September 2010 • no. 1
beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed
WIN: 600 FREE TICKETS AVAILABLE
Tattoo King starts over
What happened with Hanky Panky?
FOR AMSTERDAM’S TOP ATTRACTIONS
10
m a g a z i n e
North of Amsterdam Leave the city behind
Amsterdam’s canals achieve World Heritage status
Reasons Why
Lingerie designer Marlies Dekkers meets ‘a holy man’
Cocktails - Museum Check - Upcoming - and plenty more...
Fr
And: Heads-Up - Word on the Street - Dutch Treat - Money Index - Smoker’s Guide - Pimp my Bike
ee in Cit si y de Ma ! p
‘I’m really looking forward to celebrating Sinterklaas’
featured venice of the north?
We have our own legacy now!
the regular 24
interview Meet the Dutch: Henk Schiffmacher Word on the street import / export: Marlies Dekkers & Sinterklaas
18 32 59
getting around: North of Amsterdam golden key: Tips from the experts pimp my bike: Michel Willemsen gets creative
36 38 48 54
reviewed amsterdam sleeps: Sofitel the Grand magnified: Flamework dutchgrub: Blue Pepper restaurant museum check: Pianola’s and Spectacles
20 31 52 56
amsterdam cocktail things to do: When you’re bored or broke captured: What you missed last month upcoming: Events that mustn’t be missed
spamsterdam (coming soon) heads-up: News from the city
column 50
framed: By Thomas Schlijper
42
autumn on the heathland
the guide free city map amsterdam house rules wat kost dat? A money index am5terdam in numb3rs
more... dutch treat
letter from the editor
fashion
reportage urban jungle: An Artis update
11 13 14
smoker’s guide
23 62 64 66 68
best of amsterdam
51 70 72 73 74 76
7
About Amsterdam Magazine
Advertise with us!
With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. For those on their way home or just passing through Amsterdam with a connecting flight, we are freely available at all four Schiphol airport lounges.
To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office at: +31 (0)20 8461690.
Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by: Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine
Founding Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra editor@amsterdam-magazine.com Art Director: Linda Korver creative@amsterdam-magazine.com Sub-Editor: Karen Loughrey proof@amsterdam-magazine.com Sales Director: Wouter Wijtenburg sales@amsterdam-magazine.com
Would you like to become a distributor of Amsterdam Magazine? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at distribution@amsterdam-magazine.com. ---------------------------------------------------------Amsterdam Magazine is printed at Senefelder Misset BV Distributed within the Netherlands by TNT Post Š Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2010. Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content.
Contributors Wieke Braat, Katja Brokke, Vincent van Dijk, Michiel DĂśbelman, Dutchgrub, Linda Engels, Ton Hendriks, Daniela van der Linde, Guido Makor, Mike Peet, Fiona Ruhe, Linda Leonard, Thomas Schlijper, Mark Scholz, Marieke Verhoeven, Helen Worswick, Eva van Wijngaarden, Kenneth Verburg, Carin Verbruggen Special thanks to Veronique Beekhuis, Marlies Dekkers, Daniela Gargiulo, Brigget George, Veronique Hoogendoorn, Paul Korzelius, MacBike, Henk Schiffmacher, Adriaan Woudstra, Amsterdam Boats BV & Michiel the captain, Pieter Musterd, Daniel Read Join the team! If you have a story to tell or a picture to share, contact us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com and tell us all about it!
9
letter from the editor
A
letter
s a student I used to work for Yellow Bike, an organisation that specialises in guided tours. They gave me a little booklet that I had to learn by heart. It told me everything there was to know about Amsterdam. That summer, sitting on my yellow bike with a ridiculous flag in my hand and a group of tourists following, I recited the same old story over and over again: ‘Amsterdam is a city built on poles, famous for Anne Frank, its weed and coffeeshops.’ But (especially after a night of heavy drinking and not enough sleep) I felt that my story was lacking. What about our parties, our heroes, our way of living, our shops and our restaurants? Aren’t these the things that make Amsterdam worth a visit? So I quit my job.
Photo by Mart Engelen
Seven years later, I received an e-mail from two international publishers who, as it seems, have read my thoughts. ‘We want to start a magazine that goes beyond wooden shoes, windmills and weed. Are you interested?’ The answer to that question lies in your hands right now. Please flick through it, bury yourself in it, interpret it, peruse it, refer to it, skim it and study it. Do whatever you like with it, as long as you don’t settle for less. Enjoy your stay!
Mathilde Hoekstra - Editor in Chief
11
spamsterdam
[win!]
Spamsterdam (coming soon)
Last month, looking at the Spamsterdam inbox was a lonely experience – it was empty. Well that’s pretty understandable considering this is the very first issue and we haven’t been able to tell you how to get in touch. Now is the time to tell us what you think and next month we will publish the very best of all of your comments, experiences and opinions. Below you can find all the ways to get in touch and start telling us what you’re thinking about your experiences of Amsterdam and, of course, Amsterdam Magazine. So, email us at inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com as soon as you can to be in with a chance of winning some fantastic prizes. We’re offering free entrance to three of the best attractions in Amsterdam: Artis Zoo, the Rijksmuseum and the Hermitage. We look forward to giving the tickets to the lucky winners and of course it doesn’t stop there. Keep in touch via email, Twitter and Facebook! You can see all our contact details on the right >
Enjoy!
inbox@amsterdam-magazine.com Facebook: Amsterdam Magazine Twitter: amsterdammag
The Amsterdam Magazine team
To win just email us: - Your name, age and country of residence - The dates of your stay in Amsterdam - Your hotel name and room number - Which tickets you would like, either Artis, Rijksmuseum or Hermitage
for s t e k tic 50 x 2 Royal Zoo Artis for s t e k tic m 100 x 2tage Museu Hermi s for t e k c i t 150 x 2ijksmuseum the R
This is what we have to give away...
13
heads-up
Heads-up; from the city
by eva van wijngaarden
Ramadan fundraiser During Ramadan around 67,000 Muslims in Amsterdam are reflecting on behaviour, habits and solidarity, making it the perfect occasion to raise money for charity. During this time the Morocco Foundation organises an Iftar (a big meal after sunset, usually held with friends and family) for the whole neighbourhood (people living in the Pijp district). The money raised will be used to improve the quality of education in Morocco. In 2010 Ramadan starts on August 11, and lasts for 30 days. Source: Morocco Foundation & O+S
culture & religion
sports
World Cup in Amsterdam? With the World Cup still fresh in the mind, the battle to host the tournament in 2018 has already begun. In fact, FIFA are currently considering the joint Holland-Belgium bid, and the organisation’s committee has visited both countries. However, with 51,000 seats the Amsterdam ArenA (home stadium of Ajax) would need to add an extra 34,000 to accommodate the fans! FIFA will announce the winning country in December. Source: Press Office Amsterdam ArenA
economy
Cheaper hotel rooms Don’t expect five star hotels for bargain prices, but in Amsterdam prices have dropped this year. On average a hotel room now costs €122 per night; that’s €18 less than last year. Due to the economic crisis, the number of businesspeople and tourists visiting Amsterdam and Schiphol Airport has decreased. Therefore many hotels have been forced to lower their room rates. Some are even twenty per cent cheaper than they were in 2009. Source: Parool
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Amsterdam
magazine
Canals go UNESCO It’s official: the canals of Amsterdam have been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. This area was already well protected by the city of Amsterdam, and now its cultural value is internationally recognised. The area covered is the seventeenth-century canal ring inside the Singelgracht. The debate on whether this is a blessing or a curse continues. Now the canals are protected, but the downside is that the inner city is completely locked: no changes can be made whatsoever. Source: whc.unesco.org
heads-up
Gay Pride The highlight of Amsterdam’s Gay Pride event, held annually, is the famous Canal Parade. Despite being the fifteenth event this year, the parade is still subject to criticism. To show sympathy with the gay community, many prominent public figures joined the procession. Amongst them were politicians, national celebrities and the mayor of Amsterdam, Eberhard van der Laan. Source: ProGay
event
Canal grown vegetables Artist Damian O’ Sullivan has come up with a great idea. He wants to use old tourist canal boats as greenhouses. The boats will sail around to benefit from the best weather conditions. When the vegetables are harvested, they will be sold on the side of the canals. The first ‘Boatanic’ boat will take to the canals in 2011. Source: www.boatanic.com
agriculture
District t h g i L d e R too scaralyto?ur!
internet
u Take a virt
viewed am can be f Amsterd o le as o re h a w e only a few Virtually th iew, with V ht t ig e e L tr d S e as is the R on Google ith w these are f o o d e to n O g . missing somethin ve a h their t d h n ig a his m g there District. T en workin m o o w to e re th a f o streets the privacy claims the the le g o ce o in G S t . u n va visitors. B h a camera er, a access wit me small co e b s a narrow to h t n e m ets. ip re u st q hy e ap these photograp used to m t the e b si l) vi il to w e d n t would lik car can (a a th s st ri ! s for tou the nerve Good new quite have ’t n o d t u area, b rool
Source: Pa
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heads-up
Chase the dragon The European Dragon Boat Racing Championship was held in Amsterdam last month. Each boat has a team of up to twenty paddlers and is decorated with a colourful dragon’s head, scales and a tail. To keep the rowers going, each boat has a drum onboard to provide a steady tempo. It was the largest Dragon Boating event ever held in the Netherlands. In total eighty teams from fourteen countries took part in the race for the European title.
politics
Remarkable president Desi Bouterse has been elected president in former Dutch colony Suriname. In the Bijlmer district (home to around 69,500 Surinamese immigrants), hundreds gathered to watch the election. Many recall Bouterse as a military leader in the 70s when Suriname became independent. Bouterse remains a main suspect in the December Murders of 1982. If the president were to pay a visit to the Netherlands, he’d be arrested for these murders. Source: NOVA
Bye bye beer bike
local
sports
Home for the homeless What to do with an empty office owned by the city of Amsterdam? Maureen van der Pligt, member of the local political party SP, has a suggestion: ‘Let’s make it a sleeping house for the homeless!’ She turned her request into a playful protest with a banner at the building (check out the building at Koninginneweg 1), demanding more attention for the shortage in homeless shelters. Around 2,500 people live on the streets of Amsterdam and they get fined when caught sleeping in public. According to van der Pligt this policy is unfair. Source: Press Office Amsterdam
charity
The beer bike will soon disappear from the streets of Amsterdam. Beer bikes have been available for hire through several companies, and are popular with stag and hen parties. Between ten and twenty people sit at the bike, and ride through the city while drinking beer from its tap. During a hen party last year, three women were injured. The beer bike appeared to be too high for the tunnel they wanted to access. A lawsuit followed and the judge deemed the beer bike too broad to be a real bicycle. Several parts of Amsterdam are figuring out what is necessary to get special permission to keep the beer bike rolling. Source: Parool
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Schiffmacher & Veldhoen Ceintuurbaan 416 +31 (0)20 4705578 www.tattooing.nl Tram 3, stop van Woustraat Map reference: 2 G10
meet the dutch
Tattoo artist Henk Schiffmacher had a world famous tattoo parlour. And then left. What’s the story? An interview.
What happened to
Hanky Panky? ‘That’s none of your fucking business’
P
text: Katja BrokkE, Photography: Mathilde Hoekstra
ainter, writer and tattooist Henk Schiffmacher, 58, has tattooed international stars such as Kurt Cobain, members of the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, and Skin from Skunk Anansie. His tattoo parlour in the Red Light District, Hanky Panky, was world famous. But then, ten years ago, he suddenly abandoned the place. So what’s the story?
