Brazil I gave up heels for
Adventures of a pixie warrior across South America ( part I )
by Amy Rollo
Bye Bye Heels,
A pair of lusciously pink, strappy, size five heels sit on a high-
NOT BEING of those who carry their life on their back. For
end boutique shelf in Ipanema, Rio De Janeiro. They do not
BEING of the high maintained crowd, the urban jungle rat. For
belong to me. These exquisite works of art would have humbled
BEING comfortable in plush accommodations, sheltered by
Salvatore Ferragamo. Wanting them so badly as my own, a
walls separating myself from cultures unknown.
birthday gift to myself in my 25th year, it took a different set of straps to walk away. But alas, I have joined the ranks of those in the nomadic know. The best way to see a country is a twenty hour bus ride. The Instead, I bought a pink backpack and a plane ticket from Rio to Buenos Aires, Argentina.
From there, I boated, bussed,
Jeeped, and trekked through Argentina and on to Uruguay, Chile, Bolivia, and Peru -- an epic, life-changing shlep along
Hello Backpack
pieces of The Gringo Trail, meeting curious backpackers and (mostly) welcoming locals along the way. Living in noisy hostels,
best way to experience its cuisine is picking that hut, zero English words within earshot. My everyday life became finding a common denominator with the person across from me, whose English was as limited as my Spanglish, working together for the simplest of pleasures, a shared smile to acknowledge an open drawer of understanding.
translating language and currency, and dodging traveler’s diarrhea became my new normal, completely opposite of my monotonous train commute to and from my swanky Soho office, with days more often than not ending in $14 cocktails, numbing the stresses of the rodent race.
Those heels I left in Brazil may have clicked through a few good parties in my possession, but the Haviana flip flops (“thongs” to you Aussies I love so dearly) that got me through six South American countries and a wealth of waist-deep life-altering
I had traveled before, but never so light nor so improvisational. And never on my own. Not like this. In fact - and I’m slightly
moments have many more meaningful tales to tell around the campfire.
ashamed to admit - I used to have a weird sense of pride for
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to New York
Brazil
Vila Velha
Paraty Rio de Janeiro Ilha Grande
by land
by air
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Rio de Janeiro My time in the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) was spent disconnecting from technology.
Gadgets have no
place when indulging in sun and surf. Camera, iPhone, and laptop use were kept to a minimum. However, it is difficult for cheetah to become sloth, and so of course I came away with a few shots of the city that left a sandy footprint in my heart. No doubt one of my favorite places on this expansive planet of ours.
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Jardim Botânico is Wonderland Like
many
locations
within
Rio,
wandering around the lovely gardens of Jardim Botanico made me forget that I was, in fact, in a city of over 6 million.
The most notable points: A) Incredible upkeep, unlike the Brooklyn Botanical Garden (apologies Brooklynites, but it’s true). B) Falling down this rabbit hole was only a half hour stroll through Zona Sul, unlike the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland which are about an hour shlep from Amsterdam.
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Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) and Why I Loathe Tourist Traps I have issues with tourist attractions. I despise the Disney Worldesque lines. My eyes bleed at the fashion-challenged crowds decked out in mid-calf socks and running sneakers, Hawaiian-print shirts, and cameras hanging around their necks, waiting their turn to get the generic “look-at-me-I-have-proofI-was-here-at-this-place-so-far-away” photo only to speed off to the next destination and repeat the dreaded cycle. Children screaming. Bottles of water costing five bucks.
Noise and
confusion. Not for me. However,
tourist
attractions
draw
crowds for a reason — there’s usually something pretty damn cool to see. So there are times when I suck it up, brave the terribly dressed crowds, and hang my camera around my neck.
Açúcar
happened to be one of those times. 14
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SAARA Rio The largest street market in the city, located in the Centro neighborhood. The market goods change with the holidays. My best purchases were a pink wig (at a fraction of the price they cost at Ricky’s NYC) and several glittery masks for Carnaval.
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Confeitaria Colombo Bar Jardim in Downtown Rio is over 100 years old and listed as a historic site by the National Heritage Council (pictured above). The image on the opposite page was taken at their CafĂŠ do Forte location, which overlooks Copacabana Beach.
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Alô? Alô? Oiiiiiiiiiiii!
Although all Cariocas* have mobile phones, there are plenty of instances when using a public pay phone is preferable. The two most common: 1. you are in a busy public place and don’t want your expensive iPhone snatched out of your hand or 2. you’re out of prepaid credit.
*A Carioca is a person from Rio.
There is a
hilarious book called How to Be a Carioca: the Alternative Guide for the Tourist in Rio that became
my bible for navigating this outrageous city. For instructions on using the orelhão (“giant ears” pictured right), see How to Be a Carioca, Lesson 20
15.
