AmsterdamWeekly_issue40_12October

Volume 3, Issue 40

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Inside: Music, Film, Art and Events

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• SARAJEVO • SULAIMANIYA • SWANSEA • VIENNA

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NO GLOBE, NO TRAVEL PAGE 4 / PARADISE CALLING PAGE 4 / LIKE-A-LOCAL PAGE 5 / JUST GIMME AMSTERDAM PAGE 15

WEEKOF 12 OCTOBER TO 18 OCTOBER 2006

12-18 October 2006

Amsterdam Weekly

ATTACHMENTS Contents: On the cover Around the world. Illustration by Carolyn Ridsdale.

Features Al Gore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Indisch Film Fest . . . . . . . . 4 Like-a-local . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Ramadan Round-up 3 . . . . 5 ‘Let me show you around’. 6

Going out Short List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Gay & Lesbian . . . . . . . . . . 17 Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Geef mij A’dam . . . . . . . . . 19 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Addresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Film . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 An Inconvenient Truth . . 23 Forever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Film Times. . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Plus The Glutton . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Life in Hell . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Eefje Wentelteefje . . . . . . 27 Amsterdam Weekly is a free cultural paper distributed every Wednesday in Amsterdam. Paid subscriptions are available on request. For details, write to info@amsterdamweekly.nl. Contents of Amsterdam Weekly are copyright 2006 Amsterdam Weekly BV. All rights reserved.

Winner of 3 European Newspaper Awards Amsterdam Weekly BV De Ruyterkade 106, 1011 AB Amsterdam Tel: 020 522 5200 Fax: 020 620 1666 www.amsterdamweekly.nl General info: info@amsterdamweekly.nl Agenda listings: agenda@amsterdamweekly.nl Advertising: sales@amsterdamweekly.nl PUBLISHER Todd Savage EDITOR Steve Korver ASSISTANT EDITOR Kim Renfrew AGENDA EDITOR Steven McCarron FILM EDITOR Julie Phillips PROOFREADER Karina Hof EDITORIAL INTERN Sarah Gehrke ART DIRECTOR Bas Morsch PRODUCTION MANAGER Aquil Copier PRODUCTION DESIGNER Rogier Charles PRODUCTION INTERN Mattijs Arts SALES ASSOCIATES Haitske van Asten, Alexander Gan, Simon Poole, Justin Rink, Carolina Salazar OPERATIONS MANAGER Monique Gruter OPERATIONS ASSISTANT Desislava Pentcheva DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR Patrick van der Klugt DISTRIBUTION INTERN Chris Tian FINANCIAL ADVISER Kurt Schmidt, Veresis Consulting PRINTER Het Volk Printing ISSN 1872-3268 THIS WEEK’S CONTRIBUTORS Goran Baba Ali, Anuschka Blommers, Richard Cameron, Floris Dogterom, André Dryansky, Will Fulford-Jones, Anneloes van Gaalen, Willem Geerts, Sarah Gehrke, Matt Groening, Karina Hof, Arnoud Holleman, Luuk van Huët, Elizabeth Kleinveld, Sophia Kornienko, Celia Layton, David Lee, Jeroen de Leijer, Nick Leslie, Sharida Mohamedjoesoef, Marie-Claire Melzer, Ricardo Portilho, Kim Renfrew, Renée Ridgway, Carolyn Ridsdale, Sanstitre, Stephen Schneider, Niels Schumm, Linawati Sidarto, Simon WaldLasowski, Mark Wedin, Gabbi Werner and Antonije Zalica.

10 SHEDS by Arnoud Holleman

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Amsterdam Weekly

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12-18 October 2006

Al Gore, a napkin and our planet Heavyweights call for corporate social responsibility.

By André Dryansky ‘It’s a bit like the anti-slavery movement,’ said Sir Mark Moody-Stuart, Chair of Anglo American and the former chair of Shell, in a speech following former US Vice-President Al Gore’s earth-shaking address at the launch of the Global Reporting Initiative’s third generation of guidelines, the G3, at the Okura Hotel last week. With the release of David Guggengheim's An Inconvenient Truth, in which Gore again faces us with the upcoming climate disasters caused by our disrespect for the environment, never has the call to change our socio-economic behaviour seemed so widespread.

As the story goes, the idea of a systematised way of monitoring and reporting corporate social responsibility was drafted seven years ago in Boston, Massachusetts, on a napkin. But what was just a bit of paper gave birth to the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) with its three guiding principles: people, planet and profit.

Ernst Ligteringen, the GRI’s Chief Executive, explained that corporations seeking GRI approval are required to report their social, environmental and economic performance—in terms of labour creation rather than profit—according to a set of 79 ethically oriented criteria. With over 900 major corporations on its lists, the GRI is now a worldwide standard for corporate social responsibility or ‘sustainability’.

SIMON WALD-LASOWSKI

Ready, steady, Gore.

Humankind has always anticipated disastrous scenarios, but has not always been able to obtain the empirical evidence or the technological ability to prepare for them. The GRI’s driving belief is that if business, society and government do not take action to work toward sustainability, the worst may happen.

As Prince Willem-Alexander pointed out, for the first time in history, ice at the North Pole has melted during the wintertime. Gore himself warned that if we continue on this track, halfway into this century, the North Polar icecap will be gone. To bring the matter home, this simply means that the Netherlands will be under water—possibly in our own lifetimes.

Staggering levels of poverty and social injustice fuelled by short-sighted greed is the other force destroying our planet.

Vice-President of the European Commission Margot Wallström illustrated this by stressing how even in ‘civilised’ Europe, 120,000 women and children are trafficked as sex-slaves: ‘It is clear that sustainability is no longer only about saving polar bears.’

Philips CEO Gerard Kleisterlee, perfectly in tune with the essence of his business, insisted on the necessity of ‘lighting the bottom of the social pyramid’ and illustrated this eloquently: ‘Lack of health care means unacceptable human suffering, but it also means people who are sick and not coming to work.’

Indeed, not only from a humanitarian standpoint, but also from concern for hard-nosed economic efficiency, people can benefit from what Executive Director of the United Nations Environment Programme Achim Steiner amusingly referred to as ‘non-financial reporting’.

ABN-AMRO CFO Hugh Scott Barrett echoed the notion, explaining that companies with ethical, social and environmental standards show less volatility in their shares, as well as better long-term returns.

The GRI wishes now to expand sustainability in the public sector, and the city of Amsterdam was the first to compile a GRI report at the end of 2005. ‘A sustainable city indeed. Such a title is not a prize to be won, but has to woven into its inhabitants,’ Mayor Job Cohen emphasised.

In 2002, 82% of the French electorate overcame political differences to boot farright-wing candidate Jean-Marie Le Pen out of the presidential race, an urgent necessity. The GRI—with its affective awareness of the urgency to save our world—seeks to achieve the same kind of ‘republican’ solidarity. Yet, the necessary public cash has often been very short. As Moody-Stuart explained: ‘The GRI is a public good, and like all public goods, we need funding from government.’

Gore observed: ‘We are witnessing in our lifetime a collision between human civilisation and the earth’s natural cycles.

This collision represents the most dangerous crisis, but also the greatest opportunity to create a common moral purpose compelling us to set aside the bickering that human beings are used to.’

See review of An Inconvenient Truth on p. 23.

RICARDO PORTILHO

AROUND TOWN

Holding onto paradise Indonesia viewed through Dutch eyes.

By Linawati Sidarto ‘Indie verloren, rampspoed geboren.’ If we lose the Dutch East Indies, disaster shall fall upon us, cried many people when the colony of Indonesia slowly but surely slipped out of their hands in the aftermath of World War II. Six decades later, while the dreaded disaster never struck, Indonesia still has an emotional grip on Holland, as many of the 37 works in the Indisch Filmfestival show.

Why did the festival choose the theme of paradise? ‘It’s a bit of a paradox. It was paradise for some, who long to go back to Indonesia’s spices, smells and atmosphere,’ said festival director Janine Dijkmeijer. ‘But for others, it was the opposite of paradise: going through the Japanese occupation of Indonesia [194245] and then having to go back to Holland, which for many was a strange country.’

All of the films, except for one, show Indonesia—or the aftermath of its influence—through the eyes of the Dutch.

Unlike previous exhibitions about the former colony, this event tries to give a wider view of the subject by including new productions—there are four documentaries making their debut at the festival. ‘We want to show that the Indische experience still has its effect on people in the present,’ Dijkmeijer says.

Take the documentary Kinderjaren [‘childhood years’] by Piet Oomes, who was born two decades after his mother left the war-torn Indonesia of the 1940s. The

A paradise of light. With shadows.

film shows Oomes accompanying mum and aunt on their journey back to their childhood haunts, where blissful youth was cruelly interrupted by internment in Japanese camps. Oomes said in his film that the voyage was of grave importance to him, since his mother’s Indonesian experience was a big part of his childhood and, in turn, still influences the way he relates to his seven-year-old son.

But will the memory of the Spice Islands still be alive in two decades or so, after all the old-timers, like Oomes’ mother, have passed on? ‘I believe it will still be here,’ says Hans Hylkema, whose film Oeroeg is also showing in the festival. ‘The more time that passes by, the stronger people’s desire will be to retain the ties.’

In recent years, there has already been a shift from merely looking at colonial times to exploring present-day Indonesia, Hylkema points out. Film-maker Leonard Retel Helmrich has won praise in the international cinema world for Stand van de maan [‘shape of the moon’], which won an award at the Sundance Film Festival last year. The documentary, part of a series, depicts the everyday lives of poor Indonesians struggling to make ends meet.

The festival only shows one actually Indonesian-made film: Tjoet Nja’ Dien by director Eros Djarot. The theme of this film fits in perfectly within the festival.

It’s an epic movie depicting the long and bitter guerrilla war waged by the people of Aceh against their colonists at the end of the 19th century. ‘In the past century, Aceh has often been a region in turmoil, even in recent years. In light of that, the film is definitely worth showing—also because it is a good film in itself,’ Hylkema says.

Indisch Filmfestival, 13-15 October, Filmmuseum, Vondelpark 3, 589 1400, www.indischfilmfestival.nl.

Amsterdam Weekly

How to live like the locals do in a far-off land.

By Mark Wedin For many travellers, hotels are too expensive and too sterile. Hostels sound—and smell—too studenty. And with colder temperatures approaching, setting up a tent becomes less and less appealing. The ideal way to see a new city, then, is simply to stay with an old friend or maybe a relative who lives in a hip, grungy part of town—somewhere off the tourist route. But what if your destination for relaxation is home to nobody you already know?

Enter Like-a-local.

A couple years back, Esther Weeber, Marieke van Os and Mandy Mooren were thinking along similar lines. The three Amsterdammers had been friends since primary school and, after finishing their studies and embarking on separate careers, they maintained their friendship by taking annual trips to various towns together.

‘Normally, the first thing you do in a new city are the main touristy things, sitting with all the other tourists,’ says Van Os. ‘But we loved being surrounded by the locals. Then you get a real flavour of the city.’

So, the three women combined knowledge from their separate vocations—that of travel bureau, job agency and marketing coordinator—to start up Like-a-local. The hope was to create a

www.like-a-local.com

Jetset your ass. Or, even better, walk.

RICARDO PORTILHO

Going native globally

kind of bridge for travellers to skip past the tourist areas and go straight to the meat of a city’s scene.

The company connects with residents in various areas who sign up to offer anything, from an outhouse to a couch, from a chat over coffee to a full organic meal. ‘We work only with real locals,’ says Van Os, ‘not tour guides. And for all of our locals, it’s not a commercial thing. They like to do it once or twice a month, simply to meet people and tell them about their city.’

And it’s growing fast. ‘When we started in January 2005, we only worked with locals in Amsterdam,’ says Van Os. ‘We spread the word through friends, and then they told their friends. But now we have bookings in Barcelona, Lisbon, Paris, Antwerp, New York—twelve cities in total.’ Every two months another one is added to their list, and every week another local signs up.

Along with the options of staying in a local’s home or eating their food, one can also choose to hang with a native. This can be anything from running with a marathoner, sailing with a mariner or learning the ins and outs of the gay scene.

Naturally, some locals are more popular than others, but if one seems to be particularly neglected, the company tries to help out. ‘If we see a local that’s not getting booked very much, we’ll give them advice, or suggest that they set the price a bit lower.’

Van Os, speaking from Like-a-local’s new office in the Beurs van Berlage, is clearly pleased with the progress. ‘When we first started, I remember we were just waiting to get our first client. But now we have between thirty and forty every week. And we just got our first stagier.’

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Ramadan Round-up part 3

By Sharida Mohamedjoesoef True, I could have easily opted for a Turkish or Moroccan Ramadan event and, by God, there are plenty of those at the moment. Yet, this time, thrill-seeking me decided to head for Pakistan Day, if only to make it clear that birds of a Muslim feather do not necessarily flock together. Mind you, before I set out, I meticulously examined the programme and its organisers to make sure that your unveiled Ramadan reporter would not be unceremoniously kicked out by some lost Taliban sympathiser before she could say ‘as-Salaam Aleikoum’. But it all turned out very Sharia—oops, Sharida-proof. Phew. Sigh of relief.

The event was organised by Sabra Bano, a Pakistani feminist who has lived in the Netherlands for 20 years, and now heads the Dutch chapter of Gender Concerns International. That name may not ring a bell, but if I told you that the Egyptian branch includes none other than prominent writer Nawal al Saadawi... Exactly. I rest my case.

‘The reason for organising this Pakistan Day is twofold,’ Bano says. ‘Our primary aim is to commemorate the horrific earthquake that hit Pakistan on 8 October last year, leaving eighty thousand people dead and over three-and-a-half million homeless. This being organised by Gender Concerns International, it goes without saying that we also wish to raise awareness and funds to help relieve the plight of Pakistani women in particular.’

Bano’s timing is impeccable—what better moment to organise such an event than in the holy month of Ramadan, a month which in essence is about charity, about caring for those who are less welloff. And with half a million Pakistanis still homeless, I’d say they definitely qualify as being in dire need.

As the day got underway, the big hall

SANSTITRE

12-18 October 2006

of the KIT Tropentheater gradually filled with what must have been hundreds of people, a large number being young Pakistani boys and girls blessed with dashing good looks. And not a burka in sight. (How else would I have known about the looks?)

Some had come for the debate on gender issues, which turned out a bit of a non-event, according to Mohammad Amer: ‘This was not a proper debate at all and there was no room for tricky questions, for instance, about the role religious Muslim zealots played in denying female aid workers entry in the disaster-stricken areas.’

Most, however, had come to see Sheema Kermani and Khamisu Khan, two living legends in Pakistan, and not just for Kermani’s classical dance, either—in her home country she is wellknown for her outspoken feminist views.

Just before Iftar, the traditional breaking of the fast, we were treated to a virtuoso performance from alghoza player Khamisu Khan, who was accompanied by a single tabla player. An alghoza is an instrument made up of two flutes of equal length joined together. One Pakistani man dressed in a smart business suit clambered on to the stage and danced around like a whirling dervish, going faster and faster, in sync with the applauding audience.

This was definitely a most enjoyable Ramadan gathering, showing a different side of Pakistan, with its informal character, spontaneity, and Bollywood-style music filling the marble hall. People queued to generously ladle steaming traditional food onto their plates. Let’s hope that they were equally generous when putting money in the collection boxes. www.ramadanfestival.nl

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Berlin

By Richard Cameron Destroyed in WWII and partly rebuilt after that, a decadent underground has been part of Berlin’s appeal since the 1920s. It has the second-largest Turkish population after Istanbul, but there are also a lot of extreme-right sympathisers, mainly in the desolate, former East German ghettoes on the fringes of the city.

Movies: Many have been made in or about Berlin. My favourite used to be Der Himmel über Berlin by Wim Wenders but, since I haven’t seen it for 20 years, maybe it’s not that good after all.

Music: Berlin’s most famous musicians are all from Canada. It started with Peaches, then Gonzales, then Mocky. My favourite Berlin musician at the moment is Planning to Rock, a one—English— woman show.

Celebs: I kiss but don’t tell.

Eat: Currywurst! Especially since there is now organic wurst made from happy cows and pigs. But it’s all about the sauce.

Drink: At Absinth Depot at Weinmeisterstrasse for a toxic brew or two. Great Geist and Brand as well.

Overrated: West Berlin Underrated: East Berlin’s Arbeiter Paradises.

High culture: The Berliner Philharmoniker at home at the Philharmonie on Kemperplatz, the Hamburger Bahnhof museum (Invalidenstrasse 50-51), Karl Marx Allee, the restaurant on top of the Fernsehturm on Alexanderplatz, revolving 330 metres above the city (just don’t go there for the food).

Low life: Seek and ye shall find.

Cherished memory: Hitler wanted to rebuild the city, rename it Germania and make it the capital of Europe. Oh, and biking in the summer.

Stay: There are good apartment hotels all over town—look on the internet.

Travel: Transavia flies to Tegel, from around €120.

YOU AR LET ME SHOW YOU MY HOMETOWN…

Delft

By Anneloes van Gaalen Wedged between bigger brothers Den Haag and Rotterdam, Delft is famous for its blue-and-white earthenware, an acclaimed technical university and, last but not least, a church full of dead Royals.

Movies: You’d think 2003’s Girl with a Pearl Earring would be shot in Vermeer’s hometown; in fact, it was shot on the Venice set built in Luxembourg for Secret Passage and modified to look more like Delft. Those Hollywood people!

Music: Nico ‘Foxie Foxtrot’ Haak, DJ/musician Wessel van Diepen and one of Holland’s most successful pop groups ever: Tee-Set, whose claim to fame is 1970 hit song ‘Ma Belle Amie’.

Celebs: Got a minute? Willem van Oranje, Hugo de Groot, Frederik Hendrik van Oranje, Johannes Vermeer, Antoni van Leeuwenhoek, Mariska Hulscher, Alexander Pechtold, Wessel van Diepen, Ricky Koole, Eva Duijvestein and Jody Bernal.

Eat: Home-made apple pie at Kobus Kuch on the Beestenmarkt. A real Delft institution.

Overrated: That it’s a college town; if you want some serious fun you have to leave town.

Underrated: That it’s a kinder, gentler Amsterdam.

12-18 October 2006

SOME PLACES, LIKE PARIS, MAY BE OVERRATED BY SOME. OTHERS LIKE, UM, OSS ARE DESPERATELY UNDERRATED. BUT IF IT’S YOUR OWN HOMETOWN, THEN THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT YOU’LL WANT TO SHOW VISITORS. SO WE ASKED SOME FOLK TO SHOW YOU AROUND THE TOWN THAT RESONATES FOR THEM. FOR SOME THAT’S DEN HAAG, FOR OTHERS IT’S SULAIMANIYA… Illustrations by Carolyn Ridsdale

High culture: De Nieuwe Kerk. It houses dead Royals and a whole bunch of other deceased, which makes a visit un peu macabre, but the climb up the tower and the stained-glass windows make up for a lot.

Low life: See above.

Cherished memory: It’s small and there’s no nightlife and everybody wants to leave once they hit 18, but it’s home.

Stay: Next to the Nieuwe Kerk, Herberg de Emauspoort (Vrouwenregt 9-11) is the perfect setting for a romantic getaway. There are several petite hotel rooms (doubles from €85) but real lovebirds stay in one of the two Gypsy Caravans, located in the courtyard of the hotel.

Travel: A 50-minute train ride from Centraal Station, €19.70 return.

Den Haag

By Floris Dogterom Not much goes on in Den Haag, apart from national politics, international diplomacy and mediocre football. But the historical centre is beautiful, there’s a couple of top-notch museums, and the sense of humour of the common man is straightforward, to say the least (see Low life).

Movies: Wonderful shots of 19th-century Den Haag can be seen in Eline Vere (1991), a rather plotless movie based on Haagse writer and dandy Louis Couperus’s book about the higher circles of the time.

Music: In the 1960s, the city was the epicentre of Nederbeat, like Livin’ Blues and Golden Earring. Today, Anouk, Kane and

Di-Rect are its acclaimed bands. Enough said?

Celebs: Uberhagenaar Barry Hay, singer of Golden Earring, left for Amsterdam after 40-odd years. Now why would that be?

Eat: Fish. Scheveningen is Den Haag’s fishing port, where you’ll find many fine fish restaurants.

Drink: Bieâh (beer).

Overrated: The international character.

True, the International Court of Justice and all the embassies are here, but that’s all highbrow folks who don’t mix with the locals. Den Haag is rather provincial, really.

Underrated: Plein 1813 is the kind of square that you’d stumble upon in Brussels, Vienna or Paris. The monument in the middle of a Place d’Etoile kind of lay-

12-18 October 2006

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RE HERE

and innumerable YBAs. Gilbert and George eat dinner nightly at the same Turkish restaurant on Stoke Newington Road.

Eat: Great Vietnamese in south-east Hackney, Turkish in Dalston, fish and chips from Faulkners on Kingsland Road.

Drink: A pint of London Pride at the estimable Prince George (40 Parkholme Road).

Overrated: Small artistic community = good. Art produced by small artistic community = not always so good.

Underrated: The Turkish Food Centre on Ridley Road—bread, olives, veg and baklava at amazingly cheap prices.

High culture: The Arcola Theatre (27 Arcola Street), a warehouse space that stages innovative productions; Bardens Boudoir (33-34 Stoke Newington Road), a shambolic basement rock venue; the Vortex jazz club (11 Gillett Street) which recently relocated to the area.

Low life: A careworn Victorian gin palace, Ye Olde Axe (69 Hackney Road) is one of the area’s most handsome pubs, but punters only have eyes for the strippers.

Cherished memory: Walking into the local pub to bump into a friend I’d not seen for 10 years, and finding that we live 200 yards apart. Hackney’s that sort of place.

Stay: The best budget option near to Hackney is the Hoxton Lodge (81 Great Eastern Street), doubles from £59.

Travel: KLM and VLM run flights from Schiphol to City Airport, from €166, then a 30-minute train ride to Dalston Kingsland station.

