Coralia
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Welcome to
Issue 01.
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Coralia Issue
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A m y
K at e
E d i t o r F e l i c i t y H a r g r e av e s
S h o p p i n g & N e w s E d i t o r A m y K at e F e l i c i t y H a r g r e av e s A m y
T r av e l E d i t o r K at e F e l i c i t y H a r g r e av e s
A m y
B e a u t y A s s i s t a n t K at e F e l i c i t y H a r g r e av e s
C o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r a p h e r s L i a m S p e n c e r A m y
K at e
S t y l i s t F e l i c i t y H a r g r e av e s
C o n t r i b u t i n g S t y l i s t s R a c h e l S m i t h O L i v i a G r ay M e g a n & K at h r y n P u r v e s I l l u s t r at i o n s S t e p h a n i e D av i e s P r o o f R e a d i n g J e n n y R i c h a r d s o n C h r i s t o p h e r H o d g e S t p e h e n J L e e P u b l i s h e r K i e t h g a s c o i g n e
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Inside this issue Welcome to Coralia Contributors Editors Letter
Pages 124-133
Article - head over heels Coralia loves Fashion - Style icons - What i wore this week Photography - Sunday girl - shine your light - its a twin thing Culture - New Music - coralia reviews Bon iver - Coralias moxtape - ask her to draw - come to tea - Travel - stockists
Pages 106-117 6
e.. . Pages 28-37
Pages 144-145
Pages 40-47
Pages 50-75 7
Contributors 01.
just some of the wonderful people that made this happen
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Stephanie Davies
Megan Purves
Kathryn Purves
Lium
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Name: Stephanie Davies Age: 21 University Degree: Illustration, LJM
Name: Megan Purves Age: 20 University Degree: Fashion Communication, Northumbria
Favourite colour: Black
Favourite texture: Fur, leather or silk
just some of the wonderful people that made this happen
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You
Name: Kathryn Purves Age: 20 University degree: Fashion Communication, Northumbria
Name: Lium Spencer Age: 21 University Degree: Architecture, Edinburgh
Favourite posession: Canon EOS 1000D SLR
Favourite quote: “Quiet has never been this loud or compelling�
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SALES sales@charlottetaylorltd.com
PRESS skye@kitchandhoney.com
BLOG
TELEPHONE
www.charlotte-taylor.blogspot.com
+44 (0)20 8740 1648
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Editors Letter HELLO! Welcome to this wonderful first Issue of Coralia. we are a monthly publication that bring to you the very best current affairs in the fashion, art, textiles and music worlds, in our first edition expect to see the brilliant talent of young stylists, photographers, illustrators and writers as they showcase their talents in their respective arenas We want to tickle your innovative and expressive tastebuds with our knowledge and provide you with flair and inspiration throughout your creative lives. we hope you will enjoy reading this just as much as we have enjoyed making it. WIth Love Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves Editor in chief
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Head Over Heels
By Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves 16
“Cinderella is proof that a pair of shoes can change your life.” Author: Unknown I certainly am a firm believer in this quote. IIt speaks volumes when describing the beautiful and magical creation that is the shoe. Of course- the life changing event might not be strictly speaking in exactly the same sense as Cinderella’s was- but I firmly believe that with the help of a beautiful pair of shoes as a starting block, added with a bit of confidence and sometimes luck- you are well on your way to achieving anything you could possible want. Let me introduce you to the wonder that is the shoe. What once was a simple accessory used purely as an addition to complement an outfit- shoes have now taken over and to become the star, the WOW factor, the first point of call & the final mark of completion to a beautifully manufactured outfit. No longer are they seen as just a practical accessory but as standing in a league of their own. And so they should be- im a strong believer we should appreciate these wonderful creations and for them to be recognized as an essential object within our lives.After all- we have so much to thank them for. Shoes allow you to manipulate and trick the mind of others to believing that you are completely different people to perhaps as what they perceive you as. Whether thats through affecting your attitude and height, enabling yourself to express your passions and personality or to simply update and va-va-voom your look. For me personally, shoes have always been my vice, and in particular-heels. I would say I own roughly around 120 pairs of heels alone, and considering I was only allowed to start wearing them from the age of twelve, its a fair to say ive got a few. I think this may be something to do with my height, as being “5”2 and a smidge” (as the doctor ‘medically’ informed me) heels to me are my secret weapon; the card up my sleeve, the weapon in my aresenal, the “quick as a flash” fix that transforms me from the small dowdy hobbit to a glamorous elf. I really am a woman possessed. While some girls have handbags, others have make up, and the occasional few have men, my one-true-love in superficial life is most definitely shoes. From the wincingly high sky-scraper stilettos to the sturdy, tailored and androgynous brogues, clodhopper “bovver” boots to dainty and feminine ballet shoes, I cant get enough. Some (i.e. my mother and boyfriend) would claim its an unhealthy obsession- I have an addiction, a fetish, a severe problem that needs to be quashed imme-
