Amsterdam Magazine no 10 - June 2011 by Amsterdam Magazine

€4.95

Yes, I’m free!

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

m a g a z i n e

5beaches Urban x sizzling

Home-Brewed Beer Brouwerij ‘t ij

Foreign Exchange ‘We are all individuals’

Peek Inside A sorority clubhouse!

And: Pimp my Bike - Amsterdam Eats @ Geisha - Museum Check: Bring the kids! - Sex and de Stad - Dutch Treat and much more!

featured sizzling urban beaches interview

14 19 46 66

Meet the Dutch: Fashion Designer Dennis Diem Word on the street: How do you like your high season experience? Foreign exchange: Spanish artist meets Dutch curator Unlock the city: Foodie style!

reportage 34 30 48

pimp my bike: Stop my Granny looking like a pile of rust! Knock Knock: Sorority girls living in the Red Light District getting around: Forest in the city

reviewed 54 65 78 81

museum check: Science Center NEMO Magnified: Jefferson Hotel wet your whistle: Brouwerij â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;t IJ amsterdam eats: Geisha restaurant reviewed

Column

77 82

Sex and de Stad: Confessions of a prostitute Framed: By Thomas Schlijper

Fashion 38

A Secret Garden in amsterdam

ART & Design 29 56

Made in holland: Design Drift Expo: Inwards and Onwards

the guide 60

Dutch A-Z

the regular 7 9 10

letter from the editor get social! heads-up: News from the city

more... 16 52 68 72

dutch treat: Hagelslag The Ten: Open-air Amsterdam captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be missed

65 5

letter

With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges. Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Cees van der Steenstraten Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Designer: Jeroen Wartenbergh jeroen@amsterdam-magazine.com

Letter from the Editor

Visualise this... You’re in Amsterdam, it’s 30 degrees, sweat is running down your back, your clothes are sticky and you’re having a hard time breathing. While you’re greedily drinking your cold beer, you almost consider taking a dive into the black canal, if only that big rat wasn’t staring at you as if to say: ‘Keep out! This is my area!’

Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Social Media: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com

At this point you’d do anything for a refreshing dip, so you head over to Centraal Station, squeeze yourself onto a train bound for Zandvoort aan Zee… and discover that almost 16 million Dutchies have had the same idea.

Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Intern: Marieke van den Berg marieke@amsterdam-magazine.com Intern: Caroline Goralczyk caroline@amsterdam-magazine.com We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com

There! You’ve found the perfect spot – a nice little hidden gem and it’s got your name on it! But – as you notice after sticking your toe in the sea and hurrying back to your towel (why didn’t anybody tell you to bring your wetsuit?) – you are not alone. ‘Pssst,’ a naked guy winks. ‘Wanna

Front Cover: Mike Peek

come over to my hollow?’

Contributors Morgan Currie, Jan Bart Dieperink, Michiel Döbelman, Caroline Goralczyk, Allison Guy, Tommy Hagen, Blair Larkin, Evert-Jan Pol, Mike Peek, Benjamin Roberts, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Marieke van den Berg, Lauren Wissot

In the background you hear your phone ring. This is where you wake

Special thanks to Bartek, Cesar, Anton Corbijn, Dennis Diem, Elisa, Meike van Esch, Foam, Nina Folkersma, Lonneke Gordijn, Harpreet, Brouwerij ‘t IJ, Joisard, Magda, Enrique Marty, Ralph Nauta, Nemo, Margje Teeuwen Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com.

up. Where am I? you wonder. And why am I not wearing any shoes? The missed call turns into an SMS. ‘How’s Wilhelminadok?’ your friend asks. You glance over the IJ and watch the passing boats. You have the terrace all to yourself. ‘Brilliant,’ you reply. ‘Just brilliant.’

Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief

Distributed for free in the Netherlands Printed at Grafius BV / Infopress Group Recycle this magazine by passing it on! --------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------

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AlexandraMarie: Just won tickets to the secret Bootleg Party in Amsterdam!!http://j.mp/k9A5AG Super stoked!!! Thanks!! @amsterdammag PlacesILiked: I am the owner of the coolest bike in Amsterdam @amsterdammag THNX for pimping my bike! AnotherWblog: An article I wrote about weird public art displays is in the May issue of @amsterdammag. Hooray! EuroAlterAms: @amsterdammag Thanks so much for the retweet! Didn’t see it till now... how rubbish of me. But thank you! :)

Sam Elony: A dog’s life in Amsterdam... www.anonym-a.over-blog.com Linda Korver: ♥ champagne @ Amsterdam Magazine

The Movies> A really beautiful old fashioned cinema that screens independent films with a restaurant/bar attached. A great place for a dinner and a movie combo. 5√ Spargo > The best terrace to catch the sun with a nice view of Oosterpark. Try the ‘Mega Vega Sandwich’ for lunch, it’s delicious 1√ Coffeeshop Paradox > A really small cute cosy cafe. Even if you’re not looking to smoke, this is a nice place to people watch and order a drink. Make sure to come in the afternoons, this place closes early! 3√ Hotel Okura Amsterdam > ‘When I leave the hotel I feel completely Zen.’ -Hotel Reviewer Vincent van Dijk. 4√

Heads-up news from the city

By Evert-Jan Pol

Ajax wins national title

Amsterdam football club Ajax has won the champions title in the Eredivisie, the most important Dutch football league. It’s the club’s 30th national title. Ajax claimed it on Sunday 15 May after a confrontation with FC Twente, which had been in the lead with just a 1-point difference before the final match. Ajax beat its rival 3-1. It was the third time this season that Ajax and FC Twente had faced each other in an important match. FC Twente won both the Johan Cruijff Schaal and the KNVB beker (the Dutch cup), but the most important prize went to the Amsterdam team – a victory that sparked celebrations throughout the city. Source: ANP Photo: Ajax / Louis van de Vuurst

Love bench There’s a new park bench in town. It’s located on the Javakade and it’s a very special one. It’s called Non je ne regrette rien (I regret nothing) and the seat is not straight, but has a dip in the middle. When two people sit down they unavoidably get close to each other. The bench, made by artist Edwin Spier, is part of the art manifestation Liefde in de stad (Love in the city), initiated by (music) theatre Paradiso. Every year artists are asked to create art that stimulates love. The bench and other loving art will be on show in the city until 30 June. Source: www.paradiso.nl Photo: Bert Kommerij

heads-up

Footpath and statues for Rembrandt

Rembrandt (1606/07 - 1669) will be honoured in Amsterdam with a footpath and several statues. The trail will follow the route that the world famous Dutch artist often walked from his house in Amsterdam to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. Over the next ten years the foundation Rembrandt aan de Amstel wants to place ten Rembrandt statues along this path, each one representing a certain period in the artist’s life. The first one is already in place. It depicts a young Rembrandt, and is located on Professor Tulpplein, across from the Amstel Hotel. Source: RTV N-H Image: Pieter Boersma

Amsterdam Diamond Center becomes Gassan Dam Square The Netherlands’ largest jewellery store is located across from the Royal Palace in the heart of Amsterdam. Amsterdam Diamond Center, which has been there since 1978, recently underwent a transformation to become Gassan Dam Square. The name change signals a new era for Dutch company Gassan Diamonds, which was founded by Samuel Gassan in 1945 and is now managed by two of his grandsons. Managing Director Benno Leeser explained that the Amsterdam Diamond Center was always known as ‘that large jewellery store on Dam Square,’ but now Gassan is a strong worldwide brand and all stores will carry the new name. Although the shop has changed, the collection hasn’t. Next to loose polished diamonds and jewellery, you can still buy your IWC, Panerai and Rolex there. The Gassan Dam Square store’s new interior was designed by Veenendaal Architects; renovations took six weeks.

Twitter tree

World’s largest mobile theme park On Wednesday 14 April, City of Fun, the largest mobile theme park in the world, arrived in Amsterdam. The park has 21 attractions, including the world’s largest indoor rollercoaster, Europe’s largest indoor haunted house and a 30-metre tall wild water track. There are also tamer attractions for children. City of Fun will stay in Amsterdam Zuid-Oost until 19 June in the P2 car park next to the Amsterdam ArenA. Source: Parool Photo: City of Fun

There’s a special tree in the Westerpark. It is not a poplar, but a Popular. The Popular is a metal tree with solar panels on it branches that generate the energy needed to keep it alive. The Popular is the only talking tree in the park. He recites messages sent to him through Twitter. And people can also talk back using the built-in microphone. But the tree only speaks when people are around. Are you around and want to hear the tree talk? Then send a tweet to @depopulair. Don’t forget to mark a subject with a #. Source: Parool Image: depopulair.nl

Pizza becomes art

Can a slice of pizza be art? To answer this question, Sam and Menno – members of artists’ collective Post Scripted Artists – decided to place slices of dried pizza alongside real artworks in several Dutch museums. Two of the slices were ‘delivered’ last month to the Stedelijk Museum and the Rijksmuseum. ‘One is an artist if his art is shown in a museum. We wonder if something is art only because it’s on show in a museum,’ they said. The museums were amused but most of them removed the pizza slice regardless. Wim Pijbes, president of the Rijksmuseum, explained: ‘It was delivered, but not ordered’. Source: ANP

Bicycle taxi fastest vehicle in city centre What’s the fastest way to get around the centre of Amsterdam? Dutch TV show Kassa decided to find out by timing how long it took a bicycle taxi, a bicycle, a tram and a regular taxi to cover the distance between Centraal Station and Museumplein. The bicycle taxi won, taking 14 minutes. But this form of transport was also the most expensive at €22.59. The cheapest ride – by tram (€1.30) – was the slowest at 25 minutes. Source: RTV-NH

heads-up

Amphibious bus in Amsterdam canals

It sounds like something from a James Bond movie, but it’s real and it’s coming to Amsterdam: the amphibious bus. The bus will soon be seen on both the Amsterdam roads and in the Amsterdam canals. Amphibious vehicles were first introduced in the 1960s, but were too unreliable to ever be that successful. But the modern Amsterdam amphibious bus, with no leakages or malfunctions, is ready for action! It will primarily be used to transfer passengers from Schiphol airport to Amsterdam city centre. Travellers with some time to spare can take the bus from the airport and take a tour along the canals. Source: ANP Photo: Splashtours

15 seconds Irritating bug under of fame attack Andy Warhol once predicted that in the future everyone would get their ‘15 minutes of fame’. But the American artist John Baldessari thinks 15 seconds is quite enough. His art project Your Name in Lights consists of a 30-metre wide LED screen filled with names. Stedelijk Museum asked him to install the screen at Museumplein where it will remain until 26 June. Anyone who wants to feel famous for a few moments can register on a special website and see their name flash up on the screen. Registration is still open: www.yournameinlights.nl Source: Stedelijk Museum

Health organisation GGD has launched an attack on the oak processionary caterpillar. The little bug is responsible for a host of health problems. The bristles along its body contain a toxin that’s harmful to humans. These bristles can easily become airborne, causing itching, rashes, conjunctivitis and respiratory problems for those who come into contact with them. The GGD is inspecting all oak trees in the city for the presence of the bugs and exterminating any infestations they find. Source: AT5 Cartoon: Crazie Dutch Men

meet the dutch

m e i D s i n n e D ner

esig fashion d

From Amsterdam’s Red Light District to Hollywood’s red carpet. For the last Academy Awards ceremony, Dennis Diem, 32, designed supermodel Dorith Mous’ stunning dress. By Benjamin Roberts

It’s hard to believe that the golden silk gown (based on the cut and style of 1940s Hollywood – think Lana Turner and Veronica Lake) was born on the second floor of Diem’s seventeenth-century canal house overlooking the epicentre of Amsterdam’s sleaziest district.

separate garment which accentuates the effects even more – pulling in the waist, pushing the breasts up, and changing the woman’s posture – it changes the entire charisma of the woman. ‘That is the beauty of fashion design,’ Diem says.

