Upper Town Zagreb Gornji grad 2011 by 528491

Introduction ction | Uvod

romance, there’s always Marija Jurić Zagorka, who is always ready for a conversation on any other theme, such as the literature of the time, or her journalistic or feminist endeavours. She was never one to hold back from describing the Zagreb of her time just as it was, warts and all, and you can be sure she won’t hold back now either.

Uvod

a biste upoznali neki grad, valja vam udahnuti barem dašak njegove povijesti, suočiti se s ljepotom starinskih fasada, prošetati njegovim kamenim pločnicima, popeti se u njegove kule, poslušati njegova crkvena zvona. Da biste shvatili kome ste došli u goste, treba se barem načas vratiti u prošlost, u doba junaštva, viteštva i romantike. A nigdje se u Zagrebu prošlost i sadašnjost ne prepleću tako gusto kao na Gornjem gradu. Čim s Ilice, gdje kraj vas prolazi moderni zagrebački plavi tramvaj, stupite na kockama popločanu Mesničku ulicu, uranjate u bajku. Bajku koja ima tisuću zavodljivih lica. Tako, primjerice, vrlo lako možete otputovati u 14. stoljeće, u anžuvinsko, zlatno doba zagrebačkog Gradeca, kada je u njemu stolovao herceg Stjepan Anžuvinac, vladar čija je žena Margareta bila bavarska princeza. No još je lakše osjetiti žmarce kada zastanete pred Markovom crkvom, gdje je u 16. stoljeću užarenom željeznom krunom okrunjen i okrutno pogubljen vođa Seljačke bune Matija Gubec, borac za prava obespravljenih kmetova i, mogli bismo reći, istinski revolucionar. Samo trenutak posvemašnje tišine bit će dovoljan da prizovete u sjećanje njegove riječi: “Doći će doba kad će moje oči gledati s neba na slobodan i sretan moj hrvatski puk!” Na Gradecu su od 17. stoljeća stolovali hrvatski banovi, a prvi ga je za svoje sjedište izabrao

A podno njega proteže se tunel Grič, sagrađen 1943. godine, koji vodi od Mesničke ulice do kamenim kockama popločene Radićeve. No Gradec usto krije, kažu, i čitav splet labirinta, tunela i katakombi iz 18. stoljeća, ako ne i starijih.

velikoj ljubavi iz 16. stoljeća, što ju je napisao August Šenoa (18381881), nikada nije naodmet čuti. Zagrebačke romantične i pustolovne zgode može vam prizvati u sjećanje i Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957), a s njom možete popričati i o koječemu drugome, recimo, o zagrebačkom društvenom i kulturnom životu prve polovice 20. stoljeća, o njezinu novinarskom radu ili feminističkom angažmanu. Ona se, uostalom, nikad nije libila Zagreb svoga vremena opisivati onakvim kakav je bio, pa neće, ne brinite se, to činiti ni sada.

Introduction ction | Uvod

Nikola Frankopan 1621. godine. Gornji je grad, dakle, mjesto gdje se pisala hrvatska politička povijest, no ujedno je središte zagrebačke i hrvatske kulture. Prvo zagrebačko kazalište, hrvatska himna, proglašenje hrvatskoga službenim jezikom, prve hrvatske opere, prva gimnazija i sveučilište, prva radijska postaja, sve je to vezano uz Gradec.

Gornjogradskim ulicama vode vas i vraćaju u prošle dane uz starogradske ljubavne pjesme ulični svirači – Zagrebački cinkuši i kvartet Potepuh. A dok oni sviraju, možda ugledate i poštara koji puše u rog kad nosi pisma, ili gradskog stražara s kraja 19. i početka 20. stoljeća, koji se brine za sigurnost, ali i društveni moral Zagrepčana. Reklo bi se da nam i danas takav treba! Tko zna, možda primijetite kako kraj vas, brz poput munje, juri kolporter, pa zastane načas, ne bi li vam prišapnuo kakvu lokalnu priču ili sočan trač koji u novinama nećete naći! U svakom slučaju, oči treba držati širom otvorene, da vam ne promakne kako Kamenitom ulicom ruku pod ruku šeću Dora Krupićeva i Pavle Gregorijanec, ljubavni par iz Zlatareva zlata, najpopularnijeg povijesnog romana o starom Zagrebu. Priču o

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If a loud bang makes you jump out of your boots on the strike of noon, don’t be afraid: that’s the Grič cannon. Today its sound marks midday, and the people of Zagreb and their guests still set their watches by it. Once upon a time, or so the story goes, the Grič cannon fired a shot from the Lotrščak tower on the strike of midday, a shot that landed in the Turkish encampment across the River Sava, smack bang in a plate of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha. Fearing this stronghold of crack shots, the Turks quickly abandoned any thoughts of attack and abandoned their siege. Prepadne li vas štogod točno u podne, točnije, snažan pucanj, ne bojte se, to puca Grički top! Danas se oglašava da označi podne, da Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti usklade svoje satove. Prema legendi, iz njega je s kule Lotrščak točno u podne ispaljen hitac na turski tabor koji se nalazio na drugoj strani rijeke Save – i to toliko precizno da je pogodio pijetla što ga je kuhar na pladnju nosio paši. Nakon toga Turci su odustali od opsade Zagreba i brzo se razbježali.

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The Grič Cannon Grički top

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Zagreb’s famous blue funicular railway! From the foot of the hill to the (rather small) summit in just 64 seconds! Friendly “drivers”, cheerful passengers and a very special Vranic panorama of Zagreb! poljana Zagrebačka, plava! Od podnožja do Strossmayerov o vrhunca za samo 64 sekunde! Čisti užitak! Ljubazni vozači, nasmijani suputnici i sasvim posebna panorama Zagreba s vrha.

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The Funicular Uspinjača

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With the most splendid Gothic portal in all Croatia, carved in Parler’s workshop, one of the most famous in the Middle Ages. However, if you haven’t the faintest idea who built what, just one look at the church’s picturesque roof with its coats of arms of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia and of the City of Zagreb will answer a lot of questions about Croatia and the Croatians. Crkva s figuralno najbogatijim gotičkim portalom u Hrvatskoj, izrađenim u Parlerovoj kiparskoj radionici, jednoj od najpoznatijih u srednjem vijeku. Sam pogled pak na slikoviti krov crkve s grbovima Trojedne Kraljevine Hrvatske, Dalmacije i Slavonije te grada Zagreba priziva hrvatsku političku prošlost i tako nudi odgovore na neka od vaših pitanja o Hrvatskoj i Hrvatima.

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St Mark’s Church Crkva sv. Marka

Highlights hlights | Znamenitosti

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The Stone Gate Kamenita vrata

One of the best-preserved monuments of Old Zagreb. This gate was part of Gradec’s fortifications, and the only gate that still stands today. In the passage behind the doorway is a chapel with a painting of Our Lady of Kamenita vrata – the patron saint of the City of Zagreb. The story of this painting dates back to 1731 when a terrible fire broke out in Gornji grad. The fire destroyed everything except the painting of Our Lady – only the wooden frame was burnt. The people of Zagreb hailed this as a miracle. Our Lady of Kamenita vrata watches over and protects them. This is why Kamenita vrata is still today a place of prayer and votive offerings to Our Lady.

Kamenita vrata spadaju među najbolje očuvane spomenike starog Zagreba. Dio su nekadašnjeg obrambenog sustava Gradeca i jedina vrata koja su se sačuvala do danas. U prolazu je kapelica sa slikom Majke Božje od Kamenitih vrata, zaštitnice grada Zagreba. Priča o njoj seže u godinu 1731, kada je na Gornjem gradu buknuo velik požar. Usred vatre našla se i slika Bogorodice, no plamen je nije uništio – izgorio je samo drveni okvir. Zagrepčani su prepoznali čudo. Otada Majka Božja od Kamenitih vrata nad njima bdije i štiti ih. Zato su Kamenita vrata i danas mjesto molitve i zavjeta.

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Vojničko junaštvo i odvažnost, a istodobno ponos i elegancija – sve to i još mnogo više doživite na smjeni straže koja se odvija pred Banskim dvorima. Markantni, odvažni i ozbiljni vojnici, uvježbani do savršenstva, pripadnici su pukovnije hrvatske lake konjice iz 17. stoljeća, poznate po junaštvu, ali i po svojoj odori. Oko vrata su im živopisni rupci zavezani u čvor, od kojih je nastala kravata, modni detalj bez kojeg je danas teško zamisliti modernog muškarca.

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The Zagreb The LLamplighters li h Zagrebački nažigači

These fellows have brought light to Gornji grad since 1863 when the city first was lit by gas lamps. There are two lamplighters who still today light and extinguish Gornji grad’s street lamps. Perhaps that’s why its lights seem so gentle, so mystical and romantic. Zagrebački nažigači donose svjetlost Gornjem gradu od 1863, kada je upaljena prva plinska svjetiljka. Dvojica nažigača i dan danas ručno pale i gase gornjogradske svjetiljke. Zasigurno su i zbog toga gornjogradska svjetla tako romantična, mistična i nježna.

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Tour One Ruta 1

Ilic

Before you are won over by the beauty, dignity and charm of Gornji grad, Zagreb’s historic heart, first of all you have to conquer it! That is, you have to physically climb up there, and there are several equally valid ways of doing that. Prije nego što Gornji grad svojom ljepotom, dostojanstvom i šarmom osvoji vas, vi ćete ipak prvo morati osvojiti njega. Morate se, naime, popeti na Gornji grad, a “napasti” ga možete s nekoliko strana.

The easiest way to take on the gentle gradient is to take the g Funicular Railway ! This, possibly the shortest railway in the world used as part of a public transport system, dates back to 1890. It started off as a steam engine which had, in the early days, a habit of breaking down, so the locals jokingly

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Tour One | Ruta 1

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referred to it as “the Failway”. The Failway was electrified in 1927 and has been chugging away happily ever since. The train departs every ten minutes and the journey takes a comfortable 64 seconds, just enough to whip out your camera and take your first panoramic photograph of Zagreb. But even

DONJI GRAD

without the photography session (if your hands are too full of bags of souvenirs), the Funicular is the quickest and most elegant way to arrive in Gornji grad. The special place that this unusual mode of transports occupies in the hearts of the citizens of Zagreb can be read from the fact that it has its own nursery rhyme. It goes like this:

“

Two ropes, two wheels Two boxes and two drivers, It climbs up and comes back, It climbs up and comes back, That’s the Funicular.

”

(And yes, before you say anything, it does sound better in Croatian!)

