ISSUE 01 may 2012
Stella McCartney’s Olympic ambitions
Heavenly bodies
Meet the king of tanning
The accessories issue:
Bags
of the season
steal
gwynEth’s stylE
Plus:
David Koma / Rowle y Leigh / Kelly Hoppen / Al annah Weston & Sam Cam’s favourite designer
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Contents M AY 2 012 Norah Jones (left); a riyadh in Fez (above); Dries Van Noten SS12 (right); Madeleine patent leather duffle bag, £1,370, Chloé (net-a-porter. com) (below)
Features Regulars 6
AMUSE REVIEWS All the capital’s finest fashion, art, film, music, restaurants, books and shows
19
OBJECT OF DESIRE Cartier has it nailed with its Le Clou ring
21
Columnists
26
BRINGING UP BABY Sadie Frost reflects on her extraordinary childhood
34
HOW THE WESTON WON Welcome to the world of Alannah Weston
40
STELLA McCARTNEY On top-heavy weightlifters, Team GB and dressing to win
44
HAVE YOU MET MISS JONES? Norah Jones on love, loss and music
31
SADIE & IRIS Our new mother & daughter columnists, Sadie Frost & Iris Law
THE FAST FASHION FIX David Koma on Thierry Mugler, tattoos and home cooking
75
A MA N ABOUT TOWN Nick Cox raises a glass to the death of the hoody
54
AVENUE 32 The powers behind the new online shopping sensation
50
MY TOP SHOP Street style with DJ duo Jade Williams and Zara Martin
77
UNNATURAL BEAUTY Bethan Cole gets lippy
89
THE REAL BETTY DRAPER Rebecca Fraser sees an ugly reflection of her mother
94
TRAVEL • Lake Geneva’s Beau Rivage Palace Hotel • Glamping in the Serengeti National Park • News: from baby banditos in Mexico to food for gamblers in Las Vegas
84
THE SUN KING Meet James Read, bronzer to the stars
104
INTERIORS • At home with designer Kelly Hoppen • News: New York’s interiors guru Jonathan Adler hits town
110
THE 15-MINUTE MEAL Salmon and steak by Rowley Leigh
112
THIS MONTH’S MUSE Samantha Cameron’s favourite designer, Alessandra Rich
Fashion & Beauty 66
ACCESSORIES SPECIAL: HA NDBAGS The most delicious arm candy
68
TRENDS 20-something: unleash your inner flapper Petal power: fashion’s coming up roses Plastic fantastic: manmade chic Time to fold: it’s in the pleats
79
BEAUTY Easy-to-wear black eye-liner • fall in love with lavender • new quick-fix serums
On the cover 60 GWYNETH PALTROW Actress,
mother and handbag addict
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EDITOR’S
letter
LAUREN COCHRANE
Lauren Cochrane is a style and fashion journalist, writing for i-D, Vogue, The Financial Times and Wallpaper*. In the launch issue of aMuse she talks to the women giving Net-à-Porter a run for its money. My Muse: ‘Grace Jones – I particularly love the early 80s Jean-Paul Goude images of her. They’re still so powerful, even today.’
T
his is a first for London: a monthly glossy that’s absolutely free. Inside it, we will present you with the most talented, beautiful and inspirational women the capital has to offer. Cover star Gwyneth Paltrow reveals her style tips on successful dressing, whether she’s gracing the red carpet or the Hampstead school run. Alongside, her good friend Stella McCartney gives a fashionable fanfare to this summer’s Olympics season – even the most die-hard Olympics sceptic (me) will be won over by her enthusiasm. Among our other muses for May are American songstress Norah Jones on whiling away a sunny day in the city, and Alannah Weston, creative director of Selfridges, whom we all have to thank for many a happy Saturday afternoon’s shopping. From yellow bags it’s a short hop to scarlet lipstick, pussy-cat eyes on the catwalk and the best fake tan. For your next travel adventure we have the ultimate African safari. All that and Rowley Leigh with a gourmet feast you can cook up in 15 minutes – yes, there is room for men in the pages of this magazine, but only if they’re really useful. I hope you like what you see. Please let me know, and happy reading...
Sasha Slater sasha@amusemagazine.co.uk
BETHAN COLE
Bethan Cole is a beauty writer who has contributed to everything from Vogue to The Sunday Times Style section over the past 20 years. While in this month’s aMuse she examines the romantic appeal of red lips, in her own life she’s currently in love with a cat called Leonard. My Muse: ‘Tennessee Williams’ sister Rose because she suffered with mental health problems yet inspired fantastic literature.’
ARABELLA PRESTON
Arabella Preston, our beauty editor, is a freelance make-up artist and self-confessed beauty addict. Her work in the worlds of fashion, film and celebrity takes her from the sublime to the ridiculous via clients as diverse as the Duchess of Cambridge and Michael McIntyre. My muse: ‘Anita Roddick – she was the most charming pain in the arse and understood the power of beauty far beyond face value.’
Contributors
LISA GRAINGER CHRISTOPHER SIMS
Photographer Christopher Sims, directs, produces, conceives and creates shoots for publications such as ELLE and The Observer. In the past, he’s shot Alexandra Burke and Paloma Faith and for us he captures the warmth of Sadie Frost at home with her daughter, Iris. My Muse: ’People are my muse, fashion is my habit, art is my experimentation. All have their importance.’
Lisa Grainger grew up in Zimbabwe and has worked as a writer and editor for The Sunday Times Magazine, The Times Magazine and ELLE. She has hunted with the Bushmen of the Kalahari and traced the source of the Nile, though for aMuse she had the easier gig of luxuriating at the Sabora Safari Camp in Tanzania. My Muse: ‘Ann Cotton, the British woman who started Camfed, the charity that sends African girls to school.’
Sasha Slater Editor sasha@amusemagazine.co.uk Hicham Kasbi Art Director hicham@amusemagazine.co.uk Stephanie Hirschmiller Deputy Editor stephanie@amusemagazine.co.uk Lorelei Marfil aMuse Reviews Editor lorelei@amusemagazine.co.uk Polly Glass Features Assistant polly@amusemagazine.co.uk Arabella Preston Beauty Editor arabella@amusemagazine.co.uk Fran Mullin Fashion Assistant fran@amusemagazine.co.uk Contributors: Bethan Cole, Nick Cox, Sadie Frost, Lisa Grainger, Lydia Slater, Victoria Moore, Valentina Tiurbini, Rowley Leigh 0207 866 8102 @amuse_mag facebook.com/amusemagazine Stephen Murphy Publisher stephen@amusemagazine.co.uk Christian Price Commercial Director christian@amusemagazine.co.uk Advertising Consultant: Debra Davies 0207 866 8101 Printer BGP
DIETER BRANDENBERG
Dieter Brandenberg first encountered his aMuse subject, DJ/model Sunday Girl, on the street in 2010. Captured by her look, he promptly whisked her off to a photoshoot in Hyde Park. He has worked with Rankin and Mario Testino and spends his spare time recording the ups and downs of Pete Doherty’s colourful career. My Muse: ‘Alexa Chung – a cool girl with a great personality. She and Kate Moss together would be a dream shoot!’
aMuse Magazine is published by aMuse Media, 71-75 Shelton Street, London WC2H 9JQ. Company number: 07189146. aMuse Media cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles and images. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters and emails. The material in aMuse Magazine is subject to copyright. All rights reserved. The paper in this magazine originates from timber that is sourced from sustainable forests, responsibly managed to strict environmental, social, and economic standards. The manufacturing mills have both FSC & PEFC certification, and also ISO9001 and ISO14001 accreditation.
When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it
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aMUSE
Reviews
.../FASHION... ART... FILM... MUSIC... RESTAURANTS... BARS... BOOKS... SHOWS /... Compiled by LORELEI MARFIL and POLLY GLASS
FLAGGING UP THE CLUTCH
It’s a showstopper as this colourful brand takes over the halls at Harrods
Inspired by her Colombian heritage, designer Nancy Gonzalez is known for incorporating opulent skins with a bold aesthetic palette. Commemorating a decade of the accessories brand in-store, Harrods recently launched a dedicated space for the signature-block colour collection. Add a spot of colour to your wardrobe with this limitededition Diamond Jubilee clutch, designed to celebrate the launch. Created by Nancy and Santiago Gonzalez in collaboration with Marigay McKee, this clutch features a Union Flag design. All together now... ‘God save our gracious...’ Nancy Gonzalez Diamond Jubilee clutch, £995 harrods.com
Glass surfaces, brass detailing and lovely mirrored glass tanks, make it feel as though you could be browsing an art gallery or museum. Whether it’s Lanvin, Coach, Alexander Wang or Astley Clarke you’re after (heck, even if you just fancy staring at pretty things for a while) - head down to Regent Street. liberty.co.uk
BUCKS FIZZ Jean Paul Gaultier has just revealed an exclusive limited edition collection with Diet Coke entitled Night & Day (£1.95, Harvey Nichols) featuring bottles bedecked in Breton stripes and a corset not dissimilar to the cone-shaped bra he made for Madonna’s 1990 Blonde Ambition tour. We caught up with The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander at the London launch at Harvey Nics who revealed the reason behind JPG’s fascination with corsets: “His grandmother used to wear them, and when she was being laced into one, she would take a swig of vinegar as it made her take a sharp intake of breath and then the girl would lace it tighter.”
CROCODILE ROCKS KNIGHTSBRIDGE
LIBERTY HALL
Grown-up gems, fashion jewellery, and beautiful bags (oh the bags...) - get a seriously chic refit at this new Liberty room
The sportswear company, Lacoste, is opening up its biggest shop ever on Brompton Road and will offer textiles as well as its signature aertex shirts. Then there’ll be the Lacoste Lab, curated by Christophe Pillet, Director of Design. From balls and bikes to skis and surfboards, Pillet will collaborate with sports stars to develop limited-edition pieces. Lacoste, 44 Brompton Road SW3 1BW, lacoste.com.
2 0 12 IS ... T HE Y E A R OF T HE PAT T E R N
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CHARGING TOTE
LANVIN SS12; WERELSE FOR MANGO TOUCH
Fashion meets technology with a stylish collaboration between Richard Nicoll and Vodafone. The British designer has created a tote bag with a built-in charger to recharge smartphones, tablets and other electronic devices. The bag can be recharged via its magnetic induction pad and each full charge should last a couple of days. We’ve trialled the prototype and can’t wait to get our mitts on the real thing later this year.
fashion
/...
TIFFANY GRACE DIAMOND TIARA £52,000 Selfridges
TECH CHIC
WERELSE FOR MANGO TOUCH, £18.99 08450822448, mango.com
BEST OF BRITISH
NEW WEB BOUTIQUE
...is channelling its techie side by teaming up with Werelse, a label formed by international bloggers Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad, Andy Torres of Style Scrapbook and Carolina Engman, of Fashion Squad. The Mango Touch x Werelse capsule collection will include shoes, bags and accessories including an iPhone case and laptop bag.
This new site stylishly fuses fashion and business. Osmoda is a new online boutique that showcases a roster of emerging independent designers. Not only will you discover up-and-coming talent but you will also have the opportunity to become patrons of their designs. Labels include Christian Blanken and Craig Lawrence.
mango.com
osmoda.com
MANGO TOUCH...
WE’RE GOING ON A WOLF HUNT
Inspired by an aviator cap and his granny Brothers Henry and George Graham have collaborated to provide space and assistance to fledgling fashion designers such as Bora Aksu, Mark Fast and Georgia Hardinge. Their Wolf & Badger operation now has a second location on Dover Street. We should be grateful: without these boys, London’s fashion scene would be a very much less animated, eccentric affair. Hardly surprising, when you consider Henry Graham’s fashion inspiration is his granny... What is your top fashion moment? Receiving an aviator cap as a gift from my mother as a child. It was the envy of all my school friends. What inspires you? Shopping for furniture in flea markets.
This month, Selfridges Concept Store is getting a very British make-over and celebrating the most iconic Brit brands on the block fit for future Queens and Pearly Queens alike. We’re talking Barbour jackets sporting Union Jack linings and Mulberry Bayswater bags embellished with the British flag, Fred Perry polo shirts designed by Sir Peter Blake, vertiginous Pearly Queen heels by Nicholas Kirkwood and Charlotte Olympia and even a designated Tiara Shop with a range from £5 H&M tack to a £52,000 bespoke Tiffany version that’s anything but. You’ll also find replicas of the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding day creation. Harry hunters take note… From 4 May, selfridges.co.uk
What is your strongest fashion memory? Wearing my first proper tie. It was purple and glittery and I would wear it to any formal occasion. Who is the person you would most like to collaborate with? Grayson Perry If you weren’t a boutique owner, what would you do? Be a designer or, failing that, an inventor. Who is your style icon? My granny – she has great taste in fashion and interiors. What is the best piece of fashion advice you’ve ever been given? Never wear socks with sandals. When you aren’t working, what do you like to do? Design jewellery, walk my dog, go out for dinner. Name three things you can’t live without. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Mojo my Parson Russell terrier, art. Fashion should be... More fun and less serious. wolfandbadger.com
...at least, that’s what New York accessories designer Kate Spade has decreed. So she’s gone back in time, using archive prints by Florence Broadhurst, the Australian singer turned interior designer who was murdered in Sydney in 1977. Mystery, glamour, and wallpaper - it’s an enticing combination. The Kate Spade take on Broadhurst includes shoes (see right), accessories and homeware. We particularly like the Japanese floral train case (£490). katespade.com
LICORICE SHOES: £225
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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AMUSE fashion art
... / /... / FILM / RESTAUR A NTS / BOOKS /
From royalty to red carpets, we’re all suckers for a Cinderella moment and this month, the V&A taps into our preoccupation with the modern-day fairytale. Its forthcoming exhibition is a fanfare of opulence and innovation across the decades from John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood to Alexander McQueen and even a metallic leather gown by Gareth Pugh, created especially for the show. BALLGOWNS: British Glamour Since 1950 at the V&A, 19 May - 16 January 2013, vam.ac.uk
PATRICK LICHFIELD UNCOVERED Nudes at The Little Black Gallery
A gorgeous collection of nudes – never exhibited before – that reflect a previously unseen side to the man better known for his society connections and starry subject matter – not least for shooting the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1981. PATRICK LICHFIELD: Nudes, The Little Black Gallery until 26 May, thelittleblackgallery.com
THE KILLER INSTINCT
Damien Hirst at Tate Modern
HAVING A BALL YOGI BARE Kate Moss pops up in St
Diamond skulls, sharks and bisected cows in formaldehyde (quite a lot of things in formaldehyde actually...) – it could only be a career-spanning retrospective by Damien Hirst. Love him or hate him, an opportunity to see over 70 of his seminal works from the Nineties to the present day. DAMIEN HIRST, Tate Modern, until 9 September, tate.org.uk
She’s been on the cover of every magazine going but now you can Martin’s Lane see Kate Moss contorted into an extreme yoga pose in artist Marc Quinn’s new Manifold Editions print run. You can even buy one to inspire your own yogic/supermodel aspirations. The silkscreen prints (£960) reproduced in gold and silver leaf editions, were taken from Quinn’s 2006 sculpture series. SPHINX, Manifold Editions pop-up at The Front Room, St Martin’s Lane Hotel, 10 - 27 May
FA MILY M AT T E R S Riddle of the sands with Jane McAdam Freud
PATRICK LICHFIELD UNCOVERED © UNIPART GROUP/PATRICK LICHFIELD, V&A BALLGOWNS: ERDEM AW 2008, © DAVID HUGHES; © DAMIEN HIRST & SCIENCE LTD, DACS 2011. PHOTOGRAPHED BY PRUDENCE CUMING ASSOCIATES
ART /
McAdam Freud has built a career in her own right without trading off her surname so an exhibition about her childhood is new territory. “Family inspires me,” she explains. “The idea of it, and what it could mean.” The show features her sculptures from metal to clay. “When I was three years old, I had an epiphany in the sandpit. In that moment of pushing my hands through the water into the sand, I knew that was what I wanted to do.” Family Matters, Gazelli Art House until 25 May, gazelliarthouse.com 8 | AMUSE
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Combine to create
YOUR OWN STYLE
Create and combine your pandora jewellery for the perfect look this spring. Be inspired at pandora.net
20/04/2012
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AMUSE fashion film
DARK SHADOWS © 2011 WARNER BROS. ENT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; SNOW WHITE & THE HUNTSMAN© 2012 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; TALES OF THE NIGHT SODA PICTURES; JACK WHITE BY JO MCCAUGHEY
ART / ... / /.../ FILM / RESTAUR A NTS / BOOKS /
Gothic comedy is the order of the day in Dark Shadows, a tour de force of witchery and fantasy. Barnabas (Johnny Depp) is a rich, powerful heart-breaker who falls foul of a witch, Angelique Bouchard (Eva Green). She turns him into a vampire and buries him alive – hilarity and struggles ensue. Under the direction of Tim Burton, and with Depp and Green – along with Michelle Pfeiffer and Helena Bonham Carter – in smouldering form, it’s a camp must-see. darkshadowsmovie.warnerbros.com, 11 May
French flick, Tales of the Night, technically comes under the ‘children’s cinema’ banner – comprising numerous magical tales invented by two children and a projectionist in an abandoned picture house. But when the tales are so appealing - and when the combination of classic shadow puppetry and cutting-edge animation technology is quite as beautiful as this – who honestly cares? Genuinely captivating – take your kids, or borrow someone else’s. independentcinemaoffice.org.uk, 25 May
Jack White:
EARNING HIS STRIPES Whether or not you’re familiar with Jack’s band ventures – the White Stripes, the Raconteurs and the Dead Weather – his charismatic solo debut, Blunderbuss, is a record you’ll want to own. From psychedelic organ lines and country blues piano, to down ‘n’ dirty rock guitar, Blunderbuss oozes quality, swagger and sex appeal. Where the White Stripes’ records were more stripped back, White’s solo effort is an altogether more fleshed-out creation – reflective of his extensive involvement with a range of different artists. Listen at night with friends and wine. Out now
INVASION OF THE GOTHS Twilight starlet Kristen Stewart is the heroine and Charlize Theron the evil queen in Snow White and the Huntsman – a dark take on the fairytale. Forget any notions of drippy damsels in distress with impossibly squeaky voices – this Snow White is transformed into a hotshot warrior by the huntsman sent to kill her (Thor’s Chris Hemsworth). She thus becomes an utterly irresistible vision of gorgeousness and power for the dashing prince Sam Clafin, fresh from buckling his swash in Pirates of the Caribbean, on Stranger Tides. snowwhiteandthehunstman.com from 1 June
W INNE R , T HE B E S T S ONG T I T L E S OF 2 0 12
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Primadonna, Bubblegum Bitch, Valley of the Dolls, Fear and Loathing... Danielle Steele novel titles? Far from it. These are all tracks on the forthcoming album, Electra Heart, from enigmatic alt-pop starlet Marina and the Diamonds. It represents a confident bounce forward for Marina, who wrote the 12 tracks herself. She describes the record as ‘an Ode to dysfunctional love’. We’re reaching for our Kleenex already. Out 30 April, marinaandthediamonds.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Watch this campaign come to life Download the Aurasma app on your iphone, ipad 2 or Android device, then point it at the Clarks advert to watch it come to life.
