Upper Town Zagreb Gornji grad 2013 by 528491

SOUV SO UVEN UV E IR BOOKMARK EN BOO OO OKM K AR RK GIFT! GIFT GI FT!! SOUVENIR Poklon oznaka za knjigu!

Introduction

o get to know a city, you need to take in at least the tiniest amount of its history, to experience the charm of its old-fashioned façades, to walk along its stone pavements, climb its towers, listen to the bells peal in its high steeples. To understand the people you have come to visit, it’s

well worth your while to step back in time, at least for a moment, to the days of knightly heroes and romance. There are very few places where the present and the past coexist as harmoniously as in Gornji grad – Zagreb’s Upper Town. And there is probably no other place where you can reach back to past times so quickly and so easily. One minute you are tramping the streets of a modern city centre with its modern blue trams whizzing past you, and in the blink of an eye, as soon as you set foot on Mesnička Street’s cobblestones, you are transported into a fairytale. A fairytale made up of a thousand alluring stories. You can launch yourself so easily, for example, into the time of the Anjous, the golden age of Zagreb’s lay settlement Gradec, the time when in the 14th century Duke Stjepan of Anjou ruled, with his

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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SOUV SO UVEN UV E IR BOOKMARK EN BOO OO OKM K AR RK GIFT! GIFT GI FT!! SOUVENIR Poklon oznaka za knjigu!

Introduction

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ovitak s klapnom - verzija 2 2013 KS.indd 2

10.4.2014. 15:11:43

SOUV SO UVEN UV E IR BOOKMARK EN BOO OO OKM K AR RK GIFT! GIFT GI FT!! SOUVENIR Poklon oznaka za knjigu!

Introduction

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

ovitak s klapnom - verzija 2 2013 KS.indd 2

10.4.2014. 15:11:43

Impressum

Publisher | Izdavač: Zagreb Tourist Board | Turistička zajednica grada Zagreba Kaptol 5 | 10 000 Zagreb tel.: 00385 1 4898 555 | fax: 00385 1 4814 340 info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr | info@zagreb-convention.hr www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr For the Publisher | Za izdavača: PhD Amelia Tomašević Editor | Urednik: Višnja Arambašić Assistants | Suradnici: Marlisa Fašaić, Ana Salopek, Davor Guvo, Ivana Mahnić Production | Produkcija: Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Text | Tekst: Višnja Arambašić, Nataly Anderson Design & Layout | Oblikovanje i prijelom: Gordan Karabogdan Proofreading | Lektura: Ivana Brković, Nataly Anderson Map illustrations | Ilustracije karata: Stef d.o.o. Map copyright | Autorska prava za karte: Stef d.o.o., Zagreb Tourist Board Printing | Tisak: Grafing, Zagreb, 2013. Print run | Naklada: 5.000

Contents | Sadržaj

Old Zagreb Words fašnik fest frtalj furt gablec gelender gemišt grincajg haustor kefa lajbek plac puca purger šnicl špancir štenge šuster taubek viršle vura

(carnival) (a lot) (a quarter) (always) (brunch) (handrail) (white wine & mineral water) (soup vegetables) (house entrance) (brush) (vest) (market, square) (a girl) (a person from Zagreb) (steak) (a walk) (stairs) (shoe-maker) (pigeon) (frankfurter) (clock)

ovitak s klapnom - verzija 2 2013 KS.indd 3

Introduction Uvod

Highlights Znamenitosti Tour Onee Ruta 1

Museums, Galleries & Recommended comm mmend e en end Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledii

Tour Two woo Ruta 2

Museums, um ms Gal G Gall Galleries a le & Recommended eccomm om end en nd Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi dii

hree ee Tour Three Ruta 3

Museums, eum umss Gal G Galle Galleries lle & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi

34 48

E Events Događanja D Index Popis

Photography | Fotografije: THE MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ pages stranice 25 (top gore), 44 (bottom dolje) • THE KLOVIĆEVI DVORI GALLERY GALERIJA KLOVIĆEVI DVORI pages stranice 27, 32 (bottom dolje), 44 (top middle gore sredina), 45 • THE MIJO KOVAČIĆ GALLERY GALERIJA MIJO KOVAČIĆ page stranica 25 (middle sredina) • CROATIAN ASSOCIATION OF ARTISTS HDLU page stranica 37 (top gore) • THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAÏVE ART HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI pages stranice 24 (top gore), 43 (bottom dolje) • THE CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM HRVATSKI PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ pages stranice 16 (middle and bottom sredina i dolje), 23 (top gore) • ZAGREB CONCERT MANAGEMENT KONCERTNA DIREKCIJA ZAGREB page stranica 40 (bottom dolje) • INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL MEĐUNARODNA SMOTRA FOLKLORA page stranica 39 • MEMORIAL APARTMENT OF M. J. ZAGORKA MEMORIJALNI STAN M. J. ZAGORKE page stranica 14 (left lijevo) • THE MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ZAGREB MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA pages stranice 17 (top gore), 30 (middle left sredina lijevo), 33 (top gore), 41 (top left gore lijevo) • THE MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA page stranica 15 (top gore) • SAMOBOR JAZZ FESTIVAL page stranica 38 (left lijevo) • AMADEO STAGE SCENA AMADEO page stranica 44 (top left and top right gore lijevo i gore desno) • ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD TURISTIČKA ZAJEDNICA GRADA ZAGREBA (archives arhiv) pages stranice 1 (top gore), 2 (middle and bottom sredina i dolje), 6 (top and middle gore i sredina), 8 (bottom dolje), 17 (bottom dolje), 21 (bottom dolje), 23 (bottom dolje), 25 (bottom dolje), 26 (middle sredina),30 (middle right sredina desno), 34 (bottom right dolje desno), 35 (bottom and top dolje i gore), 40 (top gore), 41 (bottom dolje), 44 (bottom dolje), 46 • ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD TURISTIČKA ZAJEDNICA ZAGREBAČKE ŽUPANIJE (archives arhiv) pages stranice 3 (top gore), 31 (bottom dolje) • ŠIBENIK TOURIST ASSOCIATION TURISTIČKA ZAJEDNICA GRADA ŠIBENIKA page stranica 38 (right desno) • LEKSIKOGRAFSKI ZAVOD MIROSLAV KRLEŽA (web pages internet stranice) page stranica 22 (right desno) • ZDENAC ŽIVOTA page stranica 47 • THE ZAGREB OBSERVATORY ZVJEZDARNICA ZAGREB (web pages internet stranice) stranica 29 (bottom right dolje desno) • Višnja ARAMBAŠIĆ page stranica 20 (bottom dolje) • Ivan BUŠIĆ page stranica 29 (bottom left dolje lijevo) • Josip BEPO BOTA pages stranice 4 (bottom dolje), 33 (bottom dolje) • Matko BILJAK (HPM) page stranica 43 (top gore) • Roberta F. (commons.wikimedia.org) page stranica 26 (top gore) • Hrvoje GOLUBIĆ pages stranice 1 (bottom dolje), 2 (top gore), 3 (bottom dolje), 10 (top gore), 12 (left lijevo), 19 (top gore), 35 (bottom right and bottom left dolje desno i dolje lijevo) • Miljenko GREGL (MGZ) page stranica 41 (top right gore desno) • Gordan KARABOGDAN pages stranice 3 (middle sredina), 9 (top gore), 19 (bottom dolje), 20 (middle sredina), 22 (left and bottom lijevo i dolje), 28 (bottom dolje), 29 (middle sredina), 30 (bottom dolje), 33 (middle sredina) • Patrik MAČEK page stranica 7 • Tomislav RASTIĆ pages stranice 11 (middle sredina), 20 (top gore) • Goran VRANIĆ page stranica 10 (bottom dolje) • Ivan VINKOVIĆ pages stranice 4 (bottom dolje), 13 (top gore) • Marko VRDOLJAK pages stranice 1 (middle sredina), 5 (top and bottom gore i dolje), 6 (bottom dolje), 8 (top gore), 9 (bottom dolje), 11 (top and bottom gore i dolje), 12 (right desno), 13 (bottom dolje), 14 (right desno), 16 (top left gore lijevo), 17 (middle sredina), 18, 21 (top gore), 24 (middle and bottom sredina i dolje), 26 (bottom dolje), 28 (top and middle gore i sredina), 29 (top gore), 30 (top gore), 31 (top gore), 32 (top gore), 34 (right desno), 42 (top gore) • Cover Photos, outer side | Fotografije na ovitku, vanjska strana: ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD ARCHIVES ARHIVA TZGZ: The Zagreb Time Machine Zagrebački vremeplov (Dora Krupićeva), the Funicular uspinjača, The Meštrović Atelier Atelijer Meštrović • Hrvoje GOLUBIĆ: The Zagreb Time Machine Zagrebački vremeplov (the knights in front of St Katherine’s Church vitezovi ispred crkve sv. Katarine, the couple in front of St Mark’s church par ispred crkve sv. Marka) • UNEX: The Changing of the Guard Smjena straže • STEF d.o.o.: map of the Upper Town mapa Gornjeg grada • Cover Photos, inner side | Fotografije na ovitku, unutarnja strana: ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD ARCHIVES ARHIVA TZGZ: The Zagreb Time Machine Zagrebački vremeplov (the couple in front of the Lotrščak Tower par ispred Kule Lotrščak) • Marko VRDOLJAK: Klovićevi dvori Gallery Galerija Klovićevi dvori, the Funicular uspinjača • Gordan KARABOGDAN: Habdelićeva Street inscription natpis ulice u Habdelićevoj • Hrvoje GOLUBIĆ: The Zagreb Time Machine Zagrebački vremeplov (the knights in front of St Mark’s church • ZAGREB CONCERT MANAGEMENT KONCERTNA DIREKCIJA ZAGREB: Lidija Horvat • INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL MEĐUNARODNA SMOTRA FOLKLORA: performance at Gradec izvedba na Gradecu No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form. The publisher has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assumes no responsibility for changes and errors. | Niti jedan dio ove publikacije nije dozvoljen za reproduciranje u bilo kojem obliku. Izdavač je uložio najveći mogući napor kako bi se osigurala točnost informacija u vrijeme odlaska u tisak, te nije odgovoran za bilo kakve promjene ili pogreške u programu.

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Gornji grad’s streets take you Po back to the past to the tune of oldtime love songs from the days of the Street Musicians – the society made up of Zagreb’s Cinkuši and the Potepuh quartet. And while they play, perhaps the postman will drop by, blowing into his horn as in the days of old, or you’ll bump into the city sentinel, who stood guard over the citizens’ safety – and morals – at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. Some would say we could do with someone like that today. Maybe you’ll notice the coal porter rush by, as quick as a flash, if he doesn’t stop to whisper you a little local gossip, something you’d never find in the newspapers! In any case, it’s well worth keeping your eyes wide open so that you don’t miss the

Zagreb Time Machine | Zagrebački vremeplov

Dora & Pavle

Brosura Gornji grad 2013 KS.indd Sec1:1

oštar an | P

The Funicular | Uspinjača

The Croatian Bans ruled from Gradec from the 17th century. The first Ban to choose Gradec as his seat was Nikola Frankopan in 1621. It is therefore no surprise to learn that Gornji grad is the place where the history of Croatia’s erstwhile aristocracy was written. The first Zagreb theatre, the Croatian national anthem, Croatian as an official language, the first Croatian operas, grammar schools, universities and radio stations all have a close relationship with Gradec. And underneath Gradec, so the legend goes, there is a labyrinth of tunnels, catacombs dating back to the 18th century – if not before. The Grič tunnel, for example, built in 1943, is probably the best-known of these. Using this tunnel, you can stroll quickly from Mesnička Street to the equally cobbly Radićeva Street.

stm

wife Margareta, a Bavarian princess. And it’s even easier to get goosebumps when you stand in front of St Mark’s Church, the spot where in the 16th century Matija Gubec, the leader of the peasant’s revolt, suffered a mocking coronation with a red-hot "crown" and a brutal murder as a punishment for his fight to win fair treatment for his fellow serfs – a true revolutionary. This place will ever echo with Gubec’s prophetic last words: "The time will come when my eyes will see from heaven my free and happy Croatian nation."

sight of Dora Krupićeva and Pavle Gregorijanec walking

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Introduction | Uvod

Uvod

along Kamenita Street hand in hand. They are the lovers from "Zlatarevo zlato" ("The Goldsmith’s Gold"), the most

D Zagreb Time Machine | Zagrebački vremeplov

M. Gubec bust on St Mark's Square | Bista Matije Gupca na Markovom trgu

St a t ue o f Zag orka o n Tkalčićeva Street | Zagorkin kip

u Tka l či ć evo ju lici

popular historical novel of Old Zagreb. One never tires of hearing this tale of a great love, written by August Šenoa. However, if you’re not in the mood for romance, there’s always Marija Jurić Zagorka, who is always ready for a conversation on any other theme, such as the literature of the time, or her journalistic or feminist endeavours. She was n v one ne never ho to hold back from describing the Zagreb of her time just as it was, warts and all, and you can be sure she won’t hold back now either.

a biste upoznali neki grad, valja vam udahnuti barem dašak njegove povijesti, suočiti se s ljepotom starinskih fasada, prošetati njegovim kamenim pločnicima, popeti se u njegove kule, poslušati njegova crkvena zvona. Da biste shvatili kome ste došli u goste, treba se barem načas vratiti u prošlost, u doba junaštva, viteštva i romantike. A nigdje se u Zagrebu prošlost i sadašnjost ne prepleću tako gusto kao na Gornjem gradu. Čim s Ilice, gdje kraj vas prolazi moderni zagrebački plavi tramvaj, stupite na kockama popločanu Mesničku ulicu, uranjate u bajku. Bajku koja ima tisuću zavodljivih lica. Tako, primjerice, vrlo lako možete otputovati u 14. stoljeće, u anžuvinsko, zlatno doba zagrebačkog Gradeca, kada je u njemu stolovao herceg Stjepan Anžuvinac, vladar čija je žena Margareta bila bavarska princeza. No još je lakše osjetiti žmarce kada zastanete pred Markovom crkvom, gdje je u 16. stoljeću užarenom željeznom krunom okrunjen i okrutno pogubljen vođa Seljačke bune Matija Gubec, borac za prava obespravljenih kmetova i, mogli bismo reći, istinski revolucionar. Samo trenutak posvemašnje tišine bit će dovoljan da prizovete u sjećanje njegove riječi: "Doći će doba kad će moje oči gledati s neba na slobodan i sretan moj hrvatski puk!"