Tour One | Ruta 1

Najlakše je taj blagi uspon svladati uspinjačom ! Ta vjerojatno najkraća željeznica na svijetu namijenjena javnom gradskom prometu vozi od 1890. godine. U početku je bila na parni pogon i često se kvarila pa su je Zagrepčani duhovito i malčice podrugljivo nazvali “zapinjača”. A onda je 1927. elektrificirana i – evo je, vozi dan danas! Polazi svakih deset minuta, a vožnja traje ugodne 64 sekunde, upravo toliko da posegnete za svojim kamerama i fotoaparatima i snimite

prvu panoramsku fotografiju Zagreba. A da i ne snimite ništa, jer su vam ruke pune vrećica sa suvenirima, uspinjačom se najbrže i najelegantnije stiže na Gornji grad! Koliko je pak ona u Zagrebu omiljena, svjedoči i dječja pjesmica, čiji stihovi kažu:

“

Dva konopa, dva kotača dvije kutije i dva vozača Uspinje se pa se vraća, uspinje se pa se vraća eto to je uspinjača. Lotrščak Tower | Kula Lotrščak

”

Funicular Railway | Uspinjača

As soon as you step out of the Funicular the first thing see is g you’ll y the Lotrščak Tower , a beautiful watchtower offering a fantastic view over the city centre. There are often street musicians playing outside the tower. At first this tower was famous because of the bell which was installed in 1646. It rang every evening before the city gates were closed, and that’s why, probably because of all those for

whom the bell didn’t serve as fair warning, it earned nicknames such as “the brigand’s bell”, the “tinker’s toll”, the “drunkard’s ding-dong” or, in the vernacular of Old Zagreb, the “Lotriyasha”. And that’s how the tower got its name. In the 19th century, there was a coffee house and cake shop in the Lotrščak tower, and the first billiards table in Zagreb. The tower also

served as a fire lookout tower with a little hut built at the top for the watchman, which the old Zagrebarians jestingly called “the chicken coop”. However, a crucial day in the tower’s more recent history took place in January 1877, when the Grič cannon first fired a shot at noon. The tradition still survives today. Don’t let the cannon shot surprise or scare you!

Tour One | Ruta 1

Church of St Katherine | Crkva Sv Katarine

After the Lotrščak tower it’s very possible that your gaze will fall upon the Church of St Katherine . This was once a Dominican church, but the Jesuits built a new church in its place

Lotrščak Tower | Kula Lotrščak

Čim iskoračite iz uspinjače, prvo što ćete ugledati jest Kula Lotrščak , prekrasan vidikovac s kojeg puca prelijep pogled na Donji grad. Pred njom ćete najčešće zateći kakva uličnog svirača. Kula je prije, međutim, bila poznata po zvonu koje je postavljeno godine 1646. Zvonilo je svaku večer prije zatvaranja gradskih vrata, a nazivali su ga zvonom pustahija, pijanaca i lopova ili, na starozagrebačkom, “lotrijaša”. Tako je Lotrščak i dobio ime. U 19. stoljeću u njemu je bila kavana i slastičarnica te prvi biljarski stol u Zagrebu. Kula je služila i kao protupožarna promatračnica pa je u tu svrhu na njezinu vrhu sagrađen i mali toranj, koji su stari Zagrepčani u šali nazvali “kokošinjac”. Važan događaj u povijesti Lotrščaka zbio se u siječnju 1877, kada je Grički top pucnjem prvi put označio podne! Tradicija živi i danas. Ne dajte da vas u podne pucanj iz topa prepadne i iznenadi!

in 1620, with a monastery alongside. Zagreb’s nobility gave generously to aid in the church’s building. The church features a remarkable vaulted ceiling in the transept painted with scenes from the life of St Katherine. Nakon Lotrščaka lako je moguće da vam pogled spontano skrene prema crkvi Sv. Katarine . Nekada je na njezinu mjestu bila dominikanska crkva, a današnju crkvu i samostan dali su sagraditi Isusovci. Radovi su počeli godine 1620, a znatan je doprinos gradnji dalo i zagrebačko plemstvo bogatim donacijama. Posebnom je čini svod crkvene lađe oslikan prizorima iz života Sv. Katarine.

Tour One | Ruta 1

Church of St Katherine | Crkva Sv Katarine

Also worth a look is the Gornji grad Grammar School . It was founded by the Jesuits back in 1607, and the young people who fill Gornji grad’s cafés (only at break time, naturally) testify to the fact that the building still serves as a school today. Next to the grammar school is the Dverce Palace, at that time the Vraniczany-Buratti Palace. In this building the city authorities host delegations from around the world, from twin towns and cities, plying them with, among other things, the traditional Zagreb dish “štrukli”.

Pažnje je vrijedna i Gornjogradska gimnazija koju su davne 1607. godine osnovali Isusovci. Da u njoj i danas djeluje gimnazija svjedoči mnoštvo mladih koje puni gornjogradske kafiće, za odmora, naravno. Uz gimnaziju je i gradska palača Dverce, nekoć VraniczanyBuratti. U njoj zagrebački gradski poglavari rado ugošćuju delegacije iz cijelog svijeta, gradova prijatelja, pa ih, između ostalog, znaju počastiti i štruklama, tradicionalnim zagrebačkim jelom.

From left to right: a view of the funicular, Lotrščak Tower, Strossmayer Promenade, Grammar School and Gradec | S lijeva na desno: Pogled na uspinjaču, Kulu Lotrščak, Strossmayerovo šetalište, Gornjogradsku gimnaziju, i Gradec

Tour One | Ruta 1

St Mark’s Square | Markov trg

The search for the monumental and historically significant buildings of Gornji grad leads us inexorably to St Mark’s Square , where you’ll find Parliament and the seat of the Government. Gornji grad is the centre of political life in Croatia. The legislative and executive bodies sit here, from the elected Members of Parliament to the Prime Minister. It’s not unlikely that you’ll bump into them, so be prepared to say a cheery hello! Parliament lies on the eastern side of St Mark’s Square. The building is a mix of classical, neo-renaissance and art nouveau styles and is a listed building. It was designed by architect Lavoslav Kalda, and was completed in 1911. Before that, the Croatian Parliament, which has a history dating back to 1737, used to sit in buildings scattered around Gornji grad, including the palace which once stood at the spot where Parliament is today. The building used by the Croatian Government is on the western side of the square. This edifice is called Banski dvori. The building got its name thanks to the fact that between 1809 and 1918 it was home to the Croatian Bans – state dignitaries. This is where Ban Josip Jelačić, he for whom Zagreb’s main square is named, lived and died. This is also a protected building.

Potraga za monumentalnim gornjogradskim građevinama koje čuvaju povijesna sjećanja vodi do Markova trga , na kojem su zgrade Sabora i Vlade. Gornji je grad središte hrvatskog političkog života. Tu stoluju zakonodavna i predstavnička vlast, od naroda izabrani zastupnici i Vlada na čelu s predsjednicom. Moguće je da ih za svojeg obilaska sretnete, pa se s njima i pozdravite. Sabor se nalazi se na istočnoj strani Markova trga, a zgrada je građena u stilu klasicizma, neorenesanse i secesije i zaštićeni je spomenik kulture. Projektirao ju je arhitekt Lavoslav Kalda, a radovi na njoj završeni su 1911. godine. Prije toga Hrvatski sabor zasjedao je po raznim zgradama Gornjega grada pa i u baroknoj palači koja je bila na mjestu današnje sabornice. Sjedište Vlade Republike Hrvatske na zapadnoj je strani Markova trga, u Banskim dvorima, zgradi koja je od 1809. do 1918. bila dom hrvatskih banova, državnih dostojanstvenika. Tu je živio i umro i ban Josip Jelačić po kojemu je dobio ime i glavni, najveći zagrebački trg. I ta je barokna jednokatnica zaštićeni spomenik kulture.

Imate li sreće ili urođeni talent za planiranje pa se pred Banskim dvorima nađete subotom ili nedjeljom, za državnog praznika ili u kojoj drugoj svečanoj prigodi i to točno u podne, bit ćete u prilici vidjeti atraktivnu smjenu straže Kravat pukovnije. Ceremonija u kojoj sudjeluju markantni, besprijekorno uvježbani vojnici oduzet će vam dah. Zateknete li se pak na Gornjem gradu u subotu između 10 i 12 sati, svojom će vas svirkom razgaliti gornjogradski svirači...

Tour One On | Ruta 1

If you have done your planning well, or strike it lucky, so that you find yourself in front of Banski dvori at noon at the weekend, on a public holiday or other special occasion, you’ll witness the attractive Changing of the Guard of the Cravat Regiment. The maneouvres of the striking soldiers, drilled to perfection, will take your breath away. So, if you chance to meet them, will the Gornji grad musicians with their songs. The Musicians play in Gornji grad on Saturdays between 10 a.m. and 12 noon.

Did you know that the street lamps in Gornji grad and Kaptol are gas lamps p which are lit everyy evening by lamplighters ? Zagreb glittered in the glow of gas lamps for the first time in 1863 and they are still working today. Every morning, as soon as the dawn paints the sky pink, and every evening, as soon as dusk falls, two lamplighters light (or put out) the lamps, all 217 of them, a job which takes about two hours. If you’d like to see them in action, all you have to do is linger around a lamp somewhere around 18:00. As soon as the light fades along come the lamplighters so that Gornji grad can shine in the gentle glow of the gas lights.

Znate li da Gornji grad i Kaptol imaju plinsku uličnu rasvjetu i da svjetiljke pale nažigači ? Plinske svjetiljke zasjale su u Zagrebu još davne 1863. godine i, evo ih, još su tu i danas! Jer u predvečerje, kad se počne spuštati mrak, dva nažigača pale, a ujutro, čim zora zarudi, gase 217 plinskih lampi. Za taj im posao treba oko 2 sata. Želite li ih vidjeti u akciji, samo se valja pritajiti podno kakve svjetiljke, negdje oko 18 sati. S prvim sumrakom stižu i nažigači, kako bi vas obasjala nježna gornjogradska svjetlost.

Od tako zacrtana, temeljita “osvajanja” Gornjega grada zasigurno ćete ogladnjeti. No to ne znači da morate i ostati gladni. Baš naprotiv! Popis restorana na str. 50.

Summer art colony | likovna kolonija

Statue of M. J. Zagorka at Tkalčićeva Street | Zagorkin kip u Tkalčićevoj ulici

Later, when your meal has settled, you might take a gentle stroll along Strossmayerovo šetalište (the Strossmayer Promenade), though the shade of the Alley of Horse Chestnuts. Hand in hand, just like the Zagreb families of times past, who with their customary bows would promenade here. There was once a small music pavilion here where Sunday concerts were held. Nowadays in the summertime there is a summer art colony (info on page 38) which you are welcome to join in. Maybe you’ll choose as a motif for your painting a detail from the novel “The Witch of Grič” by the writer Marija Jurić Zagorka. Just as today the whole globe is conquered by novels, films and vampire cartoons, Zagorka’s novel about the persecution of a so-called witch offered equal intrigue, and is full of mysterious doings in the underground walkways of old Grič. The novel was dramatised and staged in the Croatian National Theatre on 18 June 1918.

A onda, kad Vam se hrana slegne, lagano se zaputite Strossmayerovim šetalištem , alejom divljih kestena koja nudi ugodan hlad. Ruku pod ruku, poput starih zagrebačkih građanskih obitelji koje su se tuda, uz obavezni naklon prolaznicima, šetale u 19. stoljeću. Nekada je tu bio i mali glazbeni paviljon u kojem su se nedjeljom održavali koncerti, a danas ćete ljeti zateći likovnu koloniju (podaci na str. 38) kojoj se možete lako pridružiti. Tko zna, možda kao motiv svoje slike odaberete neki slikoviti detalj iz romana Grička vještica Marije Jurić Zagorke. Kao što danas svijet osvajaju romani, filmovi i stripovi o vampirima, tako je nekoć popularan bio njezin roman o progonu vještica i misterioznim zbivanjima u podzemnim hodnicima podno Gradeca. On je i dramski uprizoren, a premijera je bila u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu 18. lipnja 1918.

The Strossmayer Promenade | Strossmayerovo šetalište

Tour One | Ruta 1

From all of this, such a thorough “conquest” of Gornji grad, it’s easy to get hungry. But that doesn’t mean that you have to stay hungry. On the contrary! A list of restaurants is on page 50.

