Brand Managing and Product Development Master Contemporary Fashion Buying 17-18 Class 1 Tutor: Alessandra Spessa Exam Date: 14.03.2018 Anjini.V.Dugal [036152] , Lisa Christine Arianto [035479], Hwakyeong Rhee [037895]
BRIDGE BETWEEEN PAST & FUTURE
VALSTAR SEASONLESS CAPSULE COLLECTION
Class 1 Master Contemporary Fashion Buying Anjini V.Dugal / Lisa Christine Arianto / Hwakyeong Rhee
INDEX 1. INTRODUCTION 2. BRAND ANALYSIS 2.1 Target Customer 2.2 Competitors 2.3 Product Offer 3. RESEARCH 3.1 Potential Target Customer 3.2 Global Trends 3.3 Fashion Trends 4. DESIGN PHASE 4.1 Proposal of the concept for a capsule collection 4.1.1 Proposed Target 4.2 Range plan 4.3 Moodboard 4.4 colour chart 4.5 material chart 4.6 trimming chart (decoration, embroideries, application…) 4.7 product range with colour variants 4.8 Technical sheets 5. REFERENCES 6. APPENDIX
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
INTRODUCTION The following presenta1on highlights the product development for a season-less collec1on for the brand Valstar. The iconic products Valstarino and raincoat are further developed while new silhoue;es as trucker jacket and quilted bombers are proposed.
01 BRAND ANALYSIS
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VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
ABOUT THE BRAND Established in 1911,Valstar specialises in menswear raincoats and jackets in fabrics or leather worldwide. The products are 100% made in Italy, and reflect a strong Italian tradition with special attention to high quality fabrics and yarns along with specific care to detail and a contemporary fit.
www.valstar.it
BRAND MOODBOARD
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VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
Gen X & Post Boomers 35-55 Years old Marital Status: Married / Divorced / Single Income household: Upper middle to high Occupa?on: Execu:ve, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator.
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CURRENT CUSTOMER
Behavioural Huge spending power, hours of leisure :me, brand loyal. They have more discre:onary income (wealth) than any other age group. Read newspapers more than any other age group. Post war affluence. AMracted to nostalgia.
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
PRODUCT ANALYSIS SUMMARY SS
FW
PIECES
NUMBER OF FABRICS
NUMBER OF LEATHER TYPES
COLOURS
PIECES
NUMBER OF FABRICS
NUMBER OF LEATHER TYPES
COLOURS
VALSTARINO
13
7
2
11
5
2
2
5
RAINCOAT
6
5
6
3
3
BOMBER
4
3
2
4
1
1
1
1
TRUCKER JACKET
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
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PRODUCT CATEGORY
3
More detailed product analysis refers to appendix 1
www.valstar.it
PRIVATE WHITE VC
VALSTAR BRAND ANALYSIS
MAKINTOSH
COMPETITORS
CARUSO
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Valstar competes in a highly vola:le market in which compe:tors are con:nuously evolving and innova:ng in order to meet the growing needs and expecta:ons of the customers. While brands such as Brunello Cucinelli con:nue to be compe:tors for high quality fabrics and leather, other brands like Herno and Mackintosh with their highly func:onal and innova:ve garments increase compe::on for the brand.
SEALUP
PRIVATE WHITE V.C. Slim-Fit Bomber Jacket €445
MACKINTOSH Dunoon Bonded-Cotton Raincoat €1,075
ASPESI HERNO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI STILE LATINO
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Suede Bomber Jacket €3,690
ASPESI Washed-Cotton Jacket €340
More detailed compe?tor nalysis refers to appendix 2
www.valstar.it
02 RESEARCH Target Market Global Trend Fashion Trend
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS
GENERATION Z (Potential target market)
Age demographics: Young adults who were born in 1995 or later. Also known as: Post milliners, iGeneration Key Characteristic Technology-dependent. This generation has been shaped by technology.They are living in a society in which constant connectivity and individual mobile devices are normal. Pluralist: "a person who believes that the existence of different types of people, beliefs and opinions within a society is a good thing". Gen-Z believes firmly in equality. Highly educated, technologically savvy, innovative and creative.To the extreme, they do not know the world without internet It is the first generation born into a digital world that lives online and virtually integrates and engages with its favourite brands. (WGSN, 2016).