diately. And I suppose at times i could admit these to be true- when I walk past a shoe shop, or flick through a magazine there is always the danger of some kind of shoe catching my eye and once they have, it really takes all my might to stop me giving in, marching into the shop and frantically scrabbling for my visa to have them in my possession. Its not just a want, but genuine need. Which may sound a little crazy, but I know im not alone. Women world wide have the same secret issue as me, and so with 14 billion others in the same boat- is there a cure? What is it that makes shoes to a woman like kryptonite to Superman? why are women so obsessed with shoes? Of course there are men- homosexual and heterosexual alike who suffer from this addiction too, but in my experience- this constant lust and connection with shoes is definitely a woman’s thing. Men have their dogs, women have their shoes. Shoes are like the perfect companion, they cheer you up when you feel down, they flatter your appearance and general they just make you feel damn good. As Lisa freeman, editor-in-chief of ShopSmart states, “Shoes never make your butt look big, you don’t have to worry about squeezing into them if you’ve put on a couple of pounds, and they can instantly make you feel sexier. Maybe that’s why, despite the economy, we’re still buying shoes” 17
She couldn’t be more right. With clothes for i nstance, one too many canapés at the neighbour’s birthday bash and your done for. That skirt you bought in the ridiculously expensive shop that lovingly befriended you in the mirror, accentuating your curves and complementing your skin, suddenly turns you into a lumpy, misshaped frump once the deceiving lights of the changing room are gone and you are back home looking in the mirror. Shoes do not do this, shoes are your friend. They should be properly awarded for their talents, as SJP states that we should “ Appreciate them as works of art with a place in culture and history, and also as mechanisms to elevate the style, stature and status of women around the world” And the figures say it all to back up the reasoning to this thought process. With being in full swing of the technological era, buying online has never been easier. With just a few clicks anything you could possibly desire can be yours (within reason). Shoe buying online has become a new obsession with the nation. According to ShopSmart’s results, “Almost a third (29%) of women are doing it, a significant increase from four years ago when only 14% were buying shoes online.” This could be to do with the heavy influence that designers hold upon us mere mortals, passed down to us from the leaders in fashion with what they say, goes. It cannot be denied that now one of the key features of a designer’s showcase catwalk collection is the shoes. Look at Alexander (or Lee to his bff’s) Mc Queens “armadillo” shoes from his “Plato’s Atlantis” spectacular show for ss10. They became a world wide phenomenon when they were showcased in his ss10 collection. Everyone and anyone was talking about the exquisite design, the fantastic craftsmanship and the sheer madness he possessed to create such a sculpture. I remember the moment I first set eyes on them. It was the 6th of October 2009. I seem to remember the day particularly well as I had received a threatening letter from the tv licensing company demanding I pay for my license as they knew I was 18
The shoes made in heavenLouboutins
watching television. The fact that I was on the 7th floor, 14 flights of stairs up an apartment building, that was protected by alarmed gates and a 24hr guard gave me comfort that I would watch this spectacular life changing event and there was nothing they could do to spoil the moment for me. The weather was bleak and the air outside so bitterly cold my window rattled and hissed as the wind flowed through the gaps. Typical of the joy that is the British winter. The excitement and over-enthused hype of LFW from September had been and gone, and things in the fashion world were beginning to return to normal. Except for that day where everything changed. That particular day was one of the most exciting days of the year, of the decade some would say- that day was the showcase of Alexander McQueen’s “Plato’s Atlantis” catwalk. Shoe designers themselves have become huge icons within the fashion industry and world wide. “Louboutins”- with their signature aspect of the instantly recognizable red sole, a Louboutin shoe drives lust into the heart of women. Everyone knows what exactly they state about the wearer, they instantly glamorise and evoke a sense of wealth
and power. Beginning his career in 1991, selling a desirable line of high end shoes, he felt something was missing from his collection. Something to give his shoes an edge and to enable them to become a cut above the rest. Whilst backstage at a runway show, a young intern plucked her red Chanel nail varnish from out of her bag and applied it to her perfectly manicured nails. The vivacious, sumptuous post box red nail varnish caught his eye and struck like a bolt of lightening. The lucky stroke of spontaneity sealed his fate, and the lacquered red soles were born. He descirbes this experience wonderfully himself, “In 1992, I incorporated the red sole into the design of my shoes. This happened by accident as I felt that the shoes lacked energy, so I applied red nail polish to the sole of a shoe. This was such a success that it became a permanent fixture.” I look forward to the day I can add a pair of these heaven sent creations- in particular the Swarovski Daffodil’s in a size 5 would be nice. (*sigh) But at over £3000 a pop its not likely ill be able to make them my “number 121’s” for some time. Maybe santa will treat me well this year. It is the season of good will after all. But if not- well hey there’s always the January sales. Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
My wishlist for 2012:
YSL Tribute Pumps
Louboutin Dafodill Pump
Jeffrey Campbell Stud Lita
