Amsterdam Magazine no 3 - November 2010 by Amsterdam Magazine

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And: Pimp my Bike - Hotel Casa 400 - Dutch Treat - Upcoming - Sex & de Stad - Best of Amsterdam - and more...

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About Amsterdam Magazine

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With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges.

To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office at: +31 (0)20 8461690.

Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine

Would you like to become a distributor of Amsterdam Magazine? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com. ---------------------------------------------------------Amsterdam Magazine is printed at Senefelder Misset BV Distributed for free in the Netherlands © Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2010. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.

Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com Creative Assistant: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com Distrubtion Manager: Liam Carter distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com

Amsterdam

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Contributors Wieke Braat, Bob Bronshoff, Catherine Conroy, Vincent van Dijk, Michiel Döbelman, Dutchgrub, Linda Engels, Tommy Hagen, Daniela van der Linde, Mike Peek, Rosanne Prakke, Linda Leonard, Marit Smit, Marieke Spanjaard, Thomas Schlijper, Marieke Verhoeven, Eva van Wijngaarden, Helen Worswick Special thanks to Mac Bike, Amber Myhre Bosch, John Digweed, Ingeborg van der Does, Youp van ‘t Hek, Emma Helsloot, Veronique Hoogendoorn, Frederick Jensen, Merel Kappelhoff, Sander Pappot, Marielle Rijpma, Anne Lieve Ruijter, Tamara Tong Sang, Dre Urhahn, AmsterSam for the frontcover Join the team! If you have a story to tell or a picture to share, contact us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com and tell us all about it!

featured SQUATTERS IN AMSTERDAM Idealists or profiteers?

interview 22 42 50

Word on the street Meet the Dutch: Youp van ‘t Hek import / export: Dre Urhahn & John Digweed

reportage 20 32 46 54 87

urban jungle: An Artis update Knock Knock getting around: IJmuiden pimp my bike: Sander Pappot gets creative golden key: Tips from the experts

reviewed 18 59 71 92

dutchgrub: Bistrot Neuf magnified: Cherry Sue museum check: The Amsterdam Dungeon Amsterdam Sleeps: Hotel Casa 400

Column 97 98

Sex and the Stad Framed: by Thomas Schlijper

Fashion 36

Shadow Play

ART 64

Expo: Immersion

the guide

60 83 74

Dutch A-Z Free City Map Best of Amsterdam

the regular 11 12 14

letter from the editor spamsterdam heads-up: News from the city

more... 44 84 88 90 94

46 10

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dutch treat things to do: When you’re bored or broke captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed amsterdam cocktail

letter from the editor

N3 0

In front of my folks’ home there used to be a gigantic villa that would easily fit in the American sitcom Dynasty: a huge garden, a private parking and a big fence to protect the property. Only the horses were missing. And Bobby Ewing. Nobody could understand why this majestic building was being used as an office. Then one day, the suits left and never came back. I was anxious to meet our new neighbours but no matter how long I waited, nobody seemed to be interested in buying the villa. It’s only when the garden had expanded into a forest, so abundantly the plants had grown, our new neigbours moved in: Squatters! From that moment it was party time. Every day I would see fire-eaters, dancers and pole walkers enjoying their new home. And although my sister and I were a little obsessed by the holes in their clothes, the dark stuff under their nails and the dreads in their hair, we didn’t hesitate when they invited us over. ‘Why do you steal houses as a profession?’ my sister asked. ‘We don’t,’ one of the squatters replied, ‘we save them from an infamous death.’ Rescuers or thieves, after five years of festivities, the larger community decided that the squatters had to go. A billion policemen gathered, ready to kick some ass. Eventually the place was sold for a symbolic €1 to a fancy couple that restored the building completely. A good thing, but honestly I preferred those quirky figures as neighbours.

Mathilde Hoekstra - Editor in Chief

spamsterdam

Sp@msterdam What you shared with us...

What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...

From: Ingeborg Roos Date: Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:49 PM Subject: So much fun to read! To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Dear Amsterdam Magazine Team,

From: Don Ivey Date: Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:10 PM Subject: Feedback on your Magazine To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com I was in Amsterdam last week and found a copy of your first issue in my hotel room (at the Amsterdam Marriot). Your magazine is terrific! I think that it’s a real winner- it has something interesting for both tourists and locals alike. I particularly enjoyed your on-the-street interviews with tourists, and reviews of local museums and hotels. You might consider also adding a feature each issue giving a review on a local café and/ or coffeeshop. At any rate, I really enjoyed your magazine and wish you the best of luck

Even though I consider myself a local, reading your September issue was a fun surprise. I’ve been working in a hotel in Amsterdam for only a couple months now, causing me to know the “bigger” tourist attractions by now. But still, the more hidden, more special places only reveal themselves to me one by one and only by my colleagues. The longer I work here and the more I see how much Amsterdam is appreciated by its tourists, the more I enjoy it myself. I will continue to read your magazine every time I see it, hoping for more fun surprises. Thank you! Sincerely, Ingeborg

with it in the future. Sincerely, Don Ivey, USA

win win win Next month we’ll read through all the spam and select one Email of the month

From: Jose Pousinho Henriques Date: Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 9:54 PM Subject: Poetry Amsterdam To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Like a great village in caress for ever Caress mixed of silence Silence

so get creative with your words, maybe even attach a picture of your stay in amsterdam, or bribe us with bitterballen...

Saudade from my childhood Amsterdam is. - José Pousinho Henriques

Email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com for the chance to win great prizes!

Amsterdam

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(After the visit during the last weekend for taking part on half-marathon)

spamsterdam

From: Manuela Date: Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 00:59 AM Subject: Hello there To: inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com

get social! When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways!

I’ve just landed in Bucharest, after spending almost a week in Amsterdam and seeing the city for the first time. I returned home with a backpack filled with a Van Gogh’s Skeleton with Cigarette wallet, a T-shirt, and your magazine, which I snatched from a coffeeshop, because I couldn’t stop reading it and we had to leave since one of my friends didn’t think of taking her ID with her. I thought I’d write this email and yell out a big “Congratulations” to you guys. I hope you don’t mind the fact that your magazine travelled all the way to Bucharest, but since I couldn’t stay any longer in

w in

This month we’re giving away: ➥➥

Free 2 x 2 tickets to CONTRABANDA Festival

➥➥

Free 4 x 2 Tickets to Hermitage Amsterdam

➥➥

Free 2 One-Day Passes to the Cannabis Cup Expo

➥➥

Free 2 x 2 tickets to the Artis Zoo

➥➥

Free 2 x 2 tickets to Amsterdam Burlesque Festival Opening Party

➥➥

Free 2 tickets to Club Escape

➥➥

And more!

Amsterdam, I thought I’d take a small part of it with me. Kudos on putting together such a fun, quirky, interesting and useful magazine. I must say it’s the first one I’ve ever read to spell it out nice and clear for those in need of tips and advice, with headlines such as “What to do in Amsterdam when you’re broke/bored” (although in my days of being there, I think I kind of forgot what bored meant) and not point to corny, clichéd attractions, fill half of the pages with excerpts from history books or spill out details nobody really cares about. Love the way the information is displayed, the story on Amsterdam street artists, the recommendations, the peeks inside those adorable Amsterdam houses and how the Amsterdam Magazine somehow manages to encompass the whole spirit of this serene, unconventional, intimate and yet tremendously fun place.

twitter.com

/amsterdammag

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/amsterdam-magazine

- Manuela

For this issue, the email of the month goes to Jose Pousinho Henriques. He will receive the photo book Bicycle Mania Holland, a fascinating book about the Dutch bicycle culture in Holland. Long-term Netherlands resident Shirley Agudo captured old, young, barely-walking and yes, even naked cyclists in the country. For more information, check out www. bicycle-mania.nl.

heads-up

Heads-up; from the city

by eva van wijngaarden

Amsterdam’s best square Though Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein and the Dam are the most entertaining squares in Amsterdam, they didn’t make the cut to be voted ‘best square in Amsterdam’. Out of more than 300 nominees, the humble Kastanje Square surprisingly won this title. This square in the east of the city, was voted highest with a 7.6 (out of 10). Other plazas that competed were the Dam, the oldest square in Amsterdam. The highest square in this city is at the top of the Nemo museum and the least-known square is the inner plaza of the Royal Palace. Located at the Dam, it is only accessible on set dates. Source: ‘Amsterdamse Pleinen’ by Bob Witman en Hilde de Haan

Unwelcome Bottoms His bosoms, bare bottoms and uncovered bodies weren’t welcome at the State Museum of Fine Arts in the Russian city of Kazan. Paul Kooiker’s photographs were too offensive. His 26 nude photos are part of VoTH, an exhibition with 15 other artists travelling through Russia. The photographer from Amsterdam doesn’t think his pictures are offensive at all. There were no problems at other Russian museums. Although the artist wasn’t at the opening of the exhibition in Kazan, he heard there were plenty of girls in mini-skirts and low cut t-shirts. Source: De Pers

Amsterdam: Nearly the best business city

photo: KPN

Phone booths make way The end of the phone booth era is drawing near. Outnumbered by mobile phones, the phone booth is hardly used anymore. Last year, Amsterdam had 400 cabins. This year, only about 60 remain. Telephone company KPN removed most of the unused ones but anonymous phone calls can still be made since not all booths will disappear. About fifty phone cabins will remain in the city centre. Amsterdam’s first phone cabin was placed at Valerius Square in 1931. Phone booth usage peaked in the seventies and eighties. However, after the introduction of the mobile phone, the number of phone booths has steadily decreased. Source: Parool

Amsterdam is a good city for international companies, but not the best business city according to the European Cities Monitor 2010. The metropolis is listed sixth out of 36 cities. London remains in first place, followed by Paris, Frankfurt, Brussels and Barcelona. Amsterdam offers good access to other markets and is praised for the many languages that are spoken along with good external transport links. It scored less on the recruitment of qualified staff than it did in previous years. Overall the city improved itself in the international business market and raised two ranks since the previous monitor in 2009. Source: europeancitiesmonitor.eu

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heads-up

We’re not leaving

photo: hierzijnwij.nu – Informatiepunt Noord/Zuidlijn

Drill in sight A large, red arrow in the centre of Amsterdam marks the drillings of Noortje 22 metres below the surface. Noortje is the name of an immense drill used for the construction of the North/South line. The red arrow with the text ‘Hier zijn wij nu!’ (We are here now!) indicates where the constructions are at the moment. The North/South line is a controversial project. This new subway section connects the north of Amsterdam with the south but has faced quite some problems. Houses subsided, the budget has been exceeded and the city has been ripped up now for years.

An anti-squatting law broadens the gap between squatters and the police. It declares squatting illegal since 1 October this year. That same day about 1000 squatters and sympathizers protested against the new law. The demonstration went peacefully for the most until the end. Police and squatters gave different testimonials. According to the police, a small group started using violence. Squatters testify the police enclosed them, using horses and cudgels to separate the mob. Two policemen and an unknown number of protesters got injured. Eleven demonstrators got arrested. Both squatting and the clearing of squatted houses continues in Amsterdam. Source: Parool

Olympic fire lights up It’s time to restore the old glory of the Olympic stadium in Amsterdam. For manager Hans Lubberding, it is more than a bit of grass and a historical building. He has great plans for the monument: relighting the fire in the marathon tower, new seats, an expansion of the Olympic museum and more. For Lubberding, it has to become a place like the Greeks had in mind; a place where culture, science, history, sports and education come together. The stadium was originally built for the Olympic games in 1928. Today it’s used for all sorts of activities such as last months’ Amsterdam Marathon.

Source: hierzijnwij.nu

Source: Parool

No helmet, no film Foeksia the Mini Witch has been rejected in the United States of America and Canada. The film about a teenage witch portrays Foeksia with a pipe-smoking teacher and a boy without a bicycle helmet. Both countries were enthusiastic about the movie, but the deal clashed because of these two points. They are unacceptable in family films in North America. Neither the pipe nor the absence of a bicycle helmet was a problem for other countries. So far Germany, Austria, Swiss, Indonesia, Russia and Spain will screen the film. Source: AT5

photo: Victor Arnolds

heads-up

A tree for president

The three ingredients for a successful Oktoberfest are: loads of meat, enough beer and blond, big chested ladies. It wasn’t necessary to travel all the way to Germany this year because Amsterdam had its first Oktoberfest last month. There were enough girls in Dirndls (traditional clothing from Austria) to serve the beer, bratwurst and sauerkraut. The first night on Thursday wasn’t as crowded as the Friday and Saturday, but all evenings were a great success said the organisation. Successful enough anyway for a second edition next year. Toll!

