Reasons to visit the southern peloponnese

20 knockout things to do in the southern Peloponnese Step back in time at Ancient Messene GREECE may be out the door with ancient sites but this one is a knockout because of its position, on a plain beneath the towering Mt Ithome and Mt Eva. There is much to marvel at here, including the Asklepeion Temple, the Fountain House, stadium and amphitheatre.

The city was supposedly founded around the 10th century BC by Queen Messene, daughter of one of the kings of Argos (the original city of Argos, not the shopping chain) and an altar of Zeus was built on Mount Ithome. After holding out for centuries against the nearby warring Spartans, Ancient Messene fell to the Romans in 146BC. The present-day village here is Mavromati, with an ancient fountain on its main street, which has been gushing cool water since ancient times from the spring of Klepsydra, carried down from Mt Ithome. It is the sweetest water you can find in this region.

Take the plunge at Polylimnia THIS beauty spot west of Kalamata (on the road to Pylos) has rock pools to suit all tastes, from footbaths to the gorgeous diving pool at the top. The pools are filled from a waterfall spouting from the top of a wooded gorge.

You ascend the gorge on a narrow winding path to various levels, so good walking shoes are needed and pack a swimming costume because once you get to the top, on a hot day, you will want to leap into the top pool, which is deep with pale blue, chilly waters. Daredevils can climb to a ledge on the rockface and dive straight into the water below.

But don't go in August when Greeks are on holiday because this is a favourite watering hole and the place will be heaving with people.

Kalamata ... by day KALAMATA, at the head of the Gulf of Messinia, is buzzy and modern with a lively seafront crammed with cafes and bars, and a marina with some of the city's best restaurants.

To get into the life and soul of this place, go to the old town beneath the Frankish castle (the Kastro) and visit the market (Wednesdays and Saturdays), where you can buy some of the freshest fruit and veg in the city at low prices. Visit the nearby restaurant Ta Rolla for good food and a traditional retsina straight from the barrel.

Nearby ouzeries serve the national aperitif, ouzo, and small snacks called mezedes.

There is a splendid archaelogical museum in Benaki Street and many fine churches, including the city's Metropolitan Church of the Ypapanti tou Sotiros with a famous icon of the Virgin Mary.

Kalamata ... by night THE seafront at Kalamata is the coolest place to be at night, with dozens of cafes and pasty shops rubbing shoulders along Navarinou St, each with a large outside seating area as well. On a hot August night you will see this area packed out until the small hours as apartment dwellers seek some relief from the heat.

In the summer, the amphitheatre (pictured) in the Kastro, in the old quarter, is one of the main venues for the yearly Dance Festival and other arts events, including Greek rock bands and well-known Greek singers and composers. The theatre setting is superb, surrounded by tall trees with one preserved in the middle of the seating area - and the view of the city and the nearby Taygetos Mountains is truly unique.

Watch the sun set at Kitries harbour TINY Kitries harbour is just a half-hour drive on the coastal road south of Kalamata, in the Mani region (middle peninsula). It is tucked away at the end of Kitries Bay, past the long and sandy Sandova Beach. It's a glorious spot to watch the sun setting in summer as small fishing boats bob about in the water nearby or return with their catches.

This fishing village has a kafenion and two tavernas, all on the waterfront, where you can enjoy the feshly caught fish and seafood.

Kitries has a tiny pebble beach, so you can have a swim before or after lunch.

Kitries was once an important anchorage and walled complex, but this fortification was destroyed in an earthquake.

Walk along a kalderimi THE Mani region is criss-crossed by a network of old kalderimis - stone mule paths - that once connected most of the villages. Although they are still used by many local farmers on donkeys, they are also popular with walkers. One of the most enjoyable routes stretches from near the historic church of Agios Nikolaos at Sotirianika to the town of Kambos and takes around two hours to complete. Halfway along the path, you will cross an 18th-century stone bridge, which spans the Koskaraka Gorge - an excellent place to stop for a picnic lunch.

Make sure you wear sturdy walking shoes, as these stone paths are very unforgiving on the feet.

For more information on walking in the Mani refer to the excellent book Inside the Mani by Matthew

Dean www.insidemani.gr

Take to the gorgeous gorges THE Taygetos Mountain range makes the Mani region of the Peloponnese an outstanding, picturesque area. One of its features are the deep, long gorges like the famous Viros and Rindomo (pictured left). You can combine a walk through several of the hillside villages with an exploration of the Viros Gorge by starting at the town of Kambos and driving a short distance into the village of Tseria on the lower slopes of the Taygetos.

From here there are several lower villages to explore, such as Zacharias and Pedino, but from Tseria there is a clealy market walking track down a kalderimi to the bottom of the gorge and up the other side to the opposite village of Exohorio.

You can see the Rindomo Gorge by taking the same route from Kambos. Not far out of the town you will find the village of Kendro and nearby Anatoliko, where a walking track to Rindomo is marked. For walking tracks see the book mentioned above, Inside the Mani.

