Amuse_Nov_07 by aMUSE magazine

ISSUE 07

NOVEMBER 2 0 12

GILES

Beauty’s new kingpins

DEACON GETS TECHNICAL

ANNA-MARIE SOLOWIJ & MILLIE KENDALL

RISING STARS

Muse of the month:

ALICE

Lily James & Anna Skellern

TEMPERLEY

TRENDING

WINTER FLORALS GOTHIC DOTS MILITARY

SHOWSTOPPING SHOES Well-heeled for the party season

HEROINE OF THE HOUR

OONA CHAPLIN

PLUS

FRED BUTLER’S technicolour world At home with NATHALIE KABIRI GIZZI ERSKINE’S Top Spot

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Anti-clockwise from right: The Royal Mansour, Marrakech; NARS nail polish £14; Floral clutch, £320, Paul & Joe; Oona Chaplin. Bottom right: Gizzi Erskine

Contents NOVEMBER 2012 88

IN GOOD HA NDS Newby Hands: from Harper’s Bazaar to feeling unique

Features

The Style Files 10

FASHION NEWS Margiela for H&M - and everything else you need to know now!

SHOPPING Attention seeking shoes

THE FAST FASHION FIX Fred Butler’s technicolour dream world

TRENDING # Winter Florals: not such a delicate flower # Gothic: Monday to Sunday Addams # Dots: let’s go dotty # Military: soldiering on

105 INTERIORS

• Nathalie Kabiri’s Hampstead home • News: curate your home with tips from Arianne Levene

108 FOOD

• News: Plush patisserie rules ok • The fifteen-minute pear tatin from Florence Knight

112 THIS MONTH’S MUSE Alice Temperley

Columnists 31

SADIE & IRIS Mother daughter relationships take centre stage.

MY TOP SHOP Gizzi Erksine on food and eyeliner

A MAN ABOUT TOWN Nick Cox’s olfactory swingers

SIX OF THE BEST... Ways to wear embellishment

UNNATURAL BEAUTY Bethan Cole on non-invasive treatments

OBJECT OF DESIRE The saviour bag of the season

Fashion & Beauty

Regulars

COLD SA NDS Luxe attire on the Normandy beaches

AMUSE REVIEWS All the capital’s finest art, film, music, books and shows

TRAVEL • News: Alpina Gstaad’s grand opening • Marvellous Marrakech • Bliss in the Maldives

BEAUTY News: Selfridges Beauty Workshop and Bobbi Brown’s book Nails: perfect your talons Nars: and Andy Warhol

BEAUTY MARKET SWEEP Anna-Marie Solowij and Millie Kendall are on a make-up bag mission

—— T @amuse_mag F facebook.com/amusemagazine ——

THE LADY SINGS THE BLUES Sandi Thom has come a long way from ‘Punk Rocker’

HELLO DAHHLING Parade’s End lady Anna Skellern wants to make us laugh, and succeeds

THE NEW CHAPLIN Charlie’s granddaughter Oona is a fashionable enigma

PICTURES OF LILY Fast Girl Lily James comes to Downton this Christmas

THE POWER BROKER Has marriage softened Amanda Staveley?

FROCK STAR Giles Deacon - style king and down-toearth dude

IN THE CLUB The business of being Helena Morrissey

On the cover

Oona Chaplin, shot by Fabrice Lachant, wears stripe silk and wool top, £449 by Paul Smith, necklace and ring by Ottoman Hands

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

EDITOR’S LETTER HELEN KIRKBRIGHT

reetings. Well, I seem to have acquired a magazine. But as it comes with the tiny but utterly brilliant in-house editorial team of Polly Glass, Fran Mullin and Katie Tillyer, I’ve managed to avoid admission to The Priory. Yet. If you’ve only just joined us, we’ve now been going six months and for November, which is issue seven, I figured it was a good time for a few tweaks. Hoping you like the new configuration opening with The Style Files, where you’ll find everything - from Fashion News, Shopping and Trends to Fast Fashion Fix and Object of Desire - all upfront for instant gratification. But there’s a lot more where that came from: we profile Anna Skellern, Lily James, and, of course, our gorgeous cover star Oona Chaplin – three young actresses currently blowing up and whose credits range from Game of Thrones to Parade’s End and Downton Abbey. And we shoot them dressed in a roll call of designers we love: Paul Smith, Temperley, Cacharel, Ferretti, Emilio de la Morena, Marni, Mark Fast and a smattering of Lulu Frost for good measure. We also have chats with frock-meister Giles Deacon, powerbroker Amanda Staveley, an ever increasing beauty section under the perfectly made-up eye of Arabella Preston plus secrets from a palette of beauty gurus: Newby Hands to Anna Marie Solowij and Millie Kendall. But don’t take my word for it…

Stephanie Hirschmiller stephanie@amusemagazine.co.uk L @stiffyhm

6 | AMUSE

Helen is a fashion photographer from ‘the north’ - she studied photography in Blackpool - and following a stint working in Sydney, is now based in London town where she balances being a professional grown-up with a healthy addiction to glitter. My muse: “Jean Shrimpton she did have the perfect face. I also love watching videos of the Detroit Soul Train club.”

ROBERTO ZAMBELLI

Italian-born fashion photographer, Roberto Zambelli spent many years living in London before settling in Paris, where he currently lectures at the Instituto Marangoni. Setting out to capture the inner-beauty and complexity of his subjects, he has been published in a whole host of magazines from Madame Figaro to Vogue. My muses: “Peter Lindbergh and Richard Avedon.”

AIMEE STEBBING

A former City lawyer, Aimee gave up well-paid, stressful 100-hour weeks when she became a writer. She now copes with stressful, 100-hour weeks for hardly any money. This month Aimee writes about the 30% Club, a subject close to her heart. My muse: “Malala Yousoufzai for her fearlessness in the face of Taliban tyranny and for understanding that education of women equals freedom.“

Contributors

MATILDA LANSDOWN

Matilda is a hair stylist and make-up artist who works at Shoreditch salon Foster London. She has collaborated with MixMag, worked on look-books for Nichole de Carle and Kissing In Traffic, as well as fashion shows for Lee Paton and burlesque performance artists ‘The Freaky Brides’. My muse: “My twin sister Harriet - a true four-dimensional person. We make an extraordinary team.”

ERIKA DE LA BAQUERA

Originally from Mexico, the vivacious Erika is a freelance make-up artist and beauty entrepreneur, with a Mayfair postcode. She has contributed to Vogue, Citizen K and Jalouse amongst other publications and is regularly seen backstage at shows at London and Paris Fashion week. My muse: “The Artist Paulina Otylie Surys for her originality and amazing sense of aesthetics.”

Stephanie Hirschmiller Editor stephanie@amusemagazine.co.uk Hicham Kasbi Art Director copy@amusemagazine.co.uk Polly Glass Features Writer polly@amusemagazine.co.uk Arabella Preston Beauty Editor arabella@amusemagazine.co.uk Fran Mullin Junior Fashion Editor fran@amusemagazine.co.uk Katie Tillyer Fashion Assistant Katie@amusemagazine.co.uk Lydia Slater lydia@amusemagazine.co.uk / Sue Ryan Travel Sasha Slater Editor At Large sasha@amusemagazine.co.uk Contributors: Beatrice Aidin, Sara Austin, Ian Brown, Erika de la Barquera, Dieter Brandenburg, Bethan Cole, Nick Cox, Nadia Foster, Sadie Frost, Claire Grech, Alastair Guy, Florence Knight, Fabrice Lachant, Lorelei Marfil, Anastasia Miari, Marc Millon, Daniel Nadel, Natalie Silverton, Chris Sims 0207 866 8102 Stephen Murphy Publisher stephen@amusemagazine.co.uk Christian Price Commercial Director christian@amusemagazine.co.uk Gemma Ridgwell Fashion Manager gemma@amusemagazine.co.uk Natalie Miller Advertising Executive natalie@amusemagazine.co.uk, Tanisha Sakhawat Advertising & Creative Solutions tanisha@amusemagazine.co.uk Advertising Consultant: Debra Davies 0207 866 8101 Printer BGP / Distribution: Emblem Group Colour Management: David Ladkin

NATALIE LIVINGSTONE

Natalie Livingstone is a freelance journalist who lives in swinging Notting Hill (pictured above with her Cavapoo pooch, Tolstoy). She began her prolific journalistic career at Condé Nast, following onto the Features Desk at the Daily Express, and has since written for American Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and The Times. My muse: “My ultimate muse is my mother.”

aMuse Magazine is published by aMuse Media, 71-75 Shelton Street, London WC2H 9JQ. Company number: 07189146. aMuse Media cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles and images. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters and emails. The material in aMuse Magazine is subject to copyright. All rights reserved. The paper in this magazine originates from timber that is sourced from sustainable forests, responsibly managed to strict environmental, social, and economic standards. The manufacturing mills have both FSC & PEFC certification, and also ISO9001 and ISO14001 accreditation. ABC application approved August 2012

When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it

STYLE THE

FILES

H&M does Margiela

H&M’s annual blockbuster designer collaboration is here at last, bringing minimalist chic from Parisian fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. Looking to be the most avant garde of the brand’s collaborations so far, Margiela’s deconstructed style has some serious fans in the fashion world, with its combination of luxe fabrics, artful draping and masculine lines. Take the morning off work and get your fi x for a fraction of the price. Drops 15 November, £7.99 - £199.99, hm.com

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

fashion

BRORA’S DESIGNER YARNS

Michael Van der Ham does ladylike with a twist like no other, and now he’s channelling his signature collage effect expertise into a capsule collection with luxe cashmere label Brora. Sealing the knitwear brand’s status as kings of the cool designer collaboration - last year it was Louise Gray - the line’s eye-catching yet subtle designs look set to be some of winter’s niftiest knits. From 31 October accessories from £60, knitwear from £200 (cardigan pictured £395), brora.co.uk

WHEN FASHION MET ART When a designer that

takes inspiration from solar flares teams up with an artist known as ‘the father of colour’, you can expect something spectacular. Joseph Albers’ work provides the backdrop to Atis Artemjevs’ colour block designs in the latter’s London boutique this autumn; worth checking it out to feast your soul not to mention your fashion habit. 143 Fulham Road, SW3 6SD, atisartemjevs.com

VINTAGE NY-LON

Designer vintage is big business these days - especially as it brings the comforting assurance that you’re unlikely to find anyone else wearing the same thing. And now there’s a new place to get your fix. A duo of enterprising graduates from Central St Martins and the Institute of Technology, New York, is opening a vintage pop-up, Elvira Vintage, in Soho and it’s packed with treasures from both sides of the pond. Elvira Vintage, from 1 November - 31 December, 3 New Quebec Street, W1H 7RE, elviravintage.com

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FASHION FOCUS December brings us one of the the biggest events

in the fashion calendar - apart from Fashion Week that is. We’re talking about The Clothes Show Live, that three day fashion and beauty extravaganza where Erin O’Connor and Agyness Deyn were first scouted. As usual, the schedule is jam-packed, with star turns aplenty from the likes of Henry Holland and Daisy Lowe. Take part in a modelling masterclass, watch the Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model catwalk show and then kick off your heels in the Wine Parlour - the perfect antidote to fashion fatigue. Book your tickets for the Birmingham show now. 7-11 December, NEC Birmingham, £27 for a standard ticket, £40 for platinum, clothesshowlive.com, 0800 358 0058

ARM PARTY

Clerkenwell boutique jewellers EC1 are celebrating their fifteenth birthday this month, with some musically inspired bracelets (£95) to mark the occasion. Comprising well-known song lyrics with a flash of neon woven into chains, we love the wittiness of ‘Staying Alive’. Cute on their own, but we’ll be layering ours up for a medley of arm candy. Oh and there’s a 15% birthday discount from 1 - 15 November. 41 Exmouth Market EC1R 4QL, econe.co.uk

FIT FOR A QUEEN Palladium is a light, hardwearing and

hypoallergenic metal. While this might all sound a bit sci-fi, it actually means it’s great for creating intricate jewellery that can carry much larger gemstones than its rivals - gold, silver and platinum. Vivienne Westwood’s Gainsborough collection is fashioned from said metal, features a necklace, earrings and one very regal tiara and has a campaign lensed by Juergen Teller that’s modelled, rather appropriately, by rock royalty Georgia May Jagger. Arriving late October, from £420, available at Selfridges selfridges.com and Vivienne Westwood boutiques, viviennewestwood.com

fashion news by KATIE TILLYER

WHISTLE FOR IT Cosy up in Markus Lupfer’s sweet

collection for Whistles (picture from Lupfer’s AW12 main line), which brings us slogan knits, silk pyjamas and fluffy scarves just in time for the cold weather. The range, which launches at the end of October, also features some nifty leather accessories including an iPad case and tote bag. Lupfer is known for his kitschy-cute designs, and with phrases like ‘Brrr’ and neon pink hearts as adornment, this collaboration is the perfect winter warmer. From late October, £55 - £125, whistles.co.uk

THE FRENCH ARE COMING

SPRING FEVER It may be cold outside but Canadian import

Call It Spring (from the people that brought us Aldo, FYI) is living up to its name and putting a spring in our step with a collection of affordable on-trend footwear. It opens its first UK flagship store this month on Oxford Street, with a collection that draws inspiration from the film Almost Famous think low heeled boots and moccasins for lounging around backstage, and vampy heels for those after parties. From November, Burundida boots (pictured) £60, 146148 Oxford Street, callitspring.com

SCANDI STYLE

(AGAIN)

FILIPPA K TAKES LIBERTY’S Nike. Tick. Kenzo. Tick. Now

it’s the turn of Filippa K with a new capsule line exclusively for Liberty. We’ve come to associate Filippa K with monochrome basics combined with artful tailoring, but pops of fuschia pink inject some zest into the functional Nordic aesthetic. From mid November, liberty.co.uk

Another touch of Gallic style, cult Parisian label and king of under-theradar chic Paule Ka opens another location in the heart of Mayfair this month. The rather lovely Mount street setting, and the wearable designs that nod to the Sixties (while retaining a contemporary edge), make this label definitely worth a (re)visit. Opens late October, Mount Street W1, pauleka.com

KLINGDOM OF COOL Uber-blogger Elin Kling will

be familiar to fans of street style websites. But for the uninitiated, she’s the epitome of Scandinavian cool - having made her name as an internet sensation with her blog, Style By Kling. Now she’s designed a new capsule collection for Marciano by Guess, which, with its crisp shirts, leather trousers and seriously slouchy knits, is the best thing to come out Scandinavia since The Killing. From November, guessbymarciano.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

SHOPPING

Larose black heels, £385, Zoe Lee (0207 729 3521)

Gold and black pumps, £465, Marni (marni.com)

Studded suede ankle boots, £725, Miu Miu (net-a-porter.com)

THAKOON AW12

Flame leather sawsole stilettos, £436, Camilla Skovgaard (my-wardrobe.com)

SHOW STOPPING SHOES

Enter a party with the right foot forward says Fran Mullin

Jewelled stiletto, £20, Matalan (matalan.co.uk)

Magdalena Black, £350, Kurt Geiger London (kurtgeiger.com)

Black pointed slingback shoes, £65, River Island (riverisland.com)

Miranoe black, £86.69, Perlato (rubbersole.co.uk)

Tri-colour cut-out shoes, £455, Balenciaga (matchesfashion.com)

Alisha snake print leather court shoe, £225, LKBennett (lkbennett.com)

Feathered shoes, £300, LD Tuttle (brownsfashion.com)

Graphic heels, £597, Jil Sander (luisaviaroma.com)

12 | AMUSE

Robot’s feet, £229.95, Heavy Machine (nelly.com)

Patent monkstrap heels, £760, Casadei (casadei.com)

Women’s black gable shoes, £750, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk)

Green courts, £59.99, Tamaris (tamaris.de)

Walzter, £472, Joanne Stoker (joannestoker.com)

Pyramid patent leather heels, £530, Alejandro Ingelmo (thecorner.com)

Junona heels, £35, Kate Kanzier (katekanzier.com)

Romelia heel, £75, Aldo (aldoshoes.com/uk)

Suede sandals, £960, Tabitha Simmons (shoescribe.com)

Astra Court, £129, NW3 by Hobbs (hobbs.co.uk)

Nora shoe in Snow Leopard, £198, House of Harlow 1960 (amazon.co.uk)

Orange ﬂoral printed courts, £160, Emma Cook (asos.com)

Aspen shoes, £430, Paul & Joe (020 7824 8844)

Women’s patterned stilettos, £613, Toga (ln-cc.com)

Women’s suede open toe mules, £500, Lucas Nascimento X Charkviani (ln-cc.com) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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19/09/12 18.14

‘It would be exciting to see a politician wearing a little curious construction of cosmic colour’

FRED BUTLER AW12

The fast fashion fix:

I wake up and feel a colour... which I grab out of my spectrum-ordered wardrobe. My personal style is about enhancing the enjoyment of everyday life. Memories are always defined by what colour I had on that day. I accessorize with a quirky fun addition, as a tactile element to turn an outfit into a point of intrigue and to open up dialogue with strangers. Inspiration begins with an abstract feeling... which then develops, bringing together every element from the hair and nails, to shoes, sound and music. I have a certain visual that creeps into my mind’s eye, then it’s a process of extracting that intangible atmosphere into physical items. My designs are for anyone, anywhere, anytime... A definite muse for my last collection was Missy Elliott so I would love to see her wearing something of mine. But looking into the future I think it would be exciting to see a politician, or someone of social significance, wearing a little curious construction of cosmic colour, maybe in place of a classic button hole or corsage.

FRED BUTLER

Known for her elaborate, colourful accessories, the east London based designer has just created a limited edition Swatch watch, and recently collaborated with mentor Diane Pernet to customise the new Vauxhall ADAM. Here, she tells us what makes her tick For the Vauxhall project I started off my design process... with paper, creating shapes around a mannequin. To accessorize a car chassis instead of a human form I made a miniature cardboard maquette of the vehicle. Being able to show Diane the finished work was really amazing... She came over from Paris to visit my studio to see the work in progress. I hate emailing so it was perfect to sit down with her in person, show her my development work and have her input at that crucial stage. It was a lovely final chapter to the journey. I’d love to experiment with some different lighting and interiors... Lots of my accessories are made of iridescent coloured plastic gels which I sometimes think would work well lit up as a sculpture. My

house is decorated with various archive pieces that I hang up and clutter surfaces with. I would also like to pimp up my poor old mountain bike which I’ve had for 20 years! It desperately needs some serious TLC... Showing at London Fashion Week was my childhood dream... and I feel very privileged to have been able to do so. I’ve also made sacrifices, such as missing out on important moments with my best friends and family because I’ve been sat at my desk meeting deadlines in place of meeting up with them.