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Tips to keeping your shoes looking lovely by Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves (Avid collector and shoe fanatic)
The most important tip- DO NOT WEAR ILL FITTING SHOES. They will not only make you walk uncomfortably but will over time damage your feet-which is not a good thing. We’ve all done it- the pair you need to have but are two sizes too small in the shop, and yet you convince yourself into buying them in the hope that once you get them home they will have magically transformed to fit your feet perfectly. But they wont. I can promise you- i’ve learnt the hard way! So always remember to buy the correct size. You can ask for a fitting before you try- Clarks offer a very precise and thorough measuring service so I recommend going there first to find out your true size before you begin your quest for shoe hunting. (www.clarks.com) You must keep your feet in good health. With ill fitting shoes you can get all kinds of feet nasties from blisters and cuts to the dreaded bunions and corns. So make sure you stick to tip one to avoid these monstrosities. Also always wear socks inside boots/trainers/lace up shoes to avoid rubbing and grossing out the person stood next to you. Always spray your shoes with protectant before wearing them outside. You can buy good protectant spray from shoe shops, and at a couple of pounds it wont stretch the bank. This stuff is a life saver and will keep your shoes looking tip top. If your shoes do get wet, allow them to dry completely before wearing them again. A handy tip to ensure this is to scrunch up pieces of old newspaper and squash down fully into the shoe to help draw out the moisture, but make sure its away from direct heat or it will damage the shoe. Once your shoes have dried, waterproof them again with a multi-purpose protector. If your shoes are damaged by water or snow, to remove the salt stains from your shoes simply mix together a solution of equal parts white distilled vinegar and water and wipe them down. The stains will be gone in no time! Use a shoe horn to assist with putting on your shoes and to keep the heel from losing its shape. It sounds simple- but if your shoes have laces, make sure you un tie them before you put them on. I will stop them losing their shape or becoming damaged from the force of you pulling them on. A handy tip I learnt from a fellow shoe obsessive is to keep your shoes horned and in their boxes, and to stick a photo on the outside so you can see which wonderful pair you want to wear on that day. Or if you don’t have time to take a photo, you can buy shoe boxes with a clear perspex front so you can see the beauties hiding inside. Ikea do a fabulous set of four black shoe boxes for £8.99 (ikea.com) Keeping them organised like this not only looks good in your wardrobe but will make your shoes look beautiful for longer. Follow these tips and you will keep your shoes looking and smelling at their best, ensuring maximum wear and keeping them looking fabulous.
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Coralia Loves Coralia’s Wish List
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Charlotte Olympia Dolly Rose £608
Sarah&Bendrix is a london based studio, set up by Veronika in 2009. It specialises in beautifully hand made and extremely romantic pieces of art created using paper folded into heart shapes. This exquisite picture is made up of pink coloured hearts on a white background, that can be are inscribed to frame personal memories with loved ones names, important dates, favorite song, poem, message for your partner, sibling, friend or even parents. The list is endless! We absolutely love these and have sent our orders in already. Take a little look at their other wonderful artwork: www.sarahandbendrix.com/love-hearts
Howkapow is a fabulously quirky and kitsch online shop which was set up by the phalanx of creative clever clogs (who also happen to be husband and wife) Rog and Cat How in 2010. It stocks the innovative and highly imaginative products from the best emerging designers within the disciplines of art, jewellery, furniture, home ware and illustrations. This stunning hand-crafted brooch from Rosita Bonita has been beautifully crafted from intricate illustrations that are printed onto coloured leather and then delicately bonded by hand together. We think this is an absolute bargain at £16 so hurry and grab yourself a beauty today! And while you’re there, take a little look at their other lovely things: www.howkapow.com
Charbonnel & Walker champagne truffles £9.75
Burberry Prorsum studded cotton-twill jacket
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Sarah Coggles is a fabulously British and extremely innovative designer boutique, located in the heart of the historic city of York It was founded in 1974 by then owner Victoria Bage. Sadly Victoria passed away several years ago, leaving ownership of the store to her son Mark and daughter Sarah who have turned this small boutique into a world renowned leading independent retailers in the UK, specialising in high fashion, art and culture.
It stocks some of the most influential fashion brands of the moment, such as A.P.C, Nigel Cabourn, Grenson, Ally Capellino, D&G, Paul Smith, Commes des Garcons, Folk, Linda Farrow, Nudie, Woolrich Woolen Mills.. the list goes on! We simply love the store- and with an online site that ships world wide, giving in to our shopping addiction and splurging on the fantastic products available really couldn’t be easier. www.coggles.com
Mulberry oversized Alexa £295 24
AIGA hand made bauble £14
Patisserie Valerie is a luxury hand made patisserie, specialising in hand made elaborate cakes and pastrys. The original Patisserie Valerie first opened its doors in 1926, in Frith Street, when a Belgian born Madam Valerie decided to introduce a taste of the continent to the English.