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THE RIDING HOUSE CAFÉ
CAFÉ LE CORDON BLEU
In addition to The Garrison and Village East, co-owners Adam White and Clive Watson created this contemporary brasserie offering an intriguing breakfast menu. From chorizo hash browns to buttermilk pancakes or an omelette Arnold Bennett, you won’t go hungry. 43 Great Titchfield St, London, W1W 7PQ, 020 7927 0840, ridinghousecafe.co.uk
Known for its cookery school, Le Cordon Bleu has opened up the kitchen and set up its first cafe in Europe. Situated in Bloomsbury Square, patrons can dine on French dishes created by Le Cordon Bleu master chefs. Enjoy a Croque Monsieur or a Tartelette Provençale and fresh éclairs. 15 Bloomsbury Square, London WC1A 2LS, 0207 400 3900, lcblondon.com
THE BRUNCH BUNCH
where to get the best bacon and eggs
BUNGA BUNGA Launched last autumn by boys about town Duncan Stirling and Charlie Gilkes, Bunga Bunga is a bar and pizzeria that offers karaoke and opera as well as other surprise performances. From cured meats, pizza and dessert, patrons can enjoy a three-course brunch with unlimited glasses of Bellini and prosecco. Menu highlights include the Benedict pizza which is topped with Hollandaise sauce. 37 Battersea Bridge Road, London, SW11 3BA, 020 7095 0360, bungabunga-london.com
LOVE BRUNCH Love Brunch does indeed offer fantastic brunch, as well as a rather appealing daytime ‘night out’ experience. Held at highend venues each month, such as Kensington Roof Gardens (pictured), guests arrive at midday and are ushered to a table, or even a bed. Great burgers, salmon and eggs, not to mention a range of pleasingly affordable cocktails, set you up for performances, music and dancing to while away the afternoon. The fun stops at 6pm. Just in time for your evening to get going. welovebrunch.com
DRINK OF THE MONTH Garden lovers should stop by the Artesian Bar for a floral treat. To commemorate the Chelsea Flower Show, the Langham London will serve a cocktail created by Alex Kratena, an award-winning bartender and the cocktail artist at the Artesian bar. And if you can’t get there, and have some fresh jasmine blossom to hand, you could recreate the experience at home: BEST IN SHOW VENUS FLYTRAP COCKTAIL 75ml fino sherry flash infused with fresh jasmine blossom 30ml umeshu 2tsp sugar syrup 1dash orange flower water 1dash angostura bitters 1dash mandarin bitters
Use aromatic oils and jasmine blossom as a garnish. Served from 21 May-3 June, £14 at the Artesian Bar; artesian-bar.co.uk
STheE CLittle R E THouse A DDR ESS: in Mayfair
CHRIS GALVIN’S KITCHEN ESSENTIALS The Michelin-starred Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, boast four restaurants around London and the fi fth is now open. A family affair, Galvin Demoiselle in Harrods, will be run by Chris’s wife, Sara.
Little House, a new private members’ club from the Nick Jones/ Soho House stable, will tick a lot of boxes - sophisticated saloon bar, cosy dining booths, an appealing mix of vintage and new furnishings. Lounge on a fireside sofa with the Italy/New Yorkinspired ‘little menu’, or browse the art collection on display. Little House, 2 Queen St, London W1J 5PA
What is your specialty? A bourride [Provençal fish stew] with turbot is my thing. What is your must-have kitchen gadget? A diamond steel for sharpening my knives. You cannot work with a blunt knife. What is your favourite cookbook? Great Chefs of France, by Quentin Crew with photographs by Anthony Blake.
What’s your tip for a novice? Buy the very best ingredients you can, always close your eyes and prepare the entire recipe in your mind before you cook it, and allow plenty of time. When you are at home, what do you like to eat? A rib of Scottish beef with the family for Sunday lunch. harrods.com
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THE 80S REVIVAL IN VOGUE,
MICHAEL TROW
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Editor-in-Chief of UK Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, recreates her 1980s with her debut novel, Can We Still Be Friends?, a canter round the lives of three 20-somethings, Annie, Kendra and Sal, in the era of leg-warmers and boozy San Lorenzo lunches.
Which character do you relate with the most and why? It depends how I am feeling but the one of the three friends I most often relate to is probably Annie. What was your aim with the novel? I hope readers will simply be immersed in the world of the book. I always like that feeling of being removed from my own time temporarily.
ON YOUR BIKE
Mikael Colville-Andersen
An insight into the role of ‘cycle chic’ in urban living. From gritty messengers to tweed-wearing bankers to Pashley princesses, the founder of the first cycling fashion blog (there had to be one eventually), Mikael Colville-Andersen, sparked off infinite numbers of imitators around the globe. Clearly, there’s a lot more to the bike brigade than polystyrene helmets and questionable shorts…. Out 7 May, Thames & Hudson, £14.95
FLICKING THROUGH FASHION There’s something romantic about looking back on the small beginnings of luxury behemoth brands. Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs which accompanies an exhibition at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris (running until 16 September) offers such an experience. It traces the brand’s roots all the way back to a small carriage trade workshop in Paris, 1854, where one Louis Vuitton began his eponymous fashion house. The lives of Vuitton and his creative successor Marc Jacobs are both explored – along with the collaborations that Marc has undertaken with, among others, Takashi Murakami, Stephen Sprouse and Richard Prince. Altogether, a nostalgic dose of fashion and history. Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs is out now, published by Rizzoli, £47.50
One for the lovers of period decadence among you. The Glitter and the Gold sees American heiress, Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan, recount her eventful life with the late Victorian/early Edwardian glitterati, before her move away from her loveless arranged marriage to the ninth Duke of Marlborough, and into the suff ragette movement. The strong-willed Consuelo provides a sparkling insight into the Downton world of encounters with Winston Churchill, Queen Victoria and HG Wells. Out now, Hodder and Stoughton, £8.99
OF MICE AND MEN Nick Harkaway
The digital era – a marvellous thing, or a massive headache? Both schools of thought are explored by novelist and tech blogger Nick Harkaway in this comprehensive, engaging guide to ‘being human in a digital age’. The Blind Giant by Nick Harkaway, out 10May, John Murray Hardback/Hodder and Stoughton, £20
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NOISES OFF BY JOHANN PERSSON; BLAKE HARRISON BY JAMES DEVERELL
You’ve created strong female relationships in your novel, are they based on experiences you have had? I have always had close friends and been very reliant on them so I used them as a reference. Friendships go through ups and downs. Such as? I had quite a disparate group of friends when I was at university [Sussex]. I lost track, sadly, of many of them after we left but over the years some have re-emerged. I re-met one when he appeared at a local book festival last year. Another I read about in a magazine 15 years ago and discovered she was living in New York. That’s the nature of friendship... Can We Still Be Friends? is out now, published by Fig Tree, £12.99
shows
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JODIE GOES GREEK From ST TRINIANS to Sophocles
Rising star Jodie Whittaker looks set to make her mark this month, as she stars in Sophocles’ tragedy Antigone, alongside Christopher Eccleston. Not bad for a National Theatre debut, and quite a leap from her breakout role as the ditzy, booze-swilling receptionist in the St Trinians films. Antigone (a version by Don Taylor), The Olivier Theatre, from 30 May, nationaltheatre.org.uk
FARCE AND FURIOUS
As Noises Off moves to the Novello Theatre from the Old Vic, and its fictional cast continue their battle with performancerelated repetitive strain injury, we have sifted through the onstage bedlam and distilled it into the following five practical life lessons: - A slammed door swings both ways - Be wary of fish handed to you on a plate - Do not judge a Sikh by his or her cover - Never trust an estate agent - Tax-evading is more trouble than it’s worth We hope that you find the performance as useful as we did. Noises Off, Novello Theatre, until 30 June, seetickets.com
STEPPING UP
Sex, drugs and serious theatre...
In his West End debut, Step 9 (Of 12), Blake Harrison takes on a rather more intense role than that of his cerebrally-challenged Inbetweeners’ character, Neil. Acclaimed upand-coming playwright Rob Hayes’ new work tells the story of Keith – a recovering alcoholic and drug abuser with a lot of bridges to mend. ‘Step 9 (Of 12)’, at Trafalgar Studios, 1-26 May, trafalgar-studios.official-theatre.co.uk
HWhen AU TJean E CPaul OU TGaulti UR Eer BmetA LMahler LET With costumes by Jean Paul Gaultier, music by Mahler, 25 dancers and warnings of nudity, celebrated French choreographer Angelin Preljocaj’s stylish take on Snow White is all decidedly cutting edge. Ballet Preljocaj’s Snow White, Sadlers Wells, 10 - 12 May, sadlerswells.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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RUCHE bed. Design: Inga SempĂŠ
23-25 Mortimer Street London W1T 3JE 020 7323 1248 www.ligne-roset-westend.co.uk
–– Hilary Rose’s Object of Desire ––
IT takes class to turn a nail into an infinitely desirable piece of jewellery. Well, class, and a precious metal and maybe a diamond or two. But that’s just what Cartier has done with its newly-reinvented the Le Clou design. First conceived in the 1970s, with its clean, modern lines, the company has now updated the design for the 21st century. With five bracelets for men and women, and seven rings, the Juste un Clou range is a precious item of jewellery that nonetheless has a sense of fun: a solid gold piece of exquisite Cartier artistry, yet modelled on something as simple and everyday as a household nail. In yellow, white or pink gold, some designs feature diamonds, others are beautifully plain, but all are based on ‘ just a nail’ curved round the wrist or the finger. Cartier has hit the nail on the head. Juste un Clou bracelet in yellow gold, £4,525, Cartier.co.uk Hilary Rose is a feature writer for The Times
le CLOU
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‘I drew along while watching Thierry Mugler shows when I was eight years old’
The fast fashion fix:
david
koma Q: Who do Beyoncé, Daphne Guinness, Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Samantha Cameron reach for when they need a show-stoppping gown? A: The 26-year-old Shoreditch-based designer, David Koma. Born David Komakhidze, in Georgia, he left Eastern Europe to study at Central St. Martin’s. He lives with his wife, Alexandra Loginova, 27, who is also his business partner.
I first took an interest in fashion... when I was really young. I drew along while watching early Thierry Mugler shows when I was eight years old. Designing was just a natural progression... by the age of 13 I had participated in a young designer contest and I have continued designing ever since. Central Saint Martins was one of the best times of my life... everything that I remember was a great experience – the surroundings, the amazing classmates, the inspirational tutors... Professor Louise Wilson helped me to stay focused on what I believed in and push myself to the limit.
I’m inspired by... anything from Pedro Almodóvar movies, to contemporary art, vintage clothing, sculpture or a little something I notice on the streets. I’m fascinated by tattoos... and tribal body paint. The traditional Polynesian male tattoo is called Pe’a’ and covers the body from the waist to the knee. It symbolises men who are respected for their courage. It inspired my SS12 collection. The best pieces of advice I have ever received are... ‘talent always wins’ and ‘stay true to yourself ’ - thank you, Professor Louise Wilson. These days I would advise embryo designers to... be dedicated, work harder than you think you can and always follow your instincts to be different. My guilty pleasures are... watching House and Criminal Minds. I relax... I don’t have much opportunity to unwind, however when I do I prefer to keep it simple and enjoy home-cooked dinners with my wife. aMUSEmagazine.co.uk |
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PROMOTION
ARTY CHIC HOMEMADE LONDON A truly unique offering for London – Nicola Barron’s innovative hub draws leading designers and crafts people for hosts of indulgent artistic workshops. From lingerie and jewellery to perfumes and truffles, a veritable smorgasbord of pretty things are made at private lessons, sociable classes and even hen parties held here. Pop in after work and enjoy a glass of champagne with likeminded individuals as you absorb yourself in luxury creativity.
PORTMAN VILLAGE A CENTRAL LONDON OASIS Nestled behind the chaos of Oxford Street, on New Quebec Street and Seymour Place, lies this stylish community of fashion, fine food and lifestyle boutiques. Here we present some choice snippets to whet your appetite…
SUNNY FASHION
ELISKA
PERFECT PERFUMES
LES S E N T E UR S
Exquisite, specialist fragrances are the order of the day at this beautiful perfumery. Besides small, often exclusive, perfume brands for sale – including original fragrances from the likes of Jo Malone perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek - resident expert Nick Gilbert runs ‘describing scent’ workshops on site. “There’s a huge history of fragrance and people don’t really know about it,” Nick says, “It’s great to talk about it.” With a clientele that extends “from taxi drivers to royalty”, it’s a luxurious yet welcoming boutique of scent.
From PAOLITA
Looking for the perfect bikini as summer approaches? Look no further. Formerly a designer for Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan, Anna Paola is making her mark in Portman Village with her stylish swimwear boutique. “It’s so nice here because you’re really in the centre of London but at the same time it’s got a lot of tranquillity to it,” Anna says, “which I like especially because I design here.” Indeed, doubling up as her studio, Paolita is a quirky, quality addition to the village.
SEXY SPECS
by VIREN JANI Bespectacled fashionistas, listen closely. Viren Jani, one of the capital’s most sought-after optometrists, boasts an astonishing range of modern, vintage and unusual frames – including handmade creations from designers like Judith Leiber and Ferre. From classy wood finishes and intricate hieroglyphics, to diamonds and 18 carat gold, these specs are beautiful things to behold. “More than anything we’re a highly personalised service,” Viren tells us, “and it’s a nice discreet place here.” This factor has helped him attract a stellar clientele including Chaka Khan and Belinda Carlisle – as well as the English aristocracy.
Internationally-renowned interior designer Eliská offers beautiful, unusual household items for the discerning homemaker. Whether it’s bespoke furniture pieces, quirky one-offs or beautiful linens you’re after, the eliská team will have something for you. They’ll even help source anything you can’t find in the shop - what could be better?
COUTURE COFFEE From LA MASSERIA
Where do the likes of Nancy Dell’Olio, Brooke Shields and Guy Ritchie go for the finest Italian coffee and deli treats? Portman Village’s very own La Masseria. This chilled, ultra-trendy café specialises in the best Puglian cheeses, meats, pastries and other delights, and even supplies top-end restaurants like Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. Simple, quality ingredients and friendly staff make it ideal for young professionals breaking for lunch. Or shoppers looking for an authentic foodie breather.
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PROMOTION
PORTMAN VILLAGE JUBILEE STREET SPECTACULAR Vibrant street stalls, multinational cuisine, Pimms, giant Jenga… The perfect recipe for a Spring Jubilee party, put together with panache by the people of PV. This event will be a great celebration of everything the area has to offer, brought out onto the streets for all to experience and enjoy. Along with inviting activities hosted by the various boutiques (including a Punch and Judy show and other child-friendly fun), revellers will be able to enjoy a glass of fizz, or indulge in a spot of high-end tea, coffee tasting and brewing. In addition, culinary treats including barbeques, Mauritian seafood from Seaport Restaurant, North Indian and Pakistani food from Zayna and Corsican pizza at Sandy’s will be on hand to tantalise your taste buds. All capped off with deck chairs, artificial grass on the pavements and other touches for a quirky finish. And for the ultimate overnight experience, why not reserve one of the eight bespoke designed rooms at The Grazing Goat – a gorgeous boutique hotel and public house in the heart of the village. Jubilee bliss from the capital’s finest.
P OR T M A N V IL L A GE A NN U A L S T R E E T PA R T Y – M AY 3 0 T H 5P M -10 P M Portman Village consists of Seymour Place and New Quebec Street, conveniently located two minutes walk from Marble Arch tube station. Like what you see? Join the PV Club and enjoy exclusive members’ benefits. See portmanvillage.com for more details.
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Mother
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photo-shoot at Sadie’s house in Primrose Hill and we’re all in the kitchen with its big farmhouse table and doors thrown open to the garden. Sadie’s getting her make-up done and 11-year-old Iris has two friends over who alternate between playing with an iPad and a pet tortoise called Percy, commandeering the trampoline in next door’s garden and begging Sadie’s sister Jade to let them re-enact Iris’ school project. It involves dry ice… “I like having the neighbours’ kids over. I’ve always got people staying and the house is a really warm loving environment,” says Frost. She gets this feeling from her father, psychedelic artist David Vaughan, who would often arrive home with a complete stranger he’d picked up on the motorway – “he’d then be his best friend for two weeks”. Vaughan also helped people from deprived areas: “He’d teach them to paint, people who didn’t even know how to read or write, who didn’t know how to fill out a giro.” Sadie is 46 but, notwithstanding four children – Finlay, 21, with first husband, Spandau Ballet’s Gary Kemp and then Rafferty, 15, Iris and Rudi, 9, with Jude Law – looks like a fresh-faced teen herself. She’s elfin, petite and yoga-honed with good genes and an un-40-something exuberance. Her mother, Mary, was just 16 when Sadie was born and her father, only a couple of years older, had two children already. “It was
the swinging 60s and dad was painting murals on Carnaby Street, working with people like The Beatles, painting John Lennon’s Rolls Royce and Paul McCartney’s piano, and doing a Kinks album cover.” There was a lot of love and excitement in the family, but little money. They spent time living in squats, sleeping on people’s sofas and even riding in a bus down the hippy trail. “My dad had got an American school bus and we lived on that for nearly a year; we drove it from Camden Town to Marrakesh.” When he was painting, Vaughan would take Sadie, then a tiny child, everywhere with him. “The first person a girl falls in love with is her father, and that’s very important for development. You always hope that if you’re a girl you have a good relationship with your dad. Throughout my life, all my relationships have been affected by my relationship with him. I suppose it would be scary though if you have such a great relationship that you’re always let down after that,” she muses. “He used to take me out in the middle of the night and I’d be perched up on a wall and he’d be painting some building, and then we’d run away from the police. There was always a drama.” The drama, however, took on a darker edge when Vaughan had a bad acid trip. Sadie believes ‘he was spiked’ and his extreme creativity plummeted into depression. “Things started to unravel and fall apart,” she recalls.
Make-up: Sara Austin at occasionhairandmakeup.co.uk Hair: Joel Benjamin © Photographer: Christopher Sims; assistant nick thompson
With two ex-husbands, four children, a teenage mother and a father who never recovered from a bad acid trip, Sadie Frost’s family life has never been easy. But she and her daughter Iris, the aMuse columnists, are working out their relationship as they go along, discovers Stephanie Hirschmiller
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Left: Sadie Frost at home in Primrose Hill last month and (above) with Iris.
