Acne Studios

Andrea Conde JimĂŠnez

BA Fashion marketing & communication Level 5, 2017-2018 5FAMK003C Visual and video techniques CWK1 Nicolas Godon

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TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Corporate Profile

7

2. Market Position

8

3. Current Situation

11

4. Communication Background

12

5. The Message

15

6. Target Market

16

7. Objectives

21

8. What not to do

22

9. Inspiration

25

10. Editorial Brief

26

11. The Styling

29

12. Model Casting

30

13. Hair & Makeup

33

14. Location & Prepration

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15. Time Schedule

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16. Art Direction

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17. Model Direction

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18. Post Shooting

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19. Page Layout

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20. Editorial Preview 47 20. Lookbook 61 21. Ministie 70 23. References

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ACNE

CORPORATE PROFILE

Acne Studios is a luxury fashion house based in Stockholm founded by Jonny Johansson in 1996. Johansson had interests in contemporary art, photography & architecture, and used his interests to create a one-of-a-kind design house with a cult following. Acne is defined by its distinct and custom-developed fabrics. They are also known for their beautiful brick & mortar locations that incorporate modern design and architecture to create an immersive shopping experience.

The Acne aesthetic is unique, distinct, and mesmerizing.

They are an industry leader in incorporating contemporary design into every aspect of the brand so that they are an experience, not just a label. Acne currently has flagship stores in Stockholm, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles and Tokyo, as well as a vast commerce presence. They currently sell men’s & women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, and denim. The brand is constantly innovating new designs and campaigns to put itself at forefront of contemporary design.

The name Acne stands for “Ambition to Create Novel Expressions”. Jonny Johansson said he liked the idea of “appropriating a difficult word” and making it cool.

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ACNE

MARKET POSITION

As being a brand with a peculiar philosophy, Acne Studios is always trying to find new and different ways to run the fashion company. It finds strengths in its original creativity and way of thinking, in its strong consumer base, in the global reach but especially in its indistinct style and quality which make them stand out from their competitors.

Through many collaborations with artists, the brand has been able to express their essence based on a minimalist style, creativity, authenticity and their focus on the details. Moreover, Acne Studios is notable due to its alternative approach to classic design, becoming a well-respected brand

creating ready-to-wear fashion collections, interior design solutions, books, magazines and exhibitions. This makes them distinguish themselves due to their lack of promotion and advertising, even though, the brand has created their own magazine name ACNE paper.

Although its recognition, it is not as expensive as luxury brands.

The prices are seen good regarding the quality offered.

Acne Studios is notable due to its alternative approach to classic design, becoming a well-respected brand creating readyto-wear fashion collections, interior design solutions, books, magazines and exhibitions.

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CURRENT SITUATION

Nowadays Acne Studios stills have the founder Jonny Johannson as its creative director. Even having its presence worldwide, Acne is very faithful to its principles as this brand is about making functional designs that still remain interesting.

Acne’s style is not only about ready-to-wear, but easy to wear.

Its collections still keep mixing its mimics of the Scandinavian style with simplicity by using volumes and loose proportions creating oversized looks that fusion with layering.

It has flagship store in the most important cities as London, Milan, New York, Paris, Shanghai, Seoul and even Tokyo among others.

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ACNE

COMMUNICATION BACKGROUND

Acne Studios is not promoted in the same commercial ways as most other brands. They abstain themselves from traditional ways of advertising, as the brand believes that their message should get to its consumers in a clear and consistent way. So for them, this may be affected by the way advertising transmit it.

Nevertheless, the brand produces “ACNE Paper”, their own bi-annual magazine. This covers the disciplines of art, fashion, photography, design and architecture. It is not a catalogue, as in its different publications they talk about a specific theme which is developed from different points of view of experts, celebrities or even friends from the Acne Family.

Acne Studios has made Acne Paper their own new way of communicating with their consumers and with other brands, designers or artists with who may collaborate.

Acne is active on multiple social media platforms which act as their digital advertisements.

They use Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest and Youtube. The brand keeps a minimalism touch regarding their social media channels, which are focused on the products, the campaigns for the collections and also the fashion shows.

With their communication, Acne really expresses the message of what the brand stands for, giving to their customer’s something to identify with.

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THE MESSAGE

Acne Studios really does it very well in terms of messaging as the brand sets a clear statement of what it stands for, giving consumers something to identify with. From the beginning they presented themselves as an independent brand with a message is based on conceiving and developing a lifestyle brand offering highly coveted products. They want to be something more than just “only” fashion.

