BRIDGE BETWEEN THE PAST & THE FUTURE
Class 1 Master Contemporary Fashion Buying Anjini V.Dugal / Lisa Christine Arianto / Hwakyeong Rhee
INDEX I. VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS ABOUT THE BRAND / 01 CURRENT CUSTOMER ANALYSIS / 02 COMPETITORS / 03 ONLINE DISTRIBUTION ANALYSIS / 04 OFFLINE DISTRIBUTION ANALYSIS / 05 II. NEW PROPOSED STRATEGY OBJECTIVES / 05 NEW PROPOSED MOODBOARD / 06 NEW MARKET ANALYSIS /07 NEW PROPOSED TARGET MARKET /08 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT /09 PROPOSED DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS /10 PROPOSED DESIGNER COLLABORATION /11 PROPOSED ARTIST COLLABORATION /12 PROPOSED SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIES /13 PROPOSED SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS /14 CONCLUSION & FUTURE RECOMMENDATIONS BIBLIOGRAPHY
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VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
ABOUT THE BRAND Established in 1911,Valstar specialises in menswear raincoats and jackets in fabrics or leather worldwide. The products are 100% made in Italy, and reflect a strong Italian tradition with special attention to high quality fabrics and yarns along with specific care to detail and a contemporary fit.
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
Gen X & Post Boomers 35-55 Years old Marital Status: Married / Divorced / Single
 Income household: Upper middle to high Occupation: Executive, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator.
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CURRENT CUSTOMER
Behavioural Huge spending power, hours of leisure time, brand loyal. They have more discretionary income (wealth) than any other age group. Read newspapers more than any other age group. Post war affluence. Attracted to nostalgia.
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
COMPETITORS
Complete offer Flagship stores in Paris, London, Tokyo and Hong Kong. Also sold in more than 300 retailers around the world, including Mr Porter, Le Bon Marché, Matches, 10 Corso Como, The Webster, Opening Ceremony and more.
www.valstar.it
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AMI Founded in 2011, Ami offers a stylish and comprehensive wardrobe both casual and chic.
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
Salle PrivĂŠe Favouring a seasonless approach, aiming ultimate functional wardrobe. Focused on timeless and permanent range of iconic menswear essentials. Each piece combines quality materials with meticulous Italian craftsmanship Complete offer Flagship store in Amsterdam Distributed through Mr.Porter, own e-commerce, GRAANMARKT 13 (Antwerp), GOODS (Copenhagen)
www.valstar.it
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COMPETITORS
SWEDEN — Linnégatan No. 2 Lund & Lund
NORWAY — Gunnar Oye
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
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OFFLINE DISTRIBUTION Valstar is distributed globally through selected channels. Including important department stores as Bergdorf Goodman and Isetan.The distribution is mostly focused on European market, it is visible especially in Northern Europe as the brand’s core business is outerwear. Japan is the main market in Asia through big channel as United Arrows and Isetan, and it is also distributed in Korea through relatively small specialty stores.
www.valstar.it
UK — Drake’s Trunk Clothiers
UNITED STATES — Bergdorf Goodman No Man Walks Alone
MEXICO — The Silver Deer
ITALY — Base Blu Ratti Olimpic
JAPAN — Isetan United Arrows
GERMANY — Braun Lodenfrey
MR. PORTER https://www.mrporter.com
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
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ONLINE DISTRIBUTION Valstar is distributed through Etailers as Mr.Porter and No Man Walks Alone, including online store of offline multi-brand stores. The most trafficked e-tailer in the world Mr.Porter brings brand awareness to the customers with its selected styles.
www.valstar.it
NO MAN WALKS ALONE http://www.nomanwalksalone.com
NEW PROPOSED STRATEGIES
www.valstar.it
Adding New Distribution Channels
www.excelsiormilano.com
Owned E-commerce, Selected E-Retailers and offline distribution especially in Asia
New Online & Offline Customer Experiences
NEW PROPOSED TARGET MARKET
Create a special customer experiences that will be both beneficial for online (social media) and offline (pop up store).
