ANNA LEE
PORTFOLIO FIT TECHNICAL DESIGER PRODUCTION COORDINATOR 2017
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Contents ANNA LEE FIT TECHNICAL DESIGNER PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
GRAPHIC DESIGN •
1. RESUME 2. PATTERN MAKING:
IMPORT
• TOP PATTERN • VEST PATTERN • SLEEVE PATTERN • BLOUSE PATTERN • BLAZER PATTERN • SKIRT PATTERN • DRESS PATTERN • PANTS PATTERN
SKILLS ILLUSTRATION PHOTOSHOP INDESIGN Microsoft Office . . .
3. FLAT DESIGN 4. GRAPHIC DESIGN 5. TECH PACK: KNIT/ WOVEN
PATTERN MAKING
E-MAIL: gabion2001@gmail.com PAGE - 3
PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE OVI (IMPORT): Production Coordinator/ Fit Technical Designer LA/02.2015 -Present MAJOR BUYER: GUESS/ AGACI/ OSCAR/ STITCH FIX/ LULU • Create tech packs for new samples, update TP as requested revisions and modify design in Illustration, Photoshop and Excel programs. • Costing (FOB/LDP) for all styles width vender in China. • Follow up Po / Enter data and information from customer purchased orders w/ SKY program. • Oversea and manage all aspects of the production process from inception through completion to ensure on-time delivery of quality garments/ develop production calendar. • Pattern correction for fit approval in some cases. • Manage communications with factories to resolve any fit and production issues. • Participate in Fitting on live models with design team/ note fit comments. • Review fit samples to TOP and provide fit recommendation and direction to factories/ Manage color/ Bulk cfm. • Monitor production status of all styles and report on a weekly status chart to my boss. • Engage in quality control/assurance checks to ensure proper construction, quality, sewing, pattern issue and measurement of all garments. • Quality Control for all of Production Samples.
NEO (IMPORT): Fit Technical Designer
NJ/ 10.2011 - 01.2015
• Create accurate technical tech packs w/construction details of garments and from initial spec to grading specification, detailed sketches and update, and revise as needed. • Manage and attend fit sessions with designers and sales team to evaluate fit, quality and construction, assure proper size, function, and technical execution of design. • Pattern correction for fit approval in some cases. • Work directly with venders to meet best quality in women’s, men’s divisions and delivery deadlines. • Create/ review paper pattern for fit approval and sometimes communicates with pattern maker in factory. • Review, revise and records spec during the development process (with live model) including fit, styling and/or construction details and make adjustments to graded spec sheets. • Establish, monitor and maintain fit and quality for assigned product and ensure consistency across all vendor and factory. • Created and manage“MESUREMENT MANUAL” for TOP and Bottom only for NEO. PAGE - 4
PBMS (BUYING AGENCY): Fit Technical Designer- Senior Manager SEOUL/ 07.2007-12.2010 MAJOR BUYER: JJILL, EXPRESS, TALBOT, LIZ CLAIBORNE and Michael Kors, NAUTICA, PINK, Forever 21 • Create block pattern and closely work with pattern maker in vendor for best silhouette. • Suggest best-fit alternatives to the buyers on construction of garments. • Evaluate fit samples from vendors, and check graded nests for production. • Ensure fit corrections regarding overall fit samples and posted fit comments on TP from buyer after fitting on dummy. • Manage product details through a complete specification for best quality. • Monitor and track the status of all developments and production samples. • Coordinate weekly fit sessions meeting with Merchants in office and also with manager (QC) of product development by phone for prevent accidents in factory.
MOLAX TRADING (EXPORT): Fit Technical Designer- Senior Assistant
SEOUL/07.2002–05.2007
MAJOR BUYER: CHARMING SHOPPES.INC (FB/LB), and A&F HOLLISTER • Review samples through body fitting with pattern maker in sample room for fit approval. • Conduct fit sessions via pattern corrections on paper, pattern diagram with digital images for pattern maker.