It has gone on to make a prominent name for itself, and is popular with people the world over due to its suptuous cakes and intricate designs. Having dined here several times- it truly is a haven of self indulgence and definitely worth a visit! Find your nearest Patisserie Valerie at www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk La Rosa Hotel Located in the picturesque seaside town of Whitby, La Rosa Hotel is a wonderfully quirky boutique hotel full of charm and character. Each of the 8 hotel rooms (there is also an apartment called The Crow’s Nest) are given a different theme, including ‘Lewis’ (a nod and a wink to one of the hotel’s previous visitors, Lewis Caroll), ‘Saloon’, ‘Caravan’ and ‘Arabesque’ that add a cutesy appeal to the place. Decorated with old tea pots, lanterns, vintage rugs and nostalgic tit bits, there is a lovely cosy and welcoming feel to the hotel which is just divine so if you fancy a weekend break that involves lots of culture and history, with a bit of wackiness and eccentricity then staying here is a must. Visit: larosa.co.uk/hotel/index.html to book your visit
Jeffrey Campbell Lita Spike £130
Paul Smith Revival DAB Radio £295 25
Style Icons
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Coralia has been out-a-hunting to find four fabulously fashionable filly’s to capture their style and question them on who their own style icon is. We love each gal’s sense of fashion and originality in their outfits that make them coralia’s perfect
style icons
Here we have Rachel Kathryn Megan OliviA
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“ My style icons would have to be firstly Edie Sedgewick because she is b..e..a..utiful and Drew barrymore in Poinson Ivy- i love the whole 90’s grunge vibe”
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Rachel 29
Megan 30
“ My style icon would have to be Pixie Geldof. I love how she mixes vintage with designer and she always looks eye catching. She could literally wear a bin bag and still look amazing�
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Olivia 32
“ My style icons are Eliza Doolittle and Alice Delall because they both love to experiement with different textures and patterns and always look amazing�
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“ My style icon is audrey Tautou. she always looks effortless and extremely chic”
Kathryn 35
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what i Wore this week styling and photography by Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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Monday
Jumper A.P.C Wax coated jeans & suede wedges Topshop Moc croc bag Vintage
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Tuesday
Dress Charlotte Taylor Mink fur muff Vintage Studded boots Kurt Geiger
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wednesday
Leather pencil skirt McQ Silk bird shirt Paul & Joe Sister Bird print bag Primark Suede wedges Topshop Fascinator Vintage Initial necklace Tatty Devine
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thursday
Maxi Skirt Religion Nude courts Asos Ribbed flared top H&M Rose Garland Vintage Peach patent clutch Mulberry
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friday
Maxi skirt H&M Striped chunky knit Cos Tapestry Boots Jeffrey Campbell
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saturday
Peach playsuit Topshop Suede wedges Topshop Moc croc bag Vintage Rabbit fur scarf Vintage Patent black belt
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sunday
Baby-doll dress Religion Patent red box bag Primark Tapestry Boots Jeffrey Campbell Initial necklace Tatty Devine
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Sunday Girl photography by Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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Corali a Loves Coralia Loves....
Coralia Lo
Coralia Loves
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Loves Coralia Loves 74
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Shine your light Photography by Lium Spencer & Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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Its a twin thing Interview by Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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What do you like about being twins, and identical ones at that? Megan: I always have someone who is on my level, and I think sometimes we can balance each other out. Kathryn: Yeah, I like the fact that I always have someone there… but then again I don’t know what it’s like not to be a twin. Who’s the oldest? M: Kathryn is, by seven minutes to be exact!
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How are you most different? K: I think overall there are not that many differences between us, sometimes we’d probably like to think that there are, when really we are very similar. Where did your interest in fashion come from? M: I suppose I am a rather visual person and obviously fashion is something that appeals to that. K: I’m not really sure where it came from; I’ve just always had an interest in it. What does style mean to you? K: I think it is an extension of people’s personalities, whether they know it or not. Style can also be about classic, timeless pieces, taste and a good eye! M: Yeah, I think you can tell when someone is merely following trends or is comfortable in their own style.
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Describe your own style in 3 words K: I think it’s really difficult for you to describe your own style; it would probably be easier to ask someone else. M: Yeah, I couldn’t describe it in three words. I think my style changes depending on where I am going, who I am meeting etc. What do you like about each others style? K: It’s very similar to my own! We have a lot of pieces that we buy together and share and sometimes it is interesting to see how we wear a piece differently. Favourite memory? M: When we blagged our way into the Lincoln Center during New York Fashion Week in February last year. K: Yeah, and after that we were able to go in several times to see the presentations and shows. Apart from that I would probably say interrailing around Europe, we booked our accommodation as we went along, which was exciting to not know where we’d end up and do as we please!
Who is particularly inspiring to you? M: There is no one in particular who I find inspiring; in general I suppose I admire people that accomplish things that they set out to do. K: Yeah I agree. If we were just talking about fashion I find it inspiring when people have a vision and they see it through. Dream job? K: We still don’t really know yet but definitely one in the fashion industry. Last place you visited M: We went to Barcelona during the Summer break with a friend, it was the first time we’d been there and we really enjoyed it, it’s a pretty cool city.
