary moving line... come again? Hooligans shouting ‘Jews’; a

Social Media: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Interns: Marieke van den Berg marieke@amsterdam-magazine.com Caroline Goralczyk caroline@amsterdam-magazine.com We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Front Cover: Johan Cruijff - Ajax Images Contributors Richard Bakker, Morgan Currie, Michiel Döbelman, Caroline Goralczyk, Allison Guy, Tommy Hagen, Simone Hoang, Anita Jolles, Inge de Lange, Blair Larkin, Evert-Jan Pol, Mike Peek, Benjamin Roberts, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Marieke van den Berg, Lauren Wissot, Hans Withoos Special thanks to Jarred Alterman, Barbara van Amelsfort, Roy Angelo, Hortus Botanicus, Sound Garden, Kevin Keepers, Debora Leeser, Rei Nilde, Fredrik and Carline Regner, Herve Seeuws, Jo Hedwig Teeuwisse, Luke and Sam Thomson, Toscanini, Mette te Velde, Jackie Williams, Christiaan Zwanikken Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com. Distributed for free in the Netherlands

depressing night after a disappointing outcome… not my cup of tea. It hasn’t always been this way though. In high school I was part of the glorious football team. Eleven girls, 12 years old… we even won a cup. I dreamt of a career in football. Skidding across a green field, tackling the opponent, scoring in front of thousands of cheering people: who wouldn’t enjoy that? But when I asked my mum about it later that night, she explicitly replied: ‘Football is not for girls.’ I guess that’s when my defence mechanism set in. As Melissa Etheridge once put it: ‘If I can’t love you, I

don’t want to love you.’ Yes, a sad story. Especially since the (winning) Amsterdam players have become ‘Sons of God’ once again (and I missed the party). Perhaps it’s time to learn our featured story by heart and reconsider. Sometimes old love doesn’t rust.

Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief

Printed at Grafius BV / Infopress Group Recycle this magazine by passing it on! --------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011 Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------

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When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways!

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/amsterdammag LetsmeetSue: @amsterdammag you are invited to join us this Saturday. @rinamushonga will be giving an intimate concert @hotelv starting at 8 pm. AlexandraMarie: Favorite Amsterdam read!! RT: Morning Amsterdam. The June edition of the mag is now online! http://j.mp/i6fOfq RNW: Info+recipe=interesting! Read all about liquorice: #Dutch obsession that foreigners hate! http://bit.ly/mMRdLq

Geoff J. Kim: Early to bed in order to get up and out for Creative Company Conference tomorrow courtesy of Amsterdam Magazine Cheryl Kern: Oh, how I wish I could go back. My heart will always be in Amsterdam Phil Thompson: I had such a great time in Amsterdam. I look forward to returning

Amsterdam Magazine > Grab a copy of the latest issue here (during office hours there’s a display outside) 11 √ Door 74 > ”In fact you’ve walked into the exclusive realm of Amsterdam’s finest cocktail bar.” 7√ Torture Museum > ”Because of the dark and cramped spaces, you are better off visiting on a quiet day, when the groups are smaller.” 7√ Café de Jaren > Beautiful building but can be quite busy and the service can be sluggish at times. In the summer, go straight to the terrace and order one of their amazing smoothies. 6√

spamsterdam

Sp@msterdam What you shared with us...

What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...

From: Eva Cassarino Date: Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 4:17 PM Subject: Reading magazines To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Dear Amsterdam Magazine, Two months ago I still lived in Italy (Sicily, to be precise) where I had my favourite magazine for relaxing and learning. Then, in April, I arrived in Amsterdam where I finished my last copy. Now I need to find another mag, I thought. One morning somebody brought dozens of magazines to the reception of my hostel. ‘It will be only advertising,’ I said to myself, taking my first copy of Amsterdam Mag...I fell in love! I have a new favourite magazine, it’s free, and I use it as an excuse to visit new cafes too, looking for the latest issues. Eva

From: Frans Damman Date: Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 7:17 PM Subject: Are you an Individual? To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Yesterday I saw the June issue of Amsterdam Magazine and I really loved the piece ‘Are you an individual’ by Caroline Goralcyk. Teasing quotes from Mr. Enrique Marty and very nice to read! Thanks for that.

From: Bill Piccolo Date: Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 6:16 PM Subject: funny comment To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com As a long time resident of the Netherlands I like your new American style glossy magazine over Amsterdam. Nice! However I had to laugh my head off when I saw that 2 very young teenage tourists had called the people in Amsterdam ‘very friendly and open minded’! With all the news in the Dutch and international press about just how unfriendly many Dutch nationals really are, and of course, the news around the world about the PVV and Geert Wilders being one of THE most popular political parties in Holland, I can hardly believe what I am reading. We saw Geert on national television in the US, he was calling the prophet Mohammed a paedophile on the BBC. Yes, very ‘open minded’ indeed. It certainly does provide some entertainment for myself and many other expats that know a very different side of the Dutch and Dutch culture. Thanks for yet another amusing moment provided by the population of this strange little country. Other than this complete misrepresentation of your country and its people, I think you all have made a nice effort. The mag contains some good informative well-written articles. Kind regards, Bill Piccolo

Kind regards, We have a winner! Frans Damman

Next month we’ll read through all the spam and select one Email of the month. so get creative with your words, maybe even attach a picture of your stay in amsterdam, or bribe us with pancakes... Email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com for the chance to win great prizes!

Dear Bill, Lighten up! There are good guys and bad guys everywhere. Luckily we’re man enough to deal with it (although not every Dutch man votes PVV). So, keep up the spirit and spread the word of love. Need some inspiration? Soon the sweet whispers of opera singer Roy Angelo aka Mr. Romantic will be landing on your doormat. Meanwhile try reading our section ‘Meet the Dutch’ (page 14). Peace!

Heads-up news from the city

By Evert-Jan Pol

Pay for food with objects

Going out for dinner costs money. But at James Wattstraat 75 there’s now a restaurant where you can pay with objects. Four dinner plates will get you a starter, and four glasses could be enough for a glass of wine. The restaurant is United Tastes of 1097 (1097 being the restaurant’s postcode). Even if you have nothing to trade a meal won’t break the bank. A three-course menu is available for €15. The meals are prepared by disadvantaged young people who want to work in restaurants. More information: unitedtastesof. com Source: AT5 Photo: United Taste of 1097

‘Sluts’ demand sexual freedom Around 500 flamboyantly dressed people took part in the ‘Slutwalk’ on Saturday, 4 June to celebrate sexual freedom. They walked from the gay monument at the Westermarkt to Spui. Participants (both male and female) wearing short skirts, dresses, wigs and fishnet tights carried banners bearing slogans such as ‘Sluts are hot’ and ‘Slut power’. The first Slutwalk in the Netherlands was organised by American activist Anna Justine Weick, who studies gender and sexuality at the University of Amsterdam. The Slutwalk in Amsterdam follows previous events in Canada and the United States. It all began after a Toronto police officer said last year that women should dress more conservatively, or consider themselves to blame for sexual assault or rape. The Slutwalk in Amsterdam was the first in Europe. Source: RTV N-H Photo: Bert Kommerij

heads-up

Sculpture route

IJtunnel closed for almost two months The IJtunnel will be closed to cars during the daytime for almost two months due to fire safety maintenance. The tunnel will be shut from the evening of Friday, 8 July until the morning of Monday, 5 September. During that time it will only be open to city and intercity buses, taxis and emergency services. All other daytime traffic must take a detour through the Piet Hein Tunnel, the Zeeburgertunnel, the Coentunnel or the Schellingwouderbrug. Cars will still be able to use the tunnel between 9pm and 6am.

An elephant on stilts, a woman with a beard and a man riding a turtle. These are just some of more than 50 sculptures on the Artzuid Sculpture Route in Amsterdam Zuid. Artzuid is a biennial sculpture route running along stately lanes near Amsterdam Zuid station. This year’s exhibition is compiled by Dutch author and artist Jan Cremer. The sculpture route is a free event and is open to the public until 28 August. A map is available from the information desk in front of the Hilton Hotel at Apollolaan 138. A walk along the entire route takes about two and a half hours. More information: www.artzuid.nl Source: simplyamsterdam.nl

Source: AT5

First electric taxis in Amsterdam

Taxicentrale Amsterdam (TCA) has recently extended its fleet with ten electric taxis. This is in response to new measures presented by the city council to improve Amsterdam’s air quality. TCA spokesman Richard van der Veen said: ‘We’re starting with ten taxis, but we hope to increase that number in the near future. The consumer today is more critical and more aware than before, and this includes sustainable taxis’. The taxis can be recharged at special taxi charging stations, as well as regular charging stations. If the city of Amsterdam has its way, 450 electric taxis will be driving around in 2015.

Amsterdam wants more expensive train tickets on Queen’s Day If it’s up to Amsterdam city council, people who visit the city by train on the national holiday Queen’s Day (30 April) will pay a surcharge on their train ticket. The many visitors on that day always leave a lot of rubbish behind, and the surcharge will help to pay for the clean-up operation. Alderman Lodewijk Asscher thinks an extra €1 or €2 should be enough. According to the national train company NS, however, the proposal is unfeasible because the company is bound by law. ‘We can’t just raise the rates,’ a spokesman said. ‘Moreover, it is very undesirable. We always try to keep the rates low on Queen’s Day, so that as few people as possible will visit the city by car.’ Source: AT5 Photo:Sarah Moore

Source: Amsterdam.nl

Stedelijk Museum clock tells time again

Summer nights in Artis This summer every Saturday evening it’s ZOOmeravond (summer night) in Royal Artis Zoo. Until sunset the evening is filled with comedy, theatre and music. Carrier cycles and stalls offering bread, wine, soft drinks, olives and other snacks are located throughout the zoo. Children can get a knapsack made of twigs that elephants and other animals have played with. The bag is filled with all kinds of yummy things. Choose a spot on the grass between the trees or on a bench in the sun and enjoy a picnic at the zoo.

Now it’s easy to tell the time at Museumplein – the clock on the historical Stedelijk Museum building is working again. It has been out of action for some time due to restoration work on the building. Both the clock and the building date back to 1895. The museum maintains the timepiece itself, from within. Below the clock is a small hatch to the bell tower. Source: RTV N-H Photo: bMA

Source: Royal Artis Zoo Photo: Royal Artis Zoo

heads-up

The Hangover 3 in Amsterdam?