EDUCATION LAPC College COMPUTER GRAPHIC DESIGN
LA 2016 ~ OCT.2017
PAI CHAI UNIVERSITY Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design
Daejeon/ Korea 03.1996 - 02.2002
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KNIT TOP BASIC PATTERN
back
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FRONT TYPE -1
FRONT TYPE -2
KNIT TOP -
DART MANIPULATION
ADD SHOULDER FORWARD
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WOVEN TOP BASIC
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back -1
back -2
back -3
FRONT -1
FRONT -2
FRONT -3
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PAGE - 10
vest BASIC
FRONT TYPE -1
FRONT TYPE -2
BACK
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sleeve PATTERN
sleeve type -1
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sleeve type -2
sleeve type -3
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sleeve type -4
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BLOUSE pattern
collar stand shirts blouse -1
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SHIRTS COLLAR slv blouse -2
SLEEVE
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stand collar blouse -3
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Flat collar blouse -4
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sleeveless shirts -5
raglan sleeve blouse -6
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sailor collar blouse -7
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tie collar/pin tuck slv blouse -8
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BLAZER type
shawl collar jacket -1
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tailored jacket -2
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tailored collar box jacket -3
peak collar short jacket -4
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basic skirt pattern
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a - line skirt -1
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yoke pintuck flare skirt -1
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yoke pintuck flare skirt -2
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yoke flair skirt -3
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yoke flair skirt -4
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drapped skirt -1
drapped skirt -2
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drapped skirt -3
drapped skirt -4
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drapped skirt -5
high-waist short skirt -1
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h - line skirt -1
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mermaid skirt -1
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mermaid skirt -2
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ruffled skirt
box pleats skirt/pants
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bell skirt
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basic dress
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basic pants
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skinny pants -1
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straight pants -2
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flat design -1
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flat design -2
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flat design -3
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flat design -4
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GRAPHIC DESIGN -1
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GRaphic design -2
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GRAPHIC DESIGN -3
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93101010
TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 56
Date Folder Modified
93101010 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1 2
Date Folder Modified
Class
Sub - Class
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses Overlock
10-12 Stitches per inch 3/8” - 1/2” 4 or 5 thread safety stitch, pressed towards backs unless otherwise stated
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses
Clean finish w/1/4” self binding, inside SN chainstitch - Use self cross grain binding turn to inside and 1/4” S.N. Chaninstitch
OPENING
5 6
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses
11 12 13
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Armhole Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Armhole - Pressing Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Sleeve - Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Sleeve - Hem Outerwear, Dresses
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses
18
Clean finish w/ 1/4” self binding, inside SN chainstitch, - Use self crass grain binding turn to inside and 1/4” S.N. chainstitch. Press towards sleeve 1 Piece Sleeve Bend back, overlock -bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing
1/2”
Press towards back
SLITS/VENTS/BOTTOM HEMS
16 17
(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape
BODY SEAMS
14 15
Mock Safety
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE
9 10
Pull - on
SHOULDER & YOKE
7 8
Details
COLLAR & NECK
3 4
Feature
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Body Hem Outerwear, Dresses Pleats
Bend back, overlock-bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing
1/2”
13 Pleats at front and 13 pleats at back . Pleats at back. Pleat width=3/4”, Front pleat depth=1/2”, Back pleat depth =3/8”, All pleats are facing to wearer’s left side. Stitch down all pleats to body along bottom edges width horizontal s.n. chainstitch. Horizontal stitch should be on pleated areas only - do not extend past pleats PAGE - 57
93101010 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Fit Comments:
1. Front armhole is pulling up especially on wearer’s left side. Shoulder is too sloped. After reduce shoulder slop, this pulling clears up a little bit. Make sure binding is not distorting armhole shape.
2. Chest is pulling because chest is too tight. Increase chest to spec by adding 1/4” to fornt and back side seams. Blend smooth line to 0” at empire waist. 3. Reduce shoulder slop by adding 1/4” to front and back shoulder /a.h. to 0” at neck. 4. Fill in front armhole curve 1/4” as shown. All of the above must be improved and corrected for bulk production.
