Amsterdam Magazine no 2 - October 2010 by Amsterdam Magazine

€4.95

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

September 2010 • no. 1

m a g a z i n e

The streets of Amsterdam 6 ways to use and abuse them

Boney M. meets Skunk Anansie ‘I hate it, I hate it, I hate it’ Getting around

And: Heads-Up - Word on the Street - Dutch Treat - Money Index - Pimp my Bike - Amsterdam Cocktail - and more...

e in Cit si y de Ma ! p

Volendam & Marken

featured Walking the streets

6 ways to use and abuse them

the regular 18

interview Meet the Dutch: 100% Isis Word on the street import / export: Skin & Bobby Farrell

28 42 53

getting around: Volendam & Marken golden key: Tips from the experts pimp my bike: Eva Bartels gets creative

64 38 58 46

reviewed amsterdam sleeps: Lloyd Hotel dutchgrub: Altmann Restaurant museum check: Van Gogh Museum

letter from the editor spamsterdam heads-up: News from the city

column 93

framed: By Thomas Schlijper

fashion

reportage urban jungle: An Artis update

11 12 14

96 25 73

L’origine d’Amour

expo 30

Metamorphose Fergus Greer

the guide free city map Amsterdam do’s & dont’s wat kost dat? A money index am5terdam in numb3rs

more... dutch treat amsterdam cocktail things to do: When you’re bored or broke captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed

best of amsterdam

83 50 56 57 86

27 94 76 78 82

About Amsterdam Magazine

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With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges.

To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office at: +31 (0)20 8461690.

Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine

Would you like to become a distributor of Amsterdam Magazine? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com. ---------------------------------------------------------Amsterdam Magazine is printed at Senefelder Misset BV Distributed within the Netherlands by TNT Post ÂŠ Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2010. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.

Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com Distrubtion Manager: Liam Carter distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com

Contributors Laura Andalou, Eline Bochem, Wieke Braat, Eva Bartels, Anna Cornelissen-Wiarda, Vincent van Dijk, Martina Danelaite, Michiel DĂśbelman, Dutchgrub, Linda Engels, Tommy Hagen, Sjoerd van Hemert, Daniela van der Linde, Mike Peek, Rosanne Prakke, Daniel Read, Linda Leonard, Marieke Spanjaard, Thomas Schlijper, Marieke Verhoeven, Eva van Wijngaarden, Helen Worswick Special thanks to Remco de Bekker, Mac Bike, Bob Gibson & Chaz (London Police), Veronique Hoogendoorn, Stock Interiors, Karin Pastoor, Herve Seeuws, Charlotte Vermeulen, Isis van der Wel Join the team! If you have a story to tell or a picture to share, contact us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com and tell us all about it!

letter from the editor

Behind the scenes: Linda Korver, Publisher: ‘50,000 magazines is quite a lot...’

As a kid I used to love bugs. When my classmates were playing football, I would collect ants, spiders and beetles and put them in a little glass box, together with some sand and leaves. But no matter how much effort I would put in to make their house as cosy as possible, after a couple of days they would always die on me.

Wouter Wijtenburg, Publisher: ‘...that’s over 4 million pages!’

Deadline passed 3 days and 30 minutes ago... Oct 1st [18:30]

Finally, (it took me 32 years) I got acquainted with the work of a photographer by the name of Fergus Greer. And guess what? He managed to do what I have been wanting to do all my life; capture a bug and keep its colours just as bright and vivid as being alive. On page 66 you’ll find a sneak preview of his work that’s being exposed at The Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs Gallery in Amsterdam. But let me warn you. Don’t fall in love just yet, because one picture could easily cost you €6000. There goes your holiday budget! On the other hand; you could also just tear-off a page of Amsterdam Magazine and pimp your hotel room with it.

Mathilde Hoekstra - Editor in Chief

spamsterdam

From: Elisa Napoleone Date: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 4:07 PM Subject: Re: Artis free tickets To: Amsterdam Magazine I picked up your magazine today and I would like to know if I can still get free tickets for Artis zoo? I thought the magazine was very interesting and was actually very

Sp@msterdam What you shared with us...

What do you think of Amsterdam Magazine or Amsterdam in general? Do you love it? Loathe it? Admire it? Don’t bottle it up; share your feelings with us (and the rest of the world). Your fearless attitude might be rewarded...

surprised to find that it was only the first issue! It seemed as if it had a long ‘history’ behind it. I found lots of interesting information about Amsterdam. So, well done :)

From: Isabel ydancer Date: Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:41 PM Subject: Spamsterdam To: Amsterdam Magazine Congratulations on the very first edition

From: Sabine Agena Date: Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 10:24 AM Subject: RE: Win 2 Hermitage Tickets To: Amsterdam Magazine Here’s my feedback on the magazine: I enjoyed reading it. In particular I enjoyed the historic insights and little details given such as that the brewers used the water from canals, and information about the wildlife. Then I enjoyed the tourist interviews, with people of varied age and background and their interpretation / impressions of the Dutch. You suggest some places I would not consider visiting but reading about them I am thinking of maybe going e.g. a chic bar. Last, I was not sure why you talked about the gay parade when it is not up in Sep, nor coming soon? (ed., Gay Pride takes place every August – we featured it in our ‘Captured’ section, which takes a look at what happened in the city during the previous month.)

of Amsterdam Magazine! The caption: BEYOND WINDMILLS, WOODEN SHOES AND WEED plus the amazing cover photo caught my attention. The content of Amsterdam Magazine is brilliant - informative and interesting articles; a good dose of humour; very well laid out and lots of beautiful photography! I am a Canadian living in Amsterdam having joined my Amsterdammer husband, Michael, in April 2010. When we learnt about Europe in school, I became particularly interested in Holland - yes, the windmills and wooden shoes ... I don’t recall weed being part of the lesson! The story of Anne Frank impressed me greatly. I was amazed by the pictures of the canals, dykes and architecture of the buildings and streets. Here I am 37 years later, married to the most remarkable Amsterdam treat, surrounded by and immersed in incredible Dutch culture!!! I look forward to future editions of Amsterdam Magazine and wish you every

[win!] Next month we’ll read through all the spam and select one email of the month so get creative with your words, maybe even attach a picture of your stay in amsterdam, or bribe us with bitterballen... Email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com for the chance to win great prices!

Amsterdam

magazine

success!

From: merve şenoymak Date: Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 4:44 PM Subject: free tickets To: Amsterdam Magazine First: Thanks for the very informative magazine. Second: Two Artis tickets would be great for me and my boyfriend!

heads-up

Heads-up; from the city

by eva van wijngaarden

Masterpieces on the move Twelve Dutch group portraits have left Amsterdam for the first time in history. The paintings form part of a permanent exhibition in the Schutters gallery in the Amsterdams Historisch Museum [map E5], which is about to undergo renovation. The military portraits, depicting civic guardsmen, are so large that it has been impractical to move them until now. First they’re off to Vienna where they will appear in the Goldenes Zeitalter exhibition in the city’s Arthistoric Museum; then they will make an appearance at the Alte Pinakothek in Munich, before returning home in spring 2011. Source: AT5

photo: Amsterdam Historisch Museum

art

OV-chipkaart It pays well to not check out with the OV-chipkaart (‘chip card’) on public transport. At least for the Amsterdam transport company GVB. Forgetful travellers net the company a monthly profit of €150,000. But travellers can claim this money back via the GVB website, and many are now doing so. While in May only 6 per cent asked for a refund, over 15 per cent claimed their money back in August. As this number increases, so does the time it takes to get a refund; it no longer takes days, but weeks. A refund applies to all chip cards. Claims have to be filed within two months on the GVB website. Source: Metro

transport

Anne Frank’s Tree around the world

KLM recycles uniform Who knew that KLM burns its old uniforms? That ends now as the company are going to recycle them. A machine cuts the fabric into pieces and unravels the cloth into fibres. These fibres can then be used to make new products. Old uniforms were burned to avoid abuse, for example at the check in. Reusing the textiles produces fabric that is KLM blue in colour. Recycling company Texterium is unravelling the uniforms, and turning them into slippers. Source: NOS

Amsterdam

green

photo: Bas Bogers

Anne Frank wrote in her diary that she could see a chestnut tree from her window. That tree was blown over in August and all that’s left are pieces. The tree is currently in storage in Amsterdam, and its future remains uncertain. The owner will donate a section to the Anne Frank House [map D3] in Amsterdam and another to the Jewish Museum in Berlin. Other Jewish museums across the world may be interested in taking a piece too. The owner would also like to see a sculpture made from the tree trunk in the statue garden of the Kröller Müller museum in Arnhem. Source: AT5

history

magazine photo: Barbara Ennik

heads-up

Dog sniffs out hospital bacteria An unusual discovery Two former water basements, both in excellent condition, have been discovered at Lauriergracht 116. There are many of these basements beneath Amsterdam apartments, but they’re usually smaller and inaccessible. Only the Burgerweeshuis (the old orphanage) and the Maagdenhuis (a former orphanage for Catholic girls) have reservoirs this size. Water basements were used in the 17th century to store water. The building, a former Lutheran orphanage, is currently being restored. Once the work is complete, small businesses will move in. Source: Parool

Patients at the VU Medical Centre might get an unexpected visit from dog Cliff. The beagle is trained to trace the hospital bacteria clostridium difficile. When infected, the microbe causes severe diarrhoea. A nurse noticed a typical smell around infected patients. This gave Yvo Smolders, professor of internal medicine, the idea to use a dog to trace the bacteria. In tests, Cliff identified 90 per cent of patients with the infection. There were two cases where he indicated an infection, but lab results returned negative. Source: ANP photo: VU Medical Centre

medical

economy

Amsterdam hotel chain goes global These are hard times for hotel owners. Due to the crisis many have had to drop their room rates. But Amsterdam hotel chain citizenM is using the crisis as an opportunity. Two new hotels will be built in London before the Olympic Games begin. Two more have been built in the centre of New York, near Times Square and in the Bowery. Since London and New York are the two cities that are recovering fastest from the hotel crisis, the group took the opportunity to expand into the US as well. This was an unexpected move, since the company operates mainly in Europe. Source: Parool

photo: citizenM

2011 at Museumplein

economy

Museumplein [map C9/d9] was the place to watch this year’s World Cup football tournament. And on New Year’s photo: Pieter Vlaardingerbroek Eve it will host the city’s biggest party to welcome in 2011. Bubbles, oliebollen and best wishes are usually shared at Dam Square [map E4], but not this year. It’s easier to keep crowds safe at Museumplein. The area will be enclosed by crush barriers and visitors are likely to be checked to ensure they’re not bringing glass or fireworks. Capacity is another factor. While Dam Square can accommodate around 30,000 party people, Museumplein can hold 200,000. Source: Metro

heads-up

Formula One vs.

photo: Apus Apus

The eastern runway of Schiphol airport was the scene of an unusual spectacle: a race between a Formula One race car and 28,800 Facebook users. While champion Lewis Hamilton completed three laps of the 2.7km runway, each internet user uploaded a file of 1MB from their mobile phone. It was a telephone company stunt to draw attention to their mobile internet upgrade. The network couldn’t keep up with the speed of the race car and lost two out of three rounds. sport Source: AT5

Top runner back in Amsterdam Runners beware – top Kenyan runner Paul Kirui is participating in the Amsterdam Marathon again this year. He won the half marathon world championship in 2004 and finished first in the Amsterdam Marathon in 2008. This event, held on 17 October, starts at the Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam. Kirui isn’t the only champion running; other previous winners such as Chala Dechase and Wilson Chebet will be there too. Spectators can enjoy music and other entertainment along the 42km circuit. The first runners start at 9.45am. Finishing time is 5pm sharp back at the Olympic Stadium.

