Street style

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Project Research The aim of this module is to identify, research, and propose an exciting, challenging Fashion Communication concept that has the potential to inform an original and individual final year project.

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Ang Yen Chein 14037756 Project Research Semester 1 BA (Hons) Fashion Communication University of Northumbria 2014/2015

STREETSTYLE The Influences of China Street Style on Western Fashion

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List of Contents 1. INTRODUCTION 3 2. METHODOLOGY 4 2.1

PRIMARY RESEARCH 4

2.2

SECONDARY RESEARCH

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3.

DEFINITION OF ‘STREET STYLE’

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WHY STREET STYLE MATTERS?

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STREET STYLE

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5.1

ORIGINS

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5.2 DEVELOPMENT

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5.3

CURRENT KEY TREND SETTERS

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5.4

FUTURE

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EVOLUTION OF CHINA STREET STYLE 12

6.1

DEVELOPMENT

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6.2

CURRENT KEY TREND SETTERS

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INFLUENCE OF CHINA STREET STYLE ON WESTERN FASHION

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7.1

ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION

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7.2

THE FUTURE POTENTIAL GROWTH OF CHINA STREET STYLE

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8.

CONCLUSION

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9.

REFERENCE LIST

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Introduction “Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening”. by CoCo Chanel.

The focus of this report is Street Style or street fashion and it is significant to the fashion industry as it’s a source of inspiration for designers and has gone viral largely due to the massive usage of social media.

Street style is a western concept which has arisen not from the catwalk or from fashion magazines but from the grassroots and is generally associated with individualism, youth culture and mostly experienced in urban centres.

In todays fashion, trends are not only dictated by the fashion show but by many different ways, through the Internet and through social networking which has meant that reporting of what was once small and localized street styles is now rapid and global. The print media has also given a helping hand to promote every minor fashion street style exhibition to every corner of the world.

One of the places where street style has also arisen recently is China, where its unique blend of culture and art has resulted in its own interpretation of street style.

Due to the rapid change in the Chinese economy, it is crucial to the fashion industry to research the impact of China Street style on Chinese and western fashion brands.

The aim of this report is therefore to investigate whether and how China Street style influences western fashion and by analysis of the literature and incorporating results obtained from the interview sessions.

The research topic was conducted by performing Primary research by performing an interview with a selection of people working in the fashion industry. Secondary research was conducted carrying out a detailed literature review in the areas of Western Street Style and China Street Style.

Finally this report highlights any conclusions gained from the research and presents some recommendations for further research in this field.

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Methodology 2.1

Primary Research

Primary research was carried out to answer specific issues or questions related to Street Style and involved performing interviews with two professionals from the fashion industry- Greg Lee (Fashion Consultant & Fashion Buyer) and Tereneh Mosley (Founder of Idia’Dega & former assistant Professor at the Parsons School of Design). The question and answer asked are listed in Appendix A.

2.2 Secondary Research Secondary research was conducted by making use of information publicly available for the purposes of this work. The information used in this work includes blogs, videos, books, newspapers and magazines.

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For this report it is important to define ‘Street style’ to be used as a context for analysis before commencing review of the history of Street Style and whether Chinese Street Style has an influence on Western fashion.

To define what is street style we need to define ‘Street’ and ‘Style’.

Street- Nowadays ‘street’ can be the very powerful public arena where people can portray their fashion sense and individualism, without any restriction for them to express themselves in any kind of style that they want to.

According to the freedictionary.com style is- 1. a way of expressing something that is characteristic of a particular person or group of people or period” or 2. “a manner or way of doing something”.

'Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.' – Rachel Zoe Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.' Orson Welles

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Definition of

“Street Style” From the review of the literature and blogs, Street Style can be defined as : Street Style (or Street Fashion) is fashion that has emerged from the streets and not from runways shows or designers and has its origins in youth culture. Street style is personal and does not refer to a particular kind of style but covers a range of styles which are unique and created by the individuals who developed them.

(Fashioncentral.asia, 2014) and (Messycloset.com, 2014). Also Street Style can be something that has been customised or in some peoples opinion “destroyed” to fully express someones personality (MissStevieGiovanni, 2013).

According to Dictionary.com it can also be seen as controversial.

The above Street style definition covers Western and Chinese Street style. The only difference is the location, e.g Western street style is based upon the four main fashion capitals (London, Paris, New York and Milan). Chinese Street style only covers China and does not include other countries such as South Korea or Japan.