Words by Megan and Kathryn Purves
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34 rue de charonne 75011 Paris
6 rue Sainte 13001 Marseille
10 rue courteissade 13100 Aix-en-Provence
1 rue Joseph Vernet 35 rue de la Clef Le Bon MarchĂŠ 84000 Avignon 59800 Lille 24 Rue de Sevres 75007 Paris
Galeries Lafayette 40 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris www.sessun.com www.sessun.com/blog
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New Music 100
girl of the month...
Lana Del Rey Dubbed the new “ghetto jazz girl”- Lana del Rey’s sultry husky aura and infectious songs are certainly allowing her to become the talk of the town. Our fave track from the album has to be ‘Video Games’- sassy, haunting and with a slight tinge of nancy sinatra to her tone of voive- we’ve had Video games playing non stop around the office for weeks! Big hair, big lips, big voice. whats not to love about this girl?!
Album “Born to Die” out now 101
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Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
Bon Iver Usher Hall, Edinburgh 22/10/2011 103
Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
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he intricate detail and ornament of Usher Hall appears more resplendent than usual cloaked in the air of anticipation by the time Bon Iver takes to the stage. Emerging from the shadows at last, the mere sight of the now 9 piece ensemble forces the crowd into rapturous and gracious applause. As the house lights fade and the opening chimes of Perth ring out to the now transfixed mass, one cannot help feeling like a proud parent at the Christmas play, humbled and awestruck; it feels like Bon Iver are finally where they deserve to be. Justin Vernon and the good ship Bon Iver have ridden the wave of a turbulent and tumultuous career through illness, obscurity and setbacks. Their 2007 release For Emma Forever Ago achieved critical acclaim and glowing reviews but its impact on the mainstream was diluted by the ubiquitous stalwart offspring of reality shows and media moguls filling up chart places. Momentum and popularity would continue to grow however, Kanye West sampling vocals for a track on his Twisted Dark Fantasy release proved to be an ironic springboard for Bon Iver to launch this year’s eponymous release Bon Iver into a curious new audience and the welcoming arms of their already established fan base. It is the bigger sounds of the new release that provides the body of the early set list in Edinburgh, the guitars weaving in and out of thumping drum-lines provided by not one but two drummers, lyrics punctuated by shrill horns and keyboard melodies. The band look at ease as they push songs to their limits, stretching out improvised solos and almost trance inducing cacophonies of noise only to return perfectly to the final strains and the barrage of applause that follows, precedes and often intrudes on the music itself. By the middle of the set there is an unspoken want
Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves lingering under the skin of the crowd for Vernon to dip into the back catalogue and temporarily put aside the 80s synth and sax in favour of the old six string and heartfelt falsetto. As the members of the band take a well earned break a now diminutive looking Vernon, no longer masked by his wall of sound, takes his place under the spotlight. What followed is arguably the most beautiful moment in live music this year as man and guitar proceed with a rendition of Re: Stacks: personal, beautiful and quiet the crowd respond glassy eyed and with held breath following each word and note as it lingers in the almost visible atmosphere. After the band return, a stream of old and new ease the crowd towards the inevitable but unwanted finish. The excellent Kenny G-esque sax solos of Beth/Rest sit comfortably aside the rousing vocals of The Wolves (Act I and II) ending an unquestionably perfect set. There is a mutual look of appreciation reflected in both musician and audience alike as they take their first bow that tells the story of this journey, the small alternative Wisconsin based band of friends have truly earned the deafening standing ovation that continues uninterrupted until the return for an encore. The encore feels like an oversized camp fire sing-along with For Emma preceding the predictable but wonderful Skinny Love, Vernon accompanied by his band members and every stretched vocal cord of a now delirious crowd. As the final applause reaches peak after peak of crescendo, there is a beauty and grace in the appreciation from both sides that highlights the pertinence of the Skinny Love lyric
‘I told you to be patient, I told you to be fine.’
Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
It would appear Vernon’s patience has paid off, the thankless road has been worth it, the look in his eyes and smile on his face says everything is fine where he is right now, just fine. . . Words by Lium Spencer
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Coralia Loves
Mixtapes 106
The Playlist Songs that inspire Coralia’s gal’s Laura Marling - New Romantic Johnny Flynn - Cold Bread Boniver - Holocene Iron & Wine - The Trapeze Swinger Trespassers William - Different Stars Mazzy Star - Into Dust Anthony & the Johnsons - Fistful of Love The BPA ft Emmy the Great - Seattle The Avett Brothers - I and Love and You Alexi Murdoch - Orange Sky Halloween Alaska - All The Arms Around You Now Ray Lamontagne - Be Here Now Sufjan Stevens - Chicago Lana Del Rey - Videogames The Weepies - World Spins Madly On Mumford and Sons -Winter Winds
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ACNE STUDIO 13 DOVER ST W1S 4LN, LONDON, UK doverstreet@acnestudios.com
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Ask Her To Draw Stephanie Davies, inspirational illustrator from york, now finds herself insense in studying in Liverpool. Here, she discusses her life, loves and ambitions
Illustrations by Stephanie Davies
Interview by Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves How are you today? I’m very well thank you Where are you? What can you see from you nearest window? My flat is on one of the highest points in Liverpool, so at the moment I can see the whole city Can you tell me a little about yourself and your interests that relate to your talent of illustration, and other hobbies/talents you possess? I grew up in York and like most illustrators I suppose I loved art at school, but I was always interested in history, textiles, English literature and different styles of writing. I always loved music, but mainly the way the lyrics are written and sang, rather than the way an instrument is played or its overall sound. Although that is important, tone of voice and life experiences are something that inspires my work. The process of going from audio to visual, or imagination to visual, is recurring within my work, trying to recreate what you have already processed in your own unique way. 110
What inspires you in life? how does this affect your work? What excites me inspirationally is playing with a hidden agenda you’ve found in a book or a song, an important piece of the story you only noticed after listening or reading the second time round. This effects my work by giving the viewer a sort of puzzle to work out, for example taking elements of a section and reconstructing it into an illustration. However some of my personal work collages fashion photography and illustration together which often rearranges them to reveal a different meaning. whether to use for a collage or to draw, its helpful if you are looking for something which will help provoke a certain emotion, such as the way a person is sat, or an expression on their face.I am also very inspired by other collections which are mostly for my own personal nostalgia, yet help to evolve my own personal style. My library of french pattern is often found incorporated in my work and if an open brief is given, inspiration from them will often be used if appropriate.
Image from the “Black Lips” collection
“ Altogether the image is soft on
the eye, yet the gestures of the characters display a certain uneasiness and anxiousness for the crucial contrast.”
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How did you get into illustration? Have you always been interested in illustration? By the time I was in my last year of school I was getting into illustration without knowing that’s what it was. I think the general idea of illustration for most people is the pictures in childrens story books and formal scientific drawings in books to help the reader understand something. I was looking at illustrators who thought at the time were fine artists when in fact the two careers couldn’t be more different. When I moved onto collage I realised the difference between the two was often the purposes it’s used for and who uses it. I thought it sounded like the complete dream job, I knew straight away that was what I wanted to do.
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection
Who do you find is exceptionally inspiring to you? Designers and illustrators who stand out for me, and who I look up to for their ever evolving standard of work are M/M paris, Non-format, Coralie Bickford- Smith, Marian Bantjes, DeanneCheuk, the list could go on.. The writers who inspire me are Jack Karouac, Leonard Cohen, Emily Dickinson, Angela Carter, Vladimir Nabokov, Carol Ann Duffy, Lewis Carroll Artists such as William Morris, Dali, John Stezaker, Amie Dicke
Images from the “Black Lips” collection
“ What excites me inspirationally is playing with a hidden agenda you’ve found in a book or a song, an important piece of the story you only noticed after listening or reading the second time round “
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection 114
What do you love about illustration? I think it is one of the few jobs you can do where a person who is passionate about as many things as I am can combine all of them together. I find for me it is a way of collecting all the things I love and recreating them into visuals. It can also be a way of looking at something existing in another way and expressing your love for something. If there was one person in the world you could collaborate with, who would it be? M/M paris. Every collaboration they have done has been beautiful and most are hung on my walls, they have been my favourite since I discovered design. What’s your favourite colour and why? This is tough! The colours I find myself using most don’t reflect my personal colour pallet at all, the colours I use are usually what fits best for that brief, instead of my preferred colours. If I had to pick, it would be black. If we are going along the lines of black isn’t a colour- very dark blue.
“I think if you have enough ambition and passion for what you do there’s no reason why you can’t be successful”
Do you have a technique to your drawings? is it all free hand or do you use technology to enhance your images? It would start as a sketch, or a small happy accident in a sketchbook which will develop. Then I try and do most of the image by hand, if not all, by collaging images on top of each other, organising composition and using my light box to see how the layers will interact. For the final piece I will touch up the layers needed, and place the layers together digitally. This of course all depends on the brief, if a more authentic approach is needed I will do as much by hand as possible. What is your dream job? Being successful in illustration and continuing to learn. I think if you have enough ambition and passion for what you do there’s no reason why you can’t be successful. I don’t believe in taking the easy way out with your career, and self belief is crucial. If I could pick a particular persons job, it would be Coralie Bickford-Smith, who is the senior cover designer at Penguin Books. What is the last book you read? Phillipa Gregorys ‘The Boleyn Inheritance’
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection
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If you could be any character in fiction, whom would you be? Claire Abshire in ‘The Time Travellers Wife’. I felt like she could be me when I’m older, Audrey Niffenegger is one of the best authors to connect you to a character, she’s also pretty good at illustration too. What are you currently working on? I am currently in the process of 2 projects, firstly designing a selection booklets which include one poem per book, each book opens up to reveal an illustration to sum up the whole poem or one particular line on the other side. I have illustrated Emily Dickinsons ‘Hope’ by sourcing her own inspiration which was nature and her passion of gardening, and using a decorative traditional pattern created with the time period of her writing in mind. I am also Illustrating a book to be published in the near future, of prose and poetry for children. What future projects are you working towards? I have recently started a commission creating patterns to be displayed on the packaging of a new range of skin care products, made almost entirely from nature. The reference on the brief given was of the work of William Morris, which made this a project I can’t wait to do. The ingredients used are simple and natural, which will be considered within the patterns.