Chaos It’s hard to miss the sheer volume of bikes around Centraal Station [map F2/g2]. Amsterdammers have been promised a new bike park with space for more than 7,000 bikes. It was supposed to be ready in 2012. But since the construction of the metro line between the north and south of Amsterdam is going to take a little longer than expected (the contractor encountered some problems while digging: houses on Rokin fell apart), building will probably begin in 2013 or 2014.

city

Source: AT5

win

Parking meter fixed after publication

city

A broken parking meter on Jan van Galenstraat was purposely not repaired. According to entrepreneurs in the area, the fines were used to generate extra income. For three months they complained to Cition, the administrator of all the parking meters in Amsterdam, but nothing was done until the story was published in newspaper de Telegraaf. Cition denied the accusation, but repaired the meter immediately after the publication. Since this incident local politicians have become involved. The local Labour Party wants new agreements regarding the reparations of the meters and the handling of the complaints. Source: AT5

Run out of cash? The Amsterdam Tourism and Convention Board (ATCB) will soon be running a competition giving you the chance to win €1,000. Just tell I Amsterdam what you would spend your prize money on (an exciting activity, a big night out, a good cause). The prize will be awarded to the most original entry. You can submit your entry in writing, pictures or film. The competition closes at 12pm on Friday, 12 November. The winner will be notified by Friday, 19 November. You can enter the competition at: 8 www.iamsterdam.com/my1000 Source: AT5

Amsterdam

magazine

sport

Walking the

streets of amsterdam

FEATURED

By Anna Wiarda-Cornelissen

o, this is not the biography

of an Amsterdam prostitute ‘walking the streets’. It’s about taking an aimless stroll through the city’s streets, and observing their multiple functionality.

FEATURED

As we hurry along the street, rushing to our destination, it’s easy to forget about the streets’ second, but not less vital, function as a place for public interaction. Not going anywhere in particular allows you to stop and take a second look at the many ways in which the streets, alleyways, squares and avenues play a part in the lives of the people out there. So who will we run into while walking the streets of Amsterdam? And what do the streets mean to them?

The streets are my stage

Mime artists and living statues find a place to shine in the heart of Amsterdam’s centre. They’ve been on Dam Square for as long as I can remember. Every day their stage awaits the next dazzling performance. Competition can be brutal, so they have to make sure they take their places on time and stay put until the day is over. Ever wondered who the people behind the make-up are? Yes, some of them are junkies or homeless people trying to make enough for the next shot or night at the shelter. These can be recognised by a simple costume, consisting of little more than a sheet. But the

The competition

can be brutal

pros, like the blue, golden or silver man, or the perfect Rembrandt have worked hard to get where they are. Working 40 to 50 hours a week they can earn up to €2000 a month. When passing by, take notice and see if you find their skills worth your money. If you find this form of entertainment a bit monotonous, plan your visit during the last weekend of August. You’ll be able to keep your money in your pocket and yet find entertainment on every corner of the street. The opening of the cultural season is celebrated with an open air festival introducing new performances and exhibitions during the annual Uitmarkt.

Amsterdam

magazine

FEATURED

The streets are my canvas

Our living statues aren’t the only artists out there. Imagine the thrill of an empty canvas. Imagine on top of this, not being limited to a blank piece of paper, but seeing the whole city as your canvas. To most of us these ‘creative expressions’ on public and private property might look more like vandalism. But to the artist it’s art. Like it or not, graffiti belongs to the street. In some cases homeowners’ only protection against unwanted ‘expressions of art’ on their property is graffiti art itself. On the corner of Tuinstraat and the Prinsengracht you can find a perfect example of art’s protection from ‘art’. About a year ago the owners of this large brick wall got tired of the daily battle against amateur graffiti artists. The only solution was to turn to the famous graffiti duo The London Police to fill the wall, and hope for respect from the less famous artists. Local authorities didn’t support the placing of this mural at the time. But I guess they still haven’t found a better way to prevent the streets from being a canvas in the eyes of the graffiti artist.

The streets are my party

A less permanent way to decorate the street is by partying. Amsterdam’s most famous street party occurs on the annual celebration of our Queen’s birthday on April 30, when the whole city seems to be painted in orange, red, white and blue. Everybody pulls out their best orange frock and takes to the streets to celebrate. The Queen’s birthday is actually in January, but as the weather is better in April, our Queen decided to continue celebrating her mother’s birthday instead. I guess this makes our Queen a real party animal too. The city’s gay community also knows how to throw a street party. The Gay Pride festival celebrates happiness, love, solidarity and tolerance during a week of festivities. The weeks’ highlight is definitely the Canal Parade. Don’t be surprised to see the mayor of Amsterdam sailing by in a pink thong at this extreme costume party. But you don’t have to be gay or the Queen to get Amsterdam’s residents out on the street. Making it to the World Cup Football final this summer gave us yet another good reason to pull out the orange frock again and party once more!

> 21

The streets are my museum

Something the local authorities are certainly not complaining about is the fact that the heart of Amsterdam attracts so many tourists. Yet many don’t come to appreciate the historical, physical and cultural significance of our 17th century canal belt. Our numerous coffeeshops and the Red Light District are more likely to serve the interests of the majority. And it’s easy to see why - you won’t find a more vibrant part of town. Day or night there is always somebody walking around; cautiously navigating the alleyways, waiting for a chance to step inside without being seen. But whether you actually try our ladies or prefer to window-shop, you will always enjoy a unique experience.

Photo: ND-Photo.nl (Andy Ramdin)

But, back to the beauty of Amsterdam. Recently the canal belt was awarded World Heritage Status by UNESCO. This was a

hot issue, with many citizens in favour of and many against the

The streets are my playground

crowd. And those against fear the rigid UNESCO regulations

And where did those football heroes learn the game? Exactly! The street is where all young boys hone their skills. Amsterdam, the west and east areas in particular, is proud to have produced quite a few impressive football players such as Johan Cruyff, Frank Rijkaard, Edgar Davids and Patrick Kluivert. After spending their youth in one of the many city playgrounds, such as Betondorp and Balboaplein, they ended up playing at Europe’s largest stadiums including Camp Nou (Barcelona) and San Siro (Milan). But football isn’t the only sport to be learnt out there. Even though our streets aren’t wide and spacious, it doesn’t stop a large number of joggers from running them. In October they can show off their endurance in the Amsterdam Marathon: Less experienced joggers participate in the Dam to Dam run in September. The ultimate street sport, of course, is skateboarding. It has become so common to street life that most authorities place ramps and half-pipes to accommodate young skaters. Unsurprisingly they prefer them to ride the ramps instead of choosing public property to practise their tricks. But it seems the the true street sportsman will always find a new challenge out there. Check out the countless YouTube videos made by ‘freerunners’. The way these guys find their way through the streets is amazing. Any building, bus stop, staircase or wall can assist them in the most impressive backflips. I wonder what authorities can do to assist these athletes in their game. Or would their intervention mean the end of freerunning altogether?

decision. Those in favour hope it will attract a more cultured

Amsterdam

magazine

will immobilise the city’s growth and development into a creative metropolis. But let’s assume this fear is uncalled for and that only good can come from this special status. Which personally I’d say is well earned. No one can deny the beauty of Amsterdam’s canal belt.

The streets are my catwalk As beautiful as the surroundings are, can the same be said about the people? If you have visited

Amsterdam before, its sense of style will probably not be the first thing that comes to mind. But watch out for Amsterdam as the next fashion capital of the world. Since 2004, the Dutch fashion scene comes together in Amsterdam twice a year during the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. One is held in summer, another in winter. Being mentioned amongst cities such as Paris, Milan and New York, Amsterdam is rapidly gaining recognition on an international level. Do the names Viktor & Rolf sound familiar? PR events such as the longest catwalk or the stiletto run, both held in the highly fashionable P.C. Hooftstraat, are fun spinoffs of this growing recognition. And remember the big fuss over the little orange dresses worn by the ‘Bavaria Babes’ during the World Cup in South Africa? All signs of our emerging interest in fashion. If you share this interest don’t leave without doing some serious shopping in the almost hidden De Negen Straatjes (nine little streets) and the aforementioned P.C. Hooftstraat. With a little luck you will remember Amsterdam as your Photo: Marleen Daniels & Marc Deurloo @ Glamour

fashion capital.

amsterdam’s streets

have many different functions

As you can see, Amsterdam’s streets have many different functions. On this walk I found artists, painters, party people, lovers of high (and not so high) culture, sportsmen, fashionistas and the streets most loyal habitants – bicycles. There are plenty more meanings and functions and I hope you will now look out for them during your visit. In conclusion I would like to share my personal favourite function: the street as the home of the individual. A place where you can be exactly who you want to be, no questions asked.

dutchgrub

What others said: Tripadvisor.com Iens.nl

ltmann

By: Dutchgrub

Reliable restaurant reviews by foodies for foodies. This month we visited Altmann, a trendy fusion restaurant and bar by the River Amstel.

Go Out In Style

Altmann is divided into three areas; a bar and lounge in the entrance, the main dining room by the windows facing the Amstel, and a slightly elevated ‘VIP’ area towards the back. The black and white decor is illuminated by a warm, indirect light from many small lamps and candles. Altmann is one of the few places in Amsterdam where you can’t be overdressed. The decor, immaculately dressed waiters and elegant guests provide the perfect backdrop for a stylish dining experience.

Inventive Menu

Like the decor, the menu is trendy, luring fancy diners with a mix of French and Asian cuisine together with the occasional Dutch treat.

Sashimi with hangop, a traditional Dutch clotted yoghurt with lime, and a giant prawn risotto with Thai tom yam sauce caught our eyes, as did the beef tenderloin with kimchi and bitterballen, Dutch meat croquettes, oriental style. We liked the inventive menu, but the food could have done with more flavour. Several dishes were on the bland side, lacking spiciness in particular. You can dine à la carte, opt for the set four course chef’s menu, or go all out with a seven course tasting menu.

Check out www.dutchgrub.com for more reviews.

We usually prefer more character and humour Flawless Service

The Outcome Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior P/Q* ratio

Final Score:

7.3

Round-Up Cuisine: Fusion Neighbourhood: de Pijp Atmosphere: Trendy Price pp: €60 to €100

The service was impeccable. The waiting staff are well dressed and present, with excellent attention to detail. We usually prefer more character and humour but could appreciate the precision and orderliness. Staff members are clearly well trained and were happy to make enquiries with the chef or owner to satisfy these foodies’ inquisitive nature. Credit card payments, online reservation and all other amenities required for a successful formal dinner are available. Altmann Restaurant and Bar won’t disappoint those looking for a quiet, stylish meal put together with care.

Details Open 6pm -12am, closed on Sundays Public Transport: Tram 3, 4, or 25 to Ceintuurbaan / van Woustraat Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes *Price/Quality ratio

Altmann Restaurant and Bar Amsteldijk 25 +31 (0)20 6627777 www.altmann.nl [map 93-g9]

dutch treat

Dutch Treat

Bitterballen You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried herring (raw, with onions) or salty liquorice. But what about the bitterbal? TEXT BY Linda Leonard

hile out at a bar, you may have seen some Dutchies eating mysterious brown balls covered in breadcrumbs. These are bitterballen, a savoury snack containing a mixture of beef, beef broth, butter, flour, parsley, salt and pepper. Traditionally they were eaten together with ‘bittertjes’, a small glass of Dutch Genever (similar to gin), which is how they got their name. Bitterballen are found in the Netherlands, Suriname, the Netherlands Antilles, Belgium, and in some areas of Indonesia. Some 300 million are consumed each year. Put in a single line, they would stretch from Amsterdam to Tokyo! Roman texts already report that people in the Netherlands ate a mixture of leftover ox meat combined with fat and bread while hunting. During the occupation of the Netherlands in the 16th century, the Spanish adopted this recipe and started deep-frying it tapas style. Following these humble beginnings, the modern-day bitterbal is now available in many varieties and flavours, like beef, shrimp and cheese. The best bitterballen are the ones still made traditionally, by van Dobben or Grandma Bob. Have a beer and try some. Don’t forget to dip them in mustard first!

ingredients s Try thi ! at h o m e

instructions ÌÌ Heat one tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat and cook the meat, carrots, and onions until the meat is browned and the carrots are tender. ÌÌ Drain the meat in a colander, then place in a mixing bowl. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, and parsley and stir to combine. Set the meat mixture aside.

