Portfolio - Anna Lee

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ANNA LEE

PORTFOLIO FIT TECHNICAL DESIGER PRODUCTION COORDINATOR 2017

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Contents ANNA LEE FIT TECHNICAL DESIGNER PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

GRAPHIC DESIGN •

1. RESUME 2. PATTERN MAKING:

IMPORT

• TOP PATTERN • VEST PATTERN • SLEEVE PATTERN • BLOUSE PATTERN • BLAZER PATTERN • SKIRT PATTERN • DRESS PATTERN • PANTS PATTERN

SKILLS ILLUSTRATION PHOTOSHOP INDESIGN Microsoft Office . . .

3. FLAT DESIGN 4. GRAPHIC DESIGN 5. TECH PACK: KNIT/ WOVEN

PATTERN MAKING

E-MAIL: gabion2001@gmail.com PAGE - 3


KNIT TOP BASIC PATTERN

back

PAGE - 6

FRONT TYPE -1

FRONT TYPE -2


KNIT TOP -

DART MANIPULATION

ADD SHOULDER FORWARD

PAGE - 7


WOVEN TOP BASIC

PAGE - 8


back -1

back -2

back -3

FRONT -1

FRONT -2

FRONT -3

PAGE - 9


PAGE - 10


vest BASIC

FRONT TYPE -1

FRONT TYPE -2

BACK

PAGE - 11


PAGE - 12


sleeve PATTERN

sleeve type -1

PAGE - 13


sleeve type -2

sleeve type -3

PAGE - 14


sleeve type -4

PAGE - 15


BLOUSE pattern

collar stand shirts blouse -1

PAGE - 16


SHIRTS COLLAR slv blouse -2

SLEEVE

PAGE - 17


stand collar blouse -3

PAGE - 18


Flat collar blouse -4

PAGE - 19


sleeveless shirts -5

raglan sleeve blouse -6

PAGE - 20


sailor collar blouse -7

PAGE - 21


tie collar/pin tuck slv blouse -8

PAGE - 22


PAGE - 23


PAGE - 24


BLAZER type

shawl collar jacket -1

PAGE - 25


tailored jacket -2

PAGE - 26


tailored collar box jacket -3

peak collar short jacket -4

PAGE - 27


basic skirt pattern

PAGE - 28


a - line skirt -1

PAGE - 29


yoke pintuck flare skirt -1

PAGE - 30


yoke pintuck flare skirt -2

PAGE - 31


yoke flair skirt -3

PAGE - 32


yoke flair skirt -4

PAGE - 33


drapped skirt -1

drapped skirt -2

PAGE - 34


drapped skirt -3

drapped skirt -4

PAGE - 35


drapped skirt -5

high-waist short skirt -1

PAGE - 36


h - line skirt -1

PAGE - 37


mermaid skirt -1

PAGE - 38


mermaid skirt -2

PAGE - 39


ruffled skirt

box pleats skirt/pants

PAGE - 40


bell skirt

PAGE - 41


PAGE - 42


basic dress

PAGE - 43


basic pants

PAGE - 44


skinny pants -1

PAGE - 45


straight pants -2

PAGE - 46


PAGE - 47


flat design -1

PAGE - 48


flat design -2

PAGE - 49


flat design -3

PAGE - 50


flat design -4

PAGE - 51


GRAPHIC DESIGN -1

PAGE - 52


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GRaphic design -2

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GRAPHIC DESIGN -3

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93101010

TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 56

Date Folder Modified


93101010 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1 2

Date Folder Modified

Class

Sub - Class

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses Overlock

10-12 Stitches per inch 3/8” - 1/2” 4 or 5 thread safety stitch, pressed towards backs unless otherwise stated

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses

Clean finish w/1/4” self binding, inside SN chainstitch - Use self cross grain binding turn to inside and 1/4” S.N. Chaninstitch

OPENING

5 6

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses

11 12 13

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Armhole Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Armhole - Pressing Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Sleeve - Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Sleeve - Hem Outerwear, Dresses