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93101010 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
POM
Date Folder Modified
Description
Tol (-/+)
S
100
Back Length HPS fold
1/2”
30”
200
Across Shoulder - Reference Point
3/8”
15”
200A
Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder
3/8”
23 1/4”
210A
Chest Width 1” blow A/H
3/8”
19 1/4”
140
Blouson Waist placement blw HPS
1/4”
21 1/2”
225A
Waist Width
3/8”
22”
260A
Swep Width along Bottom Edge
38”
23 1/2”
310A
SlV Length fr CBN,Short -Set -in/Dropped Shoulder
1/2”
12 3/4”
370
Armhole Width along Edge -Dropped Shoulder
1/4”
8”
942
Armhole Hem Height
1/8”
1/2”
291
Bottom Hem Height
1/8”
1/2”
121
Neck Width to Edge
1/4”
8 3/4”
130
Front Neck Drop to Split Bottom Edge -Chest
1/4”
7 1/8”
425
Back Neck Drop to Edge -High
1/4”
1”
280
Neckband Height at CB
1/8”
1/4”
281
Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - A/H
1/8”
1/4”
283
Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - Neck
1/8”
1/4”
283
Shoulder Slope @ REFERENCE POING
0
7/8”
980
Shoulder Slope
0
3 1/4”
915
Minimum Neck Opening
0
24”
910
Belt Length
3/4”
60”
916
Belt Length
1/8”
1/4”
928
Shirttail Height at Back
1/4”
0
Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1
Sample 1
Revised Spec
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93101025
TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 60
Date Folder Modified
93101025 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1
Date Folder Modified
Class
Sub - Class
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses
10-12 Stitches per inch
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses
Neckband-other,
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses
10 11 12
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
15 16
Armhole - Pressing Sleeve - Type
Kimono
Sleeve - Hem
Bend back, overlock -bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing
19 20 21
1/2”
BODY SEAMS KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses Center Back Seams
Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back Mock safety stitch
4 thread w/Single needle chainstitch
WAIST
17 18
(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape
Armhole
13 14
Mock Safety
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE
8 9
Pull on
SHOULDER & YOKE
6 7
2 ply self, edge on fold,cut on cross grain, Overlock to neck edge. 1/16” edgestitch on body with seam press to body
OPENING
4 5
Details
COLLAR & NECK
2 3
Feature
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Drawstring Placement Full drawstring Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Drawstring Finish Clean finish ends Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, WAIST Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Shirt type -vertical
Tunnel through buttonholes ends clean finish inside cord inside wasit casing of self fabric -cross cut out casing. Edges overlocked. Casing is topstitched thru to face spaced 1/2” apart. BH located at CF casing spaced 1 1/2” apart. PAGE - 61
93101025 1st Fit comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
FIT COMMENTS: 1. KEEP PROPORTION FOR BODY LENGTH AS 1st PROTO . 2, Underarm too low, Raise underarm 1/2” and raise shoulder slop 1/4” (shoulder slop will reduce 1/4”) 3. Re underam slv/chest width -fill in 1/8” for less severse curve at underarm. 4. RE neckline: Maintain nice shape while raiseing from neck depth 1/4”. 5. Bring all points of measure to requested specs.
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93101025 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
POM
Description
Tol (-/+)
S
100
Back Length HPS fold
1/2”
30”
200
Across Shoulder - Reference Point
3/8”
15”
200A
Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder
3/8”
23 1/4”
210A
Chest Width 1” blow A/H
3/8”
19 1/4”
140
Blouson Waist placement blw HPS
1/4”
21 1/2”
225A
Waist Width
3/8”
22”
260A
Swep Width along Bottom Edge
38”
23 1/2”
310A
SlV Length fr CBN,Short -Set -in/Dropped Shoulder
1/2”
12 3/4”
370
Armhole Width along Edge -Dropped Shoulder
1/4”
8”
942
Armhole Hem Height
1/8”
1/2”
291
Bottom Hem Height
1/8”
1/2”
121
Neck Width to Edge
1/4”
8 3/4”
130
Front Neck Drop to Split Bottom Edge -Chest
1/4”
7 1/8”
425
Back Neck Drop to Edge -High
1/4”
1”
280
Neckband Height at CB
1/8”
1/4”
281
Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - A/H
1/8”
1/4”
283
Shoulder Seam Forward Fold - Neck
1/8”
1/4”
283
Shoulder Slope @ REFERENCE POING
0
7/8”
980
Shoulder Slope
0
3 1/4”
915
Minimum Neck Opening
0
24”
910
Belt Length
3/4”
60”
916
Belt Length
1/8”
1/4”
928
Shirttail Height at Back
1/4”
0
Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1
Sample 1
Revised Spec
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93101011
TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 64
Date Folder Modified
93101011 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1
Date Folder Modified
Class
Sub - Class
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses
4 5
10-12 Stitches per inch
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses Knit -Shirts, jackets, Outerwear, Dresses Knit- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
CUTTING DIRECTION Lapel/ Hood Neck
NAP DOWN 2 Piece self hood -overlock neck edge, attach hood to neck seam Hood lined edge to edge w/DTM jersey Cover back neck seam w/3/8” DTM crosscut jersey binding. Bendback ends to cleanfinish. SN chainstitch.