The Hangover Part II is still running in cinemas, but there are already talks about yet another sequel. The third part might be filmed in Amsterdam. One of the stars of the films, Zach Galifianakis, disclosed this during an interview with Rolling Stone magazine. Galifianakis added that his character will end up in a mental institution, and will have to be rescued by his friends. Co-star Jamie Chung thinks Amsterdam would be a good choice for the next hangover city. ‘If you think of the coolest, craziest cities in the world, Las Vegas, Bangkok and Amsterdam come to mind.’ Co-star Justin Bartha agrees: ‘Amsterdam would guarantee a completely different hangover’. Source: Parool Photo: Splashtours

University in Canal Parade

Did you know that:

Nearly half of all journeys in Amsterdam are made by bike?

UvA Pride, the gay network of the University of Amsterdam, has started a fundraiser to be able to participate in this year’s Canal Parade. If enough money is raised, the University of Amsterdam will be the first university ever to participate in the annual Gay Pride boat parade. ‘The fact that the Gay Pride organisation has given us a wild card shows that it considers it important that educational institutions speak out for gay rights more often,’ said Martijn van Veen, board member of UvA Pride. Fundraising is necessary because the university does not financially support the participation. ‘We regret that,’ he added, ‘but we also understand that the university has other priorities in these difficult financial times’. Source: Parool

Interested in a T-shirt with Ripinky’s design? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com for more information.

meet the dutch

Roy Angelo Opera Singer

‘I feel limited by being directed.’

He started playing violin at four, cello at six, piano at eight and singing at 16. Now he performs for the likes of Bill Clinton. By Benjamin Roberts

ff stage Roy Angelo, 44, is actually quite shy, but when singing at Amsterdam’s annual Prinsengracht Canal Concert or performing for celebs like Bill Clinton, he feels perfectly at ease. With his smooth baritone voice singing in Italian, French, Spanish and even Russian, people from all over the world invite him to their milestone events. ‘I sing at baptisms, weddings, on Valentine’s Day, and yes,’ he admits, ‘even at funerals’. Sold Angelo grew up in the eastern part of the Netherlands and was passionate about music from a very young age. He

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had his first singing lesson at 16. ‘When most teenage boys were interested in pop music I was listening to Frank Sinatra who offered more range and musical depth than disco.’ His singing tutor recommended a professional career, but – not convinced music was his direction in life – Angelo decided to study economics instead. It’s not until he met Dutch opera singer Anneke van der Graaff (1920-2009), who made such a great impact on him, that he changed his mind. ‘I love the combination of singing and acting,’ he says. ‘Opera is acting too. When I realised that I was sold’.

meet the dutch

Don Juan Angelo dropped out of economics school and enrolled in Amsterdam’s conservatory where he studied voice and specialised in opera. He spent his summer holidays in countries such as Italy, France and Austria to soak up the language and culture. ‘In that period, I was consumed by the arts. Especially visual arts, language and music.’

‘Baptisms, weddings, and yes, even funerals’ Shortly before graduation, he auditioned for the musical Phantom of the Opera. Not because he dreamt of becoming one of its stars. ‘God no. We snubbed musicals at the conservatory,’ he says. ‘That wasn’t considered serious art at all,’ but to get some audition experience. ‘The moment I walked out onto the large stage, surrounded by almost 2,000 seats and was asked to sing a piece from Mozart’s Don Juan Triumphant, I

realised this was what I wanted to do with my life.’ Going solo Luckily the judging panel felt the same: Angelo got the role and suddenly he found himself performing for three years in a Joop van den Ende production at the Circus Theatre in Scheveningen (1993-1996). ‘I love big productions,’ he says, ‘but I felt limited by being directed. I prefer to direct myself.’ In the past five years, Angelo has been doing just that: he’s gone solo and believes that he’s found himself. Last month he released his latest CD Romantic Voices. ‘It’s a compilation of my favourite singers, from Plácido Domingo to Sarah Brightman and Susan Boyle. Next month I’ll be singing their songs at a wedding in Tuscany. La vita è bella!’ I’m sure it is, for a guy who’s better known as Mister Romantic.

dutch treat

Dutch Treat

Pannekoeken TEXT BY Allison Guy

You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice. But what about pannekoeken?

Dutch Pancakes

ancakes are intimately associated with Holland. While pancakes have been around since flour and fire first met, a 16th century Dutch cook is responsible for the first pannekoeken recipe on record. Given their status as a national comfort food, there’s nowhere in the Netherlands that’s too far from a pancakemaking establishment.

Dutch pannekoeken take the breakfast standard and jack it up to a full, button-popping meal. As wide as a pizza, they’re thicker than French crêpes, but thinner than American flapjacks. They’re better fare for dinner than for the first meal of the day; in fact, most pancake cafés in Holland don’t even open until lunchtime. Bring a knife and fork Pannekoeken can be topped with anything edible, from mounds of Gouda cheese to slices of bacon or apple. Syrup is a requirement for sweet pancakes, but even the savoury versions are livened up with stroop, a dark, almost bitter-tasting syrup that’s similar to treacle. With their flying-saucer size and mound of toppings, Dutch pancakes are best eaten with a knife and fork. If you’re feeling a little more hands-on, it’s perfectly acceptable to roll the pancake like a syrupy cigar and munch away. Mini-me pancakes Poffertjes are the cuter members of the Dutch pancake pantheon. A little larger than a two-euro coin, they’re fluffy with yeast and chewy with buckwheat flour. Served with butter

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s Try thi ! at h o m e

For this recipe, haul out the biggest frying pan you have. Dutch pannekoeken are the diameter of a dinner plate. The batter will work equally well for smaller pancakes, but it’s more fun if you serve your guests something the size of a manhole cover. You can buy Dutch syrup in any grocery store in the Netherlands, but if you don’t want to get your fingers sticky with stroop, try treacle or molasses.

pancakes - 250g flour - 2 eggs, lightly beaten - 1 tsp salt - 500ml whole milk - Butter and neutral-flavoured oil for cooking the pancakes

and powdered sugar, these mini-me pancakes are a popular treat in the winter. They’re an easy DIY project, but you’ll need to invest in a special pan with half-circle dimples to churn out pictureperfect poffertjes. Amsterdam has several cafés, and one boat, devoted exclusively to pancake worship. The most well-known (and touristy) is the Pancake Bakery, but other worthy contenders are Pannekoekenhuis Upstairs and the exclamatory Pancakes! restaurant. Given that pannekoeken are a perfect canvas for improvisation, though, the tastiest version might just be the one you invent at home.

Whisk the flour and salt together. Mix in the eggs and the milk. The batter can be stored overnight, and actually improves if it rests for a few hours. To cook, melt a teaspoon of butter and a teaspoon of oil in the pan. Pour in enough batter to lightly coat the entire pan. Cook the pancake until small bubbles appear, and flip it over to cook the other side. For a savoury pancake, try a bacon and cheese topping. For a sweet pancake, try fruit with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon. And remember, the rules for pancakes are set by taste, not by tradition.

Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!)

word on the street

Summertime. Not the best time to plan a city break. Luckily, Amsterdam rarely gets too hot to handle. Amsterdam Magazine asked these visitors about their favourite summer pastimes.

Word on the street By Marieke Verhoeven Photography: Sarah Moore

‘Rock is not cool here’

Eva Penny (21) & Dario (22) From: She’s from Scotland, he’s from Italy Profession: Exchange students

What brought you to Amsterdam?

Eva Penny: ‘We both study in Nijmegen, a city in the east of Holland. I’ve been to Amsterdam quite a few times because I have some family living here. There’s still a lot I haven’t

seen though. But this weekend we just want to hang out in the park and chill after our exams.’ Dario: ‘I’ve been here a few times before. Once on Queen’s Day, which was amazing. And I recently showed my cousin around.’

How would you describe the city?

Dario: ‘As very multicultural. I see more Italians and English here than Dutch!’ Eva Penny: ‘I love the atmosphere, it’s very energetic. People are really friendly too. And the architecture, so many beautiful and diverse buildings to see.’

What’s your favourite summer pastime?

Eva Penny: ‘I just like spending time with family and friends. Normally during the year it’s hard getting everybody together. So it’s good to have some quality time.’ Dario: ‘Same here. My best summers were in Italy, just hanging out with friends and family. And I like to go to music festivals. Which brings me to my one complaint about Holland: there’s no rock music scene! I love rock music, but somehow rock is not ‘cool’ here. Very disappointing...’

‘The World Press Photo exhibition is very good’

Marco (42) and Elena (40) From: A small town near Venice, Italy Profession: He works for a bank, she’s a lawyer

Is it your first time here?

Marco: ‘It is, we’re here for almost a week. I’m very pleasantly surprised, I like it a lot. Especially the people, they remind me of southern Europeans. Not so serious and formal as the English and German!’

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What have you been doing?

Marco: ‘We’ve seen the famous sights like the Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank House. And we just came from the World Press Photo exhibition in the Oudekerk, which was very good. But the best thing about Amsterdam is just biking around the city.’ Elena: ‘We also like to visit local restaurants. But no Italian food, that’s usually better at home. We love Asian food like Indian and Vietnamese, and there are some great places for that type of cuisine here.’

Marco: ‘I like the restaurant Bazaar in the Pijp district a lot, they serve great Middle Eastern food.’

What’s your favourite summer activity?

Marco: ‘We live near Venice which is close to the beach, so we’re usually spending our summer days at the beach. Or we go to Croatia which is also pretty close by. But my wife is not that fond of Croatia, so it’s more likely that we stay in Italy. One thing’s for sure: I’m not going on city trips in warm countries! It’s better to do that in the spring or autumn.’

‘They sell great books on Spui’

Ricardo (35) & Juanna (31) From: Lisbon, Portugal Profession: They both work in advertising

16. My mum came along, because she was the reason I entered the competition in the first place. Naturally, we ended up drinking beers at the Heineken museum.’

What have you been up to?

Is this your first time in Amsterdam?

Ricardo: ‘No, I’ve been here a few times and have some friends living here as well. The first time was actually a funny story. I won a trip through a Heineken competition at the age of

Juanna: ‘Not much, we’re just shopping and walking around the city. The two bookstores on Spui are our must-visit when we’re in Amsterdam, they sell some great books and magazines.’ Ricardo: ‘And tonight we’re having dinner at this secret restaurant, like a pop-up place. That’s the good thing about having local

friends, they know the right places to go.’