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses

18

Clean finish w/ 1/4” self binding, inside SN chainstitch, - Use self crass grain binding turn to inside and 1/4” S.N. chainstitch. Press towards sleeve 1 Piece Sleeve Bend back, overlock -bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing

1/2”

Press towards back

SLITS/VENTS/BOTTOM HEMS

16 17

(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape

BODY SEAMS

14 15

Mock Safety

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE

9 10

Pull - on

SHOULDER & YOKE

7 8

Details

COLLAR & NECK

3 4

Feature

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Body Hem Outerwear, Dresses Pleats

Bend back, overlock-bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing

1/2”

13 Pleats at front and 13 pleats at back . Pleats at back. Pleat width=3/4”, Front pleat depth=1/2”, Back pleat depth =3/8”, All pleats are facing to wearer’s left side. Stitch down all pleats to body along bottom edges width horizontal s.n. chainstitch. Horizontal stitch should be on pleated areas only - do not extend past pleats PAGE - 57


93101010 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Fit Comments:

1. Front armhole is pulling up especially on wearer’s left side. Shoulder is too sloped. After reduce shoulder slop, this pulling clears up a little bit. Make sure binding is not distorting armhole shape.

2. Chest is pulling because chest is too tight. Increase chest to spec by adding 1/4” to fornt and back side seams. Blend smooth line to 0” at empire waist. 3. Reduce shoulder slop by adding 1/4” to front and back shoulder /a.h. to 0” at neck. 4. Fill in front armhole curve 1/4” as shown. All of the above must be improved and corrected for bulk production.

PAGE - 58


93101010 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

POM

Date Folder Modified

Description

Tol (-/+)

S

100

Back Length HPS fold

1/2”

30”

200

Across Shoulder - Reference Point

3/8”

15”

200A

Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder

3/8”

23 1/4”

210A

Chest Width 1” blow A/H

3/8”

19 1/4”

140

Blouson Waist placement blw HPS

1/4”

21 1/2”

225A

Waist Width

3/8”

22”

260A

Swep Width along Bottom Edge

38”

23 1/2”

310A

SlV Length fr CBN,Short -Set -in/Dropped Shoulder

1/2”

12 3/4”

370

Armhole Width along Edge -Dropped Shoulder

1/4”

8”

942

Armhole Hem Height

1/8”

1/2”

291

Bottom Hem Height

1/8”

1/2”

121

Neck Width to Edge

1/4”

8 3/4”

130

Front Neck Drop to Split Bottom Edge -Chest

1/4”

7 1/8”

425

Back Neck Drop to Edge -High

1/4”

1”

280

Neckband Height at CB

1/8”

1/4”

281

Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - A/H

1/8”

1/4”

283

Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - Neck

1/8”

1/4”

283

Shoulder Slope @ REFERENCE POING

0

7/8”

980

Shoulder Slope

0

3 1/4”

915

Minimum Neck Opening

0

24”

910

Belt Length

3/4”

60”

916

Belt Length

1/8”

1/4”

928

Shirttail Height at Back

1/4”

0

Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1

Sample 1

Revised Spec

PAGE - 59


93101025

TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 60

Date Folder Modified


93101025 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1

Date Folder Modified

Class

Sub - Class

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses

10-12 Stitches per inch

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses

Neckband-other,

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses

10 11 12

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

15 16

Armhole - Pressing Sleeve - Type

Kimono

Sleeve - Hem

Bend back, overlock -bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing

19 20 21

1/2”

BODY SEAMS KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses Center Back Seams

Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back Mock safety stitch

4 thread w/Single needle chainstitch

WAIST

17 18

(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape

Armhole

13 14

Mock Safety

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE

8 9

Pull on

SHOULDER & YOKE

6 7

2 ply self, edge on fold,cut on cross grain, Overlock to neck edge. 1/16” edgestitch on body with seam press to body

OPENING

4 5

Details

COLLAR & NECK

2 3

Feature

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Drawstring Placement Full drawstring Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Drawstring Finish Clean finish ends Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, WAIST Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Shirt type -vertical