“Fashion is the best form of self-expression. We like to design pieces that together form the coolest wardrobe, but is ultimately wearable. It becomes one way of thinking as individual pieces, but together creates a strong, modern and considered the statement.” - Jonny Johansson

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ACNE

TARGET MARKET

The target of the brand is both male and females between 20-45 years old. The customers are likely to be from middle or upper class with a high-income level as the products are seen as investment pieces.

They are highly educated and likely to work in creative industries e.g. in fashion, graphic design and architecture.

Some interests of the person might be related to travelling, art, architecture and shopping. The clients have the impression of being interesting people and well educated, they do not dress to attract attention but to express style.

They do not like to show off as they tend to be modest people that values quality and what the brand stands for.

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OBJECTIVES

With this new capsule collection, our main objective is to reach out a wider audience and introduce them to the world of Acne. By doing this, the main idea is to make these new clients stay with the brand and even become loyal consumers by purchasing the garments the brand offers.

Even having a target range that goes between 20-45 years old, for Acne is important to raise awareness and generate more engagement.

Acne’s vision is to keep evolving as well as keep providing new garments that keep the essence of minimalism and simplicity through its clothes. As this brand is very related with art, the main idea is to express the contrast of simplicity in terms of fashion with the art which is represented by the bright colors used in the photographies of the collection.

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WHAT NOT TO DO

It is very important for the brand to have a good and consistent overall visual communication and concept regarding its collections. The visual concept starts with its products, so for the brand is crucial to maintaining its concepts, inspirations and trends, giving diversity and a constant innovation for their consumers.

For Jonny Johansson it has always been about volumes and oversized clothing mixed with layering. All the looks must have always a simplicity about them even being over-exaggerated proportions and forms. It is essential to consider that the brand is largely influenced by the Swedish

minimalism and practicality, so this brand essence must be always present.

Acne must know which message wants to transmit, as it must be understood by the recipients.

For a brand sending the right message at the right time is crucial, But what is more, it is necessary to send it with the appropriate words and actions as misunderstanding must be avoided.

It is all about gaining credibility about being a conscious fashion brand rather than create a bad image because of how a campaign reflected the wrong message to the audience.

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INSPIRATION

The main inspiration for the collection is the 90’s Minimal trend, which is based on the famous quote “Less is More�. During this decade, Miuccia Prada indulged this trend during 1998 as part of a collection based on volumes and simple lines. The aesthetics of excess and opulence from the 80s were reduced to a basic colour plate focused on black and white, with innovative textiles resulting in urban looks with simplistic touches.

Fashion designers as Martin Margiela, Clavin Klein, Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, shaped the 90s minimalism that represented that shift from experimenting with mixture of many colors and fabrics, and with complex silhouettes that focused on highlighting the different parts of the body; to the new challenge which was about economizing, do more with less.

takes advantage of the new technology and use the new fabrics that besides having a better fit to the body and a better movement, also have greater durability and ease of your care.

Acne Studios has as reference the Scandinavian fashion which is based on simplicity, functionality and comfortability making use of play colors and comfy textures; brands as Helmut Lang because of its inspiration regarding minimalism and deconstructionism, generating perfect silhouettes through the use of straight cuts; Balenciaga as it creates volumes and shapes through the structure of the material and the garment, Miuccia Prada for the use of innovative materials, combination of patterns and textures in their garments, Yves Saint Laurent as it transforms fashion for contemporary women, challenging cultural canons, Minimalism is based on simple sil- and finally Gianni Versace with a dahouettes to create new pieces whose ring proposal and innovation inspired unique and special touch is given by a in the popular culture of the moment. detail or a simple cut. This trend also

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ACNE

EDITORIAL BRIEF

The editorial is one of the key parts in this new Acne’s capsule Collection named “Soft Minimal” Collection. The editorial must fit exactly with the image that Acne is actually giving to the world.

As for the brand, the whole visual concept starts with the garments, this collection will work as a 90s revival.

This campaign pays homage to the minimal style of the season based on feminine knitwear featuring knitwear dresses, silk tops and straight line pants while mixing delicate and soft fabrics with lace and oversized pieces.

keeping things simple yet beautiful.

The editorial will feature eight outfits that will express perfectly the essence of the brand as the style does not vary from what Acne already offers. There is going to be only one model that will be the image of this new capsule collection. She will be wearing all the clothes with barely any makeup on, as the aesthetic for the brand is based on expressing naturally through its models.

The photographies will express that contrast intentioned between the black and white presence regarding the essence of the miniThere is a clear black and white malist style and the background’s combination which is basically re- striking colors. It is about exprespresented by the pieces itself that sing the mix between fashion and accentuate both naturalness and art that the brand has a reference freshness of outfits. It is all about in terms of interest and inspiration.