Images from the “Black Lips” collection
What’s next for you? Hopefully bigger and better things. More challenges and more happy clients.
Special thanks to Stephanie for making this interview possible
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection
“No other colour will be the new black. Nothing says classic like it.”
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“My longest life collections are of my shells and fossils, I believe the most beautiful things are grown from nature, especially the unusual objects, growth in general is a recurring theme.”
Images from the “Black Lips” collection
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Images from the “Black Lips” collection
“I find collecting a big part of what I do and have a large archive of found imagery from second hand books.” 121
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Come to
Tea 123
Menu Macaroons Lemon Meringue Cupcakes Chocolate eclairs Sugar Stars Miniature Victoria Sponge 124
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Photo: Amy Kate Felicity Hargreaves
You will need: 150 g icing sugar
Macaroons
75g ground almonds
Makes about 2 large egg whites 20 macaroons pinch of salt 35g caster sugar pink, green or yellow food colouring paste
1. Preheat the oven to 160째C/fan140째C/gas 3. Whizz the icing sugar and ground almonds in a food processor to a very fine mixture, then sift into a bowl . 2. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt to soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar until thick and glossy. At this point you can stir in flavour extract, such as peppermint and corresponding colouring i.e.blue to your meringue mixture, depending on what kind of macaroons you want . 126
Or divide the meringue among different bowls if you want to make more than one colour) 3. Fold half the almond and icing sugar mixture into the meringue and mix well. Add the remaining half, making sure you use a spatula to cut and fold the mixture until it is shiny and has a thick, ribbon-like consistency as it falls from the spatula. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a 1cm plain nozzle. 4. Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper. Pipe small rounds of the macaroon mixture, about 3cm across, onto the baking sheets. Give the baking sheets a sharp tap on the work surface to ensure a good ‘foot’. Leave to stand at room temperature for 1015 minutes to form a slight skin. This is important – you should be able to touch them lightly without any mixture sticking to your finger. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool. 5. Meanwhile, make the fillings. In a bowl, beat the butter until light and fluffy, then beat in the icing sugar. (You can now add flavouring or nuts, and colour and use this to sandwich pairs of the macaroons together.
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Lemon Meringue cupcakes You will need:
For the cupcakes 100g/3½oz butter, softened 100g/3½oz sugar 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out using a sharp knife 2 free-range eggs 100g/3½oz self-raising flour 1 lemon, zest only 75g of ready-made lemon curd
For the meringue 2 free-range egg whites 100g/3½oz sugar 128
makes 12-16
1. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. 2. For the cupcakes, cream the butter, sugar and vanilla seeds together in a large mixing bowl until pale, fluffy and well combined. 3. Crack in the eggs, one at a time, and beat until both are fully incorporated into the mixture. Fold in the flour and lemon zest until well combined. 4. Place 12 paper or foil cupcake cases into the wells of a muffin tray, then spoon in the cupcake batter. Add a teaspoonful of lemon curd to the top of each cupcake. 5. Bake the cupcakes in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until they are pale golden-brown and spring back when pressed lightly in the centre. 6. Meanwhile, for the meringue, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed. Gradually add the sugar, whisking continuously, until stiff peaks form when the whisk is removed and the mixture is thick and glossy. When the cakes are cooked, turn off the oven and preheat the grill to its highest setting. 7. Spoon the meringue over the cupcakes and tease it into spikes using a fork. Use a blowtorch to gently singe the top of the meringue until it is golden-brown.
You will need:
For the éclairs
150g/5½oz unsalted butter 225ml/8fl oz water 225g/8oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting 6 free-range eggs
1. For the éclairs, place the butter and water into a pan and bring up to the boil. 2. Once the butter has melted, take the pan off the heat and tip in all the flour. Beat well with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes away from the sides of the pan. 3. Beat in the eggs one at a time until completely incorporated. Stir in the salt.
pinch salt 300ml/½ pint double cream
For the sauce
100g/3½oz caster sugar 100ml/3½fl oz water 50g/2oz dark chocolate, broken into pieces 25g/1oz butter
Chocolate eclairs
makes 6-8
4. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and allow to cool for a few minutes. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. 5. Pipe about 6-8 lengths of pastry onto a floured baking sheet. The pastry will at least double in size as it cooks, so give the éclairs plenty of space to expand on the baking sheet. 6. Transfer to the oven and bake the éclairs for about 30-40 minutes, or until golden-brown and firm. 7. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. 8. In a bowl, whip the cream until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed. Slice the éclairs in half lengthways and fill with cream. 9. For the sauce, place the sugar and water into a pan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 4-5 minutes, or until it thickens. Take the pan off the heat and leave to cool for five minutes. 10. Add the chocolate and butter to the pan and stir well until the chocolate has melted. Allow to cool, stirring occasionally. When the sauce has cooled and thickened, spread it on top of the éclairs and serve.
