Intelligent Garment Dissertation

INTELLIGENT G ARMENTS A STUDY INTO THE AMALGAMATION OF TECHNOLOGY, SCIENCE & DESIGN FORMING THE NEXT GENERATION OF SMART WEARABLES.

ANGELICA ZARI BA(HONS) FASHION BUSINESS AND PROMOTION FAS6050: PERSEPCTIVES DISSERTATION 18/12/15

ABSTRACT A new dialogue between the human body and clothing is unfolding. Driven by fashion’s potential to function as a technological device, radical interpretations of design are giving way to revolutionary technologically embedded capabilities, set to push current humanistic boundaries. As the Smart Clothing market grows in value, increased attention originating from both brands and consumers is occurring. Increase in intrigue is triggering questions concerning the issues of a highly integrated product being so close to the human body and the subsequent changes in human behaviours as a result of the exposure to the capabilities Smart Clothing produces. This study focuses on investigating the key challenges the industry is facing when attempting to create smart garments eligible for mass consumption and the subsequent shifts in behaviours. Wearables have already been adopted to a certain degree but the potential is far greater, as is evidenced throughout this study. Despite other elements currently affecting the adoption of smart clothing such as price, washability etc. The significance of this research lies within understanding the publics perceptions of Smart Clothing. By utilising both primary and secondary research this study also aims to provide insight into that element and to explore the motives driving the rise in consumer demand. Ultimately this sudy intends to increase the understanding of the Smart Clothing product, to drive interest, to then further research and development.

This heightens the chances of discovering potential solutions to the key issues currently preventing Smart Garments from entering the Mass Market .

Word Count: 8,762

Erica Kermani - Director of Community Engagment at Eyebeam. For always being willing to help and forwarding useful contacts.

Adele Thorley - Dissertation Tutor. Who’s support and indepth knowledge has aided me significantly throughout this disseration.

Richard Colson Sasha De Koninck Jane Grice Natalie Zari

Alison Rapsey - Course Director. For her ongoing support and enthusiam throughout this dissertation

For participating in interviews and giving invaluable insight used to support this dissertation.

Adam Francis - For all his help with the creative aspects of the project.

Finally, all the participants who completed the online survey for this study.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

iii

iv

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to give thanks to the following people for their contribution and guidance throughout this study.

CONTENTS ABSTRACT ACKNOWLEDGMENTS CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES LIST OF FIGURES GLOSSARY OF TERMS

INTRODUCTION METHODOLOGY

1.0 CHAPTER 1

1.1 Defining Smart Clothing 1.2 The evolution of SMCG 1.3 The Emerging Market

10 11 13 15

3.0

i iii v vii viii

CHAPTER 3

ix

3.1 The Technologies 3.2 Smart Textiles 3.3 The Capabilities 3.31 Health & Wellbeing 3.32 Social Communication

1 5

2.0 CHAPTER 2

2.1 The Mass Market 2.2 Consumer Demand 2.3 Generation i

18

19 21 25

5.0 CHAPTER 5

4.0 CHAPTER 4

28

4.1 Aesthetics & Functionality 4.2 Energy on the Body 4.3 Data Security

4.4 Public Perception

29 33 37 38 41

58

CONCLUSION RECOMMENDATIONS

67 69 71 76

REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY APPENDICES

xi

vi

48

50 53 54 55

1 - Online Survey Code

2 - Online Survey Comments Coding Table 3 - Strucutred Interviews Coding Sample 4 - Hisotry of Smart Clothing 5 - Smart Wearable Shipments 6 - Input Interfaces 7 - Output Interfaces 8 - Smart Textile Intelligence 9 - Technology Acceptance 10 - Theory of Tech Adoption Process 11 - Programming of the Human Brain

LIST OF TABLES

vii

7 8 8 14 22 30 31 35 56 59 65

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

Hands in smart gloves Gloved hand holding microchip Girl in bio top Woman in hat Electrodes

Unseen wind project Fingers touching Smart Textile Fabric in hand Generation i graphic Conducitve fabrics Condictive Thread Bio Couture logo Ralph Lauren Polo Tech Shirt Ralph Lauren App Screenshots Dancer in Biologic top Biologic material Fabric & Microchip Project Jaquard graphic Fabric & phone Electronics Arm in sleeve Industrial Loom Project Jaquard Computer Project Jaquard fabric Computation dress design Computational top design Arm with medical chip Microhip on fabric Neural Pathway A Neural Pathway B Neural Pathway C Neural Pathway D Human Brain Gaze Project Water on Smart Textile

viii

1 3 6 12 15 20 22 24 26 29 34 36 39 39 40 40 42 43 44 44 44 44 45 45 49 51 53 56 61 61 62 62 66 68 70

LIST OF FIGURES

TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE TABLE

FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE FIGURE

ry, judgement and reasoning.

WGSN - Worth Global Style Network, is a global trends forecasting service.

Eyebeam - An organisation that endevaours to bring design and technology together.

Conductive Yarns - Yarns that conduct electricity Consumer Apptetite - A consumers level of demand for a specific product.

TED - Technology, Entertainment, Design. A nonprofit, devoted to spreading ideas through conference style talks

Generation I - Members of the population born after 2002.

Hybrid Professionals - A proffessional of multiple discplines.

Adoption - Taking on or aquiring something.

Jaquard Weave - A weave produced on a specific loom, characterised by complex woven designs.

Augmentation - Refers to the technologies that enhance human productivity or capability Cognitive - The mental processes of perception, memo-

Mass Market - An unsegmented market in which ix

products with mass appeal are offered to all consumers. Alternatively the phrase is used to refer to a product that is made to appeal to as many people as possible.

Public Perception - The belief or opinion of the general public.

Mass Market Consumer - Refers to a large market of consumers with varied backgrounds.

Sensors - A device which detects or measures a phhysical property and records &/or responds to it.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

LS:N - LS:N Global is a subscription based service developed by The Future Labratory. It delivers insight market and consumer drivers, shaping the future across a wide variety of industries , globally.

R&D - Research and Development

Microprocessors - An integrated circuit that contains all the functions of a central processing unit of a computer.

Smart Garment - Technologically integrated device which augments the functionality of clothing.

Microwatts - A unit used to measure power.

Survey Monkey - An online survey company.

Nanotechnologies - The engineering of functional systems at a molecular scale.

USP - Unique Selling Point, a factor that differentiates a products from its competitors.

Public - Of or concerning people as a whole. x

Due to the growing market potential, an increase in interest has caused questions to emerge surrounding the subject of Smart Clothing in terms of; the data security, the health implications of having energy so close to the human body, the wash-ability of the product etc. Whilst many studies and reports have been produced directing their explorations into the practical and historical theories behind Smart Clothing, little attention has been paid to the challenges being faced and the altercations to human behaviours as a result of Smart Clothing entering the Mass Market. As more and more people are becoming interested in the ever expanding field of smart textiles (Sabine Seymour, 2009) the greater the need for further investigation.

INTRODUCTION Technology is constantly evolving and changing the everyday lives of the consumer. The continuation of this evolution is causing a rise in hybrid professionals educated in both science, technology and design to emerge (Eyebeam, 2014). These professionals are attempting to create intelligent garments by utilising the innovations occurring within Smart Textile production. The global market for Smart Textiles is predicted to grow to £13.2 billion by 2018, up from £4.6 billion in 2012 (Statista, 2015), highlighting the potential market growth of the Smart Garment product. Collaborations from renowned brands such as, Intel and Open ceremony, Google and Levi’s are also aiding in the growth of the market as the product reaches a wider demographic, which in turn increases interest and potential purchasing. Currently Smart Accessories e.g. wristbands, watches are the most desirable Smart Wearable, however Smart Garments are becoming increasingly seamless and connected which is causing interest to shift from the Smart Accessory to the Smart Garment.

This study will focus specifically on the health and wellbeing and social communication capabilities formed by Smart Garments, and the behavioural shifts this will cause within humans. An investigation into the challenges designers are facing when attempting to create Smart Garments eligible for mass consumption will also occur within this study, allowing for the exploration into the industry’s ability to shift smart garments away from its conceptual infancy and into the mass market. The study is divided into 5 key elements which then fuse together to create the exploration into the amalgamation of technology, science and design potentially forming the next generation of Smart Wearables.

Chapter 1 succinctly defines the term “Smart Clothing” and focuses on the evolution of Smart Clothing and the emerging market.

Chapter 2 will examine whether at present there is sizeable demand and what the key drivers and motives are for this demand.

This chapter also discusses the potential of Generation I becoming the key adopter of Smart Clothing products within the Mass Market. Chapter 3 sets out to explain the technicalities of Smart Clothing and its varying capabilities specifically within the Health and Wellbeing and Social Communication sectors. Chapter 4 investigates a few of the key issues of creating Smart Garments that will appeal to the mass consumer, primary research gives invaluable insight into the consumer’s current perceptions of Smart Clothing and what would deter them from purchasing the product. With the addition of industry experts highlighting the key issues with regards to garment construction. Finally, Chapter 5 explores the potential positive and negative effects of having technology increasingly integrated into everyday life and closer to the human body.

This dissertation is of relevant significance as consumers and industry need to be aware of, and understand new products that are emerging onto the market. Consumers and industry must obtain levels of understanding; why the products are being developed, what they are being developed for and the implications of this in order to take appropriate action.

(Fig. 1)

2

AIM

(Fig. 2)

To explore the key issues surrounding smart clothing entering the mass market & the subsequent effects this will have on human capabilities & behaviour.

OBJECTIVES

HYPOTHESIS

TO INVESTIGATE the current consumer demand for Smart Clothing and its capabilities.

It is expected to be evidenced within this study that the Smart Garment Market is growing and with it consumer demand for the product. By highlighting to the consumer how the product will benefit them, this will allow the consumer to identify the need and value of the Smart Garment. An additional focus on increasing consumer knowledge and aesthetic appeal and decreasing price points, will result in the rise of consumption and see the Smart Garment enter the Mass Market.

3

TO EXPLORE the variation of capabilities created by Smart Clothing.

TO ASSESS the challenges of creating Smart Clothing eligible for mass consumption .

TO INVESTIGATE the shift in human behaviours as a result of the emergence of Smart Clothing.

4

METHODOLOGY Primary and Secondary research were utilised throughout this study to provide information that allowed the fulfilment of the stated aims and objectives. A mixed method approach was used within the research, allowing both qualitative and quantitative data to be collected. This ensured that a variety of data was being used to create a well informed and rational exploration.