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A podno njega proteže se tunel Grič, sagrađen 1943. godine, koji vodi od Mesničke ulice do kamenim kockama popločene Radićeve. No Gradec usto krije, kažu, i čitav splet labirinta, tunela i katakombi iz 18. stoljeća, ako ne i starijih.

A. Šenoa bust on Opatička Street | Bista A. Šenoe u Opatičkoj

godine. Gornji je grad, dakle, mjesto gdje se pisala hrvatska politička povijest, no ujedno je središte zagrebačke i hrvatske kulture. Prvo zagrebačko kazalište, hrvatska himna, proglašenje hrvatskoga službenim jezikom, prve hrvatske opere, prva gimnazija i sveučilište, prva radijska postaja, sve je to vezano uz Gradec.

Gornjogradskim ulicama vode vas i vraćaju u prošle dane uz starogradske ljubavne pjesme ulični svirači – Zagrebački cinkuši i kvartet Potepuh. A dok oni sviraju, možda ugledate i poštara koji puše u rog kad nosi pisma, ili gradskog stražara s kraja

19. i početka 20. stoljeća, koji se brine za sigurnost, ali i društveni moral Zagrepčana. Reklo bi se da nam i danas takav treba!

Introduction | Uvod

Frankopans | Frankopani

Na Gradecu su od 17. stoljeća stolovali hrvatski banovi, a prvi ga je za svoje sjedište izabrao Nikola Frankopan 1621.

Tko zna, možda primijetite kako kraj vas, brz poput munje, juri kolporter, pa zastane načas, ne bi li vam prišapnuo kakvu lokalnu priču ili sočan trač koji u novinama nećete naći! U svakom slučaju, oči treba držati širom otvorene, da vam ne promakne kako Kamenitom ulicom ruku pod ruku šeću Dora Krupićeva i Pavle Gregorijanec, ljubavni par iz Zlatareva zlata, najpopularnijeg povijesnog romana o starom Zagrebu. Priču o velikoj ljubavi iz 16. stoljeća, što ju je napisao August Šenoa (1838-1881), nikada nije naodmet čuti. Zagrebačke romantične i pustolovne zgode može vam prizvati u sjećanje i Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957), a s njom možete popričati i o koječemu drugome, recimo, o zagrebačkom društvenom i kulturnom životu prve polovice 20. stoljeća, o njezinu novinarskom radu ili feminističkom angažmanu. Ona se, uostalom, nikad nije libila Zagreb svoga vremena opisivati onakvim kakav je bio, pa neće, ne brinite se, to činiti rači ni sada. svi M eet Str

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With the most splendid Gothic portal in all Croatia, carved in Parler’s workshop, one of the most famous in the Middle Ages. However, if you haven’t the faintest idea who built what, just one look at the church’s picturesque roof with its coats of arms of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia and of the City of Zagreb will answer a lot of questions about Croatia and the Croatians. Crkva s figuralno najbogatijim gotičkim portalom u Hrvatskoj, izrađenim u Parlerovoj kiparskoj radionici, jednoj od najpoznatijih u srednjem vijeku. Sam pogled pak na slikoviti krov crkve s grbovima Trojedne Kraljevine Hrvatske, Dalmacije i Slavonije te grada Zagreba priziva hrvatsku političku prošlost i tako nudi odgovore na neka od vaših pitanja o Hrvatskoj i Hrvatima.

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St Mark’s Church Crkva Sv. Marka

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St Mark’s Church | Crkva Sv. Marka

Highlights | Znamenitosti

Highlights Znamenitosti

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The Funicular | Uspinjača

The Funicular Uspinjača

Zagreb’s famous blue funicular railway! From the foot of the hill to the (rather small) summit in just 64 seconds! Friendly "drivers", cheerful passengers and a very special panorama of Zagreb! Zagrebačka, plava! Od podnožja do vrhunca za samo 64 sekunde! Čisti užitak! Ljubazni vozači, nasmijani suputnici i sasvim posebna panorama Zagreba s vrha.

Brosura Gornji grad 2013 KS.indd Sec1:4

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The Stone Gate, detail | Kamenita vrata, detalj

DONJI GRAD

The Stone Gate Kamenita vrata

Highlights | Znamenitosti

The Stone Gate | Kamenita vrata

One of the best-preserved monuments of Old Zagreb. This gate was part of Gradec’s fortifications, and the only gate that still stands today. In the passage behind the doorway is a chapel with a painting of Our Lady of Kamenita vrata – the patron saint of the City of Zagreb. The story of this painting dates back to 1731 when a terrible fire broke out in Gornji grad. The fire destroyed everything except the painting of Our Lady – only the wooden frame was burnt. The people of Zagreb hailed this as a miracle. Our Lady of Kamenita vrata watches over and protects them. This is why Kamenita vrata is still today a place of prayer and votive offerings to Our Lady. Kamenita vrata spadaju među najbolje očuvane spomenike starog Zagreba. Dio su nekadašnjeg obrambenog sustava Gradeca i jedina vrata koja su se sačuvala do danas. U prolazu je kapelica sa slikom Majke Božje od Kamenitih vrata, zaštitnice grada Zagreba. Priča o njoj seže u godinu 1731, kada je na Gornjem gradu buknuo velik požar. Usred vatre našla se i slika Bogorodice, no plamen je nije uništio – izgorio je samo drveni okvir. Zagrepčani su prepoznali čudo. Otada Majka Božja od Kamenitih vrata nad njima bdije i štiti ih. Zato su Kamenita vrata i danas mjesto molitve i zavjeta.

Brosura Gornji grad 2013 KS.indd Sec1:5

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These fellows have brought light to Gornji grad since 1863 when the city first was lit by gas lamps. There are two lamplighters who still today light andd ex an extinguish xtin t gu gui u ssh hG Gor Gornji oorrnji njjii gr nj g grad’s rad ad s stre sstreet treet tre tr et lamps. la llam aam mps. pss Pe Perhaps erh rha haps h ps tha tthat’s th h t’s ’ss wh w why hy iits ts lig ts lights ights ghts hs seem gentle, mystical sse eem sso ee og entle, ent ntle, e, so my ysti s ical st caal an and and rromantic. rom omant om an ntic. tic. ic. Zagrebački Z agrebački nažigači donose ssvjetlost svj etlost Gornjem gradu od 1863, 1 186 3, kada je upaljena prva p rva plinska svjetiljka. Dvojica D vojica nažigača i dan ddanas anas ručno pale i gase gornjogradske svjetiljke. ZZasigurno asigurno su i zbog toga gornjogradska svjetla ttako ako romantična, mistična i nježna. nje j žna žna.. he l Sv amp jet at t iljk a kohe Stone Gate d Kame nitih vrata

Stražari kod bočnih vrata crkve Sv. Marka

st, a Vojničko junaštvo i odvažnost, istodobno ponos i elegancija – sve to mjeni i još mnogo više doživite na smjeni nskim straže koja se odvija pred Banskim dvorima. Markantni, odvažni i ozbiljni vojnici, uvježbani do savršenstva, pripadnici su pukovnije hrvatske lake te konjice iz 17. stoljeća, poznate ori. po junaštvu, ali i po svojoj odori. ci Oko vrata su im živopisni rupci astala zavezani u čvor, od kojih je nastala eg kravata, modni detalj bez kojeg ernog je danas teško zamisliti modernog muškarca.

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Honour of the Cravat Regiment Smjena straže počasne satnije Kravat pukovnije Military heroism and courage meets pride and gallantry. Experience all of this and much more watching the Guard of Honour of the Cravat Regiment. Striking, courageous, solemn and dashing, drilled to perfection – all of this describes the members of the Croatian Light Cavalry of the 17th century. They are famed for their uniforms as well as their heroism. They wear striking red kercheifs knotted at the neck – the forerunner of the tie, an accessory no well-dressed man can be without.

Hodnja postroja Kamenitom ulicom

Guards at the side entrance into St Mark’s Church

Highlights | Znamenitosti

March of the ranks along Kamenita Street

The Changing of the Guard – The Guard of

31.5.2013. 19:48:03

Highlights | Znamenitosti

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The Grič Cannon Grički top

If a loud bang makes you jump out of your boots on the strike of noon, don’t be afraid: that’s the Grič cannon. Today its sound marks midday, and the people of Zagreb and their guests still set their watches by it. Once upon a time, or so the story goes, the Grič cannon fired a shot from the Lotrščak tower on the strike of midday, a shot that landed in the Turkish encampment across the River Sava, smack bang in a plate of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha. Fearing this stronghold of crack shots, the Turks quickly abandoned any thoughts of attack and abandoned their siege.

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Midday shot from the Grič Cannon

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Prepadne P ree llii vvas šštogod too ttočno očč u podne, p o ttočnije, očč ssnažan na pucanj, p u nee boj bojte jte se se, to pu puca ca Gri G ički top! Grički top! Danas se oglašava da označi podne, da Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti usklade svoje satove. Prema legendi, iz njega je s kule Lotrščak točno u podne ispaljen hitac na turski tabor koji se nalazio na drugoj strani rijeke Save – i to toliko precizno da je pogodio pijetla što ga je kuhar na pladnju nosio paši. Nakon toga Turci su odustali od opsade Zagreba i brzo se razbježali.

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Before you are won over by the beauty, dignity and charm of Gornji grad, Zagreb’s historic heart, first of all you have to conquer it! That is, you have to physically climb up there, and there are several equally valid ways of doing that.

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The Funicular | Uspinjača

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Prije nego što Gornji grad svojom ljepotom, dostojanstvom i šarmom osvoji vas, vi ćete ipak Vranic. prvo morati osvojiti njega. Morate se, naime, poljana popeti na Gornji grad, a "napasti" ga možete s 2 Strossmayerovo nekoliko strana.

The easiest way to take on the gentle gradient g is to take the Funicular Railway ! This, possibly the shortest railway in the world used as part of a public transport system, dates back to 1890. It started off as a steam engine which had, in the early days, a habit of breaking down, so the locals jokingly referred to it as "the Failway". The Failway was electrified in 1927 and has been chugging away happily ever since. The train departs every ten minutes and the journey takes a comfortable 64 seconds, just enough to whip out your camera and take your first panoramic photograph

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Tour One Ruta 1

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Tour One | Ruta 1

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of Zagreb. But even without the photography session (if your hands are too full of bags of souvenirs), the Funicular is the quickest and most elegant way to arrive in Gornji grad. The special place that this unusual mode of transports occupies in the hearts of the citizens of Zagreb can be read from the fact that it has its own nursery rhyme. It goes like this:

“

Najlakše je taj blagi uspon svladati DONJI uspinjačom ! Ta GRAD vjerojatno najkraća željeznica na svijetu namijenjena javnom gradskom prometu vozi od 1890. godine. U početku je bila na parni pogon i često se kvarila pa su je Zagrepčani duhovito i malčice podrugljivo nazvali "zapinjača". A onda je 1927. elektrificirana i – evo je, vozi dan danas! Polazi

Two ropes, two wheels Two boxes and two drivers, It climbs up and comes back, It climbs up and comes back, That’s the Funicular.

„

(And yes, before you say anything, it does sound better in Croatian!)

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Tour One | Ruta 1

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As soon as you step out of the Funicular the g you’ll y first thing see is the Lotrščak Tower , a beautiful watchtower offering a fantastic view over the city centre. There are often street musicians playing outside the tower. At first this tower was famous because of the bell which was installed in 1646. It rang every evening before the city gates were closed, and that’s why, probably because of all those for whom the bell didn’t serve as fair warning, it earned nicknames such as "the brigand’s bell", the "tinker’s toll", the "drunkard’s ding-dong" or, in the vernacular of Old

18.

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Lotrščak Tower, view from Vranicani Meadow

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svakih deset minuta, a vožnja traje ugodne 64 sekunde, upravo toliko da posegnete za svojim kamerama i fotoaparatima i snimite prvu panoramsku fotografiju Zagreba. A da i ne snimite ništa, jer su vam ruke pune vrećica sa suvenirima, uspinjačom se najbrže i najelegantnije stiže na Gornji grad! Koliko je pak ona u Zagrebu omiljena, svjedoči i dječja pjesmica, čiji stihovi kažu:

Dva konopa, dva kotača dvije kutije i dva vozača Uspinje se pa se vraća, uspinje se pa se vraća eto to je uspinjača.

„

Kula Lotrščak, pogled s Vranicanijeve poljane

NJI AD

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Trg bana Josipa Jelačića

Zagreb, the "Lotriyasha". And that’s how the tower got its name. In the 19th century, there was a coffee house and cake shop in the Lotrščak tower, and the first billiards table in Zagreb. The tower also served as a fire lookout tower with a little hut built at the top for the watchman, which the old Zagrebarians jestingly called "the chicken coop". However, a crucial day in the tower’s more recent history took place in January 1877, when the Grič cannon first fired a shot at noon. The tradition still survives today. Don’t let the cannon shot surprise or scare you!

Detail from the Lotrščak Tower

29.1

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Detalj s Kule Lotrščak

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Tour One | Ruta 1

Street Musicians at Dverce Street | Ulični svirači u ulici Dverce

njemu je bila kavana i slastičarnica te prvi biljarski stol u Zagrebu. Kula je služila i kao protupožarna promatračnica pa je u tu svrhu na njezinu vrhu sagrađen i mali toranj, koji su stari Zagrepčani u šali nazvali

"kokošinjac". Važan događaj u povijesti Lotrščaka zbio se u siječnju 1877, kada je Grički top pucnjem prvi put označio podne! Tradicija živi i danas. Ne dajte da vas u podne pucanj iz topa prepadne i iznenadi!

Church of St Katherine | Crkva Sv Katarine

Čim iskoračite iz uspinjače, prvo što ćete ugledati jest Kula Lotrščak , prekrasan vidikovac s kojeg puca prelijep pogled na Donji grad. Pred njom ćete najčešće zateći kakva uličnog svirača. Kula je prije, međutim, bila poznata po zvonu koje je postavljeno godine 1646. Zvonilo je svaku večer prije zatvaranja gradskih vrata, a nazivali su ga zvonom pustahija, pijanaca i lopova ili, na starozagrebačkom, "lotrijaša". Tako je Lotrščak i dobio ime. U 19. stoljeću u

After the Lotrščak tower it’s very possible that your y gaze g will fall upon p the Church of St Katherine . This was once a Dominican church, but the Jesuits built a new church in its place in 1620, with a monastery alongside. Zagreb’s nobility gave generously to aid in the church’s building. The church features a remarkable vaulted ceiling in the transept painted with scenes from the life of St Katherine.

