Textile Portfolio by Amy Diaz-Hablich

FULL CYCLE SUSTAINABILITY ð

TEXTILE PORTFOLIO

AMY DIAZ-‐HABLICH

Fibers

Cotton is one of the most natural fibers used. The cotton is harvested from the cotton plant. 2

Cotton Environmental Issues v “About 25% of the world’s insecticide use more than 10 percent of the world’s pesticide goes to cotton crops.”5

Cotton is the most pesticide intensive crop in the world.4

How Cotton plants affect communities

v “The chemicals used are considered to be the most toxic chemicals in the world.”5

In many countries, cotton is still handpicked; therefore anyone working in those fields is exposed to extreme amounts of toxic chemicals. These chemicals can also affect the affect others in the community once they have seeped into the water supply. With so many products made out of cotton, we are all exposed to these chemicals at some point 5

v “Health risks of pesticide exposure include birth defects, reproductive disorders, and weaker immune system.”5 v Water is an issue with conventional cotton production o Crops use intensive irrigation system o

The largest water user among agricultural crops 5

Organic Cotton Benefits of Organic Cotton

v Increase in biodiversity due to less indiscriminate killing of bugs6

Single cotton stem from an organic plantation. 8

v No toxic and persistent chemicals 6

v Organic uses natural, local materials for composition/ soil maintenance6

How effective is Cotton?

v Less water consumption; organic is most likely to be rain fed6 v Less water contamination; no excess chemicals leaching into groundwater or contaminating surface water6 v Working environments are better6

Drawbacks of Organic Cotton v Expensive7 v Supply chain is limited7 v Shrinkage not stabilized7

“Grown from a seed, cotton can be a sustainable and organically grown crop. Cotton accounts for 40 percent of global textile production, nearly 7 percent of all labor in the developing world. If all the cotton in the world were grown organically, the use of insecticides could be reduced by 25%” 9

Which Cotton is better? Neither Conventional nor Organic cotton is perfect. However, the world of sustainable production is growing more each day, and we are finding newer and simpler ways to create quality goods. 11 Cotton turned into yarn. 10

Fabrics

Polyester is a durable, easy-‐care synthetic fabric. It is used in many products, including clothing, draping, and carpeting. 13

Polyester Environmental Issues

v “Polyester requires petroleum and other chemicals to produce, as well as energy to heat and power the process.” 15 v “Polyester is a petrochemical-‐ derived polymer, meaning its base product is crude oil.” 16 v “The environmental impact of crude oil is well established. The drilling of oil is polluting in itself, but also increasingly expensive, dangerous and damaging to ecosystems both on land and at sea. “16 v “As oil becomes ever more scarce the price of producing polyester also will increase.”16

The principle ingredient used in the manufacture process of polyester is ethylene, which is derived by petroleum.14

Polyester Fabric Disadvantages

v It is not as comfortable; it keeps sweat close to your body. 17 v Manmade fabrics don’t allow air to ventilate.17 v Allows fungi to grow if the polyester fabric is worn too close to the body for long period of times.17

Bamboo Benefits of Bamboo v v v v v v

Fast growing and renewable material “Bamboo grows well with just rainwater; no additional irrigation is required” 17 “Bamboo grows rapidly and naturally without any pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers” 19 Antibacterial and anti-‐fungal. Due to a bacteriostatic agent, it is only unique to bamboo plants. Bamboo is biodegradable “Bamboo absorbs 35% more carbon dioxide”19

Drawbacks of Bamboo v “Bamboo is fast becoming a cash crop with vast areas of land given over to bamboo production, where it is grown as a mono-‐ crop. This can lead to an increase in pests and the need for pesticides” 17 v Chemical processing of bamboo uses caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and toxic bleaching agents. If the chemicals are not handled responsibly they can be damaging to both the environment and to the factory workers” 17

Bamboo turned into fibers that is used in fabrics. 19

Bamboo plants are converted into fibers to produce an eco-‐friendly product that is safer, and healthier for the environment. 18

Why use Bamboo? “Bamboo is known to be the fastest growing plant on the Earth. It is a naturally renewable, eco-‐friendly plant that thrives without the use of harmful pesticides. A bamboo forest releases 35% more oxygen than a forest equivalent in size. Every strand of bamboo fiber boasts a luxurious soft hand, elegant sheen and durability while keeping you cooler than polyester.” 18

“Bamboo just might be the world’s most sustainable resource. It is the fastest growing grass and can shoot up a yard or more a day. Bamboo reaches maturity quickly and is ready for harvesting in about 4 years. Bamboo does not require replanting after harvesting because its vast root network continually sprouts new shoots, pulling in sunlight and greenhouse gases and converting them to new green growth. And bamboo does this the natural way without the need for petroleum-‐guzzling tractors and poisonous pesticides and fertilizers.” 20

Dyeing

When synthetic dyeing, there is a w ide variety of colors that could be used on different type of garments.