Vaughan and Mary split when Sadie was four. Her mother remarried and her parents went on to have two other families each: “There were 11 brothers and sisters between us!” For the most part, though, Sadie was brought up by her mother, but confesses that she was a difficult child. “I think you find out stuff about yourself if you challenge your parents, and you want buttons to be pressed otherwise. My mum was a girl, a child. I still saw her as my mother, but really, as I was growing up she was growing up as well. I’ve never been that far behind, so we’re more like friends, or sisters.” In her relationship with Iris, she’s now experiencing that button-pressing from the other side. “There was that slightly spiky relationship between me and my mother and I can see that developing with me and Iris,” she says now. The pair are evidently close and have a lot in common and you can see they both work hard so things run smoothly, but, as Sadie admits, it’s not always easy - “I can see how I irritate my daughter”. However: “It’s par for the course. The trick, as a mother, is not to respond, not to take offence. You’ve got to expect that there’ll be times when you disagree, as long as you don’t worry about disagreeing. Iris is very strong-willed – she’s become that and probably all my kids will because of the way their parents are. But she’s also very bright. I don’t think I was nearly as bright as she is.” Iris is certainly bright, articulate and confident but she’s unaffected and unselfconscious with it. She tells me that her jumper is from Religion but she bought it at Urban Outfitters, and that her top is from Wildfox. “But I don’t like people knowing,” she continues conspiratorially “in case they copy it.” She also admits that she originally thought Topshop was “really boring with ugly jeans” until her mum took her shopping there
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Above: Sadie aged 15 with mother Mary in 1971 Right: Sadie as a baby in 1967 with father David and his partners Doug Binder and Dudley Edwards on top of Primrose Hill.
‘My childhood was f illed with endless amounts of love but I didn’t know where I was going to be living or what was going to happen’
and she changed her mind. She’s still very much a child though and is just as excited about buying “this really cool thing that looks like Play-Doh”, on a half-term trip to Japan. “It turns into a rubber when you put it in the oven.” She’s also creative – the kind of girl who writes a poem about a visit to a restaurant: “it was really cool – you got your own chef!” Writing is a passion of Sadie’s as well, she is currently working on a screenplay called Dirty Hair, a modern-day fairytale set on a housing estate: “It’s like Amelie meets the East End crime thriller Harry Brown.” And then there’s Frost French, the clothing company she started in 1999 with her close friend Jemima French. The label had its ups and downs but has since spawned spin-off lines for Debenhams: lingerie and swim range Floozie and loungewear collection Iris and Edie, named after the duo’s daughters. A skincare line called Palm Springs is due to launch next year. But most imminent is a new one-woman show, Touched Like a Virgin opening at The Soho Theatre at the end of May. It’s a sequel to Zoe Lewis’ Touched for the Very First Time, in which Sadie starred at the Trafalgar Theatre two years ago. The follow-up revisits original protagonist, Madonna-obsessed Lesley, who is desperate to find a man and have a baby. Sadie’s acting career started early and she was appearing in commercials from the age of three, when her mother signed her up along with her sister Sunshine with a talent agency: “my mum always wanted to be an actress and a dancer, but then she got pregnant…” explains Frost. It was Sunshine (“incredibly beautiful with blond ringlets,” as her sister describes her), who was the obvious candidate for child stardom but “even though Sunny looked the part, it was me who responded well. I loved the attention, loved showing off,” recalls Sadie. A scholarship to the Italia Conti stage school followed. “My mum kind of encouraged it but it was me who really saw that as my way out, a focus. I’ve been very driven and career-orientated from a young age.” Sadie’s childhood, although fi lled with “endless amounts of love” was, by her own admission, “an insecure existence because you didn’t know where you were going to be living or what
was going to happen.” She and her siblings spent a lot of time living with other families including one in Hornsey: “We would be thrown together with loads of other kids, some were my brothers and sisters, some weren’t.” She hasn’t followed this path with her own children. In their house, routine is important: “We’ll always have a proper sit-down tea and they like to know that I take them to school every day. I think they feel secure if they know what’s happening.” That extends to their relationship with their fathers – Gary Kemp (Finlay) and Jude Law (Rafferty, Rudi and Iris) – “They’ve got great relationships with their dads, they spend a lot of time with them”. As if to demonstrate this, Iris briefly considers changing out of school clothes into a Miss Selfridge romper suit – only to realise “ahhh I can’t - it’s at my dad’s”. She also shows me Jude’s attempt at Doodle Jump, the current favourite game, on her iPad. But it must make for difficult timetables and awkward conversations when one father’s a rock star and one’s an A-list actor? “We just see what’s best for the child. If it’s more convenient that one week they’re more with their father, that’s fine. I’ve always thought it’s very important for it to be equal and to be fair. It just so happens that sometimes ‘the dad’s job’ is abroad so the kids will be more with me because of work. But, actually, it’s pretty fair, pretty equal.” Sadie is keen to keep her offspring down to earth, and for their part, the children are remarkably unfazed by either parent’s celebrity. “I think kids take it with a pinch of salt – they’re not impressed, you’re just their mum. They just like you to make nice food and help them with their homework. I think kids want normality.” In the Primrose Hill living room Sadie poses for our photographer – much to the delight of a giggling Iris. “Mwah! Gorgeous, darling,” she gushes, mimicking her mum’s pout. And doing rather a good job of it. a Sadie and Iris are aMUSE’s new mother and daughter columnists Touched Like a Virgin, The Soho Theatre, 22 May - 9 June, sohotheatre.com
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Family values
SADIE FROST
I
t’s funny spending time with your nearly teenage daughter. This young innocent is changing each day and her hormones are pinging round her body like a jack-in-a-box firework. We are so alike it’s frightening, and it’s as if there’s a mirror slowly being held up in front of me. There is definitely the Saffy and Edwina saga going on, and it’s me who feels like the giggly child laughing like a hyena in a purple hoody, while she explains the basis of Heston Blumenthal’s molecular cooking. It is normal for her to question me as a mother and a person, and I am sure I embarrass her when I try to sing along to a new song in the car, or join in with a dance routine she’s learning with her mates. I get up in the morning and Iris is wearing my blazer and shoes for school – but that’s fine, we’re the same size and I don’t want to be one of those mums moaning about their kids borrowing stuff. Iris has a quirky tomboyish style like me and is very classic so she’s welcome to raid my wardrobe (within reason). I’m a real shoe fan, especially if they’re Louboutins or Jimmy Choos, and have a pretty big collection but ironically I’ve never been able to walk in heels very well and she can. She’s only allowed to wear them in the house though. She’s sweet, she’ll say to me, “when I’m 16 can I have this?” There is nothing so good and so challenging, nothing so sweet and beautiful as our relationship – but this is a rollercoaster ride that we are both going to be negotiating for a long time, and we are holding on tight through thick and thin. Iris oozes confidence. It takes me back to the Seventies when life for me in London was not so good or secure, and I look at her, and her strength, and think maybe I have done a good job.
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER SIMS; ASSISTANT NICK THOMPSON
‘This young innocent is changing each day and her hormones are pinging round her body like a jack-in-the-box firework’
IRIS L AW
M
y mum is so very funny, sometimes she is a little bit embarrassing but at least she is a mother I can depend on. I also love the fact that she is tiny so I can borrow her clothes and she never finds it a problem. I really want her Vivienne Westwood pirate boots when I’m 16 but, to be fair, I probably wear them just as much now as if I owned them. Often when I come home from school there will be a surprise in the corner of my bedrooom from Miss Selfridge but it’s more fun when mum takes me shopping and we go to Topshop or Urban Outfitters for a girly day out. At first though, I usually think it’s a bit boring or I’m like “this has got really rubbish clothes” but then mum says “oh but I arranged this for you” so I say “oh alright!” Originally I though Topshop was rubbish but then I went there and thought it was really cool. I went to see Florence and the Machine recently and wore my Miss Selfridge romper suit. We all got to dance with her on stage a few years ago at Latitude – dressed as animals. Tonight I’m doing a dance routine to Closer by Ne-Yo for a talent show with my two best friends Frankie ‘The Queen of Coolness’ and Charlotte ‘The Awesome of Awesomeville’. I also love to cook, as this way I can express myself and make people happy at the same time. I have dreamt of being a chef since I was six and my favourite is Heston Blumenthal. I ate at The Fat Duck once and it was sensational. I will remember it forever. I never properly tried to copy any of his dishes because he is so great but I’ve just done an experiment with dry ice for my drama exam. I went to his lab for my birthday as my dad knows him a bit and his sous chef gave me the idea. I got dry ice and put it in a bowl with four oranges and poured in hot water and mandarin essential oil and it smelt like the oranges had flavoured it.
‘I really want her Vivienne Westwood pirate boots when I’m 16 but, to be fair, I probably wear them just as much now as if I owned them’
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how the
WESTON WON Her father’s the second richest man in Canada; she fled Ireland because of an IRA kidnap attempt; and when she needs advice on design, she’ll ask Sam Taylor-Wood. It’s Alannah Weston’s extraordinary life that makes her Selfridges such a success discovers Lydia Slater
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lannah Weston has put Nigella Lawson in the window, nudes on the escalator and rowing boats on the roof. Since taking over as creative director of Selfridges, Alannah Weston has transformed expectations of luxury retail. Selfridges’ department-store rivals tend to fall into one of two categories: stuffy temples to designer brands or frenetic bazaars. But all one can safely expect from a trip to Selfridges – voted World’s Best Department Store in 2010 – is that it will be surprising. You might pop in for a sandwich and find yourself riding a whale-shaped bucking bronco or getting a grammar lesson. This time, I pick up a free coupe of champagne as I squeeze through the crowds thronging the cosmetics department, and end up lying on an enormous bed with assorted strangers in an industrial space, watching a film of a woman dancing naked except for a pair of expensive boots, which is being beamed on the ceiling as part of an art installation celebrating the opening of the new Women’s Designer Galleries… I assume Weston must have been inspired by reading Scruples. The 1978 Judith Krantz bestseller, about a spoilt heiress who takes over a Beverly Hills boutique, left a generation of teenagers (me included) believing that nothing could be more glamorously creative than running your own luxury store. As I recall, the terrifying heroine, Billy, consulted little aside from her own whims when transforming her store into LA’s most chic destination.
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The new Selfridges Womenswear Galleries
The Selfridges experience is about space and light to encourage shoppers to relax and browse. There is usually a surprise on the roof, such as the boating pond.
It is to Weston’s credit that Selfridges seems to breathe this same spirit of careless, no-expense-spared joie de vivre. But she says she hasn’t read the book. And although she is the daughter of CanadianIrish billionaire Galen Weston, who bought Selfridges in 2003 for just under $1bn, she says this doesn’t excuse her from having to prove her wacky ideas make sound, brand-building business sense. “But if there’s something I’m passionate about and I believe it’s right, I’m able to bring it to life in the store for the customer,” she concedes. Hence, for instance, last year’s Project Ocean, in which she gave over the whole store for five weeks to highlight the issue of over-fishing, which had been brought to her attention by her brother. “In a family business, you can’t avoid the personal. That’s probably what gives Selfridges a different character to a store that might be run by a private equity group.” And she must be doing something right: despite the recession, profits at the store have soared since the Westons took over. Weston, 40, is slender and blonde and looks like a younger version of the actress Helen Hunt. She is wearing a silky black wrap dress from cutting-edge Belgian designer A.F. Vandervorst and highheeled Louboutin shoe-boots. Her office is a place of creative chaos, lined from f loor to ceiling with shelves stuffed with magazines and books on architecture. There are sheets of paper stuck to the walls covered in motivational exhortations, and mood boards are stacked up along the skirting boards. She shows me the one she created when coming up with the look for the Women’s Designer Galleries. There’s a photograph of gauze-wrapped trees by the artist, Christo (“my dad collects Christo and I’ve always loved it”) and a ballerina – “strong and athletic but also very feminine, graceful and intellectual”. A beautiful photograph of a seascape inspired the floor, which uses 10 different types of marble and gradually shades from black to grey to white. And a fashion shot of a diaphanously-clad model standing on a step-ladder is echoed in the gauze-veiled windows. “It was amazing to see how Jamie [Fobert, the architect] translated these ideas,” she says. “The main thing was to make the room feel as open as possible. We worked hard to avoid that feeling of going in and out of boutiques,
The Truvia Voyage of Discovery art installation on the Selfridges roof garden
so you could flow really easily. I wanted it all to feel architectural but feminine.” As a result, although the clothes (from designers including Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga) come with intimidating price tags, this is a wonderfully relaxing and serene place to linger, even if you haven’t the budget to buy anything. Partly, it’s because the room is full of natural light, another of Weston’s obsessions. “I’m on a one-woman campaign to try and open up as many windows as I can throughout the store,” she says. “I feel if a plant can’t survive somewhere, why should a person? I’ve always been against the Las Vegas school of retailing, where you close down and people don’t know where they are and can’t get out. I think if customers can see the exit and find their way to the toilet, they relax. And if they are relaxed, they stay longer.” At Selfridges, she points out, the escalators flow logically, so you’re not forced to walk all the way round to the other side of the floor to continue your journey (an idea that’s so unusual in retail that I automatically plod off before I realise it’s unnecessary). “I see Selfridges as a community, a tiny city. The question is, how best to negotiate it?” Perhaps the reason Selfridges works so well is because, unlike most store directors, Weston actually has town planning experience, having worked for her parents
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aMuse Magazine 2012: Aaron Basha advertisement (Right Hand Read)
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Toronto
Interactive fitting rooms at the Womenswear Galleries
the cutting edge – they’re incredibly plugged in to the East End while I’ve grown up and got interested in fish pie…” Like any working mother, she struggles to balance her domestic and working life. “I usually work from home on Monday mornings, and then I’m here Tuesday to Thursday. Fridays are for my family, and I’m pretty good at switching off. I’m not a workaholic.” The family live in Chelsea and at weekends, retreat to their country home in Berkshire where Weston relaxes by cooking huge meals and sneaking off to practise yoga in the boathouse. Clearly, Weston has no financial need to work. Indeed, after her eldest daughter was born prematurely, she did take time out, but she found she missed the excitement of her job – and who can blame her? “I am lucky,” she says. “It is very good fun.” This summer, with London celebrating the Jubilee and the Olympics, Weston has been able to give her creative instincts full rein. Of course, every fashion store will be bigging up Britain and its designers, but I can’t imagine many rivalling Weston’s planned ‘Big British Bang’. Alongside the inevitable Union Jack-branded fashion and jars of Marmite, from May until August, visitors to the store can expect to encounter strolling Pearly Kings and Queens and Morris dancers. There will be a tiara shop selling designs to suit every pocket, from £5 to a £52,500 diamond creation from Tiffany; royalists can snap up replicas of the tiaras worn by Lady Diana and K-Mid on their respective wedding days. In the Queen shop, you can snap up HM’s favourite Launer bag, Fulton umbrella and Dents gloves. The windows will depict scenes from British cultural life – such as a builder’s tea-break. And the roof, which she has previously transformed into a bright green boating lake and a Pierre Koffmann pop-up restaurant, will be reincarnated as a crazy golf course by anarchic food designers Bompas & Parr. “It’s going to be so much fun! You’ll be able to have the highest tea in London,” Weston boasts. “Each hole will be designed as a British landmark made out of cake… Luckily Bompas & Parr are as mad as I am…” For the Olympics, she’s commissioned urban survival backpacks from designers including Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith. “And I’m determined to get hold of the stopwatch that timed the three-minute mile.” “I like to engage with popular issues whether it’s the Olympics and Jubilee or the environment or closing libraries – but I try to do it with a sense of humour that people will respond to and in a way that’s not so obvious.” But does such eccentric whimsy really translate to the cash till? “Shoppers are looking for a destination experience,” she says. “Someone might be popping in to buy a lipstick in their lunch break, another person might want to spend the whole day here. Whatever time they spend, I want them to find it inspiring, amusing and surprising. I think that’s what we’re good at offering – it’s the stuff that’s wrapped around the shopping that makes the Selfridges experience so unusual.” a
‘My team are still at the cutting edge – they’re incredibly plugged in to the East End while I’ve grown up and got interested in fish pie…’
when they started Windsor, a new town in Florida. “I was very interested in the whole process of how you lay out a new town from scratch, and that was where I was working before I came to Selfridges.” In fact, although there were inevitable cries of nepotism from cynics who assumed when she was appointed that she was just a daddy’s girl who’d been waved into an important-sounding sinecure, it’s hard to imagine who would have been more suitable than she. Weston was born in Ireland and spent the first decade of her life living between Wicklow and Canada, until an IRA kidnap attempt forced the family to sell their 17th-century castle Roundwood Park and spend more time in Toronto. She won a place at Merton College, Oxford where she studied English, and then went into journalism, specialising in the arts, before being recruited by Burberry to be its press officer. In 2007, she married her childhood friend, architect Alexander Cochrane, son of Sir Marc Cochrane. “We are both architecture nerds,” she confesses. “For my 40th birthday, we went to the Peter Zumthor thermal baths in Vals – they’re incredible. That’s the kind of thing we like to do.” Her background in arts journalism has bequeathed her an impressive address book of creative talents she can call on, including the Chapmans and Sam Taylor-Wood. “I have a lot of friends who are artists and a lot of sounding boards in fashion, art, architecture and photography.” But equally influential are her daughters, aged four and two. It was when she toured the store with a pram that she realised she couldn’t get up to the Hix restaurant – which led to the opening of a café on the lower ground floor. “I’ve been here for nearly 10 years, and I see different aspects of our customers’ needs now I’m a mother,” she says. “I’m so much more interested in service and services than I was when I started. It’s about having a fish pie ready to cook in the food hall, and it’s about having a great personal shopper who will send things round to my house if I need to save time. My team are still at
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Stella McCartney created the Olympic kit for everyone from the synchronised swimmers to the horses, so why has a long list of critics popped up to attack her outfits? The designer talks Union Flags, top-heavy weightlifters and lights out in the Olympic Village with Sasha Slater
Getty Images
U
p until March, I hadn’t been even slightly excited by the Olympics. Tales of the gruelling training schedules endured by competitors such as the triathlete Brownlee brothers (no drink, no fun and bed in a special high-altitude-simulating tent at 9.30pm, anyone?) didn’t appeal. But then I went to the launch of Stella McCartney’s designs for Team GB at the Tower of London, and was completely won over. I was sitting behind McCartney and Alasdhair Willis, her boyishly handsome husband, and watched as she whooped with delight at the athletes, cheering and clapping them as they stood on white plinths, like the superheroes they are, in their washed pale blue Union-Jack strip. And I whooped too, like the deranged