The return of a corset

In comparison to ten years ago, he believes that Dutch women are more fashion-conscious but they still tend to buy ‘throwaway’ pieces that last one season. ‘A shame’, he says, ‘since tailormade designer clothing is more durable and decadent too, especially when combined with high heels and decorated garments made from ornate fabric.’

Contrasts, however, are a central theme in Diem’s work. ‘With my latest collection, Fools Gold, I used classical patterns of embroidery in gold and combined them with coarse materials such as jute,’ he explains. He spent more than a month designing Mous’ dress for the Oscars ceremony. ‘Most of the time went into the hand-embroidered ornament that hangs over her shoulder.’ The signature in Diem’s designs are his use of the corset. Not a common accessory, although they are becoming increasingly popular. By integrating corsets into the lining of the material of a strapless dress, or using them as a

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Alexander McQueen

Diem feels inspired by fashion designer Alexander McQueen. ‘He knew how to balance historical designs and modern fashion image,’ and, (although slightly less so), by his neighbours: the women of the Red Light District dressed in leather, panther-patterns and skimpy panties. ‘I only use their high heels in my outfits’.

‘Pull in the waist, push up the breasts’

meet the dutch

dutch treat

Dutch Treat

Hagelslag TEXT BY Allison Guy

You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice? But what about Hagelslag?

Double Dutch Chocolate Pancakes In the Netherlands, hagelslag is primarily eaten on bread or toast with butter or chocolate spread. This recipe combines three Dutch food favourites – sprinkles, pancakes, and cocoa – for a decadent breakfast or dessert.

f you duck into an Albert Heijn supermarket, you might be surprised by the amount of shelf space reserved for candy sprinkles – nearly as much as for staples like beer and cheese. Some are chocolate, some are fruity, and some are super-sized or shaped like jungle animals. Do the Dutch decorate so many cakes that they need valuepacks of sprinkles? Hagelslag does show up at birthdays, but in a typical Dutch household, you’re much more likely to find it at breakfast and lunch. Instead of denting cars and bruising pedestrians, these sugary ‘hail storms’ only do damage to buttered toast or crackers.

chocolate sauce - 230ml heavy cream - 200g dark chocolate

s Try thi ! at h o m e

pancakes

No more boring toast! In Holland, hagelslag is so popular that the nation gulps down 14 million kilos each year on 850 million slices of bread. Lined up crust-to-crust, that’s enough sprinkled toast to stretch around the equator twice! Despite the deep-rooted affection for hagelslag these sprinkles have only been around since 1936. According to one fanciful story, the Dutch company Venz invented the tiny treats to satisfy a five-year-old boy who wrote to them complaining about his boring toast.

multiplying mice are a sign of fertility, or because anise is rumored to stimulate lactation. Boys get blue, girls get pink and orange is reserved for royal births in the House of Oranje-Nassau. Only in the Netherlands will you celebrate a child’s birth by handing out rodents on crispbread!

Mouse tail While hagelslag has been on the scene for a few decades, muisjes have been a bread-topping tradition since the 17th century. Muisjes, or ‘little mice,’ are anise seeds covered in a candy coating, so-called because the seed stem looks like a mouse-tail. The little sweets became associated with babies, either because ever-

For a country not known for it flamboyant foods, hagelslag is a welcome bit of silliness. Stock up on candy sprinkles while you’re here; the higher-end brands are probably much tastier than what you’ll get at home. Be careful with the gestampte muisjes (crushed muisjes, which become white powder) though, unless you want people to think you brought back more than just souvenirs from your trip.

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Bring the cream to the boil and remove from heat. Add the chocolate, and whisk until melted and well combined.

- 40g Dutch-process cocoa such as Droste or Blooker - 150g all-purpose flour - 200g sugar - ½ teaspoon baking soda - Pinch of salt - 2 eggs - 1 egg yolk - 180ml buttermilk - 1 tsp vanilla extract - 60ml flavourless vegetable oil - Chocolate sprinkles, milk or dark Combine the first five ingredients in a bowl. Whisk in the eggs, yolk, buttermilk, vanilla and oil. Heat a pan and coat with butter. Add about 60ml of batter to the pan at a time. Cook pancakes 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until the centre is cooked through. Serve topped with warm chocolate sauce and sprinkles.

Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!)

word on the street

June means nice weather, loud crowds, lost tourists on a bike they can’t handle and chaos at the park. How do you like your high season experience so far? A survey at Nieuwmarkt.

Word on the street By Caroline Goralczyk Photography: Sarah Moore

‘Amsterdam can get pretty crazy sometimes’

Cesar (29)

From: Sao Paolo (Brazil), lives in NYC Why Amsterdam? Visiting a friend and working on a film project.

What do you like about Amsterdam?

I like how it’s small and cosy because I was tired of New York. Amsterdam is also a safe place and when I come here I enjoy the liberal attitude towards smoking and soft drugs. I think this place is especially attractive to me as a film student because the

artist community here is so open-minded to outsiders. In New York it’s definitely not as open to visitors. People there dislike tourists a lot and don’t want to get in touch with them.

What is the major difference between being a tourist here and in New York?

I think New York is insanely crowded. Even though it’s high season in Amsterdam, and Queen’s Day, people here are a lot more relaxed and they’re open to everyone. I’m used to European cities in general, their small buildings, narrow streets and the contact you get with people. I think tourists and visitors are very welcome here, even if they don’t speak Dutch.

Have you experienced anything negative so far while visiting Amsterdam during the high season?

It’s hard to find negative aspects about Amsterdam, but I think sometimes people come here to go crazy and party too hard. Once I was walking towards Leidseplein and I saw people fighting over nothing with a girl being dragged off her bike. I think when people are drunk they do crazy things and alcohol is definitely the worst. People who are smoking joints are just relaxed and don’t harm anyone, but some tourists here drink until they have a hole in their head. If you meet those people during the night it can be very disturbing.

‘Travelling in India and Amsterdam is drastically different’

Harpreet (27)

From: India Why Amsterdam? Visiting a friend and celebrating Queen’s Day.

How long have you been in Amsterdam?

I was visiting my friend and I’ve stayed here for six days. I especially came here for Queen’s Day and I had a great time. I’m actually sad that I’m leaving today.

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How do you feel visiting Amster- What is the major difference dam during high tourist season? between being a tourist here I think it’s different coming to Amsterand in India? dam as a tourist or visiting friends who actually live here. I haven’t had a touristy time here because I was staying with my friend, meeting her family and I saw the city through their eyes. I didn’t even take any tourist books with me. I think this is a good way to really get to know a city without being a stereotypical tourist. Also, I came for Queen’s Day and I was surprised how well-behaved people were since this was a huge and very crowded event.

It’s very different because Amsterdam and India, those are two totally different cultural contexts. In India, the tourist industry is not as developed as here and there’s still a lot to do. I guess you can’t really compare the two because they are drastically different and in India the industry hasn’t been set up very well. People are still trying to take advantage of it. I’m sure that it’s much harder for somebody from here to travel to India on their own than the other way round. In India you have to be very careful while here I think it’s safe.

‘People here are very friendly and open-minded’

Elisa (18) and Joisard (17) From: France Why Amsterdam? They’re on a romantic trip.

What are you planning to do in Amsterdam?

Elisa: (smiles and looks at Joisard) My boyfriend gave me this trip as a birthday present, it was a very nice gift. We’re planning to just enjoy the city and see the romantic and cosy places in town. Joisard: We already went to a museum today and visited some of

the city, but we don’t have a concrete plan. We’re just going with the flow.

Have you experienced anything negative while being a tourist in high season?

Elisa: We were quite disturbed by the trash and dirt everywhere. We know it’s because of Queen’s Day, but Dam square was very filthy yesterday and we didn’t like that. Joisard: Yes, the dirt was annoying, but in general I don’t think we experienced anything negative. I actually think the people here are always very friendly and never annoyed. That’s quite special since it’s very crowded in high tourist season.

Do you see any differences between being a tourist here and in France?

Elisa: I think the tourists here are way more relaxed. Amsterdam itself is a very laid-back place with small houses and quiet canals everywhere, so the city has a very special vibe to it. But in general I think tourism is pretty much the same everywhere. Joisard: I don’t see that many differences between the tourists here or at home, but I really like that Amsterdam is quite affordable for us. We came here to have a great time together, but we have a small student budget so we probably won’t rent a bike. But as Amsterdam is not expensive for us, we should be fine.

FEATURED

SIZZLING urban BEACHES By: Mike Peek

Summer is nice and all, but it does pose some difficult questions. Like: stay in the city or visit the beach? Luckily, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to choose! Amsterdam has some great city beaches, where you can sunbathe, build sandcastles and have a drink. Or two.

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FEATURED

Amsterdammers like the sea. Bloemendaal aan Zee, IJmuiden and Zandvoort have long been favourite day-trip destinations. But what do you do if you’re just looking for an hour of beach fun right after work? Or if you don’t fancy the traffic jams on a hot day? Go to a city beach, of course! In 2002, Paris set a trend among European metropolises. During ‘Paris Plages’ the shore of the Seine becomes a sprawling beach resort. Sure, even dipping a toe in the polluted river may cause instant heart failure, but that’s beside the point. City beaches are meant for tanning, flirting, relaxing, eating, drinking and a ball game. Not necessarily for swimming.

The water was muddy and dead dogs floated around Amsterdam followed Paris in 2003, when Blijburg opened its doors. But that was by no means the first beach the city had ever seen. In fact, between the late 1920s and early 1960s, many small ‘beaches’ existed all over town. They were mostly just former construction sites, shut down when the Great Depression hit and the city

could no longer afford to expand. People gathered there to enjoy the sun because holidays were out of the question for all but the elite. Heck, even a day at Zandvoort cut deeply into an average family’s budget. Back then, the two biggest and most well-known city beaches were Het Zandland (The Sand Land) south of the Stadionkade and De Badplaats (The Seaside Resort) on the IJ river. They proved highly popular, especially when the Germans banned access to the Dutch coast during the Second World War. The sun loungers and improvised changing rooms aside, circumstances at those early city beaches were hardly ideal. The water was muddy at best and dead dogs floated around in the IJ, infecting it with very serious diseases. Still, some people couldn’t resist a bath in hot weather. After the war ended, Amsterdam started building again and the construction sites slowly disappeared. Nobody seemed to care much. They had always been an emergency solution and clean open-air swimming pools proved a far better and healthier alternative. Now, several decades later, the beaches are back. Not because we can’t afford to visit the seaside, but because we like a piece of holiday in our daily lives. >

FEATURED

Blijburg

Amsterdam’s first modern city beach is still the best and by far the most popular. Like Het Zandland and De Badplaats so many years ago, Blijburg is located in an area of urban expansion: IJburg – a new residential area built on artificial islands in the IJmeer. You can easily get there by taking tram 26 from Centraal Station. Blijburg is currently a travelling beach. When it first opened in 2003, IJburg was little more than a large sandbox with only one building completed. The beach pavilion was built on a stretch of land scheduled for construction two years later. By that time though, most residents had fallen in love with the concept of a city beach and lobbied for a new location. That location was found just 300 metres down the road. Last year, Blijburg had to move again. Its nomadic existence is not over yet. The beach will probably relocate once or twice again before settling down at a permanent location when IJburg is completed. Though Amsterdam was initially wary of (privately-owned) Blijburg, it has played an important role in selling the district to its citizens. They weren’t too keen on the whole idea of the idea at first, because IJburg would affect the IJmeer’s ecosystem and the modern artistic impressions failed to impress the conservatives in town. Frankly, many people would still rather commit suicide than live on IJburg. Blijburg, however, won them over long ago.