Hamburg

By Sarah Gehrke

out commemorates the birth of the modern Dutch state in 1813. It’s unique in the Netherlands for its grandeur, with the triumphant virgin on top.

High culture: The Gemeentemuseum (Stadhouderslaan 41) possesses the largest collection of Mondriaans in the world, including the famous ‘Victory Boogie Woogie’, and its Hague School paintings are not to be missed. The building itself was Berlage’s last big project.

Low life: A certain part of the population is into using life-threatening diseases as swear words. For example, if someone shouts ‘Krijg de kanker!’, they want you to get cancer. Other popular afflictions used in Haagse curses include tering (tuberculosis), tyfus (typhoid) and cholera.

Cherished memory: A quiet Sunday morning in the mid-1970s, on the corner of Parkstraat and Kneuterdijk. German soldiers march through the streets, while onlookers cheer them on. The sound of the iron studs on the soldier’s boots on the street is heard in the nearby Kloosterkerk, where, at that moment, I am supposed to listen to Christian tales. The soldiers were actors: Verhoeven was shooting Soldaat van Oranje, his international breakthrough film.

Stay: Hotel des Indes (Lange Voorhout 54-56), for that touch of colonial chic.

Don’t forget to bring truckloads of money—doubles start at €175.

Travel: A 50-minute train ride from Centraal Station: €17.50 return. A threeand-a-half hour bike ride (go to Zandvoort, turn south, follow the coast: free.

Hackney

By Will Fulford-Jones For years a beleaguered corner of East London, Hackney is now the city’s most interesting neighbourhood, enlivened by a rich mix of residents and a tough, inspiring cultural scene. London’s Pijp, more or less.

Movies: Mike Leigh’s incomparably bleak Naked (1993) was set in and around Dalston. Fassett Square is reputedly the inspiration for Albert Square in EastEnders. Bullet Boy (2004) spotlighted the area’s notorious crime problems.

Music: Razorlight sang about Dalston on their first album, but don’t let that put you off.

Celebs: Residents include writer Iain Sinclair, Green Gartside of Scritti Politti

Northern German city which used to be one of Europe’s most important ports and trade centres, Hamburg is nowadays known for its laid-back atmosphere, cool nightlife and beautiful scenery created by two rivers and many canals.

Movies: Tomorrow Never Dies featured Pierce Brosnan doing heroic things all round town. Don’t use the film for orientation though, as several important buildings were relocated in post-production and are, in fact, completely elsewhere. Director du jour Fatih Akin is from the Altona neighbourhood.

Music: Ever since The Beatles popped Preludin to get through night-long gigs on the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s been home to a vibrant music scene: in the ’90s the Hamburger Schule produced the country’s best indie bands and later on, it was centre of the German hiphop craze.

Celebs: Well, Karl Lagerfeld’s from Hamburg. And Jil Sander. They’ve both left, though.

Eat: Labskaus, a puree made out of last week’s leftovers, enriched with roast beef and herring, and topped with a fried egg.

It looks even more disgusting than it sounds. Try it if you dare.

Drink: Astra, the local beer. Drink from the bottle, which is brown and round and fits perfectly in the hand.

Overrated: The ‘beach clubs’. Hipster wannabes sitting by little heaps of sand, drinking lukewarm Corona.

Underrated: The real beach. Sit on the riverbank and watch the harbour shine its pink and orange glow into the night, for real industrial romance. Be sure to have a few bottles of Astra with you.

Amsterdam Weekly

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12-18 October 2006

Greetings from Berlin

High culture: For modern art, Galerie der Gegenwart. For theatre, Schauspielhaus and Thalia Theater. For classical music, Staatsoper and Musikhalle.

Low life: The dingy bars of St Pauli’s side-alleys allow you to booze until the sun comes up and after—some throw their last guests out on the street as late as 10 a.m.

Cherished memory: Summer hangover days following all-nighters in aforementioned bars are best spent lazing around in the beautiful Jenischpark, just outside the centre.

Stay: Fancy and stylish: Design Hotel east (Simon-von-Utrecht Strasse 31), doubles from €140. Less expensive and also cool is Woge (Kleine Rainstrasse 24-26), from €43.

Travel: Lufthansa flies to Hamburg, from €40 up. The five-and-a-half hour train ride from Centraal Station to Hamburg Hauptbahnhof costs around €70.

Hasbrouck Heights

By Karina Hof Across the Hudson from Manhattan, Hasbrouck Heights, New Jersey, was established in 1664 as a post for Dutch colonists to trade with Hackensack Indians. Today, it’s bona fide suburbia, with 12,000 residents living in one-and-a-half square miles at an elevation of 130 feet.

Movies: The Bendix Diner on Route 17 North featured in chick flick Boys on the Side, as did the original Jersey Girl.

Down Route 17 South—technically in the neighbouring town of Lodi—is Satin Dolls, aka the Bada Bing, Tony Soprano’s infamous gentlemen’s club.

Music: Billie Joel sings about neighbouring Hackensack in ‘Movin’ Out’ and no doubt by ‘movin’ up’ he meant to the Heights.

Celebs: Forget Sinatra, this is the hometown of Jason Biggs, the American Pie actor whom I, as erstwhile ballerina, once shared the stage with at Miss Edie’s

Greetings from Hamburg

Labskaus, a puree made out of last week’s leftovers, enriched with roast beef and herring, and topped with a fried egg. It looks even more disgusting than it sounds. Try it if you dare.

dance school.

Eat: Large Lovey’s pepperoni pizza.

Drink: Any ‘chino’-suffixed coffee drink from Dunkin’ Donuts, best if sipped at any one of several Korean nail salons in town.

Overrated: Hummers as the new soccer mom mobile.

Underrated: Spectacular views of the NYC skyline.

High culture: The Aviation Hall of Fame and Museum of New Jersey at Teterboro Airport, where private jets and incognito celebs land. (Back in the big hair days, I often spotted Bon Jovi’s purple plane there.)

Low life: Lodi.

Cherished memory: Circa 1987, while remodelling our attic room, carpenter Mike M came upon an unexpected find in old aircon vents: handgun, bullets and holster. Theory holds that the items belonged to one of the chauffeurs who once lived in our home to service the mobster occupants of the Tudor mansion across the street. Mrs I, the current 90something-year-old inhabitant, confirmed the rumours that her home was outfitted for its residents of the 1940s: a secret door in the basement opens onto a subterranean passage running two blocks northwards to ‘The Red House’, alleged long-time residence of Heights mafiosi. I like to think of my driveway as the former starting point for grand mobster getaways.

Stay: The Hilton Hasbrouck Heights/Meadowlands (650 Terrace

Avenue), doubles from $129.

Travel: Depending on the season, a flight from Schiphol to Newark Airport costs an average of $700. Take taxi or bus up the Jersey Turnpike to exit 16W. (And watch your back.)

Jakarta

By Linawati Sidarto The first Dutch ship anchored in humid, colourful Jakarta in 1596. The Dutch, who named the city Batavia, were present in Indonesia for over three centuries, first as traders and later as colonisers. Holland’s imprint is still visible in the form of numerous buildings dotting the old centre.

Movies: Thought you saw it in The Year of Living Dangerously, with Mel Gibson and Sigourney Weaver in tumultuous Jakarta of the 1960s? Wrong. The film was shot in Malaysia and the Philippines, since the then-authoritarian government barred anything politically sensitive.

Music: There may be some weepy Dutch songs from the good ol’ colonial days which have the word ‘Batavia’ somewhere hidden inside, but I (thank god) don’t know them.

Celebs: Huh? But the likes of Mick Jagger and Madonna do skip it regularly to go straight on to tranquil Bali.

Eat: Durian, a thorny fruit with big seeds covered with a creamy substance emitting a heavenly—or hellish, depending on your taste—smell.

Drink: Tuak, a palm wine originating from a Christian area in northern Suma-

tra. It’s available at Lapo Tuak stalls around the parking lot in Senayan, an area behind parliament. Pure nightmare, with various degrees of alcohol, from mind-numbing to brain-cell killer.

Overrated: Gigantic shopping malls.

Underrated: Ragunan Zoo—big and beautiful, and a good place to do local tourist watching.

High culture: Don’t miss Kota, the old city centre. Hidden amongst the garish bathroom-tile buildings are old, beautiful Dutch Colonial and Chinese buildings.

Low life: Join the locals at the dangdut clubs at Jalan Mangga Besar Raya, which play danceable folk tunes with faint reminders of Arabic and Indian rhythms.

Cherished memory: Slicing through jam-packed traffic on an ojek, Jakarta’s motorcycle taxi. Steel nerves are sometimes necessary.

Stay: Top-of-the-bill is boutique hotel The Dharmawangsa (Jl. Brawijaya Raya 26), doubles from $300. For smaller budgets, try the losmens (youth hostels) at Jalan Jaksa in the city centre.

Travel: KLM flies direct, from around €800.

New Orleans

By Elizabeth Kleinveld The City that Care Forgot is located 108 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, nestling on the Mississippi River. Founded by Iberville de Bienville in 1718, New Orleans’ French Quarter—one of the few sections which didn’t flood after Hurricane Katrina—is more reminiscent of Barcelona than Paris. The original architecture was destroyed by fire in 1788 when the Spanish occupied the city.

Music: The city has long been the inspiration of musicians, from the King of Rock ’n’ Roll to the King of Country, from Fats Domino to Louis Armstrong.

Movies: New Orleans has been captured in many movies, including, The Big Easy, voodoo flick Angel Heart and Pretty

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Greetings from New Orleans

Baby, which depicted life in Storyville, the red light district, and launched Brooke Shields’ career.

Celebs: Jude Law did it with the nanny here in March 2005. Sean Penn plucked New Orleanians from the flood water, and Brad Pitt continues his crusade to bring back the city via Global Green.

Eat: A dish as rich as the Rockefeller’s.

No other dish in American history has received attention and praise like Antoine’s Oysters Rockefeller. But other oyster dishes are not to be missed, such as po-boys (from ‘poor boys’), or raw oysters with the local cocktail sauce—enough Tabasco, horseradish and Worcester sauce to make you turn green.

Drink: A Hurricane (no relation) from Pat O’Brien’s (718 St Peter Street), a Monsoon from Port of Call (838 Esplanade Avenue), and green beer at Parasols (2533 Constance Street) on St Paddy’s Day. High culture: NOMA (1 Collins Diboll Circle), well-known for its strength in American art, photography, glass, African and Japanese works. For those particularly interested in Southern art, the Ogden Museum (925 Camp Street) is a must. For music lovers, Tipitina’s (501 Napoleon Avenue) is the place to go.

Low life: The strips joints and transsexual shows on Bourbon Street, especially the one where the woman’s legs swing out the window.

Stay: The Monteleone (214 Rue Royale), doubles from $165, on the corner of Royal and Iberville in the French Quarter, is one of the few family-owned hotels in the city.

Travel: KLM has the most options, ranging from €500 to €1200 depending on season. There are no direct flights.

Oss

By Willem Geerts Home town of the pill, Unox rookworst, the political party SP and their leader Jan Marijnissen. A historical mixture of gangs, abusive Catholic priests and a

Greetings from St Petersburg

Laverbread, a seaweedy mush—and acquired taste—that’ll pump you full of iron like Popeye, from the covered market on Oxford Street.

Roman grafheuvel.

Movies: None that I know, but check out the literature: De affaire-Oss: Van conflict tot nationale rel by Jos Smeets and Het geheim van Oss: Een geschiedenis van de SP by Kees Slager—really great books for non-Oss citizens.

Music: The songs ‘Blijen Ossenaar’ and ‘Kei Gezellig’ by the legendary Jacques le Filatheliste, and Made in Oss by the experimental stonerrockers Astrosoniq.

Celebs: Lots of gossip about everyone all the time. Except for national musical star Maaike Widdershoven, who comes across as pretty clean.

Eat: Osse bollen (better than Bossche bollen).

Drink: Gewoon n pilske.

Overrated: Industry (Unox, Organon, Phillips) has all for the most part gone abroad.

Underrated: The fact that high culture and a total lack of interest in high culture go hand in hand.

High culture: Jan Cunen Museum (Molenstraat 65) is one of the best smaller contemporary art museums in the country. Also check out all the postindustrial architecture and public art in the centre.

Low life: Wherever you look.

Most cherished memory: Ask when you bump into me. There’s too much to tell.

Stay: At my mum’s place.

Travel: A 90-minute train ride from Centraal Station via Den Bosch, €26.50 return. Get off at Oss West for a more suburban introduction, Oss Centraal for the more urban one.

Paris

By André Dryansky Where else can you start the day at firstcentury Roman baths, perk up with Algerian mint tea, swing through the Middle Ages at Notre-Dame de Paris, catch the latest film from Tajikistan, get the smell of the guillotine at La Conciergerie, chow down Laotian tripe with sticky rice for dinner and finish off with a flamencoswing concert under the circus tent of L’été Gitan near the wastelands along the Périphérique? Paris is a city of voyages: in time, in space, in the mind, in the soul.

Movies: The sharp contrast between two films, both set in the same arrondissement—le dix-huitième—Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Amélie and Mahmoud Zemmouri’s Beur-Blanc-Rouge.They depict Montmartre vs Barbès, the eternal romantic feeling vs the stadium riots at the FranceAlgeria game in October 2001, la délicieuse petite francaise vs Ibrahima getting angry.

Music: Whose heart does not shake to Piaf?

Celebs: Paris is sick with celebrity worship.

Eat: A divine Sephardic Jewish M’praila somewhere in the Faubourg Montmartre: this garlic-mint-lamb-bean stew, with countless Tunisian spices, is a wonder on a bed of steaming couscous.

Drink: Le Monaco! Warm second-rate Alsatian beer, lemonade and grenadine.

(Or is it just grenadine and Kronenbourg?

It’s hard to tell.)

Overrated: Its splendour. Most of the city is a gritty, pissy ants’ nest choking in exhaust.

Underrated: The friendliness of the Parisians. If you go about things in a warm and relaxed way, the human experience of Paris can be positively touching.

High culture: The Eiffel Tower. It is a lady, yet she is built of bars and bolts. A thousand feet of iron darting into the sky!

Gratuitous and sublime, it is a work of art.

Low life: There is something for everybody.

Cherished memory: An all-night walk finishing off at a Montmartre cafe at 4.45 a.m., with street sweepers enjoying their petit blanc—white wine—to start the day.

Stay: For €375, buy a night of romance and faded luxury at the Raphael (17 Avenue Kleber). Otherwise, there’s a pleasant youth hostel at 76 Avenue FelixFaure, near the Rue du Commerce in the 15th: a great day-to-day neighbourhood, with real Parisian charm, where the tourists never venture.

Travel: Amsterdam to Antwerp-Berchem then Antwerp-Berchem to Lille, via the Belgian line, and Lille to Paris on the TGV. It costs about €70 one-way, takes around six-and-a-quarter hours and you get a great view of Belgium and France on top of it all.

St Petersburg

By Sophia Kornienko Pieter, as the locals call it, was conceived as a clone of Amsterdam, but came out more ostentatious and intimidating, perfect as capital of the Empire’s two most glorious centuries in its history, as well its cradle of revolution, which put an end to the glory in 1917. Built by foreigners, St Petersburg is the most Western Russia can get and a romantic antidote to the raging glamour of Moscow.

Movies: Its most recent appearance on international screens was as war-time Berlin in Oliver Hirschbiegel’s 2004 Der Untergang. No matter that the site of numerous Nazi-uniformed soldiers insulted many elderly residents—no Nazi soldier

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Greetings from Den Haag has ever set foot here, as the city didn’t surrender despite a 900-day siege. The location was chosen for budget reasons.

Some streets did not even have to be decorated—they still looked like they had just been bombed.

Music: Musically, the city has two faces.

One is that of Valeri Gergiev, the worldfamous conductor and director of the Mariinsky Opera and Ballet Theatre, as well as the city’s classic chapel, two philharmonic halls and a conservatoire. The other is the dissident music experimentalists, such as rock guru Boris Grebenschikov and the late ‘Russian Buñuel’, legendary Sergei Kuriokhin.

Celebs: In contemporary St Petersburg, the biggest celebrities are its native politicians, including President Putin and most of his circle at the Kremlin, city governor Valentina Matvienko (formerly famous for her drinking talents) and children of the aforementioned. Even the country’s most notorious pop TV diva Ksenia Sobchak, a

reality show anchor in Moscow, is the daughter of a former mayor.

Eat: Dark bread and vodka at The Idiot café on Moika for real Dostoyevsky blues.

For less poetic types, blinis with caviar are available as fast food in outdoor kiosks.

Also delicious is gribnoy—mushroom soup with sour cream.

Drink: See above.

Overrated: The city’s aristocratic facade.

Try to also get a peep into the backyards.

Underrated: Wild hallucinogenic mushrooms and beaches.

High culture: This is difficult, because ‘St Petersburg’ is Russian for ‘culture’. Absolute musts are The Hermitage (if you’re not yet tired of Rembrandt), St Isaaks’ Cathedral, Church of Spilt Blood and the Versailles-like suburb of Peterhoff.

Low life: The city circus—not for Greenpeace activists.

Cherished memory: When my Dutch boyfriend was visiting, I took him ‘bridgewatching’. In St P, the massive bridges across the Neva river are raised for several hours in the middle of the night. The view is spectacular, especially during the White Night season of June and July, when the sun hardly sets. We ran from one bridge to another to witness all of them go high up, only to discover later that we were cut off on one of the city’s islands. We had to drink endless cups of tea at a night café, waiting to cross back again in the morning.

Stay: As an alternative to the city’s many expensive hotels, try Matisov Domik (Naberezhnaya Priazhki 3/1), a small guest house on a canal, with prices ranging from €65 to €225. Make sure you pick the right door—the building next to it is a madhouse.

Travel: The five-million-strong city has

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Greetings from Sulaimaniya only one small international airport, Pulkovo II. The much larger Pulkovo I serves domestic flights. That and the poor service at Pulkovo Airlines is all that remains from the Soviet era, as opposed to the prices which are perfectly Western. The cheapest return flight will cost around €350 euros.

No budget airlines fly to St Petersburg.

Sarajevo

By Antonije Zalica Surrounded by beautiful mountains, Sarajevo is an ancient city that has always been at the crossroads of different cultures. One can smell old Ottoman traditions, feel 19th-century Central European milieu and experience post-WWII modernism. One 300-m circle includes a mosque, a synagogue, an Orthodox church and a Roman Catholic cathedral.

Movies: Cult WWII resistance thriller Walter Defends Sarajevo (1972) was one of most popular movies in China in the

1970s. The historical The Day That Shook The World (1975) was nominated for an Oscar. Srdjan Vuletic’s Summer in the Golden Valley (2003), Pjer Zalica’s Days and Hours (2005) and Jasmila Zbanic’s Grbavica (2006) represent the alreadycelebrated new Bosnian film generation.

There are also numerous international coproductions about the siege, but these don’t deserve a mention.

Music: Sevdah is the miraculous traditional music of Bosnia and Herzegovina—and the magnificent Mostar Sevdah Reunion is a good place to start. Since the early 1960s, Sarajevo has been the main pop and rock music centre in the region with bands like Indexi, Bijelo Dugme (featuring Goran Bregovic), Plavi Orkestar and lot of others. The powerful energy of these bands can be recognised today as influential in the Seattle-based alternative rock of Kultur Shock led by Sarajevian singer Gino Jevdjevic.

Celebs: Walking into Nick Nolte (drunk) during the Sarajevo Film Festival or meeting Bono at a party at a friend’s house. As the saying goes: ‘Nobody is a star in Sarajevo!’

Eat: C´evapcˇic´i. A visit to Sarajevo won’t make sense if you haven’t tasted these miced meat wonders.

Drink: S˘ljivovica—plum brandy—is world-famous. Sarajevo also has some of the best beers in Europe. Non-alcohol drinkers should try boza, a refreshing, corn-based drink.

Overrated: The war. It’s not the only thing that makes Sarajevo famous.

Underrated: The surrounding natural beauty.

High culture: The Sarajevo Film Festival

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Diyarbakir in South Eastern Turkey, then three-and-a-half hours by car to the border, and from there, seven hours to Sulaimaniya.

from the city centre. Connections are pretty good; most European airlines go to Sarajevo, from €300 to €400.

Sulaimaniya

Swansea

By Goran Baba Ali

Greetings from Sarajevo in August, Jazz Fest Sarajevo, Jewish Museum, Sarajevo Winter Cultural Festival, National Gallery, Sarajevo Haggadah in the National Museum, MESS theatre festival, Nights of Bascarsija.

Low life: Most visitors have never seen the hill suburbs of old Sarajevo known as mahalas—but it is here that one can find the city’s pure soul. The ‘war tours’ also grab one’s attention.

Cherished memory: The extremely communicative taxi drivers are something special—they like to tell you everything about themselves and have no secrets at all! Travelling by taxi sometimes feels like reading a very good short story. Once I had a driver who wrote poetry, another time, some ex-rock ’n’ roll singer; the poetry was OK, but singing together always makes rides more fun. Taxis are cheap and easy to catch.

Stay: Smaller, private hotels in the old town, known to the locals as konaks.

Travel: The airport is about 10 kilometres

The cultural centre of the Kurdistan region in Iraq, Sulaimaniya is located in a mountainous area, 900 metres above sea level. Although there is evidence of Neolithic people, the city itself is relatively new, founded in 1784 by a Kurdish prince named Ibrahim Pashay Baban.

Because of the rapid development in the last few years, little original architecture remains.

Movies: Sulaimaniya has never been in any Western movies, just Kurdish ones.

Because of its political history, it does however feature in a few documentaries.

Music: The city is often sung about in Kurdish songs.

Celebs: The novelist Bakhtiar Ali is read by everyone, and his name appears daily in almost every newspaper and magazine.

Eat: The famous fatty kebabs, available at any kebabkhana.

Drink: No distinguished local drinks here, just dark, heavy tea. In the past, araq was the most drunk alcohol—only by men—now it is beer.

Overrated: The patriotism and heroic nationalism of the inhabitants.