The original chestnut tree in front of Anne Frank’s shelter got lost in a storm, but isn’t entirely missing. It lives on in sprouts planted already several years ago. The Anne Frank foundation has received requests for a shoot from all over the world. One of those requests came from the White House in Washington. The famous chestnut will be planted in the garden at the end of 2012. The tree is legendary because Anne Frank could see the chestnut from her shelter and wrote about it in her diary.

Source: Parool

Bratwürst and beer

photo: Hans v.d. Heuvel

Mad maps Eric Fischer created 75 colourful maps of cities all over the World. Wondering whether locals or tourists took most of the pictures in a particular city, he started creating maps using geotagging. Geotagging is adding geographical information to web content. Using pictures from the photo websites Picasa and Flickr, he figured out where a picture was taken and if it was a tourist (red), local (blue) or unknown person (yellow) who took it. As for Amsterdam: it’s obvious what area’s tourists like to remember most. His ‘Geotaggers’ World Atlas’ maps are found at flickr.com. Source: flickr.com/photos/walkingsf/sets/72157624209158632/

photo: Ontwikkelingsbedrijf Amsterdam

Well built The Crystal Court in district Buitenveldert is the winner of the Amsterdam prize for newly-built houses. The unusual architecture, the luxurious atmosphere and the stunning location at the Gijsbrecht van Aemstel park were deciding factors. Inhabitants of Amsterdam nominated their favourite complex that was built between 2008 and 2009. After the initial selection, only ten buildings remained in the running for the prize. Twenty per cent of the 4,500 voters chose the Crystal Court as the winner. Source: nieuwbouwprijs.nl

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sport

What others said:

dutchgrub

Johannes van Dam “If this new restaurant fixes the few flaws, I would rate it even higher. The concept is gold.”

Iens.nl

Bistrot Neuf By: Dutchgrub, photo’s: sarah moore

Reliable restaurant reviews by foodies for foodies. This month we visited Bistrot Neuf, a French brasserie with an extensive wine list.

Upon entering, Bistrot Neuf immediately grabs you with its charming atmosphere. The densely furnished dining room with an open kitchen, the clinking of glasses and the endless racks of wine provide a perfect escape from the bustle of Haarlemmerstraat.

‘Bistrot Neuf has established itself as one of Amsterdam’s culinary hotspots’ Refill please!

Bistrot Neuf is partnered with Chabrol, the wine specialist next door, and offers close to 100 different bottles. Along with the variety, they provide specific wine suggestions for each dish on the menu. Eventually, we decided on a bottle of the multi-faceted Côtes du Rhône, and our glasses required frequent refreshment throughout the evening.

Mmm, mousse au chocolat

In true French brasserie spirit, Bistrot Neuf offers a fixed-price menu which is of good value at €29 for a three-course dinner. The classic French menu offers starters such as onion soup and Bourgogne-style snails, while the main courses include French classics such as Boeuf Bourguignon and Cassoulet. To finish off, traditional favourites Crème Brûlée and Mousse au Chocolat are offered up for dessert.The homemade fresh pâté with cornichons was a particular highlight and we also found ourselves slurping back every last morsel of the mussels. While the duck was cooked just right, it lacked flavour and was bland in comparison to the other dishes.

The Outcome Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior P/Q* ratio

Final Score: Round-Up Cuisine: French Neighbourhood: Jordaan Atmosphere: Busy Price pp: €35 to €55

Details Open daily from 12pm to 11pm Public Transport: Tram 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: The Restaurant: yes. Restrooms: no *Price/Quality ratio

Bistrot Neuf Haarlemmerstraat 9 +31 (0)(0)20 4003210 www.bistrotneuf.nl [map 125-f2]

The other downside was that the service was a little inconsistent. While the waiters were friendly, they were somewhat hurried and seemed a little flustered trying to keep everything running smoothly.

Go?

Nevertheless, Bistrot Neuf has established itself as one of Amsterdam’s culinary hotspots in less than six months. If fine wine and a lively, warm atmosphere are what you’re looking for, you shan’t be disappointed.

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7.8

Check out www.dutchgrub.com for more reviews.

urban jungle

Urban jungle An Artis Update

In every issue we take an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at Artis Royal Zoo. This month: Ostriches venture out! By: Charlotte Vermeulen Photography: Ronald van Weeren

ber 2010

cto am, 12 O d r e t s m A

In perfect harmony the two female ostriches peck at some leaves that have just fallen to the ground. They walk side by side with their huge fluffy wings flapping up and down. In this golden autumn light, one is taking a dust bath. All of a sudden a magpie appears, and both ostriches quickly run in the opposite direction.

kilometers per hour! On top of that their eggs are pretty big too: just imagine breeding 40 eggs of 15 x 12 cm that weigh 1.3kg each!

But they’re not just beefcakes, these male ostriches. Together with their favourite partner they will sit the on eggs of the whole flock (sometimes 40 at a time!). With a maximum height of 2.5m, the ostrich is the biggest bird alive, and also the fastest: it can reach a speed of 65

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Artis Royal Zoo’s full name is Natura Artis Magistra. This means: ‘nature is the teacher of both art and science’. Artis is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands. It was founded in 1838. Artis Royal Zoo has many beautiful 19th century buildings, such as the Aquarium.

Beefcakes Having just arrived from Berlin zoo, they’re the new kids on the block. It took quite a while before they dared to show their faces. These youngsters are just 11 months old. But within a year (when they’re fully grown adults) the black and white male ostriches would fight for their affection. Well, theirs and that of up to seven other females! With their tall powerful legs, these males surely kick some ass!

Did you know that...

the ostrich is the biggest and fastest bird alive Neighbours Until they’ve settled into their new Amsterdam home, the females are staying in the former giraffe house together with the zebras, the guinea fowl and the white-tailed gnu. The latter, also known as wildebeest, are always digging and rolling around the enclosure, leaving a special odour behind to mark their territory. But the magpie doesn’t mind. As long as he can use their fur, the wildebeest are an excellent source of nesting material!

Artis Royal Zoo is not only a zoo but also a park. Here you’ll find the oldest tree in Amsterdam: a 275-year-old-oak. At the Artis Aquarium you can see the fish species that live in Amsterdam’s canals. There are over 700 different animal species living in Artis Royal Zoo. Artis Royal Zoo is right in the city centre.

Artis Royal Zoo Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 0900 2784796 (€0.25 per minute) www.artis.nl [map I6]

word on the street

prohibited?

Word Word on on the the street street By Marit Smit

Amsterdam

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Amsterdam is known for its beauty, tolerance and diverse array of nationalities. But did you know that some politicians have plans to prohibit headscarves in this city? Amsterdam Magazine asks a group of tourist to tell us what they think.

word on the street

Sam (12)

From: Boston, USA Profession: Student (high school) Spotted: At Museumplein with his parents

Is Amsterdam what you expected it would be?

‘It’s such a cool city. The best thing is that everyone rides bikes, even though one of them nearly hit me! I love the canals and I also visited the Heineken Brewery. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to taste any beer because of my age.’

What’s the biggest difference between your hometown and Amsterdam?

‘There are many skyscrapers in Boston. Here, most buildings are made of brick and have a maximum of five floors. I love it though, it gives Amsterdam character.’

How would you feel if headscarves became prohibited here? Would it change your opinion of the city?

‘It would definitely change my mind about the city. It seems like a bad rule to me. I think people should wear what they like. Why would anyone actually agree with such a rule?’

word on the street

danielle (21)

From: San Antonio, Texas, USA Profession: Carpenter & model Spotted: In front of a houseboat at Noordermarkt

Is Amsterdam what you expected it would be?

‘It’s more stylish than I thought. My favourite sight isn’t any of the museums or buildings, it’s the hot mothers with high heels on their bikes! I like the houseboats too. But why are the closing times so early here? I’m a night person. I want to have dinner at five in the morning!’

What’s the biggest difference between Amsterdam and your hometown?

‘I used to live in New York where there was chaos everywhere – quite the opposite to Amsterdam! Where I come from, people are more interfering and there is a heavy police presence. I’ve hardly seen a policeman here and life seems more relaxed.

How would you feel if headscarves became prohibited here? Would it change your opinions of the city? ‘I think it would be awful. It’s an invasion of both culture and religion. Headscarves are stylish in my opinion. I think they are beautiful, mysterious and lovely. It takes strength to show your culture instead of your chest. This city is known throughout the world as being very liberal, but now it seems more conservative than I initially thought.’

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word on the street

MUSA (44)

From: Yola, Nigeria Profession: Student Spotted: Sitting in Dam Square

Is Amsterdam what you expected it would be?

‘I heard Amsterdam had the nicest airport in the world, so I had to come and see it for myself. Now I totally agree! I also like the fact that there are so many people from different cultures and countries in this city. It makes me forget about my daily life at home. It’s relaxing.’

What’s the biggest difference between Amsterdam and your hometown?

‘Everything is different! I don’t see any similarities. In Nigeria, the weather is too hot and dry so I like the rain here. The only thing I don’t like is the food. It’s so different from what I’m used to and I can hardly eat it.

How would you feel if headscarves became prohibited here? Would it change your opinions of the city? ‘I accept that every country has its own policies. Personally, I believe Muslim women should be allowed to wear headscarves because it’s their right. Although the actions of the Dutch government still wouldn’t change my opinions about Amsterdam.’

FEATURED

Squatters

in Amsterdam Idealists or profiteers?

On 1 October, the Dutch squatting ban came into effect. Fortyseven years after the first squatters appeared in Amsterdam, they now risk a year in prison. If violence is used, the punishment may even add up to two years and eight months. What is the history of squatting in Amsterdam? What do squatters want? And why was this law introduced? An exclusive insight. > By Mike Peek

Amsterdam

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FEATURED

After the end of World War II, Amsterdam suffered a major shortage of housing. As the city faced a radical modernisation process, several districts were to be demolished and rebuilt. Pending their demolition, however, houses sometimes remained vacant for years. Squatters, mostly students in those days, forced their entry and started living in these houses. They were officially declared uninhabitable, but otherwise homeless youngsters welcomed the roof over their heads.

Save the city Squatting always had an idealistic undertone as well. Many people were not happy about the ‘new’ Amsterdam that was to be built on the ashes of the war. Major roads were planned as well as a subway; if that meant tearing down some houses and monuments, too bad. Amsterdam had to join the modern era if it wanted to attract businesses and create jobs. Squatters had a different opinion and tried to save the old city. The municipality fought squatting from the very beginning, but suffered an important loss in 1971 when the High Council decided that occupying a building was allowed, as long as that particular building was not in use by its owner. Encouraged by this verdict, squatters happily went at it, especially in the Nieuwmarkt district. A lot of pre-war housing there awaited its demolition, to make way for the underground.

Radicalisation A decisive year for squatting in Amsterdam was 1980. The movement’s radicalisation started at the Keizersgracht. ‘De Groote Keyser’, an investment property, was squatted in 1978. In late 1979, a judge decided it was to be vacated, but the squatters made no plans to leave. They effectively turned their home into above: Evidence of squatting has been wiped out (‘De Groote Keyser’ today)

a fortress, barricading the entrances and windows with bed bases and trash. If the authorities tried to vacate the building, they threatened there would be a blood bath. Mayor Wim Polak caved and De Groote Keyser was left alone. This of course created an immense problem. Other squatters saw weakness in how the city handled the situation. Anarchy loomed. The government acknowledged the danger and decided to vacate any newly squatted property as soon as possible. That way, squatters wouldn’t have time to organise and barricade

Photo: Jos van Zetten

Amsterdam

the building as they did at the Keizersgracht.

magazine

FEATURED

Vondelstraat 72 So it happened that, on the 24 February, the police vacated Vondelstraat 72 within 24 hours after the squatters took up residence. Five days later, squatters held a ‘procession’, which proved to be nothing more than a cover-up. While the authorities were busy watching the parade, Vondelstraat 72 was swiftly re-squatted. When the police arrived, it was too late. They had to pull out after a brief, but bloody, fight with the squatters who subsequently barricaded the whole Vondelstraat. What was the mayor to do? Some civilians, and fellow politicians, already thought of him as someone who let ‘scum’ walk all over him. Still, Polak tried to reach a peaceful outcome. But after a whole weekend of

Photo: ELsa PHOTO:Nederlands Instituut voor Beeld en Geluid / NOS

negotiating, his patience finally ran out. Monday, 3 March 1980, marked the first time tanks rolled through the streets of Amsterdam since World War II. Accompanied by military police they swept the Vondelstraat clean. There was some resistance, but the squatters didn’t stand a chance against the obvious power display by the authorities.