Fred Butler Swatch, £178, launching at the beginning of November, limited edition run of 777 units, youtube.com/user/Vauxhall, fredbutlerstyle.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Devendra & Ana have been a couple for 2 years

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trends

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Winter blooms are a statement of hardwearing femininity this frosty season says Fran Mullin

MARC BY MARC JACOBS AW12

Not such a delicate flower 15

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1. Violet flower umbrella, £145, Aspinal (aspinaloflondon.com) 2. Printed skirt, £1,129, Yves Saint Laurent (farfetch.com) 3. Pansy clutch, £32, Accesorize (accessorize.com) 4. Floral trousers, £109, Ted Baker (tedbaker.com) 5. Floral print skirt, £16, Next (next.co.uk) 6. floral platform pumps, £22.75, Forever 21 (forever21.com) 7. Orangeade floral t-shirt, £249, Crumpet (crumpetengland.com) 8. Floral brocade trousers, £625, Osman (matchesfashion.com) 9. Floral clutch, £320, Paul & Joe (020 7824 8844) 10. Red herring floral shirt, £32, Debenhams (debenhams.com) 11. Woodland wonders, £45, AbiLu Creations (abilucreations.com) 12. Leslie le jardin pump camvas shoe, £62, American Apparel (americanapparel.net) 13. Onyx floral button back top, £250, Marc by Marc Jacobs (my-wardrobe.com) 14. tapestry shoes, £28, office (office.co.uk) 15. Floral dress, £299, Hobbs Invitation (hobbs.co.uk) 16. nightshade earrings, £33, Tatty Devine (tattydevine.com) 17. Floral dress, £80, People Tree (peopletree.co.uk) 18. Skyler kasmin-bloom dress, £1,260, Erdem (matchesfashion.com)

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

trends

SACAI AW12

Monday to Sunday Addams 1

Take inspiration from our favourite and frighteningly fashion forward, family 16

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1. Round-frame acetate sunglasses, £215, Prada (net-a-porter.com) 2. Top with embroidered swiss dot flowers, £39.99, Zara (zara.com) 3. Black beaded bracelet, £200, CH Carolina Herrera (020 3441 0965) 4. Leather trousers, £669, Marc Cain (marccain.co.uk) 5. Ruffle lace bolero, £44.99, Mango (mango.com) 6. PVC skirt, £35, River Island (riverisland.com) 7. Medallion tweed and leather dress, £2,310, Marc Jacobs (matchesfashion.com) 8. Cut-out cuff, £25, Cos (cosstores.com) 9. Black silk organza anastasia dress, £425, Marc by Marc Jacobs (stylebop.com) 10. Crystal-embellsihed velvet and leather knee boots, £1,325, Versace (net-a-porter.com) 11. Black lace shirt dress, £335, ROSS X BUTE (rossandbute.com) 12. Infiniment truffe noir bag, £380, Barbara Rihl for Pierre Herme (pierreherme.com) 13. Piano dress, £475, Peridot London (peridotlondon. co.uk) 14. Pointed court shoe with straps, £59.99, Zara (zara.com) 15. Templeton dress, £995, Temperley (cseeboutique.com) 16. Lace dress, £69.99, Zara (zara.com) 17. Opulent teardrop earrings, £4.90, Forever 21 (forever21.com) 18. Pearly top with embellishment, £65, ASOS (asos.com) 19. stag beetle earrings, £15, Cherryloco (cherryloco.folksy.com)

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trends

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Lets go dott y

Make a point with layer upon layer of polka-prints

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1. Thyra case, £12, Monki (monki.com) 2. Black Polka dot scarf, £49, Aspinal (aspinaloﬂondon.com) 3. Spotted gloves, £85, Marc Cain 4. Justine silk satin scarf, £125, LKBennett (lkbennett.com) 5. Border spot blouse, £185, Farhi by Nicole Farhi (nicolefarhi.com) 6. Polka-dot shirt, £34.99, Mango (mango.com) 7. Printed silk-twill skirt, £275, Collette by Collette Dinnigan (net-a-porter.com) 8. Polka dot silk and wool jacket, £395, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel (my-wardrobe.com) 9. Iris Dress, £161, Ronen Chen (ronenchenstoreuk.com) 10. Silver mickey mouse ring, £160, Dog State (goodhoodstore.com) 11. Marlin boots, £460, Acne (acnestudios.com) 12. Polka dot skirt, £35, Next (next.co.uk) 13. Blush:green draped silk dress, £545, Piazza Sempione (stylebop.com) 14. Green suede laptop case, £110, Tats & Tempest (tatsandtempest.com) 15. Blush organza dress, £682, Jil Sander Navy (stylebop.com) 16. Polka dot shoes, £42, Dorothy Perkins (dorothyperkins.com) 17. Spot top, £55, Laura Ashley (lauraashley.com) 18. Women’s waterbleed ink polka print cardigan, £263, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk) 19. Polka dot silk wool scarf, £135, Gant Rugger (gant.co.uk) 20. Spotted dress, £22, Izabel London (izabellondon.com)

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J.W. ANDERSON AW12 BY RORY VAN MILLINGEN

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GET THE VELVET TOUCH Sumptuously Rich Matte Colour. Sublime Comfort. The New Lipstick Collection

CREATED BY KATE MOSS

KATE MOSS WEARS SHADE 107 AVAILABLE IN 5 SHADES

trends

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MCQ AW12

Soldiering on

Arm yourself for style combat with a military inspired uniform

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1. Shearling jacket, £45, F&F Limited Edition (tesco.com) 2. Waisted wide black belt, £123, DKNY (my-wardrobe.com) 3. Chocolate cashmere cable knit mock neck pullover, £602, Ralph Lauren Black (stylebop.com) 4. Wool gilet, £70, Topshop, (topshop.com) 5. Olive Little America Backpack, £85, Herschel At Urban Outfitters Rucksack (urbanoutfitters.co.uk) 6. Valanga skirt, £348, Sportmax (matchesfashion.com) 7. Leather and sheepskin coat, £1,799, Marc Cain (marc-cain.com) 8. Military boots, £150, Rockport (south molton street) 9. Knit-sleeve wool coat, £665, Sophie Hulme (matchesfashion.com) 10. Wool and cashmere-blend trench coat, £1,095, Burberry London (net-a-porter.com) 11. Woven rope belt, £65, Farhi by Nicole Farhi (nicolefarhi.com) 12. Ankle height brogue, £119, Bertie (bertieshoes.com) 13. Mape Petite Forest green jacket, £850, Acne (shop.acnestudios.com) 14. Khaki watch, £239, Thomas Sabo (thomassabo.com) 15. Trixi Scober Coat, £995, Claudia Sebire (claudiasebire.com) 16. Elderberry wool fingerless gloves, £25, Really Wild (reallywildclothing.co.uk)

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‘I thought I was a boy for a very long time. I’m the middle one of two really beautiful sisters who people always fawned over and they never looked at me’

24 | AMUSE

My top spot

THE WELL-

DRESSED CHEF

Meet Gizzi Erskine, the only chef with a Pierre Cardin ribbon dress and her own line of eye make-up in the pipeline, says Stephanie Hirschmiller Photography: Dieter Brandenburg

“T PHOTOGRAPHS BY DIETER BRANDENBURG; HAIR AND MAKE UP BY ERIKA DE LA BARQUERA

he first question everyone asks me is always ‘what eyeliner do you use and how do you do your hair?’” So says Gizzi Erskine, 32, as we hole up in La Bodega Negra after our shoot. For, while food is undoubtedly her primary passion, the TV chef is also something of a style icon, encouraged from an early age by her bohemian mother – a former actress and model with a penchant for Eighties shoulder pads: “mum was totally Joan Collins from Dynasty!” Gizzi (real name Griselda) and her two sisters grew up across Scotland, London and Asia (her mother later worked as a PA in the Far East) peeling potatoes and whisking batters for Sunday lunch. Her photographer father played forties and fifties jazz and her mother was into Motown. “We used to have to do the cleaning as kids dancing to The Supremes,” she remembers, “that was the way mum got us kids to do it, with the music cranked up and one with a bottle of Pledge, one with the duster and the other with the hoover.” As a child, she was a tomboy and lived in brown cords, trainers and a Spiderman top: “I thought I was a boy for a very long time. I’m the middle one of two really beautiful sisters who people always fawned over and they never looked at me.” However, at the age of nine she had an epiphany when she wore her first girly outfit – a fitted vest with a crocodile clip across the back and a polka-dot skirt. “Everyone said ‘oh my god you’re actually really pretty!’ And that was when I realised this is what clothes can do.” These days, her style is derived from her love of music and influences range from Siouxsie Sioux to Jean Shrimpton

but her overall favourite is sixties model Anna Karina - “she’s like if Audrey Hepburn and Kate Moss had a baby, I absolutely adore her.” And while she’s quick to attest that she’s not a Mod herself, she does get really excited about Mod fashion. “It was when pop art and fashion joined,” she explains, “I love the lines. It still feels young but there’s an elegance about it.” Today she’s wearing an original Pierre Cardin ‘ribbon’ dress from William Blanks Blaney’s William Vintage in Marylebone. “I fell head-over-heels in love with it but I tried to get it on and my bottom wasn’t working. But that’s the great thing about vintage; you can have things altered. Will has a great seamstress and now it fits like a glove.” Gizzi loves world food and small plates - hence Mexican café La Bodegra Negra on Soho’s Moor Street being our shoot venue of choice. Although she’s an east London girl, she reckons that Soho is “killing it at the moment”. Her first taste of the culinary limelight was a cookery demo at the Good Food Show in between Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver. “I had the worst time,” she recalls, “I kept cutting and burning myself. I was so terrified but I think I might have been quite amusing because at the end an agent came up and asked to sign me.” However, although she may have hit the big time in 2007 with Channel 4’s Cook Yourself Thin, it hasn’t always been thus. A body piercer between the ages of 16 and 24, she decided to retrain as a chef following work experience with old friend, Will Ricker, and Ian Pengelley of Camden’s Gilgamesh. There followed an internship at Good Food magazine and an early foray into pop-up restaurants - “it was a bit disastrous,” she recalls, “it was in the derelict basement of an art gallery on Brick Lane.” Recently, she returned to pop-up eateries with an eminently more successful incarnation called K Town, (named after New York’s Korea Town foodie destination) in Concrete, the basement space beneath Shoreditch’s Pizza East – think pork bun canapés and Izakaya sashimi served at long tables with ping pong and karaoke, all hosted by a Korean drag queen! But back to those trademark winged eyes. Gizzi’s just been approached by a cosmetics company to create her own range of liner next year. Martha Stewart eat your heart out. Gizzi has collaborated with fellow chef Joe Gray to create a special three course menu, in aid of The Prince’s Trust, now in Zizzi restaurants nationwide. Read more about her work with Zizzi and The Prince’s Trust at Zizzi.co.uk/freshtalentgizzi AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

ALL THAT GLITTERS It’s time to shine in this season’s array of beading, sequins and general razzle dazzle Styling by Katie Tillyer Photography by Helen Kirkbright

Model Emily at Models 1 Make-up by Ian Brown using NARS Cosmetics Hair by Nadia at Foster London 26 | AMUSE

1 JACKET, £240

and TROUSERS, £125, Filippa K (liberty.co.uk) DRESS, (worn as top), £170, Replay (replay.it) SHOES, £199, Hobbs (hobbs.co.uk)

2 NECKLACE, £45, Religion (religionclothing. co.uk) TOP, £45, COS (cosstores.com) SKIRT, £450, Zoë Jordan (zoe-jordan.com) SHOES, £129 Hobbs (as before)

3 DRESS, £175,

French Connection (frenchconnection. com) SHOES, £125, COS (as before) TIGHTS, £4.95, Pamela Mann (mytights.com)

4 BRALET, £34.99, H&M (hm. com) VEST, £7.90, Uniqlo (uniqlo.com) TROUSERS, £88, Pilcro at Anthropologie (anthropologie.com) SHOES, Hobbs (as before)

5 DRESS, £169, NW3 by Hobbs (as before) SHOES, £135, Patrick Ervell for Aldo Rise (aldoshoes.com) RING, £238, Delphine Charlotte Parmentier (dcp-corp.com)

6 JUMPER, £99.99 H&M (as before) TROUSERS, £29.90, Uniqlo (as before) SHOES, £225, Dr Martens (drmartens.com)

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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OUR HEROINE! All superheroes need a helping hand from time to time. Where would Batman be without his trusty Batmobile? In a sorry heap outside the Batcave one would imagine. Now, trust the masterminds of all things good and pretty at McQueen to concoct the female equivalent of said contraption. This sleek street machine is not only a feat of pure visual joy but an engineering masterpiece. With state-of-the-art opening mechanisms and an expandable structure, it can house all of your fashioncrime fighting must-have items. Batcomputer? Check. Batphone? Check. Battering ram. Step too far. The perfect assassin-proof accessory (we’re sooo over the cape and mask look - how puerile). All hail the heroine handbag. Fran Mullin Large Laser Cut Pony Skin bag, £2,240, alexandermcqueen.com

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Family values

— SADIE FROST —

t’s hard to know how to deal with certain issues between mother and daughter, especially when your daughter is growing up so fast. There are books to read on the subject and you have your family and friends to confer with. But at the end of the day, when it comes to your own child, it’s only you who’s got the instinctive sensibilities. There are moments that are smooth, then moments that are jagged, where you feel your relationship is entering new territory and you’re left not having a clue! I was experiencing one of these moments the other day when, on breakfast TV, I saw an interview with the actress Tamsin Greig about the play Jumpy, which she is starring in at The Duke of York’s Theatre. A lot of the plot centres around a mother and daughter relationship. The mother is hitting a midlife crisis and the inevitable looming of her menopause (a word I am very uncomfortable with) and the daughter is a sprightly, extrovert teenager with a lot to say and who spends too much time on her Blackberry! Of course this resonated hugely with me and certain bits hit home with Iris too. We had seen the play a few nights before. We laughed till our sides ached. But from time to time, we looked at each other with raised eyebrows, a s we bot h k new it wa s paralleling our own lives. It was a healthy and healing evening for us both as the play spelt out the other’s point of view and what it might be like to stand in the other’s shoes. It did make me feel a little uncomfortable, though, as I realised my destiny: watching my beautiful Iris’ life blossom while I get closer and closer to hitting 50. Not that I am jealous of her in any way; I am excited but it’s hard not to think that I have experienced most of the best bits of my life. Or at least lived a lot of the more defining moments. I mentioned my state of mind to a couple of friends who poo pooed my concerns and said, “you’re crazy Sadie – you’ve got another 45 years of fun and happiness ahead of you. You’re in the prime of your life.” So I snapped out of it. “Correct,” I thought, “my life is good, I am fit and healthy and have the best friends and family in the world.”

PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER SIMS; ASSISTANT NICK THOMPSON

‘We laughed till our sides ached. But from time to time, we looked at each other with raised eyebrows, as we both knew it was paralleling our own lives’

— IRIS LAW —

t school all the girls are obsessed with the show Chicago. It’s mainly the songs we love and we’re all hinting to our teacher to use them for the next school play (fingers crossed!). But when mum heard about a play called Jumpy on the news she decided to get us tickets. I hadn’t heard of it, but was glad to know I was going to have a night out with my mama. We didn’t go to the premiere or anything; we just went on a regular evening as tickets are so hard to get (because it’s so great). But it was still amazing. When we got off the tube, the rain was pouring down and we were late - so, a normal night out for us. We ran to the theatre and as we pushed through the crowds outside, just looking at the posters made me excited! The stage was simple but perfect for the production, because it meant the team could work around it and make changes to the set easily. The play itself was fantastic; personally, I preferred the scenes involving the teenagers, but I think the adults preferred those with the mother. My favourite part was when the mother’s friend, who thought she was younger than she was, did a very funny dance at completely the wrong moment. Saying that, it was hard to decide the best bit, as tonnes of parts left me crying with laughter! The week after we watched Jumpy, everything I heard, saw or said reminded me of it. Anytime me and my mum rowed about something, we would end up looking at each other and bursting into laughter, remembering the play. The girl and mother were quite a bit older than us, though, so we don’t really have that much in common with them. Hopefully we never will, as they were ALWAYS fighting...

‘I preferred the scenes involving the teenagers, but I think the adults preferred those with the mother’ AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Reviews aMUSE

...ART... FILM... MUSIC... BOOKS... SHOWS... Compiled by POLLY GLASS

Klimt covered

In celebration of his 150th anniversary, get your hands on this sumptuous monograph, in which the opinion-dividing, modern-yet-old-fashioned painter extraordinaire is evocatively presented. Encompassing his entire back catalogue, as well as all known letter correspondence and a host of essays about the man, it’s a HUGE beautiful book (complete with shiny embossed gold cover, and new, exclusive photography of the amazing Stoclet Frieze, commissioned for the Palais Stoclet, Brussels), to get your teeth into - and pretty pictures and pull-outs to swoon over. Gustav Klimt: The Complete Paintings, out now, £135, TASCHEN, taschen.com

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

AMUSE ART /

art

fashion / FILM

/ RESTAUR A NTS / BOOKS /

DIGITAL FLOWERS

Tread lightly, oh technocynic, before condemning digitally-lead artworks. As the pioneering Flowers Gallery looks set to prove with this multi-artist exhibition, the artistic possibilities afforded by digital post production are enormous. The resulting works aren’t bad either. These abstract pieces, tapping into various aspects of contemporary culture, offer a fantastic reason to visit this cool London gallery. BRUSH IT IN, Flowers Gallery, 82 Kingsland Road, 26 October - 24 November, flowersgallery.com

CURIOSER AND CURIOSER

The world through Phoebe Dickinson’s eye is an intriguing one. Check out her five-foot mahogany ‘cabinets of curiosity’ (packed with etchings, diary entries and personal trinkets) alongside poetic, expressive paintings of nudes, landscapes and far-off places from her travels. Eclectic yet soothing and absorbing, her work has already been snapped up by Elton John. A young artist to watch out for. PHOEBE DICKINSON - My Eye, Blanchard Antiques & Design, 26 - 30 November 2012, London SW6 2AN, phoebedickinson.com

ART THROUGH A LENS

THE ART OF DRIVING

BACK TO SCHOOL The National Gallery is generally more known for its Old Masters etc, but this, the gallery’s first ever major photography exhibition looks to reflect the ways in which photographers (from the mid 19th century through to the present day) have been influenced by fine art traditions. How? By exhibiting their photographs alongside the works that inspired them. A rich, layered exploration of the history of photography. SEDUCED BY ART: Photography Past & Present, National Gallery, 31 October - 20 January 2013, nationalgallery.org.uk 34 | AMUSE

With alumni including the likes of Zandra Rhodes, Philip Treacy and Christopher Bailey, the Royal College of Art has been a hotbed of artistic fashion output for some years now. And as the college reaches its 175th birthday, what better a way to celebrate than with a cracking exhibition of its students’ triumphs past and present - from the dress designed for Radley by RCA graduate Ossie Clark in the 1960s, to Bailey’s SS13 Burberry beauties. Lush. THE PERFECT PLACE TO GROW: 175 Years of the Royal College of Art, Royal College of Art, Kensington Gore, London SW7 2EU, 16 November 2012 – 3 January 2013, rca.ac.uk

(TOP LEFT) © ANNE DE VRIES, CAVE2CAVE 2010, COURTESY OF FLOWERS GALLERY LONDON. (BOTTOM LEFT) © KEEP THEM SWEET, MAISIE BROADHEAD 2010

If you’re normally bored to tears by automobiles, this might well change your mind. World-revered ‘Godfather of British Pop Art’ Sir Peter Blake has created a one-off funky Vauxhall ADAM - the first car offering over a million design possibilities, both inside and out, for this year’s Paris Motorshow. Like the idea of the ADAM’s fountain of car-creativity? It arrives in the UK in early 2013. vauxhall.co.uk

film TRUE LOVE

THE (TWILIGHT) SAGA CONTINUES If R.Patz and Kristen Stewart’s off screen dramatics giving hope to teenage girls everywhere - attracted your attention, you’ll at least be curious about this final instalment in the silly-but-sexy vampire series. Edward does a lot of intent gazing, Bella tosses her shiny hair, and their half vampire-half human daughter scares people. Merriment ensues. If you didn’t like Twilight before, chances are you still won’t, but its die-hard fans will have the ride of their lives. THE TWILIGHT SAGA: Breaking Dawn, Part 2, out 16 November, Entertainment One

A deserving winner of this year’s Palme d’Or at Cannes, Michael Haneke’s thought-provoking film Amour depicts an elderly married couple, and the heartbreaking effects of dementia on their happy life. In his characteristically natural manner, Haneke has created an intelligent, moving but totally non-drippy insight into a difficult issue. Desperately sad but quietly brilliant - one of the most poignant films you’ll see in quite a while. AMOUR, out 16 November, Artificial Eye

music MS JACKSON It’s about the cut. I need clothes Widespread radio play, a collaboration with Snoop Dogg and interest from Ed Sheeran’s producer, the hard-rocker-turned-pop-diva Stacey, 43, has got it all going on.