Street style can be either high fashion or street wear but it does not mean it is high fashion or street wear (street style is a form or phenomenon that occurs on the street, it is not a particular kind of fashion or style).

There is a need to define what is Street Style as reader may

confuse between street style, street fashion and streetwear.

Street Style and street fashion can be considered the same.

On the other hand, Streetwear is different from Street Style or Street Fashion and according to Wikepedia, 2014 it is a distinctive style of street fashion, with roots in surf and skate culture, it has developed to include elements of hip hop, Japanese street, and modern Haute couture fashion.

The focus of this report will be Street Style as defined by above.

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Why Street Style matters?

Street Style is important in todays fashion industry and according to Beesley, 2013 it’s a key part that inspires creativity in both the high end and high street fashion industry and sets trends. In addition and most importantly Street Style can be unique and can be an art form itself.

Street Style photographs can also play an integral role in terms of injecting a trend into real life. Fashion experts feel it is important to see how people truly implement fashion ideas into their clothes and this is exactly what they are trying to achieve. Exaggerated Haute couture from what we can see from the runway show does not trigger such an inspiration to designers (Mashable, 2013).

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Street Style 5.1 Origins

The root of Street Style is most likely based upon history of ‘tribes’ and ‘subcultures’ which use a distinctive style of dress and decoration. Examples include Zooties, Goths and Lolitas which still exist to some extent today.

However by time the importance of old groupings of class, religion, region and ethnic background have lessened in importance allowing individuals to express freely their true feeling through clothing (Tedpolhemus.com, 2014).

It is widely known and believed that New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham started and popularized the modern day Street Style by snapping candid photographs of people walking on the streets of Manhattan every day, focusing on their genuine usage of clothing to express personal style and uniqueness in the circa 1970’s, but it wasn’t until the 1990’s that it gained greater recognition (Ferrier, 2014). His subjects were very diverse as the and truly represented fashions of the period, even though people in his photographs may be considered less fashion-focused. More photojournalist than portraitist, Cunningham’s work was incredibly important in documenting the happenings of that time (Wang, 2012).

Bil Cunningham , The Sartorialist

“We’re in the age of the cookie-cutter sameness.

There are few that are rarities, someone who doesn’t look like 10 million others,”

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5.2 Development Cunningham’s passion on women dressing had urged him to hide himself somewhere in the corner for long hours just wishing for snapping of passerby(Nytimes.com, 2014). The first publishing was in Metropolitan report of a series of documented candid shots by Cunningham. Since then, the explosion in street style has been fairly rapid, with hugely influential blogs such as The Sartorialist launching in 2005 (Ferrier, 2014). Scott Schuman is the founder of The Sartorialist which attracts

70,000

hits a day and is also the photographer of the blog publishing images with the concept of communicating the relationships between the fashion world and daily life. His aim was to provide a platform for designers to get inspired through his photographs (Wikipedia, 2014).

www.thesartorialist.com In 2007, Time magazine nominated Scott Schuman, as one of the most influential figures in design, while an exhibition late last year at Colette, the high-end Parisian boutique, paid homage to the best fashion photography blogs in the first exhibition of its kind (Fashion.telegraph.co.uk, 2014).

Following The Sartorialist based in New York, The Facehunter is one of the rising fashion blogs that features street-fashion photography and focuses on style rather than brands and labels. It encourages individuality and publicizes the fashion uniqueness and authenticity of the anonymous.

It first appeared on the world wide web in 2006 and provided a fresh counterweight to the massmedia’s focus on celebrity fashion style, which has control of fashion coverage.

These blogs are now a daily dose for many people especially for those fashion experts such as Paul Smith and Net-a-Porter founder, Natalie Massenet.

It has become an essential routine in life to check out who are the regular fashionista’s on the street or more interestingly to discover a new style.

(Fashion.telegraph.co.uk, 2014) Street style photography has been a major factor in popularizing the appeal of street style through its uniqueness, authenticity and creativity.

Photographers promoting street style include such names as Yvan Rodic, Tommy Ton and Philip Oh being commissioned to photograph street style for the major fashion magazines. (Ferrier, 2014) It seems that street style today matters more than ever.