Innovative Collaborations Innovative brand collaborations with emerging artists, designer, or other interesting platforms
OBJECTIVES Increasing product puchased and raising brand awareness
Engaging customers and increasing their satisfaction
www.excelsiormilano.com
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS
GENERATION Z (Potential target market)
Age demographics: Young adults who were born in 1995 or later. Also known as: Post milliners, iGeneration Key Characteristic Technology-dependent. This generation has been shaped by technology.They are living in a society in which constant connectivity and individual mobile devices are normal. Pluralist: "a person who believes that the existence of different types of people, beliefs and opinions within a society is a good thing". Gen-Z believes firmly in equality. Highly educated, technologically savvy, innovative and creative.To the extreme, they do not know the world without internet It is the first generation born into a digital world that lives online and virtually integrates and engages with its favourite brands.
MILLENNIALS (Potential target market)
Age demographics: Millennials are said to be born between 1980 - 2000. Also known as: Generation Me. Key Characteristic Digital natives: With product information, reviews and price comparisons at their fingertips, Millennials are turning to brands that can offer maximum convenience at the lowest cost. Instant gratification: They are used to instant access to price comparisons, product information and peer reviews.They don’t like to wait and they want what they want. Well-educated, digitally engaged, more openminded, and more supportive of gay rights and equal rights for minorities. Other positives adjectives to describe them include confident, self-expressive, liberal, upbeat and receptive to new ideas and ways of living.
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS Increased Spending Across all industries, men's spending has increased significantly over the last few years, and there has been a noticeable rise in home appliances.
Brandless Brand names don't mean much to young male consumers. Quality, convenience and value trump the status of a named brand.
Personalised products Custom and personalised apparel services also represent a great opportunity to reach the market. Male shoppers are interested in new start-ups that democratising the tailoring experience, allowing the average man increased access to custom fit shirts, suits and other apparel with more accessible price points.
Basic-stylish functional wardrobe Especially in non-metropolitan areas, males require a more professional wardrobe and may even feel alienated by streetwear culture. Retailers attempting to reach these men should avoid trying to capture the hype of streetwear while offering basics stylish enough to appeal to this newly fashion-conscious cohort.
NEW STRATEGIES
GENERATION NEXT 18 - 40 years old Marital Status: Single / Married Income household: Upper middle to high Occupation:Financial, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator. Behavioral Modern innovators, passionate about brand engagement, tend to purchase based on emotion factor, creative vision, sometimes trendsetters, risk takers, seeks high quality & exclusive products. They are in tune with cultural events and happenings, dresses in a subtle but directional way, making them recognisable for their style.
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PROPOSED TARGET MARKET
NEW STRATEGIES
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STYLING SUGGESTIONS
NEW STRATEGIES
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STYLING SUGGESTIONS
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The new proposed collection is a range of functional yet stylish garments for the contemporary man.With increasing consciousness on sustainability, detachable linings and reversible detailing add a second life to the garments by providing two styles in one. Further, camouflage print along with quilted bombers with contrasting linings in bright orange are aimed at those willing to take risks.
C1 www.valstar.it
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C3
C4
C5
C6 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MOODBOARD
PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PRINTS Patterns inspired by marble, geology and mossy undergrowth are seen in textured prints. Lava, craters and stalagmites,the basis of ashy palette of mineral tones and a variety of glazed and metallic effects. Appear to be grown from nature spark intrigue and have an element of fantasy about them. Popular camouflage evolves with a more elevated, design-led approach that is still rooted in nature
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PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT VALSTARINO JACKET: Fabric: Leather Suede Shape: Loose Slightly Oversized Details: Jacket on Jacket Detachable Lining Details
21 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BOMBER JACKET: Fabric: Coated Leather Nylon Satin Goose Padding Shape & Details: Boxy Oversized Cuff Details Contrast colour lining
22 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TRUCKER JACKET: Fabric: Denim Merino wool Virgin wool Shape & Details: Structured Slightly oversized Patch Work Margiela denim collar
23 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT RAIN COAT FABRIC: Cotton Twill Laminated cool wool Polyester+Polyurethane Cupro lining Shape & Details: Structured Raglan Sleeve Marble print - Reversible Contrast colour detachable lining Detachable hoodie
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PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
www.valstar.it
NEW STRATEGIES
E-COMMERCE
 CHANNEL
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Interesting and engaging editorial content on the homepage Diverse products selection featuring wide range of prices Higher credibility by having well-known online stores Ecommerce is an ideal way for Valstar to take the brand from a traditional brick and mortar store to an innovative, well loved brand.