athletics fan I’m not. And tears welled in my eyes. I know, it’s ridiculous, but what can I say? My reaction to the kit wasn’t typical of the rather picky audience of fashion writers and editors who were present. Hadley Freeman of the Guardian said afterwards that she should have used navy instead of aqua to help the sportsmen and women stand out more on the track: “Ultimately, it is better than uniforms of the past, but that’s a fairly low bar.” Even a group of scientists popped up to point out that competitors who wear red are more likely to win, so why the modest amount of crimson in the kit? But when I spoke to McCartney herself about what she was aiming for, her decision to avoid deep blue-black and use only touches of red (on shoes and neck-lines) suddenly made sense: “This is not about me, it’s about the athletes, and the nation, and being British. The Union flag was a big starting point for me. I think every Briton is proud of it, but I wanted to look at it in a different way.” Looking at things in a different way is something that comes naturally to McCartney, 40. Ever since 2001, when she quit the Chloé label to set up on her own, backed by the Gucci superbrand, she’s been startling fashion watchers and confounding the critics who sneered that she was merely trading on her father’s fame. Though they never satisfactorily explained why, if all it takes to be a success in business is a pop-star father, is Stella the only ‘daughter of ’ who’s really made it? Anyway, what really counts isn’t what the watchers made of the outfits, but how the athletes felt in them. “They look comfortable,” smiled McCartney as we sat on a sofa backstage in the Tower and watched them lounging against a railing in their Team GB tracksuits. “They don’t look like they’re embarrassed – which is important.” aMUSEmagazine.co.uk |
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‘I’m a couch potato compared to these guys. My sporting experiences don’t touch the sides’
Stella McCartney flanked by triple jumper Phillips Idowu and heptathlete Jessica Ennis. Right: Andy Murray
So I went over to ask them: “I probably couldn’t afford Stella McCartney’s own label,” says Goldie Sayers, 29, Britain’s champion javelin thrower, who was visibly thrilled to be wearing togs created by a bona fide designer. “I’ve seen a couple of her catwalk shows but when you’re an athlete build, and you’ve got shoulders, you wouldn’t fit them anyway.” Luckily for Sayers, the kit’s been created to fit everything: Sayers’s broad shoulders, triple jumper Phillips Idowu’s gangly legs, and what McCartney calls the weightlifters’ ‘top-heavy’ shape. Even the Olympic horses have got all-inones by the horse-mad Stella. While the horses may not be aware of the illustrious pedigree of their outfits, the male athletes certainly are. Jody Cundy, a 33-year-old paralympian cyclist from Cambridgeshire, is clearly chuffed to be wearing her designs. This, he explained to me, is because of her eight years spent designing for Adidas, which have won her respect in the sporting community. “She’s designing especially for us,” he told me. “It looks special and it’ll show us off.” McCartney clearly viewed the athletes as demanding customers, taking their foibles into account, just as she would any A-lister about to hit the red carpet in one of her gowns. The 22-year-old gymnast Lewis Smith, she reveals, “was worried about how the pattern of his all-in-ones was chopped off by the waistband of the tracksuit he wore over it”. So he got an outfit with the design on the chest and block colour beneath. And she wanted to make the female athletes look ladylike: “The women felt they weren’t being designed for,
before, so I gave their podium outfits a cinched-in waist.” She protected the modesty of the swimmers by making sure the fabrics weren’t too sheer, and made sure the sparkles wouldn’t drop off the gymnasts’ leotards. Thinking herself into the mind of an athlete was something of a stretch for the designer: “I’m a couch potato compared to these guys; my own sporting experiences don’t even touch the sides.” That said, she does horse-ride, swim, cycle, run and play tennis. To prepare, she talked to the sports stars, visited the velodrome to watch the cyclists train, and used her experience of designing for Adidas. “I was sporty at school. I played hockey [at her local comprehensive school in East Sussex] but I dropped out of it and had no interest after the age of 15. Hockey wasn’t something I took into later life. I talked to the hockey guys and said ‘I used to play!’ but luckily they didn’t make me do a Kate Middleton and have a go.” She may not have brought sporting expertise to the designing exercise but she did bring psychology: “After working this closely with them, and having such an incredible insight into how the athletes’ minds are working, I feel so involved in every event,” she explains. But just as important was what Team GB would wear in the Olympic Village, where they will spend two weeks in purdah, away from family and friends and surrounded by other athletes. “It’s a social moment for them,” she says. “They told me: ‘When we go into the food hall, we want everyone to know that this is Team GB sitting there having their lunch’.” Quite apart from looking good for all the shenanigans said to go on after lights out... “You think athletes are not human,” explains McCartney, a mother of four children aged between seven and two, who must, therefore, know quite a bit about human nature in the raw. “That surely they don’t think the way we do, and care what they look like. You imagine that they’re just obsessed with their performance. But my first question to them was ‘Do you think what you’re wearing has an impact?’ And they said ‘Yeah, it will help our performance’. It’s exactly the way I would feel. There was one athlete, though – I think it was a cyclist, who said: ‘I don’t care how I look, as long as the technology’s there.’ Which was a good reminder.” McCartney plans, rather ambitiously, to go to ‘everything’ during the Olympics as she feels so involved in the athletes’ performances. There will no doubt be sniping online about her aqua and white version of the Union Flag. But as the commentator David Aaronovich said to me after the design launch: “These are the same people who would have had a major problem with Impressionism.” a Stella McCartney is the official designer for Team GB and Adidas
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Afternoon Tea blends the best of British ingredients and tradition with experimental touches. Overlooking the Royal Parks, the hotel is located on the site of Queen Elizabeth II former residence (145 Piccadilly). What better place to enjoy Afternoon Tea than Lillibet’s former home? Experience the two new award-winning tea concepts for 2012 created by Executive Chef Paul Bates… Botanical Tea celebrates the nearby Royal Parks with a sensory blend of peels, fruits, herbs, spices, and herbaceous botanicals. Start off with a delicate Champagne cocktail, infusing homemade vanilla bean syrup and cardamom bitters. A botanical palate cleanser made with Kentish pears and juniper will cleanse the palate prior to an innovative selection of open-face sandwiches, including nettle marinated asparagus and beef sirloin. As if that wasn’t enough to tempt you, you’ll then be presented with delicious warm citrus peel scones with fresh strawberry jam and clotted cream, followed by spring inspired cakes from Pastry Chef Luis Meza. Honouring the hotel’s heritage, Royal-Tea presents pretty English classics fit for a Queen. Just in time for the Diamond Jubilee, the Afternoon Tea celebration begins with the Queen’s favourite aperitif, Gin & Dubonnet, followed by a selection of classic sandwiches, and warm sultana buttermilk scones. The experience is completed with a pretty selection of delicious desserts like coffee mousse and walnut torte (a personal favourite of Her Majesty) and a raspberry Eton mess shortbread. Oh they do spoil you there... Afternoon Tea is priced from £25 and served Monday to Sunday from 1pm to 5pm. Bookings are essential and can be made on 020 7409 3131. Executive Chef Paul Bates has worked alongside modern tea emporium Tea Palace to curate an extensive tea menu with two custom blends that pay tribute to the hotel – No. 1 Park Lane and The Wellington Blend both exclusively available at InterContinental
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have you met miss
jones?
Norah Jones, the daughter of the Beatles’ favourite sitar player, Ravi Shankar, is known for her mellow vocals and laid-back approach to life. So what’s she doing on her new album singing about being dumped for a younger woman – confronting an ex’s girlfriend, drug-taking and infidelity? Lorelei Marfil finds out
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“
ou take things that are close to your heart and at times very personal or that you feel close to and you try to make a good song out of it,” says Norah Jones, the American singer known for her sultry voice and revealing lyrics. Jones, 33, has sold 40 million albums worldwide, which include her chart-topping debut album Come Away with Me. Not only has she worked with artists such as Ray Charles and Willie Nelson but she has even starred in a few films including My Blueberry Nights with Jude Law, Natalie Portman and Rachel Weisz. Both women now count Jones as a close friend. Her latest album Little Broken Hearts was a dark collaboration focusing on wounded emotions with musician, producer and friend Brian Burton, also referred to as Danger Mouse, his stage name. They first met when Jones collaborated on Burton’s album, Rome. Norah was born in New York City, as Geetlai Norah Jones Shankar. Her father is Ravi Shankar, the Indian sitar player who performed with the Beatles. Her mother, Sue Jones, was a concert promoter at the time. The pair met, fell in love and had a child: Norah. But the relationship didn’t last and Jones barely knew her father until she was 18. And there won’t be a family collaboration any time soon. “He’s an amazing musician but it’s definitely not something we’re planning,” says Jones. “He plays Indian classical music which is so amazing and complicated and different from what I do.
‘My father and I love and respect each other but it’s hard to just throw us in a room and say “collaborate”’ aMUSEmagazine.co.uk |
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Frank W Ockenfels
‘I went through a breakup right before I made the album… me and my friends are always having the same relationships in the same cycle’
We love and respect each other but it’s hard to just throw us in a room and say ‘collaborate’. I mean, my sister [Anoushka Shankar, 31], she’s a little different. She’s got a lot of the traditional Indian classical influences.” That is far from what Norah had when she and her mother moved to Dallas, Texas, where she was raised. In retrospect, she embraces her Southern upbringing – and still sprinkles her breakfast eggs with lashings of chilli sauce. Her childhood was a world away from her exotic, cosmopolitan, starry origins. “It was the suburbs, it wasn’t on the farm or anything. It was pretty normal.” Music was a great influence growing up: “I loved Billie Holiday, Willie Nelson, Ray Charles, Hank Williams, Dolly Parton, Aretha Franklin...” She cultivated her musical talents, learnt to play the guitar and piano and took part in church choirs. While still at school, she won three awards from a jazz magazine for her pianoplaying and songwriting. It was around this time that she dropped the Geetlai (Melodious in Indian) and the Shankar, and reduced her name to plain Norah Jones. She quit the University of North Texas to become a jazz singer. Norah eventually moved back to the city of her birth in 1999. While she is a Texan at heart, she considers New York her home. “I’m definitely Texan through and through but New York is my home, I’ve lived there for so long,” she says in a thoroughly New York accent. She started out as a lounge singer and played with various artists and bands including Wax Poetic, Peter Malick and Charlie Hunter. With her partner, Lee Alexander, a bassist, she started a band. She hit a high note with her debut album Come Away with Me which sold over 20 million worldwide and swept the Grammy Awards in 2003. But those who expected Jones to metamorphose into a mega-star on the back of her success were disappointed. There was no drunken falling out of nightclubs, no wild tales of drug abuse, and certainly no public shaving off of hair. Jones shies away from the limelight in favour of a closely guarded privacy. The only time Jones does reveal herself is in her music. The relationship with Alexander ended in 2008, though he still performs with her. She then dated a writer whose name she has never
revealed, though at one point she said proudly that he walked her poodle. The relationship ended, messily, and it is no coincidence that her latest album is entitled Little Broken Hearts. “It’s all about relationships,” she confesses. “I went through a break-up right before I made the album, so I feel like it goes around. I find that me and my friends are always having the same relationships in the same cycle.” It wasn’t a solo effort though, since Burton helped with the creative process, the metabolising of raw emotion: “It was a lot of talking [with Burton]. A lot of getting to know each other. A lot of getting inside each other’s heads.” However, you sense that lyrics such as ‘my thoughts are leaving/ I thought you should know/ And maybe powerful actions, powerful feelings/ keep me from going,’ from her song ‘Good Morning’, tell more about Jones’s own emotions on relationship break-ups than she’d be willing to admit. There’s a song about being dumped for a younger woman (‘She’s 22’), one about cheating by both parties (‘4 Broken Hearts’), a description of a confrontation with a new girlfriend (‘Miriam’). “I feel most connected to every album when I am putting it out,” she explains. “Then you move on to the next thing and you feel connected to that. Then you move on to the next thing. You get further and further away from your past but it’s still there. Hopefully when I’m 70 I can pick a favourite, but hopefully not for a long time because I’ll be doing stuff I feel close to, you know?” Perhaps her next album will be a lighter one as Jones is in a much happier relationship these days: “I have a boyfriend. I’m happy. I won’t go into too much detail but I’m happy. It’s a good feeling, you know,” says Jones “It’s funny, writing this album it’s kind of a dark album. But when I made it, I was doing pretty good and had a lot of fun making it. You would think I’d be depressed but I’m not.” Norah is set to perform at London’s Royal Festival Hall this summer. “When the sun is shining in London, it’s pretty amazing. I’ve been lucky enough to be there on some really beautiful days,” says Jones. Anoushka, her half-sister, lives in East London and the two are close. “I’m open to a lot of different things,” she says. “I hope I don’t go down another dark path.” a Norah Jones’ new album Little Broken Hearts is out 1 May on Blue Note/EMI aMUSEmagazine.co.uk |
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Jade Williams (left) and Zara Martin outside The Last Tuesday Society.
‘My style is schizophrenic: “hair and heels” is the way I describe my look’ Zara Martin
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–– My top shop ––
Q: Where do DJ fashion designers shop for stuffed crocodiles?
Make-up: Ian Brown using Chanel S 2012 and Hydra Beauty skincare Hair: Joel Benjamin © Photographer: Dieter Brandenburg
A : T h e L a s t T u e s da y S o c i e t y i n Ha c k n e y o f c o u r s e
J
ade Williams, 23, also known as DJ and musician Sunday Girl, and Zara Martin, 26, who is a DJ, presenter and jewellery designer, met on a photoshoot a couple of years ago and clicked immediately. Jade’s style is, she says, Parisian, classic, tailored and a little bit androgynous: “I always think I dress a bit like a school prefect… or Elvis.” She mixes high street with designer, wears an old H&M suit that “I’ve just kept forever” which she loves because it’s “all chewed up and a bit scruffy”, teamed with a Vivienne Westwood ring and her poodle, Brian. Zara’s style is “schizophrenic: ‘Hair and heels’ is the way I describe my look”. She is influenced by the spiky trio of Jimi Hendrix, Iggy Pop and Daphne Guinness which, today, means she’s wearing Miu Miu heels, a Mauro Grifoni coat, Warehouse dress and headband by Tasha. The girls are launching a joint club night at W Hotel’s Wyld bar called Ooh La La – all Nineties, Destiny’s Child and Backstreet Boys. The crowd will be encouraged to dress up for roaming photographers to snap. Jade’s DJ outfits revolve around a glitzy jacket (hence Elvis). “I have this Reiss jacket; it’s a black suede bomber covered in little crystals. It’s tacky but I love it.” Meanwhile, heel fiend Zara
is keen to introduce a comfy armchair to the DJ booth as “by the end of the night my feet are killing me”. When these girls shop, they shop seriously, visiting an eclectic mix of stores including Kokon to Zai in Golbourne Road (designer Marjan Pejoski created Bjork’s famous 2001 Oscar’s swan dress); Willa Keswick’s Village Bicycle in Notting Hill, Kempton Park Racecourse for accessories (on the first Tuesday of every month), French chain Sandro and, of course, Topshop. Jade’s most recent purchase from the Oxford Circus emporium is a pink and orange neon suit currently hanging on the wall of her Leytonstone home: “It’s art!” Both girls are fascinated by taxidermy and love The Last Tuesday Society – an eclectic Hackney emporium curated by artist Viktor Wynd – spawned from the original philosophical discussion club founded by William James in late nineteenthcentury Harvard, and purveying a menagerie of stuffed animals, birds and curiosities. Of the two girls, Jade takes the more active interest in its wares and counts a stuffed swan, crocodile and an otter as members of her extended family. But don’t tell Brian. SH Jade designed a collection for urban clothing brand Firetrap. Zara has curated an ethical jewellery line for Made at Asos. The Last Tuesday Society, 11 Mare Street, London E8 4RP, thelasttuesdaysociety.org
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Causing a stir: Avenue 32’s co-founders, Roberta Benteler (left) and Erin Mullaney.
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Rags to Riches? Avenue 32 is a new take on designer shopping online, but can Roberta Benteler and Erin Mullaney blow Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet out of the water? Lauren Cochrane reports
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W
hile most of us spent a la rge pa r t of our Christmas break in front of the telly tucking into a plate of leftovers, there was no such luck for Roberta Benteler or Erin Mullaney. Instead, they were hard at work putting the bells and whistles in place for their latest online shopping destination, Avenue 32. “We made a lot of progress over Christmas, while it was quiet,” remembers Mullaney. “It’s still far from perfect but it’s now at a level we’re really happy with.” The fact that Fashion Director Mullaney – an all-American blonde with feline eyes, mega-watt smile and penchant for rock chick chic – doesn’t even mention her holiday plans, speaks volumes about how seriously these two glossy creatures take their new venture. In the works for two years since co-founder Benteler – gamine, sylph-like, German and also blonde – formulated it, the site is based on a real-life shopping street (hence the name) with dif ferent desig ners’ virtual boutiques to visit. An impressive number have already signed up – see London favourites like Giles Deacon and Preen as well as niche labels including pyjama
specialists Poplin and romance-infused Russian brand Vilshenko. “From January till now, we’ve had about 50 brands launch,” says Mullaney, flashing a movie star grin. Not bad for a site still shy of its six-month birthday. This score is partly explained by Mullaney’s clout in the industry. Originally from Virginia but schooled in London, the 35-year-old – who is contemplating a move to Brighton with her sea-loving boyfriend – earned her buying stripes working first at Selfridges, and then at Browns for three years. With a reputation for zeroing in on young talent – “that’s my favourite” – she played a part in the early careers of London-based designers who are now big news: names like Mark Fast, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff. Benteler’s original idea for the site shouldn’t be underestimated, either – she has developed a new take on the business of internet shopping. While a site like Neta-porter buys its stock wholesale and sells it at retail prices, Avenue 32 acts as a kind of benevolent landlord, giving virtual space to designers, who still technically own the clothes. The site then oversees sales, delivery and customer service for the price of a commission. For f ledgling
‘There’s an emotional value to clothes, and people want to see the person behind a brand when they buy something for £2,000’
AVENUE 32 TOP PICKS
PREEN PIXEL MIA SWEATER: £535
PALMER HARDING LONG MESH SHIRT: £290
GILES PLEATED PRINT SKIRT: £550
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W E B WONDE R S
LONDON GIRLS TAKING OVER ONLINE labels, it’s a no-brainer – they get a classy online stockist, while sidestepping the logistics. “The fashion industry is so rigid, especially for young designers,” says Benteler. “Our commission rate is very fair so they earn twice as much as they do with the average wholesale deal.” Matthew Harding, from Palmer Harding, a shirt designer of surpassing architectural skills, has certainly seen the benefits. “The team are really wonderful and extremely supportive,” he says. “Erin has given us such great advice during the infancy of our label. We’re really looking forward to building a strong relationship over the coming seasons.” A designer-friendly philosophy also, of course, works well for a savvy online customer thirsty for new labels’ designs – and this is a woman Benteler knows well. Meeting her for breakfast at the Electric Cinema’s chic members’ bar less than a week after the autumn/winter 2013 shows have ended, she looks every inch the fashion insider – wearing a simple blue knit with Stella McCartney’s much-photographed paisley print trousers – but it’s actually a world still relatively new to her. Working in private equity until 2009, fashion was just a lunchtime obsession for the softly-spoken 28-yearold, who grew up in the small German city of Paderborn, but is now happily settled in West London with her partner. “I wanted to be in fashion all my life,” she says. “My parents said to do finance first and I got stuck. Online shopping and magazines were my way of getting involved, but I was so passionate I felt that it wasn’t engaging enough to me.”