4 tbsp butter or margarine 1/2 lb ground beef or veal 1/4 cup carrot, finely diced 1/2 cup onion, finely chopped Salt to taste Fresh ground black pepper to taste A pinch of nutmeg 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped 5 tbsp flour 1 cup beef broth or milk 1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs 1 egg, beaten with 1 tsp water Oil for deep frying

ÌÌ Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over moderate heat and stir in the flour to make a roux. Cook this for 2-3 minutes, then add the beef broth or milk. Continue heating, stirring constantly, until the sauce boils and becomes quite thick. ÌÌ Combine the sauce with the meat mixture, stirring to combine them thoroughly, and chill this mixture for at least two hours in the refrigerator. ÌÌ When the mixture has solidified, roll it into balls about 2.5cm in diameter. Roll the balls in the breadcrumbs, then in the egg and water mixture, then in the breadcrumbs again. Fry a few at a time in a deep fat fryer with at least 5cm of oil at 375F/190C until golden (about 2-3 minutes). Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

100% isis

photo: Ilja Keizer

DJ and producer Isis van der Wel, better known as 100% Isis, has achieved worldwide fame on the international dance scene. After recently being elected as Night Mayor of Amsterdam, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re curious to know what she has in store for us! 28

Amsterdam

magazine

meet the dutch

ey n o m t o n , s lt u s re f o rm fo Payment comes in the by mathilde hoekstra

n February this year Isis van der Wel, 35, was elected Night Mayor of Amsterdam. This was the fourth bi-annual election for the coveted position, in which candidates battle it out to become the official promoter of the city’s nightlife. ‘It happened on the same night that the national government fell. It was a very stormy night,’ she says. Isis decided to run for the position because she felt that somebody needed to represent the creatives of Amsterdam in front of the local government. Especially now, when our capital seems to allow less space for spontaneity and flexibility every day. And what better candidate could there be to restore this space?

Creative goals

Tools

Isis is well known on the Amsterdam nightlife scene. At the age of 26 she started her own booking and management agency Magma. On top of organising events she has her own record label – All is One, that’s trying to bridge the gap between techno, house, ambient and experimental dance music. Meanwhile she has been travelling and meeting creative and inspirational people from all over the world.

Sounds like a tough job that doesn’t necessarily pay the bills. Fortunately Isis makes good money as an international DJ. ‘I run an artists’ agency, I have my own record label and event company, but first and foremost I’m a DJ and producer. I deliberately choose to work in the Netherlands more often now that I’m the Night Mayor of Amsterdam. Obviously this is a job of honour, so payment comes in the form of results, not money.’

t of rules ‘Amsterdam has a lo and little space’

Isis is a busy girl, but when it comes to her candidacy, she’s very modest: ‘I had some serious opponents, but I was lucky to find the jury on my side, praising my plans for the city.’ And so she left other contestants including the Association for Amsterdam Night Culture, DJ Hebcat, the K.I.S.S collective and the night committee DENDEREND! AMSTERDAM! far behind.

This makes me even more curious about those plans and what they entail. ‘Amsterdam has a lot of rules,’ she explains, ‘and little space. We need to leave some space for spontaneity and flexibility. The city has great creative goals. To obtain them we’ll need to ensure that Amsterdam remains attractive to the creative industry. I communicate with local politicians about this on a weekly basis.’

And the best result for Isis would be inspiring people to change their way of thinking. She wants to make them aware that ‘man can perceive life as man creates it.’ Consciousness, sustainability and respect are elements Isis sincerely believes in. ‘I consider them tools to improve our current situation on this planet.’ Big words, especially to those of us who prefer to get unconscious instead. Luckily Isis knows just the right places. ‘During the Amsterdam Dance Event in October the city will be full-on in terms of nightlife. Two clubs are not to be missed: Trouw [map 91-I10] and Paradiso [map 92-D8].’

L’Origine d’Amour a production by TommyzToko.nl

Kimono by Episode Bustier & Corset by Der Kommissar

While you stroll the rainy streets of Amsterdam, searching for the perfect

autumn on the

wardrobe to keep you

warm this season, we book ourselves a lovely little trip to Saint-Tropez to catch the last rays of sunshine. Let winter begin!

Fur jacket – Stylist’s own Necklace by Sparkling Bubbles

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Coat, Bruuns Bazaar, €359 Leather trousers, Turnover, €399.95

Catsuit by MalouSebastiaan Robe top by Laurie de Kok Metal undies by Bibi van der Velden Voile jacket by Laurie de Kok

Playsuit by Tony Marcus Sacharias Necklace by Sparkling Bubbles

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Trousers by Mada van Gaans Lace top by Individuals Pumps by River Island Ring by Swarovski

Catsuit by Marloes Blaas Feather necklace by River Island Pumps by EnD by Eva and Delia Bracelet by Bibi van der Velden

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, l amour toujours Photography: Laura Andalou

Hair & Make-up: Tommy Hagen @ House of Orange Styling: Eline Bochem & Sjoerd van Hemert Model: Marieke Spanjaard

getting around

VOLENDAM HARBOUR

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getting around

The search for authenticitY VOLENDAM & marken

By: Mike Peek

If you’re a fan of wooden shoes and traditional Dutch costume, you’ll love Volendam instantly. If not, it might take a little more effort. We show you how!

very year, about a million tourists visit this famous fishing village. People from all over the world come to stroll along the dyke, browse the souvenir shops and have their picture taken in fishermen’s (or women’s) clothing. Sounds tacky? It is. But you don’t have to sacrifice your dignity to appreciate Volendam. The trick is to get there early.

Crash in the harbour

Doolhof is a lovely place to walk around for a bit and admire the architecture, but to understand what this area was like decades ago, I visit the Volendams Museum. Here you can learn everything about the local history, and the clothing, and see a few reconstructed interiors from times long gone. The most informative, however, is probably the documentary that is showing in the small cinema. It’s only in Dutch, but the black and white images from the early 20th century are very powerful and give you a better feel for Volendam’s history than any dress on display.

You don’t have to sacrifice your dignity to appreciate Volendam

At nine in the morning, I have the place basically to myself. Restaurant owners are cleaning their windows while villagers go shopping at the local mall. In jeans. Don’t kid yourself – the garb is really just for tourists these days. And the tourists haven’t arrived yet. Now is therefore an excellent time to visit Doolhof (‘Maze’), the oldest part of Volendam. Centuries ago, tiny wooden cottages were built behind the dyke with no discernable street plan, hence the name, to house families with up to ten children. They are so small that often only the wife and daughters slept there. The man and sons usually crashed on their boat in the harbour. On this beautiful September morning, all is quiet in the narrow and well-kept streets. A spider has been allowed to spin a huge web between two houses that are built ridiculously close together. He has an impressive collection of wasps and flies, but doesn’t seem very interested in eating them just yet.

30 minute boat ride

I get back to the harbour around noon and the tourist machine is now in full swing. It’s time to flee; across the water. The ‘Marken-Express’ takes me to, indeed, Marken, a former island that was connected to the mainland back in 1957. The 30-minute boat ride is still the easiest and nicest way to get there. Marken is similar to Volendam, only a bit smaller and quieter. Many people leave their front doors open and the atmosphere is so relaxed that no one would even consider disturbing their peace. The only sounds I hear are the waves gently rolling against the shore and cats begging for food or a belly rub. But even they keep their pleas civilised. Inland, I discover a lovely little church and I’m lucky enough to catch a choir practice. I sit down next to a lady in full costume, knitting. Apparently, >

getting around

> there are still people here who dress up. Not because of the tourists, but because they want to.

Underground parties Back in Volendam, there is no escape. I give in and buy some eel. In 1932 the ‘Zuiderzee’ was closed off by a huge dyke to prevent Holland from flooding. When the salt water disappeared, so did most of the fish, which put a lot of fishermen out of a job. The eel here is still caught locally though and it tastes heavenly as I stare across the lake that used to be a sea. Just as I’m about to leave, some local teens decide to throw a little street party. A guy in a bee costume leads the parade, singing ‘Heb je even voor mij?’ (‘Do you have a little time for me?’) by Dutch artist Frans Bauer, who’s not even from Volendam. A bunch of guys and girls follow him, a beer in one hand, cigarette in the other. As they approach the dyke, a Japanese man keeps pace. He looks almost frightened for a second before he starts smiling and clapping his hands. His wife gets out her camera to immortalise the moment. And right she is. This might just be the most authentic Dutch tradition she has seen all day.

A 3

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getting around

How to get there Various touring companies offer excursions to Volendam. They will show you the main sights, tell you about its history and maybe even make you wear a costume. Great if that’s what you’re after; but for a little more freedom it’s wise to go on your own. Buses (110, 116 and 118) depart to Volendam regularly from the back of Centraal Station. The trip takes about 30 minutes. For timetables, check: www.arriva.nl/ reizen/vertrektijden/ or call 09002022022 (10 cents per minute). You can buy a ‘Waterland ticket’ from the driver for €7.50. It’s valid all day and also entitles you to go to nearby Monnickendam and Edam (famous for its cheese). The local tourist centre can provide a free map and information about the sights. Its website, www.vvv-volendam.nl/nl/route/ can help you plan your visit.

5 66

1. Doolhof 2. House in Marken 3. Farm in Marken 4. Church in Volendam 5. House in Marken 6. Volendam Harbour 7. Volendam Harbour 8. Volendam Harbour

word on the street

s t a e r t h c t Du

Word on the street When it comes to food, Holland is â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not famous for it ll, haute cuisine. Sti f there are plenty o h Dutch treats wort m trying. Amsterda Magazine takes a s group of Londoner on a tasting tour. oeven

By Marieke Verh

Meet our test panel

Patrick (22)

works in Finance

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Joe (23)

works in Finance

Adrian (22)

works in Mortgages

Gerry (23) builder

Mark (22)

works in Business/ Finance

First stop: Raw herring Fish stand, Nieuwmarkt

Raw herring is a typical Dutch treat. It’s normally enjoyed at lunchtime (or as a snack) and accompanied by raw onion. The test panel is hesitant; Adrian and Mark point-blank refuse. ‘It’s 11am, I’m not eating raw fish!’ Patrick is brave enough to perform the task. He takes a big bite of the herring dangling above his mouth. ‘It’s not too unpleasant actually. I expected it to taste worse.’ Gerry is up next. ‘Can’t we grill it first? That’s what I would do.’ After some persuasion, he surrenders. ‘It tastes like soft jelly. I still would have preferred it grilled.’ Up last, Joe is not bursting with enthusiasm either. ‘It’s pretty bad. And the strong taste stays in your mouth.’ Final verdict? ‘The Dutch are a strange nation for voluntarily eating raw herring.’

Second stop: dutch cheese Arxhoek Kaaswinkel Damstraat 17-19

Holland is famous for its cheese. From New York to Tokyo, ‘Gouda’ cheese is popular around the world. But there are many more typical Dutch cheeses. The cheese store’s owner prepares a platter of young farmer’s cheese, farmer’s goat cheese and ‘Leidsche’ – cheese with cumin seed. Adrian, dressed in baggy sweatpants and wearing dark sunglasses, tries to look serious holding the platter. The rest burst into laughter. Gerry: ‘This could be a great ad campaign. “Dutch cheese goes hip hop!”’ Everyone is particularly enthusiastic about the young farmer’s cheese. Patrick: ‘This one is great, really mild. The hairy one (referring to the cheese with cumin seed, ed.) is not too bad either, in small portions that is. But I can’t imagine an occasion where I would ever pull out the goats’ cheese.’

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Last stop: Genever Wijnand Fockink Pijlsteeg 31

Dutch beers – the so-called pale lagers – are distributed globally. Another traditional drink, genever, is less well known. Distillery and tasting room Wijnand Fockink has been around since 1679 and still makes some of the best genevers and liqueurs in town. The panel is excited about this tasting stop. Joe: ‘We’re British, we like our alcohol in the early afternoon!’

Conclusion: We’ll leave the herring and goats’ cheese to the Dutch!’