Synthetic dyeing

“Almost all the colors that you see today are Synthetic dyes. Synthetic dyes are used everywhere in everything from clothes to paper, from food to wood; it has evolved into a multi billion dollar industry ” 22

Synthetic Dyeing allows production to move quickly; therefore, more quantity is produced. 22

Environmental Issues v Chemicals used in the process of dyeing are toxic o Anililine is a chemical that is poisonous and highly flammable o Other toxic chemicals used are heavy metals, and formaldehyde can cause health problems to workers, and consumers v Pollution o In many dye factories, dyed water is being dumped into rivers o Huge amount of water is being wasted

Why use Synthetic dyeing? “Since antiquity, fabrics have been dyed with extracts from minerals, plants, and animals. Things began to change around 1856 when scientists discovered how to make synthetic dyes. Cheaper to produce, brighter, more colorfast, and easy to apply to fabric, these new dyes changed the playing field. Before long, dyed fabric was available to all, and natural dyes had become obsolete for most applications”23

Air dyeing “Air dyeing Technology is a dyeing process that uses air instead of water to dye fabrics, allowing companies to create fabrics with vivid designs and colors, without polluting the water and environment” 24

Benefits of Air dyeing v Consumes less water than Synthetic dyeing24 v Less energy is required; therefore, less energy used24 v Less damage to goods24 v No toxic chemicals are used in the process24 v More healthy environment for workers and consumers24 v “Air dyed fabrics can be washed at any temperature, with whites or colors, with or without bleach”24 v New designs can be created24

A fabric print created by using AirDye technology.25

Fabric Design using AirDye

v “Provide us with your custom design or select from our library of over 15,000 designs.”25 v “Our software enables true custom coloration, and accurate color matching from design through bulk production.”25 v “AirDye lets you decorate both sides of your fabric independently.”25

v “Our technology provides unsurpassed print quality and speed.”25

Why use AirDye Technology?

In AirDye Technology, air is the basic component of air dyeing fabric. 26

“AirDye's process begins with using all synthetic fibers for its material, which can be made from recycled PET bottles. Using dispersed dyes that are applied to a paper carrier, AirDye uses heat to transfer the dyes from the paper to the surface of the textiles. All dyes are inert, meaning that they can go back to their original state and be reused.” 27

Product Manufacturing

“Two-‐thirds of apparel consumption is synthetic fibers, made from non-‐renewable resources such as petroleum, coal, and gas.” 28

Synthetic dyes “And while it may be true that synthetic dyes revolutionized the clothing business sector and made them more affordable to manufacture, one of the downsides to this is that alarming research has b een demonstrating that synthetic dyes that are used in clothing, have been causing a variety of illnesses that we were not aware of before.”29

Environmental Issues v “Most dyes that are used in clothing contain chemicals that are carcinogenic and highly toxic”29 v Synthetic dyes use toxic heavy metals, such as copper and zinc 29 v Formaldehyde can cause cancer v “Dioxin is suspected of being carcinogenic and suspected of being a possible hormone disruptor”29 v Health risks include: migraines, cancer, seizures, sore muscles, upset stomach, and irregular breathing29

“It can be estimated that over 10,000 different dyes and pigments are used industrially.”29

Colorful Truth about Synthetic dyes “We all like to wear colorful clothes. Whether a special occasion or just daily wear, it's always nice to add a little color in our lives. Dyes are the chemical substances that are responsible for turning plain cloth into the colorful garments that we wear every day.” 30

Natural dyes

“As the medical community continues to conduct various studies on the dangers that are associated with synthetic clothing dyes, some medical experts have taken it upon themselves to advise the public that their are natural ingredients that can be used as Eco-‐friendly dyes.” 29

My natural dyeing experience

For this section of my portfolio, I decided to make my own natural dye using blackberries. 1. I began the process by cutting the blackberries into small pieces. Then in a pot with boiling water, I added the berries and began to smash them with a masher. 2. I pretreated my shirt and fabric in boiling water, and added some salt. 3. Once the berries where turned into liquid, I removed the pot from the stove, and placed my shirt in the berry sauce. (For some design, I tied some parts of my shirt with some rubber bands) 4. I let the shirt sit in the pot for a couple of minutes before rinsing and letting it air dry.

The process I used to dye my fabric, using blackberries.

Other eco-‐friendly dyes v Onion skins: yellow/orange dye v Dandelion roots: brown dye v Lavender: pink dye v Red cabbage: purple dye v Strawberries: pink/red dye v Hyacinth flowers: blue dye v Iris roots: gray/ black dye v Avocado: tan/brown dye v Plums: purple/magenta dye

The Results

The end result after my fabric was completely dry.

