Fashion map trend report

Fig 1

FASHION MAP

Fig 2

Amy Livesey N0682277 Word count: 2, 731

Ethics clause I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this product.

Name

Date

Fig 3

CONTENTS Introduction

1

Social influences

31

Methodology

2

The catwalk

35

Trends

5

Shop safari

37

Trend mapping

8

Street style

41

Athleisure trend

9

Styling shoot

48

Bralette trend

13

Magazine editorial

53

Super brights trend

17

Conclusion

61

Slogan tee trend

21

References

63

History

25

Bibliography

64

Life cycle

29

Appendix

65

Cultural influences

30

Illustrations

69

INTRODUCTION Fig 4

This report will look at four key trends for Spring/Summer 2017, including bralettes, athleisure, super brights and the main trend of slogan tees. It was important to analyse the current fashion trends available on the high street using primary and secondary research.

It was important to analyse why the slogan tee trend was happening and what was driving it, as well as the cultural and social influences. Primary and secondary research was carried out, as well as a styling shoot and editorial. The styling shoot involved choosing a location, props and models for the shoot, that was best able to showcase the trend. These images were then worked into a fashion editorial.

1

METHODOLOGY Both primary and secondary research was conducted to help get a better understanding of the current high street fashion trends.

Online survey Creating an online survey to be able to ask questions about the slogan tee trend to a wide demographic.

Shop Safari This involved searching high street shops, such as New Look, Topshop and H&M for the Spring/Summer 2017 trend of slogan tees.

Street style photos In Nottingham looking at the public street style of the chosen trend, photographing members of the public wearing slogan tees.

Interviews Members of the public who were wearing slogan tees were asked questions in relation to what they think about the trend and why they purchased the slogan tee.

Secondary research Secondary research included books, magazines and websites. Websites used included WGSN, articles, magazines and blogs.

Fig 5

2

“Trends are analysed and followed by many consumers and manufacturers who use them as a way of establishing an order in the chaotic world of fashion�(Zegheanu, 2017).

3

Fig 6

Fig 7

Spring/Summer 2017 trends

Fig 8

Fig 9

4

TRENDS What is a trend?

“A trend refers to a general direction or movement” (Stone, 2008). Trends simply reflect what is popular at the time and can be in any area. Trends impact all parts of society, and this is why they are so important. They relate to much bigger influences than just fashion, such as globalization, health and wellbeing, technology and female empowerment. These are just some of the macro trends that relate to what is happening in society today and will influence the fashion industry and trends of the future.

What is trend forecasting?

“Trend forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons” (Posner, 2011). They supply consumer insight, information on emerging trends, reports on catwalks and fabric forecasting. It is important for brands to be aware of changing fashion trends, “the trick with fashion is to try and predict the future” (Posner, 2011). Retailers and manufacturers use forecasting companies to help them with important product decisions.

Why is it important to study trends?

It is important to study trends because the fashion industry “is worth over $1 trillion globally and ranked the second biggest worldwide economic activity for intensity of trade” (Corner, 2014). Companies study fashion trends as it helps brands know what clothing, styles and fabrics to invest in each season. This could make or break the brands sale numbers. Trend forecasting’s role in fashion marketing is that they determine what retailers stock in store. Fashion trends change over time and this is why it is important for them to be studied.

5

What influences trends?

Along with the impact of world events trends are also influenced by cultural, social and economic factors. Social influences like the media and celebrities have always played a big role in influencing fashion. The internet is the most powerful media around the world and has helped expand fashion journalism’s influence.

Fashion journalism includes online fashion magazines, websites, and blogs. The internet and social media has helped fashion become accessible worldwide.

The life cycle of a trend Trends run through a life span process; they have a fairly short product life cycle because trends and tastes change so regularly. During the introductory stage, the trend is introduced by a designer, if a fashion style ends in this stage it is known as a fad. In the growth stage, the trend is made familiar to the fashion shows and magazines. During the maturity stage the trend is made common to the public and is widely available at high street retailers. When a customer purchases and wears a certain trend it is considered accepted. In the decline stage, the trend becomes common in the mass market and is often discounted in stores.

6

Fig 10

7

TREND MAPPING

Trends are forever evolving and changing. Trend mapping is looking at how a trend develops and merges into a main stream trend movement. Trend maps help show where a trend began, how far along it is in its development and where it may lead to next, so brands are able to make smart decisions. .

The newest trends first appear on the catwalk, which high street retailers then take influence from. It is often a quick transition from catwalk to high street, this is called fast fashion.

8

Fig 11

9

ATHLEISURE TREND

10

GiGi Hadid street style

Fig 16 Fig 12

COLOURS Fig 14

Fig 15

Celebrity Style

Athleisure

Street Style

IVY PARK

Dolce & Gabbana

Victoria’s Secret

Fig 19

Fig 20

TOPSHOP

Versace Fig 18

Fig 13

R E A DY FASHION TOPSHOP

Fig 24

Fig 23

Fig 22

W EA R Fig 25

Sweaty Betty

Fig 21

TO

Alexander Wang

Fig 17

Catwalk

Shop Safari

Fig 27

Spring/Summer Fig 28

2017 11

Adidas

Fig 26

What is the trend?

Athleisure is the combination of both casual and athletic wear. It is defined as “casual clothing designed to be worn for both exercising and for general use” (Weinswig, 2016).

It appeals to a wide variety of consumers because it is appropriate for almost every situation.

“Fashion and sport merge for the optimum athleisure silhouette” (WGSN, 2017).

Why is this trend happening?

The athleisure trend filled a gap in the market, where clothing that was functional wasn’t particularly stylish. “The athleisure trend has seen consumers increasingly purchasing activewear for leisure purposes, with 52% of consumers now buying sportswear items for non-sports use” (Dover, 2016).

“The athleisure market has been turbocharged by the number of people buying sportswear with no intention of breaking into a sweat” (Armstrong, 2016).

What is driving this trend?

The trend is being driven by the widespread cultural shift to a focus on health and fitness, making it more acceptable to wear comfortable and casual clothing. Bloggers and social media have also helped drive the trend.

