#00
MOODBOARD is an international quarterly niche magazine, based in Rome for a moment. Each issue is dedicated to the connection between fashion and specific subjects of inspiration. A choice of second is always based on recent tendencies, yet staying timeless. The #00 issue is about Fashion and Sport. This two arguments, so different from each other, have inspired a bunch of people to work on the issue. Graphic design, photography, art, fashion, semiotic comparisons and contrasts, short information blocks, inspiring music and more for you, dear designers, photographers, stylists, art directors and just fashion-interested people. Most of the pages are tearable, giving an opportunity to personalize the information. Tear, cut, mix, glue your favorite pages, interact with the magazine as much as possible.
ROME, ITALY 2013
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WHO IS WHO
editor’s letter
#00 cover Sport Photography: Mike Thomson
fashion Photography, production and styling:
Anna Shisterova
MODEL:
Daria Alexandrova Body: La Perla Lipstick: Chanel
Printed in Rome, Italy Produced by:
Anna Shisterova
anna.shisterova@gmail.com +393891377676 +79162422551
Produced within: IED Roma Via Giovanni Branca,122 00181
editor Anna Shisterova GRAPHIC ASSISTANTS: Matteo Tiberi Viviana Proietti MUSIC DEPARTMENT Luca Marinucci FILM DEPARTMENT Nadia D’Ippolito SPECIAL THANKS TO: Misha Bo Alejandro Palomares Marco Antonio Marra Sabrina Polanco Pifebo Vintage Shop Carla Barbati Alla Leonova Ksenia Shabanova Moskaliov Mikhail Harmadgeva Olga Shisterov Sergey
bibliography “Questione di stile” Cally Blackman “Sport e stile” Maria Canella, Sergio Giuntini, Marco Turinetto “Fashion Brands” Mark Tungate
What do editors usually write here? Oh, well, they always have something to say. So do I. Somehow people of nowadays have been divided into two warring parts: first accept only new technology, saying that downloading a magazine or a newspaper is so much easier, cheaper, lighter and even eco-free. Second are still finding quite romantic having posters on the wall, the smell of fresh printed book or a stack of magazines on the floor instead of bedstand (I have one, by the way). Some say everything should be balanced, which sounds quite adequate, but still, even trying hard sometimes we lose that feeling of something real, like a paper, that you can touch, and measure it’s grammage, density. When we want to get inspired we use blogs, picture search web sites, e-magazines. We would rather open Photoshop to do a moodboard, no one actually does collages anymore. That’s what made me sad one day. I was missing a real interaction with a publication, which is hardly reachable without being cheesy or “big”. So for this project I had two very different but very important goals: support printed publications and inspire YOU. What do I mean by inspire? I mean to create a special atmosphere, surround you with creativity in different spheres: visual, aural and ideational. I had so much fun creating the MOODBOARD, so I hope you will have fun watching, reading and ripping it.
“Who’s who in contemporary fashion” Sportswear International, Klaus N. Hang
Anna Shisterova
“L’eta d’oro degli sport invernali” Franck Ferrand
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CONTENTS
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Listen/
Playlist from Luca Marinucci
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Third breath/
Absorb/
sovietic underground situation
Inspiration pages
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Re:ading/
Emancipation through sport clothes, elegance on the court and more
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WATCH/ Cinema review
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CLICK POINT/
Editorials
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INDEX/
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Soft, electric beats in edition 2.36 of Audiosincretismi. Created by Luca Marinucci, specially for MOODBOARD.
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AUDIOSINCRETISMI X
//tracklist 2.36 //01.college - revelation //02.a gap between - orange horizon //03.casa del mirto - faces //04.washed out - new theory //05.lord raja - dipteres pt.2 //06.slow magic - on yr side //07.sango - married at 22 //08.bibio - à tout à l’heure //09.sohn - the wheel //10.mndsgn - almostdecent //11.toro y moi - say that //12.mount kimbie - made to stray
“Le plongeur du pont D’Iena” 1945, by Robert Doisneau
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absorb/
V. Pshenichnikov, 1927
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Some semiotic food for your eyes and immagination.