Underrated: The capacity of women and young people.

High culture: Traditionally, the city is a hothouse for poets, writers, musicians and artists, but because of the political situation, there are no great theatres and

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By Kim Renfrew

Greetings from Jakarta concert buildings. However, the cultural realm is developing.

Low life: Chaikhanas, or tea houses, in downtown Sulaimaniya, where men drink tea and play dominoes or backgammon.

Cherished memory: In most restaurants and cafes—even the chic ones—the waiter doesn’t stand face-toface with you, but sideways with his face turned to you. You feel as if you have done something very wrong, because you’ve chosen to eat in his restaurant.

Stay: The Palace Hotel and Hotel Ashty on the main road to the city centre.

There are also some nice motels dotted round town.

Travel: An experience. Sometimes you can fly directly from Amsterdam, but you can’t be sure whether you’ll get a return flight. Otherwise, via Dusseldorf or Frankfurt to Hawler (Erbil), and from there two hours by car. The safest—but longest—way is to fly to Istanbul then to

‘Ugly, lovely town’ on the edge of the Atlantic, Swansea aka Abertawe began in the 11th century, thrived in the industrial revolution, was bombed to bits in WWII, and is now a hard-drinking, dyed red-inthe-wool socialist stronghold in post-industrial decline—with great beaches.

Movies: Or indeed, ‘Pretty shitty city’, as it’s beautifully put in Kevin Allen’s 1997 Twin Town, with Rhys and Lyr Ifans playing joyriders who take on a rugby club owner and a karaoke king to avenge their injured steelworker father. All of these figure large in lives of Swansea citizens.

Really. Catherine Zeta Jones has taken the ’Tawe to Hollywood.

Music: At one end, bouffant rocker Bonnie Tyler, who has been known to zip up and down the Mumbles Road in a convertible, listening to ‘Total Eclipse of the Heart’. At the other, The Velvet Underground’s musical brainbox, John Cale, who grew up down the road in Garnant.

Celebs: Dylan Thomas, whose words begin this article, is most famous for having an Amsterdam hotel named after him, but wrote some poems, too. Grew up at 5 Cwmdonkin Drive, imbibed prodigiously—as did your guide—in the Uplands Tavern (42 Uplands Crescent), died of drink in NYC. Also called Swansea ‘the graveyard of ambition’. His Imperial

12

Majesty Haile Selassie stayed in Penllegaer after Italy invaded Abyssinia, and regularly visited Sketty’s Bible College. And Jones the Film—one met her once, don’t you know, in Martha’s Vineyard. Not the jet-set playpen off Cape Cod—the shit night club on the Kingsway.

Eat: Laverbread, a seaweedy mush—and acquired taste—that’ll pump you full of iron like Popeye, from the covered market on Oxford Street.

Drink: Your way along the notorious ‘Mumbles Mile’. Have a drink in every pub lining the beautiful sweep of bay from the West Cross Inn at one end, to the one on the pier which no one can remember the name of (they’re too drunk) at the other.

Stick to halves: there are lots.

Amsterdam Weekly Overrated: The Dylan Thomas Centre.

Opened by Jimmy Carter, of all people, in 1995 to celebrate the British Year of Literature, it’s now a glorified community centre.

Underrated: The view from Pant-y-Celyn Road in Townhill. Like they say round these parts: stonkin’.

High culture: The Brangwyn Panels in the Guildhall. The massive wall-paintings—outshining everything in Brugge’s Brangwyn Museum—were made by Frank Brangwyn for the Houses of Parliament but were rejected, so ended up here.

Low life: Originally intended as Parisianstyle ‘café quarter’—yeah, and I’m Simone de Beauvoir—Wind Street is now a Bacchanalian backyard awash with vomit and

broken bodies. Spend an evening here if you want to appear in a BBC feature on the perils of binge-drinking.

Cherished memory: When my AuntieFrances-two-doors-down died, her house was bought by unknown or unknowns, redecorated, and then lay empty ever after.

‘That’s for when the Krays come out of prison,’ they would say. Mind you, they said that about every empty property that hadn’t actually fallen down yet. The connection between the East End’s most notorious criminal gang and South Wales has yet to be established.

Stay: boutique hotel Morgans (Somerset Place) has great rooms (from £125) and a good restaurant in old shipping offices near the Marina.

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Travel: KLM flies from Schiphol to Cardiff International from €188, then a 50-minute train journey to Swansea.

Vienna

By Gabbi Werner Vienna is a place where people know their food and drink and aren’t ashamed to admit it. The best way to experience it is by becoming one with the locals and indulging in a feeding frenzy for a couple of days.

Movies: Films reveal this epicurean pedigree, though Liliana Cavani’s The Night Porter does not show the regular Viennese way of strawberry-jelly eating.

Music: Ohhhh, Vien-na. It may have made made Ultravox famous, but the song doesn’t mean much to the Viennese.

Celebs: Is changing. It used to be the hangout for the likes of Dutch baritone Marco Bakker. These days it’s Pete Doherty— recently seen busking in front of his hotel.

(After he’d spent all his money on drugs he couldn’t pay the bill for the hotel room he’d just smashed up.)

Eat: Breakfast at Jelinek (Otto Bauergasse 7), a superbly dilapidated kaffeehaus that has never been redecorated since opening decades ago. Lunch at Kunsthallencafe am Karlsplatz (Treitlstrasse 2): it has a huge terrace and great food. Cakes at Aida (branches all over town): the pink formica overdose in combination with the waitresses’ uniforms are just a glimpse of the sweet delights awaiting you. Dinner at Amacord (Rechte Wienzeile 15) or Goldene Glocke (Schönbrunnerstrasse 8)—both are very good. A late-night haute-cuisine snack at Motto (Schönbrunnerstrasse 30), one of the in-crowd places. The amazing kitchen stays open till 4 a.m. and the cocktails keep flowing, too. Oh and be sure to stop at a Würstelstand to eat sausage with senf.

Drink: Schnapps. It’s like jenever but can be made of anything. Pine cones, for instance: it tastes like a walk through the woods.

Overrated: The Mozarthaus. The house that Mozart lived in. It’s exactly that. And they charge a fee to walk through the rooms, bare, save for two or three pianolas.

Underrated: Or maybe the least known to visitors—the Naschmarkt. Two streets, both 400 metres long, with the best food mankind can get.

High culture: The MuseumsQuartier. A huge area in the former meatpacking block, transformed into a fascinating mix of old and new architecture. The Kunsthalle always has fantastic exhibitions, as does the Leopold Museum.

Cherished memory: At the very end of the MuseumsQuartier is Electric Avenue, which houses a mini-racetrack built by the artist Martin Markeli. It’s a psychedelic trip into a boys’ wet dream, and if you bring your own racing car you can join in. I did, for an entire afternoon, and loved it.

Low life: Der Prater, the downtrodden funfair with the giant Ferris wheel—especially on rainy days, when the place is magnificently abandoned and depressing.

Stay: If you can afford it, stay at the Sacher (Philharmonikerstrasse 4), doubles from around €320. If you didn’t win the lottery, the fremdenzimmer Barbara Koller (Schmalzhofgasse 11) is a good bet.

Travel: Low-budget Flyniki will start flights from Amsterdam later this year; otherwise Austrian Airlines flies direct from Schiphol from €150.

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SHORT LIST

The Rapture, Wednesday, Melkweg

THURSDAY12 OCTOBER Classical: Gesualdo’s Stemmen Once upon a time there was a prince who wrote beautiful music: Prince Carlo Gesualdo. But Gesualdo was also a murderer! Who did he murder and why? And was he ever brought to justice? All shall be revealed in this 45-minute musical drama written by Justus van Oel (who plays Gesualdo himself), the Wicked Prince’s servant Gianni suddenly realises that his lord is seeing ghosts. Pursued by a horrible truth—one from which even his flight into music cannot protect him—the Prince is plagued by voices and visions. Touching on themes of heartache and jealousy, this spirited performance includes film elements and performances of the composers madrigals by the Kassiopeia Quintet. Suitable for children over 10. (David Lee) Posthoornkerk, 20.00, 21.30, €5 (under 16), €10.

FRIDAY13 OCTOBER Contemporary music: Gubaidulina Festival She could be an inspiration to us all. Sofia Gubaidulina, born in the Tatar Republic in 1931, saw her unorthodox, theatrical and often spiritual/visionary compositions all but suppressed by the Soviet Union. But she never yielded a semiquaver, and after she was finally introduced to the West in the early 1980s, her career took off in ways that would make Justin Timberlake demand the name of her manager. To mark her 75th birthday, 33 Dutch acolytes have put together a three-day festival, highlighting some of the prolific composer’s lesser-known chamber works, studying her music’s connection to literature, and examining folk influences. Tonight’s concert zooms in on works featuring solo performers; tomorrow turns to scores written for small ensembles; and Sunday showcases pieces for larger forces. Mixed in will be music by contemporaries and influences, like Shostakovich, Schnittke, Webern and more. And yes, Gubaidolina will be sitting in the audience with us, rightfully savouring every note. See ww.gubaidulinafestival.nl. (Steve Schneider) Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €20. Also Saturday and Sunday.

Club: GRAparty On Friday the Thirteenth it’s your turn to be scary. Maybe your dancing style resembles the movements of a deranged windmill. Or maybe its your mask that makes

people jump. On that scariest of nights, students from the Gerrit Rietveld Academie are organising the ninth GRAparty. All are invited to wear home-made masks, while the DJs and the 11 video artists will be working more closely together than before.

Special guests are Revolooser Soundsystem from Sweden, featuring DJs Axel Boven, One Lowe and Crazy Ivan. Dutch DJ Floris and VJs SjocoSjon, SuperSule and Ptrzzz & Yosofine complete the line-up. If you have a liking for funky young artists, wannabeez, graphic design, free art, photography, girlwatching, boywatching and a pounding head the day after: this is where you wanna be. See www.graparty.com. (Floris Dogterom) More, 23.00-05.00, €6.66 before 00.00 or with mask, €10 after.

SATURDAY14 OCTOBER Classical: The Kassiopeia Quintet His madrigals evoke sultry Italian nights full of heartache and unfulfilled love. Notorious for the brutal murder of his wife and her lover, Don Carlo Gesualdo (1566-1613) may have been somewhat sinister, yet the unexpected harmonic twists of his haunting music have earned him a permanent place in the classical repertory. Gesualdo wrote six books of five-voiced madrigals. The highly acclaimed Kassiopeia Quintet will perform the most risqué in three Noorderkerk concerts; in addition, Gesualdo maven Glenn Watkins will introduce each concert in English. Ignored for centuries, discover why Stravinsky and other modern composers think so highly of this criminal composer. (David Lee) Noorderkerk, 14.00, 15.00, €15.50, €45 pass. Also Monday, 19.45 and Tuesday, 19.45, 20.30.

Exhibition: 25 Years of Tetterode Ahhhh, the early ’80s. Amsterdam’s reputation as a haven for drugs, prostitution and free love cannot be forgotten without the squatter’s movement. Images of smoke, royal repugnance and reinstated canal houses had never been so fashionable. All that is left now exists in the minds of those conquerors, who still today abide in one of the city’s oldest squats. Tetterode, nestled between the Da Costakade and Bilderdijkstraat, is a fortress. A former letter-casting foundry, it stands as a bastion for all those things that have (almost) disappeared. Welfare and unemployment bond, refugee advice centre, office for the improvement of sweatshop workers, a crèche, a gay disco called De Trut, an artists’ residency, a theatre, an alternative barber, a masseuse, a traditional cobbler, a Latin music bookie, a metal fabrication studio, a pirate radio station—not to mention all the different folks working and living in this unique building complex. Infamous for not letting anyone with uniforms, suits clipboards inside, tenants of Tetterode instead

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opens their doors to celebrate her 25-year legacy with a 48-hour feast of activities, encompassing the entire complex. (Renée Ridgway) Tetterode, 14.00. Also Sunday.

SUNDAY15 OCTOBER Sport: Amsterdam Marathon Grab a Gatorade, head down to your favourite street corner and get ready to cheer in Dutch, English or Swahili: the 31st annual Amsterdam Marathon is upon us. Some 20,000 runners from all ends of the earth are expected to participate in the event, which has come to be cited as the fourth-fastest marathon in the world. Since first won

by Algerian Boughèra Mohamed El Ouafi, whose coach sent him to Amsterdam for the 1928 Olympics, runners have been cruising over the flat city, all the while dreading the infamous Dutch tegenwind (see course map at www.amsterdammarathon.nl). Last year’s 15,000 spectators at finish-point Olympisch Stadion witnessed Ethiopian Haile Gebrselassie’s new men’s track record clocking in at 2.06.20. The stopwatches are set for 2006. (Karina Hof) Various locations, 10.30 (10.55 Echo 10K, 12.00 Youth Run 2.5K, 14.00 Half Marathon).

Multidisciplinary: World Food Day While celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and Nicole Richie get ever skinnier— look at them sideways and they’d disappear—800 million people suffer from hunger, and 25,000 die each day from malnutrition. World Food Day aims to raise awareness of this problem and promote ‘fair food’ whereby growers are fairly paid for their produce. This year’s event offers a melange of nibbles, interviews, short films and music from, among others, Kraak & Smaak, while politicians battle it out for votes for the most convincing argument relating to fair food and responsible entrepreneurship. See www.fairfood.org. (Celia Layton) Hotel Arena, 15.00-01.00, free before 20.30, €5.

MONDAY16 OCTOBER Jazz: Lou Donaldson Quartet What’s that old Dylan quote? ‘Nothing succeeds like failure’? Alas, in jazz, the opposite is often true. Some folks still can’t forget—or forgive—Lou Donaldson for the funk dates he released in the late1960s, starting with ’67s ‘Alligator Boogaloo’. But 15 years before those attempts at paying a few bills, Donaldson was a reigning post-bop alto virtuoso, rhythmically lively and inventive no end. For the last 20 years, he’s returned to some glorious straight-ahead jazz playing, as usual seasoned with trademark soulfulness. Donaldson has worked with everyone from Milt to Monk, and his great jazz sides on Blue Note have held up magnificently well. He’s in town with a quartet featuring Dr Lonnie Liston Smith on organ, and such combinations ain’t gonna be happening much longer. (Steve Schneider) Bimhuis, 21.00, sold out.

WEDNESDAY18 OCTOBER Pop/Rock: The Rapture With its varying temporal convictions, Evangelical Christianity uses the suffixes ‘pre-’, ‘mid-’ and ‘post-’ to specify when, in relation to the seven-year tribulation period—the first half marked by joy to the world, the second, by destruction—the rapture will occur. If disco and rock are bookends to the tome of contemporary music culture, The Rapture are now making their second coming, post-tribulation. Born in New York City eight years ago, the band have just released Pieces of the People We Love, a fine and sometimes fabulous follow-up to highly-acclaimed first full-length album Echoes. While perhaps not apocalyptical to the après-punk neo-dance rock scene, Pieces is refreshingly eclectic (tunes inspired from Talking Heads to Barry Manilow, with production by Danger Mouse). And as its quintessentially Rapturous song ‘W.A.Y.U.H.’ suggests, danceability is salvation enough. (Karina Hof) Melkweg, 21.00, €15 + membership.

Pop/Rock: The Sunshine Underground These boys from Leeds are a proper party band, you know. When they finished off last April’s London Calling festival, the Kleine Zaal’s floor was quaking so hard from the dancing that one feared we were on the inevitable path to finishing the night one floor down, squirming in the cloakroom—without exiting via the stairs. The majority of the intoxicated audience didn’t care though, and continued with their gleeful springing. While The Sunshine Underground have definitely proven that they can take care of the dancefloor needs, it’s worth noting that they’re also guitarlovin’ indie kids, supplying catchy choruses and pretty hooks as well. They certainly can’t claim that the combination of singalong tunes with a thrusting disco beat is new, but it’s always irresistible. So slide on those dancing shoes and let’s hope the Paradiso floor has been recently reinforced. (Sarah Gehrke) Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.45, €7 + membership.

Send details and images for listing consideration at least two weeks in advance to agenda@amsterdamweekly.nl.

Amsterdam Weekly

12-18 October 2006

Arabian, Andalusian and flamenco influences. Podium Mozaïek, 20.30, €8.50

MUSIC

Singer-songwriter: Eileen Rose Tight and earnest songwriting from the Boston-born performer, in town to launch new album Come the Storm. Maloe Melo, 21.00, €8

Thursday 12 October

Jazz: Metropole Orchestra Joined tonight by versatile pianist Michael Abene. Bimhuis, 21.00, €14

Americana: Boris McCutcheon & The Salt Licks Finger-pickin’ rural folk and Americana. At the heart of the performance is McCutcheon’s voice, known to turn from a whisper to a yodel. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 19.30, €7.50 + membership

Rock: A Frames Fuzzy rock riffage and slacker vocals from the Seattle trio signed to Sub Pop. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.30, €5

Classical: Gesualdo’s Stemmen (See Short List) Posthoornkerk, 20.00, 21.30, €5 under 16, €10

Monday 16 October Classical: The Kassiopeia Quintet (See Saturday) Noorderkerk, 19.45, €15.50

Opera: Sancho Pança Baroque chamber music meets the legend of Don Quixote in this comic opera about his trusty squire Sancho Panza. Performed by I Piccoli Holandesi and The Northern Consort.

Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €22.50 Heavy: 4xLive A Southern Lord/Selfmade God doom and sludge package featuring sets from Church of Misery (Japan), Sourvein (US), Dead Infection (Portugal) and Incardnated (Portugal). Stubnitz, 21.00, €8 Jazz: Ensembles of the Royal Music Conservatory The Chamber Orchestra and Big Band will be unleashing early 20th-century works on the edge of jazz and classical by Erwin Schulhoff, Kurt Weill, George Handy, Robert Greattinger, Pete Rugolo and Franklyn Marks; conducted by Werner Herbers.

Bimhuis, 21.00, €10 Rock: Ponoka, The City Beautiful Volkoren Records presents an evening of indie-pop and moody guitar rock. Winston Kingdom, 21.00, €5 Experimental: k-Tsjoem—Transformed Dreams Evening Featuring Amsterdam electro destroyers Zea and instrumental garage soul outfit Das Aldi Combo.

Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.00, €6

Friday 13 October Classical: Gesualdo’s Stemmen (See Short List) Posthoornkerk, 20.00, 21.30, €5 under 16, €10 Classical: Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra Led by the Austrian conductor and huge star in North America Hans Graf, the orchestra will perform Wagenaar’s prelude to De Cid, Lalo’s Symphonie Espagnole and Mendelssohn’s Scottish Symphony. Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 20.15, €47.50 Singer-songwriter: Beatrice van der Poel Sultry jazzy pop with Van der Poel presenting new album Langzaam Los. Paradiso, Grote Zaal, 20.30, €10 + membership Contemporary: Gubaidulina Festival (See Short List) Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €20 Reggae: Eek-A-Mouse One of Jamaica’s premier reggae stars, Ripton Hilton has seen and done it all.

Melkweg, 21.00, €20 + membership Experimental: Faust Legendary early pioneers of the Krautrock scene, Faust were possibly the most radical and technologically innovative of all the bands. They played a crucial role in breaking the genre to the public, and are duly recognised today for their influence on a host of contemporary musicians—so a chance to catch some avant-garde heroes isn’t to be sniffed at. Stubnitz, 21.00, €10 Experimental: John Peel Day Though primarily a broadcaster in the UK, John Peel reverberated round the world. Now two years after his untimely death, Amsterdam is ready to mark its second John Peel Day with a collection of noisy acts he loved—or would have if given a chance. Acts signed up include Persil, Digger Barnes & VJ Pencil Quincy (DE), Two Pin Din, Downdime (UK) and The Manhattan Love Suicides (UK). OCCII, 21.00, €5 Ska: The Upsessions The Lowlands’ own ska, 2Tone and reggae boys present new disc The New Heavyweight Champion. Bitterzoet, 21.00, free before 00.00 Jazz: Two Portraits of Chet Baker The three star performers Fay Claassen, Jan Menu and Hein Van de Geyn comprise tonight’s programme. Part one is titled

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Classical: Nederlands Philharmonisch Orkest (See Saturday) Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 20.15, €30 Jazz: Lou Donaldson Quartet (See Short List) Bimhuis, 21.00, sold out Appletree Café, see Sunday

Big band: New Cool Collective A modern big band vision for the cool crowd. Sugar Factory, 21.00, €5

‘Remembering the Gerry Mulligan Quartet’, to be followed by ‘Singing 30 Years Later’. Bimhuis, 21.00, €14

Mali blues, featuring Nuru Kane and his band Bayefall Gnawa. Melkweg, 21.00, €16 + membership

Roots: A Band Named Ca$h Tribute to the Man in Black. Maloe Melo, 22.00, €5

Roots: The Vaquetones Baja-Western, roots and twangy Americana from these Orange County pros.

Maloe Melo, 22.00, €10

Jazz: Friday Night Live! Session with Hans Dulfer and Joseph Bowie Band. Toomler, 23.00, free Electronica: Nid & Sancy An auditory lashing from the sordid Belgian electo punk duo. Patronaat, Haarlem, 23.59, €8

Rock: The Come Ons Detroit indie rock with a touch of retro flair. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.30, €6.50 + membership

Sunday 15 October Saturday 14 October Classical: The Kassiopeia Quintet (See Short List) Noorderkerk, 14.00, 15.00, €15.50 Singer-songwriter: Willard Grant Conspiracy (Solo) A solo flight tonight by Willard Grant Conspiracy’s songwriter Robert Fisher renowned for his sombre folk, though recent album Let It Roll showed more upbeat sides to his nature with some horn-tinged rock and experimentation. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 19.00, €8.50 + membership Blues: Southside Johnny and the Asbury Dukes Uplifting soulful blues rock filled with blazing horns and bar room harmonica playing. Support from Eileen Rose. Paradiso, Grote Zaal, 19.30, €22.50 + membership Classical: Gesualdo’s Stemmen (See Short List) Posthoornkerk, 20.00, 21.30, €5 under 16, €10 Opera: Don Giovanni Mozart’s most performed and most popular opera, as performed by the State Opera of Tatarstan. Meervaart, 20.15, €37 Classical: Nederlands Philharmonisch Orkest Performing the Dutch premiere of Maazel’s Music for Violin and Orchestra and Bruckner’s Symphony No.4.