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5.3 Current key trend setters In spite of street styles storming today’s fashion world, fashion designers continue to dominate the on going trend on the catwalk. Designers claim that street style photographs may be one of the many ways that drive them further in terms of creativity but concept and ideas of the design are formed base on their feelings. “We all design according to what we see around us, It might just be a feeling that happens between each season,” explains UK designer Jonathan Saunders. “We use it as inspiration,” Krampel said. “Whether it’s details or silhouettes, even color trends, it helps us have a view on what seems to be the new hot items.” Rachel Zeilic, owner and designer of directional juniors’ line, Style Stalker, agreed.

It is crucial for buyers, designers, product developers to utilize researchers who observe what is actually being worn on the streets. So says Jami Krampel, who researches what’s happening on the street for the Vince Camuto design team.

Street Style photographers can give an international view in the present and in the future for the forthcoming trends, which in tail can give designers both inspiration and assurance.

“It’s not about what’s out there and making that the trend, it’s about analyzing what’s new, and that’s where it’s important an authoritative voice comes in,” Solomon said. “The cool girls for instance aren’t wearing denim anymore, they’re wearing sportswear. They’re not seen in torn and ripped denim jeans or shorts, but in Alexander Wang’s knit Fu r t h e r m o r e , drawstring track other than talking “the best street style photographers don’t just pants. That’s the about something bottom, that’s imaginative like shoot anything, but have their finger on the the new jean. emotions, there It’s a strong are more concrete pulse of what’s new.” diversion from reasons that affect what people trend of the year. expect.”

Catwalks from main fashion cities like Paris, Street Style sometimes turns out incredibly awful Milan and New York City etc may appear to have but it is still useful for the design team to make many similarities in colours and fabrication due comparison and justification in order to make it to the type of fashion material that has been sellable in the mass market. Interpreting which forecasted and produced. “The similarities you of those messes are true tastemakers is the real see between many designers are due to the skill. (Mashable, 2013) textile industry,” says Elizabeth Chon, head of Upcoming trends can be easily traced and global trends at Maybelline New York. “The yarn spread quicker than you can imagine through industry has to forecast colours even further out social media, it could be just by a few clicks to than the fashion houses and a lot of designers catch it before it hits the street. But for a trend shop from the same fabric, thread and trim to really take off, it will have to be appealing manufacturers.” “Our colour forecaster teams to a large number of people. Anything too work up to two years ahead of the seasons,” says divisive is likely to stay on the margins. “I have Sue Evans, senior editor at WGSN. to consider the commerciality of a trend before I determine which ones to back,” says Liberty Our think-tank editors are also researching London’s womanswear buyer Stephanie Jones. consumer attitudes, up to two years ahead – those colour palettes and consumer trends Some people might seem more interested on are then developed into macro-trends, which following trends from fashion blog but there are worked on about 18 months ahead of the are still a lot of people who are fond for fashion season.” (Au.lifestyle.yahoo.com, 2014) shows rather than a 2D image.

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From the review of the literature it can be seen that Street Style is becoming an important source of inspiration for designers. The cycle of forming an upcoming trend is that a photographer takes shots of what he/she perceives as a trend on Street Style., this is then passed to a established bloggers who then review and post on their blogs. The blogs are then viewed by various designers for inspiration.

According to Stephanie Solomon, photographers must identify current trend before they take any pictures and they cannot just submit photographs to the fashion industry people based upon what they prefer. (Mashable, 2013)

5.4 Future Street style has promoted the establishment of individual style and has injected life into the fashion world (Singh, 2012), however according to Wang, 2012 Street style may become more commercialised and add driven similar to what has happened to personal style blogs and fashion in general.

Street style is facing some serious issues related to questions of authenticity and individuality as potential subjects become more and more commercially aware and influenced by the publicity gained from Street Style photographers and blogs. This kind of self consciousness harms the originality of Street Style. (Singh, 2012).

The subjects that promote Street style are nowadays tending to promote their style at the fringes of the major fashion weeks such as London Fashion Week.

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Evolution of China Street Style

6.1 Development Street Style in China developed much later than in the West and in the early 2000’s meant a “pantyhose rolled to the ankles or t-shirts rolled above the belly”. P1 a Beijing based social media website has photographed the change in street style over the decade and its analysis shows that from 2007 onwards street fashion changed from a focus on designer brands to one of personal style (Burkitt, 2014).

P1 was founded in 2007 by Wang Yu and Sophie Pan, two offspring of Chinese political families and has over some 6 million street-style photographs in its archive (Levy, 2013).