The distiller serves the genever in small glasses, filled all the way to the top. ‘This way you are forced to bend over for your first sip. It’s like taking a bow for the waiter’, he tells the panel that is already leaning forwards. ‘It tastes like gin’, Adrian comments. ‘That’s correct, gin evolved from genever’, the distiller explains. Mark: ‘It is strong, but goes down pretty smoothly.’ The glasses are empty in no time. ‘Well, we definitely fit the British stereotype: only mild flavours’, Patrick concludes. ‘We’ll leave the herring and goats’ cheese to the Dutch!’

pimp my bike

Tamara Breijder, 28 Fashion Student

BY: Wieke Braat

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out!

amara Breijder, 28, is a fashion student who moved to Amsterdam six months ago. She has already discovered that the city’s streets are far from crime-free: ‘My bike has been stolen five times. I’m done with thieving!’ So she bought herself a brand new bike at De Fietsfabriek and asked Amsterdam Magazine to pimp it in such a unique way that no one would even consider stealing it again.

Thieving in Amsterdam

There are around 590,000 bikes in Amsterdam. With a population of 767,000 this is quite a lot! Bear in mind that sadly many of our steel friends lie unused on canal beds, deserted in lonely places, or stashed in one of the government depots after being badly parked. So we can only guess at how many bikes have a caring owner. Every year 50,000 bikes are stolen in the city. By night the Grimburgwal and the Koningsplein become bike shops, where junkies, professional thieves and drunks put their stolen goods on the market. Vendors whispering ‘Fiets te koop’ (‘bike for sale’) create a menacing atmosphere. Nevertheless a lot of locals use their services. A bike here costs around €25. But beware, if an undercover policeman catches you, you’ll receive a €200 fine, and your ‘bargain’ bike will suddenly become very expensive indeed. If you ask a seller beforehand ‘are you a policeman?’ he is supposed to tell you the truth. But still, it’s a risky business and above all: it’s illegal.

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‘I want a bike tha will stE t no one al’ If you discover that your bike has gone, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s been stolen. Sometimes the government needs the space and removes them. Your bike is then transported to an AFAC depot. If your bike has magically disappeared during your absence, along with all the other bikes that were in the area, it’s likely you are a victim of the governmental need to keep the city clean. Check 8 www.amsterdam.nl/verkeer_vervoer/fiets/ fietsdepot for further information. >

pimp my bike

Eva Bart

els “The Pimpin g Artist” 47

pimp my bike

The pimping doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go unnoticed

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pimp my bike

Menschlein

Glue and glitter seems like a tricky combination to me, so I watch anxiously as Eva gets to work. Within a moment her hands are all sticky, but unfortunately the bike isn’t. ‘Shit, this doesn’t work,’ she mumbles. Eva has been painting ever since she was a child. Her work is about women who are beautiful and sexy, with a sense of tragedy. Sometimes in her glittery world of imaginary burlesque ladies, I read a sentence or a single word, sometimes in German but mostly French. ‘It’s because I like Paris!’ she says. Maybe that’s why her ladies remind me of the Moulin Rouge.

In one of her paintings I discover the word menschlein (translation: a warm person). ‘A Berlin rocker called me that,’ she explains. ‘Apparently I seemed like a warm person to him. That night felt like being on a trip without doing drugs, and I decided to spend some more time in that fabulous city.’ When living in a Berlin suburb, her favourite mode of transport was the bicycle. ‘It’s a perfect way to get to know the city. I felt surrounded by her sound, her rhythm and her people.’

Ma bicyclette fabuleuse

We are sitting in front of her studio, where Eva’s pimping action doesn’t go unnoticed. While she sticks the glitter on, people stop to tell her how inspiring she is. But the glue still won’t stick, so we decide to leave it overnight. The next day Eva finishes the job, adding: J’adore ma bicyclette fabuleuse. I hope Tamara will agree. She is delighted. ‘Wow! It’s a bit of a hip hop bike with all the gold. Really pimped!’ Then, pointing to the logo on the chain guard, she asks whether Eva Bartels is a nice person. ‘Yes’, I confirm, ‘of course she is.’ And so Tamara happily cycles away on her brand new fashion accessory. The bike glitters in the morning light like a big piece of jewellery. All a girl wants.

Like Tamara, you can buy a brand new bike at De Fietsfabriek. With Amsterdam Magazine you’ll get a 10% discount (bring along the coupon). Not only are these bikes durable (essential in a country where it’s raining most of the year), but most importantly: you can put your own name or ID-number on it. This will make your bike a lot less interesting for both thieves and buyers. Would you like to have it pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdammagazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

Bring this voucher and get 10% off on a bike from De Fietsfabriek (Only at Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 12 & Sarphatistraat 141). Valid until February 1 2011. Conditions apply.

> On a sunny Saturday afternoon sexy Eva arrives in hot pants (ten minutes late) on her old Peugeot bike – très fashionable. While she’s talking about her exhibitions and other gigs, she lays her shiny pimping gear out on the table. She’s brought glitter, feathers and nail polish; not your average bike painting material. ‘I’ve decided to do something completely different!’ she smiles. Personally I liked her fashionable style with hot babes and fluffy statements, so I wonder if she is going through a period of transformation. ‘I need space on my canvas,’ she says. ‘And since there’s no space to be found here today I won’t do anything “painty”, but “pimpy”!’

us e

Ru le s

the guide

Are you ready for your weekend of debauchery, culture, drunkenness, or whatever you have planned? Here are some Amsterdam house rules to ensure you have the time of your life!

Do’s and Don’ts

By Helen Worswick and Daniel Read

Transport & Cycling Amsterdam is a small city compared to many but, for a small city, it offers a multitude of ways for you to get around. Tram, train, metro, bus, taxi and, of course, the ubiquitous bicycle – the chosen chariot of the local.

DOn’t

DD Get to grips with the complexities of the city’s tram system.

Put simply, it will get you everywhere, from the hustle and bustle of the city centre to the far flung corners of the suburbs, full of interesting sights and sounds.

DD Get a GVB card for the duration of your journey. All of the

inner city public transport systems, except the train, use this touch-in/touch-out card system. Getting a card for the duration of your stay makes it simpler and cheaper than getting a ticket every time.

DD Rent a bike! There a numerous places in the centre of the city for you to rent a bike, generally charged by the day. It truly is the best way to see Amsterdam and, in such a crowded city, it allows you to get around quickly and easily, just like the natives. Make sure you lock your bike up safely with two locks. To say that they are known to go missing would be an understatement.

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UU Get ripped off by taxi drivers. You will see taxis speeding around the city, at any time of day or night, and this is a useful way to get back to your hotel after a late one. Be aware the fee for a taxi in the city is €7.50 for the first 2km and €2.20 for every kilometre thereafter. (For a full breakdown of Amsterdam prices see What does it cost? on page 70.) UU Rent a bike and think you are invincible. Use the bike lanes, marked by red tarmac on the right hand side of the roads. There are many other road users that are far less vulnerable than a tourist on a bike. Trams, cars and motorbikes – give them all right of way and keep your wits about you at all times. An extra little word of advice is to be careful with the tram tracks, don’t let your wheels get caught in them, many a nasty accident has occurred this way.

the guide

Smoking – Tobacco and Cannabis As we all know, smoking cannabis is legal in the Netherlands and Amsterdam has the pleasure of being known as the weed capital of the world.

DO DD Visit a coffeeshop. To clarify, the estab-

lishments you visit to smoke cannabis are called coffeeshops and the places to go for a coffee are known as cafés. While you may not smoke weed, we recommend that you at least poke your head round the door of one of these establishments to see what is truly part of the Amsterdam culture and experience.

DD Stock up on duty free cigarettes on your

way home. The Netherlands has quite a smoking culture and the cigarettes here are cheaper than quite a few other European countries (not always of course, so check the prices).

DOn’t UU Smoke too much weed! See our Smoker’s Guide on page 72 for some vital health and safety advice on the best way to keep your head straight. UU Smoke tobacco inside. Like much of Europe, Amsterdam and the Netherlands as a whole has a smoking ban in any public building. Many city residents smoke and you will see people congregating outside of bars and restaurants. Join them; strike up a conversation as well as the match to light your cigarette and enjoy the scenery while you enjoy your smoke. Confusingly, as a city of significant contrast, some establishments allow you to smoke a pure joint inside their premises.

Red Light District You can’t be visiting Amsterdam without being aware of the popularity of what is known as the ‘oldest industry in the world’. Yes, prostitution is legal and these tax paying ladies of the night and the region in which they work is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city.

DO DD Visit the Red Light District. Whether you’re a group of lads looking for a laugh or an older couple looking for a slice of culture in Amsterdam, this district is a must-see. The Red Light District is a part of the city’s rich history and, without sounding ridiculous, is populated with wonderful architecture and numerous amusing sights. The district has shrunk in recent years as the city attempts to cut down on crime and exploitation in this area. But this has made way for a variety of creative venues and cutting-edge entrepreneurs.

DD Secure a service level agreement. If you

DOn’t UU Take photos. It is not permitted to take photos of the people in the windows. UU Be rude; ensure that you are polite and courteous at all times. The people are professionals and this is their job. Be aware the workers are well protected, so don’t step out of line. UU Be careless with your bag or purse – it’s a notorious pick pocketing hotspot.

choose to frequent one of the windows of these infamous ladies ensure that you agree a price for the service desired before beginning proceedings.

import / export

Skin meets Boney M.

tools of the trade

very issue we interview people that are successful in their work, in Holland or abroad. Skunk Anansieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ultimate rock chick Skin (import) meets Boney M. glitter hero Bobby Farrell (export) > By Karen Loughrey and Mathilde Hoekstra

import / export

What’s your touring schedule like? Touring is the way that bands make their money now, but it’s also a way you can ruin a band. You can ruin your love of what you do. We’re taking nice big gaps between tours and not just being touring monkeys like we were in the nineties.

Did you find that difficult at the time? Touring is repetition, it’s great when it’s new, as you’re getting better and better, but once it’s up and running, it’s just repetition. It can get a bit boring, and our style of touring can be quite hard going.

It’s not your first time in Amsterdam, what do you think of the city?

Skin

Deborah “Skin’ Dyer (40) 8 www.skunkanansie.net

Who are your heroes? I’m not really into heroes. I like people who are inspiring, but everyone I like has a naughty/bad side, so I don’t necessarily see them as heroes. I absolutely love Grace Jones, and I like Blondie. Angela Davis too, and Maya Angelou – they’re both very important.

What is your favourite book? Right now I’m reading Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, it’s about being on the road as a musician, and something that I can really relate to.

How does your new album, Wonderlustre, differ to previous Skunk Anansie albums? It’s quite different. It’s a very contemporary album, less meandering and less ‘shouty’. It’s an album of melody and interesting lyrics, and it’s slightly dark. Whereas in the nineties we were quite angry and angst ridden, we have darkness but we’re more confident now that we’ve grown up a bit. We’ve tried to instill that wisdom in our songs. We wrote the whole album sitting in our rehearsal room, which we’ve never done before. We spent two months like that, just writing.

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Many big British acts play Amsterdam. Why do you think the Dutch have to import bands like Skunk Anansie? We’re very much a European band in every sense of the word. Culturally, the British are very good at music; we’re quite ingenious, and we try different things with different types of people. I think that’s welcomed. On the flip side, the British are obsessed with youth, and new young bands. If you’re a band in England, you’ve got to get out of England and be successful as quickly as possible to maintain a career. Holland is incredibly loyal. If you produce good music people are going to support you, they’re not going to not support you because you’re not new. That’s the liberal attitude though and I think that’s why British music does well here.

What’s playing on your iPod right now? I quite like the Foals, and I’ve been listening to Wonderlustre a lot actually. I’ve never listened to a Skunk Anansie album as much as I’ve listened to Wonderlustre. Normally when we’ve done it, I’m over it. I don’t mind playing it live but I don’t listen to the record. But it’s a really easy album to just put on and leave on. I sing along and almost forget it’s ours!

What do you think of Boney M.? I hate it! I hate it! I hate it! The minute you mention the name I’m like ‘fucking hell’! We laughed at Boney M. My mum used to see Boney M. on Top of the Pops and just laugh! (ed., two other members of the band chimed in here to disagree with Skin - they loved Boney M.).