“No housing, no coronation” The atmosphere in Amsterdam remained tense as Queen’s Day, on 30 April, drew nearer. That year Beatrix would succeed her mother Juliana as the new Queen of the Netherlands. The most radical wing of the squatter movement threatened to disturb the peace. And they did. An army of 5000 police could not prevent the utter chaos in Amsterdam that day, although the coronation and other festivities were not actually hindered. The squatters came very close though. Two cordons were created to prevent anyone from getting close to the Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square, where the coronation was held. A massive fight between police poster by frank de jong / Collectie IISG

and squatters took place at the Blauwbrug (a bridge next to Waterlooplein), the outer cordon’s weakest link. The police lost the battle and had to abandon the bridge. The riots continued between the outer cordon and the inner cordon around Dam Square. Inside the Nieuwe Kerk, those attending the ceremony could hear the squatters chant: ‘Geen woning, geen kroning!’(‘No housing, no coronation!’) Among them was Wim Polak, who must have been pretty nervous that afternoon.

FEATURED

A movement in decay Before 1980, most people felt a certain degree of sympathy towards squatters. Their cause was just and the matter they raised – a shortage of housing – affected everyone. But after the violent outbursts, the mood started to change. A lot of civilians grew afraid of squatters, whose goals seemed to shift. They went from a prohousing movement to an anti-establishment movement that opposed consumerism. They no longer wanted to participate in society, but dissociate themselves from it.

Squatting has also become a counterculture for people who feel at a

Public support also declined because the

loss in civil society. In a lot of squats, poetry

most pressing housing problems in the city

nights, political discussions, concerts and

were more or less resolved at that time. But

expositions are held. These activities are

squatters kept occupying large business

usually open to anyone who is interested.

properties and houses in the centre of town,

Some also develop initiatives to assist sick

and now fell under the suspicion of just

or elderly people in their neighbourhood

wanting a big house in a good location at

who can’t afford or are excluded from

zero cost. Empty flats on the outskirts of the

regular care. Most people therefore don’t

city were very rarely squatted.

have a problem with these ‘good’ squatters.

Nowadays, even ‘good girls’ from the countryside turn to squatting: there is no other way The squatters themselves were divided by

Two very recognisable squats can be found

the violence that was used. Some thought

on the Spuistraat. S199 (the ‘snake building’)

it justified, while others opposed it. The

was squatted in 1983. Over the years, it has

movement started to fall apart by the mid-

served as a place where creative people

eighties.

live and work. The inhabitants have always

Counterculture

welcomed debating with the city about legalising their activities. In 2008 De Key

It didn’t disappear though. Walking around

(a housing association) bought S199. All

Amsterdam today, squatting is still very

options concerning the future of the building

visible. All around the city, squatted offices

and its residents are currently investigated.

and houses (often above shops) can easily

Across the street, Vrankrijk is having

be made out, because they are marked

more problems. It was squatted in 1982

by the movement’s flag. Squatters argue

to prevent its demolition. Ten years later

that their ‘work’ is not solely a matter of

the squatters bought the place. A concert

acquiring a place to live for themselves.

hall and squatting café were erected, but

They encourage the city and private real-

in recent years Vrankrijk was often closed,

estate owners to use every possible space in

re-opened and closed again because of the

a city that is once again plagued by a severe

mistreatment of guests and trouble with its

lack of (affordable) housing.

alcohol licence.

Amsterdam

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above: S199 - ‘snake building’ below: Vrankrijk

FEATURED

Photo: Thomas schlijper

Squatting ban

keep their properties occupied and prevent

instead of speculating with it. The ban also

The then Minister of Justice, Dries van

squatting. The most popular one is ‘anti-

threatens to destroy the aforementioned

Agt, started working on an anti-squatting

squatting’, which means allowing people to

counterculture in a city that has already

law as early as 1973, just two years after

temporarily live in your house at a relatively

lost much of its famous edge.

squatting was legalised. Because of the

low cost. Squatters and an increasing

leftist government of that time, which

number of politicians oppose this ‘trick’,

Municipality seems confused by the new

sympathised with the squatters, it didn’t

because residents are not given any rights

law. At first, they claimed that nothing

pass. A watered-down version of the law

(they only get a two weeks’ notice when

much would change for squatters and they

was approved in the mid-eighties, but did

the owner wants them out) and prices are

would only be evicted when causing trouble.

not really change all that much.

getting steeper.

Later, police commissioner Leen Schaap

The ban on squatting that was green lit last

New era, same problem

year obviously did. It was proposed by the

There was (and still is) much opposition

centre-right political parties VVD, CDA en

against the law. Leftwing parties don’t

Christenunie. They believe that squatting

see the need for banning squatting

This ambiguity provokes unrest among

has very little to do with actual shortage

altogether, because the previous law

squatters. In the week leading up to 1

of housing and more with taking justice

sufficiently prevented excesses. One of

October, they gathered at Dam Square,

into your own hands. They also claim that

the preconditions of that law was that a

protesting against the ban. The usual

squatters have started to use more violence

building had to be vacant for at least a year

suspects were all there, but they were not

again and often trash the houses they live

before squatting in it was allowed.

alone. Nowadays, even ‘good girls’ from the

in. Last but not least, these parties believe

More importantly, a lot of people think

countryside and other unlikely characters

that no one has the right to use someone

squatting is still socially relevant.

turn to squatting. There is no other way

else’s property.

Decent housing in Amsterdam is rare

for them to acquire a home. Those new

and extremely expensive these days

faces show that, no matter what you think

In the past years and decades, real-estate

and squatters force the city and private

of squatting itself, the housing shortage in

owners have come up with measures to

real-estate owners to use their property

Amsterdam is more pressing than ever. N

said he couldn’t wait to start vacating squats. What is going to happen remains unclear.

knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives

Students living in old shipping coNtainers? It’s Real. Emma Helsloot shows us around her container home. By marieke verhoeven | Photography: Wieke Braat

Twenty-year-old Emma Helsloot has to admit: this could well be the strangest place she will ever live. It’s not just the fact that she’s living in a former shipping container, it’s also the location. With the Hell’s Angels on one side and the Bijlmer Bajes prison on the other, it’s the last place you would expect to find a student complex. But you do. In 2006 the Dutch company Tempohousing finished building the biggest container village in the world. Modified shipping containers from China were placed in a fallow area near Amstel Station to house 1000 students. Due to sky-high rents and housing shortages across the city, the containers are an attractive alternative for students who want to live on their own but have little to spend. The amenities are sometimes even better than many places in the city including 30m2 of living space, a private bathroom and kitchen, plus a terrace or balcony. >

Amsterdam

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knock knock

One step back Art History student Emma moved into her container home at the beginning of 2010. ‘Honestly, I can’t say I was thrilled when I got this place. I was living in a great apartment in Amsterdam West, but unfortunately I had to move out. Through a waiting list at a student housing company, I got the opportunity to live here. It was a step back, but I actually enjoy it now.’ A shipping container has its benefits, Emma reckons. ‘It’s quite spacious for a student, and the €300 rent is not too high. I also really like having my own kitchen and bathroom instead of having to share it with flatmates.’ Living next to the notorious prison doesn’t bother her either. ‘The only thing I had to get used to was the screaming at night,’ she says. ‘There’s a place down the street where family or friends of prisoners stand and shout at their loved ones on the inside. Some shout back and then a ‘conversation’ starts. I still find that kind of creepy.’

HonestlY I Can’t Say I was thrilled when I got this place

It’s getting hot in here Even though the container consists of one big room, Emma has enough space to separate her ‘bedroom’ from the study and eating area. She can have up to four people for dinner without any problems. ‘I once had ten friends over and that was kind of cramped. We had to eat on the bed to make it fit!’ The complex also includes a supermarket, and every housing block has its own shared garden. ‘In summer, barbecues are organised and everyone sits outside.’ That has its downsides as well, as Emma knows from experience. ‘My neighbours have a different taste in music, so in the summer we all turn our music up as high as possible. That can cause some friction.’ Contrary to what people might expect, the containers are not noisy at all, and they’re also well isolated. ‘I’m lucky because I live on the ground floor,’ says Emma. ‘It’s cool in summer and warm in winter. The containers on the top floor get quite hot in summer.’ In spite of the many advantages, Emma is still looking around for a new place. ‘For the time being, this will do. It’s a fun experience. But I would like to move back to the city, to live in an actual house in a friendlier neighbourhood.’

Concept and production Tommy Hagen and Cath Conroy

Top Aida Saracini Panties Alexander Wang

Skirt Elsien Gringhuis

Pants Lotte van Keulen

knock knock

Blouse Maison Martin Margiela

Bodysuit Maison Martin Margiela Stockings Wolford

knock knock

Photographer: Catherine Conroy Stylist: Amber Myhre Bosch @ Angelique Hoorn Agency Hair: Tommy Hagen @ House of Orange for tommyztoko.nl Makeup: Ingeborg van der Does @ View Agency Model: Marielle Rijpma @ Ulla Models Digital Operator: Frederick Jensen

Blouse Aida Saracini

meet the dutch

Youp van ‘t Hek The Controversial Comedian

Legendary cabaret artist Youp van ‘t Hek (56) observes how Amsterdam is slowly turning into an amusement park. His advice? Start walking! By Eva van Wijngaarden

D D

Dic

is career started 21 years ago when he gained international fame by calling those that drink Buckler beer a ‘Buckler dick’. The result? Not a single person in the Netherlands dared to drink Buckler anymore. Four years later it was taken out of production. The brewery claimed it was due to competition from another non-alcoholic beer, but the Dutch knew better than that. And a legend (who is now working on his 30th show) was born.

Shame on you, city of Amsterdam!

This man, who night after night walks around the stage with both hands in his pockets, raging about everything that bothers him, is totally devoted to Amsterdam. ‘After 35 years here, I still love the place,’ he admits. ‘I feel alive in it because I meet locals, students, and foreigners from all over the world. People that feel like having a laugh together; people that put things in perspective.’ He did just that when he decided to barf on the phenomenon of all the personality magazines – international (think Oprah magazine) as well as nationals (think Linda.) – that stars published so eagerly.

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k Dic

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As a counter-offensive he published his own ego-glossy: Youp, which he presented with a somewhat cynical announcement: ‘The first copy is for the person I love most.’ That person was supposed to be in a large box on stage. But when opened the box a mirror came out and he kissed his own image. A new way of approaching narcissism: ‘I don’t take myself too seriously,’ he says. But when it

‘Try cruising the city at five in the morning’ comes to Amsterdam, he’s deadly serious. According to Youp the city has lost its spirit. ‘Amsterdam should be ashamed of itself. Not one decent museum has opened for ten years now. Tourists have to come see the Nachtwacht (ed., Rembrandt’s painting Nightwatch) in a broom closet!’

What’s behind it?