Nakon Lotrščaka lako je moguće da vam pogled spontano skrene prema crkvi Sv. Katarine . Nekada je na njezinu mjestu bila dominikanska crkva, a današnju crkvu i samostan dali su sagraditi Isusovci. Radovi su počeli godine 1620, a znatan je doprinos gradnji dalo i zagrebačko plemstvo bogatim donacijama. Posebnom je čini svod crkvene lađe oslikan prizorima iz života Sv. Katarine.

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Tour One | Ruta 1 From left to right: a view of the funicular, Lotrščak Tower, Strossmayer Promenade and Grammar School | S lijeva na desno: Pogled na uspinjaču, Kulu Lotrščak, Strossmayerovo šetalište i Gornjogradsku gimnaziju

Pažnje je vrijedna i Gornjogradska gimnazija koju su davne 1607. godine osnovali Isusovci. Da u njoj i danas djeluje gimnazija svjedoči mnoštvo mladih koje puni gornjogradske kafiće, za odmora, naravno. Uz gimnaziju je i gradska palača Dverce, nekoć VraniczanyBuratti. U njoj zagrebački gradski poglavari rado ugošćuju delegacije iz cijelog svijeta, gradova prijatelja, pa Štru k li ih, između ostalog, znaju počastiti i štruklama, tradicionalnim zagrebačkim jelom.

View on the Grammar School from Gradec

Also worth a look is the Gornji grad Grammar School . It was founded by the Jesuits back in 1607, and the young people who fill Gornji grad’s cafés (only at break time, naturally) testify to the fact that the building still serves as a school today. Next to the grammar school is the Dverce Palace, at that time the Vraniczany-Buratti Palace. In this building the city authorities host delegations from around the world, from twin towns and cities, plying them with, among other things, the traditional Zagreb dish "štrukli".

Pogled na Gornjogradsku gimnaziju s Gradeca

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Tour One | Ruta 1

St Mark's Square, Zagreb Time Machine | Markov trg, Zagrebački vremeplov

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The search for the monumental and historically significant buildings of Gornjij grad g leads us inexorably to St Mark’s Square , where you’ll find Parliament and the seat of the Government. Gornji grad is the centre of political life in Croatia. The legislative and executive bodies sit here, from the elected Members of Parliament to the Prime Minister. It’s not unlikely that you’ll bump into them, so be prepared to say a cheery hello! Parliament lies on the eastern side of St Mark’s Square. The building is a mix of classical, neo-renaissance and art nouveau styles and is a listed building. It was designed by architect Lavoslav Kalda, and was completed in 1911. Before that, the Croatian Parliament, which has a history dating back to 1737, used to sit in buildings scattered around Gornji grad, including the palace which once stood at the spot where Parliament is today. The building used by the Croatian Government is on the western side of the square. This edifice is called Banski dvori. The building got its name thanks to the fact that between 1809 and 1918 it was home to the Croatian Bans – state dignitaries. This is where Ban Josip Jelačić, he for whom Zagreb’s main square is named, lived and died. This is also a protected building.

Potraga za monumentalnim gornjogradskim građevinama koje čuvaju povijesna sjećanja vodi do Markova trga , na kojem su zgrade Sabora i Vlade. Gornji je grad središte hrvatskog političkog života. Tu stoluju zakonodavna i predstavnička vlast, od naroda izabrani zastupnici i Vlada na čelu s predsjednikom. Moguće je da ih za svojeg obilaska sretnete, pa se s njima i pozdravite. Sabor se nalazi na istočnoj strani Markova trga, a zgrada je građena u stilu klasicizma, neorenesanse i secesije i zaštićeni je spomenik kulture. Projektirao ju je arhitekt Lavoslav Kalda, a radovi na njoj završeni su 1911. godine. Prije toga Hrvatski sabor zasjedao je po raznim zgradama Gornjega grada pa i u baroknoj palači koja je bila na mjestu današnje sabornice. Sjedište Vlade Republike Hrvatske na zapadnoj je strani Markova trga, u Banskim dvorima, zgradi koja je od 1809. do 1918. bila dom hrvatskih banova, državnih dostojanstvenika. Tu je živio i umro i ban Josip Jelačić po kojemu je dobio ime i glavni, najveći zagrebački trg. I ta je barokna jednokatnica zaštićeni spomenik kulture.

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Tour One | Ruta 1 A guard | Stražar

If you have done your planning well, or strike it lucky, so that you find yourself in front of Banski dvori at noon at the weekend, on a public holiday or other special occasion, you’ll witness the attractive Changing of the Guard of the Cravat Regiment. The maneouvres of the striking soldiers, drilled to perfection, will take your breath away. So, if you chance to meet them, will the Gornji grad musicians with their songs. The Musicians play in Gornji grad on Saturdays between 10 a.m. and 12 noon. Imate li sreće ili urođeni talent za planiranje pa se pred Banskim dvorima nađete subotom ili nedjeljom, za državnog praznika ili u kojoj drugoj svečanoj prigodi i to točno u podne, bit ćete u prilici vidjeti atraktivnu smjenu straže Kravat pukovnije. Ceremonija u kojoj sudjeluju markantni, besprijekorno uvježbani vojnici oduzet će vam dah. Zateknete li se pak na Gornjem gradu u subotu između 10 i 12 sati, svojom će vas svirkom razgaliti gornjogradski svirači...

Upper Town lamps | Gornjogradske svjetiljke

Did you know that the street lamps in Gornji grad and Kaptol are gas lamps p which are lit every evening by lamplighters ? Zagreb glittered in the glow of gas lamps for the first time in 1863 and they are still working today. Every morning, as soon as the dawn paints the sky pink, and every evening, as soon as dusk falls, two lamplighters light (or put out) the lamps, all 217 of them, a job which takes about two hours. If you’d like to see them in action, all you have to do is linger around a lamp somewhere around 18:00. As soon as the light fades along come the lamplighters so that Gornji grad can shine in the gentle glow of the gas lights.

Znate li da Gornji grad i Kaptol imaju plinsku uličnu rasvjetu i da svjetiljke pale nažigači ? Plinske svjetiljke zasjale su u Zagrebu još davne 1863. godine i, evo ih, još su tu i danas! Jer u predvečerje, kad se počne spuštati mrak, dva nažigača pale, a ujutro, čim zora zarudi, gase 217 plinskih lampi. Za taj im posao treba oko 2 sata. Želite li ih vidjeti u akciji, samo se valja pritajiti podno kakve svjetiljke, negdje oko 18 sati. S prvim sumrakom stižu i nažigači, kako bi vas obasjala nježna gornjogradska svjetlost.

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Tour One | Ruta 1

From all of this, such a thorough "conquest" of Gornji grad, it’s easy to get hungry. But that doesn’t mean that you have to stay hungry. On the contrary! A list of restaurants is on page 48.

Od tako zacrtana, temeljita "osvajanja" Gornjega grada zasigurno ćete ogladnjeti. No to ne znači da morate i ostati gladni. Baš naprotiv! Popis restorana na str. 48.

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Later, when your meal has settled, you might take a gentle stroll along Strossmayerovo šetalište (the Strossmayer Promenade), though the shade of the Alley of Horse Chestnuts. Hand in hand, just like the Zagreb families of times past, who with their customary bows would promenade here. There was once a small music pavilion here where Sunday concerts were held. Nowadays in the summertime there is a summer art colony (info on page 38) which you are welcome to join in. Maybe you’ll choose as a motif for your painting a detail from the novel "The Witch of Grič" by the writer Marija Jurić Zagorka. Just as today the whole globe is conquered by novels, films and vampire cartoons, Zagorka’s novel about the persecution of a so-called witch offered equal intrigue, and is full of mysterious doings in the underground walkways of old Grič. The novel was dramatised and staged in the Croatian National Theatre on 18 June 1918.

Summer on Stross | Ljeto na Štrosu

A onda, kad Vam se hrana slegne, lagano se zaputite Strossmayerovim šetalištem – alejom divljih kestena koja nudi ugodan hlad. Ruku pod ruku, poput starih zagrebačkih građanskih obitelji koje su se tuda, uz obavezni naklon prolaznicima, šetale u 19. stoljeću. Nekada je tu bio i mali glazbeni paviljon u kojem su se nedjeljom održavali koncerti, a danas ćete ljeti zateći likovnu koloniju (podaci na str. 38) kojoj se možete lako pridružiti. Tko zna, možda kao motiv svoje slike odaberete neki slikoviti detalj iz romana Grička vještica Marije Jurić Zagorke. Kao što danas svijet osvajaju romani, filmovi i stripovi o vampirima, tako je nekoć popularan bio njezin roman o progonu vještica i misterioznim zbivanjima u podzemnim hodnicima podno Gradeca. On je i dramski uprizoren, a premijera je bila u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu 18. lipnja 1918.

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The Museum of Broken Relationships, on the ground floor of the Kulmer Palace on St Katherine’s Square will soften your heart, make you smile and leave you breathless. This is the only museum in the world where the exhibits show how a breakup need not only mean heartache. Because, when you lose yourself among the items donated by the "unlucky" lovers, full of memories of past loves, you’ll understand that every love affair, even if it ends unhappily, can be witty, fun and a little crazy. The Museum of Broken Relationships has made a world tour, has become the talk of the global village, and has come home and settled into Gornji grad. Its doors are open both to visitors and to those who still have at home mementoes of their broken relationships, things just waiting for a museum to give them a new lease of life. A new life full of new relationships and new stories about love.

Muzej prekinutih veza, smješten u prizemlju Kulmerove palače na Katarinskom trgu, ostavit će vas bez daha, nasmijati i raznježiti. To je jedini muzej na svijetu koji svojim eksponatima dokazuje kako prekid veze ne mora biti samo bolan. Jer kad zaronite među predmete koje su zaljubljeni ostavili kao uspomenu na svoje bivše ljubavi, shvatit ćete kako svaka ljubavna priča, pa bila ona i nesretna, može biti duhovita, zabavna i otkvačena. Muzej prekinutih veza obišao je cijeli svijet pa se vratio kući i skrasio na Gornjem gradu. Vrata su mu otvorena za posjet, ali i za sve one koji još uvijek čuvaju kakav podsjetnik na svoje raskinute veze koji žele darovati, kakav izložak koji samo čeka da bude pohranjen u muzeju, kako bi lakše krenuli dalje u život. U neke nove veze, u neke nove velike priče o ljubavi.

Tour One | Ruta 1

Museums, Galleries & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi

Teddybear | Medvje

di ć

"I lo ve Yo u", 2002. Zagreb

Underpants | Gaće, 2003.-2005. Zagreb

Axe | Sje kir

A Molecular Animal | Molekulska životinja, Ljubljana, Slovenia

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Tour One | Ruta 1

Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej Exhibition view | s izložbe V. Filakovac

The Croatian Natural History Museum in

Croatian Natural History Museum

Demetrova ulica, with two million exhibits, is an unmissable stop for all curious types. Its collection of bones and its exhibition on the life of the Neanderthals, as revealed at an important dig at the nearby town of Krapina, are particularly impressive.

Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej u Demetrovoj

Cata D. Ribar

ulici, s dva milijuna izložaka, nezaobilazna je stanica za sve znatiželjne, a posebno oduševljava zbirkom ostataka kostiju i kulture krapinskih neandertalaca.

The Collection of Dr. Ivan Ribar and Cata Dujšin Ribar, at Demetrova 3, has paintings and sculpture from the 16th to the 20th centuries on show, as well as various items of artwork and antique furniture from the 18th to the 20th centuries. There is also a valuable library with about 2500 books.

Zbirka dr. Ivana Ribara i Cate Dujšin Ribar

The Collection of Dr. Ivan Ribar and Cata Dujšin Ribar

Zbirka dr. Ivana Ribara i Cate Dujšin Ribar u Demetrovoj 3 sadrži slike i skulpture iz razdoblja od 16. do 20. stoljeća te različite predmete umjetničkog obrta i namještaj nastao od 18. do 20. stoljeća. Tu je i vrijedna biblioteka s oko 2.500 knjiga. The evening interactive tour

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Tour One | Ruta 1

The Secrets of Grič reveals the secret

The Lotrščak Tower | Kula Lotrščak

The Secrets of Grič | Tajne Griča

legends of old Zagreb. The tour takes place from 17th May until midSeptember, every Friday and Saturday. Your guide will await you in a black hooded cloak, holding a sign saying "Secrets of Grič", on the corner of Mesnička and Ilica at 21:00. He’ll take you on a night-time encounter with Gornji grad’s secrets. Call 091 461 56 77 for reservations. Tickets cost 100-150kn. Noćna interaktivna tura Tajne Griča otkriva skrivene legende starog Zagreba. Tragom legendi kreće se od 17 svibnja do sredine rujna, petkom i subotom, kad vas u 21:00 sat na križanju Mesničke i Ilice dočekuje vodič s crnim plaštem i kapuljačom i natpisom "Tajne Griča", te vas vodi u noćno razotkrivanje gornjogradskih tajni. Rezervacije na broj 091 461 56 77. Cijena: 100150 kuna.

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Another way to conquer Gornji grad is to approach via Radićeva ulica, which climbs all the way up to Kamenita vrata. Long ago, this was the main thoroughfare and gateway to the city. Gornji grad može se osvojiti i tako da mu priđete Radićevom ulicom, kojom se penjete sve do Kamenitih vrata, koja su nekoć bila glavni i najprometniji ulaz u grad. Kamenita vrata is the only surviving entrance gate to Gornji grad. In 1647, at the time of the plague, all gates into the city were closed except this one. The importance of this gate meant that only the most respectable citizens were chosen to guard it. Not even Marija Jurić Zagorka, Croatia’s first female journalist, could resist writing about Kamenita

vrata in her popular novels. After all, Gornji grad was often the scene of the romantic entanglements in her books. Similarly, the atmosphere of Gornji grad at the turn of the century lends a captivating charm to "The Goldsmith’s Gold", a novel va by Croatian writer August Šenoa. Šenoa’s Dora Krup ić e

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Tour Two | Ruta 2

Op at ov in a

Ra dić ev a

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DONJI GRAD

novel is today a set text for schoolchildren. When we pass through Kamenita vrata, on the left we can see a statue of Dora Krupićeva, the heroine of "The Goldsmith’s Gold", a young woman whose father, Mr Krupić, was entrusted with the keeping of the keys of this very stone gate. The statue is the work of sculptor Ivan Kerdić. What really makes Kamenita vrata special is the chapel with the painting of Our Lady of Kamenita

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Dora ispred Kamenitih vrata (Zagrebački vremeplov)

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lic i

baroque period. Kamenita ulica leads from Kamenita vrata to St Mark’s Square. Be careful not to trip over the chain stretched decoratively between the façades of the buildings and the

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vrata, the patron saint of the City of Zagreb. This is where the people of Zagreb come to pray and light candles for the health of their loved ones. The altar is black, and on top of it, alongside the portrait of Our Lady, are two white statues of St Peter and St Paul, and four figures of angels. The space for the altar is fenced of by an artistically-worked grille, a beautiful example of the blacksmith’s art in the

terraces in front, a chain which apparently comes from the HMS Victory, probably from the time of the Battle of Trafalgar. It is thought that the chain was found by passionate amateur archaeologist Laval Nugent, an Irish-born Field Marshal of the Austrian army. Nugent made a deep impact in Croatia serving in the ranks of the Austrian army during the Napoleonic Wars. Nugent adored antiques, and he amassed a significant collection of artworks and archaeological finds. The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb holds the greater part of his collection.