Activities

When you get off the tram on IJburg, you’ll immediately notice the clean, sterile architecture. The area doesn’t have a lot of soul and that’s putting it mildly. A ten-minute walk from the tram stop, Blijburg itself provides a sharp contrast. The pavilion is made from scrap wood and other waste materials. That’s partly a necessity; because Blijburg is constantly on the move, it would not pay to construct a state-of-the-art building only to have it torn down a couple of years later. But Blijburg’s organic look serves another purpose that might be even more important: it creates a laid-back, unpretentious vibe, which is strengthened further by the flowers, bright colours and a generally very mellow crowd. You know, the kind of people Southpark ’s Eric Cartman calls “Godd*mn hippies”.

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Blijburg og

‘You can actually swim at Blijburg’ Unlike to the other beach pavilions in Amsterdam, you can actually swim at Blijburg, which is a big plus. And the restaurant (closed on Mondays) serves good, mostly organic food. But Blijburg has much more to offer. A lot of activities are scheduled throughout the season, culminating in a non-stop party during the summer. DJs get the crowd moving at night and every Sunday afternoon there’s a jam session by an up-and-coming band. And that’s not all: you can also free your mind with the weekly yoga lessons or learn how to conquer waves at the surf centre. Blijburg is most renowned for its festivals. There are two big ones coming up. On 25 June, start your Summer of Love with a volleyball tournament, professional masseurs, fortune tellers and gigs by Jamie Nova and famous Dutch saxophonist Candy Dulfer, among others. On 16 July, the 7th edition of Costa del Soul will bathe the beach in sultry music. Seventy-five musicians are lined up to perform on no less than six stages and dozens of artists will showcase their talents throughout the event. Check www.blijburg. nl for the full agenda. You can also purchase your tickets there.

FEATURED

Strand West

Strand Zuid

Other city beaches

Strand West overlooks the IJ river, but swimming is not allowed. And that’s probably for the best, since the water is nasty. If you can live with that, Strand West is a great beach close to Westerpark. The restaurant is open from 10am to 11pm. A lot of locals drop by after work to enjoy the last sunbeams and catch up with friends or neighbours. The atmosphere is very relaxed and when you lie down in a hammock, you might reconsider that trip to Ibiza. Every Sunday afternoon between 4pm and 8pm a DJ spins sunny tunes and occasionally Strand West also holds barbeque parties on the beach. Strand Zuid opened in 2005 and is situated between the RAI Convention Centre and the Erasmuspark. That might seem an unlikely location for a city beach, but it’s actually kind of clever: Strand Zuid caters to both holidaymakers and business people. It’s definitely more upmarket than Blijburg and Strand West. The beach has quite comfortable deckchairs and showers that would not look out of place in an episode of 90210. There’s a volleyball court as well, but no swimming, unfortunately. Part of the beach can be covered when it rains. The restaurant is open daily from 10am till midnight and on summer weekends, DJs blow the imaginary roof off.

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Though entrance is free, these are all commercial venues. But Amsterdam has some public beaches as well. The Sloterparkbad – one of the biggest swimming centres in the Netherlands – includes an outdoor section with a beach at the Sloterplas (a big lake). There are some strips of sand outside the Sloterparkbad’s borders as well, if you don’t feel like paying the modest entrance fee. Swimming in the lake is allowed, but the still water is often plagued by bacteria during heatwaves. Then there’s the Gaasperplas, another lake in the southeast of Amsterdam. It’s a solid option if you want to go Dutch and bring your own food and drinks. You’ll have to by the way, because cafés have not proved viable here in the past. Swimming is permitted.

At Strand Zuid DJs blow the imaginary roof off The atmosphere at both lakes is very different from the pavilions. They’re great if you just want to relax, read a book or take a dip, but don’t expect the summer holiday vibe provided by Blijburg, Strand West or Strand Zuid.

Work is in progress at NDSM wharf. A new urban beach will open there around midJune!

FEATURED

Don’t fancy sand between your toes, but still want to get tanned while sipping a mojito? There are always Amsterdam’s many terraces to relax on and enjoy the sun. Here are my top picks: Café DEK5 This café is located on top of Science Center NEMO. Its terrace (named BovenNEMO) offers deckchairs and great views of the city. Some even call it a city beach, but we’ve got to draw the line somewhere: no sand = no beach. Still a lovely spot though. The terrace is freely accessible to the public; you don’t have to pay the museum’s admission price. Grand Café l´Opera The best terrace on Rembrandtplein is that of Grand Café l’Opera. It has a very Parisian vibe to it, as does the beautiful art deco interior. Great place for coffee or a beer after exploring the square, but l’Opera does lunch and dinner as well. The food is fairly simple, but tasty. Pacific Parc Hip and happening. Located inside the Westerpark, Pacific Parc’s large terrace gets a LOT of sunshine throughout the day and attracts a pleasantly mixed, slightly alternative crowd. Lie down on the adjoining lawn or have a reasonably priced meal at Pacific Parc’s restaurant. It has a nightclub too, so you could practically live there. Wilhelmina Dok You’ll have to hop on the (free) ferry to Meeuwenlaan in Amsterdam Noord, but from there it’s just a 5-minute walk to Café-restaurant Wilhelmina Dok, offering great food and even better views of the IJ river. Having dinner? Be sure to order their white chocolate cake for dessert. It’s yummy. De Ysbreeker After a major renovation last year, De Ysbreeker is hothothot right now. Excellent wine and delicious oysters may keep you glued to your chair for hours. (If you can find a chair, that is – the terrace is relatively small.) It’s location overlooking the Amstel cannot be beat.

made in holland

Design Drift By Morgan Currie

We’ve heard of dandelion wine, but what about dandelion lighting? Design DRIFT, a studio founded by Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta, explores this fantastical notion with their installation Fragile Future 3. It’s an intricate, handcrafted grid of glass and phosphorus bronze circuitry containing real dandelion seeds affixed to LED lights. The delicate, dynamic modularity of the circuits seems to draw inspiration from the dandelion itself, mimicking the flower’s ability to disseminate and reproduce by catching the slightest breeze. Fragile Future 3 is part of a series started in 2006 by the Eindhoven Design Academy graduates and developed in collaboration with the Carpenters Workshop Gallery. Gordijn and Nauta’s combined expertise in production techniques and strong concepts have garnered international accolades, including awards from the German Design Council, the Pavilion of Art and Design London and the Dutch art competition ‘Artiparti’. The duo describes their designs as an effort to relieve contemporary pressures on our oversaturated senses, reestablishing balance with more spiritual, emotional values. It’s for this reason, they say, that ‘light has been one of our favourite mediums; light expresses emotions in a very direct way.’ www.designdrift.nl

knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives Eight sorority girls living in the middle of the Red Light District. Isn’t that asking for trouble? Amsterdam Magazine takes a look inside the girls’ clubhouse and talks to Bernou (21), Eline (21), Florien (23) and Josephine (21). by marieke verhoeven | photography: sarah moore

t’s not hard to spot the residence of these sorority girls from the Amsterdam student society. The small street tucked between the Nieuwmarkt and the Oudezijds Achterburgwal has only one house with bikes stacked outside; the others have red lights and women standing in the window. ‘Well, they’re not actually real women ,’ Josephine explains. ‘They’re she-males (ed., men that want to be women) from Latin America. Usually they stay here for a year or so, make a lot of money, and then go back for their operations.’ >

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‘They’re she-males from Latin America.’

knock knock

‘All the prostitutes, drug dealers, bar owners, They look out for us.’

Welcome to the Red Light District. In 1998 sorority club Dis bought this house on the Bloedstraat (Blood street). It’s so-called because cow’s blood used to flow down the street from the market on Nieuwmarkt to the canal. ‘The street is even a little tilted,’ says Florien. ‘That way, the blood could flow easier.’ Before the sorority bought the house, it served as a Jamaican hair salon and, not surprisingly, a brothel. ‘If you look at the ceiling here in the living room, you can still see the partitions they made to split the space into different “workrooms”,’ she says.

Shower Fights Nowadays, the house holds few clues about its past. With its large, faded sofas, eight messy yet cosy rooms, and pictures and posters everywhere, it’s a typical student house. Perhaps a

bit cleaner. ‘We have a fixed schedule where two of us clean the living room every weekend. It works pretty well, we never argue about it,’ Eline explains. ‘In general, we don’t fight at all, which is quite unusual for eight girls.’ Even sharing the two bathrooms goes surprisingly well. ‘Except for Eline, who can easily spend half an hour in the shower! ’ Josephine jokes. There are a few rules though. ‘You can live here for a maximum of four years and have to be asked to join,’ Bernou explains. ‘There are no specific criteria, you just have to fit in and be a sociable type, because as far as privacy goes, there’s not a lot of it. This is not only our house, but also the sorority’s clubhouse, so the other girls can come in whenever they want. Especially during inauguration the house is constantly packed.’ Sounds like fun, but not when exams are coming up. ‘We do try to take it easier during those periods. There has to be space to study and be serious as well,’ says Florien.

Guy in Blue stockings As for anecdotes about living in the Red Light District, the girls have quite a few. Bernou bursts out laughing: ‘ Remember that time the guy was dragged into a police car, screaming and kicking, dressed in only his underwear? ‘

‘Or that other guy, who was really fat and was carried from one of the prostitutes’ rooms on an ambulance stretcher? ’ adds Josephine. ‘ He had a pair of bright blue stockings on, I’ll never forget that.’ Crazy things definitely happen, but the girls never feel unsafe walking around alone at night, as Eline explains: ‘I think this neighbourhood is safer than some other parts of the city, because there are a lot of police around and there are always people on the streets.’ And the girls are known by the locals, Josephine notes. ‘All the prostitutes, drug dealers, bar owners, they all know we live here. They even look out for us a little bit.’ ‘The working girls let us know if someone’s trying to steal our bikes or wants to enter the house,’ adds Florien. The only inhabitant who has ever been harassed is their house cat Vlerk. ‘Someone tried to kidnap him once,’ says Bernou. ‘But the she-males stopped it. And Vlerk has fallen in the canal three times. We suspect he was kicked in at least once.’

pimp my bike

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY arun sood photography: sarah moore

Meike Van Esch, 30

‘Stop my granny looking like a pile of rust!’

t’s easy to see why the word for a traditional Dutch bicycle might seem a little derogatory. Omafiets, which literally translates as ‘granny bike’, refers to a bike that’s past its heyday and consigned to a crippled life in someone’s garage (although hopefully you wouldn’t treat your grandmother that way). However, you only have to look around Amsterdam to see how popular omafiets actually are. With their elegantly curved frame, covered chain guard and sturdy upright practicality, Amsterdammers simply love to cycle around on these old yet stylish bicycles.

RUSTY GRANNY Meike Van Esch has always preferred Dutch ‘granny bikes’ to more modern designs. Yet it wasn’t until recently that she realised just how old her bike looks. ‘I recently moved house and when the removal men saw my

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bike, they thought it was going to be left outside with the garbage,’ says Meike. ‘I didn’t realise how broken and old it looked, but when I saw their reaction I became really ashamed! It still rides really well, even though it looks like a pile of rust.’ Meike, who works as a charity fundraiser, has since been embarrassed by the look of her battered old ‘granny bike’. While she maintains it’s the most comfortable bike she’s ever owned, its rusty frame and flaking paint have caused her to become rather self-conscious about her beloved set of wheels. So on her 30th birthday, Meike’s thoughtful boyfriend, Jeroen Van Beek, decided to contact Amsterdam Magazine to spare her any more shame. ‘Obviously, it was a bit of a hard day for me turning 30,’ Meike laughs. ‘But my boyfriend’s surprise lightened things up, especially after what happened with the movers!’

Margje Teeuwen The Pimping Artist

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The movers almost left her with the garbageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

pimp my bike

‘Nobody messes with my granny now.’