www.valstar.it
SHOP NOW
NEW STRATEGIES
MULTI-BRANDS / DEPARTMENTS / SPECIALISED STORES SWEDEN — Linnégatan No. 2 Lund & Lund
UK — Drake’s Trunk Clothiers
UNITED STATES — Bergdorf Goodman No Man Walks Alone
MEXICO — The Silver Deer
ITALY — Base Blu Ratti Olimpic
NORWAY — Gunnar Oye
RUSSIA
SINGAPORE CHINA
GERMANY — Braun Lodenfrey
INDONESIA
KOREA JAPAN — Isetan United Arrows
ASIA
WORKSOUT, SEOUL KOREA
BEAKER, SEOUL KOREA
IDEA BY SOSU, TOKYO JAPAN
WORKSOUT is a multi-brand store aimed at contemporary street culture. It has brought highend streetwear to Korean market for over 10 years. Located in prestigious Apgujeong area, it is leading the trend. The targeted customers are the men who seek ‘Girls over food, Life over money’.
“Upcycling Culture Laboratory where fashion, culture and life style coexist’ it Beaker’s moto. The flagship stores located in prestigious Cheongdam and Hannam area are built with waste building materials. Brand assortment ranges from well-known designers abroad to new Korean designers targeted young male customers with style yet classic.
Based on three distinct concepts - idea, independence and initiation, idea by Sosu offers a carefully curated mix of vintage and upcoming designers. The relaxed boutique provides a welcoming, laid-back atmosphere, a stark contrast to the bustling Omotesando Hills shopping complex where the store is located
CENTRAL DEPARTMENT STORES, JAKARTA INDONESIA
ROBINSON THE HEEREN, SINGAPORE
COMME DES GARCONS, SEOUL SOUTH KOREA
Central has been synonymous with offering the complete shopping experience with luxury and quality. Showcasing the world’s top brands, this 4 floor, 20,000 m² flagship store represents Asia’s vibrant and modern culture and lifestyle.Central Department Store Indonesia will cater to the wants and needs of customers, offering luxury products and services that have been carefully selected from around the world
Luxury & contemporary department stores located in the heart of Singapore. Beyond just shopping, Robinsons stores offer experiences previously unimaginable in retail. Personalised beauty services in private suites, personal shopping expertise in VIP lounges for all our customers, and lifestyle innovations that include gourmet food, fashion and curated home collections.
Relaunched in 04.2017, it has become multi-brand store. Rei Kawakubo redefined the flagship store with new concept, with the help of Adrian Joffe, the CEO of Dover Street Market. Selected brands are Nike Lab, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Stussy and Palace, which could bring fresh and young image to the store.
EUROPE & AMERICA
STASHED, SAN FRANCISCO
MAGASIN, CALIFORNIA
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE AT BROOKFIELD PLACE, NY
Stashed s a San Francisco mens fashion boutique specializing in progressive upscale brands.The space is “designed to deliver an elevated retail experience emphasizing cultural history, museum-quality curation, and world-class customer service to a consumer base that is hungry for product and storytelling
Magasin offers an exclusive selection of relaxed, tailored clothing from primarily Italian and Japanese designers, as well as limited-edition pieces and collaborations. The men they admire look equal parts polished and natural. They have a concept where building a wardrobe is a lifelong activity that shouldn’t be taken too seriously, yet is of great importance.
Saks Fifth Avenue has unveiled its third New York store, the first dedicated entirely to men. It aims to cater to every aspect of men’s lifestyle. The store will host a rotating mix of designer collaborations and exclusive collections, while other new features include private styling rooms, a coffee shop, barber salon and a leather spa for shoe repairs.
ANDREAS MURKUDIS, BERLIN GERMANY
BROWNS EAST, LONDON
ONE BLOCK DOWN, MILANO
In Andreas Murkudis’s spacious Berlin boutique, a lucid atmosphere offers the perfect backdrop to a personal and exclusive selection of products, from fashion to fine glassware. The boutique never fails to surprise with its unusual mix and presentation, earning a place as a Farfetch 2013 SUPERSTORE nominee.
Browns has become one of the best known and most respected multi brand store in the UK. The store has branched out and opened a new space in a converted East London printing factory. The new store features an enviable brand lists and updated brand selection.T he space features an art gallery, a rotating cafe and an “Immersive Experience Room,” which allows visitors to check in for a meditation session.