S C IE N T OL OG Y RMoveE VoverISTomI Tn’EKatie, D a new

gripping insight into the eerie world of Scientology (the brainchild of a sci-fi writer, Ron Hubbard) is about to hit us. Joaquin Phoenix is Freddie Quell - a messed-up US Navy reject, lured into the religion by ‘The Master’ (a serious man called Lancaster Dodd, played by Philip 36 | AMUSE

Seymour Hoffman) and aided by Lancaster’s wife Mary Sue (Amy Adams). A strange world, captured convincingly by director Paul Thomas Anderson. THE MASTER, out 2 November, Entertainment Film Distributors

My new record... It’s pop-dominated, quite empowering, hopefully inspiring. But I also love things like Mötley Crüe, Guns n’ Roses, and I listened to a lot of Motown when I was very young - so those influences feed in too I think. To a dream dinner party I’d invite... Diana Ross, Donna Summer and Tommy Lee Jones. It would be an eclectic party! Fashion-wise, it’s not about the brands...

TIP-TOP TRIP-POP

that fit all three areas of my life - as a mum, doing press things and performing. But for designer gear I do love Christian Blanken and from the high street, I love H&M and Zara. In my spare time... I’m a gymaholic. And I LOVE The X-Factor - it makes time go by so much quicker on the elyptical machine. I know not everyone in the UK likes it, but it’s my definite guilty pleasure. Last words? I’m having a lot of fun right now. But it hasn’t always been easy; so I would always say to anyone, never give up on your dreams. You’re never too old to get where you want to be. STACEY JACKSON’S ‘I Am A Woman’ is out now

As unusual as their name would suggest, but much more accessible, Django Django have produced one of the best, most eclectic albums of the year. Fresh from Mercury Music Prize nomination, the Dalston avant-indie pop act now present the new release from their eponymous debut. ‘Life’s A Beach’ is instantly engaging, nicely trippy and quirky in the best possible way! DJANGO DJANGO, Life’s A Beach, out 31 October

1 year part-time or 3 months full-time No experience necessary Fantastic career prospects For all enquiries please call London 020 7426 9696 or Manchester 0161 237 3063

MAYBE YOU SHOULD CONSIDER A CAREER IN GRAPHIC DESIGN! Do you spend your time at work daydreaming, doodling or trying to push the design capabilities of Microsoft Office? Do you realise that you could be earning a living doing something you love every day?

shillingtoncollege.co.uk facebook/shillington.fb twitter.com/shillington_

Shillington College has a Graphic Design Course for people just like you. Starting with no experience you can study for 1 year part-time (2 evenings a week) or 3 months full-time. You will graduate with the studio skills and outstanding portfolio you’ll need to land your first job as a graphic designer. You could be creating ads like this one minute and a billboard for Fashion Week the next.

LONDON • MANCHESTER • NEW YORK SYDNEY • MELBOURNE • BRISBANE

Why wait? Enrol now for September 2012.

shows 21ST CENTURY CHEKHOV

Wimbledon might be better known for its summer tennis jollity, but come November it turns into a worldclass classical music hotspot, with the arrival of the International Wimbledon Music Festival. Blending quartets, trios, soloists and dramatic elements with music from Purcell to Rossini, Mozart to Messiaen (across various venues both in the area and some further afield), it’s sure to hit all the right notes. INTERNATIONAL WIMBLEDON MUSIC FESTIVAL, 10 - 25 November, wimbledonmusicfestival.co.uk

ALL THAT

JAZZ

Spread across London venues great and grand, small and smokin’, this year’s London Jazz Festival looks set to deliver most excellently. Macy Gray, Melody Gardot and Esperanza Spalding lead the way, along with scores of ridiculously talented musical types that you may not have heard of already but doubtless will. And very soon. LONDON JAZZ FESTIVAL, 9 - 12 November, londonjazzfestival.org.uk

GET GOODWOOD

Royal weddings and golden jubilees have had us harking back to a simpler time of street parties and vintage cars - not to mention the fashion that went with them. So you’d better get your skates on and get booking for Goodwood Revival 2013 when the tickets go on sale in November. Last year’s three day festival was a retro delight of kiss curls, flying displays and races so make sure you don’t miss out on next year’s extravaganza. goodwood.co.uk 38 | AMUSE

TALENT SHOW We laughed like loonies at her

daring Comedy Central show Dirty Sexy Funny, and now Olivia Lee is back on our screens presenting Opening Act - hunting down new musical stars to support the likes of Lady Gaga. She’s also working on feature film and sitcom scripts as we speak. Tell us about Opening Act... It’s Nigel Lythgoe’s new talent show, where we find the next music stars of the future using the internet and get them to open for big musical acts like Lady Gaga and LMFAO. I started my career presenting for T4, so it was easy to slip back into that kind of role, although it was a challenge not to keep cracking jokes, as I’ve mainly been doing comedy shows for the last four years. A night out at a London show, and it’s our round; what are you drinking? I am big fan of an amaretto on the rocks. It is a granny drink I know, but I do like being a bit vintage/naff. How did you get into comedy? Oh my god, if you met my family you would see why I went into comedy, nuff said. How would you sum up your personal style? My style is hobo, boho chic. A kind of slutty fashionista. What’s on your current fashion wishlist? I’m loving all of the new Rebecca Taylor collection, her clothes are delicious. What’s the best thing about being a comedienne? Making people laugh and getting paid to behave badly. And the worst? Failing to make people laugh and not being paid to behave badly. Most bizarre experience in your career to date? All and everything I do in my TV show amazes me, and I find myself often saying, ‘what’s wrong with you?’ What else is important to you in life, besides your work? My family, and food, and occasionally a boyfriend – when I find a nice one. Next up? A new sitcom! OPENING ACT, Monday 5 November at 9pm, on E! Entertainment Television

(TOP LEFT) XUEFEI YANG, PHOTO BY NEIL MUIR; ZUILL BAILEY, PHOTO BY LISA-MARIE MAZZUCCO, (CENTRE) ESPERANZA SPALDING PHOTO BY CARLOS PERICAS, COURTESY OF MONTUNO.

WAGNER OF WIMBLEDON

If you thought Chekhov’s classic Uncle Vanya could only be hot samovars, lace tablecloths and rural turn-of-the-century domesticity, think again. Stripping away the aesthetics of the old country house, and the sense of home and history, director Rimas Tuminas has created an adaptation dominated by myriad emotions, passions and shattered dreams. Winner of ‘Best Production’ at Russia’s Golden Mask Awards (the Russian Emmys, essentially), it promises to be a unique theatrical treat for London audiences. UNCLE VANYA, Noel Coward Theatre, 5 - 10 November, noel-coward. london-theatreguide.org.uk

ofenstein

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19.09.12 16:40

books THE ATLAS ADAPTED

SEXY STUFF

AKRIS FW12-13

Oh so pretty - not to mention incredibly sexy - La Perla undies are among the most desirable out there, as this coffee table beauty reveals in suitable style. Exquisite photography is presented alongside text exploring the changing perceptions of lingerie, making for a ravishing lesson in this most intimate area of fashion. LA PERLA: Lingerie & Desire, Isabella Cardinali, £52.50, Rizzoli

DESPERATELY SEEKING SUSIE

We caught up with Susie Boyt, 43, prior to the release of her new novel The Small Hours. The daughter of Lucien Freud (with his Slade student lover Suzy Boyt), didn’t quite get the painting gene but made up for it with a knack for the written word... The Small Hours is a novel about a brilliant, damaged woman... ...who opens a school to try to give herself the perfect childhood she never had. It is a story filled with the very best and worst of how we treat each other. It is also a commentary on the madness that passes for parenting in affluent London circles. I wrote a lot of poetry when I was nine... My poems were all about terrible disasters being narrowly averted, such as someone being saved from a house that was burning down. My teachers made a fuss of me and I liked the sense of being known for doing something well. I was always interested in everything as a child... Particularly in finding explanations for confusing things. I would sometimes count the number of seconds it took for a smile to fade from an adult’s face, and wonder if the smile was really meant. I love everything about Old Hollywood... ...from the courage of chorus girls living on their nerves to the little elastic clips performers used to give themselves instant face lifts. In my attic I have some hats and jewellery, a dress and an address 40 | AMUSE

book that used to belong to Judy Garland. In Regent’s Park, I like the air being thick with swear words on Sundays... ...as you walk past the football games! It is so international I once counted 16 languages in the playground. My smallest daughter loves the weapons in the Wallace collection so we go there quite a bit and say Hello to the Laughing Cavalier. My favourite Street in London is Charles Street in Mayfair... I like the idea of retiring there when I am very old and rich, and never leaving my chair, wearing navy silk jersey and a lot of hideous jewelry and being visited by teenage relations who I’ll ply with buns and shower with cash so they keep coming back. What’s the best thing about being a writer? Ever the schoolgirl, it means I can make a career out of doing homework. Also, not having to wear tights is great. The worst thing is it can be lonely. THE SMALL HOURS by Susie Boyt is out 1 November, Virago

The action-packed adventure story of the Man Booker prize shortlisted Cloud Atlas is to be realised in a starstudded film (led by Tom Hanks and Halle Berry, due for release in February 2013). For anyone who missed the book when it first appeared, now is the perfect time to get up to speed - it’s a compelling, spectacular piece of literature. CLOUD ATLAS, The Official Tie-In edition (paperback), David Mitchell, out 22 November, £7.99, Sceptre

CONQUERING YOUR CAREER It doesn’t take a particularly insightful critic to point out that life in today’s job market is one colossal headache. ‘Send out more CVs!’ one source cries; ‘Hide under a rock until it all blows over!’ bellows another; ‘GIVE UP!’ weeps one more. Oh for a comprehensive, easy-toperuse guide that actually told you practical things - in clear, digestible chunks! Enter FT journalist, Rhymer Rigdy, with this fabulously helpful, sharply written tome. The optimum advice source for all your workplace worries. THE CAREERIST - Over 100 Ways To Get Ahead at Work, Rhymer Rigby, £14.99, Kogan Page

A BAD ROMANCE? He’s a risk-taking war photographer (opens the novel leaping out of a plane, in an adrenalinfuelled episode), she’s...well, she’s Ingrid Bergman. And she’s proper famous. Yet the two unite for a passionate love affair (hidden from Ingrid’s controlling husband, *gasp!*) portrayed sensitively and poetically by Chris Greehalgh, who wrote the screenplay for Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky. A seductive tale. SEDUCING INGRID BERGMAN, Chris Greenhalgh, £7.99, Penguin

BE AT THE HEART OF BRITISH FASHION Clothes Show Live is everything you love about fashion. The UK’s top designers. The country’s hottest trends. And the nation’s biggest catwalk show. This is British fashion at its best. Show your love. Be at the heart. Book your tickets now at: www.clothesshowlive.com

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“O THE LADY

SINGS THE

BLUES

h I wish I was a punk rocker with flowers in my haiiiirrr!” - ah, those sentiments of sugar-coated kook you’ll no doubt recall from when they first got stuck in your head in 2006. You could have expected many things to become of Scottish overnight folkpop sensation Sandi Thom; she might have grown ever sweeter until the syrup dripped off her, joined a hippy cult, or simply faded into oblivion. Less predictably, she’s honed her serious rocker prowess and made a fantastic blues-rock record, Flesh & Blood - with collaborators from the Led Zeppelin and Black Crowes camps among others. It’s an overwhelmingly male-dominated genre, but that doesn’t intimidate the 30-year-old one bit: “I love the fact that I play the harmonica and electric guitar and that it’s so different for a woman to do that. The only doubts might be that my hands are tiny and I can’t span across four bars!” In the style stakes, since moving stateside (with guitar hero boyfriend Joe Bonamassa), it’s been goodbye Topshop and H&M, hello BB, Forever 21 and flea markets - where this treacle-maned, LBD and suede boots-loving girl jazzes up her look with AmericanIndian turquoise jewellery (a nod to album collaborator, Buffy Sainte Marie). With style icons like Suzi Quatro in mind, however, black catsuits are calling her name: “I’m going to have a whole big wardrobe that’s just going to have catsuits,” she declares. Suitably bold choices to match that big voice she cultivated playing covers back in Scotland as a 14-year-old, sneaking out to play gigs and drink cider at weekends. After becoming the youngest student to attend LIPA (Paul McCartney’s performing arts school), she moved to London where Soho’s Floridita became a favourite haunt. But if she’s homesick for anything, it’s the retro side of British culture: “I miss pubs - that tradition of sitting round the fire and bringing out the fiddles, lock-ins and drinking whisky.” But while her Malibu home may still be packed out with guitars, party tipple of choice has changed somewhat - tequila shots and margheritas to be precise, “then it’s good tunes, good friends, a couple of guitars and a fire going on the beach.” Sandi plays the 02 Islington Academy on 1 November. Her new record ‘Flesh And Blood’ is out now on Guardian Angels Records, sandithom.com

From folk-pop to blues-rock, from Tooting lock-ins to Malibu beach parties, it’s a been a whirlwind of change for Sandi Thom. She talks tequila, musical muscle and black catsuits with Polly Glass AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

SHORTS, £292, SHIRT, £315, both Cacharel (browns.com) TOP, £150, Ashish (ashish.co.uk) SHOES, £80, Peter Jensen (peterjensen.co.uk)

HELLO DAHHLING!

She’s shared laughs with Benedict Cumberbatch, caroused with Rebecca Hall and swooned over Tom Stoppard. What’s next for Anna Skellern? Words: Polly Glass Photography: Daniel Nadel Styling: Fran Mullin 44 | AMUSE

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legant grandeur, elaborate gesticulating and a voice like velvety dark chocolate - Parade’s End lovely, Lady Bobby Pelham has arrived. Anna Skellern is a character actress through and through, happiest doing one of the fabulously posh impressions from her extensive repertoire. “‘Dahhling – what does one do here?’” Skellern breaths languidly in the manner of Lady Bobby, holding a very long (mimed) cigarette. Giggling, now in her more regular Aussie-tinged (but still notably deep) tone, the 27-year-old comes back down to earth. Anna, aMUSE discovers, is a something of a comedy geek (albeit a pretty chic one) and our chat swiftly turns to Blackadder, Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie: “I just can’t go past Fry and Laurie, I love them. And Brass Eye too, I think those guys are brilliant! I actually met the guy who directed Brass Eye (that’s Michael Cummings) and I was so excited. I kind of withered away and tried not to blush, and got all embarrassed and tongue-tied. Argh!” Make no mistake, however - the girl means business. And a long side a ll the clow ning a nd melodra ma , she is a lso unquestionably striking - one of those annoying people who manage to be thin but also have curves, with naturally red lips, raven-coloured tresses and piercing dark eyes. Following TV roles such as Lexy in Lip Service and Kelly (hot babysitter) in Outnumbered, as well as theatre productions including Holding The Man (Trafalgar Studios, 2010) and films such as The Descent: Part 2, she’s further cemented her acting credentials as Lady Bobby Pelham (best friend to Rebecca Hall’s wayward Sylvia) in Tom Stoppard’s critically revered re-working of Ford Maddox Brow n’s te t r a log y Parade’s End. Furthermore, this month we’ll see her in the Coen brothers’ remake of the 1966 comedy flick Gambit in which she plays the secretary to Alan Rickman’s Murdoch-esque media baron alongside a similarly stellar cast including Cameron Diaz and Colin Firth. “Oh god, Cameron is so beautiful it’s depressing!” she sighs. “And you can just talk to her about normal girl stuff. You wouldn’t think that, because she’s this big star. Though I do think the thing about Cameron is her legs. I mean, wow. It’s hard not to look at her.” Indeed, caught between Cameron’s legs and Colin ‘Mr Darcy’ Firth (fresh from his Oscar for The King’s Speech at the time of filming) it proved one of Skellern’s most star-studded movie-making experiences yet. Surprising adventures, perhaps, for someone born into a family of serious academics; her mother is a former university lecturer and her father a professor of electronics. The latter’s job resulted in a great deal of travelling for the family as Anna and her two brothers (one’s currently completing a pHD at the London School of Economics and the other is a sound designer) were growing up