(Fig. 3)

PRIMARY RESEARCH

SECONDARY RESEARCH

Information was sourced from credible; books, videos, online resources and specialist trend websites. The information collated from these secondary sources curated the foundation for the discussion within this study. This then aided in the development of primary research as gaps and inconsistencies were uncovered.

Stated below are some of the specific secondary resources used throughout an ongoing literature review.

Books : “Fashionable Technology” by Sabine Seymour describes the technicalities of the technologies within Smart Clothing extremely logically and contributed significantly to the research found within this study.

“Business Research Methods” by Bryman & Bell assisted in the understanding and implementation of Primary research.

Videos : A TED Talk by Sherry Turkle “Connected, but alone” helped significantly with this study especially within Chapter 5. “The Next Black – A film about the future of clothing” by AEG also aided greatly.

Online Resources : Many reliable online resources were used to assist this study, notably Eyebeams publication “Computational Fashion” which was also edited by Sabine Seymour.

Market Reports : Gartner reports were analysed to collate statistical and factual information.

Specalist Trend Websites : LSN Global and WGSN contributed substantial consumer insight.

Primary research was conducted in the forms of an online survey, 3 structured internet mediated interviews and 1 face-toface semi-structured interview. These mixed methods were used to gain new insight and understanding of the research subject.

ONLINE SURVEY

An online self completed survey was created for the general public to complete. The purpose of the survey was to gain a better understanding of the wider publics perceptions of Smart Clothing, issues that would deter them from purchasing and their behaviours towards current technology. The survey was also used to pilot specific themes that were later explored in-depth in an interview. An online platform called Survey Monkey was chosen and ten standardised questions were included.

Open ended and closed questions were used, so both quantitative and qualitative data could be collected. Enabling participants to give their views and opinions on the subject matter. By using an online platform this allowed for the survey to be distributed to a wider population at no cost and enabled fast data collection (Bryman and Bell, 2015). As the study is based around mass market adoption it was a necessity to have a wide demographic of respondents all with differing variables affecting their adopting behaviours. Due to only a small sample of respondents (52) reliability can be quantified by the variation in demographics proving unbiased results (See Appendix A).

6

PILOT SURVEY

LIMITATIONS

A pilot survey was initially conducted by one male aged 22 and one female aged 48 to ensure the questions presented were logical and understandable. It tested positively and was later published to a wider audience.

•Lack of depth in responses.

•Little understanding of subject impeding on participants ability to answer effectively.

•No control over respondent sample. (Cooper and Shindler, 2008)

Times occured our of X (X = No. of responses to question)

Definitions of smart cltohing Fabrics Knowledge Levels Public Perception Dependence

Data analysis of the closed questions presented within the survey was carried out by numerically coding the responses in accordance to age. The open ended questions were coded by identifying common themes which were then assigned a colour code. The transcript was then colour coded in accordance (See Appendix B). These findings were then presented in a chart to enable clear and succinct viewing for the reader (See Appendix C).

YES

Description

Washability

DATA ANALYSIS (Bryman and Bell, 2015)

Do you know what Smart Clothing is?

18-24

Code

NO

Total

Isolation Conveience Communication Table 2 - Online Survey Comments Coding Sample

SEMI STRUCTURED

LIMITATIONS •Validity of responses could be threatened as the researchers pre conceived views or ideas could influence how and what the participant responds with (Nigel Newton, 2010).

•Difficulty finding commonalities in responses during the data collection process.

50+

1 participant responded to open ended questions in person. As this participant was a consumer, this interview was an extension of the online survey completed by the public. The interview allowed for a more detailed, comprehensive collection of qualitative data (See appendix K-L).

Total

DATA ANALYSIS (Bryman and Bell, 2015)

25-30 31-40 41-50

Table 1 - Online Survey Numerical Coding Sample

INTERVIEWS

Research interviews with subject experts were extremely valuable to this study, in terms of bridging the gaps identified within the secondary research.

The structured interviews were analysed by going through the text and highlighting key themes that arose specific to each individual interview. These key themes were then drawn together and used to create categories of sub-codes to highlight the main commonalities discovered (See Appendix J). A similar strategy was used to analyse the semi-structured interview, initially the audio recording was transcribed to allow for the inclusion of pauses, speaking tones and direct quotations, this transcription was then colour coded into themes, as explained above (See Appendix M). The links found were displayed in visual tables for a clearer understanding. The key relationships discovered were then used to validate the points raised within this study.

INTERVIEW SAMPLE (Bryman and Bell, 2015)

In order to gain an in-depth understanding of the functions and capabilities of Smart Clothing and the issues surrounding the product entering the mass market, interviewees were chosen based on their knowledge levels of the subject. These knowledge levels were proven by the interviewees credentials which in turn also validates the findings from this specific method.

STRUCTURED

LIMITATIONS

3 participants responded to separate email interviews, questions were made specific to the •Set Questions limit ability to ask leading questions participant’s profession in order to reap the and therefore decreases the chances of discovering most beneficial information from that individu- new points to investigate. al (See Appendix D-J). By conducting these inter- •May be miss communication e.g. participant views online this allowed the participation of a doesn’t understand the question, which would then respondent from a wider demographic area, that hinder their ability to answer the question. otherwise would not have been possible (Cooper and Shindler, 2008).

7

Code

Description

Consumer Appetite Data Security Power Washability Timing Technacalities Table 3 - Strucutred Interviews Coding Sample

8

How many respondents mentioned theme out of X (X = No. of totsl interviewees)

1.0 THE SMART CLOTHING MARKET

DEFINING SMART CLOTHING

1.1

The classification of Wearable Technology in relation to clothing is called “Smart Clothing” (Hwang.2014) and can be defined as a “garment – integrated device which augments the functionality of clothing, or which imparts information processing functionality to a garment” (Dunne et al., 2005). “Intelligent” or “Smart” with regards to this specific topic, means the ability to sense stimuli from the environment and then react or adopt behaviour to the circumstances presented (Baurley, 2004). Such advances have been noted under rubrics like; “Smart Clothes”, “Smart Garments”, “Intelligent Garments”, or “Computational Garments” (Ryan,2014). For the purpose of this study however, only “Smart Clothing” or “Smart Garments” will be used.

This study has been formed to investigate Smart Clothing’s ability to become the next generation of leading wearable’s. Currently Smart Watches and Smart Bands are dominating the growing wearable’s market. However, this is set to change as later discussed in Chapter 2. The total volume of wearable technology shipments reached 19 million units in 2014, IDC Research predicts this will grow to 111.9 million units in 2018. With worldwide spending on wearable technology reaching £75.7 billion by 2016. This highlights the exceptional growth rate of the market Smart Clothing currently resides in.

(Fig. 4)

12

1. Levi’s Ipod jean 2. Zegna Bluetooth I Jacket.

3. oakley Solar Beach Tote.

Table 4 - History of Smart Clothing

Hisotry of Smart Clothing in R&D & Market (Ariyatum et al., 2005; Suh, Carroll & Cassill, 2010

1. Phillips & Levi’s, ICD+ Jacket Smart Clothing Market

1.Sensatax Smartshirt 2. Northface Self heating Jacket 3. Burton MD Jacket 4. Gap kid FM Radio Shirt.

5. Adida Self Adapting Shoes.

1. Fibretonic Connectedwear.

1. Eleksen Logitech Key Case 1. Softswitch Fabric Keyboard.

Smart Textile Market

1. Konaka Tech, Wearable power Generator.

2. Idaho National lab, Solar Energy Fbaric.

1. Tokyo University, Transparant Clothes Project.

2. Information Society, Technology Wealthy Project.

1. Softswitch Technologies.

2. Tampere University, Intelligent Textile Survey.

3. Georgia Tech, Wearable Motherboard 4. Eleksen Fabric Keyboard 1. Stevemann, Cybermann Project 2. MIT Lab, Lizzy project 3. bRISTOL university, Sensory Fabric Project R&D

4th STAGE 2nd STAGE

3rd STAGE

2005 2001

1st STAGE

During this evolution Smart Garments have emerged that are limited to catwalk use for example Bowkers designs and the Synapse Dress with some other products becoming complete Fads, with limited adoption. Such products highlight the issues this study sets out to explore.

In todays world, society is witnessing the emergence of innovative textiles such as the conductive yarn and nano technologies which are being utilized to create non obtrusive, truly technological garments.

1997

The concept of Smart Clothing originates from the idea of the “wearable computer’ created in the 1980’s (Hwang, 2014). In the late 1990’s collaborations from professionals with varying disciplines rapidly increased (See Table ? ). What is considered to be the first commercially wearable garment came from the Phillips electronics and Levi Strauss collaboration in 1999. The product enabled wearers to use a remote microphone embedded in the collar for use with mobile phones and digital MP3’s.

In 2001 North Face released the MET5 Jacket which generated heat, 2001 also witnessed the emergence of the Hug Shirt that gauged body temperature and heart rate using electronic sensors.

1980

THE EVOLUTION OF SMART CLOTHING

1.2

Integrating smart technology and clothing is expanding in both industry and academic literature (Hwang, 2014) Since 1910, there has been constant change within the fashion environment, however, one aspect that remains constant is the function of the garment (Cho, 2009). This function has evolved from protecting human beings to becoming the “instrument of augmenting human capabilities as ubiqouts environments demand digital assists” (Joeng and Yoo, 2010).

Currently Smart Accessories are donning the Wearable’s market. Their emergence onto the market came with less challenges and risks in comparison to Smart Garments with regards to wash-ability, energy on the body and durability. The Smart Accessory is a detachable product, it can be easily taken on and off to the consumer’s satisfaction however, Smart Garments are increasingly connected and a more complex product. Hence the Smart Accessory products ability to be adopted widely prior to the Smart Garment (Boxall, 2014).

IT IS ESTIMATED

During an interview conducted for this study Jane Grice predicted that intelligent garments for every day use in terms of fashion may never appear on the Mass Market (See Appendix G). However, this prediction is not reflected in the actions of industry where fashion seems to be embracing technology, as renowned brands are investing and exposing such products to increased numbers of consumers. For example, Intel are currently collaborating with Open Ceremony and Victoria Secret recently released a Smart Bra that measures heart rates using electrodes.