As early as in 2007, there were few people, who dressed with style especially wearing something unique and individual. “People are building on their own ideas of what’s cool rather than relying on prototype built by brands,” Quote by Svante Jerling, P1’s marketing director. People mostly wore designer labels without the sense of being distinctive, as the focus was social status.

Source of information has always been the main factor that influences Chinese fashion and before 2007 fashion magazines were the key source of fashion ideas which were generally unaffordable.

However the rise of digital culture and social networking have given more chance for people to explore the fashion world. China started off as a main distributor of imitation fashion goods, evolved by having one of the world’s largest e-commerce websites in the world (Taobao) producing its own affordable design items. (Jingdaily.com, 2014).

One of the major blogs that promote Street style in China include Stylites.net which was started in 2007, by Niels Fry, Creative Director, with the taking of a photograph of a man dressed individually in street style.

Another street style blog started in approximately 2010 (www.theshanghaiexpress.com) is run by Shanghai based, Roy Zhang who is a professional photographer and fashion blogger. His blog has captured many examples of individual China Street style within various bustling urban areas of China.

According to Jingdaily.com, 2014, nowadays, people wear fashion to promote their personality; “it is a quest toward self actualization”. This seems to mirror the change in fashion development that happened in the West in the 1970’s and in Japan in the 1980s.

Also according to Burkitt, 2014 the change of fashion style has been due to increased exposure to external fashion styles from all over the world, which is attributed to increased travel amongst affluent Chinese. Due to greater travel the Chinese have been more willing to accept what is new and have a greater passion for individuality.

Finally, it appears that Chinese fashion is gaining more prestige as the spring 2015 Costume Institute exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art will be much dedicated to Chinese fashion.

China: Through the Looking Glass, will be at The costume center and will display Chinese inspired costumes from designers such as Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent,Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, and Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “The West’s interest in China seems to be intensifying, and China’s cultural influence on the West also seems to have reached new heights,” Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton told the paper about staging the exhibit now. (Racked NY, 2014)

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P1 website, Shanghai

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6.2 Current key trend setters

Current key trendsetters in China are most probably the designers similar to what occurs in the West.

New up and coming designers are also playing a greater role in Chinese fashion and they are gaining popularity with their unique creations in their home country and abroad (BBC Culture , 2014).

Some of the names mentioned in the BBC article include Huishan Zhang, Xander Zhou, Xiao Li and Yang Li. Huishan Zhangs who studied in London and has worked for Dior style has been described as “Chinese tradition meets Western influence and modernity.”

From the literature review it is not clear how much of an inspiration Chinese designers gain from China Street Style or from Western Street Style.

However according to (Blog.chinainternetguru.com, 2013), the stereotype of the Chinese consumer only focusing Western high end brands like Louis Vuitton or Gucci is now a thing of the past. The current trend is that Chinese are now looking more to their own culture and are searching for for brands that “connect to their own roots directly”. An example is Shanghai Tang which is an international clothing chain company founded in 1994 by Hong Kong businessman David Tang and the brand is noted for its use of bright colours and its key design concept is inspired by 1920s Cheongsam combined with the modernity of the 21st century.

Furthermore, P1 revealed its findings on fashion trends data through an exhibition that held in Beijing called ‘The great Style Leap’ to show how Chinese are using street-style photography that have taken to track fashion trends and to reveal how fashion style has changed from the past until 2013. “By looking at pictures, you can follow that change.” Jerling says. (Tech in Asia, 2013).

The exhibition in China, was a new and fresh idea and was a commemoration of the development of individuality.

We also want to show the world what is Chinese fashion and style. For the first time, China is moving from being the country where fashion is produced on mass to a country where global fashion styles and trends can originate. While a lot of the world thinks there aren’t many fashionable people here, the truth is that China could be an international style influencer in the next few years. (Technode, 2013)

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Influence of China Street Style on Wes ter n fas h ion

7.1 Analysis and Discussion According to Max Berlinger, The Business of Fashion, 2014 more and more fashion bloggers are preferring to promote high-end fashion brands to their followers in the West. This has resulted in the true meaning of street style fading away which in turn has lead to the current vague definition of the interpretation of what street style truly represents in the West.

As Street Style in the West may be slowly fading from its peak due to photographers tend to capture street style under the spotlight or bloggers strive to create brand awareness post to please fellow designers, therefore the true impact of Western street style on Western Fashion may be in doubt, however the opposite is the case for China where there is still huge interest in this area and Street Style has yet to reach its full potential.