What other projects are you working on at the moment? I have a house in Ibiza, which is its own project. I’ve also got two musical projects. One is with a DJ friend of mine called The People. And one is an ecological project, called Tree Sap. It’s a project where I use the least amount of resources possible. I’m doing everything myself; the demos, recording, writing, the artwork, videos. It’s going to take ages. Years.

photos skin courtesy of v2 records

Import 3

I like the liberal attitude. The people in Amsterdam are very warm people; they’re very open, and I like that. It’s a very culturally open and mixed city, and we’re a very multicultural band so that works really well for us.

import / export

Why don’t you make a comeback with the whole band? There’s no Boney M. as a whole. There are several Boney M.’s. And what’s wrong with that? People from all over the world love the stories we tell, whether I tell them, or somebody else does. My former producer Frank Farian published a Daddy Cool musical in London and he released a movie about Boney M. in Berlin. The reviews weren’t very good, I heard. Honestly I couldn’t say; I wasn’t invited! We’ve had our arguments in the past. But nobody messes with me. I’m originally Caribbean, you know? I moved to Holland at the age of seventeen.

export 4

Bobby Farrell

Roberto “Bobby” Alfonso Farrell (61) 8 www.bobbyfarrell.com

Who are your heroes? James Brown, Elvis Presley. I absolutely love their music.

What is your favourite book? I don’t read books. Not even comics.

In the 90s there was a Boney M. revival. What happened after that? Together with one of the ladies from Mai Tai (ed., another famous Dutch band in the seventies) I’m working on a new record. I can’t tell you the title yet, since we’re still negotiating with the record company. But I can tell you this: next year it’s Boney M.’s 35th anniversary. What better occasion for a comeback? I expect the album to be released around February/March 2011.

How will your new album differ to previous Boney M. albums? It won’t, really. We’ll still do songs like Daddy Cool, Ma Baker and Rivers of Babylon. But we’ll pimp it up a little. Otherwise it’s outdated.

Will you sing? Back in the day we used to have a band of eighteen people. Obviously I could mime easily without anybody noticing. Now it’s only the four of us. So, yes, I will have to do my part.

Which Boney M. members do you still speak to? Maizie Williams and Marcia Barrett have become surrogate mothers to me. They’re Caribbean too. They ask stuff like: ‘Do you eat well, do you get enough sleep?’ I adore them.

What made Boney M. so unique that it went international? I have no clue. You should ask that to the world. Of course we do have a unique sound, don’t we? It’s a sound that nobody else produces anywhere. Maybe that’s why next month I’ve been invited to go to New York. There I’ll be getting a Golden Diamond Award. And I’ll sing Daddy Cool. After that I’ll go to Columbia, Mexico, the Dominican Republic and Russia.

What will be playing on your iPod while travelling? Nothing. I don’t have an iPod. I prefer to listen to the radio. Or I put Marvin Gaye and James Brown on. Did I mention that I love their sound?

What do you think of Skin/Skunk Anansie? I like Skunk Anansie. I’ve met them once, you know? A very nice girl, this...what’s her name, Skin? Friendly and a fine artist too. My daughter told me they were doing a concert in Amsterdam. I couldn’t go. I was doing a show in Georgia, Russia.

What other projects are you working on at the moment? I’m working on a comeback and a solo album. Isn’t that enough? (ed., laughs). But I would love to have my own fashion label. I think there’s a nice market in glittery suits yet to be discovered. Unfortunately there’s only so much you can do in a day. Here everybody seems to think that I’m sitting home alone all day, doing nothing.

The guide

Wat kost dat? (WHAT DOES IT COST?)

‘Wat Kost Dat?’ or ‘What does it cost?’ is a favourite Dutch saying. Yes, the Dutch are notoriously suspicious when it comes to parting with their cash, and you should be too! Visiting Amsterdam is expensive enough as it is, so we’ve compiled this list so you can be sure you’re paying the same as the locals.

THIS IS WHAT IT ‘KOST’ TO ENJOY AMSTERDAM Average price of:

a Heineken beer: €2.30 a glass of red/white wine: €3.50 a pack of Marlboro cigarettes: €4.60 using a toilet inside a bar or restaurant: €0.50 a litre of gasoline: €1.53 one hour parking in the city centre: €5 a night in a three-star hotel: €98 a night in a hostel bed/dorm: €33.50 a Dutch kroket: €1.40 a pre-rolled joint: between €2.50 and €4 a BJ + intercourse: €50 a taxi ride (2km): €7.50 (basic start-up fee) a meal in a restaurant: €29.50 bike rental per day: €10.50 a museum entrance ticket: €14.30 a 24-hour public transport ticket: €7 a canal boat tour: €10.50

Fines:

peeing in the street: €60 being five minutes late back to your car: €60 not having a valid transport ticket: €35 + the original fare

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am5terdam in numb3rs Global Village

743,027: Inhabitants in central Amsterdam 1,514,050: Inhabitants in greater Amsterdam 177: Nationalities represented by residents

Tourist Destination

15,749,000: Annual visitors 37,763: Hotel beds 5: Camping sites

Stunning Structures

6,800: 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century buildings 654: Gable stones 1: Royal Palace 302: Statues and sculptures 6: Windmills

Cultural, Musical Mecca

51: Museums 141: Art galleries 16,000: Concerts and theatrical performances (annual) 55: Theatres and concert halls 9: Carillons 42: Historical church organs

Urban Garden

600,000: Bulb flowers in parks and public gardens 28: Parks

City on Water

165: Canals 1,281: Bridges 8: Wooden drawbridges 2,500: Houseboats

Shopping Capital

21: Markets 6,179: Shops and stores 165: Antique shops 24: Diamond polishing factories

Ride and Glide

600,000: Bicycles 232: Trams 110: Glass-topped canal boats 9: Ferries

Eat, Drink, Dance

1,215: CafĂŠs and bars 1,250: Restaurants 36: Dance clubs

Statistics (2006) provided by Amsterdam Tourism and Convention Board.

golden key

Are four or five star hotels a little beyond your budget? Don’t worry – here’s some five star advice from a top Amsterdam concierge. BY: rosanne prakke

Where should I go if I want to impress my friends back home? Visit the exclusive club Jimmy Woo, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 [map 95-D5]. Other clubs lack Jimmy’s exclusivity. I know the right people there and can get you on the list and arrange a VIP-table. The club was recently renovated and reopened in September.

Last time I was in Amsterdam I rented a bike. What’s the alternative? We have electric scooters for rent. Drive to De Negen Straatjes (the nine little streets) and the Jordaan. Lovely area with small streets, great restaurants and nice boutiques like LouLou, Huidenstraat 30 [map 42-D7].

I want to propose. Where’s the best place to ‘pop the question’? Go to the Stopera [map G6] before sunset. Here you can see the bridges over the River Amstel, a beautiful sight. I once suggested this to one of our clients. He hung a banner over the Magere Brug (skinny bridge) [G7] that said: ‘Will you marry me?’ She was blown away.

Help! I need a good hairdresser! Red’z, Rusland 9 [map 96-f5], is the place to go. This hairdresser is great and next to our hotel. You can make an appointment seven days a week. I have never heard a bad review.

I’m in the mood for Italian. Any suggestions? Radisson Blue Hotel**** Rusland 17 +31 (0) 20 6231231 www.radissonblu.nl/hotel-amsterdam [map 49-f5]

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For a really nice experience, go to Incanto, Amstel 2 [map 97-F6] on the 3rd floor. Here you’ll find a real, authentic Italian kitchen. Don’t ask for pizza (they don’t serve it) but go for lobster or steak.

Where are the locals at? If you want to try a typical Amsterdam club, go to Jantje’s Verjaardag, Reguliersdwarsstraat 108 [map 98-f6] You’ll either love it or hate it, but you will definitely be surprised by it.

We have two kids aged six and eight, with a short attention span. Where should we go? For kids up to the age of 12, there’s the TunFun Playground, Mr. Visserplein 7 [map 39g6]. Here your kids can play soccer and jump around. There’s fresh coffee and a reading table, giving you the perfect opportunity to relax.

golden key

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Enjoy your stayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Each month Amsterdam Magazine interviews a hotel concierge associated with Les Clefs d'Or.

es Clefs d'Or members have dedicated many years of hard work and training to the concierge profession. They know their cities inside out, and are able to advise guests on restaurants, nightlife, sporting and theatre events, sightseeing tours, shopping and more. They can direct guests to any location, any product, at any time of day or night. Les Clefs d'Or concierges are motivated by a genuine desire to serve. Whether requesting something simple or complex, you can be sure they are a trusted resource to business travellers and tourists alike. Always keeping guests' safety, enjoyment and satisfaction in mind.

Edi Zilic Concierge at Radisson Blu Hotel for 20 years Advises around 20,000 guests per year

More information about the organisation Les Clefs d'Or can be found online at: www.hotelconcierge.nl.

knock knock

Knock knock This is how Amsterdam lives

What does a house in Amsterdam look like on the inside? Karin P. shows us around her canal house! By Mathilde Hoekstra | Photography: Wieke Braat

Karin P. lives on the Herengracht, right in the city centre, together with her husband Rob and their two children Pien and Moos. Before moving here in 1997, they lived on the Brouwersgracht. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;We slept in the same room and there was no garden.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; So when Rob was looking for an office, he found this place and instantly fell in love with it. At the time it was completely bare, but the light fall was amazing. And it had the perfect wall on which to hang their painting of Toon (ed., their oldest son who died of a rare disease). The decision was made. >

Amsterdam

magazine

knock knock

Traditional The 160m2 property is divided into two sections, a so-called voorhuis (front part, right behind the façade) and achterhuis (back part that looks out onto the garden). At the time the family bought the apartment for little less than 500,000 Dutch gilders. That’s about €227,000. With current selling prices in the city centre varying between €5000 to €6000 per square metre, that’s not a bad investment! Obviously they still had to reconstruct everything: there was no kitchen, no toilet and nowhere to sleep. Now there are three bedrooms and two bathrooms; there’s an open kitchen, a corridor and a very wide living room. ‘This is the best room of the house.’

I love how nothing really fits together

Second best would be Karin’s bedroom where she and her husband both sleep and shower. Right behind their bed there’s a big wall that divides the room in two. It’s open on both sides and it hides a closet inside. Right behind it you’ll find the modern looking grey bathroom. An interesting choice, since the house itself is rather traditional, but not to Karin: ‘I just love how nothing really fits together.’

Pink beams The architect advised her to build the wall right up to the ceiling, to create more optical space, but Karin wouldn’t listen. ‘I have my own ideas. For that reason we brought the original wooden beams back in, and painted them pink. That colour gave our architect a headache. But we love it. Like these curtains. They’re specially made by a company called Stock Interiors. Don’t you think they’re kinky? They’re made of latex!’ Outside that room there’s another eye catcher. Where there used to be a rooftop, six huge plates of thick glass now form a patio. ‘They had to be lifted over the building,’ Karin says while showing us the pictures. The restoration took three months and cost a lot of money, but the result is amazing and well worth the investment. Especially since it’s unlikely that Karin and her husband will ever sell the house. ‘We have enough space to live in, a parking license and a boat close by. As soon as there is a little sun, we sit on the stairs right in front of our house and watch the boats pass by.’

urban jungle

Urban jungle An Artis Update

In every issue we take an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at Artis Royal Zoo. This month: a tapir is born! By: Charlotte Vermeulen

3 2010

tember 1 am, Sep

It’s lunchtime and people are anxious to meet young tapir Nakal. She’s one week old and it’s her first time out. The door has been open for a while, but there’s no sign of her yet. Wait . . . is that her little snout moving up and down? It looks as if she’s trying to taste the air. Suddenly she appears, instantly bounding around the enclosure with her mother Aya following closely behind.

Amsterd

Aya has darker fur with a different pattern to that of her calf. This is because tapirs hide in the water if they find themselves in danger. Since Nakal’s fur isn’t waterproof yet, she is brown with white stripes and spots – the perfect camouflage.