Tattooed Jesus With this question in mind, I visit his new shop, Schiffmacher & Veldhoen, on Ceintuurbaan. Schiffmacher is late, thanks to the rain, and there are ten people waiting for him. First in the queue is a 16-year-old boy, waiting to get his first tattoo. He’s chosen an eagle. While I wait, I take the opportunity to snoop around, admiring the numerous tattoo books (some of which he wrote himself), a statue of a tattooed Jesus, a parrot in a cage (no tattoo found here), and even a tattooed coat.
you don’t need to know.’ Rumour has it that the shop was taken over by the Hell’s Angels. But it’s clear that this story will remain just that – a rumour. The only thing we know for sure is that he lost his shop. Schiffmacher opened Hanky Panky, his first tattoo parlour, in 1979, after being introduced to the world of tattooing by Tattoo Peter (Pier de Haan). It was Tattoo Peter who gave him his first tattoo – a goat’s skull. After that he was hooked. Hanky Panky went from strength to strength, quickly achieving international fame. When he lost it, he focused his energy on painting and writing books. Despite being a respected artist, you won’t find his work on sale in a gallery. ‘I couldn’t handle the scum from the galleries,’ he says. ‘They expect you to be at every opening and shake hands with people who just bought a painting. To hell with them. The streets are my gallery.’ He’s not short of buyers, though, and sells his work from home. ‘I just call some people if I’ve finished a new painting,’ he smiles.
‘I tattoo everything’
When he arrives, an hour late, Schiffmacher gets straight to work. No coffee, no cigarette. The boy takes his place in the chair while his friends gather round.
Lap dance ‘Why don’t you join us?’ he says, turning to me. ‘We’ll do the interview right here.’ I take my place on a wooden stool (practically on the lap of his young customer) and open with the burning question: what happened with Hanky Panky? ‘That’s none of your fucking business,’ he replies. For a moment nobody speaks. ‘If you don’t know by now,
Surgeon Schiffmacher is an author, an artist, and a curator. He has travelled the world and produced a TV documentary. Still, his heart lies in tattooing. That’s why three years ago he returned to the business, opening a new shop with his former student Tycho Veldhoen and his daughter Morrison, who he has also tattooed. ‘I tattoo everything,’ he jokes ‘including my two daughters. But it’s weird. It’s like asking a surgeon to operate on his son.’ For now he’s enjoying working in the calm neighbourhood of Amsterdam Zuid, with the mayhem of the Red Light District behind him. ‘I don’t want to defend my space with bats, or worse, any more.’
SAY WHAT? Schiffmacher may be a master of his art, but beware – his spelling isn’t all that. There’s somebody walking around with the word ‘Mokkum’ tattooed on his body, instead of Mokum (a nickname for Amsterdam). And he also misspelled the word ‘Skinhead’ on the back of someone’s head. 19
amsterdam sleeps
Every night trend-watcher Vincent van Dijk sleeps in a different hotel. His goal: to find out how (and if) Amsterdam is sleeping. This Issue: The Grand
Shhh...
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Amsterdam
magazine
amsterdam sleeps
Sofitel Legend
The Grand TEXT BY VINCENT VAN DIJK
O
nce my case has been carried through the revolving doors, I find myself in a different world. Inside, peace and quiet prevail. ‘Bonjour Monsieur,’ says the charming lady of the manor, escorting me to the brand new William of Orange suite. ‘The Crown Prince recently slept here. You are only the second guest.’
Queen’s bed
Three televisions, two mini-bars, two music systems, a dining table, a luxurious bathroom... yes, I feel very much at home. But appearances can be deceptive. To my acute embarrassment I discover that the toilet does not flush. I fill a waste bin with water and flush the evidence manually. Fortunately there is a second toilet. I wonder whether I can still smell Princess Maxima’s perfume, so I bury my nose in the pillows of the Queen’s bed. There are no traces to be found. Slightly Room reviewed: disappointed, I open Imperial Suite my Mac Book to see €3,500 per night what’s going on, but the WIFI system Rooms start at €250 per doesn’t work. night. For current rates,
At this very moment the doorbell rings. Two people have turned up to inspect the toilet. They also attempt to repair my internet connection. But despite a series of purposeful telephone calls, it refuses to work. ‘You can use the Macs in the library,’ the Front Office Manager says. ‘You can enjoy a cup of tea by the fireplace there as well.’
Sofitel Legend The Grand *****+ Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 +31 (0)20 2061730 www.sofitel.com Map reference: 3 F5
Truffles
She tells me that the status of the hotel is about to be elevated to that of a Legend Hotel. ‘That means that the standard of service will be higher,’ she explains. Her male colleague laughs: ‘In other words: you don’t have to flush the toilet manually. Someone will come along with a bucket of water and do it for you.’
‘To my acute embarrassment I discover that the toilet doesn’t flush’ Again the doorbell rings. A chamber maid with a little basket of truffles and bottles of water wants to prepare my room for the night. After turning down the lights I understand why people often book a butler with this suite. I’m exhausted. But obviously this hotel is a place to be enjoyed, not a place to sleep.
check www.sofitel.com
IMAGES COURTESY OF SOFITEL
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dutch treat
Stroopwafel You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried herring (raw, with onions) or salty liquorice. But what about the stroopwafel? TEXT BY LINDA VAN DE SANDE
F
irst things first: don’t be fooled into thinking this is just a simple biscuit. The stroopwafel is in fact an ingenious feat of Dutch culinary design. Seriously tasty, it will take all your self-discipline to avoid addiction. Ready? Read on to discover where to buy, how to eat and even how to make this Dutch delicacy. A stroopwafel (translation: syrup waffle or treacle waffle) consists of two thin slices of baked batter with a caramel-like syrup filling. The stiff batter is made with flour, butter, brown sugar, yeast, milk, and eggs. Then it’s shaped into egg-sized balls and pressed in a special waffle iron. Once baked, the waffle is sliced in half while it’s still warm, and the thin slices are glued back together with a warm filling of syrup, brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon.
ingredients The Waffles: 4 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 cup white sugar 1 cup unsalted butter 2 large eggs 1 (7g) sachet active dry yeast 1/2 cup warm water The Filling: 1 1/2 cups firmly packed brown sugar 1 cup unsalted butter 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 6 tbsp dark corn syrup
Stroopwafels are best when freshly baked. At the Albert Cuypmarkt, baker Ruud Joinking creates them right in front of you. As the delicious scent travels through the market, the customers line up with their mouths watering. And the same thing happens at the Ten Katemarkt, the Dappermarkt or any other market where you’ll find a street vendor.
Stroopwafels are available in most food stores, and cost around €2 per pack. Pick some up for your family back home; trust me, they will love you for it! In fact, stroopwafels are so popular, they’re even being exported to Brazil, China and South Africa.
If you can’t get them freshly baked, here’s the trick for the next best thing: get yourself a hot beverage and place a waffle on top of the mug. You’ll see that it’s a perfect fit! Now comes the true test of character, where you have to exercise some selfcontrol . . . and wait. Slowly the stroopwafel will absorb the warm steam and turn gooey. This is the time to indulge. Enjoy!
If you want to make stroopwafels at home, be aware that specialised equipment is needed and recipes are generally closely guarded secrets, passed down through generations like heirlooms. But we have decided to share our secret. The Duikelman cookery shop on Ferdinand Bolstraat sells a stove-top waffle iron for approximately €25, and this our family recipe:
instructions - Preheat iron Waffles - Dissolve the yeast in the warm water. - Cut the butter into the flour. Mix in the sugar, cinnamon, eggs and yeast mixture. Mix well and set aside to rise for 30 to 60 minutes. - Roll the dough into 12 small balls. Squeeze each ball into the preheated iron and bake for about 30 seconds. - Cut the waffles into two thin slices and spread with filling, and then stick them back together. Filling - In a saucepan boil the brown sugar, butter, cinnamon, and dark corn syrup until it reaches the soft stage (234-240F/112 -115C). This should make about twelve fresh yummy stroopwafels. And if that’s not enough, you can always make some more....
Albert Cuypmarkt Map reference: 4 F10
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FEATURED
Amsterdam
Venice of the North? We have our own legacy now! By Mark Scholz and Daniel Read
On 1 August 2010 THE United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation announced that Amsterdam’s canal belt has been awarded World Heritage status. We offer you 10 things to look out for during your visit.
FEATURED
A
msterdam boasts over 165 canals (Ed. – go on count them, I dare you!).
The area awarded World
Heritage status consists of the canals located within the Singelgracht and includes the waterways within the four famous concentric canal rings: the
Singel,
canal),
Herengracht
Keizersgracht
(Lord’s
(Emperor’s
canal) and Prinsengracht (Prince’s canal). UNESCO’s World Heritage award highlights Amsterdam’s canal belt as a site of historical, physical and cultural significance. Here, we examine some of the history, sights, sounds, smells and communities of these waterways, plus a few interesting facts and figures to stun your friends with back home.
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FEATURED
1
History
Amsterdam is regularly likened to Europe’s most famous ‘watery’ city of Venice in Italy, and often referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’. Little known to many is that Amsterdam is, in fact, the most ‘watery’ city in the world today. Amsterdam loosely means ‘Dam on the Amstel’, the city’s famous river after which the (also famous) beer is named. The initial canal system was built for water management and defence, with the city essentially built to accommodate the significant trading activity in the area.
amsterdam is the most ‘watery’ city in the world today
2
Function
3
Living & Communities
The original functional canal system was built in the 14th century. However, the canals that you see today were mostly constructed in the 17th century following numerous changes to the waterways. These changes were made as the need for water management diminished when the city became directly connected to the sea. The canal system’s function changed, and the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht were dug to facilitate trade within the city. Additionally, the canals were developed to offer the city a more attractive aesthetic quality.
As well as life occurring around the canals, Amsterdam’s community of houseboats is a quintessential part of the city. More than 2,500 people live on the canals, in houseboats of all shapes and sizes. The term ‘houseboat’ is in most cases somewhat inaccurate, with little or none of the properties actually having the ability to act as a functional boat. These boxy structures are usually fixed to the canals, to ensure that during a peaceful night’s sleep the residents don’t wake to find themselves somewhere unexpected. These unique properties are highly sought-after. There are many companies offering houseboats for rent, so when you’re visiting Amsterdam, either now or in the future, we highly recommend trying them sometime.
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Amsterdam
magazine
FEATURED
4
Wildlife
The human population of the canals co-exists with a myriad of wildlife. During a boat tour you can’t ignore the numerous ducks and other water birds alongside you. Most famous is a group of swans that live in the Red Light District; these elegant creatures offer an obscure contrast to the debauched backdrop of the sex shops and prostitution. A peek under the canal bridges will often reveal the nests of pigeons, swallows, sparrows and even a falcon or two. The water in the canals may look dirty, but it’s actually the cleanest it’s been since records began (don’t be tempted to take a dip though; it may be clean but it’s still hazardous to your health) and is home to a wide variety of fish. The water contains carp, bream, bass and eels, many of which have been caught by keen anglers. The plethora of fish regularly attracts groups of cranes in the evening looking for something fresh for dinner.
This is Amsterdam in the 1500s, before the infamous concentric canal belt was constructed. Dutch artist, engraver
Culture & Architecture
In addition to the multitude of animals, there are many stunning and famous buildings alongside the banks of the canals. The houses here are some of the most soughtafter in the city. Historically the Herengracht is home to some of the grandest and most opulent properties in Amsterdam, with the well-to-do residents fighting to own one of these vast, double-width townhouses. A famous stretch of the canal, the Golden Bend, is a must-see on any canal tour and is the location of the largest mansions on all of the canals. Alongside and in between many of the original residential properties some old warehouses remain. Some argue that they are more aesthetically beautiful than the traditional townhouse style. These old warehouses have now been converted into residential apartments and can be recognised by their unique arched windows.
and cartographer Cornelis Anthonisz originally painted the map in oils in 1538, and then created this woodcut print in 1544. The map is a view of the city facing south, and the waterway through the middle is what we now know as the Damrak. A bird’s eye view by Cornelis Anthonisz can be seen at the Rijksmuseum.
