Product Development For The Brand Valstar

Page 1

Brand Managing and Product Development Master Contemporary Fashion Buying 17-18 Class 1 Tutor: Alessandra Spessa Exam Date: 14.03.2018 Anjini.V.Dugal [036152] , Lisa Christine Arianto [035479], Hwakyeong Rhee [037895]


BRIDGE BETWEEEN PAST & FUTURE

VALSTAR SEASONLESS CAPSULE COLLECTION

Class 1 Master Contemporary Fashion Buying Anjini V.Dugal / Lisa Christine Arianto / Hwakyeong Rhee


INDEX 1. INTRODUCTION 2. BRAND ANALYSIS 2.1 Target Customer 2.2 Competitors 2.3 Product Offer 3. RESEARCH 3.1 Potential Target Customer 3.2 Global Trends 3.3 Fashion Trends 4. DESIGN PHASE 4.1 Proposal of the concept for a capsule collection 4.1.1 Proposed Target 4.2 Range plan 4.3 Moodboard 4.4 colour chart 4.5 material chart 4.6 trimming chart (decoration, embroideries, application…) 4.7 product range with colour variants 4.8 Technical sheets 5. REFERENCES 6. APPENDIX


VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

INTRODUCTION The following presenta1on highlights the product development for a season-less collec1on for the brand Valstar. The iconic products Valstarino and raincoat are further developed while new silhoue;es as trucker jacket and quilted bombers are proposed.


01 BRAND ANALYSIS


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VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

ABOUT THE BRAND Established in 1911,Valstar specialises in menswear raincoats and jackets in fabrics or leather worldwide. The products are 100% made in Italy, and reflect a strong Italian tradition with special attention to high quality fabrics and yarns along with specific care to detail and a contemporary fit.

www.valstar.it


BRAND MOODBOARD

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VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

www.valstar.it


VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

Gen X & Post Boomers 35-55 Years old Marital Status: Married / Divorced / Single
 Income household: Upper middle to high Occupa?on: Execu:ve, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator.

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CURRENT CUSTOMER

Behavioural Huge spending power, hours of leisure :me, brand loyal. They have more discre:onary income (wealth) than any other age group. Read newspapers more than any other age group. Post war affluence. AMracted to nostalgia.

www.valstar.it


VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

PRODUCT ANALYSIS SUMMARY SS

FW

PIECES

NUMBER OF FABRICS

NUMBER OF LEATHER TYPES

COLOURS

PIECES

NUMBER OF FABRICS

NUMBER OF LEATHER TYPES

COLOURS

VALSTARINO

13

7

2

11

5

2

2

5

RAINCOAT

6

5

6

3

3

BOMBER

4

3

2

4

1

1

1

1

TRUCKER JACKET

1

1

1

1

2

1

1

2

9

PRODUCT CATEGORY

3

More detailed product analysis refers to appendix 1

www.valstar.it


PRIVATE WHITE VC

VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS

MAKINTOSH

COMPETITORS

CARUSO

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Valstar competes in a highly vola:le market in which compe:tors are con:nuously evolving and innova:ng in order to meet the growing needs and expecta:ons of the customers. While brands such as Brunello Cucinelli con:nue to be compe:tors for high quality fabrics and leather, other brands like Herno and Mackintosh with their highly func:onal and innova:ve garments increase compe::on for the brand.

SEALUP

PRIVATE WHITE V.C. Slim-Fit Bomber Jacket €445

MACKINTOSH Dunoon Bonded-Cotton Raincoat €1,075

ASPESI HERNO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI STILE LATINO

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Suede Bomber Jacket €3,690

ASPESI Washed-Cotton Jacket €340

More detailed compe?tor nalysis refers to appendix 2

www.valstar.it


02 RESEARCH Target Market Global Trend Fashion Trend


THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS

GENERATION Z (Potential target market)

Age demographics: Young adults who were born in 1995 or later. Also known as: Post milliners, iGeneration Key Characteristic Technology-dependent. This generation has been shaped by technology.They are living in a society in which constant connectivity and individual mobile devices are normal. Pluralist: "a person who believes that the existence of different types of people, beliefs and opinions within a society is a good thing". Gen-Z believes firmly in equality. Highly educated, technologically savvy, innovative and creative.To the extreme, they do not know the world without internet It is the first generation born into a digital world that lives online and virtually integrates and engages with its favourite brands. (WGSN, 2016).