Of course this man, with his trademark round black glasses and braces, is wellknown for his sturdy opinions and ironic, straightforward and provocative gags. Clearly he is exaggerating. With fifty museums, there are plenty places in Amsterdam worth visiting. What about the Hermitage and the Nieuwe Kerk (ed., New Church at Dam Square)? But he won’t admit it. ‘If you really want to discover Amsterdam, start walking. Don’t stand in line at the Anne Frank Museum. It’s much more interesting to take the effort to see what’s behind that building and to see what’s in the streets right next to it.’ Being a tourist in Amsterdam, Youp would do it all differently. He wouldn’t take a canal boat. ‘They’re way too slow.’ No, he would rent a boat himself. ‘At daytime it’s a boating jam. But try cruising the city at five o’clock in the morning and you’ll find Amsterdam at its best. You see the baker working, people trotting around: the city is coming alive.’ And then, just as swiftly as he appeared, with a hand kiss, a large smile and a bow he says goodbye. As if it’s the end of a good performance.

Photography: Bob Bronshoff

meet the dutch

dutch treat

Dutch Treat

Tompouce You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried herring (raw, with onions) or salty liquorice. But what about the tompouce? TEXT BY Linda Leonard

instructions

o birthday party or Sunday morning at your grandma’s would be complete without this rectangular cake topped with a pink glaze (turned orange during national festivities like Queen’s Day and football matches) called tompouce or tompoes.

ÌÌ

This treat is named after Lilliputian General Tom Thumb, a man who travelled through Europe with an American circus in around 1845. After that, a Dutch Lilliputian began performing under the name Admiral Tom Pouce. Both Tom Thumb and the French Tom Pouce refer to the Brothers Grimm fairytale.

ÌÌ

In 2002, 145,145 gallons of pastry cream and 475 gallons of glaze created a tompouce nearly 1.3 kilometres long! Though the tompouce is clearly a huge hit in the Netherlands, you´ll hardly see anyone consuming it on the streets. This is due to the messiness of the treat. You really need to sit down and concentrate to be able to enjoy it. Up for the challenge? Follow the Dutch etiquette on how to eat a tompouce:

ÌÌ

ÌÌ ÌÌ

s Try thi ! at home

How to eat a tompouce: Push the top downwards with your fork.The cream will then be pushed out for you to eat. Lay the top aside and eat the bottom layer with the cream. Finally, eat the pink top layer with your fork; some say this is the best part! For the rebels: ditch the fork and eat it from your hand. Take one bite and surrender to the overwhelming amount of delicious cream oozing out and smearing against your pretty face.

ingredients 2 tbsp custard powder 85g caster sugar 2 egg yolks 4 slices frozen butter puff pastry 265ml whole milk

Glaze: 120g icing sugar 1 egg white A few drops of lemon juice Pink food colouring

ÌÌ

ÌÌ ÌÌ ÌÌ

Preheat the oven (390F/200C) Dough Spread the puff pastry slices and let them thaw. Prick the dough with a fork to create small holes. Bake it for 15-20 minutes in the oven. After cooling, cut the puff pastry into 8 pieces. Filling: Mix the egg yolks with the caster sugar. Beat the yolks and sugar with a whisk until smooth. Gradually beat the custard powder into the mixture. While beating, add a small drop of milk. Gently heat the mixture over a low heat, stirring constantly until it becomes a thick cream. This should take about 5 minutes. Cool down the cream in the fridge for an hour. Once cooled, put the cream into a piping bag, and liberally cover 4 of the pastry slices with the cream. Place the remaining 4 slices on top of the cream, creating a ‘sandwich’. Sift the icing sugar and add the egg white and lemon juice. Beat or stir for at least 3 minutes. Add some drops of food colouring till the glaze becomes pink. Smooth the glaze on top of the pastry tops to finish off. Eet smakelijk!

Want to skip the baking just buy & eat one? HEMA sells the best tompouces! Kalvertoren, Kalverstraat 212

getting around

Amsterdam

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getting around

Are you fed up with picture-perfect villages claiming to embody the true spirit of the Netherlands, while actually glorifying its past? Try IJmuiden instead.

caught between industry & Leisure

ijmu ide n By: Mike Peek

f you’re travelling by Fast Flying Ferry, the journey is part of the fun. This hydrofoil gets you from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station to IJmuiden in a mere 25 minutes. While 65 kilometres per hour may not sound quite hypersonic, it sure feels that way to a landlubber like myself. The occasional airtime sends my face into a grimace, much to the amusement of the toddler next to me.

Surfer’s paradise IJmuiden has the widest beach in the country and is highly popular among surfers, kiters and other water sports enthusiasts. On this gorgeous autumn day, they come in great numbers to defy the waves and enjoy the sunshine. But they’re not alone. From 1 October through the end of March, dogs are once again allowed on the beach. After a long summer of running around on boring

lawns, they are clearly grateful for the enormous space and the opportunity to take a dip in the North Sea. The nearby Seaport Marina is an equally idyllic scene with boat owners scrubbing their decks, taking off for a leisurely tour along the coast or just hanging around, making small talk with one another. On the horizon, however, the city shows its other face. Thick plumes of smoke escape the smokestacks of the local blast furnaces. To get closer to the stacks and IJmuiden’s other harbours, I can either catch a bus or walk through an industrial no man’s land.

Shooter video game I opt for the latter and am immediately pleased with my decision. This being a Saturday, it is extremely quiet in the area. A worn-out ship seems... >

getting around

> to rise from the rough grassland, giving the scene a surrealist flavour. It looks like something out of a first-person shooter video game. Any moment now, I fear, bad guys may appear on the ship with the intention of killing me and I don’t have a place to hide. Or a gun. Luckily, my imagination runs wilder than reality. I make it to the small lighthouse alive. It stands in the middle of an awkward street with both old houses and new offices. I sneak behind them to enjoy a much closer look at the blast furnaces and ‘Forteiland’. This fort was built at the mouth of the North Sea Canal to protect Amsterdam from enemies who wanted to invade the city. Nowadays, it is used for parties and company outings. Every first Sunday of the month, from April through November, you can get a guided tour explaining the fort’s history and structures.

Fresh fish As I make my way back to civilization, the fishing harbour looms closer. It’s the biggest in the Netherlands and the restaurants across the street are supplied directly by the fishermen. Even if you’re usually not that keen on seafood, the freshness of the products here might tempt you to try some. A little further down the road lies Kop van de haven (‘top of the harbour’), where ships of all sizes await their passengers. Cruise ships depart for Newcastle, but there are smaller boats as well, offering one-hour cruises along the harbours (from April through October), and a water taxi (ditto) to Velsen-Noord. The beach there, Strand Noordpier, is very popular with more professional surfers and kiters

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because of the strong wind and currents. Kop van de haven is also where Dutch princess Juliana fled the country when it was occupied by Germany in 1940.

Controlling water levels Perhaps Ijmuiden’s greatest claim to fame is its locks – a Dutch invention. They were Europe’s largest for a long time and continue to protect Amsterdam from flooding by controlling the North Sea Canal’s water levels. Roads are built over the locks, which means you can actually see them up close. I am about to cross the first one when a traffic light turns red. The road is moved to the side and the lock slowly opens to let a sailboat pass. Its captain casually waves at the attendant above him, who nods in return. Behind them, smoke keeps pouring from the blast furnaces. This scene, I realise, captures the very essence of IJmuiden; forever caught between leisure and industry.

]

I don’t have a place to hide. Or a gun.

getting around

How to get there The Fast Flying Ferry to IJmuiden departs from the back of Centraal Station. A return ticket will set you back â&#x201A;Ź8. More information and timetables: www. fff.nl. In IJmuiden take bus 82 (www. connexxion.nl or call 0900 2666399) to get to the beach and harbours. For more about IJmuiden, and a handy map, visit www.ijmuidenaanzee.nl.

import / export

Progressive Guru meets art hero By Daniela van der Linde and Mathilde Hoekstra

very issue we interview people that are successful in their work, in the Netherlands or abroad. Favela painter Dre Urhahn (export) meets progressive super-DJ John Digweed (import). >

tools of the trade

import / export

Describe the man John Digweed in 5 wo rds Joking, Fair, Thoughtful, Passionate, Serious.

Describe the product John Digweed in 5 words Consistent, Driven, Committed, Focused, Funny.

You are a DJ, producer and you have your own label. Why did you feel the urge to become a Kissradio jockey and an actor on top of that (‘the new De Niro?’)? Well, my radio show Transitions has grown from starting on London’s Kiss 100 station to being broadcast in over 30 countries and currently reaches a weekly audience of over 12 million. As for the film Groove: that was great fun to work on. The De Niro quote from Wiki is a great example of ‘don’t believe everything you read on there’, I think Danny Howells might have something to do with that.

Import 3

John Digweed John ‘God of Progressive House Music’ Digweed (43) 8 www.johndigweed.com

You are a key DJ in the sound of progressive house music. Now (after 26 compilations, 13 singles and a #1 vote in DJ Mag’s annual Top 100) what’s left to prove? At the start of my career I was at the forefront of the progressive sound. But over the last few years I have been more influenced by House,Tech/House and Techno sounds since the progressive sounds that people make today is rubbish. I really want to move musically with the times and keep getting inspired by new music. This is the only way to stay at the forefront and to be able to play the best music which I obviously try to do. I have recently released a new compilation, Bedrock 12, which I compiled to celebrate the 12 years existence of my label. I also have a new release with Nick Muir called Bilder which comes out in November.

What about doing something for a good cause?

My hero is my father even though he died before I became successful. He instilled in me a lot of good values that have helped me throughout my career. He also taught me the benefits of hard work and treating people fairly.

What’s your favourite book? The Traveller by John Twelve Hawks is a fantastic book that shows how the world in the current climate is really becoming more and more like Big Brother. Not that I am feeling observed though. Except when I’m DJ’ing maybe.

Which movies do you find inspiring? I love Apocalypse Now and Blade Runner. Both of these films have stood the test of time and still blow me away every time I see them. They influenced me by proving that when you work on something you have to try and deliver something that people will still enjoy in years to come.

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The Macmillian Cancer charity is one that is close to my heart since I have lost friends and family to the disease. I did a big fund raiser in February which went really well and we raised a good amount for the charity.

What do you think of Favela Painting? Painting the buildings of a Brazilian favela seems like a great way to bring some colour in the area. If I was with locals who could show me around safely, I’d love to pay a visit.

Do you think colour is important to people that live their lifes in fear? I don’t think these people spend their lives in fear. They just get on with it. Probably they are very streetwise and know how to look after themselves. So yes, why not add a little colour?

Is your music to the party people of Amsterdam what Favela Painting is for the slumdogs of Rio? Who knows? I love Amsterdam. It’s a great city that really knows how to party with a very relaxed atmosphere. When I’m working here, I try to focus on my own sound and I try to stand out, be original. Doing so I’m pretty consistent: trying to give 100% every time. n

photo by Dan reid

Who are your heroes?

import / export

Describe Favela Painting in five words Transforming slums into monumental masterpieces.

What do you think of John Digweed? I honestly didn’t know who he was. But I listened to his music on Myspace and it sounds very cool.

How did you come up with the idea of Favela Painting? Five years ago, I went to Brazil with Dutch illustrator Jeroen Koolhaas to shoot a documentary for MTV about hip hop in the slums of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. There, we came up with the idea for Favela Painting: engaging local youths in painting giant murals and transforming the Brazilian slums (favelas) into a beautiful work of art. And with literally transforming the slums, we wanted to alter the negative connotation they carry with them. The people from the favelas are proud of their neighbourhood, but outsiders see them as an eyesore.

What does it mean for the kids that participate in the project?

export 4

Dre Urhahn

Dre ‘Favela Painting’ Urhahn (36) 8 www.favelapainting.com

Who are your heroes? Ren & Stimpy. To me they’re an endless source of inspiration. They inspired me and Jeroen to come up with our own philosophy: stupid-intelligence, or how to solve obvious problems with not-soobvious solutions. Plus they hang out with Powdered Toastman.

photo by Douglas Engle for australfoto.com

What is your favourite book? The last couple of years I’ve read a lot of Murakami, but it’s hard to say which of his books are my favourite. I think I’d say Kafka on the Shore. The way Murakami bends a perfectly normal situation into total madness in just a split second is very comforting.

Which movies do you find inspiring? Takeshi Kitano’s Sonatine, because of its tantalising pace. Also Blade Runner ‘cause Syd Mead’s take on the future is even better than the future itself. And there are German midget thugs in the film.

Who is Dre Urhahn in five words? One Two Dre Four Five.