Shriek When tapirs are excited they shriek. Actually they do so continuously. Their eyesight isn’t very good so they live in a world of sound and smell; shrieking is the most common way for both young and adult tapirs to communicate. Nakal, Aya’s third calf, was born on September 4. A few days before labour the level of pregnancy hormones in Aya’s bloodstream dropped. This is a sign that the birth is imminent. In the blink of an eye Nakal was born. Nakal means ‘naughty’ in Malaysian. A fitting name, since Nakal was always hiding behind her mother’s intestines when the doctor tried to take an ultrasound.

Amsterdam

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Primitive loner The Malaysian tapir is a mammal that lives in the rainforests of South America and South East Asia. They eat plants, which they pull out of the ground with their snouts. Their big skull, small brain, long snout and pointy teeth remind us that the tapir is a somewhat primitive animal.

There are only 2500 tapirs left worldwide Because of the animal’s size and impressive body structure, tapirs only have two natural enemies: tigers and human beings. Still they are becoming extinct. There are less then 2500 tapirs left worldwide, and around 300 of them live in zoos. For this reason, a European breeding programme has been established, in which Artis Royal Zoo plays an essential role. Tapirs are solitary creatures, except when the female is ready for mating and maternity. Dick and Aya, the Malaysian tapirs that live in Artis, are an exception. They have been a couple since 2004. And watching baby Nakal shrieking and running around, that’s clearly working out just fine!

Artis Royal Zoo Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 0900 2784796 (€0.25 per minute) www.artis.nl [map I6]

urban jungle

Did you know that... Artis Royal Zoo’s full name is Natura Artis Magistra. This means: ‘nature is the teacher of both art and science’. Artis is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands. It was founded in 1838. Artis Royal Zoo has many beautiful 19th century buildings, such as the Aquarium. Artis Royal Zoo is not only a zoo but also a park. Here you’ll find the oldest tree in Amsterdam: a 275-year-old oak. At the Artis Aquarium you can take a peek below the surface of an Amsterdam canal and see what fish species are living there. There are over 700 different species of animals and 200 different tree species in Artis Royal Zoo. Artis Royal Zoo is right in the city centre.

expo

Amsterdam

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expo

Fergus Greer, the former assistant to world famous photographers Richard Avedon and Terence Donovan, has worked for numerous leading magazines including GQ, The New York Times and Vanity Fair. His art has appeared in galleries all over the world. Now you can see his work at the Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs gallery in Amsterdam.

expo

These portraits of performance artist Leigh Bowery were taken by Fergus Greer between 1988 and 1994. Bowery (19611994) was a huge influence upon artists and fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. With his unique style Bowery examines the boundaries of figure and clothing, beautiful and ugly, man and woman.

Amsterdam

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expo

The latest series by Greer is called â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Butterfliesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and illustrates how wonderfully the subject of transformation suits him.

Amsterdam

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expo

Eduard Planting Fine Art Photographs Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2L [Map 99-C4/D4] +31 (0)20 3206705 www.eduardplanting.com When: September 25 to November 6 Open: Wed-Sat, 1pm-6pm, and by appointment

MUSEUM CHECK

museum check

Van Gogh Museum

By Martina Danelaite

The Van Gogh Museum on Museumplein houses the largest Van Gogh collection in the world. It’s home to 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 700 letters, and takes you on a fascinating journey through the Dutch artist’s short life and works. Inside the modern, airy buildings, the past and the present coexist harmoniously. The museum actually comprises two buildings: the main structure, which was built in 1973, and the exhibition wing, which was added in 1999. The museum’s impressive permanent collection, housed in the four-floor main building, charts the emergence and development of Van Gogh’s distinct style by organising his work chronologically into five distinct periods: Early Work, Paris, Arles, Saint Rémy and Auvers. His work is exhibited alongside that of his 19th century impressionist and post-impressionist contemporaries, including Gaugin, Monet and Rodin. This provides the unique opportunity for comparison as well as offering an insight into the art and artists who influenced, or were influenced, by his work. There’s plenty to discover at the Van Gogh Museum. Many visitors arrive with a basic knowledge of Van Gogh’s famous works, and the fact that he was missing an ear, but few know that all of his work was accomplished in an incredibly short period of time – just ten years. Also intriguing is the fact that during most of his creative period the artist was suffering from a particular form of epilepsy. These and many other fascinating facts about his life are presented in an engaging way through the museum’s well thought-out displays, which examine his transformations, social behaviours, and relationships. The museum is hugely popular with tourists, and pre-booking is advised. When we visited, we only had to wait ten minutes, but during peak times, visitors without a pre-booked ticket can expect to queue for up to an hour.

Photos van gogh museum:: Luuk Kramer

Although it’s one of Amsterdam’s more expensive museums, it is certainly worth paying a visit to this temple dedicated to a man who enjoyed little recognition during his own lifetime, but went on to become one of the most famous and influential artists in history.

Brilmuseum Gasthuismolensteeg 7 +31 (0) 20 4212414 www.brilmuseumamsterdam.nl Map reference: 10 D4

museum check

THE VERDICT

Fuensanta from Cordoba, Spain I decided to visit the museum because I like paintings, in general. In each city, I like to visit a museum of a particular artist and in Amsterdam I had to see Van Gogh. I like The Bedroom but The Potato Eaters left the biggest impression. The museum is good value and I would recommend it to friends.

Jared from

Washington DC, United States

I’ve been here once before and this time I brought my friends. I really liked it the first time, but it’s interesting that some of the more famous paintings are at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. It is absolutely worth the money to visit the museum.

Yanny from

Amsterdam, Netherlands I won a museum card so I decided to come here. It was quite educational and informative. I liked the paintings as well as the written information. I liked The Sunflowers and The Potato Eaters the most. Even if I didn’t have free admission, I would come, and I would bring my friends

Value for money: 5/5

Waiting time in line: 0-10min Entrance: €14, 0-17 years free Comments: Largest collection of Van Gogh in the world, well-structured, friendly staff, extensive gift-shop inventory Wheelchair-friendly: Yes! Opening hours: daily 10:00 to 18:00, Friday 10:00 to 22:00

Amsterdam

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Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 +31 (0)20 5705200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl [map C9]

museum check

things to do

Amsterdam when...

You’re bored by: Daniela van der Linde

With autumn fast approaching, there’s a good chance the rain will be plentiful and the winds chilly; but don’t worry – there are lots of things to do!

Café Americain

GARTINE

If you enjoy lavish buffets and delicious food, try high tea at Café Americain. On Sundays, a jazz band provides the soundtrack for their all-you-can-eat brunch buffet. Reservation advised.

Gartine is another little gem, hidden in an alley near the Dam. They specialise in ‘slow food’, and many ingredients are sourced from their own vegetable garden. The place is popular, so book ahead.

Café Americain

Leidsekade 97 High Tea: Mon-Sat 2pm-5pm, €29.50 Sunday Jazz Brunch: 12.30pm-3.30pm, €35.00 Reservations: +31 (0)20 5563010 Tram: 1,2,5,7,10 [map 7-c7]

Gartine

Taksteeg 7 High Tea: Wed-Sun 10am-6pm Reservations: +31 (0)20 3204132 Tram: 1,2,5,4,9,14,25

[map 12-E5]

nemo

museum het schip

hammam

Discover how the world works at the Science Centre NEMO. Their interactive exhibitions provide hours of entertainment for kids and adults alike. Learning has never been so much fun! Have a drink on the rooftop piazza; the view is spectacular and not to be missed.

Want to learn more about the city’s architecture? Museum Het Schip organises bus tours and boat excursions taking in the highlights of typical ‘Amsterdam School’ style. Reservations are a must.

Indulge yourself in eastern luxury with a visit to Amsterdam’s Hammam. Offering mud baths, saunas and massages, it’s the perfect place to relax. Sorry gentleman – the hammam is for women only.

Science Centre NEMO

Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 Bus excursions: dates vary, 13.15pm, €40 Boat excursion: Fri 13.30pm, €42.50 Reservations by email: info@museumhetschip.nl Bus 22

Oosterdok 2 (next to Centraal Station) Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, €12.50 Information: +31 (0)20 5313233

[map 13-I4]

Amsterdam

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Museum Het Schip

Hammam

Zaanstraat 88 Mon-Fri 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm Reservations: +31 (0)206814818 Tram 3, Bus 22

things to do

Amsterdam when...

You’re broke BY: Linda Leonard

Whether you’re on a shoestring or have temporarily maxed out your cards, there are plenty of things to do in Amsterdam that won’t cost the earth.

friday night skate

Strap on your protective gear and join the Amsterdam Friday night skate. Kick-off is at 8pm in front of the Filmmuseum at the Vondelpark.

Friday Night Skate Vondelpark 3 Starts: 8pm

[map 16-B8]

dutch masters

Begijnhof

Just seconds away from the Kalverstraat shopping street you’ll find the Civic Guards Gallery. Basically a public street with a glass roof, except this one comes with a display of 17th century paintings by Dutch Masters.

If you’re overwhelmed by bikes and trams coming from every direction, discover some tranquillity at the Begijnhof. It’s a 14th century gated community, originally built as a proper place for unmarried women to live.

Civic Guards Gallery

Begijnhof

Enter from: Kalverstraat 92 Sint Luciensteeg 27 Open daily from 10.00-17.00

Open daily from 9am-5pm. Access via the gates at Gedempte Begijnensloot or Spui.

[map 14-E5]

[map 15-E5]

highbrow

Pancakes and movies

Grab a quick lunch and go to a highbrow concert. All concerts start at 12.30pm. * On Tuesdays you can listen to opera in the Boekman hall of the Stopera, Waterlooplein 22. * On Wednesdays, pay a visit to the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10. * The Amsterdam Conservatory students perform on Fridays, Oosterdokskade 151. * Do you prefer organ music? Visit the Westerkerk on Fridays, Prinsengracht 281.

At the Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen, a charming little farmer’s house in Westerpark, you can eat pancakes (€2.50), play games, watch movies and, in the evenings, enjoy a concert. There’s a vintage shop too. But you can leave your wallet at home because the items are not for sale. Ons Genoegen

Spaarndammerdijk 319

[map 17-g6 | 18-c10 | 19-H3 | 20-d3/4]

captured

04/09 Valtifest

- NDSM Wharf

A highly entertaining festival organised by Meubelstukken (from famous Dutch DJ Joost van Bellen) where the dress code is as important as the line-up. This year the dress code was ‘Rephotos: Robert Bot / www.link2party.nl

ligion’. The annual event, attended by 10,000, is held at the industrial NDSM Wharf, Amsterdam Noord.

CAPTURED

If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!

What you missed last month! By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions

22/08 Grazia’s PC Catwalk This famous

- P.C. Hooftstraat

Amsterdam shopping street was transformed into the world’s largest catwalk by lifestyle magazine Michiel Döbelman has deep roots in the

Grazia.

Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions organises events for Elite Models, Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl

Amsterdam

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photos: Mynth Events

captured

Outdoor house festival with an attendance of 20,000. Loveland organises this massive annual festival alongside their regular events throughout the year.

14/08 loveland festival

- Sloterpark

photos: www.loveland.nl

Hollandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest outdoor house festival (est. 1992) is organised by the world leading dance organization ID&T. The event draws a crowd of 60,000 with all different types of house music, from club music, to techno and hardstyle.

26/08 mysteryland

- Haarlemmermeer

photos: Robert Bot / www.link2party.nl

captured

photos: RVDA / www.rvda.nl

03/09 Opening of Louis Vuitton store

French fashion design house Louis Vuitton

- Bijenkorf

opened the new Louis Vuitton store inside the Bijenkorf mall on Dam Square.

What you missed last month!

20/08 GirlsLoveDJs - Paradiso

DJs spin their favourite tracks and change every half hour. Organisation GirlsLoveDJs hosts parties with different concepts. The concept at the event shown here is SEEN, held at Paradiso, where cool visuals were mixed together with the music.

Amsterdam

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upcoming

! d e s s i m e b o t t No

upcoming

By Linda Engels

What’s going on in October? These 6 events should give you a pretty good idea!