12

Fig 29

13

BRALETTE TREND 14

Fig 33

Fig 30

COLOURS Spring/Summer 2017 trends

Giambattista Valli

Fig 32

River Island

Fig 31

Shop Safari

Fig 34

PRADA

Fig 35

Fig 36

Fashion Week Kendall Jenner

Victoria Beckham

FASHION

Fig 38

Celebrity style

BRALETTE Fig 39

STREET STYLE

Ready to Wear

Fig 40

Urban Outfitters

Alexander Wang

Fig 41

Fig 43

Fig 42

CATWALK 15

Zara

Victoria’s Secret

Fig 37

What is the trend?

The bralette is one of the years hottest trends and is everywhere this season. Spring/ Summer is all about the lace bralette and showing it off. The trend is to wear the bralette over the top of a t-shirt, of any style, colour and fabric.

“A lightweight feminine take on the bra that combines the comfortable underpinnings of a sport bra with the more

embellished elements of a fashion bra” (Gustafson, 2016) Why is this trend happening?

The bralette trend is happening because of the unstoppable “athleisure” trend, which is all about comfort and style. The bralette is comfortable and more feminine than a classic bra.

What is driving this trend?

The trend has been driven by the athleisure craze and the desire for comfort. Celebrity influence has also been a major contribution to the rise of this trend, for example the moment Kendall Jenner’s daring bralette moment at Coachella.

Fig 44

16

Fig 45

17

SUPER BRIGHTS TREND

18

Fig 49

Fig 46

COLOURS MissPap

Fig 47

Fig 48

Fig 51

SUPER BRIGHTS

Shop safari Fig 50

Fig 54

Celebrity style

FASHION

Fig 58

Versus

Fig 57 Fig 56

ASOS

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

Mother of Pearl

Fig 53

Emma Stone

Fig 52

Fig 55

Catwalk

Roksanda

SPRING/SUMMER 2017

Fig 60 Fig 61

Street Style

19

Fig 59

What is the trend?

The super brights trend is all about wearing the brightest colours possible. Spring/ Summer 2017 has sparked a return to bolder shades. “This trend is an opportunity to employ the most shocking shades and no small dose will do” (Young 2017).

This might not seem like an easy trend to pull off, but it really is. “Those that are unsure shouldn’t be afraid to show their true colours” (Young, 2017).

Why is this trend happening?

Brightly coloured clothing has been seen all over the runway and is an easy way to transform an outfit. People are wanting to be confident and push the boundaries and wear more daring colours as seen on models and celebrities such as Emma Stone.

“Take your pick from the multicolour closet of S/S 17. From Kermit green to sunshine yellow, there’s only one rule: Wear LOTS of it.” (Almassi, 2017).

What is driving this trend?

Celebrity influence has definitely helped drive the trend, Emma Stone in her latest film, La La Land, wears an array of brightly coloured dresses, the most iconic being a yellow dress. ASOS are now stocking more bright yellow dresses than ever before.

20

Fig 62

SLOGAN SLOGAN TEES TEE TREND TREND

21

22

INTRODUCTION Fig 63

“Take the political sloganeering of this election cycle and add in fashion’s current love of merch and you have this season’s boldest trend: the slogan T-shirt. Seen on runways from New York to Paris, the wordy tees are everywhere.” (Yotka, 2016) Mouthy slogan tees are a way of addressing the unsaid in bold ways.

23

Fig 64

24

HISTORY OF SLOGAN TEES Fig 65

Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren made political T-shirts to sell in their shop, SEX, and the most popular design featured a swastika under the word “Destroy”.

Fig 67

The women’s-suffrage movement in the U.S was when slogan where first being used in a ploitical movement.

1903 THE PAST

1970

1983 1960 Katharine Hamnet is an English fashion designer known for her political t-shirts. Her oversized slogan t-shirts launched in 1983 and were adopted by pop bands, including Wham.

Fig 66

Fig 68

The first slogan T-shirts were sold by Mr Freedom, a shop on London’s Kings Road set up by Tommy Roberts and Trevor Myles.

25

“From its humble counter-culture origins to its current status as a high-street fashion staple, the slogan T-shirt has a noble history.” - Sibbles, 2009 Fig 69

Slogan tees started being printed with slogans that read ‘bae’ and ‘squad goals’ on them.

Fig 71

2015

2006

2017

2012

THE PRESENT

Henry Holland produced a series of tongue-in-cheek t-shirts. Highstreet stores rushed to produce copy cat versions.

Designers like Alexander Wang have showcased their slogan tees on the catwalk, and it’s caused a slogan tee frenzy on the high street.

Fig 70

Fig 72

The idea of wearing a political message on your clothing was brought back up by MP Caroline Lucas’ ‘ ‘No more Page 3’ protest.

26

“We live in a mass

communication information age where many people have a short attention span and an identity crisis.

Fig 73

27

A printed tee is a quick, sure-fire way to communicate and express your identity.�

(Judah, 2015)

28

TRENDS LIFE CYCLE

Life cycle of the slogan tee trend The life cycle looks at the life span of the trend during the time it exists, as it goes through the four stages. The trend starts on the catwalk, develops through to the high street and then makes its way onto people on the street.

Slogan tees seen on the S/S 17 catwalk by designers like Michael Kors and Christian Dior.

High street stores like H&M and Zara brought out their own slogan tees not long after.

Fig 76

Fig 75

Fig 74

High Street strores all adopt the trend and consumers demand for slogan tees increases.

29

Slogan tees still very current on the street and and high street. The trends predicted not to fall into decline until S/S 18.

Fig 77

CULTURAL INFLUENCES

Slogan tees have a long history, for years they have been used “as objects of protest and political point-scoring.” (Townshend, 2016). They have been allowing people to subtly send messages since the 1960s when a shop called Mr Freedom opened, selling the first slogan tees. One of the most famous slogan tees was British designer Katherine Hamnett’s ‘58% don’t want Pershing’ shirt, an anti nuclear statement, which she wore to a meeting with Margaret Thatcher. “Shock and scandal has been a factor in the slogan tee’s popularity since its birth” (Hauser, 2017).

Slogan tees are back to voice political opinions, with feminist slogan tees cropping up all over the catwalk, internet and high street. The macro trend of female empowerment has certainly influenced the fashion industry when it comes to slogan tees.