The Museum of Broken Relationships, on the ground floor of the Kulmer Palace on St Katherine’s Square will soften your heart, make you smile and leave you breathless. This is the only museum in the world where the exhibits show how a breakup need not only mean heartache. Because, when you lose yourself among the items donated by the “unlucky” lovers, full of memories of past loves, you’ll understand that every love affair, even if it ends unhappily, can be witty, fun and a little crazy. The Museum of Broken Relationships has made a world tour, has become the talk of the global village, and has come home and settled into Gornji grad. Its doors are open both to visitors and to those who still have at home mementoes of their broken relationships, things just waiting for a museum to give them a new lease of life. A new life full of new relationships and new stories about love.

Muzej prekinutih veza, smješten u prizemlju

Tour One | Ruta 1

The Strossmayer Promenade | Strossmayerovo šetalište

Museums, Galleries & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi

Kulmerove palače na Katarinskom trgu, ostavit će vas bez daha, nasmijati i raznježiti. To je jedini muzej na svijetu koji svojim eksponatima dokazuje kako prekid veze ne mora biti samo bolan. Jer kad zaronite među predmete koje su zaljubljeni ostavili kao uspomenu na svoje bivše ljubavi, shvatit ćete kako svaka ljubavna priča, pa bila ona i nesretna, može biti duhovita, zabavna i otkvačena. Muzej prekinutih veza obišao je cijeli svijet pa se vratio kući i skrasio na Gornjem gradu. Vrata su mu otvorena za posjet, ali i za sve one koji još uvijek čuvaju kakav podsjetnik na svoje raskinute veze koji žele darovati, kakav izložak koji samo čeka da bude pohranjen u muzeju, kako bi lakše krenuli dalje u život. U neke nove veze, u neke nove velike priče o ljubavi.

The Marton Museum also has its home in the late baroque Kulmer Palace, only separated from the Museum of Broken Relationships by a door. The Museum contains the impressive collection of the private collector Veljko Marton, a man dedicated to the tradition of long years of careful collecting of valuable artworks. The Marton Museum is a Maria Theresa bust | bista Marije Terezije

Tour One | Ruta 1

Muzej Marton također se smjestio u kasnobaroknoj gornjogradskoj palači Kulmer i samo ga vrata dijele od Muzeja prekinutih veza. A u muzeju je pohranjena impozantna zbirka privatnog kolekcionara Veljka Martona, čovjeka odana dugogodišnjem brižnom prikupljanju

vrijednih umjetnina. Muzej Marton spomenik je ljudskom trudu i kolekcionarskoj strasti. Porculan, staklo, slikarstvo 19. stoljeća i srebro čine zbirku koja je potvrdu izvrsnosti dobila i izvan domovine, u Parizu, Beču i Veneciji. To je mamac kojem malo tko može odoljeti.

The Marton Museum | Muzej Marton

monument to human endeavour and the collector’s passion. Porcelain, glass, 19th century paintings, Chinese porcelain and silver, the collection has gained recognition for its excellence in Paris, Vienna and Venice. An irresistible temptation.

The Croatian Natural History Museum in Demetrova ulica,

The Croatian Natural History Museum | Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej

with two million exhibits, is an unmissable stop for all curious types. Its collection of bones and its exhibition on the life of the Neanderthals, as revealed at an important dig at the nearby town of Krapina, are particularly impressive. Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej u Demetrovoj ulici, s dva milijuna izložaka, nezaobilazna je stanica za sve znatiželjne, a posebno oduševljava zbirkom ostataka kostiju i kulture krapinskih neandertalaca.

3, has paintings and sculpture from the 16th to the 20th centuries on show, as well as various items of artwork and antique furniture from the 18th to the 20th centuries. There is also a valuable library with about 2500 books.

Tour One | Ruta 1

The Collection of Dr. Ivan Ribar and Cate Dujšin Ribar, at Demetrova

Zbirka dr. Ivana Ribara i Cate Dujšin Ribar u Demetrovoj 3 sadrži slike i skulpture iz razdoblja od 16. do 20. stoljeća te različite predmete umjetničkog obrta i namještaj nastao od 18. do 20. stoljeća. Tu je i vrijedna biblioteka s oko 2.500 knjiga. Photo: | Fotografija: MGZ

The Gallery of the Lotrščak Tower has exhibitions of photograpy between April and July, entitled “First Shoot” (Prvo okidanje).

Galerija Kula Lotrščak od travnja do srpnja nudi izložbe fotografija pod The Secrets of Grič | Tajne Griča

nazivom “First shoot “(“Prvo okidanje”).

The evening interactive tour

The Secrets of Grič reveals the secret legends of old Zagreb. The tour takes place from May to October, every Friday and Saturday. Your guide will await you in a black hooded cloak, holding a sign saying “Secrets of Grič”, on the corner of Mesnička and Ilica at 21:00. He’ll take you on a night-time encounter with Gornji grad’s secrets. Call 091 461 56 78 for reservations. Tickets cost 80kn.

Noćna interaktivna tura Tajne Griča otkriva skrivene legende starog Zagreba. Tragom legendi kreće se od svibnja do listopada, petkom i subotom, kad vas u 21:00 sat na križanju Mesničke i Ilice dočekuje vodič s crnim plaštem i kapuljačom i natpisom “Tajne Griča”, te vas vodi u noćno razotkrivanje gornjogradskih tajni. Rezervacije na broj 091 461 56 78. Cijena: 80 kuna.

Tour Two | Ruta 2

Tour Two Ruta 2 Another way to conquer Gornji grad is to approach via Radićeva ulica, which climbs all the way up to Kamenita vrata. Long ago, this was the main thoroughfare and gateway to the city.

of Zagreb. This is where the people of Zagreb come to pray and light candles for the health of their loved ones. The altar is black, and on top of it, alongside the portrait of Our Lady, are two white statues of St Peter and St Paul, and four figures of angels. The space for the altar is fenced of by an artisticallyworked grille, a beautiful example of the blacksmith’s art in the baroque period. Kamenita ulica leads from Kamenita vrata to St Mark’s Square. Be careful not to trip over the chain stretched decoratively between the façades of the buildings and the terraces in front, a chain which apparently comes from the HMS

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captivating charm to “The Goldsmith’s Gold”, a novel by Croatian writer August Šenoa. Šenoa’s novel is today a set text for schoolchildren. When we pass through Kamenita vrata, on the left we can see a statue of Dora Krupićeva, the heroine of “The Goldsmith’s Gold”, a young woman whose father, Mr Krupić, was entrusted with the keeping of the keys of this very stone gate. The statue is the work of sculptor Ivan Kerdić. What really makes Kamenita vrata special is the chapel with the painting of Our Lady of Kamenita vrata, the patron saint of the City

Visoka

Kamenita vrata is the only surviving entrance gate to Gornji grad. In 1647, at the time of the plague, all gates into the city were closed except this one. The importance of this gate meant that only the most respectable citizens were chosen to guard it. Not even Marija Jurić Zagorka, Croatia’s first female journalist, could resist writing about Kamenita vrata in her popular novels. After all, Gornji grad was often the scene of the romantic entanglements in her books. Similarly, the atmosphere of Gornji grad at the turn of the century lends a

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Tour Two | Ruta 2

Kamenita vrata

Victory, probably from the time of the Battle of Trafalgar. It is thought that the chain was found by passionate amateur archaeologist Laval Nugent, an Irish-born Field Marshal of the Austrian army. Nugent made a deep impact in Croatia serving in the ranks of the Austrian army during the Napoleonic Wars. Nugent adored antiques, and he amassed a significant collection of artworks and archaeological finds. The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb holds the greater part of his collection.

ključeva upravo tih gradskih vrata. Skulptura je rad kipara Ivana Kerdića. Ono što ta vrata uistinu čini posebnima jest kapelica sa slikom Majke Božje od Kamenitih vrata, zaštitnice grada Zagreba, gdje Kamenita ulica

Tour Two | Ruta 2

Kamenita vrata

Kamenita vrata danas su jedina očuvana vrata na Gornjem gradu. U vrijeme kuge 1647. godine sva su vrata bila zatvorena osim njih, a koliku su važnost imala svjedoči podatak da su se za njihove čuvare birali najugledniji građani. Kamenita vrata nije u svojim popularnim romanima zaobišla ni Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957), prva hrvatska novinarka. Gornji je grad, naime, često je bio kulisa romantičnih zapleta u njezinim knjigama. Njegovu je atmosferu u 16. stoljeću dočarao i hrvatski pisac August Šenoa (1838-1881) u romanu Zlatarevo zlato, koji je danas školska lektira. Prođete li Kamenitim vratima i zaputite se Kamenitom ulicom, s lijeve strane ugledat ćete kip Dore Krupićeve, junakinje Šenoina romana, djevojke čiji je otac, zlatar Krupić, bio zadužen za čuvanje

Zagrepčani mole i pale svijeće za sebe i svoje bližnje. Na crnom se oltaru uz Marijinu sliku ističu bijeli kipovi Sv. Petra i Pavla te četiriju anđela. Prostor oltara odijeljen je umjetnički kovanom rešetkom, koja je jedan od najljepših primjeraka barokne kovačke umjetnosti u Zagrebu. Od Kamenitih vrata do Trga Sv. Marka put vodi preko Kamenite

ulice. Pazite jedino da s desne strane ulice ne zapnete za lanac razapet između pročelja zgrade i obližnje terase, koji navodno potječe s broda HMS Victory, najvjerojatnije iz doba Trafalgarske bitke. Vjeruje se da je lanac našao austrijski general Laval Nugent, pasionirani arheolog amater, koji je ostavio traga u hrvatskoj povijesti služeći u postrojbama austrijske vojske za napoleonskih ratova. Nugent je volio istraživati starine te je prikupio bogatu kolekciju umjetnina i arheoloških iskopina. Velik dio njegove zbirke čuva se u Arheološkom muzeju u Zagrebu.

Pharmacy in Kamenita Street

Right by Kamenita y vrata you’ll see the oldest pharmacy in Zagreb, mentioned as early as the 14th century. You can still see the original furniture and medicine bottles. Outside there’s a plaque telling us that in 1399 the greatgrandson of Dante Alighieri (writer of “The Divine Comedy”) lived here and owned the pharmacy. Tik do Kamenitih vrata nalazi se i najstarija ljekarna u Zagrebu, koja se spominje već u nekim dokumentima iz 14. stoljeća. U njoj ćete još uvijek zateći stari namještaj i ljekarničke bočice, a na pročelju je i spomen-ploča koja podsjeća da je tu 1399. godine živio i ljekarnicu imao praunuk Dantea Alighierija.