MILLENNIALS (Potential target market)

Age demographics: Millennials are said to be born between 1980 - 2000. Also known as: Generation Me. Key Characteristic Digital natives: With product information, reviews and price comparisons at their fingertips, Millennials are turning to brands that can offer maximum convenience at the lowest cost. Instant gratification: They are used to instant access to price comparisons, product information and peer reviews.They don’t like to wait and they want what they want. Well-educated, digitally engaged, more openminded, and more supportive of gay rights and equal rights for minorities. Other positives adjectives to describe them include confident, self-expressive, liberal, upbeat and receptive to new ideas and ways of living. (Chiquoine, 2018

THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS


THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS Increased Spending Across all industries, men's spending has increased significantly over the last few years, and there has been a noticeable rise in home appliances.

Brandless Brand names don't mean much to young male consumers. Quality, convenience and value trump the status of a named brand.

Personalised products Custom and personalised apparel services also represent a great opportunity to reach the market. Male shoppers are interested in new start-ups that democratising the tailoring experience, allowing the average man increased access to custom fit shirts, suits and other apparel with more accessible price points.

Basic-stylish functional wardrobe Especially in non-metropolitan areas, males require a more professional wardrobe and may even feel alienated by streetwear culture. Retailers attempting to reach these men should avoid trying to capture the hype of streetwear while offering basics stylish enough to appeal to this newly fashion-conscious cohort.


?

All global trends from food to travel to retail revolve around the idea of sustainability and technological innovation. With the evolving power of social media leading to a rise in "clicktivism” brands are being forced to be more aware and conscious about their practices. Further, in the near future with the introduction of 5G a soaring increase in m-commerce is anticipated (Bell, 2018).

www.valstar.it

GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH


VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH

TRAVEL General Idea: The travel experience is evolving rapidly, all touch points of the industry are being retuned to meet rapidly growing as well as shifting consumer expectations and digital capabilities. Beyond the simple idea of traveling for leisure, tourism is being driven by a desire to learn or to give back to communities. Personalised experiences, virtual reality are some key things to look out for. While Aviation industry innovators are already introducing digital bag tags and entirely paperless travel experiences (WGSN, 2015).

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TRAVEL RETAIL

Shifting demographics While Millennials dominated the consumer conversation in 2016, the years ahead bring a subtle shift as demographics diverge and multi-generational groups and solo travelers start to demand attention.

VIRTUAL TRAVEL

TRAVEL RETAIL

Shoppable hospitality gains ground as retail hotels start opening in greater numbers and the gift shop enjoys a modern makeover. Digital travel networks amp up, while physical experiences continue to drive service launches – from Airbnb's Trips to nextlevel foodie travel (Wgsn, 2016) Conscientious Travel more travel brands developing offerings that have sustainability at their core, as well as fundamentally changing their approach to energy and its consumption (WGSN, 2017). Travel retail is spreading beyond the traditional duty-free to emerging downtown stores, particularly in Asia. This is not only with respect to retail but brands will need to look at how they can create the travel experience before the customer leaves their home (WGSN, 2017).

SOLO TRAVEL

SEAMLESS CONNECTIVITY

www.valstar.it


FOOD 17

VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH

www.valstar.it

General Idea: The travel experience is evolving rapidly, all touch points of the industry are being retuned to meet rapidly growing as well as shifting consumer expectations and digital capabilities. Beyond the simple idea of traveling for leisure, tourism is being driven by a desire to learn or to give back to communities. Personalised experiences, virtual reality are some key things to look out for. While Aviation industry innovators are already introducing digital bag tags and entirely paperless travel experiences (WGSN, 2015).