Tunnel through buttonholes ends clean finish inside cord inside wasit casing of self fabric -cross cut out casing. Edges overlocked. Casing is topstitched thru to face spaced 1/2” apart. BH located at CF casing spaced 1 1/2” apart. PAGE - 61


93101025 1st Fit comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

FIT COMMENTS: 1. KEEP PROPORTION FOR BODY LENGTH AS 1st PROTO . 2, Underarm too low, Raise underarm 1/2” and raise shoulder slop 1/4” (shoulder slop will reduce 1/4”) 3. Re underam slv/chest width -fill in 1/8” for less severse curve at underarm. 4. RE neckline: Maintain nice shape while raiseing from neck depth 1/4”. 5. Bring all points of measure to requested specs.

PAGE - 62


93101025 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

POM

Description

Tol (-/+)

S

100

Back Length HPS fold

1/2”

30”

200

Across Shoulder - Reference Point

3/8”

15”

200A

Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder

3/8”

23 1/4”

210A

Chest Width 1” blow A/H

3/8”

19 1/4”

140

Blouson Waist placement blw HPS

1/4”

21 1/2”

225A

Waist Width

3/8”

22”

260A

Swep Width along Bottom Edge

38”

23 1/2”

310A

SlV Length fr CBN,Short -Set -in/Dropped Shoulder

1/2”

12 3/4”

370

Armhole Width along Edge -Dropped Shoulder

1/4”

8”

942

Armhole Hem Height

1/8”

1/2”

291

Bottom Hem Height

1/8”

1/2”

121

Neck Width to Edge

1/4”

8 3/4”

130

Front Neck Drop to Split Bottom Edge -Chest

1/4”

7 1/8”

425

Back Neck Drop to Edge -High

1/4”

1”

280

Neckband Height at CB

1/8”

1/4”

281

Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - A/H

1/8”

1/4”

283

Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - Neck

1/8”

1/4”

283

Shoulder Slope @ REFERENCE POING

0

7/8”

980

Shoulder Slope

0

3 1/4”

915

Minimum Neck Opening

0

24”

910

Belt Length

3/4”

60”

916

Belt Length

1/8”

1/4”

928

Shirttail Height at Back

1/4”

0

Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1

Sample 1

Revised Spec

PAGE - 63


93101011

TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 64

Date Folder Modified


93101011 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1

Date Folder Modified

Class

Sub - Class

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses

4 5

10-12 Stitches per inch

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses Knit -Shirts, jackets, Outerwear, Dresses Knit- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

CUTTING DIRECTION Lapel/ Hood Neck

NAP DOWN 2 Piece self hood -overlock neck edge, attach hood to neck seam Hood lined edge to edge w/DTM jersey Cover back neck seam w/3/8” DTM crosscut jersey binding. Bendback ends to cleanfinish. SN chainstitch.

OPENING

6 7

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses

Pull on

SHOULDER

8 9

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses

Mock Safety

12 13 14

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Armhole Armhole - Pressing

Mock safety (4 -thread) - closed

Sleeve - Type

Dolma

Sleeve - Hem

Bend back, Coverstitch - Bottom coverstitch, 1/4” spacing.

BODY SEAMS

15 16 17

KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses

20 21 22

Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back

POCKET & SLITS/VENTS/BTTM HEM

18 19

(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE

10 11

Details

COLLAR & NECK & CUTTING DIRECTION

2 3

Feature

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

ON SEAM POCKET BAG

Front Princess seams - Pocket has step Interface opening, backstitch. Bartack Opening. DTM jersey, Overlock edges, Catch bttm of bag in hem.

Reinforcement/Bart- Bartack Pocket Openings ack Drawstring Placement Full drawstring - Tunnel through buttonholes spaced 3 1/4” apart on hood neck opening. 1/4” DTM jersey sapaghetti.