Ljekarna u Kamenitoj

Tour Two | Ruta 2

St Mark's Square | Markov trg

And since yyou’re here,, there’s no way you can or should miss St Mark's Square , the heart of Gornji grad, with the Church of St Mark at its core. It is said that the church was built by Venetian craftsmen. Its most valuable part is the gothic south portal with 15 statues in 11 shallow niches. At one time, a statue of St Christopher and of the Virgin Mary and Jesus stood here, and underneath St Mark, patron saint of Venice and the lion of St Mark. On either side the twelve apostles were arrayed. Today a statue of Christ on the cross stands on the main altar. This is the work of Ivan Meštrović, one of Croatia’s great sculptors. Also of note are the frescoes depicting themes from Croatian history by the painter Jozo Kljaković. The Croatian Bans took their oaths at the altar of St Mark’s Church. On the square in front, there once used to stand the “Pranger”, the city’s pillar of shame. In the Middle Ages, Zagreb folk who had broken the law would be tied up and humiliated here. According to legend, this is the spot where Matija Gubec endured his coronation as king of the Croatian peasants with a red-hot crown. Other sources claim that he was executed in a forest on the western side of Gradec. However, there is no doubt about the fact that on this square, for centuries, women who were accused of being witches were burned at the stake. It was from St Mark’s Square, from a courtyard building at number 9, that the first Croatian radio station hit the airwaves with the national anthem. That was in 1926. Hodate li ovom rutom, ne možete i ne smijete zaobići Markov trg , središte Gornjeg grada, kojim dominira crkva Sv. Marka. Gradili su je navodno mletački majstori. Njezina najveća umjetnička vrijednost jest južni gotički portal u kojem je u jedanaest plitkih niša smješteno 15 kipova. Nekad je u sredini stajao Kristov kip i Marija s Isusom i ispod njih zaštitnik Sv. Marko s lavom, dok je s obje strane bilo razmješteno12 apostola. Na glavnom oltaru danas stoji kip raspeta Krista, djelo Ivana Meštrovića, a u crkvi se nalaze i freske slikara Joze Kljakovića s temama iz hrvatske povijesti. Pred oltarom Markove crkve zakletvu su polagali hrvatski banovi. A na trgu ispred crkve nekad se nalazio i Pranger, gradski stup srama, na koji su se u srednjem vijeku vezivali Zagrepčani koji su se ogriješili o zakon. Legenda kaže da je baš na tom trgu za Seljačke bune 1573. užarenom krunom okrunjen vođa hrvatskih seljaka Matija Gubec. Neki drugi izvori tvrde da je pogubljen u šumi sa zapadne strane Gradeca. S Markova se trga također, u dvorišnoj zgradi kuće na broju 9, oglasila godine 1926. nacionalnom himnom prva hrvatska radijska postaja.

brewery was, you’ll find the oldest Zagreb inn, “Pod starim krovovima” (“Under the old roofs”), which dates back to 1830. This is where famous Croatian writers and poets would meet to talk about politics, sport, women, art and all sorts of other stuff. It was here that a good part of the cult Croatian film “Tko pjeva zlo ne misli” was filmed. The film, by director Krešo Golik, is a romantic comedy with singing, and the title means “He Who Sings Thinks No Evil.” The scene where

Mnoštvo je uličica koje vas s Trga Sv. Marka vode u dalje istraživanje Gornjega grada. Krenete li Basaričekovom , vidjet ćete gdje je bila prva pivovara u Zagrebu i druga u Hrvatskoj. Posve je razumljivo da se ta ulica nekada zvala Pivarska, kao i to da je bila poprište veselih zabava. A gdje je najstarija pivovara, tu je i najstarija zagrebačka gostionica Pod starim

krovovima, otvorena godine 1830. U njoj su se okupljali i uz čašicu o politici, sportu, ženama, umjetnosti i koječemu drugome raspravljali poznati hrvatski pisci. Tu se snimao i slavni hrvatski film, odnosno “ljubavna komedija s pjevanjem” Kreše Golika Tko pjeva zlo ne misli. Scena u kojoj Franjo Šafranek šalje sina Pericu k Žnidaršiću “po još jednu litricu” antologijska je scena

Franjo Šafranek sends his son Perica to Mr Žnidaršić for yet another litre of wine is one of the classics of Croatian cinema. Golik’s film is one of the loveliest works dedicated to the Zagreb of the end of the 1960s. Žnidaršić kept the inn right here at Basaričekova 9, while the scenes in the Šafraneks’ yard were filmed at number 11. So we’re more than happy to report that, having closed for renovation in 2008, the inn is now open and fully renovated.

Inn | Gostionica Pod starim krovovima

Tour Two | Ruta 2

There is a maze of tiny streets that lead you from St Mark’s Square to further adventures in Gornji grad. g If you y set off along g Basaričekova ulica, you’ll see the site of the first brewery in Zagreb (the second one in Croatia). It is therefore eminently reasonable that this street was once called Pivarska ulica (Brewer’s Street), as is the fact that as long ago as 1721 there were regular jollifications in the Gornji grad brewery at number 9. And there where the oldest

hrvatskoga filma, a Golikov film jedna od najljepših posveta Zagrebu s kraja 1960tih. Žindaršićeva je gostionica bila baš tu u Basaričekovoj 9, dok su scene u dvorištu Šafranekovih snimljene u kući na broju 11. Stoga je više nego dobra vijest da je, nakon što je zatvorena 2008. godine, obnovljena gostionica ponovno javnosti otvorila svoja vrata.

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Croatian History Museum | Hrvatski povijesni muzej

Amadeo Scene | Scena Amadeo

Definitelyy worth seeing is the building of the Croatian Natural History Museum . Duke Antun Pejačević (1749-1802) built a palace with a large ballroom in Demetrova ulica. There has been a poster found advertising a performance here of Giovanni Paisello’s opera I filosofi immaginarii by the Barbara Kapf company from Graz on 22 January 1799. Following Pejaćević’s death, the Palace was bought by the King’s chamberlain, the great county prefect Duke Antun Amadé de Várkonyi (1757-1835), with, it is supposed, money from the bishop and Ban’s deputy Maksimilijan Vrhovac (1752-1827). From that time on there is evidence here of the existence of the Amadeo Theatre, which played an exceptionally important role in the cultural life of Zagreb. Vrijedi svakako vidjeti i zgradu Hrvatskog prirodoslovnog muzeja . Riječ je o nekadašnjoj palači s velikom plesnom dvoranom u Demetrovoj ulici, koju je dao sagraditi grof Antun Pejačević (1749-1802). U njoj je, sudeći prema sačuvanom plakatu, 22. siječnja 1799. družina Barbare Krapf iz Graca izvela operu Umišljeni filozofi Giovannija Paisiella. Poslije Pejačevićeve smrti palaču je kupio kraljevski komornik i veliki župan zagrebački grof Antun Amadé de Várkonyi (1757-1835) i to, pretpostavlja se, novcem biskupa i banskog namjesnika Maksimilijana Vrhovca (1752-1827). Od tada se govori o Amadéovu kazalištu, koje je imalo iznimno važnu ulogu u zagrebačkom kulturnom životu 19. stoljeća.

At Matoševa 9 you can see the baroque Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace, today the Croatian History Museum.

U Matoševoj 9 nalazi se barokna palača Vojković-Oršić-Rauch u kojoj je danas Hrvatski povijesni muzej.

After a good walk and plenty of sightseeing, it’s always wise to have lunch in a nearby restaurant. There are plenty of galleries with art for sale, so you don’t have to leave empty-handed. See the list on page 50. Između šetnji i razgledavanja, mudro je ručati u jednom od restorana. Da ne biste otišli kući bez ikakva suvenira, svratite u koju od brojnih prodajnih galerija. Popis na str. 50.

Tour Two | Ruta 2

I. Rabuzin

Museums, Galleries & Recommended Sights Muzeji, galerije i razgledi The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art – the first of I. Generalić

its kind in the world. The Museum’s collection consists of 5000 artworks. Its permanent collection features about 80 iconic paintings and sculptures by some 20 of the greatest naïve artists.

Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti prvi je muzej naivne umjetnosti u svijetu. Muzejski fundus čini oko 2000 umjetnina. Stalni postav sadržava, između ostalog, oko 80 antologijskih slika i skulptura dvadesetak klasika naive.

The Croatian History Museum – a collection of national and historic significance. The Museum also preserves the spirit of Gornji grad in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries when dances, concerts and theatre productions were held here for the enjoyment of the cream of Croatian society. U Hrvatskom

povijesnom muzeju pohranjena je povijesna nacionalna građa. Muzej ujedno čuva i nekadašnji duh društvenog života zagrebačke elite koja se tu okupljala na plesovima, koncertima i kazališnim predstavama tijekom 18, 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća.

The Croatian History Museum | Hrvatski povijesni muzej

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keeps sculptures, drawings, folders full of lithographs and other items owned by the great sculptor Ivan Meštrović. This worldacclaimed master lived in Gornji grad between 1922 and 1942, at Mletačka 8.

The Meštrović Atelier | Atelijer Meštrović

I Rabuzin

The Meštrović Atelier –

Atelijer Meštrović čuva skulpture, crteže, mape s litografijama i druge predmete znamenitog kipara Ivana Meštrovića. Taj je umjetnik svjetskoga ugleda stanovao na adresi današnjeg muzeja, u Mletačkoj 8, od 1922. do 1942. godine.

The Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Basaričekova 22) – has an exhibition showing part of the opus of Croatian naïve art.

Galerija Mijo Kovačić smještena je u Basaričekovoj 22, a njezin postav sadržava dio korpusa hrvatske naivne umjetnosti.

Zagreb Inside – offers two themed sightseeing programmes, one called “Women of Zagreb”, the other called “Do You Speak Croatian?” The fist route, led by an expert guide, will acquaint you with the women of Zagreb who have woven a part of themselves into the history of their city. The second route is a treat for all those who’d like to learn a few words of Croatian, to discover the old Croatian alphabet or simply find out how

Croatian people greet each other. If you’d like to impress your friends, family and neighbours when you get back home, this is the tour for you! Zagreb Inside nudi dva tematska programa razgledavanja grada, jedan pod nazivom “Ženska strana Zagreba”, a drugi naslovljen “Do You Speak Croatian?” Šetnja prvom rutom uz stručno vodstvo turističkih vodiča upoznat će vas sa Zagrepčankama koje su u povijest svoga

grada utkale dio sebe. Druga ruta poslastica je za inozemne goste koji žele naučiti koju hrvatsku riječ, upoznati se s hrvatskim pismom ili jednostavno saznati kako se Hrvati pozdravljaju.

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

Tour Three Ruta 3 We have travelled to Gornji grad on the Funicular, we’ve walked up along historic Radićeva street, so all that’s left is to climb the steps, the steps known as Zakmardijeve stube. Putovali smo na Gornji grad uspinjačom, hodali Radićevom ulicom, pa je vrijeme da se na njega popnemo Zakmardijevim stubama.

The steps p “Zakmardijeve stube” were built in 1911 and lead up to the large plateu from which you can enjoy one of the finest views over Zagreb’s ecclesiastical centre, Kaptol, the Cathedral, the Church of St Mary and Donji grad (the modern-day city centre). Zakmardijeve stube projektirane su godine 1911. i vode na plato s kojeg se pruža jedan od najljepših panoramskih pogleda na Kaptol, zagrebačku katedralu, crkvu Sv. Marije i Donji grad.

If climbing all those steps has tired you out a little, why not sit down on one of the benches on the delightful promenade Strossmayerovo y šetalište (known fondly as “Štros” ), right next to the statue of Antun Gustav Matoš. The statue of this great Croatian writer was created in 1978 by renowned scupltor Ivan Kožarić. Matoš is always here to listen to you and keep you company, and it’s just a matter of time before the moustachioed fellow speaks back to you. Učini li vam se nakon uspona da je stuba bilo previše i hodajući ste se umorili, predahnite na Strossmayerovu šetalištu , na klupi uz Antuna Gustava Matoša (1873-1914). Skulpturu velikog hrvatskog književnika izradio je godine 1978. kipar Ivan Kožarić (r. 1921). Matoš je uvijek tu da vas sasluša, a samo je pitanje dana kad će se dogoditi čudo pa će stari brko i progovoriti.