Founded in 2009, ONE BLOCK DOWN is one of the best sneaker and streetwear stores in Milan. Located next to Piazza del Duomo, it has established itself with a unique and unconventional identity, which bases its roots in subcultures such as hip hop, skateboarding and the young culture of the 1990s through its selection of shoes, clothing, accessories, and also magazines and art. Recently did pop-up store with Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini & Superga
BRAND AMBASSADOR
PARK SEOJOON
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NAM JOOHYUK
Park Seojoon (박서준) Born: 1988 Instagram: bn_sj2013 (5 million followers) Leading actor of young generation Recently gained more affection from the public thanks to featured in ‘Yoon Restaurant 2 (윤식당 시즌2) New K-star around Asia (had asian tour in 2017) Famous for his personal style
Nam Joohyuk (남주혁) born: 1994 Instagram: skawngur (9.4 million followers) Debuted as a model, Considered as a super rookie in the industry with great filmography
www.valstar.it
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NEW STRATEGIES
Embracing Diversity
Casting More Diverse Models. Presentation on the e-commerce, advertising and selecting influencers need to be more diverse. Considering more colour models coming from all over races and nation. Diverse Landscape of Masculinity. There’s a new standard of beauty: it’s eclectic, offbeat and individualistic. The lean towards diversity does not end with race – More than half of Gen Z’s population say it is pushing the boundaries of what it means to be masculine and feminine.
www.valstar.it
NEW STRATEGIES
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MODEL
 SUGGESTIONS
Kohei Takabatake
Wilson Oryema
Tae Eun Bang
Tristan Cole
Japanese model, born in 97 who walked the most shows this year.
23-year-old London-born model and artist.
With over 90k Instagram followers, Korea's Tae Eun Bang is gaining a global audience.
With 2.5k Instagram followers,Tristan Cole is a new emerging model
www.valstar.it
NEW STRATEGIES
COLLABORATION WITH EMERGING DESIGNER 32
KOZABURO Finalist of LVMH Prize 2017 edition. Winner of VFiles Runway S/S 16. Originally from Japan, studied fashion design in CSM London and Parsons NY, worked in Thom Browne, his academic and professional background prevails in consideration of quality of garments, fits and finishing. Timeless design of high fashion meets street culture contemporary style would bring Valstar to meet Generation Next.
www.valstar.it
NEW STRATEGIES
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COLLABORATION WITH EMERGING DESIGNER
www.valstar.it
THE - SIRIUS Started in 2015, based in Seoul, Korea and focusing on European-market as a new designer currently receiving the most attention in the fashion industry. Through the brand principle of "New future, visionary", desire to include modern image, luxurious refined sense. The brand displays collections that stand out the polished beauty of practicality with constructive details completed through architectural interpretation.
NEW STRATEGIES
COLLABORATION WITH EMERGING DESIGNER 34
THE OLDERBROTHER One of the brands selected in “The Next Green Talent”, the scouting project by Vogue Italia and Yoox themed ‘sustainability’ which will be held on 22 Feb during Milano Fashion Week. Olderbrother is fusing the natural processes with playful spirits to create contemporary classics. It is the intermix between the men/women, play/sophistication and contemporary/nature-based design. Its eco-respectful textile includes organic cottons, unique blends of wool and woven rice paper, and coffee or hibiscus dying - like the slow food movement, authentic and delicious. Collaboration with Olderbrother would spark a conversation, share a smile and add a note to the harmonious future within Generation Next.
www.valstar.it
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NEW STRATEGIES
COLLABORATION WITH EMERGING DESIGNER MARTIN ASBJØRN Danish designer which has collection in Copenhagen Fashion week, its aesthetic is luxurious and understated, focusing on craftsmanship, simple details and quality materials. Replacing the idea of confining traditional tailoring with more free-flowing, contemporary silhouettes, the collections are simple and elegant. The brand combines the idea of modern tailoring with relaxed leisurewear to create pieces for the everyday wardrobe of the modern man.
www.valstar.it
NEW STRATEGIES
Artists Collaboration
Beatriz Milhazes Beatriz Milhazes is well-known for her vibrantly colourful and kaleidoscopic artworks often inspired by both European and Brazilian culture.Collaboration with her energetic visual cadences and explosions of colours would bring dynamic to Valstar.
Maximo Javier
www.valstar.it
Beatriz Milhazes
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Maximino Javier Maximino Javier is rapidly receiving worldwide recognition with his unmistakable iconography. Collaboration with his fantasy oriented and whimsical style would intrigue Generation Next.