Conducted by Yakov Kreizberg with guest violinist Julia Fischer. Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 20.15, €30 Contemporary: Gubaidulina Festival (See Short List) Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €20 Rock: Human Alert Anarchic salon punk from these Amsterdammers. Also in tow are renowned Rotterdammers Feverdream looking to shift some copies of new CD You Are Happening, while Astrosoniq bring their brand of psychedelic stoner rock to the party.

Melkweg, 20.30, €9 + membership Tango: La Camorra Five young Argentinian musicians reviving the sounds of renowned Tango composer Astor Piazzolla. KIT Tropentheater, 20.30, €20

Classical: Nepomuk Fortepiano Quintet Authentic versions of works by Johann Baptist Cramer, George Onslow and Franz Limmer. Muziekgebouw, 12.00, €20 Classical: Mozart aan de Gracht A Mozart tribute performed by amateur Amsterdam symphony orchestra Con Brio, conducted by Peter Biloen. Tonight the orchestra is joined by Jeannine Caland on violin and Clotilde Verwaerde on fortepiano. Felix Meritis, 12.30, €32.50

Experimental: DNK-Amsterdam Experimental electro-acoustic session featuring Lucio Capese (reeds and electronics) and Toshio Nakamura (electronics).

OT301, 21.30, €4

Tuesday 17 October Classical: The Kassiopeia Quintet (See Saturday) Noorderkerk, 19.45, 20.30, €15.50 Classical: Holland Symfonia Performing Debussy’s Petite Suite, Ron Ford’s Gabriel for trumpet and small orchestra, and Poulenc’s La voix humaine; conducted

by Ed Spanjaard. Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €25 Wasser Umsonnst Guitar rock and pop from Utrecht’s Walker Diver. Offering great guitar melodies, he’s perfect for fans of songwriters like Bob Mould. De Nieuwe Anita, 20.30, €5 Jazz: Jazz Café Weekly live jazz and improv. Zaal 100, 22.00, €3

Classical: Nederlands Philharmonisch Orkest Performing Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto in E, and Bruckner’s Symphony No.4; conducted by Yakov Kreizberg, with guest violinist Julia Fischer. Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 14.15, €30

Rock: The Drones Bluesy garage rock outfit from Melbourne, who have spent much time living and touring Europe these past couple of years. Now promoting new album Gala Mill, they may finally receive some of the acclaim they’ve worked so hard for. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.00, €6 + membership

Hiphop: Appletree Café Mellow beats and rhymes with DJs Carifesta, De Reiger & De Weger. Bitterzoet, 15.00, free

Wednesday 18 October

Opera: Don Giovanni (See Saturday) Meervaart, 15.00, €37 Singer-songwriter: Larkin Grimm A Sunday free folk matinée from the ethereal Providence-based songwriter, who has previously shared bills with contemporaries like Devendra Banhart, Espers and Mi and L’au. Support from Rob Klerkx and Jelle Paulusma. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 15.30, €7.50 + membership Contemporary: Gubaidulina Festival (See Short List) Muziekgebouw, 16.00, free World: Woord in Ruigoord A programme of music and poetry from Iraq, hosted by Hans Plomp. Rodhan al Galadi is one of the key guests. Ruigoord, 16.00, free Electronica: The Knife Swedish electro pop. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 20.00, €15 + membership Classical: London Philharmonic Orchestra Performing Schumann’s Symphony No.4 and Shostakovich’s Symphony No.5; conducted by Kurt Masur, now in his last year as head of the Orchestra. Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 20.15, €75

Singer-songwriter: M Ward With a voice that’s so emotive and thematic, melodic songcraft skills to match, this acoustic songwriter has had masses of positive press thrown at him in North America. No doubt touring with the likes of Bright Eyes raised his profile beyond expectation, yet M Ward is—however fleetingly—a bit of a secret on these shores. Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 19.00, €12.50 + membership Jazz: Randal Corsen Group: Muzik Antiyano Caribbean-flavoured jazz. Concertgebouw, Kleine Zaal, 20.15, €24 Classical: Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra Performances of Dvorák’s Nocturne in B, Bartók’s Second Violin Concerto, and Rimski-Korsakov’s Sheherazade; conducted by Iván Fischer. Concertgebouw, Grote Zaal, 20.15, €52.50 Jazz: Antonio Farao Trio Soulful virtuosity from pianist Farao, joined by bassist Martin Gjakonovsky and drummer Dejan Terzic. Bimhuis, 21.00, €14

Hiphop: Ouderkerk Local Mash Up Local hiphop with Endless, Zebra Dust and Stereotypes. P60, Amstelveen, 21.00, €3.50

Rock: Jet Australian rock ’n’ roll outfit launching their crucial second album Shine On. Melkweg, 20.30, €15 + membership

Latin: Rocket Cinema: Zuco 103 vs Orfeu Negro Opening performance of the audio-visual spectacular that is Rocket Cinema. Dance-friendly Dutch-Brazilian groovers Zuco 103 will be aided by PIPS:lab to create a live soundtrack for the film Orfeu Negro, a 1959 Brazilian masterpiece originally completed by Antonio Carlos Jobim’s famous bossa nova soundtrack. Paradiso, Grote Zaal, 21.00, €16

World: Soirée Senegalaise An emotional mix of Senegalese folk, desert-tinged Moroccan gnawa and

World: LoungeM A Ramadan special with Khalid Bennani, performing Chaabi sounds with a warm mix of

Pop/Rock: The Rapture (See Short List) Melkweg, 21.00, €15 + membership

Jazz: Jeremy Pelt Quartet A young jazz trumpeter to catch, New York-based Pelt has been voted the DownBeat ‘Rising Star Trumpet Player’ for the fourth year in a row. Bimhuis, 21.00, €14

Contemporary: Gubaidulina Festival (See Short List) Muziekgebouw, 20.30, €20

Amsterdam Weekly

12-18 October 2006 Jazz: TryTone Festival This edition of experimental jazz concepts again buldozes many boundaries. Performances from Griot, Storeroom 1 and Zea. Zaal 100, 21.00, €4 Pop/Rock: Club 3voor12 Live radio and TV session featuring Goose, Melomanics and Daniel Haaksman.

Register for tickets at www.3voor12.nl. Desmet Studios, 22.00, free Electronica: Robert Moog Tribute Forget mood music, Moog music is where it’s at. As sad as it was when Mr Bob Moog died last year, it did bring this inspiration to legions of bedroom musicians back into the media, with tributes pouring in to celebrate his technological and musical achievements over the years. Crème Organization and Immaculate Conceptualists present their tribute CD incarnated tonight onstage by many of the recording’s artists. Sugar Factory, 22.00, €12.50 Pop/Rock: The Sunshine Underground (See Short List) Paradiso, Kleine Zaal, 22.45, €7 + membership

Gasten Zonder Grenzen All-night house feest. NDSMwerf, 22.00-08.00, €10 Fragile Breaks Break-friendly sounds. Studio 80, 22.00-late, €5 Cool House, ‘funklectic’ and electro. Hotel Arena, 23.00-04.00, €10 Voltt Edgy techno with a host of surprise guests that won’t disappoint. Stubnitz, 23.00-late, €13 Crossfader Hiphop and dancehall favourites. Melkweg, 23.59, €10 + membership Dance Arena Alternative dance, pop and rock. Melkweg, 23.59, €7 + membership Bassline Featuring a showcase by El.Rod the One Man Army Mixtape, plus DJs Abstract, SP and DJ Cream. Upstairs includes an OI special hosted by DJ Gomes. Paradiso, 23.59-05.00, €12

Sunday 15 October

Electronica: Rocket Cinema: Yellow Submarine The soundtrack to The Beatles’ trippy movie is revitalised with new crunch and eclecticism by Helpende Henk, DJ duo Jansen Met Fortuin and an array of household gadget sound effects. Paradiso, Grote Zaal, 23.00, €6

D’estilo Hiphop, nu-funk, nu-soul and fashion, with Bell & Rima, Bas Kosters, Baas Baguette, Mr Spasovski, Mr Speak, Baby Morel, Elected and Moda Liza.

Studio 80, 20.00, €7.50

CLUBS

Monday 16 October

Rock Hard High voltage rock ’n’ roll all night, including a live set from Italian spandex rockers Hollywood Vampires Sex Department. Winston Kingdom, 22.0003.00, €5

Cheeky Monday Weekly drum ’n’ bass night. Winston Kingdom, 22.00-03.30, €5

Thursday 12 October MicroDixo Lo-fi 8-bit electronica with Stu, Cube-c & Emiglio Laser, Monza and c-men. Studio 80, 20.00, €6 Electrorated Earth-shattering electro with Terry Toner, Kid Goesting and Dion. Winston Kingdom, 21.0003.00, €5 Circus Bezerkus New wave space disco and swamprave. Anything goes with the David Gilmour Girls in the house. Club 8, 22.00-03.00, €5

Tuesday 17 October Bass Culture Roots reggae with the Paqua Roots Soundsystem. Bitterzoet, 22.00-03.00, €5

Wednesday 18 October Visual Sensations Kick-off party for the national VJ competition. Bitterzoet, 21.00-03.00, free before 23.00, €5

Vreemd Twisted takes on electro and performance art. Sugar Factory, 22.30-05.00, €6.99

Friday 13 October Superwoelig A Woelig birthday party with Avion-boys, Rhythms, Ghabiang-boys, La Caz, La Rouge and other surprises. Melkweg, 22.00-late, €16 + membership Ubertomb 301 Ear-punishing sonic fun and bursts of ambience with DJs Hiljef, Morsanek and O Really.

OT301, 22.00-late, free Discocult A broad spectrum of electo with a breakbeat thread tying it all together. Special guest is Bigga Bush, one half of legendary Birmingham-based outfit Rockers Hi-Fi. Sugar Factory, 22.30, €9 ¿Que Pasa? Latin-crossover night with reggae, folk, ska, punk and mestizo. Melkweg, 23.00, €7 + membership Molotov & The Dirty Dirty Dirty House and electro meets urban epileptic, featuring Terry Toner, Philip Young, Victor Coral, Kubus & Simon, The Flexican and many more. Panama, 23.00-04.00, €13 Rauw With Fluffy Target and DJs Joost van Bellen and IDIOTDJ. 11, 23.00-04.00, €15 GRAparty (See Short List) More, 23.00-05.00, €6.66 before 00.00 or with mask, €10 after Paradisoul Hiphop, jazz and soul favourites. Featuring a special for Kindred Spirits offshoot Nod Navigators, DJs include O Boogie and Cinnaman. Paradiso, 23.59-05.00, €10

Saturday 14 October IChiOne Adventurous drum ’n’ bass tunes, live art, freaky visuals and some fine food and drink. Guests include Alpha Omega vs Nubian Minds, plus many more local and international favourites from the jungle scene. Café Pakhuis Wilhelmina, 20.00-03.30, €5

GAY& LESBIAN Thursday 12 October Pimp my Drink Get an extra shot of liquor for €1. PRIK, 16.00-01.00, free Film Night When Night Is Falling, Patricia Rozema’s film exploring the age-old dyke dichotomy of uptight literature professor and free-spirited trapeze artist.

Custom Café Sugar, 20.00-01.00, free

Friday 13 October Vrouwenavond Girls, girls, girls. And a couple of gay men. This week with DJ Ortega. Café Sappho, 21.00, free

Saturday 14 October Twisted Tunes With DJ Bean. PRIK, 22.00-03.00, free Disco Hospital Three rooms of queer underground partying. In the main room: electro, techno, acid, disco and wave. Upstairs are chill-out beats, vodka and cider with DJs Kaseta (Instant Removers), Martijn (Black Box) and Toon (ExcessiveMachine), and VJ AlexEtJeremy. OCCII, 23.00-late, €7

Sunday 15 October

EL Bongo’s Grote Gekke Knuffel Feest Reggae, dance, pop and cuddles. Blijburg, 21.00-03.00, €5

InRealLife Sunday afternoon session for a womenonly crowd. Crea Café, 16.00-21.00

Plan West Rock, hiphop and electro. Club 8, 21.0004.00, €6

Double Bubble This happy hour makes April the busiest bar on gay street. April, 18.00-20.00, free

Versch A/V art and electro, with cinematic and video movements standing as tall as the beats this evening.

Guests include SXNDRX, who’ll be ‘videoboxing’ live on stage, Belgian funker Shameboy and many more.

Sugar Factory, 22.00-05.00, €10

Furball Café A night for hairy chaps. PRIK, 19.0001.00, free Live Jazz en Soul A smooth end to the weekend with a live duo. Soho, 20.30-03.00, free

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Amsterdam Weekly

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Monday 16 October 25 Jaar Café April April has been around since 1981—that’s 175 in gay years. A week-long photo exhibition celebrates the Grand Dame of Reguliersdwarsstraat. Beer and soft drinks are just €1 between 00.00-01.00. April, free

12-18 October 2006

Theatre: Hustlin’ Shakespeare Classic Shakespeare excerpts brought together to form a new musical play.

From salsa to disco, the Bard is entering a brave new world. Let’s hope he likes it. In English. Sugar Factory, 21.00, €12.50

Friday 13 October Theatre: Ducktown (See Thursday) Crea Theater, 20.00, €14

STAGE

Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn (See Thursday) Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50

Thursday 12 October

Theatre: Hustlin’ Shakespeare (See Thursday) Sugar Factory, 21.00, €12.50

Theatre: Ducktown Five original one-act plays set in the red-clay foothills of Appalachia’s Ducktown, Georgia. Theatre group In Players explore the complexities of family relationships in a place where churches outnumber schools and shops. In English. Crea Theater, 20.00, €14 Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn In collaboration with the American Repertory Theatre, Toneelgroep Amsterdam present a stage adaptation of the 1987 Wim Wenders classic Der Himmel über Berlin, about an angel who falls in love with a mortal and seeks to cross over. In English and Dutch. Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50

Performance: Still Life with Man and Woman (See Thursday) Gasthuis, 21.00

Saturday 14 October Theatre: Ducktown (See Thursday) Crea Theater, 14.00, €14 Theatre: Hustlin’ Shakespeare (See Thursday) Sugar Factory, 20.00, €12.50 Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn (See Thursday) Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50 Performance: Still Life with Man and Woman (See Thursday) Gasthuis, 21.00

Sunday 15 October

ART

Theatre: Hustlin’ Shakespeare (See Thursday) Sugar Factory, 15.00, €12.50

Opening

Monday 16 October Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn (See Thursday) Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50 Theatre: Seks. Drugs. Roemi. Theatergroep Pangaea tackle this piece about the lives of young people in Iran, written by native-born Alan Yadegarian. In Dutch. De Balie, 20.30, €12

Tuesday 17 October Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn (See Thursday) Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50 Theatre: Seks. Drugs. Roemi. (See Monday) De Balie, 20.30, €12

Still Life with Man and Woman Performance: Still Life with Man and Woman An absurdist and suspenseful performance which is supposed to take place on a film set, where uninvited apparitions and imaginary friends visit a man and a woman. Based on a scene from Michelangelo Antonioni’s film Blow Up, the themes are love, ghosts and rain-dancing. In English. Gasthuis, 21.00

Iris Kensmil: The Great March, see: Opening

Wednesday 18 October Theatre: Hemel boven Berlijn (See Thursday) Stadsschouwburg, 20.15, €11.50-€22.50 Music/Dance: *[W(E)GO]* This international hybrid of a performance breaks down the boundaries between a dance recital and a rock concert. Led by Danish composer Niels Bjerg, the dancers and musicians interact with an ease of dynamics and great enthusiasm. Stubnitz, 21.00

Attitudes Exploring relations between identity and the creation of imagery, this exhibition features video art from students of the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Casablanca, and the results of the ‘one-minute video’ workshop that took place during the Festival International d’Art Video. De Veemvloer (Wed-Sat 13.00-18.00, Sun 14.00-17.00), opens Thursday, until 12 November Botanical Prints Beautiful watercolour and ink drawings by Anita Walsmit Sachs, a botanical artist at the Nationaal Herbarium Leiden. Hortus Botanicus (MonFri 09.00-17.00, Sat, Sun 10.00-05.00), opens Thursday, until 1 December Oud-West vanuit de lucht Aerial photography of Amsterdam Oud-West by Mirande Phernambucq. The images are displayed in windows around Bellamyplein, remaining lit daily until midnight. Bellamyplein (Daily), opens Thursday, until 12 December White Bright and Delighting Home New sculptures

by Jan Bokma on display in the house of design. Mart House (Thur-Sat 13.00-18.00), opens Thursday, until 4 November

Iris Kensmil: The Great March Recent paintings.

Galerie Ferdinand van Dieten-d’Eendt (Thur-Sat 11.0018.00), opens Saturday, until 18 November Jaap van den Ende New paintings. Akinci (Tues-Sat 13.00-18.00), opens Saturday, until 18 November Judith Rosema & Ingrid Simons: Silent Witness Playful paintings by Rosema and dark, busy drawings

by Simons. AYAC’S (Fri, Sat 13.00-17.30), opens Saturday, until 18 November Lon Godin Videos and paintings. Reuten Galerie (Wed-Sat 13.00-18.00), opens Saturday, until 18 November Martina Klein New paintings. Slewe Gallery (Tues-Sat 14.00-17.00), opens Saturday, until 11 November Paolo Consorti: Inside the Secret Things Colourful and almost psychedelic contemporary visions from the Italian artist, who takes direct inspiration from the late-medieval paintings by Brueghel and Dante’s Divine Comedy. Studio Apart (Wed 10.00-18.00, Thur 10.00-21.00, Fri 10.00-18.00, Sat 12.00-17.00), opens Saturday, until 23 November Regarding Facts Showing works by John M Armleder, Nicolas Chardon, Marijke van Warmerdam, Kristjan Gudmundsson, JCJ van der Heyden, Laboratorio Saccardi, Olivier Mosset and Myne Soe-Pedersen. Galerie van Gelder (Tues-Sat 13.00-17.30), opens Saturday, until 22 November

Geef mij maar Amsterdam See article on p. 15. Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Mon-Fri 10.00-17.00, Sat, Sun 11.00-17.00), opens Friday, until 18 March 2007

Rembrandt’s Drawings: The Observer Part two of this study of Rembrandt’s drawings, showing how he viewed the world around him and recorded it in ink and sketches. Rijksmuseum (Daily 09.00-18.00), opens Saturday, until 31 December

Widescreen Weekend Photo exhibition detailing the history of 70-mm film in Amsterdam. Filmmuseum Cinerama, opens Friday, closing Sunday

Snoetjes & Snuitjes Multidisciplinary arts project featuring works by Jaap de Ruig, Eef Augustinus, Gerben Hermanus, Noëlle von Eugen, Rikje Theunissen,

12-18 October 2006

Amsterdam Weekly Notable aside: the author of this piece wrote about his experience scattering the ashes of Tante Leen (pictured centre) in Amsterdam Weekly Issue 2.28, 14 July 2005.

From Jordaan tearjerkers to Bijlmer raps, a new historical exhibition makes the whole city sing.

JUST SING IT: GIVE ME AMSTERDA-DA-DA-DAM

By Floris Dogterom The street. That’s where it all began for the Amsterdam song. And that’s where the exhibition Geef mij maar Amsterdam at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum begins as well. In the early 1900s, street singers reacted through their songs to what was happening in the city.

‘Like a murder or something,’ curator Annemarie de Wildt elucidates. Later, music entered people’s homes via radio and gramophone, the very reason why the museum has built a Jordaanse living room in its exhibition space. De Wildt points to a mock-up version of the Café Royal, the bar of late levenslied [‘song about life’] singer Tante Leen. She says: ‘Here, we will show videos of bars where the Amsterdam tradition of community singing is still alive today, like De Twee Zwaantjes and Café Nol. Lots of songs about drinking, indeed.’

A side room, done up like a coffee shop, shows a more modern version of the levenslied, displaying songs by hiphoppers like THC and Osdorp Posse.

The other theme that the exhibition deals with is—of course—love, and there’s a hall of fame with portraits of, and exhibits related to, musical heroes like Louis Davids, Johnny Jordaan, and Lange Frans and Baas B (though the latter two actually hail from Diemen-Zuid).

Two giant maps of Amsterdam and its city centre have been erected, both cov-

ered with hundreds of holes; plug in a pair of headphones and you’ll hear a song about that exact spot: Johnny Jordaan sings about the Westertoren, Harry Slinger about Noord and at the Amsterdam ArenA you can sing along to ‘Naar het stadion’. It’s good fun.

Talking about football: In 1970, the Rotterdam entertainer and qualified Ajax-hater Gerard Cox sang a song called ‘Ajax is dood’. Feyenoord just had won the Europe Cup I, the first club in Dutch football history to do so. That very same year, Johnny Jordaan and Tante Leen hit back with ‘Ajax is niet dood’. In the three years to come, Ajax would come to rule European pitches and win the Cup three times in a row.

These kind of fascinating facts are dotted throughout the volume that accompanies the exhibition, and although book and exhibition share the same title, the book’s authors, Patrick van den Hanenberg and Lisa Wade, used a different approach. Its subtitle, De gezongen geschiedenis van Amsterdam (vanaf 1900) [‘A sung history of Amsterdam (from of 1900)’], has been chosen for a reason. ‘Whereas AHM’s point of departure is the song, we looked at historical facts first and tried to find a song about them afterwards,’ says Van den Hanenberg, a historian and theatre critic for De Volkskrant. Wade, a theatre science graduate with a couple of DVDs and books under her belt, adds: ‘Patrick would come up with a catchword on Amsterdam his-

tory, and I would hop on my bike on my way to yet another archive. It was a beautiful summer, but I would be sitting in some basement again, searching for a book. We were always looking for the printed lyrics, because old records are sometimes barely understandable.’