MILLENNIALS (Potential target market)
Age demographics: Millennials are said to be born between 1980 - 2000. Also known as: Generation Me. Key Characteristic Digital natives: With product information, reviews and price comparisons at their fingertips, Millennials are turning to brands that can offer maximum convenience at the lowest cost. Instant gratification: They are used to instant access to price comparisons, product information and peer reviews.They don’t like to wait and they want what they want. Well-educated, digitally engaged, more openminded, and more supportive of gay rights and equal rights for minorities. Other positives adjectives to describe them include confident, self-expressive, liberal, upbeat and receptive to new ideas and ways of living. (Chiquoine, 2018
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS
THE NEW MALE SHOPPERS ANALYSIS Increased Spending Across all industries, men's spending has increased significantly over the last few years, and there has been a noticeable rise in home appliances.
Brandless Brand names don't mean much to young male consumers. Quality, convenience and value trump the status of a named brand.
Personalised products Custom and personalised apparel services also represent a great opportunity to reach the market. Male shoppers are interested in new start-ups that democratising the tailoring experience, allowing the average man increased access to custom fit shirts, suits and other apparel with more accessible price points.
Basic-stylish functional wardrobe Especially in non-metropolitan areas, males require a more professional wardrobe and may even feel alienated by streetwear culture. Retailers attempting to reach these men should avoid trying to capture the hype of streetwear while offering basics stylish enough to appeal to this newly fashion-conscious cohort.
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All global trends from food to travel to retail revolve around the idea of sustainability and technological innovation. With the evolving power of social media leading to a rise in "clicktivism” brands are being forced to be more aware and conscious about their practices. Further, in the near future with the introduction of 5G a soaring increase in m-commerce is anticipated (Bell, 2018).
www.valstar.it
GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH
VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH
TRAVEL General Idea: The travel experience is evolving rapidly, all touch points of the industry are being retuned to meet rapidly growing as well as shifting consumer expectations and digital capabilities. Beyond the simple idea of traveling for leisure, tourism is being driven by a desire to learn or to give back to communities. Personalised experiences, virtual reality are some key things to look out for. While Aviation industry innovators are already introducing digital bag tags and entirely paperless travel experiences (WGSN, 2015).
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TRAVEL RETAIL
Shifting demographics While Millennials dominated the consumer conversation in 2016, the years ahead bring a subtle shift as demographics diverge and multi-generational groups and solo travelers start to demand attention.
VIRTUAL TRAVEL
TRAVEL RETAIL
Shoppable hospitality gains ground as retail hotels start opening in greater numbers and the gift shop enjoys a modern makeover. Digital travel networks amp up, while physical experiences continue to drive service launches – from Airbnb's Trips to nextlevel foodie travel (Wgsn, 2016) Conscientious Travel more travel brands developing offerings that have sustainability at their core, as well as fundamentally changing their approach to energy and its consumption (WGSN, 2017). Travel retail is spreading beyond the traditional duty-free to emerging downtown stores, particularly in Asia. This is not only with respect to retail but brands will need to look at how they can create the travel experience before the customer leaves their home (WGSN, 2017).
SOLO TRAVEL
SEAMLESS CONNECTIVITY
www.valstar.it
FOOD 17
VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH
www.valstar.it
General Idea: The travel experience is evolving rapidly, all touch points of the industry are being retuned to meet rapidly growing as well as shifting consumer expectations and digital capabilities. Beyond the simple idea of traveling for leisure, tourism is being driven by a desire to learn or to give back to communities. Personalised experiences, virtual reality are some key things to look out for. While Aviation industry innovators are already introducing digital bag tags and entirely paperless travel experiences (WGSN, 2015).