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THE STYLING

The styling part of the editorial will be carried by Clare Richardson, a British stylist and fashion consultant based in New York City and London.

She has worked with some of the biggest names in the industry, from Hermes, Tommy Hilfiger to Calvin Klein.

Currently, Clare is the fashion director at Holiday Magazine and a contributing fashion editor at British Vogue and Italian Vogue with clients such as Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez, Rag & Bone, and Mugler. Her work has been featured in various editorials such as Vogue, V Magazine, and M le Monde.

She matches perfectly with the brand aesthetics in terms of style as she will represent the idea of wearing those clothes that have statement messages as well as being desirable and fashionable, keeping the essence of Acne Studios.

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MODEL CASTING

Asia’s most international model Liu Wen, is the face of the new collection.

Liu Wen was born in 1988 in a Chinese town, she currently has 22 years recently. In 2008 she made the leap to the first level catwalks by his two great supporters, Jean Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, who even included her in their haute couture fashion shows.

At the same time, she was already beginning to carry out advertising campaigns, some aimed at the Asian market such as Gap and others worldwide such as the Calvin Klein ckOne fragrance.

After 2008 where she was considered one of the most important newcomers, comes 2009 where she certainly responded to expectations with more than 70 shows per season, a scandalous figure that in addition, it would adorn with campaigns like those of DKNY and Benetton, Converse and again Gap. In 2009 she took part in Victoria’s Secret fashion show, where she made history by being the first Asian model to participate in this show.

In 2010 she was already the wwimage of Calvin Klein and becomes the first Asian face of Estée Lauder since the early 90s, quite an achievement to add to the many that this young and promising model has been making.

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HAIR & MAKEUP

The Hair Stylist is going to be the Birmingham born Paul Hanlon.

The hairstyle for the editorial will be based on a simple upsweep, uncomplicated and natural. With the effect that is given by the fan, the hair will look more natural.

The Makeup Artist is going to be the British Miranda Joyce.

The makeup is going to be natural, enhancing the eyebrows and the cheekbones of the model. With natural lips by using a nude color.

By using this natural look, the photos are going to embrace the minimalism that is wanted to transmit, is all about simplicity and being natural. “Less is More�

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LOCATION & PREPARATION

The location for the photoshoot will take place in a studio in London. The backgrounds will be plain orange a pale blue.

There will not be any added objects, just the model posing with the clothes.

Some materials that must be present in the studio is artificial lighting and a fan.

The photographer is going to be Collier Schorr, an American artist and fashion photographer known for his realism photographic that has worked for high fashion brands as Comme des Garรงons, Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Helmut Lang.

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TIME SCHEDULE

The photoshoot will start last 2:00 PM, so the meeting time will be by 1:15 PM to ensure that everyone is on time and that all the things are prepared. From 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM, the model will be with the hair and makeup artists who will be preparing her with the stylist also. During this two hours, they will be making her makeup and hair, as well as revising all the clothes and it fits.

By 4:00 - 4:15 PM the shooting will be starting.

As it is a capsule Collection and its just one model, it does not imply to last a lot, so by approximately 7:00 PM, the shooting is supposed to finish.

During this time range, lunch and snack breaks are included.

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ART DIRECTION

The art director has to focus on ensuring that simplicity stills being a must for the brand. This implies that the atmosphere is going to be simple and natural.

There will be a total of 8 outfits that are going to be used during the shooting.

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MODEL DIRECTION

For Liu Wen, the most important thing is how she will pose and what she will express. The poses have to be natural and showing confidence and comfortability through them. In some, she is going to put her hands in the pockets of the pants, and others might include crossing her arms or even touching her neck or lips using the shirt collar. It is about expressing naturalness and not using tense poses.

The facial expressions must be natural, some looking at the camera showing confidence, and others looking at the void. She must look like she is not worried about nothing, even looking good.

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POST SHOOTING

Processing The pictures must have a good mix of contrast, lighting, and exposure, so the ones that better represent better the contrast between the art/ vivid part and the simplicity will be chosen.

Retouching Retouching will be made by Photoshop to reach a better way of editing every single picture. As the pictures are going to be in color, by increasing the temperature of the color background, there will be a more noted contrast between the simplicity (which is represented by the model and the clothes as they are in b&w) and the art/vivid part (which is represented by the coloring background). Regarding the general editing of the model, it is not relevant as pictures must be natural and without a lot of editions to seem that they are not real.

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PAGE LAYOUT

The layout chosen has not followed any particular pattern; it is only based on a contrast between having small text frames, everything ubicated in the middle of the page, with big images regarding the following page. Some images may occupy the hole page while others are only in one part of the page. Some ideas about how to colocate the images have become from the layout used in the Acting Up Issue Fall 2017 nยบ346 of the i-D magazine.