One of the driving forces of the promotion of China Street Style has been the social media website P1, which has collated many millions of photographs of Street Style through website users and its team of photographers. The data from this site is ready to contribute to the major fashion houses like Vogue, Dior etc but the true use and extent of influence from the pictures maybe uncertain.

In addition it has been difficult to determine from the literature the true extent of influence of China Street Style on home grown and Western Fashion, as China Street Style are still on its infancy although at the top-tier cities like Beijing and Shanghai has already adopted this fashion movement but there may still be a aspect of conservative culture in the Chinese society which constrain self-expression through their dressing at the second-tier or third-tier cities. This has resulted in a situation of growth retention in street style.

Meanwhile Greg Lee, which was one of the interviewees for this project commented that Western Street Style has had an influence on China Street Style in terms of fashion and styling and the promotion of fashion business. On the other hand regarding influence of China Street Style on Western Fashion Greg does not think any influence has occurred but feels major fashion brands are inspired to adopt Chinese culture.

Tereneh the other interviewee who is personally inspired by Street Style, states that Western style has an influence worldwide including China, where there is a large demand to own western luxury goods, which is in agreement with input from Greg Lee. In addition Terenah mentions that most trends appear from either NY, Paris, Milan or London however this may shift in 21st Century.

Regarding influence of China Street Style on Western Fashion, Tereneh states that it would be hard to identify specific street trends that have originated from China. Tereneh thinks that the Chinese Media may have a part to play in this. However she thinks that this may however change with time due to the stronger economic power in China.

The input from the two interviewees is largely in agreement with input gained from the secondary research, however additional data needs to be gathered from more interviewees to fully understand the current situation.

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7.2 The future potential growth of China Street Style

It is well known worldwide that China has prospered significantly since opening of the countries economy (1980’s onwards), which has enabled people to speak for themselves through what they wear. This has also lead to the development of China Street Style.

Linbao from Newstimes China, who is a fashion street style enthusiast and founder of china street style eye-store believes that Chinese will soon become more and more fashionable along with the increasing variety of foreign fashion brands.

Chinese people are very used to get their fashion inspiration from various kinds of western fashion blogs and western fashion idols.

China street style is evolving and Beijing city itself is a suitable place for Street Style photography to take place. This city has it own characteristic and it is the most populous cities in the world which is good for developing Street Style. Furthermore, the future of the China Street Style is conspicuous due to the buoyant economy growth and paints a optimistic picture. (Tengxunfashion, 2009).

In addition, Roy Zhang, from Shanghai in Jing Daily, 2014 expresses that China has many diverse cities and that increasing migration to major urban centres from within China and abroad has helped the rise of China Street Style.

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Conclusion The Influence of China Street Style on Western Fashion was investigated as part of this report. The main findings are that China Street Style has only recently been gaining ground and evolving with the establishment of social media websites such as P1 and with the growth in Street Style Photographers such as Roy Zhang.

China Street Style is still in a development phase and its infancy in the major cities, and less common in the second and third tier cities due to Chinese cultural aspects.

The extent of influence of China Street Style on Western fashion could not be determined through the primary or secondary research, but its maybe possible to say there is sufficient Chinese Street Style data available for fashion houses to pass on to their fashion designers.

The West started being individualistic on the street but now they are facing a threat where the true meaning of Street Style is being distorted. On the other hand China Street style has changed from a focus on brand logos (from top to toe) to a fashion style that is created from themselves. Although majority of the Chinese are still very particular to showing status in society by buying branded goods.

What needs to happen to make Chinese fashion influence stronger is more innovation to create brands like Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

Additional work is required to be performed to fully understand the extent of influence of China Street on fashion (China or western).

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Future Work: Due to the limited research period for this work and lack of responses to the Street Style Questionnaire, it is recommended that additional work be done in the following areas to fully realize the influence of China Street style on Western Fashion: 1.

Issue of the Questionnaire as listed in Appendix X, to a wider variety of people working in the fashion industry (West and China) including, fashion designers, Fashion buyers, fashion bloggers etc.

Where possible also interview key people in the fashion industry to understand their opinion on this matter.

2.

Perform a more thorough literature review to determine Chinese books, magazines and blogs that cover history, developments and future of China Street Style.

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Hold a focus group encompassing 5-6 fashion photographers from Western countries to discuss and to determine how does western fashion changed by time. Emphasizing on influences from china street style.  

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References

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