Your walk now leads you y through g Gradec , where there was once an old mint. It was here, between 1260 and 1384, that the silver coins of the Croatian bans and kings were minted.

Šetnja vas zatim vodi preko Gradeca na kojem se nalazila kovnica novca. Tu su se od 1260. do 1384. kovali srebrnjaci hrvatskih banova i kraljeva.

Muzej Grada Zagreba

Bas arič eko va

If you yourself have any coins in p , theyy will come in handy your pockets, 29.1 0.19 on Jesuit Square , where you 18. can throw them into the fountain called “The Markov Fisherman and the Snake”, trg GORNJI a work by sculptor Simeon Kam G R A D Roksandić from 1908. eni 10 ta Opposite the fountain Kamenita you’ll find the Klovićevi vrata V dvori Gallery , once a itez ovi ćev Jesuit monastery. It is a made of two Jezuitski historically and trg Katarinin architectually trg Crkva distinct parts: the sv. Katarine monastery, built in Strossm ay ero the 17th century, vo Gradec and a medieval še ta liš tower, an te integral part of Krvav the monastery most i and barely visible today. je ve The tower was stu be built in the

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

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middle of the 13th century, and judging by the thickness of its walls and its square shape it had the same status as the other Gornji grad towers, Lotrščak, the Priest’s Tower and the tower of Kamenita vrata. Klovićevi dvori

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

A kakav god novčić u džepu imali, dobro će vam doći na Jezuitskom trgu , da ga bacite za sreću u fontanu Ribar sa zmijom, djelo Simeona Roksandića nastalo 1908. Nasuprot fontane je zgrada Galerije Klovićevi dvori , u kojoj se nekad nalazio isusovački samostan. Sastoji se od dva povijesno i arhitektonski različita djela: samostana iz 17. stoljeća i srednjovjekovne gradske kule, ugrađene u zgradu samostana, koja se danas jedva primjećuje. Kula je sagrađena sredinom 13. stoljeća, a po debljini i kvadratnom tlocrtu istovjetna je drugim gornjogradskim kulama: Lotrščaku, Popovu tornju i kuli Kamenitih vrata.

It’s not only ancient history that was made in Gornji grad. Croatian rock was born here too, in a club called Lapidarij in Habdelićeva ulica. The “Lap” was extremely popular, a cult night club during the golden age of the Yugoslav New Wave. Here, between 1977 and 1983, legendary concerts were held, and it’s interesting to note that the music of the bands of that time was

labelled “trash” by the authorities, which meant that they had to pay extra taxes, making their music more expensive to buy. The Lapidarij club was and still is the epitome of everything good about the New Wave. Na Gornjem gradu nije se pisala samo starija povijest Zagreba. Rađala se tu u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća rock glazba – i to u klubu Lapidarij , smještenom u

Habdelićevoj ulici. Popularni Lap, u kojem su se od 1977. do 1983. održavali legendarni koncerti, bio je kultno mjesto i zaštitni znak jugoslavenskog Novog vala. Zanimljivo je da je ta glazba dobila od ondašnjih vlasti etiketu šunda, zbog čega su njezini autori i izvođači morali plaćati državi dodatni porez pa su im ploče u trgovinama imale veću cijenu od ostalih.

The Zagreb Observatory is also in Opatička ulica, housed in the “Priest’s Tower” (Popov toranj) which is at number 22. The tower was restored in 1903, and the observatory celebrates its 108th anniversary this year. Na Popovu tornju (Opatička 22) nalazi se Zvjezdarnica Zagreb . Otvorena je godine 1903. i ove godine slavi 108 godina postojanja.

| Ruta 3 Tour Three h hree Zagreb Observatory | Zvjezdarnica Zagreb

Opatička ulica dobila d je ime po o opaticama Sv. Klare ili klarisama, koje su imale samostan u današnjem Muzeju grada Zagreba. Taj je samostan bio na glasu po redovnicama plemenita roda, odnosno pripadnicama najviših društvenih slojeva. Naime, u 17. i 18. stoljeću nije bilo zagrebačke plemićke obitelji koja nije barem jednu kćer poslala u samostan Sv. Klare. Opatičku ulicu krase i tri vrlo lijepe barokne palače: palača Juršić (Opatička 2), palača Rauch-Sermage (Opatička 6) te palača Bužan (Opatička 8). Današnji Hrvatski institut za povijest u Opatičkoj 10 smješten je u palači sagrađenoj sredinom 19. stoljeća za plemićku obitelj Vojkffy-Paravić. Zgradu krasi zlatna dvorana te galerija u kojoj su izložena reprezentativna djela hrvatskog slikarstva i kiparstva.

Croatian Institute of History | Hrvatski povijesni institut

Opatička ulica (Nun Street) was named after the nuns of the Convent of St Clare, a Clarissan order who lived in the building where today’s Museum of the City of Zagreb is housed. The convent was renowned because of its nuns who came from the highest social classes: it was joined by noblewomen and the daughters of knights. In the 17th and 18th centuries there was hardly a nobleman who didn’t send at least one of his daughters to St Clare’s Convent. Opatička ulica is also endowed with three very beautiful baroque palaces: the Jurić Palace (Opatička 2), the Rauch-Sermage Palace (Opatička 6), and the Bužan Palace (Opatička 8). Today’s Croatian Institute of History at Opatička 10 is also a former palace, built for the VojffyParavić noble family. The palace has a golden hall, and a gallery with some of the greatest works of Croatian art and sculpture.

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

Illyrian Square | Ilirski trg

Museum of the City of Zagreb | Muzej grada Zagreba

In the catacombs of the former convent which is today part of the Museum of the City of Zagreb there is a restaurant called Stara Vura. The catacombs are the work of the famous, internationally-acclaimed architect Viktor Kovačić, who was posthumously awarded the Grand Prix at the international arts and crafts fair in Paris against stiff competion from all over the world, including names such as Auguste Perret, Le Corbusier, Bruno Taut and Konstantin Melnikov. U katakombama bivšeg samostana koji je danas dio Muzeja grada Zagreba nalazi se restoran Stara vura. Za današnji izgled katakombi zaslužan je znameniti hrvatski arhitekt Viktor Kovačić (1874-1924), o čijem svjetskom ugledu svjedoči i posthumno mu dodijeljena glavna nagrada na glasovitoj pariškoj izložbi za umjetnost i obrt (1925), na kojoj su svojim projektima sudjelovali, među ostalima, August Perret, Le Corbusier, Bruno Taut i Konstantin Meljnikov.

At the crossroads of Opatička, Jurjevska j and Radićeva is today’s Illyrian Square . It was once called Statue Square: there was a large stone cross on the square, but in 1895 the great architect and urban planner Herman Bollé built a neogothic chapel and statue in the middle of the square. A gentleman named Matija Pallain, in his day job the manager of the post office at Opatička 20, opened a café and cake shop here called the Palainovka. And it’s still here today – the Palainovka Coffee House, designed by the architect Bartol Felbinger. It is said that this is the oldest coffee house south of Vienna: coffee has been drunk here since 1847. Na mjestu gdje se križaju Opatička, Jurjevska i Radićeva ulica današnji je Ilirski trg . Prije se zvao Kipni trg i na njemu se nalazio veliki kameni križ, a 1895. na sredini je sagrađena neogotička kapelica s kipom, koju je projektirao ugledni urbanist i arhitekt Herman Bollé. Matija Pallain, nekadašnji upravitelj pošte u Opatičkoj ulici 20, na trgu je otvorio slastičarnicu i kavanu Palainovka, za koju je nacrte navodno izradio arhitekt Bartolomej Felbinger. Tu kavanu, jednu od najstarijih i najpopularnijih u Zagrebu, u kojoj se još od 1847. ispija kava, možete posjetiti i danas!

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

10 The crowning point of Ćirilmetodska ulica is today’s City Hall . There was once an old theatre here in which the famous opera diva Milka Trnina started her career, appearing in 1882 in Verdi’s Un ballo in maschera. The theatre in Gornji grad was built thanks to the merchant Kristofor Stanković, who won 30.000 florins in the Vienna lottery and donated them for the construction of the first theatre building. Today “Just Married” couples sign up for eternal love in the registrar’s office in the City Hall. Inside the building you can also visit the Kristofor Stanković Gallery (opening hours: 09:00 to 17:00, closed weekends). Or you can enjoy one of the evening concerts which are also held in the gallery. It was in the City Hall that Croatian was first recognized as an official language, and in 1846 the first Croatian opera, Love and Malice by Vatroslav Lisinski was performed here. The society balls that were held here were particularly

splendid. The balls were first and foremost social occasions, with fun taking a back seat. They were held in some ten ballrooms all over Gornji grad: in the theatre building; in the hall of the brewery, in the City Hall, in Opatička ulica, in the Ban’s Palace on St Mark’s Square... The walz, the mazurka, and the 18th century dances the cotillon and the quadrille were some of the popular dances of the time. The hosts of the balls ensured that every lady and gentleman received, on entering the ballroom, a decorative fan and a booklet with a list of the dances. With a bit of luck, you might find one of the booklets with lists of dances from those long-ago times in one of Gornji grad’s many antique shops and galleries – a little reading material for your perusal as you sip a coffee in a Gornji grad coffee house to round off your walk. See the list on page 50. City Hall | Gradska vijećnica

Ćirilmetodsku ulicu krasi Gradska vijećnica . U 19. stoljeću tu je bilo staro gornjogradsko kazalište, u kojem je nastupom u Krabuljnom plesu godine 1882. karijeru počela proslavljena operna diva Milka Trnina. Kazalište je podignuto zaslugom trgovca Kristofora Stankovića, koji je za

njegovu izgradnju darovao 30.000 zlatnika što ih je osvojio na lutriji u Beču. Danas u Gradskoj vijećnici možete susresti mlade vjenčane parove koji su netom potpisali bračni ugovor. U njoj možete posjetiti i Galeriju Kristofor Stanković (radno vrijeme: 09:00-17:00, vikendom zatvoreno) ili pak u njezinu

Tour Three hree | Ruta 3

prostoru uživati u nekom od večernjih koncerata. U zgradi je Vijećnice 1846. izvedena prva hrvatska opera Ljubav i zloba Vatroslava Lisinskog, a godinu dana nakon toga u njoj je hrvatski proglašen službenim jezikom. Osim toga, u njoj je bila jedna od desetak gornjogradskih plesnih dvorana, koje su imale važnu ulogu u organizaciji zagrebačkog društvenog života u 19. stoljeću. Ples je, naime, prije svega bio društveni događaj, a tek potom zabava. Plesao se valcer,

Museums, Galleries & Recommended Tours Muzeji, galerije i razgledi The Klovićevi dvori Gallery is an essential part

"Essence of Life" Klovićevi dvori)

of Zagreb’s cultural offering. It holds exhibitions presenting national culture, as well as hosting exhibits on the international circuit. Hundreds of thousands of visitors pay testimony to the high standards of the gallery.

mazurka, cotillon i quadrille... A organizatori plesa brinuli su se da svaka dama i gospodin pri ulasku u dvoranu dobiju ukrašenu lepezu i knjižicu s popisom plesova. Tko zna, možda sličnu knjižicu s popisom plesova iz tih vremena nađete u nekoj od brojnih prodajnih galerija, pa je s veseljem proučite uz kavu koju ćete na kraju šetnje ispijati u nekoj od gornjogradskih kavana. Popis na str. 50.