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You will need: 250 g caster sugar
food colouring paste (pink, blue, yellow, green)
makes lots!
Line 2 baking sheets with non-stick baking parchment. Put the sugar into a bowl, add 1–2 tablespoons cold water and stir thoroughly until the sugar takes on the texture of damp sand, the kind you’d use to make sandcastles, adding more water or sugar to achieve the correct texture. Tip half the mixture on to one of the baking sheets and press firmly to a thickness of 1cm. Using a small heart-shaped cookie cutter, stamp out shapes, one at a time. Using your fingers, gently push each sugar heart out of the cutter and on to the second baking sheet.
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Repeat until you have used up all the white sugar mixture.
Using a cocktail stick, add a tiny amount of pink food colouring paste to the remaining mixture and stir until combined. Stamp out more hearts in the sameway. Leave to dry overnight.
Sugar Cubes
You will need: For the cake:
Heat oven to 190ยบC (gas mark 5). Butter and lightly dust with flour 6 individual tins measuring about 7.5 cm in diameter and 5.5 cm in height.
200g caster sugar 200g unsalted butter, softened plus a little for greasing 4 medium eggs
200g self-raising flour, sieved
2tbsp milk
Beat together the unsalted butter and sugar in a large bowl with a wooden spoon or preferably an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. This can take up to 10 mins. Break the eggs into small bowl and add the vanilla extract. Beat the mixture lightly with a fork.
1tsp vanilla extract
1tsp baking powder
Miniature Victoria Sponge
makes 6
For the filling: 100g unsalted butter, softened 150g icing sugar, sifted A drop of vanilla extract 340g jar good-quality British strawberry jam Caster sugar, to decorate
Add the egg very gradually to the mixture. Do this slowly to avoid curdling. If the mix does curdle add a tablespoon of the flour. Once all the eggs are in, fold in the flour with a large metal spoon. The mixture should be of a dropping consistency, if not add a little milk. Divide the mixture between the tins, smooth the surface. Bake for about 20 mins until golden and the cakes springs back when pressed. Turn onto a cooling rack and leave to cool completely. To make the butter icing: Beat the unsalted butter until smooth and creamy, then gradually beat in icing sugar. Beat in vanilla extract. Split the cakes in half. Spread the butter cream over the bottom half and top it with jam. Sandwich with the top. Dust with a little caster sugar before serving.
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Coralia ‘s
To Travel 132
Here’s a short guide to our most loved uk Cities for you to explore this month. Follow our guide to the best eatery’s, boutique shops and luxurious boudiours to enable you to have the most wonderful stay. This month’s Beautifulcity is
York X
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To stay Ceader Court Hotel £££ The first five star Hotel to be awarded to an establishment in york- the Ceader court does not disappoint. With prices starting from £140 for a double room (room only) and extremely easy access to the station and centre of town, this is the perfect place to rest your feet after a hard day pounding the streets and wonderful boutique shops or wild time dancing the night away
To eat Pizza Express ££ This pizza and pasta chain is one of the leading italian restaurants in the UK With delicious traditional italian recipes with an english twist, the likes of of canneloni, Quattro fromagio and Contadina are a must. The location of the restaurant is sublime, with gigantic open windows looking out onto the river and a classically trained pianist to add to the atmosphere this is the perfect location for a romantic meal.
To shop Priestleys vintage £££ This wonderful vintage store is tucked away down one of york’s beautfil cobbled streets. With mpressive window displays that a kitsch and cute, and a display of enchanting garmets and accessories, this is the perfect shopping haven for a vintage-a-holic. 134
York
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Coralia 01
A.P.C www.APC.FR Alexander Wang www.alexanderwang.com asos www.asos.com Bolangaro Trevor www.bolangarotrevor.com chanel www.chanel.com charlotte olympia www.charlotteolympia.com Charlotte TAylor www.charlottetaylorltd.com H&m www.h&m.com Jeffrey Campbell www.jefferycampbell.com J Brand Jbrandjeans.com Kurt geiger www.kurtgeiger.com Linda Farrow www.lindafarrow.co.uk
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Where to get the things you
Stockists
Issue
Melissa www.melissa.com Muubaa www.muubaa.co.uk Mulberry www.mulberry.com paul&joe sister www.paulandjoe.com/collection-sister primark www.primark.com Religion www.religion.com sessun www.sessun.com sperry www.sperrytopsider.com Topshop www.topshop.com Totem www.totem.co.uk wolford www.wolford.com YMC ww.ymc.com
LOVE
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