A/W 15
ANIA KANWAL
Contents
01.Print and Graphics Illusionist..................................1.2 More Than Words..............................1.3 Electro Clash................................1.4 02.Sports and Menswear Natural Neutrals.............................2.2 50 Shades Of Cool............................2.3 Share The Flare..............................2.4 03.Creative Direction Kaleido Krazy................................3.2 Miss Mod.....................................3.3 Rendering Reality............................3.4 04.Visual Merchandising and Instore Design For Folk Sake................................4.2 Cant Bear It.................................4.3 High Volume..................................4.4 05. List of Illustrations
Autumn Winter 2015
Illusionist More Than Words Electro Clash
Fig.2. Illusionist (2015)
Illusionist
Autumn Winter 2015
Illusionist is inspired by a simple architectural aesthetic, its basic shapes in a consistent rhythm and skewed detail that creates areas of interest. This trend is also inspired by Jan Albers 3D artwork and Emilio Pucci’s A/W 15 collection.
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Fig.4: More than words (2015)
More Than Words
Autumn Winter 2015
The overriding look for the A/W 15/16 statement T-shirt takes on a simplified, mock-vintage feel. Bold monotone messages in capitalised sans-serif fonts continue to prove important. Athletic-inspired lettering with wider spacing updates the classic motif. Embodying the increasing trend for application, depth and value are added to basic designs with chenille appliquĂŠ and flock prints.
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Fig. 6. Electro Clash (2015)
Electro Clash
Autumn Winter 2015
Cut-and-paste techniques create a new collage-style for print and graphics A/W 15/16.Typography Appears sliced with cloudy skylines. Clashing floral prints join in contrast and Poster-style artwork appears ripped and torn. Block panels are pieced together to build patchwork textures. Clashing asymmetrical colour blocks jar against patters and photo prints; geometric and vintage motifs create a new reassembled direction, updating basic sweats for the casual-wear market.
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NATURAL NEUTRALS 50 SHADES OF COOL SHARE THE FLARE
Fig.8: Natural Neutrals (2015)
Natural Neutrals
Autumn Winter 2015
Following on from other pastel trends such as S/S 14, this a/w 15 trend takes a new approach on incorporating it into sportswear (which usually focuses on eye-catching neon colour tones). The palette has cooler pastel shades to it, with the addition of a Combat green being added as a pastel, in combination with the calm Tranquil lilac which compliment each other perfectly.
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Own Image
Own Image
Fig.10: 50 Shades of Cool (2015)
50 Shades Of Cool
Autumn Winter 2015
This trend is inspired by the cool guy. This Autumn winter 15, displayed men mixing double denim, double leather and denim and leather and pulling it off. The colours are muted and understated to give a cool thrown together look.
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Fig.12: Share the Flare (2015)
Share The Flare
Autumn Winter 2015
Share the flare, a gradual return to retro styling drives new flare and cropped boot-cut fits. Cementing the 1970s trend, designers look to boot-cut fits, exaggerated flare cuts broaden the men’s pant fit options for Autumn/ Winter15/16. The 1970s continues to inspire colours and silhouettes; consisting of a retro colour pallet including maroon, olive green and mustard play into this 70s trend.
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KALEIDO KRAZY Miss Mod Rendering Reality
Fig.14: Kaleido Krazy (2015)
Kaleido Krazy
Autumn Winter 2015
This Creative Direction theme focuses on space and the future. We noticed this theme running through Panorama trade show; from the interactive tunnels leading to the different rooms to the collections they were displaying. The trend is inspired by designers who are Iceberg and the House of Holland. WE feel the space theme is highly influenced by the headlines, such as the Solar Eclipse which is reported to be the biggest blackout since 1999 and the one way ticket to Mars.
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Fig. 15
Fig.16: Miss Mod (2015)
Miss Mod
Autumn Winter 2015
This 1960s mod-inspired look balances feminine style with a tomboy look, which should be carried through to the VM. Juxtapose feminine props with masculine light fixtures, or vice versa, tying them together with a playful 60s-inspired palette.
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Fig.18: Rendering Reality (2015)
Rendering Reality
Autumn Winter 2015
Today, we live in an image-driven world, photographing every detail of existence and circulating those snapshots worldwide This trend looks at what is real or genuine. How we manipulate images through filters – dissecting, deconstructing, distorting, interweaving, tearing apart, stripping back and multi-layering This doctoring is affecting the way we think about design, causing us to question the value of ‘real’ and ‘authentic’ scenarios and products It examines how this is affecting the way we see the world.