POPLIN GRACE CLASSIC PYJAMA: £110
Name: JULIA FOWLER Age: 29 BIG IDEA: Julia, together with developer (and husband) Geoff Watts, created EDITD – a fashion intelligence database and holy grail of fashion analysis and forecasting. They’ve become a source for major brands and retailers including Burberry, Max Mara and Asos. Besides scouring retail sites across the web to gather details on stock, prices and sizes, EDITD monitors mentions on Twitter, Facebook and blogs, and collects data from key catwalk and trade shows. This information is then ruthlessly organised and presented in a digestible, manageable format. BACKGROUND: Julia hailed from Australia before moving to London. Formerly a fashion designer, she became exasperated by the industry’s lack of data, creating gaps in forecasting and inaccuracies in decision-making. Fashion needed information on what was going to happen, not what had already happened. BACKERS: Last year, EDITD announced a $1.6m seed round led by Index Ventures, known for its investments in online retailers such as Etsy and Net-a-Porter. NUMBERS: Every client subscribes to an annual personalised service from EDITD: the average costs around £15-20,000. The company has been raved about by UK Vogue, Nylon, the Guardian and the Huffington Post. Hardly surprising – it reviews more than two million products and 300,000 opinions every day, directly influencing the pricing and buying choices of major brands in the process.
Name: SARAH WOOD Age: 38 BIG IDEA: The social media entrepreneur founded Unruly Media – an awardwinning social video marketing agency, set up in 2006. Don’t recognise the name? They’re the brains behind the viral campaign for ‘Compare the Meerkat’, and the roller-skating babies for Evian water. BACKGROUND: Sarah graduated from Cambridge before embarking on a range of non-tech career paths – including setting up a tutoring business, working at the Old Vic theatre, running cafés and lecturing in literature at Sussex University. BACKERS: In January 2012, Unruly announced a £16m investment from Amadeus Capital Partners, Van den Ende & Deitmers and the Business Growth Fund – the largest ever shelled out for a private company in the social video space. NUMBERS: With 1,400 campaigns under their belt, and 725 million unique monthly users – as well as offices in New York, San Francisco, Chicago, London, Berlin, Paris, Amsterdam, Stockholm and Sydney – Sarah’s social video venture has made it big. Really big – Unruly’s 2011 turnover reached £5.9m. And to cap it all, Sarah was crowned ‘Female Entrepreneur of 2011’ at last year’s Fast Growth Business Awards. AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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‘So many people told us not to try and compete with Net, but we said “No. It’s all or nothing”’
An idea started to develop with an aim to provide not only the clothes, but also the insider insight, for others like her. “It’s frustrating [shopping online] because you see these design names and they don’t mean anything to you, you don’t know if it’s a woman or a man, it’s so product-based,” she says. “I think there’s always an emotional value to clothes and people want to have that insight when they buy something for £2,000. When you see the person behind the brand, it builds loyalty, I think.” Along with killer catwalk pieces, customers get access to the fashion world – which can seem closed to outsiders. The ‘Insider’ section of each designer’s boutique takes you to behind-the-scenes content ranging from a pretty short film from Palmer Harding to holiday snaps from jeweller Zara Simon and backstage shots from Preen. Add an intelligent, fun magazine put together by ex-Nowness. com editor Rebecca Guinness, featuring wardrobe essentials from perennially chic French actress Joana Preiss, interviews with artists, musicians and chefs, and cartoons from illustrator, Jo Radcliffe, and the site starts to look very bookmarkable indeed. Avenue 32 is a welcome addition to fashion’s online marketplace – but can it ever eclipse other digital powerhouses like Net-a-porter, Asos and newer members’ site, Moda Operandi? While Natalie Massenet might not be quaking in her Manolos just yet, there are signs that Avenue 32 is on a route to online success. Now boasting a team of 20, traffic has tripled since they launched, and the average spend on the site is a solid £500. Ambition isn’t lacking, either. “So many people told us not to try and compete with Net,” says Mullaney, eyes flashing. “‘Don’t go into ready-to-wear, you should just do accessories or just jewellery.’ But we said ‘no – it’s all or nothing’.” Benteler chooses her words carefully when asked about her competitors. “I think they’re all great,” she says. “But there is so much space in the online market. I think one of the big things about us is that we want to give customers more of a choice. Neta-porter, for example, they’ll buy five styles. We try to buy more of the whole collection to give the customer more of an idea of a younger designer.” Ultimately, keeping a pre-fashion Benteler alive is the secret to Avenue 32’s success. The new Benteler might be living the dream, attending fashion weeks and hanging out with designers, but the old one – mad about fashion but stuck behind a desk in a corporate environment – is the woman the site is speaking to. “I always try and put myself back into that position, being the shopper and what I liked, what I felt attracted to,” she says. “She’s our customer,” adds Mullaney. “And that’s the best way to build a business – on someone who actually really knows it.” Mission, quite possibly, accomplished.
Name: Paulina Bozek Age: 35 Big Idea: Showing the world that video gaming isn’t just boys’ territory, Paulina is rapidly gathering kudos as a lead player in the online tycoon world. Having taken social gaming by storm with the Singstar franchise, she’s now CEO of Inensu which makes games for social networks and smartphones. The company is pioneering Closet Swap - an online forum for swapping clothes easily and for free – and the Superfan Facebook app (first embraced by X-Factor’s One Direction), a social music platform for teenagers. Background: An MSc graduate of the London School of Economics, Paulina won a BAFTA for her creation of the Singstar Franchise in 2005. Prior to that, she was senior producer at Sony Computer Entertainment Europe and a development director at Atari. Oh, and she’s also now a member of the BAFTA Video Games committee, and once challenged Beyoncé to a singing competition. Backers: Closet Swap has been commissioned and funded by Channel 4. Inensu has not taken external investment. numbers: The Singstar franchise has sold over 20 million units worldwide and accumulated $500 million in revenue. The Superfan Facebook app now brings 50,000 fans together each month to play games, watch videos and follow their favourite stars wherever they are in the world, virtually.
Name: Anna Powell-Smith Age: 31 Big Idea: What Size Am I? – an app allowing the user to see what clothes size they really need in all the major fashion stores. French Connection, Topshop, Banana Republic... she’s got them covered. Background: Anna studied English at Cambridge, before returning to do a Masters in Computer Science. Anna has also created the first free online folios of the Domesday Book – providing a wealth of history at our fingertips – and an online study on how travel time to London by train affects house prices. Backers: An independent programmer, Anna is making her mark on her own terms. Beside her solo projects she does freelance work for groups including start-ups such as ScraperWiki – a community helping programmers and journalists work together – and non-profit groups like the Open Knowledge Foundation (the open data campaigners). Numbers: As well as acclaim from the Guardian, Mail, Mirror, the Economist and Wall Street Journal online and on BBC breakfast television the What Size Am I? app amassed more than 200,000 users in six weeks. Furthermore, her free online Domesday folios pull in around 12,000 users each month.
Names: Alice Hastings-Bass and Rebecca Glennap Age: Both 28 Big Idea: Alice and Rebecca founded Lux Fix – a luxury e-commerce site, and the only website that provides its customers with current-season offers from top-end luxury fashion brands. Background: Both girls started out in the City: Alice is a former investment banker for Goldman Sachs; while Rebecca worked in digital marketing. They dreamt of a site that would cherry-pick only the most exciting deals and chic new pieces of the season. Lux Fix was born. Backers: Around £100,000 of funding from private individuals. Numbers: Their concept has pulling power – Lux Fix boasts a database of at least 5,000 subscribers. What’s more, the pair have built a portfolio of over 40 luxury brands including Peter Jensen, Pringle of Scotland and Angel Jackson. POLLY GLASS
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AMUSE
PROMOTION
15 % OF F plus free delivery www.whitestuff.com
GET YOUR SUMMER WARDROBE SORTED! White Stuff is a fashion and lifestyle brand selling women’s and men’s clothing and accessories in over 100 UK shops and online too. Approaching each season with a sense of fun, White Stuff aims to ‘make the world a little happier’ with in-shop cinemas, book clubs and the annual National Wear a Tea Cosy on Your Head Day. Summer’s here, so White Stuff invites you to celebrate all things British. The new Cinnamon Club collection features warm paprika shades and plenty of craft y embroidery and textures. The illustrative prints and easy separates are lovely for your holidays! White Stuff are offering you an exclusive 15% off and free delivery. Just fill out the form below and take it into your local shop or sign up online at whitestuff.com and quote ‘amuse’ at checkout.
fill out this form and take it to your local White Stuff shop to receive exclusive offers and event invitations by post and email, or register online at whitestuff.com title....................first name......................................................surname................................................................................ address..............................................................................................................................postcode........................................ email............................................................................................................................................................................................ please tick here if you do NOT want to hear from friends of white stuff shhh! visit whitestuff.com for our full privacy policy AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59 15% off, free delivery and returns valid until 31st May 2012 in White Stuff shops or online at whitestuff.com. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or in our outlet or concession shops. One time use |only.
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Promotion50_51_57.indd 59
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ACCESSORIES SPECIAL
‘I love shoes and jewellery, but you
cram your life into your bag. It says a lot about you, so choose wisely’ ——— Gwyneth Paltrow, superstar, mother and fashion insider, is a handbag addict – so why won’t she take one to the Oscars? The actress tells Sophie Gilbert about clutch bags, trend setting and orange Crocs
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ACCESSORIES SPECIAL
Previous page: Willis bag in pink and vachetta, £275 This page from left to right: Madison Tossed Laser Cut Sophia £475; Madison Gathered Leather Lindsay, £545
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Photographer: Peter Linbergh Styling: Elizabeth Saltzman Hair: David Babaii Make-up: Leslie Lopez
This page: Kristin Woven Leather Round Satchel, ÂŁ475
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ACCESSORIES SPECIAL
‘I
’m probably the same as every woman when it comes to accessories, and particularly handbags,” says Gwyneth Paltrow. “I always start out with good intentions and wind up carrying way more than I wanted. By the end of the day you think to yourself, ‘what’s in here?’” The 39-year-old star of Shakespeare in Love and Iron Man and mother of Apple, 7, and Moses, 6, has become easily one of the best-dressed women in London, whether she’s on the school run in gold Esquivel brogues and jeans, or on the red carpet wowing the crowds in a show-stopping floor-length Elie Saab emerald glitter column dress. But, as she says, “accessories are key in creating a look, but none more so than a handbag. I love shoes and jewellery, but you cram your life into your bag. Your bag says a lot about you, so choose wisely.” As well as being a loyal carrier of Coach bags, for whom she is the face, she’s a fan of Alexander Wang and her flight bag of choice is a grey Wang tote. Louis Vuitton and Prada also find a perch on her capacious handbag shelves for daytime. In the evening, she likes to wear her bag slung over one shoulder and for that it’s Stella McCartney, or a sleek black patent Roger Vivier clutch. “She likes fun, not whimsy, or si l l i ne s s ,” s ay s E l i z a b e t h Saltzman, contributing editor of Vanity Fair, and a close friend of Paltrow. For three years she has been styling Paltrow, actress wife of Coldplay’s Chris Martin, during which time Paltrow’s red carpet style has developed into a sophisticated art. She’ll wear a pastel Roger Vivier shoe with feathers on it, but you wouldn’t catch her in smiley-face shoes. However, as Saltzman says, “she’ll pretty much try anything, and she always has a bag with her, except at the Oscars, because she’s frightened she’ll catch herself looking at her BlackBerry while she’s on the red carpet”. This year’s Oscars were certainly a triumph for Paltrow. While Angelina Jolie was parading her pallid left leg in heavy black Atelier Versace to worldwide amusement, and the normally luminous Bérénice Bejo was downright frumpy in a beaded aqua frock, Paltrow shone in pure white, spotless, immaculate Tom Ford. It was a dress and cape that Saltzman had chosen for her. “It’s always nerve-wracking to pick a dress for The Oscars,” Paltrow told her
Goop website. “It’s one of the (if not the) most scrutinised red carpets. This year Elizabeth called me and said there was only one dress, and it’s true. The gown and cape by Tom Ford were just right.” “She’s a beauty,” explains Saltzman, “and she’s almost 40. She’s classic, not edgy, but her clothes can have some edge. After all, she lives a cool existence, she loves rock, she loves music and dancing. On the red carpet she’ll just be waiting for the moment when she can relax, sit down with her husband and tuck into a dirty martini.” She might have added ‘and slip off her heels’, for the shoes Saltzman teamed with the pure white column dress were, unusually for Paltrow, by Jimmy Choo. They were gold, old-Hollywood style and as high as you can go, with a 14.5cm heel and a 2cm platform. As for jewellery, on that day, Paltrow glittered in $2m of diamonds by jeweller Anna Hu in the form of a three-inch diamond cuff and a floral ring. At other times, she’ll wear necklaces by the LA-based designer Loree Rodkin, or put on something more casual by Isabel Marant or Lanvin, a ring by the young British designer Rosa de la Cruz, or a couple of Monica Vinader bracelets - she wears £10 million or £10 worth of sparkle with equal aplomb. However, on an ordinary day, when she isn’t styling herself on Jackie Kennedy at the 1961 Inauguration Ball (Kennedy wore white, and a cape...), Paltrow’s learnt to play it safe. “These days,” she says, “it’s all about a uniform. I love classic items updated with simple pieces, a necklace, a sandal, a handbag.” That translates as a black maxi dress, white shirt and tan Givenchy sandals, or jeans, a nautical striped top and black Coach bag. And given that in Hampstead she does the school run twice a day without fail, she’s trying to blend in with the North London mothers, rather than stand out like the star she is. “Style means knowing what works for me. I learnt early on that following trends is not always the way to go. What’s flattering to you is what’s fashionable.” That said, when she’s completely off duty, Paltrow confesses to a fondness for “a New York Yankees hat, but you have to be careful what city you wear it in...and orange Crocs, like my friend [New York chef ] Mario Batali wears.” Though hell will freeze over before Saltzman lets her set foot on a red carpet in a pair. a Coach, 74-76 Regent Street , London W1 opens 27 April
‘These days, it’s all about a uniform. I love classic items updated with simple pieces, a necklace, a sandal, a handbag’
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accessories SPECIAL
Shopper, £185, Mary Portas & Radley (radley.co.uk)
Bag, £1,195, Balenciaga (brownsfashion.com)
Leather pyramid clutch, £335, Jil Sander(feathersfashion.com)
Camice bag, £650, Sportmax (matchesfashion.com)
The 25 brightest bags of the season
Candy picnic bag, £355, Furla (furla.com)
Fran Mullin takes her pick
Clutch, £59.99, Zara (zara.com)
Clutch, £562.13, Rochas (luisaviaroma.com)
Clutch, £150, Whyred (whyred.se)
Clutch, £2,250 Nancy Gonzalez (harrods.com)
Colbolt sling bag, £555, Alexander Wang (liberty.co.uk)
Crocus aqua bag, £245, LK Bennett (lkbennett.com)
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Bag, £335, Milly (neimanmarcus.com)
Mandarin bag, £917, Salvatore Ferragamo
(stylebop.com)
31-Hour bag, £695, Phillip Lim (philliplim.com)
Shoulder bag, £1050, Jason Wu (jasonwustudio.com)
Shoulder bag, £250, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk)
Day bag, £1,560, Ermanno Scervino (ermannoscervino.it)
Madeleine patent leather duffle bag, £1,370, Chloé (net-a-porter.com)
Mallaury bag, £257, Comptoir des cotonniers (020 7792 9580)
Mini satchel, £249, Vanessa Bruno (asos.com)
Mini Harper bag, £224, Diane Von Furstenberg (matchesfashion.com)
Bag, £1,185, Lanvin (brownsfashion.com)
Pandora bag, £1,082,
Givenchy (ln-cc.com)
Pandora Bruce clutch, £595.99, Charlotte Olympia (charlotteolympia.com)
Alice neon resin box clutch, £1,075, Stella McCartney (net-a-porter.com) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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field study 8 3
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Flower girl
Make your wardrobe a garden of earthy delights for summer, says Fran Mullin
DRIES VAN NOTEN SS12
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15
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1. Ring, £180, Kat and Bee (katandbee.co.uk); 2. Shoes, £407, Camilla Skovgaard (matchesfashion.com); 3. Top, £265, Stella McCartney (liberty.co.uk); 4. Brooch, £650, Carole Tanenbaum for Atelier-Mayer (atelier-mayer.co.uk); 5. Shirt, £430, Araks (shop.araks.com); 6. Dress, £355, Preen (my-wardrobe.com); 7. Scarf, £100, Hoss Intropia (hossintropia.com); 8. Clutch, £40, Topshop (topshop.com); 9. Dress, £700, Mary Katrantzou (stylebop.com); 10. Skirt, £225, Acne (brownsfashion.com); 11. Shirt, £685, Hermione De Paula (my-wardrobe.com); 12. Cologne, £72, Jo Malone London Blooms Collection (jomalone.com); 13. Trousers, £110, Reiss (Reissonline.com); 14. Shoe, £461, Nicholas Kirkwood Boutique (0207 2901404); 15. Skirt, £110, Whistles (houseoffraser.co.uk)
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trends
3 6 4 5
7
1920s 8
2 9
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Twenties something Don’t get in a flap, go back to Gatsby for your style inspiration, says Fran Mullin
14 PHILOSOPHY DI ALBERTA FERRETTI SS12
13
12 11
1. Dress, £1,085, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti (net-a-porter.com); 2. Necklace, £60, Hoss Intropia (hossintropia.com); 3. Ballet Flat, £173, See by Chloe (my-wardrobe.com); 4. Bracelet, Price on request, Miu Miu (020 7409 0900); 5. Resin Shell Bag, £18,000, Chanel (0207 493 5040); 6. Dress, £995, Bora Aksu (boraaksu.com); 7. Hat, £185, Helen Kaminski (helenkaminski.com); 8. Gloves, £40, Atelier Mayer (atelier-mayer.co.uk); 9. Headscarf, £150, Missoni (liberty.co.uk); 10. Dress, £850, Sass & Bide (net-a-porter.com); 11. Shoe, £445, Maison Martin Margiela (luisaviaroma.com); 12. Skirt, £200, Antik Batik (stylebop.com); 13. Shoes, £635, Tabitha Simmons (brownsfashion.com); 14. Dress, £339, Day Birger Et Mikkelsen (houseoffraser.co.uk)
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Pleating pleasures
It’s all in the folds, gathers Fran Mullin
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PRADA SS12
13 14
1. Cropped top, £540, Neil Barrett, (thecorner.com); 2. Women’s Antler Brass Chunk bracelet, £380, Maison Martin Margiela (ln-cc.com); 3. Leather pleated skirt, £540, Theyskens’ Theory (020 7985 1188); 4. Pleated flower scarf, £489, Valentino (harrods.com); 5. Pleated printed cotton skirt, £455, Proenza Schouler (net-a-porter.com); 6. Sunglasses, £251.70, Linda Farrow, (luisaviaroma.com); 7. Cut-out detail top, Mugler, £865 (thecorner.com); 8. Pleated dress, £180, paul & Joe (my-wardrobe.com); 9. Dress, £818, JW Anderson (matchesfashion.com); 10. Pleated shirt, £250, Ischiko (liberty.co.uk); 11. Pleated Dress, £1,895, Burberry Prorsum (matchesfashion.com); 12. Pleated silk skirt, £705, Salvatore Ferragamo (stylebop.com); 13. Pointed Heels, £503, Alexander Wang (luisaviaroma.com); 14. Pleated top, £95, Pleats Please by Issey Miyake (farfetch.com); 15. Pleated dress, £969, Fendi (farfetch.com); 16. Pointed heels, £125, JW Anderson for Aldo Rise (selfridges.com); 17. Pleated midi-skirt, £45, John Zack (houseoffraser.co.uk); 18. Belt, £93, Cacharel (asos.com)
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BOVEY CASTLE. YOU’VE ARRIVED.