Excited at the prospect of seeing her favourite bike with a brand new makeover, Meike decides to let this month’s pimping artist decide what to do with such a rusty old frame. ‘Since I was a little girl, I’ve always liked the colour pink, but anything that stops it looking so rusty will suit me,’ she smiles. ‘I also like to be surprised, so I’m happy to let the artist do anything they want.’ ARTY SHADOWS This month’s artist, Margje Teeuwen, is about as multi-dimensional as they come. Under the umbrella name Product Margje, she specialises in all things creative, from product design to interior architecture and graphic communication. Having had formal training as an interior architect, Margje soon found the need to express herself in other ways and began to concentrate on different styles of painting alongside her interior design work. ‘Looking back, I realised that architecture is something you can learn at school, whereas an artist is simply just something that you are,’ says Margje. ‘It comes from within.’ Margje has even more strings to her bow than an array of artistic endeavours. She has also played in more than 145 matches for the

Dutch national hockey team and made it to the Olympic finals in 1996 and 2000. Despite such a great sporting achievement, Margje jokes that she simply couldn’t contain her artistic urges any longer. ‘I think the point I realised my destiny as an artist was when I started noticing how beautiful the shadows on the pitch were,’ she laughs. ‘I began to pay more attention to them than the other players around me!’ Rather than being overwhelmed by diversity, Margje thrives on expressing herself in different ways throughout life and continues to find inspiration for her art in this manner. ‘People often want to put you in one place or identify things in a bracket,’ she says. ‘I want to prove that you can be everything you want to be. Life is multidimensional and I like it that way.’ GRANNY GETS HIP Margje’s strong sense of individuality is also evident in her painting process. Her trademark style is to mix her own paints and pour them on canvas from a standing position, often using swirling motions to create different textures. She decides to use this technique for Meike’s bike and begins by laying it flat on the floor and pouring gloopy layers of paint over the frame. After a few hours of drying time, Margje continues

the process on the other side of the bike until it’s completely covered, with subtle hints of pink shining brightly through. Margje adds some charismatic finishing touches by giving the bike a tie and zipper across the frame. Meike’s rusty old ‘granny’ just got a whole lot hipper and is completely transformed. Upon seeing her bike, Meike smiles. ‘I can’t believe how different it is, there are so many details. It’s much better than before and it looks like a tough girl now!’ Thanks to Margje’s expert pimpin’ skills, it seems this is one granny that nobody will mess with anymore.

Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

What lies behind a 17th century canal house? Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for you to discover! Every year on the third weekend in June the Amsterdam Open Garden Days are held. On the 17, 18 and 19 of June some 30 canal gardens will be open to the public.Â For more info, visit: www.opentuinendagen.nl

Photography by Richard Bakker

Dress: Tony Cohen Bracelet: Otazu Belt: Laura Dolls Heels: Giuseppe Zanotti

Blouse: Dagmar Trousers: Missoni Belt: Laura Dolls Necklace: P atrizia Pepe

Dress: Dagmar Necklace: Otazu

Open-back dress: Dagmar Earrings: Otazu Ring: Dyrberg Kern

Sleveless silk top: Carin Wester (via nr.9) Skirt: Dagmar Coat: Camilla Norrback Glasses: Bettnes Earrings: Dyrberg Kern Bracelet: Otazu Heels: Humanoid

Dress: Rodebier Earrings: Otazu

Styling: Equiline van Dooren@HOO Make-up: Maaike Beijer@Angelique Hoorn for M.A.C Hair: Tommy Hagen@HOO for Tommyztoko.nl Assistant Hair: Nahlae Saied Model: Noah Steenbruggen@ULLA Concept by Tommy Hagen

foreign exchange

Are you an

individual? Spanish artist Enrique Marty and Dutch curator Nina Folkersma on fanaticism, the power of crowds and the vulnerability of individuals. ‘Fear is essential.’

By Caroline Goralczyk

Enrique: When I observed the financial crisis in 2008 I felt like the whole world was behaving like idiots. It made me realise what fanatic behaviour is about, how a group can influence the actions of individuals and how people are blindly following each other until eventually I felt the need to express this in my art. Nina: I got involved with the topic when Castrum Peregrini (ed., a cultural organisation) started a research project with artists from all over Europe working on fanaticism and what it means to be fanatical about something. I was invited to one of their meetings and that’s where I came up with the idea to install an exhibition. You can see that there’s a lot of nationalism and populism everywhere with people spreading fear about foreigners. The title of this exhibition is from a famous movie by Monthy Python: The Life of Brian. There’s this one figure who everybody thinks is Jesus, but then he tells the crowd ‘You don’t need to follow me, you are all individuals, you are all different!’ and the crowd

(Denma rk) ‘Grou p 30’ less indiviad he 30 A group of sed circle. clo a in duals standing Da ni el Svar re

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replies ‘Yes, we are all individuals!’ There is only one who says: ‘No, I’m not.’ It’s very interesting to examine the relationship between the individual and the crowd. That’s what this exhibition is all about. I first made an exhibition in Belgium, which was a rehearsal for my big installation in the Kunsthalle Mannheim in Germany. Initially, I had 60 fanatic figures in my work that were all representing myself. The installation looks like a land of pilgrims that are worshipping something. On the wall painting you can see that they’re losing their identity, they are transforming into the tail of a serpent. They’re fanatics in a completely general way – not only in a political or religious sense – because even though they look like they’re experiencing religious ecstasy and they’re vomiting, they’re also praying for the ones who are sceptical. I’m depicting the crowd in a long procession towards a guillotine. I like the guillotine

as a symbol because it has only one purpose and you can’t miss it. In my painting it looks like a monster in the shadow with the crowd walking towards it in a very heroic way, as if they are ready to die.

Fanaticism is created with the figure of a hero

What’s the idea behind all the figures representing you? It’s for different reasons. One is that I tried to use the most anonymous face I could use. If I used someone from my family, people could think I’m obsessed with them. So I’m showing my face because it’s me that’s the artist and actor at the same time. I’m also a fanatic and this is not bad in itself. The problem occurs when you put a lot of fanatics together. I think fanaticism is everywhere, not only in politics.

foreign exchange

You can see the same fanatical dynamic in crowds at concerts as you can with the neo-Nazis – they show exactly the same behavioural patterns. Yes I agree. Also the images we’ve recently seen when Osama Bin Laden was killed resemble this. Americans were shown cheering and partying on the streets. These images are very similar to the ones from the Arabic world of people celebrating after 9/11. This also makes me think of football game dynamics with people shouting out the scores Obama 1: Osama 0. What do you think about these dynamics? I think the dynamics of group fanaticism are also created with the figure of a hero. For me the hero is one of the most ridiculous figures. It’s used to create someone who is going to sacrifice himself for the others but that’s a completely stupid and fake idea. It’s the same with propaganda pictures – they are producing heroes all the time. It’s as if you first have fear and then there is only one hero who can save you. And I also think that fanaticism is touching upon fear,

Enrique Marty, born 1969 in Salamanca, Spain, is a contemporary artist fascinated by human psychology, the exploration of the soul and the fanatic behaviour of crowds and individuals. Ever since his first solo exhibition in the Kunsthalle Mannheim in Germany (2010), Marty also exhibited his impressive installations internationally, including exhibitions in Madrid, Den Haag and Amsterdam.

it’s creating fear. It’s exactly what we see now, people’s fear of foreigners coming to their country and invading their space. What role does fear play in fanaticism for you? I think fear is essential to fanaticism. One of the tactics the Nazis used was to keep people with them that were not accepted in society or in their families, people who didn’t have many friends. They told them they were special and that the others simply didn’t realise it. People who are insecure and weak are very likely to fall into that trap.

A friend could be a dictator...’

That also counts for religions and satanic cults. When you’re secure and have no fear, you wouldn’t join a fanatic group because you wouldn’t need them to feel strong. Have you done any exhibitions focusing on the weakness of the individual? A lot of my work talks about that. I’m currently working on an animated film about a person who’s completely isolated and has a lot of inner fear, but never shows it. He’s a real character and one of my friends. He’s a very big and quiet guy who tends not to

move a lot, but on the inside he’s always in rage. I think he could actually be a dictator. I know a lot of people that would be able to kill other people if they were given the power to do so. What do you think about the individual as a weak being? The energy between the individual and the crowd is what I mainly want to address with this exhibition. I’m trying to make people aware that there’s this kind of archetypal image of the group. We always think that fanaticism is something outside of us, something that would never affect us because we’re well-educated and smart. I think everybody is susceptible to fanatic behaviour and perhaps intellectuals especially, because they think that they would never fall into it. There was a lot of writing about power just after the Second World War because this was the most catastrophic example of what could happen if we all follow one leader and one state of mind. Already then people were saying that the only way to avoid fanaticism is to be aware of how susceptible we are to it. And that’s where art can help too.

Nina Folkersma is a Dutch curator who has worked with various international art projects. For the exhibition You are All Individuals at the Castrum Peregrini, she had artists collaborate on the topic of individuals and fanaticism.

getting around

Rent a canoe!

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getting around

Forest in the city By: Mike Peek

Is it a park? No! Is it a forest? No! Well, not really. The Amsterdamse Bos is more like a hybrid of the two. A forest-park at the edge of the city.

ize-wise, the Amsterdamse Bos is comparable to the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, but that’s where the similarities end. It’s a completely artificial affair, designed to create that out-of-town feeling. Construction started in 1934, offering welcome unemployment relief during the Great Depression. The last tree was planted 36 years later. It would have been finished sooner, but we had some issues with the Germans.

Get lost A few statistics: the Bos spans 1000 hectares, contains 137 kilometres of footpaths, 51 kilometres of cycle paths and 50 bridges. It was laid out in the same English landscaping style used for the Vondelpark. The slopes, corners and vistas are designed to make the forest look far bigger than it actually is. The cen-

tral hill plays an important role in creating this illusion. Towering 16 metres above its surroundings, the hill is quite unique for a Dutch landscape. You might think you’re in Switzerland! (That was a joke.) The rowing course running adjacent to the forest is just one of many sports facilities the Amsterdamse Bos has to offer. Others include tennis courts, hockey fields and a cricket pitch. For casual visitors the walking, running, cycling and horse-riding routes running through park are probably of greater interest though. They are clearly signposted and each one focuses on different highlights. The walking trails are between 5 and 7 kilometres long, but if you have good shoes and enough time, try wandering around. You can see the entire forest in one (long) day and getting lost is near impossible. Trust me, I tried.

getting around

Build huts The Amsterdamse Bos has a wide variety of flora and fauna. The oldest sphere is the Polder Meerzicht, a very Dutch landscape with marshes, flood plains and dykes. Before the forest was constructed, the whole area looked like this. There are several birds to be spotted, including godwits and redshanks. It’s also the quietest area of the park, perfect for some private contemplation. The centre of the forest gets notably more visitors, especially in summertime. Rightfully so, because there’s a lot to do besides walking, picnicking and chilling. The outdoor theatre hosts concerts, and each Saturday at 2pm you can hop on a boat running through the canals while the captain explains what you’re seeing. If you want to be pampered, Spa Zuiver – a wellness centre in the woods – will certainly meet your needs. Like any park, the Amsterdamse Bos is also perfect for a family outing. There are two children’s swimming pools, a maze and two ‘adventure’ islands filled with shaky bridges and other attractions. The youngsters are even allowed to climb in the trees and build huts. The islands are located in ‘De Grote Vijver’ at the heart of the forest. This lake is a perfect place to have a drink and rent a canoe or water bike to test your sea legs.