Many of these buildings also have a historical and cultural significance, which bring a lot of visitors to the city. At Prinsengracht 267, close to the imposing Westerkerk (Western Church), is the Anne Frank House. Famous for her diary written whilst hiding from the invading Nazis, Anne Frank wrote that she could hear the bells of the Westerkerk. Interestingly, Anne Frank didn’t
actually live at the museum site, but a couple of doors further down at number 263.
you know... the water is actually not that dirty...
5
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FEATURED
6
Drinking & Brewing
Amsterdam is a haven for people watching and there’s no better place to enjoy the view than in one of the many bars or cafés that run alongside the canals. Amsterdam’s canal bars are also the perfect place to enjoy one of the many local beers. But the canals of the city have a longer and deeper association with beer than just supping it in a bar. In the 19th century, the many breweries on the Brouwersgracht (Brewers’ Canal) used water directly from the canal for brewing their precious liquid gold. Nowadays only the distillery De Ooievaar remains and can be found at Driehoekstraat 10. Visitors are welcome for a tour and tasting. De Ooievaar makes the traditional Dutch spirit Genever, which is a fragrant form of gin.
7
Resident President
In the 18th century Amsterdam became the temporary residence of John Adams, the Vice President to the first President of the United States of America, George Washington. John Adams was one of the socalled founding fathers of the USA and, as the representative of Congress in Europe, he travelled to these shores frequently. John Adams’ residence in the city was not one of leisure; he stayed in the city in order to gain funding and loans for his newly established country from Amsterdam bankers. Following his successful trip to Amsterdam, Adams later saw the US recognised as an independent government in The Hague in 1782. On returning home, John Adams was later named the 2nd President of the United States of America, serving from 1797-1801.
american president john adams resided here in amsterdam
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Amsterdam
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8
FEATURED
Transport
In addition to being a great tourist attraction, the canals of Amsterdam also function as a working transport system used daily by businesses and individuals alike. Numerous canal tours are available throughout the city, allowing you the opportunity to sit back and enjoy the view. Along the way you might see goods being moved around the city, or local residents relaxing in their personal boats. Enjoying a ride along the canals isn’t just for tourists you know!
9
There’s a video on the internet that shows tourists in Amsterdam being ravaged by a shark on the canals, but don’t fear – it’s just a well made hoax. Nothing more exotic than a porpoise has ever been spotted in the murky waters of Amsterdam’s canals. If you’re out for the night and want to avoid the traffic the option of a water taxi should always be considered – a stylish way to arrive at your destination. [www.water-taxi.nl]
Music
Since 1997 every August the canals play host to the Prinsengracht Concert. The concert is a spectacle of classical music with the stage constructed in the centre of the canal. Spectators crowd the streets lining the canal and boats bustle for a good view. The Queen of the Netherlands, Queen Beatrix, attends a similar concert held on the vast River Amstel on the public holiday Liberation Day (5 May, every five years – next one 2015). These two concerts, however, are nothing compared to the famous Dutch national holiday of Queen’s Day (30 April – every year). Queen’s Day sees the canals full of boats and partygoers from all over the country, all with music blaring and their passengers bedecked in every imaginable shade of orange. In a similar vein, the Gay Pride festival takes place every August. One of the key elements of the festival is the parade along the Prinsengracht, which hosts a procession of more than 100 boats.
10 Famous Moments
Many Hollywood movie studios have used the picturesque backdrop of the Amsterdam canals. A famous scene from Diamonds Are Forever in 1970 saw James Bond, played by Sir Sean Connery, in Amsterdam in an attempt to foil Blofeld and his diamond smugglers. Hilariously however, the actors during the Amsterdam scene are actually speaking German rather than Dutch. It seems as though the devil wasn’t in the detail this time. In 1988 the movie Amsterdamned by Dutch director Dick Maas used the Amsterdam canals as the spot where the serial killer protagonist searched for his victims. A further movie appearance saw the Keizersgracht canal take a starring role in the blockbuster Ocean’s Twelve. The Pulitzer Hotel played host to Hollywood stars George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Matt Damon and Julia Roberts. And there are many more examples of Hollywood greats and not so greats acting a scene along the iconic waterways.
Taking into account all of the above, it’s no wonder the Amsterdam canal district has been awarded World Heritage status. The debate rages however as to whether World Heritage status is a good thing for either the city or its residents, due to the tight development restrictions and protection that this new status imbues. While the debate continues, we hope you take the time to enjoy these fantastic canals.
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magnified
shop
Flamework Handmade Murano glass jewellery text by guido makor
W
ell, it’s official: I truly love Amsterdam! Being a Rotterdammer, that’s quite a confession to make, since the rivalry between the two cities is legendary. What made me fall in love? The area called ‘De Negen Straatjes’ (the nine little streets) in Amsterdam’s Jordaan district, and a little shop that I’ve discovered there called Flamework. I almost walked straight by, since the shop is quite small and has no sign outside. But I’m glad I didn’t because, stepping inside, I found myself in a magical world of glass, colour and warmth. Flamework opened in April 2010, and is run by Daniela Malaica, 38, a glass artist of Italian and Eritrean descent. Most of the jewellery on offer here is designed and crafted by Daniela herself.
Daniela creates her jewellery using Murano glass, which is renowned for its vibrant colours and intricate designs. It is made using complex and ancient techniques
If you’re close to De Negen Straatjes, pay a visit to Daniela. Her enthusiasm is infectious as she takes the time to talk about her passion. Be aware that the shop’s doorstep makes wheelchair access tricky, and if you are over six feet tall, remember to duck down. However, Flamework is a small one-level shop, so once inside you can browse freely and be enchanted by its colourful charm. And if you make a purchase, don’t forget to send [Prices start at €80] Daniela a picture!
Daniela’s enthusiasm for her art is infectious originally developed by craftsmen on the Italian island of Murano. Daniela, who was born in Eritrea, Africa, and raised in Italy, learned to blow glass in the Netherlands. She then returned to Italy to refine her skills in Murano and Venice. Like all artists, Daniela finds it hard to say goodbye to her work. ‘During the transformation process from raw material into unique glass jewellery, it becomes part of me,’ she confesses. Fortunately some of her international customers send her pictures of their loved ones wearing her creations. This makes it easier to cope with their parting.
Flamework Runstraat 28 Amsterdam +31 (0)6 24141935 www.flamework.nl Map reference: 5 D5
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word on the street
Word Word on the the on street street
Each Eachmonth monthwe wespot spotthree some tourists touristsand andask askthem themhow howthey’re they’re spending spendingtheir theirtime timein inAmsterdam. Amsterdam. And Andguess guesswhat? what?Not Noteveryone everyoneisis here hereto tosmoke smokepot! pot!
By Marieke Verhoeven
Daniel (23) From: Oslo, Norway Profession: Movie export business Here with: A friend Spotted: Drinking beer in the red light district Is this your first time in Amsterdam?
‘No, I have been here for work a few times, to visit a movie expo at the RAI congress centre. Luckily I got to party as well. This time we are on our way to China, but have a 10 hour stopover in Amsterdam. So we decided to walk around and have a few drinks.’
What do you like about the city?
‘I really like the laid-back culture and all the bicycles. The taxi drivers can be a little aggressive though. Some of them look like they’re ready to kill you when you get in the way!’
And what about the coffeeshops?
‘Unlike a lot of tourists, I am really not here for the coffeeshops. I don’t like smoking marijuana. But the party scene is good and the beers are cheap!’
What sights have you seen?
‘The Heineken Experience, plus a boat tour on the canals. And the Red Light District of course. My friend has only been here once when he was twelve years old, so it was definitely time for a renewed acquaintance!’
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word on the street
jill (62) From: North Carolina, USA Profession: retired Here with: husband Spotted: Near the Rijksmuseum Is this your first time in Amsterdam?
‘I have been here once before, about four years ago. It was in spring time, because I love flowers and all the tulips were out. After all my enthusiastic stories, my husband wanted to see what all the fuss was about.’
What do you like about the city?
‘It’s very compact, you can pretty much walk everywhere. And everyone rides a bike, which I think is great. It would help the obesity problem in the US if people would follow the Dutch example. The only thing we have a problem with is the outdoor smoking, it seems like all young people smoke here!’
Do you support the liberal drug policies in Holland?
‘Absolutely! I think it’s great that people can openly buy soft drugs. I wouldn’t partake in it, but I definitely support it. It’s better than our system, where prisons are overloaded because of minor drug offences.’
What about the locals?
‘Very friendly and extremely good looking. The Dutch as a nation are quite fit and handsome. Yesterday, my husband saw the most beautiful woman he had ever seen. He cannot stop talking about it.’
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word on the street
lucca (45) From: Siena, Italy Profession: Dentist Here with: wife and daughter Spotted: Biking near Waterlooplein
Why did you come to Amsterdam?
‘We were deciding between Amsterdam and London. In the end we just took the map, closed our eyes and picked our destination. And we’re very happy it turned out to be Amsterdam!’
How would you describe the city?
‘As very beautiful, historically interesting and surprisingly clean. Compared to Italian cities the streets here are really well maintained. And it’s also a lot safer than many other places. I feel perfectly safe going around the streets of Amsterdam at night. That makes it a good place to go with your family as well. The only downside is the weather, it can change completely from day to day.’
How are you getting around?
‘We’ve been biking around for four days, it’s the best way to see the city. We went to the Anne Frank House, visited some nice restaurants and now have five minutes to meet friends at a design store. That will require some fast biking! Dutch people are very passionate about their bikes, they keep ringing their bells when we come by. Or maybe they’re irritated by our biking skills, that could be the case as well.’
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word on the street
Young Eun (21) From: Seoul, South Korea Profession: biology student Here with: two friends Spotted: At the Bloemenmarkt (flower market) What brings you to Amsterdam?
‘Me and my friends are doing a tour around Europe. We have been to France, Spain, Italy, Germany and a lot of other places. Amsterdam is our final destination, we’re flying home tomorrow.’
How does Amsterdam compare with other European cities?
‘It’s cleaner, safer and more modern than other cities we’ve seen. We like the weather as well, it’s not as hot as France or Italy.’
What have you been up to?
‘We did the touristic things, like going to the Van Gogh Museum, walking around the Red Light District and visiting the flower market. But we also went clubbing last night, for the first time ever! We never go out in South Korea, so it was pretty exciting. We drank a lot of beers and cocktails...’
What do you think of the locals?
‘They’re very funny and friendly. I really like the variety of faces and cultures. And people here are so tall!’
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urban jungle
Urban jungle An Artis Update
In every issue we take an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at Artis Royal Zoo. This month: a giraffe is born!
Mind your step By: Adriaan Woudstra
uJnuen2e6226021001 J , m a , d r m a te d s r AAmmste
Today a light-coloured female giraffe was born. We named her Jelani, which means ‘great’ or ‘powerful’ in Swahili. Her mum Iwana, who was also born at the zoo, is doing fine. Compared to her pregnancy, which lasted 15 months, her labour was very short. We noticed her milk glands were swollen and recognised this as a sign that labour would soon begin. It was even sooner than we expected though, as we noticed Iwana was walking around the Artis Savannah with a leg already emerging. We quickly escorted her inside. Here, two and a half hours later, Jelani was born, falling from a height of nearly two metres on to the ground. It’s quite common for giraffes to enter the world like this. While falling, the newborn automatically turns its body to one side to be sure of a safe landing. Obviously this system works just fine, as within an hour Jelani was up on her feet. Jelani is a big girl; she weighs somewhere between 50
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and 65 kilos, and is nearly two metres tall. Imagine what she will look like after six to twelve months of breastfeeding! As soon as Jelani was standing on her feet, we presented her to her father Asali and then let the family out. Iwana was the first to go. After 15 minutes Jelani followed, still trying to figure out how to walk and keep her balance at the same time. Immediately another curious giraffe welcomed the baby with a playful nuzzle. Jelani took a few steps, a little overconfidently, and tumbled into the dry canal. Within a minute she was up on her feet again. Jelani has learned her first lesson: mind your step!