OPENING
6 7
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses
Pull on
SHOULDER
8 9
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses
Mock Safety
12 13 14
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Armhole Armhole - Pressing
Mock safety (4 -thread) - closed
Sleeve - Type
Dolma
Sleeve - Hem
Bend back, Coverstitch - Bottom coverstitch, 1/4” spacing.
BODY SEAMS
15 16 17
KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses
20 21 22
Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back
POCKET & SLITS/VENTS/BTTM HEM
18 19
(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE
10 11
Details
COLLAR & NECK & CUTTING DIRECTION
2 3
Feature
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
ON SEAM POCKET BAG
Front Princess seams - Pocket has step Interface opening, backstitch. Bartack Opening. DTM jersey, Overlock edges, Catch bttm of bag in hem.
Reinforcement/Bart- Bartack Pocket Openings ack Drawstring Placement Full drawstring - Tunnel through buttonholes spaced 3 1/4” apart on hood neck opening. 1/4” DTM jersey sapaghetti.
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93101011 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Fit Comments: * Reduce across shoulder measurement to 15" * Above corrections reduces shoulder slope. Will advise after next sample * Make shoulder seam forward 1/2" at neck and 3/4" at AH * Reduce neck width to 6 3/4" * Reduce chest to 22" * Reduce sweep to 22" * Reduce front seams apart at hem to 17" * Remove from body, style will have side panel * Add a horizontal seam 1 1/2" below AH curve. Incorporate dart shaping into seam- see new sketch * Remove outside seam on sleeve- slv will be 1 piece * Underarm curve is too sharp, fill in to be more gentle * Reduce width at elbow blending to 0 at muscle and slv opening * Trim 1" from CF hood opening blending to 0 at sides- see photo * Bring drawstring length back to spec * Make sure coverstitching encloses raw edge on hems, sample has about 1/8" raw edge visible in places * Bring all measurements back to spe
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93101011 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
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93101013
TECH PACK IN KNIT Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 68
Date Folder Modified
93101011 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1
Date Folder Modified
Class
Sub - Class
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Stitch Length Outerwear, Dresses
4 5
10-12 Stitches per inch
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, BUTTON Outerwear, Dresses Knit -Shirts, jackets, Collar Outerwear, Dresses Knit- Shirts, Jackets, Neck Outerwear, Dresses
Shirt Type, 3 - 36L Shawl Colar construction, 2 ply -self Back neck - Overlock to Collar. Use clear plastic tape to prevent stretching. Cleanfinish w/ 1/4” self binding. 1/4” bendback to cleanfinish ends of binding.
OPENING
6 7 8 9 9
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Opening Type Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, PLACKET Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Button Spacing Outerwear, Dresses
Pull on
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Shoulder Outerwear, Dresses
Mock Safety
Self placket attached - Fuse, Clean finish at hem edge Spacing - 2nd button is 3.5” from 1st. All other buttons spaced evenly apart BUTTON SPACING MUST GRADE ACCORDINGLY FOR ALL SIZES.
12 13 14
KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses KNIT - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Armhole
Mock safery stitch (4 stitch) - closed
Armhole - Pressing
Press Towards Sleeve
Sleeve - Type
1 Piece Sleeve
Sleeve - Hem
Bend back, Coverstitch - Bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing. 3/4” Set Sleeve first - Then close side seam & underam seam all in one
BODY SEAMS
15 16 17
(4 thread) Reinforce with polyurethane tape
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE
10 11
Details
COLLAR & NECK & CUTTING DIRECTION
2 3
Feature
KNIT-Shirts, Jackets, BODY SEAMS Outerwear, Dresses KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Side Seams Outerwear, Dresses
Mock safety stitch - 4 thread - Closed Press towards back
POCKET & SLITS/VENTS/BTTM HEM
18 19
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Patch - Hip Outerwear, Dresses
20
KNIT -Shirts, Jackets, Bottom Hem Outerwear, Dresses
1 Each side front -self -Top apply. Merrow, 1” bendback, SN at top edge. Reinforce top corners. Pocket has 1” of added slouch and is slightly rounded at btm corners. Fuse Opening. Bend back - bottom coverstitch, 1/8” spacing, 3/4”
PAGE - 69
93101013 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Fit Comments: * Bring neck width back to spec * Collar pulls around nk. Outer edge of collar is too short. Add 1/4” at CB top blending to 0 at nk- see photo * Fusible used has no give. Use lightweight knit fusible * Raise bk nk drop to 3/4” * Reduce across shoulder to 14 1/2 * Reduce across back to 14, & across frt to 13 * Shift front nk width out 1/4”- see photo * Fill in lower frt Ah curve 1/8”- see photo * Scoop lower bk AH curve 1/8” * Frt SS in chest area does not match back. Straighten to remove curve- see photo * Increase sweep 3/4” blending to 0 at chest, waist will also increase. Keep shape smooth * Shift sleeve cap width 1/4” evely toward back. Back cap width will be bigger than frt * Make sure that underarms on sleeve is not too scooped * Reduce sleeve length to 31 1/2” * Increase sweep 3/4” blending to 0 at chest, waist will also increase. Keep shape smooth * Ok to keep fusible in pocket opening but must use knit fusible * Increase topstitch length to 8 spi. Esp stitches on pocket are too tiny * Bring all measurements back to spec
PAGE - 70
93101013 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Slim fit on shoulders, increase sweep width blending to 0 at chest
Shift frt neck width out 1/4” blend to fill in underarm curve 1/8”
Collar pulls around neck when folded. Add 1/4” to outer edge of collar bending to 0” at neck.