What’s your favourite thing to do in summer? Ricardo: ‘Just being near the beach and eating fresh seafood. Most tourists in Portugal go to the Algarve, but the Alentejo province has some great beach towns as well.’ Juanna: ‘Lisbon is also a pleasant city to spend the summer in. It’s not too hot and August is usually quieter. And there are some great street parties. Especially during St. Anthony festival, which lasts throughout the month of June.’

ajax

SONS of God

After a very turbulent season, Ajax won the Dutch football championship last May for the first time in seven years. Reason enough to take a look at the past, present and future of Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous sports club.

By Mike Peek

Photo: Ajax / Louis van de Vuurst

FEATURED

Trivia

00 in a on 18 March, 19 Ajax was founded rstraat. lve Ka e -Indië’ on th café called ‘Oost ic store: ing houses a mus Today, that build FAME.

n the mid-1990s, Ajax seemed invincible. Every Dutch boy decorated his bedroom

with posters of the best players. I used to kiss Litmanen, Overmars, Rijkaard and Kanu goodnight before I went to sleep. And I vividly remember the European Champions League final on 24 May 1995 against AC Milan. The tension during the scoreless first 85 minutes was unbearable. Then veteran Frank Rijkaard passed the ball to 18-year-old Patrick Kluivert. He controlled it, shook off a couple of opponents and shot. It was just a toe-kick, but Kluivert scored. Ajax won with 1-0 and I ripped my pyjamas out of pure joy.

The 1995 Intercontinental Cup Six months later Ajax competed against Brazilian Gremio (the South-American champion) for the officious Intercontinental Cup. The game was held in Tokyo and, because of the time difference, took place during school hours. After 90 minutes the score was still 0-0 and the extra time didn’t produce any goals either. It came down to penalties. By then, my classmates and I had been glued to our little radios for hours. But while other teachers had quickly accepted they wouldn’t be doing much teaching that day, Mr. Van Wijk wrongly thought maths lessons were far more valuable than football. Mr. Van Wijk was a peculiar man. He had no natural authority whatsoever and tried to compensate for it by looking furious all the time, his enormous eyes nearly popping out of their sockets. And he had this weird tic: when he got really angry, he pursed his lips like a two-dollar hooker trying to lure in customers. Which doesn’t help your street cred in high school. At all. Yes, we liked to mock our maths teacher. But now he had us by the balls. At that very moment, surely the most important moment in our entire lives, he denied us the right to experience history as it happened. He opened his textbook and started teaching about Sin, Cos and Tan. Or whatever. Above us we heard other students stamp their feet as the penalty series got underway. After a few minutes of utter agony, Mr. Van Wijk stopped talking and looked at us. We probably looked back at him with

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eyes as big as his, full of hope and desperation. Our prayers were heard: Mr. Van Wijk raised his arms in surrender and simply said: ‘Ok.’ We quickly turned on our radios and the reporter said that the score was 3-3. Gremio had missed twice, Ajax once. It came down to the next shot. If captain Danny Blind scored, Ajax would win the Intercontinental Cup. A moment of silence followed as Blind started his run-up... Next thing we knew the reporter went crazy. Blind did it! Through the entire school, class doors opened. Everybody ran down the hallways and fell into each other’s arms. I’m not sure what Mr. Van Wijk was doing, but the rest of us were shouting our lungs out. They were Ajax. They were the best. They were the Sons of God.

Sparks of hope are flying through the city

images: Ajax / Louis van de Vuurst

The team of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;95: Edwin van der Sar, Micheal Reiziger, Clarence Seedorf, Frank Rijkaard, Nwanko Kanu, Danny Blind, Jari Litmanen, Ronald de Boer, Frank de Boer, Marc Overmars, Finidi George

Trivia The most recent Dutch championship was the 30th in total for Ajax. Every ten titles yield a golden star in Holland. Just minutes after the victory against FC Twent e, the third star was unveiled in the Amster dam ArenA. A triumphant moment fans had long been waiting for. 25

FEATURED

Total football The man largely responsible for all this childhood nostalgia is Louis van Gaal, Ajax’s coach between 1991 and 1997. During his reign Ajax not only won the 1995 Champions League and the Intercontinental Cup, but three Dutch championships (1994, 1995, 1996), one Dutch Cup (1993), the UEFA Cup (1992), the European Super Cup (1996) and three Dutch Super Cups (1993, 1994, 1996) as well. Ajax had known earlier periods of success. During the 1930s the club swept five Dutch championships and moved to a fancy-schmanzy new football temple: ‘De Meer’ in the borough Watergraafsmeer. It wasn’t until 16 November 1964, however, that Ajax started its march towards international fame. On that day a 17-year-old named Johan Cruijff made his debut for Ajax. With Piet Keizer and Sjaak Swart as his most important associates, Cruijff went on to become a living legend. Not least because he collaborated with coach Rinus Michels to develop a new tactical theory for Ajax called ‘total football’, which is now more or less synonymous with Dutch football in general.

The best players left, looking for a bigger paycheck

Total football is a proactive tactic. In short, it asks players to switch positions. Defenders can become attackers and vice versa, depending on how the game unfolds. The opponent gets confused by all this running around and goes nuts. Hopefully. The system is heavily dependent on how good and all-round the players are. Ajax’s stars in the early 1970s were very good and very all-round. Total football revolutionised international football and brought Ajax three consecutive Champions League titles in 1971, 1972 and 1973. When Cruijff went to F.C. Barcelona in 1974, the dream ended. During the 1980s, Ajax’s world-renowned youth development produced famous stars like Marco van Basten and Dennis Bergkamp. They won some

Trivia

you’ll hear is playing well, Whenever Ajax s! Jews!), ew den! Joden!’ (J the fans yell ‘Jo the club, of ys da m the early a remnant fro some playppor ters (and when a lot of su llowers of rival wish decent. Fo ers) were of Je against Ajax, e this sobriquet teams often us gonna hunt e e’r singing: ‘W for example by some Jews’. ns with the sirable associatio Because of unde ban the to s War, Ajax want Second World ckname. controversial ni

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Photo: Ajax Images

The Velvet Revolution A dark period in the club’s history began. Between 1997 and 2010 Ajax won the Dutch competition only thrice and played no role whatsoever internationally. If anyone mentioned their beloved nickname, Sons of God, it was in mockery. They were ordinary mortals now, playing in a big, frigid stadium without any football atmosphere. No victories meant no money to buy better players and the club got stuck in a vicious circle. The start of the 2010/2011 season was especially weak. Halfway through, Ajax were fourth in the competition and star attacker Luis Suárez transferred to Liverpool. Behind the scenes a Shakespearean battle for power unfolded between the club and Johan Cruijff, who repeatedly bashed Ajax, its administration and coach Martin Jol in the Dutch media. It’s vital to understand that Cruijff is a Messiah in Amsterdam. The pressure he put on Ajax by publicly turning against ‘his’ club was immense. He argued that the board of directors was a farce, full of businesspeople who had no background in football and no idea how the club should be run. Cruijff offered advice about a new strategy for Ajax, but felt his plans were not taken seriously.

Trivia

national titles with the club and grabbed the Europa Cup II in 1987 (under coach Johan Cruijff), but the real resurrection of Ajax only started when Van Gaal took office. At the dawn of his era, Ajax still played in De Meer, a by then small and outdated stadium. Something had to happen. In 1993 plans for a new sports palace, the Amsterdam ArenA, were green-lit. Ajax was at the height of its glory when the ArenA opened three years later, but once again became a victim of its own success. Like Cruijff, Van Basten and Bergkamp before them, the best players of that time left, looking for a bigger paycheck in Spain or Italy. Around the same time Ajax moved to their shiny new stadium, they stopped winning.

Sjaak Swar t (1938) is often called during his ‘Mr. Ajax’. career. Bet He never le ween 1956 played a re ft the club and 1973 cord 603 this loyal ri official mat ght-winge ches for Aja r x..

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Photo: Ajax / Louis van de Vuurst

Behind the scenes a Shakespearean battle for power unfolded A complicated cat-and-mouse game commenced which ended with the board of directors resigning and Cruijff basically taking control of Ajax. He’s in the new administration and will be able to implement his dream strategy, which includes attracting former top players for key positions within the club. The media called it a ‘Velvet Revolution’, but outgoing chairman Uri Coronel might argue there was nothing velvet about it. He claimed that Cruijff was less than friendly during their meetings, threatening to ‘break’ him and his associates if they didn’t do what Cruijff told them... Meanwhile, Frank de Boer (a defender in the 1995 dream team) had succeeded Martin Jol, who stepped down in December 2010. Results in the Dutch competition started to improve. So much so that against all odds, Ajax had a shot at the Championship title.

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Coincidentally, they played their last match against direct opponent F.C. Twente, who led the competition with a one-point advantage. Ajax had to win, which was no mean feat. Twente beat them in the cup final just a week before and its players were far more experienced than those of Ajax. Current stars like Siem de Jong and Jan Vertonghen are still very young. Supporters would later say the ArenA felt like a real football stadium for the first time ever during that vital match. A swirling mass of more than 50,000 people shouted their heroes to a 3-1 victory. Amsterdam exploded afterwards. Ajax won the competition, which gave them a big financial break, AND Cruijff will lead the way into the future. No one is saying it out loud yet, but sparks of hope are flying through the city: they might just become the Sons of God once again.%

amsterdam arena Ajax plays its home games in the Amsterdam ArenA, the biggest stadium in the Netherlands and the first in Europe to have a retractable roof when it opened 15 years ago. Are you interested in Ajax and the stadium? Consider a onehour guided tour, which covers the press room, trophy room, players’ lounge and of course the arena itself, among other places. There’s a gift shop as well, should you like to drink your morning coffee from an Ajax mug. Since the stadium is used for concerts throughout summer, the turf is currently covered by plates, unfortunately. Until the end of August, there are seven (English) tours each day: at 11.00, 12.15, 12.45, 13.30, 14.45, 16.00 and 17.00 hours. Tickets (€12) are sold on a walk-in basis. To get to the ArenA, take metro line 50 or 54 to Bijlmer Arena. You’ll just be a few metres from the stadium, but the main entrance is at the other side.