Artis Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 +31 (0)20 5233400 www.artis.nl Map reference: 6 I6
Did you know that... Artis Royal Zoo’s full name is actually Natura Artis Magistra. This means: ‘nature is the teacher of both art and science’. Artis is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands. It was founded in 1838. There are over 700 different species living in Artis Zoo. The zoo has been home to giraffes for more than 150 years. At the Artis Aquarium you can see what an Amsterdam canal looks like beneath the surface. During WWII Artis was a shelter for several refugees.
Photography: Ronald van Weeren
37
getting around
durgerdam
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getting around
getting around
Back to the Future
By: Mike Peet
North of Amsterdam Leave the city behind
Fed up with typical guided tours? Here’s an alternative you’re going to love!
A
t first sight, Amsterdam-Noord (AmsterdamNorth) looks like a typical, boring suburb. Luckily, appearances can be deceptive. My journey begins at Meeuwenlaan, which is just off IJplein. Turning right at the end, I cycle along Nieuwendammerdijk. Until 1921, Nieuwendam was an independent village. While it’s long been engulfed by the expanding city of Amsterdam, the former boundaries are still easily recognisable. The architecture here is a step up from the social housing that dominates most of the borough.
Wooden cottages It’s not until I reach the centre of Nieuwendam, however, that it really starts to feel different. City noises fade. Cats wander around carelessly. Increasingly, stone houses give way to old-fashioned, and largely well-kept, wooden cottages. These structures are ideal for the weak peat lands of this area, as they require less heavyduty foundations.
Children’s book Numerous floods and epidemics, among other factors, have greatly reduced the importance of these villages, but they have all retained their charm and idyllic looks. Durgerdam [3] is nothing more than a row of beautiful wooden houses alongside the dyke separating it from the IJmeer. And inhabitants want to keep it that way, according to pamphlets protesting against plans to expand the village. When I arrive, I can’t help but feel like I’ve landed in a children’s book. The protagonist would surely spend endless summers here, diving into the lake, sailing in his little boat and making new friends, oblivious to the fact that he’s growing up and will soon face responsibilities far greater than simply enjoying himself. Yes, it’s easy to forget about the city here, but only for a moment. The enormous electricity pylons on the horizon, as well as plumes of smoke from the Amsterdam skyline, are ever-present and make for an awkward, yet fascinating contrast.
Where city noises fade and cats wander around carelessly
Nieuwendam marks the start of the ‘Rural North’ of Amsterdam, an excellent place to time travel a couple of centuries into the past. Back then, Durgerdam and awkwardly named villages such as Ransdorp (ranzig being the Dutch word for ‘dirty’), Holysloot (‘holy ditch’) and Broek in Waterland (‘pants in water land’) were prosperous little settlements where farmers and shippers resided, providing Amsterdam with dairy products, fish and meat.
Sleepy town From Durgerdam it’s just a short bike ride to Ransdorp. I sit down in the local café, where the smoking ban is happily ignored and the owner kills insects on the bar with a fly swatter. My croque-monsieur tastes just fine, nonetheless. This place is clearly ‘old school’, as is the €0.50 entrance fee to the local landmark: >
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getting around
his garden and asks for the cemetery. Not only does he give them directions, he takes off his hat in the process. His friendliness
> a 32-meter-high Gothic tower next to the church. At the top, the views are stellar. It’s easy to make out Holysloot [7], another sleepy town on my route. When I get there, I decide to take a shortcut. A tiny ferry (summoned by ringing a bell) drops me off in the meadows.
is almost eerie, like he’s part of a role-playing game set in the 18th century. Underground parties I slowly cycle back to the city, and back to present times. But the time machine that is Amsterdam-Noord has a grand finale planned at the old shipyards along the IJ. At the NDSM-yard [1], [4], some of the docks still look like they’re being used to build or repair ships. But as we have seen, appearances can be deceptive. Underground parties are hosted here and hip media companies, MTV being the prime example, have moved into the buildings. The present has moved into the past, so to speak. And the past conceals the present.
I cross five feeble ditch bridges and say hello to the smiling farmer before my bicycle and I reach asphalt again. My reward: close proximity to Broek in Waterland [2], [6], [8], the biggest village in this region. Silent motorboats carrying tourists glide gently through the canals, passing immaculately painted houses. This used to be the richest settlement in the area and it tries hard to keep up appearances. Outside the church, a group of Germans seem lost. One of them walks up to an old man tending
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getting around
How to get there Amsterdam-Noord is best explored by bike. After you cross the IJ by ferry, you’re looking at 30-35 kilometres for the described route. Most tourist information centres (VVV) sell maps of the area. Alternatively, you can catch bus 32 from Centraal Station to Merelstraat (every 10-15 minutes), which is close to the Nieuwendammerdijk. This line continues to Buikslotermeerplein, where bus 30 departs to Durgerdam, Ransdorp and Holysloot. Be aware that this line only runs once an hour. There are direct buses going from Centraal Station to Broek in Waterland. Check www.gvb.nl for departure times. Taking a taxi for the trip is possible, but quite expensive
8
(one way to Broek in Waterland costs around â‚Ź35).
6
5
7 1. View at NDSM-yard 2. Broek in Waterland 3. Durgerdam 4. Architecture at NDSM-yard 5. Dyke 6. Broek in Waterland 7. Holysloot 8. Broek in Waterland
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Blouse, Zara, €49.90 Cloth, stylist’s own
Photographer: Fiona Ruhe @ FAASVERONIQUE Assistant: Tim van der Most Model: Mandy (Paparazzi) Styling: Iris van Woudenbergh Make-up: Maaike Beijer for M.A.C. @ Angelique Hoorn Hair: Bianca van Zwieten www.modelsoffice.be
Heathland
autumn on the
While summer’s fading fast, Amsterdam Magazine visits the heathland to welcome the cooler weather
Hello autumn, please bring us awesome clothes
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Coat, Bruuns Bazaar, €359 Leather trousers, Turnover, €399.95
Top, People of the Labyrinths, â‚Ź845
Jacket, Episode, €29 T-shirt, H&M, €7.90 Leggings, Humanoid, €192
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golden key
Are four or five star hotels a little beyond your budget? Don’t worry – here’s some five star advice from a top Amsterdam concierge. BY: Linda Leonard
Where should I go to if I want to see tulips, but it’s the wrong time of year? Set your alarm and go to the flower auction in Aalsmeer. Here, every morning between 7 and 9, you can see the world’s largest flower market in action. Bus 172 leaves from Leidseplein and takes you straight there.
Where should I take my wife: a true fashion victim? I’d recommend the Museum of Bags and Purses, Keizersgracht 573. Even fashionhaters will love it, since the historic building alone is worth a visit.
What if I fancy a tailor-made cocktail? Sit back and enjoy whatever our bartenders have in store for you! Otherwise why don’t you visit the Liqueur museum The House of Bols opposite the van Gogh museum? Here you can learn all about the history of the Lucas Bols distillery and its liqueurs, practise your flaring skills, and create your own cocktail.
I feel courageous tonight. Where can I go to explore the typical Dutch Cuisine? At Restaurant Zilveren Spiegel, Kattengat 4-6, you can enjoy a high-class authentic Dutch meal. The building housing this traditional Dutch restaurant dates back to 1614.
What if I’m looking for something a little more exotic? American Hotel **** Leidsekade 97 +31 (0) 20 5563000 www.edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com/en Map reference: 7 C7
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If you fancy exploring some of the less central neighbourhoods, try Sultan (a Turkish restaurant) on Bos en Lommerplein 71, or Betawi (Indonesian) on Admiraal de Ruyterweg 337. Or mingle with the locals at Restaurant Carels, Frans Halsstraat 78, where they serve a nice pub meal.
What if the Vondelpark is too crowded for me? The Amstelpark is a great place for a stroll and children love the playground. I often take my own family there.
Where can I go to spot some celebs? Have lunch here with us! Ever since this monumental hotel was built (1900) it has been a hotspot for writers, artists and musicians. Soak up the ambiance during a high tea or Sunday Jazz Brunch and relax in the Art Deco surroundings.
golden key
‘Enjoy your stay’
Each month Amsterdam Magazine interviews a hotel concierge associated with Les Clefs d'Or.
L
es Clefs d'Or members have dedicated many years of hard work and training to the concierge profession. They know their cities inside out, and are able to advise guests on restaurants, nightlife, sporting and theatre events, sightseeing tours, shopping and more. They can direct guests to any location, any product, at any time of day or night. Les Clefs d'Or concierges are motivated by a genuine desire to serve. Whether requesting something simple or complex, you can be sure they are a trusted resource to business travellers and tourists alike. Always keeping guests' safety, enjoyment and satisfaction in mind.
Driss Abouz Concierge at the American Hotel for 21 years Advises around 127,750 guests per year
More information about the organisation Les Clefs d'Or can be found online at: www.hotelconcierge.nl.
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column
Framed! BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER
Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www.schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!
Date: August 29 2010 Time: 03:29 AM Place: Corner Nieuwezijds/Raadhuisstraat ‘I was cruising around in my Smart, looking for an Amsterdam scene to photograph, when these two gentleman/ladies cycled by. My friend quickly hit the brakes. In the meantime I was hanging out of the window to capture them properly. Fortunately they were willing to pose!’
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no map here? Browse the Amsterdam City Map at www.amsterdam-magazine.com
Want a real copy? Send an email to info@amsterdam-magazine.com or call us on +31 (0)20 84 616 90 to see if we’ve got some left...
Within the magazine you’ll see map references (the red dots), which are connected to this map. So no more getting lost in Amsterdam...
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dutchgrub
What others said: Tripadvisor.com Iens.nl Mark Bittman for The New York Times: “This was the most expensive restaurant of my visit, but it also featured the most interesting food.”
lue Pepper Reliable restaurant reviews by foodies for foodies. This month we visited Blue Pepper, a sophisticated Indonesian restaurant in the centre of Amsterdam. By: Dutchgrub
lue Pepper is a contemporary Indonesian restaurant that really stands out from the crowd. It serves rijsttafels (rice tables), the most popular authentic Dutch/Indonesian dish, but elegantly served as individual dishes rather than the usual ‘family style’. It’s located near the centre but distinctly removed from the tourist crowds.
7.5
Round-Up Cuisine: Indonesian Neighbourhood: West Atmosphere: Sophisticated modern Price pp: €60 to €100
Details Open 6pm-10pm, closed on Tuesdays Public Transport: Tram 7 or 10 to Raamplein, or a 5 minute walk from Leidesplein Parking: Q-Park Amsterdam Byzantium or Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes *Price/Quality ratio
Blue Pepper Nassaukade 366 +31 (0)20 4897039 www.restaurantbluepepper.com Map reference: 8 C6
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Blue Pepper opened to much critical acclaim ten years ago. A Michelin star past at restaurant Spandershoeve in the 90s, an Indonesian fusion menu and an über-cool blue decor have earned executive chef Sonja Pereira rave reviews from local critics and international food experts alike. It’s lost some of its edge over the years but still serves great innovative food.
And indeed it’s blue! Inside, the walls and the ceiling are painted solid marine blue. The decor is further highlighted by the cold light from small halogen lamps and the small, tunnel-like space. We quite liked the cool vibe but can imagine that others may find it oppressive.
Happy Taste Buds? Customer Service Interior P/Q* ratio
Q-Park Amsterdam Europarking
Check out www.dutchgrub.com for more reviews.
‘The service was somewhat sluggish’
The Outcome
Final Score:
Michelin background
Modern twist
The food was great. Blue Pepper works with prix fixe menus ranging from The Sultan and I, which offers 20 individual dishes at €70, to a lighter and cheaper Summer Special at €44. The dishes are Indonesian with a modern twist. We loved the amuse-bouche of chicken won tons, with just the right crunchiness in the crust and lots of different flavours. Monkfish with lemon grass, shrimp with jackfruit and a spicy glassnoodle soup with a quail’s egg were other highlights. Blue Pepper is happy to substitute some red meat dishes and also offers a vegetarian menu upon request. The wine list is short but broad, including several New World options that go well with spicy food.