NEW STRATEGIES
Pop Up Store VALSTAR POP UP STORE X Ryoji Ikeda Ryoji Ikeda is a Japanese sound artist who lives and works in Paris. Ikeda's music is concerned primarily with sound in a variety of "raw" states, such as sine tones and noise, often using frequencies at the edges of the range of human hearing. Rhythmically, Ikeda's music is highly imaginative, exploiting beat patterns and, at times, using a variety of discrete tones and noise to create the semblance of a drum machine. His work also encroaches on the world of ambient music; many tracks on his albums are concerned with slowly evolving soundscapes, with little or no sense of pulse.
NEW STRATEGIES
VALSTAR VSCO CONSCIENTIOUS TRAVEL BY VALSTAR
Telling Valstar brand stories trough series of authentic travel photography journal with a specific theme “Conscientious Travel”. By creating a special featured journal as a platform for content creators to collaborate and get inspired through the photography series. Content creators are able to experiment with their lens, or even created their own mini documentary film related with Valstar.
www.valstar.it
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“Conscientious Travel”
INSTAGRAM STORIES
YOUTUBE
YEAY
BLURR
NEW STRATEGIES
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Increasing Social Media Presence
www.valstar.it
Current young adults favour brand authenticity, and numbers of new apps: Sarahah, YEAY, Blurr, could be a good entry point for brands to get honest with young consumers through special campaigns. Live video features and apps could help broadcasting dynamic video content that's raw, authentic and exclusive.
Over 200 million people use Instagram Stories. Survey found that currently people tend to open their Instagram Stories first, then scroll to see the posts. Instagram stories are discoverable, which means that people who don’t follow you can see your posts too
Generation Z can’t live without YouTube.Survey found that YouTube is a regular part of their media diet, with 95% turning to it.The majority of Gen Zers are cool with almost any type of celebrity branded content, but they prefer when it’s disclosed.
Germany based start-up aims to tap into the entrepreneurial spirt of Gen Z.The free platform allows users to make quick Snapchat-style video stories to sell their own products including sneakers, clothing and more.
Blurr creates shared albums of collective experiences.Blurr is all about the shared experience of people who are in the same place, at the same time.Unlike Instagram and Snapchat, there are no profiles, likes, comments or filters.
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NEW STRATEGIES
Social Media Looks Instagram and Snapchat are especially near and dear to Generation Z's hearts because of their more authentic content. Generation Z and millennials will value a memorable moment over a material object. Hence, Valstar’s social media needs to show more behind the scenes content, telling a stories through specific interactive photography & video content and less focus on posting product items.
www.valstar.it
zolloc portrait 01 - collaboration w/ @jamesmacari . @imglens
NEW STRATEGIES
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MICRO INFLUENCERS
@isaaclikes_ Isaac Hindin Miller 42k followers DJ
www.valstar.it
@marquelleturner Marquelle Turner 14.1k followers Buyer in Middle East
@silviutolu Silviu Tolu 20.2k followers Model
NEW STRATEGIES
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MICRO INFLUENCERS
@frederik_la Frederik Lenz Andersen 39.5k followers Senior Fashion Director in Euroman Magazine, Denmark
www.valstar.it
@ducdubois Salomon DuBois Thiombiano 109k followers Stylist / GQ Insider / Buyer
@Garconjon Jonathan Daniel Pryce 85.7k followers Photographer
VALSTAR
CONCLUSIONS & FUTURE RECOMMENDATIONS Valstar has established itself as one of the most notable producers of the A1 jacket, utilising more than 100 years
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of experience in exquisite design and craft. However, fashion changes: customers evolve from time to time. To be considered innovative, brands must regularly have something fresh for consumers to talk about and able to addresses consumer needs. With the vast availability of digital platform, most consumers start their path to research for products online and complete it in a brick-and-mortar stores. In Valstar’s case, innovative strategies are needed to bring new excitement for the brand, creating a seamless & unforgettable customer journey. By suggesting improvements and ideas above, Valstar is expected to achieve higher numbers of audiences and conversion rate, as well as to increase their brand engagement.
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR: BRIDGE BETWEEN PAST & FUTURE
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Nomanwalksalone.com. (2018). No Man Walks Alone | No Man Walks Alone. [online] Available at: h:p:// www.nomanwalksalone.com/ [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018].
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