Tour Two | Ruta 2

Dora in front of the Stone Gate (Zagreb Time Machine)

am t enita Stree

Kamenita vrata danas su jedina očuvana vrata na Gornjem gradu. U vrijeme kuge 1647. godine sva su vrata bila zatvorena osim njih, a koliku su važnost imala svjedoči podatak da su se za njihove čuvare birali najugledniji građani. Kamenita vrata nije u svojim popularnim romanima zaobišla ni Marija Jurić Zagorka (18731957), prva hrvatska novinarka. Gornji je grad, naime, često bio kulisa romantičnih zapleta u njezinim knjigama. Njegovu je

atmosferu u 16. stoljeću dočarao i hrvatski pisac August Šenoa (1838-1881) u romanu Zlatarevo zlato, koji je danas školska lektira. Prođete li Kamenitim vratima i zaputite se Kamenitom ulicom, s lijeve strane ugledat ćete kip Dore Krupićeve, junakinje Šenoina romana, djevojke čiji je otac, zlatar Krupić, bio zadužen za čuvanje ključeva upravo tih gradskih vrata. Skulptura je rad kipara Ivana Kerdića. Ono što ta vrata uistinu

čini posebnima jest kapelica sa slikom Majke Božje od Kamenitih vrata, zaštitnice grada Zagreba, gdje Zagrepčani mole i pale svijeće za sebe i svoje bližnje. Na crnom se oltaru uz Marijinu sliku ističu bijeli kipovi Sv. Petra i Pavla te četiriju anđela. Prostor oltara odijeljen je umjetnički kovanom rešetkom, koja je jedan od najljepših primjeraka barokne kovačke umjetnosti u Zagrebu. Od Kamenitih vrata do Trga Sv. Marka put

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amater, koji je ostavio traga u hrvatskoj povijesti služeći u postrojbama austrijske vojske za napoleonskih ratova. Nugent je volio istraživati starine te je prikupio bogatu kolekciju umjetnina i arheoloških iskopina. Velik dio njegove zbirke čuva se u Arheološkom muzeju u Zagrebu.

Ljekarna u Kamenitoj

And since you’re here, there’s no way you can or should miss St Mark's Square , the heart of Gornji grad, with the Church of St Mark at its core. It is said that the church was built by Venetian craftsmen. Its most valuable part is the gothic south portal with 15 statues in 11 shallow niches. At one time, a statue of St Christopher and of the Virgin Mary and Jesus

Right by Kamenita vrata you’ll y see the oldest pharmacy in Zagreb, mentioned as early as the 14th century. You can still see the original furniture and medicine bottles. Outside there’s a plaque telling us that in 1399 the greatgrandson of Dante Alighieri (writer of "The Divine Comedy") lived here and owned the pharmacy. Tik do Kamenitih vrata nalazi se i najstarija ljekarna u Zagrebu, koja se spominje već u nekim dokumentima iz 14. stoljeća. U njoj ćete još uvijek zateći stari namještaj i ljekarničke bočice, a na pročelju je i spomen-ploča koja podsjeća da je tu 1399. godine živio i ljekarnicu imao praunuk Dantea Alighierija.

stood here, and underneath St Mark, patron saint of Venice and the lion of St Mark. On either side the twelve apostles were arrayed. Today a statue of Christ on the cross stands on the main altar. This is the work of Ivan Meštrović, one of Croatia’s great sculptors. Also of note are the frescoes depicting themes from Croatian history by the painter Jozo

The south portal of the Church of St Mark

Spomen-ploča na zgradi ljekarne

Plaque on the pharmacy building

Pharmacy in Kamenita Street

Tour Two | Ruta 2

vodi preko Kamenite ulice. Pazite jedino da s desne strane ulice ne zapnete za lanac razapet između pročelja zgrade i obližnje terase, koji navodno potječe s broda HMS Victory, najvjerojatnije iz doba Trafalgarske bitke. Vjeruje se da je lanac našao austrijski general Laval Nugent, pasionirani arheolog

Južni portal crkve Sv. Marka

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this is the spot where Matija Gubec endured his coronation as king of the Croatian peasants with a red-hot crown. Other sources claim that he was executed in a forest on the western side of Gradec. However, there is no doubt about the fact that on this square, for centuries, women who were

accused of being witches were burned at the stake. It was from St Mark’s Square, from a courtyard building at number 9, that the first Croatian radio station hit the airwaves with the national anthem. That was in 1926.

Church of St Mark | Crkva Sv. Marka

Hodate li ovom rutom, ne možete i ne smijete zaobići Markov trg , središte Gornjeg grada, kojim dominira crkva Sv. Marka. Gradili su je navodno mletački majstori. Njezina najveća umjetnička vrijednost jest južni gotički portal u kojem je u jedanaest plitkih niša smješteno 15 kipova. Nekad je u sredini stajao Kristov kip i Marija s Isusom i ispod njih zaštitnik Sv. Marko s lavom, dok je s obje strane bilo razmješteno12 apostola. Na glavnom oltaru danas stoji kip raspeta Krista, djelo Ivana Meštrovića, a u crkvi se nalaze i freske slikara Joze Kljakovića s temama iz hrvatske povijesti. Pred oltarom Markove crkve zakletvu su polagali hrvatski banovi. A na trgu ispred crkve nekad se nalazio i Pranger, gradski stup

Tour Two | Ruta 2

Kljaković. The Croatian Bans took their oaths at the altar of St Mark’s Church. On the square in front, there once used to stand the "Pranger", the city’s pillar of shame. In the Middle Ages, Zagreb folk who had broken the law would be tied up and humiliated here. According to legend,

srama, na koji su se u srednjem vijeku vezivali Zagrepčani koji su se ogriješili o zakon. Legenda kaže da je baš na tom trgu za Seljačke bune 1573. užarenom krunom okrunjen vođa hrvatskih seljaka Matija Gubec. Neki drugi izvori tvrde da je pogubljen u šumi sa zapadne strane Gradeca. S Markova se trga također, u dvorišnoj zgradi kuće na broju 9, oglasila godine 1926. nacionalnom himnom prva hrvatska radijska postaja. View of St Mark's Square | Pogled na Markov trg

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Tour Two | Ruta 2

There is a maze of tiny streets that lead you from St Mark’s Square to further adventures in Gornji grad. If you set off along Basaričekova ulica, you’ll see the site of the first brewery in Zagreb (the second one in Croatia). It is therefore eminently reasonable that this street was once called Pivarska ulica (Brewer’s Street), as is the fact that as long ago as 1721 there were regular jollifications in the Gornji grad brewery at number 9. And there where the oldest brewery

was, you’ll find the oldest Zagreb inn, "Pod starim krovovima" ("Under the old roofs"), which dates back to 1830. This is where famous Mnoštvo je uličica koje vas s Trga Sv. Marka vode u dalje istraživanje Gornjega grada. Krenete li Basaričekovom , vidjet ćete gdje je bila prva pivovara u Zagrebu i druga u Hrvatskoj. Posve je razumljivo da se ta ulica nekada zvala Pivarska, kao i to da je bila poprište veselih zabava. A gdje je najstarija pivovara, tu je i najstarija zagrebačka gostionica Pod starim krovovima, otvorena godine 1830. U njoj su se okupljali i uz čašicu o

Croatian writers and poets would meet to talk about politics, sport, women, art and all sorts of other stuff. It was here that a good part of the cult Croatian film "Tko pjeva zlo ne misli" was filmed. The film, by director Krešo Golik, is a romantic comedy with singing, and the title means "He Who Sings Thinks No Evil." The scene where Franjo Šafranek sends his son Perica to Mr Žnidaršić for yet another litre of wine is one of the classics of Croatian cinema. Golik’s film is one of the loveliest works dedicated to the Zagreb of the end of the 1960s. Žnidaršić kept the inn right here at Basaričekova 9, while the scenes in the Šafraneks’ yard were filmed at number 11.

Scene from the movie | scena iz filma "Tko pjeva zlo ne misli" (R. Bašić & F. Bajetić), Croatia Film

politici, sportu, ženama, umjetnosti i koječemu drugome raspravljali poznati hrvatski pisci. Tu se snimao i slavni hrvatski film, odnosno

"ljubavna komedija s pjevanjem" Kreše Golika Tko pjeva zlo ne misli. Scena u kojoj Franjo Šafranek šalje sina Pericu k Žnidaršiću "po još jednu litricu" antologijska je scena hrvatskoga filma, a Golikov film jedna od najljepših posveta Zagrebu s kraja 1960-tih. Žindaršićeva je gostionica Plaque on the Old city brewery building bila baš tu u Basaričekovoj 9, dok su scene u dvorištu Šafranekovih snimljene u kući na broju 11.

Spomen-ploča na zgradi Stare gradske pivovare

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Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej

Croatian Natural History Museum

Definitely worth seeing is the building of the Croatian Natural History Museum . Duke Antun Pejačević (1749-1802) built a palace with a large ballroom in Demetrova ulica. There has been a poster found advertising a performance here of Giovanni Paisello’s opera I filosofi immaginarii by the Barbara Kapf company from Graz on 22 January 1799. Following Pejaćević’s death, the Palace was bought by the King’s chamberlain, the great county prefect Duke Antun Amadé de Várkonyi (1757-1835), with, it is supposed, money from the bishop and Ban’s deputy Maksimilijan Vrhovac (1752-1827). From that time on there is evidence here of the existence of the Amadeo Theatre, which played an exceptionally important role in the cultural life of Zagreb. Vrijedi svakako vidjeti i zgradu Hrvatskog prirodoslovnog muzeja . Riječ je o nekadašnjoj palači s velikom plesnom dvoranom u Demetrovoj ulici, koju je dao sagraditi grof Antun Pejačević (1749-1802). U njoj je, sudeći prema sačuvanom plakatu, 22. siječnja 1799. družina Barbare Krapf iz Graca izvela operu Umišljeni filozofi Giovannija Paisiella. Poslije Pejačevićeve smrti palaču je kupio kraljevski komornik i veliki župan zagrebački grof Antun Amadé de Várkonyi (1757-1835) i to, pretpostavlja se, novcem biskupa i banskog namjesnika Maksimilijana Vrhovca (1752-1827). Od tada se govori o Amadéovu kazalištu, koje je imalo iznimno važnu ulogu u zagrebačkom kulturnom životu 19. stoljeća.

After a good walk and plenty of sightseeing, it’s always wise to have lunch in a nearby restaurant. There are plenty of galleries with art for sale, so you don’t have to leave empty-handed. See the list on page 48. Između šetnji i razgledavanja, mudro je ručati u jednom od restorana. Da ne biste otišli kući bez ikakva suvenira, svratite u koju od brojnih prodajnih galerija. Popis na str. 48.

Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace | palača Vojković-Oršić-Rauch

At Matoševa 9 you can see the baroque Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace, today the Croatian History Museum. U Matoševoj 9 nalazi se barokna palača Vojković-Oršić-Rauch u kojoj je danas Hrvatski povijesni muzej.

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Museums, Galleries & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art – the first of its kind in the world. The Museum’s collection consists of 2000 artworks. Its permanent collection features about 80 iconic paintings and sculptures by some 20 of the greatest naïve artists.

M. Skurjeni, Animal Kingdom | "Životinjski svijet" The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art

Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti prvi je muzej naivne umjetnosti u svijetu. Muzejski fundus čini oko 2000 umjetnina. Stalni postav sadržava, između ostalog, oko 80 antologijskih slika i skulptura dvadesetak klasika naive.

Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti

Croatian History Museum | Hrvatski povijesni muzej

The Croatian History Museum – a coll collection ollect of national and historic significance. The Museum also preserves the spirit of Gornji grad in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries when dances, concerts and theatre productions were held here for the enjoyment of the cream of Croatian society. U Hrvatskom povijesnom muzeju pohranjena je povijesna nacionalna građa. Muzej ujedno čuva i nekadašnji duh društvenog života zagrebačke elite koja se tu okupljala na plesovima, koncertima i kazališnim predstavama tijekom 18, 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća.

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Meštrović Atelier | Atelijer Meštrović

Tour Two | Ruta 2

The Meštrović Atelier – keeps sculptures, drawings, folders full of lithographs and other items owned by the great sculptor Ivan Meštrović. This worldacclaimed master lived in Gornji grad between 1922 and 1942, at Mletačka 8. Atelijer Meštrović čuva skulpture, crteže, mape s litografijama i druge predmete znamenitog kipara Ivana Meštrovića. Taj je umjetnik svjetskoga ugleda stanovao na adresi današnjeg muzeja, u Mletačkoj 8, od 1922. do 1942. godine.

From the exhibition | s izložbe "Winter Silences"

The Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Basaričekova 22) – has an exhibition showing part of the opus of Croatian naïve art.

Galerija Mijo Kovačić smještena je u Basaričekovoj 22, a njezin postav sadržava dio korpusa hrvatske naivne umjetnosti. The Beggar | Prosjak

Zagreb Talks — Do You Speak Croatian? This route is a treat for all those who’d like to learn a few words of Croatian or simply find out how Croatian people greet each other. If you’d like to impress your friends, family and neighbours when you get back home, this is the tour for you!

Zagreb Talks — Do You Speak Croatian? – Ova ruta poslastica je za inozemne goste koji žele naučiti koju hrvatsku riječ ili jednostavno saznati kako se Hrvati pozdravljaju.