The rise in value can be attributed to the application of the Smart Fabrics in clothing, which are producing new products to meet rising demand for garments that are technologically integrated. As stated in a Grand View Research Report published in 2014, driving this growth includes the healthcare and social communication sectors but also the military sector. Where the use of heavy batteries in garments worn by the soldiers are replaced. For example, founder of intelligent Textiles Ltd, Asha Peta Thompson has developed an “E Jacket” that reduces the weight carried by soldiers using electronics that are woven into the fabric. This creates a flexible circuit board that connects together all the soldier’s equipment enabling the use of a single power source instead of multiple batteries. Whilst innovations are occurring within this sector the focus of this study remains on the health and wellbeing and social communication capabilities of Smart Clothing and the Mass Market adoption of the product. However, research and development within this field could aid in the creation of solutions to issues effecting the entrance to Mass Market.

Digital trends predict that Smart garments will be the break out “hit of the next few years”.

Richard Colson also predicted in an interview conducted for this study that “this market is going to grow, when the public begins to see the advantages spelt out clearly” (See Appendix E). Clothing is being dubbed the “ideal place for intelligent systems” (Cho,2009) as clothing could enhance “capabilities without requiring any conscious thought or effort” (Mann, 1996).

Textiles are present everywhere and are an integral part of ever-day life. The advent of Smart Textiles and in turn Smart Garments could prove to be of significant economic value.

1.3

THE EMERGING MARKET

that the global market for Smart Fabrics will grow to reach £13.2 billion by 2018 up from £4.6 Billion in 2012 (Statista,2015). The market value has risen year-onyear from 2012 to 2015, with the highest growth occurring between 2014 and 2015 where market value leaped from £7.01 billion to £8.2 billion.

The highest predicted growth is expected to occur between 2017 and 2018 where value could rise by £2 billion in one year (Statista,2015).

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(Fig. 5)

16

2.0 THE CONSUMER APPETITE

THE TERM MASS MARKET

2.1 THE MASS MARKET

refers to a vast number of consumers with widely varied demographics (Ingram, 2013). Brands choose to ignore traditional market segmentations and instead create a product that will appeal to the whole market. Examples of Mass Market products include; automobiles, household utilities etc. Simply a specific product with recognisable value that is adopted by the masses. A diverse range of consumers can be defined as people of all types of nationality, ethnicity, religion, sexuality, age and gender.

The Mass Market is also defined as the opposite to a Niche Market where only a small market segment exists (Bhansin, 2011). Currently Smart Garments sit within the Niche Market as stated by Natalie Zari in an interview conducted for this study, “again its very niche, a very niche market” (See Appendix L) which coincides with other interviewees perceptions of current smart garments available on the market. For example, Jane Grice expressed “I could see for example parents might buy baby clothes that monitor baby’s vital signs. Or that performance athletes might buy into something similar that measures their heart rate, breathing rate etc.” (See Appendix G) The product is only created for a specific need and adopted by consumers originating from specific demographics.

19

(Fig. 6)

DEVICE CATEGORY Smart Wristband Sports Watch

2.2 CONSUMER DEMAND

Other Fitness Monitor

GRAND VIEW RESEARCH

stated in a recently published report, “growing demand for connectivity and enhancement in wireless technologies is expected to increase market growth over the next few years”.

Whilst demand for smart wearable’s in the form of accessories (e.g. Smart Watch) decreases the demand for Smart Garments increases (See Table ). Shipment forecasts of Smart Wristbands decreases from 30 million units in the year 2013 to 19 million units in the year 2016, signifying the shift of consumer demand which sees consumers shying away from smart accessories and gaining greater appetite for smart garments. Smart Garment shipments increase from a mere 0.01 million units in 2013 to 26 million units in 2016 which is a notably significant leap in comparison to the other devices featured in the table. These figures symbolise the fast growth in demand for the Smart Garment product within the next year.

Chest Strap Smart Garment TOTAL MARKET

2013

2014

2015

2014

30

20

17

19

14

18

21

24

18

20

12

15

11

12.1

8

7.3

0.01

0.1

10.1

26

73.01

70.2

68.1

91.3

Table 5 - Smart Wearable Shipments Source: Gartner (Ocotober,2014)

“

WHAT IF THE SHIRT YOU WORE COULD MAINTAIN MOST OF THE FUNCTIONALITY OF YOUR SMART WATCH OR SMART BAND? WOULD YOU STILL REACH FOR A CLUNKY WATCH EVERDAY BEFORE LEAVING THE HOUSE? (Weir, 2014)

“

(Fig. 7)

22

SMART GARMENTS

have appeared on the fashion catwalks before now, and the product has emerged within specific fields such as the health care and military sectors however it has been evidenced that it may now seem that a significant demand within the mass market is approaching as Sasha De Konick predicted in an interview conducted for this study “I think it will only take a couple of years to see smart clothing enter the Mass Market” (See Appendix I) Smart Garments currently sit within the niche market Sasha De Koninck also states that she does not “know that there is significant demand yet for smart clothing” that “once a good product comes out that is not an accessory or worn on the wrist and does more than your fitness tracker, then there could be demand” (See Appendix I). Consumers are no longer content with or entertained by non integrated technologies, they want convenient, embedded technology that allows constant control and connectivity .

In today’s fast paced environment, Smart Clothing will be able to deliver a service of three products in one. Within an anonymous online survey conducted for this study respondents were asked whether they felt they were dependent on technology itself, one respondent claimed that Wi-Fi and technological assists are expected to be on offer “gone are the days where you’d take a bag with a paper pad, pen, diary, phone, mp3 player, digital cameras. This shift shows that the consumer now expects one product to be able to multi task.” (See Appendix B). Another motive which may drive consumer appetite is competition. Peer pressure amongst consumers could trigger further demand and adoption as people are intrigued by, and usually want to purchase the latest product released on the market. As Richard Colson states that “Part of the demand comes from a general public interest in the new and cutting edge aspects of design” (See Appendix E).

(Fig. 8)

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Generation I are people who can not comprehend a world without technology. Born into an environment where extensive technological advancements were occurring at an exceptionally fast rate, Gen I expect everything to be immediate, interactive and intuitive (Firth and Rees,2013). For this reason, Generation I may be the key adopters of Smart Clothing. They will expect ongoing innovations and emerging technological advancements to be released into the market. Causing companies to strive to discover new and innovative ways to embed technology further into everyday lives. Generation I already allow technology to effect every facet of their lives (Firth and Rees,2013) Therefore, the adoption of Smart Clothing will be effortless. They will want to be closer to the actual technology as they become increasingly interested, dependent on it.

GENERATION i

“At no other time in history, will there be a group of people whose own growth and maturation is so perfectly reflected in the principal technological and cultural advancement of the age.” (Coldewey,2010)

2.3

GENERARATION i

BORN AFTER 2002,

“

THE FLUENCY OF THEIR DIGITAL LIVES MEANS THAT TECHNOLOGY IS SO INGRAINED IN THEIR CONSCIOUSNESS THAT THEY DON’T EVEN NOTICE ITS THERE (Firth & Rees,2013)

25

“

(Fig. 9)

3.0 SMART CLOTHING:WHAT IS IT?

In order to explore the key issues and challenges of bringing truly smart clothing to mass market, it is first essential to obtain a certain level of understanding concerning the actual functions of the technologies within smart clothing and the subsequent capabilities generated from those technologies. Within this study the focus remains specifically on the health monitoring and social communication capabilities emerging within smart clothing. With so much scope in regards to the capabilities being generated from smart clothing it was deemed necessary to limit this investigation in order to generate an effective exploration in terms of depth and detail.

3.1 THE TECHNOLOGIES

FROM NANOFIBERS to microprocessors

technology is getting further embedded into the very fabric of clothing, creating clothing that is more responsive to the ever changing personal and environmental needs of the human (Eyebeam,2014).

3.11 INPUT INTERFACES

“Active inputs can be consciously controlled by a wearer using a tactile or acoustic feedback system that allows an intuitive use of the garment” (Seymour,2009) These inputs are typically biometric data gathered from the body or alternatively automatic data that travels via wireless transmission, sharing environmental data.

(Fig. 10)

ORIGIN

INPUTS (EXAMPLES

PERSON

pressure, motion, biometric data, sound, visuals, humidty, orientation, smell, acceleration

ENVIRONMENT

light, sound, temperature, smoke, micro particles, visual.

Table 6 - Input Interfaces (Seymour, 2009)

3.12 OUTPUT INTERFACES

Output interfaces are mediums by which the information is presented to the wearer. Visual, tactile and auditory interfaces are key ways to transmit information from wearable systems to the human. Visual interfaces are the dominant output devices of computing systems (Seymour, 2009). In order to be worn on the human body, the visual displays within Smart Clothing must be compliant to the body’s natural function. Vibration or tactile interfaces can be identified as an effective tool when attempting to appeal to the mass consumer as these displays have permanent proximity to the skin allowing information to be presented when audio or visual displays are physically or sociably inappropriate.

SENSE

VISUAL SOUND TOUCH SMELL, TASTE

OUTPUTS (EXAMPLES)

LEDs, thermochromic inks, EL wires, Eink, (alphanumeric) displays speakers, buzzersmotros/actua tors, shape memory alloys, conductive fabrics scent capsules

Table 7 - Output Interfaces (Seymour, 2009)

3.13 SENSORS

“Sensors measure and monitor physiological and environmental data and acts as input interfaces.” (Seymour,2009) the purpose of a sensor is that is allows a signal to transform into another signal that can be read by a predefined user which can either be a device or a human. Ultimately the majority of signals are transformed into electric ones which means electrode conductive fabrics are of upmost importance with concerns to Smart Clothing.

3.14 COMMUNICATION

“Communication” refers to information transferred between the elements within Smart Clothing. Short range communication can be identified as communication within a device or between 2 devices worn by the user.

Long range communication refers to communication between 2 users (Tao, 2005). Communication may even be required to be passed from the wearer to the garment to pass instruction or from the garment itself to his/her environment.

With consideration to embedded wiring, considerable work has been undertaken to try and replace traditional bulky wires whilst the industry also tries to understand whether visible or non visible technology is more appealing to the mass consumer.

Body sensing technologies must be close to the skin to be effective and can be classed as the perfect candidates for integration into a textile. The proper placement of these sensors on the garment is essential in regards to the ability to capture the requested data. The data is then captured as an input and using microprocessors the data is computed.

31

32

3.2

SMART TEXTILES: SECOND SKIN

THE CURRENT LEVELS

of integration between the body and technology highlights the degree to which our bodies are rapidly becoming extensions of technical advances (Seymour,2009). This is leading to the creation of the term “Second Skin” which refers to technology becoming increasingly seamless & embedded that it is in fact beginning to take a similar form to that of the human skin.