2-31 OCT

7 -9 oct

7 OCT- 21 NOV

Oktoberfest Amsterdam

Saskia Noor van Imhoff (1982) No Title, 2010. photo: Mattie van der Worm

Keys Project For the ‘Keys Project’, nine artists dealt with various periods in the history of Huize Frankendael, a stately villa located in Amsterdam Oost. The mainly young, up-and-coming artists work in drawing, sculpture, installation, photography, video art and mixed media. The variety of disciplines stresses the idea that reality can be represented in many different forms. In a contemporary manner, their work reflects on time and space in Amsterdam’s last remaining country estate. The artworks represent the keys to the past of Huize Frankendael. When: 2 to 31 October Where: Huize Frankendaal Admission: €3 www.huizefrankendael.nl

Amsterdam

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The Oktoberfest in Munich has drawn millions of people to the city for years. But now party and/or beer lovers don’t have to travel so far, as Amsterdam now has its own version.Visitors are of course welcome to wear Lederhosen and Dirndls, participate in typical German drinking games or sing along to German schlagers performed by artists such as Dries Roelvink and Dennie Christian. When: 7 to 9 October Where: Olympisch Stadion Admission: €65 (including dinner and unlimited drinks and entertainment) www.oktoberfest-amsterdam.nl photo:Oktoberfest Amsterdam

photo: Cirque du Soleil

Cirque du Soleil The circus is coming to town, and not just any old circus! The magical Cirque du Soleil is returning to Amsterdam. This year’s theme is ‘Totem’, which refers to any mythical object, animal or being that symbolises the strength of an individual or group. The show whisks the audience off on a whirlwind journey, from the beginning of man right through to the ultimate dream of unaided flight. When: 7 October to 21 November Where: At the Circus Tent that’s set up in the Amsterdam ArenA Car Park Admission: from €39 www.cirquedusoleil.com

no map here? Browse the Amsterdam City Map at www.amsterdam-magazine.com

Want a real copy? Send an email to info@amsterdam-magazine.com or call us on +31 (0)20 84 616 90 to see if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got some left...

Within the magazine youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see map references (the red dots), which are connected to this map. So no more getting lost in Amsterdam...

fr ee city ma p

16 oct

20 - 23 oct

20 - 29 oct

amsterdam dance event

photo: A Venue

Latin Village Festival The Latin Village Festival brings the sounds of South America to Amsterdam. The all-day festival features live music, DJs and dance shows, with salsa, rumba, Latin house, tango and Brazillian beats to be enjoyed. On site, there will be sun-drenched bars, a Latin restaurant and several chill-out areas in which to relax after some serious dancing. When: 16 October Where: Westergasfabriek Admission: €34,75 www.a-venue.nl/events/latinvillagewestergasfabriek/121/

The Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) is the gateway to the international electronic music scene. For four days music lovers can enjoy the pick of the world’s best dance music artists. In around 40 venues, more than 700 DJs and artists – famous names as well as rising stars – will showcase their talent. The playlist for 2010 is suitably diverse: electronic, acid, techno, trance, house, hip hop, and drum and bass are among the beats guaranteed to get people moving. When: 20 to 23 October Where: Several venues in Amsterdam Admission: varies www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl photo: www.clubjudge.com -Maarten in ‘t Groen

photo: Cinekid

cinekid The Cinekid Festival is an annual film, television and new media festival for children held in Amsterdam. Children and guests can visit one or more of the 500 media productions that Cinekid has to offer: films, documentaries, short films, cartoons, television productions, cross-media productions, interactive installations and workshops. This years theme is ‘Fantastic Tales’ and classics such as E.T. and The Neverending Story will be screened. When: 20 to 29 October Where: Westergasfabriek and other locations Admission: Varies, a day ticket costs €13 www.cinekid.nl

best of amsterdam

Places to eat Best of Amsterdam

For Dinner

Fifteen

Seasons

Nevy

Bridges

Fifteen Amsterdam is no ordinary restaurant. It is based on the successful concept of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen in London, and continues his vision which is to give 15-20 youngsters each year the opportunity to change their lives and train to become chefs.

The trendy yet casual atmosphere, combined with the excellent service and seasonal specials makes for a splendid evening whether with friends, colleagues, or that special someone.

Enjoy excellent fresh fish, cooked to your wishes with an accompanying sauce of your choice. Offering great value for money, Nevy guarantees a fantastic seafood experience in a delightful setting.

Bridges is all about fish. The best fish, always and only in the proper season. They offer a wide selection of fresh fish and seafood, both in their restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Choose from oysters, lobster sandwiches, and super-fresh fish, all prepared while you watch.

Jollemanhof 9

Herenstraat 16

Westerdoksdijk 40A

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197

[map 21-j3]

[map 22-E3]

[map 3-f5]

+31 (0)20 5095015 www.fifteen.nl

+31 (0)6 53697057 www.seasonsrestaurant.nl

+31 (0)20 3446409 www.nevy.nl

For Dinner

+31 (0)20 5553560 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl

For Lunch

Toro Dorado

Amsterdam Jewel Cruises

Golden Brown Bar

The Pancake Bakery

Steak restaurant Toro Dorado serves a selection of quality steaks, grilled to perfection. Choose from Royal Wagyu Kobe Select, Scottish Aberdeen Angus or Argentinian Hereford. A friendly, relaxed restaurant in the city centre.

Enjoy a 3-course à la carte dinner whilst cruising the world famous canals on a classic riverboat, built in 1898. A complete evening dinner cruise of almost 3 hours including an amuse-bouche followed by 3 gourmet courses.

The Golden Brown Bar & Restaurant has a nice atmosphere with a modern interior and promising menu on a suprising menu card.

This typical Dutch pancake house is inside a beautiful canal house. Amsterdam’s finest pancakes are served with a smile. A fun place to lunch!

Spuistraat 3A

Singel 235

Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146

Prinsengracht 191-A

[map 24-f3]

[map 25-e4]

[map 45-8a]

[map 27-d3]

+31 (0)20 4218695 www.torodorado.com

+31 (0)20 4221385 www.amsterdamjewelcruises.com

+31 (0)20 6124076 www.goldenbrownbar.nl

+31 (0)20 6251333 www.pancake.nl

Amsterdam

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best of amsterdam

Culture Vulture Best of Amsterdam

Museums

Rijksmuseum

Hermitage

Van Gogh Museum

Holland Pass

The Rijksmuseum offers an overview of Dutch art and history from medieval times to the 20th century. The museum (opened in 1885) is currently undergoing major renovation work.

This is the first time that any Dutch museum has devoted an exhibition to Alexander the Great (September 2010 till March 2011), his journey to the East, and the influence of Hellenism. The exhibition spans a period of almost 2500 years.

The museum’s permanent collection includes more than 200 paintings by Van Gogh, 500 drawings and more than 750 letters. Visit, take a look and (re)discover The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and many more.

Holland Pass offers you great savings and convenience during your trip to Amsterdam or other Dutch cities and other sights of interest. The participants within the pass include museums, attractions, public transportation, restaurants and shops.

Stadhouderskade 42

Nieuwe Herengracht 14

Paulus Potterstraat 7

[map 28-d8]

[map 29-g6]

[map 30-c9]

+31 (0)20 6747000 www.rijksmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 5308751 www.hermitage.nl

+31 (0)20 5705200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl

Museums

Experience

Museum of Bags and Purses

Heineken Experience

House of Bols

Gassan Diamonds Factory

Discover the unique collection of Hendrikje Ivo, who collected bags for more than 35 years. The museum houses a collection of more than 4000 bags and is the largest museum of bags in the world.

It’s not the Heineken Museum, it’s the Heineken Experience. Why? Because four levels of interactive experiences in the former brewery will plunge you chin deep into the fascinating world of Heineken! See it, hear it, smell it, taste it and enjoy it.

House of Bols revolves around the rich history of the world’s oldest distillery: Lucas Bols. But you should also experience the unique taste experiment in The Hall of Taste. And do you want to achieve perfection in bartending? Visit the Flare Booth to practise your skills.

The Amsterdam diamond company Gassan Diamonds is located in a former steam-driven diamond factory. You can watch diamond cutters at work while a guide tells you all about diamond processing. Experience the thrill of the diamond polishing process with a free diamond factory tour at Gassan Diamonds.

Herengracht 573

Stadhouderskade 78

Paulus Potterstraat 14

Nw Uilenburgerstr 173- 175

[map 32-f7]

[map 33-e9]

[map 34-c9]

[map 35-g5]

+31 (0)20 5246452 www.tassenmuseum.nl

+31 (0)20 52392220 www.heinekenexperience.com

+31 (0)20 5708575 www.houseofbols.nl

+31 (0)20 6225333 www.gassandiamonds.nl

+31 (0)20 419 32 20 www.hollandpass.com

Tours

best of amsterdam

For the Kids Best of Amsterdam

Activities

Attractions in Amsterdam

MacBike

Mystery Tour

Artis Zoo

Nemo

Quick, fun, and affordable! Get to know Amsterdam with friends, family, and colleagues. Use one of their bike route maps to navigate Amsterdam yourself or chose to take one of the daily guided tours. They also offer specialised excursions with tour guides. Bikes with seating for children are available.

Canal Biking is the ultimate way to enjoy the capital city: you can forget the traffic and take a memorable trip along the canals at your own pace. A great team building activity, canal biking is also available for groups.

Founded in 1838, the Artis Zoo is still as enchanting as it was nearly two centuries ago. Not only is Artis an oasis of peace right at the heart of a fast-paced city, it is also a haven for some 700 species of animals and 200 varieties of trees, many on the verge of extinction. A definite must-see.

Everything in NEMO is connected to science and technology. Exhibitions, theatre performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. You will smell, hear, feel and see how the world works. NEMO is a pretty smart thing to do!

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 116

Weteringschans 26-1 hg

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40

Oosterdok 2

[map 36-g5]

[map 37-e8]

[map -i6]

[map i4]

+31 (0)20 6200985 www.macbike.nl

0900 3334442 www.canal.nl/bike/en

0900 2784796 www.artis.nl

+31 (0)20 5313233 www.e-nemo.nl/en

Attractions outside Amsterdam

Playgrounds

Efteling

Dolfinarium

TunFun Playground

FunForest

Efteling is a magical theme park that promises a thrilling experience. Lose yourself in this fairytale world and take the lead role in the adventure. Forget everything else for a while and take the leading role in the adventure.

Meet the playful stars of the sea! With shows and performances, playgrounds and underwater panoramas, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loads to discover at the Dolfinarium.

TunFun is an indoor playground for children aged 1-12. Situated in a former traffic underpass in the centre of Amsterdam, kids can have fun in a sportive and creative way . TunFun offers plenty of opportunities to climb, creep and crawl. They have a disco, slides, trampolines, an indoor football pitch and much more.

A Fun Forest full of exciting adventures suitable for the young and old. Fun Forest has 8 different courses in living trees, with a variety of heights and difficulty levels. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find yourself up for some exciting and surprising challenges!

Europalaan 1 KAATSHEUVEL

Strandboulevard Oost 1 HARDERWIJK

Mr. Visserplein 7 [map 39-g6]

Bosbaanweg 3 amstelveen

0900 0161 www.efteling.com

+31 (0)34 1467467 www.dolfinarium.nl

+31 (0)20 6894300 www.tunfun.nl

+31 (0)6 50271983 www.funforest.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

Open in 2010 from 20 February to 31 October.

best of amsterdam

Live music Best of Amsterdam

Heineken Music Hall

Bourbon Street

Paradiso

Melkweg

Heineken Music Hall Since 2001 Heineken Music Hall lives up to her credo “Live will never be the same!”. The concept, which is internationally refreshing, offers over 600.000 visitors a year an unforgettable night out.

Famous musicians, such as Sting, Jeff Healey, Bobby Kimball(Toto), The entire Rolling Stones Crew and the late dutch rock & roll hero Herman Brood (may he rest in peace) also found their way to the Bourbon Street.

Because of the diversity in musical genres and non-musical programming, Paradiso draws a greatly diverse crowd: from young to old and from punk rockers to country music lovers, a reflection of the Dutch population.