Jeroen and I provide the local youths with workshops, which prove to be very valuable for their future. Some of them have gotten jobs as professional painters after Favela Painting. It also boosts their self-esteem. The kids from the project say: ‘People see us as artists now,’ which means a lot to them.

How do you get the favelados to ‘import’ Favela Painting, to allow you to paint their houses? We just ask them. People aren’t afraid of change, like us Dutchmen. Furthermore, we are not a political project; we don’t have an agenda unlike most NGOs in the favelas. We simply explain to them we want to paint their houses for free.

Is Favela Painting widely known? We’ve been in every major newspaper in the Netherlands and did a couple of well-known talk shows. We’ve done everything from CNN and Fox News to Al Jazeera. And there is a lot of attention from the Brazilian media as well. So I’d say a lot of people from all over the world know about our project.

What does the future hold for Favela Painting? Up until now, we’ve finished three projects; two in Vila Cruzeiro and one in Santa Marta. Now we’re back in the Netherlands looking for sponsors and donations to fund our next project.

You’ve worked on a project in Vila Cruzeiro, which is considered one of the toughest favelas in Rio. Have you ever had any problems with your personal safety? Of course there are shootouts once in a while. Especially when the police enter the favelas, everybody just starts shooting. But we’re used to it now, we just stop painting and go to a shelter. Also, we were almost mugged once. We noticed a guy staring at our camera and we knew he wanted to rob us. So we quickly had to come up with something. We asked him to take a picture of us and gave him the camera. He was so perplexed by our request, he just took the picture and handed back the camera. That proves that by flipping reality, doing something unexpected, you can change the outcome of a situation. And that’s exactly what we’re aiming for with Favela Painting. n

pimp my bike

BY: Wieke Braat

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! Kim Sas, 30

‘I want a bike that stands out in the crowd’ Cycling to work

1,496,000 people cycle to work in the Netherlands. Our bicycle trips average 2.8 kilometres. In 2009 the Dutch population cycled 13.5 billion kilometres in total. If everyone living less than 8 kilometres from their work commuted by bike rather than by car, we would reduce our CO2 emissions by 4480 tonnes per year.

Kim Sas is an English teacher. To set an example, her school encourages all teachers to cycle to work. Thus she has become the proud owner of a brand new bike, ready to transport exam papers and notebooks in a trendy wooden crate. One problem: it’s exactly the same as her colleagues’ bikes, which makes it quite hard for Kim to recognise it after a hard day’s work. She’s a textbook pimping candidate for Amsterdam Magazine. We secretly borrowed her bike for a day and brought it back to her on her birthday. Tight schedule!

Amsterdam

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Keeping the benefits of cycling in mind – think health, environmental and traffic jam issues, a few progressive companies introduced the lease bike, instead of the common lease car. The government incentivises this sporty initiative by offering tax benefits to the cycling employee. In Dutch we like to call our bicycle a steel horse. This reveals the way in which Dutchies see their favourite vehicle: as something useful, practical and functional. Amsterdam is the 2nd biggest ‘cycling city’ in the world: 41 per cent of our journeys are made by bike, compared to 28 per cent in a car.

Sander Pappot

- The Pimping Artist & Boyfriend

pimp my bike

this bike is starting to look like a robot factory

pimp my bike

‘Happy birthday to my baby!’

Paint Store

Kim’s boyfriend Sander Pappot meets me in his studio in the far east of Amsterdam. The big garage reminds me of a well-organised paint store. The bike is parked in front of a large shelf unit filled with at least 500 aerosols arranged by colour and type. The aerosols reveal Sanders background: back in the nineties no train, tram or other public property was safe from this artist, then known as Zender or Sender. He was a legend on the Amsterdam graffiti scene, and I’m standing right next to him.

Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@ amsterdam-magazine. com and we’ll see what we can do!

Sander was 19 when DJ Cellie asked him and his partner Chaos to paint the Mazzo, a nightclub which was booming back in the day. ‘That is where it all started,’ he tells me as he smokes a cigarette. ‘After the Mazzo we did the Global Chillage, a famous coffeeshop.’ Soon afterwards the first commercial

jobs followed. ‘After a few assignments I went to America to do an internship in Boise, Idaho. I remember the first time I saw the work of an artist called Rick Griffin. It changed my vision on drawing completely.’ Now Sander’s work is influenced by music, skate- and surf culture. He is a so-called ‘distinct illustrator’, an artist who sketches all day long. His black book is filled with little men, robots and typographic images. ‘I love typography,’ he says.

Speaking of which... this bike is starting to look like a robot factory! Using the skills he once practised on the underground network, Sander is transforming his girlfriend’s bicycle. It must have taken some guts to produce that work of art in between passing trains. While I watch him working on the bike for his beloved, there’s not a trace of his graffiti past. This is a pure form of art-love. The Birthday Present

Nowadays Sander works under the name KGB. Among his clients are commercial parties such as Dance Valley and Evotions. But there’s more: his own annual summer festival, Costa del Soul, has grown into a serious party with at least 150 DJs and painters. ‘I want to keep street art alive,’ Sander explains. ‘Costa del Soul is a podium for beginning artists who hopefully become inspired to practise their art.’

A post-work celebration is prepared for Kim the next day. Cake, balloons, streamers and...a bike. But not just any bike: this piece shows how graffiti men behave, after meeting the love of their life. I’m convinced every girl would love to get a moving artwork made by her boyfriend. Sam looks at the bike. ‘Is that mine?’ she asks. ‘Yes’, Sander smiles, ‘Happy Birthday to my baby!’

Like Kim, you can buy a brand new bike at De Fietsfabriek. With Amsterdam Magazine you’ll get a 10% discount (bring along the coupon). Not only are these bikes durable (essential in a country where it’s raining most of the year), but most importantly: you can put your own name or ID-number on it. This will

Bring this voucher and get 10% off on a bike from De Fietsfabriek (Only at Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 12 & Sarphatistraat 141). Valid until February 1 2011. Conditions apply.

make your bike a lot less interesting for both thieves and buyers.

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Cherry Sue One-of-a-kind fifties design text: Suzan Kleuskens

ove vintage but having trouble finding the right size? Cherry Sue is the place to go. Designer Suzanne ‘Sue’ Backhaus produces high quality custom-made dresses, inspired by fifties fashion. Bring your own fabric and she’ll transform it into a one-off dress to impress!

Just a stone’s throw away from the Anne Frank Museum, tucked away in a quiet street in the Jordaan district, Cherry Sue is truly a hidden gem. Entering the premises is like stepping back into 1950s America. Sophisticatedly dressed in a tight high-waisted skirt, a leopard print cardigan and sporting high heels, Suzanne is impressively an all-fifties woman. ‘It’s that subtle combination of super feminine and tongue-in-cheek that I love from this era,’ she says.

Love of vintage Her fascination with the fifties began with a love of its music – Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and Elvis in particular. ‘I also wanted to dress

in a fifties style but couldn’t find what I was looking for. Real vintage dresses are very sought after and quite scarce.’ Inspired by a mother who always made clothes – ‘she put me behind the sewing machine at the age of 11’– it’s no surprise that Suzanne’s love for vintage fashion blossomed into her own label Emerging from former designer’s hub Wella Warenhaus on the Keizersgracht, Suzanne opened her own boutique in June this year. ‘Girls from the age of eleven to sixty find their way to the shop,’ she says. Among them are stylish locals, fifties fashionistas, and well-known (Dutch) artists. Recently Steven Tyler, the lead singer of Aerosmith, fell in love with Cherry Sue whilst browsing in the Jordaan district and bought almost half of her stock.

for detail. ‘Three-quarter sleeves or puff sleeves, calf length or just above the knee; off the shoulder or high neck…anything is possible. You can even bring your own fabric.’ To source appropriate material Suzanne recommends the fabric and haberdashery shops such as Boeken, Nieuwe Hoogstraat 31, close to the Nieuwmarkt district, and Boerenbonthal, Albert Cuypmarkt 188.

Local designers If you’ve set your eyes on the nostalgic radio, record collection, bamboo magazine rack, silk gloves or retro weighing scales that decorate the interior, just tell Sue – as they might be

Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler bought almost half of Cherry Sue’s stock. for sale. Searching for a venue to party in style? Suzanne (being a rock and roll and burlesque dance talent) will happily reveal all the places for you to show off your newfound frocks – and your curves!

Bring your own fabric If your size is not among the one off’s on display, Suzanne will design a bespoke dress to size and personal taste, always with an immaculate eye

Cherry Sue Eerste Leliedwarsstraat 6 +31 (0)20 6233766 www.cherrysue.com [Map 132 - D3]

Dutch a-z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet for you to understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

Amsterdam

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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and

often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can

dutch a-z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice-skating Ice-skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Genever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Genever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

Amsterdam

Nieuwjaarsduik On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange

L Lekkerbek

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P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution

(New Year’s Dive)

Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District [see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.

dutch a-z

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

V VOC

in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

(Dutch East India Company)

Water management

The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on

the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet (Black Pete)

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.

expo

IMMERSION Foam joins Maison Descartes and Museum Van Loon in presenting work by three French photographers who examine the relationship between the individual and society. An exclusive sneak preview!

5 NOVEMBER - 12 JANUARY

Foam_Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam Keizersgracht 609 Saturday-Wednesday 10am-6pm Thursday & Friday 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9pm +31 (0)20 5516500 www.foam.nl [map 126-e/f-7]

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Maison Descartes Vijzelgracht 2A Monday-Thursday 10am-8pm Friday 10am-5pm +31 (0)20 5319501 www.maisondescartes.com [map 131-e8]

Museum Van Loon Keizersgracht 672 Monday-Friday 11am-5pm Closed on Tuesdays +31 (0)20 6245255 www.museumvanloon.nl [map 130-f7]

expo

NOVEMBER Justine Pluvinage showcases four video-portraits of individuals that have chosen not to be a part of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;rat raceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of contemporary society; they have liberated themselves by choosing their own path.

anais

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UTOPIA Alexander Maubert concentrates on an utopic city called New Songdo in South Korea. In this city, technology plays a decisive role in the life of its inhabitants.

utopia

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expo

shangrila

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ANOTHER BEIRUT In Another Beirut, Vera Schöpe depicts a city that is constantly being reconstructed. She focuses on daily situations that are typical of the urban way of living and the way people handle their feelings of isolation.

morning news 68

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Tree growing on a cemetery wall

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MUSEUM CHECK

photos courtesy of the amsterdam dungeon

museum check

The Amsterdam

Dungeon BY Marieke Verhoeven

he Amsterdam Dungeon is a mixture

of museum, theatre and haunted house. Professional actors guide visitors through the dark history of the city, from torture practices during the Spanish Inquisition to the rat-filled streets during the plague. The museum is located in the heart of Amsterdam, just a few hundred metres from Dam Square. Until 1908 the building was used as a church, called the ‘Nieuwezijds Kapel’. Since then it has served various purposes, from an auction house to a catering company. In 2005, The Amsterdam Dungeon moved in. It’s history as a church might not be visible from the outside, but it definitely is on the inside. The columns, original statutes and huge organ create a spooky atmosphere. And that is exactly what the Amsterdam Dungeon is looking for.

Torture rooms

After getting your ticket – which at €21 is pretty pricey – you are guided to an elevator that takes you underground. The 80-minute tour is done in groups of about 20 visitors. Because of the dark and cramped spaces, you are better off visiting on a quiet day, when the groups are smaller. Without giving away too much, the tour takes you from gruesome torture rooms to the inside of a VOC ship. In every room an actor is present, dressed up appropriately and completely in character. Some actors are better than others, but they are all visibly enjoying their role as judge, torturer or ‘soul merchant’. Even though the group mainly consists of international visitors, the actors speak a mixture of Dutch and English. The operational manager later explains that 40 per cent of the museum’s visitors are Dutch and that it is logistically impossible to have both Dutch and English tours. It does make you wonder how much the non-Dutch speakers learn from the tour, since the majority of the script seems to be in Dutch.