PAGE - 65


93101011 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Fit Comments: * Reduce across shoulder measurement to 15" * Above corrections reduces shoulder slope. Will advise after next sample * Make shoulder seam forward 1/2" at neck and 3/4" at AH * Reduce neck width to 6 3/4" * Reduce chest to 22" * Reduce sweep to 22" * Reduce front seams apart at hem to 17" * Remove from body, style will have side panel * Add a horizontal seam 1 1/2" below AH curve. Incorporate dart shaping into seam- see new sketch * Remove outside seam on sleeve- slv will be 1 piece * Underarm curve is too sharp, fill in to be more gentle * Reduce width at elbow blending to 0 at muscle and slv opening * Trim 1" from CF hood opening blending to 0 at sides- see photo * Bring drawstring length back to spec * Make sure coverstitching encloses raw edge on hems, sample has about 1/8" raw edge visible in places * Bring all measurements back to spe

PAGE - 66


93101011 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

PAGE - 67


93101013

TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 68

Date Folder Modified


93101011 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1

Date Folder Modified

Class

Sub - Class

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses

4 5

10-12 Stitches per inch

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, BUTTON Outerwear, Dresses Knit -Shirts, jackets, Collar Outerwear, Dresses Knit- Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses

Shirt Type, 3 - 36L Shawl Colar construction, 2 ply -self Back neck - Overlock to Collar. Use clear plastic tape to prevent stretching. Cleanfinish w/ 1/4” self binding. 1/4” bendback to cleanfinish ends of binding.

OPENING

6 7 8 9 9

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, PLACKET Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Button Spacing Outerwear, Dresses

Pull on

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses

Mock Safety

Self placket attached - Fuse, Clean finish at hem edge Spacing - 2nd button is 3.5” from 1st. All other buttons spaced evenly apart BUTTON SPACING MUST GRADE ACCORDINGLY FOR ALL SIZES.

12 13 14

KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Armhole

Mock safery stitch (4 stitch) - closed

Armhole - Pressing

Press Towards Sleeve

Sleeve - Type

1 Piece Sleeve

Sleeve - Hem

Bend back, Coverstitch - Bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing. 3/4” Set Sleeve first - Then close side seam & underam seam all in one

BODY SEAMS

15 16 17

(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE

10 11

Details

COLLAR & NECK & CUTTING DIRECTION

2 3

Feature

KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses

Mock safety stitch - 4 thread - Closed Press towards back

POCKET & SLITS/VENTS/BTTM HEM

18 19

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Patch - Hip Outerwear, Dresses

20

KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Bottom Hem Outerwear, Dresses

1 Each side front -self -Top apply. Merrow, 1” bendback, SN at top edge. Reinforce top corners. Pocket has 1” of added slouch and is slightly rounded at btm corners. Fuse Opening. Bend back - bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing, 3/4”

PAGE - 69


93101013 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Fit Comments: * Bring neck width back to spec * Collar pulls around nk. Outer edge of collar is too short. Add 1/4” at CB top blending to 0 at nk- see photo * Fusible used has no give. Use lightweight knit fusible * Raise bk nk drop to 3/4” * Reduce across shoulder to 14 1/2 * Reduce across back to 14, & across frt to 13 * Shift front nk width out 1/4”- see photo * Fill in lower frt Ah curve 1/8”- see photo * Scoop lower bk AH curve 1/8” * Frt SS in chest area does not match back. Straighten to remove curve- see photo * Increase sweep 3/4” blending to 0 at chest, waist will also increase. Keep shape smooth * Shift sleeve cap width 1/4” evely toward back. Back cap width will be bigger than frt * Make sure that underarms on sleeve is not too scooped * Reduce sleeve length to 31 1/2” * Increase sweep 3/4” blending to 0 at chest, waist will also increase. Keep shape smooth * Ok to keep fusible in pocket opening but must use knit fusible * Increase topstitch length to 8 spi. Esp stitches on pocket are too tiny * Bring all measurements back to spec

PAGE - 70


93101013 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Slim fit on shoulders, increase sweep width blending to 0 at chest

Shift frt neck width out 1/4” blend to fill in underarm curve 1/8”

Collar pulls around neck when folded. Add 1/4” to outer edge of collar bending to 0” at neck.