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- they moved out of Sydney when she was six, and country-hopped across the UK, Australia and the USA). However, following a stint at Sydney university (studying development economics), the call of stage and screen could no longer be ignored, and she upped sticks once more for the bright lights of London’s Guildhall, from which she graduated in 2007. Where did the drive to act appear, then, amidst all the academia ? Skeller n pauses, before replying, “I think I was just a really annoying child who was constantly performing to everyone. I don’t think it was something that suddenly dawned on me, I was just born with the ability to be the bane of my family’s life and to be constantly showing off – which I don’t do anymore because I do it in my job! It was just wanting to make people laugh when things get serious.” But with all the comedy turns, she can still do serious. Not that she’s about to pursue a political career anytime soon but she holds some decisive opinions on current affairs and is ardently pro gay marriage: “What’s happening in America is quite disturbing. But I don’t want to be one of those actors who harp on about politics like they know all about these things.” She is also a feminist, in so far as she feels that men and women should enjoy the same treatment: “I don’t know anyone who wouldn’t call themselves a feminist if they took that meaning.” Case in point, she relished the role of Sexy Lexy, her character in the BBC3 drama Lip Service (about a group of 20-something lesbians living in Glasgow) - a strong but feminine figure: “I found it incredibly liberating and inspiring playing a role of someone who, in their frame of reference, doesn’t worry about what men will think,” she says earnestly. “It shouldn’t be such a (cont. page 111)

‘I think I was just a really annoying child who was constantly performing to everyone’

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THE NEW

CHAPLIN Oona Chaplin holds forth on love, adultery, playing Cuban dominoes and living in a commune Words Stephanie Hirschmiller Photography Fabrice Lachant Styling Fran Mullin 46 | AMUSE

he free-spirited champion of the underdog who scores the heir to a kingdom. The subservient wife who stands by her man - despite everything. Yes Oona Chaplin is full of contradictions. Ones that extend way beyond her roles in HBO fantasy, Game of Thrones and Abi Morgan’s BBC drama, The Hour set in 1950’s England. The grand-daughter of the “man with the funny moustache, in the funny hat with the funny walk” (her words) and daughter of award-winning actress Geraldine Chaplin, this scion of silver screen royalty is the ultimate candidate for stage school brat. But growing up, while everyone else wanted to be a princess, model or football player, the young Chaplin wanted to be an economist. It was only after an adaptation of A Midsummer Night’s Dream at Gordonstoun school in which she played Bottom (dressed as her grandfather) that she was bitten by the acting bug. “When I came off stage on opening night I just leapt into my tutor’s arms and cried ‘It’s got me, I fucking love it!’ That’s when I decided to apply to drama school and just tempt fate. And fate spoke.” Born in Madrid, Chaplin, 26, grew up across Cuba, Switzerland, Paris and Spain and an itinerant childhood saw her having travelled the world from Singapore to Sri Lanka by the time she was 12. “It makes you very adaptable and you become very aware that anywhere can be home. So the next place can be home too. I feel pleasantly foreign wherever I am.” She has put down roots of sorts, though, and home, for the last six years – between stints filming Game Of Thrones in Belfast (in the converted Harland & Wolff shipyard where the Titanic was built) and regular forays to Spain and Cuba – is an apartment building in Ladbroke Grove which she describes as being like a little commune. “I never leave my door closed, because the two guys downstairs are my best friends, the couple in front of me are amazing and before them there was a single mum and her kid, who I used to babysit - the kid would just be running from my apartment to hers.” She counts Gemma Arterton as a friend – they were in the same year at RADA – and they try to hang out when they’re in the same hemisphere, but while she’s fresh(ish) from a Porn Star party (complete with an ice sculpture of a giant phallus “peeing vodka”) the night before we meet, she’s just as happy playing dominoes – the Cuban kind, of course: “it’s played in partners and we get really rowdy.” For all the international jet-setting, she insists that her mother never really fraternized with the A-list set and admits she herself is easily starstruck: “I bump into people now and I’m like ‘woahhhh’. I did this charity thing with Roger Moore and I was like ‘you’re Roger Moore!’” Cocooned in a vibrant Kenzo cape (pinched from her mother),

Chaplin’s a firebrand, radiating an entirely positive energy to match. She’s intensely proud of her family and one of the few actors with a ‘lineage’ who doesn’t bleat on about wanting to be celebrated in her own right. She’s incredibly animated, from the way she slaps her thigh to ram home a point, to the constantly changing repertoire of facial expressions and contortions. She can also arch her left eyebrow at will – perhaps owing more to the Chaplin legacy of mime than she might realise. She’s also thoughtful and hyper intelligent, with considered opinions on everything from the merits of the iPhone 5 - “you can actually have intellectual (ish) conversations with Siri (its anthropomorphised PA), if you say to her ‘suck my balls’, she says, ‘do you kiss your mother with that mouth?” - to the current Spanish crisis. “The youth are so cultivated but 50% or 60% of people under the age of 25 are unemployed, and the rest have temporary jobs. I think that what’s happening now resonates with previous civil wars where even the most traditionalist and conservative Spaniards went ‘look, we need to live better than this.’ I‘ve got two friends from my school whose parents are now homeless.” Her father, cinematographer Patricio Castilla, was a big political activist and the first person who asked for political asylum in Cuba, while her paternal grandmother was a leading campaigner in Chile - responsible for winning women the vote. So yes, politics too is coursing through her veins: “I would have been in a lot of the demonstrations that have been happening in Spain.” Furthermore, she’s developing an internet TV s e r i e s f o c u s e d o n C u b a’s retention of its national identity, thanks, in part, to the embargo. “Some episodes are less based on reality and some are more. It’s all very magical realism so we’ll see,” she says cryptically. Un s u r pr i s i n g l y, C h a pl i n identifies strongly with force-ofnature and champion of the underdog, Talisa, whom she plays in Game of Thrones. “She cares about people; if duty called I definitely feel like I would be the first, either with a machete or a band aid.” So how does she explain the popularity of the HBO hit with its 10 million plus viewers per episode? “It’s very highbrow at the same time as being lowbrow. It’s got boobs, blood and battle scenes, more boobs, and a bit of penis too so it taps into something very visceral. But it also has a very acute diagnosis of the struggle for power and the psychology behind that.” She’s equally enamoured with Marnie, her character in The Hour – long suffering wife to Dominic West’s Hector Madden who embarks on an affair with Romola Garai’s hard-nosed TV news producer, Bel Rowley. “Her love for this man in spite of everything he puts her through – I’ve felt that.” She also admits to some controversial opinions on love, citing French author, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. “He said ‘love is not two people looking at each other, but looking in the same direction.’ I really believe that is the most accurate description of love. If you’re(cont. page 111)

‘If duty called I definitely feel like I would be the first, either with a machete or a band aid’

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PICTURES OF

LILY

Downton Abbey newbie Lily James on screen heroes, not getting her kit off and behindthe-scenes secrets from the ITV blockbuster

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Words: Polly Glass Photography: Helen Kirkbright Styling: Fran Mullin

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“A

nd then I got to hang out with Bill Nighy in Wrath of the Titans! He’s a dude! I played Kor r ina , Rosa mu nd Pi ke’s handmaiden, and got stabbed in the heart by Edgar Ramirez!” Excited exclamations from a young up-and-coming actress who’s already amassed more than her fair share of roles. You do have to remind yourself that Lily James is only 23, when you look at the roster of characters she’s played since graduating from Guildhall Drama School. Besides the aforementioned Titans shenanigans, she’s taken on the likes of Poppy (daughter to Belle’s escort friend Stephanie) in Secret Diary of a Callgirl, Shakespearean heroine Desdemona in last year’s Sheffield Crucible production of Othello (alongside The Wire’s Dominic West) and uber-driven runner Lisa in Fast Girls. But now for the gamechanger. She’s soon to appear in hit ITV period series Downton Abbey - appearing in the Christmas Special as mischievous London cousin Lady Rose. “I think all actors want to be chameleons,” she observes. “We’re constantly complaining when we go to castings that the person doesn’t think we can play, say, a junkie east London prostitute, and you’re like ‘I CAN DO ANYTHING! Just give me the chance! I can do it!’ That’s what interests me and excites me about acting - the opportunity to explore different people and different lives, backgrounds, whole worlds.” The real Lily, however, is considerably more down-to-earth and looks very much at home sitting outside a Bethnal Green coffee shop, in her mum’s cosy purple knitwear (“it’s from New Look!”), big messed-up hair and shades. Since moving to the capital, from her family home in Surrey, she has established herself as a proper east Londoner, previously in Dalston and now her current spot, Hackney. “I’ve always hung around in this sort of area, and my two flatmates both work at Pizza East (Shoreditch High Street hipster haunt, selling very nice pizza). And my first boyfriend, when I moved to London, lived on Columbia Road, so the flower market there and that general area was my life for a while.” Since then, it’s been picnics on Hampstead Heath and cider in pubs around Tufnell Park. “I love the Spaniard pub which is where Keats wrote ‘Ode To A Nightingale,’” she tells us. “It sounds a bit wanky, but yeah, I like it.” There’s also a favoured pub near Gospel Oak tube that has about 10 different ciders on tap - “you can’t ever walk out of there straight but it’s a great place!” In the style stakes, when’s she’s not ingesting east end vintage shops or the Chatsworth Road Sunday market, Lily tailors her look around some slick staples. “My favourite designer is Chloe. Definitely,” she says, unwaveringly. “I wear the perfume as well, it’s great. And for high street I go for Zara or Urban Outfitters.”

The allure of period drama, however, with its divine costumes, drew her in and joining Downton was a real dream come true. “I think when you’re sat doing one of those dining room scenes, round the table, and the lighting and the set - it’s a serious ‘wow’ moment,” she breathes. She also lets us into a secret - not only is the food real, it’s also top notch. “I had a chicken pastry thing and it was sooo good, but unfortunately the wine isn’t real,” she smiles ruefully. She’s also happy that she gets to keep her clothes on: “with a lot of the stuff I’ve done so far, like a play I did when I had to get down to my underwear, my brothers (she has an older brother working for Sky Sports and a younger one studying chemical engineering) and my granny were like, ‘LILY, STOP IT!’ So this is the first thing that I think my granny is going to really enjoy!” Yes Lily marks the third generation of performers in her family. Her father, who passed away in 2008, played in a band called TwoWay with Anthony Head (yes the one from Buffy... who also played the sexually deviant PM in Little Britain). “He was super, super cool and used to play guitar when I was a tiny little girl,” she reminisces. “I used to sing all these old school country bluesy songs and dance around, and my grandma (US stage and screen actress Helen Horton) used to sew me pretty dresses.” While acting may have proved her ultimate calling, music has wielded a profound inf luence too and during her childhood, the sounds of Carole King, Nick Drake, James Taylor, Joni Mitchell and Annie Lennox f illed the James home. “I think its really romantic, my dad made my mum - when (cont. page 111)

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54 | AMUSE

ALISTAIR GUY’S ASSISTANT LUKE FREEMAN

THE POWERBROKER Has marriage softened workaholic Dubai based dealmaker Amanda Staveley? Natalie Livingstone finds out Photography: Alistair Guy Make-Up: Erika de la Barquera

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manda Staveley is feeling love sick. The 39 year-old financier, famed for brokering multi-million pound, headline-catching transactions, is pining for her husband of one ye a r, I r a n i a n - b or n Me h r d a d Ghodoussi. “He left at 1am last night and I’ve been sort of mooching around all day and thinking how much I miss him,” she says with disarming honesty. “It is amazing really because I’m very independent and never really thought I would marry. I’m quite a selfish person, I like my work and I didn’t want too much to interfere with that. But it [marriage] so far has been remarkably easy.” Standing at an imposing six foot in heels, Staveley has carved out a niche for herself as the go-to girl on most matters of Middle Eastern deal-making. Having been associated with a plethora of high-profile transactions, from property to telecoms, the blonde glamazon’s defining moment occurred in late 2008 when she helped rescue Barclays from a government bail-out by bringing Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed al-Nahyan to the table with a £3.5 billion cheque. She was said to have pocketed between 30 and 40 million pounds for her efforts. The now-legendary Barclays deal came in the wake of the £210 million sale of Manchester City football club to the same Sheikh, establishing Staveley’s reputation as one of the most tenacious and productive deal brokers in the region. The fact that she is endowed with the proportions of a catwalk model, makes her achievement in the notoriously male-dominated sphere all the more remarkable. “In my experience, in the Middle East you are judged on your track record. If you do a good job for your client they will re-hire you. If you invest well for them they re-invest with you. It’s as simple as that,” she says of her unprecedented success in the region. “It’s a very different style of business from the UK. It is quieter. The hours are longer but in my business you have to give absolutely everything you have to your clients and investors.” Staveley, who dropped out of a modern languages course at Cambridge University after just 18 months, has always had an irrepressible entrepreneurial drive. Following her departure from St Catherine’s College, she obtained a £180,000 loan to open a restaurant in nearby Newmarket. Then in 2000, during the dotcom boom, she started Q.Ton - a high-tech conference centre, at the Cambridge Science Park, which attracted the attention of high ranking Abu Dhabi officials. However, her foray into the dotcom world ended abruptly in 2001 after EuroTelecom, which had a 49 per cent stake in Q.Ton, collapsed. “The experience that really shaped my life was nearly losing everything,” she recalls of that period of uncertainty. “I can always look back and remember that fear of having nothing.”

Thankfully for Amanda, that fear was not to be realized and by 2005, she had set up Dubai-based private equity company PCP Capital Partners, which boasts a formidable roster of Emirati and Qatari clients. The company’s role is varied – sometimes lobbying on political issues, on other occasions simply match-making central protagonists in the Middle East to execute deals. Most recently, she negotiated the sale of Arundel Great Court in London from British property firm Land Securities for an estimated £250 million. It is abundantly clear that, despite her recent wedding, Staveley shows no sign of easing up on her frenetic work schedule. She rises at 5am most mornings, goes for a swim or a run and sets off to Abu Dhabi from her home in Dubai to meet investors. Even the night before her 2011 wedding at West Wycombe Park, she worked until the early hours of the morning. “I felt so tired on my wedding day. I didn’t even have time to get my hair cut on the day because I had to leave to go to work,” she recalls. However, despite working round the clock, Staveley still managed to pull out all the stops when it came to her wedding dress, which was designed by Sarah Burton who made the Duchess of Cambridge’s gown. “It was really beautiful,” she says of the sleek strapless creation. “I’ve never seen such a team of people put in so much work and effort into a dress. I had a very clear idea of what I wanted – it had to be simple and perfect.” Has it been tricky for the fiercely independent deal-maker to adjust to married life? “It’s hard. I mean, it is lovely to be with someone that you adore but it was a very big decision to get married. I’m lucky I have an incredibly patient and understanding husband who just knows that work is going to come first.” Staveley met Mehrdad, a dashing Iranian wealth manager two years her senior (they now work together), through friends in London. He proposed on Valentine’s Day at sunset on the dunes overlooking the Arabian Sea. “We have a lot of fun together. He brings out the younger, more childlike Amanda in me. It is wonderful to have someone who knows you so well. We used to argue early on in our relationship but now we don’t argue about anything.” Amanda’s idyllic domestic life is in stark contrast to the furore surrounding the financial arena, in particular the latest debacle to aff lict Barclays. In September this year it emerged that the beleaguered bank was the focus of a criminal investigation by the Serious Fraud Office (SFO) over apparently suspicious payments made in June 2008. Although Staveley’s role in the Barclays bailout is not part of the investigation, it has inevitably left her feeling unsettled. “I don’t want to say too much about what the SFO is investigating because we just know it doesn’t relate to us. Unfortunately it was very uncomfortable because we were in the process

‘I’m lucky I have an incredibly patient and understanding husband who just knows that work is going to come first’

56 | AMUSE

Staveley weds Ghodoussi in Alexander McQueen (below), Staveley commissioned a second McQueen gown for her wedding reception (left)

of bringing on a lot of new clients just as the story was breaking.” Nevertheless, Staveley is confident in the resilience of the UK banking system. “I do believe time will heal,” she says. “But a new style of banking has to emerge. There has to be much, much more disclosure and transparency over what the banks are selling and to whom and where the eventual risk lies. It’s going to take some time.” As a way of acknowledging her own good fortune, Staveley recently established a charitable foundation to help the homeless. “My biggest fear, and this goes back to the days when life was really tough, was not having a roof over my head so homeless charities have become a key issue for me,” she explains of her motivations. “I want the money to go to the right areas and get it working properly.” Philanthropic endeavours aside, how, I wonder, does a woman worth more than £100 million splash her cash? “I’m the world’s worst shopper,” she laughs. So I have to rely on the wonderful personal shoppers at Selfridges. The team there are just amazing. In fact, James, my personal shopper came to my wedding! I don’t know what I’d do without him!” Her lack of confidence is the reason Staveley gives for rejecting numerous offers to front business-themed TV shows. “I have turned down Dragon’s Den twice. It is not what I want to do because I

couldn’t cope with the intrusion into my life. There is this new breed of person who is part celebrity, part business person and I don’t ever want to be that.” Was it this yearning for a peaceful, below-the-radar existence that forced her to curtail her much-hyped romance with Prince Andrew? She was rumoured to have turned down his proposal in 2003. “I am kind of sick about talking about it,” she cautions. “I appreciate these things are going to come up but all I would say to you is that I had really great boyfriends growing up in my twenties and I’ve always been very, very lucky. The Duke of York is a good friend and he has a heart of gold, but I am married now and my husband is fed up with it being referenced.” With a flourishing career and supportive relationship, there is one crucial piece of the jigsaw to complete Staveley’s fairytale. “I’m going to be 40 next year and I do want children,” she confesses. “There just hasn’t been time until this point. I really do admire other working women who have managed to do it. I’ve never been very good at juggling.” With babies high on the agenda, Staveley’s most pressing project at the moment is fitting in a long overdue honeymoon. “We haven’t managed to get round to one yet,” she laughs. “I would like to go and do something a bit different.” And with a reputation as an agenda-setter, I’m sure it won’t be too long before she does. AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Below: Giles Deacon handlebar bag for Skyride, £40; above right: Minnie Mouse one-off for BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation; above: Giles AW/12

ROC F K STAR Enigmatic designer Giles Deacon talks collaborations, cartoons and country house drama with Stephanie Hirschmiller. And a little matter of a crème bruleé burner...