30

SOCIAL INFLUENCES

Fig 78

Fig 80

Fig 79

Celebrities are a massive social influence of slogan tees and have helped drive the trend. Consumers are constantly being bombarded with images of what celebrities are wearing. Celebrities are a big inspiration for what people wear and therefore are a big social influence of the trend. In recent years slogan tees have been seen popular amongst all types of celebrities, from musicians to models.

Celebrities such as Rhianna and Kendall Jenner have been seen wearing slogan tees. Rhianna was photographed in Christian Dior’s sell out “We Should All Be Feminists” slogan tee. After this, high street stores such as H&M and Topshop picked up on the trend and started to sell feminist slogan tees.

31

Social media is such a big part of today’s society, and has had a massive influence on the slogan tee trend. This drives how people shop and what they wear.

In a survey “29% of people said that social media is what helps them to decide what to buy and how to wear it” (Anon, 2015). This just proves the power of the internet, it has helped make fashion widely accessible, through online catwalks, magazines and blogs.

Through social media, consumers are constantly getting updates on what their favourite celebrities are wearing, as well as being able to see what is trending in certain shops. Consumers are also seeing how bloggers are styling the trend, with “11% saying they credit bloggers as more inspirational than fashion designers” (Anon, 2015). Even the average person can influence trends in ways not possible before because of social media. Research actually shows that friends are more of an influence on young people than celebrities. A Mintel survey found that “33% of 15-24 year olds prefer to get fashion inspiration from people similar to their own age” (Goody, 2016), therefore outfits viewed on social media play a very important role in consumers purchasing decisions.

Fig 81

32

Fig 82

33

Slogan tees are tribal. “Wearing one is like branding yourself �

(Klerk, 2017)

34

THE CATWALK

Slogan tees were seen all over the Spring/Summer 2017 catwalk, “especially prominent were slogans promoting feminism, self worth and encouragement to seek satisfaction within” (Doupnik, 2017). 2017 has been the year of the slogan tee becoming a political fashion statement. The catwalk has allowed political messages to be passed on to the public in a fashion led way.

The catwalk witnessed an array of slogan tees from fashion designers like Michael Kors and Christian Dior. Dior’s “We Should All Be Feminists” slogan tee “was available to pre-order, but demand was so high, it promptly sold out, despite the £490 price tag” (Graafland, 2017).

The feminist statement resonated with customers and the t-shirt soon became the new fashion must have.

S/S 17 saw a wave of slogan t-shirts with captions including ‘Girls just want to have fundamental rights’, ‘Fashion is a passion’ and ‘The future is female’. The t-shirts were mainly plain with bold lettering and were kept simple because the designers wanted the attention to be on what the slogans read and not the actual garment.

35

Fig 83

Fig 84

Prabal Gurung Fig 85

Jeremy Scott Fig 87

Fig 86 Fig 88

Prabal Gurung Michael Kors Sacai

House of Holland

Fig 89

Fig 90

Christian Dior

36

SHOP SAFARI Fig 91

Fig 92

TOPSHOP

Fig 93

H&M Fig 95

Fig 94

Fig 97

Fig 96

H&M

RIVER ISLAND

TOPSHOP Fig 99

Fig 98

H&M

H&M

URBAN OUTFITTERS

37

PRIMARK

As primary research a shop safari was carried out amongst high street stores. The majority of the stores visited featured at least one slogan tee, but some shops had more.

The main high street stores that slogan tees were found in included Primark, Topshop, H&M, River Island and Urban Outfitters. H&M definitely stocked the most slogan tees.

Feminist slogan t-shirts were found in Topshop and H&M. Female empowerment is such a big macro trend and feminist slogan tees are the most obvious way of showing this.

The shops that stock the slogan tees give an idea of the demographic the trend is being aimed at. Shops like Topshop and H&M are mainly targeted at students, a younger demographic.

The style and colour of the slogan tees varied but the most prominent colours were white, pink and black. It was found very popular to either have white text on a black top or black text on a white top as the slogan then stands out.

Slogans were also found on bodysuits, sleepwear and the backs and pockets of coats. The three main styles of slogan tees include subtle (fig 95 ) bold (fig 91 ) and boxed slogans (fig 92 ).

The high street retailers have taken inspiration from the recent Spring/Summer trends seen on the catwalk. When walking into a high street shop it’s almost impossible to avoid seeing one of the iconic slogan tees.

38

‘If I saw a girl wearing a feminist slogan t-shirt I would be like yes go for it!’ - Charlie, 2017

39

Fig 100

40

STREET STYLE

Fig 101

Fig 102

Fig 103

Fig 104

Fig 105

Fig 106

Fig 107

Fig 108

Fig 109

In a survey “53% of people said they own a slogan tee” (Surveymonkey, 2017).

As seen in Appendix 3 41

Street style photos and interviews were taken as more primary research, to try and find out who was buying the trend, what influenced them to buy it, how they were styling it and how common the trend actually was on the streets of Nottingham.

‘There is no avoiding slogan tees, every shop I go in I always see one and it’s hard to resist buying.’ - Alisha, 2017 The trend proved most popular with girls of an age demographic of 16-24, mainly students. People tended to style the trend in a similar way, with jeans, either tucked in or out.

‘I am often influenced by what is trending on the catwalk.’

- Abbie, 2017 Despite no one actually being seen in a feminist slogan tee, two interviewees said they wouldn’t be afraid to wear one.

‘I think wearing a feminist t-shirt would definitely turn heads and make an impact on others but I like this and this is why I would wear one.’ - Abbie, 2017 This trend has proven to have a strong presence on the street and interviewees spoke about how they liked that the slogan tees portrayed a bold message and allowed them to stand out amongst a crowd.

‘I like the fact that it’s the slogan t-shirt that does the talking.

Every slogan tee is individual and says something about the person wearing it.’ - Lauren, 2017

42

“I really love the irony and quirkiness my slogan tee has. It is more of a stand out piece rather than ones you might see in places like Topshop.�

- Lauren, 2017 Fig 110

43

Where did you purchase your slogan tee?

“It is from Lazy Oaf, I love the quirkiness of their slogan tees.”

What inspired you to buy a slogan tee?

“I really love the irony and quirkiness my slogan tee has. It is more of a stand out piece rather than ones you might see in places like Topshop.”