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Tour Three | Ruta 3

Zakmardijeve stube

Tour Three Ruta 3 We have travelled to Gornji grad on the Funicular, we’ve walked up along historic Radićeva street, so all that’s left is to climb the steps, the steps known as Zakmardijeve stube. Putovali smo na Gornji grad uspinjačom, hodali Radićevom ulicom, pa je vrijeme da se na njega popnemo Zakmardijevim stubama.

View from the Gradec plateau | Pogled s platoa na Gradecu

The steps "Zakmardijeve stube" were built in 1911 and lead up to the large plateau from which you can enjoy one of the finest views over Zagreb’s ecclesiastical centre, Kaptol, the Cathedral, the Church of St Mary and Donji grad (the modern-day city centre). Zakmardijeve stube projektirane su godine 1911. i vode na plato s kojeg se pruža jedan od najljepših panoramskih pogleda na Kaptol, zagrebačku katedralu, crkvu Sv. Marije i Donji grad.

Statue of A. G. Matoš | Skulptura A. G. Matoša

If climbing all those steps has tired you out a little, why not sit down on one of the benches on the delightful promenade Strossmayerovo šetalište (known ( fondly as "Štros" ), right next to the statue of Antun Gustav Matoš. The statue of this great Croatian writer was created in 1978 by renowned scupltor Ivan Kožarić. Matoš is always here to listen to you and keep you company, and it’s just a matter of time before the moustachioed fellow speaks back to you.

Učini li vam se nakon uspona da je stuba bilo previše i hodajući ste se umorili, predahnite na Strossmayerovu šetalištu , na klupi uz Antuna Gustava Matoša (1873-1914). Skulpturu velikog hrvatskog književnika izradio je godine 1978. kipar Ivan Kožarić (r. 1921). Matoš je uvijek tu da vas sasluša, a samo je pitanje dana kad će se dogoditi čudo pa će stari brko i progovoriti.

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The view of Gradec & Klovićevi dvori

Your walk now leads you through Gradec , where there was once an old mint. It was here, between 1260 and 1384, that the silver coins of the Croatian bans and kings were minted. Šetnja vas zatim vodi preko Gradeca na kojem se nalazila kovnica novca. Tu su se od 1260. do 1384. kovali srebrnjaci hrvatskih banova i kraljeva.

Pogled na Gradec i Klovićeve dvore

Ilirski trg

If you yourself have any coins in your pockets, they will come in handy on Jesuit Square , where you can throw them into the fountain called "The Fisherman and the Snake", a work by sculptor Simeon Roksandić from 1908. Opposite the fountain you’ll find the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, once a Jesuit monastery. It is made of two

Zvjezdarnica Zagreb Muzej Grada Zagreba

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historically and architectually distinct parts: the monastery, built in the 17th century, and a medieval tower, an integral part of the monastery and barely visible today. The tower was built in the middle of the 13th century, and judging by the thickness of its walls and its square shape it had the same status as the other Gornji grad towers, Lotrščak, the Priest’s Tower and the tower of Kamenita vrata.

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The Fisherman and the Snake Ribar sa zmijom

In front of Klovićevi dvori

Djevojke ispred Klovićevih dvora

A kakav god novčić u džepu imali, dobro će vam doći na Jezuitskom trgu , da ga bacite za sreću u fontanu Ribar sa zmijom, djelo Simeona Roksandića nastalo 1908. Nasuprot fontane je zgrada Galerije Klovićevi dvori , u kojoj se nekad nalazio isusovački samostan. Sastoji se od dva povijesno i arhitektonski različita djela: samostana iz 17. stoljeća i srednjovjekovne gradske kule, ugrađene u zgradu samostana, koja se danas jedva primjećuje. Kula je sagrađena sredinom 13. stoljeća, a po debljini i kvadratnom tlocrtu istovjetna je drugim gornjogradskim kulama: Lotrščaku, Popovu tornju i kuli Kamenitih vrata.

Lapidarij

It’s not only ancient historyy that was made in Gornji grad. Croatian rock was born here too, in a club called Lapidarij in Habdelićeva ulica. The "Lap" was extremely popular, a cult night club during the golden age of the Yugoslav New Wave. Here, between 1977 and 1983, legendary concerts were held, and it’s interesting to note that the music of the bands of that time was labelled "trash" by the authorities, which meant that they had to pay extra taxes, making their music more expensive to buy. The Lapidarij club was and still is the epitome of everything good about the New Wave. Na Gornjem gradu nije se pisala samo starija povijest Zagreba. Rađala se tu u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća rock glazba – i to u klubu Lapidarij , smještenom u Habdelićevoj ulici. Popularni Lap, u kojem su se od 1977. do 1983. održavali legendarni koncerti, bio je kultno mjesto i zaštitni znak jugoslavenskog Novog vala. Zanimljivo je da je ta glazba dobila od ondašnjih vlasti etiketu šunda, zbog čega su njezini autori i izvođači morali plaćati državi dodatni porez pa su im ploče u trgovinama imale veću cijenu od ostalih.

Opatička ulica (Nun Street) was named after the nuns of the Convent of St Clare, a Clarissan order who lived in the building where today’s Museum of the City of Zagreb is housed. The convent was renowned because of its nuns who came from the highest social classes: it was joined by noblewomen and the daughters of knights. In the 17th and 18th centuries there was hardly a nobleman who didn’t send at least one

of his daughters to St Clare’s Convent. Opatička ulica is also endowed with three very beautiful baroque palaces: the Jurić Palace (Opatička 2), the Rauch-Sermage Palace (Opatička 6), and the Bužan Palace (Opatička 8). Today’s Croatian Institute of History at Opatička 10 is also a former palace, built for the VojffyParavić noble family. The palace has a golden hall, and a gallery with some of the greatest works of Croatian art and sculpture.

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The Golden Hall | Zlatna dvorana

Opatička ulica dobila je ime po opaticama Sv. Klare ili klarisama, koje su imale samostan u današnjem Muzeju grada Zagreba. Taj je samostan bio na glasu po redovnicama plemenita roda, odnosno pripadnicama najviših društvenih slojeva. Naime, u 17. i 18. stoljeću nije bilo zagrebačke plemićke obitelji koja nije barem jednu kćer poslala u samostan Sv. Klare. Opatičku ulicu krase i tri vrlo lijepe barokne palače: palača Juršić (Opatička 2), palača RauchSermage (Opatička 6) te palača Bužan (Opatička 8).

Pogled na toranj Zvjezdarnice iz Opatičke

View of the Observatory tower from the Opatička Street

The Zagreb Observatory is also in Opatička ulica, housed in the "Priest’s Tower" (Popov toranj) which is at number 22. The tower was restored in 1903, and the observatory celebrates its 108th anniversary this year. Na Popovu tornju (Opatička 22) nalazi se Zvjezdarnica Zagreb . Otvorena je godine 1903. i ove godine slavi 108 godina postojanja.

Današnji Hrvatski institut za povijest u Opatičkoj 10 smješten je u palači sagrađenoj sredinom 19. stoljeća za plemićku obitelj VojkffyParavić. Zgradu krasi zlatna dvorana te galerija u kojoj su izložena reprezentativna djela hrvatskog slikarstva i kiparstva.

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Zvjezda rnice Zagreb

Corona | Korona

Teleskop

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The catacombs , once part of a convent, are now part of the Museum of the City of Zagreb. The famous Croatian architect Viktor Museum of the City of Zagreb

Muzej grada Zagreba

Ilyrian Square | Ilirski trg

Kovačić is responsible for their current appearance, and he was posthumously awarded the Grand Prix at the international arts and crafts fair in Paris against stiff competion from all over the world, including names such as Auguste Perret, Le Corbusier, Bruno Taut and Konstantin Melnikov. Za današnji izgled katakombi , bivšeg samostana koji je danas dio Muzeja grada Zagreba zaslužan je znameniti hrvatski arhitekt Viktor Kovačić (1874-1924), o čijem svjetskom ugledu svjedoči i posthumno mu dodijeljena glavna nagrada na glasovitoj pariškoj izložbi za umjetnost i obrt (1925), na kojoj su svojim projektima sudjelovali, među ostalima, August Perret, Le Corbusier, Bruno Taut i Konstantin Meljnikov.

At the crossroads of Opatička, j Jurjevska and Radićeva is today’s Illyrian Square . It was once called Statue Square: there was a large stone cross on the square, but in 1895 the great architect and urban planner Herman Bollé built a neogothic chapel and statue in the middle of the square. A gentleman named Matija Pallain, in his day job the manager of the post office at Opatička 20, opened a café and cake shop here called the Palainovka. And it’s still here today – the Palainovka Coffee House, designed by the architect Bartol Felbinger. It is said that this is the oldest coffee house south of Vienna: coffee has been drunk here since 1847.

Na mjestu gdje se križaju Opatička, Jurjevska i Radićeva ulica današnji je Ilirski trg . Prije se zvao Kipni trg i na njemu se nalazio veliki kameni križ, a 1895. na sredini je sagrađena neogotička kapelica s kipom, koju je projektirao ugledni urbanist i arhitekt Herman Bollé. Matija Pallain, nekadašnji upravitelj pošte u Opatičkoj ulici 20, na trgu je otvorio slastičarnicu i kavanu Palainovka, za koju je nacrte navodno izradio arhitekt Bartolomej Felbinger. Tu kavanu, jednu od najstarijih i najpopularnijih u Zagrebu, u kojoj se još od 1847. ispija kava, možete posjetiti i danas!

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Tour Three | Ruta 3

splendid. The balls were first and foremost social occasions, with fun Ćirilmetodska ulica is today’s taking a back seat. They were held City Hall . There was once an old in some ten ballrooms all over Gornji theatre here in which the famous grad: in the theatre building; in the opera diva Milka Trnina started hall of the brewery, in the City her career, appearing in 1882 Hall, in Opatička ulica, in the in Verdi’s Un ballo Ban’s Palace on St in maschera. Mark’s Square... The theatre in The walz, the Gornji grad was mazurka, and built thanks to the 18th century the merchant dances the Kristofor cotillon and the Stanković, quadrille were Zagreb Coat of Arms, City Hall | Grb who won 30.000 grada Zagreba, gornjogradska vijećnica some of the popular florins in the Vienna dances of the time. lottery and donated them for The hosts of the balls ensured that the construction of the first theatre every lady and gentleman received, building. Today "Just Married" on entering the ballroom, a decorative couples sign up for eternal love in fan and a booklet with a list of the the registrar’s office in the City Hall. dances. Inside the building you can also visit the Kristofor Stanković Gallery With a bit of luck, you (opening hours: 09:00 to 20:00, closed might find one of the weekends). Or you can enjoy one of booklets with lists of dances from the evening concerts which are also those long-ago times in one of Gornji held in the gallery. It was in the City grad’s many antique shops and Hall that Croatian was first recognized galleries – a little reading material as an official language, and in 1846 for your perusal as you sip a coffee in the first Croatian opera, Love and a Gornji grad coffee house to round Malice by Vatroslav Lisinski was list on page off your walk. See the performed here. The society balls 48. that were held here were particularly

10 The crowning point of

Milka Trnina

Ćirilmetodsku ulicu krasi Gradska vijećnica . U 19. stoljeću tu je bilo staro gornjogradsko kazalište, u kojem je nastupom u Krabuljnom plesu godine 1882. karijeru počela proslavljena operna diva Milka Trnina. Kazalište je podignuto zaslugom trgovca Kristofora Stankovića, koji je za njegovu izgradnju darovao 30.000 zlatnika što ih je osvojio na lutriji u Beču. Danas u Gradskoj vijećnici možete susresti mlade vjenčane parove koji su netom potpisali bračni ugovor. U njoj možete posjetiti i Galeriju Kristofor Stanković (radno vrijeme: 09:00-20:00, vikendom zatvoreno) ili pak u njezinu prostoru uživati u nekom od večernjih koncerata. U zgradi je Vijećnice 1846. izvedena prva hrvatska opera Ljubav i zloba Vatroslava Lisinskog, a godinu dana nakon toga u njoj je hrvatski proglašen službenim

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Tour Three | Ruta 3

jezikom. Osim toga, u njoj je bila jedna od desetak gornjogradskih plesnih dvorana, koje su imale važnu ulogu u organizaciji zagrebačkog društvenog života u 19. stoljeću. Ples je, naime, prije svega bio društveni događaj, a tek potom zabava. Plesao se valcer, mazurka, cotillon i quadrille... A organizatori plesa brinuli su se da svaka dama i gospodin pri ulasku u dvoranu dobiju ukrašenu lepezu i knjižicu s popisom plesova.

Tko zna, možda sličnu knjižicu s popisom plesova iz tih vremena nađete u nekoj od brojnih prodajnih galerija, pa je s veseljem proučite uz kavu koju ćete na kraju šetnje ispijati u nekoj od gornjogradskih kavana. Popis na str. 48.

Klovićevi dvori

Museums, Galleries & Recommended Tours Muzeji, galerije i razgledi The Klovićevi dvori Gallery is an essential part of

nezaobilazno je mjesto kulturne ponude grada Zagreba. Veliki izložbeni projekti koji reprezentiraju nacionalnu kulturu, ugošćivanje poznatih svjetskih izložbi kao i stotine tisuća posjetitelja dovoljno govore o visokim standardima te galerije.

L. Artuković

Zagreb’s cultural offering. It holds exhibitions presenting national culture, as well as hosting exhibits on the international circuit. Hundreds of thousands of visitors pay testimony to the high standards of the gallery.

Galerija Klovićevi dvori

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Tour Three | Ruta 3

The Museum of the City of Zagreb, with its

A Walk With Zagorka Through Zagreb

Šetnja Zagrebom sa Zagorkom sasvim je moguća misija! Zahvaljujući glumačkom performansu, znamenita zagrebačka spisateljica i kroničarka, feministkinja i novinarka Marija Jurić Zagorka provest će vas Gornjim gradom, odgovarajući pritom na sva vaša pitanja. Ture nedjeljom organizira Društvo Marije Jurić Zagorke, predbilježbe se primaju na broj 095 901 46 61 kod Dubravke Vidović predsjednice udruge, koja je radila na projektu o Zagorki u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu. Zagorka će vas, kako je i red, čekati u dogovoreno vrijeme u Tkalčićevoj ulici ispred svoga spomenika.