Rope ladders and Tyrolean traverses Even if you don’t have children, the goat farm is a very interesting place. Sure, the little ones will love caressing the tame goats and romping in the playgrounds, but the farm is more than a petting zoo. It’s also a centre of biological agriculture. The education room focuses on teaching about the importance of sustainable farming and you can witness the feeding and milking of goats. There’s a restaurant on-site serving lunch, drinks and (if you book ahead) high tea. The adjoining farm shop sells all kinds of products such as goat’s milk, goat’s cheese and even goat’s milk ice cream! It’s quite good and a godsend for those with a cow’s milk allergy. Looking for more adult entertainment? Head for the Zonneweide to get a tan while wearing only your birthday suit. There’s only one entrance to this secluded area, so don’t worry too much about intruders attacking your vulnerables. Alternatively, visit the Fun Forest climbing park for a serious outdoor workout. The park features eight trails filled with rope ladders, bridges and Tyrolean traverses between 5 and 15 metres high. Advance reservation is recommended and nude climbing is strictly forbidden.

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There are swimming pools, ‘adventure’ islands and a maze

Getting There Take bus 170 or 172 from Centraal Station, or bus 166 from Amsterdam Zuid, and get out at the Van Nijenrodeweg. From there, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a two-minute walk to the Visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Centre, which sells a variety of maps for just 50 cents. Each one highlights a different walking or bike route. For more information about the Amsterdamse Bos, check www.amsterdamsebos.nl and look for the English section.

the ten

Open-Air Amsterdam Amsterdam is notorious for its unspectacular weather. That’s why, after enduring months of biking through rain, sleet and snow, us ‘dam-dwellers will be out sunbathing at every opportunity once the summer finally arrives. Here are ten outdoor activities to keep you out in the open air.

By Marieke van den Berg

Open-Air Theatre

When: From 5 June-28 August WHERE: Vondelpark ADMISSION: Free How about a little sun to go along with culture? This open-air theatre provides a summer-long programme of live cultural acts in the beautiful green pastures of Vondelpark. From cabaret to world music, there’s something for everyone. And it’s free!

City Beaches

WHEN: All summer long Where: North of Westerpark / IJburg ADMISSION: Free No need to jump into a dirty canal when the heat is on. Did you know that Amsterdam boasts several city beaches? Strand West and Blijburg are two top picks. Located just north of the Westerpark, Strand West is the most convenient beach in town to lie out in the sun. Here, you can play beach volleyball, have bonfires, barbeques, or head to the Strand West bar and restaurant for cocktails and tapas. If you’re looking for a more intimate setting, take tram 26 to Blijburg on IJburg, in the northeast of Amsterdam. This beach is known for its relaxed bohemian vibe where you can enjoy the sand and sun with evening campfires and live music at sunset. Want to know more about beaches in and around Amsterdam? Check out our feature on page 22.

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TAste Amsterdam

WHEN: 22-25 June Where: Amstelpark ADMISSION: Presale: Standard €15 / Premium €32.50 / VIP €65 / Kids aged 6-12 years €7.50 Got a taste for the finer foods in life? Head to the culinary festival Taste Amsterdam! This delectable event showcases the finest gastronomic delights the capital has to offer. Mingle with top chefs as you sample signature dishes from 17 prestigious restaurants such as Restaurant Ron Blaauw, Julius and La Garage. Improve your culinary skills and discover a stunning selection of fine wines and specialty food, all in the beautiful surroundings of the Amstelpark.

The Open Garden Days

When: 17-19 June Where: Various, including Bijbels Museum, Museum Willet-Holthuysen, Huis Marseille and Museum Van Loon Admission: €15 Every year in the third week of June, Amsterdam opens its gates for the Open Garden Days. This year, the theme of the event is ‘Colour in the Canal Gardens’. Horticulture fans can visit around 30 picturesque canal gardens between 17 and 19 June. Tickets can be purchased for €15 at selected gardens. All participating gardens can be reached by foot, but there will also be a special canal boat to take visitors from one location to the next. For more info, visit www.opentuinendagen.nl

the ten

Amsterdam Roots Festival

When: 22-26 June WHERE: Oosterpark ADMISSION: Free Tired of the ubiquitous techno and electro scene? Then head over to the Amsterdam Roots Festival – a five-day event showcasing world music talent from outside of Western Europe. Established international acts will perform everything from hip-hop to reggae alongside up-and-coming bands. On the last day, the festival will close with a free open-air concert in Oosterpark.

When: Every Saturday evening in June, July and August WHERE: Artis Zoo ADMISSION: Kids (aged 3-9) €15.50 / Standard €18.95 / Senior (65+) €17.50 Every Saturday in the summer, Amsterdam’s Artis Zoo stays open until the sun sets. The famous ZOOmeravond (summer evening) offers a diverse program of ‘behind the scenes’ peeks at zoo-keeping activities. There’s also a varied programme for kids including music, theatre and special Artis stories. The evening ends with a performance by a famous artist as the sun goes down.

9 8

Cycling Amsterdam

When: Anytime! WHERE: Amsterdam ADMISSION: Free The best way to truly discover Amsterdam is to do as the ‘dam-dwellers do: cycle! Navigating this compact city by car is almost impossible, and public transport is boring. On a bike, you can roam around the entire city centre in half an hour and even ride out into nature if you want to escape the hustle and bustle. Bikes are available to rent at dozens of locations throughout the city, and prices start from €6. Tip: Take the free ferry from behind Centraal Station to the north of Amsterdam and bike through the countryside.

ZOOmeravond at Artis

The life Aquatic

When: All year long Where: Varies by company Admission: Varies by company A boat ride along the canals is the perfect way to see the city. You can even combine Amsterdam’s love of bikes and water with the Canal Bike, where drivers cycle and glide through the canals at their own pace. If you fancy a traditional boat tour, there are plenty of options. Or how about renting your own private boat for the day, or enjoying a romantic three-course dinner with your loved one on the Dinner Boat Cruise?

BROWSE THE MARKETS

When: Daily, except Sundays Where: Throughout Amsterdam Amsterdam is renowned for having a diverse open-air market culture. From the famous Albert Cuypmarkt – the largest daily market in the city – to the lively Dappermarkt offering North African culture and fresh produce. If you love flowers, check out the Bloemenmarkt, a floating market filled with exotic flowers, plants and tulip bulbs. For thrift shopping and touristy gifts, Waterlooplein is the place to be. If you’re in the market for vintage gems, check out the Noordermarkt on Mondays.

the Rolling Kitchens

When: 2-5 June Where: Westergasfabriek Admission: Free From 2 to 5 June, the Westergasfabriek will be transformed into one big openair restaurant on wheels! The Weekend of the Rolling Kitchens will be packed with foodie vendors offering all types of cuisine. Try a fresh Italian pizza served from an eccentric car or go high-end with a barbecued lobster. There will be crepes, cocktails and sausages galore!

Photos courtesy of Science Center NEMO

museum check

Science Center NEMO Jutting into the water like the prow of a surreal ship, the copper-green NEMO is easily the most jaw-dropping building along the IJ bay. But is it the most impressive museum too? Amsterdam Magazine puts NEMO to the test!

By Allison Guy Opened in 1997 as the ‘New Metropolis’, it was renamed NEMO in 2000, and remains the biggest museum devoted to science and technology in the Netherlands. The dark, industrial-chic interior is roomy enough to park a zeppelin, and offers four floors overflowing with cosmic ray counters and working waterfalls. NEMO might mean ‘no one’ in Latin, but it felt like everyone in Amsterdam under the age of 13 was there. On the second floor, there’s an ongoing experiment that

I am here with my two boys. The kids, their favourite part was the water – anything with the water. For me personally, I didn’t like the part with the brain so much. Everything was presented pretty well. Some stuff is hard to figure out; as I already knew the meaning, I could 8 3 , k explain it to my enbeec s e W n boys, but they Bas v a might not have understood it on their own.

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A Touchy-Feely Place NEMO’s motto is ‘forbidden not to touch,’ so the museum practically buzzes with interactivity. It drives home scientific concepts through video games, bubbles, and a Rube Goldbergesqe ball ‘factory’.

aims to create life using the same conditions on earth 4 billion years ago – about how old I felt dodging flocks of wideeyed youngsters. There’s fun to be had for adults, but NEMO was made for the playground set.

Many of the exhibits need at least one buddy to work, so it’s advisable to come with a friend or your science-loving spawn. I could have grabbed one of the roving children to be my partner, but it somehow felt weird to ask a stranger’s kid to explore the ‘Personal Space’ activity.

‘Forbidden not to touch’

Along with genetics and magnets, NEMO can also be an unintentional lesson in humility. The exhibits might be geared towards kids, but still it took me a heck of a long time to figure out what

This is my first time in Amsterdam. I came here to see the electric car and the clean energy exhibit. The whole idea is very interesting, considering we’re going to run out of petroleum soon. The exhibition was small, although it was nice to see the ideas in practice. The museum is very nice for the kids, to get to learn a bit of science by Julian a D al seeing and touching. Piv a , 25 It’s not a museum for adults. Also, the view is very nice!

It’s good for children and teenaged students to learn science. It’s perfect, because it really has everything included in the admission. I still had fun, even though I’m an adult. I think my favourite part was the second floor with the machines. The building is nice; it’s very modern and contemporary. I was too tired to go up on the roof. ral, 24 Vu k ru Fa ar Om

museum check to do with the mass spectrometer. Maybe it’s something you have to be prepubescent to understand. Speaking of puberty, NEMO’s ‘Teen Facts’ explores some of the joys of adolescence, from pimple myths to oversized cloth tongues that let visitors French kiss like giants. Older kids may get a thrill out of the sex ed section, guarded from younger folks by watchful attendants. The tiny space packs in more facts about reproduction than the two sex ‘museums’ in Amsterdam, and will give teens the impression that sex is both funny and confusing. In other words, a pretty accurate warning. Square in the Sky At the very top of the building, NEMO’s most visible attraction soars above the quay: a terraced roof free to enter and free for lounging. There’s a basic café, fantastic views of the city, and true to the centre’s spirit, an interactive fountain to splash around in. Since it’s public, it officially counts as the highest square in the Netherlands. If you’re travelling with kids, their hyperactive little selves will welcome the break from old churches, old paintings and, even worse, old people. If you’re on your own and over the age of 12, don’t be too worried about giving the place a miss, unless you bunked all of your school science lessons and are looking to brush up. If it’s a sunny day, though, there aren’t many places that can beat NEMO’s rooftop deck for kicking back with a beer and pondering the mysteries of mass spectrometry. Science Center NEMO Oosterdok 2 www.e-nemo.nl

The Verdict: Value for money: 3/5 Waiting time in line: Minimal during the week, can be long on weekends. Museum Card holders can check-in instantly via a kiosk. Entrance: €12.50 for everyone aged 4 and over. Free for children of 3 and under, and for people named Nemo. €7 for the I Amsterdam city card holders, and free for Museum Card holders. Comments: Within the iconic NEMO building are five floors offering a broad overview of scientific concepts from DNA to electricity, presented entirely through interactive exhibits. Kids will be wildly enthusiastic about the ‘ball factory’ and the water purification plant. Adults with kids will have a good time, although there’s not much here for the childless. The roof is a fantastic place for a panoramic view of the city, and gives an up-

close look at the building’s architecture for free. Wheelchair friendly: All floors are accessible via lift. English friendly: Nearly all information is in Dutch and English. Films are subtitled in English, so children that can’t read yet may need help. The museum guides are friendly and bilingual, but the live demonstrations are only conducted in Dutch. Museum hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm. NEMO occasionally has extended hours or Monday openings during holidays. Check the website at www.e-nemo.nl. Closed on 1 January, 30 April and 25 December. Roof hours: The roof has free admission during the regular hours of the museum. It may be closed during bad weather. Address: Oosterdok 2

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expo

Inwards & Onwards Anton Corbijn pointed his camera at artists such as Alexander McQueen, Iggy Pop, Damien Hirst, Tom Waits, Bruce Springsteen, Lucian Freud and Karel Appel to capture their characters and their struggles with the creative process.