Would you ever wear a feminist slogan tee?

“I think I would wear a feminist slogan tee, but as a more iconic piece.

I would class myself as a feminist and therefore would happily wear a feminist slogan t-shirt.”

Do you think this trend is here to stay?

“I think the trend is definitely here to stay, but will be reinvented over the years. I think it will always remain a statement piece in our modern trends.”

44

“In an industry based on products both constrained and extreme, the messages seen during New York Fashion Week followed suit�

(Doupnik, 2017).

45

Fig 111

46

Fig 112

47

STYLING SHOOT

48

MOOD BOARD INSPIRATION

49

Fig 113

Fig 114

Fig 116

Fig 115

Fig 118

Fig 119

Fig 117 Fig 120

Fig 121

50

Fig 122

Fig 124 Fig 122

Fig 123

Fig 125

Fig 126 Fig 127

Fig 128

Fig 129

Fig 130

51

The slogan tees political background was an important factor when deciding where to locate the photo shoot. As protests are held outside this was where it was thought best to locate the shoot. The natural light would help get good quality photos. It was decided that the shoot would be best taken in Market Square, which is the heart of the city. The main reason for this location was the fact it is by Nottingham Council House, a political and iconic building. This linked in well with the political story of the shoot. The name for the shoot would be ‘The Feminist Protest’.

The main aim of the shoot, was for everything to be natural, hence the location and model choice. Models were chosen at random and asked to come with natural makeup as the attention did not want to be taken away from the slogan tees. There were thirteen models involved in the shoot, as this amount of people helped make a big impact.

The feminist slogan tees were hand made, using either transfer paper, permanent markers, paint or fabric. This helped give the shoot a uniqueness to it, as all the t-shirts were different. It was important to make sure all the models styled the t-shirts individually, no two models looked the same. There was a real diversification within the shoot as this would have been the case in a real live protest.

The props used were limited, as again it may act as a distraction from the slogan tees. The only prop used in the shoot were banners. To link with the theme of the shoot the banners were painted in the suffragette colours of purple and green. The banners helped the shoot to look like an actual protest.

The mood of the shoot was fairly playful as it obviously wasn’t an actual protest, the models were captured being relaxed, laughing and having fun. Some of the photos however, do have a seriousness about them and show the models looking determined and passionate. Inspiration for the shoot was taken from the catwalk, for example when Chanel staged a feminist protest.

52

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL

53

The images taken in the style shoot were then used in a magazine editorial. The images taken in the style shoot would be targeted at a female consumer, that is interested in fashion trends, as well as political issues such as feminism, this is why it is going to be featured in Teen Vogue magazine.

Vogue has an average aged reader of 33, which was a slightly too old demographic for the slogan tee trend, this is why Teen Vogue was chosen instead as it is more age appropriate for the trend, attracting readers aged 13-21.

The readers of Teen Vogue are still very fashion focused and keep up to date with trends. They would be interested in reading about the slogan tee trend because it’s relevant and seen on both the high street and catwalk.

Fig 131

54

Fig 132

Spring/Summer 2017 is all about letting the slogan tee do the talking.

SAY IT WITH A SLOGAN TEE 55

Say it with a slogan tee. Slogan tees are the new, hottest trend, straight off the runway. One glance at the Spring/Summer 2017 collections and it’s impossible to miss the fact people want their messages seen. You’ll see these wordy tees everywhere, it has become an overnight style sensation and can be seen from the catwalk to the high street. The high street is making way for the bold, adventurous trend of slogan tees.

Fig 133

56

Fig 134

57

58

Fig 135

It’s time to stand out from the crowd in a daring slogan tee that shows off your personality without having to say a word. People can’t not read a slogan you’re wearing on your body and they’re always quick to make an impact. Slogan tees are witty, fun and playful. Why would you not want to get your hands on one?

59

Fig 136

Any t-shirt can be ironic, but it’s all in how you style it.

Match your slogan tee with a pair of mom jeans and some comfortable trainers, for a casual look. This trend is bound to infuse a bold and playful mood into your outfit.

60

CONCLUSION Overall, the evidence looked at throughout this report shows that trends are everywhere around us. Trend forecasters, like the experts at WGSN work hard to try and predict trends, by tracking shifts in colour, pattern and fabric so they can give High Street retailers advice on what will be the season’s hot sellers. There are many factors that influence trends, from globalization and fast fashion to technology and social media. Fashion trends and fast fashion cause issues like poor working conditions in factories and using up resources, these will influence the future of fashion trends.

This project has helped show the complicated life cycle trends go through. From introduction and adoption to peak and eventual decline, a trend can be around for as little as a season. Lots of these trends haven’t just appeared out of nowhere and have cultural influences, like slogan tees cultural influence that dates all the way back to the 1900’s.

The chosen trend to be taken further in this report was Slogan tees, this was decided due to the catwalk proving it to be a key trend for Spring/Summer 2017. As well as high levels of reliable primary research like shop safaris and street style photos and interviews.

Fig 137

61

The chosen trend to be taken further in this report was Slogan tees, this was decided due to the catwalk proving it to be a key trend for Spring/Summer 2017. As well as high levels of reliable primary research like shop safaris and street style photos and interviews.

From the high levels of primary and secondary research it would be easy to say the trend had been a definite success as it was nearly impossible to avoid the bold slogan tees when either out on the street, in a high street shop or online. Interviews with sales assistants proved how popular the slogan tees have been with customers.

The trend has been highly successful through social media, as slogan tees have had high levels of coverage with online bloggers, the press and online social media sites, for example Instagram.

Celebrities have also been a key driver of the slogan tee trend as they are so influential.

The future for trends will be inspired by technological advances and a new generation of materials that are more technically crafted and will last longer. The future for trends will hopefully be more sustainable with designers creating more ethical collections. As a result people will also have an increased awareness of the impact of their purchasing decisions on the environment, this is called conscious consumption.