Staighten frt SS removing curves. Should be same shape as back SS for balance. PAGE - 71


93101017

TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 72

Date Folder Modified


93101017 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

#

Date Folder Modified

Class

1

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

2

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Sub - Class Stitch Length

10 Stitches per inch

COLLAR & NECK WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Neck

OPENING

4 5

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Opening Type

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Shoulder

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE

8 10 11 12

WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Armhole - Pressing

Press towards sleeve

Sleeve - Type

2 Piece Sleeve

Sleeve Finish

15

WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

BODY SEAMS Side Seams

18 19

Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back

BACK VENT & LINING

16 17

1” bend back and Apply sleeve edge to lining

BODY SEAMS

13 14

Pull - on

SHOULDER & YOKE

6 7

Details

Overlock

2 3

Feature

WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Oterwear

BACK VENT

CB VENT w/ angled stich @ top 1 1/2”

LINING

1 Pleats at back neck facing to nothing at hem, Full lining sewn to facings and into sleeve and hem bands. Pockets not lined.

FUSE

Bottom Collar/ front facing /back facing/ Pocket

PAGE - 73


93101017 Construstion Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

3/4” Single wel height w/ 1/2” angled up

1/4” besom welt on top of flap Flap height included welt: 2 1/8”

PAGE - 74

CB VENT w/ angled stitch @top 1 1/2”


93101017 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

POM 100

Date Folder Modified

Description

Tol (-/+)

S

Back Length HPS fold

1/2”

28”

Front Length HPS fold

1/2”

29 1/2”

200

Across Shoulder

3/8”

15”

200A

Across Shoulder

3/8”

210A

Chest Width 1” blow A/H

3/8”

17 3/4”

140

Waist placement from HPS

1/4”

14 1/2”

225A

Waist Width

3/8”

17”

260A

Sweep Width (Stright)

38”

21 3/4”

310A

SlV Length fr Armhole

1/2”

25 1/2”

370

Armhole Width along Edge

1/4”

942

Muscle Width (1” blw A/H)

1/8”

6 1/8”

291

Sleeve Opening

1/8”

5 1/2”

130

Collar Point

1 1/4”

425

Collar Height at CB

2 3/8”

280

Collar Stand Height at CB

1 1/8”

121

Lapel Point

1/4”

1 1/4”

915

Neck Width

0

7 1/2”

130

Front Neck Drop to Point

1/4”

7 1/8”

425

Back Neck Drop to Edge

1/4”

1/2”

Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1

Sample 1

Revised Spec

PAGE - 75


93101030

TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall

Item Type

Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 76

Date Folder Modified


93101030 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1

Date Folder Modified

Class WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Sub - Class Stitch Length

2 3

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Neck BAND

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Opening Type

10 11 12 14 15 16

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Shoulder

19

Zipper On

2” Shoulder Forward

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE & FRONT WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Armhole CF ZIPPER

ZIPPER TAPE IS COVERED W/ ZIPPER TEETH IS EXPOSED

Sleeve - Type

2 PIECE SLEEVES

Sleeve - Hem

2” DTM RIB, APPLY TO SLEEVE

WOVEN-Shirts, Jack- FRONT OPENING ets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Side Seams Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

3/8” SN TOP STITCH cf CF

WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerware, Dresses

SINGLE BESOM PKT, EDGE STITCH AROUND PKT. 1/4” BARTACK @ EACH END OF OPENING

17 18

1/4” SN TOP STITCH unless otherwise indicated. Neck Collar Height (DTM RIB)@ CB: 1 1/2”