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FOR FOLK SAKE Cant Bear It High Volume
Fig.20: For Folk Sake (2015)
For Folk Sake
Autumn Winter 2015
Moving on from last seasons folk floral trend, it hits the catwalk once again for AW15, From folk inspired patterns using infinite geometrics, to Burberry Prorsum’s micro quilting inspired by traditional Durham techniques.
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Fig.22: Can’t Bear It (2015)
Cant Bear It
Autumn Winter 2015
Can’t bear it! Focuses on the deep, earthy tones following on from the ever popular nature trends. A palette grounded in natural hues of earthy Chestnut and Autumn Leaves are accompanied by the bright Poison Ivy green in all over prints and details.
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Fig.24: High Volume(2015)
High Volume
Autumn Winter 2015
High volume is all about customisation and doing it yourself. High Volume sees customising and DIY drive a collaborative and eclectic design ethic that supports resourcefulness and originality. This results in an eclectic DIY look when translated for VM.
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Illusionist: Figure 2, Clockwise: Christa Kaufmann, (2015), Essence [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/58233/page/8 [Accessed 20 February 15]. InDigital, (2015), Emilio Pucci A/W 2015 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci [Accessed 21 February 15]. Jan Albers, (2012), 3D Artwork [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.van-horn.net/artists/jan-albers/selected-works.html [Accessed 12 February 15]. More than words: Figure 4, Clockwise: Sam Mollaghan, (2015), Runner of the month [ONLINE]. Available at: http://toofattorun.co.uk/tag/this-girl-can/ [Accessed 25 February 15]. Hello Giggles, (2013), No size zero [ONLINE]. Available at: http://hellogiggles.com/saying-no-to-the-say-no-to-size-zero-campaign [Accessed 28 February 15]. Sports England, (2014), This girl can [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sportandrecreation.org.uk/news/30-10-2014/girl-can-campaign-launched [Accessed 17 February 15]. Own Image, (2015) Love! [photograph]. Own Image, (2015) Fashion Motif [photograph]. Electro Clash: Figure 6, Clockwise: Women on catwalk: Vogue UK, (2015). Mary Katrantzou Spring/Summer 2013 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ spring-summer-2013/ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Wgsn.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://wgsn.com [Accessed 28 May 2015) S-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/ac/5e/66/ac5e66a718a3a5254a4f75758 15c168c.png [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Briannamccarthy.com, (2015). ///\\\ : Brianna McCarthy. [online] Available at: http://www.briannamccarthy.com [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Nylon.com, (2014). electric jungle | NYLON. [online] Available at: http://www.nylon.com/articles/electric-jungle/ [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Wgsn.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://wgsn.com [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Rebloggy.com, (2015). Mathias Lauridsen, 2013 By Soo. [online] Available at: http://rebloggy.com/post/art-black-and-white-fashion-male-modelmodern-minimal-mathias-lauridsen/62502700105 [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Natural Neutrals: Figure 8, Clockwise: Premium trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Pebbles, 2014. Pinterest. Available at http://pinterest.com Show & Order trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Men’s sportswear – Available at: WGSN.com, 2015. [Accessed on 17/05/15] Steel brass divider [Jean Paul Phillipe.] 2015. [Digital image]. Pinterest. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/338755203196398989/ [Accessed on 17/05/15] Alfonso Artiaco painting, 2010. Available at http://www.pinterest.com [Accessed on 17/05/15] Adidas originals x Nigo, 2014. [Digital image]. Sneaker News. Available at http://sneakernews.com/2014/09/22/nigo-x-adidas-originals-footwearcollection/ [Accessed on 17/05/15] Men’s sportswear – Available at: WGSN.com, 2015
50 shades of cool: Figure 10, Clockwise: Matt Feniger, (2015), Fashion Week Streets A/W 15/16 Trousers [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56764/page/9 [Accessed 08 March 15]. Own Image (2015) Concession Panorama Berlin [Photograph] Matt Feniger, (2015), Fashion Week Streets A/W 15/16 Jackets [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/56764/page/9 [Accessed 08 March 15]. Own Image (2015) Concession Premium Berlin [Photograph] Share the flare: Figure 12, Clockwise: Dazed, (2015). Lanvin AW15. [online] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19174/14/lanvin-aw15 [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Clark, P. (2015). backstage at Topman Design. [online] Schön! Magazine. Available at: http://www.schonmagazine.com/TopmanDesignAW15/ [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Etsy, (2015). One Yard Vintage Wallpaper - Brown Hourglass Retro Lines 1970s Europe. [online] Available at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/98334386/ one-yard-vintage-wallpaper-brown [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Dazed, (2015). Topman Design AW15. [online] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23128/1/topman-design-aw15 [Accessed 28 May 2015]. NOWFASHION, (2015). AW 2014-2015 — Fashion Board of Gianmarco Barnes. [online] Available at: http://nowfashion.com/boards/aw-2014-2015 [Accessed 28 May 2015]. 