62

REFERENCES Almassi, H (2017). Spring/Summer 2017 Fashion Trends: The 7 Looks You Need to Know. [Online]. Available at: http://www. whowhatwear.co.uk/spring-summer-2017-fashion-trends/slide2 ANON (2015). Digital fashion trends: Social media a ‘big influence on nation’s wardrobe’. [Online]. Available at: http://www.digitalstrategyconsulting.com/intelligence/2015/04/digital_fashion_trends_social_media_a_big_influence_on_nations_wardrobe.php Armstrong, A (2016). The rise of athleisure: how the high street is cashing in on office-to-gym wear. [Online]. Available at: http:// www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2016/09/17/the-rise-of-athleisure-how-the-high-street-is-cashing-in-on-offi/ Corner, F (2015). Why Fashion Matters. 1st ed. Thames and Hudson.

Doupnik, E (2017). MAGIC Fall 2017 Trends: Slogans as Statements. [Online]. Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/ sportswear/magic-fall-2017-trends-slogans-10813085/ Dover, S (2016). The athleisure hype is heightened by Selfridges’ Body Studio. [Online]. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/768084/?highlight Goody, A (2016). Youth Fashion. [Online]. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/748923/?highlight Graafland, A (2017). How Dior’s feminist logo t-shirt became this season’s sell-out item - despite its eye-watering price tag. [Online]. Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/3am/style/celebrity-fashion/christian-diors-feminist-logo-shirt-10018190 Gustafson, K (2016). New lingerie trend could lift apparel sales. [Online]. Available at: http://www.cnbc.com/2016/04/07/newlingerie-trend-could-lift-apparel-sales.html?view=story&%24DEVICE%24=native-android-mobile Hauser, E (2017). Sassy Slogan Tees Are Here to Stay. [Online]. Available at: https://www.racked.com/2017/3/7/14779538/slogan-tees Judah, H (2015). The Return of the Graphic T-Shirt. [Online]. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/the-return-of-the-graphic-t-shirt Klerk, A (2017). The History of The Slogan T-shirt. [Online]. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a39193/the-history-of-the-slogan-t-shirt/ Posner, H (2011). Marketing Fashion. 1st ed. Laurence King.

Stone, E (2008). The Dynamics Of Fashion. 3rd ed. Fairchild Books.

SurveyMonkey (2017). Slogan tee Questionaire [Online]. Available at: https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/ Townsend, K (2016). Slogan t-shirts: The Politically Charged Fashion Statement is Being Revived. [Online]. Available at: http:// www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/slogan-t-shirts-the-politically-charged-fashion-statement-is-being-revived-a6868391.html Weinswig, D (2016). How ‘Athleisure’ Is Lighting Up Lackluster Clothing Sales. [Online]. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/ sites/deborahweinswig/2016/03/11/how-athleisure-is-lighting-up-lackluster-clothing-sales/#529be6867a41 WGSN (2017). Athleisure. [Online]. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/65683/page/12 Young, S (2017). Fashion is Getting a Super Bright Refit for Spring/Summer. [Online]. Available at: http://www.independent. co.uk/life-style/fashion/fashion-trend-spring-summer-2017-bright-colour-gucci-balenciaga-topshop-a7669141.html Yotka, S (2016). Slogan Tees Are All the Rage This Season, From New York to Paris. [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue. com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 Zegheanu, L (2017). Fashion Trends’ Impact On Society. [Online]. Available at: https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/fashion-trends%E2%80%99-impact-society

63

BIBLIOGRAPHY Books Clark, J. (2015 ) Fashion Merchandising: Principles and Practice. 1st ed. Palgrave.

Kim, E, Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H. (2011) Fashion Trends Analysis and Forecasting. 1st ed. Bloomsbury.

Posner, H (2011) Marketing Fashion. 1st ed. Laurence King.

Raymond, M (2010) The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. 1st ed. Laurence King.

Articles ANON (2017). When the t-shirts do the talking. [Online]. Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/ gallery/celebrity-slogan-t-shirts Armstrong, A (2016). The rise of athleisure: how the high street is cashing in on office-to-gym wear. [Online].

Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2016/09/17/the-rise-of-athleisure-how-the-high-street-iscashing-in-on-offi/ Gordon, G (2017). Understanding the Life Cycle of a Fashion Trend. [Online]. Available at: https://www.savoirflair.com/fashion/237591/fashion-decoded-life-cycle-fashion-trend Hauser, E (2017). Sassy Slogan Tees Are Here to Stay. [Online]. Available at: https://www.racked. com/2017/3/7/14779538/slogan-tees Hobbs, J (2017). How To Wear A Slogan T-shirt (Without Looking Like A Fashion Victim). [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/how-to-wear-a-slogan-t-shirt-now Klerk, A (2017). The History of The Slogan T-shirt. [Online]. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/ fashion/fashion-news/news/a39193/the-history-of-the-slogan-t-shirt/ Sowray, B (2016). Gigi, Bella and Kendall Get The Slogan Tee Treatment For House Of Holland’s 10th Anniversary. [Online]. Available at: http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/what-to-wear/news/a31915/henry-holland-slogan-tees-bella-gigi-hadid-kendall-jenner/ WGSN (2017). Prints and Graphics Spring. [Online]. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/reports/?searchId=8842096#/slogan%2520tees Yotka, S (2016). Slogan Tees Are All the Rage This Season, From New York to Paris. [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 Other sources ANON (2016). Most Important Factors When Buying Clothes. [Online]. Available at: http://academic.mintel. com/display/772168/?highlight#hit1

64

APPENDIX APPENDIX 1

Interview 3 Do you have slogan tees in store?

Interview 1 -

“Yes, I would say they do. Mainly with 15 year olds or middle-aged women.”

“We have a few in womenswear but there are more in menswear. They have become very popular, I think because of feminism and things like lazy oaf as well, which are popular on Instagram.”

Would you ever wear one?

Would you wear a slogan tee yourself ?

“I personally wouldn’t wear one but I think they are alright if someone wants to be a bit funny.”

“Possibly yes, but some of them remind me of the tees that were around ages ago that said ‘geek’, which I really hated and there’s a little bit of that in it.”

Do your slogan tees sell well?

Do you think slogan tees will stay in or will they go out next season?

Would you be intimidated if you saw a girl in a feminist tee?

“I think slogan tees will always be in, at some point.”

“No, not at all”

Interview with shop assistant, River Island Nottingham, 3 May 2017.

What is the target age of the slogan tees?

“I would say from about 16 to 25, the trend is definitely aimed at a younger audience.”