made in holland

Choices By Morgan Currie

It all started when Sephardic Jews introduced their unique diamond-cutting techniques to Holland in the 16th century. Since then, Amsterdam (aka the ‘city of diamonds’ as the industry has branded it) has produced some of the finest stones in the world, including the largest rough diamond ever found – the Cullinan diamond – and the smallest, which is barely wider than a splinter. Following in this entrepreneurial tradition is Choices by DL, opened by designer Debora Leeser in 2010 in the ‘diamond cutting area’ of Gassan Diamonds. Leeser is a 2008 cum laude graduate of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and the youngest descendant of the famous Dutch diamond family Gassan (inventors of the ‘Amsterdam cut’). The concept behind Choices by DL seems to be that more must be better: the collection consists of interchangeable jewels that can be swapped out on a gold band core and a bezel (or frame) depending on your mood or wardrobe. They’ve rolled out a summer batch called Fly Me to the Moon, shown here, that includes six natural-coloured stones cut in a cabochon shape. Prices start at €1495. Whimsy doesn’t always come cheap! www.choicesbydl.nl

knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives Imagine living without any modern luxuries: no T V, no mobile phone and no washing machine. Jo Hedwig Teeuwisse (39) knows all about it. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s living as if it were 1935. Amsterdam Magazine takes a look inside her thirties apartment. by marieke verhoeven | photography: sarah moore

t only takes one look at Jo Hedwig Teeuwisse standing in the doorway to know that something about this woman is different. With her floral button dress, classic hairdo and small round glasses, Jo looks like she just walked out of a black and white film. After entering her apartment near Oosterpark, the interior appears to match her outfit. Everything, from the furniture to the pictures on the wall, is pre-war style. >

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Most of this interior comes from the Waterlooplein market.

knock knock

‘I just don’t see the value of these modern luxuries.’ Portable Record Player ‘I’ve always been fascinated by history,’ Jo explains. ‘As a little girl I loved to fantasise about what it would be like living in the past. I just didn’t fit in the era that I grew up in.’ That era, the seventies, was all about being free and having fun. Jo’s parents were total hippies, she explains. But instead of being wild and free, Jo preferred sticking her nose in history books. When she moved out, she started decorating her first apartment in fifties style.‘The fifties were a big trend back then, so it was easy to get my furniture together. But then I discovered the thirties.’ When she starts talking about her favourite

decade, Jo’s eyes light up. ‘It was a wonderful, peaceful period. The First World War was over and even though other countries in Europe were not doing that great, Holland was rebuilding and doing well. The radio made it’s introduction and life was pretty easygoing.’ Coincidently, the design style also fits Jo’s taste. Most of her interior comes from the Waterlooplein market. ‘The sellers know me by now, so if they have something from the thirties, they hold it back for me.’ One of her most prized possessions is a portable record player. ‘Isn’t it amazing?’, she enthuses. ‘You can wind it up yourself, so you don’t need any electricity.’ It’s just one example of Jo’s sustainable way of living. ‘I don’t own a TV, nor a washing machine. No mobile phone, no car and no dishwasher. And I have only one heater in the living room, so in the winter it can get pretty chilly in the bedroom. But that’s the way it’s supposed to be in winter! I just don’t see the value of these modern luxuries.’

Disconnected More than that, Jo sees modern technology as a burden. ‘I do have “normal” friends, who live in the here and now. But when I see them stressed and addicted to their mobile phones, I’m always happy I don’t own one.’ Jo does grant herself one essential luxury: a laptop.‘I work as a historical advisor for movies, documentaries and museums. And I’m a tour guide for children in the Historic Museum. To do my work properly, I need a computer.’ There is another advantage of having a laptop: Jo can keep in touch with kindred souls. ‘There is a club called Interbellum, with people who have the same lifestyle as me. We get together once in a while to talk and dance to thirties music.’ And as a single lady, she meets charming men there too. ‘I meet men through work as well,’ she giggles. ‘Cameramen somehow find me very interesting.’ Even though her lifestyle is so different to most, Jo does not feel disconnected from modern society. ‘But I

do feel we could learn something from the past. If you look at the way people treated each other back then, it was so much more polite. We lost a lot of that courtesy along the way. I feel it’s my personal mission to teach people the beauty of history.’

amsterdam eats

amserdam eats

Caffè Toscanini BY: hungry in holland

In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits Caffè Toscanini: Italian cuisine at its finest.

ays after my dinner at Toscanini I’m still dreaming about the experience, which is most certainly a sign of top notch dining. If the main philosophy behind Italian cuisine is fresh, flavourful ingredients, Toscanini has mastered the art of authentic Italian cooking. Rustic Elegance Since opening in 1985 as a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in the heart of the Jordaan, this idyllic neighbourhood eatery has gained popularity by churning out wholesome dishes, and is now considered a culinary institution in the city. At Toscanini, up-scale comfort is taken to heights rarely seen in Amsterdam. A large glass sun roof illuminates the white walls, linen cloths drape elegantly over tables, while oak furniture and a widely exposed kitchen create an interior not unlike sunny Tuscany. An hour before closing time on a Monday night, the room was still packed with lively people enjoying good food, wine and conversation. Guests range from big Italian families in search of treats from their homeland, to couples out for romantic meals and foodies sampling the wide variety of authentic Italian offerings. Though candles are lit and pricey bottles of wine are dotted throughout the room, the atmosphere is more welcoming and casual than some other highend establishments. Divine Flavours Staying true to authenticity, the wine list features wines exclusively from Italy and is twice the length of the dinner menu. My choice, a glass of smoky Boccanera, was the perfect accompaniment to a starter of sliced seared beef with tarragon dressing. Each slither of tender beef literally melted in my mouth and the mixed herb garnish left a refreshing aftertaste. The tagliatelle al ragu with veal, beef and pork was also of impeccable consistency, neither heavy nor runny on a bed of homemade pasta. The sheer quality and freshness of the ingredients is what made each dish so special. From the incredibly moist chargrilled quail to the succulent marbled beef rib-eye; simple, bold flavours replaced the need for excess sauce and seasoning. In fact, the rib-eye was so tender it could have easily been sliced with a butter knife. As for dessert, the tartuffo ice cream truffle – smothered in ground

‘The freshness of the ingredients is what made each dish so special.’ The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money

§§§§4 §§§§4 §§§§2 §§§§2

Final Score:

8.6

Round-Up Cuisine: Italian Neighbourhood: Jordaan Atmosphere: Fine Dining Price pp: €40 to €60 Open: Monday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm Public transport: Tram 3, Bus 18 Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes

pralines, chocolate, and amaretto - would secure a second visit alone. The panna cotta was also of a refined, creamy texture rarely found in other restaurants. The Waiting Game The only negative remark, perhaps, is the overwhelming popularity of the place. Seats are in such high demand that it’s nearly impossible to get a table without reserving far in advance, particularly on weekends. While the service at my table was excellent, the receptionist/bartender/food runner was in need of an extra pair of hands to lighten his load. The diligent efforts of the waiting staff clearly reflected that the clientele here knows how to dine and have a good time. Nearly every table was graced with multiple bottles of wine, as guests leisurely sipped and sampled different varieties in between courses. In short, don’t be discouraged by reservation rejections. Simply plan in advance to make this true Italian experience your own. You won’t regret it.

What others said: Iens.nl: “Again great food! It’s so nice and special. The staff is friendly, they know what they are talking about and attentive. “ - S. Vos Tripadvisor.com: “Trust me, email me, call me...but come here, it is fantastic.” - Chris Sanderman

Caffè Toscanini Lindengracht 75 +31 (0)20 6232813 www.restauranttoscanini.nl

Junglicious Photography by Richard Bakker

Located in the Plantage district (close to Artis Zoo), Hortus Botanicus is one of the oldest gardens in the world, and home to more than 4,000 exotic species. Amsterdam

Magazine went along to check out the greenhouse, rare cactuses and monumental palm trees. Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2a www.dehortus.nl Opening Hours Monday - Friday: 9am-5pm Weekends: 10am-5pm Throughout July and August, Hortus Botanicus will extend its opening hours until 7pm. During these months, there will also be live music on the terrace every Sunday. Admission Children â&#x201A;Ź3.50 Adults â&#x201A;Ź7.50

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Red swimsuit: Gottex €149.95

Salmon-coloured swimsuit with golden buckles: Episode (vintage clothing) â&#x201A;Ź10 Necklace: Otazu

Leopard swimsuit: Silver by Gottex â&#x201A;Ź109.95 Necklace: Otazu

Brown bikini: Huit, Top: €39, Bottoms: €29

Green swimsuit with golden rings: Gottex â&#x201A;Ź159.95

Production & Concept: Tommy Hagen Assistant Photography: Simone Klomp Styling: Inge de Lange Make Up: Anita Jolles Hair: Tommy Hagen for Tommyztoko.nl & HOO Green and yellow swimsuit: Dress: â&#x201A;Ź199.95 Rodebier Roidal Earrings: Otazu

Assistant Hair: Karline Verstegen Courtesy of Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam

foreign exchange

By Lauren Wissot

Raising the Dead through Robotics Documentary director and cinematographer Jarred Alterman follows the Dutch kinetic artist Christiaan Zwanikken as he uses servomotors and robotic engineering to reanimate the skeletons of deceased wildlife and bring surreal artforms to life. By Lauren Wissot Schooled at both the Rietveld Academie and Rijks Akademie, Christiaan Zwanikken splits his time between Amsterdam and Portugal. A graduate of Temple University in Philadelphia, Jarred Alterman is based in NYC. Where these two artists’ lives intersect both literally and metaphorically is at the Convento Sao Francisco de Mertola, the Zwanikken family’s estate, which also serves as the inspiration for the title of Alterman’s latest art documentary Convento. At this sublime former monastery in a remote area of Portugal Alterman’s lens captures mother Geraldine, a former prima ballerina, and her sons Louis and Christiaan as they interact with each other and the breathtaking nature around them in much the same way. Amsterdam Magazine asked the two to come together once again to discuss everything from UFOs to LSD, to smuggling animal skulls into Japan.