The Amsterdam Dungeon recreates the dark side of the 17th century

Roller-coaster ride

Overall, The Amsterdam Dungeon succeeds in recreating the dark side of the 17th century, the VOC room in particular looks pretty convincing as a dirty and overcrowded ship. But despite the special effects and some pitch-black moments, it never gets really spooky. As long as you are not claustrophobic or under ten years old, you will be fine. It is definitely a fun and original way to discover the dark sides of Amsterdam’s history. However, if you are looking for more in-depth information on the city’s history or are in need of a real scare, you might be better off somewhere else. The best feature is saved for last though: the tour ends with an actual roller-coaster ride through the old church. The Amsterdam Dungeon Rokin 78 +31 (0)20 5308500 www.the-dungeons.nl [map 127-e5]

THE VERDICT

Madie (28)

engineer from Czech Republic I really enjoyed it, you could tell the actors were having a lot of fun playing these characters. We are visiting Amsterdam for the third time and this was something we had not seen before. I was not afraid myself though. I would definitely recommend it to friends visiting Amsterdam!

(27) +/- Ohad

student from Israel I had a good time, it was nice that you could participate in the show. The actors continually involve the visitors in their act. I’m not a shy person, so this was fun for me. We did feel it was kind of expensive, if you go with a whole family, it will cost you over a hundred euros! And we had some strange associations coming from the Anne Frank Museum and then ending up in a torture room...

Jeannol (52)

builder from France

My wife and I weren’t thrilled. We missed some spice, a feeling of sensation. We didn’t feel ‘carried away’ by the actors at any moment. Our first stop today at Madame Tussauds was really nice, but this was somewhat disappointing.

Value for money: 3/5 Waiting time in line: 0-10min Entrance: adults €21, children €14 (10-15 years), 50% off after 3pm Comments: A fun and original alternative to the many ‘traditional’ museums in the city, good for visiting with a group of friends or with family, entertaining staff, nice gift shop (including typical Dutch sweets), beautiful incorporation of the old church elements of the building. Wheelchair-friendly: Not really. A lot of the tour is through small, dark spaces and the roller-coaster ride at the end is not suitable for wheelchairs. Opening hours: daily from 11.00 am. The last tour starts at 5.30pm.

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best of amsterdam

Places to eat Best of Amsterdam

For Dinner

Fifteen

Seasons

Nevy

Bridges

Fifteen Amsterdam is no ordinary restaurant. It is based on the successful concept of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen in London, and continues his vision which is to give 15-20 youngsters each year the opportunity to change their lives and train to become chefs.

The trendy yet casual atmosphere, combined with the excellent service and seasonal specials makes for a splendid evening whether with friends, colleagues, or that special someone.

Enjoy excellent fresh fish, cooked to your wishes with an accompanying sauce of your choice. Offering great value for money, Nevy guarantees a fantastic seafood experience in a delightful setting.

Bridges is all about fish. The best fish, always and only in the proper season. They offer a wide selection of fresh fish and seafood, both in their restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Choose from oysters, lobster sandwiches, and super-fresh fish, all prepared while you watch.

Jollemanhof 9

Herenstraat 16

Westerdoksdijk 40A

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197

[map 21-j3]

[map 22-E3]

[map 3-f5]

+31 (0)20 5095015 www.fifteen.nl

+31 (0)6 53697057 www.seasonsrestaurant.nl

+31 (0)20 3446409 www.nevy.nl

For Dinner

+31 (0)20 5553560 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl

For Lunch

Toro Dorado

Amsterdam Jewel Cruises

Golden Brown Bar

The Pancake Bakery

Steak restaurant Toro Dorado serves a selection of quality steaks, grilled to perfection. Choose from Royal Wagyu Kobe Select, Scottish Aberdeen Angus or Argentinian Hereford. A friendly, relaxed restaurant in the city centre.

Enjoy a 3-course à la carte dinner whilst cruising the world famous canals on a classic riverboat, built in 1898. A complete evening dinner cruise of almost 3 hours including an amuse-bouche followed by 3 gourmet courses.

The Golden Brown Bar & Restaurant has a nice atmosphere with a modern interior and promising menu on a suprising menu card.

This typical Dutch pancake house is inside a beautiful canal house. Amsterdam’s finest pancakes are served with a smile. A fun place to lunch!

Spuistraat 3A

Singel 235

Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146

Prinsengracht 191-A

[map 24-f3]

[map 25-e4]

[map 45-8a]

[map 27-d3]

+31 (0)20 4218695 www.torodorado.com

+31 (0)20 4221385 www.amsterdamjewelcruises.com

+31 (0)20 6124076 www.goldenbrownbar.nl

+31 (0)20 6251333 www.pancake.nl

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best of amsterdam

Family Activities Best of Amsterdam

Activities

Attractions in Amsterdam

MacBike

Boom Chicago

Artis Zoo

Nemo

Quick, fun, and affordable! Get to know Amsterdam with friends, family, and colleagues. Use one of their bike route maps to navigate Amsterdam yourself or chose to take one of the daily guided tours. They also offer specialised excursions with tour guides. Bikes with seating for children are available.

Boom Chicago’s English-language comedy shows are an exhilarating mix of sketches, clever improv, music and video. Shows every night. New show: Your Worst Fears! From crime to growing old to meeting your maker, Boom has created a hilarious show about what scares us. Runs through Nov 29.

Founded in 1838, the Artis Zoo is still as enchanting as it was nearly two centuries ago. Not only is Artis an oasis of peace right at the heart of a fast-paced city, it is also a haven for some 700 species of animals and 200 varieties of trees, many on the verge of extinction. A definite must-see.

Everything in NEMO is connected to science and technology. Exhibitions, theatre performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. You will smell, hear, feel and see how the world works. NEMO is a pretty smart thing to do!

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 116

Leidseplein 12

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40

Oosterdok 2

[map 36-g5]

[map 128-d7]

[map -i6]

[map i4]

+31 (0)20 6200985 www.macbike.nl

+31 (0)20 4230101 www.boomchicago.nl/en/

0900 2784796 www.artis.nl

+31 (0)20 5313233 www.e-nemo.nl/en

Attractions outside Amsterdam

Playgrounds

Efteling

Dolfinarium

TunFun Playground

FunForest

Efteling is a magical theme park that promises a thrilling experience. Lose yourself in this fairytale world and take the lead role in the adventure. Forget everything else for a while and take the leading role in the adventure.

Meet the playful stars of the sea! With shows and performances, playgrounds and underwater panoramas, there’s loads to discover at the Dolfinarium.

TunFun is an indoor playground for children aged 1-12. Situated in a former traffic underpass in the centre of Amsterdam, kids can have fun in a sportive and creative way . TunFun offers plenty of opportunities to climb, creep and crawl. They have a disco, slides, trampolines, an indoor football pitch and much more.

A Fun Forest full of exciting adventures suitable for the young and old. Fun Forest has 8 different courses in living trees, with a variety of heights and difficulty levels. You’ll find yourself up for some exciting and surprising challenges!

Europalaan 1 KAATSHEUVEL

Strandboulevard Oost 1 HARDERWIJK

Mr. Visserplein 7 [map 39-g6]

Bosbaanweg 3 amstelveen

0900 0161 www.efteling.com

+31 (0)34 1467467 www.dolfinarium.nl

+31 (0)20 6894300 www.tunfun.nl

+31 (0)6 50271983 www.funforest.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

Open in 2010 from 20 February to 31 October.

best of amsterdam

Culture Vulture Best of Amsterdam

Museums

Rijksmuseum

Hermitage

Van Gogh Museum

Holland Pass

The Rijksmuseum offers an overview of Dutch art and history from medieval times to the 20th century. The museum (opened in 1885) is currently undergoing major renovation work.

This is the first time that any Dutch museum has devoted an exhibition to Alexander the Great (September 2010 till March 2011), his journey to the East, and the influence of Hellenism. The exhibition spans a period of almost 2500 years.

The museum’s permanent collection includes more than 200 paintings by Van Gogh, 500 drawings and more than 750 letters. Visit, take a look and (re)discover The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and many more.

Holland Pass offers you great savings and convenience during your trip to Amsterdam or other Dutch cities and other sights of interest. The participants within the pass include museums, attractions, public transportation, restaurants and shops.

Stadhouderskade 42

Nieuwe Herengracht 14

Paulus Potterstraat 7

[map 28-d8]

[map 29-g6]

[map 30-c9]

+31 (0)20 6747000 www.rijksmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 5308751 www.hermitage.nl

+31 (0)20 5705200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl

Museums

Experience

Museum of Bags and Purses

Heineken Experience

House of Bols

Gassan Diamonds Factory

Discover the unique collection of Hendrikje Ivo, who collected bags for more than 35 years. The museum houses a collection of more than 4000 bags and is the largest museum of bags in the world.

It’s not the Heineken Museum, it’s the Heineken Experience. Why? Because four levels of interactive experiences in the former brewery will plunge you chin deep into the fascinating world of Heineken! See it, hear it, smell it, taste it and enjoy it.

House of Bols revolves around the rich history of the world’s oldest distillery: Lucas Bols. But you should also experience the unique taste experiment in The Hall of Taste. And do you want to achieve perfection in bartending? Visit the Flare Booth to practise your skills.

The Amsterdam diamond company Gassan Diamonds is located in a former steam-driven diamond factory. You can watch diamond cutters at work while a guide tells you all about diamond processing. Experience the thrill of the diamond polishing process with a free diamond factory tour at Gassan Diamonds.

Herengracht 573

Stadhouderskade 78

Paulus Potterstraat 14

Nw Uilenburgerstr 173- 175

[map 32-f7]

[map 33-e9]

[map 34-c9]

[map 35-g5]

+31 (0)20 5246452 www.tassenmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 52392220 www.heinekenexperience.com

+31 (0)20 5708575 www.houseofbols.nl

+31 (0)20 6225333 www.gassandiamonds.nl

+31 (0)20 419 32 20 www.hollandpass.com

Tours

best of amsterdam

Live music Best of Amsterdam

Heineken Music Hall

Bourbon Street

Paradiso

Melkweg

Heineken Music Hall Since 2001 Heineken Music Hall lives up to her credo “Live will never be the same!”. The concept, which is internationally refreshing, offers over 600.000 visitors a year an unforgettable night out.

Famous musicians, such as Sting, Jeff Healey, Bobby Kimball(Toto), The entire Rolling Stones Crew and the late dutch rock & roll hero Herman Brood (may he rest in peace) also found their way to the Bourbon Street.

Because of the diversity in musical genres and non-musical programming, Paradiso draws a greatly diverse crowd: from young to old and from punk rockers to country music lovers, a reflection of the Dutch population.

The Melkweg is one of the most well-known cultural centres within and outside the Netherlands, and is unique because of a programme that unites five artistic disciplines under one roof: music, dance/ theatre, film, photography and media art.

Arena Boulevard 590

Leidsekruisstraat 6

Weteringschans 6-8

Lijnbaansgracht 234

+31 (0)20 4097979 www.heineken-music-hall.nl

[map 47-d7]

[map 48-d8]

[map 49-c7/d7]

+31 (0)20 6233440 www.bourbonstreet.nl

+31 (0)20 6264521 www.paradiso.nl

+31 (0)20 5318181 www.melkweg.nl

Concertgebouw

Winston Kingdom

Sugar Factory

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

Multidisciplinary programming bringing you innovative parties, young talent, live shows, new disco, progressive clubs, poetry, dancefloor jazz, art, bigbands and a creatively motivated public!

The spectacular building has become Amsterdam’s Concert Hall of the 21st Century. The Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ shows current musical developments in the form of special series, festivals, multimedia concerts and exhibitions.

Described as the best instrument in the orchestra it houses, the Concertgebouw. This must have been what the great and the good of Amsterdam had in mind in 1881, when they decided that the Dutch capital should have a proper concert hall worthy of the name.

Open every night of the week until late; the program includes indierock, electro, drum n bass, hip-hop, dub-reggae and unpretentious retro-pop and disco, on most nights preluded by local and international live acts of all sorts and styles.