What makes Smart Fabrics so innovative and revolutionary is their functions ability to do numerous things that traditional fabrics otherwise cannot, including; communicate, conduct energy and even grow (File, 2014).

Conductivity within a textile can be imported at any stage. Numerous weaving styles can be applied with optical fibres, including dobby and jacquard weaves. This is discussed in Section 3.32 with the introduction of google and Levi’s collaboration “the Jacquard Project.”

“The use of enhanced materials and textiles in conjunction with current research in nano, bio and digital technology will lead us to a fashionable wearable that is a true integration of essential function and aesthetic design” (Seymour, 2009) Both Nano-technology and Microfibers are really driving the ability to have seamless technology as a reality within our clothing. The miniaturisation of these components makes it easier to integrate into fabrics, its lightweight and barely, if visible at all form makes it extremely appealing when attempting to encourage mass consumption. when attempting to encourage mass consumption.

“

SMART TEXTILES ARE FABRICS THAT HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED WITH NEW TECHNOLOGIES THAT PROVIDE ADDED VALUE TO THE WEARER (File,2014)

(Fig. 11)

“

The degree of intelligence can be divided into 3 sub-groups (Tao, 2001) PASSIVE SMART TEXTILES Restricted to only sensing the envi-

ronment itself, they are simply sensors.

ACTIVE SMART TEXTILES Have an ability to sense stimuli from the environment and react to them.

They have sensor and actuator functions.

VERY SMART TEXTILES Have the ability to adapt behaviours in accordance to the circumstances

Table 8 - Smart Textile Intelligence

35

(Fig. 12)

THE ADDITION OF THE SCIENCES is causing fabrics

that grow. One leading business within this area is the bio creative design consultancy Bio couture. Using bacteria, fungi and algae they are exploring natures sustainable materials for future consumer products and building relationships with biomaterial innovators so they can encourage environmental fashion which in turn increases societies ability to have a positive effect on reducing waste levels within the industry, not just at the manufacturing stage but also at the consumer level.

3.3

social communication capabilities remain the focus for this investigation. The two sectors were chosen based on their evident value to the consumer, as identified within the primary research conducted for this study, 67% of people who completed the online survey believe wellbeing & social communication capabilities have more value within smart clothing than entertainment capabilities (gimmicks) where there is no vital need for the product (See Appendix A). As “growth is expected to occur in applications requiring dedicated functions that can be placed in everyday clothing” (Cho,2009 ) It has been evidenced that when a need is fulfilled through a product, it is more likely to be adopted (Hwang, 2014).

“

3.31 HEALTH & WELLBEING

THE CAPABILITIES

HEALTH AND WELLBEING and

SMART CLOTHING will pro-

vide an advantageous service within the healthcare sector where smart clothes can serve to record electrocardiograms (ECGS), respiration rates, heart rates and so on. Traditional sensors often cause skin irritation (Cho,2009) due to the adhesive or gel of conventional ECG electrode.

With more emphasis on aesthetics and convenience the historical bulkiness of other more traditional health monitors will soon be a thing of the past, as the emergence of innovative products such as the ones introduced below produce the ability to overcome these inconveniences.

FIRST THERE WAS THE PEDOMETER THEN THERE WAS THE FIT BIT AND NOW MONITORING YOUR HEALTH MAY BE AS EASY AS GETTING DRESSED (Chang, 2015)

37

38

“

(Fig. 15)

(Fig. 13)

RAPLH LAUREN POLO TECH SHIRT

Arguably the most publicised smart garment to already enter the mass market is Ralph Laurens Polo Tech shirt. The brand teamed with biometrics clothing maker OMSignal, to create the shirts that has sensors knitted into the core which allow the inclusion of an accelerometer, gyroscope and heartbeat monitor (Hollister & Kooser, 2014) The information is collected by a data module and communicated to an IOS app that monitors…

• Stress Levels • Calories burned • Respiration • Heartbeat • Energy Output The product is on the market for £120 which could be seen as very reasonable price considering the capabilities.

(Fig. 14)

BIO LOGIC

Teams from both MIT Media Lab and The Royal College of Art have utilised bacteria to create a bio skin fabric that peels back in reaction to sweat and humidity. The bacteria has the ability to expand and contract in a reaction to moisture produced. They then developed a method for integrating it into a material that can be used within an actual garment. The flaps peel back once the wearer starts to warm up creating additional ventilation and aids them in the cooling down process.

CLOTHING+

The company Clothing + are creating solutions for healthcare. They ensure everything from essential bio compatibility and non toxic materials to accurate sensor placement is correct for FDA approval making the products eligible for mass market. For example, the Liquid Accumulation Vest, measures water accumulation in the lungs to indicate a heart condition and the ECG brain hat which measure brain activity.

(Fig. 16) 39

40

3.32 SOCIAL COMMUNICATION

OVER THE YEARS technology

has significantly altered the way people communicate.

Originally the telephone replaced the telegraph and now mobile phones, video chat, email and social networking sites are the preferred communication methods (Orth,2013). The emergence of Smart Clothing with alternative social communication capabilities could shift the way people interact. The way society communicates will no longer be through a handheld device but rather through a product that’s seamlessly embedded into the clothing people wear, bringing the technologies closer to the skin and making it more convenient to access .

(Fig. 17)

(Fig. 19) (Fig. 18)

Google and Levis collaboration “The Jacquard Project” is an exceptional example of the research and development occurring within this field.

Project jacquard makes it possible to weave touch and gesture interactivity into any textile using standard industrial looms Project Jacquard combine the application of conductive yarns and traditional yarns such as Jacquard to make it strong enough to be woven on any industrial loom, potentially solving the issue of mass production.

The conductive yarns are then attached to connectors and minute circuits no larger than a button. Jacquard yarns are also indistinguishable from the yarns that are used to produce non Smart fabrics, these miniaturisation and indistinguishable factors both increase the appeal of the Smart Garment as it will make the technology invisible which can increase the consumer appeal.

The touch and gesture sensitive areas can be woven in at precise locations anywhere on the garment which allows for direct placement of the technology to best benefit the user. The captured touch and gesture data is wirelessly transmitted to mobiles or other devices to allow control over a range of function such as: •Reading emails, articles.

•Apps.

•Making phone calls.

(Fig. 20)

(Fig. 21)

The different variations and colours within the design process allows designers to experiment with texture and patterns which allows for the same capabilities to be presented in aesthetically differing garments. This will also increase consumer appeal for reasons presented in Chapter 4.

Project Jacquard essentially allows designers and developers to build connected, touch sensitive textile into their own products, subsequently changing the way consumers communicate and interact.

43 (Fig. 22)

(Fig. 23)

(Fig. 24)

WW

4.0

SMART CLOTHING:ISSUES & CHALLENGES Designers face numerous challenges when attempting to construct a garment appropriate for mass consumption. When creating a user centred Smart Garment, designers must have a comprehensive understanding of the purpose, the user and the interaction in order to create a suitable aesthetic with positive levels of; wash-ability, functionality and wear-ability (Seymour, 2009). Due to the scale and size of the topic, this study will only cover some of the key challenges of bringing Smart Garments to Mass Market, and not all fundamental obstacles.

(Fig. 25)

“

AN APPELAING DESING IN COMBINATION WITH AN INTUITIVE INTERFACE THATS EASY TO USE WILL MAKE FOR A SUCCESSFUL FASHION WEARABLE (Seymour,2009)

“

an aesthetic design that has all the intended technological capabilities but is still appealing to the consumer. A major criticism of the creation of Smart Garments is that there is more focus on the technology rather than the design, compromising the aesthetics and wear-ability of the product (Eyebeam,2014).

Smart Clothing must satisfy the users needs with regards to self expression, self representation and style. It is an essential issue to overcome as, clothing currently sells on individuality. People do not generally like to purchase and wear the same as others. Unlike the adoption of laptops, mobile phones and smart watches where the consumer is content with purchasing a product of identical design (Hunn, 2015).

HISTORICALLY

wearables are awkward to wear and look at thus lacking in appeal. In an online survey conducted for this study respondents were asked what factor would most deter them from purchasing a Smart Garment. A respondent stated “the general appearance of the product, I wouldn’t want it to be bulky with visible wires. I would not want others to know necessarily that I was wearing a piece of Smart Clothing.” (See Appendix B). Which suggests another issue, that people may want to adopt a Smart Garment but might not want others to know.

Should the technology be visible or non visible? As technology advances and integration becomes increasingly seamless and therefore invisible, consumers may become more likely to purchase the product.

4.1

AESTHETICS & FUNCTIONALITY

ONE OF THE KEY CHALLENGES is creating

THE PRODUCT

(Fig. 26)

CONSIDERATIONS

in terms of wear-ability include the consumer satisfaction with the; fit, comfort and mobility of the product. Smart Clothing should maintain the comfort and usability of ordinary clothes (Hwang, 2014). The technological components featured within the clothing can add extra weight and pressure onto the body. As a result of this, the wearer can become limited in terms of comfort and body movement. Dependent on the technology embedded within the clothing Smart Garments will need to be a good fit in order for the technology to stay in contact with the body. This highlights the challenge of sizing. A certain degree of tailoring will be need to introduced to overcome this issue. Made to measure is emerging as a solution due to automated measurement and cutting, however these techniques are still in their infancy. There is also fear that this solution may keep prices of the products high which could deter mass market consumers from purchasing.

must be reliable and durable with the ability to endure day to day activities and still function accordingly (Seymour, 2009). In an online survey conducted for this study a respondent commented, “being able to easily use the product is essential in getting people to use it time again” (See Appendix B), which highlights another issue. Professionals constructing the garments have to ensure the consumer can easily use and interact with the system within the garment. Otherwise this will limit the chances of adoption and repeated use.

Arguably one of the greatest challenges is the wash-ability of the garment. With energy and technology integrated, how will the consumer clean the product? As Richard Colson stated in an interview conducted for this study, “The other problem is moisture and the problem of laundering expensive intricate devices embedded in cloth or accessories” (See Appendix E). As the consumer will use the garment frequently and it is placed on the body it is essential this challenge is overcome in order to appeal to a wider market.

52

ONE of the greatest challenges designers are

chargeable hanger as an alternative solution. When clothes are being stored they charge, creating a solution that is not an additional task for the user (Hunn, 2015). Another potential solution is the human body itself, which generates power. This can be derived from human kinetics or bodily heat exchange, however these can only be measured in microwatts and are therefore to small to power Smart Garments (Seymour, 2009).