Interview 2 –

Interview with shop assistant, Urban Outfitters Womenswear Nottingham, 3 May 2017.

If you saw a girl wearing a feminist t-shirt how would you feel?

“If I saw a girl wearing a feminist slogan t-shirt I would be like yes go for it.”

Interview 4 How do the slogan tees sell in menswear?

Do you sell any in here?

“They sell pretty well, a lot of men come in here to buy the slogan tees we sell.”

“Not in Topman, but Topshop we do.”

If you saw a women in a feminist tee would you be intimidated?

Do you think you would ever get them in here?

Maybe, last year we had the ‘squad’ and ‘goals’ t-shirts.” “ What kind of price where they?

“I don’t think I would really care.”

Do you think they are likely to stay in as a trend?

“£16-£18”

“I reckon they are likely to fizzle out, give it just under half a year.”

Interview with shop assistant, Topman Nottingham, 3 May 2017.

Interview with shop assistant, Urban Outfitters Menswear Nottingham, 3 May 2017.

65

Interview 5 -

Interview 7 -

Where did you purchase your slogan tee?

What inspired you to buy a slogan tee?

“It is from Lazy Oaf, I love the quirkiness of their slogan tees.”

“I am often influenced by what is trending on the catwalk, and I read a lot of magazines like Vogue and Elle.”

What inspired you to buy a slogan tee?

Would you ever wear a feminist slogan tee?

“I really love the irony and quirkiness my slogan tee has. It is more of a stand out piece rather than ones you might see in places like Topshop and H&M. I like the fact that it’s the slogan t-shirt that does the talking. Every slogan tee is individual and says something about the person wearing it.”

“I think wearing a feminist t-shirt would definitely turn heads and make an impact on others but I like this and this is why I would wear one.”

Do you think slogan tees are at all intimidating?

Would you ever wear a feminist slogan tee?

No, I don’t think people should be intimidated by someone wearing a slogan tee, and I definitely wouldn’t be.

“I think I would wear a feminist slogan tee, but as a more iconic piece. I would class myself as a feminist and therefore would happily wear a feminist slogan t-shirt.”

Street style interview with Abbie Long, Nottingham, 14 May 2017.

Do you think this trend is here to stay?

Interview 8 -

“I think the trend is definitely here to stay, but will be reinvented over the years. I think it will always remain a statement piece in our modern trends.”

What initially attracted you to the shirt?

“There is no avoiding slogan tees, every shop I go in I always see one and it’s hard to resist buying.”

“I’ve been brought up with a very strong mother.

Feminism is something that I’m really interested in, now that I’m older I’m asking more questions like why do women wear makeup? And why do women have to oppress themselves to please men? So when I saw the shirt I felt that it represented my beliefs. Also I was attracted to the shirt because it was more affordable and because the trend in and of itself has become more accessible.”

Would you ever wear a feminist slogan tee?

Do you think slogan tee’s are intimidating?

“I’m not sure if I would as I’m not a feminist and it wouldn’t really make sense for me to. I think a slogan tee you wear has to be relatable to you.”

“Depends on what the slogan is. For me, personally no. Things that I thought were more provocative for me would be wearing a plain white shirt with no bra underneath. In my opinion confidence masks taboos, when I’m outside and wearing the shirt I’m not scared.”

Street style interview with Lauren Bolton, Nottingham, 9 May 2017.

Interview 6 What inspired you to buy a slogan tee?

Do you think this trend is here to stay?

“I think the trend will stay till 2018 when new trends start coming in.”

Street style interview with Tamara Ismael, Nottingham, 10 May 2017.

Street style interview with Alisha Wala, Nottingham, 9 May 2017.

66

APPENDIX 2

67

APPENDIX 3

68

ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1 - [Online]. Available at: http://sweat.burnthis.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/fashion13.jpg (Accessed: 15 May 2017).

Fig 2 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/71/1f/28/711f28ca72079368c86e1a8aa76acb36.jpg (Accessed: 15 May 2017).

Fig 3 - [Online]. Available at: http://dresscodeable.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Fashion-Runway.jpg (Accessed: 20 May 2017) Fig 4 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/b6/02/a9/b602a9126bc776ef613373df82e30b05.jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017).

Fig 5 - [Online]. Available at: https://www.think-feel-discover.com/images/Fashion_1.png (Accessed: 27 May 2017) Fig 6 - [Online]. Available at: https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YMR1tt4POBg/WMMaHBKFyLI/AAAAAAAAFmo/S6dwUk1EKZIU5h9-_WqS7fQvKyF5EnkcACK4B/s1600/kendall-jenner-alexander-wang-ss17-spring-summer-2017-black-halter-neck-bralette. jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017).

Fig 7 - [Online]. Available at: http://cdn2-www.thefashionspot.com/assets/uploads/gallery/fall-2017-fashion-trends/prabal-gurung-rf17-1569.jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017).

Fig 8 - [Online]. Available at: http://m.buro247.me/thumb/640x1100_0/384_1.jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017).

Fig 9-[Online]. Available at: http://assets.vogue.com/photos/58919c74f88f7c2037367221/master/pass/13-Michael-Kors.jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017).

Fig 10 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.pantone.com/pages/fcr/images/FCR_SPR2015_Home_Banner_Img.jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017).

Fig 11 - [Online]. Available at: https://i2.wp.com/sporteluxe-wp.s3-ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/ streetnic-feature-1.jpg?fit=1068%2C812 (Accessed: 20 May 2017).