Lijnbaansgracht 238

Piet Heinkade 1

Concertgebouwplein 2-6

Warmoesstraat 129

[map 50-d7]

[map j3]

[map c10]

[map 76-f4]

+31 (0)20 6270008 www.sugarfactory.nl

+31 (0)20 7882010 www.muziekgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 5730573 www.concertgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 6231380 www.winston.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

best of amsterdam

Gay Scene Best of Amsterdam

Bars

Shop

Roque

The Queen’s Head

Getto

Vrolijk Bookshop

Trendy Club Roque boasts a cocktail bar, funky dance floor and a DJ spinning all sorts from old-school house to cutting edge dance. It’s popular with gays, locals, students and lipstick lesbos alike.

Located right in the heart of the Red Light District, the Queen’s Head is undoubtedly one of Amsterdam’s most happening gay bars. The bar has a large video screen and hosts weekly events. Check their website for more details.

The great sort of place you could visit one or three times a week, eat and be merry. A place with an attitude free zone, for gays, lesbians, bi, queers and straights.

The Amsterdam based gay & lesbian ‘Vrolijk’ shop has two floors with lots of queer books/ movies (DVDs) with Lesbian, Gay, Transgender or Camp content. A must visit!

Amstel 178

Zeedijk 20

Warmoesstraat 51

Paleisstraat 135

[map 54-g6]

[map 55-g3]

[map 56-f3]

[map 57-e4]

+31 (0)6 47322051 www.clubroque.nl

+31 (0)20 4202475 www.queenshead.nl

+31 (0)20 4215151 www.getto.nl

+31 (0)20 6235142 www.vrolijk.nu

Shop

Cruise

Mr. B

Rob

The Eagle

Club Church

Mr. B’s T-Shirts are world-famous. His original leather shop is here in Amsterdam, on Warmoesstraat.

This famous gay leather and rubber shop just moved to a new location in the Warmoesstraat.

One of Amsterdam’s very first gay establishments, cruise bar The Eagle attracts a mixed crowd of both tourists and locals.

Club Church is a new dance club on Kerkstraat. They have daily changing (sex) themes, with dance and fetish parties at the weekend.

Warmoesstraat 89

Warmoesstraat 71

Warmoesstraat 90

Kerkstraat 52

[map 58-f3]

[map 59-f3]

[map 60-f3]

+31 (0)20 7883060 www.misterb.com

+31 (0)20 4283000 www.rob.nl

+31 (0)20 6278634

[map 61-d7] www.clubchurch.nl

Bars

Best of Amsterdam

Bars

MiNiBAR

Vyne

MiNiBAR is a new kind of bar. A bar where you never have to wait to be served again because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the bartender. Check in with the concierge and get the key to your personal fridge. Each MiNiBAR contains all the classics like beer, wine and spirits, as well as a few surprises.

Vyne, on the Prinsengracht, is a wine bar with a cool interior. Order by the glass and you can choose from 24 different types of wine. Order by the bottle, and the choice is even bigger.

Prinsengracht 478

Prinsengracht 411

[map 40-d7]

[map 41-d5]

+31 (0)20 4221935 www.minibaronline.com

+31 (0)20 3446408 www.vyne.nl

Clubs

Feijoa

Bubbles & Wines

At this luxuriously designed wine/ cocktail bar you immediately notice that service has a high priority. The barman shakes not only classic cocktails but also comes up with stunningly creative cocktail recipes of his own!

Located on one of the quaintest lanes in Amsterdam, and only a mere two minute walk from Dam Square, you will find champagne and wine bar bubbles&wines. Their extensive collection consists of over 50 wines by the glass and 180 wines by the bottle.

Vijzelstraat 39

Nes 37

[map 106-f6]

[map 43-f4/5]

+31 (0)6 53726137

+31 (0)20 4223318 www.bubblesandwines.com

no map here? Browse the Amsterdam City Map at www.amsterdam-magazine.com

Want a real copy? Send an email to info@amsterdam-magazine.com or call us on +31 (0)20 84 616 90 to see if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got some left...

Within the magazine youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see map references, which are connected to this map. So no more getting lost in Amsterdam...

fr ee city ma p

things to do

Amsterdam when...

You’re bored by: Daniela van der Linde

With autumn fast approaching, there’s a good chance the rain will be plentiful and the winds chilly; but don’t worry – there are lots of things to do!

Café Americain

GARTINE

If you enjoy lavish buffets and delicious food, try high tea at Café Americain. On Sundays, a jazz band provides the soundtrack for their all-you-can-eat brunch buffet. Reservation advised.

Gartine is another little gem, hidden in an alley near the Dam. They specialise in ‘slow food’, and many ingredients are sourced from their own vegetable garden. The place is popular, so book ahead.

Café Americain

Leidsekade 97 High Tea: Mon-Sat 2pm-5pm, €29.50 Sunday Jazz Brunch: 12.30pm-3.30pm, €35.00 Reservations: +31 (0)20 5563010 Tram: 1,2,5,7,10 [map 7-c7]

Gartine

Taksteeg 7 High Tea: Wed-Sun 10am-6pm Reservations: +31 (0)20 3204132 Tram: 1,2,5,4,9,14,25

[map 12-E5]

nemo

museum het schip

hammam

Discover how the world works at the Science Centre NEMO. Their interactive exhibitions provide hours of entertainment for kids and adults alike. Learning has never been so much fun! Have a drink on the rooftop piazza; the view is spectacular and not to be missed.

Want to learn more about the city’s architecture? Museum Het Schip organises bus tours and boat excursions taking in the highlights of typical ‘Amsterdam School’ style. Reservations are a must.

Indulge yourself in eastern luxury with a visit to Amsterdam’s Hammam. Offering mud baths, saunas and massages, it’s the perfect place to relax. Sorry gentleman – the hammam is for women only.

Science Centre NEMO

Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 Bus excursions: dates vary, 13.15pm, €40 Boat excursion: Fri 13.30pm, €42.50 Reservations by email: info@museumhetschip.nl Bus 22

Oosterdok 2 (next to Centraal Station) Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, €12.50 Information: +31 (0)20 5313233

[map 13-I4]

Amsterdam

magazine

Museum Het Schip

Hammam

Zaanstraat 88 Mon-Fri 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm Reservations: +31 (0)206814818 Tram 3, Bus 22

things to do

Amsterdam when...

You’re broke BY: Linda Leonard

Whether you’re on a shoestring or have temporarily maxed out your cards, there are plenty of things to do in Amsterdam that won’t cost the earth.

friday night skate

Strap on your protective gear and join the Amsterdam Friday night skate. Kick-off is at 8pm in front of the Filmmuseum at the Vondelpark.

Friday Night Skate Vondelpark 3 Starts: 8pm

[map 16-B8]

dutch masters

Begijnhof

Just seconds away from the Kalverstraat shopping street you’ll find the Civic Guards Gallery. Basically a public street with a glass roof, except this one comes with a display of 17th century paintings by Dutch Masters.

If you’re overwhelmed by bikes and trams coming from every direction, discover some tranquillity at the Begijnhof. It’s a 14th century gated community, originally built as a proper place for unmarried women to live.

Civic Guards Gallery

Begijnhof

Enter from: Kalverstraat 92 Sint Luciensteeg 27 Open daily from 10.00-17.00

Open daily from 9am-5pm. Access via the gates at Gedempte Begijnensloot or Spui.

[map 14-E5]

[map 15-E5]

highbrow

Pancakes and movies

Grab a quick lunch and go to a highbrow concert. All concerts start at 12.30pm. * On Tuesdays you can listen to opera in the Boekman hall of the Stopera, Waterlooplein 22. * On Wednesdays, pay a visit to the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10. * The Amsterdam Conservatory students perform on Fridays, Oosterdokskade 151. * Do you prefer organ music? Visit the Westerkerk on Fridays, Prinsengracht 281.

At the Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen, a charming little farmer’s house in Westerpark, you can eat pancakes (€2.50), play games, watch movies and, in the evenings, enjoy a concert. There’s a vintage shop too. But you can leave your wallet at home because the items are not for sale. Ons Genoegen

Spaarndammerdijk 319

[map 17-g6 | 18-c10 | 19-H3 | 20-d3/4]

golden key

The Golden KeyS Are four or five star hotels a little beyond your budget? Don’t worry – here’s some five star advice from a top Amsterdam concierge.

OCK UNL TY CI THE

BY: SARAH MOORE

this on such a touristy street but it’s very nice. Of course, if you want the best sushi in the city, go to the Yamazato in the Hotel Okura.

Dam square is a bit too busy for me. Can you suggest a better square? A nice square to hang around and have dinner is the Marie Heinekenplein (behind the Heineken Experience). While you’re there, pay a visit to ‘De taart van mijn tante’ for great pie.

Where is a scenic area to ride your bike? My favourite place for a scenic bike ride is the Vondelpark. Be sure to stop at ‘t Blaauwe Theehuis (the blue tea house) for a drink; it’s the perfect holiday setting on a sunny day. Another favourite spot is the Jordaan district. On Saturdays there is a farmers’ market, and there are great restaurants and shops for any

Edwin van der Gracht Concierge at NH Barbizon Palace Hotel for 19 years Advises around 60,000 guests per year

Each month Amsterdam Magazine interviews a hotel concierge associated with Les Clefs d’Or. Les Clefs d’Or members have dedicated many years of hard work and training to the concierge profession. They are experts on their cities. Whether requesting something simple or complex, you can be sure they are a trusted resource to business travellers and tourists alike. More information: www.hotelconcierge.nl.

Where‘s the best location for taking beautiful photographs of the city? The La Place Café on the top floor of the public library. Visit their terrace when the sun is setting for an amazing view. There are also some beautiful hidden gardens in Amsterdam, such as in Museum Van Loon, which are always good for taking pictures.

I’m in the mood for some great sushi. Where should I go? For good sushi close to this hotel, go to Kyoto Café at Damrak 44. You wouldn’t expect to find a quaint place like

day of the week.

I need some retail therapy. Where’s a good shopping district? A good shopping district is the Haarlemmerbuurt.This is the place to go for handmade chocolates or a good bottle of wine. Many locals do their shopping here but more and more tourists are discovering the delights of this neighbourhood.

Can you recommend a good wine bar in the city? A good wine bar in Amsterdam is Bubbles and Wines located in the Nes (close to Dam Square). This is a good place to relax and enjoy good lounge music. They offer 50 varieties by the glass and 180 by the bottle. They also offer a wide selection of Champagnes for celebratory occasions.

captured

03/10 Can you feel iT? - Club AIR

A party en homage to the legendary club iT, which is now home to Club AIR. Club AIR and famous local entertainer Mayday created a concept that strikes a perfect balance between gay and straight entertainment. Expect the most extravagant acts and the best DJs from the past. The party’s slogan is: ‘Relive the past, celebrate the future!’ (Next party New Year’s Eve 2010 )

CAPTURED

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

What you missed last month! By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

02/10 - Annual event Night of the AdEaters 2010 - Pathe Tuschinski

We’re talking impactsurvival, party-style for hardcore creatives. Starring Michiel Döbelman has deep roots in the

360 outstanding, hilarious,

Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company

fascinating and sometimes even

Savage Productions organises events for

heartbreaking commercials

Elite Models, Amsterdam Fashion Week,

projected on the cinema screen,

Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

this creative festival also includes famous writers, standup comedians and DJs.

Amsterdam

magazine

captured

The Amsterdam Polo Trophy is the largest public polo event in the Netherlands.Â Every year the event attracts more than 2,000 spectators who witness great polo in the beautiful ambiance of the Amsterdam forest. Location: Amsterdamse Bos, Amsterdam

25/09 - annual event Amsterdam Polo Trophy - Amsterdamse Bos

08/10 CRAZY PIANOS - Panama

A great live show where the masters of piano turn the audience upside down. The pianists will play any request! In perfect harmony with the drummers, they play a fun mix of 70s, 80s and contemporary hits. Though they might start slowly, they will surely work up to a spectacular finale on the night. Every second friday of the month

upcoming

! d e s s i m e b o t t No

upcoming

By Linda Engels

What’s going on in November? These 6 events should give you a pretty good idea!

5-7 nov

6 nov

12-13 nov

storytelling festival

london calling

It is one of the oldest forms of entertainment and whether you are 1 or 100 years old, it’s always great to listen to a story. At this festival the best story tellers from around the world will share their best, most moving, exciting and scary tales with the audience. This third edition of the festival is based around the theme ‘our world’. This theme is translated in the stories, focusing on people, their surroundings and the way humankind has explored the planet and the way we treat it now.

