Thailand’s national park services play no part in the maintenance of climbing routes, and there isn’t significant participation or an organized effort by local climbing outfitters. Understandably, in a crowd scenario such as this, locals and visitors alike tend to diffuse responsibility, assuming someone else in the group will take action or has taken care of the issue. Early attempts to solve
the problem created more problems, as clusters of bolts appeared on some ascents where old bolts were not removed, causing dangerous confusion for climbers. Realizing that the consequences of inaction could mean a fatal accident, not to mention an intervention by local authorities, a handful of passionate climbers – many of
t h e m pioneers and responsible for a substantial number of ascents in the peninsula took matters into their own hands.
Enter the Solution: The Thaitanium Project
Story by: Emily Huang-Ramirez
Enter the Rock Climbing Mecca The Phranang Peninsula: It’s the pot of gold at the end of the rope rainbow; the pilgrimage every good sport climber should ascend to at least once in his or her life. Routes are well pocketed and steep, and a myriad of levels exist all within walking range. Throw in the backdrop of paradise, infused with an exotic culture and charming peoples, and it’s the makings of the perfect climbing holiday.
Naturally, such things have a seductive quality that unfortunately puts safety concerns on a backburner. It happens. And with so many climbers and guides about the area, perhaps it’s the crowd psychology phenomenon that deceives people into thinking that someone else has taken the precautions to ensure a safe holiday. So the question remains, what’s at risk and who’s taking care of it?
Enter the Problem Although there have been no reported deaths related to climbing in Railay and Tonsai, there have been enough accidents and near misses in the past decade for climbers to notice that something unusual was happening, in particular with the bolts. Veteran climbers repeatedly returning to Railay and Tonsai were seeing bolt failure at exacerbated rates. Trusted bolts used all over the world were unable to uphold the same longevity here, with some bolts expected to last a decade being compromised in less than two years. Some bolts showed signs of rust and corrosion but seemed to hold, while others appeared shiny and durable yet snapped off easily. It quickly became apparent that visual inspection fell far short of definitively identifying failed bolts, let alone the source
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of the failure. Suddenly, the enormity of Railay and Tonsai’s bolt problem emerged. ‘Stain-less’ is not a misnomer; stainless steel is named so because it is highly resistant to corrosion and rust by water. There are different grades of stainless steel to suit different environmental needs, ranging from structural components of large buildings and bridges, to cutlery in the kitchen and surgical instruments. However, stainless steel doesn’t mean ‘stain-impossible.’ Thus, forget everything you think you know about stainless steel climbing bolts, because the rules do not apply here. The unique terrain and climate of Phranang Bay create an exclusive formula for what
is called Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC). At a very basic level, high amounts of precipitation allow water to sit in crevices inside the limestone. Abundant vegetation on the cliff contributes high amounts of carbon dioxide to this water, creating a very acidic microclimate. What then follows is a high concentration of magnesium on the bolts, which in turn allows for an abnormally high amount of chloride ion concentration. This essentially finds weaknesses within the metal of the bolt, and corrosion begins. Add in the high heat and this corrosion occurs at an accelerated rate. In effect, the same chemistry that makes the cliffs a great place for sport climbing is also the source of the problem for climbers.
In the beginning, the road to a conclusive diagnosis of the problem was long, and came out of pocket. Several analyses and failed attempts later, a solution materialized: Titanium bolts. Unlike stainless steel, Titanium does not rust, is not
susceptible to the same corrosive forces, and meets existing international standards for strength. Additionally, marine glue used to set and seal the bolts isolates it from metal and chemical corrosives in the rock, as well from the marine environment.
which drives costs up. As for labor, it is completed on a voluntary basis only. All participants, including Josh, work for free, and all because they understand that to keep this paradisiacal playground safe and accessible, someone has to take initiative.
The simple fact that lives were at risk was the impetus for this massive re-bolting project. The clever play on words was given to the project only a few years ago, but it began as a casual existence over twelve years ago. Founder, Josh Lyons, along with fellow climbers and advocates have been returning to Thailand annually to continue the re-bolting project, which also entails removal of compromised bolts – neither of which are easy tasks. Along some routes, multiple bolts are in place, as old bolts were not removed (in such cases, shiny does not always mean safe, and it is recommended to go for the bolts with red glue).
In recent years, Josh completed a wellfilmed documentary about the project to raise awareness and procure funding. Sold at climb shops on Tonsai and Railay Beach as well as a downloadable version on their website, the film takes a comprehensive look at the issue, the history of the project, and a thrilling peek into the labor of love. 100% of the proceeds from sales of the documentary go towards purchasing bolts and equipment. Clearly, this venture is for sheer love of sport climbing and the community it fosters.
Overall, the process is time-consuming, expensive, and dangerous. Aside from acquiring Titanium bolts – which cost approximately USD$10 – the process requires specialized glue and equipment
“The goal is create the safest environment we can, so whatever it takes, it’s worth it,” fellow climber Sam Lightner, Jr. spoke candidly in the film. “It’s too fantastic to get shut down. This place is beyond magical.”
Enter You As of May 2013, half of the re-bolting of Phranang Bay has been completed with many popular routes now safely rebolted. Required funding is estimated at USD$100,000 and this milestone is still far off. Josh’s goal for this summer is to secure sponsorship by presenting the project to outdoor equipment and construction companies, but private donations (monetary and equipment) and volunteering are still highly valuable to the success of the project, as is spreading the word. Any and all volunteers are welcome. There is no application process, simply contact Josh via the website or just show up and
ask around. Anyone keenly interested is put through a mentoring process and a few days of training to learn their particular system before being put up on the rock. Participating in the project is a unique opportunity to complement an epic climbing adventure by being a part of a worthwhile cause, and giving back to the community that makes these adventures possible. Bolt failure in the Phranang Bay is not solely a Thai problem, but an international one. Sport climbing brings people together from all over the world, so accordingly the responsibility of keeping it safe rests on everyone. Lives depend on it.
If you wish to purchase the documentary, make a donation, or contact Josh Lyons, please visit www.thaitaniumproject. com. They can also be found on Facebook.
Lastly, thanks to Josh Lyons and team, and the hundreds of donors and volunteers for the monumental work that they do. This community is lucky to have you all and we sincerely applaud your efforts.
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