991.com, (2015). 10Cc Deceptive Bends USA Vinyl LP Record SRM-1-3702 Deceptive Bends 10cc 427028. [online] Available at: http://991.com/Buy/ ProductInformation.aspx?StockNumber=427028 [Accessed 28 May 2015] Kaleido Krazy: Figure 14, From Left to Right Panorama trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Panorama trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Panorama trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] House of Holland A/W 15. [Digital Image]. StylAble. Available at http://stylabl.com/house-of-holland-aw-15/ [Accessed on 17/05/15] Iceberg A/W 15 [Digital Image]. Style.com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/iceberg/collection/13 [Accessed on 17/05/15] Miss Mod: Figure 16, Clockwise Monki, Berlin. 2015 [Own Image] Mary Quant (No date). [Digital Image]. Flickr. Available at https://www.flickr.com/photos/pinkponk/517227033/in/photostream Orinoco by David Annesley, 1965. [Digital Image]. Available at http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/953421/the-swinging-sixties-come-tosothebys Twiggy, 2015. [Digital Image]. Pinterest. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/513058582522233529/ 60’s Mod interior design, no date. [Digital Image]. WGSN. Available at http://wgsn.com Jean Paul Gaultier / Roche Robois, 2010. [Digital Image]. Available at http://www.yatzer.com/Jean-Paul-Gaultier-talks-to-Yatzer
Rendering Reality: Figure 18: All images Claire Dickinson,, (2014), A/W 14/15: VM inspiration [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/139575/ page/4 [Accessed 01 March 15]. Own Images (2015) Premium Trade Show Berlin [Photograph] For Folk’s Sake, Figure 20, From Left to Right: Burberry Prorsum A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.Com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/ burberry-prorsum/collection. Burberry Prorsum A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.Com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/ burberry-prorsum/collection. Burberry Prorsum A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.Com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/ burberry-prorsum/collection. Mary Katranzou A/W 15, 2015.[Digital Image]. Available at http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/02/lfw-mary-katrantzou-aw15/. Mary Katranzou A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Available at http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/02/lfw-mary-katrantzou-aw15/. Tribal Folk Patterns, 2015. [Digital Image]. WGSN. Available at http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Prints+&+Graphics/w/ A_W_15_16/19847. Tribal Folk Patterns, 2015. [Digital Image]. WGSN. Available at http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Prints+&+Graphics/w/ A_W_15_16/19847. Tribal Folk Patterns, 2015. [Digital Image]. WGSN. Available at http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/reports/#/Prints+&+Graphics/w/ A_W_15_16/19847 Can’t Bear It: Figure 22, Clockwise Panorama trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Marni A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Elle. Available at http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/news/milan-fashion-week-autumn-winter-2015-live-blogrebecca-lowthorpe Iris Van Herpen A/W 15. [Digital Image]. Dezeen. Available at http://www.dezeen.com/2015/03/13/iris-van-herpen-hacking-infinity-aw15-parisfashion-week-pleats-gauze/ Chanel S/S 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-couture/chanel/ collection/4 Show & Order Trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Iris Van Herpen A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Pinterest. Available on http://www.pinterest.com Marni A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/marni/ collection Marni A/W 15, 2015. [Digital Image]. Style.com. Available at http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/marni/ collection
High Volume: Figure 24, From Left to Right WGSN, 2015. [Digital Image]. Available at http://www.wgsn.com Bike clothes hanger, no date. [Digital Image]. Pinterest. Available at http://www.decoist.com/2013-12-02/upcycling-recycled-bicycles-for-edgyinterior-street-art/ Lights. Premium trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Bicycle wheels VM. Premium trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] DIY Trainers. Bright trade show, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image] Step Ladder VM, Berlin, 2015. [Own Image]
SWATCHES (In order of direction from top to bottom) Illusionist: Figure 3 • • • •
FC Paper texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/531424824754370285/ Wave, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Flickr. Available at https://www.flickr.com/photos/watz/4399545683/ Tile texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Tumblr. Available at http://habitualbliss.tumblr.com/post/48017558232 White fur, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Tumblr. Available at http://stratum2013.tumblr.com
More than words: Figure 5 • • • •
Jersery material, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://bigstick.ca/jerseys/material/index.htm Cotton jersey knit fabric, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://www.fabricandart.com/cotton-jersey-knit-fabrics.html Waterproof cloth, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://matbiec.net/photography/blue-waterproof-cloth-download.html Quilted knit, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.lesouk.co/material/small-blue-diamond-quilted-knit-8021