58 | AMUSE

ne of the things that is really endearing about Giles Deacon is that he still refers to the showstoppers he sends down the catwalk as “frocks” (posh ones.) This is the man who, following stints as head designer at Bottega Veneta and working for Gucci under Tom Ford, launched his eponymous line in 2003 – scooping Designer of Year in the British Fashion Awards just two years after his LFW debut. Said debut was styled by Katie Grand (whom he used to date) and modelled by Karen Elson, Eva Herzigova and Linda Evangelista. Deacon’s frocks are worn by celebrities from Emma Watson to Victoria Beckham, the latter choosing a custom-made Giles number for her Spice Girls reunion appearance at th Olympics Closing Ceremony. In person, he radiates calm, is resolutely matter of fact and grounded in that particular Northern way – he’s originally from Cumbria although these days, it’s north London that he calls home. You wouldn’t catch Giles Deacon in a skirt. Or, one would suspect, hurling insults in a Paris dive bar. His bespectacled face is often compared to that of a scientist but while he enjoyed marine biology at school, he admits that “I don’t think I’d be intelligent enough to do it properly”. For him it was a fascination with the aesthetics of the natural world rather than its more academic side. “There are lots of shapes and organic things that I like, and all sorts of natural forms that can be great to draw from.” Case in point: his debut collec tion feat ured leather jeweller y modelled on stag beetles while SS10 saw tarantula pr ints crawling across si lk dresses and tongue-in-cheek handbags in the shape of friendly looking dinosaurs. So how did he get into fashion? “It just developed,” he says frankly, “there was no eureka moment. I always find it a bit creepy, those people who decide to become fashion designers when they’re three, because they looked at their granny’s skirts or something weird like that.” An art foundation course at Harrogate College led to Central St Martins. For Deacon, fashion and illustration have always gone hand in hand – in fact, an illustration of a budgerigar reportedly won over Lisa Moltedo (then owner of Bottega). “When I was going for the job, I took my sketch book which did have some designs in it as well, but there was also a picture of a budgerigar driving a Rolls Royce and she really seemed to warm to that. I don’t think that was the deal clincher,” he deadpans, “but she has a good playful sense of humour and she really liked that.” Nope, you could never accuse Deacon of being precious. He even confesses to being something of a nerd – especially when it comes to technology. An illustration of a woman he did on his iPad (FYI

he uses the Paper app) appears in various guises in both his Resort and SS13 collections. “You basically have these electronic sketch books,” he enthuses, “and you can get as many of them as you like on there and either draw with your finger or a pen. It’s great because I spend a lot of time sat in airports and I can just quickly sketch out an idea, get in down. I’m a bit geeky like that,” he concludes. It’s sometimes hard to reconcile this geeky side with the otherness of his collections. Take AW12 inspired by Hannah Rothschild’s biography of her great aunt, The Baroness, and its description of English stately homes set ablaze by faulty wiring. “The idea of all these beautiful buildings and art and tapestries burning, is where it came from.” I’m imagining some uber delicate technique being used to singe those degradé ballgowns into their elegantly wasted state, but he soon sets me straight: “you get a crème bruleé burner and burn it all by hand, it’s the only way.” Sure he’s a fan of Julian Fellowes’ Downton Abbey and is eagerly anticipating next year’s Great Gatsty adaptation. “Carey [Mulligan] is a really wonderful actress so she should do something good with that – a friend of mind was on set and said it looked fantastic.” But in the same way as he is fascinated by the forms of the natural world over the science bit, Deacon is more into social history and people rather than getting all referential about particular periods. He is a winning combination of aesthete and pragmatist, and that’s also where the collaborations come in – Mulberry and Daks to New Look, Nine West and now cycling initiative, Sky Ride, for which he has designed a python print handlebar bag: “I always like to do thing s that sit comfortably with the label and I like things that bring a new audience to the work that you do. I appreciate that not everybody has £2,000 to spend on lovely posh frocks so it’s nice for people to be able to buy into it.” He’s even just created a one-off dress and headband inspired by Disney’s Minnie Mouse as part of a charity collaboration for the BFC and Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation (it fetched £1,600 on eBay). Which sits closer to the Pac-Man helmets of SS09 and cartoon knits of SS11 than the destruction at the root of his current offering. But it’s all part of the whole. “I think I have a good understanding of both light and dark. I think darkness is an aspect of life you need to embrace rather than hide from it. I like very happy things and I like some melancholic things, I think it makes a broader and more interesting person. It’s what makes the world more interesting,” he muses. And if you’re missing his dalliance with arachnids of a few seasons past, you might just be in luck. A recent trip to London’s Wellcome Collection had him captivated by a section concerning fleas...

‘I think darkness is an aspect of life you need to embrace rather than hide from...It’s what makes the world more interesting’

goskyride.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

60 | AMUSE

ALISTAIR GUY’S ASSISTANT LUKE FREEMAN

IN THE

CLUB I

Some women juggle motherhood and a career. But most of these don’t have nine children. Aimee Stebbing meets Helena Morrissey, one of the founders of the 30% club, which aims to get more women onto company boards

t is a universally acknowledged truth that the UK’s top businesses have a woeful lack of women at the helm. Why should you care? If you have an interest in your career, whatever that may be, you should. Helena Morrissey did. She wanted to see more women on company boards so she founded the 30% Club in November 2010. “I wanted to help women, particularly those who decided they do want to have a family and do want to contribute and have a fulfilled working life too.” Morrissey, 46, is an exceptional businesswoman. She is the CEO of New ton Investment Management. She presides over almost £50 billion worth of invested money. This year she was awarded a CBE for services to UK businesses. Oh and she has nine children (yes, nine - three boys, six girls). At the beg inning of 2011, women made up only 12.5% of the top 100 public company boards. We lagged behind Thailand. It was so embarrassing in fact, that David Cameron asked Lord Mervyn Davies to write a report explaining why British boardrooms only had women making notes rather than making decisions. The Davies report, published in that February, found that if the current rate of change continued, it would take 70 years to double the number of women on boards to 25%. So, even if a woman did want it all, how could she get to the top before drawing her pension? This was the backdrop to the launch of the 30% Club. Its aims

were twofold: to encourage gender diversity in boardrooms and increase the number of female directors on these FTSE companies. Face to face, Morrissey is nothing less than impeccable effortlessly managing to be gracious, articulate, amusing, selfdeprecating and ridiculously stylish. Searching for an edge, for a chink in her Roksanda Ilincic armour, I can report that I certainly didn’t seen one. The sharpest thing about her, after her intellect, is the pin on her Lanvin broach. It ’s d i f f ic u lt to re conc i le Morrissey with her alter-ego: a mother of nine. She is reported to have said she thought she would stop at five children, but just carried on. Her “I have seen first-hand that it can be quite difficult to combine a career and motherhood,” sounds like the understatement of the year. However, I am assured she has plenty of help and the home is run with military precision. There’s a nanny, but the lynchpin is her husband Richard, who runs the household. Of family life, it should ideally be “a real partnership between the man and the woman. Parents should both work together to avoid one party making all the compromises and sacrifices.” She’s pragmatic, though, and acknowledges that a complete balance of roles is still pretty hard to achieve and dependent on individual circumstances. “Family life requires lots of give and take,” she says. And while she may have the discipline to leave the office at six

‘I have seen first-hand that it can be quite difficult to combine a career and motherhood’

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

‘Women have to be there on merit, not to tick a box. Quotas are not only unnecessary but potentially damaging’

o’clock to eat with her family, she carries on working afterwards albeit from home. Touchingly, though, she cites the key to her success – aside from hard graft a nd a belief in hersel f – a s “suppor t f rom my husba nd and family.” The Club is run by a steering committee made up of women from mostly City based backgrounds who meet regularly to discuss its direction and ways to encourage more FTSE companies to join the board - so far, 56 companies have signed up. The statistics show that they have made a difference. The numbers of women on FTSE 100 boards have risen from 12.5% to 17.3% since the club was founded. Prior to the club’s inception, Morrissey had made other less successful attempts at raising awareness of the benefits of gender diversity. However, she soon realised her errors: “I thought perhaps there were two things that we were doing wrong; one, we weren’t involving men enough and secondly we needed a measurable goal. That’s where the 30% target came in”. At a Club event in July, Robert Swannell, chairman of M&S, remembered being asked to sign up: “I paused for quite a while because I thought, why is it 30%? Why isn’t it a higher number?” As Morrissey says, “30% was chosen as lots of research suggests that’s when the minority’s voice starts to get heard. If it’s just one woman in the room, she’s heard as ‘the woman’ - by the time you get to three out of 10 then she’s heard as a person.” Suffice to say that since the Club was launched, M&S has reached the goal w i t h 30 % of its most senior positions being f illed by women. The argument for gender diversity seems so obvious that it’s a wonder things haven’t changed before now. Not only is it the right thing to do, but studies show that it makes f inancial sense. Shareholders obtain better returns on their investment when there are female directors. One example is luxury retailer, Burberry. The board of Burberry is 38% female. Burberry saw its share price surge by 50% over the last two years. Well-balanced boards, then, make well-balanced decisions. The idea behind the 30% Club translates across all sectors. Retail, hospitality, teaching, nursing – all careers traditionally chosen by young women will benefit. Women bring different qualities to the work place. Studies have shown that women have better attendance records than men on boards and are better risk managers. They also communicate more efficiently. She’s adamant, though, that it needs to be voluntary and views rumblings from Europe about quotas with some concern. “Women have to be there on merit, not to tick a box. Quotas are not only unnecessary but potentially damaging and undermine the equality the pro-quota lobby seeks. We’re already seeing a radical shift in the mindset of business leaders about what makes a good corporate board. The numbers are lagging behind the attitude shift, but it is happening and being driven by business reasons rather than political correctness.” “It’s not that I’m a particularly ambitious person, it’s more that when I see something that I see needs doing, I want to do it” finishes Morrissey. If that’s not ambitious, I don’t know what is. 62 | AMUSE

LEADING LIGHTS OF THE

30% CLUB

BARONESS MARY GOUDIE:

30% Club co-founder Goudie has been a Member of the House of Lords since 1998. She has held senior positions in the Labour Party, in the House of Lords and led the campaign for ratification of the United Nations’ Treaty on Human Trafficking. She is Chair of the Women Leaders’ Council to Fight Human Trafficking at the UN and is involved with the G8 and G20 promoting the role of women and children in the global economy. In 1971 she became the youngest woman to be elected to the London Borough of Brent Council. She also has a consultancy practice offering strategic counselling to companies and organizations. She is married with two sons and lives in London, Glasgow and Cape Cod, Massachusetts. She says: “All-women things do not work. 51% of the world is made up of women, and still things don’t work in their favour, so it’s men you’ve got to convince and you’ve got to have them on board. So, that’s what we decided to do. We launched in July 2011 and were at Number 10 by October.”

TAMARA BOX

A founding member of the club’s Steering Committee, Box is the global Head of Structured Finance at international law firm Reed Smith. She has over 20 years experience and is a recognised expert in finance law. A graduate of London School of Economics and Georgetown University Law Center, she is dual qualified to practise in both England and New York. Actively involved in the restructuring of securitisation transactions affected by the recent credit crisis - in particular by the Lehman bankruptcies - she features in The International Who’s Who of Business Lawyers. She says: “My advice for young women is to build your own board of advisors, mentors and sponsors. Many contacts you make have the power to help you achieve your goals. Don’t be afraid to ask for help, and seek it from as many sources as possible.”

HEATHER MCGREGOR

KATUSHKA GILTSOFF

A Steering Committee member of the 30% Club, Gilstoff had an early career as a Proprietary Commodities Trader at Lehman Brothers, before moving into running front office recruitment for the trading arms of Lehman, Merrill Lynch and BZW. She joined Whitehead Mann in early 1994 as one of the original partners, moving to The Miles Partnership in 2009. She will always encourage clients to challenge their assumptions and is constantly looking for emerging trends that will impact her clients’ businesses. She says: “My grandmother was the first woman stockbroker in 1922. I tell young girls to get the best education they can and make sure they have a good numbers and/or science a-level. Ask for promotions, set yourself goals and make sure you communicate these to others. If you don’t get what you want, move on to another organisation. Be prepared to work hard, learn to multi-task and juggle your life. Never allow others to see any self doubt. Have mentors, share your experiences and help others on your way up.”

‘Ask for promotions, set yourself goals and make sure you communicate these to others’

30% Club co-founder, McGregor is the managing director of executive search firm, Taylor Bennett. She has an MBA from the London Business School and a PhD from the University of Hong Kong, as well as an Honorary Doctorate from the University of East London. She is a columnist in the Weekend Financial Times and the author of Advice for Ambitious Women. Heather chairs the educational charity Career Academies UK, which works with 16-19-year-olds to raise their career aspirations, and started the Taylor Bennett Foundation, which runs training course for black and minority ethnic graduates to equip them for their first job in communications. She says: “I got involved with the 30% Club because I thought it was time to stop waiting for someone to do something about the lack of women on FTSE boards and try and help myself. And because Helena asked me!”

GAY COLLINS:

Collins is a founder member of the Steering Committee of the 30% Club, a non executive director of an investment trust and chairman of the public relations firm, MHP Communications. An entrepreneur herself, Collins was involved in setting up PR firm Penrose Financial, which she sold almost three years ago. She says: “I became involved with the 30% Club because I want to see change in my lifetime, and hoping others might make it happen wasn’t an option. I agreed to run the PR aspects because I knew what a crucial difference the media could make to our cause and because when Helena asked for volunteers to head up the PR Steering Committee, I soon realised I was the sole PR person in the room! The secret to my success is determination, hard work, having a job I love and being lucky enough to have a great nanny who stayed with us for 10 years, as well as a husband who worked for himself and was able to be more f lexible on his working hours.” AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

DRESS, POA, Jacquemus COAT, £4,411, Alexandre Vauthier

64 | AMUSE

COLD

SANDS

A deserted winter beach is the perfect canvas for the season’s minimalist yet dramatic looks Photography: Roberto Zambelli Styling: Benjamin Orion

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m a n

a b o u t

NICK COX

t o w n

We’re becoming a promiscuous nation of olfactory swingers

TOM FORD NOIR FRAGRANCE

nce, we men doused ourselves in scent to mark our territory, and the boundaries were clear; we smelt bold and gutsy while women wore feminine florals. Lately, there’s been a shake up in the scent stakes and it seems set to make us all olfactory swingers, whether we’re splashing colognes or dabbing on perfume. If a woman will wear a boyfriend jacket and a man can rock a skirt no wonder when it comes to scent it’s all there for the taking! Ben Gorham of perfumiers Byredo agrees, feeling that the most common mistake guys make with fragrance is “limiting their choice to what they think is usually male or female.” If there’s one fragrance ingredient that sums up this current ‘anything goes’ attitude then it’s oud, a sensual but sexless scent, increasingly popular with men and women who have educated their noses to higher levels of spice and sophistication. Interestingly it’s particularly popular in Saudi Arabia, perhaps one of the most alpha-male places on earth - but, according to the perfumier Roja Dove, “men (there) wear any scent they choose, masculine or feminine.” The complex and intriguing Aramis Perfume Calligraphy utilises oud together with top notes of lemon, cinnamon and cardamom followed by saffron flowers, rose absolute and myrrh. It will linger seductively in the air and on your skin if you are man enough to wear it (£105 for 100ml EDP, harrods.com). Fragrant guys are also feeling florals and if there is one note that resonates currently then it’s rose - which makes Tom Ford Noir ‘PERFUMIERS DON’T referring to perfume. intoxicating from the first sniff. Its smooth DICTATE WHO and velvety core combines spicy black pepper More potent and complex scents with a and nutmeg with luxurious iris resin and SHOULD WEAR THEIR far higher concentration of fragrant oils are Egyptian geranium, making for a complex CREATIONS, SO WHY rising in popularity and men like them because oriental bouquet. Mr Ford says rose gives it they can go the distance. Cue Roja Dove’s SHOULD WE?’ a “luminous and uplifting effect that is pure latest offering, Fetish Eau De Parfum Pour elegance.” He continues that it also has an Homme (£195 for 100ml, harrods.com). unusual amount of female fans: “women seem hungry to get it onto their I’m betting that this sensual chypre fragrance with its dry, own skin!” (£60 for 50ml, tomford.com). spicy and leathery notes will be a success with women as Clearly, fragrances are swinging both ways, and why not? Even the rose well as men. itself has both a fragile flower and thorns, and its fragrance will smell wildly So, it’s time to ditch your signature scent and invest in different on men and women. some new olfactory accessories. Wear them according to Perfumiers don’t dictate who should wear their creations so why should your mood, or as finishing touches like your cufflinks or we? Jo Malone knows more than most about what makes a winning scent, tie-pin and remember, the only rules are that there are no explaining: “whenever I’m designing, I don’t think about whether it would rules. Wear what you like, when you like, and prepare yourself suit a man or a woman but rather, do I love it?” So when sophisticated men for a fragrant free-for-all! talk about reaching for a drop of ‘the hard stuff,’ they might actually be Nick Cox is a style consultant and editor of thegroomingguide.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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Beauty News whopping 5000 sq ft with the launch of The Beauty Workshop. On the ground floor (in the place which used to house posh pens) it's a space dedicated to the best in beauty from all around the world - the sort of place you'll discover a new cult product every time you visit. Not only that, it's a one-stop pit-stop for glamour, with a nails inc paint shop, St Tropez Finishing Studio, Blink Brow Bar and Hersheson Dry Bar. Phew! 0800 1387425, selfridges.com/appointments

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Liberty's first hair salon has been entrusted to none other than acclaimed colourist Josh Wood. The Atelier Liberty is open on the third floor of the store and is as perfectionist as his eponymous Notting Hill salon. It also features the world's first Wella Illumina Light Bar, where the colourist can control the light they work in and you can see your colour in various lighting scenarios. From £30, for bookings call 0203 393 0977, liberty.co.uk 78 | AMUSE

What: Pit Stop Male Grooming Menu at Spa InterContinental For: The man in your life Where: InterContinental London Park Lane, One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY What it's like: The word ‘pit stop’ sounds reassuringly manly, so play on that angle to get him in the door. Ultimately, of course, it's still all about you. Booking him into the ‘Pre Date Perfection’ treatment means he'll turn up as the best groomed date ever. Everything from the facial to the body scrub, and even a wax for any off-puttingly hirsute areas. If you want to get in on the act yourself, go for the VIP experience for two in a twin treatment room followed by lunch at the Theo Randall restaurant. Results: A calm, cool, clean man who will never again question the expense of your weekly facial. From £90, 020 7318 8691, spaintercontinental.com

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London SW1X 9EJ Who: Katarina Kramek What it’s like: Sitting in the hairdresser’s chair is the perfect time to get your nails done; all that waiting around reading the latest aMuse, your time might as well be put to good use. At Knightsbridge institution, Neville’s, you can have an expert manicure or pedicure while getting the cut n’ blow-dry of a lifetime. If you’re seriously time restricted they’ll even have two girls working on you at once - one on toes, one on nails. Katarina has been with the salon for eight years and produces perfect nails that last at least a week (a record for me). Results: Perfect nails to match your perfect hair. £35 020 7235 3654

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HEAVY METAL

Match your rocks with jewel coloured talons says Arabella Preston

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ast year’s metallic nail trend continues apace this season with all the major brands producing even more sumptuous shades and precious jewel tones. Estée Lauder in particular has produced a stand-out collection with fiery lava-like polish, dark emeralds and sapphires, as well as the most luxurious deep amethyst we’ve seen. The high-street is catching up too with both Revlon and Rimmel pushing the boat out with colour ranges and quality. Jenny Longworth, Nail Ambassador for Revlon - who counts Rhianna and Jessie J among her clients - loves metallics, seeing them as a luxurious accessory or extension of your jewellery. “They are dramatic, expensive and a perfect look for evening or parties,” she says.