Shoppable hospitality gains ground as retail hotels start opening in greater numbers and the gift shop enjoys a modern makeover. Digital travel networks amp up, while physical experiences continue to drive service launches – from Airbnb's Trips to next-level foodie travel (Wgsn, 2016)
Shifting demographics While Millennials dominated the consumer conversation in 2016, the years ahead bring a subtle shift as demographics diverge and multigenerational groups and solo travelers start to demand attention.
Travel retail is spreading beyond the traditional duty-free to emerging downtown stores, particularly in Asia. This is not only with respect to retail but brands will need to look at how they can create the travel experience before the customer leaves their home (WGSN, 2017).
Conscientious Travel more travel brands developing offerings that have sustainability at their core, as well as fundamentally changing their approach to energy and its consumption (WGSN, 2017).
VALSTAR GLOBAL TREND RESEARCH
SUSTAINABILITY Increasing consciousness A January 2017 international study by Unilever found that 33% of consumers actively engage with brands that are known to be socially and environmentally responsible. With the evolving power of social media leading to a rise in "clicktivism", this number is growing rapidly.
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General Idea: From Millennial-raised Alphas to pro-active Gen X and Boomers, consumer expectations are increasingly demanding more & more brand responsibility.
Driving force Millennials leading the charge (according to Cone, 85% of US Millennials claim to buy responsible products wherever possible), as they combine a passionately-shared social consciousness with active spending power. However, the trend is proving crossgenerational, gaining traction with Gen Z, Gen X, and Boomers Gen z pop culture influence grown up in a digital-first social ecosystem and are increasingly shifting towards eating sustainably with Gen Z celebrities and influencers like Ariana Grande and Noah Cyrus setting meat- and cruelty-free agendas, supported by popular food networks like Teen Vegan Network, and YouTubers and bloggers like Tess Begg and Nina Gabriela further emphasizing the idea. Making this generation actively conscious about transparency with food labeling and ingredients, due to a deep understanding of healthy eating (Baizley, 2018).
www.valstar.it
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With silhouettes becoming more and more oversized and genderless, inclined towards a more utilitarian nature with big logos or wordings for the Instagram frenzy a wide variety of contrasting trends could be noted across the seasons. A clear vision of brands giving more and more importance to sustainability and the technicality of fabrics and garments could be seen. An astonishing amount of reversible, removable, tech fabrics could be seen across collections as well as on the runways.
www.valstar.it
FASHION TREND RESEARCH.
VALSTAR RUNWAY INSPIRATION
NEIL BARRET FW18
EFM FW 18
NEIL BARRET SS18
Fendi FW 18
Haider Ackermann FW 18
Berlutti FW 18
Prada FW 18
Hermes SS 18
Valentino FW 18
Ermenegildo Zegna SS 18
Sacai FW 18
Hermes SS 18
Versace FW 18
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Louis Vuitton FW 18
Junya Watanabe SS 18
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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SHAPES
www.valstar.it
COLOUR TREND
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VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
www.valstar.it
TRIMMINGS
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VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
www.valstar.it
03 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Proposal of the concept for a capsule collection Proposed Target Range plan Moodboard colour chart material chart trimming chart (decoration, embroideries, application‌) product range with colour variants Technical sheets
www.excelsiormilano.com
VALSTAR NEW PROPOSED MOODBOARD
NEW STRATEGIES
GENERATION NEXT 18 - 40 years old Marital Status: Single / Married Income household: Upper middle to high Occupation:Financial, Entrepreneur, Consultant, Economist, Agricultural & Industrial Professionals, Administrator, Medical professionals, Educator. Behavioral Modern innovators, passionate about brand engagement, tend to purchase based on emotion factor, creative vision, sometimes trendsetters, risk takers, seeks high quality & exclusive products. They are in tune with cultural events and happenings, dresses in a subtle but directional way, making them recognisable for their style.
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PROPOSED TARGET MARKET
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VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
SEASONLESS CAPSULE COLLECTION MOODBOARD
The new proposed collec1on is a range of func1onal yet stylish garments for the contemporary man. With increasing consciousness on sustainability, detachable linings and reversible detailing add a second life to the garments by providing two styles in one. Further, camouage prints along with quilted bombers with contras1ng linings in bright orange are for those willing to take risks.