Staighten frt SS removing curves. Should be same shape as back SS for balance. PAGE - 71
93101017
TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 72
Date Folder Modified
93101017 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
#
Date Folder Modified
Class
1
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
2
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Sub - Class Stitch Length
10 Stitches per inch
COLLAR & NECK WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Neck
OPENING
4 5
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Opening Type
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Shoulder
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE
8 10 11 12
WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Armhole - Pressing
Press towards sleeve
Sleeve - Type
2 Piece Sleeve
Sleeve Finish
15
WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
BODY SEAMS Side Seams
18 19
Mock safety stitch(4 thread)- Closed Press towards back
BACK VENT & LINING
16 17
1” bend back and Apply sleeve edge to lining
BODY SEAMS
13 14
Pull - on
SHOULDER & YOKE
6 7
Details
Overlock
2 3
Feature
WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Oterwear
BACK VENT
CB VENT w/ angled stich @ top 1 1/2”
LINING
1 Pleats at back neck facing to nothing at hem, Full lining sewn to facings and into sleeve and hem bands. Pockets not lined.
FUSE
Bottom Collar/ front facing /back facing/ Pocket
PAGE - 73
93101017 Construstion Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
3/4” Single wel height w/ 1/2” angled up
1/4” besom welt on top of flap Flap height included welt: 2 1/8”
PAGE - 74
CB VENT w/ angled stitch @top 1 1/2”
93101017 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
POM 100
Date Folder Modified
Description
Tol (-/+)
S
Back Length HPS fold
1/2”
28”
Front Length HPS fold
1/2”
29 1/2”
200
Across Shoulder
3/8”
15”
200A
Across Shoulder
3/8”
210A
Chest Width 1” blow A/H
3/8”
17 3/4”
140
Waist placement from HPS
1/4”
14 1/2”
225A
Waist Width
3/8”
17”
260A
Sweep Width (Stright)
38”
21 3/4”
310A
SlV Length fr Armhole
1/2”
25 1/2”
370
Armhole Width along Edge
1/4”
942
Muscle Width (1” blw A/H)
1/8”
6 1/8”
291
Sleeve Opening
1/8”
5 1/2”
130
Collar Point
1 1/4”
425
Collar Height at CB
2 3/8”
280
Collar Stand Height at CB
1 1/8”
121
Lapel Point
1/4”
1 1/4”
915
Neck Width
0
7 1/2”
130
Front Neck Drop to Point
1/4”
7 1/8”
425
Back Neck Drop to Edge
1/4”
1/2”
Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1
Sample 1
Revised Spec
PAGE - 75
93101030
TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall
Item Type
Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 76
Date Folder Modified
93101030 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1
Date Folder Modified
Class WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Sub - Class Stitch Length
2 3
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Neck BAND
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Opening Type
10 11 12 14 15 16
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Shoulder
19
Zipper On
2” Shoulder Forward
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE & FRONT WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Armhole CF ZIPPER
ZIPPER TAPE IS COVERED W/ ZIPPER TEETH IS EXPOSED
Sleeve - Type
2 PIECE SLEEVES
Sleeve - Hem
2” DTM RIB, APPLY TO SLEEVE
WOVEN-Shirts, Jack- FRONT OPENING ets, Outerwear WOVEN -Shirts, Side Seams Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
3/8” SN TOP STITCH cf CF
WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerware, Dresses
SINGLE BESOM PKT, EDGE STITCH AROUND PKT. 1/4” BARTACK @ EACH END OF OPENING
17 18
1/4” SN TOP STITCH unless otherwise indicated. Neck Collar Height (DTM RIB)@ CB: 1 1/2”
SHOULDER & YOKE
8 9
10 Stitches per inch
OPENING
6 7
Details
COLLAR & NECK
4 5
Feature
FRONT POCKET
Press towards back
Center Back Seams POCKET
PAGE - 77
93101030 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
FIT COMMENTS: 1. All stitching must be straight and even. 2. Overall thread tension must be adjusted properly to avoid puckering. 3. Garment must be cut on straight grain. 4. Zippers/Snaps/Buttons/Toggles etc. must be clean width no frayed exposed ends and evenly spaced. 5. Buttons should be proper secured. Outerwear and Jackets should use button shank wrapping machines to make the shank of button secure width proper elastic thread. 6. Neckline must be symmetrical side to side. 7. Must clip all loose thread ends. 8. The Cover- Stitching must enclose all rass edges at lining. 9. No over pressing and avoid any pressing maks in all garments. 10. Ease Sleeve Cap Evenly. 11. Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches must align. 12. Ease amount given to sleeve cap can be more or less. 13. Sleeve should be two pieces sleeves unless otherwise specified. 14. Tape at Neckline, shoulder and Armhole. 15. Seams Press Open.