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Humaitá The neighborhood I lived in with my friend Thabata’s avó (grandmother) for about a month, known for its Pólo Gastronômico (Gastronomy Precinct). Check out Cristo Redentor at the top of mountain overlooking the city, making sure everyone is behaving themselves.
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Graffiti do Rio I would be negligent not to mention the
Many walls are privately owned and the
copious amounts of graffiti covering
proprietors not only allow and tolerate
structures from drinking fountains to
street art, but commission murals to
highway overpasses in this city whose
brighten up what would otherwise be a
population is almost twice the size of Los
very gray urban jungle. This particular
Angeles, California.
image was taken on an iPhone in the lovely Santa Teresa neighborhood.
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New Year’s Eve on Copacabana Beach Ever since spending New Year’s Eve on the white sand of the Dominican Republic a few years before, I’ve had this theory that the beach is the best place to ring in the New Year. I now believe New Year’s Eve should be celebrated on the beaches of Rio with a million of your new best friends.
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The Farm On Christmas day, I left the urban comfort of Rio to spend a few days on Thabata’s farm, a couple hours outside the city. Now you have to understand: I’m originally from Northern NY (note: not the city) where sprawl commercial dairy farms abound, and the cow population outnumbers the people. I didn’t really grasp that farms such as this, not for profit, just to live off the land, existed. I thought it was a rural myth. But alas, here it is. Cows and all.
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It doesn’t get fresher than this Bananas off the vine and limes for the taking. Also prevalent are jaca (jack fruit), oranage, lemon, and cherry trees.
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This little piggy... There was one little runt whom Thabata explained would probably die, because he wouldn’t be able to fight his way to food. Darwinism at its cutest. Chickens, peacocks, and horses were also spotted hanging out on the farm.
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Ilha Grande After one day of rest on January 1st, six French, two Brazilians, a Belgian, and an American all set off to an island that has made its way into my top three most beautiful places on the planet. I couldn’t begin to explain the confusion caused by such a cornucopia of native languages traveling as one, so instead I’ll just let you in on the secret to true relaxation and remembrance of what life is all about: go here. When I left Rio for the island, I was carrying a few years worth of tension and stress, my shoulders both fighting for my neck’s attention. My creative energies were at an all time low and inspiration was nowhere to be found. It didn’t help that my friends who planned the trip made it clear we were going to be spending the week living in tents. Yes, I am from the country, but having experienced far too many uncomfortable camping trips, busting my back trying to sleep on roots, somehow unwater-proofing waterproof tents, and fighting off campsite bear invasions is enough to
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be put off of it permanently* (at least in my case – I’m sure some of you live for that kind of shit). In spite of that, I was determined to go see this lovely island that I had heard so much about. On day one we arrived at Palmas, which I immediately dubbed Hippy Beach, for its assemblage of tanned kids getting their hair pulled back into dreadlocks whilst chillin’ under the great, big Sun. The following day was spent on a private boat exploring some seriously cool waters and beaches before leaving us at Abraão for the remainder of the week.
Entering Paradise If the heading doesn’t say it, the picture sure does.
*Never say never.
I am a fair weather
We docked here for the night at Palmas.
camper, but summer sees me sleeping under stars.
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As my dear friend and travel buddy, Thabata, says, “When in hell, hug the devil.” And that we did.
The above ordeal may not seem like much to some of you, but I slept in a tent for a whole week and DIDN’T COMPLAIN ONCE. I learned that I don’t need to wear eyeliner on a daily basis. That the best life you can live is when you live in your bikini. Most importantly, I got back that joie de vivre* that had gotten lost in the stress of the I was exhausted, sunburned, and waterlogged by
offered me water, but beer or caipirihnas if alcohol
the time we reached the Holandes International
would be of more help. She proved to be one
Hostel. All the above must have been extremely
awesome chick and that hostel will definitely see
obvious, because the girl at check-in not only
my face again.
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last few years.
*Joys of life, duh! 41
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Holandes International Hostel Where I remembered that camping is good for the soul.
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Espirito Santo The state just north of Rio. My time here was mostly spent drinking chopps (draft beer) on the beach and traipsing through dirt roads in the countryside, seaching for waterfalls, with a pitstop at a whitewashed convent.
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Convento da Penha An interior wall of the convent. Built with spilled slave blood, the history of its origins was sparse, other than that which we could deduce from a few paintings hung in the main hallway.
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Convent Exterior Quite lovely, with killer view to boot.
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The Other Side of the Bridge Driving from the mainland city of Vit贸ria into the charming beach town of Vila Velha.