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
PRINTS Patterns inspired by marble, geology and mossy undergrowth are seen in textured prints. Lava, craters and stalagmites,the basis of ashy palette of mineral tones and a variety of glazed and metallic effects. Appear to be grown from nature spark intrigue and have an element of fantasy about them. Popular camouflage evolves with a more elevated, design-led approach that is still rooted in nature
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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COLOUR CHART
C1
19-5320 TCX
C2
16-5106 TCX C3
13-1014 TCX C4
16-1385 TCX
C5 18-0306 TCX
C6 19-0230 TCX
www.valstar.it
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PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT VALSTARINO JACKET: Fabric: Leather Suede Shape: Loose Slightly Oversized Details: Jacket on Jacket Detachable Lining Details
31 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BOMBER JACKET: Fabric: Polyamide Goose Padding Shape & Details: Boxy Oversized Cuff Details Contrast colour lining
32 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TRUCKER JACKET: Fabric: Denim Merino wool Virgin wool Shape & Details: Structured Slightly oversized Patch Work Margiela denim collar
33 PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT RAIN COAT FABRIC: Cotton Twill Polyester+Polyurethane Cupro lining Shape & Details: Structured Raglan Sleeve Marble print - Reversible Contrast colour detachable lining Detachable hoodie
VALSTAR COLLECTION PLAN No
Tyoe of Product
Product Images
V1
1
V2
1
Valstarino
B1
2
Total
B2
B3
2
Bomber Jacket
COLLECTION PLAN
TJ1
3
TJ3
3
Trucker Jacket
RC1
4
TJ2
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VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
RC2
2
Rain Coat
TOTAL
8
35
PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
LOOK 1
www.valstar.it
LOOK 2
LOOK 3
LOOK 4
LOOK 5
LOOK 6
LOOK 7
LOOK 8
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
SHAPE SILHOUETTE
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
FABRIC CHART COLOUR:
F1
F2
POLYAMIDE
COTTON TWILL
F4
C5
MERINO WOOL
COLOUR:
COLOUR:
C3
C4
C1
F5
CUPRO LINING
DENIM
C1
C5
C4
COLOUR:
COLOUR:
F_003
C1
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COLOUR:
F6
POLYESTER + POLYURETHANE
C5
www.valstar.it
VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
LEATHER CHART
PRINT CHART COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT
C1 L1
LEATHER SUEDE
C1
C6
P1
C5
C3
MARBLE PRINT 1
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COLOUR:
COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT COLOUR:
C2 L2
NAPPA LEATHER
C5
P2
C5
C6
MARBLE PRINT 2
www.valstar.it
a
a
Marble print
100% Horn (Buffalo) Button
C5 VALSTAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Double side leather zipper
a
C5
C1
C3
C6
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TRIMMINGS, ACCESSORIES & DECORATION
C5
Taped Zipper
C2
C5
a
Snap buttons
Metal button for denim www.valstar.it
04 TECHNICAL CHART
TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
Detachable shearling collar
REFERENCES
Pocket detail
Jacket on Jacket Detachable vest
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Product Code : VAL_0012 Model : Valstarino Season : Seasonless
FABRICS
L1
LEATHER SUEDE
C1 Shearling
Cuff (Ribs) F1
Notes: Valstarino with detachable shearling collar
NYLON SATIN
C5
TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0110 Model : Bomber Jacket Season : Seasonless
TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
REFERENCES Contrast colour lining
Pocket details
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double side zipper details
FABRICS
F1
NYLON SATIN
C5
CUPRO LINING
C4
LININGS
Notes: Bomber jacket with contrast colour lining
F
5
TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
Tape zipper
REFERENCES
High neck collar
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Product Code : VAL_0022 Model : Bomber Jacket Season : Seasonless
FABRICS
Prints F1
POLYAMIDE
C5
LININGS P1
LAMNINATED WOOL - MARBLE
COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT
Notes: Reversible bomber jacket with marble print
F5
CUPRO LINING
C4 C1
C5
C3
TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0015 Model : Trucker Jacket Season : Seasonless
TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
Patchwork
REFERENCES
Metal Button
F4
Notes: Trucker jacket with wool patchwork
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FABRICS
MERINO WOOL
F4
VIRGIN WOOL
F4
VIRGIN WOOL
C1
C1
C4
TECHNICAL SHEET REFERENCES
Yoke Pannel
TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
Metal Button
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Product Code : VAL_0019 Model : Trucker Jacket Season : Seasonless
FABRICS
Notes: Denim Jacket with patchwork on the shoulder
F4
MERINO WOOL
C1
F3
DENIM
C7