Free tap water
The service was somewhat sluggish as there was only one waitress serving. But overall we enjoyed the slow pace as the individually served dishes kept us entertained. The option to pay by credit card, free tap water and air conditioning are other plusses that unfortunately are still not standard everywhere in Amsterdam.
Photo © Blue Pepper
pimp my bike
Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY: Wieke Braat
Marienke Tau, 36, mUm:
‘The Alpha Romeo stickers have to go!’
A
new phenomenon is sweeping the bike lanes of Holland’s capital. They’re bikes, but not as we know them. They are bakfiets; solidlooking cargo bikes with a long wooden box at the front. Ten years ago someone had the smart idea of bringing these old-fashioned bicycles back into action. But, far from their roots as humble delivery bicycles filled with mail, or maybe milk, these days the ‘cargo’ is more likely to be small children.
Michel Wil
msen “The Pimpingle Artist”
Cumbersome vehicles
Yes – at the helm you will often see a proud parent, with their precious cargo safely stowed in the front. They come in a range of shapes and sizes, and many have seats, flags, and even roofs. Since their return, these cumbersome vehicles have been transformed into a Dutch icon, in which tradition and functionality combine. Nowadays, they’re even being used in commercials targeting affluent families.
Bakfiets
Marienke Tau, 36, lives in upcoming district de Baarsjes together with her boyfriend and their 15-month-old daughter. After discovering that cycling with a newborn was virtually impossible, she decided to invest in a bakfiets. The former owner was a huge Alpha Romeo fan, and the evidence of his obsession is plastered all over it. So she’s asked Amsterdam Magazine to help her pimp her bike. ‘The Alpha Romeo stickers have to go!’ she laughs. ‘No skulls! We’re transporting a little girl in here! And no plastic flowers please.’
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Precious Asset
I ask Marienke if she’s had to adjust her cycling style to suit her cargo bike. ‘I have total focus on my “cargo”,’ she says. ‘It’s my most precious asset, so I have to be aware of where I put my bike in the traffic jungle.’ She quickly explains how it works – three gears, two brakes, take care on the bends. It’s as simple as that; so off we go to get pimped!
Monster
Regular cyclists, myself included, are not so keen on these relatively new (and in certain circles hip), bikes. Not only are they slow, but in some areas they cause an underestimated bike-parking problem; as
if we don’t have enough issues in that area already! I usually get pretty annoyed by the jams these things can cause in the bike lanes. Now, on Marienke’s bike, I suddenly appreciate the difficulty of navigating the narrow city streets in this clumsy, 2-meterlong monster.
9-5
After a few winding kilometres I reach my destination: The Pimping Station aka Michel Willemsen’s studio. Willemsen, 28, is an all-round visual artist who moved to Amsterdam two years ago, leaving behind a 9-5 job as a consultant and fully immersing himself in his art.
pimp my bike
Back to nature
His dream is to one day complete a project in three disciplines; painting, film and photography. ‘It would be a challenge to tell the same story in those three different disciplines. The story would be about the city, who can make you a victim of her chaos; get you lost in it. A trip on how we go back to ourselves, how we get back to nature.’
Customise
‘Maybe t
Since moving to Amsterdam, Willemsen has had solo exhibitions in SPRMKT, Brix and Wolfje. He creates paintings on commission, and customises all kinds of objects; from fridges to cars. He has also made video installations for Lowlands, Redbull events and Valtifest. Now we’ve asked him to pimp Marienke’s bike – it’s his very first bakfiets commission.
Flying paint
As he begins to work his magic, he carefully considers his canvas. He hesitates, thinks, looks, and thinks some more. Suddenly there’s paint flying everywhere, his face the picture of concentration. When he steps away, the bakfiets has been transformed. It’s adorned with rich splashes of colour, and there’s not a skull or a flower in sight.
here’s a b t too m pink foir u boys’ ch
Picture
I’m curious to discover what Marienke thinks of her freshly pimped bakfiets. As I present her with the bike, some tourists take pictures of it. She’s delighted. ‘Maybe there’s a bit too much pink for boys,’ she muses. I wonder if she’s referring to her boyfriend, or perhaps a future family addition. Either way, this pimped bike can now transport these parents and their precious cargo in style.
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museum check
museum check √
In each issue we check This month we visit
Pianola Museum Everyone knows what a piano is. Pianolas however, are rather less well known. They haven’t been around too long either; the first pianolas, also known as ‘player pianos’ or ‘autopianos’, appeared in around 1900. By 1935, the economic crisis, electricity and the ‘modern’ gramophone combined to make the pianola superfluous. Not according to the curator of the Pianola Museum, Kasper Janse. He brings pianolas back to life. His knowledge of their history, music and just about every other aspect is encyclopaedic. If you want to visit the Pianola Museum, you’ll have to book a guided tour. Janse’s enthusiasm is infectious as he guides you through the history of these great musical instruments. He explains the different types of pianolas and how they work and, most importantly, you get to hear how they sound. I discovered that pianolas look very much like ordinary pianos. The difference is that they play music automatically (hence the name ‘autopiano’). The music is pre-programmed on a roll of perforated paper that is then fed into the machine. The keys on some pianola models actually move with the music, so you can ‘see’ the pianist playing the instrument. This makes them magical machines; they literally take you back in time. The museum houses an archive of 25,000 music rolls. You can also hear the pianolas play at special concerts. Visit the Dutch version of their website for a schedule (concertagenda). The museum can accommodate an audience of 50. Plans for expansion mean that soon there will be separate exhibition and concert areas.
Value for money: 5/5
Pianola Museum Westerstraat 106 +31 (0) 20 6279624 www.pianola.nl Map reference: 9 D2
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Waiting time in line: 0 minutes (no queue), but call first! Entrance: Adults €5 / Children €3 Comments: Beautifully preserved, historical surroundings and great knowledge, but it’s a bit dark inside. Wheelchair-friendly: Difficult, but possible. Opening hours: The Pianola Museum can be visited daily. Please call first for an appointment. If you wish to drop in for a guided tour, you are welcome to do so every Sunday afternoon between 2pm and 5pm .
museum check
to see if a museum is giving you value for your money. the Pianola Museum and the Brilmuseum.
Brilmuseum The Brilmuseum (or National Museum of Spectacles) is a compact museum in Amsterdam’s Jordaan district dedicated to the history of eyewear. Housed in a stunning building dating back to 1620, the museum is not suitable for those with mobility problems. Its two floors are accessed via narrow, winding staircases, which are quite a challenge. Once you make it to the top though, you are rewarded by a vast, dazzling collection detailing 700 years of spectacle history. Even the ceiling, floorboards and bannisters are adorned with spectacle-related details. Owner Mijke Teunissen, an interior architect, has restored the building beautifully. It has been in her family for four generations. All the little details in this charming museum show that it has been a real labour of love. The museum’s collection and its shop below are popular with artists, costume designers and fashionistas. Apparently even Madonna has been spotted wearing a pair of their spectacles. The street-level shop is based on a 1930s optician’s store, and feels like a museum itself, where antique spectacles (some are 100 years old!) sit alongside the latest trends. If you’re a fan of facts and details, this museum is for you. The only downside is that there’s no clear historical overview of spectacles through the ages. It’s all there, but the sheer volume of exhibits is a little overwhelming. However, it’s packed with character and charm, and worth a visit for the building alone!
Value for money: 4/5 Waiting time in line: 0 minutes (no queue). Entrance: €5 Comments: Extensive collection, great interior, no clear historical overview. Wheelchair-friendly: No Opening hours: Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, 11:30am-5:30pm, Saturdays, 11:30am-5pm
Brilmuseum Gasthuismolensteeg 7 +31 (0) 20 4212414 www.brilmuseumamsterdam.nl Map reference: 10 D4
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import / export
tools of the trade
E
very issue we interview people that are successful in their work, in Holland or abroad. Dutch womenswear designer Marlies Dekkers (export) meets Turkish > children’s guru Sinterklaas (import).
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import / export
Describe the man Sinterklaas in five words? Generous, child lover, forgiver, holy, moralist.
Why are you called a sacred man? My contemporaries probably thought of me as a sacred man because I donated gold to a poor family; I saved three students from death and one time I tempered a storm. Don’t ask me how I managed to do those things. It was the hand of God.
Do you still profit from this designation? Of course. Nowadays Sinterklaas is nothing more than a story; a legend. I owe my existence to the children that believe in me. In reality I died 1668 years ago.
Import 3
Sinterklaas
Are children your raison d’être? Yes. But being a somewhat imaginary friend to them, I regret the idea that they only love me for my money. After the Second World War my image changed into that of a rich uncle. Now it’s impossible to shake off.
Why do the Dutch need to import a Saint? I think the Dutch have many Saints of their own that would make a good Sinterklaas. But I’m one of a kind and I was born in Turkey, not in the Netherlands.
Were you not born in Spain? Ever since I was born, people have thought of me as different. According to my mother, as a baby I stood in my bathtub with my hands held aloft towards heaven. At the age of two I knew all Heavenly Bodies by heart. Everyone was convinced that I would dedicate my life to the church. Eventually I was baptised as a Holy man. I don’t think I’m special; all my qualities are given to me by God Almighty. So I will name Him as my hero.
What do you think of Santa Claus?
The Holy Bible.
We have the same ambition: to teach children how to behave. And we use the same means to do so: we buy presents. There our resemblance ends.
Which movies do you find inspiring?
Santa is known all over the world. How about you?
What is your favourite book?
I know vanity is a sin, but I would like to take the opportunity to get some free publicity for my latest movie, which is coming out soon: Sinterklaas en het Pakjes Mysterie (Sinterklaas and the mystery of the missing gifts). It’s a must-see!
What do you think of Marlies Dekkers? I am supposed to say something like: ‘sex before marriage is wrong’, or ‘women should not dress like a forbidden fruit’. But I must admit: her lingerie is beautiful.
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That’s what the Dutch teacher Jan Schenkman wants you to believe. In his book Sint Nicolaas en zijn knecht (Saint Nicolas and his helper) he tells the story of a Saint from Spain, who is riding a white horse on a rooftop, together with his helper Zwarte Piet. According to him I also glide down the chimney, like Santa does. And my helper is supposed to beat children. Personally I am not too fond of that story.
Amsterdam
magazine
As a Saint I am known in many different countries and in harbour cities such as Aberdeen, Amsterdam, Bari and Sint-Niklaas. As the Sinterklaas who is described in Mr. Schenkman’s book, I am known only in Belgium, the Netherlands and the former Dutch colonies.
photos: Kenneth Verburg, Carin Verbruggen (.com)
Who are your heroes?
import / export
way most people think about life in general. It was a movie that left me wondering… But I also have a love for classics, such as Thelma & Louise and Y tu mamá también.
What are you doing for Sinterklaas this year? I’m looking forward to celebrating Sinterklaas with my family and loved ones. I love looking for nice presents for my daughter Zilver. Because I travel a lot throughout the year, just being at home to celebrate this Dutch tradition in the Netherlands is something I really look forward to.
Who is Marlies Dekkers in five words? Strong, secure, businesswoman, confident, mother.
export 4
Marlies Dekkers Who are your heroes? At the moment I’d have to say Barack Obama. I find it inspiring that he gained so much support during the elections, even though he was an unlikely candidate. We mustn’t forget that as recently as the 1960s the African Civil Rights Movement was taking place in the US, and that now, in 2010, the USA has a black president. In a certain way I can relate to him. When I first started my business not a lot of people believed in me, who was this woman, thinking she could conquer the lingerie market with her ‘provocative’ lingerie?