Overall, the process was really easy to follow. The color is very pigmented, giving the plain shirt a nice magenta color. Some seeds still remain in the shirt, but once it’s washed a couple of times it should come off. The only downside of natural dyeing is that it needs to be laundered in cold water, separate from other laundry. When placed in water the color tends to bleed. By natural dyeing our clothes, there will be fewer chemicals harming the environment and us. I will be definitely trying this again with other fruits.

Retail

“Both paper and plastic bags requires valuable resources and energy and have a major impact o n the environment.”31

Shopping bags

“Over 1 trillion plastic bags are used every year worldwide. About 1 million plastic bags are used every minute. The U.S. goes through 100 billion single-‐use plastic bags. This costs retailers about $4 billion a year.” 33

Environmental Issues

v “Plastic bags are the second-‐ most common type of ocean refuse” 31 v “A single plastic bag can take up to 1,000 years to degrade” 33 v Toxins and other chemicals are used in the process of dyeing 32 v “Plastic bags remain toxic after they break down” 33 v “Paper bags generate seventy percent more air and fifty times more water pollutants than plastic bags.”31

A pile of shopping bags, after a day at the mall. 32

Which is better plastic or paper? “Many argue plastic is better than paper because you can reuse the bag repeatedly, while paper is better because it’s more easily recycled. However, while an item can be recycled, it cannot be recycled repeatedly and even the recycling process requires resources. As shown above, it appears the likely answer is plastic, but nothing is ever as easy as it may seem.” 31

Reusable bags

3 Retailers that reward you for bringing your own bags

Reusable bags are now being used more efficient when grocery shopping.

Why use reusable shopping bags

v Target o Current incentive: earn a $.05 discount for every reusable bag you bring in to use.34 v Whole Foods o Current incentive: Whole Foods offer a $.10 discount with every reusable bag you bring in with you.34 v Trader Joes o Current incentives: Some Trader Joe’s stores offer a $.05 discount per reusable bag you bring in to use. Other Trader Joe’s stores offer one entry into a weekly raffle for a $25 Trader Joe’s gift card each time you shop with reusable bags 34

v Reusable bags saves trees v Reusable bags save water v Reusable bags save gas and oil v Reusable bags help air pollution v Reusable bags help our oceans v Reusable bags help the sea creatures v Reusable bags save up to more than 700 bags over the span of their lifetime

Did you know?

Reusable bags, from some retailers, that have 34 created their personal reusable shopping bag. 34

“More than 10 percent of washed-‐up debris polluting the U.S. coastline is made up of plastic bags.” 35 “It takes 12 million barrels of oil to produce the estimated 100 billion plastic bags Americans use each year.”35

Consumer/ Post-‐consumer

Although laundry detergents and additives make our clothes smell fresh and feel softer, most all laundry -‐care products contain chemicals. 37

Laundry detergents

Environmental Issues v Harmful chemicals and toxins. They can build up in the skin v “May cause serious health problems such as asthma, autism, infertility, allergies, and even cancer.” 39 v Can cause damage to the aquatic ecosystems v “Many detergents contain a large amount of phosphate, which can cause oxygen depletion in aquatic systems.”38 v “Most laundry detergents contain optical brighteners, which are chemicals that trick the sensory perception to make consumers believe their clothes are whiter.”39

Laundry d etergents are made of petrochemicals that are toxic to humans and the environment. 37

How the chemicals can damage your health and body. “Just like lead poisoning, the effects of these chemicals usually are not instant, they gradually eat away at your health over time, because they are absorbed through your skin. Your skin is like a sponge. The chemicals in laundry detergent end up on your clothes and they are never rinsed completely. As you wear them on your body, the chemicals soak into your skin.”29

SmartKlean laundry ball

My experience using the SmartKlean laundry ball For this section of my portfolio, I decided to find out if the SmartKlean laundry ball would replace my laundry detergent. 1. Using the laundry ball was very easy. o Take the ball out of the packaging o Place the ball in the washing machine, and start washing. 2. The instructions mentioned the washing machine needed to be washed; however I skipped this process. 3. As a way of knowing if the ball really worked, I added some dirt to one of my shirt, and a berry stain to another. 4. They do suggest that any stains should be pre-‐treated beforehand; however I just wanted to see if any part of the stain would come off. 5. I filled my washer with a few clothing pieces, added the laundry ball, and started the washing machine. 6. Once the clothes were done washing, I checked for any odor, the dirt stain, and the berry stain. 7.For the most part all the clothing pieces had no odor. The dirt from one shirt was completely gone; however, the berry stain was still visible.

The end results after using the SmartKlean laundry ball. Both shirts are clean; however, stains don’t come off.

process I took using the SmartKlean laundry The ball.