FOAM 23 June - 1 September Open: Wed to Sat, 1pm to 6pm. Entrance: â&#x201A;Ź8 Keizersgracht 609 +31 (0)20 5516500 www.foam.org

Anthony Kiedis West Palm Beach, 2003.

expo

Alexander McQueen London, 2007.

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expo

Gerhard Richter Keulen, 2010.

Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and

often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can

dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

Amsterdam

Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange

L Lekkerbek

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P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution

(New Year’s Dive)

Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.

dutch a-z

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

V VOC

in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

(Dutch East India Company)

Water management

The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on

the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet (Black Pete)

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.

magnified

JEFFERSON HOTEL shop

espite the name and initial appearance, the Jefferson Hotel is not one of Amsterdam’s top

hotels but a luxury fashion boutique aimed at stylish, street-savvy men.

By Arun Sood

As you approach the Jefferson Hotel, you can be forgiven for thinking it might be a nice place to spend the night. Even the triangular flags draped outside give the impression of a hotel entrance and you almost expect to see a white-gloved doorman welcome you and take your bags.

Laid-back lobby

Created by Jeffrey Sluijzer in 2009, the concept store aims to combine the consideration and care of the hospitality industry with high-end men’s fashion. Unlike many other boutiques that espouse an air of exclusivity, the Jefferson Hotel has an immediately warm and laid-back atmosphere. As you enter, piano music gently plays in the background and Jeffrey welcomes you with an offer of a drink from the ‘bar’ – which also doubles as a cash desk.

Having spent years working for various fashion labels, Jeffrey decided to open his own shop and use his childhood fascination with hotels as a basis for the concept. ‘When I was younger, I was really intrigued by hotel lobby areas,’ he explains. ‘I used to watch different people interact and the idea that they all felt at “home” when they weren’t was always interesting to me. I wanted to create a similar environment in my shop.’

‘A shop that feels like your home’ Five-star fragrances

The shop specialises in a wide range of labels such as Diesel Black Gold, Maharishi and Ontour and also stocks a selection of rare vintage accessories. Glass cabinets are filled with vintage Rolex watches, and custom-made Ray Bans are neatly lined-up alongside designer fragrances that look like they’ve been plucked straight from a five-star hotel’s bathroom.

As you move towards the back of the shop, a soft leather sofa invites you to take a comfortable seat and soak up the surroundings in front of a widescreen television. Eclectic fashion and design books are scattered across a coffee table and wine glasses are conveniently placed around the area, allowing you to mull over the clothes and accessories with a tipple or two. The focus at the Jefferson Hotel is most definitely on customer service and despite its relatively small size, it’s somewhere you could easily spend a couple of hours browsing the stock or just relaxing in the lounge. While many other boutiques have a tendency to rush customers into purchases, this quaint little shop will have you feeling comfortable enough to kick off your shoes and lie back. Just be careful you don’t get too comfortable though, remember you can’t actually stay the night.

Jefferson Hotel Elandsgracht 57 +31 (0)20 3307865

unlocking the city

Foodie S

tyle!

unlocking the city

Allow our clued-up ’dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, foodie chef Jason Hartley gives us the inside scoop on Amsterdam eating. BY: SARAH MOORE

Jason Hartley [38] Founder & Chef at lovefood | www.lovefood.nl

Where are the best places to get fresh ingredients in Amsterdam? Just getting the basics can sometimes be a struggle, but I like that in a way because here the butcher can still exist. For great meat, there’s an organic butcher on the Elandsgracht called C. Van der Gracht. I get fantastic organic turkeys from there. It’s bloody expensive, but it’s the best. For cheese, Kef on the Marnixstraat has a brilliant selection. It’s been around for 60 years so they really know their cheese. Which neighbourhood is the best for foodies? I’m gonna be selfish and pick the one I live in which is the Jordaan. That’s just because you can throw a blanket over it and you’ll cover 50 different places to eat. However, that said, it can be very samey. De Pijp is great for variety. Where do you take guests out to eat when they come to visit? I go to the places I trust and I’ve been going to for a long time. We do our brunch at Vlaming on the Prinsengracht but they have another one that’s just an eetcafe which is great. A La Ferme is straight-down-the-line French bistro food. The Béarnaise pork is one of the nicest things I’ve had there. If I want a great posh lunch on a weekend, I go to the Belhamel on the corner

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of Brouwersgracht and the Herengracht. They have tables right on the canal which is a plus. La Olivia in the Jordaan is a Spanish tapas bar but instead serves pinxtos – larger version of tapas. It’s so good, I’ve been there six times in three months! Where would you take someone on a date? Start in the Jordaan. Get a pizza at La Perla, ice cream for dessert around the corner at Monte Pelmo, and finish up with a great cocktail at the Vesper Bar. What do you think of Dutch cuisine? It’s too easy to knock it. It’s simple peasant-like food but there’s some great stuff in there. There’s a lack of creativity that’s missing but you see the potential. Greetje is the only restaurant that I believe serves true modern Dutch cuisine. Using the whole animal, locally sourced ingredients and simple, big flavours.

Lovefood hosts monthly pop-up brunches and dinners in Amsterdam under the philosophy of celebrating and sharing the cherished food at the heart of all our cultures.

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

CAPTURED By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

Planet E 20 / 1 YR AIR Queen’s Night 2011 was a double birthday celebration: the 1st birthday of Club AIR, and the 20th birthday of Carl Craig’s label Planet E. Naturally Carl was spinning at AIR that night, together with the mysterious Moodymann, Dutch legend Dimitri Kneppers and resident Freddy Spool. In the smaller room (AIR2) the guys from Dekmantel: Jan van Kampen, Bob Nagel and Michael Jacques held their own party. It was an epic night! club air

29 april >

Photos: Laura Visser - www.defotomeisjes.com

captured

Photos: Giusy de Ceglia

Birthday party of MORRIS (the Dutch Paris Hilton)

An outrageous birthday party thrown by one of Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite socialites featuring DJs Claire & Sheila Hill, The Ponytails, Mc Diva Mayday and Miss Bunty. On the guestlist were Dutch celebrities Olcay Gulsen, Edgar Davids, Stacey Rookhuizen, Rik van de Westelaken and Patty Brard. Jimmy Woo

< 7 May

captured

The bootleg

Photos: Nilo Perez

The location was secret, the dresses were glamorous and the crowd shared a passion for the roaring ‘20s. Going to a Bootleg party is all about being shrill, using code words, dressing up and partying the night away at a mystery location. The event is organised by Lloyd & Acardi, an organisation specialising in theatrical events and flirtatious nights such as the notorious New Year’s parties Eyes Wide Shut, La Famiglia and Amadeus. Supported by international acts, various DJs and the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra playing authentic ‘20s tunes, Bootleg is one of a kind. Secret location

21 may >

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Rotzooi Q day madness

Acid techno, ambient, classics, deep house, disco, funk, groove, house, minimal, tech-house, techno, tribal house... the Rootzooi Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day party at Westerunie had it all!

Photos: thehospages.com

Klonneplein (outside Westerunie)

< 30 april

Michiel DĂśbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions has organised events for Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

upcoming

By Blair Larkin

/JUNEGIGS Wednesday 1

the American singer/songwriter. 20:00, €10

Levellers, Paradiso

+ membership

English rock band Levellers celebrate

VanVelzen, Heineken Music Hall

the 20th anniversary of their classic

Popular Dutch singer. 20:30, €32.50

album Levelling the Land. 19:30, €20 +

Joseph Tawadros Quartet, Bimhuis

membership

20:30, €18

Shane Alexander, Paradiso

Gaiteros de San Jacinto, Tropentheater

Folk-tinged rock with intimate vocals from

20:30, €28

the American singer/songwriter. 20:00

Photo: Ruth Walz

holland festival This month Amsterdam is once again home to Holland Festival - the biggest international performance arts festival in the Netherlands. Top artists and performers from around the world as well as some lesserknown acts will provide an exciting mix When: 1-26 June of theatre, music, dance, opera, film, Where: Various locations visual arts, literature and architecture. Admission: Varies The festival is taking place at various www.hollandfestival.nl locations around the city.

€8.50 + membership

Sunday 5

Cactus Truck and Ab Baars, Terrie Ex &

The Powerfest, Melkweg

Han Bennink, Bimhuis

Rock and metal festival featuring Bring

A mix of jazz, blues, bop and funk from the

Me The Horizon, Escape the Fate, Anti-

two trios. 20:30, €15

flag, D.R.U.G.S. and more. 14:00, €40 +

Detour, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

membership

20:00, €6

Truckstop Honeymoon, Paradiso Energetic bluegrass and punk from the

Thursday 2

eccentric duo. 19:30, €8.50

Dark Dark Dark, Paradiso

Julian Marley, Paradiso

American chamber folk sextet. 19:30, €10 +

Probably the least well-known of Bob

membership

Marley’s sons but still well worth seeing

Pigbag, Paradiso

for any roots reggae fan. 20:30, €18 +

After disbanding in 1983 post-punk band

membership

Pigbag are back touring with their mix of

Hazmat Modine, Paradiso

punk, jazz, funk, ska and reggae. 21:00. €16

Expect a mix of blues, jazz, indie folk and

+ membership

ska from this American group. 21:30, €15 +

Boucale, Bimhuis

membership

Dutch band Boucale pay tribute to

Clazz Ensemble, Bimhuis

composer and alto saxophone player Paul

20:30, €15

Termos. 20:30, €15

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Duo Quartier Latin, De Badcuyp (Music

14:30, Free

Café) 20:00, €6

Monday 6

Einstein Barbie, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

Wu-Tang Clan, Melkweg

20:00, €8

Eighteen years later and Wu-Tang Clan still ‘ain’t nothing to fuck with’. A show not to be

Photo: David Vos

Vondelpark open-air theatre Every summer Vondelpark’s open-air theatre comes alive with performances from musicians, dancers, comedians and actors. This year the festival starts on 5 June and will feature modern dance on Friday evenings, kid’s theatre and jazz on Saturday afternoons, comedy on Saturday evenings and music When: 5 June-28 August on Sundays. The music will cater to all Where: Vondelpark tastes with classical, pop, rock, jazz Admission: Free and world music on offer. A great way www.openluchttheater.nl to spend the weekend without spending any money.

Amsterdam

magazine

Friday 3

missed by lovers of real hip-hop. 20:30, €38

Blank Dogs, Paradiso

+ membership

Multi-instrumentalist Mike Sniper stops

Thee Oh Sees, Paradiso

by Amsterdam for a show as the one man

Thee Oh Sees have a lo-fi electric-acoustic

post-punk band Blank Dogs. 20:00, €9 +

sound but definitely don’t subscribe to a

membership

particular style. 20:00, €10 + membership

Def P & Beatbusters, Melkweg

The Naked and Famous, Paradiso

Old school Amsterdam rapper Def P has

New Zealand rock band whose debut album

reunited with ska band Beatbusters almost

Passive Me, Aggressive You, was well

ten years after disbanding. 20:30, €12.50 +

received in New Zealand, Australia and the

membership

UK last year. 20:30, €14 + membership

Diederik Rijpstra’s Wampum, Bimhuis

Monday Match, Bimhuis

Trumpet player Diederik Rijpstra with his

Musicians and dancers collaborate to create

new band Wampum. 20:30, €15

improvisational performances in front of a

Fiesta Cubana, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

live audience. 20:30, Free

22:00, €5

Tuesday 7 Saturday 4

Indievloot, Paradiso

Spank Rock & Amanda Blank, Melkweg

Indie concert featuring Wye Oak, Herman

A mix of hip-hop, electro and rock from hip-

Dune, Cave Singers, Blues Brother Castro

hop group Spank Rock and singer Amanda

and No Joy. 19:00, €12.50 + membership

Blank. 21:00. €15 + membership

Katy B, Melkweg

Jessica Lea Mayfield, Paradiso

Dubstep, R&B and house singer Katy B

Dark, melancholic country and rock from

is touring to celebrate the release of her

upcoming

debut album On a Mission. 20:30, €14 +

Guitarist Gary Lucas presents an ode to

Dan Mangan, Paradiso

membership

Chinese pop from the thirties. 20:30, €19

Canadian indie folk rock singer. 20:00, €8 +

Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Ruth & Band, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

membership

21:00, €4

22:30, €8

Jason & The Scorchers, Paradiso

Wednesday 8

Saturday 11

rock, punk rock and country, Jason & The

Katie Melua, Heineken Music Hall

Emergenza, Melkweg

Scorchers are known for their energetic live

Georgian born jazz and blues singer Katie

Watch the best up-and-coming Dutch bands

shows. 22:00, €15 + membership

Melua’s debut album Call Off The Search

compete for a spot in the international

Orchestre National de Jazz, Bimhuis

made her the highest selling female artist

final of this worldwide festival. 18:00, €18 +

The acclaimed French jazz orchestra

in Europe in 2004. She has since released

membership

present new arrangements of Robert

three more albums including her latest

YelaWolf, Melkweg

Wyatt’s songs. 20:15, €30

The House which was released last year.