What is your favourite book? It’s a book called Oblomov, written in 1858 by a Russian author, Ivan Gontcharov, which I read every five years. The book focuses on the main character Oblomov, who is extremely lazy and struggles to get out of bed and do something with his life. A book that I read recently, and found inspiring, was Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert. The search the main character embarks upon, discovering herself as a woman and finding out what she wants from life, is something I can relate to.
On which basis is it possible to graduate cum laude from an art academy? Besides having a strong artistic technique, you have to create something innovative and unique. In my case, my work inspired women all over the world to be proud of themselves and their bodies.
Your designs have been showcased in different museums. Do you see your lingerie as art or as a commercial product? I like to think of my lingerie as a form of art.
Some people call the typical lines in marlies|dekkers lingerie a form of bondage and spider webs.. I see the female body as my canvas and I want to frame it like a painting. By doing this I want to surprise and seduce women, to make them look at their bodies again, so that they realise how beautiful they are.
How many points of sale does marlies|dekkers currently have? There are more than 1000 outlets stocking my products worldwide. I have my own marlies|dekkers stores in Antwerp, Rotterdam, two in Amsterdam, Maastricht, The Hague, Bangkok, Paris, Utrecht, Breda and Cologne.
Which movies do you find inspiring? I recently saw Inception, which really makes you stop and think. The parallel world of the dream state, and all the layers in between, bring a new dimension to the
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amsterdam cocktail
Searching for the crispest Martini, the most decadent White Russian or the sweetest Bellini? Search no more, these classics and many more surprises lie just behind door74. by mathilde hoekstra & karen Loughrey photography: Ton Hendriks
a
door74
s the hostess takes your coat and escorts you to your table,
you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into prohibition-era New York. In fact you’ve walked into the exclusive realm of Amsterdam’s finest cocktail bar. Perusing the rows of premium liquor behind the bar offers you just a glimpse of what lies within this Mecca of mixology. The menu boasts the full range of recognisable cocktail classics, plus an array of custom mixes prepared by the highly skilled bartenders to match your tastes and desires. A conversation with the bartenders confirms that these artists are not only skilled in the execution of your drink, but are also students of the theory behind what makes a truly great beverage. Sitting at your table with your ice-cold glass, packed full of the freshest possible ingredients, you discover the true secret of door74 - the relaxed and inviting atmosphere. If, like us you want a great drink but want to avoid those packed bars with the intimidating ‘your face doesn’t fit’ attitude, then this is the establishment for you. Relaxation and having a great time with your friends is the number one priority at door74 and it makes a refreshing change to the members-only craze sweeping other European capitals. If you want to visit this stylish speakeasy, you’ll have to make a reservation, plus take on the challenge of finding the place. Not because door74 is located in a remote part of the capital but since the bar is hidden behind an anonymous black door. So what’s with all the mystery?
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Award-winning mixologist and head bartender Timo Janse, 29, says it’s all to do with serving up the best possible experience for his customers. ‘We want our guests to sit down, relax and enjoy their cocktail in peaceful surroundings,’ he says. ‘We only have 40 seats. With this limited capacity, we’re guaranteed to keep the quality high.’ Their seasonal cocktails start at €10. The friendly bartenders, truly experts in their field, will delight in offering you insight into the comprehensive selection to help you make the perfect choice. Yes, the drinks on offer are second to none. But it’s the house rules that really set the tone. Customers are required to ‘behave like ladies and gentlemen’, and refrain from hitting on other guests (‘staff excluded’). Mobile phones and laptops are not permitted in the bar, so guests can forget the outside world and simply relax in its understated opulence. To reserve a table, call and leave a voicemail or send a text message on the day you plan to visit. A member of staff will get back to you to confirm your booking.
door74 Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8pm-3am (often later) +31 (0)6 34045122 www.door-74.nl Map reference: ?
Timo Janse
Manager & Head Bartender
What’s your favourite classic cocktail? I have 130 cocktail books, and sometimes I discover a new diamond in the rough. Right now my favourite is the Corpse Reviver 2 (sour). What do you think of Tiki cocktails? Pretty tacky, but if done correctly I love them! Who are your cocktail heroes? Salvatore Calabrese, Peter Dorelli, Nick Strangeway. Simon Difford. Do you use premixed juices? No. We only use fresh ingredients, no smoothies or pulp whatsoever. What’s the fastest cocktail you can make? A Moscow Mule (vodka, ginger ale, sugar syrup, lemon and mint), or a Vesper (Lillet Blanc, vodka, gin and a piece of lemon peel). But of course, it all depends on my set up. What’s your favourite bar in Amsterdam? Feijoa. And outside the cocktail scene: Excalibur, Soundgarden. What would a typical Amsterdam cocktail look like? - 50ml Bols Genever (a typical Dutch gin) - 50ml Parfait d’Amour, Van Wees (a typical Dutch liquor made from flowers and nuts) - A dash of celery bitters - 15ml lemon juice (freshly squeezed) - 5ml sugar syrup Shake, strain, and then pour into a wine glass over crushed ice. Decorate with a strip of curled orange zest. I would like to call it Sail, because it looks a bit like a boat.
all it
‘Sail’ I’ll c
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things to do
Amsterdam when...
You’re bored by: Daniela van der Linde
With autumn fast approaching, there’s a good chance the rain will be plentiful and the winds chilly; but don’t worry – there are lots of things to do!
Café Americain
GARTINE
If you enjoy lavish buffets and delicious food, try high tea at Café Americain. On Sundays, a jazz band provides the soundtrack for their all-you-can-eat brunch buffet. Reservation advised.
Gartine is another little gem, hidden in an alley near the Dam. They specialise in ‘slow food’, and many ingredients are sourced from their own vegetable garden. The place is popular, so book ahead.
Café Americain
Leidsekade 97 High Tea: Mon-Sat 2pm-5pm, €29.50 Sunday Jazz Brunch: 12.30pm-3.30pm, €35.00 Reservations: +31 (0)20 5563010 Tram: 1,2,5,7,10
Gartine
Taksteeg 7 High Tea: Wed-Sun 10am-6pm Reservations: +31 (0)20 3204132 Tram: 1,2,5,4,9,14,25
Map reference: 7 C7
Map reference: 12 E5
nemo
museum het schip
hammam
Discover how the world works at the Science Centre NEMO. Their interactive exhibitions provide hours of entertainment for kids and adults alike. Learning has never been so much fun! Have a drink on the rooftop piazza; the view is spectacular and not to be missed.
Want to learn more about the city’s architecture? Museum Het Schip organises bus tours and boat excursions taking in the highlights of typical ‘Amsterdam School’ style. Reservations are a must.
Indulge yourself in eastern luxury with a visit to Amsterdam’s Hammam. Offering mud baths, saunas and massages, it’s the perfect place to relax. Sorry gentleman – the hammam is for women only.
Science Centre NEMO
Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 Bus excursions: dates vary, 13.15pm, €40 Boat excursion: Fri 13.30pm, €42.50 Reservations by email: info@museumhetschip.nl Bus 22
Oosterdok 2 (next to Centraal Station) Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, €12.50 Information: +31 (0)20 5313233
Map reference: 13 I4
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Museum Het Schip
Hammam
Zaanstraat 88 Mon-Fri 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm Reservations: +31 (0)206814818 Tram 3, Bus 22
things to do
Amsterdam when...
You’re broke BY: Linda Leonard
Whether you’re on a shoestring or have temporarily maxed out your cards, there are plenty of things to do in Amsterdam that won’t cost the earth.
friday night skate
Strap on your protective gear and join the Amsterdam Friday night skate. Kick-off is at 8pm in front of the Filmmuseum at the Vondelpark.
Friday Night Skate Vondelpark 3 Starts: 8pm
Map reference: 16 B8
dutch masters
Begijnhof
Just seconds away from the Kalverstraat shopping street you’ll find the Civic Guards Gallery. Basically a public street with a glass roof, except this one comes with a display of 17th century paintings by Dutch Masters.
If you’re overwhelmed by bikes and trams coming from every direction, discover some tranquillity at the Begijnhof. It’s a 14th century gated community, originally built as a proper place for unmarried women to live.
Civic Guards Gallery
Enter from: Kalverstraat 92 Sint Luciensteeg 27 Open daily from 10.00-17.00
Begijnhof
Open daily from 9am-5pm. Access via the gates at Gedempte Begijnensloot or Spui.
Map reference: 14 E5
Map reference: 15 E5
highbrow
lost and found
Grab a quick lunch and go to a highbrow concert. All concerts start at 12.30pm. * On Tuesdays you can listen to opera in the Boekman hall of the Stopera, Waterlooplein 22. * On Wednesdays, pay a visit to the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10. * The Amsterdam Conservatory students perform on Fridays, Oosterdokskade 151. * Do you prefer organ music? Visit the Westerkerk on Fridays, Prinsengracht 281.
On 12 September you can attend an auction of left luggage and other items from Schiphol Airport. The viewing starts on September 9.
Veilinghuis (auction house)
Weesperstraat 110, Diemen. (Tram 9 to Diemen, get off at Schoolstraat.)
Map references: 17 G6, 18 C10, 19 H3, 20 D3-4
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captured
17/08 gaypride canal parade
- City centre
photography sail: Paul Korzelius
Free open air gay festival, takes place annually in August.
CAPTURED
If there’s a party going on, special reporter Michiel Döbelman is there. Make sure you don’t miss out next time!
What you missed last month! By Michiel Döbelman/Savage Productions vrij op vrijdag
- Location changes, always in Amsterdam
Every third Friday of the month Celebrate the start of the weekend every Friday from 6pm-1am! photography sail: Paul Korzelius
Amsterdam creatives get together. It’s invitation only, so become friends with Michiel on Facebook!
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rokin’ society
- Rokin 38 (Penthouse)
01/08 Appelsap (10 years)
- Oosterpark Michiel Döbelman has deep roots in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. His company Savage Productions organises events for Elite Models, Amsterdam Fashion Week, Armani, BlackBerry and others. www.savage-productions.nl
Open air hip hop festival takes place every August. Admission free.
Sexy, stylish house music.
hedkandi
- Location changes, always in Amsterdam www.hedkandi.nl
Club Air opened recently and holds
SAIL Amsterdam, one of Europe’s largest maritime festivals, takes
1100 people.
place every five years.
Every Thursday to Sunday, entrance is €10-€12.
19-23/08 sail
- The IJ and city centre
Club air
Amstelstraat 16 www.air.nl
photography sail: Seger Giesbers
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upcoming
upcoming
By Linda Engels
Not to be missed!
photo Arnold Bartman
West Beach Film Festival robodock
Heritage Day On Open Monumentendag (Heritage Day), historical buildings across the city are open to the public. Many locations also organise on-site activities such as exhibitions, music and guided tours. This year’s theme is the nineteenth century, a period with two faces: on the one hand the technical innovations of the Industrial Revolution, on the other the revival of historical architectural styles. When: 12 and 13 September Where: Everywhere in Amsterdam – and the Netherlands Admission: Free www.openmonumentendag.nl
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An inventive open air spectacle with a dynamic programme of performances designed and built with industrial residues. Enjoy established names and international DJs next to up-and-coming bands. When: 24 and 25 September Where: NDSM Wharf,
Grab a drink, sit back, relax and enjoy a range of classic and modern films like The English Patient and Slumdog Millionaire on the huge screen of the open air cinema in Amsterdam’s Sloterdijk. If rain clouds threaten proceedings, the show moves inside. Prior to the main movie, films created by Film Academy graduates will be screened. Seats are limited so arrive early to avoid disappointment.