4.2

ENERGY ON THE BODY

THIS LEAVES OPPORTUNITY to introduce a

(Fig. 27)

and privacy is emerging. Questions are being raised as to who owns the data produced by the user’s body. Is it the consumer themselves, the brand who sold the garment or the company that produced the system within the garment? And in addition where the information is going and who exactly has access to it. Experts suggest that “most will not think about it until it comes to bite them” as Nick Hunn suggests in his 2015 Market for Smart Wearables report. This implies that data security will not become a recognizable issue until it goes wrong (e.g. media scare, data loss, leaked public information) but by then it will be too late and could potentially tarnish Smart Garments reliability and consumer trust which hinders the chances of mass consumption. This highlights the need for security that is able to support the rise of technological assists.

FEW MASS CONSUMERS are actually aware

of the amount of data collected. This lack of knowledge will leave consumers vulnerable and open to their private information being abused. Richard Colson commented, “there is a resistance based on fear of sharing personal data which is acting as a dampener on the drive for full take up by the mass market.” (See Appendix E). Data security factors must be covered within product contracts and consumers need to be openly made aware of what information is being shared and who has true ownership in order to prevent this from becoming an even greater issue.

54

DATA SECURITY

With regards to battery life and recharging, an efficient solution has to be created. Consumers want efficiency, Smart Garments can provide that. However, having to recharge constantly will become a hindrance within their lives and decrease levels of use.

THE ISSUE OF DATA SECURITY

4.3

facing is creating an efficient energy source for the garment and for the product to be easily rechargeable. As Sasha De Koninck questions “what is the power source for the garment? Does it need charging? How much power is required for it to run all day?” (See Appendix I). Much controversy has surrounded this specific area in terms of electromagnetic frequency, battery leakage and the signals of wireless communication causing potential health risks as the technology sits closer to the body.

ONE

of the vital challenges to overcome in order for Smart Garments to become the next generation of Smart Wearables is the current public perception of the product. Consumers need to understand the real value of the Smart Garment and how it will benefit them, in order to achieve mass consumption of the product. “The greater degree to which the individual perceives the advantages of an innovation, the more rapid its rate of adoption will be.”

(Hwang, 2014) Consumers simply will not purchase a product they do not understand or feel they need. In an online survey conducted specifically for this study a significant 75% of respondents had no knowledge of Smart Clothing (See Appendix A) highlighting as Natalie Zari stated in her interview “it’s a sector that’s not mass publicised, so the general populous aren’t even aware of what’s even going on now” (See Appendix L).

However, 82% of respondents would be interested in gaining knowledge of the product if information was readily available with a further 86% stating they would then be more inclined to purchase (See Appendix A). These statistics prove that there is interest which could be turned into demand if mass consumers were subjected to information on the product.

4.4

PUBLIC PERCEPTION

In order to appeal to mass consumers a focus has to remain on reducing the selling price of the product. As Natalie Zari states “I think with adopting or purchasing its a very price conscious thing.” (See Appendix L). This is evidenced by the 47% of respondents that would be deterred from purchasing a product due to its price point (See Appendix A). Consumers have to believe the product is worth the money they are parting with.

Designers creating Smart Garments have to consider the USP of the product in comparison to the capabilities of a Smart Watch already on the market. For some people the convenience Smart Garments offers isn’t a major influence to purchase. So how will the product differentiate and encourage those consumers to purchase?

Cultural and physiological aspects will have to be considered in order to improve public perception (Seymour, 2009). If the product is to be eligible for mass production the design will need to adhere to the cultural needs of the individual. As discussed previously, physiological factors include the consumers mind set being against adopting a piece of clothing of similar design to that of their peers.

And finally the product must ultimately deliver an exceptional customer experience. The emotional relationship developed with the product will drive the experience and engagement forward.

“

WHILST TECHNOLOGY-INTEGRATED CLOTHING OFFERS CONVENIENCES & COMPETITVE ADVANTAGES TO USERS, THE NEWER AN INNOVATION, THE HIGHER THE UNCERTAINTY (Hwang,2014)

Explanation (Davis, 1989) 1. Perceived Usefulness

2. Perceived Use of Ease

3. Percieved Risk

4. Performance Risk

“The degree of which a person believes that using a particular system would enhance his or her job performance” (Davis, 1989) “The degree to which a person believes that using a particular system would be free of effort” “The uncertainty consumers face when they cannot foresee the consequences of their purchase decisions”

Impact

“

When the consumer imagines the usefulness of the product they are more likely to adopt the product.

(Hwang, 2014) Products rapidly adopted that are easy to use and do not require new skills.

In general the risk a consumer believes comes with purchasing the product will have a negative impact on their decision to adopt.

“The possibility that the Performance risk can cause product will not function negative impact on consumas expected and/or will not ers purchasing decisions. provide the desired benefits’’

Table 9 - Technology Acceptance

(Fig. 28)

56

5.0

SMART CLOTHING:IMPACT ON BEHAVIOURS

DESPITE MANY

of the positive emerging capabilities identified in Chapter 3, constant exposure to technological experiences can cause negative impact on humans (Norman, 2007). Humans are deemed as reliable, creative, emotional and significantly adept at recognizing patterns (Brandon, 2013). However, the process of a digital transformation could infringe on the natural ability to execute those abilities.

THE PURPOSE

of this chapter is to create a comparative discourse concerning the impact increasingly integrated technology will have on humans.

Smart clothing is considered, technology that is “becoming closer and closer to us” as Benjamin Males, Chief Technology Officer for Studio XO stated in a recent WGSN report, therefore Smart Clothing can be used to define the phrase “increasingly integrated technology”. It must be noted that some of the population may not openly accept embedded technological experiences into their lives as discussed in Chapter 4. Therefore, this chapter only discusses the percentage of population that are current or future adopters of this growing technological trend.

The renowned phycologist Sherry Turkle stated in her TED Talk “Connected: But alone” that “what makes technology easy is not always what nurtures the human”, so regardless of how convenient technological assists may be, it might not be having a very positive effect on the development of traits that make people human. Humans turn to technology to exercise control comfortably and to feel connected “but were not so comfortable, not so in control” (Turkle, 2012) is the control being shifted over to the technology itself ? The moment people become truly alone they grow anxious, they panic and reach for a technological connection, they feel the need to constantly be connected. In the online survey conducted for this study 60% of respondents felt they were completely dependent on their current technology (See Appendix A). This highlights people’s inabilities to solely be alone and achieve self discovery, thus people are not fulfilling their full potential because their is no time spent realizing a true self so the output of societies true humanistic capabilities is slowly decreasing. This could potentially get worse as technology becomes further embedded into the very clothing people wear.

This exploration will focus on these few key elements: •General Human Development •Interaction and Communication •Attention and Memory •Anxiety

Motto of the 1933 Chicago Worlds Fair (Norman, 2007)

Science finds - industry applies - man conforms

A person centered motto for the twenty first century.

(Norman, 2007)

People propose - science studies - technology conforms

Table 10 - Theory of Tech Adoption Process

“

WE IGNORE HOW ARTIFICIAL VIBRATIONS FELT DAILY FOR YEARS MAY AFFECT BRAIN DEVELOPMENT, WE IGNORE HOW AUTOMATIC ADAPTIONS OF INTERFACES MAY AFFECT ABILITIES IN OLD AGE, AND WE IGNORE HOW THE YOUNG WILL CHANGE THEIR WORLD VIEWS WHEN SUPPORTED BY SEEMINGLY INTELLIGENT GARMENTS (Cho,2009)

60

“

(Fig. 29)

(Fig. 30)

(Fig. 31)

(Fig. 32)

AS DR. BRIDGET DUFFY

stated in a Tech-Radar Report “to loose the distinction of emotional connection will affect the natural ability to build relationships”.

Smart Clothing capabilities may allow people to communicate more efficiently ,however people may be compromising the quality and very purpose of the communication itself.

In relation to development and how humans are learning and discovering, it can be stipulated that technology is giving the answers instead of humans searching for them (Brandon,2013). Neema Moraveji, Director of Calming Tech Lab states, “relying on technological assists could in the long run have detrimental affects to human development”.

THE ABILITY

“

to communicate effectively face-to-face will also be affected, as people constantly multi task (See Appendix B). With attentions stretched elsewhere this causes humans to rarely be fully immersed in a conversation with another human. This element of constant preoccupation may lead to behaviors of ignorance, disrespect, lack of patience and short attention spans, especially among the younger generation I. They were born into a technological world where traditional ways of communication are not a necessity (WGSN, 2015). Being subjected to strips of communication in comparison to actual conversation hinders the growth of skills that are the foundation of understanding another human being.

Technology is allowing humans to discover however it is only quick information and people are not using their basic intuitive skills to gain knowledge which could hinder the development of both. Accessing information through technology can be deemed positive due to time efficiency which allows focus to be shifted onto other more important tasks which, in this fast paced world is extremely beneficial. However it infringes on the ability to explore and gain information. It may also cause issues with patience levels and behaviors of frustration, as the expectation of receiving everything within a second is relayed into other elements of life, when this cannot be achieved due to factors outside of ones control people may show signs of frustration or alternatively when the technology does not action the task intended.

WE ARE ISOLATED AND INDIVIDUAL RATHER THAN INTERCONNECTED & PRIMARILY COMPETITIVE RATHER THAN PRIMARILY COLLABORATIVE (Brandon,2013)

“

“

Through this process people’s brains are left underrepresented in relation to the major components of the natural world e.g.

• Memory of the physical environment • Interpersonal Communication •

Self Reliant Exploration

“

WE HAVE BECOME ALMOST WILLING TO DISPERSE WITH PEOPLE ALL TOGETHER (Turkle,2012)

WHEN HUMANS

simply receive information reflex is triggered, its only when an element presents itself in the environment that must be interpreted and understood does higher cognition come into play. Humans ability to respond to their environments may decrease as this ability is passed onto evolving technologies therefore higher cognitive skills may become a natural ability of the past.

MUCH OF HUMAN CHARACTER,

moral and knowledge is built on the journey of experiences if we take away the richness of human experiences and feed them to technology we loose out on the journey and subsequently the ability to develop. Ultimately technology is aiding society in pushing humanistic boundaries and making things possible that were not even a thought previously. However, adopters of integrated technologies should be aware of the detrimental effects the over use of technology can have on human development over the course of time.