Galerija Klovićevi dvori nezaobilazno je mjesto kulturne ponude grada Zagreba. Veliki izložbeni projekti koji reprezentiraju nacionalnu kulturu, ugošćivanje poznatih svjetskih izložbi kao i stotine tisuća posjetitelja dovoljno govore o visokim standardima te galerije.

| Ruta 3 Tour Three h hree

The Museum of the City of Zagreb, with its

Statue of M. J. Zagorka | Skulptura M. J. Zagorke

permanent exhibition, leads you back through the centuries, painting a portrait of the city from all aspects: politics, religion, history, economy, architecture, culture, leisure and everyday life. Muzej grada Zagreba vodi vas svojim stalnim postavom na uzbudljivo putovanje kroz stoljeća, portretirajući život grada u njegovim najrazličitijim aspektima. Tu ćete osim o političkoj, gospodarskoj i crkvenoj povijesti grada doznati mnogo i o njegovoj materijalnoj i pisanoj kulturi kao i o svakodnevnom životu Zagrepčana.

MGZ

A Walk With Zagorka Through Zagreb is an entirely feasible mission! Thanks to the magic of the performing arts, the famous Zagreb writer, chronicler, feminist and journalist Marija Jurić Zagorka will lead you though Gornji grad and answer all your questions. The tours, which are held on at least two Sundays in every month, are organized by the Marija Jurić Zagorka Society. You should reserve your place, which you can do by calling Dubravka Vidović on 095 901 46 61. Ms Vidović also worked on a dramatisation of Zagorka’s life for the Croatian National Theatre. Fittingly enough, Zagorka will be waiting for you at the allotted time in front of her statue in Tkalčićeva ulica.

Šetnja Zagrebom sa Zagorkom sasvim je moguća misija! Zahvaljujući glumačkom performansu, znamenita zagrebačka spisateljica i kroničarka, feministkinja i novinarka Marija Jurić Zagorka provest će vas Gornjim gradom, odgovarajući pritom na sva vaša pitanja. Ture najmanje dva puta na mjesec organizira Društvo Marije Jurić Zagorke, naručiti se valja na broj 095 901 46 61 kod Dubravke Vidović, koja je radila na projektu o Zagorki u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu. Zagorka će vas, kako je i red, čekati u dogovoreno vrijeme u Tkalčićevoj ulici ispred svoga spomenika.

Events | Događanja

Zagreb Summer Nights, including the 2nd Operetta and Musical Festival Zagrebačke ljetne večeri u sklopu kojeg je 2. Festival Operete i mjuzikla If you’re in Zagreb this summer you’ll once again be able to enjoy the “Zagreb Summer Nights”, one of the oldest summer music festivals in Croatia. This is an international festival attracting an array of performers from throughout the region. Concerts will fill the summer nights with music at two of Gornji grad’s atmospheric open air stages: Gradec and the atrium of Klovićevi dvori.

Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti i ove će godine uživati u programu “Zagrebačkih ljetnih večeri”, jednog od najstarijih ljetnih glazbenih festivala u Hrvatskoj, koji se održava na Gornjem gradu (atrij Klovićevih dvora i Gradec). Riječ je o međunarodnom festivalu na kojem se okupljaju brojni izvođači iz regije.

Date | Datum: 05.07–27.07. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 06. 07. Suzanne Vega, 09.07. Operetta and Musical Festival from Budapest | Festival Operete i mjuzikla iz Budimpešte, 27.07. Ivo Pogorelić Tickets | Ulaznice: 50 - 300kn, available from the Tourist Information Centre, Trg bana Jelačića 11. Also available from the venue on the day of the concert one hour before the concert starts, i.e. from 21:00. Tickets available at www.ulaznice.hr | Cijena ulaznica je 50–300 kn, a prodaju se u Turističkom informativnom centru, Trg bana Jelačića 11. Na dan koncerta ulaznice su u prodaji i na mjestu održavanja koncerta jedan sat prije početka (21:00). Karte su dostupne online na www.ulaznice.hr Info: Koncertna direkcija Zagreb, tel. 450 12 00, www.kdz.hr

Jelena Radan (KDZ) Ivo Pogorelić (KDZ)

The International Folklore Festival is the most highly-regarded event showcasing what may be termed authentic folk culture in Croatia. Participants at the Festival are amateurs who are dedicated to preserving and presenting their native cultural heritage. The Festival has been held in Zagreb since 1966, and is the successor to a festival of peasant culture which had been held since the 1930s. The International Folklore Festival presents and promotes the heritage of all nations and cultures, and contributes to the promotion of cultural diversity as one of the greatest treasures of mankind. In this year’s main programme of events, folklore societies and groups of emigrant Croatians from other continents or other European countries will showcase the ways in which they nurture and present their traditional music and dance. Alongside them, selected folklore societies from Croatia and around the world will be performing.

Međunarodna smotra folklora najuglednija je manifestacija tzv. izvornog folklora u Hrvatskoj, odnosno folklornog amaterizma posvećenog njegovanju zavičajne baštine. Održava se u Zagrebu od 1966. godine, a nasljednica je smotri hrvatske seljačke kulture organiziranih od 1930-ih. Predstavljajući različite narode i kulture, Smotra pridonosi promicanju ideje o kulturnoj raznolikosti kao općoj vrijednosti čovječanstva. Glavni program ove godine čine nastupi folklornih skupina hrvatskih iseljenika iz europskih i izvaneuropskih zemalja. Uz njih će svoju glazbenu i plesnu baštinu predstaviti folklorna društva iz Hrvatske i inozemstva.

Events | Događanja

45th International Folklore Festival 45. Međunarodna smotra folklora

Date | Datum: 20 - 24. 07. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 21.07. Concert: Slovenian Ethno Evening (Atrium of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery) | Koncert: Slovenska etno-večer (Atrij Galerije Klovićevi dvori), 22.07. Performances by folklore ensembles from Croatia and around the world (Gradec Stage) | Nastupi folklornih ansambala iz Hrvatske i svijeta (Pozornica Gradec), 24.07. Concert of Religious Folk Singing (St Katherine’s Church) | Koncert crkvenog pučkog pjevanja (crkva Sv. Katarine) Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno. Performances by artists every day on Trg bana J. Jelačića at 10:00 and 20:00 and on the Gradec open air stage Friday - Sunday at 21:00. | Nastupi se održavaju svaki dan na Trgu bana J. Jelačića i počinju u 10:00 i 20:00 sati, a na otvorenoj pozornici “Gradec” od petka do nedjelje s početkom u 21:00 sat. Info: Koncertna direkcija Zagreb, tel. 450 12 00, www.kdz.hr.

Events | Događanja Gornji Grad Art Colony Gornjogradska likovna kolonija As part of the Summer on Stross festival on the northern side of Strossmayerovo šetalište, there will be free workshops open to all. On weekdays there will be workshops for decorating textiles, for drawing, making toys, modelling clay, collage, graphic design, painting and more. Sunday workshops are all for children: painting cardboard houses, making banners etc. Weekdays and weekends 11:00 – 13:00 and 16:00 – 19:00. No workshops on public holidays. Apart from workshops, there will be original artworks by members of the Croatian Association of Artists for sale. Open: Weekdays 11:00 – 23:00. Weekends and public holidays 10:00 – 20:00. Every day, apart from the workshops and other events, artists of many kinds, portraitists, cartoonists, painters, illustrators and others will create works right here which will be for sale. Open: free choice of the artists.

Manifestacija “Ljeto na Štrosu” održava se na sjevernoj strani Strossmayerova šetališta. Radionice izrade predmeta i umjetnina u različitim tehnikama (oslikavanje tekstila, crtanje, izrade igračaka, glinamol, kolaž, grafičke tehnike, slikanje) održavaju se radnim danom. Nedjeljne radionice (oslikavanje kartonskih kućica, zajedničkog platna i dr.) namijenjene su isključivo djeci. Radionice su besplatne za sve sudionike, a održavaju se radnim danom i vikendom 11:00 –13:00 i 16:00–19:00, osim blagdana. Na istom mjestu mogu se kupiti originalni radovi članova Hrvatskog društva likovnih umjetnika (radnim danom 11:00–23:00, vikendom i blagdanom 10:00–20:00). Neovisno o radionicama i ostalim sadržajima, portretisti, karikaturisti, slikari, crtači, ilustratori i ostali likovni umjetnici na licu će mjesta stvarati svoje radove koji će se moći i kupiti. Radno vrijeme: po slobodnom izboru umjetnika.

Date | Datum: 27.05 – 03.09. We recommend | Preporučujemo: Art workshops open to the public on Strossmayerovo šetalište. | Likovne radionice otvorenog tipa za građanstvo – Strossmayerovo šetalište. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Detailed information about the programme of events on www.hdlu.hr, or www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. There will be a notice board with the detailed programme in Gornji grad, or call 461 18 19. | Sve informacije o programu možete doznati na www.hdlu.hr, na stranicama www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr ili na broj tel. 461 18 19. Na Gornjem gradu izložen je pano s detaljnim rasporedom.

The Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum is the summer stage of the Amadeo Urban Theatre, Film and Music Stage. The rich programme of events lasts right through until the beginning of September. This year’s programme will see performances by a great number of Croatian groups and solo artists, such as the Lado folklore ensemble, Edin Karamazov, Petrit Çeku, Klapa Nostalgija, and Mariachi Los Caballeros. There is also a children’s programme named Mali Amadeo (“Little Amadeo”), with ten children’s theatre performances, as well as the “Amadeoff Stage” which is an opportunity to see five performances from a variety of amateur theatre festivals. On top of that, there will be two premieres this year: Thomas Berhnard’s Simply Complicated and D. R. Sanderson’s O Brother, Where Art Thou?

Atrij Hrvatskog prirodoslovnog muzeja ljetna je pozornica Klupske kazališnoglazbene scene “Amadeo”. Bogat program traje sve do početka rujna. U sklopu ovogodišnjeg programa domaća i inozemna publika pratit će nastupe brojnih hrvatskih ansambala i solista, kao što su “Lado”, “Los Caballeros”, klapa “Nostalgija”, Edin Karamazov, Petrit Çeku i dr. Program “Mali Amadeo” nudi 10 kazališnih predstava za djecu, a u sklopu “Scene Amadeoff “izvest će se 5 predstava s različitih festivala amaterskog kazališta te dvije kazališne premijere (Thomas Berhnard: Jednostavno komplicirano, D. R. Sanderson: Tko je ovdje lud?).