Rapper YelaWolf is touring ahead in

Karnatic Lab, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

20:00, € 45.

anticipation of his upcoming album

20:30, Free

Afterhours, Paradiso

Radioactive. 21:00, €15 + membership

Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Italian alternative rock band. 20:00, €10 +

The Golden Palominos, Bimhuis

21:00, €4

membership

The Golden Palominos have recently

Liza Lim, Uri Caine & Musikfabrik,

reunited and bring their mix of jazz, pop,

Wednesday 15

Bimhuis

funk and rock back to the stage. 20:30, €18

Rob Zombie, Paradiso

With a sound that alternates between

Metal icon Rob Zombie takes to the stage

20:30, €20 Daniel de Moraes, De Badcuyp (Music

Sunday 12

with his talented band. 19:30, €37 +

Café)

JT & The Clouds, Paradiso

membership

20:00, €6

Expect a mix of country, roots rock, folk,

TenTemPiés, Paradiso

Amsterdam United in Sound, De Badcuyp

soul, indie rock and everything in between

Amsterdam based band who blend rock,

(Concert Hall)

from the American band. They are joined by

ska, reggae and Latin American music.

21:00, Free

Allison Russell. 16:00, €9 + membership

Tonight they present their new album Canto

OHAF, Paradiso

Para Gritar. 20:30, €6.50 + membership

Thursday 9

A night of late eighties and early nineties

The Asteroids Galaxy Tour, Melkweg

The Kooks, Paradiso

acid. 22:00 €55 + membership

Six-piece Danish alternative pop band.

Catchy pop and rock from the multi-

Thione Seck, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

20:30, €13 + membership

platinum album selling English band The

An intriguing mix of Senegalese music and

Interactivo, Bimhuis

Kooks. 20:30, €34 + membership

Eastern music from India and the Arab

A fusion of Afro-Cuban music and hip-hop

Curry & Coco, Paradiso

world. 20:15, €30

from the funky Cuban band. 20:30, €20

French duo who use drums and vintage

Prime Circle, Bitterzoet

Senior Citizens, Bitterzoet

synthesizers to create a unique style of

South African rock band who have had

20:00, €5

electro pop. 22:00 €8.50 + membership

great success in their native country.

Gerard Rosales, De Badcuyp (Concert

Hollywood Undead, Melkweg

20:00, €8

Hall)

American rap rock band touring on the

Photo: JW Kaldenbach

ArtZuid This summer, the south of Amsterdam will be a giant outdoor sculpture gallery thanks to the initiative known as ArtZuid. Apollolaan, Minervalaan and the Zuidas are now home to 50 sculptures by renowned artists from around the world. A walk along the route should take around two and a half hours. When: 27 May-28 August Where: South Amsterdam Admission: Free www.artzuid.com

22:00, €6

back of their latest album American

Monday 13

Tragedy. 20:00, €14 + membership

Tom Russell, Paradiso

Thursday 16

Battles, Melkweg

Real Texas country music with elements

Papercuts, Paradiso

American experimental rock group. 21:00,

of folk from the American veteran singer/

American indie pop musician Papercuts

€17 + membership

songwriter. 19:30, €12 + membership

comes to Amsterdam shortly after

Encryption, Bimhuis

Abe Vigoda, Paradiso

Improvisational jazz, funk and rock from

releasing his fifth album Fading Parade.

Tropical punk rock (I’m not sure what that

Ronald Shannon Jackson, Vernon Reid and

20:00, €10 + membership

means either) band whose recent work has

Melvin Gibbs. 20:30, €20

had more of a synth rock feel. 22:00, €10 +

Chic, Paradiso

Kiss Me Kill Me, Bitterzoet

membership

20:00, €8

Jonathan Coulton, Melkweg

Nadjazzda, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

American singer/songwriter known for his

20:00, €6

quirky songs about geek culture. 20:30, €18

New Gear, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

+ membership

21:30, €8

Steve Lehman Trio, Bimhuis Labelled as one of the most exciting

Get ready for a night of disco and funk from the band best known for its 1978 hit single

Le Freak. 20:30, €30 + membership Fink, Sugar Factory Ninja Tune signee and singer/songwriter Fink takes to the stage just days after releasing his fifth album Perfect Darkness. 20:00, €15

Friday 10

saxophone players on the current scene,

Pokey LaFarge & The South City Three,

Steve Lehman fuses jazz with elements of

Das Pop, Melkweg

Paradiso

hip hop and electronic music. 20:30, €18

20:30, €14 + membership Liam Finn, Bitterzoet

Fresh and quirky mix of blues, country and jazz. 20:00 €8.50 + membership

Tuesday 14

20:00, €12

24 Pesos, Paradiso

Raul Malo, Paradiso

Jon Irabagon’s Foxy Trio, Bimhuis

English band who play traditional blues

The former lead singer of country band The

20:30, €18

with a funky twist. 22:00, €9 + membership

Mavericks is in town for a solo show. 19:30,

The Ploctones, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

Gary Lucas, Bimhuis

€22.50 + membership

21:30, €10

Wu-Tang Clan There aren’t too many groups around who have had as much of an impact on hip-hop as the Wu-Tang Clan. From their classic debut Enter The Wu-Tang (36 Chambers) to the countless classic solo albums from the group’s members, Wu-Tang have gained a huge following around the world. This is guaranteed to be an unforgettable show.

When: 6 June Where: Melkweg Admission: €38 + membership www.melkweg.com

upcoming

Photo: Peter Griffin

/JUNEGIGS Friday 17

Teitur, Paradiso

Enter Shikari, Melkweg

Award winning singer Teitur Lassen with his

English post-hardcore band known for their

string quartet. 21:00, €12.50 + membership

powerful live performances. 20:00, €15 +

Konrad Koselleck Big Band, Bimhuis

membership

Music inspired by Mendelssohn’s

Morning Parade, Bitterzoet

Midsummer Night’s Dream by the exciting

Rock music with a nineties dance anthem

jazz orchestra. 20:30, €14

influence. 20:00, €12 Fratelli Mancuso, Bimhuis

Tuesday 21

20:30, €19

Culture, Paradiso

Anibal Velazquez y Los Locos Del Swing,

Jamaican roots reggae veterans Culture

Tropentheater

are still touring more than 30 years after

20:30, €23

forming. 19:30, €20 + membership Avery Sunshine, Paradiso

Photo: ITs Festival

ITs Festival Amsterdam Amsterdam’s theatres open their gates for a wide range of impressive theatrical performances by Dutch and international theatre graduates. For 22 years, the International Theatre School festival has been a professional springboard for many emerging talents in the performance art and dance genre. This year, ITs’ opening act will be When: 23 June-1 July De Hollanders, a piece directed by Where: Various Gerardjan Rijnders with a special Admission: €9-€13 guest appearance from author Arnon www.itsfestivalamsterdam.com Grunberg.

Saturday 18

Cheerful soul and gospel from the

Primus, Paradiso

American singer. 19:30, €12 + membership

American band Primus’ diverse sound has

Miles Kane, Bitterzoet

enabled them to gain fans from just about

The former frontman of The Rascals drops

every sub-genre of rock during their career

by for a solo show. 21:00, €12

that spans more than 25 years. 19:30, €25

Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

+ membership

21:00, €4

The Mummers, Paradiso Orchestral melodic pop music from the

Wednesday 22

eight-piece English group. 22:00, €8 +

Social Distortion & Frank Turner, Paradiso

membership

The American punk rock band are joined

Khaira Arby, Bimhuis

by English folk and punk singer/songwriter

The powerful and beautiful voice of Malian

Frank Turner. 19:30, €27.50 + membership

Khaira Arby backed up by ripping electric

Cage the Elephant, Paradiso

guitars and funky drums. 20:30, €20

Expect an energetic performance from this

Gert Vlok Nel & Chris Chameleon,

American rock band who are touring their

Tropentheater

latest album Thank You, Happy Birthday.

19:30, €20

21:30, €12 + membership Inti Illimani Historico & Eva Ayllon,

Sunday 19

Tropentheater

Harry Manx, Paradiso

Latin American music from the Chilean

A blend of blues, folk and Hindustani

band and Peruvian singer. 20:30, €28

classical music. 19:00, €12.50 +

Wim den Herder, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

membership

20:00, €6

Warpaint, Paradiso

Photo: Roots Festival

Amsterdam Roots Festival The Amsterdam Roots Festival returns this month, offering five days of music and entertainment from all corners of the globe. From the 22nd to the 25th of June, international acts and local talent will take to the stage at Tropentheater, Sugar Factory, Paradiso and Melkweg. On Sunday the 26th the festival will head to When: 22-26 June Oosterpark for a free open-air concert Where: Various Locations with music and performances on seven Admission: Varies different stages. www.amsterdamroots.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

Experimental art rock group from the up-

Thursday 23

and-coming American group. 20:30, €16 +

Arctic Monkeys, Paradiso

membership

The rock supergroup comes to Amsterdam

Vetiver, Paradiso

shortly after releasing their fourth album

Quirky and warm indie folk music. 22:00,

Suck it and See. 20:30, €38 + membership

€10 + membership

Toto, Heineken Music Hall

Bombay Bicycle Club, Melkweg

A diverse array of genres from the band

Alternative rock band hailing from London.

who enjoyed great commercial success in

20:30, €15 + membership

the eighties with hits like Hold the Line.

Amanda Strydom & David Kramer,

20:00, €49

Tropentheater

Buke and Gass, Paradiso

18:00, €20

Experimental indie rock duo known for

Jazz Session, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

their unusual instruments and entertaining

14:30, Free

performances. 22:15, €9 + membership DeVotchKa, Melkweg

Monday 20

A mix of gypsy, indie folk and rock ‘n’ roll.

Tom Vek, Paradiso

Brazilian Caravan, Sugar Factory

English one-man band Tom Vek combines

The Amsterdam Roots Festival kicks off

electronic music with indie rock, punk and

with a night of Brazilian folk, rock, jazz and

dance. 20:00, €10 + membership

electronica. 20:00, €15

Graduation Jazz Festival, BImhuis

€16 + membership

20:00, Free

Ryan Bingham & The Dead Horses,

Kees Post Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Melkweg

20:00, €6

Rock and Americana from the grittyvoiced singer and his band. 20:30, €16 +

Friday 24

membership

Imam Baildi, Paradiso The second night of the Amsterdam

Tuesday 28

Roots Festival with experimental Greek

House of Pain, Melkweg

band Imam Baildi. They are supported

After disbanding 14 years ago, the group

by Arifa and Karsu Donmez. 20:00, €15 +

best known for their classic single Jump

membership

Around are back together and touring.

Toto, Heineken Music Hall

20:30, €32.50 + membership

A second concert from the popular eighties

Eels, Paradiso

band. 20:00, €49

Pop and rock with a blues influence.