Metallics have their quirks, however, one of which can be their tendency to look streaky, particularly with the paler golds and silvers. To avoid this, Jenny recommends working quickly with the polish, keeping strokes as even and straight as possible. They have brilliant staying power, particularly glitters, as they bind to the nail. However, this can make them tear-inducing to remove. For this, Jenny advises soaking a cotton pad in nail polish remover and wrapping around the fingertips, applying some pressure. “Do this to all ten fingers and leave for a couple of minutes. Press down and wipe away from the nail to avoid spreading the colour over your skin. Then lightly buff away any remaining colour.” AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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To create a masterpiece, you just need the perfect palette says Arabella Preston

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MAKE UP STORE EYESHADOW IN BABYDOLL £11 LANCOME TEINT MIRACLE FOUNDATION £27

“I

’ve never met a person I couldn’t call a beauty” said Andy Warhol and in the hands of make-up maestro Francois NARS, never has a truer word been said. Collaborating with the Andy Warhol Foundation, NARS has created a pop art inspired collection that draws on not just Andy’s work, but his influence and spirit. The Eyeshadow Palettes are a wonder to behold, each one a stand-out example of craftsmanship and modern technology. Featuring an image of Warhol, they also carry one of his inspirational quotes on the mirror. “I believe in low lights and trick mirrors” is another Warhol pearl of wisdom. The chunky soft touch shadow pencils in vivid purple, silver and teal are easy to use and wear - great party season pick-me-ups, while bold glosses and nail polishes in vibrant hues are evocative of Andy Warhol’s famous silk screens. A flawless, clear base is essential to allow the colours to pop. Lancome’s Teint Miracle is perfect for this, really delivering on coverage while leaving the skin with a fresh sheen. Then you can have some fun! NARS thinks women shouldn’t be afraid of bright colours, but does advise some caution: “Making a look work is about finding a balance. Pair a bold lip with a lighter eye, or go the other way around.” 80 | AMUSE

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Beauty

82 | aMUSE

Beauty

BEAUTY

MARKET (Above) BeautyMART in Harvey Nichols; (Below left to right) Anna-Marie and Millie

SWEEP

Anna-Marie Solowĳ and Millie Kendall are on a two women mission to change the way we do our beauty shopping. For Good.

“P

Interview: Arabella Preston Photography: Daniel Nadel

eople don’t go to Boots because they want to, they go because they need to,” says Anna-Marie Solowij, one half of beauty’s new dream team. And so begins the revolution. When we meet, in their bright, airy offices in a converted mews off the Holloway Road - a matter of weeks before the launch of new retail concept, BeautyMART - Solowij and business partner, Millie Kendall, are constantly fielding calls and checking emails. It’s lucky they are brilliant multi-taskers. They are also passionate and totally convinced that after three years of planning, the MART - launched this October at Harvey Nichols - will be the answer to all our beauty shopping woes. Solowij and Kendall want to change the way we shop for cosmetics for good. Their BeautyMART experience aims to give every customer the impression that they have a top beauty editor at their side as they shop. Obsessively curated, intensely thought through, this is the accumulation of years of insider knowledge – a handpicked selection of tried, tested and cult products sold by expert staff (who won’t be on commission). Anna-Marie Solowij is a beauty journalist with serious pedigree, starting her career at Marie Claire and Elle and following up with a six-year stint as Beauty Director at Vogue and a subsequent highprofile freelance career with an FT column and a partnership in a branding agency. Millie Kendall is a beauty maverick who first AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Beauty ANNA-MARIE SOLOWIJ’S TOP PICKS

• Balance Me Hand Cream ‘Love the scent and the rich, creamy texture.’ £14.50 • Bioderma Crealine H2O Micellar Water ‘From backstage to bathroom, this is an all-round great cleanser.’ £16.50 • Leonor Greyl Masque Fleurs de Jasmine ‘I love the smell and how it transforms my hair from mohair to silk.’ £54 • Une BB Concealer ‘Not too thick or dry, a compact concealer, with good coverage and anti-bacterial ingredients.’ £10

MILLIE KENDALL’S TOP PICKS

• Alpha H Perfecting Skin System – ‘Overnight skin transformer - brightening, smoothing and lifting!’ £56 • DHC Mascara Perfect Pro – ‘Brush it on, and then peel it off.’ £13 • Pretty Peaushun in ‘Deep Dark’ – ‘The ultimate body skin perfector!’ £25

84 | AMUSE

HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY TINA PRITCHARD USING PAUL YACOMINE AND PAUL & JOE

Beauty

brought Shu Uemura to the UK in 1990 - when she was just 23 long before any of the niche brands, or Space NK, for that matter, existed. She went on to launch her own Ruby & Millie line and help launch multiple others. Imagine, if you can, a time before MAC, Aveda, or any of the make-up artist brands such as Bobbi Brown or Laura Mercier. Imagine a time when make-up shopping meant Boots or braving the local department store full of stuffy old-fashioned lines. This is the world in which Solowij and Kendall first collided. In 1990, during her time at Elle, Solowij took a young make-up artist - Ruby Hammer - to the first Shu Uemura counter in Harvey Nichols for a feature on beauty’s secret addresses. Kendall was working on the counter. Eight years later Ruby and Millie went on to found their eponymous brand in Boots. Their lives continued to interweave over the years and the two kept in touch despite Kendall moving to LA. Solowij had never intended to become a beauty entrepreneur, but three years ago, af ter a c h a nc e c onve r s a t ion w i t h Da n iel la R i na ld i - Ha r vey Nichol s’ leg enda r y be aut y director – Rinaldi called her into an official meeting. She outlined her vision of what was to become BeautyMART and found herself being told to “ just do it”. It makes a great anecdote now, but it must have felt fairly momentous at the time - for a journalist to be thrown into the deep end of retail. “I called Millie,” she laughs, “and I said, ‘you won’t believe what I have just done. I’ve just gone and given this idea to Daniella and she wants to do it and what are we going to do?’” “I was pacing round the living room,” Kendall joins in, “and said, well, what you need is a strategic partner, someone who understands retail.” “And I said, yeah, why do you think I’m phoning you?” counters Solowij. They both break off into peals of laughter, but one senses that they are still shocked at how far they have come.

At the time Kendall had just resigned from Ruby & Millie and was consulting for other brands, but “it wasn’t anything different from what I’d done before and I like to try something new. I like to think I’m a jack of all trades, master of absolutely everything. I am beauty boss!” “You are beauty boss,” interjects Solowij. There’s a mutual respect between the two women and a passion for the BeautyMART products that is totally infectious. One can imagine the fun they had zooming round London in Solowij’s car, her beloved dog on the backseat, going from meeting to meeting convincing the world’s biggest beauty brands to take a chance on their start-up. And take a chance they have, with 1050 products launching instore. “My dream was that we would have everything at launch and it would be perfect,” she says, “but then that doesn’t give you anywhere to go. So it’s going to be constantly evolving and that’s what will keep people coming back.” The vibe is of a Topshop/ Biba/Abercrombie hybrid: think black lacquer cabinets with b r i g ht o r a n g e a nd ye l low panelling. A million miles away from the sterile shelves of Boots. In fact, BeautyMART is put together by genre, not brand. So you’ll find the three nail polish removers the girls think are best (Bourjois, Andrea Fullerton and Qtex), a selection of great waterproof mascaras (across all price points), everything from Eight Hour Cream and Jolene bleach to Astalift Jelly and organic cotton tampons. All purses are catered for with high ticket products featuring only where they believe the price tag is justified. “It’s much closer to what you’d see in your own bathroom cabinet or make-up bag, so it feels more familiar and less daunting,” says Solowij. Intuitive, stylish, fun and reassuringly grown-up. BeautyMART may just have filled a gaping hole in our lives - and our bathrooms. BeautyMART at Harvey Nichols (third floor) beautymart.co.uk, harveynichols.com

‘It’s much closer to what you’d see in your own bathroom cabinet or make-up bag, so it feels more familiar’

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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FEMINISM IS ONLY SKIN DEEP

PHOTO: REX FEATURES

would love to say that my ideas and beliefs were rigid and immutable for time immemorial, but in all honesty, my consciousness is as mutable, meandering and evershifting as anyone else’s. Five years ago, if you’d asked me about Botox I would have said a resolute ‘no’. But now, at 41, I’m starting to see the point of it, as a lot of people did tell me I would. Why? Firstly, I think, as feminists, women have to stop beating up other women for their personal choices – no woman is an enemy because she has had a few injections in her face. Secondly, there are far more important issues at stake than Botox for feminists - like equal pay, rape and maternity rights. Appearance should figure low on the agenda. However, a few tweaks do allow women in the entertainment industry career longevity, where once they would disappear at 40. And I guess injectables are only one more step down (from so called ‘natural look make-up’)to full on invasive surgery. I suppose what’s also in favour of injectables, as opposed to surgery, is that the cost is more accessible and they don’t involve the risk of going under general anaesthetic to deliver a youthful visage. So, my approach is now ‘never say never’. And more than ever, over 40 as I am, you want to look as good as you can. I haven’t opted for the needle yet, but I have had two efficacious treatments that do enhance youthfulness and general allure – redefining the face but without invasiveness. I’ve had teeth whitening twice before: first with laser and second with a very painful bleaching treatment, neither made much difference to ‘THERE ARE FAR my tooth colour. But now I think I’ve found MORE IMPORTANT a good alternative, which is not only eco ISSUES AT STAKE friendly and biodegradable, but also effective THAN BOTOX FOR and pain free. Dr Anthony Zybutz offers Natural+Tooth Whitening which works using in the meantime I headed to see Debra FEMINISTS - LIKE a 6% slow release hydrogen peroxide formula. Robson-Lawrence, who really is the go-to EQUAL PAY, RAPE It involves two sessions in the dentist’s chair, name in semi-permanent make-up. Her Brow AND MATERNITY one having moulds created and another for Couture treatment creates fine haired life-like an initial whitening, then two weeks of one brows, which save you from pencilling in RIGHTS’ hour treatments at home using a kit. It lasts two years and the results are every day. Debra is expert in drawing brows to suit and frame impressive, I can attest. your face - she then uses a fine needle to insert pigment into Eyebrows can also redefine your face. Stupidly, I shaved mine off in a fit the skin and create the illusion of those perfect arches. of pique last month. I wouldn’t be the first - many women over-pluck, shave Dr Anthony Zybutz, 77 Harley Street, 77harleystreet.co.uk, 0207 5807638 and generally diminish eyebrow hair, and the problem, often, is that it doesn’t Debra Robson-Lawrence, 0845 5050 0805 come back. Personally I would seriously consider an eyebrow transplant, but AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Beauty

88 | aMUSE

Beauty

IN GOOD

HANDS Former Harper’s Bazaar beauty editor, Newby Hands, is now working her magic on e-tailor, feelunique. She talks online make-overs with Beatrice Aiden. And shares a few secrets of her own...

ow they rolled their eyes when Net-a-Porter.com launched. Desig ner clothes sold online that customers could neither touch nor try on. It would never take off. However, the e-tailor is now valued at over £350 million. So it’s no surprise that beauty, fashion’s oft overlooked younger sister, is next for an online make-over from newly re-launched luxury website, feelunique. Offering 540 brands and over 18,000 products, one is spoilt for choice, but will women buy what they can’t touch, smell and sample? Turns out they do already. In their droves. “It’s not the future, it’s here,” explains Newby Hands, the glamorous new

Editorial Director of feelunique, citing UK online beauty sales of £532 million. Yes, we are waking up to the possibilities of online beauty sales quicker than a slap in the face of Clarins Beauty Flash Balm. “The number one reason women buy is down to magazine editorial,” she explains, continuing, “feelunique had an amazing online warehouse but it lacked finesse.” Having first worked on a consultancy basis, she came on board in her current capacity in the spring of this year. Now, she has realised her vision and you can read unbiased editorial in the Beauty All Access section. And then click to buy of course. This editorialisation is a cross between Harper’s Bazaar - where Hands worked for sixteen years and to which she still contributes - and the Daily Mail, where she cut her journalistic teeth. “In this digital age people don’t want to read three thousand words but they will read three hundred,” she says. “I don’t think women are AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Beauty THE NEWBY HANDS SKIN • Cleanse not once but twice. I use The Organic Pharmacy Rose Facial Gel Cleanser (£42.95). I also use the Clarisonic Classic Sonic 1 Skin Cleansing Brush (£150). It has the same technology as a sonic toothbrush but deep cleans the skin. • Save where you can and invest in good products. If you can’t afford a Clarisonic, use a flannel. • For serums I recommend: 2 Lancôme Genifique (£56), 3 Clarins HydraQuench Intensive Serum Bi-Phase (£36), and Serum Repair from 4 Dr. Sebagh (£69, drsebagh.com). • At night I apply an oil over the serums now it’s getting colder: 5 Clarins Blue Orchid Treatment Oil (£26.10) or 6 Aromatherapy Associates Anti-Age Face Oil (£41.50). HAIR • My hair colour is by Josh Wood (joshwoodcolour.com). • I get a Brazilian blow-dry treatment which Zoltan at Comptons in Covent Garden - he can even create a long-lasting Giselle type wave, it doesn’t have to be straight (from £99, comptonhair.co.uk). TAN I use 7 St Tropez Every Day Gradual Tan Medium-Dark (£12) twice a week). Foundation is 8 Dior Hydra Life BB Crème (£41).

PHOTOGRAPHY: BECKY MAYNES

GUIDE TO BEAUTY

4 7

9 5

POWDER Instead of a tinted powder I use 9 Daniel Sandler Invisible Blotting Powder (£19). It makes your skin look like it’s been airbrushed.

LIPSTICK The best nude lipstick is 10 Lancôme Absolu Rouge Absolute 272, Bois de Rose (£21). I searched years for The One and this it! MASCARA Max Factor Masterpiece Mascara is the one I use (£9.99, maxfactor. co.uk) - and I have tried every mascara going - because it delivers long lashes without being cloggy. 90 | AMUSE

DIET The Alternate Day Diet (£9.79, amazon.co.uk) has transformed my body. For two days you eat a maximum of 500 calories and then eat normally for five days. It is very very easy to do and in five weeks I lost six pounds and got very lean and puff free! All available from feelunique unless otherwise stated

Beauty

that bothered about the ingredients, history or the science,” she continues, “but they do want to know if something works. I mean, when I go to buy an iron, no-one tells me how it works, it just works; the beauty industry is sometimes like a dinner bore who talks about themselves the whole evening.” She may be funny and irreverent, but she is also fiercely protective about the industry she patently adores: “Beauty is seen as a women’s industry and is constantly attacked on price,” she says. “Which is strange as men spend a fortune on golf clubs and nobody challenges that!” Recent additions to the site’s roster include Dior, Lancôme, YSL, Clarins and Shiseido, Ali Hewson’s NUDE, and, as of November, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana perfumes. But why would these multinationals collaborate with feelunique rather than sell through their own websites? Because most women don’t buy just one brand. Case in point, the Jersey based company currently exports beauty products worth more than its entire crop of Jersey Royals, and this year, the turnover was up 63% to £26.7m with sales for next estimated to rise 76% to £46.8 million. So who is setting the beauty trends then, these days? “I think one of the huge influencers is The Only Way is Essex,” says Hands. “We may laugh at the characters but they are immaculate with the best foundation and I think they look dolly and gorgeous.” A cursory look around the West End and she’s right on the money: false eyelashes, up-dos, fake-tan, contoured cheekbones and red lipstick abound. Today Hands is dressed in a Maje top, Joseph trousers, boots by Jimmy Choo and is carrying a Givenchy bag. That she ticked the 44-50 age group box for a survey she did on the bus that morning, is as far as she’ll go to revealing her age but anywhere i n t hat br acke t i s pre t t y unbelievable given her whippet slim f igure and taut jaw-line. Divorced, her boyfriend of five years lives in Surrey and she bases herself in Maida Vale during the week. “We don’t live together and that is the secret! He does not need to see me use my Epilator.” Having grown up in Oxford with a biochemistry academic for a father, her background is solidly English. However, life in a university town put her off any ivory tower aspirations and following a job in the music industry where the only thing she learned was how to change a plug (“surprisingly useful”), her first journalism role was on Women’s Own and then Women’s Realm - when it still had a resident vicar on staff. “We used to do weekly make-

overs and if the woman didn’t turn up they would use me. The caption would say something like: ‘Sonya Birkenstall, 48.’” And while someone must have smelled a rat when confronted with a shot of a tall, slim nineteen year-old, it was a great grounding in the workings of a photoshoot. Next came the Daily Mail under the editorship of Sir David English. When he promoted her to Beauty and Style Editor, she asked him what such a role should entail: “I don’t know,” he said, “but you should keep in your mind that you are like a theatre reviewer. There are lots of plays but readers don’t know which to go to. So think like that about beauty, and you can tell women what you think they should buy.” She’s kept that in mind ever since. At Harpers & Queen (the former and ridiculously posh incarnation of Harper’s Bazaar), it was the end of an era: “The man who sat opposite me was great friends with Prince Charles, the girl on my left was having an affair with a Duke and on Thursday afternoons everyone would go off to Harley Street to have an injection in their bottom so they didn’t eat till the following Tuesday.” And while this might be a slight exaggeration, you get the general gist. On the subject of injections, Hands is one of the industry few who has always been candid about ‘what she’s had done’ and describes herself as “low maintenance” but “constant maintenance” - admitting to Botox jabs for the last ten years. And following a trip to see skincare guru, Dr. Sebagh, she’s also swapped her face crea ms for ser ums explaining active ingredients in the former are typically 4-5% while those of a serum can go up to 90 % . She has a “serum wardrobe” from which she mixes a bespoke cocktail every day and night - and if she’s had a late one, a hydrating serum with a shot of vitamin C is just the ticket. Although impressed at her dedication to the art of beauty, I’m relieved to see that Hands is no saint. She’s still a human being - albeit one with exceptionally good skin. She’s also living proof that it’s never too late (a revelation two years ago at a Somerset boot camp prompted her to quit her twenty-a-day smoking habit and replace it with a regime of Pilates and yoga.) With her no nonsense advice at feelunique, she’s on a mission to make us look and feel our best. And, with a new Channel 4 beauty series in the pipeline as well, she won’t stop until we do!