In the first chapter, Eduard Jacobs, the founding father of Dutch cabaret finally gets the attention he deserves. In the late 19th century, Jacobs went to Paris and got in touch with the entertainers of Montmartre, who didn’t exactly mince words with their lyrics. Back in Amsterdam, Jacobs established a name for himself as a singer and pianist, playing in the nightclub Het Wapen van Habsburg on Quellijnstraat in De Pijp. Van den Hanenberg says: ‘He’d sing about the prostitution that, in those days, was concentrated in that part of the city. He had nothing against [prostitution], but he did have something against the hypocrisy of the so-called fine gentlemen, who cried shame over prostitution in daylight, but at night visited prostitutes anyhow. He sang hard-boiled songs, with straight-in-yourface lyrics about venereal diseases and stuff. In the later stage of his career he lost it a bit, probably because he was losing his street credibility.’

Het Wapen van Habsburg doesn’t exist any more. In the 1980s, it fell victim to an explosion. Van den Hanenberg chuckles: ‘The best story about that incident is that some anarchist’s chemical experiments got out of hand. I don’t know if it’s true, but I like to leave it at that.’

In the revue Loop naar den duivel [‘Go to hell’] from 1914, another star of early Dutch cabaret, Louis Davids, sang about subjects related to the one big thing then happening: World War I. Although the Netherlands was neutral in that gruesome conflict, many young men were called up for military service. Wade says: ‘So was Davids, but after a while, he was allowed to return to civilian life because he argued that he had to perform in Loop naar den duivel. During World War II, many songs were written, too, yet we don’t know how many of them were performed. You couldn’t sing “Hitler is een lul” [“Hitler is a dick.”]’ At the end of the book, Van den Hanenberg and Wade return to the street, where they give the stage to rappers like Raymtzer, who made a claim to fame with his single ‘Kut Marokkanen??!’, and THC. Van den Hanenberg explains: ‘We couldn’t leave out rap. It’s street language, and although there’s a lot of childishness in hiphop lyrics, I see rap as the musical journalism of today.’ Wade adds: ‘It’s the spirit of the times that we were after.’

Despite this, the authors haven’t reserved a space for the godfathers of Nederhop, Osdorp Posse. According to Wade: ‘In their hit ‘Origineel Amsterdams’, they just make a list of Amsterdam expressions. There’s no historical angle.

But we did incorporate Kiddo Cee with his song ‘Waar ik woon’, because he raps about the Bijlmer disaster.’

Geef mij maar Amsterdam, 13 October-18 March, Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Kalverstraat 92, 523 1822, www.ahm.nl.

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20 Jeroen Kusters, Petra van der Steen, Dorien Boland and Paksha van Slooten. Plantage Doklaan 8-12 (Sat 14.00-21.00, Sun 11.00-17.00), opens Saturday, closing Sunday 15 Years: Collection Retrospetive of the museum’s last 15 years. Jan van der Togt Museum (Thur-Sun 13.00-17.00), Amstelveen, opens Sunday, until 26 November

Museums Fashion DNA With Italian architect Italo Rota behind the church’s contemporary make-over, the multimedia-friendly exhibits explore the history and power of fashion, and all that allows us to develop an identity and project it to the world. Nieuwe Kerk (Fri-Wed 10.00-18.00, Thur 10.00-22.00), until 22 October Japanese Season Triple exhibition featuring Guus Rijven’s A Tokaido Make-over, the Japanese Meiji art collection Wonders of Imperial Japan, and the influence of leading 19th-century Japanese artists on Paris’ Les Nabis group in Women from Tokyo & Paris.

Van Gogh Museum (Mon-Sun 10.00-18.00, Fri until 22.00), until 22 October Binnenkort in dit Theater Under the tag of Worst Kees Scenario, illustration duo Yvonne Kroese and Reinoud van Hasselt present a series of political and satirical film posters. Filmmuseum (Mon-Fri 09.00 -22.00, Sat 17.00-22.00, Sun 13.00-22.00), until 22 October Portrait Photographs from Isfahan, 1920-1950 An exceptional selection of portrait photography from the city of Isfahan. Taken between 1920 and 1950, these images provide a remarkable insight into life in Iran when the traditional culture was developing into a modern society (a transformation largely reversed after 1979, with the establishment of the Islamic Republic). Foam (Sun-Wed 10.00-17.00, Thur, Fri 10.00-21.00), until 29 October Tian-Sying Yang: Maintenance For a month, this Taiwanese artist took photographs at KLM’s Engineering and Maintenance department. The result was a series of abstract still lifes overflowing with composition, colour and form. Foam (Sun-Wed 10.00-17.00, Thur, Fri 10.00-21.00), until 1 November Bouwjaar ’86 Marking 20 years of ARCAM, the architecture centre revisits its opening year of 1986, bringing it back to life through videos, photos, models,

Amsterdam Weekly newspaper articles and city impressions. ARCAM (Tues-Sat 13.00-17.00), until 4 November

position yourself. CoBrA Museum (Tues-Sun 11.0017.00), until 19 November

Airworld From airport terminals to stewardess uniforms, eating utensils to branding and logo placement, the exhibition examines the development of almost every conceivable aircraft-related design, from the early days of passenger flights to the present.

Stedelijk Museum CS (Fri-Wed 10.00-18.00), until 5 November

Hellen van Meene Following up her photographic portrait series of teenagers—most of whom she already knew from her own surroundings—Van Meene spent four years travelling to Japan, England, Germany, Latvia and Russia to find new models for portraits. Huis Marseille (Tues-Sun 11.00-18.00), until 26 November

Melik Ohanian: Something in Time The first solo exhibition in the Netherlands of the French-Armenian artist, featuring a comprehensive survey of his films. A world-renowned video artist, Ohanian (1969) intends not to document situations, but rather, create abstractions searching for the human qualities within such situations. De Appel (Tues-Sun 11.00-18.00), until 5 November

The Earth from Above Outdoor exhibition featuring the famous aerial photography of Yann ArthusBertrand, whose images last stopped off in Amsterdam in 2003. Since, the collection has been renewed with the addition of 90 new photos. Stopera (Daily), until 3 December

Lucy Stein, Anat Stainberg & Norberto Llopsis Segarra Paintings and drawings by Stein, whose work consists of character sketches of women and femininity, other times infused with blatant self-mockery, and still at others, with an all-pervading sense of darkness.

It also marks the commencement of a weekly soap opera-style performance (every Sunday afternoon in October, climaxing on Museum n8) by duo Stainberg and Llopsis Segarra. Although the two exhibitions are separate, they have one thing in common: a fascination with the material. Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam (Tues-Sun 11.00-17.00), until 5 November Spirito y Carne Contemporary artworks from the DNBKunstcollectie, offering a modern vision of themes such as spirituality, religion, life and death.

Amstelkring (Mon-Sat 10.00-17.00, Sun 13.00-17.00), until 5 November Fly Me to the Moon For once not taking itself too seriously, the Rijksmuseum presents one of its oldest and previously unseen items, a moon rock. This allows Rotterdam art duo Liesbeth Bik and Jos van der Pol to pose some unusual questions, such as will they open a branch of the museum on the moon? Rijksmuseum (Daily 09.00-18.00), until 19 November Janet Cardiff: Forty Part Motet An adaptation of Spem in Alium nunquam habui by the English Renaissance composer Thomas Tallis, this impressive 40-speaker sound sculpture by the acclaimed Canadian artist is fresh from the Museum of Modern Art, New York, and will dazzle your ears and mind wherever you

12-18 October 2006 strangeness of our urban reality. The large-scale images exhibited are often manipulated, constructed or reconstructed to reveal a different view of urban surroundings—iconic buildings as well as deserted street corners. Featuring works by Andreas Gursky, Thomas Struth, Edward Zwakman and many others. Nederlands Architectuurinstituut (Tues-Sat 10.00-17.00), Rotterdam, until 7 January 2007

Voici Magritte Grand exhibition showing paintings, drawings, gouaches and collages by Belgian supersurrealist Magritte, including some of his most important works. Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Tues-Sat 10.00-17.00, Sun 11.00-17.00), Rotterdam, until 3 December Koninklijke Prijs The annual arts prize sponsored by the Royal Family is back. This year the four artists whose paintings have made it through to the final are Antione Berghs, Wouter Kalis, Lucy Stein and Anneke Wilbrink. Gemeentemuseum (Tues-Sun 11.00-17.00), Den Haag, until 3 December Rembrandt en de bijbel More Rembrandt: this time all his etches of biblical scenes and characters. Bijbels Museum (Mon-Sat 10.00-17.00, Sun 11.00-17.00), until 10 December The Kate Show Artists from different disciplines show works inspired by supermodel, style icon and muse Kate Moss. The focus is on the relationship between public and private life and how a public person is allocated an image or personality by the media. Foam (Sun-Wed 10.00-17.00, Thur, Fri 10.00-21.00), until 14 December Inside Iran An overview of Iranian painter Khosrow Hassanzadeh, whose works focus on political and social developments in his home country, and demonstrate a critical approach towards both Iranian state propaganda and Western prejudices about the Muslim world. Tropenmuseum (Mon-Fri 11.00-17.00, Sat, Sun 13.00-17.00), until 7 January 2007 Spectacular City: Photographing the Future Extraordinary photographs exploring the beauty and

Urs Fischer (The Vincent 2006) The Vincent 2006 Showcasing works of the five nominees for The Vincent van Gogh Biennial Award for Contemporary Art in Europe. The winner will be announced on 17 November. Stedelijk Museum CS (Fri-Wed 10.00-18.00), until 14 January 2007 Werkplaats Jan van Scorel Three newly restored paintings from Dutch master Jan van Scorel’s studio.

The restauration process will be explained and the results of the technical research will be presented to the public. Centraal Museum (Tues-Sun 11.00-17.00), Utrecht, until 14 January 2007 Picasso: Master of Line Women, love and eroticism played a vital role in the life and work of Pablo Picasso.

In 1930, the world-famous artist began working on a series of prints commissioned by the Paris art dealer Ambroise Vollard. The series spans seven years and is one of the key works of Picasso’s oeuvre. Here the complete set of 100 works, known as the Vollard Suite, can be seen in the Netherlands for the first time.

CoBrA Museum (Tues-Sun 11.00-17.00), until 4 February 2007

Galleries Halfway to Eden Celebrating the venue’s move to a new location away from the city centre, the oversized opening exhibition features contemporary works by: Tim Benjamin, Arno Coenen, Iris Roskam, Idiots, Marjolijn Mandersloot, Jos van der Sommen, Hugo Kaagman, Petra van der Steen, Tadaaki Narita, Janine Schimkat, Pauline Wiertz, Ottmar Hörl and Joana Ozorio de Almeida Meroz. artKitchen (Wed-Fri 12.00-17.00, Sat 13.00-18.00) De Kleur van Iran Paintings, photos and explosions of colours as native artists provide views and perspectives of Iranian life from the inside. Participants include Shadi Ghadirian, Parima Shahin Moghaddam, Vahid Nasirian and Farhad Foroutnian. De Levante (Wed-Sun 13.00-17.30), closing Friday Eindexamens Fotografie 2006 Selection of works presented by graduating students. Amsterdams Centrum voor Fotografie (Thur-Sat 13.00-17.00), closing Saturday Liberté Pour Tous Photographic and video selections from Den Haag artist Risk Hazekamp, whose work regularly tackles the relationship between personal identity and gender. Artspace Witzenhausen (Thur-Sat 12.00-18.00), closing Saturday Dreamtalk Contemporary neuromythological stories in the form of video works by Keren Cytter. Ellen de Bruijne Projects/Dolores (Tues-Sat 13.00-18.00), closing Saturday Erik Wesselo: 56 Beaver Street A solo exhibition of lo-fi polaroid prints. Living in New York at the time of the 9/11 attacks, Wesselo provide a real sense of atmosphere from the period. Annet Gelink Gallery (Tues-Fri 11.00-18.00, Sat 13.00-18.00), closing Saturday Streetlab: The Streets of Europe On behalf of Streetlab, photographers Martijn van de Griendt and Willem Poelstra travelled through Europe this summer with the aim of capturing today’s street culture. The exhibition shows 20 pictures taken on the streets of Amsterdam, Warsaw, Barcelona and Istanbul. Pakhuis de Zwijger Mon-Sat 08.00-23.00, closing Saturday Mixed Works The medley includes: Misschien zal het vannacht gaan regenen featuring new drawings by Jacobien de Rooij, Simon Says, a film by Maya Cohen,

Amsterdam Weekly

12-18 October 2006 Colalitzia, a film by Elad Larom and Via Dolorosa, a film by Nir and Nadav Nadler. W139 (Tues-Sun 13.0019.00), closing Sunday

ADDRESSES

THEAUSTRIANABSTRACTS Multidisciplinary artworks and new media by promising young Austrian artists.

Curated by Norbert Pfaffenbichler. Arti et Amicitiae (Tues-Sun 13.00-18.00), closing Sunday The Kids are Alright Works on paper and photography by artists including Marijn Akkermans, Desiree Dolron, Malerie Marder, John Lurie, Anoek Steketee, Eve Sussman, Masao Yamamoto, Dick Tuinder, Nik Christensen and Ronald Hooft. Galerie Gabriel Rolt (Wed-Sat 12.00-18.00), until 21 October Dorcas Müller: The Devil’s Hit List Performance videos and photographic works by the German artist.

The aim is to examine the tangent plane between physical reality and the digital net. OUTLINE (Thur-Sat 13.00-17.00), until 21 October GP06: Stad-Speel-Ruimte On show is the sixth edition of Group Portraits, an interdisciplinary project which teams together designers, artists and architects and invites them to research and develop their own vision on urban environment and public space. This time the theme is ‘Play in the City’. 66 East (Fri-Sun, 14.00-18.00), until 22 October Scroll: 40 years of visual narrative Activist/artist/librarian Tjebbe van Tijen presents a selection of his life’s work: layered picture scrolls telling wide-ranging stories. Mediamatic, until 22 October IDENTITY These multidisciplinary works of 35 international artists present a unique point of view to examine how identity is both represented and affected by culture, religion and other factors. Oude Kerk (Mon-Sat 11.00-17.00, Sun 13.00-17.00), until 22 October Tape This Cellotape, masking tape, duct tape... Admit it, where would you be without tape in your life? In the art world, tape is more usually a tool, or an aid, allowing an artist added control, then eventually removed from the finished product. But finally tape is getting the credit it deserves in this exhibition featuring a whole collection of works created entirely with taping techniques and experiments. Arti et Amicitiae (TuesSun 13.00-18.00), until 22 October

Amsterdam Marathon, see Sunday

EVENTS Thursday 12 October

Nachbarn/Buren Harm van den Berg creates sound installations from snippets of conversation recorded on the streets. For this work, he’s collected statements and fragments of speech from Dutch people talking about Germans, and vice versa. Goethe Instituut (Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00), until 25 October

Debate: Russia deserves more friendship and less fear A discussion panel about post-communist Russia, with guests Frans Timmermans, Vladimir Socor, Nicolai Petro and Mary Dejevsky. In English. De Rode Hoed, 19.45, free

Afdalen uit het dal New paintings by young Eindhoven artist Jeroen Vrijsen. Galerie Smits (Wed-Sat 13.30-17.30), until 25 October

Friday 13 October

New York in the 1930s-50s The first-ever European exhibition of the work of Walfred Moisio. For nearly three decades, the photographer dedicated his life to observing the ever-changing streets of New York, candidly capturing the emotions of its people and time in startling black and white images. Gallery Vassie (WedSat 12.00-18.00), until 4 November Radiant: 30 Years Ra Revisiting the last 30 years of the gallery, including works by more than 60 artists.

Galerie Ra (Tues-Sat 12.00-18.00), until 4 November Jim Collier: Illusions Fifteen oil paintings. Ilusion Galerie (Tues-Fri 13.00-16.00, Sat 10.00-17.00), until 11 November Pretty on the Inside New paintings by Guido Vlottes.

De Praktijk (Tues-Sat 13.00-18.00), until 11 November Waterstof New drawings by Dineke Blom. AdK Actuele Kunst (Wed-Sat 12.30-17.30), until 11 November Loneliness, boredom, misery, disgust, dead as a doornail. Solution: socialize also with farmers and workers. Anthropomorphic plastic sculptures by Theo Schepens. De Praktijk (Tues-Sat 13.00-18.00), until 11 November The Kurds of Iraq Photographs by Michiel Hegener.

Ruigoord, until 12 November Militant Bourgeois: An Existentialist Retreat Following his experiments last June, Chris Evans is back to present the second part of his Militant Bourgeois concept, this time on a patch of land in the middle of a dual-carriageway road. The aim? To question whether subsidised art can be worthwhile. Artists are welcome to move in and let their creative juices flow.

See www.smba.nl. Transformatorweg, until 15 December Raw Footage/Scapegoats A solo exhibition by Groningse multimedia artist Aernout Mik, this two-part video installation focuses on the experience and depiction of war, showing how normality and extremity become interwoven in wartime situations. bak (Wed-Sat 12.00-17.00, Sun 13.00-17.00), Utrecht, until 24 December

Literature: Writing Europe Is there such a thing as European literature? Does literature play a role in the debate on national identities and, if yes, in what way?

These questions and more will be touched on in this two-day festival, with lectures and interviews from the likes of Simona Popescu (Romania), James Meek (UK), David van Reybrouck (Belgium), Olga Tokarczuk (Poland), Jachym Topol (Czech Republic) and keynote speaker Michaël Zeeman (Netherlands). In English. De Balie, 19.30, €9

Saturday 14 October Art/Walk: Open Atelier Route Amsterdam Zuidoost Celebrating the new studios in Echtenstein, more than 75 artists in Bijlmer present a multicultural and multidisciplinary event with exhibitions, installations, performances and workshops. The start point is the United Different Voices office. For walking/cycling route see www.openatelierszuidoost.nl. Kruitberg, 12.00-18.00, free Literature: Writing Europe (See Friday) De Balie, 19.30, €9

Sunday 15 October Sport: Amsterdam Marathon (See Short List) Various locations, 10.30 (10.55 Echo 10-K, 12.00 Youth Run 2.5K, 14.00 Half Marathon) Art/Walk: Open Atelier Route Amsterdam Zuidoost (See Saturday) Kruitberg, 12.00-18.00, free Multidisciplinary: World Food Day (See Short List) Hotel Arena, 15.00-01.00, free before 20.30, €5

Monday 16 October Discussion: Women Inc Titled ‘What do you Inc?’, the first of this new weekly event kicks off with a photo exhibition and a three-woman discussion about how female identity reflects not only their photography, but their place in the world. Pakhuis de Zwijger, 20.00

11 Oosterdokskade 3-5, 625 5999 66 East Sumatrastraat 66, 06 4475 4773 ABC Treehouse Voetboogstraat 11, 423 0967 ACU Voorstraat 71, Utrecht, 030 231 4590 AdK Actuele Kunst Prinsengracht 534, 320 9242 Akinci Lijnbaansgracht 317, 638 0480 Amstelkring Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40, 624 6604 Amsterdams Centrum voor Fotografie Bethaniënstraat 9, 622 4899 Amsterdams Historisch Museum Kalverstraat 92, 523 1822 Annet Gelink Gallery Laurierstraat 187-189, 330 2066 De Appel Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 10, 625 5651 April Reguliersdwarsstraat 37, 625 9572 ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600, 620 4878 Arti et Amicitiae Rokin 112, 624 5134 artKitchen Joris van den Berghweg 101, 622 3422 Arts-Place Wibautstraat 125, 06 2420 9192 Artspace Witzenhausen Hazenstraat 60, 644 9898 AYAC’S Keizersgracht 166, 638 5240 bak Lange Nieuwstraat 4, Utrecht, 030 231 6125 De Balie Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10, 553 5151 Bethaniënklooster Barndesteeg 6, 625 0078 Beurs van Berlage Damrak 277, 530 4141 Bijbels Museum Herengracht 366-368, 624 2436 Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3, 788 2150 Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2, 521 3001 Blijburg Bert Haanstrakade 2004, 416 0330 De Brakke Grond Nes 45, 626 6866 Café Pakhuis Wilhelmina Veemkade 576, 419 3368 Café Sappho Vijzelstraat 103, 423 1509 Centraal Museum Nicolaaskerkhof, Utrecht, 030 236 2362 Club 8 Admiraal de Ruyterweg 56B, 685 1703 CoBrA Museum Sandbergplein 1-3, Amstelveen, 547 5050 Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 2-6, 671 8345 Consortium Veemkade 570, 06 2611 8950 Crea Café Turfdraagsterpad 17, 525 1423 Crea Muziekzaal Turfdraagsterpad 17, 525 1400 Crea Theater Turfdraagsterpad 17, 525 1400 Cristofori Prinsengracht 581-583, 626 8485 Custom Café Sugar Hazenstraat 19, 06 1401 3143 Desmet Studios Plantage Middenlaan 4A, 521 7100 Ellen de Bruijne Projects/Dolores Rozengracht 207A, 530 4994 Exit Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, 625 8788 Felix Meritis Keizersgracht 324, 626 2321 Filmmuseum Vondelpark 3, 589 1400 Filmmuseum Cinerama Marnixstraat 400, 623 7814 Foam Keizersgracht 609, 551 6546 Galerie de Rietlanden Rietlandpark 193, 419 4705 Ferdinand van Dieten-d’Eendt Spuistraat 270, 626 5777 Galerie Gabriel Rolt Elandsgracht 34, 785 5146 Galerie Nola Hatterman Zeeburgerdijk 19A, 693 5057 Galerie Ra Vijzelstraat 80, 626 5100 Galerie Smits Fokke Simonszstraat 29, 06 43001833 Galerie van Gelder Planciusstraat 9A, 627 7419 Gallery Vassie 1e Tuindwarsstraat 16, 489 4042 Gasthuis Marius van Bouwdijk Bastiaansestraat 54, 683 8494 Gemeentemuseum Stadhouderslaan 41, Den Haag, 070 338 1111 Goethe Instituut Herengracht 470, 531 2900 Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590, 0900 300 1250 Hermitage Amsterdam Nieuwe Herengracht 14, 530 8751 Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A, 625 9021 Hotel Arena ‘s-Gravesandestraat 51, 850 2400 Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401, 531 8989 Ilusion Galerie 2e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat 18, 320 4321 Imagine Identity and Culture Bijlmerplein 1006-1008, 489 4866 Jan van der Togt Museum Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen, 641 5754 KHL Koffiehuis Oostelijke Handelskade 44, 779 1575 KIT Tropentheater Mauritskade 63, 568 8711