PAGE - 78
93101030 SPECIFICATION Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
POM
Date Folder Modified
Description
Tol (-/+)
S
100
Back Length HPS fold
1/2”
27 1/4”
100A
Front Length HPS fold
1/2”
28”
200
Across Shoulder - 3PT
3/8”
19”
200A
Across Shoulder- Dropped Shoulder
3/8”
210A
Chest Width 1” blow A/H
3/8”
47”
140
Across Front Width 7” blw HPS
1/4”
16 3/4”
225A
Across Back Width 7” blw HPS
3/8”
18”
210
Shoulder Slope
0
2 1/4”
260A
Sweep Width - Relaxed
3/8”
37 1/2””
260
sweep Width - Stretched
310A
SlV Length fr CBN
1/2”
36”
370
Armhole depth
1/4”
11 1/2”
371
Muscle wdith(1” blw)
942
Elbow 9” down Armhole
1/8”
14 1/2”
291
Bottom Hem Height
1/8”
2 1/4”
121
Neck Collar Height @ CB
1/4”
2 1/4”
130
Cuff Opening Stretched
1/4”
11 1/2”
425
Cuff Opening Relaxed
1/4”
8 1/2”
280
Cuff Height
1/8”
2 1/4”
281
Neck Width(HPS to HPS)
1/8”
6 3/4”
283
Front Neck Drop(from HPS)
1/8”
4 1/4”
283
Back Neck Drop
0
1/2”
980
Collar Length(Outer edge Curved)
0
17 1/2”
915
CB Collar Height(not incl stand)
0
1 1/2”
Vender Vender Sample 1 Delta 1
Sample 1
Revised Spec
45”
16 1/2”
PAGE - 79
93101040
TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 80
Date Folder Modified
93101040 Construction Details Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
# 1
Date Folder Modified
Class WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Sub - Class Stitch Length
2 3
Feature 8 -9 Stitches per inch COLLAR & NECK
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Neck BAND
OPENING
4 5
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Opening Type
Zipper On
SHOULDER & YOKE
6 7
Details
WOVEN - Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Shoulder Seam
2” Shoulder Forward
ARMHOLE & SLEEVE & FRONT
8 Armhole Pressing
11
WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
PLACKET
1 1/2” wide 2 ply placket, w/edge stitch on body, Clean finish around edge , hidden snaps
12
WOVEN- Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear
Sleeve TYPE
2 PIECE
14
WOVEN-Shirts, Jack- BOTTOM HEM ets, Outerwear
SEAMED, 1 1/2” SELF FACING AND SET ON LINING
15
WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
Press towards back
9 10
Toward Sleeve
CF ZIPPER
Side Seams
16
Center Back Seams
17
18 19
WOVEN -Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses WOVEN-Shirts, Jackets, Outerwear, Dresses
FRONT POCKET
PAGE - 81
93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Bring all Measurements back to spec & follow Revised spec/ Attached pic for next sample First of all, Pls Check both Design and Construction Details Page before start pattern making.
FIT COMMENTs: NOT APVD, SEND PP SAMPLE WITH BLW CHANGES ASAP.