Bovey Castle is history, excitement, glamour and adventure.
We offer our guests luxury and indulgence, but this is not a stuffy hotel where you can’t sit on the furniture or let your kids enjoy themselves. Bovey Castle is where you can live out your dreams, then put your feet up.
www.boveycastle.com
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trends
3 5
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materials
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Plastic fantastic
It’s a tale of the unexpected with metal collars, plastic handbags, wooden shoes and neoprene skirts says Fran Mullin
BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE SS12
12
17
2
14
13 16
15
1-Perforated Sequin Skirt, £950, Nicole Farhi (020 7499 8368) 2- Bag, £325, BAO BAO ISSEY MIYAKE (44 207 495 2306) 3- Top, £515, Charles Anastase (brownsfashion.com) 4- Collar, $2,800, Delfina Dellatrez (openingceremony.us) 5- Wood Platform Boots, £907, ETS-CALLATAY (ln-cc.com) 6- Jacket, £785, Eudon Choi (avenue32.com) 7- Cuff, $1,400, Delfina Delettrez (openingceremony.us) 8- Neoprene Skirt, £39.95, H&M (hm.com-gb-) 9- Shoes, £79.99, Zara (zara.com) 10- Solid Perfume, £25, M·A·C & Marcel Wanders (maccosmetics.co.uk) 11- Recycled Leather Scrunchie, £5, Rokit (rokit.co.uk) 12- Hair Ring, £187, Bjorg (kabiri.co.uk) 13- Womens Parasuit Gilet, price on request, Christopher Raeburn (shop.christopherraeburn.co.uk-) 14- Necklace, £230.73, Ineke Otte (luisaviaroma.com) 15-Silver Trousers, £360, Theyskens’ Theory (020 7985 1188) 16- Golf Bag, Price on request, Alexander Wang (start-london.com) 17- Patchwork Trench, £4000, Aquascutum (0800 282 9222)
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A
SEAN CONNERY AND ASTON MARTIN DB5 DURING THE FILMING OF LOCATION SCENES FOR ‘GOLDFINGER’ IN THE SWISS ALPS. - © 1964 DANJAQ, LLC AND UNITED ARTISTS CORPORATION. WWW.BARBICAN.ORG.UK/BOND
T
m a n
a b o u t
NICK COX
t o w n
Let’s raise a glass to the death of the hoody
he party’s over guys, or at least the one to which you wore a slogan t-shirt and some ‘funky’ jeans. Something is clearly afoot in the style stakes if a guy in his twenties will scour his grandfather’s wardrobe for a blazer, or you can be mugged by a bloke dressed like Sean Connery’s James Bond. ‘Youth’ style and fun fast fashion have given way to the influence of the more considered looks of heritage brands with their clever cuts and subtle masculinity. Patrick Grant, Creative Director of E Tautz, also sees this strong “movement away from fussy gaudy clothes towards simple beautiful items”. This return to quality should see bonfires lit from John O’ Groats to Land’s End and piled high with faded, skinny, carrot and bootcut denim. Buy a pair of dark Levi 501Z instead. These straight-legged replicas of a shrink-to-fit jean from 1954, are the perfect (slim but not too tight) fit. Casual scarves wound snakelike around the neck are best left to rock stars and chimney sweeps these days. Sharp, skinny, knitted ties with their flash of colour are now the best way to anchor an outfit. Richard James has great block-colour options, or for more jazzy stripes, visit THIS RETURN TO Drakes or Etro. Purists should sport a QUALITY SHOULD SEE crisp white pocket square from Spencer Hart and wear it in a club blazer from the BONFIRES LIT FROM 1775 range by Wolsey. This revisited JOHN O’GROATS TO Suits you, sir: Sean Connery as the immaculate James Bond. classic has a sleek silhouette, comes half LAND’S END AND PILED lined, and features matt brass buttons. It will ensure that any time of the day is gin HIGH WITH FADED, o’clock. Toby Bateman, Buying Director SKINNY, CARROT AND their grooming habits. Carmelo Guastella at Mr Porter.com, also champions blazers BOOTCUT DENIM from Melogy salon has seen a marked with “less structure and a more relaxed increase in young guys looking for “clean fit”: new label Boglioli are “neatly cut, unlined, and perfect for summer” structured hairstyles that reference Fifties’ quiffs or he says. slick side parts”. At Murdock London the same men are Choosing the right bag can often be less clear-cut. Shouldn’t rucksacks having traditional wet shaves or buying Captain be reserved for commuters and manbags for camping? Really, are ‘totes Fawcett’s Moustache Wax. amaze’? Katie Hillier, a creative consultant for accessories, sees the But keep it relaxed: ‘this isn’t ‘dad dressing’, just’ an logo-free briefcase as a very elegant choice for men, as “even when a guy appreciation of the subtleties that come with age. has to hold it by its handles, it makes his posture straight and sharp”. Looking sharp isn’t about chasing fads, fashion or even With its vintage style lock and removable key bell, a tan leather briefcase spending a fortune any more, it’s about the details: from Ralph Lauren ticks all the boxes, and the supreme style of a Dunhill great hair, the best jeans and the perfect cut of jacket Bourdon Double Document Case will take some beating. Nick Cox is a style consultant and editor of Men who understand provenance and quality are also extending this to thegroomingguide.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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‘The Art Fund’ is the trading name of the National Art Collections Fund, a charity registered in England and Wales (209174) and Scotland (SC038331). The National ArtPass is issued to Art Fund members, subscriptions start from £50.
50% off major exhibitions including: Lucian Freud Portraits at the National Portrait Gallery. British Design 1948–2012 at the V&A. Damien Hirst at Tate Modern. Buy your National ArtPass at artfund.org
Download our free Art Guide app and find great art wherever you are, whatever your interest.
U n n a t u r a l
b e a u t y
BETHAN COLE
R
The welcome return of the scarlet woman
ed lipstick – why do I love thee? I think it’s possibly because that small bow of red bears accretions of so many other wonderful red things: post boxes, old telephone boxes, Routemaster buses, Napolina plum tomatoes, Beauty of Bath apples, ripe cherries, the shoes in Powell and Pressburger’s The Red Shoes, the ruby slippers in the Wizard of Oz. I think my favourite reds of all are in early Technicolour films though: where a lot of the hues – sky blues, mint greens – seem bleached out and ‘pastelised’, apart from an intermittent ‘ping’ of jolly, piquant scarlet. Actually, you can correlate this paradigm with this season’s fashion because a satinised shot of jelly-bean red lipstick looks absolutely great with the La Duree pastels on offer at labels like Louis Vuitton and Meadham Kirchhoff. The last time we saw this combination was in grainy Face shoots from 30 years ago, where pastel-toned mini-crinis from Westwood or defunct young designer paradise Hyper Hyper were teamed with peroxide hair, fierce eyebrows and red, red lips. ‘Red lipstick girl’, as I dub her, ran riot in the Eighties, her plucky apogee/ embodiment was Westwood muse Sara Stockbridge, like an Enid Blyton heroine gone punk. But of course her real genesis ‘A SHOT OF was during the Forties and Fifties JELLY-BEAN LOOKS ‘golden age’ of Hollywood: Rita Hayworth, Bette Davis, Marilyn Monroe ABSOLUTELY GREAT all wore red as did countless longpencil, although towards the end of the WITH THE LA DUREE forgotten cheesecake pin-up girls of the decade there were signs of a return. John PASTELS ON OFFER Bettie Page ilk. Red lipstick girl of this Galliano’s Vargas girls-inspired collection AT LABELS LIKE era was winsome and rosy-cheeked and for Dior in 1997 was a turning point. The LOUIS VUITTON’ glamorous in a wholesome sort of way. make-up – designed by Stephane Marais The Fifties gave way to the Sixties: a – was an emboldened play upon the decade that was pretty much red-lipstick free – it was the era of the potency of red: flushed cheeks, carmine eyes and scarlet blank-lipped beatnik and the make-up bereft hippy. But it returned, lips. It set the precedent for the decade to come. For in the radical and glossy, in the Seventies on models including Jerry Hall, Marie Noughties red-lipstick girl’s time had come again, with Helvin and Cheryl Tiegs and on the femme fatales in Guy Bourdin and resonances of the Eighties and Fifties to boot. Not perhaps Helmut Newton shoots. Seventies red-lipstick girl was fast and racy and in the mainstream beautification of the Wags and Katie dangerous and vampy. Red in that decade signified sports cars and desire, Price but in slightly more counter-culture heroines such as or the lacquered American capitalist triumph of the Coca Cola can. Skip Dita Von Teese and Gwen Stefani. And in recent weeks to the Nineties and red-lipped girls vanished once more. This was a even Madonna (the WE premiere) and Angelina Jolie decade of clear lipgloss and Bobbi Brown naturals, of Clinique’s Black (Golden Globes) which might suggest it is having its time Honey lips ( a naturalistic sheer purple-y brown) and of MAC’s Spice lip in the limelight once more. AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Facial injections in Three areas Includes two compulsory injections on the forehead, (worry lines and frown lines) and a choice of either crows feet or eyebrow lift.
ÂŁ150
Usual Price ÂŁ599*
*Offer is to be booked and paid for by end of June 2012 and procedure taken by end of August 2012. Suitable for all skin types. Must be 25+
www.vagheggiacademy.com
0845 6060423
Harley St. 10 Harley Street, London, W1G 9PF
Chelsea 205 Kings Road, Chelsea, London, SW3 5ED
Windsor 13a Goswell Hill, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1RH
Beauty TOM FORD NOIR ABSOLUTE FOR EYES - £25
BOBBI BROWN LONG-WEAR GEL EYELINER IN BLACK INK - £16.50
A little treasure-pot of eyeliner, it contains blue optics to brighten the whites of the eyes.
A cult-product among make-up artists, once this gel liner is on it does not budge.
LAURA MERCIER CAVIAR EYE LINER IN MIDNIGHT - £18.50
Use a wet angled brush to apply to roots of lashes. Great for applying to the waterline.
SHU UEMURA PAINTING LINER IN VIOLET - £20
Don’t shrink from violet. Purple is wonderful for bringing out blue eyes, though anyone can wear it. This cream liner is long-lasting and can be built up to create a bold look.
GIORGIO ARMANI MAESTRO EYELINER - £22
ILLUSTRATION BY KIRSTEN WILSON
A pen with a good strong tip that gives you total control.
ESTÉE LAUDER DOUBLE WEAR GEL EYELINER IN MIDNIGHT - £15.50
A subtle, almost greyblue, perfect for a soft daytime look.
CHANEL LIGNE EXTREME IN ONYX - £22
Fantastic for ‘tight-lining’ the eyes, a good black with a super-fine brush. Apply direct to the roots of the lashes, or even on top of eye pencil to intensify.
YSL SHOCKING EYELINER PEN - £24
A brilliant pen to keep in your handbag for instant glamour. A true dense black with a fail-safe applicator tip.
DIOR STYLE LINER IN NOIR - £21.50
A lovely shiny black liquid liner for creating easy feline flicks.
SHU UEMURA EYELINER BRUSH - £16.50
Shu Uemura make the best brushes and this fine eyeliner brush will help you create precise graphic lines.
The LINE of BEAUTY
Heavy black eyeliner is glamorous, flattering and surprisingly easy to wear reports Arabella Preston
A bold, graphic eyeliner is flattering and timeless, and yet one of the easiest looks to wear, allowing you to keep skin pared down and lips bare. This extreme version seen at the Jonathan Saunders SS12 show was created by international make-up artist Lucia Pieroni who had a ‘slightly unhinged 1950’s Miami housewife’ as her reference point. But there’s method behind the madness. Pieroni feels this bold eyeliner, “has a strong uptight feel about it that lifts the face”. Well, it’s simpler than surgery. To re-create the look she suggests the following: “You need to lightly conceal and powder the eyelid. Then using an angled brush apply a cream black liner along the length of the eye flicking it up towards the brow. Work eye by eye rather than completing one first. It is much easier to get the symmetry right this way. Small cotton buds with pre-soaked make-up remover are useful for correcting any mistakes.” The sort of eyeliner you use is key here. Pieroni advises: “You need a waterproof cream liner. Clé de Peau, MAC and Bobbi Brown all make great long-lasting liners...This is essential to keep the look strong and in place.” If you’re attempting a reduced, more everyday, version of this look then liquid liners in pen or inkwell form, such as Chanel or YSL versions, are fantastic for easy, on-the-go application. AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Beauty JO MALONE AMBER & LAVENDER BATH OIL, £38
OLE HENRIKSEN LAVENDER BODY OIL, £31 AT HARVEY NICHOLS
Typical of Jo Malone’s innovative approach to fragrance, lavender and amber make for a heady and intense combination. Add a few drops to your bath and your skin will be wonderfully scented and moisturised.
The massage oil used at the Ole Henriksen Spa, this sesame, almond oil and lavender blend is best rubbed into skin after showering.
COWSHED KNACKERED COW RELAXING BATH & BODY OIL, £20
Relax and unwind with this soothing blend of lavender and eucalyptus. Either pour under warm running water in the bath, or massage into wet skin as it can also be used as a massage oil.
PURPLE HAZE
From stunning perfumes to soothing massage oils, lavender is infinitely versatile says Arabella Preston
DR HAUSCHKA MOOR LAVENDER BODY OIL, £17.95
The texture of this body oil is luxurious and creamy. Lavender essential oil is combined with shea butter and jojoba oil making it excellent for sensitive and dry skin.
NEAL’S YARD LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL, £5.90
The purist’s choice. You can add drops of this Lavender Essential Oil to your bath, favourite body cream or even your pillow.
JURLIQUE LAVENDER BODY CARE LOTION, £26.50
A lightweight, non-greasy lotion, for easy day-to-day moisturising. The lavender scent is lovely and subtle so won’t compete with your perfume.
GREEN & SPRING LAVENDER SHOWER & BATH FOAM, £18
TOM FORD PRIVATE BLEND LAVENDER PALM FRAGRANCE, £125
Free from artificial colours, fragrances and parabens this relaxing shower and bath foam combines lavender with the nurturing properties of comfrey and rosemary.
A heavenly blend of lavender, citrus and moist palm leaf accord. This latest perfume launch by Tom Ford is also genuinely unisex. A perfume icon for the future.
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Fiorelli Play Woven Shopper Bag £85 Fabris Lane Florida Sunglasses £35 Lowie Nautical Sailboat 100% Silk Scarf £78 Get the look – check the website
Limited offer: 20% off our fabulous range With a Best Price Guarantee and Free Delivery. Use code ACCESSORY at checkout to claim your discount. Offer excludes sale items, ends 31st May 2012.
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Beauty OSKIA GET UP & GLOW, £64.50
TOM FORD INTENSIVE INFUSION CONCENTRATE, £185
This oil-based serum contains the most concentrated form of the Tom Ford Infusing Complex. Smooth gently into clean skin and let the serum’s rejuvenating properties brighten and freshen your skin.
The innovative British brand is getting some well-deserved attention. This lightweight and brightening serum contains MSM to aid collagen production and soothing butterbur to reduce redness and irritation.
THIS WORKS PERFECT SKIN SUPER MOISTURE, £22.50
A unique formula that moisturises as well as providing the power of a serum. Containing natural ingredients like shea butter and evening primrose oil, as well as hyaluronic acid to revitalise dull skin.
CHANEL HYDRA BEAUTY SERUM, £59
A moisturising serum with hyaluronic acid for a gentle plumping effect. Provides a great base for make-up.
The SECRET INGREDIENT
Use them instead of moisturiser, as a base for foundation, or even a cure for rosacea: serums are the new quick fix says Arabella Preston
ONCE a luxurious extra, face serums have become an essential part of our skin-care routine. Each makes a different claim: some tackle rosacea, pigmentation or acne, some ‘brighten’ dull skin. Pick one to suit you. For maximum benefit, apply directly to clean skin and add moisturiser on top where needed. Serums make a fantastic base for liquid foundation as the super-fine texture is easily absorbed and won’t leave your skin looking greasy.
DECLEOR AROMESSENCE IRIS OIL SERUM, £55
Perfect for mature skin, this floral oil is 100% natural. Massage in gently then apply pressure to the recommended key facial energy points (a guide is included). REVIVE SERUM PROTECTIF, £110
Perfect for city living, this protective serum creates a shield against pollution and other external irritants.
DIOR ONE ESSENTIAL SKIN BOOSTING SUPER SERUM, £75 ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR, £41
The little brown bottle is 30 years old this year and to celebrate Estée Lauder has launched this limited edition. Apply at night and wake to brightened, restored skin.
Applied before moisturiser to clean skin, this Skin Boosting Super Serum from Dior firms the skin and creates radiance.
SKINESIS BY SARAH CHAPMAN OVERNIGHT FACIAL, £45
Uber-facialist Sarah Chapman has created a signature line for Skinesis. This easily absored Overnight Facial serum oil repairs daily damage as you sleep.