The Melkweg is one of the most well-known cultural centres within and outside the Netherlands, and is unique because of a programme that unites five artistic disciplines under one roof: music, dance/ theatre, film, photography and media art.

Arena Boulevard 590

Leidsekruisstraat 6

Weteringschans 6-8

Lijnbaansgracht 234

+31 (0)20 4097979 www.heineken-music-hall.nl

[map 47-d7]

[map 48-d8]

[map 49-c7/d7]

+31 (0)20 6233440 www.bourbonstreet.nl

+31 (0)20 6264521 www.paradiso.nl

+31 (0)20 5318181 www.melkweg.nl

Concertgebouw

Winston Kingdom

Sugar Factory

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

Multidisciplinary programming bringing you innovative parties, young talent, live shows, new disco, progressive clubs, poetry, dancefloor jazz, art, bigbands and a creatively motivated public!

The spectacular building has become Amsterdam’s Concert Hall of the 21st Century. The Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ shows current musical developments in the form of special series, festivals, multimedia concerts and exhibitions.

Described as the best instrument in the orchestra it houses, the Concertgebouw. This must have been what the great and the good of Amsterdam had in mind in 1881, when they decided that the Dutch capital should have a proper concert hall worthy of the name.

Open every night of the week until late; the program includes indierock, electro, drum n bass, hip-hop, dub-reggae and unpretentious retro-pop and disco, on most nights preluded by local and international live acts of all sorts and styles.

Lijnbaansgracht 238

Piet Heinkade 1

Concertgebouwplein 2-6

Warmoesstraat 129

[map 50-d7]

[map j3]

[map c10]

[map 76-f4]

+31 (0)20 6270008 www.sugarfactory.nl

+31 (0)20 7882010 www.muziekgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 5730573 www.concertgebouw.nl

+31 (0)20 6231380 www.winston.nl

Amsterdam

magazine

best of amsterdam

Gay Scene Best of Amsterdam

Bars

Shop

Roque

The Queen’s Head

Getto

Vrolijk Bookshop

Trendy Club Roque boasts a cocktail bar, funky dance floor and a DJ spinning all sorts from old-school house to cutting edge dance. It’s popular with gays, locals, students and lipstick lesbos alike.

Located right in the heart of the Red Light District, the Queen’s Head is undoubtedly one of Amsterdam’s most happening gay bars. The bar has a large video screen and hosts weekly events. Check their website for more details.

The great sort of place you could visit one or three times a week, eat and be merry. A place with an attitude free zone, for gays, lesbians, bi, queers and straights.

The Amsterdam based gay & lesbian ‘Vrolijk’ shop has two floors with lots of queer books/ movies (DVDs) with Lesbian, Gay, Transgender or Camp content. A must visit!

Amstel 178

Zeedijk 20

Warmoesstraat 51

Paleisstraat 135

[map 54-g6]

[map 55-g3]

[map 56-f3]

[map 57-e4]

+31 (0)6 47322051 www.clubroque.nl

+31 (0)20 4202475 www.queenshead.nl

+31 (0)20 4215151 www.getto.nl

+31 (0)20 6235142 www.vrolijk.nu

Shop

Cruise

Mr. B

Rob

The Eagle

Club Church

Mr. B’s T-Shirts are world-famous. His original leather shop is here in Amsterdam, on Warmoesstraat.

This famous gay leather and rubber shop just moved to a new location in the Warmoesstraat.

One of Amsterdam’s very first gay establishments, cruise bar The Eagle attracts a mixed crowd of both tourists and locals.

Club Church is a new dance club on Kerkstraat. They have daily changing (sex) themes, with dance and fetish parties at the weekend.

Warmoesstraat 89

Warmoesstraat 71

Warmoesstraat 86

Kerkstraat 52

[map 58-f3]

[map 59-f3]

[map 60-f3]

+31 (0)20 7883060 www.misterb.com

+31 (0)20 4283000 www.rob.nl

+31 (0)20 6278634

[map 61-d7] www.clubchurch.nl

Bars

Best of Amsterdam

Bars

MiNiBAR

Vyne

MiNiBAR is a new kind of bar. A bar where you never have to wait to be served again because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the bartender. Check in with the concierge and get the key to your personal fridge. Each MiNiBAR contains all the classics like beer, wine and spirits, as well as a few surprises.

Vyne, on the Prinsengracht, is a wine bar with a cool interior. Order by the glass and you can choose from 24 different types of wine. Order by the bottle, and the choice is even bigger.

Prinsengracht 478

Prinsengracht 411

map reference: 40 D7

map reference: 41 D5

+31 (0)20 4221935 www.minibaronline.com

+31 (0)20 3446408 www.vyne.nl

Clubs

Feijoa

Bubbles & Wines

At this luxuriously designed wine/ cocktail bar you immediately notice that service has a high priority. The barman shakes not only classic cocktails but also comes up with stunningly creative cocktail recipes of his own!

Located on one of the quaintest lanes in Amsterdam, and only a mere two minute walk from Dam Square, you will find champagne and wine bar bubbles&wines. Their extensive collection consists of over 50 wines by the glass and 180 wines by the bottle.

Amstelstraat 16 map reference: 44 G6 +31 (0)20 8200670 www.air.nl

Nes 37 map reference: 43 F4-5 +31 (0)20 4223318 www.bubblesandwines.com

column

Framed! BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www.schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!

Date: September 19 2010 Time: 10:07 AM Place: The IJ ‘I accidentally took the ferry that goes to the NDSM Wharf instead of the one that stops right in front of Centraal Station. Halfway through the trip it started to rain. Most passengers went inside. But these two girls decided to open their umbrella and face the rain. The contrast between these two fragile girls and the surroundings of the threatening air, the open water and the rough metal immediately caught my attention.’

amsterdam cocktail

Searching for the crispest Martini, the most decadent White Russian or the sweetest Bellini? Search no more, these classics and many more surprises lie just behind Harry’s Bar. By Karen Loughrey and Daniel Read

harry’s bar

pon entering Harry’s Bar the uncompromising feeling of relaxation immediately washes over you. From the decor incorporating a unique fusion of Art Deco and Amsterdam bruin café to the knowledgeable bartenders and chilled-out music, you know this is somewhere in which it’s impossible not to feel comfortable.

International atmosphere ‘Harry’s Bar was one of the first cocktail bars in Holland outside of a hotel,’ explains expert mixologist and owner Driss Kchicheb, 40. ‘I wanted to open a hotel bar without the hotel. When you have a drink somewhere, you should be able to have a conversation with people. A good bar has a combination of things – a great atmosphere, not too loud, and the staff should be attentive.’ The bar was first opened in 1983, previously known as Harry’s American Bar. Driss took over the reins in 1999, having lusted after this unique Amsterdam landmark for four years while working just across the street in Café Luxembourg. The bar has a mixed and vibrant clientele, with the writers and creatives that frequented it in the 80s having made way for their 21st century counterparts. ‘The bar is visited by expats, tourists and a few Dutch locals. You come in and it’s buzzing, we have a very international atmosphere,’ he says. One of the unique benefits of serving some of the best cocktails in town is the high volume of people that drop in after recommendations from friends. ‘We have people from everywhere – all because they’ve been told that it’s a great bar. That’s really nice’.

Amsterdam

magazine

Signature cocktail The current menu boasts over 90 alcoholic cocktails, the majority of which are priced at €8.80. A new menu, currently being finalised, will double this selection. If the choice proves too much, don’t worry – the friendly experts behind the bar are happy to help you out. The bar prides itself on the quality and freshness of its ingredients, and each concoction is a work of art in both taste and presentation. We highly recommend trying one of Driss’s signature creations, such as the ‘DK Martini’ or ‘From Dusk ‘til Dawn’, innovative twists on classic favourites.

Quiet drink The bar is shortly going to go through a process of renovation in conjunction with the introduction of the new menu. The introduction of the smoking ban saw the original cigar lounge forced to close, yet Driss is determined to bring it back, restyled to comply with the new regulations. ‘When you’ve spent 15 or 30 euros on a cigar, you don’t want to stand outside smoking it in the rain on the street, do you?’ he says. By his own admission, the bar gets very busy at the weekend, with up to 150 customers. If, like Driss, you enjoy a quiet drink, we recommend visiting early in the evening, or on a weeknight. Harry’s Bar Spuistraat 285 Open daily 5pm–1am, and until 3am at weekends. +31 (0)20 6244384 www.harrysbaramsterdam.com [map 100-e5]

Driss Kchicheb expert mixologist and owner

What’s your favourite classic cocktail? I like daiquiris. I’m not a fan of martinis; they’re too dry for me. I like drinks with a twist, and lots of flavour. What do you think of Tiki cocktails? I like door74, and the Okura. The Grand is nice too, and Café Luxembourg has a great atmosphere. If I asked you to make me a typical Amsterdam cocktail, what would you make? I’m not so into Dutch cocktails. Most of the time it would be with genever, and I don’t promote a certain spirit, like Bols or something. If you use a particular spirit, it must be because

it makes the drink nice, not because it’s a brand. With genever you can make nice drinks, but they must be dry drinks, it doesn’t make sense to put four or five other spirits in with it because you can’t taste it anymore. What’s the fastest cocktail you can make? A Bramble – that would take me around 30 seconds. Do you use premixed juices? No, not at all. Everything’s fresh – fresh lemons, fresh limes, the only exception is the pineapple, that’s the only thing we don’t juice ourselves! We don’t premix spirits either. Customers like to see what’s happening, it’s all part of the experience.

amsterdam sleeps

Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: The Lloyd Hotel.

Shhh...

Room reviewed: five star Attic Room

Room rate: €95 (one star) €450 (five star)

amsterdam sleeps

The Lloyd Hotel TEXT BY VINCENT VAN DIJK

he guide and I zigzag through the building. ‘Eastern European migrants came here, sometimes staying for weeks,’ he explains. They were deloused before taking the steamer to America. They left everything they had behind.’

photography: Allard van der Hoek & Rob ‘t hart

We pass a stack of mattresses, reminiscent of The Princess and the Pea. There’s art everywhere. Just as I start to wonder whether this is really a hotel, as opposed to a museum, a girl walks by with a pile of towels, and a cleaner rolls a trolley past. This is both a museum and a hotel.

Set in stone ‘Sometimes we convert this meeting room into a five-star room. Nothing is set in stone here. Everything is subject to change. Hotels are engaged in theatre all day long; constructing and dismantling the stage. Therefore, the combination is not irrational. We select artists from all over the world who want to sleep here and establish an art network. Who want to give a lecture or a concert.’

The Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy, situated in Amsterdam’s Eastern Docklands, has a rich and colourful past. It opened its doors in 1921 as a hotel for emigrants, until going bankrupt in 1935. It later became a prison,

The hotel has 117 unique rooms, ranging from one to five stars. ‘You can’t tell if someone has come from an expensive room or a cheap room; unless he’s coming from the shower in the corridor, because the one-star room has a bathroom in the hallway.’

then a juvenile detention centre, before housing artists’ workshops. After a successful pitch to the city of Amsterdam to convert the building into a hotel, containing many different rooms and a cultural embassy, it reopened in 2004 as the Lloyd Hotel.

‘I wonder whether this is really a hotel,

as opposed to a museum’

Traces of blood ‘This is where we rediscover the meaning of luxury. You can sleep in a room that looks the same as it did when the migrants slept here. That is a luxury, isn’t it? Perhaps some people will consider it bare. Every corner of this building has a story to tell.’ There’s a bathtub in the middle of my attic room. Bits of sheep fur on the concrete floor, and a number of props, including an antique cabinet and a trestle table. The past speaks through the bare space. I search for traces of blood on the floor that the prisoners were forced to lick up as melancholy Polish lullabies play between the wooden ceiling beams. I read about the Polish migrants in my room; their quest for a new life. Suddenly I am startled by the telephone: ‘You do realise that the check-out time is 12 o’clock?’ It is a hotel after all. Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy Oostelijke Handelskade 34 31 (0)20 5613636 www.lloydhotel.com