Fig 12 - [Online]. Available at: https://www.justthedesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Athleisure18.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 13 - [Online]. Available at: https://media.glamour.com/photos/5730a20577cd1e8c50813ca3/master/pass/gigi-bella-hadid-athleisure.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 14 - [Online]. Available at: http://fustany.com/images/en/content/header_image_Article_Main-Bella_Hadid-Athleisure-Street_Style.png (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 15 - [Online]. Available at: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0223/4813/files/20161116_slider3.jpg?451235516230772023 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 16 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/2c/b5/31/2cb53115197d7511352ca140774a573b. jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 17 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.theindustrylondon.com/ss17-runway-trend-athleisure-effect/ (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 18 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.theindustrylondon.com/ss17-runway-trend-athleisure-effect/ (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 19 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/7f/8b/fb/7f8bfb173e9662d1fb9c740dcc7a078e.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 20 - [Online]. Available at: http://cdn-img.instyle.com/sites/default/files/styles/622x350/public/images/2016/04/041426-beyonce-ivypark-lead.jpg?itok=qwPTh48d (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 21 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.vancouversun.com/cms/binary/10762249.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 22 - [Online]. Available at: https://s1.tchkcdn.com/g-zwR6B8sZWGWrf_XhaCSj_g/13/459657/540x810/r/0/ db25ac817500f9e525bb617498e4b404_unconsciousstyle.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 23 – [Online]. Available at: https://cdnc.lystit.com/photos/topshop/12R17LNAV-NAVY%20BLUE-4ebf3362-.jpeg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 24 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.golfkids.co.il/media/catalog/product/2/9/29a01jblk_2.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 25 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.sweatybetty.com/ (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 26 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/ca/38/c0/ca38c0a4305d1a5b2a11b519323033ad. png (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 27 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.schwarzkopf-professional.nl/content/dam/skp/com/en/trends/el-2-2016/athleisure/ catwalk-pau/03_SKP_HIB_EL_2_2016_Athleisure_Catwalk_Pau_460x488.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 28 – [Online]. Available at: http://demandware.edgesuite.net/sits_pod14-adidas/dw/image/v2/aagl_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-adidas-products/default/dw038a17a9/zoom/AY8132_21_model.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 29 – [Online]. Available at: http://sweatshirtsanddresses.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/bralette-trend-zara-fashion-blogdubai-street-style-prada-fendi-1.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 30 – [Online]. Available at: https://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/topshop/04E03LPGY-Pale%20Grey-e68ff0db-.jpeg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 31 – [Online]. Available at: https://www.riverisland.com/women/tops/crop-tops--bralets/petite-black-embroidered-floral-bralet-700908 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

69

Fig 32 – [Online]. Available at: https://cdn1.blovcdn.com/bloglovin/aHR0cCUzQSUyRiUyRmNkbi5kZXZpbHdlYXJzemFyYS52b2d1ZS5lcyUyRndwLWNvbnRlbnQlMkZ1cGxvYWRzJTJGMjAxNiUyRjA2JTJGc3MxNi1icmEtb3Zlci10b3Atc3RyZWV0LTQuanBn?checksum=6f9b9ccb3cb369d2aeaac6671938cc6bea84b587&format=j (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 33 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.thedollsfactory.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Fashion-Trend-bralette-giambattista-valli-spring-summer-2017.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 34 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/6a/5c/3c/6a5c3cce60e0af6489ed77f70b2d4108. jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 35 - [Online]. Available at: http://fchannel.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/40.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 36 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f5/5c/7f/f55c7f4c0f609728e8e2d959a841b529.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 37 – [Online]. Available at: http://cdn1-www.thefashionspot.com/assets/uploads/gallery/white-tee-lingerie-tank/zara.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 38 – [Online]. Available at: https://www.victoriassecret.com/bralettes/all-bralettes (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 39 – [Online]. Available at: http://completefashion.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/bra-over-topjpg.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 40 – [Online]. Available at: https://cdn.okmag.de/s/article_main/public/media/gallery/2017/03/28/na-kd-fashion-zara-instagram.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 41 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.houseofelegancefashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Back-with-bralettes. jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 42 – [Online]. Available at: https://euimages.urbanoutfitters.com/is/image/UrbanOutfittersEU/5747314441718_001_b?h ei=2175 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 43 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4e/08/01/4e08012161e41b2069f15bb683648cd0.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 44 - [Online]. Available at: https://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/zN8-zVgSpnaFGQWlsdWV8Gna6K8=/1600x0/cdn0. vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6355367/12960155_218896755147278_766363441_n.0.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 45 – [Online]. Available at: file:///D:/Buyers_Briefing_S_S_18_Womenswear_Colour_.pdf (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 46 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.misspap.co.uk/red-dresses/ (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 47 – [Online]. Available at: http://media.topshop.com/wcsstore/TopShop/images/catalog/TS10N28KMAG_Zoom_M_1. jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 48 – [Online]. Available at: http://cdn.mamamia.com.au/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/15185942/emma-stone-lllwardrobe.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 49 – [Online]. Available at: https://68.media.tumblr.com/7765b14dd913a6f4ca49948bb287e8e1/tumblr_inline_onkw52u4uK1sskr1p_500.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 50 – [Online]. Available at: http://assets.vogue.com/photos/57e3deb3c565257250f5a83a/master/pass/_MON0008.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 51 – [Online]. Available at: https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mlO_q8ybqg8/WPTKOaeyx4I/AAAAAAAAR0k/j4r7TSJ5D_k-V40AuMn1gUJeUpQy8FECwCLcB/s1600/4437085600_2_1_1.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 52 – [Online]. Available at: http://sev.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/07/54d8841d387e3_-_sev-prom-dresses-yellow-de.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017) Fig 53 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2017-trends/slide2 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 54 – [Online]. Available at: https://www.zara.com/uk/en/search (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 55 – [Online]. Available at: http://i1.mirror.co.uk/incoming/article9896610.ece/ALTERNATES/s615b/Joseph-show-Runway-Autumn-Winter-2017-London-Fashion-Week-UK-20-Feb-2017.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 56 – [Online]. Available at: https://cdnc.lystit.com/photos/missguided/346581-black-f14c00c8-.jpeg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 57 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/98/8e/6d/988e6dce4ccd2d7db95f72ca77e1c0a5.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 58 – [Online]. Available at: https://images.asos-media.com/inv/media/1/9/3/4/8064391/yellow/image1xxl.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 59 – [Online]. Available at: https://pmcfootwearnews.files.wordpress.com/2017/02/roksanda_8413191aa.jpg?w=350 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 60 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.robandmariel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/8e4974d7e37c702369fc6800df916297-650x1005.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 61 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/fashion-trend-spring-summer-2017-brightcolour-gucci-balenciaga-topshop-a7669141.html (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 62 – [Online]. Available at: file:///D:/Fashion_Week_Streets_A_W_17_18_Cut_&_Sew.pdf (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 63 – [Online]. Available at: http://static.dnaindia.com/sites/default/files/2017/03/15/556843-am-pm.jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017). (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 64 – [Online]. Available at: https://static.independent.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/image/2017/03/08/17/sacai-ss17-slogan.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 65 – [Online]. Available at: http://vintagegal.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/make-more-noise.jpg?x31698 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