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Paraty Ahhhhh Paraty. A little piece of paradise. And home of the best cachaça* makers in the world. This side trip from Rio is a must, if you ever happen to stumble outside the crime-ridden metropolis. A four hour bus rides leaves you in a quiet, safe, and beautiful colonial town characterized by white-washed buildings and tropical fruit colored doors. I had the pleasure of making friends with several of the cachaça vendors, resulting in many a taste test. A terrible cough (probably a respiratory infection) had them beckoning me into their shops, under the presumption that their goods were the cure to my ailment. Gabriela - a mix of cachaça, honey, clove, and cinnamon - was most memorable. Obrigada, Hernando de Argentina. Take care, though, when stepping out of the stores and onto the rocky pathways, that are difficult enough to navigate menos mais cachaça.
*A liquor made from fermented sugarcane juice. Brasil’s answer to tequila and the main ingredient in a caipirinha. Drink with caution.
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Caipirinha de Maracujá Or a “passion fruit caipirinha” em Inglês.
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Casa do Rio While I was in town, this cozy hostel was pretty empty. See that salmon colored second story on the opposite page with the terrace facing the canal? That was the room I enjoyed all to myself.
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Appendix
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1 Travel Independent http://www.travelindependent.info/ Hands down *the* most useful resource I found for long term budget travel. You’re welcome.
Most Useful Resources
2 Hosteling International http://www.hihostels.com/ Membership is about US $15 and good for a year. It will get you discounts on more than just hostels. Worth it.
3 Lonely Planet: South America on a Shoestring http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ I made the mistake of using Fodor’s which is the guidebook for rich people. Learn from my mistake. Lonely Planet is *the* guidebook to bring along.
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Travel
private cabins. Fantastic family-
How to Be a Carioca by
Yes, it is situated in the world’s
run hostel with a neverending
Priscilla Ann Goslin
largest urban forest. Go. Eat.
supply of beer and cocktails.
La Cucaracha!
Hilarious account on how to
Be merry.
you go as the bureaucracy of the
http://www.cucaracha.com.br/
get by as a tourist in Rio. My
Brazilian government is easier to
My
bible while living in the Cidade
deal with while still in the USA.
owns this Ipanema shop full
lovely Rio-based chain.
Visa Info Americans require a visa that
Brazil
costs US $130.
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Read
they serve delicious brunch.
a bag full of threads from this
Get it before
Transportal Bus http://www.transportal.com.br/ Clean, comfy, lots of routes to places you want to visit. I took one of these bad boys to Paraty.
Ci Travel Agency http://www.cibrazil.travel/ Book work, study, and adventure experiences with these guys. They speak English and are extremely patient in helping you find a good deal.
of
good sweet
friend, art,
Mattias,
independent
magazines, designer tees, and
Rio for Partiers
420 paraphernalia. Tell him ‘um
This book has a wealth of
beijo’ for me.
useful information not only for partying, but also how to make
a way more awesome selection
Farm
and they are much cheaper to
http://www.farmrio.com.br/
purchase at the source. Stock
Beachy urban bohemian fashion
up.
See page 69 as to why you
Lapa.
should stay here.
Drink
for purchase by the bottle in
every weekend. Then I partied
cachaça shops, this concoction
at Salgueiro until 5am during one
of cinnamon, honey, and clove
Confeitaria Colombo
of the rehearsals for Carnaval.
is a delight to the palate.
http://www.confeitariacolombo.
Do this. It is an experience like
com.br
no other.
awesome.
Shop
nightlife happy neighborhood of
a school that parties until 5am
good selection of English titles
the world. However, Brasil has
http://www.paratyhostel.com/
restaurants,
sweet discounts for all things
Rio de Janeiro
Incredible music venue in the
I could not wrap my head around
My fave bookstore in Rio with a
Yes, you can buy these rubber
Casa do Rio
Served at Casa do Rio, in various
It’s updated every year and has
http://us.havaianas.com/
http://www.circovoador.com.br/
http://www.salgueiro.com.br/
http://www.travessa.com.br/
Havaianas
Sleep
Cachaça Gabriela
the most out of your stay in Rio.
and a cafe on the second floor.
Circo Voador
Samba School Salgueiro
Livraria da Travessa
flip flops almost anywhere in
at its finest. I came home with
Maravilhosa.
Dance
Paraty
Eat
Brunch spots are rare in Brazil, but Confeitaria Colombo does it
Ilha Grande
right.
Sleep
and
available
Holandes Hostel - Abraão Café du Lage
http://www.holandeshostel.
Yes, Snoop Dogg filmed the
com.br/
music video Beautiful here. Yes,
Take your pick of tents, dorms, or
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Photography + Layout Design : Amy Rollo WWW AMYROLLO COM s AMY AMYROLLO COM
All rights reserved. All images and text in this book are Copyright Š Amy Rollo 2013. This book may be freely copied and distributed as is, and must remain unmodified, including this copyright message. No unauthorised modifications, may be made. No extracts may be taken except short examples for the purpose of review. This work may not be reproduced in any other format. No commercial gain may be made from the distribution of display of this work. Written permission from the author is required for any use of this work other than that allowed above.
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