Statue of M. J. Zagorka on Tkalčićeva Street | Zagorkin kip u Tkalčićevoj ulici

is an entirely feasible mission! Thanks to the magic of the performing arts, the famous Zagreb writer, chronicler, feminist and journalist Marija Jurić Zagorka will lead you through Gornji grad and answer all your questions. The tours, which are held on Sundays in every month, are organized by the Marija Jurić Zagorka Society. You should reserve your place, which you can do by calling Dubravka Vidović - president of Society, on 095 901 46 61. Ms Vidović also worked on a dramatisation of Zagorka’s life for the Croatian National Theatre. Fittingly enough, Zagorka will be waiting for you at the allotted time in front of her statue in Tkalčićeva street.

Muzej grada Zagreba Museum of the City of Zagreb

permanent exhibition, leads you back through the centuries, painting a portrait of the city from all aspects: politics, religion, history, economy, architecture, culture, leisure and everyday life. Muzej grada Zagreba vodi vas svojim stalnim postavom na uzbudljivo putovanje kroz stoljeća, portretirajući život grada u njegovim najrazličitijim aspektima. Tu ćete osim o političkoj, gospodarskoj i crkvenoj povijesti grada doznati mnogo i o njegovoj materijalnoj i pisanoj kulturi kao i o svakodnevnom životu Zagrepčana.

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Events | Događanja

Events Događanja The Changing of the Guard Smjena straže U vrijeme Tridesetogodišnjega rata u 17. stoljeću hrvatska laka konjica, na glasu po iznimnom junaštvu, pristupila je francuskoj vojsci. Godine 1664. u sklopu francuske kraljevske vojske utemeljena je pukovnija "Royal Cravattes". Želite li vidjeti kako izgleda smjena straže ugledne Kravat-pukovnije, budite nazočni dvosatnoj ceremoniji koja počinje atraktivnom "pripremom straže i pregledom naoružanja". Nakon toga straža se postavlja na nekoliko lokacija, od Markova trga, preko Trga bana Jelačića do Gospina kipa na Kaptolu. Promarširajte Zagrebom u društvu oružara, trubača, bubnjara, stjegonoše i njihova zapovjednika i upoznajte Gornji grad na poseban način. Smjena straže počinje u 11:40, a završava u 14:20. The Changing of the Guard | Smjena straže

During the Thirty Years’ War, in the 17th century, the Croatian light cavalry, known for its exceptional heroism, joined the French army. The exceptional military skill and original appearance of the Croatian soldiers was affirmed in the year 1664 by the founding of the Croatian regiment of the Royal Cravattes within the French Royal Army. You can see for yourself the Changing of the Guard of the brave Croatian soldiers at the two-hour ceremony which begins with the attractive "Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection". The whole unit takes part in the ceremony, after which the guards are positioned at the appropriate positions, which are incidentally attractive sights for tourists, from St Mark’s Square via Zagreb’s main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, to the statue of Our Lady on Kaptol. March through Zagreb in the company of the armourer, the trumpeter, the drummer, the standard-bearer and the commander, and get to know the sights of Gornji grad in a completely new way. The Changing of the Guard starts at 11:40 and ends at 14:20.

Date | Datum: 13.04-30.09. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 05.08. Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day | Dan domovinske zahvalnosti, 08.10. Independence Day | Dan neovisnosti, 18.10. Cravat Day | Dan kravate Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Tourist Information Centre | Turistički informativni centar, Trg bana J. Jelačića 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, 481 40 54. Open | Radno vrijeme: October-May 31 08:3020:00, Saturday 09:00-18:00, Sunday and public holidays 10:00-16:00. June-September 30 08:30-21:00, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 09:00-18:00 | listopad-31. svibnja 08:30-20:00, subotom 09:00-18:00, nedjeljom i praznicima 10:00-16:00. Lipanj-30. rujna 08:30-21:00, subotom, nedjeljom i praznicima 09:00-18:00.

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e Th

city ar hman | Grads straž watc ki

M. J. Zagorka on the right | M. J. Zagorka s desne strane

Zagreb Time Machine | Zagrebački vremeplov

Dora Krupićeva

Is it not so that many of us have wished, at least once in our lives, we could go back in time? Every Saturday and Sunday between 13 April and 29 September, the Zagreb Time Machine whisks us back to times past, to city streets alive with the music of the old Zagreb salons and populated by the heroes of old stories, legends and lives. The Street Musicians, the Zagreb Cinkuši Society and the Potepuhi Quartet, will lead you through Gornji grad and whisk you back to the old days to the tune of the old, romantic songs of the city. And who knows, maybe the song will lead you to a chance meeting with the postman, blowing his horn when he arrives with the mail, or with

the city watchman who looked after the safety and social mores of the city at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. Maybe the coal porter will rush by, just like in the old days, and whisper you a story or a juicy piece of local gossip that you’d never hear in the newspapers. And maybe you’ll see Manda, the beautiful girl with the water jug at the spring on the main square, who according to legend was spied by a passing prince who pleaded "Mando, dušo, zagrabi!" ("Manda, dear, fetch me some water!"), thus giving the city and the fountain on the main square their names. Take a look around you and maybe you’ll see Dora Krupićeva and Pavle Gregorijanec walk past you, characters from the most popular historical novel set in old Zagreb, The Goldsmith’s Gold. Perhaps they’ll tell you their story, a story of a great love. Or you might have a chat about literature with Marija Jurić Zagorka, journalist, writer and feminist who was not afraid to describe the Zagreb of her time in its true colours. Or perhaps these memories might come to life for you in front of St Mark’s Church, where in the 16th century Matija Gubec, leader of the Peasant Revolt was "crowned" with a red-hot ring of metal and cruelly put to death. This fighter for the rights of the disenfranchised serfs said "The time will come when my eyes will look down from the sky at my people, a free and happy Croatian nation."

Events | Događanja

Zagreb Time Machine Upper town in the Past – Upper town Musical Panorama Zagrebački vremeplov Gornji grad u prošlosti – Gornjogradske glazbene vedute

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Events | Događanja

Tko to od nas nije bar jednom poželio vratiti se u prošlost? Od 13. travnja do 29. rujna "Zagrebački vremeplov" vraća vas svake subote i nedjelje u minula vremena, kad su zagrebačkim ulicama šetali junaci nekih starih priča, legendi i života i odjekivala glazba nekadašnjih salona. Gornjogradskim ulicama uz starogradske, ljubavne pjesme, vode vas i vraćaju u prošle dane ulični svirači – "Zagrebački cinkuši" i kvartet "Potepuhi". Tko zna, možda baš pjesma pobudi sjećanje na poštare koji noseći pisma pušu u rog ili na nekadašnje gradske stražare koji su se brinuli za sigurnost , ali i društveni moral Zagrepčana. Možda kraj vas protrči i kolporter, pa vam šapne kakvu lokalnu priču, kakav dobar trač koji u novinama nećete naći. A možda ste te sreće da na Trgu bana Josipa Jelačića susretnete Mandu, prekrasnu djevojku s vrčom koju je žedan ban na izvoru vode ugledao pa kazao

molećivo: "Mando, dušo, zagrabi!" Izvor se danas zove Manduševac, a grad – Zagreb! Osvrnite se oko sebe bar tu i tamo, jer možda kraj vas Kamenitom ulicom šeće Dora Krupićeva i Pavle Gregorijanec, likovi najpopularnijeg povijesnog romana starog Zagreba "Zlatarevo zlato". Možda vam ispričaju svoju priču, priču o velikoj ljubavi. O književnosti možete koju prozboriti i s Marijom Jurić Zagorkom, novinarkom i spisateljicom, feministicom koja se nije libila Zagreb onoga vremena opisivati onakvim kakav je bio. A možda vam sjećanja ožive pred Markovom crkvom, gdje je u 16. stoljeću okrunjen užarenom željeznom krunom i okrutno pogubljen Matija Gubec, vođa Seljačke bune i borac za prava obespravljenih kmetova, koji je govorio: "Doći će doba kad će moje oči gledati s neba na slobodan i sretan moj hrvatski puk."

Date | Datum: 13.04-29.09. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Tourist Information Centre | Turistički informativni centar, Trg bana J. Jelačića 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, 481 40 54. Open | Radno vrijeme: October-May 31 08:3020:00, Saturday 09:00-18:00, Sunday and public holidays 10:00-16:00; June-September 30 08:30-21:00, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 09:00-18:00 | listopad-31. svibnja 08:30-20:00, subotom 09:00-18:00, nedjeljom i praznicima 10:00-16:00; lipanj- 30. rujna 08:30-21:00, subotom, nedjeljom i praznicima 09:00-18:00.

Summer on Stross Ljeto na Štrosu Can you plan to spend your summer far from the sea? Of course you can! There is no doubt that many of the people of Zagreb plan to spend their summer right here on Stross. In the pleasing shade of centuries-old trees, there is an almost palpable romance on the promenade named Strossmayerovo šetalište, or Stross for short. This year, the whole summer, right until 23rd September, is given over to the Summer on Stross festival, offering a range of cultural, recreational and tourist events. Strossmayerovo šetalište will once again reverberate to the sound of jazz, soul, swing, and ethno music, performed by more than 80 groups of musicians. Može li se ljeto planirati daleko od mora? Naravno da može! Nema sumnje da će mnogi Zagrepčani ljeto provesti na Štrosu! Uz ugodan hlad stoljetnih stabala i gotovo opipljivu romantiku Strossmayerova šetališta i ove godine "Ljeto na Štrosu" do 23. rujna nudi čitav niz kulturnih, zabavnih i turističkih priredbi. Strossmayerovim šetalištem ponovno će odjekivati taktovi Jazz-a, soul-a, swing-a i etno-glazbe u izvedbi više od 80 glazbenih sastava. Date | Datum: 15.05-23.09. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Strossmayerovo šetalište, www.ljetonastrosu.com. More details from the information desk in Gornji Grad. | Detaljni program možete dobiti na informativnom pultu na Gornjem gradu.

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G. Gottwald

As part of the Summer on Stross festival on the northern side of Strossmayerovo šetalište, there will be free workshops open to all. On weekdays there will be workshops for decorating textiles, for drawing, making toys, modelling clay, collage, graphic design, painting and more. Weekdays 16:00-19:00 and weekends 16:00-20:00. No workshops on public holidays and Monday. Apart from workshops, there will be original artworks by members of the Croatian Association of Artists for sale. Open: Weekdays 11:0023:00. Weekends and public holidays 10:00-20:00. Every day, apart from the workshops and other events, artists of many kinds, portraitists, cartoonists, painters, illustrators and others will create works right here which will be for sale. Open: free choice of the artists.

Kao dio manifestacije "Ljeto na Štrosu" održava se na sjevernoj strani Strossmayerova šetališta. Radionice izrade predmeta i umjetnina u različitim tehnikama (oslikavanje tekstila, crtanje, izrade igračaka, glinamol, kolaž, grafičke tehnike, slikanje). Radionice su besplatne za sve sudionike, a održavaju se radnim danom 16 do 19 i vikendom 16-20 sati, osim blagdana i ponedjeljkom. Na istom mjestu mogu se kupiti originalni radovi članova Hrvatskog društva likovnih umjetnika. Neovisno o radionicama i ostalim sadržajima, portretisti, karikaturisti, slikari, crtači, ilustratori i ostali likovni umjetnici na licu će mjesta stvarati svoje radove koji će se moći i kupiti. Radno vrijeme: po slobodnom izboru umjetnika.

Events | Događanja

Gornji Grad Art Colony Gornjogradska likovna kolonija

Half New Year's Eve | Doček Pola Nove godine

Date | Datum: 01.06-01.09. We recommend | Preporučujemo: Art workshops open to the public on Strossmayerovo šetalište | Likovne radionice otvorenog tipa za građanstvo – Strossmayerovo šetalište Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Detailed information about the programme of events on www.hdlu.hr, or www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. There will be a notice board with the detailed programme in Gornji grad, or call 461 18 19. | Sve informacije o programu možete doznati na www.hdlu.hr, na stranicama www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr ili na broj tel. 461 18 19. Na Gornjem gradu izložen je pano s detaljnim rasporedom.

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Events | Događanja

Evenings in Grič Večeri na Griču Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti ove će godine uživati u programu Večeri na Griču. Riječ je o jednom od najstarijih ljetnih glazbenih festivala u Hrvatskoj. Taj festival međunarodnog karaktera, koji ugošćuje brojne izvođače iz regije, održava na Gornjem gradu (Atrij Klovićevih dvora i Crkva sv. Katarine).

Matija Dedić Trio

Minstrel

If you’re in Zagreb this summer you’ll be able to enjoy the "Evenings in Grič", one of the oldest summer music festivals in Croatia. This is an international festival attracting an array of performers from throughout the region. Concerts will fill the summer nights with music at two of Gornji grad’s atmospheric open air stages: St. Catherine's Church and the atrium of Klovićevi dvori.

Date | Datum: 29.06-01.08. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 29.06 Gabi Novak feat. Matija Dedić Trio , 05.07 Minstrel ensemble and guests (Spanish early music) | Minstrel- Ansambl za ranu glazbu i gosti(španjolska rana glazba), 26.07 Saxophone Quartet (Antonio Vivaldi : Four Seasons) | Kvartet saksofona (Antonio Vivaldi : Četiri godišnja doba) Tickets | Ulaznice: 40-120 kn Info: Koncertna direkcija Zagreb, tel. 450 12 00, 450 12 08, www.kdz.hr

Amadeo Stage Scena "Amadeo" The Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum is the summer stage of the Amadeo Urban Theatre, Film and Music Stage. The rich programme of events lasts right through until the beginning of September. This year’s lineup includes the Edin Karamazov and Friends festival, the second Flamenco Festival and more. The "Mali Amadeo" programme offers a diverse range of plays for children, while the "Amadeoff Scene" is a showcase for performances from a variety of amateur theatre festivals. Atrij Hrvatskog prirodoslovnog muzeja ljetna je pozornica Klupske kazališnoglazbene scene "Amadeo". Bogat program traje sve do početka rujna. U sklopu ovogodišnjeg programa domaća i inozemna publika uživat će u Festivalu Edin Karamazov i prijatelji, Drugom flamenko festivalu i dr. Program "Mali Amadeo" nudi raznolik kazališni program za djecu, dok se u sklopu “Scene Amadeoff” održavaju predstave s različitih festivala amaterskog kazališta. Date | Datum: 16.07-31.07, 24.08-31.08, 1.09-13.09 We recommend | Preporučujemo: 25.07-27.07 Flamenco Festival | Flamenko festival. 01.09-05.09 Edin Karamazov and Friends Festival | Festival Edin Karamazov i prijatelji Tickets | Ulaznice: 50-90 kn, on sale every day 19:00-21:00; 25 kn for Mali Amadeo, entry to Amadeoff performances free. All performances start at 21:00, Mali Amadeo 10:00. | Cijena 50-90 kn, ulaznice se mogu kupiti svaki dan 19:00-21:00. 25 kn Mali Amadeo, besplatan ulaz za Scenu Amadeoff. Svi programi počinju u 21:00, Mali Amadeo 10:00. Info: Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum | Atrij Hrvatskoga prirodoslovnog muzeja, Demetrova 1, tel 485 17 00, 481 69 08, www.scenaamadeo.hr

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The International Folklore Festival is the most highly-regarded event showcasing what may be termed authentic folk culture in Croatia. Participants at the Festival are amateurs who are dedicated to preserving and presenting their native cultural heritage. The Festival has been held in Zagreb since 1966, and is the successor to a festival of peasant culture which had been held since the 1930s. The International Folklore Festival presents and promotes the heritage of all nations and cultures, and contributes to the promotion of cultural diversity as one of the greatest treasures of mankind. This year’s festival is dedicated to Croatia’s entry to the EU (which takes place on 1 July), and presents music and dances common to many European nations and cultures such as the promenade, contra dance, quadrille, cotillion, mazurka, waltz, polka and csardas. This year’s performers hail from Australia, Austria, the Czech Republic, France, Greece, Italy, Hungary, Poland, Slovenia, Slovakia and Spain. As well as concerts on the main square, in Gornji grad and selected places outside Zagreb there’ll be workshops, exhibitions and performances of ethnic and religious music.