Amsterdam-Noord
When: 27 August to 18 September
Admission: Friday €25,
Where: Sloterplas
Saturday €37.50
Admission: Free
www.robodock.org
www.westbeachfilmfestival.nl
24-25 Sep
27 aug > 18 sep
jordaan festival The Jordaan is Amsterdam’s equivalent of the Quartier Latin in Paris. Its atmosphere brings out the best in people. Since 1975, the Jordaan Festival celebrates the area’s colourful history and culture with a big street party. This year’s programme is typically gezellig (the Dutch word for cosy), including drum bands, children’s games, opera, cabaret and sing-alongs. When: 17 to 19 September Where: Jordaan Admission: Free www.jordaanfestival.nl
17-19 Sep Valtifest This unique festival takes place at a former industrial dock. With a heavyweight line-up of DJs playing dance, electro and thumping house, to dubstep, hip hop and punk, Valtifest caters to all tastes. The Rauw Main Stage hosts several big names including De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig, Joost van Bellen and Mightyfools, but there are also five additional tents packed to bursting point with acclaimed Dutch and international spinning talent. When: 4 September Where: NDSM Wharf, Amsterdam Noord Admission: Presale €50 / Door €60 www.valtifest.nl
4 Sep
da
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Ru le s
the guide
Am
st
er
Are you ready for your weekend of debauchery, culture, drunkenness, or whatever you have planned? Here are some Amsterdam house rules to ensure you have the time of your life!
Do’s and Don’ts
By Helen Worswick and Daniel Read
Transport & Cycling Amsterdam is a small city compared to many but, for a small city, it offers a multitude of ways for you to get around. Tram, train, metro, bus, taxi and, of course, the ubiquitous bicycle – the chosen chariot of the local.
DO
DOn’t
DD Get to grips with the complexities of the city’s tram system.
Put simply, it will get you everywhere, from the hustle and bustle of the city centre to the far flung corners of the suburbs, full of interesting sights and sounds.
DD Get a GVB card for the duration of your journey. All of the
inner city public transport systems, except the train, use this touch-in/touch-out card system. Getting a card for the duration of your stay makes it simpler and cheaper than getting a ticket every time.
DD Rent a bike! There a numerous places in the centre of the city for you to rent a bike, generally charged by the day. It truly is the best way to see Amsterdam and, in such a crowded city, it allows you to get around quickly and easily, just like the natives. Make sure you lock your bike up safely with two locks. To say that they are known to go missing would be an understatement.
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UU Get ripped off by taxi drivers. You will see taxis speeding around the city, at any time of day or night, and this is a useful way to get back to your hotel after a late one. Be aware the fee for a taxi in the city is €7.50 for the first 2km and €2.20 for every kilometre thereafter. (For a full breakdown of Amsterdam prices see What does it cost? on page 70.) UU Rent a bike and think you are invincible. Use the bike lanes, marked by red tarmac on the right hand side of the roads. There are many other road users that are far less vulnerable than a tourist on a bike. Trams, cars and motorbikes – give them all right of way and keep your wits about you at all times. An extra little word of advice is to be careful with the tram tracks, don’t let your wheels get caught in them, many a nasty accident has occurred this way.
the guide
Smoking – Tobacco and Cannabis As we all know, smoking cannabis is legal in the Netherlands and Amsterdam has the pleasure of being known as the weed capital of the world.
DO DD Visit a coffeeshop. To clarify, the estab-
lishments you visit to smoke cannabis are called coffeeshops and the places to go for a coffee are known as cafés. While you may not smoke weed, we recommend that you at least poke your head round the door of one of these establishments to see what is truly part of the Amsterdam culture and experience.
DD Stock up on duty free cigarettes on your
way home. The Netherlands has quite a smoking culture and the cigarettes here are cheaper than quite a few other European countries (not always of course, so check the prices).
DOn’t UU Smoke too much weed! See our Smoker’s Guide on page 72 for some vital health and safety advice on the best way to keep your head straight. UU Smoke tobacco inside. Like much of Europe, Amsterdam and the Netherlands as a whole has a smoking ban in any public building. Many city residents smoke and you will see people congregating outside of bars and restaurants. Join them; strike up a conversation as well as the match to light your cigarette and enjoy the scenery while you enjoy your smoke. Confusingly, as a city of significant contrast, some establishments allow you to smoke a pure joint inside their premises.
Red Light District You can’t be visiting Amsterdam without being aware of the popularity of what is known as the ‘oldest industry in the world’. Yes, prostitution is legal and these tax paying ladies of the night and the region in which they work is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city.
DO DD Visit the Red Light District. Whether you’re a group of lads looking for a laugh or an older couple looking for a slice of culture in Amsterdam, this district is a must-see. The Red Light District is a part of the city’s rich history and, without sounding ridiculous, is populated with wonderful architecture and numerous amusing sights. The district has shrunk in recent years as the city attempts to cut down on crime and exploitation in this area. But this has made way for a variety of creative venues and cutting-edge entrepreneurs.
DD Secure a service level agreement. If you
DOn’t UU Take photos. It is not permitted to take photos of the people in the windows. UU Be rude; ensure that you are polite and courteous at all times. The people are professionals and this is their job. Be aware the workers are well protected, so don’t step out of line. UU Be careless with your bag or purse – it’s a notorious pick pocketing hotspot.
choose to frequent one of the windows of these infamous ladies ensure that you agree a price for the service desired before beginning proceedings.
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The guide
Wat kost dat? (WHAT DOES IT COST?)
‘Wat Kost Dat?’ or ‘What does it cost?’ is a favourite Dutch saying. Yes, the Dutch are notoriously suspicious when it comes to parting with their cash, and you should be too! Visiting Amsterdam is expensive enough as it is, so we’ve compiled this list so you can be sure you’re paying the same as the locals.
THIS IS WHAT IT ‘KOST’ TO ENJOY AMSTERDAM Average price of:
a Heineken beer: €2.30 a glass of red/white wine: €3.50 a pack of Marlboro cigarettes: €4.60 using a toilet inside a bar or restaurant: €0.50 a litre of gasoline: €1.53 one hour parking in the city centre: €5 a night in a three-star hotel: €98 a night in a hostel bed/dorm: €33.50 a Dutch kroket: €1.40 a pre-rolled joint: between €2.50 and €4 a BJ + intercourse: €50 a taxi ride (2km): €7.50 (basic start-up fee) a meal in a restaurant: €29.50 bike rental per day: €10.50 a museum entrance ticket: €14.30 a 24-hour public transport ticket: €7 a canal boat tour: €10.50
Fines:
peeing in the street: €60 being five minutes late back to your car: €60 not having a valid transport ticket: €35 + the original fare
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am5terdam in numb3rs Global Village
743,027: Inhabitants in central Amsterdam 1,514,050: Inhabitants in greater Amsterdam 177: Nationalities represented by residents
Tourist Destination
15,749,000: Annual visitors 37,763: Hotel beds 5: Camping sites
Stunning Structures
6,800: 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century buildings 654: Gable stones 1: Royal Palace 302: Statues and sculptures 6: Windmills
Cultural, Musical Mecca
51: Museums 141: Art galleries 16,000: Concerts and theatrical performances (annual) 55: Theatres and concert halls 9: Carillons 42: Historical church organs
Urban Garden
600,000: Bulb flowers in parks and public gardens 28: Parks
City on Water
165: Canals 1,281: Bridges 8: Wooden drawbridges 2,500: Houseboats
Shopping Capital
21: Markets 6,179: Shops and stores 165: Antique shops 24: Diamond polishing factories
Ride and Glide
600,000: Bicycles 232: Trams 110: Glass-topped canal boats 9: Ferries
Eat, Drink, Dance
1,215: CafĂŠs and bars 1,250: Restaurants 36: Dance clubs
Statistics (2006) provided by Amsterdam Tourism and Convention Board.
The guide
Amsterdam Hash it Sixty percent of all the youngsters in Amsterdam suffering from psychosis smoke pot. It’s believed that the increasing strength of this so-called ‘soft drug’ is partly to blame for this rising figure. Still feel like smoking?
Make sure you know how to handle it! Which coffeeshop to go? Check out page 78 for the best coffeeshops
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The guide
Prepare yourself »» Don’t smoke more than you can take. If you don’t know your own limits, smoke a small amount at a time and wait to feel the effects before continuing. »» Write down the address of the hotel you’re staying in, and take enough money for a taxi to get you back there (just in case). »» Always ask for the menu, and check for special offers (check the price per gram before ordering anything). Bartenders are generally happy to advise you on the menu and help you make your choice. »» Don’t buy a pre-rolled joint (you never know how much hash or weed is inside). It’s best to prepare your own.
Prepare your joint White Widow, Bubble Trouble, Moonshine or Afghan Gold? First you need to choose your weed or hash. If you’re smoking weed, begin by breaking the buds into very small pieces. For best results, crush it in a grinder. If soft black hash is more your thing, break a piece off and roll it into a spaghetti shape. Make two pieces roughly the length of your joint. Dry hash should be crumbled into a fine powder, or you can use your fingernail to scrape of tiny (2mm) pieces. If your hash is too hard to break up, place it somewhere warm, such as your pocket. As it becomes warmer it will soften up. Make sure you evenly mix your hash or weed with your tobacco (or whatever you use). Then simply roll it, lick it, stick it and smoke it. It’s better to roll several small joints rather than one big one, as tar and resins will stay behind. Your throat will love you for it!
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best of amsterdam
Places to eat Best of Amsterdam
For Dinner
Fifteen
Seasons
Nevy
Bridges
Fifteen Amsterdam is no ordinary restaurant. It is based on the successful concept of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen in London, and continues his vision which is to give 15-20 youngsters each year the opportunity to change their lives and train to become chefs.
The trendy yet casual atmosphere, combined with the excellent service and seasonal specials makes for a splendid evening whether with friends, colleagues, or that special someone.
Enjoy excellent fresh fish, cooked to your wishes with an accompanying sauce of your choice. Offering great value for money, Nevy guarantees a fantastic seafood experience in a delightful setting.
Bridges is all about fish. The best fish, always and only in the proper season. They offer a wide selection of fresh fish and seafood, both in their restaurant and in the Raw Bar. Choose from oysters, lobster sandwiches, and super-fresh fish, all prepared while you watch.
Jollemanhof 9
Herenstraat 16
Westerdoksdijk 40A
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197
map reference: 21 J3
map reference: 22 E3
+31 (0)20 5095015 www.fifteen.nl
+31 (0)6 53697057 www.seasonsrestaurant.nl
For Dinner
+31 (0)20 3446409 www.nevy.nl
map reference: 3 F5 +31 (0)20 5553560 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl
For Lunch
Toro Dorado
Amsterdam Jewel Cruises
Brasserie Harkema
The Pancake Bakery
Steak restaurant Toro Dorado serves a selection of quality steaks, grilled to perfection. Choose from Royal Wagyu Kobe Select, Scottish Aberdeen Angus or Argentinian Hereford. A friendly, relaxed restaurant in the city centre.
Enjoy a 3-course à la carte dinner whilst cruising the world famous canals on a classic riverboat, built in 1898. A complete evening dinner cruise of almost 3 hours including an amuse-bouche followed by 3 gourmet courses.
Brasserie Harkema is a contemporary version of a classic Parisian brasserie in the heart of Amsterdam. The establishment is a pleasant and stylish meeting place where you can enjoy excellent meals and/or special wines at reasonable prices.
This typical Dutch pancake house is inside a beautiful canal house. Amsterdam’s finest pancakes are served with a smile. A fun place to lunch!
Spuistraat 3A
Singel 235
Nes 67
Prinsengracht 191-A
map reference: 24 F3
map reference: 25 E4
map reference: 26 F5
map reference: 27 D3
+31 (0)20 4218695 www.torodorado.com
+31 (0)20 4221385 www.amsterdamjewelcruises.com
+31 (0)20 4282222 www.brasserieharkema.nl
+31 (0)20 6251333 www.pancake.nl
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best of amsterdam
Culture Vulture Best of Amsterdam
Museums
Rijksmuseum
Hermitage
Van Gogh Museum
Diamond Museum
The Rijksmuseum offers an overview of Dutch art and history from medieval times to the 20th century. The museum (opened in 1885) is currently undergoing major renovation work.
This is the first time that any Dutch museum has devoted an exhibition to Alexander the Great (September 2010 till March 2011), his journey to the East, and the influence of Hellenism. The exhibition spans a period of almost 2500 years.