Saints and mermaids at Kambos church ONE of the loveliest Byzantine churches in the north Mani region is Ayios Theodoros in the town of Kambos, right on its main street. This church is famous for its outstanding frescoes, still in good condition, including the one, left, called the Panayia Playtera (Wide Wings of Heaven). There are many frescoes of saints and martyrs, and the charming double-tailed mermaid, a distinctive image in the Mani.

Dragons, serpents and other beguiling creatures are featured as well as a glorious example of what is known as The Praises, featuring a

zodiac sign with lovely illustrations.

Unlike many churches in Greece, this one is rarely closed but if it is, ask at the main plateia (square) and someone will find you a key.

Kambos also has a Mycenaean tombs by the main road and there are several kafeneions and a small taverna on the plateia which is open every day.

Skulduggery at Trikotsova Castle THE early 19th-century Trikotsova Castle at Haravgi, off the Kalamata to Stoupa road, isn't one of the oldest castles or towers in the Mani cregion, but it is one of the most spectacular, with sweeping views of Kalamata and the Taygetos mountains.

The castle's founder was Giorgios Kapetanakis, who was one of the leaders of the local Maniat clans, and one of his descendants is buried in a vault at the side of the castle ... where the stone lid has slipped to chillingly reveal the remains of a skeleton, with the skull clearly visible. Spooky!

Trikotsova Castle is easily accessible by road from the hamlet of Haravgi, making it an ideal spot for a picnic with a nice shady inner courtyard.

The tiny church of Profitis Illias forms part of the south wall of the castle and is generally open.

See fabulous frescoes before they fade WE'VE put another ecclesiastical venue on this list as the chapel at the monastery of Ayios Giorgios (St George), on the outskirts of the village of Proastio, south of Kardamili, has yet more stunning examples of Byzantine frescoes.

The monastery also has ruined monks' quarters and a walled garden with old cypress trees, all somewhat neglected now, but with views of the Taygetos mountains. The main fresco of St George slaying the dragon is outstanding as are many of the others, though many are crumbling and faded so it is as well to see them now while they last.

From the church you can also walk along a kalderimi to the nearby villages of Petrovouni and Ayia Sophia, and beyond and the village of Proastia is a traditional Greek village, slightly neglected in parts but with cobbled lanes, some fine churches and a shady main square with a small shop.

View the shipwrecked MV Dimitrios IF you drive east along the coast road from fishing town of Gythio, at the head of the Laconicos Gulf in Laconia, the beached and burnt-out wreck of the MV Dimitrios hoves into view as you look down to Glyfada Beach.

This vessel caught fire and ran aground on the beach around 30 years ago - and has never been salvaged.

You can walk along the beach to stand in the shadow of the towering, rusting shipwreck - it makes a great photograph - while swimmers and snorkellers head around the boat to examine it up close. There's also a large, shady taverna on the beach. Gythio is also a delightful spot with its wide harbour and fine selection of fish tavernas, some still indulging in the old habit of hanging their octopus

out to dry on a nearby line.

Make magic at Monemvasia STILL a little-known rocky outcrop on the east side of the Laconian peninsula that knocks the socks off Gibraltar. This massive rock island, that seems to float on the Myrtoan Sea, split from the mainland in 375AD during an earthquake. It's tiny town of Kastro has thick fortified walls and was well protected against invaders including Venetians and Turks, though few ever succeeded in capturing the rock.

Kastro has narrow cobbled streets and most of its stone houses date back to the 12th century, as do its many churches and the atmospheric Ayia Sophia perched on a cliff edge at the top of the rock. The town has undergone considerable but senstive restoration in the past 30 years and is the perfect place for a romantic getaway because of its sea views and the fact there are no cars on the island, or overhead wires, phone masts and other reminders of the modern world. There are three very good tavernas in Kastro as well as several bars and cafes with sunset terraces. www.monemvasia.com

Swim to the world's oldest submerged city ONE of the most atmospheric stretches of water in the whole of Greece is at the foot of the Laconian peninsula, just north of Neapolis.

The archaelogical site of Pavlopetri is well hidden - under water - and is reputed to be the world's oldest submerged city, established in the Bronze age, around 5,000 years ago, and flourishing in the later Mycenaean Age. In a sheltered harbour at Pounda beach, near Viglafia, you will find a sign

for the sight but the rest is up to you.

Walk east along the golden sands and you should see some of the old city clearly visible through the pale blue waters. Snorkel out and you find the remnants of ancient walls and walkways, which is a unique experience. If you go further round beyond a sandbar opposite a small grassy island you will find the rest of the city. From the harbour you can catch a ferry (leaving every five minutes in summer) to the tiny island opposite, Elafonisos, which has glorious sandy beaches.