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JA: What are some of your earliest influences as an artist? CZ: As a teenager I was obsessed with the choreographed slapstick of Laurel and Hardy and Charlie Chaplin. There was a certain magic I was attracted to in those movies. I experimented with a super 8mm film camera using my friends as actors and building small sets and props, to try and capture that comedic timing. I learned it was impossible, of course. But today, I still actually reference those films when I’m programming certain movements of a sculpture. How about you? What are some of your earliest influences?

mals painted green and blue, and men and women floating over them like stretchedout balloons, in these dreamlike portraits. Anytime I see one of his paintings it brings me back to that moment. Regarding your work, I’m wondering, have you ever had a problem with customs? Custom officials are different in each city. As a general rule, I try to travel with the animal skulls in my luggage, and ship the remaining synthetic pieces of the sculptures in freight. As an independent artist I have no real infrastructure set up to protect the work against the laws of transportation of skeletal parts. If it comes up I usually say

‘I travel with skulls in my luggage’ Well, I was certainly not thinking about creating art at the time, but I have a vivid memory of visiting a Marc Chagall exhibition in Philadelphia on a school trip when I was in the second grade. I was only seven or eight years old, but the colours and characters in his work really made an impression on me. I remember the feeling of seeing these large canvases with silly ani-

I’m with a theatre group and explain that all the parts are made of plastic. For a show I had in Japan I made paper mache heads sculpted around the skulls and painted them in bright colours so they would look like souvenirs. On arrival I had to soak the things for hours in water to get them out of the paper mache! I was in such a panic. Can you imagine if I had to show the pieces

foreign exchange

with those stupid heads? So did you attend film school or art school? I did attend film school at Temple University in Philly, but only one year was a highly concentrated film thesis programme, where you produce a short film. But in my junior year I took a class that changed my life: UFOs in American Society. The only class in the world dedicated to the history of UFO sightings and abductions. In the last semester the professor gave lectures based on a series of real cases with abductees that he personally interviewed under hypnotic regression. Professor Jacobs was sort of a mad genius who gave me some great ideas for screenplays. Speaking of madness, I hear some journalists think you are on LSD. And accuse you of dark thoughts. Why is that? (It reminds me of the how they accused Led Zeppelin of using black magic.)

have trouble categorising the film? I have never called the film a documentary, primarily because of how heavy the word is. The association and expectation of what a documentary is supposed to be really limits the creative process, even before you shoot a single frame. And I did not want to direct a film like a documentarian. I always tell audiences that I have spent the last ten years filming dance with The Merce Cunningham Dance Company, and I treated Convento with a similar approach. I am interested in the choreography of daily routines. The camera moves in the rolling hills of Portugal with the same focus of following a dancer across a stage. I came up with the term “doc/ art” and it seems to work for some festival programmers. (But certainly not for all of them.) So when you’re not in the studio, where are you?

‘Hallucinogenic drugs and engineering aren’t a great mix’

Jarred Alterman, in collaboration with the artist and filmmaker Charles Atlas, has spent the past decade creating films for The Merce Cunningham Dance Company. His first documentary film Mott Music, about a piano factory in The Bronx, NYC, premiered at SXSW 2005 and went on to find distribution with the Sundance Channel. Based in NYC, Alterman also works in London and Amsterdam.

Christiaan Zwanikken, represented in the Netherlands by Galerie Ramakers, exhibits his work worldwide. His installations have been shown at Museum Tinguely in Basel, Switzerland and at Kunsthaus Graz in Austria, as well as at The Netherlands Media Art Institute in Amsterdam. By combining his computer-controlled mechanisms with nature’s own skeletons and plants he creates art that doesn’t just move but “behaves.”

I always tell people, so what if I have a dark sensibility? What is your real question? People obviously see the humour and satire in my work. I build talking skeletal parts, which sometimes quote old movies and sing hip-hop lyrics. But it’s true there is an intense darkness that sometimes takes over a piece, and I’m not afraid to explore it. Anyone who’s take LSD or hallucinogenic drugs will know that creating complex robotics and engineering usually aren’t a great mix. Trust me. But I think what is different in my work is that I like to show all the parts and mechanisms in order to engage with the audience, to help them understand how they function. Transparency serves a purpose for me, in order to have a conversation – instead of an aura of dark magic fuelled by psychedelics. Interestingly, I find it hard to describe Convento as a documentary. Do you

With my amazing dogs – we now have seven; drinking a lot of cheap, but excellent red wine from the Alentejo, eating fresh food from the garden, hanging with my family and friends. I’ll spend many hours, days and weeks in my studio working on new pieces, but I need long breaks from it, to enjoy nature. I’m still working on that balance. What’s the next project for you? I would love to make a music video for The Beastie Boys. I know they have Spike Jonze and a whole team of really talented, super cool film dudes by their side, but I have been a fan since the beginning. With your help I want to create a world of robo-human-creatures and kinetic outer space sets for the new album. Since I was a kid I have always wanted to make a video with them, and finally I have some skills to pull it off.

n erma d Alt Jarre

ikken Zwan iaan t s i r Ch

getting around

Swamp

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getting around

Lazy loosdrechT By: Mike Peek

With Dutch summer reaching its peak, there’s no better place to enjoy a lazy day at the water than the Loosdrechtse Plassen. Several connecting lakes guarantee endless swimming, chilling and sailing.

ave you ever done this before, sir?’ the boy asked. I tried to act insulted. ‘Are you kidding? I was steering these babies when you were still in nappies, son.’ He didn’t look convinced. Perhaps that near stumble when I boarded my rental boat gave me away. ‘Well...let me show you the ropes just in case. It’s pretty straightforward. The motor has only two positions: forward and backward. Open the throttle by twisting the handle. Turn the handle right to go left and vice versa.’ I nodded. ‘No problem, thanks. I’ll be fine.’ He still seemed a little worried.

Let her float The Loosdrechtse Plassen are not only a heaven for water sports enthusiasts but an important nature area as well. If you have a bike, be sure to cycle

around the fenland that borders the northern lakes. You’ll enjoy gorgeous vistas of stilled scenery only a stone’s throw from all the action. Fancy a closer look at the birds and plants living in these swamps? There’s a route above the Vuntus lake that’s only accessible to rowing boats. Several companies on the Oud-Loosdrechtsedijk (Loosdrecht’s central street) offer rentals. But if rowing sounds a little dull to you, they can also arrange something more adventurous. Like a sailing boat. Or a motorised vessel. ‘Sorry! I don’t really know how to operate this thing yet.’ Shit. Fifty feet into my maiden voyage I hit another craft. Gently, but still... ‘Yeah, obviously. Take it easy until you reach open water, would you?’ Thank God. Another lawsuit averted. It wasn’t really my fault anyway. Turn the handle right to go left? That doesn’t

getting around

make any sense whatsoever. OK, you heard the man. Take it easy. Let her float for a moment. Damn, this passage is awfully narrow...

Bond, James Bond If you’d like to get away from the lakes for a few hours, head for Sypesteyn, just a few kilometres from Loosdrecht. The origin of this small castle is debated. While the Sypesteyn family claims their ancestors built a house here as early as 1288, research has proved the oldest foundations date back to circa 1500. Either way, several manors were erected and destroyed on this spot over the years. Construction of the current fortress started around 1900. Inside, you’ll find a collection of old furniture, weapons and porcelain. More interesting is the exhibit De Ontmoeting (until 14 August), featuring work from contemporary artists inspired by the castle and its history. Sypesteyn has a lovely, fairytale-like garden as well, perfect for a shadowy stroll in hot weather. Finally, open water! After about ten minutes of practice I felt confident enough to hit the gas. The Loosdrechtse Plassen are quite big and, as long as you watch where you’re going, the chances of having an accident are slim. I sailed past the many beaches, ports and terraces and started to enjoy myself. Water sports had never appealed to me much, but my initial scepticism was fading fast. Half an hour later I really got my James Bond on. While 4 horsepower may not be enough to outsail a Russian spy planning to take over the world, it offers a newbie plenty of cruising pleasure. I tried a 360 and succeeded. I tried zigzagging and didn’t fall overboard. I tried waving at another boat full of beautiful girls and they actually waved back. What a glorious day. When my time was up, I smoothly navigated back to the rental company’s pier. The same boy from earlier was still working. He watched how I moored the boat with ease and got out with justified self-confidence. I took off my (prescription) sunglasses because that’s what 007 would do and stared him in the eyes. ‘You didn’t think I had it in me, did you?’ The boy shrugged his shoulders. ‘You’re never too old to learn I suppose.’ Little bastard.

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Try waving at a boat full of beautiful girls!

Getting There On a nice summer day, you can easily bike from Amsterdam to Loosdrecht (30 kilometres). Alternatively, catch a train to Hilversum (four every hour) and then hop on bus 121 to Loosdrecht (once every hour). By car it’s about 20 minutes. The average rental fee for a rowing boat is €10 per 2 hours or €20 per day. Motorboats go for €15 an hour or €60 for an entire day. The entrance fee for Sypesteyn castle is €9. A stroll around its garden will set you back €2.

the ten

ways to Pick Up a Dutch Girl The Dutch are known for their egalitarian culture when it comes to dating and mating. If you thought Dutch girls are not only pretty, but also easy to hit on, think again. Here’s a crash course on how to be man enough to handle a confident Dutch chick. By Caroline Goralczyk | Illustrations: Sarah Moore

Be too cool for school: Let her do all the work

Dutch girls are strong and confident and have no problem taking initiative. Be awesome, say the right things at the right moment and you might for once be allowed to take the passive role in the love game! Excited?

2 4 3 Smell good, Be aware of what you wear

Dutch women have a pretty good taste in fashion, so spend some time on your attire before approaching her. Don’t you dare wear open-toed sandals. But if you must, stride with pride and feel like a king when doing it.

Surprise her

Don’t blabber too much, Get to business

Dutch girls won’t be impressed if you awkwardly stutter your way in. Be wise and witty. Once you start talking to her, ditch the typical ‘Got a light?’ line and dive straight in with ‘Your place or mine?’

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Dutch girls tend to be forthcoming, which they themselves can find quite annoying sometimes. Catch her when she least expects it. Don’t be afraid to wait for her around a corner and shout ‘BOO!’ at her when she appears.

the ten

5 6 7 8 9 10 Go Dutch

Or don’t go Dutch

While paying for one or two drinks can be a nice gesture of yours and is widely accepted, don’t overdo things. A Dutch chick is woman enough to pay her own bill s.

Dutch girls tend to pay their own bill if they don’t want to feel in debt to you. This might mean they don’t like you enough. So insist on paying! Liquor her up and pick up the tab. You might reap more than financial rewards…

Don’t pay too much attention

If you praise Dutch girls up to the skies they might yawn in your face. Don’t shower them with compliments unless you actually do that in the shower.