Međunarodna smotra folklora najuglednija je manifestacija tzv. izvornog folklora u Hrvatskoj, odnosno folklornog amaterizma posvećenog njegovanju zavičajne baštine. Održava se u Zagrebu od 1966. godine, a nasljednica je smotri hrvatske seljačke kulture organiziranih od 1930-ih. Predstavljajući različite narode i kulture, Smotra pridonosi promicanju ideje o kulturnoj raznolikosti kao općoj vrijednosti čovječanstva. Ove godine Smotra folklora posvećena je ulasku Hrvatske u Europsku uniju (1. srpnja), a u skladu s time bit će predstavljeni muzika i ples zajednički većini europskih naroda i kultura poput: promenade, kontradance, kvadrilje, kotiljona, mazurke, furlane, manfrine, valcera, polke i čardaša. Uz brojne sudionike iz svih krajeva Hrvatske, ove će godine nastupati i gosti iz Australije, Austrije, Češke, Francuske, Grčke, Italije, Mađarske, Poljske, Slovenije, Slovačke i Španjolske. Uz nastupe sudionika na Trgu bana Josipa Jelačića i na Gornjem gradu, program će pratiti izložbe, plesne radionice, koncerti crkvene i etnoglazbe, a sudionici Smotre nastupat će i u okolici Zagreba.

Events | Događanja

47th International Folklore Festival 47. Međunarodna smotra folklora

Date | Datum: 17-21.07. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno. The Festival will take place at various locations throughout Zagreb. Events held in the Upper Town (at the Gradec Stage, the Gornji grad Grammar School and St Katherine's Church) will take place from Friday (19 July) to Sunday (21 July). | Smotra će se održavati u Zagrebu na raznim lokacijama, s time da će se programi na Gornjem gradu (scena Gradec, Gornjogradska gimnazija, Crkva Sv. Katarine) održavati od petka (19.7.) do nedjelje (21.7.). Info: Koncertna direkcija Zagreb, tel. 450 11 95, 450 12 00, www.msf.hr St Katherine’s Church | Crkva Sv. Katarine

International Folklore Festival | Međunarodna smotra folklora

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Events | Događanja

Museum of the City of Zagreb Muzej grada Zagreba Aimed at natives, newcomers and visitors alike, the Museum has a single task: to present you with an enjoyable overview of Zagreb and its history.

Glavna zadaća Muzeja jest iz različitih vizura osvijetliti prošlost i sadašnjost Zagreba starosjediocima, došljacima i gostima grada.

Museum of the City of Zagreb

Muzej grada Zagreba

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The construction of St Katherine’s Church has a long history dating back to the 14th century and continuing to the present day. At first, this was a small Dominican church which, at the beginning of the 17th century came into the hands of the Jesuits who, between 1620 and 1632 built and furnished a new church on the same site consecrated to the same saint. However, two fires in 1645 and 1674 destroyed everything except the walls. Thus, the church was built (or rebuilt) and furnished three times within fifty years, mainly thanks to the Croatian King Ferdinand II and the country’s great and good. Because of the generosity of the Croatian nobility towards the Jesuits and St Katherine’s Church, this Baroque church is often called "the church of the Croatian nobility". Two trumpeters and one organist, together the "Trio barocco", perform at St Katherine’s Church. As well as selected works from the Baroque and classical repertoire, they also play contemporary pieces. Concerts by this trio will leave you breathless! Crkva Sv. Katarine ima svoju dugu graditeljsku povijest od 14. stoljeća, pa do naših dana. Isprva mala dominikanska crkva početkom 17. stoljeća dolazi pod upravu isusovaca koji su, između 1620. i 1632. godine, sagradili i opremili novu

crkvu, na istom mjestu i posvećenu istoj zaštitnici. No, požar guta sve osim zidova dva puta, 1645. i 1674. godine. U pedeset godina crkva je tako tri puta građena i opremana i to prije svega zahvaljujući darežljivosti hrvatskog kralja Ferdinanda II te hrvatskih velikaša. Zbog te darežljivosti hrvatskih plemića prema isusovcima i crkvi Sv. Katarine, ova se barokna crkva naziva i "crkvom hrvatskoga plemstva". U crkvi Sv. Katarine održavaju se koncerti sastava Trio barocco, koji čine dva trubača i orguljaš. Uz odabrana djela barokne i klasične glazbe kao i suvremenih skladatelja, izvedbe tog trija nikoga ne ostavljaju ravnodušnim.

Events | Događanja

St Katherine’s Church Crkva Sv. Katarine

Trio Barocco

We recommend | Preporučujemo: 05.05, 12.05, 19.05, 26.05, 02.06, 19:30h Trio Barocco; The Anno della Fede Cycle | Ciklus Anno della Fede, 09.05 Ivana Srbljan (mezzosoprano), Ivana Biljško (harp | harfa) Info: St Katherine's Church | Crkva Sv. Katarine, Katarinin trg bb, tel. 485 19 50.

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St Mark’s Church is the one which makes St Mark’s Square so special. It’s one of the oldest architectural landmarks in Zagreb, and is the city’s oldest parish church. It was first mentioned in 1256, however its layout indicates Romanesque origins. The church you see today dates from the 14th and 15th centuries, and it was restored in the 19th century when the interior took on its present appearance. An important feature of the church’s interior is the pipe organ. Although St Mark’s has had a pipe organ longer than any church in Croatia, the organ you see today was installed in 2011 and was built in the Wolfgang Eisenbarth workshop in Passau, Germany. On the external wall on the northwest side of the church there is an engraving of the coat of arms of the City of Zagreb dating from 1499. But what makes St Marks Church really stand out is its roof. The southern slope of the roof is decorated with the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia and the coat of arms of the City of Zagreb. Records show that music has been performed in St Mark’s Church since the 14th century. Today’s performances include the work of the Oratory Choir of St Mark and St Mark’s Soloists. Crkva Sv. Marka je ona koja čini Trg svetog Marka posebnim. Jedan je to od najstarijih arhitekturnih spomenika grada Zagreba, a istovremeno je i najstarija župna crkva u gradu. Prvi put se spominje tek 1256. godine, makar joj građa ukazuje na romaničko doba. Današnja potiče iz 14. i 15. stoljeća, a obnovljena je u 19. stoljeću čime crkva dobiva i svoj današnji unutarnji izgled. Uz nju se vezuje i najstarija orguljaška tradicija u Hrvatskoj s počecima u 14. st. Prije godinu dana crkva je dobila nove orgulje, sagrađene u majstorskoj radionici Wolfganga Eisenbartha. Na sjeverozapadnom zidu crkve izvana se nalazi uklesan grb grada Zagreba iz 1499. godine. No, ono što Crkvu svetog Marka nadaleko čini poznatom je njeno krovište. Južna strana krova ukrašena je s grbom Kraljevine Hrvatske, Slavonije i Dalmacije te grbom grada Zagreba. Glazbena aktivnost se u Crkvi Sv. Marka spominje još u 14. st . Pri crkvi danas djeluju oratorijski zbor i Solisti Sv. Marka.

Crkva Sv. Marka, interijer

St Mark’s Church, interior

Events | Događanja

St Mark’s Church Crkva Sv. Marka

We recommend | Preporučujemo: 28.04, 20:00h St Mark’s Oratory Choir | Oratorijski zbor crkve Sv. Marka, W.A. Mozart : Requiem, KV 626; 23.06, St Mark’s Oratory Choir | Oratorijski zbor crkve Sv. Marka, W.A. Mozart : Missa brevis u D-molu, KV 194; 22.09, 20:00h St Mark’s Oratory Choir | Oratorijski zbor crkve Sv. Marka, F.Schubert : Misa br.2 u G-duru, D. 167, Ko košuta, Klanjam ti se smjerno Info: St Mark's Church | crkva Sv. Marka, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. 485 16 11

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Until 19 May, the History Museum is hosting an exhibition about Iso Kršnjavi (1845-1927), a Croatian painter, art historian and politician. Towards the end of June the exhibition “Gnalić: Treasures of a 16th Century Shipwreck” opens, running probably into 2014. The exhibition deals with a vessel discovered in the 1960s near the island of Gnalić, close to Biograd on the Dalmatian coast. Evidently a merchant ship sailing from Venice, the items found on board, lost for 400 years, provide unique insights into trade relations and commerce in the 16th century. Hrvatski povijesni muzej je do 19. svibnja domaćin izložbe „Iso Kršnjavi – veliki utemeljitelj / ministar europskog duha“, koja prateći biografiju Isidora Kršnjavoga posjetiteljima predstavlja najznačajnije događaje u politici i kulturi te duh vremena s kraja 19. i početka 20. stoljeća. Krajem lipnja otvara se izložba „Gnalić – blago potopljenog broda iz 16.st.“, a moći će se pogledati sve do prvih mjeseci 2014. godine. Naime, šezdesetih godina 20. stoljeća južno od Biograda na Moru – kod otočića Gnalića – otkriven je potonuli brod s trgovačkim teretom. Brodolom se dogodio krajem 16. stoljeća. Na izložbi će biti predstavljeni predmeti pronađeni na olupini, teret, polufabrikati i sirovine, te se na taj način posjetitelji mogu upoznati sa sadržajem broda i trgovačkim tokovima 16. stoljeća.

Events | Događanja

The Croatian History Museum Hrvatski povijesni muzej

Date | Datum: Iso Kršnjavi-The Great Founder/Minister with a European Spirit | Iso Kršnjavi-Veliki utemeljitelj/ministar europskog duha, until | do19.05, GnalićTreasures of a 16th Century Shipwreck | Gnalić-blago potopljenog broda iz 16.st., June | lipanj 2013- Spring | proljeće 2014 Tickets | Ulaznice: 5-10 kn, children under 7 free | predškolska djeca besplatno. Info: Croatian History Museum | Hrvatski povijesni muzej, Matoševa 9, tel. 485 19 00, Open | Radno vrijeme: 10:00-18:00, Saurdays and Sundays | subotom i nedjeljom 10:00-13:00.

The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art has a permanent exhibition throughout the summer. This museum is considered to be the first museum of naïve art in the world. It is especially focused on preserving the Croatian stylistic interpretation of the naïve as developed during the 20th century. The museum has a collection of 5,000 artworks. The permanent exhibition is made up of around 80 of the most important paintings and sculptures by some 20 leading artists of the naïve movement. Stalan postav cijelo ljeto nudi Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti, koji se smatra i prvim muzejom naivne umjetnosti u svijetu. Muzej čuva djela hrvatskog naivnog stilskog izraza 20. stoljeća. Njegov fundus čini 5.000 umjetnina, među kojima je oko 80 antologijskih slika i skulptura dvadesetak klasika naive.

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The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti

Info: The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art | Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti, Ulica Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. 485 19 11. Open | Radno vrijeme: 10:00-18:00, Saturday and Sunday | subotom i nedjeljom 10:00-13:00. Closed Mondays | Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno.

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Events | Događanja

The Croatian Natural History Museum Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej The Croatian Natural History Museum is holding an exhibition of works by sculptor Petar Dolić, fourth consecutive exhibition dedicated to the painter and graphic artist Izabela Šimunović (1970-2010). The atrium of the Museum is also host to the Amadeo Stage all summer long.

U Hrvatskom prirodoslovnom muzeju posjetitelji će moći pogledati izložbu akademskog kipara Petra Dolića, koja je posvećena akademskoj slikarici i grafičarki Izabeli Šimunović (19702010). Atrij muzeja je tijekom ljeta i domaćin Scene "Amadeo".

The Meštrović Atelier Atelijer Meštrović The Meštrović Atelier, the Meštrović Gallery and the Kaštilac-Crikvine summer residence in Split and the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer in Otavice together comprise the Ivan Meštović Museum. Meštrović is a world-renowned sculptor and perhaps Croatia’s greatest sculptor of all time, and this collection is located in his family home in Gornji grad at Mletačka 8. Meštrović lived here from 1922 to 1942. In the atelier you’ll find an extensive photo-documentary collection and Meštrović’s personal archive, as well as works by other artists connected to the life and work of Ivan Meštrović. The permanent exhibition is housed in an authentic environment, featuring Meštrović’s works from the period up to 1942. An exhibition titled “Miles with Meštrović” runs from 16 April – 16 June. Visiting from the Millesgårdan Museum, Stockholm, the exhibition looks at the friendship and working relationship that developed between Meštrović and Carl Milles (1875-1955), a famous Swedish sculptor, which included taking part in the Modern European Sculpture exhibition

which travelled throughout America in 1927 and 1928. Atelijer Meštrović dio je Muzeja Ivana Meštrovića kojem pripada i splitska Galerija Meštrović Kaštelet-Crikvine, te crkva Presvetog Otkupitelja u Otavicama. Zbirka velikog hrvatskog kipara svjetskog ugleda smještena je u obiteljskoj kući na Gornjem gradu u Mletačkoj 8, gdje je Meštrović živio od 1922. do 1942. godine. U Atelijeru se čuva bogata fotodokumentacija i osobni arhiv umjetnika, ali i djela drugih autora. Stalni postav izložen je u autentičnom ambijentu, s radovima Meštrovića nastalima do 1942. Od 16. travnja do 16. lipnja u Atelijeru će biti postavljena izložba „Miles kod Meštrovića“. Izložba dolazi iz njegova muzeja u Stockholmu, Millesgårdana, upućuje na bliskost dvaju umjetničkih i životnih putova, te se osvrće na prijateljstvo Meštrovića i Carla Milesa (1875. – 1955.), poznatoga švedskog kipara. Meštrović i Miles su zajedno sudjelovali na putujućoj izložbi po Americi Modern European Sculpture 1927.–1928.