Events | Događanja

Amadeo Stage Scena Amadeo

Date | Datum: 18.06 – 03.09. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 17.07. Petrit Çeku, guitar | gitara, 20.07. Aldemaromania Trio & Ricardo Luque, 24.07. Mariachi Los Caballeros Tickets | Ulaznice: 50 - 60 kn, on sale every day 19:00 – 21:00. All performances start at 21:00 | Cijena 50 - 60 kn, ulaznice se mogu kupiti svaki dan 19:00 - 21:00. Svi programi počinju u 21:00. Info: Atrium of the Croatian Natural History Museum | Atrij Hrvatskoga prirodoslovnog muzeja, Demetrova 1, tel 481 69 08, www.scenaamadeo.hr

Edin Karamazov From T. Bernhard's play "Simply Complicated" | Iz predstave T. Bernharda "Jednostavno komplicirano"

Events | Događanja The Changing of the Guard Smjena straže During the Thirty Years’ War, in U vrijeme Tridesetogodišnjega rata the 17th century, the Croatian light u 17. stoljeću hrvatska laka konjica, cavalry, known for its exceptional na glasu po iznimnom junaštvu, heroism, joined the French army. The pristupila je francuskoj vojsci. Godine exceptional military skill and original 1664. u sklopu francuske kraljevske appearance of the Croatian soldiers vojske utemeljena je pukovnija “Royal was affirmed in the year 1664 by the Cravattes”. Želite li vidjeti kako founding of the Croatian regiment izgleda smjena straže ugledne Kravatof the Royal Cravattes within the pukovnije, budite nazočni dvosatnoj French Royal Army. You can see for ceremoniji koja počinje atraktivnom yourself the Changing of the Guard “pripremom straže i pregledom of the brave Croatian soldiers at the naoružanja”. Nakon toga straža two-hour ceremony which begins se postavlja na nekoliko lokacija, with the attractive “Preparation of od Markova trga, preko Trga bana the Guard and Arms Inspection”. The Jelačića do Gospina kipa na Kaptolu. whole unit takes part in the ceremony, Promarširajte Zagrebom u društvu after which the guards are positioned oružara, trubača, bubnjara, stjegonoše at the appropriate positions, which i njihova zapovjednika i upoznajte are incidentally attractive sights for Gornji grad na poseban način. Smjena tourists, from St Mark’s Square via straže počinje u 11:40, a završava u Zagreb’s main square, Trg bana Josipa 14:20. Jelačića, to the statue of Our Lady on Kaptol. March through Zagreb in the company of the armourer, the trumpeter, the drummer, the standardbearer and the commander, and get to know the sights of Gornji grad in a completely new way. The Changing of the Guard starts at 11:40 and ends at 14:20. Date | Datum: 16.04 – 18.10. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 05.08. Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving | Day Dan domovinske zahvalnosti, 08.10. Independence Day | Dan neovisnosti, 18.10. Cravat Day | Dan kravate Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Tourist Information Centre | Turistički informativni centar, Trg bana J. Jelačića 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, 481 40 54. Open | Radno vrijeme 08:30 - 21:00, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays | subotom, nedjeljom i praznicima 09:00 - 18:00.

Can you plan to spend your summer far from the sea? Of course you can! There is no doubt that many of the people of Zagreb plan to spend their summer right here on Stross. In the pleasing shade of centuries-old trees, there is an almost palpable romance on the promenade named Strossmayerovo šetalište, or Stross for short. This year, the whole summer, right until 3 September, is given over to the tenth jubilee of the Summer on Stross festival, offering a range of cultural, recreational and tourist events. Strossmayerovo šetalište will once again reverberate to the sound of jazz, soul, swing, and ethno music, performed by more than 80 groups of musicians.

Može li se ljeto planirati daleko od mora? Naravno da može! Nema sumnje da će mnogi Zagrepčani ljeto provesti na Štrosu! Uz ugodan hlad stoljetnih stabala i gotovo opipljivu romantiku Strossmayerova šetališta i ove desete, jubilarne godine “Ljeto na Štrosu” do 3. rujna nudi čitav niz kulturnih, zabavnih i turističkih priredbi. Strossmayerovim šetalištem ponovno će odjekivati taktovi džeza, soula, svinga i etnoglazbe u izvedbi više od 80 glazbenih sastava.

Events | Događanja

Summer on Stross Ljeto na Štrosu

Date | Datum: 27.05 – 03.09. We recommend | Preporučujemo: 27.06. Methodus Orchestra, 02.07. Jewsers Tickets | Ulaznice: Free entry | besplatno Info: Strossmayerovo šetalište, www.ljetonastrosu.com. More details from the information desk in Gornji Grad. | Detaljni program možete dobiti na informativnom pultu na Gornjem gradu.

Events | Događanja

The Gradec Summer Cinema Ljetno kino “Gradec” The Gradec Summer Cinema takes place on the silver screen under clear and starry skies in Gornji grad. Film buffs can enjoy screenings of contemporary and cult film by both Croatian and foreign directors. Apart from film, there will also be children’s theatre performances, so the space behind the Gornji grad Grammar School will become a place for all generations to gather and socialize. After 23:00 there is a cunning plan to show silent film, so film lovers will have the chance to enjoy masterpieces of cinema right through to the morning.

Pred filmskim platnom pod vedrim i zvjezdanim nebom na Gornjem gradu održava se program Ljetnog kina “Gradec”. Filmoljupci će moći uživati u projekcijama suvremenih i već kultnih filmova domaće i strane produkcije. Uz filmove na repertoaru će biti i kazališne dječje predstave pa će prostor iza Gornjogradske gimnazije biti mjesto okupljanja i druženja svih generacija. Nakon 23:00 sata emitirat će se nijemi filmovi te će publika imati priliku uživati u filmskim remek-djelima do jutarnjih sati.

The Croatian History Museum Hrvatski povijesni muzej In the Croatian History Museum through the summer months, visitors will be able to find out about the life, the works and the legacy of Ban Josip Jelačić. The exhibition “Memories of a Ban – the Jelačić Legacy” opened last year to mark the 150th anniversary of Jelačić’s death. Most of the exhibits were donated to the museum by the Jelačić family.

U Hrvatskom povijesnom muzeju za ljetnih mjeseci posjetitelji će se moći upoznati s životom, radom i ostavštinom bana Josipa Jelačića. Izložba “Uspomene na jednog bana – ostavština Jelačić” postavljena je prošle godine u povodu 150. obljetnice banove smrti, a većina je eksponata dar članova obitelji Jelačić muzeju.

In the Croatian Natural History Museum, visitors will be able to see the exhibition “Animalism in the Work of Vladimir Filakovac”. The exhibition is dedicated to presenting this Croatian artist whose work was inspired by natural history. The atrium of the Museum is also host to the Amadeo Stage all summer long.

U Hrvatskom prirodoslovnom muzeju posjetitelji će moći pogledati izložbu “Animalistika u djelu Vladimira Filakovca”. Tema su izložbe djela hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika inspirirana prirodoslovljem. Atrij muzeja je tijekom ljeta i domaćin Scene “Amadeo”.

Events | Događanja

The Croatian Natural History Museum Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej

The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art has a permanent exhibition throughout the summer. This museum is considered to be the first museum of naïve art in the world. It is especially focused on preserving the Croatian stylistic interpretation of the naïve as developed during the 20th century. The museum has a collection of 5,000 artworks. The permanent exhibition is made up of around 80 of the most important paintings and sculptures by some 20 leading artists of the naïve movement.

Stalan postav cijelo ljeto nudi Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti, koji se smatra i prvim muzejom naivne umjetnosti u svijetu. Muzej čuva djela hrvatskog naivnog stilskog izraza 20. stoljeća. Njegov fundus čini 5.000 umjetnina, među kojima je oko 80 antologijskih slika i skulptura dvadesetak klasika naive.

Info: The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art | Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti, Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. 485 19 11. Open | Radno vrijeme: 10:00–18:00, Saturday and Sunday | subotom i nedjeljom 10:00–13:00. Closed Mondays | Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno.

Events | Događanja

The Meštrović Atelier Atelijer Meštrović The Meštrović Atelier, the Meštrović Gallery and the Kaštelet-Crikvine summer residence in Split and the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer in Otavice together comprise the Ivan Meštović Museum. Meštrović is a world-renowned sculptor and perhaps Croatia’s greatest sculptor of all time, and this collection is located in his family home in Gornji grad at Mletačka 8. Meštrović lived here from 1922 to 1942. In the atelier you’ll find an extensive photo-documentary collection and Meštrović’s personal archive, as well as works by other artists connected to the life and work of Ivan Meštrović. The permanent exhibition is housed in an authentic environment, featuring Meštrović’s works from the period up to 1942. At the Meštrović atelier in May and June you can watch the cycle of concerts Confronting Silence III and IV – Edin Karamazov in the Meštrović Atelier featuring the Edin Karamazov Quartet (guitars), Stjepan Hauser (cello) and Edin Karamazov solo on guitar and lute, as well as Project Meštart: The Amela Frankl Exhibition, 31 May until the end of June. This multimedia artist will give a video account of her relationship with the Meštrović atelier, as well as with one of the sculptor’s most famous Zagreb monuments, The Well of Life.

Atelijer Meštrović dio je Muzeja Ivana Meštrovića kojem pripada i splitska Galerija Meštrović Kaštelet-Crikvine, te crkva Presvetog Otkupitelja u Otavicama. Zbirka velikog hrvatskog kipara svjetskog ugleda smještena je u obiteljskoj kući na Gornjem gradu u Mletačkoj 8, gdje je Meštrović živio od 1922. do 1942. godine. U Atelijeru se čuva bogata fotodokumentacija i osobni arhiv umjetnika, ali i djela drugih autora. Stalni postav izložen je u autentičnom ambijentu, s radovima Meštrovića nastalima do 1942. Tijekom lipnja tu možete poslušati koji od koncerata iz ciklusa “Confronting Silence” Edina Karamazova i gostiju te posjetiti izložbu “Za Zdenac života” zagrebačke multimedijalne umjetnice Amele Frankl, nastalu u sklopu projekta Meštart.

We recommend | Preporučujemo: Stjepan Hauser – the artist who created an arrangement of Michael Jackon‘s Smooth Criminal on the cello | Stjepan Hauser – umjetnik, čelist i autor aranžmana Michael Jackson‘s “Smooth Criminal” Tickets | Ulaznice: Tickets for the Meštrović atelier cost 15 - 30 kn. Tickets to one of the concerts in the Atelier can also be used to see the exhibition in the atelier. Concerts start at 20:00. | Cijena ulaznica za Atelijer Meštrović: 15 - 30 kn. Ulaznica za koncert vrijedi i za razgledavanje postava muzeja. Koncerti počinju u 20:00 sati. Info: Check the Facebook page for Atelijer Meštrović for the exact dates of the concerts, or call | Za točan datum koncerta provjerite stranice facebooka (Atelijer Meštrović) ili nazovite 485 11 23. Open | Radno vrijeme: 10:00–18:00, Saturdays and Sundays | subotom i nedjeljom 10:00–14:00. Closed Mondays | Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno.

Aimed at natives, newcomers and visitors alike, the Museum has a single task: to present you with an enjoyable overview of Zagreb and its history. 31 May an exhibition of photography opens, “Memories of Zagreb”, which runs until 31 August. At the beginning of July, an exhibition of photos from the Maksimir park and neighbourhood will open, and will run until 21 August.

Glavna zadaća Muzeja jest iz različitih vizura osvijetliti prošlost i sadašnjost Zagreba starosjediocima, došljacima i gostima grada. Od lipnja do kraja kolovoza možete posjetiti izložbu fotografija “Uspomene na Zagreb”, a od srpnja možete razgledati fotografije Maksimira.