Farmers By Nature, Bimhuis

Support from Jesca Hoop. 19:30, €32.50 +

20:30, €18

membership Quadron, Paradiso

Saturday 25

Soulful down-tempo beats with

Rick Ross, Heineken Music Hall

mesmerising vocals from the Danish neo-

Mainstream rapper who shot to fame with

soul duo. 22:30, €12 + membership

his debut album Port of Miami in 2006.

Mark Zandveld, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

19:00, €35

21:00, €4

Murder, Paradiso

Dear Lord The Ploctones, De Badcuyp

Dreamy melodies and melancholic vocals

(Concert Hall)

from the Danish duo. 19:00, €8.50 +

21:30, €5

membership Amsterdam Roots Festival, Melkweg

Wednesday 29

The Amsterdam Roots Festival continues

Shane Shu, Paradiso Dutch band with an eighties pop sound. 20:00, €8.50 + membership Anthony B, Paradiso Expect a high energy show from this prolific Jamaican reggae artist. 20:30, €21 + membership Odd Future, Melkweg Alternative hip-hop group who have been receiving a lot of attention lately. Not for the faint hearted. 20:30, €20 + membership Willemine Semeins Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

with a night of flamenco and Cuban and Venezuelan rhythms. 19:30, €30 + membership Easy Star All Stars, Bitterzoet Reggae group known for covering popular songs with a reggae twist. 20:00, €15 David Moraes and Band, Bimhuis 22:00, €20 Maitre Tambours du Burundi, Tropentheater 21:00, €26 Juliana Braga, De Badcuyp (Music Café) 22:00, €8

Sunday 26 Boysetsfire, Melkweg After a three year hiatus, post-hardcore band Boysetsfire are back touring again. 20:30, €16 + membership The Weakerthans, Bitterzoet

20:00, €6

Thursday 30 Ice Cube, Paradiso Legendary rapper Ice Cube is still touring more than 20 years after his classic debut. 20:30, €29.50 + membership Death Cab for Cutie, Melkweg

A blend of punk-inflected folk rock from the

Lo-fi melodic indie rock. 20:00, €18 +

Canadian band. 20:00, €12

membership

Ferial’s Sunday Session, De Badcuyp

Femi Kuti & Positive Force, Melkweg

(Music Café)

The son of legendary afrobeat pioneer

19:00 €4

Fela Kuti comes to town with his band and their own brand of afrobeat and jazz. 21:00,

Monday 27

€27.50 + membership

Eels, Paradiso

Keep an Eye Summer Jazz Concert,

Pop and rock with a blues influence.

Bimhuis

Support from Jesca Hoop. 19:30, €32.50 +

20:30, Free

membership

Witmer Trio, De Badcuyp (Music Café)

Far East Movement, Melkweg

20:00, €6

The popular electronic hip-hop group are

Koffie, De Badcuyp (Concert Hall)

touring after a successful 2010. 20:00,

21:30, €6

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Sex and de stad

Confessions of a Prostitute What’s it like to be a working girl? Lauren, an Amsterdam professional, reveals her deepest secrets.

This issue: open-air sex! - By Lauren Wissot -

Ah, summer, the sexiest time of the year – or if you live in Amsterdam, the sex-and-drugs tourism time of year. While I’m usually a big fan of discretion, these long languid months are a perfect excuse to throw caution to the wind, show some skin and engage in public displays of affection. If you’re reading this in a hostel near the Red Light District, no, you can’t afford me. But if you’re simply seeking spots for you and your partner to intercourse al fresco I encourage your lust – with some caveats. Which is why I’m sharing my top three picks for places you’ll want to avoid lest your tryst turn your summer vacation into one you’ll want to forget.

‘It could make you swear off Viagra for life’ Beaches. They seem like a good idea at the time, but sand is not comfortable. You might as well be screwing on a bed of nails. And even if you bring a blanket and lather your privates with sunscreen, let’s face it, sex on the beach is so last-century lame. If an alcoholic beverage is named after an act of amour it’s a sure sign that even your grandma’s done it. (Ditto for the mile-high club – so don’t even think about doing the nasty in

an aeroplane toilet. You’ll regret it when you have to face your fellow passengers – who needed to use the loo for its intended purpose – at baggage claim later. Trust me. Or just ask Ralph Fiennes.) A Nicolas Sarkozy-sized ego g Rooftops. Obviously not a smart move for those with a fear of heights. But even if you’ve got a fetish for skyscrapers, rooftops are not conducive to private liaisons as they’re a communal space. Roofs are for music parties under the stars and social gatherings of people who don’t want to be interrupted by your groans and moans while they’re trying to make small talk or look cool. (Though I guess inviting all your friends and neighbours to a high-rise orgy might be acceptable.) Vondelpark. Yes, it’s legal here in Amsterdam to use the park as your lust-after-dusk playground. But contrary to what one might assume, this is not the ideal place for exhibitionists to strut their naked stuff. Think about it. Vondelpark is a popular cruising spot, so you and your mate will have loads of competition. And like with the Internet’s ‘Chatroulette’, voyeurs can simply move on to the next sex act if yours proves too boring. They might even yawn. So unless you’ve got a Nicolas Sarkozy-sized ego, sex in Vondelpark could very well make you swear off Viagra for life.

wet your whistle

Brouwerij ‘t IJ Light blonde, middle blonde or dark? How about a freshly brewed beer on a sunny terrace this summer? Leave the office and head to the lively Brouwerij aan t’ IJ. By Caroline Goralczyk Photos Sarah Moore

oing to the IJ Brouwerij is like entering your favourite local pub but better: it’s cheaper, sunnier, and their beer is brewed in a windmill. ‘Working here is a lot of fun because I see many familiar faces every day and everyone’s very friendly. It’s really easy to get to know people here,’ says Allard, one of the pub’s cheerful bartenders. And he’s right. Only five minutes after grabbing a drink, the beer has done its work and I drop into a laid-back conversation with the people sitting next to me. It all started with an egg Founded by former Dutch pop star Kasper Peterson, who lives above the pub, the IJ brewery opened in 1985 in a windmill beside the river IJ. Out of passion, Peterson started brewing his first beer named ‘Zatte’ which is still the most popular beer in the pub. ‘On a very busy day we sell about 12,000 litres of beer and sometimes you have to wait for a while to be served,’ says Allard. When asked why the pub sells eggs as snacks, he explains: ‘This place is named after the river “IJ”, pronounced in Dutch as “Ei” (egg). The beers come in various percentages and tastes, but what they have in common is that they’re all named after eggs and birds.’ You can go for the IJ wit (‘egg white’), the ‘ColumbusIJ’, the ‘StruisIJ’ (oyster egg) or the ‘PaasIJ’ (‘easter egg’) to name just a few. Summer in the City ‘Once the sun comes out in Amsterdam, the IJ Brouwerij is the place to be in the city,’ says Allard, pointing to the populated benches outside. The IJ brewery also offers a wide range of seasonal specials. For the summer, they

recommend the ‘IJ wit’ with a hint of lemon and coriander (€2.30). Around Easter, the brewery introduced its special ‘PaasIJ’ beer, which was so popular that it sold out within days. For people interested in the beer production process, the brewery offers tours every week on Friday, Saturday and Sunday which conclude with a beer tasting session. Enjoying the prestige of being specially fermented and brewed by traditional craftsmen, the beers are also exported to various bars and shops around the Netherlands. Tipsy Once you’ve experienced an ‘IJ buzz’, it’s nearly impossible to stop. The beer is delicious and it quickly rushes to a hardworking man’s head. If you ever wonder why the brewery is only open from 3pm until 8pm daily, there is an answer. The quality of drinking here is high, but the prices are astonishingly low. Once the beer lovers get their drinks going, people can get pretty tipsy. During my visit, one of my inebriated neighbours was ushered out of the pub. So whenever you plan to visit the Brouwerij ‘t IJ to have a relaxed drink (or three) until sunset, enjoy its wares to their fullest and remember to stay friendly.

One of my inebriated neighbours was ushered out of the pub

Brouwerij ‘t IJ Funenkade 7 +31 (0)20 6228325 www.brouwerijhetij.nl Open everyday from 3pm - 8pm

amsterdam eats

amserdam eats

Geisha BY: hungry in holland

In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits Geisha: fine dining with an Asian twist.

t’s sometimes hard to enjoy post-work drinks when a long day has you yearning for a satisfying meal. In Japan, the answer to this problem comes in the form of Izakayas. Rather than being restaurants that serve accompanying drinks, Izakayas are drinking establishments which serve food that’s considerably more substantial than your average bar. Similar to tapas, guests share a variety of dishes throughout the evening whilst merrily sipping on saké and beer. Geisha Restaurant & Lounge, located directly opposite Centraal Station, takes elements of the Izakaya eating experience and combines it with an upscale Western restaurant environment, making for a unique dining concept in the heart of Amsterdam. Samplers Galore After being told that there was no difference between appetisers and entrees on the menu, my partner and I started by sharing three different ‘dishes’. Within minutes, out came the vegetable tempura, seafood pearls and Kobe beef dumplings. It was obvious at first glance that none of these dishes were in the least bit authentic. To our surprise however, the pan-Asian twist was executed fairly well with each dish containing a flavourful surprise. The vegetable tempura, battered Japanese-style, was garnished with Thai chilli peppers rather than the traditional soy-based dipping sauce. Given my penchant for all things spicy, I happily accepted this as an enhanced version of the traditional Japanese tempura. While the dumplings were served in minute portions, they were bursting with flavour due to the fine quality of the Kobe beef. Delectable Delights For round two, we opted for the Chinese BBQ with fried rice, served with a platter of mixed sushi. Once again, the sushi came with all manner of unlikely garnishes such as mango with Scottish salmon and strawberry drizzled on the nigiri tuna. While the dishes were far from traditional, the fresh seafood and innovative presentation certainly made up for it. The Chinese BBQ, though hearty and substantial, was a bit too sweet and the sauce overwhelmed the flavours of the beef. We finished with a crème brûlée served with

‘None of these dishes were in the least authentic’ The Outcome F Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior Value for Money

Final Score:

§§§42 §§§§2 §§§42 §§§22

7.0

Round-Up Cuisine: Asian Neighbourhood: City Centre Atmosphere: Fine Dining Price pp: €30-€50 Open: Monday - Saturday 6pm - 11pm Public transport: Across from Centraal Station Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: No

walnut ice cream and a chocolate pie which came with sesame ice cream. While both desserts were satisfying and well presented, it would have been nice to see some more uniquely Asian desserts on the menu. Come almost hungry After sharing seven minuscule dishes of high-quality ingredients, I hoped to leave the restaurant feeling stuffed and satisfied. Yet there was ultimately something lacking in the whole western Izakaya concept. Perhaps I’m just biased towards the more rowdy and casual Japanese-style snacking environment and dabbling in pan-Asian dishes in an haute western restaurant feels a little too sterile. Nonetheless, the food was still good and the service was great. If you love authentic Asian food, this is not the place for you. But if you’re looking for upscale Asian fusion or a light romantic meal for two, you will surely be satisfied. And if you don’t like the food, you can still keep yourself happy by sipping on saké throughout the evening.

What others said: Iens.nl: “Good food. we have taken the 3 course menu, really nice but we found it a bit too expensive, but worth trying.” - Adriaan Tripadvisor.com: “Watch out for the dish ‘Chinese vegetables’ which is actually one type of vegetable.” - Ho-li-daaay Geisha Restaurant & Lounge Prins Hendrikkade 106 A +31 (0)20 6262410 www.restaurantgeisha.nl

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Framed!

BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

21 MAY, 23:03 BAANBRUGSTEEG On a warm spring evening Amsterdammers take their living room out onto the street.

Amsterdam

magazine

Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sneak preview!