‘when I go to buy an iron, no-one tells me how it works, it just works; the beauty industry is sometimes like a dinner bore who talks about themselves the whole evening’

feelunique.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

Beauty

LIPSTICK SOS

WITH CHANEL AND aMUSE

his is the season to embrace a bold lip, with dark reds and burgundy and wine stains seen all over the AW catwalks. We can’t think of anyone better to advise us than Chanel with their latest Rouge Allure shades. On 9 October, Chanel make-up ambassador and international and celebrity make-up artist, Kay Montano, will be at the Chanel pop-up boutique in Covent Garden along with our beauty editor Arabella Preston, for a day dedicated to helping you find your perfect lip colour. Perhaps you don’t feel your lipstick is flattering. Perhaps you simply fancy a change. Or maybe you’ve never worn a lip colour and feel now is the moment to take the plunge. Whatever your reasons, come along and see us for a special day devoted to Chanel Rouge Allure

and finding your perfect match. We’ll teach you how to apply a lip shade to suit you and give you tips on making the colour last, plus advice on how to make the rest of your make-up complement the look. A consultation costs £25 and is redeemable against any beauty purchase on the day, plus you will also receive an exclusive Chanel beauty gift. The Chanel pop-up boutique at Covent Garden is a space dedicated to beauty, the first of its kind, and is full of treats and temptations for beauty junkies. Come and join us for a day of inspirational beauty. To book your consultation, call Chanel at Covent Garden on 020 7240 2001. 9 October, 11am-8pm AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

ChanelEventsubbed cb.indd 89

20/09/2012 22:37

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NOT IN FRONT OF THE CHILDREN

They stayed together for the sake of the kids but what happens when those kids have flown the nest? A twenty-something Hayley Metcalf watched her parents’ marriage unravel

94 | AMUSE

icture the scene. I’m four years old, sitting on the stairs next to my older brother and sister, watching my parents have a huge row. They’re screaming horrible things at each other; I haven’t been on this earth very long but even I know that these are not nice things to say to someone. Nor are they things you should say in front of kids. I watch, wide-eyed, half aghast and half curious. What is going on? Who’s going to win? And what, on earth, will they say next? I don’t remember exact details, but I know it ends with my mother storming off, slamming the front door so hard on her way out that she breaks the square panel of glass in it. It shatters all over our front path. My dad is furious. “Is she coming back?” I ask. My father, still ranting, doesn’t offer any reassurance. My siblings, I think, are as shocked and frightened as I am and, for a few hours at least, in my four-year-old head, there was a very real possibility that she had gone for good. But my mother did return, later that day, and I knew, somehow, that this was not something I should mention to family friends when they came round. But the rows continued, gathering momentum and weight as the years went by until it took one small thing to kick them off on a monstrous three or four day-long spree of silence, screaming or both. And whilst I became completely accustomed to it, I developed some awareness that this wasn’t normal lovers’ bickering. I could see that these fingerpointing, recurrent battles, although rarely physical, were not symptomatic of a working relationship. Especially since, while the disputes’ content might change according to circumstances, the underlying themes (dissatisfac tion, lack o f r e s p e c t , f u l f i l l m e n t o r common interests) remained the same. Hardly surprising then, that, when my mother announced to my twenty-something self that my father was moving out, I felt a huge sense of relief. Watching two people destroy one another’s self esteem, taking one another to a place where perhaps neither believes themselves capable of loving or being loved by any other, had been emotional torture. This could only be a good thing, I thought, since my mother and father hadn’t truly valued, encouraged or supported one another for years. And while I recognized that it might be hard at first, I felt sure it would ultimately be the best for them. As for me, I just felt a little numb. Emotionally I was tired and confused, but physically I was uncompromised; the split wouldn’t affect my circumstances; as an adult child of separating parents there is no custody battle, no moving house, no tightening of the purse strings because of maintenance payment issues. No real changes at all. Except that, in my naivety, I hadn’t considered the time it might

take for them to truly let go of one another and that, even if the reality of a parental separation didn’t hurt, the ramifications could still sting. I was totally unprepared for the expectations placed on me; surely, as an adult, I could and would support and listen to them? That much I tried to do. But relaying indirect messages between them and fielding questions about the other’s well-being and exact whereabouts? There, it was harder to oblige. I had also assumed that the split would mean I’d only see my parents separately (fine by me). I didn’t imagine that they might still wish to see us all together and, as such, that new jealousies and rivalries might come about. They wanted to be able to spend Christmas together with us children, they insisted, a few months after they had split. Neither of them wanted to feel ‘left out’ while the other enjoyed turkey with the kids. So we agreed, gritting our teeth and hoping for peace. The end result? An agonizing lunch for all of us which ended, inevitably after Champagne, wine and more Champagne, in tears and shouting between parents who, quite clearly, just weren’t ready to be in close proximity to one another yet. Difficult for us; agonising for them. But I can’t help wondering sometimes, had I known that the to-ing and fro-ing (oh yes, they tried to get back together a few times) would last nearly five years, would I have been so relieved at the pronouncement that they were separating? And, had I been astute and humble enough to see that my opinion made absolutely no difference whatsoever to their actions, would I have spent hours and hours listening and advising whilst one parent berated and yearned for the other in equal measure? It is a st upid question of course. We do what we do, and at the time we think it’s the best thing. And, as time progresses, it tends not to matter so much anyway. Because, regardless of my love and support (or lack of either), my parents have just got on with it. Facing my own romantic challenges myself has aged and mellowed me. It has helped me to empathise rather than criticize, and it has broadened my view. I’ve stopped trying to make my parents think like me and started to imagine how they might be feeling and what they might struggle with and need. I look at them now and my main emotion is love. I’m grateful too for the gifts they gave me growing up, gifts like affection, financial stability, encouragement, ambition, and sociability. It’s been five years now since the beginning of the end and the truth is that, whether they like it or not, time has done its thing and made clear the way things ought to be. My father seems happy with someone else and my mother seems happy enough to live alone. Family time is more enjoyable than it has been for two decades. Recently when we gathered together, I realized that I was actually enjoying myself, comforted by the familiarity of having both parents there. The truth is that they’re just not taking so many shots at one another, maybe because they are happier – certainly because they spend less time together – or maybe just because they’re older, wiser and more accepting of what is.

‘Watching two people destroy one another’s self esteem had been emotional torture’

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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aMUSE A BROAD

Compiled by SUE RYAN

The life (sub) Aquatic

Underwater restaurants are so last season, so we’ll raise you the opening of underwater nightclub, Subsix (below left) at Per Aquum’s Niyama hotel in The Maldives. A staircase off its restaurant, Edge, takes guests six metres below the surface of the Indian Ocean to a breathtaking underwater world complete with floor to ceiling windows revealing manta rays, parrot fish and all manner of exotic marine life. And with super-producer, DJ Poet, consulting on the 2 November launch, it’s sure to make an enormous splash. From £497.84 per night, niyama.com, +960 676 2828

AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

aMUSE

abroad by SUE RYAN

YOUR INNER SELF

The Shanti Maurice, set on Mauritius’ southern tip, is hosting a series of wellness and beauty breaks - it has the island’s largest spa after all! From 19 November guests can pamper their inner selves on week-long retreats full of yoga, reiki and an ‘inner engineering’ programme devised by spiritual guru Sadhuru Jaggi Vasudev. Or if it’s your outer self that requires a make-over, the Bobbi Brown make-up retreat in December could be just the thing. From £2,036 pp including up to eight hours of daily sessions, shantimaurice.com

TASTE OF THE ALGARVE

Just in time for some winter sun, Conrad Algarve opened last month in the Ria Formasa National Park in Quinta do Lago. We’re talking delicious beaches and golf galore, but best of all is Michelinstarred chef Heinz Beck’s eatery Gusto, opening for business in November. At his La Pergola restaurant in Rome reservations must be made three months in advance, so get in early and enjoy his Liquorice Flavoured Shoulder of Iberian Suckling Pig and Apricot Soup with Lemon Verbena and Yoghurt Ice Cream. Conrad Algarve, from €164 per night, based on two sharing and including bed and breakfast, conradalgarve.com 98 | AMUSE

aMUSE

abroad by SUE RYAN

GLAMOUR IN THE ALPS

AN EYE FOR STYLE

From the outside it still looks like its former incarnation (the imposing 19th century West of England Eye Hospital), but inside, the brand new Magdalen Chapter in Exeter is a paean to modernity, where guests are given complimentary iPads for the duration of their stay. There’s also a free mini bar in each of the 59 rooms. We loved the spa with its REN treatments, (set in the former car park). The restaurant food too, under head chef Ben Bulger, is to die for. All in all, the perfect weekend getaway. The Magdalen Chapter, from £150 per night including breakfast, chapterhotels.com

The first new five star hotel in Gstaad for a hundred years opens its doors on 1 December. The Alpina Gstaad stands directly opposite the iconic Palace Hotel and promises to be just as stunning. Built with the mega rich in mind, each of the 56 rooms are larger than the average London pied de terre, with plenty of cupboard space for all your furs, designer frocks and ski gear. The renowned Japanese restaurant MEGU has set

up its first European outpost there too, and Six Senses will run the spa. The décor is traditional alpine with reclaimed wood and quirky cow-bell lights. It is also ultra modern with rain showers in the bathroom and even nail dryers “ just what we need in the mountains,” says MD Niklaus Leuenberger. And hey, who are we to disagree? Book now to avoid disappoinment From £566 per night, thealpinagstaad.ch

FACIAL FANTASTIC

If you crave a spa break, without jetting off to far-off lands, you’ll be pleased to know you can enjoy the QMS Medicosmetics skincare treatment, without leaving the capital. Developed by Dr Erich Schulte, formerly a surgeon in the trauma unit in the reconstructive plastic surgery department at Gottingen University, Germany, the treatments contain the highest levels of collagen on the market. Spend two minutes with the man and you will be converted. It’s all so logical and just like having a facelift without surgery. QMS Medicosmetics spa, price for personalised treatments on request, products also sold in Liberty, qmsmedicosmetics.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

SoUk UP THE SUn

Nick Cox discovers a funky but rather temperate medina in Marrakech. He also has his own pool, butler and a roof that opens at the flick of a switch Forget those rambling riads, Marrakech has started to bring out the big guns and one of the very best is The Royal Mansour. Hidden behind adobe walls, this pleasure palace is a mini medina within the city’s actual medina and it’s grand, flamboyant and luxurious. Those lucky enough to venture beyond its imperial bronze gates will discover 53 individual three storey riads which manage to elevate Moroccan living to an art form - more than 1500 artisans were employed to create its breathtaking zellij-tiled walls, cedar wood fretwork and stained glass windows. What’s more, rumour has it that when it was been built, if one single tile was out of place, the whole wall will be taken down. That’s one serious eye for perfection! If it all gets too much (and it won’t) there’s also plenty of greenery through which to meander and rest your eyes. The hotel is designed like an old Moroccan city so you can wander its pathways that wind through pond filled, scented gardens and open onto squares filled with palms, lemon and orange trees. Most likely, though, you will do as I did and simply stay at home! Why not? Each riad (small guest palace) has both a cool fountain filled courtyard in which to relax, plus a rooftop garden with a pool and sundeck. Midnight dip anyone? Delicious food is served by your own personal white gloved butler who is both attentive and discrete. So although there are two faultless fi ne dining restaurants – one French and one Moroccan - on site, nothing can come close to a magical feast involving beef tagine laid out in front of your own open fireplace. This is about the only time you’ll see your butler though; there’s a network of subterranean tunnels for the staff, who drive around in buggies beneath your feet like very attentive moles! The Mansour is also reassuringly techie, and old world comfort and standards of service meet the new millennium in the shape of iPhone chargers concealed in the arms of leather wing chairs. And while you could simply head outside to stargaze, you’ll also find an electronically opening roof in the main central building, which slides back to reveal the constellations for your viewing pleasure. One-bedroom riad from £1,306 per night, royalmansour.ma

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A BIG FISH IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

Chris Sullivan falls hook, line and sinker for the charms of the Maldives, swims with hawksbill turtles and gets up close and personal with a whale shark We’ve all read about the Maldives. We’ve all seen pictures of the blindingly white sand and the milky turquoise ocean. Yet nothing could, would or can prepare one for the tranquility and the sheer natural beauty of this sublime collection of atolls that, some 500 miles off the coast of Sri Lanka, pepper the Indian Ocean. Indeed, as myself, my wife and seven-year-old

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son stepped off the catamaran onto that ridiculously white sand of Velassaru, my every concern and anxiety simply vanished. In truth, it was almost impossible to grasp that just 12 hours previously we were hailing a taxi in the cold, grey wet of London. It felt as if we had been beamed down, Star Trek style, to a perfect planet.

Our minimalist Asian style beach bungalow was nestled behind a clump of Schiaparelli pink bougainvillea and, not five metres from an ocean that was as clear as San Pellegrino and just on the right side of tepid. Natural attributes aside, a big important consideration of any vacation is the cuisine. Gastronomy at Velassaru is presided over by executive chef, Frenchman, Cedric Dambros (he studied under the three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse!) and involves light lunches of fresh fish tempura and dinners at one of three different a la carte restaurants: Tepanyaki, Elysian and Sand - proffering Japanese to exemplary grilled seafood. Even though there are bars and entertainment, it’s not party central. But you don’t go the Maldives for that. It’s early to bed and early to rise after a delicious nine hours of sleep serenaded by the gentle breaking of waves. Days are made for spa treatments and chilling on the beach - there’s a kids’ club too and as the sea is only about three feet deep, my son overcame his fear of

water, mastered snorkelling and spent all and every day happy as a sand-boy swimming back and forth chasing tropical fish. I, on the other hand, scuba dived daily - chaperoned by a cheeky little hawksbill turtle, which drifted along with me for a good 15 minutes almost close enough to hold my hand. I also caught the Holy Grail of scuba sightings when a whale shark (world’s largest fish and about as big as a double decker bus) nonchalantly sashayed past me. At night, we simply lay on the beach and stared at a sky - the stars appearing so, so close it felt as if you as if you could pull one down and use it as a table lamp. The word magical is much used and abused but, for once, it was thoroughly appropriate. I could almost see why some folk believe in God. 7 nights with breakfast in a deluxe bungalow at the 5-star Velassaru, Maldives, including flights with British Airways, from £1,633 pp, based on two sharing. To book please quote: IO0001. Kuoni (01306 747008, kuoni.co.uk)

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CECIL BEATON THEATRE OF WAR

A MAJOR EXHIBITION OF CECIL BEATON’S WARTIME PHOTOGRAPHY 1939–45 6 SEPTEMBER 2012 – 1 JANUARY 2013

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LAMBETH NORTH, WATERLOO, ELEPHANT AND CASTLE

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at home

LIGHT UP YOUR LIFE ILLUMINATING LUMEN

Clean-cut chic and original twists - EDC London and sister company Minotti are really spoiling us this season with their new collections, ready now to completely brighten your home with Italian elegance. Boasting various exclusive designers between them, we particularly like the Massimo Castagna Henge collection featuring intriguing pieces that are minimal yet luxurious. Minotti and EDC London, edclondon.com, minottilondon.com

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL

WORDS: POLLY GLASS

A mirror is guaranteed to open up a room and make it look bigger (we can’t be held responsible if it does the same for your bottom). Inspired by Egyptian antiquity, nature and mythology, this stunning set from Cox London is part of its latest bespoke collection of lighting and furniture and effortlessly blends quality and character. Cox London, coxlondon.com

DESIGNS ON THE HOME

Chic and knowledgeable, with a serious eye for beautiful things, art consultant Arianne Levene means business. With experience at Sotheby’s and a nomination for Spear’s Art Adviser of the Year under her belt, she’s a mine of information when it comes to offering advice on creating luxurious spaces WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF THE PERFECT INTERIOR?

I believe in the energy of a home, some places just have a great vibe. It is important to have natural light and areas of space. These are essential to a good interior. Of course, without art on the walls, no interior is complete. There must be a personal touch. TELL US HOW YOU PUT THE LOOK OF YOUR OWN HOME TOGETHER?

My design choices are accidental. I mix objects of value and sentiment that I’ve inherited with pieces I collect on my travels. Whilst I love design, I also demand practicality. My mother was an antiques dealer, so I have an eclectic mix of objects at home; from 19th century mahogany butler’s trays to Afghan war rugs from Pakistan and Iran. My husband is Swedish, so Scandinavian design is becoming a regular feature too. WHICH DESIGNERS DO YOU ADMIRE?

I really admire what Axel Vervoordt does with spaces.

TOP TIPS FOR BUYING ART:

FLOORED!

Cutting-edge contemporary artists and designers, plus a loom in a 19th century Cairo palace, equals ravishing rugs. Handknotted ones, oh yes. So wave goodbye to predictable patterned creations (the kind you feel you’ve seen 100 times before, mostly in Ikea) and go check out these one-offs from the up-and-coming arty likes of Si Scott, Natasha Law (Jude’s sis) and others. Artisan techniques meet modern cool - a very good thing, we reckon. Foundation ‘Rug Addicts’, Dray Walk Gallery, Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, 2 - 6 November, foundationrugs.co.uk

• Buy art you love, and take your time when selecting it. Look for artists who are

challenging themselves, whose work you will not tire of. • Don’t be afraid to mix periods and genres. Just look for objects of exceptional quality. • Don’t fear emerging markets. Look beyond Europe and the US for contemporary art. Fascinating artists are emerging from the Middle Eastern and Asian scene. • Always ask questions. When you buy a work, find out more about the artist. What shows have they had? Are the works in any publications and reviews? Have they sold at auction, and if so, how does the price of your work compare? • Subscribe to art publications. The Art Newspaper is the most important one; there are also magazines such as Art & Auction and Modern Painters. WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU?