TECHNICAL SHEET Product Code : VAL_0220 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless
TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
REFERENCES
a
Reversible Detail
Horn button
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FABRICS: SIDE 1 COLOUR VARIETY ON PRINT
C1
P1
LAMNINATED WOOL - MARBLE
SIDE 1
F2
Notes: Reversible Raincoat with marble print
COTTON TWILL
C1
C5
C3
TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
Detachable lining
REFERENCES
Double side zipper
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Product Code : VAL_0220 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless
FABRICS
F2
COTTON TWILL
C3
CUPRO LINING
C4
LINING FABRIC
Notes: Detachable rain coat
F5
TECHNICAL SHEET TRIMMINGS & DETAILS
REFERENCES
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Product Code : VAL_0210 Model : Rain Coat Season : Seasonless
Hidden opening
Tape Zipper
FABRICS
Notes: Raincoat with contrast colour lining
F6
POLYESTER + POLYURETHANE
C5
REFERENCES Anon (2015). La Valstar in chiusura: vestì i vip del mondo - Cronaca - Gazzetta di Mantova. [online] Gazzetta di Mantova. Available at: http://gazzettadimantova.gelocal.it/mantova/cronaca/2015/05/31/ news/la-valstar-in-chiusura-vesti-i-vip-del-mondo-1.11529995 [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Anon (2018). valstar. [online] Valstar.it. Available at: http://www.valstar.it/en/ [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Baizley, D. (2018). Sustainability and the Consumer 2018. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76724/page/1 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2018]. Barnes, O. (2018). Trims & Embellishments Forecast A/W 19/20. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77607/page/1 [Accessed 9 Mar. 2018]. Bell, A. (2018). Future Consumer 2020. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77141/page/29 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Blankson, A. (2017). Sustainable Food: A Meatless Future. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74546/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Chiquoine, J. (2018). Millennial Male Shoppers: Retail Strategies. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76796/page/1 [Accessed 12 Feb. 2018]. NoManWalksAlone (2018). No Man Walks Alone. [online] Nomanwalksalone.com. Available at: http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/144/ [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Owen, S. and Jiwrajka, A. (2017). Brand Activation Trends: Food. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74991/page/2 [Accessed 14 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Free Style. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76830/page/1 [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Purpose Full. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76831/page/1 [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. Palmer, H. and Johnston, G. (2018). Men's Textiles Forecast A/W 19/20: Light Magic. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76832/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. Radin, S. (2017). Eating Out, Speaking Up: Food Activism. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75734/page/8 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. TheRakeMagazine (2018). The Rake magazine. [online] The Rake. Available at: https://therake.com/brands/valstar.html [Accessed 9 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2015). The Future of Travel. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/57210/page/6 [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2016). Marketing to Generation Z. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/67056/page/1 [Accessed 15 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2017). Conscientious Travel: New Values and Responsibilities. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/76487/page/1 [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2017). Travel Hubs: New Retail Innovations. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/73666/page/1 [Accessed 5 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Ethical Food: The Responsible Home Cook. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/77044/page/4 [Accessed 4 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: Common Ground. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72944/page/1 [Accessed 8 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: Creative Manifesto. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72846/page/1 [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018]. WGSN (2018). Men's Colour S/S 19: In Touch. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72845/page/1 [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018]. Wgsn.com. (2016). Global Travel Trends 2017. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/69778/page/9 [Accessed 2 Feb. 2018].
1.2 Competitor Analysis