Benefits of using the SmartKlean laundry ball. v v v v v v v v

Non-‐detergent laundry ball 100% non-‐toxic Reusable for 365 loads No laundry additives needed Eco-‐friendly Saves people time and money Portable and easy to use Protects garment fibers

The Results

Overall, the process was easy to follow and the results were great. There is no fragrance added, so the clothes don’t really smell like anything. The laundry ball does not remove any stains! People need to pre-‐treat their stains before washing. I was very satisfied with the result. 1. It was easy to follow the instructions. 2. The clothes were washed without using any detergent or softener.

References 1

"Cotton." Cotton. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 Feb. 2015.

2 "What Is Cotton?" WiseGEEK. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2015.

"Does Non-‐Organic Cotton Contain Pesticide Residues? « Naturepedic." Naturepedic RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 4 "Environmental Impacts." Green Choices. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2015. 5 "Why Organic Cotton Is Better." Mother Earth News. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2015. 6 "Benefits of Organic." -‐ The Farm Hub. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 7 "Why Choose Organic? -‐ Hae Now." Why Choose O rganic? -‐ Hae Now. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 8 "Cotton Australia." Multimedia. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2015. 9 "Organic Education." Organic.org. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 10 "Cotton Australia." Cotton Classroom. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 11 "How Eco Is Organic Cotton? The Facts on 7 Questions." How Eco Is Organic Cotton? The Facts on 7 Questions. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Feb. 2015. 12 "Textile | A pparel News." Textile Apparel News. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 Mar. 2015. 13 "HowStuffCompares." Cotton Versus Polyester. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 Mar. 2015. 14 "How Products A re Made." How Polyester Is Made. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 Mar. 2015. 15 "Environmental Impacts of Fabric: Polyester." 'Wear Nothing New' N.p., n.d. Web. 05 Mar. 2015. 16 Green, Simon. "What Effects Do Polyester Factories Have on the Environment?" EHow. Demand Media, 17 June 2011. Web. 05 Mar. 2015. 17 "Is Bamboo a Sustainable Fabric? Or Is It Just Bamboozling Us…." BEAGLEYBROWN DESIGN RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2015. 18 "Going Green -‐ A Few Facts! · Am3adsource." Am3adsource Passionate about Your Brand. N.p., 16 Mar. 2012. Web. 04 May 2015. 19 "Bamboo Fiber." Sheepish Creations. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2015. 20 "Organic_Clothing." 'Organic_Clothing' N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2015. 21 "Dyes." SP Exim. N.p., n.d. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 22 "How Do Natural and Synthetic Dyes Interact with Natural and Synthetic Fabrics?" How Do Natural and Synthetic Dyes Interact with Natural and Synthetic Fabrics? N.p., n.d. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 23 "Synthetic Dyes: A Look at Environmental & Human R isks." Green Cotton. N.p., 18 June 2008. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 24 Kant, Rita. "Textile Dyeing Industry an Environmental Hazard." N.p., n.d. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 25 "Design." Airdyesolutions. N.p., n.d. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 26 "Recent Developments In Dyeing." Textile World. N.p., n.d. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 27 "AirDye's Ecological D yeing Process Makes the Future of Textiles Bright." Fast Company. N.p., 22 Sept. 2009. Web. 01 Apr. 2015. 28 "Fashion For C lothing." Fashion For Clothing. N.p., n.d. Web. 03 May 2015. 29 "Health Risks Associated With Synthetic Clothing Dyes." Healthy Eternity. N.p., 15 Apr. 2015. Web. 03 May 2015. 30 "Everyday Chemistry -‐ The Colourful Truth about Dyes." Everyday Chemistry -‐ The Colourful Truth about Dyes. N.p., n.d. Web. 03 May 2015. 3

"Kicking the Bag Habit." Createplentyorg. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. "Designer Shopping Bags Tumblr (Good Galleries)." Designer Shopping Bags Tumblr (Good Galleries). N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 33 "Facts A bout the Plastic Bag PandemicShare." Www.reuseit.com/. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 34 "Reduce, Reuse and Recycle at Home -‐ Home Tips for Women." Home Tips for Women. N.p., 13 Nov. 2009. Web. 05 May 2015. 35Erdos, Joseph. "Why You Should Use A Reusable Grocery Bag." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 36 "Exchange Your Old Phones for Cash." ExchangeMyPhone Blog Highlighting the Latest in Reuse and Tech Inspiration. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 37 "Smarter Business: Greening Advisor." NRDC Greening Advisor: Laundry Care. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 38 Dyas, Brie. "Everything You Thought You Knew About Doing Laundry Is Wrong." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 39 "Learn The Truth About Laundry Detergents, Laundry D etergents Are Toxic, Laundry D etergents Are Not Soap." Learn The Truth About Laundry Detergents, Laundry Detergents Are Toxic, Laundry Detergents Are Not Soap. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 May 2015. 31 32