I’m co-curating an exhibition in Paris with my business partner Eglantine de Ganay. It focuses on spirituality in contemporary Middle Eastern and Asian Art. Lost in Paradise is curated by A&E Projects and will be at Loft Sévigné Paris from 14 - 25 November 2012, newartworld.co.uk/aandeprojects

FLYING HIGH

Have you heard about the BIRD? We can’t help but smile when we see it. The 1959 design from Kristian Vedel has been brought to life by ARCHITECTMADE - purveyors of simple, kooky and beautifully designed fifties and sixties ornamentals. The perfect humoured but oddly stylish addition to any room. BIRD, £34 - £59, ARCHITECTMADE, architectmade.com

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live in Hampstead with my husband Darius and our two children Tara, 6, and Vita, 7 – it’s a great place to have a family, with the schools, the Heath, the shops and the local characters. They make it a unique and treasured part of London, whilst being no distance at all from the centre of town, and my parents! Living in London can often feel overwhelming and I think of Hampstead as a little retreat - it feels like my own little village in the middle of such a massive city. There’s a feel of community and trust, and I love supporting local businesses. For example, my builder, Sean McGrath, is a childhood friend, my dry cleaner knows my name and my local coffee shop has my coffee ready each morning (black americano, no sugar, no messing around!). I like my home to have a calming atmosphere with little clutter; clear surfaces and breezy space so there’s room to breathe and it’s easy to maintain. It’s a space for family, rest and play - I try, as much as possible to keep work separate, not always easy when you run your own business. And having two small children means real ‘downtime’ is limited, but when possible I love to just lie on the sofa, watch a film (I really enjoyed The Big Blue and Harold and Maud) or read a book - I’ve started Alan Hollinghurst’s The Stranger’s Child and I loved Caitlin Moran’s How To Be A Woman. I take inspiration from the things around me, so have worked hard to

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hand-pick beautiful objects and pieces of art. I love muted tones with minimal pattern - graphic and bold rather than chintzy or busy. I find this much more soothing than the chaos of elaborate prints. I also read magazines particularly Elle Deco and used to pour over my parents’ World of Interiors growing up. I would ultimately like to have a huge architecturally designed dream home full of antiques to give each piece the space that it deserves. Picasso, and the whole Cubist movement, is a personal favourite. I also find surrealism appealing - hence the La

PHOTOGRAPHY: DIETER BRANDENBURG

Her jewellery outlet is Keira Knightley and Alison Goldfrapp’s go-to for stylish trinkets. Polly Glass goes through the keyhole with founder Nathalie Kabiri

KIRAZ CREWEL WORK HANDMADE CUSHION, £119, COUVERTURE AT COUVERTUREANDTHEGARBSTORE.COM

GET THE LOOK… GEORGINA CREWEL WORK HANDMADE CUSHION, £149, COUVERTURE AT COUVERTUREANDTHEGARBSTORE.COM

METAL STOOLS, £79 EACH, PLUMO.COM

HANS WEGNER CIGAR CHAIRS, £2495, THEMODERNWAREHOUSE.COM

LA VOLIERE TABLE LAMP, £450, CONRANSHOP.CO.UK

WHITE ROPE NECKLACE, £420, KABIRI.CO.UK

Voliere bird lamp from the Conran Shop. My contact with artist friends from my Goldsmiths days allows me to seek out great work from emerging artists directly - Alasdair Duncan is a definite current favourite. Alongside the art, I also display pictures of my children as babies; they seem to change each day so I really treasure these. Additionally, you’ll find jewellery from Valentina Brugnatelli (a new designer exclusive to Kabiri) who is definitely one to watch. Pieces that I’m not wearing, I’ll use as decorative objects as they’re far too beautiful to be locked in a jewellery box. Rather more unexpected items you’ll find in my home are my daughter Vita’s red play kitchen and lots of cheap jewellery from Accessorise; Vita loves it. I think we have a budding jewellery designer in our midst. Visit the new Kabiri store at 182 Kings Road, Chelsea, SW3 5XP. Nathalie’s own jewellery collection, Dressed, is available now through, kabiri.co.uk

HARLEQUIN GREEN (HAND KNOTTED TIBETAN WOOL RUG), £1,529, BY JONATHAN ADLER FOR THE RUG COMPANY therugcompany.com ARNE VODDER TEAK SIDEBOARD, £2,495, THEMODERNWAREHOUSE.COM

CHARLIE (HAND KNOTTED TIBETAN WOOL RUG), £1,529, BY JONATHAN ADLER FOR THE RUG COMPANY, therugcompany.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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restaurant news by LYDIA SLATER

OPIUM DEN Need a break from your regular greasy Chinese?

Look this way for an altogether hipper option, from soon-to-be hotspot Opium. A cool, but genuinely very appealing hub of oriental eclecticism, high-end cocktails and divine dimsum (paired with said cocktails, putting luxury twists on Chinatown staples) - we’re salivating just at the thought of it. Go for a trendy midweek treat, or a Friday night splash-out. Opium Cocktail and Dim Sum Parlour opens 12 November 2012 at 15-16 Gerrard Street, opiumchinatown.com

DYING FOR A MEXICAN Forget the childish pranks of Hallowe’en and embrace the Day of the Dead instead with Mexican sensation Wahaca, which is partying for over four days at the Old Vic Tunnels with a fiesta of music, food, art and film (31 October - 3 November, oldvictunnels.com, 0844 871 7628). Or celebrate at home with signature deconstructed guacamole from Shoreditch’s new Death By Burrito: INGREDIENTS: Avocado, coriander, lime, crème fraiche, confit cherry tomatoes, ricotta, red onions pomegranate, blue corn tortillas, white wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, thyme Halve the cherry tomatoes and slow roast - with a few sprigs of thyme, crushed garlic, a sprinkle of sugar and a splash of olive oil - for a few hours at 70 degrees. Allow to cool down. Blend the avocado, coriander, juice from the lime and a small quantity of crème fraiche into a smooth mousse-like consistency. Thinly slice the red onion and heat in a mix of sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, water and sugar, set aside and refrigerate when cool. Spoon your avocado mousse into a bowl, top with the confit tomato and crumbled ricotta; place the pickled red onion on top with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds. Tear the tortillas into triangles and deep fry in hot oil until lightly golden and crispy, sprinkle with salt and serve warm with the guacamole. deathbyburrito.com

BRIT SPICE The British have taken Indian

food to their hearts; now the Indians are returning the compliment. Karam Sethi, head chef of newly Michelinstarred Trishna is on a mission to resurrect ‘forgotten British foods.’ Along with food writer Ravinder Bhogal, aka the ‘new Fanny Cradock’, he has designed a menu combining British dishes with Indian techniques. Stand by for Bath chaps with turnip saag, and scrag end of lamb Haleem. Trishna London, 15 - 17 Blandford St, W1U 3DG, 19 and 20 November, £47.50, 0207 935 5624, trishnalondon.com 108 | AMUSE

RAPID REVIEW Chrysan

What? A new Japanese restaurant set up by the Hakkasan group in partnership with Michelinstarred Kyoto chef Yoshihiro Murata. Where? Don’t expect Hakkasan-style frolics: this is a restrained, formal affair, situated near Liverpool Street station. Why? For the Japanese equivalent of the tasting menu: kaiseki cuisine. Intense mushroom cappuccino, lip-smacking parsnip and

duck foie gras with truffle soup, melting sushi… Why not? The cauliflower panna cotta tastes as odd as it sounds How much? Kaiseki tasting menu, £85 a head Chrysan, 1 Snowden Street, Broadgate West, EC2A 2DQ, 020 3657 4777, chrysan.co.uk

GET A PISCO THE ACTION London’s Latin American phase comes of age with

the opening this month of Coya in Mayfair. Don’t expect cheap and cheerful street food: housed in a Georgian building, Coya has a dedicated Pisco bar, private members’ area and a chef (Sanjay Dwivedi) who used to work at Le Caprice and the Ivy. Coya, 118 Piccadilly, W1J 7NW, coyarestaurant.com

food news

by LYDIA SLATER

TWO WAYS WITH MACARONS DESSERTS GO DIY

Keen to try your own hand at macaron-making? OhLaLa has combined two of our favourite treats in its Macaron and Martini Masterclass. The small classes (max 16 participants) are held on a Saturday afternoon in stylish London venues like Zuma. Learn the secrets of ‘macaronage’, whip up your own confections, then make chocolate and lychee martinis with the help of an expert mixologist. Don’t expect to drive home. You have been warned. It costs £80, though there’s also a cheaper Macaron and Tea masterclass for non-drinkers. ohlala-macarons.com

HAUTE PATISSERIE

“When I work on one particular taste, I try to make it my perception of the best,” Pierre Hermé tells aMUSE when we visit his Parisian HQ. Many Brits know him as the macaron king but Pierre is an all-round pastry deity. From the refreshing textures in his ‘chou infinitement citron’ to the silky indulgence of the tarte au chocolat we sampled (it’s a tough job but someone had to do it) we could have died and gone to Heaven in a pastry basket. This month, Pierre’s flavour ‘fetish’ is ‘mogador’, a partnership of passionfruit and chocolate. Or try the divine November offering from his Jardin collection (macaron Jardin D’Antan, violet and aniseed, pictured). Truly stylish treats. Pierre Hermé Paris, Mogador fetish until 9 December from London macaron and chocolate boutiques (Selfridges and 13 Lowndes St), fresh pastries available for collection or delivery in Paris, for more information on all products visit pierreherme.com

YES CHEF!

Michelin-starred cooking starts with the best ingredients. New online gourmet food shop Farmison sources its supplies from the same leading farms and producers used by the likes of Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. It has a variety of imaginative meat, veg and cheese hampers already put together, or you can opt to create your own. From £14.95 for The Easy All You Need Supper For Two farmison.com

PROPERLY PICKLED Channel your inner domestic goddess with Riverford’s new Cucumber Pickle

Preserve Kit. Containing everything you need to make six jars of organic cucumber pickle it’s a simple but strangely satisfying process. The results - if you can bear to give them away - make perfect Christmas presents. The kit costs £13.45 and can be delivered to your door. riverford.co.uk

GASTRO FIREWORKS Remember remember the fifth of November… or just phone Melrose & Morgan. The popular North London deli can deliver a readyprepared Bonfire Night kit, including home-made pork ribs, autumn slaw with red cabbage, mac & cheese, butterbean hotpot, sweetcorn fritters, treacle tart and six bottles of pale ale to warm the cockles while you ooh and aah. Fireworks not included. Feeds six, £100, melroseandmorgan.com

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WILD MUSHROOMS & BRIOCHE serves four Now the nights are drawing in, it’s the perfect time to take advantage of winter’s little luxuries. Mushrooms are starting to pop up everywhere; porcini and girolles are especially nice at this time of year. One of my favourite ways to serve them is on toast - simply pan-fried in foaming butter. To make this even naughtier I sometimes have them on toasted brioche. • 4 slices brioche • 300g wild mushrooms • 2 tbsp olive oil • 25g butter • 2 cloves garlic • 1/2 lemon • A pinch of salt • 3 sprigs flat leaf parsley 1 Clean and roughly slice any larger mushrooms, keeping them nice and chunky. Put the olive oil in a large pan on a medium to high heat. Once the pan is hot add the mushrooms, keeping an eye on them to make sure they don’t burn. 2 While the mushrooms are cooking, thinly slice the garlic and roughly chop the parsley. Add the garlic and the butter to the pan and lower the heat. 3 When the butter begins to foam, squeeze a little lemon juice into the pan along with a pinch of salt and the roughly-chopped parsley. Stir together gently with a wooden spoon. 4 Toast the brioche until golden. Generously smear butter over the cut side and spoon the mushrooms over the top to serve. 110 | AMUSE

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FIFTEENMINUTE

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Two courses in a quarter of an hour? No problem for superchef Florence Knight

saucepan or tatin tin and scatter over the sugar. 2 Peel, quarter and core the pears evenly, lay them on a plate and place in the fridge until ready to use. This helps to draw out some of the moisture - any discolouring will be hidden by the caramel later. 3 Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a pound coin and set aside to chill. 4 Press the pears firmly into the butter and sugar mixture and place the pan over a medium to high heat. The sugar and butter will melt and bubble into a caramel. Very gently swirl the pan and cook until the pears soften. 5 Take the pastry and drape over the pan, tucking the edges inside, wrapping the pears tightly. Pierce with a sharp knife a few times and bake in the oven for ten minutes until the pastry has risen and is golden and crisp. 6 Leave to cool for a few minutes and then turn out onto a large serving plate, so that the pastry layer becomes the base, being careful not to spill any excess juice. Serve with a dollop of crusty clotted cream.

PEAR TATIN & CLOTTED CREAM serves four

There’s nothing better than a tub of clotted cream with its buttery crust. Dolloped over warm, caramelised pear and crisp pastry, it is pure indulgence. • 5 large Conference pears – slightly under-ripe are best • 75g golden caster sugar • 75g butter at room temperature • 300g all butter (bought) puff pastry • 227g tub of clotted cream 1 Heat the oven to 200 ºC and smear an even layer of butter into an oven-proof

MARC MILLON’S TOP PICKS

WITH MUSHROOMS/ BRIOCHE Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja Blanco 2011 (Waitrose £9.59) The flavours of lightly toasted oak and creamy, soft fruit of the Viura make this a sublime partner to the earthy tones of wild mushrooms on toasted brioche.

WITH PEAR TATIN Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, Le Rouannières 2009 (50cl; Wine Society £14.95) This gorgeous, honeyed dessert wine from the Loire has sweetness and an invigorating underlying acidity that comes from the Chenin Blanc grape. It’s more than able to stand up to the rich pear tatin, even served with a dollop of clotted cream!

Guest writer Marc Millon is an award-winning wine, food and travel author, vino.co.uk

THIS PAGE, LILY JAMES WEARS: DRESS £389 BY DIANE VON FURSTENBURG 0207499 0886; ANNA SKELLERN WEARS: JACKET £695 AND SKIRT £450 BOTH BY TEMPERLEY (TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM); OONA CHAPLIN WEARS: BLACK JACQUARD MACRO CHINE LONG SLEEVED DRESS, £1, 530 BY GUCCI (GUCCI.COM), DAMBALLAH EARRINGS IN SILVER, £204, LEGBA RING, £110, BOTH BY LEE RENEE (LEERENEE.CO.UK),, SHEILA RING, £122 BY SWAROVSKI (SWAROVSKI.COM)

(from page 45) revolutionary thing, but in so many cases it is.” Cue Parade’s End, harking back to those buttoned up Edwardian English values. Sobre times, though Skellern may have found a fellow comedian in co-star, Benedict Cumberbatch: “Benedict’s wonderful, such a brilliant comedian though his character in Parade’s End is definitely not comedic. He’s a real gentleman, a very talented person, and genuinely lovely to be around,” she smiles dreamily. She also bonded with Rebecca Hall: “You rarely meet an actress on set and think ‘you’re just like my friends’. Her mother was an opera singer so we had a fun singing in the make-up trailer.” Illustrious company, but for Anna one of the real kicks was working with her literary idol Tom Stoppard. “Tom is a genius, and very involved. He is so sexy – an older man, very tall and has this extraordinary presence and this very languorous deep voice, very sonorous. You always know anyone at the top of their field, because they often have a real humility about them.” It’s all so fabulous, one may be taken aback on hearing that Anna moonlights as a yoga teacher. And has a penchant for adrenalinefuelled sports. On a recent trip to Alaska with a friend, they tried ‘glaciating’. “You basically toboggan on your bum all the way down these hills and ravines, praying to god there’s not a huge rock. I was screaming quite a bit. It was better than any theme park or anything like that!” The ravishing screen siren, the comic turn, the ardent feminist, the Bear Grylls style adventurer - what does this shape-shifter do to wind down? “Relax with a Château Margaux in the sun with a really good book and someone waving a palm leaf.” She holds the ‘dahhling-I’m-so-grand’ persona a moment. Then she laughs. “I’m kidding! No, just a bit of quiet somewhere beautiful with my family and friends. Here in London is great.” Anna stars in Gambit, out in UK cinemas on 21 November

(from page 51) building something that you want to keep building until you’re holding hands in your nineties, that’ll include suffering, and sometimes straying from the marital bed is a part of it.” “ I don’t t h i n k a du lte r y i s historica lly as important as we now make it out to be. It’s only been scandalous since the Seventies when divorce became acceptable. Before that everyone had affairs! People are ruining wonderful relationships because some guy got drunk and kissed another girl.” She’s certainly a wise head on young shoulders and her heroines include Naomi Klein (for her brain), alongide Juliette Binoche, Charlotte Gainsbourg, poet Wendy Cope and then her mum for her sense of humour and ability to not take herself too seriously. “It’s the first thing I respect in people, when they don’t take

themselves seriously but they do take what they do seriously.” For her own part, Chaplin utterly adores what she does. But if it were all to end tomorrow? “It will be an opportunity for me to do something else rather than the end of my dreams. It’s been a dream as it stands so I’ll just be happy that it’s worked a little bit!” I’m not sure how serious she is when she mentions living by a beach breeding and eating pigs but that’s the thing about Chaplin, you wouldn’t quite want to rule it out either. The Hour, series 2, airs on BBC Two in November, Game Of Thrones, series 3, airs in 2013

(from page 53) cassettes were still the thing - tonnes of tapes, of all her favourite music,” she remembers. “So a big memory is sitting in the car, listening to those songs. Singing was something I always loved to do, and I think music is the most expressive, beautiful art form, though I’m an actor.” Success is sweet, but she concedes that the auditioning aspect - and uncertainty involved - is still a beast to contend with: “even last week I auditioned for about three things that would have been dream roles, and then you don’t get them and it’s hard. I get very seduced by things quickly.” So, what is her dream role? “I guess I just wanna be Ryan Gosling’s lover,” she laughs. Ryan, if you’re reading, you know who to call... Lily stars in the Christmas episode of Downton Abbey, Christmas Day, 9pm on ITV1. Also catch her in The Seagull at the Southwark Playhouse, 8 November - 1 December 2012 AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |

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Alice Temperley

Our favourite English eccentric is loved by the Duchess of Cambridge and Florence Welch in equal measure. But what rocks the Temperley world?

Casket The Becket A V& e th at

rley Left: Tempe 12; London AW below: Uma Thurman

my best smocked dress and duffle coat at the age of about ten – watching my grandfather do a war parade in his uniform with his medals. Most exciting thing about the British high street? Its diversity and also how well made some of the brands are. It’s also good for an instant fi x and fantastic for kids. Last thing that made you laugh? My four-year-old son makes me laugh out loud all the time by saying the most ridiculously sweet and innocent things. What advice would you give your 16-year-old self? If you don’t know what you want to do, try to do as many internships as possible. I did two and the one I did at 16 probably shaped my love of textiles and details. Who would play you in the film of your life and who would direct? Tim Walker to direct and a confused fairy from my dreams to play me. Or Uma Thurman directed by Pedro Almodóvar – that’s my fantasy. What would you do with Battersea Power Station? Move in and have a whopping green house with huge trees in the middle. Who would you like to be stuck on a rush hour tube train with? Leonardo di Caprio. Ummhummm. Temperley London, new flagship store on 27 Bruton Street, Mayfair, opens beginning of December, temperleylondon.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: V&A IMAGES, SHARON MOLLERUS, RD. PHOTOGRAPHY

Which Londoner do you admire most? Camila Batmanghelidjh. Her work for children in London is incredible. I have enormous respect for people who devote their lives to helping others. Where do you go to drink? The Cow or Groucho’s – I like dirty Martinis right now - or at home around my kitchen table for a good bottle of red. Where do you go to think? I wander around the markets in East and West London very early on Fridays or Saturdays or visit the V&A and the British Museum during quiet hours. Where do you go to feast your soul? The plains of Africa. I am planning a visit to a friend’s elephant reserve with my son sometime next year and am also about to do a photographic trip with my sister to Fez in Morocco for Oxfam. Favourite London hotel? The Portobello Hotel has a lot of memories and I like the darkness of Blakes in South Kensington. Favourite work of art in a London gallery? I currently love anything by Tamara de Lempicka and would love to see a London exhibition of her work. Name three shops you can’t resist? Les Couilles Du Chien on Golbourne Road and Alfies Antique Market on Edgware Road as there’s lots to look at under one roof. Last luxury you treated yourself to? A small black Lanvin handbag – perfect. What was your first memory of London? Standing outside Buckingham Palace in

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