WORKMANSHIP:
1. PLS USE CFMED RIB QUILTY WAS USED FOR PROTO SAMPLE 2. REDUCE INSIDE PKT DEPTH AS PIC 3. SEE DROPPED SHOULDER EDGE. YOU MUST FIX SLV CAP ALONG 6. NECKLINE MUST BE SYMMETRICAL SIDE TO SIDE. 7. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 9. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 10. WAIST BELT IS BENDED AS BOW. SO, CUT AND SEW TOP AND BTTM OF BELT AND ADD INTERFACING. 11. REMOVE WOVON LOGO FLAG FROM PRINCESS SEAM AND SEE UPDATED SKETCH PAGE 12.BTTM HEM CONSTRUCTION IS CHANGED TO “CUT AND SEW”, SEAMED AND 1 1/2” SELF FACING AND SET ON LINING 9. REDUCE BELT L/H TO 42 1/2”. 4. PLS CHECK NECK RIB L/H AND NECKLINE L/H. NECK TRIM IS WAVING. 5. OVERALL THREAD TENTION MUST BE ADJUSTED PROPERLY TO AVOID PUKERING AND PULLING ON BODY
SPEC,FIT:
1. WAIST SEAM @CF IS HIKING. SO, PLS ADD 1/4~3/8” @CF BLENDING 0” SIDE JUST IN TOP PANEL. SEE REF PIC. 2. PLS SUGGEST GIVEN SPEC AFTER CORRECTION A/H SHAPE AS PIC. 3. WAIST WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL. 4. INCREASE SLV L/H TO 23” 5. INCREASE FRONT PKT OPENING WIDTH TO FROM 6 1/4” TO 6 1/2” 6. MUST REVIEW WITH YOUR KEEPING SAMPLE FOR SLV SHAPE. 7. MAKE MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE AND THEN BALANCE BY LOWER CAP HEIGHT 1/2~ 1” AS PIC. 8. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL. ***MUST
PAGE - 82
93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
PAGE - 83
93101030 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 84
Date Folder Modified
93101010 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
PAGE - 85
93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 86
Date Folder Modified
93101040 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
PAGE - 87
93101050
TECH PACK IN WOVEN Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
Bring all Measurements back to spec & follow Revised spec/ Attached pic for next samples First of all, Pls Check both Design and Construction Details Page before start pattern making.
FIT COMMENTs
NOT APVD, SEND PP SAMPLE WITH BLW CHANGES ASAP. WORKMANSHIP: 1. PLS USE CFMED RIB QUILTY WAS USED FOR PROTO SAMPLE 2. REDUCE INSIDE PKT DEPTH AS PIC 3. SEE DROPPED SHOULDER EDGE. YOU MUST FIX SLV CAP ALONG 5. NECKLINE MUST BE SYMMETRICAL SIDE TO SIDE. 6. SAMPLE IS HIKING @CF AND STRETED OUT @ BTTM. PLS IMPROVE FOR PRODUCTION. 7. START SHIRRING 2 1/2” FROM A/H SEAM, 3” FROM BTTM EDGE. SAMPLE IS SPREAD OUT THAN PTTN SPEC. 10. CF ZIPPER- GUNMETAL#8 1WAY, SLV ZIPPER- GUNMETAL #5 AND SNAP ON SLV IS GUNMETAL. 3. PLS CHECK NECK RIB L/H AND NECKLINE L/H. NECK TRIM IS WAVING. 4. OVERALL THREAD TENTION MUST BE ADJUSTED PROPERLY TO AVOID PUKERING AND PULLING ON BODY SPEC,FIT: 1. SHOULDER WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL 2. PLS SUGGEST GIVEN SPEC AFTER CORRECTION A/H SHAPE AS PIC. 3. WAIST WIDTH IS REVISED AS SPL. 4. INCREASE SLV L/H TO 23” 5. INCREASE FRONT PKT OPENING WIDTH TO FROM 6 1/4” TO 6 1/2” 6. MUST REVIEW WITH YOUR KEEPING SAMPLE FOR SLV SHAPE. 7. MAKE MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE AND THEN BALANCE BY LOWER CAP HEIGHT 1/2~ 1” AS PIC. 8. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL. 11. INSERT HANGER LOOP(LOGO WOVEN TAPE) INTO NECK SEAM AS UPDATED SKETCH PAGE AND ADD MAIN LABEL.