Shoppable hospitality gains ground as retail hotels start opening in greater numbers and the gift shop enjoys a modern makeover. Digital travel networks amp up, while physical experiences continue to drive service launches – from Airbnb's Trips to next-level foodie travel (Wgsn, 2016)

Shifting demographics While Millennials dominated the consumer conversation in 2016, the years ahead bring a subtle shift as demographics diverge and multigenerational groups and solo travelers start to demand attention.

Travel retail is spreading beyond the traditional duty-free to emerging downtown stores, particularly in Asia. This is not only with respect to retail but brands will need to look at how they can create the travel experience before the customer leaves their home (WGSN, 2017).

Conscientious Travel more travel brands developing offerings that have sustainability at their core, as well as fundamentally changing their approach to energy and its consumption (WGSN, 2017).


VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH

SUSTAINABILITY Increasing consciousness A January 2017 international study by Unilever found that 33% of consumers actively engage with brands that are known to be socially and environmentally responsible. With the evolving power of social media leading to a rise in "clicktivism", this number is growing rapidly.

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General Idea: From Millennial-raised Alphas to pro-active Gen X and Boomers, consumer expectations are increasingly demanding more & more brand responsibility.

Driving force Millennials leading the charge (according to Cone, 85% of US Millennials claim to buy responsible products wherever possible), as they combine a passionately-shared social consciousness with active spending power. However, the trend is proving crossgenerational, gaining traction with Gen Z, Gen X, and Boomers Gen z pop culture influence grown up in a digital-first social ecosystem and are increasingly shifting towards eating sustainably with Gen Z celebrities and influencers like Ariana Grande and Noah Cyrus setting meat- and cruelty-free agendas, supported by popular food networks like Teen Vegan Network, and YouTubers and bloggers like Tess Begg and Nina Gabriela further emphasizing the idea. Making this generation actively conscious about transparency with food labeling and ingredients, due to a deep understanding of healthy eating (Baizley, 2018).

www.valstar.it


?

With silhouettes becoming more and more oversized and genderless, inclined towards a more utilitarian nature with big logos or wordings for the Instagram frenzy a wide variety of contrasting trends could be noted across the seasons. A clear vision of brands giving more and more importance to sustainability and the technicality of fabrics and garments could be seen. An astonishing amount of reversible, removable, tech fabrics could be seen across collections as well as on the runways.

www.valstar.it

FASHION TREND RESEARCH.


VALSTAR RUNWAY INSPIRATION

NEIL BARRET FW18

EFM FW 18

NEIL BARRET SS18

Fendi FW 18

Haider Ackermann FW 18

Berlutti FW 18

Prada FW 18

Hermes SS 18

Valentino FW 18

Ermenegildo Zegna SS 18

Sacai FW 18

Hermes SS 18

Versace FW 18

20

Louis Vuitton FW 18

Junya Watanabe SS 18

www.valstar.it


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

21

SHAPES

www.valstar.it


COLOUR TREND

22

VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

www.valstar.it


TRIMMINGS

23

VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

www.valstar.it


03 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Proposal of the concept for a capsule collection Proposed Target Range plan Moodboard colour chart material chart trimming chart (decoration, embroideries, application‌) product range with colour variants Technical sheets


www.excelsiormilano.com

VALSTAR NEW PROPOSED MOODBOARD


NEW STRATEGIES

GENERATION NEXT 18 - 40 years old Marital Status: Single / Married Income household: Upper middle to high Occupation:Financial, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator. Behavioral Modern innovators, passionate about brand engagement, tend to purchase based on emotion factor, creative vision, sometimes trendsetters, risk takers, seeks high quality & exclusive products. They are in tune with cultural events and happenings, dresses in a subtle but directional way, making them recognisable for their style.