The museum’s permanent collection includes more than 200 paintings by Van Gogh, 500 drawings and more than 750 letters. Visit, take a look and (re)discover The Potato Eaters, Sunflowers and many more.
The Diamond Museum Amsterdam takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth, and which ends in the ring on your finger or in the pendant around your neck. A fascinating story that should not be missed.
Stadhouderskade 42
Nieuwe Herengracht 14
Paulus Potterstraat 7
Paulus Potterstraat 8
map reference: 28 D8
map reference: 29 G6
map reference: 30 C9
map reference: 31 D9
+31 (0)20 6747000 www.rijksmuseum.nl
+31 (0)20 5308751 www.hermitage.nl
+31 (0)20 5705200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl
+31 (0)20 3055555 www.diamantmuseumamsterdam.nl
Museums
Experience
Museum of Bags and Purses
Heineken Experience
House of Bols
Gassan Diamonds Factory
Discover the unique collection of Hendrikje Ivo, who collected bags for more than 35 years. The museum houses a collection of more than 4000 bags and is the largest museum of bags in the world.
It’s not the Heineken Museum, it’s the Heineken Experience. Why? Because four levels of interactive experiences in the former brewery will plunge you chin deep into the fascinating world of Heineken! See it, hear it, smell it, taste it and enjoy it.
House of Bols revolves around the rich history of the world’s oldest distillery: Lucas Bols. But you should also experience the unique taste experiment in The Hall of Taste. And do you want to achieve perfection in bartending? Visit the Flare Booth to practise your skills.
The Amsterdam diamond company Gassan Diamonds is located in a former steam-driven diamond factory. You can watch diamond cutters at work while a guide tells you all about diamond processing. Experience the thrill of the diamond polishing process with a free diamond factory tour at Gassan Diamonds.
Herengracht 573
Stadhouderskade 78
Paulus Potterstraat 14
Nw Uilenburgerstr 173- 175
map reference: 32 F7
map reference: 33 E9
map reference: 34 C9
map reference: 35 G5
+31 (0)20 5246452 www.tassenmuseum.nl
+31 (0)20 52392220 www.heinekenexperience.com
+31 (0)20 5708575 www.houseofbols.nl
+31 (0)20 6225333 www.gassandiamonds.nl
Tours
77
best of amsterdam
For the Kids Best of Amsterdam
Activities
Attractions in Amsterdam
MacBike
Mystery Tour
Artis Zoo
Nemo
Quick, fun, and affordable! Get to know Amsterdam with friends, family, and colleagues. Use one of their bike route maps to navigate Amsterdam yourself or chose to take one of the daily guided tours. They also offer specialised excursions with tour guides. Bikes with seating for children are available.
Canal Biking is the ultimate way to enjoy the capital city: you can forget the traffic and take a memorable trip along the canals at your own pace. A great team building activity, canal biking is also available for groups.
Founded in 1838, the Artis Zoo is still as enchanting as it was nearly two centuries ago. Not only is Artis an oasis of peace right at the heart of a fast-paced city, it is also a haven for some 700 species of animals and 200 varieties of trees, many on the verge of extinction. A definite must-see.
Everything in NEMO is connected to science and technology. Exhibitions, theatre performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. You will smell, hear, feel and see how the world works. NEMO is a pretty smart thing to do!
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 116
Weteringschans 26-1 hg
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40
Oosterdok 2
map reference: 36 G5
map reference: 37 E8
map reference: 6 I6
map reference: 13 AA
+31 (0)20 6200985 www.macbike.nl
0900 3334442 www.canal.nl/bike/en
0900 2784796 www.artis.nl
+31 (0)20 5313233 www.e-nemo.nl/en
Attractions outside Amsterdam
Playgrounds
Efteling
Dolfinarium
TunFun Playground
FunForest
Efteling is a magical theme park that promises a thrilling experience. Lose yourself in this fairytale world and take the lead role in the adventure. Forget everything else for a while and take the leading role in the adventure.
Meet the playful stars of the sea! With shows and performances, playgrounds and underwater panoramas, there’s loads to discover at the Dolfinarium.
TunFun is an indoor playground for children aged 1-12. Situated in a former traffic underpass in the centre of Amsterdam, kids can have fun in a sportive and creative way . TunFun offers plenty of opportunities to climb, creep and crawl. They have a disco, slides, trampolines, an indoor football pitch and much more.
A Fun Forest full of exciting adventures suitable for the young and old. Fun Forest has 8 different courses in living trees, with a variety of heights and difficulty levels. You’ll find yourself up for some exciting and surprising challenges!
Open in 2010 from 20 February to 31 October.
Europalaan 1 KAATSHEUVEL
Strandboulevard Oost 1 HARDERWIJK
Mr. Visserplein 7
0900 0161 www.efteling.com
+31 (0)34 1467467 www.dolfinarium.nl
+31 (0)20 6894300 www.tunfun.nl
78
Amsterdam
magazine
map reference: 39 G6
Bosbaanweg 3 amstelveen +31 (0)6 50271983 www.funforest.nl
best of amsterdam
After Midnight Best of Amsterdam
Bars
MiNiBAR
Vyne
Jimmy Woo’s
Bubbles & Wines
MiNiBAR is a new kind of bar. A bar where you never have to wait to be served again because you’re the bartender. Check in with the concierge and get the key to your personal fridge. Each MiNiBAR contains all the classics like beer, wine and spirits, as well as a few surprises.
Vyne, on the Prinsengracht, is a wine bar with a cool interior. Order by the glass and you can choose from 24 different types of wine. Order by the bottle, and the choice is even bigger.
Step into Jimmy Woo’s club and lounge and experience the ultimate in luxury, style and glamour. The style of the club reflects owner Jimmy Woo’s love of the orient, and the DJs spin the latest trends in music.
Located on one of the quaintest lanes in Amsterdam, and only a mere two minute walk from Dam Square, you will find champagne and wine bar bubbles&wines. Their extensive collection consists of over 50 wines by the glass and 180 wines by the bottle.
Prinsengracht 478
Prinsengracht 411
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18
Nes 37
map reference: 40 D7
map reference: 41 D5
map reference: 42 D7
map reference: 43 F4-5
+31 (0)20 4221935 www.minibaronline.com
+31 (0)20 3446408 www.vyne.nl
+31 (0)20 6263150 www.jimmywoo.com
+31 (0)20 4223318 www.bubblesandwines.com
Clubs
Companionship
Air
Escape
Women of The World
Girls Company
Rising from the ashes of legendary club iT on Amstelstraat in central Amsterdam, AIR’s interior has been brought to life by the talented designer imagination of Dutchman Marcel Wanders.
One of Amsterdam’s biggest and most popular night clubs, set on the party square of Rembrandtplein, Escape is always teeming with pretty young things. Musically speaking expect all popular styles of dance music; house, electro, techno and pop via Amsterdam’s finest and world famous DJs.
For over a decade Women of the World™ has enjoyed a worldrenowned reputation of providing excellent service in the mediation of naturally beautiful, intelligent companions.
Girls Company provides a professional and discreet service. Splendid service, class, style, sophistication, elegance, everything you would expect from a quality escort service.
Amstelstraat 16
Rembrandtplein 11
map reference: 44 G6
map reference: 45 F6
+31 (0)20 5849655
+31 (0)20 8200670 www.air.nl
+31 (0)20 6221111 www.escape.nl
+31 (0)6 38357757 www.girlscompany.nl
www.womenoftheworld.nl
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best of amsterdam
Get High Best of Amsterdam
Coffeeshops
Dampkring
De Rokerij
Green House
Rusland
All bar/coffeeshops were forced to choose between alcohol and cannabis in April 2007. The Dampkring chose cannabis and boasts an excellent menu. With its stunning interior, it’s a real connoisseur’s choice.
The original Rokerij (there are four in total), near Leidseplein, is a large coffeeshop with a cosy lounge at the back. The decor is based on Hindu and Nepalese art. It’s easy to walk straight past, but despite this, it gets very busy.
Popular with international celebrities, the Green House is a smart coffeeshop serving excellent grass.
Some say this was Amsterdam’s first coffeeshop. Rusland is a multilevel venue serving a wide variety of food and drinks.
Haarlemmerstraat 44
Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 41
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 191
rusland 16
map reference: 46 E2
map reference: 47 D7
map reference: 48 F5
map reference: 49 F5
+31 (0)20 4279716 www.dampkring.nl
+31 (0)20 6263060 www.rokerij.net
+31 (0)20 6271739 www.greenhouse.org
+31 (0)20 6279468
Tweede Kamer
The Otherside
Barneys
The Grasshopper
Tweede Kamer has been the local’s choice for many years. Their speciality is hash, but they sell great grass too.
The Otherside is located centrally on one of the city’s infamous gay streets, but is frequented by gays, passers by, and locals alike. It has a great atmosphere!
Famous coffeeshop Barney’s has won coveted ‘High Times Cup’ awards on several occasions. It’s now returned to its original 500-year-old landmark building, where it’s been for 23 years, after extensive renovations.
Situated on the Damrak, near the Red Light District, the Grasshopper is a popular tourist destination. It’s located in the basement of a threestorey building and has a restaurant and smoker friendly bar.
Heisteeg 6
Reguliersdwarsstraat 6
Haarlemerstraat 98
Oudebrugsteeg 16
map reference: 50 E5
map reference: 51 E6
map reference: 52 E2
map reference: 53 F3
+31 (0)20 4222236
+31 (0)72 5898498 www.theotherside.nl
+31 (0)20 4195507 www.barneys.biz
+31 (0)20 4287224 www.thegrasshopper.nl
Coffeeshops
80
Amsterdam
magazine
best of amsterdam
Gay Scene Best of Amsterdam
Bars
Roque
The Queen’s Head
Prik
ARC
Trendy Club Roque boasts a cocktail bar, funky dance floor and a DJ spinning all sorts from old-school house to cutting edge dance. It’s popular with gays, locals, students and lipstick lesbos alike.
Located right in the heart of the Red Light District, the Queen’s Head is undoubtedly one of Amsterdam’s most happening gay bars. The bar has a large video screen and hosts weekly events. Check their website for more details.
PRIK (Dutch for ‘bubbles’) is located in the heart of the city. It was voted Amsterdam’s best gay bar in 2009. They offer a selection of cocktails, smoothies and snacks, which can be enjoyed inside or out on the terrace (weather permitting).
Situated on the buzzing Reguliersdwarsstraat, Bar Arc is a trendy gay venue which is also the perfect place to take your female friends. With a large, stylish bar and a diverse menu of finger food, Bar Arc is perfect for a weeknight beverage.
Amstel 178
Zeedijk 20
spuistraat 109
Reguliersdwarsstraat 44
map reference: 54 G6
map reference: 55 G3
map reference: 56 E3
map reference: 57 E6
+31 (0)6 47322051 www.clubroque.nl
+31 (0)20 4202475 www.queenshead.nl
+31 (0)20 3200002 www.prikamsterdam.nl
+31 (0)20 6897070 www.bararc.eu
Shop
Cruise
Mr. B
Rob
The Eagle
Club Church
Mr. B’s T-Shirts are world-famous. His original leather shop is here in Amsterdam, on Warmoesstraat.
This famous gay leather and rubber shop just moved to a new location in the Warmoesstraat.
One of Amsterdam’s very first gay establishments, cruise bar The Eagle attracts a mixed crowd of both tourists and locals.
Club Church is a new dance club on Kerkstraat. They have daily changing (sex) themes, with dance and fetish parties at the weekend.
Warmoesstraat 89
Warmoesstraat 71
Warmoesstraat 86
Kerkstraat 52
map reference: 58 F3
map reference: 59 F3
map reference: 60 F3
+31 (0)20 7883060 www.misterb.com
+31 (0)20 4283000 www.rob.nl
+31 (0)20 6278634
map reference: 61 D7 www.clubchurch.nl
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