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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The
sun
KING
ne
aga to Rosie Hunting G y an tonm Lad hion Tan, she g W o hiteley, oes raw e v om Fas e w n h e s r F a e tells Stephan traight H . s ie H to J rs ame ed sta irsc e s Re hm h t a d o , bronzer t ille r ho w to fak t ei
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“I
flew to Switzerland once to tan a client. The flight was paid for, and the hotel too, just for one lady to have a tan for half an hour. And I remember being picked up by her driver, getting to the hotel, looking out at Lake Geneva while sipping a glass of champagne and thinking ‘actually I’ve not done too bad for myself…’ ” James Read, 35, is the go-to tanner for everyone from Lady Gaga to Mariah Carey, Paris Hilton to Courtney Love, Lara Stone to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (yes, he was the man responsible for those flawless honeyed limbs in her Burberry Body Campaign). He’s bronzed faces at the Academy Awards, the BRITs, the Grammys, the Baftas. And London Fashion Week. Last year he sprayed 50 models in two and a half hours for the Topshop Unique show – “it was,” he says, “the craziest thing ever.” Given his high standards of craziness, it must have been quite an insane experience. Read has hit his stride just as the bronzing market booms. These days, the global sun protection and sunless tanning market is worth a whopping $701 million, practically double its 2005 value (Mintel), while here in the UK, Debenhams reported a 219% spike in the sale of tanning products last year following the Royal Wedding, with everyone wanting to ape Pippa Middleton’s golden glow. Tanning fashions have, of course, changed since Coco Chanel first caught the sun on the French Riviera in the 1920s. There was the Coppertone tan popularised by Jodie Foster’s ad campaign in the Sixties – which pretty much did what it said on the tin and had everyone looking day-glo orange. There was the pre-cancer age of
innocence in the 1970s when people emulated Farrah Fawcett or Elizabeth Taylor, doused themselves in baby oil and put silver foil collars on to reflect the sun under their chins. Cue a shudder from Read who is evangelical about sun screen. Then there was the golden age of the Nineties supermodels and, of course, the ultradark WAG tan of the Noughties. “I’m not into that over-dark tan,” admits Read, “If someone asks for it, I’ll refuse to do it. I want people to look healthy.” But while, thankfully, products have come a long way since the ‘you’ve been Tangoed’ look, there are still some tanning tragedies about: “I’ll see someone on the train with streaky legs or dodgy feet and ankles and wish I could start correcting it for them then and there,” sighs Read. It’s only really over the past four years, though, that tanning has gone bespoke, according to James: “Now, it’s all about the tan that’s right for you, one that matches your skin tone.” The choices on James’ tanning menu at his salon in Agua Spa at the Sanderson Hotel in Central London, aim to do just that, but in typically quirky style: A Weekend Away, A Week in Europe, Two weeks in the Caribbean, and then there’s the Fashion Tan inspired by front row editors for whom he’ll simply tan any exposed areas from pins to décolleté. He also takes his cue from the catwalk, and for SS12, his looks of choice are the Neon Tan and the Luxe Tan he created for the
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‘I wouldn’t go out in the evening without a tan on my face. I’d feel naked’
PPQ and Jean Pierre Braganza fashion shows. For Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker’s Dallasinspired PPQ collection, the skin had the sparkle of a Ewing diamond, and the Art Deco ‘sheen of the Braganza girls’ complexions offset the geometric prints. These looks were respectively achieved by using products on top of a base tan – light-reflecting glitters that are skin-toned “so you don’t look like you’ve just been dipped in a Christmas card” and adding gold illuminators to give the skin a luxury, flawless look “so you literally want to lick it up and down”. It’s not bad for a boy who left Kent for London at 18 and the bright lights of the Bridal Registry department of John Lewis. His background may be ordinary – his mother and stepfather are counsellors – but he was always a drama lover and thought nothing of staging fainting fits to win attention during school plays. Following a brief stint at catering college, James joined the gilded world of tanning via a job with St Tropez on the shop floor at Debenhams. “I fell into spray tanning because someone was off sick. As a kid, I was always obsessed with products; even when I was nine or 10 I used to put my mum’s Nivea cream all over my face, but I’d never realised how much I loved the beauty industry until that moment.” Through his work with St Tropez, James gained a following of magazine editors including Glamour’s Jo Elvin, UK Vogue’s AnnaMarie Solowij, Grazia’s Jane Bruton and US Vogue’s Sarah Mower. They all flocked for his trademark layering technique (in which he builds up a tan in ultra-fast, ultra-fine increments so the ‘weekend away’ is two layers and ‘two weeks in the Caribbean’ is six) and he was soon working on magazine and TV shoots with his first celebrity spray, Tamzin Outhwaite, before graduating to the big league of fake tan with Paris Hilton and Mariah Carey.
“Then I got a call saying ‘a celebrity wants a tan, you probably don’t know her but her name’s Lady Gaga…” That was when she first came out in London. She was really enthusiastic and passionate and I knew right from the minute I met her that she was going to be a big star.” Three years ago he opened his salon at The Sanderson Hotel’s Agua Spa with the help of a backer who approached him via Twitter. And he practises what he preaches: “I wouldn’t go out in the evening without a tan on my face – I’d feel naked,” he admits. Unsurprisingly, he wears a lot of black but his palms are miraculously free of tell-tale orange stains. On a recent trip to Barcelona, he forgot his fake tan and dragged his partner of six years, Shane, round the city for the best part of a day hunting down a replacement – Chanel in case you’re wondering. Not content with owning the fake-tanning world, Read wants to elevate tanning to a beauty discipline in its own right. He has plans to open a tanning academy and launch Britain’s first self-tanning awards. And then there’s the small matter of conquering America. “We didn’t have much when I was a kid but I used to watch Dynasty and have always been driven by the idea of drinking champagne in the bathtub of a 20-bedroom house like Joan Collins and knowing that I’ve done it.” He’s not far off... a Aqua Spa, Sanderson Hotel, 50 Berners St, London W1T 3NG, 020 7300 1414; thetantalist.com. James Read’s new home-tanning line launches 1 June at Harvey Nichols and QVC, from £18.50
T R Y T HE SE AT HOME JAMES READ Gradual Tan Face in Light - Best for the handbag - a bb creamcum-tanner which also comes in a pen £18.50
James’ home-tanning tips •
• • • •
•
BISCUITY SMELL: caused by the DHA ingredient reacting with the skin. Although fragrances can be used to mask it, Read’s products are fragrance free – preferable, he says, to another scent fighting against the DHA odour. ORANGE PALMS: use a tanning mitt. Please! STREAKS: mainly caused by wearing latex gloves. A tanning mitt is preferable but if you must wear gloves remember to keep your palms and fingers together. DARKER PATCHES ON KNEES AND ELBOWS: moisturise these areas before you apply as the skin is drier. OVER-TANNING: it’s a good idea to run a wet wipe over your neck, armpits, wrists and ankles before you apply. Those are the areas on which a previous application will linger. It might not be visible to the naked eye but will be highlighted by a new application. BLOCKED PORES ON THE FACE: run an ice cube over your skin before you tan to seal the pores. You can also apply a thin layer of moisturiser 15 minutes prior to tanning and then wipe it off just before application.
HE-SHI Express Liquid Tan - Best quick fix - the speedy route to summer skin £37
CHANEL Perfect Colour Face Self Tanner - Best for face the perfect face cream to add to your daily routine £29
FAKE BAKE Fair Self Tanning Lotion - Best for fair skin - a subtle way to kick start your summer look £22.50
ST. TROPEZ Self Tan Bronzing Mousse Best for body - an easy-to-apply mousse for the more seasoned tanner £33
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MY MOTHER, THE REAL
BETTY D DRAPER More shocking even than Don Draper’s womanising is his ex-wife Bett y’s mistreatment of their daughter, Sally. As we hunker down for season five of Madmen, it’s all a bit too real for Rebecca Fraser, who sees her own mother reflected back every time she switches on
“I
don’t want you in my house.” I’d been back in my parents’ house for less than three days. And this was my mother talking as she stuffed crisps into her mouth in an attempt to control her anger. I was there to see my father for a few days. And it was four days before Mother’s Day. Most daughters would be shocked by what my mother said. But the harsh words were almost a relief to hear – there was no pretence in our relationship anymore. For Betty Draper could have been modelled on my own mommie dearest. Like Betty, she’s impeccable on the outside, always well-dressed and always perfectly made-up. As a wife she’s remote and as a mother, specifically to me rather than my sisters, she’s cruel, mocking and spiteful. Before season five of Mad Men aired, I had already been gorging on old episodes. But I began to find what I saw on screen so disturbing it was more like a documentary than fiction. For although my childhood was geographically different (I was brought up in central London not in the swish suburbs of New York), watching the relationship between Betty Draper and her daughter Sally was like watching a retro US version of the relationship between me and my mother. The dynamics were the same; for my mother’s formative years were in the Fifties and Sixties and she brought that into her marriage with my father with whom, unlike Betty, she still lives. Back in the world of beehives and conical bras, Betty, formerly Draper now Francis, is a perfectly manicured, dutiful wife who put AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Admittedly, she never locked me in a wardrobe, as Betty has done to poor Sally. My mistreatment was more subtle than that. But I was constantly in thrall to her, and seeking her approval. For the problem with a narcissist – which I would suggest is what both Betty and my mother are, is that you can never make them happy. When I won school prizes, it was my father who took my photo and PERFECTING THE ART celebrated. And as an adult this has continued. “Children with a narcissistic mother often strive for their mother’s love or acknowledgement by achieving OF THE DRAPER PUT-DOWN highly, which they hope will make the mother feel successful in having raised It looks ? them,” explains Dr Moffett. “Sadly, these successes don’t replace the support and at th ng ri u wea “Why are yo s old) ar ye n mirroring essential for a child to develop a deeply felt understanding of his or her ve se as w ridiculous” (I to be kept waiting" sy own worth and value.” True: my mother always expected me to do more, and bu d) o ar "I am to lay on a w l consultant as I ita sp ho y e m es e better. It leaves an ache in my solar plexus. se th (to ivia is so full of tr “That paper my first piece appeared in a Although my mother had a successful career, she gave it up to support my y days” (on the da ) father in his own, more demanding and more lucrative work, and they would er national newspap use-sit? " be able to ho ill n) st io u often travel on business. By the time my sisters were 15 and 17, my mother at er yo op ill r ajo "W m about to have a (on hearing I was rly saw you coming" stopped arranging proper childcare; she would leave me aged 13 to be watched ea "Well they cl s) er ow fl of over by two sisters who had little interest in my wellbeing, for days at a time. h nc a bu h (when I gave her broke up wit he d se ri They were rarely home and I would be on my own, terrified of our large, dark, rp to "I'm not su ally got much re t n' ve ha u empty house being broken into. you, yo anatory) offer" (self-expl I was scared, lonely and illequipped for such a way of life. There was an implied message from my mother: ‘you are not up with her husband’s infidelity until she wanted and I don’t care enough could no longer carry on and left him for about you to arrange for you to be looked after’. a safer, less attractive option. She has three children, Sally, Bobby and Eugene, and Like Betty, my mother’s looks loves them apparently in reverse order. were important to her, and, while And young Sally Draper is fearful of her not quite a January Jones, she was mother. She tries to read into her mother’s a good-looking woman, and reactions what she has done wrong and what she can do to repair always flirting with waiters, the garden designer, garage mechanics... it. This was me for most of my life. And like Sally, there’s not much I would sit and cringe – it was inappropriate, embarrassing but she was flexing her power to humiliate my father. I can do about it because I believe the fundamental anger my mother feels is that, like Betty, she didn’t want a girl. In Betty’s perfect So where was my father in all this? As hands-off as Donald world she should have given birth to a son first. As the last daughter Draper; not chasing skirt, perhaps, but old-fashioned. He didn’t in a trio of girls, my mother didn’t even bother to shield her really take much notice of my relationship with my mother until he retired and he saw what was going on close at hand. And then disappointment, favouring my sisters, telling me in detail what she he would defend me. He realises now what a mess they made of and my father had planned to call the boy they were expecting and where they were expecting to have him educated. They didn’t my childhood, why I have struggled to form relationships and how the trauma of her abandonment and bullying has affected me. decide on a name for me until I was a year old, and they never When Sally is older, she can look forward to Betty flirting with bothered to get me christened. I realise now that none of this was her boyfriends and putting her daughter down in front of them. my fault. But as a child how was I to know that, let alone understand That is what my mother did to me and although they argued that it? And this, in the long term, most certainly had an effect on my it was inappropriate, my mother, in some crazy way, gave them behaviour and shaped my future. But was the damage, despite not permission to dismiss me, which they then did. Or maybe it was being physical, enough to do long-term damage to my brain? Apparently, the answer to that is yes: “Current neurobiology and the other way round, and I was attracted to other narcissistic attachment research is confi rming what therapists have long bullies? And as my mother gets older, according to Moffett, it’s believed, that our earliest relationships impact not only our going to continue downhill, something I had noticed already. personality styles but also the very development of the child’s brain,” “There is a growing concern that some essential features of explains psychotherapist Dr. Jane D. Moffett. narcissism - lack of empathy in particular - may become more Friends have told me now how they were embarrassed and pronounced with ageing.” alarmed by how sharp my mother was with me or how she mocked My childhood was tough, but I do have high hopes for Sally me. By the time I was 10, she’d stopped arranging birthday parties Draper; that someone will help her understand that her mother’s for me saying she was ‘too busy’ and left it to my sisters to sort out. behaviour is nothing to do with her. If I’d had someone on my I never knew, nor will I know, what she was, and continues to be, side to explain that I was not always to blame, it could have saved so busy with. me decades of heartache. a
* * * * * *
‘By the time I was 10, she’d stopped arranging birthday parties for me, saying she was too busy’
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Sophie Gilbert experiences the highs of Lausanne at the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel on Lake Geneva
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Everyone raves about Swiss mountain air, and there’s no need to abandon the country just because the ski season’s over. As Lord Byron discovered two centuries ago, there’s an excellent alternative to button lifts and chalets: Lake Geneva. Half way along its elegant crescent sits Lausanne, a most dignified and ancient university town with a 13th-century cathedral on the hill. This dominates a cityscape that swoops down the hill to dip its toes in the crystal waters of the lake. On the shore, in pole position to catch the best of the views over to the French side with its far-off misty mountains, is the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel. This gigantic white weddingcake of a building brings to mind 19th-century promenades, during which guests would watch as a paddle-steamer carved its elegant course through the waves. Then you scan the sparkling waters on the horizon and there, in front of you, is a beautiful paddle-steamer doing exactly that. In fact, our view of the gigantic boat was more dramatic than this since we’d rashly taken one of the pedalos for hire to intrepid tourists and huffed and puffed out to well beyond the warning buoys into open water. We avoided the ignominy of being mown down and retreated to the safety of the Beau Rivage, our thigh muscles screaming, and took refuge in the steam-rooms and jets of the thalassotherapy spa. We then trotted up to our room, which turned out to be quite the most glamorous suite imaginable. A mix of ultra-modern and comfortingly old-fashioned, it had huge windows overlooking, yes, you guessed it, the lake, and a floating staircase leading up to an electrically powered trapdoor opening onto the roof for yet more panoramic views of mountains, water and Gothic city. When Byron and the poet Shelley tried to sail from Lausanne to Geneva, a storm broke their rudder and nearly sank their boat. We were clearly better off with the pedalo. Rooms from £420 a night. Beau Rivage Palace, Place du Port 17-19, CH-1000 Lausanne 6. www.brp.ch
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the GREAT GAME
Inspecting sunbirds through crystal-studded binoculars, watching lions pad past your tented spa, or saddling up for an elephant adventure, it’s all part of the show in the Serengeti National Park, says Lisa Grainger
When Middle Eastern royalty want to safari in privacy – in the sort of luxury to which they are extremely accustomed, Sasakwa camp is a natural choice. There is no camp like it: an over-the-top romantic colonial extravaganza of silk Persian carpets, antique furniture, silver candlesticks and four-posters – situated in a vast tract of bush bordering the Serengeti National Park in northern Tanzania. One of four camps in the private Grumeti Reserves, owned by American Paul Tudor Jones (Wall Street tycoon and one of America’s leading philanthropists), Sasakwa is constructed on open grasslands within 350,000 acres of pristine private game reserve, heaving with animals, from trumpeting herds of elephant and lion that pad by at night to tiny brilliant-coloured sunbirds. The private guides – among the best in Africa – accompany guests on walks and game drives at dawn and late afternoon (after tea, scones and still-warm cakes, served up on silver platters); in between game activities, there is a pool to wallow in and shaded verandahs on which to lounge and admire vast African savannah views. There is also, naturally, a tented spa-room in which to take massages – and indulgences that include gramophones, Swarovski-crystal-studded binoculars, flower-strewn baths and a library of coffee-table books. Tudor Jones also has one of the finest stables on the continent, and his steeds can be saddled up for a week’s horse safari, riding from camp to camp and exploring different parts of the reserve every day, or taken out for just a few hours of game viewing. For those of a more nervous disposition (cautious about canvas walls and the close proximity of the Big Five), accommodation options include an uber-glam colonial-style lodge (Sabora), a chic, contemporary riverside bush retreat (Faru Faru) whose sliding glass walls keep wild critters out without compromising on the glorious views, and, from June, a private homestead. Singita Sasakwa costs from $850 per person per night, all-inclusive (www.singita.com).
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aMUSE
abroad
MEXICO: For baby banditos
Located in Riviera Maya, Mexico, the Maroma Resort & Spa has gone all family friendly. There are treasure hunts, mini-Maya yoga, a family swimming pool and a games centre to enjoy during the day. And at nighttime there are essentials such as mini-me slippers, small kaftans and cookies and milk at turndown. Special children’s menus as well as colouring books and crayons will be available at the restaurants. And when you need a break, there’s babysitting upon request. Nightly rates at Maroma Resort & Spa start from £695 based on two adults and two children under 12 sharing a Garden View Master Suite on a bed & breakfast basis. To book visit www. maromahotel.com or call the Orient-Express reservations team on 0845 077 2222
The hottest stops... the must-do destinations... let us take you there
NEVADA FOR FOODIES The Strip isn’t the place you’d immediately think of for a gourmet break, but this annual food festival hosted by Bon Appétit magazine takes over where the roulette wheels stop. This being Vegas, there is obviously a slight element of gambling, though, and events do include the Celebrity Chef Poker Tournament. 10–13 May 2012 weekend, vegasuncorked.com
What a MALDIVE...