21 KochxBos Gallery 1e Anjeliersdwarsstraat 3-5, 681 4567 Kruitberg Kruitberg 1003a De Levante Hobbemastraat 28, 671 5485 Lloyd Hotel Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 419 1840 Maloe Melo Lijnbaansgracht 163, 420 4592 Mart House Prinsengracht 529, 627 5187 Mediamatic Post CS, Oosterdokskade 5, 638 9901 Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300, 410 7777 Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A, 531 8181 Melkweg Galerie Marnixstraat 409, 531 8181 Mendo Berenstraat 11, 612 1216 Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen Museumpark 18-20, Rotterdam, 010 441 9400 Muziekgebouw Piet Heinkade 1, 788 2010 Het Muziektheater Amstel 3, 625 5455 NDSM-werf TT Neveritaweg 15, 330 5480 Nederlands Architectuurinstituut Museumpark 25, Rotterdam, 010 440 1200 De Nieuwe Anita Frederik Hendrikstraat 111 Nieuwe Kerk entrance on the Dam, 638 6909 Noorderkerk Noordermarkt 44, 626 6436 OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134, 671 7778 Odeon Singel 460, 624 9711 OT301 Overtoom 301, 779 4913 Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23, 625 8284 OUTLINE Oetewalerstraat 73, 693 1389 P60 Stadsplein 100A, Amstelveen, 023 345 3445 Pakhuis de Zwijger Piet Heinkade 179-181 Panama Oostelijke Handelskade 4, 311 8680 Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8, 626 4521 Pathé De Munt Vijzelstraat 15, 0900 1458 Patronaat Zijlsingel 2, Haarlem, 023 517 5858 Plantage Doklaan 8-12 Plantage Doklaan Platform 21 Prinses Irenestraat 19, 344 9449 Podium Mozaïek Bos en Lommerweg 191, 580 0380 Posthoornkerk Haarlemmerstraat 124 De Praktijk Lauriergracht 96, 422 1727 PRIK Spuistraat 109, 06 4544 2321 Reflex New Art Gallery Weteringschans 79A, 423 5423 Rembrandthuis Jodenbreestraat 4, 520 0400 Reuten Galerie Fokke Simonszstraat 49, 620 7537 Rijksmuseum Jan Luykenstraat 1, 674 7000 De Rode Hoed Keizersgracht 102, 638 5606 Ruigoord Ruigoord 15, 497 5702 Saarein Elandsstraat 119, 623 4901 Slewe Gallery Kerkstraat 105A, 625 7214 SMART Project Space Arie Biemondstraat 107-113, 427 5953 Soho Reguliersdwarsstraat 36 Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 624 2311 Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam Rozenstraat 59, 422 0471 Stedelijk Museum CS Oosterdokskade 5, 573 2911 Stopera Waterlooplein 22, 551 8117 Stubnitz Odinakade, NDSM-werf Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 70, 521 8333 Studio Apart Prinsengracht 715, 422 2748 Sugar Factory Lijnbaansgracht 238, 627 0008 Supperclub Jonge Roelensteeg 15, 344 6400 Suzanne Biederberg Gallery 1e Egelantiersdwarsstraat 1, 624 5455 Tetterode Da Costakade 158-60 and Bilderdijkstraat 163-5 Teylers Museum Spaarne 16, Haarlem, 023 516 0960 Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90, 530 5301 Toomler Breitnerstraat 2, 670 7400 Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2, 568 8200 Under the Grand Chapiteau Next to ArenA, 621 1288 Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7, 570 5200 De Veemvloer Van Diemenstraat 410, 638 6894 Verzetsmuseum Plantage Kerklaan 61, 620 2535 Volta Houtmankade 334-336, 628 6429 W139 Oosterdokskade 5, sixth floor, 622 9434 Winston Kingdom Warmoesstraat 129, 623 1380 World Trade Center Strawinskylaan 1, 575 9111 Zaal 100 De Wittenstraat 100, 688 0127 The Zebra Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 14, 330 5266

Amsterdam Weekly

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Taxidermia

FILM Edited by Julie Phillips.This week’s films reviewed

by Sam Coleman (SC), Laura Groeneveld (LG), Luuk van Huët (LvH), JR Jones (JJ), Steven McCarron (SM), Julie Phillips (JP), Jonathan Rosenbaum (JR) and Bregtje Schudel (BS). All films are screened in English with Dutch subtitles unless otherwise noted. Amsterdam Weekly recommends.

Festival Indonesian Film Festival See article on p. 4.

Filmmuseum

New this week An Inconvenient Truth See review on p. 23. 100 min.

Kriterion, The Movies, Pathé De Munt, Pathé Tuschinski The Devil Wears Prada Lauren Weisberger’s bestselling novel about a young woman losing her soul at a New York fashion magazine has been turned into an agreeably shallow comedy. Meryl Streep walks away with the movie as the harshly unforgiving editor of a Vogue-like glossy; Anne Hathaway (The Princess Diaries) makes a lovely mannequin as her downtrodden new assistant, who trades her journalistic ideals for a series of smashing outfits. (JJ) 109 min. Pathé ArenA, Pathé City, Pathé De Munt, Pathé Tuschinski Forever See review on p. 23. 95 min. In Dutch (with English subtitles at De Uitkijk on Sun-Wed, 19.15). Het Ketelhuis, Kriterion, Pathé Tuschinski, De Uitkijk

Nachtrit Cool film about a taxi driver who gets

caught up in the Amsterdam taxi war of 2000. Dennis (Frank Lammers) takes on a huge debt to finance his own taxi permit. Little does he know that a new law is about to come through that will make his permit abso-

12-18 October 2006

Nachtrit

lutely worthless. With good acting, great dialogues and a convincing sex scene, the film makes perfect use of the darker side of Amsterdam. And who would have guessed that Rembrandt: The Musical star Henk Poort was such a badass? In Dutch. (LG) 104 min. The Movies, Pathé ArenA, Pathé City, Pathé De Munt Taxidermia This new film by Geörgy Pálfi (Hukkle) follows three generations of a strange family: grandfather practises bestiality, father competes in eating contests and son is a taxidermist who decides to stuff himself. Pálfi says he wanted to use the imaginary language of porn and horror to answer basic questions about human identity. Bring your barf bag.

In Hungarian with Dutch subtitles 91 min. Rialto

Still playing 13 (Tzameti) Don’t stick your nose into someone

else’s business may be the moral of his noirish blackand-white thriller by director Géla Babluani. In this accomplished and tense debut film, an impoverished immigrant (George Babluani) stumbles upon a route to riches when he overhears his employer discussing a get-rich-quick scheme and acts to intercept. Only he doesn’t know the full story, instead following a series of step-by-step instructions that sends him travelling across country with strangers closely on his tail. The set-up is lengthy but carefully calculated, making the macabre plot twists all the more enjoyable. In French with Dutch subtitles. 93 min. Filmmuseum, Rialto Les Amants réguliers A three-hour homage to the 1968 student demonstrations in Paris: the late-night philosophical discussions, the tentative explorations of free love, the drugs, the romantic tossing of Molotov cocktails from the barricades. In Philippe Garrel’s autobiographical film, the young poet and draft refuser François (played by Louis Garrel, the director’s son) discovers love, grief and other opiates. Slow, atmospheric and romantic, Les amants réguliers is Garrel’s ‘I was there’ answer to Bertolucci’s slicker, more prettified The Dreamers. 178 min. Filmmuseum

Brick Film noir finds a new home—chez a SoCal high school—in Rian Johnson’s debut feature. Brendan is a sharp loner who fully understands how the

school’s societies tick, but opts to sit on the outskirts watching. That’s until he receives a call for help from his missing ex-girlfriend), and in order to pursue her, must become part of the school’s seedy drug-selling underworld. (SM) 110 min. The Movies, Pathé De Munt Buddha’s Lost Children A feature-length documentary film about a Thai Buddhist monk who—armed only with his faith and boxing skills—wages an inspirational battle to help orphaned children, fight drug abuse and preserve a vanishing way of life. Followed over the course of a year by Dutch director Mark Verkerk, Abt Phra Khru Bah transforms the lives of the children he encounters through a mixture of compassion and tough love. In Thai with Dutch subtitles. 96 min. Kriterion, Pathé Tuschinski, De Uitkijk C.R.A.Z.Y. A story of two love affairs: a father’s love for his five sons, and one son’s love for his father—a love so strong it compels him to live a lie and hide from his true self. In Jean-Marc Vallée’s gay fairy tale set in Quebec (where last year the movie was a huge success) that son is Zac Beaulieu, who knows he’s different from his brothers, but is desperate to fit in. In French with Dutch subtitles. 127 min. Cinecenter The Cave of the Yellow Dog In this follow-up to Byambasuren Davaa’s spellbinding international hit The Story of the Weeping Camel, the Mongolian film-maker sticks to the kind of down-to-earth docudrama she does best.

Once again exploring the nomadic aspects of Mongolian life through a real family, she documents their everyday existence in a quiet, monotonous world. In Mongolian with Dutch subtitles. (SM) 95 min. Rialto China Blue Documentary by Micha X Peled, which explores the textile industry of China and the 130 million children working in factories to produce clothing.

Five-Word Movie Review

BESTIALITY VOMIT GUTS: THAT’S LIFE Taxidermia Rialto

In Cantonese/English/Mandarin with Dutch subtitles.

87 min. Het Ketelhuis

Crash (2005) Interfacing storylines set in Los Angeles pivot on racism and xenophobia, playing tricks with our own biases and ultimately justifying an extravagant array of coincidences and surprises. (JR) 100 min. Pathé De Munt, Pathé Tuschinski Elementarteilchen/Elementaire deeltjes Half-brothers Manuel and Bruno grew up apart from each other.

Bruno has grown into a sexual obsessive and Manuel a brilliant molecular biologist. Their similarities and differences turn this black comedy, based on Michel Houellebecq’s cranky French best-seller The Elementary Particles, into a turbulent and soul-searching film by intense director Oskar Roehler. In German with Dutch subtitles. (JH) 105 min. Het Ketelhuis, Kriterion, Pathé Tuschinski L’ Enfant endormi Zeinab (Mounia Osfour) lives in an isolated hamlet in northern Morocco. Like most of the

Special screenings Amator This satirical feature by Krzysztof Kieslowski describes everything that ensues when a Polish factory clerk (cowriter Jerzy Stuhr) buys an 8-mm camera—including his growing obsession with his new toy, his altered relationships with his wife and boss and the responses of other film-makers (including Krzysztof Zanussi in a cameo) after he wins third prize in an amateur film competition. Suffused with Kieslowski’s dry wit and intelligence,the film provides an excellent introduction to his work. In Polish with Dutch subtitles. (JR) 112 min. Melkweg Cinema The District This absurdist and über-funky animated film tells a Romeo and Juliet story amid rival Roma gangs clashing in Budapest. The kids decide they need money and travel back in time to put an oil field under their ‘hood. Eventually George Bush, the Pope and Bin Laden get involved. A warped comedy billed as ‘Hungary’s answer to South Park’. In Hungarian/Romany with Dutch subtitles. 87 min.

Filmmuseum Filmbank: Dutch Masters: A new best-of series presents short films by important Dutch experimental filmmakers. This programme is devoted to Barbara Meter . 75 min. De Balie Filmbanktour: Hallototziens Marbles defy gravity; Achmed goes to Schiphol to meet his aunt; found footage of a 1941 boxing match illustrates an intimate exchange in an evening of gorgeous, unusual and uncategorisable Dutch short films. In Dutch and Italian. 69 min. De Balie

The Killing Arguably Stanley Kubrick’s most perfectly conceived and executed film, this 1956 noirish thriller utilizes an intricate overlapping time structure to depict the planning and execution of a plot to steal two million dollars from a racetrack. 83 min.

(JR) 83 min. Kriterion The Manchurian Candidate (1962) One of the strangest and most mercurial movies ever made in Hollywood. A powerful experience, alternately corrosive with dark parodic humor, suspenseful, moving and terrifying. (JR) 126 min. Rialto

Oldboy After a seemingly innocent Korean salaryman is suddenly kidnapped and then held prisoner in a shady location for 15 years, one might expect the good man to hold a bit of a grudge. So it’s no surprise when Oh-Dae Su goes on a righteous rampage of revenge in his quest to find out the reason for his capture. When he eventually tracks down his captor, he’s drawn deeper into a game in which all the odds are against him. Although the influences of Miike, Fincher and Lynch are obvious, director Park manages to combine them here into a refreshing tale of revenge gone wrong with remarkable vision and excellent craftsmanship. (LvH) Filmhuis Griffioen Trois Couleurs: Bleu Krzysztof, Kieslowski at his best. In French with Dutch subtitles. 100 min.

Melkweg Cinema Turtles Can Fly Kurdish director Bahman Ghobadi depicts three orphaned children and their efforts to survive in excruciating circumstances. Using nonprofessional actors, Ghobadi refuses to shy away from the harsh reality the children must face, and he doesn’t spare the ‘liberating’ parties. The bleakness of it all is made bearable by a small flicker of hope.

In Kurdish with Dutch subtitles. (LvH) 98 min. Cavia, Kriterion Viva Laldjérie This 2004 French-Algerian feature by Nadir Mokneche offers an intriguing look at women in a changing Algiers. Lubna Azabal easily holds the screen as an independent young woman whose frustrating affair with a married doctor sends her to a local dance club in search of sex. In French with Dutch subtitles. (JJ) 113 min. Cavia Widescreen-weekend 2006 Filmmuseum Cinerama is slated to be demolished, but a delay has yielded time for one last homage to the really big movie. Films include 2001: A Space Odyssey (a must-see in widescreen); 2005 Dutch CinemaScope film De Rijexamen; The Battle of the Bulge; South Pacific, Apocalypse Now and a vintage print, in the original Technicolor, of the 1954 musical There’s No Business Like Show Business. Filmmuseum

12-18 October 2006

Amsterdam Weekly

23 Al Gore’s PowerPoint to the people.

An Inconvenient Truth tells us what we already know: Amsterdam is headed into deep water and even deeper doo-doo.

STREETS FULL OF WATER. PLEASE ADVISE

By Luuk van Huët Just imagine an alternate universe in which the dull guy became the president of the United States in 2000 instead of the dumb guy. We couldn’t be worse off than we are today, right? The would’ve-been president of the US, Al Gore, proves himself to be a comeback kid with An Inconvenient Truth, a documentary based on a lecture he has been giving for

some time now. The topic: global warming, its effects on our planet and, most importantly, what your average Joe could do to counter it.

To those who lapse spontaneously into coma when confronted with the word ‘lecture’, I can offer no consolation.

Yes, a lecture-based film sounds as much fun as getting mauled by a hungry polar bear, but interspersed with the facts and figures are episodes from Gore’s own life

and his struggle to give new meaning to it after his presidential aspirations were squashed, which may or may not sweeten the deal for you.

The biggest surprise is Gore’s winning personality change, as he manages to captivate his audience by using the wit and charm he never displayed six years ago and peppering the speech with anecdotes from his past. He also gives viewers a taste of a bittersweet ‘What if?’ scenario from a parallel universe in which I’d very much like to reside.

As for the science behind the slide show, it has been closely scrutinised.

Apart from a handful of firebrands who have decried the film as some liberal fairy tale while peeking comfortably out of the corporate pockets they inhabit, the scientific community as a whole has given An Inconvenient Truth their blessing, while simultaneously giving Gore a slight slap on the wrist for coming across as a

An Inconvenient Truth opens Thursday at Kriterion, The Movies, Pathé ArenA and Pathé Tuschinski.

A sit-down affair in Forever.

Heddy Honigmann documents the life of a cemetery.

I’M OK,YOU’RE OK, THEY’RE ALL DEAD

By Marie-Claire Melzer What can we learn at the grave of Jim Morrison or Gertude Stein? In Forever, the great documentary-maker Heddy Honigmann explores the convergence of life, death and art through the eyes of visitors and tourists in Père-Lachaise. The Parisian graveyard is the final resting place of writers and artists from Marcel Proust to Edith Piaf, and Honigmann seems to want to explore the role of art in people’s lives. Can it fill the hole left by mortality?

Yes, says a man who often wanders through the cemetery and has developed a fetish for the graves of the unknown. When he sits by the tomb of a now-forgotten

tad too alarmist.

Sure, the flick relies too much on cutesy computer-generated animals as a device for rubbing our collective faces in the nature of the problem, and there are too many shots of Gore looking pensively off screen, as if he’s single-handedly shouldering a burden that would’ve incapacitated Atlas, but these are minor points that are easily overlooked.

The biggest problem facing An Inconvenient Truth in our waterlogged land could be that we have no real global warming controversy to speak of, and pretty much everyone agrees we should do something before we’re all condemned to wearing scuba suits if we’re to keep living in Amsterdam.

By preaching to the choir (or lecturing the already informed), Gore won’t save the planet—especially not as long as the Humvees keep on humming in the US of A. Luckily, though, this documentary already seems to have had some effect on the current American administration, as new, bipartisan legislation is already underway, enticing even that musclebound macho Governer Ahnuld Schwarzenegger to the fold.

And even if you’re an eco-friendly geitenwollen sok, stay seated for some hints and tips during the credits that will boost your green cred and save you some hard cash at the same time. This way, you’ll get to feel smug and sanctimonious, relaxing afterwards with a couple of organic beers.

singer, speaking about her music and how sad it is that she died so young, you can’t help but think: this man is a bit of a freak.

Honigmann is famous for Metaal en melancholie (1994), O Amor Natural (1996) and Het Ondergronds Orkest (1996), beautiful films about ordinary people, love, life and survival. In a film set in a cemetery, however, her usual subjects are unavailable. She can’t seem to make up her mind whether to make a film about Proust (he gets a lot of attention), a statement on art versus mortality, or a portrait of the living

visitors; none of these approaches brings her onto familiar ground.

Honigmann’s quiet style of filming— using long shots and a static camera to allow the action to unfold—has worked well for her in the past: you felt she had a connection with those she filmed. But it is hard to identify with the people in this documentary. There’s a distance that Honigmann can’t bridge, as illustrated when a Korean tourist expresses his love for Proust—in Korean, no subtitles. When he has finished, Honigmann says, ‘I didn’t

understand a word, but thanks anyway.’

There is one exception: an elegantly dressed black woman visiting the grave of her husband. He wasn’t an artist or a poet, just a man who really loved her. But he suddenly died. This woman’s story is the only truly gripping moment of the film.

There is also a creepily brilliant scene in which we see a man making up the face of a corpse. ‘In the end people expect me to bring back their loved ones as they remember them, but no matter how hard I try, I can never do that,’ he says, sadly.

In the end, Honigmann seems to conclude that art can’t conquer mortality—and thereby reaches the limits of the documentary endeavour. Perhaps her own great art would be better reserved for the living.

Forever (in Dutch) opens Thursday at Het Ketelhuis, Kriterion, Pathé Tuschinski and De Uitkijk.

Amsterdam Weekly

24 women in her village, she is waiting for the return of her husband, an illegal immigrant working in Europe.

The wait is shared by her unborn child, which she by traditional magic allows to ‘sleep’ until her man returns. The sleeping child symbolises the postponement of her own dreams in Belgian-Moroccan director Yasmine Kassari’s acclaimed 2004 debut. In French, Berber and Arabic with Dutch subtitles. 94 min. Rialto Figner: The End of a Silent Century Edgar Figner’s world is where fact and fantasy collide. This docudrama tells the story of the train journey he embarks on when forced from the family home where he’s always lived. Along the way, five co-passengers, taking the form of relatives and characters from his films, bring a Russian century to life through old film fragments. In Russian with Dutch subtitles. 90 min. Filmmuseum

Grbavica In a country ripped apart and left brim-

ming with single mothers, Esma is living with her 12-year-old daughter Sara in Grbavica, a district in the Bosnian capital of Sarajevo. Desperate to go on a school trip with her friends, the young girl begs her mother to acquire a certificate proving her father died a holy war martyr, thus entitling her to a discount. But when Esma avoids this process, struggling to pay the full fee herself, it becomes clear to Sara that the story of her father isn’t as black and white as she had always believed. Already tipped for Oscar success thanks to its intense story and performances, Jasmila Zbanic’s full-length directorial debut is an emotionally raw insight into post-war Balkan life. In Bosnian with Dutch subtitles. 90 min. Rialto Into Great Silence A first look into the lives of the monks of the Grande Chartreuse—the mother house of the legendary Carthusian Order in the French Alps—this documentary by Philip Groening serves to remind that there’s more to silence than just silence. There are no interviews, no commentary and no music, other than the monks’ song, yet this is an eye- and ear-opening piece. 164 min. Het Ketelhuis, Rialto Jackass: Number Two More stunts, pranks and grossout humour from Johnny Knoxville and compan.For all the moronic behaviour, there are also some inspired

FILM TIMES Thursday 12 October until Wednesday 18 October.Times are provided by cinemas and are subjectto last-minute changes. Film times also at www.amsterdamweekly.nl.

De Balie Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10, 553 5151 Filmbank: Dutch Masters: Barbara Meter Fri 20.30 Filmbanktour: Hallototziens Sat 20.30.

Cavia Van Hallstraat 52-I, 681 1419 10 Years of Buffy the Vampire Slayer Sat 12.00 Turtles Can Fly Thur 20.30 Viva Laldjérie Fri 20.30.

Cinecenter Lijnbaansgracht 236, 623 6615 C.R.A.Z.Y. daily 22.00, Sun also 11.00 Ober daily 16.30, 19.15, 21.45, Sun also 11.15, 14.00 Tapas daily 16.30, 19.30, 21.45, Sun also 11.00, 14.15 Va,Vis et Deviens daily 15.45, 18.45 Volver daily 16.00, 19.00, 21.45, Sun also 11.15.