Make a splash at Costa Navarino resort THE 400 million euro Navarino Bay resort - the first stage of the 1.2 billion euro Costa Navarino tourism project - opened in May this year just north of the town of Pylos on the Messinian peninsula. This five-star resort, featuring two hotel complexes and the Dunes golf course, is right on the beach, looking out to the Ionian Sea. It's not cheap to stay here - from around 400 euros a night - but many rooms have their own infinity pool. If you really want to push the boat out, you could hire one of the two presidential suites (which are massive, separate villas), which reportedly cost around 10,000 euros a night.

A Saudi princess stayed in one of these suites recently for 10 nights, racking up a bill of around 100,000 euros ... but she kept the costs down a bit by taking along her own chef!

Stroll around old Kardamili THE village of Kardamili on the Mani peninsula, in the shadow of the mighty Viros Gorge, is a popular spot for tourists and locals with clean pebble beaches and shops and tavernas. It is still home to Patrick Leigh Fermor, who wrote the definitive guide called The Mani.

This village has a long history and was mentioned in Homer's Iliad.

Visit the old part of Kardamili just behind the modern village, which was once the family stronghold of the powerful Mourtzinos family from the 17th century. Many of the old buildings have been restored, including the main tower house with its curious Maniot stone carving (pictured). There is an excellent museum giving an insight into the life and struggles of this family and the Maniot people, who due to their clan struggles built the distinctive stone tower houses. From the back of the old town you can walk a track up to the village of Ayia Sophia and along the foothills to neighbouring villages. www.kardamili-greece.com

Go castle crazy at Koroni and Methoni THE seaside towns of Koroni (pictured left) and Methoni lie at opposite sides of the Messian peninsula, yet their history is closely aligned and both have Venetian castles.

Methoni Castle is the biggest and most impressive of the two, surrounded on three sides by the sea, with a dry moat on its landward side, which is spanned by a stone bridge leading to a monumental gate built in 1700. The castle is open daily from 9am to 7pm and is well worth a visit.

Koroni Castle sits on a bluff and is

also surrounded by the sea on three sides. Inside its stone walls are tiny houses and churches, with a network of underground passages.

Koroni harbour is lined with fish tavernas, with great views of the castle, leading to a neoclassical square.

Ascend the glory of ancient Mystras THE remnants of the Byzantine town of Mystras is a scramble of ruins and restored churches down a steep rocky outcrop of the Taygetos Mountains about 6km from the city of Sparta.

Known in ancient times as the Florence of the East, Mystras was estabished in the 13th century and was the last great outpost of the mighty Byzantine civilisation. Many of the important churches here (the Perivleptos, the Pantanassa) were built in the 14th century and have some of the finest frescoes in Greece. Even if Byzantine churches aren't your thing, this is a lovely, UNESCO-listed site to explore.

But if frescoes and icons do interest you, why not have your own icon, specially designed and painted according to age-old methods by Byzantine artist Maria Tsimboka, who has a workshop and gallery called Porfyra in the modern town of Mystras, nearby, where you can also watch her at work. Inspiring!

Gialova and the Voidokoilia wetland THE pretty village of Gialova, on Navarino Bay just north of Pylos, has a gem of a beach, with plenty of trees for shade on really hot days. The road through the village is lined with shops and tavernas, making it an ideal place to spend a day and an easy drive from the buzzy town of Pylos.

Just north of Gialova is the pristine and deserted Voidokoilia wetland, a perfectly round shallow bay that was once the ancient harbour of Pylos.

The bay is a haven for wildlife loggerhead turtles nest there and it's the only habitat of the African chameleon in Europe. Around 250 species of birds have been sighted at this wonderful lagoon, including flamingoes, herons, osprey and cormorants.

Halfway to heaven ... at Ano Verga IF you really want to get your head in the clouds, then drive up to the village of Ano Verga, which is perched 3,000ft above sea level in the Taygetos mountains just south of Kalamata.

Take the turn-off through Sotirianika off the main Kalamata-Stoupa road and you will travel up a long and winding road but it's not for the faint-hearted as the narrow road is pretty scary in places and a sense of vertigo can easily set in. However, when you reach Ano Verga at the top of the road there are breath-taking views down to Kalamata (see picture left) - you feel as though you're looking down from an airplane window several minutes after take-off.

There's a newish taverna, called Less 5, perched on the hillside with

probably the best views of any restaurant in the region, but it's only open at weekends.

Halfway to Hades... at Cape Tainaron IT might not seem like a holiday highlight, taking a trip to hell, but Cape Tainaron, the southernmost tip of the Mani Peninsula, is home to the entrance of Hades in a cave in a small bay. Hades was the God of the Underworld in Greek mythology and the dead were ferried across here to their final destination. Great myths surround it - Orpheus descended here in search of Eurydice and the three-headed dog Cerberos made an appearance here.

The great travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor in chapter 10 of his book the Mani has a wonderful description of exploring this cave. But take care, old Gods die hard, so organise a local boatman to escort you.