Situated on the Maldives’ Vagru Island, this 61-villa resort from the Viceroy group offers villas overlooking the sea with private plunge pools. Known for creating stylish spaces for Tiffany, Bergdorf Goodman and Carolina Herrera, Yabu Pushelberg was commissioned to design the interiors of the complex. And there’s a great range of Maldivan-inspired spa treatments. Packages start at £4,799, viceroyhotelgroup.com
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The FEZ SEASON
From the Atlas mountains to the ruins of Volubilis and the capital Rabat, this tour highlights the history of Morocco. Start off in Marrakesh where you can explore the markets of Djemaa el-Fna, gardens, ancient palaces and historic steam baths. The trip continues to Fez with its mosques, artisan workshops and universities where there’s plentiful shopping for ceramics, copper vessels and stamped leather. The next stop is Meknes to explore the ruins of Volubilis. From £1,090 per person, World Expeditions, worldexpeditions.co.uk; 020 8545 9030
BAY WATCH Experience the true luxury of Antigua’s Jumby Bay, with these newly-built homes on the estate. Available for rent or purchase, the privately-owned properties feature a large pool, private beach and tennis courts. Guests and owners have access to the resort’s facilities and services that include housekeeping, restaurants, bars, pools, spa and fitness areas. British Airways has one nonstop flight per day out of London Gatwick to Antigua. It departs Gatwick at 10:40am and arrives in Antigua at 2:05pm, just in time to hit the beach for cocktails at sunset! Prices starting at £7,250/night, Virtuoso Agency Classic Travel Service, classictravel.net
PISSARRO’S PARIS Art lovers can discover a new Paris with the French Impressionism tour in which art specialists guide them on a truly cultural journey. From a visit to the gardens at Giverny to the Musée de l’Orangerie des Tuilieries and Musée Marmottan-Monet, this is a journey back in time to the Salon des Refusés. From £4,740, orient-express.com
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Welcome back to Wapping.
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Providing a range of beautiful suites, one, two and three bedroom apartments; as well as gym, spa, hydrotherapy pool, cinema, concierge and underground parking. Just a few minutes from the City to the west and Canary Wharf to the east, 21 Wapping Lane presents a unique opportunity to live and invest in this wonderful neighbourhood.
The luxe fix
What are we looking at? Hamilton Terrace, St John’s Wood. Can I afford it? Hmm, well at £37,500,000 it may be one for the Euromillions win. Sell it to me... An imposing new-build house, all contemporary glamour behind a period façade in leafy St John’s Wood. We like the sound of the lower ground floor with its own leisure complex, complete with pool, steam room, gym and ‘luxurious massage/ treatment room’. Want to know more? Call Savills on 020 7472 5000, or visit savills.co.uk
Shoreditch thing
What are we looking at? Batemans Row, Shoreditch. Can I afford it? £2,750,000 is grown-up money for a young area. Sell it to me... This five-bedroom penthouse is so hot it has won awards for its architects, Patrick Thais and Soraya Khan. And there’s a vast walk-in wardrobe to house all your skinny jeans and trilbies. A brilliant way to start life as a well-heeled hipster. Want to know more? Call 0800 369 8667 or visit foxtons.co.uk
Four floors From a multimillionaire’s pad in St John’s Wood to loft living in Hoxton, Polly Glass discovers London’s top properties
Rooms with a view ready to go
What are we looking at? 41 Queen’s Gate, South Kensington. Can I afford it? It’ll set you back £25,000,000. A bit on the steep side then, but it is pretty... Sell it to me... There’s a redeeming, period feel to this 12-bedroom über-house (over 15,000 sq ft). It’s for sale with all the art, furniture and luxury goods in situ. So you can move right in. The property offers buyers a ‘luxury lifestyle’ solution with pool, spa complex and impressive entertainment spaces (cinema, billiard room etc). Want to know more? Call 020 7758 8488 or visit hamptons.co.uk
What are we looking at? Coptain House, Riverside Quarter. Can I afford it? Quite possibly: it’s a snip at £1,995,000. Sell it to me... This spacious threebedroomed apartment in Wandsworth’s Riverside Quarter has communal gardens and some of the best views in London – just imagine sipping your coffee on a spring morning while looking out at the Thames from your own spacious balcony. Want to know more? Call 020 7629 8171 or visit knightfrank.co.uk aMUSEmagazine.co.uk |
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A FAREWELL TO TAUPE
The queen of interior designers, Kelly Hoppen, has given her Notting Hill home a surprisingly monochrome new look, Stephanie Hirschmiller gets the lowdown
“I
live in a Georgian house in Notting Hill and have done so for the last four years. I used to live in Battersea and decided to move here because I love the area. I also work in Notting Hill so getting to work is very convenient. I gutted the house so that it was an empty shell and then I rebuilt the inside. I wanted to keep the original features so the exterior and sash windows stayed the same. The house itself has great proportions and I was able to rework the interior space to incorporate everything I love best – a kitchen/diner (complete with a huge jar of white marshmallows) as it’s
great for socialising, a living room that can be either cosy or glam, a tranquil bedroom and a gym for early morning workouts. When I designed my living room, I created the whole room around this gorgeous black vintage coffee table I bought from Talisman. All the colours, texture and shapes in the room reflect the style of the table so it makes for a really beautiful centrepiece. I have crystals dotted around the room which my daughter, Natasha Corrett, gave me to fend off bad energy, but one of my favourite pieces is a big photo of Marilyn Monroe because she is a woman I greatly admire – she was so intriguing,
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GE T T HE K E L LY HOPPE N LOOK…
CORBIS MARILYN MONROE, framed art portrait £101.65 overstock.com
mysterious and powerful. It’s by Gene Kornman. I also love my Bleu Nature acrylic cubes with coral inside – I designed them as well. I have always loved working with coral, and exhibiting it in this way really makes for a really striking piece of art: simple yet beautiful. I get my inspiration everywhere – but it’s mostly when I’m travelling and relaxing and my mind isn’t racing from one thing to the other. My favourite room is my bedroom – it’s my haven. I just love the whiteness and freshness of it. The 3D sculpture is by Julie Cockburn – it’s called Butterflies – and then my centrepiece is made from old-fashioned Playboy magazines. I purchased both many years ago at the Affordable Arts Fair. Other places that turn up great finds are Alfie’s Antique Market, Sunbury Antiques Market at Kempton Racecourse and Portobello Market on a Friday which I especially love for its one-offs. To be honest, I don’t ring the changes at home as much as I used to as I just don’t have enough time. I do change certain things depending on the season, though. For example, today I am changing my bed-cover to a more summery option and I’ll also change the curtains and accessories in the dining room and entrance to give them a fresher feel. It’s hard to separate my work from my home life as the two are pretty connected but then again, it’s all about a mind-set. I need to enter my home after work in the right frame of mind so I can relax and recharge my batteries. talismanlondon.com; kemptoninteriors.com; alfiesantiques.com; portobellomarket.org
KELLY HOPPEN BY WELTON LONDON PARFUMS, SCENTED CANDLES From £38 weltonlondon.com CRYSTALS FROM LONDON FOSSILS & CRYSTALS Celestite group, £160. Amethyst standing cluster, £100 020 3268 2268 london-fossils-crystals. co.uk
PAIR OF 1970’S WILLY RIZZO ‘FLOATING’ COFFEE TABLES IN BLACK LACQUER WITH CHROME EDGING AND ICE WELL can be sold separately £3,200 dasilvainteriors.co.uk
KELLY HOPPEN PAINT COLLECTION from £21.99 grahambrown.com
TABLE LAMP FROM TALISMAN LONDON Large Single Rougier Lamp in a Lily shape with Three Petals Canada late 1970s £2,300 020 7730 7800 talismanlondon.com
HYDRANGEAS FROM ABSOLUTE FLOWERS Vases from £40, bouquets from £50 absoluteflowersandhome.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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at home
D I Y DECORATION MENAGERIE CERAMIC MEDIUM BIRD BOWL JADE BY JONATHAN ADLER £104 08700 240 780, heals.co.uk
INTERIOR LIFE
Jonathan Adler, 46, is a New York-based interior designer and author. Known for his quirky, colourful home furnishings, Adler married his longtime partner, Simon Doonan, author and Creative Ambassador-at-large at Barneys. The designer is a selfproclaimed Anglophile who loves getting lost at the V&A and lives for The Ivy’s roast chicken. He set up his first international shop in Brompton Cross, SW3.
In need of some interiors inspiration? Look no further than this gorgeous book - packed full of sumptuous photography and friendly, practical advice. Described by its author as ‘not a how to, but a why not book’, it helps you do just that – expert or total novice. You’ll lust after the rich spreads of favourite rooms of noted designers and tastemakers (including Mary MacDonald, Albert Hadley and Nate Berkus) Divided into chapters such as ‘Balance’, ‘Colour’ and ‘Accessorising’, it’s an approachable guide. Whether you have a vision and need help realising it, or just don’t know where to begin, this is well worth a read.
Be Your Own Decorator by Susanna Salk is out now published by Rizzoli, £29.95
WHAT IS ON YOUR DESIGN RADAR AT THE MOMENT?
I’m mad for brass, brass and more brass! WHAT INSPIRES YOU?
People always ask me that and, to be honest, it’s an impossible question to answer. I’m inspired by so many things – it could be the shape of a seashell or a bit of graffiti. I get tons of ideas from travel and I get lots of ideas in my sleep. I try to keep my eyes and my mind wide open.
HOMES WITH THE X FACTOR
DO YOU HAVE A MUSE?
My muses are the holy trinity of Bonnie Cashin, Alexander Girard and David Hicks. All of them created work with a singular and eccentric vision. DO YOU HAVE ANY DESIGN RULES?
Only a few: be bold, take risks, and most important of all – lots of soft lighting. It takes years off your visage. WHAT SMALL TOUCHES CAN A PERSON MAKE TO UPDATE THE HOME?
Clean! Rearrange the furniture, restyle your bookshelves, get some new throw cushions, layer, layer, layer!
LIGHT FANTASTIC
Decadent yet minimal, contemporary yet classical – we love this gorgeous Bourgie chrome-plated table lamp from Kartell. Designed by Ferrucio Laviani, it is sure to add a classy flourish to any interior. Also available in a gold, black, white and crystal £296, ariashop.co.uk
Exhausted by the clutter in your own home? Get a breath of fresh air, and some chic minimal ideas, from one of the best in the industry – Jennifer Post. Pure Space presents 20 exquisite, high-end interiors designed by Post, all embodying her serene design values and ‘pure space philosophy’. Clean lines, white surfaces and an immaculate eye for contemporary elegance combine effortlessly in her approach. The first monograph of the go-to interior designer for Jennifer Lopez and Simon Cowell, this book offers a serious treat for the eyes – a neat slice of minimalist luxury and sophistication. New York lofts, Palm Beach villas, Miami highrises, white swimming pools, Post has acquired a worldwide reputation for her peaceful, seamless creations that strip the fuss and chaos away from interior design. What’s left is awe-inspiring modernist creations – pure, soothing, expertly put together and a very classy example of A-list minimal style.
Pure Space, Elegant Minimalism by Jennifer Post Text and Introduction by Anna Kasabian Rizzoli, out April, £30
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46894_Helium Advert_. 04/11/2011 12:46 Page 1
Helium Foundation offers a way to build a collection of contemporary art that is both highly personalised and catered to aesthetic interest. By investing in art, individuals are able to diversify their portfolio and make profit on capital far beyond that offered by traditional institutions. Investors worldwide have taken notice of the rising prices in the art market regardless of the turbulence in the property or stock markets. Rare and unseen works by the worlds most celebrated artists as well as many well known editions. Artists include: • Banksy • Damien Hirst • David Hockney • David Shrigley • Ed Ruscha • Julian Opie • Nick Walker • Richard Prince • Shephard Fairey • Takashi Murakami
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We manage all aspects of art collecting from buying, selling, exhibiting and valuations.
For further information contact us on 020 7404 7667 or contact@heliumfoundation.com
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Damien Hirst
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24/04/2012 16:15
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Riverside Quarter invites you to its
uite Marketing S Sunday Open Monday to
000 Or call 020 8877 2 for an appointment
Shop, dine, live, swim and relax on the river -
Bright, spacious 1, 2 and 3 bedroom Thames-side apartments Contemporary interior design with impressive specification Secure underground car-parking River taxi, underground, railway and shuttle bus services Concierge and porterage Private residents pool, sauna and gym On-site restaurants, delicatessen and convenience store Completions from December 2012 to March 2013
Book an appointment
020 8877 2000
Mon - Fri 11am - 6pm, Sat - Sun 11am - 4pm Sales Gallery, Milliners House, Eastfields Avenue, SW18 1LP
www.riversidequarter.com
THE FIFTEEN MINUTE
meal
Stopwatch at the ready. Rowley Leigh, chef-patron of Le Café Anglais, challenges you to cook a two-course meal in a quarter of an hour. He’s tried it, we’ve tried it, and it works. Ready, steady, go!
VICTORIA MOORE’S TOP PICKS
WITH THE SALMON AND GINGER... MON R AW SAr L D ress ing w ith G inge
(S ER VE S 4)
I’ve done this quasi-Japanese effort with tuna and mackerel as well as salmon - all with great success. Customers in the restaurant always imagine there’s some great secret to the dressing. Here it is, in all its embarrassing simplicity: chop the aromatics very finely by knife, and not in a food processor. 1 TBSP FINELY-CHOPPED GARLIC • 2 TBSP FINELYCHOPPED FRESH GINGER • 3 TBSP FINELY-CHOPPED SHALLOTS • 50ML LEMON JUICE • 150ML JAPANESE SOY SAUCE • 200ML SUNFLOWER OIL • 300-400G SALMON FILLET, SKINNED • CHOPPED CHIVES 1 Mix the garlic, ginger and shallots with the liquids but do not try to emulsify them. 2 Wash the salmon and remove bones, scales and skin. Cut downwards across the grain as thinly as you can (it helps to give the fish ten minutes in the freezer first to stiffen it a little – do not freeze). 3 Lay the slices on very cold plates and spoon the dressing around. Sprinkle chopped chives on the dressing and serve with dry pumpernickel or rye bread.
Darting Estate Riesling 2011 Germany (12.5%, M&S, £8.99) The apple-like joy of a good German riesling is a good foil for Asian flavours. This one is so delightfully fresh and it’s just off-dry, too.
WITH THE SKIRT STEAK....
Domaine Anne Gros et Jean-Paul Tollot La 50/50 2009 France (14.5%, Lea &Sandeman, £13.95) What happens when two renowned Burgundy growers make a cinsault, carignan and grenache blend in the Languedoc? This: spicy, polished and very French, so perfect for skirt steak with shallots. Victoria Moore, wine columnist for The Telegraph, is the Louis Roederer International Wine Writer of the Year.
SK I RT STE AK w ith Sh a llots (S ER VE S 4)
Good skirt steak is hard to find but is worth seeking out. Beware, though: it turns to sisal matting when overcooked. 6 SHALLOTS • BUTTER • 2 GLASSES RED WINE •OIL • 900G SKIRT STEAK 1 Peel the shallots and cut them into fine rings. Colour these in a little butter in a hot, heavy-based frying pan. When they are golden brown, add two-thirds of the wine and transfer the mixture to a saucepan. Simmer to reduce by half. 2 Wipe the frying pan dry, add a film of oil and heat until very hot. Season the steaks well and cook for about two minutes on each side: they will cook quite quickly. 3 Transfer to a warm plate. Add the remaining wine to the hot frying pan, scrape up the juices and boil until wellreduced. Add the shallot sauce, season and pour in the juice from the steaks. Whisk a little knob of butter into the sauce, return the steaks to the pan to warm very briefly and serve immediately with a green salad.
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–– This month’s muse –– ’s Alessandra Venice; birthplace, da the Leonardo the n at Vinci cartoo lery National Gal
Which woman most inspires you? A confident, ironic and surprising woman. In fact all women that have a natural, clever charm, without tricks. If I had to mention one, I would say Diana Vreeland. Which Londoner most inspires you? Natalie Massenet of Net-a-Porter. She had a vision and went for it even when the dotcom bubble was bursting. I remembered this when I started in fashion just as the global economic crisis began. Whose style do you emulate? Perhaps the women painted by Boldini, or a fairytale princess. Whose style do you avoid? I avoid any style that takes itself too seriously, irony is important for me. Where do you go to think? I can be thoughtful and reflective anywhere, even at the supermarket. Where do you go to relax? My home is my ideal place to relax, it is a sort of cocoon for me. Where do you go to drink? I enjoy meeting friends at the Connaught bar once in a while. Where do you go to feast your eyes? The ballet. I am inspired by the movement and the emotion – it’s the most intense experience for the eyes. Where do you go to feast your soul? A bookshop, a theatre, a cinema or a museum. Londoners are incredibly lucky to have such a wealth of shows and exhibitions. The parks and small gardens. Which three shops can’t you resist? Christian Louboutin on Mount Street, W1
Alessandra Rich Samantha Cameron’s favourite designer picks her inspirations
rtraits of the il Beaton’s po A One of Cec V& e th at en Que
at Polyphonia pera the Royal O House. Scott’s Seafood at
Virginia’s Antiques on Portland Road, W11 The windows at Graff on Bond Street, W1 Which shows have you seen most recently? I saw the Cecil Beaton exhibition about The Queen at the V&A last week. I love photography and when I’m there I always stop to have a look at the jewellery as well. Which restaurant did you eat in last? Scott’s - I had oysters. What is your life philosophy? Live a lot. What advice would you give to your 16-year-old self? No advice on life choices, but maybe a few suggestions about my look. Where do you go to escape from London? The Veneto, the place where I was born, in between the countryside and the wonders of Venice. What do you miss when you’re away? Porridge. I can’t start the day without it. Who would play you in the film of your life? Rooney Mara, she is an actress whom I find beautiful but different from me. What would you put on the 4th plinth? The statue of William IV. At the end of the day it was built for that. What’s your favourite work of art in a London gallery? The Virgin and Child with St Anne and St John the Baptist by Leonardo da Vinci at the National Gallery. This fantastic monochromatic drawing is so intense and full. alessandrarich.com
VENICE/GONDOLA: MATTEO NEGRINI, FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS. BALLET: BILL COOPER LEONARDO DA VINCI, THE VIRGIN AND CHILD WITH SAINT ANNE AND THE INFANT SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST (‘THE BURLINGTON HOUSE CARTOON’), ABOUT 1499-1500, © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON
ft: From top le t; sene Natalie Mas St; the Graff, Bond bar Connaught
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Photographer: Beate Hansen; Š 2010. Model: Charlbi. Dress by Karma Highway
Embrace Nature. Choose Cotton. www.discovercottonusa.com BS0873 Muse 300x220mm (30 April 2012) 1.indd 1
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WWW.PERRIER-JOUET.COM
Paper fresco by American artist Jo Lynn Alcorn for the House of Perrier-Jouët. It conveys the fresh, floral character and remarkable elegance of the cuvée Belle Epoque.
ENJOY PERRIER-JOUËT RESPONSIBLY
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