Cinema Amstelveen Plein 1960 2, Amstelveen, 547 5175 Afblijven Sat, Wed 15.30, Sun 14.00 The Lake House Thur-Sat 20.30, Sun 16.15 Piet Piraat en het Vliegende Schip Sat, Wed 13.30, Sun 12.00 The Road to Guantanamo Thur 15.00, Tues, Wed 20.30.

Filmhuis Griffioen Uilenstede 106, Amstelveen, 444 5100 Il Caimano Fri 19.00, Tues 21.00 Oldboy Thur 19.00 United 93 Thur 21.30, Fri 19.00, Tues 21.15.

Filmmuseum Vondelpark 3, 589 1400 13 (Tzameti) Wed 19.45 Les Amants réguliers Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed 21.00, Mon, Tues also 17.30 The District Thur 17.45, 19.45, 21.45, Fri 22.15, Mon, Tues 17.45, 21.45, Wed 21.45 Figner: The End of a Silent Century Mon, Tues 19.45, Wed 17.45 Gordel van Smaragd Sun 21.15 Indonesian Film Festival Fri-Sun Insel der Demonen Sun 14.45 Jalan Raya Pos Sat 13.00 Het Land van mijn ouders Sat 19.15 Lotte van Uitvindersdorp Wed 13.45 Novecento Part 1: Thur, Fri 18.00, Part 2: Wed 18.00 Oeroeg Sat 21.15 Oorlogsrust Sat 17.45 Q & Q Wed 14.00 Tjoet Nja' Dhien Sun 17.00 Wij komen als vrienden Sat 13.00.

Filmmuseum Cinerama Marnixstraat 400, 623 7814, 2001:A Space Odyssey Fri 21.30 Apocalypse Now Sun 20.15 Baraka Sat 17.00 Battle of the Bulge Sat 13.30

dadaist moments. (JJ) 95 min. Pathé ArenA, Pathé City, Pathé De Munt

Jackass 2

The Merchant of Venice Al Pacino avoids his usual bombast, giving his Shylock some shading, and Jeremy Irons is fine as his legal opponent, Antonio. Overall this is an intelligent and thoughtful reading of the play.

(JR) 127 min. Pathé ArenA Metal: A Headbanger’s Journey Film-maker Sam Dunn identifies himself as an anthropologist and a heavy metal fan at the outset of this Canadian documentary, and its form follows naturally: organised like a thesis, it traces metal’s roots and surveys numerous subgenres, yet every chapter seems to show the goofy, long-haired director flashing the devil horns. Metal culture is a giant topic, and Dunn has made an ambitious stab at exploring the music’s social, religious and sexual implications.

Considered but then dropped are many rich topics: the homoeroticism of ’80s hair bands, Tipper Gore’s campaign against satanic lyrics, metal-stoked church burnings in Norway. But would you respect a movie about metal that wasn’t excessive? (JJ) 94 min. Melkweg Cinema Ober Absurdity reigns once again in Alex van Warmerdam’s latest feature, a hysterical tale about the many bizarre misfortunes of a waiter named Edgar (played by the director himself), who also happens to be the main character of a manuscript in the making. Reality and fiction coalesce even further when the badgered Edgar complains to his creator about all his mishaps and demands restitution. Van Warmerdam’s characteristic grim sense of humour and the many hilarious guest appearances by renowned Dutch thespians make this a film you’re not likely to forget. In Dutch.

South Pacific Sat 20.15 There's No Business Like Show Business Sun 17.00 Titanic Sun 12.30 La Voyage en ballon Fri 19.30 Widescreen Weekend Fri-Sun. Het Illuseum Witte de Withstraat 120, 770 5581 Medea Wed 19.30.

Het Ketelhuis Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg 8-10, 684 0090 China Blue Sat, Sun 12.45 Elementarteilchen/Elementaire deeltjes daily 16.45, 21.45 Forever daily 18.00, 20.00, 22.00, Sat, Sun, Wed also 16.00 Herman Brood Uncut Fri 21.00 Into Great Silence daily 18.45, Sat, Sun, Wed 13.00 Ober daily 17.30, 19.30, Sat, Sun, Wed also 12.30 Het Paard van Sinterklaas Sat, Sun, Wed 14.45, Wed also 12.45 Zwartboek daily 21.30, Sat, Sun, Wed also 14.30.

Kriterion Roetersstraat 170, 623 1708 An Inconvenient Truth daily 20.00, Thur also 22.30, Fri, Sat also 22.00, 0.30, Sat, Sun also 14.00 Buddha's Lost Children daily 16.00 Elementarteilchen/Elementaire deeltjes daily 17.45, Sun, Tues, Wed also 22.00 Forever daily 18.15, Thur-Mon, Wed also 16.30 The Killing Mon 22.00 Ober daily 20.15, Thur-Mon, Wed also 22.15, Sat also 14.30, Fri, Sat also 0.15 Sneak Preview Tues 22.00 Turtles Can Fly Sun 13.00.

Melkweg Cinema Lijnbaansgracht 234A, 624 1777 Amator Thur 20.00 Blind Change Sun 20.00 The Calm Mon 20.00 Dekalog 5 & 6 Sun 13.30 Dekalog 7 & 8 Sun 16.00 Dekalog 9 & 10 Tues 20.00 Krzysztof Kieslowski:A Masterclass for young directors Wed 20.00 Metal:A Headbanger's Journey Thur, Sun 22.15, Fri, Sat, MonWed 22.00 Trois Couleurs: Bleu Fri, Sat 20.00.

The Movies Haarlemmerdijk 159-165, 638 6016 An Inconvenient Truth daily 17.30, 19.45, 21.45, Fri, Sat also 23.45, Sun also 13.00, Sat, Sun, Wed also 15.15 Baas in Eigen Bos Sat, Sun, Wed 15.00, Sun also 12.30 Brick daily 21.30 Cars (NL) Sat, Sun, Wed 14.15, Sun also 12.00 Nachtrit daily 17.00, 19.30, 22.00, Sun also 12.45, Fri, Sat also 0.15 Night on Earth Fri, Sat 0.00 Taxi Driver Fri, Sat 0.15 Volver daily 17.00, 19.30, 22.00, Sat, Sun, Wed also 14.30 The Wind That Shakes the Barley daily 16.30, 19.00.

OT301 Overtoom 301, 779 4913 i Wed 20.30 Marx Brothers at the Circus Sun 22.00 Marx Brothers Go West Sun 20.30.

Pathé ArenA ArenA Boulevard 600, 0900 1458 Afblijven daily 13.30, 16.05, 18.30, Sat, Sun also 10.50 Baas in Eigen Bos Fri-Sun, Wed 14.30, Sat, Sun, Wed also 12.20, 16.45, Sun also 10.05 Baas in Eigen Bos (IMAX) Fri-Sun, Wed 14.45, Sat, Sun, Wed also 12.30, Sat, Sun also 10.15 Cars (NL) Sat, Sun, Wed 14.35, Sat, Sun also 11.15 The Devil Wears Prada daily 13.10, 15.55, 18.55, 21.40, Sat,

(BS) 97 min. Cinecenter, Het Ketelhuis, Kriterion, Pathé ArenA, Pathé De Munt, Pathé Tuschinski Requiem Michaela grows up in a deeply religious family in southern Germany. When she leaves home for university and discovers a more secular world, she begins to question her faith. At the same time, her epileptic seizures grow worse. She consults a priest who confirms she is possessed by the devil. Her friends urge her to seek psychiatric help, but in the end can only watch as Michaela’s devout religious convictions lead to her doom. Based on a true story, Requiem is directed by Hans-Christian Schmid. In German with Dutch subtitles 93 min. Rialto The Road to Guantanamo Directors Michael Winterbottom and Mat Whitecross have released a movie that details the most serious case of wrong time/wrong place you’ve ever heard of as four UK Pakistanis are caught in the crossfire of the War on Terror in Afghanistan. This gripping political docudrama will leave you outraged at governments and inspired by the tenacity of the human spirit. (SC) 95 min. Cinema Amstelveen SL8N8 After a drought lasting over a decade, the Dutch film scene is again awash with the blood of young starlets, shed in DoodEind and SL8N8 (Slachtnacht). Although comparing the two is inevitable, SL8N8 has enough quality to stand on its own as a workman-like slasher that’s a slice above the rest.

Impressive gore and surprisingly witty banter help the adequate performances in a tale of ‘bored teenagers meet body-hopping voodoo killer in an old mine shaft’. The ending might be a bit too predictable for modern audiences, but as a salute to the old-school slasher flicks, it succeeds with crimson colours. In Dutch. (LvH) 90 min. Pathé ArenA, Pathé De Munt Snakes on a Plane After a veritable tsunami of popcultural craftsmanship, this plucky little B-movie might not live up to everyone’s expectations. But if you want to see one-dimensional characters scream their heads off while fighting off snakes (on a plane), you’re in for a rollercoaster ride of a treat. Just leave your brains at home. (LvH) 105 min. Pathé ArenA, Pathé De Munt

Sun also 10.25 El Custodio daily 18.00, 20.20, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 13.00, 15.25 Garfield 2 (NL) Sat, Sun, Wed 12.10, 14.15, 16.15, Sun also 10.10 The Grudge 2 Fri-Wed 21.45 Jackass: Number Two daily 12.40, 15.00, 17.20, 19.45, 22.00, Sun also 10.20 The Merchant of Venice Tues 13.30 De Mierenmepper Sat, Sun, Wed 13.35, 15.50, Sat, Sun also 11.10 My Super Ex-Girlfriend daily 19.05, 21.30, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 13.20, 15.35 Nachtrit daily 19.30, 21.55, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 12.00, 17.00, Thur, Mon, Tues also 14.30 Ober daily 20.30 Open Season daily 11.50, 14.00, 16.10, 18.20 Open Season (IMAX) daily 17.10, 19.25, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 12.30, Thur, Mon, Tues also 14.45, Thur also 21.45 Over the Hedge: Beesten bij de Buren Sat, Sun, Wed 12.15, Sat, Sun also 10.00 Het Paard van Sinterklaas Sat, Sun, Wed 13.20, 15.45, Sat, Sun also 11.00 Piet Piraat en het Vliegende Schip Sat, Sun, Wed 12.15, 13.55, 15.35, 17.15, Sat, Sun also 10.40 Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest daily 17.40, 20.45, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 14.10 The Sentinel daily 21.10 SL8N8 daily 22.05 Snakes on a Plane daily 19.15, 21.50, Thur, Mon, Tues also 11.55, 14.20, 16.45 Sneak Preview Tues 21.00 Step Up daily 18.40, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 16.15, Thur, Fri, Mon also 13.45 Stormbreaker daily 12.50, 15.15, 17.30, 19.55, Sun also 10.30 The Wicker Man Thur-Mon, Wed 21.00 De Wilde Bende Fri-Sun, Wed 12.10, 14.20, 16.30, Sat, Sun also 10.00 World Trade Center daily 18.45, 21.45, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 12.15, 15.45 Zwartboek daily 12.05, 15.10, 18.15, 21.20.

Pathé City Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 15-19, 623 4570 Afblijven daily 16.00, 18.30, Sat, Sun also 13.10 Baas in Eigen Bos Sat, Sun, Wed 16.10, Sat, Sun also 13.30 Cars (NL) Sat, Sun 13.20 The Devil Wears Prada daily 15.30, 18.15, 21.30, Sat, Sun also 12.45 Jackass: Number Two daily 19.15, 21.50, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 16.10 De Mierenmepper Sat, Sun, Wed 16.15 Nachtrit daily 19.00, 21.40, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 16.15 Piet Piraat en het Vliegende Schip Sat, Sun, Wed 15.40, Sat, Sun also 13.00 Sneak Preview Tues 21.30 World Trade Center Thur-Mon, Wed 21.00 Zwartboek daily 18.00, 21.10, Thur, Fri, Mon, Tues also 15.00.

Pathé De Munt Vijzelstraat 15, 0900 1458 Afblijven daily 16.15, 18.30, Fri-Mon, Wed also 13.45, Sat, Sun also 11.10 An Inconvenient Truth Sun-Wed 13.30, 15.50, 18.10, 20.30 Baas in Eigen Bos Fri-Sun, Wed 12.30, 14.30, 16.30, Sat, Sun also 10.30 Brick Thur-Sat 15.50, 18.10, Fri, Sat also 13.30, Sat also 11.00 Crash (2005) Tues 13.30 The Devil Wears Prada Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed 15.30, 18.20, 21.15, Fri, Sun-Wed also 12.30, Sat 11.30, 14.30, 17.30, 20.30, 23.15, Sun-Wed also 20.45 The Grudge 2 Fri 22.05, Sat 23.45 Jackass: Number Two Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed 14.00, 16.30, 19.00, 21.30, Sat 13.30, 16.00, 18.30, 21.00, 23.30, Sat, Sun also 11.15

12-18 October 2006 Tapas Five interlocking stories set in a Barcelona neighbourhood. By first-time directors José Corbacho and Juan Cruz. In Spanish with Dutch subtitles. 94 min. Cinecenter Va,Vis et Deviens During the 1984 famine in Ethiopia, a desperate mother comes up with a plan to rescue her nine-year-old son: he must claim that he is Jewish and join the migration of Ethiopian Jews to Israel. An ambitious film about identity from Romanian director Radu Mihaileanu. In Amharic/Hebrew/French with Dutch subtitles. 140 min. Cinecenter

Volver Almodóvar is growing up. After provoking the public with explicit sex and his subversive sense of humour, the Spanish director now shows us there’s more to life than (just) sex, drugs and travesty. This is a heartfelt story about the long-overdue reunion of a daughter (Penélope Cruz) and the ghost of her mother (Carmen Maura). Fans of Almodóvar’s earlier work might be disappointed that carnal pleasures have been replaced by genuine emotions, but viewers should realise that humanism was just what his films needed. In Spanish with Dutch subtitles. (BS) 120 min.

Cinecenter, The Movies, Pathé Tuschinski World Trade Center Oliver Stone’s effective if hokey 9/11 docudrama focuses on the two Port Authority policemen (played by Nicolas Cage and Michael Peña) who were rescued from the rubble of the Twin Towers, their families as they wait for news and a former marine (Michael Shannon) who winds up on one of the rescue teams. An exercise in flag-waving, it evokes nostalgia for WWII epics and the camaraderie of Stone’s Platoon. (JR) 125 min. The Movies, Pathé ArenA, Pathé City, Pathé De Munt

Zwartboek In the closing days of World War II, a

Jewish cabaret artiste, Rachel Steinn (Carice van Houten), watches as her hiding place is bombed and her family betrayed to the Nazis. She joins a resistance group (which meets in a morgue) but learns that no one can be trusted. For plotting, thrills and cynicism this is Paul Verhoeven’s best work since Total Recall. In Dutch / English / German / Hebrew. (JP) 139 min. Het Ketelhuis, Pathé ArenA, Pathé City, Pathé De Munt, Pathé Tuschinski

Miami Vice Thur-Sat 20.45 De Mierenmepper Sat, Sun, Wed 13.30, Sat, Sun also 11.20 My Super Ex-Girlfriend Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed 22.00, Thur also 14.15, 16.30, Fri-Wed also 17.30, 19.45, Sat also 22.30, Mon, Tues also 13.00, 15.15 Nachtrit Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed 14.20, 16.45, 19.15, 21.45, Fri, SunWed also 12.00, Sat, Sun also 10.40, Sat also 13.00, 15.20, 17.45, 20.15, 22.45 Ober Sun-Tues 16.50, 19.20, 21.40 Open Season daily 14.50, 17.00, 19.10, Fri-Wed also 12.45, Sat, Sun also 10.30 Het Paard van Sinterklaas Fri-Sun, Wed 13.00, 15.00, Sat, Sun also 11.00 Piet Piraat en het Vliegende Schip Fri-Sun, Wed 13.00, 15.15, Sat, Sun also 10.45 Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest Thur-Sat, Wed 18.40, Thur also 15.40, Mon, Tues also 12.40 See No Evil Thur, Sat, Wed 22.05 The Sentinel Thur, Mon, Tues 14.30, 17.45, Thur, Fri also 20.15, Sat 20.00, 22.45, Mon, Tues also 12.15 SL8N8 daily 21.20, Sat also 23.20 Snakes on a Plane daily 17.10, 19.30, Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed also 21.50, Thur, Mon, Tues also 14.45, Sat also 22.30, Mon, Tues also 12.15 Step Up daily 17.00, 19.20, 21.45, Thur, Mon, Tues also 14.50, Mon, Tues also 12.30 Stormbreaker Fri-Sun, Wed 12.30, 14.50, Sat, Sun also 10.15 The Wicker Man Thur-Sat 20.30, Sat also 23.00 De Wilde Bende Fri-Sun, Wed 12.00, 14.20 World Trade Center daily 15.45, 18.25, Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed also 21.35, Fri, Mon, Tues also 13.00, Sat also 21.05 Zwartboek daily 15.00, 18.00, 21.00, Fri-Wed also 12.00, SunWed also 18.20, 21.20.

Pathé Tuschinski Reguliersbreestraat 34, 0900 1458 An Inconvenient Truth Thur-Sat 16.15, 19.00, 21.15, Fri, Sat also 13.15 Baas in Eigen Bos Sat, Sun, Wed 12.45 Buddha's Lost Children Wed 13.15, 16.15 Crash (2005) Thur 13.30 The Devil Wears Prada Thur-Sat 15.45, 18.45, 21.45, Fri, Sat also 13.00, Wed 13.30 Elementarteilchen/Elementaire deeltjes Thur-Sun, Wed 15.00, Thur-Sat, Wed also 20.45 Forever Thur-Sat, Wed 18.30, Fri-Sun, Wed also 12.45 Ober Fri-Sun, Wed 16.30, Thur-Sat, Wed also 19.00, 22.00, Sat, Sun also 13.45 Volver Thur-Sun, Wed 15.15, Thur-Sat, Wed also 18.00, 21.00, Fri also 12.15 Zwartboek Thur-Sat 15.30, 21.30, Fri, Sat also 12.30, 18.30, Wed 14.30.

Rialto Ceintuurbaan 338, 676 8700 13 (Tzameti) Sat 23.00 Aimée & Jaguar Sun 15.30 Brokeback Mountain Fri 16.00, Sun 11.15 The Cave of the Yellow Dog Thur, Sat-Wed 17.45 Dam Street Fri 15.45, Sat, Wed 16.00 Enfant endormi, L' daily 19.45, 21.45, Sat also 13.45 Grbavica Sat, Sun, Wed 15.45 Into Great Silence Fri-Sun, Wed 15.15, Sat also 18.15, Sun also 12.00 The Manchurian Candidate (1962) Sun 11.00 NFTA Lichting 2006 Fri 23.00 Requiem daily 21.15, Thur, Fri, Sun-Wed also 19.15, Sat also 13.15 The Story of the Weeping Camel Sun 13.45 Taxidermia daily 18.00, 20.00, 22.00, Sat, Sun also 13.30.

De Uitkijk Prinsengracht 452, 623 7460 Buddha's Lost Children daily 17.15 Forever daily 21.15, Thur-Sat 19.15, Sun-Wed 19.15 with English subtitles, Sun also 15.15.

12-18 October 2006

Amsterdam Weekly

Sour sweet Seoul food Arirang Marnixstraat 198, 620 0962 Open Wed-Mon 18.00-23.00 Cash, PIN, major credit cards Bang next-door to a coffeeshop there awaited a dining treat. I was about to embark upon my first experience of Korean cuisine—and it certainly won’t be my last. Entering this lacquered box I felt something shift from the street’s hurly-burly to a refined atmosphere.

I was greeted by a smiling, black-clad lady who welcomed me to my table which I had earlier reserved—and so must you—even on a Monday night. Her musical voice was as refreshing as the hot cloth she set before me. I ordered Korean tea to sip while I studied the menu. Ah...

This was a good start.

The walls were adorned with pictures of cherry blossoms and sages revealing wisdom to youth. There was a gallery of little porcelain facemasks. Lovely carved furniture. The splitlevel restaurant was decorated as way into another culture. No north-south conflict here: the only hot-lipped action taking place in Arirang is feasting.

The menu offered different set meals ranging from €20 to €29 (the one I chose), and a mega-posh one for at least two people, which costs €39 a head.

The couple sitting at a nearby table were picking at succulent marinated meat with metal chopsticks from a hissing table grill. They continuously used their mobile phones as friends kept interrupting to wish them ‘happy birthday!’

THE UNDERCOVER GLUTTON Rice, beef, pickles: the idea was a parcel wrapped in lettuce leaves. A smear of sauce, vegetables, radish: everything rolled into a mouth-watering cylinder.

My meal began with three tasty little fried dumplings filled with mincemeat and accompanied by mandu twigim—a light soy and vinegar dipping sauce. Three bites—all gone.

Afterwards, a home-made hot and sour miso soup with spinach. Good for protection against the cold—and flavoursome.

Next came a dish that revealed the artistic

25

skill and feeling of the chef: steamed shrimps on a bed of the thinnest-cut cucumber and daikon, accompanied by a sweetish horseradish and mustard sauce, a parsley sprig and a minute twist of lemon. All together, the ingredients created a Lilliputian island. No mandolin had been used to cut this cucumber. It was sliced by the owner’s mother, Mama San, who had the chi in her capable hands. Every element was so small, it looked as if this food haiku had been made by a skilled microsurgeon.

And then the pièce de résistance arrived: a grill with what looked like a metal helmet perched on top. It had a lip running right around it and a moat to catch the dripping juices. I felt like some huge bird of prey about to feed.

The waitress set a series of porcelain dishes before my goggling eyes. Shredded pickled vegetables; hot and sour radish in chilli oil; steamed rice; kim chee, the pickled cabbage that accompanies practically every meal; a bean and soya paste with barbeque sauce; a basket filled with crisp lettuce leaves.