SHOULDER & YOKE

8 9

10 Stitches per inch

OPENING

6 7

Details

COLLAR & NECK

4 5

Feature

FRONT POCKET

Press towards back

Center Back Seams POCKET

PAGE - 77


93101030 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

FIT COMMENTS: 1. All stitching must be straight and even. 2. Overall thread tension must be adjusted properly to avoid puckering. 3. Garment must be cut on straight grain. 4. Zippers/Snaps/Buttons/Toggles etc. must be clean width no frayed exposed ends and evenly spaced. 5. Buttons should be proper secured. Outerwear and Jackets should use button shank wrapping machines to make the shank of button secure width proper elastic thread. 6. Neckline must be symmetrical side to side. 7. Must clip all loose thread ends. 8. The Cover- Stitching must enclose all rass edges at lining. 9. No over pressing and avoid any pressing maks in all garments. 10. Ease Sleeve Cap Evenly. 11. Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches must align. 12. Ease amount given to sleeve cap can be more or less. 13. Sleeve should be two pieces sleeves unless otherwise specified. 14. Tape at Neckline, shoulder and Armhole. 15. Seams Press Open.

PAGE - 78


93101030 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

POM

Date Folder Modified

Description

Tol (-/+)

S

100

Back Length HPS fold

1/2”

27 1/4”

100A

Front Length HPS fold

1/2”

28”

200

Across Shoulder - 3PT

3/8”

19”

200A

Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder

3/8”

210A

Chest Width 1” blow A/H

3/8”

47”

140

Across Front Width 7” blw HPS

1/4”

16 3/4”

225A

Across Back Width 7” blw HPS

3/8”

18”

210

Shoulder Slope

0

2 1/4”

260A

Sweep Width - Relaxed

3/8”

37 1/2””

260

sweep Width - Stretched

310A

SlV Length fr CBN

1/2”

36”

370

Armhole depth

1/4”

11 1/2”

371

Muscle wdith(1” blw)

942

Elbow 9” down Armhole

1/8”

14 1/2”

291

Bottom Hem Height

1/8”

2 1/4”

121

Neck Collar Height @ CB

1/4”

2 1/4”

130

Cuff Opening Stretched

1/4”

11 1/2”

425

Cuff Opening Relaxed

1/4”

8 1/2”

280

Cuff Height

1/8”

2 1/4”

281

Neck Width(HPS to HPS)

1/8”

6 3/4”

283

Front Neck Drop(from HPS)

1/8”

4 1/4”

283

Back Neck Drop

0

1/2”

980

Collar Length(Outer edge Curved)

0

17 1/2”

915

CB Collar Height(not incl stand)

0

1 1/2”

Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1

Sample 1

Revised Spec

45”

16 1/2”

PAGE - 79


93101040

TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 80

Date Folder Modified


93101040 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

# 1

Date Folder Modified

Class WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Sub - Class Stitch Length

2 3

Feature 8 -9 Stitches per inch COLLAR & NECK

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Neck BAND

OPENING

4 5

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Opening Type

Zipper On

SHOULDER & YOKE

6 7

Details

WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Shoulder Seam

2” Shoulder Forward

ARMHOLE & SLEEVE & FRONT

8 Armhole Pressing

11

WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

PLACKET

1 1/2” wide 2 ply placket, w/edge stitch on body, Clean finish around edge , hidden snaps

12

WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear

Sleeve TYPE

2 PIECE

14

WOVEN-Shirts, Jack- BOTTOM HEM ets, Outerwear

SEAMED, 1 1/2” SELF FACING AND SET ON LINING

15

WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

Press towards back

9 10

Toward Sleeve

CF ZIPPER

Side Seams

16

Center Back Seams

17

POCKET

18 19

WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses WOVEN-Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses

FRONT POCKET

PAGE - 81


93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Bring all Measurements back to spec & follow Revised spec/ Attached pic for next sample First of all, Pls Check both Design and Construction Details Page before start pattern making.

FIT COMMENTs: NOT APVD, SEND PP SAMPLE WITH BLW CHANGES ASAP.