Events | Događanja

Museum of the City of Zagreb Muzej grada Zagreba

The Klovićevi dvori Gallery Galerija Klovićevi dvori The Klovićevi dvori Gallery has some superb exhibitions laid on over the summer. Until 10 July you can see an exhibition on Pompeii, a gem which lay hidden for over 1600 years. Pompeii is a Mecca for tourists who flock from all over the world to sea this treasury of classical culture which has unlocked so many secrets, as well as initiating a great deal of speculation about the customs, preferences, mystical cults and rites of initiation of the ancient Romans. Part of this treasury will reside for four months in Gornji grad, in the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. This important exhibition serves as a good introduction to what awaits us at Klovićevi dvori at summer’s end: the exhibition Expressionism in Croatia. The Gallery in the Lotrščak Tower functions as part of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, and from April to July you can see an exhibition of photography there called First Shoot (Prvo okidanje).

Galerija Klovićevi dvori i preko ljeta se može pohvaliti iznimnim programom. Do 10. srpnja galerija predstavlja Pompeje i njihovo blago, skriveno više od 1600 godina. Pompeji su meka turista koji iz cijeloga svijeta hrle u tu riznicu antičkoga života, a otkrili su mnoge tajne i potaknuli spekulacije o običajima, sklonostima, mističnim kultovima i inicijacijama drevnih Rimljana. Ta je velika izložba dobar uvod u ono što nas u galeriji čeka na zalasku ljeta – “Ekspresionizam u Hrvatskoj”. U sklopu Klovićevih dvora djeluje Galerija Kule Lotrščak, koja od travnja do srpnja nudi izložbe fotografija pod nazivom “First shoot” (“Prvo okidanje”).

We recommend | Preporučujemo: 06.09–06.11. Expressionism in Croatia | Ekspresionizam u Hrvatskoj, 16.06–10.07. Peter Cole Tickets | Ulaznice: 10 - 40kn. Info: Klovićevi dvori Gallery | Galerija Klovićevi dvori, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 485 19 26, Open | Radno vrijeme 11:00–19:00. Closed Mondays | Ponedjeljak zatvoreno. The Klovićevi dvori Gallery is closed over the period 10.07 - 06.09. | Galerija Klovićevi dvori je zatvorena 10.07 - 06.09.

Events | Događanja Zagrebački vremeplov Zagreb Time Machine Upper town in the Past – Upper town Musical Panorama Gornji grad u prošlosti – Gornjogradske glazbene vedute Is it not so that many of us have wished, at least once in our lives, we could go back in time? Every Saturday between 16 April and 25 September, the Zagreb Time Machine whisks us back to times past, to city streets alive with the music of the old Zagreb salons and populated by the heroes of old stories, legends and lives. The Street Musicians, the Zagreb Cinkuši Society and the Potepuhi Quartet, will lead you through Gornji grad and whisk you back to the old days to the tune of the old, romantic songs of the city. And who knows, maybe the song will lead you to a chance meeting with the postman, blowing his horn when he arrives with the mail, or with the city watchman who looked after the safety and social mores of the city at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Maybe the coal porter will rush by, just like in the old days, and whisper you a story or a juicy piece of local

gossip that you’d never hear in the newspapers. And maybe you’ll see Manda, the beautiful girl with the water jug at the spring on the main square, who according to legend was spied by a passing prince who pleaded “Mando, dušo, zagrabi!” (“Manda, dear, fetch me some water!”), thus giving the city and the fountain on the main square their names. Take a look around you and maybe you’ll see Dora Krupićeva and Pavle Gregorijanec walk past you, characters from the most popular historical novel set in old Zagreb, The Goldsmith’s Gold. Perhaps they’ll tell you their story, a story of a great love. Or you might have a chat about literature with Marija Jurić Zagorka, journalist, writer and feminist who was not afraid to describe the Zagreb of her time in its true colours. Or perhaps these memories might come to life for you in front of St Mark’s Church, where in the 16th century Matija Gubec, leader of the Peasant Revolt was “crowned” with a red-hot ring of metal and cruelly put to death. This fighter for the rights of the disenfranchised serfs said “The time will come when my eyes will look down from the sky at my people, a free and happy Croatian nation.”

molećivo: “Mando, dušo, zagrabi!” Izvor se danas zove Manduševac, a grad - Zagreb! Osvrnite se oko sebe bar tu i tamo, jer možda kraj vas Kamenitom ulicom šeće Dora Krupićeva i Pavle Gregorijanec, likovi najpopularnijeg povijesnog romana starog Zagreba “Zlatarevo zlato”. Možda vam ispričaju svoju priču, priču o velikoj ljubavi. O književnosti možete koju prozboriti i s Marijom Jurić Zagorkom, novinarkom i spisateljicom, feministicom koja se nije libila Zagreb onoga vremena opisivati onakvim kakva je bio. A, možda vam sjećanja ožive pred Markovom crkvom, tu gdje je u 16. je stoljeću okrunjen užarenom željeznom krunom i okrutno pogubljen vođa Seljačke bune, borac za prava obespravljenih kmetova, Matija Gubec koji je onomad govorio: “...doći će doba kad će moje oči gledati s neba na slobodan i sretan moj hrvatski puk”.

Events | Događanja

Tko to od nas nije bar jednom poželio vratiti se u prošlost? Od 16. travnja do 25. rujna “Zagrebački vremeplov” vraća vas svake subote u minula vremena, kad su zagrebačkim ulicama šetali junaci nekih starih priča, legendi i života i odjekivala glazba nekadašnjih salona. Gornjogradskim ulicama uz starogradske, ljubavne pjesme, vode vas i vraćaju u prošle dane ulični svirači - Zagrebački cinkuši i kvartet Potepuh. Tko zna, možda baš pjesma pobudi sjećanje na poštare koji noseći pisma pušu u rog ili na nekadašnje gradske stražare koji su se brinuli za sigurnost ali i društveni moral Zagrepčana. Možda kraj vas protrči i kolporter, pa vam šapne kakvu lokalnu priču, kakav dobar trač koji u novinama nećete naći. A možda ste te sreće da susretnete Mandu prekrasnu djevojku s vrčom koju je žedan ban na izvoru vode ugledao pa kazao

Events | Događanja

The Secrets of Grič Tajne Griča If it is your wish to peer as deep as possible into the past and the secrets of old Zagreb, there’s no better way than to pick up a lantern and reveal the Secrets of Grič through an interactive tour of the Upper Town. When night falls, costumed characters from the novels of Marija Jurić Zagorka will lead you through the Upper Town, telling you its stories and legends and encouraging you to take an active part in recreations of the events of those long ago times. The tours take place on Fridays and Saturdays from 21:00. The starting point is the beginning of Mesnička ulica, where your guide will await you in a black hooded cloak, holding a sign saying “Secrets of Grič”. On your lantern-lit path you’ll meet the lamplighter who lit and put out the streetlights of the Upper Town, the loving couple Countess Nera and Captain Siniša, as well as Zagorka herself. You’ll hear, among other things, the songs of Petrica Kerempuh, and maybe burst into song yourself, accompanied by a group of musicians, the Muzikaši.

Želite li proniknuti čim dublje u povijest i tajne starog Zagreba, valja vam uzeti fenjer u ruku. To će vam omogućiti interaktivna tura Gornjim gradom “Tajne Griča”. Kad padne noć, kostimirani likovi iz romana Marije Jurić Zagorke vodit će vas Gornjim gradom, otkriti vam njegove priče i legende te vas potaknuti da i sami aktivno sudjelujete u igranim događajima iz tog davnog doba. Tura kreće petkom i subotom u 21:00 sat, a polazište je početak Mesničke ulice, gdje vas čeka vodič s crnim plaštem i kapuljačom i natpisom “Tajne Griča” u rukama. S fenjerom u ruci na svom putu susrest ćete Zagorku, nažigača koji štapom pali i gasi gornjogradske lampe te slavni ljubavni par – kontesu Neru i kapetana Sinišu. Slušat ćete pritom pjesme Petrice Kerempuha, a na zadnjoj postaji možda i sami zapjevate uz Muzikaše i svojom pjesmom prizovete gospona Fulira.

Date | Datum: 01.05–30.09. Tickets | Ulaznice: 80 kn Info: Tickets for sale before the start of the tour. Further details on www.katapult.hr. Reservations on 091 461 56 78 or by e-mail: tajnegrica@katapult.hr. | Karte se kupuju prije početka obilaska, a svi detalji mogu se naći na internetskoj stranici www.katapult.hr. Rezervacije na broj 091 461 56 78 ili na e-mail tajnegrica@katapult.hr.

Two young ladies from Zagreb, Dora and Iva, both English teachers and tour guides, offer you a tour of the city with a difference. On Saturdays at 10:30 you can follow the “Do You Speak Croatian?” tour, a fun interactive sightseeing tour which gives you the chance to learn about twenty words of Croatian. On Fridays at 18:00 you can join the “Zagreb’s Juicy Gossip Tour”, where you can hear unusual and fun stories from Zagreb past and present.

Dvije mlade Zagrepčanke, profesorice jezika i turističke vodičice, Dora i Iva, nude vam razgledavanje grada na osobit način. Subotom u 10:30 počinje “Do You Speak Croatian”, zabavan i interaktivan razgled na kojem strani gosti mogu naučiti 20-ak hrvatskih riječi. Petkom u 18:00 sati “Zagrebački štikleci” otkrivaju neobične i zabavne priče iz zagrebačke prošlosti i sadašnjosti.

Events | Događanja

Zagreb Inside

Date | Datum: 06.05–29.10. (excluding 20 - 26.06 and the whole of August | pauza 20–26.06. i cijeli kolovoz) Tickets | Ulaznice: 90 kn adults | 90 kn odrasli, 70 kn under-26s | 70 kn mladi do 26 godina No reservation necessary, tickets available from the guides before the start of the tour. | Najave nisu potrebne, karte se kupuju kod vodiča prije razgleda. Info: Tours start in front of the Tourist Information Centre on Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and take in Kaptol and Gornji grad, info@zagrebinside.com, www.zagrebinside.com. | Ture uključuju obilazak Kaptola i Gornjeg grada. Polazak ispred Turističkog informativnog centra na Trgu bana Josipa Jelačića. Vidi info@zagrebinside.com i www.zagrebinside.com.

A Stroll Around Zagreb with Zagorka Šetnja Zagrebom sa Zagorkom If you’d like to get to know Marija Jurić Zagorka, the great Croatian writer and first Croatian woman journalist, why not call the Marija Jurić Zagorka Society. The writer of the novels “The Witch of Grič” and “The Daughter of Lotrščak”, among other famous novels, awaits you on Gornji grad.

Da biste upoznali hrvatsku književnicu i prvu hrvatsku novinarku Mariju Jurić Zagorku možete nazvati Društvo Marije Jurić Zagorke. Književnica koja je napisala Gričku vješticu, Kći Lotrščaka i još desetak popularnih romana čeka vas na Gornjem gradu.

Date | Datum: 15.05–23.10. Tickets | Ulaznice: Free, but please call in advance | Besplatno, no obavezna predbilježba Info: Tours take place on Sundays, at least twice a month. Reservations on 095 901 46 61. Tours depart from Tkalčićeva ulica in front of the statue of M. J. Zagorka at 10:00 | Ture se organiziraju nedjeljom, najmanje dva puta na mjesec. Rezervacije na broj 095 901 46 61. Tura kreće iz Tkalčićeve ulice ispred Zagorkina spomenika u 10:00 sati.

For all information | Za sve informacije: Tourist Information Centre | Turistički informativni centar, Trg bana J. Jelačića 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, 481 40 54. Open | Radno vrijeme 08:30 21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays | subotom, nedjeljom i praznicima 09:00 - 18:00.