Tell her you’re Italian and you’re lost Dutch girls not only like foreign men, it will be lust at first sight if you prove to be their potential Latin lover. Tell her you’re an Italian boy who can’t find his hotel. If you have to lie, give it a try. You might get lucky and she’ll provide you with her own Bed and Breakfast.

Start a smart argument

Dutch people not only love to debate, it’s a common pastime. Once you disagree with the girl that caught your eye, make her cry with your intelligent counterargument and then find a way to console her.

Offer something different

Dutch boys tend to be very passive which can get pretty boring. If you are a foreigner, you already have an ace up your sleeve. Dutch girls like fun nights out with someone who can show them that the grass is greener on the other side.

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expo

Nocturnal Delight Inspired by the seven deadly sins, Dutch fashion photographer Hans Withoos (49) created scenes of mortals at their weakest moments in cities such as Amsterdam, London, New York, Paris and Venice. Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs Until 30 July Open: Wed to Sat, 1pm -6pm. Entrance: Free Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2 +31 (0)20 3206705 www.eduardplanting.com

Antwerpen, St. Michielskaai

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Paris, Champs Elysees

new york times square

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expo

5th Ave Presbytherian Church

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rotterdam

Antwerpen, Linkeroever

Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

Amsterdam

magazine

Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and

often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can

dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

Amsterdam

Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange

L Lekkerbek

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P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution

(New Year’s Dive)

Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

V VOC

(Dutch East India Company) The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet Water management Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in

(Black Pete)

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.

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YOSHA FASHION STUDIO shop

eel like expressing yourself through exclusive garments rather than be part of a mass-made

society? It’s all about limited edition designs and one of a kind fashion here!

By Arun Sood

Having been surrounded by fashion, art and music their whole lives, it’s no surprise that Scarlet Arrow and Amber Rose have a strong passion for the arts. While they previously designed independently for their own fashion labels, the two sisters have joined forces to open Yosha Fashion Studio, a platform and fashion agent for new designers and brands like Kim Siderius, Bidadari, Hold Me Now, JMG Jewels, By Cavalier Bags and Xuz Handmade Lovers.

One of a kind

Inspired by their parents Josje and Barry Finch - who designed clothes for the likes of The Beatles and Led Zeppelin in the ‘60s and ‘70s - Scarlet and Amber both want to keep their family heritage alive and maintain the philosophy behind their work.‘Our mission is to preserve our parent’s emphasis on individual expression and artistic

freedom,’ says Amber. ‘We want to prove that it’s still possible to express yourself through exclusive garments rather than be part of a capitalist, mass-made society where everybody wears the same things. That’s why we specialise in limited edition and one of a kind fashion.’ While the studio initially began as an atelier for Scarlet and Amber’s Yosha label, it soon evolved into a showroom for other brands and designers too. ‘We were investing so much time in making other shops

‘Our parents designed clothes for The Beatles & Led Zeppelin’ happy,’ says Amber, ‘that we were losing a sense of our own work ethics. That’s when we decided to open a showroom and use it as a platform for talented designers to get their work shown in a public space.’ In addition to that, Yosha Fashion Studio offers their work to other shops, allowing the designers to gain greater exposure.

Tailored needs

While the style and concept between labels differs greatly, the emphasis on individuality remains present throughout all the collections. ‘Personal styling is a big part of the service… from the design of the clothing to the actual fitting, the customer should be involved in the whole process,’ says Amber. ‘That’s why having designers like Kim Siderious is such a big asset to us, she’s also very much focused on one-off garments that are tailored to personal needs.’ Having already successfully grown from an atelier to a showroom and now an allround fashion-agent, Yosha Fashion Studio shows no signs of slowing down, primarily due to the ambition and artistic integrity that drives Scarlet and Amber. ‘We are still developing and inviting new designers to work with us on a regular basis,’ says Amber. ‘Hopefully it can grow into something much much bigger.’

Yosha Fashion Studio Prinsengracht 300 sous +31 (0)20 7854431 www.yoshafashion.com

unlocking the city

Green S

tyle!

unlocking the city

Allow our clued-up ’dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, green entrepreneur Mette te Velde gives us the inside scoop on Amsterdam sustainable living. BY: SARAH MOORE

Mette te Velde [31] Co-founder of Strawberry Earth www.strawberryearth.com

Besides biking, how sustainable is Amsterdam compared to other international cities? Overall, there is much more happening in other cities like New York, London, and Paris. We’re very far behind when it comes sustainable food and fashion. In London, all the new, hip restaurants are organic and local. Amsterdam does have a sustainable scene but it’s a much smaller circle and I know everyone in it. There are many inspiring local green entrepreneurs, and although they are frustrated sometimes with the politics here, they are still doing really well. Where are some restaurants that focus on local, organic produce and ingredients? One of my favourite restaurants is Proef set up by food designer Marije Vogelzang. They know exactly where all their ingredients come from and the great food is served with a fun twist. De Kas is a really nice restaurant focusing solely on seasonal fresh ingredients. They actually have their own nursery where they grow all their own produce. Merkelbach’s philosophy is all about eating seasonal and they even host the Youth Food Movement, an academy for young upcoming food professionals. For shopping, Delicious Food is a nice little organic supermarket in the Jordaan.

What about Amsterdam based ecofashion boutiques or labels? Sukha is a beautiful new boutique where everything is fairtrade with some organic clothes. Studio Jux is a Dutch organic and fair brand that has a special project in Nepal where they pay all their tailors good wages and you can learn about their lives online. Charlie + Mary in De Pijp is another great social and environmental concept store with trendy brands at reasonable prices. What other environmentally conscious shops and brands are available in this city? Friday Next on the Overtoom has a lot of great furniture and interior design products. C. Cosmetics and Care is a sustainable spa and shop where all of the products are naturally made without harsh chemicals or animal testing. If you’re visiting Amsterdam, Conscious Hotel’s interior is built from recycled materials and they also serve organic, local food for breakfast. While it’s more literally ‘green’, one of my favourite spots in the city is the Hortus Botanicus, a great place to go if you need to escape the city and find nature.

Strawberry Earth is a blog for creative people who care about our planet. Along with blogging about sustainability and green living, they also host film festivals and eco-fashion fairs along with a variety of other sustainable events and activities.

pimp my bike

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY arun sood photography: sarah moore

Kevin Keepers, 36

‘other ones have always been stolen’

DOUBLE DUTCH Since moving here from Durham, England more than ten years ago, Kevin Keepers has suffered bad luck with bicycles – most of his favourite ones have been stolen. So on their three-year anniversary, his thoughtful girlfriend Marie decided to contact our pimpin’ team in order to put an end to the vicious cycle (pardon the pun). ‘I wanted to surprise Kevin and get his bike pimped because his other ones have always been stolen,’ says Marie. ‘I thought if he had a more unique looking bike, then maybe he could keep it for longer this time.’

ike theft in Amsterdam is one of those unfortunate facts of life. One could go as far to say that you’re not even a true Amsterdammer until you’ve had your beloved set of wheels snatched from underneath your nose. Of course, one way to prevent this from happening – in addition to a sturdy lock – is to take a creative approach towards the dilemma. Thieves would naturally rather steal a bland, nondescript bike than one that has been customised to your own taste and preference. That’s where Amsterdam Magazine can come to the rescue.

Amsterdam

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Despite being the victim of bike theft on multiple occasions, Kevin still loves living in Amsterdam and is practically a local having been here for a decade. ‘I never get bored here,’ says Kevin. ‘There’s always something to do and I think the quality of life is far better than in England. I also think it’s slightly cheaper.’ While he feels happy and very much at home in the city, he admits to having still not properly mastered Dutch despite a couple of valiant attempts. ‘I’ve learned it twice, forgotten it twice, and am now trying to learn it again,’ he laughs.

Rei Nilde

The Pimping Artist

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the last thing I want is a Barbie bike!â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

pimp my bike

‘I don’t think anyone is going to steal it anymore.’

‘It used to be easier when I first moved here because people encouraged you to speak Dutch, but now it seems most people are happy to reply in English.’ When asked what he would like done to his bike, Kevin gets straight to the point and warns the artist not to be too extravagant with his sturdy old set of wheels. ‘I don’t like bling, so nothing too sparkly or pink...the last thing I want is a Barbie bike!’ he laughs. ‘Something more industrial looking will suit me. Other than that I’ll just leave it up to the artist.’ UNIQUE VISION This month’s artist, Rei Nilde, recognised her creative tendencies from an early age. ‘I remember being in maths classes at school and just wanting to draw the whole time,’ she says. ‘That’s when I realised I needed to express myself through art in some way.’ Originally from Curacao, Rei moved to Amsterdam in 2004 to study art at the prestigious Rietveld Academy. Since then, she has continued to dabble in different artistic mediums and is currently pursuing a career in filmmaking. ‘I like the in-between zone of art and film,’ she explains. ‘There are different approaches you can

take towards each medium, but I like the many elements that can be created when you combine them both.’ Before turning her hand to Kevin’s bike, Rei lets us in on the rather unusual catalyst behind much of her work. While many artists have turned to caffeine, cigarettes or far stronger substances to find new artistic perspectives, Rei’s stimulant is a lot more unique: ‘Boiled eggs inspire and energise me throughout all my creative endeavours,’ she claims. ‘Perhaps it’s the protein!’ After swiftly consuming four boiled eggs, Rei gets to work on Kevin’s bike immediately. INDUSTRIAL STYLE She begins by spraying the bike completely black and sticking chain-link stencils around the frame, before blending blue and silver paint over the uncovered areas. Going with Kevin’s idea of an ‘industrial’ bike, she then winds bits of copper wire and metal around the wheels and chainguard, giving the bike a factory machine-like edge. As an added final comedic touch, Rei adds a large triangular ‘warning’ sign to the back of the frame and a paint roller to the front; a couple of accessories that are sure to deter any prospective thieves from laying their hands on the bike.

Upon seeing his pimped bike for the first time, Kevin is slightly taken aback by the major changes, and wonders whether he will actually be able to cycle with so many added accessories. ‘Well I might have to take all those bits off for a start. I can maybe use them for some building jobs I have coming up,’ he laughs. ‘But the paintwork is really nice, I’m happy with that.’ Further considering his newly pimped bike, he sits back and smiles: ‘Well it’s certainly going to do the job. I don’t think anyone is going to steal it anymore.’

Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

captured

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

CAPTURED By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

playboy A party in the style of the famous Playboy mansion. At the Winter Garden ballroom in the beautiful Krasnapolsky hotel the guests felt like they were there for real! Krasnapolsky Hotel

18 june >

Revolution909

Photos: Loveland

Revolution909 was held in the Amsterdamse Bos – a beautiful forest near Amsterdam. With a mixture of performances from current techno heroes such as Umek, Gregor Tresher and Bart Skils, and old pioneers including Remy, Vince Watson and Christian Smith, the visitors were treated to a wide variety of techno styles. Amsterdamse Bos, Amstelveen

< 12 JUNE

WITTE NACHT

This Russian-themed night combined art, diamonds and music to celebrate the start of the summer. Delicious cocktails, sparkling diamonds, white outfits and mood-altering music made for an unforgettable evening. Gassan diamonds, hermitage, hortus botanicus

< 22 JUNE

captured

Olympique – De Nachtspelen The Olympics at night! 2,600 people dressed up as their favourite Olympic athlete to play Olympic games and dance at the same time. One of the craziest and most popular parties in Amsterdam, it always sells out in no time. Westerunie / Westerliefde / Westergasterras

18 june > held every six months Photo © www.thehospages.com

Photo © www.thehospages.com

Amsterdam

Photo © www.thehospages.com

Photo © www.thehospages.com Photo © www.thehospages.com

magazine

captured

Photos: www.defotomeisjes.com

amsterdam open air The outdoor season kicked-off in Amsterdam on 4 June with Amsterdam Open Air at the recreational area Gaasperpark. The result of the colourful co-operation was shown not only by the creative decoration, but namely in the strong and varied programming. gaasperpark

< 4 june

Michiel Dรถbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions has organised events for Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

upcoming

By Blair Larkin

/JULYGIGS Friday 1

Amsterdam shortly after releasing his latest

The Doors Alive, Melkweg

album Weekend at Burnie’s. 21:00, €17.50

The Doors tribute band comes to town to

+ membership

commemorate Jim Morrison 40 years after

Broken Fingers Quintet, De Badcuyp

his passing. 20:00, €22.50 + membership

(Concert Hall)

ICP Orchestra, Bimhuis

21:30, €6

Improvisational jazz from the talented Dutch orchestra. 20:30, €18

Wednesday 6 Archie Shepp Quartet, Bimhuis

Saturday 2

Archie Shepp is recognised in jazz circles

Blessed Reggae Festival, Melkweg

as one of the greatest tenor saxophonists of

Popular Jamaican reggae/dancehall artist

all time. He’s still performing at the age of

Busy Signal headlines this night of reggae

74. 20:30, €28

which also features Tarrus Riley, Duane

Cajan Witmer, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Stephenson, Dean Fraser, Hi Voltage Band

20:00, €6

and more. 19:30, €29.50 + membership

Sur Mestizo, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

Captain Hook, Melkweg

21:30, €8

Amsterdam band Captain Hook present

Photo: Peter Stigter

fashion week downtown As part of the summer edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week this month, a separate event has been organised to give the public a peek at the latest trends in the world of fashion. DOWNTOWN consists of nine days of public catwalk shows, exhibitions, When: 8-17 July shop launches, lectures and parties Where: Various locations and will take place at museums, Admission: Varies galleries, shops and clubs around www.amsterdamfashionweek.com the city.

their third album, Plunge. 21:00, €12 +

Thursday 7

membership

Limp Bizkit, Heineken Music Hall

De Dijk, Heineken Music Hall

American rock band Limp BIzkit come

Dutch legends De Dijk with a mix of their

to town shortly after releasing their first

rock ‘n’ roll, blues and soul. 20:00, €30

album in six years. 20:00, €45

Roda de Samba, Bimhuis

Wakey!Wakey!, Paradiso

Guitarist Nelson Latif brings together

A mix of pop and indie rock complete with

musicians for a jam session of samba mixed

drums, strings and horns with frontman

with improvisations and new compositions.

Michael Grubbs on piano and vocals. 20:00,

22:00, €10

€10 Ana Carolina, Melkweg

Sunday 3

The talented Brazilian vocalist gives her

Ililta Band, Bimhuis

first ever concert in Amsterdam. 20:00, €45

Danceable traditional Ethiopian music from

+ membership

the band from Addis Ababa. 20:30, €15

Eric Dolphy Tribute, Bimhuis

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Two exciting formations pay tribute to the

14:30, Free

legendary Eric Dolphy Quintet to celebrate

La Banda Caliente, De Badcuyp (Concert

the 50th anniversary of the beautiful albums

Hall)

At The Five Spot Vol. 1 & 2. 20:30, €18

15:30, €5

Eurydice & Wolf Martini, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Monday 4

20:00, €6

TV on the Radio, Paradiso

Maaike den Dunnen European Quintet, De

Expect a diverse spectrum of musical

Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

styles ranging from post-punk to electro

21:30, Free

to soul from the American band. Support

Photo: Metro54

Metro54 Festival Metro54 Festival is an urban arts and culture festival taking place at ArenA Park in south-east Amsterdam on Saturday 16 July. The festival features an impressive line-up of international artists and DJs including eclectic French beat maker Onra, Jamaican dancehall star Busy Signal and the mellifluous-voiced Swedish songstress Fatima. In addition When: 16 July to music there will also be spoken word, Where: ArenA Park dance performances, pop-up fashion Admission: €5 stores and an international graffiti www.metro54.nl contest.

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from Intergalactic Lovers. 19:30, €17 +

Friday 8

membership

Dele Sosimi’s Afrobeat Orchestra, Bimhuis

Bimlab 3, Bimhuis

Former drummer of the legendary Fela

A night of improvised jazz with cymbalom

Kuti’s Egypt 80 band Dele Sosimi brings

player Nora Mulder and reeds player

his own style of politically charged funky

Michael Moore. 21:30, €6

afrobeat to town. 20:30, €20

Tuesday 5

Saturday 9

Bruno Mars, Heineken Music Hall

The Pogues, Melkweg

The popular American R&B and pop singer/

The legendary folk rock band returns to

songwriter comes back to Amsterdam.

Amsterdam. 20:30, €47.50 + membership

20:00, €36

Tennis, Bitterzoet

Evaline, Paradiso

Stripped-down indie rock from this recently

Energetic rock with layered sounds, intense

formed American band. 20:00, €10

guitars and captivating vocals. 20:00, €9 +

Danilo Perez Trio, Bimhuis

membership

Panamanian pianist Danilo Perez combines

Curren$y, Melkweg

North American jazz and soul with Latin

Prolific rapper Curren$y comes to

American Rhythms. 20:30, €22

upcoming

Sunday 10

around former metalcore band Shai Hulud’s

Lyle Lovett and His Acoustic Group,

lead singer Geert van der Velde. 20:00, €9

Melkweg

+ membership

The Grammy Award-winning country singer

Zoe D & Don P, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

takes to the stage with his acoustic band.

21:30, €4

20:00, €36.50 + membership NEeMA, Melkweg

Sunday 17

Charismatic Canadian singer NEeMA melds

The Black Crowes, Paradiso

world music, folk and jazz with a dose of

This could be your last chance to catch

pop. 20:30, €15 + membership

American rockers The Black Crowes for a

Slayer, Paradiso

while as they plan on taking an indefinite

Legendary thrash metal band Slayer are

break. They are saying goodbye with two

still together and touring 20 years after

special three-hour shows – each made

forming. 20:30, €52.50 + membership

up of a 90-minute acoustic set and a

Ricky Martin, Heineken Music Hall

90-minute electric set. 20:30, €45

20:00, €56

Mama Rosin, Paradiso

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Blues trio from Switzerland. 23:00, €7.50 +

14:30, Free

membership

Monday 11

Justin Nozuka, Bitterzoet Acoustic soul with elements of folk, blues

Brian Setzer - Rockabilly Riot!, Paradiso

and pop. 20:45, €15

Former lead singer and guitarist of The

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Stray Cats takes to the stage with Slim

14:30, Free

Jim for a night of rockabilly. 19:30, €46 + membership

Tuesday 12

Monday 18 The Black Crowes, Paradiso The second of two three-hour shows in two

Brian Setzer - Rockabilly Riot!, Paradiso

days. See Sunday 17. 20:30, €45

Karnatic Lab, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

Take That, Amsterdam Arena

21:00, Free

All five members of the ‘90s pop

Wednesday 13

supergroup have reunited for their first tour together since 1995. 19:30, from €50.50

Rembrandt Frerichs & Merel Koman, De

Taylor McFerrin, Paradiso

Badcuyp (Music Café)

The beatboxing, multi-instrumentalist

20:00, €6

producer brings his one-man soul and

Rumbistico, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

hip-hop show to Amsterdam. 22:15, €10 +

22:00, €6

membership

Thursday 14 Blondie, Paradiso

Photo: Marc Coudrais

Julidans festival On 1 July the famous Julidans Festival returns with a wide range of unique modern dance performances directed by choreographers from all over the world. This year’s programme includes many dance acts from the Middle East, North Africa and China and features acts that are rarely seen in the Netherlands. The performances will take place at stages across Amsterdam including the Stadsschouwburg, Theater When: 1-14 July Bellevue, Melkweg, Paradiso, Where: Various locations Podium Mozaïek, the Open Air Admission: Varies Theatre Vondelpark and the Bijlmer www.julidans.nl Parktheater.

Justin Nozuka, Bitterzoet Acoustic soul with elements of folk, blues and pop. 20:45, €15

It’s been almost 35 years since they released their self-titled debut and Blondie

Tuesday 19

are still putting out music. They have just

Pete & The Pirates, Paradiso

released their ninth album, Panic of Girls.