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EDITORIAL PREVIEW

LOOK 1

LOOK 1

LOOK 2

LOOK 3

LOOK 4

LOOK 4

LOOK 6

LOOK 7

LOOK 7

LOOK 8

LOOK 9

LOOK 10

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LOOKBOOK

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MINISITE

The site Inside Acne Studios ( insideacnestudios.wordpress.com ) works as a place where the brand shows limited information about what the brand does. The extra content presented can be based on giving extra information about the collections that the brand does, where you can see images about behind the scenes, or even interviews with relevant people who collaborate with the brand.

It is about showing to the customers privileged information so they feel part of the brand and experience its brand transparency towards the audience.

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REFRENECES Acnestudios.com.

(2018). www.acnestudios.com. tps://www.acnestudios.com/be/en/about/about.html

[online] [Accessed

Available at: ht13 Jan. 2018].

Bodhi Branding Development. (2018). Acne Studios Target Market. [online] Available at: https:// laurenjuddbranding.wordpress.com/portfolio/acne-studios-target-market/ [Accessed 9 Jan. 2018].

Businessoffashion.com. (2018). Acne Studios | Discover Acne Studios’s Company Page | The Business of Fashion. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/companies/acne-studios [Accessed 10 Jan. 2018].

Clm-agency.com.

(2018).

CLM – Artist. [online] www.clm-agency.com/styling/clare-richardson [Accessed

Available at: 2 Jan.

http:// 2018].

Cochrane, L. (2018). Acne: 10 things you should know about the hot fashion brand. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/2013/jun/25/acne-10-things-fashion-brand [Accessed 7 Jan. 2018].

En.wikipedia.org.

(2018).

Acne Studios. [online] tps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acne_Studios [Accessed

Available 5 Jan.

at:

ht2018].

Fury, A. (2018). Acne Studios: Jonny Johansson has given the company’s clothing a sense. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/acne-studios-jonny-johansson-has-given-the-compan ys-clothing-a-sense-of-twisted-boredom-10117292.html [Accessed 9 Jan. 2018].

GQ. (2018). Acne Studios Founder Jonny Johansson Doesn’t Care If Drake and Rihanna Wear His Clothes. [online] Available at: https://www.gq.com/ story/acne-studios-designer-jonny-johansson-interview [Accessed 7 Jan. 2018].

Issuu. (2018). Brand Analysis - Acne. [online] suu.com/carlareinhard/docs/research_journal [Accessed

Available 1

at: Jan.

https://is2018].

Magazine, V. (2018). Stories Behind Acne Studios | Visual Magazine. [online] Visual Magazine. Available at: http://vslmag.com/en/stories-behind-acne-studios/ [Accessed 5 Jan. 2018].

MODELS.com.

(2018).

Liu Wen ble at: https://models.com/models/liu-wen

Model.

[Accessed

[online] 5 Jan.

MODELS.com. (2018). Miranda Joyce - Makeup Artist. [online] ble at: https://models.com/people/miranda-joyce [Accessed 3 Jan.

Availa2018].

Availa2018].

MODELS.com.

(2018).

Paul Hanlon Hair Stylist. ble at: https://models.com/people/paul-hanlon [Accessed

[online] 5 Jan.

Availa2018].

Numéro Magazine. (2018). A Meeting with the founder of Acne Studios, Jonny Johansson. [online] Available at: http://www.numero.com/en/ fashion/acne-studios-interview-Jonny-Johansson [Accessed 5 Jan. 2018].

Something About. (2018). The Evolution of ACNE Studios. [online] Available at: https://www.somethingaboutmagazine.com/evolution-acne-studios/ [Accessed 7 Jan. 2018].

The Business of Fashion. (2018). Jonny Johansson is One of the 500 People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry in 2017. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/jonny-johansson [Accessed 5 Jan. 2018].

The Rosenrot | For The Love of Avant-Garde Fashion. (2018). Defining Minimalism in Fashion: Part 2. [online] Available at: http://the-rosenrot. com/2013/09/defining-minimalism-in-fashion-part-2.html [Accessed 5 Jan. 2018].

Vogue.it. (2018). Designers who shaped 90s minimalism. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.it/ en/fashion/trends/2017/03/17/designers-who-shaped-90s-minimalism/ [Accessed 4 Jan. 2018].

LINKS: MINI SITE: https://insideacnestudios.wordpress.com ISSUU ACCOUNT: https://issuu.com/andreacondej ISSUU URL: https://issuu.com/andreacondej/docs/indesign_project