The human brain is programmed in 2 main ways: (Brandon 2013) REFLEX HIGHER COGNITION

Listening to Instruction Understanding & interpreting elements within an environment

Table 11 - Programming of the Human Brain

(Fig. 33)

66

CONCLUSION

THE PURPOSE of this study was to examine the amalgamation of technology, science and design potentially forming the next generation of Smart Wearable’s. To achieve this an exploration into the key issues surrounding Smart Clothing entering the Mass Market was conducted. As well as an investigation into the subsequent shift in human capabilities and behaviours that could emerge if Smart clothing was to be adopted by a wider market.

BY UTILISING both primary and secondary research, it has been evidenced throughout this study that the Smart Garment market is going to grow, and at a rapid rate in comparison to Smart Accessories.

As per the hypothesis, demand for the product is set to increase, however key challenges need to be overcome to allow this. Notably the most significant challenge is the publics current perception of Smart Garments and their lack of understanding the product. Innovative products such as the Smart Garment initially begin their life cycle in the niche market purchased only by early adopters therefore the mass consumer will not yet trust the product.

These factors are major deterrents when considering to purchase. The industry needs to focus on keeping the price points down of the product and finding a solution to the wash-ability element, as well as striving to deliver Smart Garments with appealing aesthetic designs. Once this has been achieved, the Smart Garment will appeal to the mass consumer and is predicted to enter the mass market within the next 5-10 years. (Fig. 34) AS THIS STUDY focuses on appealing to the Mass Market the anonymous online survey conducted, was analysed by age group to gain a clearer understanding of each age groups thoughts. When asked if they would be likely to adopt after understanding the Smart Garment product better all of the respondents aged 41-50 said no with the lowest age group of 18-24 ranking most dependent on their current technology (See Appendix A) this evidence supports the argument presented within Chapter 2 that claims generation I could be the key adopters of this emerging product.

THROUGH INVESTIGATING the shift in behaviours, current technology causes, it became apparent that the further integrated the technology becomes the greater the risk to the growth and execution of human abilities such as; learning and discovering, attention, memory, general human development.

Despite Smart Garments ability to enhance capabilities, Adopters of these integrated technologies should be aware of the detrimental effects the over use of technology can have.

THE EMERGENCE of the Smart Garment will impact on varying elements within the Fashion Industry.

Rise of demand will see brands prioritising technology in their design process, causing alterations in traditional production methods. A rise in technologists working in fashion, not just as outsourced consultants but as in-house employees, will occur as brands continue to realise the importance of obtaining knowledgeable people within that field that can aid in the creation of Smart Garments. The rise of the Smart Garment will see an increase of Technological fashion degrees emerging as well as an increase in hybrid professionals educated in a number of disciplines as the need for solutions to the issues stated increases and Research and Development intensifies.

THIS STUDY will aid designers and brands in becoming aware of the issues and challenges of attempting to bring Smart Clothing to Mass Market and possible solutions. In turn causing them to focus on making the product more suitable for mass consumption. It will also aid the consumer within the Mass Market. By stating the actual capabilities & challenges within smart clothing succinctly this will give the consumer a clear, informed understanding of such products - causing them to feel part of the journey & subsequently more likely to adopt the emerging product.

CONCLUSION 68

MOVING FORWARD, this creates opportunity for a publication to be released and distributed onto general news stands to allow the publication to be seen by a wider market not just a specific consumer interested in the subject field that would search for such a publication.

AN INCREASE in experimentation at industry level needs to continue to find solutions to the issues investigated. Specifically, the wash-ability, power resources and recharge-ability of the product.

Whilst being mindful of the convenience element, industry could create a charging hanger as a solution for recharge-ability. The product could be charged without the consumer having to include an additional task. Other solutions could be derived from the advances occurring within the military sector by applying those solutions to the product in a way it could still appeal to the mass market.

THE CONTENT of the publication would include: •Simplified explanations of the capabilities.

•Examples of products coming onto the market including prices and where the product is available to purchase.

•Projects or competitions to get readers involved with the product.

THIS COULD trigger further interest and encourage readers to purchase the product. However, there are limitations to this recommendation because you cannot force potential consumers to buy and read the publication. So initially the publication could be free to encourage people to read, alternatively it could be distributed by a method that people cannot miss, e.g. in the post.

SMART GARMENTS appeal is based around enhancing human capabilities conveniently, however for a percentage of consumers this factor does not influence purchasing behaviours.

Therefore, the industry needs to identify a USP that can clearly differentiate the product from Smart Accessories already on the market.

RECOMMENDATIONS 69

PRIMARY RESEARCH showed that price and aesthetics significantly affects purchasing behaviour, highlighting the need to keep the price points down and the design appealing, to enable mass consumption.

(Fig. 35) FURTHER RESEARCH: Conducting a focus group that involves an experimental investigation where the participants would actually get to experience a Smart Clothing product would allow the observation of initial reactions to the capabilities of the product. Raw qualitative data could then be collected and increase knowledge of the consumer’s perceptions of the product. However due to time and resource restraints, this specific method of primary research was unable to come to fruition. For future reference this type of method would be notably beneficial when investigating this subject field. .

RECOMMENDATIONS

RESEARCH has shown that consumers lack considerable knowledge of the Smart Garment. The industry needs to bridge the gap between the unknown and the known for the product to appeal to the consumer.

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O’Donnell, B. (2015) The slow build: Smart Wearables forecast, 2014-2020. Available at: http:// w w w. t e c h n a l y s i s r e s e a r c h . c o m /d ow n l o a d s / T EC H n a l ysis%20Research%20 S m a r t % 2 0 We a r a b l e s % 2 0 Fo re c a s t % 2 0 Su m m a r y, % 2 0 May%202015.pdf (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

Orth, M. (2013) ‘Technology & how we communicate’, Available at: Small Business Chron.

(Accessed 14th November 2015)

Sutch. D (2015) the impact of digital technologies on human wellbeing: evidence from the sciences of mind and brain. Available at: https:// www.nominettrust.org.uk/sites/ default/files/NT%20SoA%20 -%20The%20impact%20of%20 digital%20technologies%20 on%20human%20wellbeing.pdf (Accessed: 22 November 2015).

Prabhakar, H. (2007) Smart, high-tech clothing. Available at: http://www.forbes. co m /2 0 0 7/0 3 /19 / h i g hte c h function-clothing-forbeslife-

Technology woven in (no date) Available at: https://www.google. com/atap/project-jacquard/ (Accessed: 16 September 2015).

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Tucker, E. (2015) BioLogic material opens and closes in response to humidity. Available at: http:// www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/ mit-media-lab-tangible-media-group-biologic-material-bacteria-fashion-design/ (Accessed: 13 November 2015).

Weinswig. D (2015) Global tech report on smart clothing (PDF) Available at: http://www.deborahweinswig.com/wp-content/ uploads/2015/02/FBIC-GlobalRetail-Tech-Report-on-SMARTCLOTHING-Feb.-9-2015.pdf (Accessed: 22 November 2015).

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Pierce, D. and List, W. (2015) Google is hacking our clothes to work like Touchscreens Available at: http:// www.wired.com/2015/05/google-wants-turn-everything-wearable/ (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

Textile sensor Demos II (2015) Available at: https://www.flickr. com/photos/plusea/7937697226/ (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

Gardner, Z. (2015) Hypertension, mass hysteria and the Imaginarium Available at: http:// www.zengardner.com/smartskin-is-here-transhumanismmade-easy/ (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

The human brain (2012) Available at: https://www.tumblr.com/ search/the+human+brain (Accessed: 15 December 2015).

Meyer, D. (2014) How thin, flexible electronics will revolutionize everything from user interfaces to packaging Available at: http://gigaom.com/2014/04/07/ how-thin-flexible-electronics-will-revolutionize-everything-from-user-interfaces-to-packaging/ (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

Wgsn (2014) Available at: h t t p : / / w g s n . t u m b l r. c o m / post/118018140499/forster-rohner-2015-updates-of-conductive (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Bryman, A. and Bell, E. (2015) Business Research Methods. United Kingdom: Oxford University Press.

Cooper, D. R. and Schindler, P. S. (2008) Business Research Methods.

10th edn. New York, NY: McGraw Hill Higher Education.

Norman, D. A. (2007) The Design of Future Things. New York: Basic Books, New York,U.S.A Quinn, B. (2012) Fashion Futures. London: Merrell Publishers.

Ryan, S. E. (2014) Garments of Paradise: Wearable Discourse in the Digital Age. United States: MIT Press.

Seymour, S. (2009) Fashionable Technology: The Intersection of Design, Fashion, Science and Technology. New York: Springer Verlag GmbH.

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APPENDICES

APPENDIX A:

Online Survey Results Numerically Coded

The online survey for this study was conducted to gain futher insight into the perceptions & knowledge the general public currently have of “Intelligent Garments�.

Q1. Do you know what Smart Clothing is?

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

YES 5 2 1 3 2

NO 15 3 7 10 4

Total

13

39

|

Total 20 5 8 13 6

Q5. From your current knowledge of Smart Clothing what would most deter you from purchasing a Smart Garment?

PRICE

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

9 2 3 4 3

4 0 1 3 0

1 0 1 2 1

3 3 2 1 0

3 0 1 3 2

20 5 8 13 6

4 2 1 2 1

Total

21

8

5

9

9

52

10

Q2. If yes, what do you know?

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

4 0 1 3 0

SKIPPED

Total

8

44

16 4 6 8 4

|

Total 20 5 8 13 6

52

Q3. If information was readily available regarding how Smart Clothing worked & its capabilities would you be interested in gaining a better understanding?

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

YES 18 3 6 0 6

NO 2 2 2 13 0

Total

43

9

|

Total 20 5 8 13 6 52

Q4. If you had a better understanding of the functions & benefits of Smart Clothing do you think you would be more inclined to purchase?

YES

NO

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

19 4 7 9 5

1 1 1 4 1

20 5 8 13 6

Total

44

9

52

xi

|

| Total | Comments

Q6. Do you think Wellbeing & Social Communication capabilities have more value within Smart Clothing in comparison to Entertainment e.g. LED clothing.

52

ANSWERED

HEALTH RISKS DIFFICULTY USING WASHABILITY COMFORT

YES

NO

|

Total

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

13 3 5 9 4

7 2 3 4 6

20 5 8 13 6

Total

34

18

52

Q7. Do you think you are dependent on your technological possessions? If yes how does this alter your behaviour?