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Galerija Klovićevi dvori i preko ljeta se može pohvaliti iznimnim programom. Do 7. srpnja posjetitelji mogu pogledati izložbu „Remek-djela iz Muzeja Picasso, Pariz“, na kojoj su izložena djela Picassova plavoga i ružičastog perioda, protokubizma i istraživanja Afrike, amblematski radovi analitičkoga i sin-

tetičkog kubizma, „klasičnog“ perioda, nadrealističke faze te njegove kasne slike. Iz programa se još može izdvojiti: 04.04.-19.05. Posljedice. Mijenjanje kulturnog pejzaža (Suvremena fotografija); 28.05.-14.07. Mirila - nematerijalna kulturna baština; 26.09.-24.11. Od alegorije do arkadije i 04.10.03.11. Kontejner-ekstravagantna tijela. U sklopu Klovićevih dvora djeluje Galerija kule Lotrščak, koja nudi izložbe fotografija. P. Picasso, "Woman with Ruffle" | "Žena s okovratnikom", 1926

The Klovićevi dvori Gallery has some superb exhibitions laid on over the summer. The exhibition “Masterpieces from the Picasso Museum, Paris” is on till 7 July, showing pieces from Picasso’s blue and pink periods, Cubist works from various phases, his explorations of Africa, his “classical” period, surrealism and his late works. Also: 04.0419.05 “Consequences – The Changing Cultural Landscape” (contemporary photography); 28.05-14.07 “Mirila – Intangible Cultural Heritage”; 26.0924.11 “From Allegory to Arcadia”, and 04.10-03.11 “Kontejner – Flamboyant Bodies”. The Lotrščak Tower Gallery is part of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery and offers exhibitions of photography.

Events | Događanja

The Klovićevi dvori Gallery Galerija Klovićevi dvori

Info: Klovićevi dvori Gallery | Galerija Klovićevi dvori, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 485 19 26, Open until July | Radno vrijeme do srpnja: 10:00-20:00. Open from July | Radno vrijeme od srpnja: 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mondays | Ponedjeljak zatvoreno.

Zagreb Talks Dora is a young lady, Zagreb born and bred, who also happens to be an English teacher and tour guide. She can take you round the city’s sights in a rather special way. On this fun and interactive tour you’ll learn about 20 words of the local lingo and take home, as well as memories, a little notebook with some useful phrases in Croatian.

Mlada Zagrepčanka Dora, profesorica jezika i turistička vodičica, nudi vam razgledavanje grada na osobit način, zabavan i interaktivan razgled na kojem strani gosti mogu naučiti 20-ak hrvatskih riječi, a svaki posjetitelj dobiva na dar malu radnu bilježnicu s korisnim izrazima na hrvatskom jeziku.

Date | Datum: Tours are run by appointment | Prema dogovoru. Tickets | Ulaznice: Call for prices (depends on number of participants ) No reservation necessary, tickets available from the guides before the start of the tour. | Cijena na upit (ovisi o broju ljudi koji se prijavi ). Najave nisu potrebne, karte se kupuju kod vodiča prije razgleda. Info: Tours start in front of the Tourist Information Centre on Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and take in Kaptol and Gornji grad, info@zagrebtalks.com, www.zagrebtalks.com. | Ture uključuju obilazak Kaptola i Gornjeg grada. Polazak ispred Turističkog informativnog centra na Trgu bana Josipa Jelačića. Vidi www.zagrebtalks.com i info@zagrebtalks.com.

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Events | Događanja

The Secrets of Grič Tajne Griča If it is your wish to peer as deep as possible into the past and the secrets of old Zagreb, there’s no better way than to pick up a lantern and reveal the Secrets of Grič through an interactive tour of the Upper Town. When night falls, costumed characters from the novels of Marija Jurić Zagorka will lead you through the Upper Town, telling you its stories and legends and encouraging you to take an active part in recreations of the events of those long ago times. The tours take place on Fridays and Saturdays from 21:00. The starting point is the beginning of Mesnička ulica, where your guide will await you in a black hooded cloak, holding a sign saying "Secrets of Grič". On your lantern-lit path you’ll meet the lamplighter who lit and put out the streetlights of the Upper Town, the loving couple Countess Nera and Captain Siniša, as well as Zagorka herself. You’ll hear, among other things, the songs of Petrica Kerempuh, and maybe burst into song yourself, accompanied by a group of musicians, the Muzikaši.

Želite li proniknuti čim dublje u povijest i tajne starog Zagreba, valja vam uzeti fenjer u ruku. To će vam omogućiti interaktivna tura Gornjim gradom "Tajne Griča". Kad padne noć, kostimirani likovi iz romana Marije Jurić Zagorke vodit će vas Gornjim gradom, otkriti vam njegove priče i legende te vas potaknuti da i sami aktivno sudjelujete u igranim događajima iz tog davnog doba. Tura kreće petkom i subotom u 21:00 sat, a polazište je početak Mesničke ulice, gdje vas čeka vodič s crnim plaštem i kapuljačom i natpisom "Tajne Griča" u rukama. S fenjerom u ruci na svom putu susrest ćete Zagorku, nažigača koji štapom pali i gasi gornjogradske lampe te slavni ljubavni par – kontesu Neru i kapetana Sinišu. Slušat ćete pritom pjesme Petrice Kerempuha, a na zadnjoj postaji možda i sami zapjevate uz Muzikaše i svojom pjesmom prizovete gospona Fulira.

The Secrets of Grič | Tajne Griča

Date | Datum: 17.05-until mid-September | Do sredine rujna Tickets | Ulaznice: 100-150 kn Info: Tickets for sale before the start of the tour. Further details on www.katapult.hr. Reservations on 091 461 56 77 / 091 461 56 72 or by e-mail: tajnegrica@katapult.hr, tajnegrica@gmail.com. | Karte se kupuju prije početka obilaska, a svi detalji mogu se naći na internetskoj stranici www.tajnegrica.hr, www.katapult.hr. Rezervacije na broj 091 461 56 77 / 091 461 56 72 ili na e-mail tajnegrica@katapult.hr, tajnegrica@gmail.com

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Date | Datum: Tours are run by appointment | Prema dogovoru. Tickets | Ulaznice: 90kn per person, or by agreement for groups of less than 20. The price includes a "Witches’ Brew" and a gift for groups and can be in Croatian or English. | 90 kn po osobi za najmanje 20 prijavljenih. U slučaju manjeg broja prijavljenih cijena se mijenja. Cijena uključuje tematsko vođenje na hrvatskom ili engleskom jeziku, "Vještičji napitak", poklon iznenađenja. Info: The evening tour starts at the Manduševac fountain on the main square and is run by a group of professional tour guides and entertainers. Tours will be postponed in case of bad weather. | Mjesto polaska je ispred zdenca Manduševac, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, a grupu vodi licincirani vodič s tri animatora. U slučaju kiše i izvanrednih okolnosti poput nagle bolesti izvođača tura se odgađa. Zdenac života, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, info@zdenaczivota.hr, www.zdenac-zivota.hr.

Events | Događanja

This fascinating interactive tour is a great way to learn about the dark and bloody side of Zagreb’s history as well as the truth about the Zagreb witches. Zanimljiva i interaktivna tematska tura koja je osmišljena kako bi vas upoznala s krvavom i mračnom poviješću grada te s istinom o zagrebačkim vješticama.

Witches' Wheel Tour

Vještičje kolo

Witches' Wheel Tour Vještičje kolo

The Book Tour of Zagreb Knjigom po Zagrebu An interesting interactive tour taking in places connected with the most famous Croatian writers of the 19th and 20th century and the characters they wrote about.

Još jedna zanimljiva interaktivna tura koja obuhvaća obilazak spomenika reprezentativnih hrvatskih književnika iz 19. i 20. st.

Date | Datum: Tours are run by appointment | Prema dogovoru. Tickets | Ulaznice: 70kn per person, or by agreement for schools and groups of less than 20. Price includes a drink. | 70 kn po osobi za grupe od 20 osoba. Za manji broj prijavljenih cijena se mijenja. Popust za škole. Cijena uključuje piće. Info: The tour starts at the statue of Ljudevit Gaj on Gajeva ulica, outside Hotel Dubrovnik, where you’ll meet the professional guides who’ll lead you through both the Lower and the Upper Town. Tours will be postponed in case of bad weather. | Mjesto polaska je ispred spomenika Ljudevita Gaja u Gajevoj ulici (blizu hotela "Dubrovnik"), ruta ide Donjim i Gornjim gradom, a vode ju dva vodiča s licencom. U slučaju kiše i izvanrednih okolnosti poput nagle bolesti izvođača tura se odgađa. Zdenac života, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, info@ zdenac-zivota.hr, www.zdenac-zivota.hr

A Stroll Around Zagreb with Zagorka Šetnja Zagrebom sa Zagorkom If you’d like to get to know Marija Jurić Zagorka, the great Croatian writer and first Croatian woman journalist, why not call the Marija Jurić Zagorka Society. The writer of the novels "The Witch of Grič" and "The Daughter of Lotrščak", among other famous novels, awaits you on Gornji grad.

Da biste upoznali hrvatsku književnicu i prvu hrvatsku novinarku Mariju Jurić Zagorku možete nazvati Društvo Marije Jurić Zagorke. Književnica koja je napisala Gričku vješticu, Kći Lotrščaka i još desetak popularnih romana čeka vas na Gornjem gradu.

Date | Datum: 03.03-01.12. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free | besplatno Info: Tours take place on Sundays by appointment. Bookings: 095 901 46 61, further details on www.drustvozagorke.com. Tours depart from Tkalčićeva ulica in front of the statue of M. J. Zagorka at 10:00, the 2-hour walk ends at the Zagorka memorial apartment at Dolac 8. | Ture se organiziraju nedjeljom, prema najavi. Predbilježbe na broj 095 901 46 61, više informacija na www.drustvo zagorke.com. Tura koja traje 2 sata kreće iz Tkalčićeve ulice ispred Zagorkina spomenika u 10:00 sati, a završava u memorijalnom stanu Zagorka na Dolcu 8.

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Index | Popis

Index Popis Restaurants Restorani Didov san Mletačka 11. Tel. 485 11 54. konoba@konobadidovsan.com, www. konoba-didovsan.com. Open | Radno vrijeme: 10:00-24:00, Sunday | Nedjeljom 11:00-23:00. Pod Gričkim topom Zakmardijeve stube 5. info@restoran-pod-grickimtopom.hr, www.restoranpod-grickim-topom.hr. Tel. 483 36 07. Open | Radno vrijeme: 11:0024:00. Sunday Closed | Nedjeljom zatvoreno. 25.07-05.09. Open | Radno vrijeme: 17:00-24:00, Sunday Closed | Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Prasac Vranicanijeva 6. Tel. 485 14 11. info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Open | Radno vrijeme: MondayFriday 17:00-23:00 | Radnim danom 17:0023:00, Saturday 12:0015:00 & 17:00-23:00 | Subotom 12:00-15:00 i 17:00-23:00. Sunday & Holidays Closed | Nedjeljom i praznikom zatvoreno.

Cafés Kafići Cinkuš Mletačka 9. Tel. 485 10 33. Open | Radno vrijeme: 07:00-24:00. Sunday | Nedjeljom 09:00-24:00. Galerija Lav Opatička 2. Tel. 492 21 08. www.galerijalav.com. Open | Radno vrijeme: 09:0023:00, Sunday | Nedjeljom 10:00-15:00. Molokai Katarinin trg 3. Open | Radno vrijeme: 07:00-24:00, Saturday | Subotom 08:00-02:00, Sunday | Nedjeljom 09:0023:00. Palainovka Ilirski trg 1. Tel. 485 13 57. Open | Radno vrijeme: 08:00-24:00, Friday, Saturday | Petkom, subotom od 08:00-02:00, Sunday | Nedjeljom 08:00-23:00. Tituš Mesnička 47. Tel. 091 722 60 65. Open | Radno vrijeme: 08:30-02:00. Saturday, Sunday | Subotom, nedjeljom 19:0002:00.

Art Galleries Prodajne galerije Galerija Lav Opatička 2. Tel. 492 21 08. www.galerijalav.com. Open | Radno vrijeme: 09:0023:00, Sunday | Nedjeljom 10:00-15:00. Galerija Laval Nugent Opatička 2. Tel. 485 12 78. info@lavalnugent. com, www.lavalnugent. com. Open | Radno vrijeme: 14:00-20:00, Saturday | subotom 10:00-16:00. Sunday Closed | Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Art Shop Kule Lotrščak Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Open | Radno vrijeme: 11:00-19:00. Monday Closed | Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. Art Shop Galerije Klovićevi dvori Jezuitski trg 4. Tel. 485 19 26. www.galerijaklovic. hr. Open until July | Radno vrijeme do srpnja: 10:0020:00. Open from July | Radno vrijeme od srpnja: 11:00-19:00. Monday Closed | Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno.

Trilogija Kamenita 5. Tel. 485 13 94. info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Open | Radno vrijeme: 11:0024:00, Friday-Saturday 11:00-01:00 | Petkom i Subotom 11:00-01:00. Sunday Closed | Nedjeljom zatvoreno.

The Stone Gate | Kamenita vrata

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Impressum

Contents | Sadržaj

Old Zagreb Words fašnik fest frtalj furt gablec gelender gemišt grincajg haustor kefa lajbek plac puca purger šnicl špancir štenge šuster taubek viršle vura

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Introduction Uvod

Highlights Znamenitosti Tour Onee Ruta 1

Museums, Galleries & Recommended comm mmend e en end Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledii

Tour Two woo Ruta 2

Museums, um ms Gal G Gall Galleries a le & Recommended eccomm om end en nd Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi dii

hree ee Tour Three Ruta 3

Museums, eum umss Gal G Galle Galleries lle & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi

34 48

E Events Događanja D Index Popis

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SOUV SO UVEN UV E IR BOOKMARK EN BOO OO OKM K AR RK GIFT! GIFT GI FT!! SOUVENIR Poklon oznaka za knjigu!

Introduction

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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