70

Fig 66 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/ed/2d/8f/ed2d8f71a0d67df7c4e18935501f82be.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 67 – [Online]. Available at: http://dazedimg.dazedgroup.netdna-cdn.com/640/azure/dazed-prod/1110/7/1117368. jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 68 - [Online]. Available at: http://images.fashionmodeldirectory.com/images/designers/katharine-hamnett_925-profile.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 69 - [Online]. Available at: https://static.independent.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/ image/2017/03/08/17/hoh-ss17-slogan.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 70 – [Online]. Available at: https://athousandflowersblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/carolinelucasp3.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 71 - [Online]. Available at: https://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/d0a5-2015/11/13/missguided-black-squad-goals-slogan-bodysuit-black-product-3-222036906-normal.jpeg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 72 – [Online]. Available at: http://assets.vogue.com/photos/58919c6c8c64075803ad1673/master/pass/04-Dior2. jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017).

Fig 73 - [Online]. Available at: https://www.think-feel-discover.com/images/Fashion_1.png (Accessed: 27 May 2017) Fig 74 – [Online]. Available at: http://cdn.glamour.mx/uploads/images/thumbs/mx/glam/2/s/2017/08/t_shirt_politicas_en_la_semana_de_la_moda_733553725_1196x1800.jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017) Fig 75 – (own photo) Fig 76 – [Online]. Available at: http://elleuk.cdnds.net/16/37/480x528/gallery-1474044218-screen-shot-2016-09-16at-54242-pm.jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017) Fig 77 - [Online]. Available at: https://static.independent.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/ image/2017/03/08/17/hoh-ss17-slogan.jpg (Ac-cessed: 27 May 2017) Fig 78 - [Online]. Available at: : http://harpersbazaaruk.cdnds.net/17/01/768x1152/gallery-1483629776-kendall-jenner-dior-tshirt.jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017) Fig 79 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/sites/default/files/styles/ful_scr_img/public/images/2017/03/30/rihanna-tee.png?itok=G_3r733j (Accessed: 22 May 2017) Fig 80 – [Online]. Available at: http://blog.wuggle.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Beyonce-T-Shirt-Jay-Z-T-Shirt. jpg (Accessed: 22 May 2017) Fig 81 - [Online]. Available at: http://nerdfashion.nl/img/cms/Social_Media_Icons.png (Accessed: 22 May 2017) Fig 82 - [Online]. Available at: http://shopholicx.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Tommy-Hilfiger-Chatty-TeeWith-Denims.jpg (Accessed: 25 May 2017) Fig 83 - [Online]. Available at: http://elleuk.cdnds.net/17/07/768x1150/gallery-1487080597-gettyimages-635211156. jpg (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 84 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/a9/85/d2/a985d2307767b952f7dec6fe2d633007.jpg (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 85 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/fc/d5/1b/fcd51b378418368e929913af62e7a5c7.jpg (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 86 – [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 87 – [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/7b/9d/7f/7b9d7ff703e3bd50b1f49489b7d69a47.jpg (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 88 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 89 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 90 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/slogan-tees-trend-paris-fashion-week-spring-2017 (Accessed: 28 May 2017) Fig 91 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 92 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 93 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 28 April 2017).

Fig 94 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 95 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 96 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 14 May 2017).

71

Fig 97 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 98 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 14 May 2017).

Fig 99 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 26 April 2017).

Fig 100 - [Online]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/a7/ed/d2/a7edd2e2636e8538865042e65492addc.jpg (Accessed: 27 May 2017).

Fig 101 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 14 May 2017).

Fig 102 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 17 May 2017).

Fig 103 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 104 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 105 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 106 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 17 May 2017).

Fig 107 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 17 May 2017).

Fig 108 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 109 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 110 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 11 May 2017).

Fig 111 - [Online]. Available at: https://blogs-images.forbes.com/karenhua/files/2017/02/GettyImages-635211200-e1487710537224.jpg?width=960 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 112 - [Online]. Available at: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/evokeuploads/2014/09/Chanel-1.jpg (Accessed: 18 May 2017).

Fig 113 - [Online]. Available at: Available at: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/evokeuploads/2014/09/Chanel-1. jpg (Accessed: 18 May 2017).

Fig 114 - [Online]. Available at: Available at: http://dazedimg.dazedgroup.netdna-cdn.com/640/azure/dazedprod/1110/7/1117368.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 115 - [Online]. Available at: https://blogs-images.forbes.com/karenhua/files/2017/02/GettyImages-635211200-e1487710537224.jpg?width=960 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 116 - [Online]. Available at: http://vloggist.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/feminist.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 117 - [Online]. Available at: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/09/30/1412091058525_wps_15_Cara_Delevingne_ with_mega.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 118 - [Online]. Available at: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Tabley_Hall_4.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 119 - [Online]. Available at: https://katehavetolove.files.wordpress.com/2017/02/img_9773.jpg?w=1298&h=945 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 120 - [Online]. Available at: https://img1.etsystatic.com/157/1/10519821/il_570xN.1127708673_seqg.jpg (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 121 - [Online]. Available at: https://elcuencodebaubo.files.wordpress.com/2015/12/el-voto-para-las-mujeres. jpg?w=820 (Accessed: 23 May 2017).

Fig 122 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 123 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 14 May 2017).

Fig 124 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 125 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 126 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 14 May 2017).

Fig 127 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 128 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 129 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 130 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 131 - [Online]. Available at: http://www.bet.com/news/fashion-and-beauty/2015/06/25/teen-vogue-dragged-overbeauty-feature-on-senegalese-twists/_jcr_content/image.heroimage.dimg/__1435265452018/062515-b-real-stylebeauty-teen-vogue-logo.jpg (Accessed: 29 May 2017).

Fir 132 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 133 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 134 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 135 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 136 - [Offline] Livesey, A. Own photo (Taken: 19 May 2017).

Fig 137 - [Online]. Available at: https://www.think-feel-discover.com/images/Fashion_1.png (Accessed: 27 May 2017).

72