WORKMANSHIP:

1. PLS USE CFMED RIB QUILTY WAS USED FOR PROTO SAMPLE 2. REDUCE INSIDE PKT DEPTH AS PIC 3. SEE DROPPED SHOULDER EDGE. YOU MUST FIX SLV CAP ALONG 6. NECKLINE MUST BE SYMMETRICAL SIDE TO SIDE. 7. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 9. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 10. WAIST BELT IS BENDED AS BOW. SO, CUT AND SEW TOP AND BTTM OF BELT AND ADD INTERFACING. 11. REMOVE WOVON LOGO FLAG FROM PRINCESS SEAM AND SEE UPDATED SKETCH PAGE 12.BTTM HEM CONSTRUCTION IS CHANGED TO “CUT AND SEW”, SEAMED AND 1 1/2” SELF FACING AND SET ON LINING 9. REDUCE BELT L/H TO 42 1/2”. 4. PLS CHECK NECK RIB L/H AND NECKLINE L/H. NECK TRIM IS WAVING. 5. OVERALL THREAD TENTION MUST BE ADJUSTED PROPERLY TO AVOID PUKERING AND PULLING ON BODY

SPEC,FIT:

1. WAIST SEAM @CF IS HIKING. SO, PLS ADD 1/4~3/8” @CF BLENDING 0” SIDE JUST IN TOP PANEL. SEE REF PIC. 2. PLS SUGGEST GIVEN SPEC AFTER CORRECTION A/H SHAPE AS PIC. 3. WAIST WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL. 4. INCREASE SLV L/H TO 23” 5. INCREASE FRONT PKT OPENING WIDTH TO FROM 6 1/4” TO 6 1/2” 6. MUST REVIEW WITH YOUR KEEPING SAMPLE FOR SLV SHAPE. 7. MAKE MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE AND THEN BALANCE BY LOWER CAP HEIGHT 1/2~ 1” AS PIC. 8. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL. ***MUST

PAGE - 82


93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

PAGE - 83


93101030 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 84

Date Folder Modified


93101010 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

PAGE - 85


93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 86

Date Folder Modified


93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

PAGE - 87


93101050

TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

Bring all Measurements back to spec & follow Revised spec/ Attached pic for next samples First of all, Pls Check both Design and Construction Details Page before start pattern making.

FIT COMMENTs

NOT APVD, SEND PP SAMPLE WITH BLW CHANGES ASAP. WORKMANSHIP: 1. PLS USE CFMED RIB QUILTY WAS USED FOR PROTO SAMPLE 2. REDUCE INSIDE PKT DEPTH AS PIC 3. SEE DROPPED SHOULDER EDGE. YOU MUST FIX SLV CAP ALONG 5. NECKLINE MUST BE SYMMETRICAL SIDE TO SIDE. 6. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 7. START SHIRRING 2 1/2” FROM A/H SEAM, 3” FROM BTTM EDGE. SAMPLE IS SPREAD OUT THAN PTTN SPEC. 10. CF ZIPPER- GUNMETAL#8 1WAY, SLV ZIPPER- GUNMETAL #5 AND SNAP ON SLV IS GUNMETAL. 3. PLS CHECK NECK RIB L/H AND NECKLINE L/H. NECK TRIM IS WAVING. 4. OVERALL THREAD TENTION MUST BE ADJUSTED PROPERLY TO AVOID PUKERING AND PULLING ON BODY SPEC,FIT: 1. SHOULDER WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL 2. PLS SUGGEST GIVEN SPEC AFTER CORRECTION A/H SHAPE AS PIC. 3. WAIST WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL. 4. INCREASE SLV L/H TO 23” 5. INCREASE FRONT PKT OPENING WIDTH TO FROM 6 1/4” TO 6 1/2” 6. MUST REVIEW WITH YOUR KEEPING SAMPLE FOR SLV SHAPE. 7. MAKE MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE AND THEN BALANCE BY LOWER CAP HEIGHT 1/2~ 1” AS PIC. 8. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL. 11. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL.

PAGE - 88


93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

PAGE - 89


93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

PAGE - 90

Date Folder Modified


93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

**THIS ONE IS DROPPED SHOULDER STYLE, SO YOU HAVE TO MAKE A MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE, SEE BLW A/H SHAPE. AND THEN, ADJUST MUSCLE SPEC AFTER CORRECTION AS BLW AND SUGGEST FRONT/ BACK ACROSS SPEC!!