YES

NO

|

Total | Comments

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

14 4 3 6 4

6 1 5 7 2

20 5 8 13 6

7 3 3 5 0

Total

31

21

52

18

Q8. Would you communicate more or less with people face to face if you had a Smart Garment with Social Communication capabilities?

Total

MORE

LESS

|

Total

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

6 3 1 9 4

14 2 7 4 2

20 5 8 13 6

Total

23

29

52

Q9. Age

Q5.From your current knowledge of Smart Clothing what would most deter you from purchasing a Smart Garment?

18-24

25-30

31-40

41-50

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

20 0 0 0 0

0 5 0 0 0

0 0 8 0 0

0 0 0 13 0

0 0 0 0 6

20 5 8 13 6

Total

20

5

8

13

6

52

Answer 1 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Ugly nature of product.

50+ | Total

Answer 2 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: The general appearance of the product, I wouldn’t want it to be bulky with visiable wires. I would’nt want other to know necessairly that i was wearing a piece of Smart Clothing

Q10. Gender MALE

FEMALE

RATHER NOT STATE

18-24 25-30 31-40 41-50 50+

3 2 3 2 2

17 3 4 11 4

0 0 1 0 0

20 5 8 13 6

Total

12

1

52

APPENDIX B:

39

|

Total

Online Survey Comments Transcript

Q2. If yes, what do you know? - About Smart Clothing Answer 1 Age: 18-24 Gender: Male Comment: Tech embbedded into the clothing

Answer 5 Age: 18-24 Gender: Male Comment: Clothing with integrated tech.

Answer 2 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: Technology with fabric blends

Answer 6 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: Very little. i just bought a pair of gloves with smart tech for my phone though.

Answer 3 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Smart Clothing is adpative to the person &/or environments surrounding Answer 4 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Clothing that interacts with the wearer basically adapts to them & can involve tech etc.

xiii

Answer 7 Age: 31-40 Gender: Female Comment: Clothing incorporating tech.

Answer 8 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: Clothing that has gagetry within the fibre or body of the fabric.

Answer 6 Age: 25-30 Gender: Female Comment: The item of clothing personally I’d like to be able to wash as this would be my primary barrier in not buying a “smart” piece of clothing. Even, if just hand washing could be incorporated that would make a difference.

Answer 7 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: I would say most of the above.

Answer 3 Age: 25-30 Gender: Female Answer 8 Comment: If it was a top with a heart monitor you would want to wash it regularly - needs to be remove- Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: No understanding of the product. able Answer 4 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: All of the above would impact my purchasing.

Answer 9 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: I have no prior knowledge

Answer 5 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: I would consider lack of wearibilty & health risks in equal meseaure

Answer 10 Age: 25-30 Gender: Male Comment: being able to easily use the product is essential in getting people to use it time again

Q7. Do you think you are dependent on your technological possessions? If yes how does this alter your behaviour?

Answer 1 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Always preoccupied Answer 2 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: I like to constantly check for emails etc and look what the latest posts on Instagram are.

Otherwise it could take you a whole day to check the previous day’s posts. Sad but I think a lot of people are orientated this way!

Answer 3 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: I isolate myself from others and become very ignorant to what is going on around me.

Answer 4 Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: I think a lot of people would be lost without their phones or links to the Internet Answer 5 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: Less communication face to face Answer 6 Age: 25-30 Gender: Female Comment: Constantly looking at phone and feel lost without it.

Answer 7 Answer 14 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Yes I carry my phone everywhere with me. Comment: Some people cannot cope without technological possessions. I am not one of them Answer 8 Age: 31-40 Gender: Male Answer 15 Comment: Mobile phone , and wifi alters everyones Age: 25-30 Gender: Female behaviour. Hence the new term coined FOMO Fear Comment: Yes staying up to date on social media is Of Missing Out will be in years to come the new OCD now expected along with WiFi connections...gone or Bi Polar etc which were originally known as behav- are the days where you’d take a bag with a paper iour problems to most. pad, pen, diary, phone, mp3 player, digital cameras. this shift shows that the consumer now expects one product to be able to multi task.

Answer 9 Age: 25-30 Gender: Male Answer 16 Comment: Less inclined to memorise information Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment:Yes - laptop and phone, my whole busiAnswer 10 ness and survival depends on those two things.

Age: 18-24 Gender: Male Comment:I need technology for my job, so need to Answer 17 have access to remote technologies.

Age: 18-24 Gender: Male Answer 11 Comment: Always on my phone Age: 31-40 Gender: Male Answer 18 Comment: Yes phone Age: 25-30 Gender: Female Answer 12 Comment: Ensuring of battery life Keeping it safe Age: 18-24 Gender: Female Comment: Always looking at my phone, feel like I need to reply straight away.

Answer 13 Age: 41-50 Gender: Female Comment: not being able to contact people with my phone would be a pain, but i only really use my phone as a phone, not the APPS. id be more lonely.

APPENDIX C:

Online Survey Comments Coding Table

Code

Definitions of Smart Clothing

xv

Description

Times occured our of X (X = No. of responses to question)

What the public would define 5 out of 8 smart clothing as with consideration to integration, interaction, adaption of tech within clothing.

Fabrics/Materials

Textiles involved with Smart Clothing e.g Conductive yarns

2 out of 8

Challenges Knowledge Levels

Publics current understanding of Smart Clothing

2 out of 10

Public Perception

What do the public think of Smart Clothing as a whole.

4 out of 10

Washability

The ability to wash the product

2 out of 10

Behaviours Dependence

Depending on technology in any way.

6 out of 18

Isolation/loneliness

The feeling of being alone, away from others.

4 out of 18

Convienence

Having easy access to a product 2 out of 18

Communication

How we contact eachother

5 out of 18

APPENDIX D: Structured Interview 1 - Guide This interview was carried out in order to gain primary knowledge of the term “Computation Design” a term that arose on numerous occasions throughout the secondary research for this study.

tempting to embed computational design into our clothes?

4. What do you think are the greatest challenges designers/technologists are facing when attempting to bring computational design to mass market? in terms of public perception, functionality, price etc.

I am a third year student at Birmingham City University currently studying for my BA honours in Fashion business.

For my Dissertation, I have decided to study the integration of fashion and science within our clothing, the increase in human capability this will cause and the effects this will have on consumer/lifestyle & the challenges the industry faces when attempting to bring these kind of products to mass market. Thank you for participating in my primary research.

5. Do you believe there is significant consumer demand at present for “Smart Clothing”

1. How would you define Computational Design?

7. How long do you predict it will take before we see computational design within clothing appear in the mass market?

2. How do you believe it relates to Smart clothing?

3. What do you think are the greatest challenges designers/technologists are facing when at-

6. If so where do you suggest this demand is coming from? - Motives etc.

8. Are there any brands you know of that are doing something interesting within the field of Smart Clothing/Textiles? - experimentation, R&D.

9. Is there any interesting/notable discoveries you have come across in your own experiments/research?

2. What impact do you think the production of IG’s will have on the traditional process of design?

APPENDIX E: Structured Interview 1 Transcript

3. How long do you predict it will take before we see IG’s for everyday use appear on the market?

Richard Colson Subject leader

4. Do you believe there is significant consumer demand at present for Intelligent Garments?

2. Clothing is fundamentally dynamic and provisional. All sorts of factors impinge on the structure of Smart clothing.

The monitoring of change in the environment by means of built in sensors systems. This data has to be collected and analysed so that modifications can incorporate real time data streams 3. The main problem is power. Batteries tend to be heavy in themselves and their power quick to be exhausted. Thin Film batteries are crucial if Smart clothing is to become more widely accepted. Currently the take up remains limited to occupational niche markets and sectors The other problem is moisture and the problem of laundering expensive intricate devices embedded in cloth or accessories 4. One key hurdle to surmount is the need to gain public acceptance of the fact that personal data may need to be shared in order for clothing to contribute to Smart City initiatives and publicly held data sets. Gerard Grech’s recent suggestions that cities might be seen as “platforms” in which there is an exchange of data in the interest of improving public systems and spaces for every citizen.

5. There is high demand in specialist industries, the military, occupational training etc. My understanding is that the adaptable nature of smart clothing makes it more attractive to designers at the concept end of the market rather than the high street 6. Part of the demand comes from a general public interest in the new and cutting edge aspects of design.

7. We haven’t yet seen the Killer App which is going to take the smart clothing win the sort of acceptance we associate with hand held devices and technologies Yes it is there as part of sports clothing, public services, police etc But there is a resistance based on fear of sharing personal data which is acting as a dampener on the drive for full take up by the mass market. But this market is going to grow.

When the public begin to see the advantages spelt out clearly, we are bound to get to the point where this reluctance is overcome.

8. Levis 9. http://makezine.com/2014/11/06/e-traces-ballet-slippersthat-make-drawings-from-the-dancers-movements/ http://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/mit-media-lab-tangible-media-group-biologic-material-bacteria-fashion-design/ h tt p : / / w w w. c r e a t i v e a p p l i c a t i o n s . n e t / a r d u i n o - 2 / unimorph-rapid-digital-fabrication-of-customized-thin-film-shape-changing-interfaces/

APPENDIX F: Structured Interview 2 - Guide This interview was carried out in order to gain primary knowledge of the proposed issues designers will face when attempting to bring Smart Clothing to mass market from a teacher of design’s point of view.

xvii

*IGs = Intelligent Garments

APPENDIX G: Structured Interview 2 Transcript

MA/MSC Computational Design Ravensbourne 1. Computational Design allows the practitioner to propose solutions based on an algorithmic approach to handling materials. The materials could be data, Graphics, 3D structures, synthetic environments or networks. The key thing with Computational Design is its real time dynamic response to change and new sorts of proposals built on probabilities and statistics. Computational Design allows for systems that can be configured to change themselves.

5. If so where do you suggest this demand is coming from? - Motives etc.

1. What do you think are the greatest challenges designers are facing in bringing IG’s to mass market/ everyday use? e.g. wearability, functionality?

Jane Grice Programme Director BA(Hons) Fashion Design BCU

1. Wearability on both counts but also Aesthetic appeal if it’s a fashion item; functionality if it’s for performance or medical.

2. This is a big question, I think engineers and scientists will need to collaborate with designers.

3. Less than 5 years in sport and medicine, possibly a lot longer even never in fashion.

4. I don’t think there is a demand in terms of fashion, I think there might be in terms of monitoring performance and medical conditions. I could see for example parents might buy baby clothes that monitor babies vital signs. Or that performance athletes might buy into something similar that measures their heart rate, breathing rate etc.