An English indie rock band bringing a

20:30, €50 + membership

fun fusion of punk and pop. Their second

Ziggy Marley, Melkweg

album, titled One Thousand Pictures, was

Reggae musician Ziggy Marley is currently

released last May. 20:00, €9 + membership

touring on the back of his latest album,

Dananananaykroyd, Paradiso

Wild and Free. 20:30, €28.50 + membership

Scottish indie pop band who have just

Two Gallants, Paradiso

released their second album There Is A

Stripped-down indie folk/rock from the

Way. 22:00, €10 + membership

American duo. 22:15, €13 + membership

Justin Nozuka, Bitterzoet

Dirk van de Wal, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Acoustic soul with elements of folk, blues

20:00, €6

and pop. 20:45, €15

Maite Hontele Quintet, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

Wednesday 20

21:30, €8

Swans, Melkweg

Friday 15

After disbanding in 1997, the influential post-punk band reunited last year and are

Electric Wire Hustle, Benny Tones, Ladi6,

back touring. 20:00, €25 + membership

Melkweg

Architecture in Helksinki, Paradiso

A night of music from New Zealand led by

Australian indie pop band known for using

the experimental yet soulful Electric Wire

a wide range of instruments in their live

Hustle. 22:00, €15 + membership

shows. 20:00, €12 + membership

The Black Atlantic, Paradiso

Hernan Ruiz, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Popular Dutch acoustic pop band formed

20:00, €6

Photo: Pitch

PITCH The first edition of Pitch, a two-day summer music festival, takes place this month in several buildings at the Westergasfabriek – the perfect location for a small summer festival. The new festival is geared towards electronic music fans and features an impressive line-up of When: July 9-10 bands and DJs including Flying Where: Westergasfabriek Lotus, The Gaslamp Killer, Little Admission: Sat: €32.50 / Sun: €27.50 or Dragon and Cut Chemist. €50 for both days www.pitchfestival.nl

upcoming

Photo: Peter Griffin

/JULYGIGS Thursday 21

veteran and is known for his electrifying

Calle 13, Melkweg

guitar solos. 20:30, €20 + membership

Eclectic and unconventional Puerto Rican

Susana Raya & Felix Hildenbrand, De

hip-hop group. 21:30, €28 + membership

Badcuyp (Music Café)

About Group, Paradiso

20:00, €6

Funky indie pop from the British four-piece outfit. 21:30, €12 + memberhip

Friday 29

Pieter de Graaf, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Peetah & Gramps Morgan, Melkweg

20:00, €6

The two brothers and members of internationally renowned reggae group

Photo: Jerry Remkes

Friday 22

Morgan Heritage come back to Amsterdam

Keko Yoma, De Studio’s Unidos

for another captivating show. 21:00, €27.50

Expect a powerful and entertaining show

+ membership

OVER het ij festival

from the Chilean rock band. 20:00, Free

Just a short ferry ride from Amsterdam Centraal Station lies the former NDSM shipyard, home to the lively Over het IJ Festival. Over the course of 11 days this month the shipyard will be transformed into an urban oasis of theatre, dance performances, live bands, DJs and delicious food. This When: 7-17 July fascinating festival is like no other in Where: NDSM shipyard Amsterdam and is a great chance to catch Admission: Varies some of Holland’s up-and-coming theatre www.overhetij.nl talent as well as performances from renowned theatre companies.

Sunday 24

Julian Braga e Convidados, De Badcuyp

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

(Music Café)

14:30, Free

22:00, €8

Saturday 30

Monday 25

Sunday 31

Joss Stone, Paradiso

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

The British soul singer comes to

14:30, Free

Amsterdam for a show the day before her fifth album LP1 is being released. 19:30, €30 + membership

Tuesday 26 Erykah Badu, Paradiso Expect a captivating show from the extremely talented singer and producer with her unique mix of soul, funk, jazz and hip-hop. 20:30, €48 + membership Gackt, Melkweg Quirky Japanese rock musician known for his electrifying live performances. 20:00, €35 + membership Setenta, Paradiso A mix of salsa and funk with elements of soul, jazz and hip-hop from the French seven-piece band. 22:15, €10 + membership

Wednesday 27 Erykah Badu, Paradiso 20:30, €48 + membership Alex Clare, Melkweg British electronic and dubstep singer and musician who is releasing his debut album this month. 20:30, €15 + membership Setenta, Paradiso Photo: EYE Film Institute

A mix of salsa and funk with elements of

Sunsets Film Festival

soul, jazz and hip-hop from the French

Starting at the end of this month and running through until September, the EYE Film Institute will be collaborating with café-restaurant Vertigo in Vondelpark on the Sunsets Film Festival. Screenings will take place every Friday evening throughout the summer and will feature classic films such as City Lights (Charlie Chaplin) and Easy Rider (Peter When: 29 July-9 September Fonda, Jack Nicholson). With a cold Where: Café Vertigo in Vondelpark drink in hand and Vondelpark as the Admission: €3 backdrop, this should be the perfect www.eyefilm.nl setting to sit back and watch a film.

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seven-piece band. 22:15, €10 + membership

Thursday 28 Queen Ifrica & Tony Rebel, Melkweg Long time collaborators Queen Ifrica

Photo: Najmudeen

Erykah Badu The charming and extremely talented Erykah Badu drops by Amsterdam this month for two shows at Paradiso. From her classic debut album Baduizm to her more recent New Amerykah Part One and Two releases, Ms Badu has proven that she is not only a master of modern soul but a true musical virtuoso whose originality and creativity is unmatched by her peers. She is joined on stage by her full band for what should be a hypnotic performance.

and Tony Rebel bring their conscious yet energetic brand of reggae to town. 21:00, €20 + membership Johhny Lang, Paradiso Although he’s only 30 this young blues singer has the voice of a 40-year-old blues

When: 26-27 July Where: Paradiso Admission: €48 + membership www.paradiso.nl

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Sex and de stad

Confessions of a Prostitute What’s it like to be a working girl? Lauren, an Amsterdam professional, reveals her deepest secrets.

This issue: Celebrity Fantasies. - By Lauren Wissot -

One of my favourite quotes comes courtesy of America’s most shameless john, the smart actor and spectacular flameout Charlie Sheen, who reportedly once told a judge sentencing him for soliciting a prostitute, ‘I don’t pay them for sex. I pay them to leave.’ Truer words were never spoken. And I’d like to add to this refreshingly honest quip that the number one difference between the highest paid Hollywood call girl and your average, Red Light lady of the night (besides the fact that the former can be arrested) lies not in looks nor carnal talent but in female discretion. Posh and Becks g Simply put, men of certain means aren’t purchasing sex from women but buying their silence. And the more they spend the greater the chances – or so they assume – that what happens in a luxury hotel room stays behind closed doors. Because there are just some things that are better left unsaid. That goes not only for naming famous names but for sexual fantasies, too. For example, I have this long-time client I’ll call Mister Footballer who – though his own desires are strictly run-ofthe-mill – insists on every date that I reveal to him a dirty dream I’ve had about some celebrity. Since doing so would be as prudent as my selling the World Cup to Qatar I tell elaborate white lies instead, express my longing for an ménage a trois

with Posh and Becks or for a Sapphic tryst with Lady Gaga. For I fear if he knew the truth – the level of bizarre depravity my thoughts really sink to – he might never pay me the same way again. Think I’m being overly cautious? Perhaps, but judge for yourself. Here are just three paparazzi snapshots from inside my perverted head:

‘Some things are better left unsaid...’ Dressed as a cigarette girl I enter the Cigar Tent of the soonto-be divorced (thank you, Maria!) Arnold Schwarzenegger to deliver a top-secret box from Havana. I light the former Governator’s Cuban. After a hilarious show that’s left me gasping for air I meet the comedian and actor Eddie Izzard backstage where the smashing transvestite and I bond over my choice of high heels. Then we go back to his tidy flat for hot tea for two. In a dark basement at an undisclosed location the overthe-hill-but-will-not-shut-up musician and spoken word performer Henry Rollins sits shackled to a chair with a ball gag in his mouth. I have the only key.

wet your whistle

Sound Garden Are you looking for classic rock music, alternative vibes and a cool beer on the canal side? Head to Cafe Sound Garden, where the backside terrace is the stage. By Caroline Goralczyk Photos Sarah Moore

e likes to cheer up the crowd with his playlists and knows most of the faces that pass through here. Onno Geerling, the bartender at Cafe Sound Garden has worked here since it opened in 1993. For him, standing behind the bar means 18 years of rock, meeting mates and telling some funny bartender stories. Once I introduce myself as a journalist he laughs and says ‘We’re already too busy, don’t give us too many compliments or our terrace will explode!’ And it’s true. Once the clock strikes 5pm, the place gets crowded pretty fast. The grunge-style terrace suddenly turns into a stage for fans of heavy rock, regulars from the neighbourhood alongside businessmen in suits, chit-chatting girlfriends and couples with babies.

Quarter past three, quarter past beer Weihenstephaner Budels, Duvel and a range of Belgian beers – that’s what Onno sells the most. You can also go for the heavier stuff such as rum and vodka, but the atmosphere around the sunny terrace just shouts for a refreshingly cold tapped beer. ‘Some people come here right after we open and the first thing they order is a beer,’ Onno says. When asked whether people tend to get too tipsy he explains: ‘As an experienced bartender, you know when your guests have had enough. I always keep the atmosphere friendly and care about the people coming here’. One of the guests sitting at the bar drops into the conversation and agrees: ‘You can tell right away if someone doesn’t fit here and is trouble. But we all kind of know each other here’.

18 years of rock and mates Many people who like to indulge their passion for rock – think AC/DC, The Sex Pistols and Rammstein – have been coming here since the very beginning. The crowd is international and it’s not unusual to hear conversations in Italian, German or Spanish. When asked why he likes to work here, Onno doesn’t hesitate: ‘The music. That’s why I’m here.’ The venue also hosts live bands, mostly in the winter months. ‘When there’s a DJ playing here, you can’t even dance because it gets so crowded’ says one of the guests at the bar. Whenever people fancy a break from their session on the terrace, the venue also offers a pool table, arcade games and table football.

When there’s a DJ, you can’t even dance because it gets so crowded

Peaceful terrace meets heavy rock Once your beer is ordered and you sit on the terrace next to the picturesque canal, you are likely to feel like you’re in the laidback backstage area of a rock concert. The hardcore Sound Gardeners like to enjoy the good prices here, meet their colleagues and praise some alternative rock in a friendly environment without restraints. If you’re looking to dive into a rocker’s hangout and at the same time relax on an unconventional terrace, this is the place to go. The prices are reasonable, the music is played with a lot of passion and the mix of people is... indeed very interesting. Cafe Sound Garden Marnixstraat 164 – 166 +31 (0)20 6202853 www.cafesoundgarden.nl Open: Monday – Thursday 1pm-1am, Fridays 1pm-3am, Saturday 3pm-3am, Sunday 3pm-1am

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Framed!

BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

11 june, 14:02 Wenkebachweg, Amsterdam-Bijlmer These boys noticed me taking pictures and wanted to be photographed really badly. They insisted on getting the Bijlmer Bajes (Amsterdam prison) in it too...

Amsterdam

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Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sneak preview!