The twice-yearly music festival London Calling has been Amsterdam’s ticket to the hippest indie venues in the UK. Since 1994 the festival have invited the UK’s most promising up’n coming indie bands from across the North Sea. From the likes of Blur, Bloc Party, Franz Ferdinand and the Libertines and more recently The XX and The Ting Tings. The festival is often also the bands’ first trip to the Netherlands and sometimes even to the continent. In this edition, the bands We Are Scientists, The Futureheads, Wavves and The Neat will perform.

When: 5 to 7 November Where: Three locations along NDSM-Pier Admission: €15 per performance www.storytellingfestival.nl image: Museum Nacht

image: Museum Nacht

Museum Night For a relatively small city, Amsterdam has a big amount of museums and cultural institutions. And one night a year all 45 of them stay open until 2 in the morning. In this special Museum Night, visitors can enjoy extra activities like live music, DJ’s, dance, performances, film, special tours and food & drinks.– alongside the permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. For whom the night is still young at 2AM there are plenty of specially organised after parties to go to. When: 7 to 9 October Where: in 42 museums in Amsterdam Admission: €17,50 pre-sale, €20 on night itself www.n8.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

When: 12 to 13 November Where: Paradiso Admission: €17,50 per day, €30 for both days www.londoncalling.nl image: London Calling

upcoming

14 nov

17 - 28 Nov

18-20 nov

IDFA

image: Ada Nieuwendijk

Saint Nicholas arrives in Amsterdam What Santa Claus is for most children, Sinterklaas or Saint Nicholas is for the Dutch. Every year he and his helpers, the Black Petes, make the boat journey from their home in Spain to the Netherlands to hand out sweets and presents to the (well behaved) children. This takes two weeks, with the good man’s birthday – 5 December – as the grand finale. The festivities start in Amsterdam on 14 November, when Sinterklaas and over 640 Black Petes board at the Scheepvaart-museum. Afterwards he rides through the city on his horse Amerigo, ofcourse combined with all possible festivities. When: 14 November Where: City centre. Boat arrives at the Scheepvaart-museum Admission: Free www.sintinamsterdam.nl

The International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam (IDFA) is the largest event of its kind in the world – showcasing a staggering 300 documentaries. IDFA gives directors, producers, financiers and of course, the general public the chance to mingle and exchange ideas in an atmosphere geared towards creativity. The festival also offers an extra events programme to complement the films showcased in the festival. After-parties, talk shows and debates will occur alongside the main screenings. When: 17 to 28 November Where: Theatres all over town Admission: €9 www.idfa.nl image: IDFA

image: Kenzo Reeder

Burlesque festival The 2nd Annual International Amsterdam Burlesque Festival covers three nights of World-Class Burlesque fun. The festivities will range from Classic Strip-Tease, Circus Sideshow and Variety Acts. Performers hail from both within Holland and abroad. Chaz Royal, producer of the London Burlesque Festival is hosting the event and Holland’s most recognized Burlesque performer, Miss Beeby Rose will be in attendance. When: 18 to 20 November Where: Panama Admission: €12,50 to €40 www.amsterdamburlesquefest.com

Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: Hotel Casa 400 Room Rate: from â&#x201A;Ź75

Shhh... 92

Amsterdam

magazine

amsterdam sleeps

Hotel Casa 400 TEXT BY VINCENT VAN DIJK

asa 400 has been a concept in the Amsterdam student and hotel world for 50 years. It successfully combines a hotel with affordable student accommodation. Along with their rooms, their restaurant, Restaurant Circles, provides a surprisingly high standard of culinary delights.

Blue M&Ms

photos courtesy of hotel casa 400

‘No, this is the old building,’ a student says when I enter. ‘The brand new Casa is over there.’ The entrance hall is light, offering a scenic view across a sloping courtyard. Amsterdam’s crest, the three crosses, can be seen on the flooring, in the corridors, as well as the hotel rooms. The comfortable room includes a wall-to-wall desk, a striking red chair, a bed with a brown leather headboard, and bright TL lighting. I would undoubtedly have taken less time with my studies if I had been staying here during school. There’s a knock at the door. ‘Here are your blue M&Ms’ says the laughing general manager. He has taken the joke about my personal demands literally. He hands me a large dish of blue sweets with a printed article. Apparently Blue M&Ms are good for healing a broken back. ‘Didn’t you say you had such a bad back because of all those horrendous hotel beds? It apparently contains a substance that really works. Another surprise for you: a physiotherapist has been given a permanent room in the hotel, allowing him to treat guests and employees. And he’ll be coming to treat you too.’ The physiotherapist sets up the folding bed and asks me to remove my top. He feels along my vertebrae and ribs and says ‘Ah,this is where

‘I would undoubtedly have taken less time over my studies if I had been studying here’ it is.’ He massages carefully and places his hands against my back in three different places, pushing until it crunches. ‘Right, that’s it. Luckily you’ll be sleeping in a good bed tonight.’ The bed is indeed very comfortable and I don’t suffer from any backaches. Was it the blue M&Ms? Unfortunately, the next morning I find myself with aching muscles where muscles have never been discovered before.

Student room The manager joins me for breakfast and explains the concept behind the dorm/hotel. ‘The hotel has been managed by a foundation with the objective of offering students cheap accommodation. Just before exams, students must leave their rooms and we turn the space into hotel rooms until October. In the new building we have 150 permanent hotel rooms. Students have exactly the same space, but they receive communal cooking facilities on every floor. The rooms are much more luxurious compared to the previous building including flat-screen TVs and Internet access, but still very affordable.’ Affordable or not, to me Casa 400 is the best excuse to do a new Master’s degree, although I would definitely prefer the hotel and restaurant side to the student aspect. I am a service-lover.

Hotel Casa 400 Eerste Ringdijkstraat 4 31 (0)20 6651171 www.hotelcasa400.nl

amsterdam cocktail

Amsterdam Cocktail

Twenty Third

Want to enjoy the freshest mojito while gazing across a panoramic view of the city? Then escape the hustle and bustle and head over to the elegant Hotel Okura.

By Sarah moore

International Atmosphere Originating in Tokyo in 1962, the Hotel Okura chain has expanded internationally over the years, and now can be found throughout Asia and North America. While Amsterdam is home to the hotel’s only European base, its Japanese roots attract a varied clientele. Japanese businessmen, Asian tourists and Dutch locals all frequent the establishment in search of fine dining and drinks, making for a pleasant and diverse atmosphere.

Extraordinary View There are two bars in the hotel, with a third brasserie currently undergoing renovation and due to open early in January 2011. The art deco style Lobby Bar on the ground floor is an ideal venue for a daytime drink. However, the real bar experience begins in the Twenty Third Bar. This stylish bar offers a panoramic view of Amsterdam that can rarely be seen from the traditional Dutch buildings in the city. I found the atmosphere and the view to be just as enticing as their cocktails so I suggest skipping the Lobby Bar and heading straight up to enjoy a cocktail with an amazing view.

Twenty Third Bar @ Hotel Okura Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 Open daily 6pm–1am +31 (0)20 6787111 www.okura.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

Excellent Service Head bartender Marc Wüst, who has been with the hotel for 23 years, emphasises the need for good service. His goal is to make everyone feel comfortable and give guests the whole package. ‘I must love it, or else I wouldn’t have been doing it for 23 years,’ he explains. ‘I like serving people, it’s more involved than just bartending.’ Though the focus is primarily on quality service, the bar staff do not neglect the art of mixing a good cocktail. In the past it has been named ‘Best Cocktail Bar’ in the Netherlands by the Havana Club, and its awardwinning mojito still attracts Amsterdam locals on a regular basis. Upon sampling the mojito, it’s easy to see why their signature drink has locals biking out of the city centre for a sip. The mint and limes are fresh, it’s not too sugary and the rum is not overbearing but strong enough to give you that classic mojito kick. But don’t worry if cocktails aren’t your thing. The bar has also been credited with having ‘The Best Champagne List’ by Perswijn & Champagne Information Centre and offers a rare Bollinger by the glass. If you’re looking for a slightly more upscale evening with a stunning view of Amsterdam, then take the trip south to the Hotel Okura’s Twenty Third Bar. Rest assured, you will be well looked after. photo courtesy of okura hotel

t can be difficult to find true elegance in a city known for its cosy bars and casual bruin cafés. But tucked away in south Amsterdam is the Hotel Okura, a five-star hotel known for its excellent service and stylish Japanese design. As you take in the extraordinary view of the city upon entering the Twenty Third Bar (unsurprisingly located on the 23rd floor), you know you have entered a place that has mastered elegance and class.

amsterdam cocktail

Manager Hotel Bars

Marc Wüst What’s your favourite Classic Cocktail? I love a Martini, stirred not shaken. What do you think of Tiki Cocktails? At the Hotel Okura, we prefer traditional, classic cocktails rather than Tiki cocktails. Do you use premixed juices? Our lemon juice, orange juice and sweet and sour are all freshly made here. What’s the fastest cocktail you can make? Martinis and daiquiris are fast. Mojitos are the slowest cocktails, though they’re our most popular drink! What’s your favourite bar in Amsterdam? My own. I’m not the youngest person anymore so I like to go home when I’m done working. What would a typical Amsterdam cocktail look like? Bols genever is becoming more popular and you can use it to replace gin or vodka in any traditional cocktail. Also, Jenever Van Wees, a real old Dutch genever, is very popular among the Japanese guests here.

column

Sex and the stad

As an ex-pat that’s been in the sex industry for over a decade, it never ceases to amaze me that the preconceived notions about the oldest profession in the world still remain the same. We need someone to set the record straight once and for all – which I’ll attempt to do through this column. In this issue I’ll battle the forces of tabloid legend and reality TV to ensure that your next visit to a lady of the night will prove enlightening in every way. So without further ado here are five wrong-headed assumptions guaranteed to get my panties in a twist.

- By Lauren Wissot -

We’re all working to pay for our drug habits Sure it’s true that some of us are junkies. But if you were to compare the percentage of pill-popping prostitutes to, say, coke-snorting stockbrokers you’d probably come up with a fairly equal number. Addiction is a hazard of the trade but not the rule.

party till all hours on a Saturday night because we’ve got to get the tots off to football practice the next morning. No matter how disturbing this notion may be to many, the fact of the matter is we’re often as boring as you.

We’ll do anything for enough euros

While everyone has a price we all have our limits. And while most of us are highly accommodating to a wide On the other end of the spectrum a lot of guys assume variety of fetishes if a girl says no, she means no. I can’t we’re only doing this until we even count how many times can finance a more socially I’ve politely turned down a ‘Unless you’re Brad Pitt or Bill sexual request that wasn’t acceptable lifestyle, which is Gates don’t even think about quite condescending since my thing only to have the trying that!’ it indicates a belief that we guy counter, ‘How much?’. must (or should) hate what Unless you’re Brad Pitt or we do. The fact is the vast majority of hookers have chosen Bill Gates don’t even think about trying that. this industry because we like sex and we’re good at it. And We’re too busy to remember if you don’t tip that’s not a crime. At least not in Amsterdam. You’ll get what you pay for. If you plan on returning a Our lives revolve around sex generous tip is a must (we have an elephant’s memory As much as most of us prefer screwing to the nine-tofor both big spenders and cheapskates alike) and if you’re five grind it’s still a job – meaning our profession doesn’t a one-time client just do the right thing. Karma can be a define us. A lot of us are single mums with kids who can’t John’s best friend.

We’re all working to pay for college tuition

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Framed! BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www.schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sneak preview!

Date: 1 October 2010 Place: Spuistraat A large group of angry squatters passed through town to demonstrate against the squatting ban that went into effect that day. A friend of mine was working in the neighbourhood and I remembered her telling me about her new shoes: army boots, the ones squatters love so much. Since the demonstration seemed like a complete farce to me, with all those clichĂŠd banners and hoods, I started to feel a bit rebellious myself. I called my friend the ultimate fashion chick - and asked her to pose for me. As an exception to the rule, for the first time in my life I shot a picture that was directed.

Amsterdam

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