PAGE - 88
93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
PAGE - 89
93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
PAGE - 90
Date Folder Modified
93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
**THIS ONE IS DROPPED SHOULDER STYLE, SO YOU HAVE TO MAKE A MORE GENTLE CURVED A/H SHAPE, SEE BLW A/H SHAPE. AND THEN, ADJUST MUSCLE SPEC AFTER CORRECTION AS BLW AND SUGGEST FRONT/ BACK ACROSS SPEC!!
PAGE - 91
93101050 1st Fit Comments Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
Date Folder Modified
DO NOT FOLLOW ANY CURCED A/H SHAPE SHOWN BLW, YOU HAVE TO BALANCE AND ADJUST WITH A/H(BODY)
EXTEND SLV OPENING@ CUFF SEAM FROM UNDERARM NATUALLY
PAGE - 92
G - SPEC Missy, Petite, Womens & Tall Item Type Knit Tops Casual Knit Date Folder Created FALL 2017
POM
Date Folder Modified
Description
Tol(-/+)
XS
S
M
L
XL
100
Front Length from HPS
1/2”
26 1/2”
27”
27 1/2/”
28”
28 1/2”
200
CB Length
1/2”
26”
26 1/2”
27”
27 1/2”
28”
206
Chest-1” below armhole
1/2”
40 1/2”
42 1/2”
44 1/2”
47”
49 1/2”
203
Sweep (relaxed)
1/2”
35 1/2”
37 1/2”
39 1/2”
42”
44 1/2”
210A Sweep (extended)
1/2”
38 1/2”
40 1/2”
42 1/2”
45”
47 1/2”
124
Bottom hem height
1/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
124
Across Front(6” down from HPS)
1/4”
15 1/2”
16”
16 1/2”
17 1/4”
18”
140
Across Back (5 1/2” down fr CB NK)
1/4”
16 1/2”
17”
17 1/2”
18 1/4”
19”
260A Acoss Shoulder
1/4”
17 1/2”
18”
18 1/2”
19 1/4”
20”
325
CB Sleeve length (3 pt)
1/4”
35 3/4”
36 1/4”
36 3/4”
37 1/2”
38 1/4”
310
Armhole (curved)
1/4”
21 1/2”
22 1/4”
23”
24”
25”
285A Muscle (1” below)
1/4”
16”
16 1/2”
17”
17 3/4”
18 1/2”
360A Elbow (@ 8 1/2” from A/H)
1/8”
14”
14 3/8”
14 3/4”
15 1/4”
15 3/4”
200
1/4”
12”
12 1/4”
12 1/2”
12 3/4”
13”
291A Sleeve Opening
1/4”
8 1/2”
8 3/4”
9”
9 1/4”
9 1/2”
280
Sleeve Hem Height
1/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
281
Forward Shoulder
1/8”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
283
Shoulder Slope
1/8”
2”
2”
2”
2”
2”
980
Neck Width(HPS to HPS)
1/4”
6 3/4”
7”
7 1/4”
7 1/2”
7 3/4”
400
Front neck drop from HPS
1/4”
3 8/7”
4”
4 1/8”
4 1/4”
4 3/8”
291A Back neck drop
1/4”
3/4”
3/4”
3/4”
3/4”
3/4”
325
Top Collar edge Circ(inc, CF Zipper)
1/8”
18”
18 1/2”
19”
19 1/2”
20”
327
Neck Circumference(inc. CF Zipper)
1/8”
19 1/2”
20”
20 1/2”
21”
21 1/2”
400
Collar Height
1/8”
1 3/4”
1 3/4”
1 3/4”
1 3/4”
1 3/4”
415
Hip PKT Length
1/8”
7”
7 1/4”
7 1/4”
7 1/2”
7 1/2”
416
Hip PKT Spread(TOP-Across CF)
1/8”
11 1/2”
12”
12 1/2”
13 1/4”
14”
417
Hip PKT Soread(btm- Across CF)
1/8”
14”
14 1/2”
15”
15 3/4”
16 1/2”
418
Hip PKT Placementfrom Hem
1/4”
2 3/4”
2 7/8”
3”
3 1/8”
3 1/4”
500
Hood Height @ CF
1/4”
14 3/4”
14 3/4”
14 3/4”
14 3/4”
14 3/4”
501
Hood Width @ 8” from CB Neck
1/4”
11”
11”
11”
11”
11 1/4”
Foream Circ @ Cuff Seam
PAGE - 93
SKY PROGRAM - PO
PAGE - 94
Thank you for reading my digital portfolio! I appreciate your time and I will be looking forwarding to hearing from you.
Contact me anytime at: gabion2001@gmail.com ANNA LEE
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