Electro Clash: Figure 7 • Tie dye fabric, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://sunporchstudio.com/tag/summer-art/ • Camo print, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.mightyskins.com/green-camo-apple-macbook-pro-13-retina/ • Denim patches, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-34-AQUA-Felt-Upholstery-Fabric-Bythe-Yard-/170671667589 • Burgundy rug, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.christopherfareed.com/designer-rugs-detail/Primo-CoralBurgundy-Shag-Rug.html via pinterest Natural Neutrals: Figure 9 • • • •
White tweed, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.eluxe.ca/en/rebecca-taylor-tweed-v-peplum-cream-optic.html Soft tan leather, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/9038-472.aspx?countryid=1032 White glossy pebbles, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://decorgenius.com Knit sock, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://showtime.arts.ac.uk/EllisJaz
50 Shades of Cool: Figure 11 • Laser cut denim, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/517914025874187816/ •Dark wash jeans, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://apartmentnumber9.com/collections/fabric-brand-jeans •Tan suede, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk/Wine-Velour-C4218 • Fraying fabric, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://yama-bato.tumblr.com/post/62694165814/butisitartphoto-sinew Share the flare: Figure 13 •Fringing, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at https://www.prettylittlething.com/ricci-tan-faux-leather-fringe-bag.html •Yellow knit, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://felt.co.nz/listing/202094/Forest-green-lime-green-yellow-ombre-scarf--hand-knit-from-100-pure-wool •Retro canvas texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.thevedahouse.com/page/11/?s=studio •Black wool, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Available at http://www.handeyemagazine.com/content/grit-glitter-0 Kaleido Krazy: Figure 15 • • • •
Blue silk, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.crazy3dfree.com/Download-3D-Texture/Cloth/Blue-silk-cloth.html Pink waterproof jacket, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://gdbclothing.co.uk/product/ts010-lightweight-jacket/ Galaxy hijab, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Pinterest. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/490188740668347179/ White chiffon, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Pinterest. Available at https://www.etsy.com/market/chiffon_fabric
Miss Mod: Figure 17 • Yellow Pleather, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at https://www.etsy.com/listing/106154739/yellow-pleather-look-60-width • Black metal, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/expanded-metal-steps-various-materialwalkway_869239767.html • Blue Velcro strap, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://ubuyadrone.com/misc-electronics/velcro-strap.html • Grass texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at https://alhodgsonn.wordpress.com/2011/01/07/the-process-of-productionfor-my-maya-animation/ Rendering Reality: Figure 19 • String art, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Pinterest. Available at http://www.jeanniejeannie.com/2012/04/string-rainbows-of-color-colorcolor-ethereal-thread-art-installations/ • Plastic spoons texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Pinterest. Available at http://coloredmondays.tumblr.com/post/11687410430/icecream-plastic-colour-spoons • Mosaic texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Pinterest. Pinterest. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/571112796472735968/ • Blue sponge texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://texturetaddka.com/cellulose-foam-sponge-textures
For Folk’s sake: Figure 21 • Crinkled silk, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://firstsilk.en.made-in-china.com/product-group/SbvxWERjbtVc/SilkChiffon-Fabric-catalog-1.html • Wool fringing, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://galleryhip.com/black-fringe-trim.html • Folk knit, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.warstuff.com/ANTIQUE-FOLK-ART-HAND-EMBROIDERED-TEXTUREELEMENT-i1544743.htm • Embroidery, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery Can’t bear it: Figure 23 • • • •
Fur texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://fox-n-wolf.deviantart.com/art/Fur-Texture-39-396871593 Black crochet, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.britexfabrics.com/lace-trim/2-3-4-black-crochet-edging-lace.html Leather scraps, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at https://www.pinterest.com/pin/420312577696328096/ Black mesh, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://galleryhip.com/mesh-png-transparent.html
High Volume: Figure 25 • Silver metallic fabric, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.edenhousefabrics.co.uk/silver-lame-fabric45-wide-459-p. asp • Rope texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rope • Plastic mesh texture, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at https://pattayadaze.wordpress.com/2011/08/11/familiar-objects/ • Grey suede fabric, no date. [Digital Image]. Via Google Images. Available at http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Suede-Leather_109512062.html