But for Fashion no only in the gimmick sector which would be short lived.

Virtual hugs - probably not, technology such as iPads or phones embedded within garments - probably not as its not practical for garment care and all your garment would need it or you would have to wear the same thing everyday.

5. potential motives could be Fear (of a medical condition) Competition Fun (gimmicks)

APPENDIX H: Structured Interview 3 Guide This interview was carried out in order to gain primary knowledge specifically around the Smart Textiles and materials elements of Smart Clothing.

I am a third year student at Birmingham City University currently studying for my BA honours in Fashion business.

For my Dissertation, I have decided to study the integration of fashion and science within our clothing, the increase in human capability this will cause and the effects this will have on consumer/lifestyle & the challenges the industry faces when attempting to bring these kind of products to mass market.

Thank you for participating in my primary research.

This is a fairly casual interview so please feel free to answer as in-depth as you can and raise any additional ideas/thoughts for further research. To clarify when I say “capabilities” - this is specific to the health/wellbeing & social communication capabilities smart clothing will allow the user.

Below is a set of 8 questions for you to complete.

Q1. How would you define Smart clothing / Smart Textiles?

Q2. Which materials & fibres are driving the creation of “smart clothing”? Please explain…

Q3. What do you think are greatest challenges de- Q6. How long do you predict it will take before we see signers/technologists are facing when attempting “Smart Clothing” for everyday use appear on the marto bring “Smart clothing” to mass market? in terms ket? of public perception, functionality, wearability, price etc.

Q7. Are there any brands you know of that are doQ4. Do you believe there is significant consumer de- ing something interesting within the field of Smart Clothing/Textiles? - experimentation, R&D. mand at present for “Smart Clothing” Q5. If so where do you suggest this demand is coming from? - Motives etc.

Q8. Is there any interesting/notable discoveries you have come across in your own experiments/research?

Cute Circuit Hussein Chalayan Amanda Parkes Sabine Seymour Studio XO

APPENDIX J: Structured Interviews - Coding Table

APPENDIX I: Structured Interview 3 Transcript

Sasha De Koninck Graduate

MFA in Fiber and Material Studies School of the Art Institue of Chicago Q1. I break them down into two different categories.

Smart Textiles: Textiles that are either 1.) woven with ‘smart’ materials such as conductive yarn, memory alloys, etc. or 2.) have the actual electronics woven into them (see the work of weaver Barbara Layne). Smart textiles actually have the technology embedded in the structures. Material that could be used to make Smart Clothing. Smart Clothing: When technology is integrated into the actual garment design.

ence and how does that change, if anything, our relationship with technology and our bodies. The third challenge is power. What is the power source for the garment? Does it need charging? How much power is required for it to run all day?

And the fourth challenge is the largest. Is it washable/ how do we clean it?

Q8. i am starting to learn more about the world of 3d Printing and i think it could also affect the clothing industry, escepcially on the production end. They just need to develop better materials for printing.

Code

Description

How many respondents mentioned theme out of X (X = No. of totsl interviewees)

Consumer Appetite

Demand for the product.

3 out of 3

Obstacles Data Security

The security of data obtained and shared by Smart Clothing

1 out of 3

Power

The issue of charging the product - locating energy sources.

2 out of 3

Washabilitiy

The ability to wash the product

2 out of 3

Timing

Predictions made as to the time 2 out of 3 it will take to see Smart Clothing enter mass the market.

Technacalities

The technologies/materials that are driving the creation of Smart Clothing

Q4. I don’t know that there is a significant demand yet for smart clothing. I think once a good product comes out that is not an accessory or worn on Q2. Conductive yarns are really driving the crea- the wrist and does more than your fitness tracktion of smart clothing. Many different sensors can be creat- er, there could be a demand. ed with the right conductive materials and right textile structures. Google and Levi’s ‘Project Jacquard’ uses the integra- Q5. I think there will be a demand in the health/sports/fittion of conductive yarn in the textile to create a new sur- ness world for clothing that can monitor vitals and perforface for accessing your smartphone via your denim. Solar panel tech- mance with accuracy. nology is another area that is being research for smart clothing. Flexible solar panels have been developed, but some are trying to push that research forward and actually create so- Q6.

I think it will only take a couple of years to see smart clothlar yarn that can be woven into any textile. ing enter the mass market.

APPENDIX K : Semi - Structured Interview Guide

Q3. In my opinion, there are several challenges. The first one is integration. How is the technology integrated into the clothing. And that also leadsto user experience. What is the user experi-

This purpose of this interview was to obtain a more indepth response to the questions published within the online survey. This allowed the a more detailed understanding of the consumer perception of Smart Clothing and the main issues believed to be hindering this product from entering the mass market.

xix

Q7.

Google Ralph Lauren­ http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index. jsp?productId=69917696

2 out of 3

Establishing Knowledge of Smart Clothing

communicating with people in comparisons to LED display capabilities

Q1. Do you know what intelligent garments/smart textiles are?

Q2. what do you know about them at present? with regards to capabilities & function?

Issues & Challenges

Significance and Demand

Consumer Behaviours

Q1. Do you see intelligent garments as the next logical product to emerge from the evolution of clothing & textiles Q2.Do you believe if there was more information / knowledge subjected to consumers of mm they would be more interested in purchasing?

Q3.Do you think the best way to appeal to mm is to provide a product with real benefit and value e.g. detecting illness,

Q1.What do you think is the industry most challenging factors (to overcome) when attempting to bring intelligent garments to mm?

Q1. How do you think people will respond to the capabilities Smart Clothing will allow them? e.g. illness detected in its infancy through sensors.

Q2. What impact on behaviours do you think this will have on us as humans? in terms of how we treat others and ourselves Q3. Would you communicate more or less with people face to face if you had an intelligent garment?

APPENDIX L: Semi - Structured Interview Transcript Semi structured transcription 1 Commencing Interview 1 at Respondent 1 is female, 48 years of age Occupation: Office Manager Interviewer: So basically i am going to ask you some questions regarding the research topic of intelligent garments, its more of a discussion though so please don’t hesitate to make a point about something or raise ideas & thoughts.

Respondent 1: Ok, thats fine.

I: what do you know about intelligent garments?

R1: Hmm (Pause) i have a general idea, but obviously its not something thats in the general media so i would understand that fibres would have some sort of technological filaments, and what not.

I: Ok so obviously thats what you know at present about intelligent garments R1: (interrupts) yeah extremely limited knowledge on the subject I: (continues) do you see intelligent garments as the next logical product to emerge from the evolution of clothing?

R1: (Immediately) no I: Ok and why is that?

R1:its isn’t the next logical one because of price points

xxi

because its not logical for a sector to manufacture goods that people cant afford, effectually the majority of people are still shopping at primark because of price point.

I:So do you think if the problem was solved of manufacturing and distribution making costs lower and the general public were more educated on the product that people would be more likely to adopt?

R1:Again its very niche, its very niche market so its all about understanding what people can afford, i think still it would take years for the technology to get to a point where they could manufacture the textiles, the fabrics cheaply, inexpensively. i think with adopting or purchasing its a very price conscious thing.”

I: Ok so do you think if there was more information out there about smart garments, what its capabilities are, so it how it could benefit them, how it functions that people would be more interest in purchasing the product?

R1: It would generate more interest obviously. i think with adopting or purchasing its a very price conscious thing.

I: Do you think the best way to appeal to mm is to provide a product with real benefit and value e.g. detecting illness, communicating with people in comparisons to LED display capabilities R1: I suppose if they could produce fabrics say in like bionics as opposing to having braces you know if a pair of jeans could lift a persons leg that would be amazing so connected to the neurological thought process things like that the

science behind it which again its a sector thats not mass publicised so the general populous aren’t even aware of what they are even doing now. a lot to do with research and development, experimenting.

I: What do you think is the industry most challenging factors (to overcome) when attempting to bring intelligent garments to mm?

R1: They are all integral to that you know market prospering because effectually first comes your price points then what does the garment do, you know we have jeans now. so what is that special jeans going to do for me with technological fibers running through it. what is that going to do, so its all important what comes first, price comes first at the end of the day again.

I: Yes, so How do you think people will respond to the capibilites within Smart Clothing?

R1: I think physiologically there are different devices now out there that aren’t clothes watches, apps various other things, that already can do similar functions, what is the purpose of the smart garment if its just going to tell me what my heart rate is I’m not going to buy a jacket that can do that for say £300 when i can get a watch for £100 that can tell me the same thing. would it make a person more health conscious, well if i was already that way inclined i would already have gadgets, that could monitor my heart rate & wellbeing, that would do the job so i wouldn’t necessarily need the jacket.

I: Ok thats great R1: (interrupts) unless of course i wanted the top of the range of everything, great but again it boils down to price point because the lower class population may want to have those capabilities but would never be able to afford it no matter how health conscious they would be.

I: What impact on behaviours do you think this will have on us as humans? in terms of how we treat others and ourselves R1: Well people don’t actually communicate verbally any longer its all in a virtual world although it will take a while or if when ever smart clothing/fabrics launch it will take a few years for it to enter the mass market and then further time to impact on behaviours so its difficult to predict the shift, the change.

I: Ok thank you very much, so would you communicate more or less with people face to face if you had an intelligent garment? with social communication capabilities?

R1: I dont know, you know am i going to be able to access something from my sleeve or my sleeve cuff quicker than i could on my phone?, so i don’t think it would really change i either FaceTime someone from a button on my sleeve or jacket or do it from my phone, its the same to me. w I: Ok, so what I’ve taken from this interview is that you believe in order for truly intelligent garments to be purchased by the general public price most definitely needs to be considered as its the main driving force behind people buying in general? & that the differentiating selling point between the capabilities of clothing and the already present capabilities within smart wearables (as accessories) needs to be discovered and made clearer, more obvious to the consumer.

R1: Yes thats totally right I: Ok thank you very much, thank you for participating in this interview, we are now finished.

APPENDIX M: Semi - Structured Interview Code

Coding Table

Description

Consumer knowledge

Current levels of consumer knwoeldge on the subject of Smart Clothing.

Public Perception

What do the public think of Smart Clothing as a whole.

USP

The unique selling point of Smart Clothing in comparison to other smart wearables e.g. watches

Price Points

Prices at which the product may be marketed.

Behavoiurs

Every physical action and observable emotion associated with individuals

Media Coverage

The extent to which the subject is publicised.

xxiii