PAGE - 91


93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

Date Folder Modified

DO NOT FOLLOW ANY CURCED A/H SHAPE SHOWN BLW, YOU HAVE TO BALANCE AND ADJUST WITH A/H(BODY)

EXTEND SLV OPENING@ CUFF SEAM FROM UNDERARM NATUALLY

PAGE - 92


G - SPEC Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017

POM

Date Folder Modified

Description

Tol(-/+)

XS

S

M

L

XL

100

Front Length from HPS

1/2”

26 1/2”

27”

27 1/2/”

28”

28 1/2”

200

CB Length

1/2”

26”

26 1/2”

27”

27 1/2”

28”

206

Chest-1” below armhole

1/2”

40 1/2”

42 1/2”

44 1/2”

47”

49 1/2”

203

Sweep (relaxed)

1/2”

35 1/2”

37 1/2”

39 1/2”

42”

44 1/2”

210A Sweep (extended)

1/2”

38 1/2”

40 1/2”

42 1/2”

45”

47 1/2”

124

Bottom hem height

1/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

124

Across Front(6” down from HPS)

1/4”

15 1/2”

16”

16 1/2”

17 1/4”

18”

140

Across Back (5 1/2” down fr CB NK)

1/4”

16 1/2”

17”

17 1/2”

18 1/4”

19”

260A Acoss Shoulder

1/4”

17 1/2”

18”

18 1/2”

19 1/4”

20”

325

CB Sleeve length (3 pt)

1/4”

35 3/4”

36 1/4”

36 3/4”

37 1/2”

38 1/4”

310

Armhole (curved)

1/4”

21 1/2”

22 1/4”

23”

24”

25”

285A Muscle (1” below)

1/4”

16”

16 1/2”

17”

17 3/4”

18 1/2”

360A Elbow (@ 8 1/2” from A/H)

1/8”

14”

14 3/8”

14 3/4”

15 1/4”

15 3/4”

200

1/4”

12”

12 1/4”

12 1/2”

12 3/4”

13”

291A Sleeve Opening

1/4”

8 1/2”

8 3/4”

9”

9 1/4”

9 1/2”

280

Sleeve Hem Height

1/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

3/8”

281

Forward Shoulder

1/8”

1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

1/2”

283

Shoulder Slope

1/8”

2”

2”

2”

2”

2”

980

Neck Width(HPS to HPS)

1/4”

6 3/4”

7”

7 1/4”

7 1/2”

7 3/4”

400

Front neck drop from HPS

1/4”

3 8/7”

4”

4 1/8”

4 1/4”

4 3/8”

291A Back neck drop

1/4”

3/4”

3/4”

3/4”

3/4”

3/4”

325

Top Collar edge Circ(inc, CF Zipper)

1/8”

18”

18 1/2”

19”

19 1/2”

20”

327

Neck Circumference(inc. CF Zipper)

1/8”

19 1/2”

20”

20 1/2”

21”

21 1/2”

400

Collar Height

1/8”

1 3/4”

1 3/4”

1 3/4”

1 3/4”

1 3/4”

415

Hip PKT Length

1/8”

7”

7 1/4”

7 1/4”

7 1/2”

7 1/2”

416

Hip PKT Spread(TOP-Across CF)

1/8”

11 1/2”

12”

12 1/2”

13 1/4”

14”

417

Hip PKT Soread(btm- Across CF)

1/8”

14”

14 1/2”

15”

15 3/4”

16 1/2”

418

Hip PKT Placementfrom Hem

1/4”

2 3/4”

2 7/8”

3”

3 1/8”

3 1/4”

500

Hood Height @ CF

1/4”

14 3/4”

14 3/4”

14 3/4”

14 3/4”

14 3/4”

501

Hood Width @ 8” from CB Neck

1/4”

11”

11”

11”

11”

11 1/4”

Foream Circ @ Cuff Seam

PAGE - 93


Thank you for reading my digital portfolio! I appreciate your time and I will be looking forwarding to hearing from you.

Contact me anytime at: gabion2001@gmail.com ANNA LEE

PAGE - 95


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