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PROPOSED TARGET MARKET


27

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VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

SEASONLESS CAPSULE COLLECTION MOODBOARD

The new proposed collec1on is a range of func1onal yet stylish garments for the contemporary man. With increasing consciousness on sustainability, detachable linings and reversible detailing add a second life to the garments by providing two styles in one. Further, camouage prints along with quilted bombers with contras1ng linings in bright orange are for those willing to take risks.


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PRINTS Patterns inspired by marble, geology and mossy undergrowth are seen in textured prints. Lava, craters and stalagmites,the basis of ashy palette of mineral tones and a variety of glazed and metallic effects. Appear to be grown from nature spark intrigue and have an element of fantasy about them. Popular camouflage evolves with a more elevated, design-led approach that is still rooted in nature


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

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COLOUR CHART

C1

19-5320 TCX

C2

16-5106 TCX C3

13-1014 TCX C4

16-1385 TCX

C5 18-0306 TCX

C6 19-0230 TCX

www.valstar.it


30

PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT VALSTARINO JACKET: Fabric: Leather Suede Shape: Loose Slightly Oversized Details: Jacket on Jacket Detachable Lining Details


31 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BOMBER JACKET: Fabric: Polyamide Goose Padding Shape & Details: Boxy Oversized Cuff Details Contrast colour lining


32 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TRUCKER JACKET: Fabric: Denim Merino wool Virgin wool Shape & Details: Structured Slightly oversized Patch Work Margiela denim collar


33 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT RAIN COAT FABRIC: Cotton Twill Polyester+Polyurethane Cupro lining Shape & Details: Structured Raglan Sleeve Marble print - Reversible Contrast colour detachable lining Detachable hoodie


VALSTAR COLLECTION PLAN No

Tyoe of Product

Product Images

V1

1

V2

1

Valstarino

B1

2

Total

B2

B3

2

Bomber Jacket

COLLECTION PLAN

TJ1

3

TJ3

3

Trucker Jacket

RC1

4

TJ2

34

VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

RC2

2

Rain Coat

TOTAL

8


35

PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

LOOK 1

www.valstar.it

LOOK 2

LOOK 3

LOOK 4

LOOK 5

LOOK 6

LOOK 7

LOOK 8


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

SHAPE SILHOUETTE


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

FABRIC CHART COLOUR:

F1

F2

POLYAMIDE

COTTON TWILL

F4

C5

MERINO WOOL

COLOUR:

COLOUR:

C3

C4

C1

F5

CUPRO LINING

DENIM

C1

C5

C4

COLOUR:

COLOUR:

F_003

C1

37

COLOUR:

F6

POLYESTER + POLYURETHANE

C5

www.valstar.it


VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

LEATHER CHART

PRINT CHART COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT

C1 L1

LEATHER SUEDE

C1

C6

P1

C5

C3

MARBLE PRINT 1

38

COLOUR:

COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT COLOUR:

C2 L2

NAPPA LEATHER

C5

P2

C5

C6

MARBLE PRINT 2

www.valstar.it


a

a

Marble print

100% Horn (Buffalo) Button

C5 VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Double side leather zipper

a

C5

C1

C3

C6

39

TRIMMINGS, ACCESSORIES & DECORATION

C5

Taped Zipper

C2

C5

a

Snap buttons

Metal button for denim www.valstar.it


04 TECHNICAL CHART


TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

Detachable shearling collar

REFERENCES

Pocket detail

Jacket on Jacket Detachable vest

41

Product Code : VAL_0012 Model : Valstarino Season : Seasonless

FABRICS

L1

LEATHER SUEDE

C1 Shearling

Cuff (Ribs) F1

Notes: Valstarino with detachable shearling collar

NYLON SATIN

C5


TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0110 Model : Bomber Jacket Season : Seasonless

TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

REFERENCES Contrast colour lining

Pocket details

42

double side zipper details

FABRICS

F1

NYLON SATIN

C5

CUPRO LINING

C4

LININGS

Notes: Bomber jacket with contrast colour lining

F

5


TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

Tape zipper

REFERENCES

High neck collar

43

Product Code : VAL_0022 Model : Bomber Jacket Season : Seasonless

FABRICS

Prints F1

POLYAMIDE

C5

LININGS P1

LAMNINATED WOOL - MARBLE

COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT

Notes: Reversible bomber jacket with marble print

F5

CUPRO LINING

C4 C1

C5

C3


TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0015 Model : Trucker Jacket Season : Seasonless

TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

Patchwork

REFERENCES

Metal Button

F4

Notes: Trucker jacket with wool patchwork

44

FABRICS

MERINO WOOL

F4

VIRGIN WOOL

F4

VIRGIN WOOL

C1

C1

C4


TECHNICAL SHEET REFERENCES

Yoke Pannel

TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

Metal Button

45

Product Code : VAL_0019 Model : Trucker Jacket Season : Seasonless

FABRICS

Notes: Denim Jacket with patchwork on the shoulder

F4

MERINO WOOL

C1

F3

DENIM

C7


TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0220 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless

TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

REFERENCES

a

Reversible Detail

Horn button

46

FABRICS: SIDE 1 COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT

C1

P1

LAMNINATED WOOL - MARBLE

SIDE 1

F2

Notes: Reversible Raincoat with marble print

COTTON TWILL

C1

C5

C3


TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

Detachable lining

REFERENCES

Double side zipper

47

Product Code : VAL_0220 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless

FABRICS

F2

COTTON TWILL

C3

CUPRO LINING

C4

LINING FABRIC

Notes: Detachable rain coat

F5


TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS

REFERENCES

48

Product Code : VAL_0210 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless

Hidden opening

Tape Zipper

FABRICS

Notes: Raincoat with contrast colour lining

F6

POLYESTER + POLYURETHANE

C5


REFERENCES Anon (2015). La Valstar in chiusura: vestì i vip del mondo - Cronaca - Gazzetta di Mantova. [online] Gazzetta di Mantova. Available at: http://gazzettadimantova.gelocal.it/mantova/cronaca/2015/05/31/ news/la-valstar-in-chiusura-vesti-i-vip-del-mondo-1.11529995 [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Anon (2018). valstar. [online] Valstar.it. Available at: http://www.valstar.it/en/ [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Baizley, D. (2018). Sustainability and the Consumer 2018. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76724/page/1 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2018]. Barnes, O. (2018). Trims & Embellishments Forecast A/W 19/20. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77607/page/1 [Accessed 9 Mar. 2018]. Bell, A. (2018). Future Consumer 2020. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77141/page/29 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Blankson, A. (2017). Sustainable Food: A Meatless Future. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74546/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Chiquoine, J. (2018). Millennial Male Shoppers: Retail Strategies. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76796/page/1 [Accessed 12 Feb. 2018]. NoManWalksAlone (2018). No Man Walks Alone. [online] Nomanwalksalone.com. Available at: http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/144/ [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Owen, S. and Jiwrajka, A. (2017). Brand Activation Trends: Food. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74991/page/2 [Accessed 14 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Free Style. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76830/page/1 [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Purpose Full. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76831/page/1 [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Light Magic. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76832/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Radin, S. (2017). Eating Out, Speaking Up: Food Activism. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75734/page/8 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. TheRakeMagazine (2018). The Rake magazine. [online] The Rake. Available at: https://therake.com/brands/valstar.html [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2015). The Future of Travel. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57210/page/6 [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2016). Marketing to Generation Z. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/67056/page/1 [Accessed 15 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2017). Conscientious Travel: New Values and Responsibilities. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76487/page/1 [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2017). Travel Hubs: New Retail Innovations. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/73666/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Ethical Food: The Responsible Home Cook. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77044/page/4 [Accessed 4 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: Common Ground. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72944/page/1 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: Creative Manifesto. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72846/page/1 [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: In Touch. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72845/page/1 [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018]. Wgsn.com. (2016). Global Travel Trends 2017. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/69778/page/9 [Accessed 2 Feb. 2018].


1.2 Competitor Analysis


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