On the grill, beef strips marinated in soy and garlic sauce began to sizzle, releasing smells that made me salivate.

Rice, beef, pickles: the idea was create a parcel wrapped in the lettuce leaves. A smear of bean sauce, vegetables, radish: everything rolled into a mouth-watering cylinder. And... Gosh!

What a gong-crashing taste experience. The combination of sweet, sour, hot and salty. The different textures of fresh and pickled vegetables as I chewed made me feel like I was levitating with pleasure.

The meal was enough to fill me without leaving me bloated—the Glutton entered as a hungry ghost but did not leave as a full moon—and was beautifully composed, a symphony that has me chuckling with remembered joy.

Amsterdam Weekly

26

WEEKLY CLASSIFIEDS Ads are free, space permitting. They will be posted both to the paper and online. Guaranteed placement is available for a small fee; see our website for details. Ads may be published in English, het Nederlands or whatever language is best for you to communicate your message. How to submit an ad: via our website at www.amsterdamweekly.nl, by fax at 020 620 1666 or post to Amsterdam Weekly, De Ruyterkade 106, 1011 AB Amsterdam. Deadline: Monday at 12.00, the week of publication.

AD OF THE WEEK CIRCUSPERFORMERS & cabarat acts wanted to wow my friends at my birthday party in A’dam on 24 Nov. If you’re cheap and cheerful (although cheap and macabre works for me too).

Please email me with details at madamedodo@hotmail.com.

HOUSING OFFERED 2 ROOMS IN OUD-WESTCharming 2-room apt on first floor with 1 bedroom, living room & open kitchen, bathroom in Oud-West.

Available immediately for 2 months from 8 Oct-8 Dec. €500/mth all incl. Classically decorated. Contact Michael on 06 2919 1410 or info@decameleon.nl today!

Non-smokers & reliable folks welcome.

2E KOSTVERLORENKADE From 1 Nov, 2-bedroom apt for rent for half-year to possibly 1 year, furnished. Living room, large kitchen, 2 bedrooms, newly renovated bathroom with bath, balcony, washing machine. Great canal view. Close to Ten Kate Markt. €1000/mth. Please call 616 7720.

NIEUWMARKT A’DAM CENTRE Very nice apt for rent. Two floors, light, quiet and comfortable.

From 28 Nov till end of March ’07 or longer. Rent €900/mth incl. One month deposit. Call 06 1020 1242.

CENTER PLACE FOR RENT Very nice and peaceful, from Nov to (still to define date). Excellent area in center, nice view to interior garden, much light. For very quiet people. €750 all incl.

Deposit. Info: 06 1526 0050.

2 BDRM APTON STADIONKADE Fully furnished and renovated.

Available 3 months from end Oct to end Jan. €1500 excl. Tel 06 5580 8041.

HOUSING WANTED APT WANTEDProfessional cou-

ple seeking apt for rent. Ideally €800/mth. Please call 06 2856 3105.

6/7-ROOM APT/HOUSELooking for 6/7-room apt/house to rent for 6 persons in A’dam. About €400 per person. Call 06 4439 7280.

STUDIO/ROOM WANTEDAudio engineering student from Colorado looking for room/studio in or close to A’dam centrum from1 Nov until July ‘07. Please contact Johnathan at 06 2911 4108.

APT WANTED Young gal with cat must move in a month and has nowhere to go! Looking to rent/sublet for €600 max. For 1 or 2 people. Call me! 06 2424 2379.

Feel free to contact us: 06 1415 0474/06 1130 4479.

DIEMEN Single room, fully furnished with internet, shared facilities (kitchen, bathroom, toilet), available from 1 Oct. Located in Diemen center. 8m2. €170/mth all incl. Females only. carolhph@gmail.com.

ROOM TO LET Furnished double room to let in nice house with garden. €400/mth. Call Benon 06 5431 3499.

ROOM in apt near club Panama. Flatmates: 4 students. Dec ’06 & Jan ’07 to rent: €357/month incl gwl, internet.

View in backyard, boats at

frontside. Email astrid_mc@ yahoo.com.

WORK OFFERED CAMERA MAN WANTED Journalist is looking for camera man (professional or amateur) to shoot documentary film and send it to international film fest.

Contact Lela by email: lelamose@gmail.com You should have passion to shoot and create great documentary!

BICYCLE TAXI DRIVER Are you a sporty, outgoing person & want to work for yourself? Do you want to stay fit by working as a bicycle taxi driver? Then contact Geisha taxi where you get

opportunity to be outdoors all day & earn at least €200/day.

Interested? Then call 06 5376 6116/06 1241 5766 or email info@geishataxi.nl.

PART-TIME WORK German speaker needed to contact German advertising agencies for freelance agency 1 day/wk.

Send CV to info@thecollectiveeurope.com.

TALK FOR A LIVING! Have you worked in sales or telesales?

Confident manner? Able to talk intelligently in English? We need you. Full-time 40 hrs/wk. Better than average basic, high commission. Send CV to promarket99@yahoo.com.

TALK TO MAKE MONEY Telephone sales professionals! Great basic salary, great bonus incentive. If you can talk to people on the phone in English and give them information you can make great money! No cold calling.

All calls are made following a request for information. promarket99@yahoo.co.uk.

VOICE OVER KID www.globalkidsshow.com is looking for

12-18 October 2006 a kid to do a voice over for the Australian and New Zealand segments of Global Kids Show.

Requirements are: you’re a kid, male, British accent, able to read well in English, entertaining voice. Please call Allison on 06 2824 3216 or globalkidsshow@gmail.com.

STORE PARTS AND SHIP American company needs native Dutch person to keep instrument spare parts in house and ship them out by DHL when required. This will take 1-2 hrs/day. Email laszlo@compumodules.com.

WORK WANTED BABYSITTER/CLEANER Highly experienced 22 y.o. female seeks employment. Consider myself flexible, trustworthy, hardworking with a first aid course.

Excellent references. Contact me at lie_rad@hotmail.com.

ERVAREN BOUWVAKKERKlusser bied zich aan voor slopen, schilderen en kleine binneshuisrenovatie zoals alminaat, sanitair, etc. Heeft u nog

een ander klus die geklaard moet worden neem dan gerust kontakt met 06 3877 3473/06 4815 1493 of email nomisraisangel2@hotmail.com.

SEEKING PT WORK English speaking male, 31, highly intelligent, multi-talented, friendly and ready for whatever. Please email jaymail_2000@ yahoo.com.

WORK WANTED I need cleaning or children caretaker work.

Please contact Ijlal Elfakir on ijlal22@hotmail.com or 061601 8277.

LOCAL FILM/TV CREW Production secretary/assistant looking for work within or around A’dam.

Have own transport and feature film experience. Currently available weekends, but available full-time as of 9 Dec. Email alekasattik@hotmail.com.

FOR SALE COLOURFUL HOME FURNISHINGS Recently opened bright & colourful little home furnishings store. Many nice home accessories for yourself or for a gift.

Opposites Attract, Marnixstraat 65D, 612 2605, Open Tues & Thur–Sun.

FLAT FOR NICE COUPLEMy girlfriend and I are looking for apt/studio or1 bedroom for long term stay. Both working, willing to pay up €900/mth incl. Contact Amy on 06 2546 2160.

WINEUnique South African quality wines. Prices range from €4.95-€15.75. We do B2B and B2C wine tastings. Website www.coza.nl or email info@coza.nl.

APT NEEDED Quiet Canadian couple working full-time seeking furnished 1-bdrm apt in A’dam Centrum or Westerpark.

Available to move in immediately and would like to stay for 9-12 months, max €700/mth incl. A’dam references available. Please email henry_melissa@hotmail.com.

BEAUTIFUL TEAK BOAT Antique Clinker boat of teak & oak, English built (Lowe & Son, circa1938). 5.95m x 2.1m x 0.9m.

10HP in board engine (spare sold with boat). Ideal for A’dam canal cruises. I am moving. Call Captain J on 06 5256 3449.

HOUSING TO SHARE A'DAM ZUID Per direkt: looking for woman to share apt in south of A’dam (next to Stadionweg).

Rent €400 incl, registration possible, internet available. Call Inge on 06 2317 5346.

JUST MOVED HERE?1x double bed, 1x Ranger bike & chain, 2 x sim cards (1x NL, 1x cheap int’l calls), 1x blind. All bought new 3 months ago for over €350 & now selling for €200 for package or individually. Slotermeer.

Chino505@hotmail.com.

APT SHARE WANTED Nice & friendly girl looking for apt to share with nice people in A’dam, approx €500 incl. From 1 Nov or later. Please email dbarmagen@gmail.com.

BATAVUS BIKE A great poet left town and her bike with it. 1 month-old 3-speed Batavus Personal with baby seat, bags, incl 2 locks. Perfect for new arrivals and inspiration! Originally €750, now €600. poetsbike@ gmail.com.

FLAT FOR US?2 creative friends looking for flat to share. Ideally, would be €400 each room.

DARKROOM EQUIPMENT for sale! Developer & colour mixer available. Plus tools and old

chemicles for free. Email me for details: madamedodo@hotmail.com.

SERVICES AMERICAN AVAILABLE!American female with much experience, currently residing in A’dam/Utrecht areas available for childcare, music lessons and English tutoring! kida1010@yahoo.com.

ENGLISH MAN WITH VAN can help with removals big or small, in or outside of country. Reasonable rates, quick service.

Contact Lee on 06 2388 2184 or isabelleandlee@planet.nl.

BEST MOVINGSERVICE IN TOWN Driver with van (10m3) or truck (40m3) available. Plus extra moving men, hoisting rope and elevator. Any combinations possible. Call Taco on 06 4486 4390, email info@vrachttaxi.com or check out www.vrachttaxi.com.

FRED'S PET CARE Do you need someone to take care of your pets? Friendly dog walker with references. Available from7.0020.00. Reasonable rates. Just call Fred on 06 4994 7980.

HALLOWEEN'SCOMING UPHip cats & kittens: if ya don’t shake a leg you’ll have nothing to wear to the ball! Costume advice + experienced sewing for a measly €8/hr. Call 470 5801 or 06 2547 5277.

CUSTOM PHOTOSHOOTS We are photographer, Elena Kulikova (elenakulikova.com), and wardrobe stylist, Kallah Maguire (kallahmaguire.com). We offer custom photoshoots for anyone that wants great pictures, for any reason personal or professional. Please contact us with your questions at CustomPhotoshoots@gmail.com.

DESIGN DRESSMAKING Professional lady designs and makes your evening wear, mens wear, slacks, skirts, dresses, tops, etc., from your own personal choice of design or fabric (not leather). Contact velsyl@yahoo.com or 488 9346.

BOOKKEEPER/ADMIN Professional lady does your bookkeeping, taxes, secretarial, administration, manual or accounting package. NL + Eng. Westerpark. Contact velsyl@ yahoo.com/ 488 9346.

Amsterdam Weekly

12-18 October 2006 YOUR PHOTOGRAPHER Going to have big party, meeting or celebration and need someone to make best photos of the day? Contact me: amateur photographer with Canon EOS 300D! Lashawill@gmail.com or http://foto4all.tripod.com And remember: photos are the best way to keep your memories close to you!

LAST BOAT TRIPSBefore the winter is really here, classic yacht, fits up to 6 people, for any purpose, €7-€10 p.p. Contact 06 2557 7882, go.amsterdam@gmail.com.

HEALTH & WELLNESS NATURAL HEALINGMedical Practice Wassenaar for energy therapy, hypno therapy and medical herbal treatment. Works for all physical and mental problems and illnesses. For information and appointment contact Bernard Trip on 070 302 0451 or mobile, 06 2865 1610.

Also courses and workshops in personal development.

PERSONAL COACHINGSlender You relaxation for body and mind. Fine-tune your conditioning and maximise your figure. Personal coaching for people with medical or health issues.

1 hour Slender You = 7 hours traditional work out! Slender You is located on Heverleestraat 1. Call 669 6641 for more info.

MEDITATION/HEALINGBring harmony to your life. This class teaches ‘Sat Nam Rasayan’, a very gentle healing art that works on a deep level. Very old, very simple & very effective. You will learn to meditate: a tool which strengthens the entire physical, mental & emotional being. Call Har Kirat Kaur on 061146 4372.

FACIALS IPL ELECT British beauty therapist. 25 yrs experience, cidesco, babtac, anbos, laser hair removal: advanced electrolysis: Brazilian waxing: P8N8 oxygen skin care, anti-age facials, at McTavish Hair Salon, Quelli-

27 your own rhythm. Fun classes with emphasis on conversation. And, not expensive! 2 months for €200 (evening classes, 2x2 hrs p/wk). Call 420 8146 or visit us at WWW.JOOSTWEETHET.NL.

jnstraat 80, De Pijp, A’dam. Contact0640799921orvisitwww.lindayoungaesthetics.com.

YOGA TEACHERReiki healer and self empowerment/spiritual life coach. Visit www.empowerall.eu or call 06 5210 1547.

IYENGAR YOGAClasses in A’dam Oud-Zuid (off Stadionweg). Tram 24 Every Tues 12.15-13.45. Certified teacher. Small group, individual attention given. For further details or to reserve a place, please email rolaine@xs4all.nl or call 06 4348 9029.

CERTIFIED LIFE COACH Realise your own impact, your own goals and sustain them. www.norriscoaching.com or info@norriscoaching.com.

PILATES STUDIOFully equipped Pilates studio with Reformer, Cadillac, Wunda Chair and Spine Corrector. Improve your strength, flexibility, posture, body awareness and more! Visit www.pilatesamsterdam.nl or call 06 2893 2706. Private lessons only. Fully certified instuctor.

HEALING/CONSULTATION As I was blessed by spirit with psychic abilities, I believe that I must be able to share my gifts with those in need of guidance.

I hope to give you insight into your own life, and might bring clarification where you have questions. Cost consultation: €40. Ph. Marize 06 2936 3066.

HOME IMPROVEMENT PAINTER + HANDYMANI’m available to paint inside and outside + lend a helping handy hand.

Reasonable rates. Lots of practical and professional experience. Good references available. Call now! Daco: 06 4275 6045.

COMPUTERS NEED A STUNNING WEBSITE? Experienced web designer builds professional, unique sites for very reasonable prices.

Online links to past projects

available. Contact Jordan: jordangcz@yahoo.com, 06 3034 1238.

PC/NETWORK EXPERT Friendly, Microsoft certified,12+ years of experience, will solve any SW/HW problem including virus/spyware removal, data recovery, networking, ADSL/cable/wireless installation, backups, consulting & upgrading. Matan 06 2714 6026.

PC HOUSE DOCTORSpecialised in virus/spyware removal, H/W, S/W repair, data recovery, wireless, cable/ADSL installation and computer lessons from friendly and experienced Microsoft professional for reasonable price. Contact Mario at 06 1644 8230.

MASSAGE 1-YEAR MASSAGE COURSE Il cielo offers 1-year massage course where you can learn holistic massage, foot reflexology, craniosacral and energy work combined to be able to work on people in different ways.

Weekly lesson of 4 hrs each evening and/or weekend. Info: il cielo, 06 3004 9738 or visit www.ilcielo.4t.com.

MASSAGE COURSE Bio-energetic balancing massage course. 3 weekends: 28/29 Oct; 4/5 Nov; 9/10 Dec. A perfect synthesis between skill and selfdevelopment. www.tensiontamers.nl or call 06 4128 6040.

COURSES BIO COOKING CLASSES using organic ingredients from an NYC chef. Personal chef services, catering and consulting are also available. Visit www.justnosh.com or contact 06 2509 2117, joslyn@justnosh.com.

LEARN TAI CHI for balance in body, mind & spirit, for health and relaxation &/or as training for self-defense. Jacob Obrechtstraat. Free introduction lesson.

See www.taiyang.nl or call 623 0835.

INTUITIVE & CREATIVECareer & Intuition 3 days; Clairvoyance training 8 evenings; workshop Love & Fear; Starts 21, 27 & 29 Oct. Free Intro evening. Info: careerandintuition@hotmail.com.

PIANO LESSONS Piano studio Groenburgwal. Husband and wife team, Dutch/American, have openings in their teaching studio.10 years experience teaching piano to expatriat families at the American School in The Hague. All ages and levels welcome. Call 624 0602.

SIVANANDA HATHA YOGAOpen for all levels, drop-in basis, Tues 10.00–11.30, €10 per lesson/€8 trial lesson. Pregnancy yoga for all stages of pregnancy, Thur 17.30-19.00, €50 for 4-class card (valid 6 wks). Contact Burcin Ozyurek: 06 4112 8894, burcinozyurek@yahoo.com or

www.aurora-holisticcenter.nl/cursusus.htm.

ELECTRIC BASSLESSONS Beginners and advanced, different music styles: jazz, rock, funk, salsa, R&B. Improvisation techniques and musical theory. Individual lessons, max 2 students per lesson with discount. Contact 06 4325 9603/dnbass@gmail.com.

HYPNOSIS WORKSHOP 21, 22 Oct in A’dam. How do we create our reality? What is the relationship between thoughts, emotions and creation? How can we create the reality we choose? What is hypnosis? Am I psychic? For more information, email nick@self-hypnotherapy.com or call 06 3830 2102.

BELLY DANCE COURSE starts Thur 9 Nov at 19.00. Studio in A’dam West. www.zerzura.info, 681 0072. This timeless woman’s dance creates a positive body image, regardless of age or shape.

VOICE MOVEMENT training.

Vocal dance and voice movement integration. Intensive training over 5 weekends from Thurs to Mon, total 25 days. Nov 2006 to June 2007. Course begins 9 Nov. Contact info@patriciabardi.com/06 1203 8733.

YOGAYOGA.NL offers Hatha, Iyengar and Vinyasa Flow classes. Daily morning and evening, in English, in A’dam close to

Jordaan. Also classes in the weekend: 3 on Sat as well as monthly Sun workshops. Visit www.yogayoga.nl or call 688 3418.

ENTREPRENEUR Multi-million telecom company offers fantastic possibilty for you to become an entrepreneur but not by yourself. You’ll be working part-time/full-time in a teamwork in19 countries and expanding. Training will be provided.

Interested? Contact reneanest@wanadoo.nl.

LANGUAGES LANGUAGE COACH Would speaking Dutch make you feel better? Call 625 3231 or go to www.talencoach.com.

DUTCH COURSESNew evening courses starting in Sept, centre of A’dam. €200 for 20 hrs. Visit www.mercuurtaal.nl or call 693 4250.

INTENSIVE DUTCH COURSES are not only for summertime.

At Joost Weet Het! the sun always shines. Our new intensive courses start 16 Oct and 20 Nov. Classes 4 x 4 hrs per week for €7.5 per hour. 2, 3 or 4 weeks course. All levels. Call 420 8146 or visit www.JOOSTWEETHET.NL or email info@aprenderholandes.nl.

LEARNING DUTCH THETHE EASY WAY Joost Weet Het! offers classes on various levels. Learn that easy Dutch grammar in

SPANISH COURSES 2 x 2 hrs per week for €7.5 per hour. How do I become Don Juan in Spain?

JOOST WEET HET! Courses Spanish for beginners and advanced. Fun classes and not expensive! Qualified native teacher! Call 420 8146 or visit us at www.joostweethet.nl.

DUTCH LESSONSImprove conversation or for professional studies, NT2, indiv lessons, €15/hr, intensive courses, online lessons. Min intensive = €187.50.

Adults & children. http://home.tiscali.nl/stylusphant/indexdutch.html, excellentdutch@hotmail.com, Call 06 3612 2870.

IMPROVE YOUR DUTCH LINK TAAL STUDIO, a professional way to learn Dutch in private & small groups, starting every week, Vijzelgracht 51-55. For more info contact 06 4133 9323 or linktaalstudio@gmail.com.

SPANISH Don’t miss a Spanish class from a native teacher from Barcelona! Groups on Thur, Tues and Fri. Also private lessons.

Gezellig! More info? Email aidamussach@gmail.com.

FRENCH CLASSESDo you want to learn French? Lessons for all levels by native teacher. Email on_ze_road@hotmail.com or call 06 1390 9357.

MUSICIANS PIANIST WANTED for torch singer; boy, girl, black, white, old, young, doesn’t matter, but you must have an affinity for all things burlesque and have a dark sense of humour. Email fflyy22@hotmail.com or call 06 3045 5627 an’ don’t leave a message cos mama don’t have no credit right about now!

DRUMMER WANTED Fantastic country band ‘trigger’, famed from A’dam hot spots, needs drummer. Do you shuffle? Do you drink? And can you swing to a country rhythm? Check us out at www.xs4all.nl/~mattw/Trigger/Home.html and drop me a line at mattw@xs4all.nl or on 06 2953 2794.

PERSONALS SALSA WOMAN? Looking for a dance partner (female) to practice and take salsa lessons. No further nonsense, just salsa dance fun. If you are interested and have taken at least a Basic2 please contact me at BBlomster@gmail.com.

AMPORN PLEASE Contact Jimschillat@aol.com.

ANNOUNCEMENTS KNIT YOURSELF A LIFE! Knitting club, every 2 weeks in De Pijp.

Come for cakes and gossip and get started on that special Christmas gift. All levels, ages and sexes welcome. No previous knowledge or equipment needed.

Starter packs available. Begin 18 Oct. Email b_aysen@hotmail.com or 06 4381 5080.

CHILE BUSCA CHILEwww.chilebuscachile.com free classifieds for Chileans.

WIN TICKETS! Adams’ Multilingual Recruitment. Want to win tickets to the Expatica Fair on 22 Oct, plus the chance to receive a surprise gift? Please go to www.adamsrecruitment.com/competition.htm and put your creative mind to work!

BoB CLUB AMSTERDAMBusiness over Breakfast Membership Club for biz owners/freelancers. Meets every 2 weeks. Guests welcome.

Mon 16 Oct @ 08.00. Email zena@timessence for details.

ARTISTS WANTED (!)for the international art project Urban Ready Mades. Declare your own URM on our website for free! See www.urbanreadymades.com for our checklist!