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CREDITS “angel and josh” by andre-j / Abbey Lee Kershaw by Liz Collins for Numero
“Gymnasts of USSR” by D.D. Gilinsky / Colored wool
Alexander Rodchenko / Sport Junkies. Alexander wang and Rag&Bone for schwarzkopf professional
RE:ADING MATERIAL
Issey Miyake pleats / Harold Eugene Edgerton
Jens Ullrich / Nathaniel Goldberg
Sam a Harris / Jacques Henri Lartigue
Dress; Jonathan Saunders for Escada Sport / Titina Maselli
George Hoyningen Hene / Harold Eugene Edgerton
MariaClara Bosloco at Givenchy 2013 show / Vogue cover illustrated by eduardo garcia benito
George Hoyningen Hene / Dior Homme campaign 2010
Villemot / Marie Katrantzou, Celine, Valentino, Ronaldo Fraga
Charis Tsevis / Sweaters by: Alexander Wang, Sportmax
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Research, facts and little historical moments of how fashion influensed sport and vice versa
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COMMITMENT OVER NATURAL GIFTS
A ma z i n g 2 0 ’ s
I n tro At all times, women were seeking for support: in each other, men, society... Men are often too busy, society is still divided by versatile points of view. There should have been something they could rely on during difficult times. And they found it. United by a simple wish of equality, they found sport: an activity that accepted them as they are, simplifying their clothes and changing their lifestyles, once and forever. It may have started with Catherine de ‘Medici, as she was the first woman in history, who used pants for horse riding. Later, the history of women’s sport mainly depended on a process of transformation that has affected not only scenario, but also provoked serious changes in human body: the progressive dressing/undressing, the emergence of a concept of physicality, which should or should not be denuded according to canons, behaviours and moral judgements. By breaking taboos, a woman has struggled across the centuries against prejudices and stereotypes of position in society and other predetermined roles. They say it is rooted in the times of Adam and Eve, the reason of a further subordination of women. Being famous for her stable role of mother, Eve once refused any growth outside the family. It took a while to any modification to take place.
Photo: Alexander Rodchenko, 1925
It all started to change seriously with a feminist movement in 1921, which chose sport as one of its most important politics. The slogan sounded like: «Moral and physical healthy being, without fear of a given responsibility, ready to assert rights in every field, without losing any grace or charm.» An athletic woman has discovered the basis and a possibility of her body, which now was aimed not only for a reproduction of species, tied to traditions of a sacred nature of procreation. Conversely, she found a way to appoint alternative goals. Thereby, a woman’s body has found a completely different meaning together with a huge untapped potential. For the first time in history, instead of a neurotic, weak and defenceless element of society, constantly in need of protection and security, appears a strong, enduring and prosperous woman. People began doubting an axiom of a «natural» female mission. For a long time sport was extremely against fashion and vice versa. Unapproachable fashion, enclosing woman’s body in castles of lace, corsets and turnures, was creating no room for movement. Atrophied and ossified, women were ready to get free by signing petitions against corsets all around Europe. The main «war» though was between Britain, the birthplace of modern sport and France, the capital of fashion. On one hand, there were defenders of bourgeois morality, who saw corset as an object of privilege class, and an easy way for woman to attract a man. On the other hand there were «champions of health», who believed that a natural well-being is a synonym of beauty. The very fact that by the end of the 20th century, a T-shirt had more popularity in woman’s wardrobe, than a blouse or a dress leads us to a derivation: a sport revolution was accomplished successfully.
Finish gymnasts, 1912
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Ethel Larcome, Photo: Bob Thomas, 1912
go , girls ! In 1909, when Blanche Edwards-Pilliet published a petition against corsets, with a rise of significant figure of the century, an ancestress of modern free-dance Isadora Duncan; together they have managed to win Parisian society. The work of the last was inspiring not only for entire sport, theatre and dance world, she had enough of innovative ideas also for fashion designers. John Redfern, Paul Poiret and Gabrielle Chanel: these geniuses of style were literally thrilled by the new liberating movement in search of some fresh image for their creations. Later, they would be called inventors of lean silhouette, always crowned with undoubtedly short hair and edged with jersey. Obviously, all this sent a corset to the pages of history. The momentum of close relationship between sport, fashion and female image, has found its icon in Suzanne Lenglen. She was a French tennis player, unbeatable from 1919 to 1926, recognised as a first female athlete in history, and, in fact, the first woman to be trained on an equal basis with men. She wasn’t particularly beautiful, and despite a complicated personal life, remained always elegant and charming. Not only her appearance brought innovation and modernity to the world, ruled by aristocratism and conservatism, but also she brought glamour to the tennis court, collaborating with Jean Paou. She provoked, showing to the whole world how wonderfully an athletic woman can combine femininity and independence. It was Eileen
Isadora Duncan
Suzanne Lenglen
Fearnley-Whittingstall, though, who first dared to play stockingless in 1931. At the same time, after numerous tensions around pants being a part of women’s closet, especially with the movement of female cyclists, one other genius shouldn’t be left without attention. Varvara Stepanova, a part-time soviet artist and a wife of Alexander Rodchenko. Not only she expressed futurism in her artwork, she also created very modern patterns of jumpsuits, inspired by Thayaht, and modified according to times and revolutionary spirit. Already later, in 1965, there was Lea Pericoli to follow the lead of Lenglen. During her carrier, besides some wins, she earned herself and adage: «her kick is chic», by dint of clothes, specially created for her by Teddy Tinling. Elegance, beauty and competitive spirit; she had it all! As an Italian politician Anna Paola Concia once said: «All athletes are beautiful. It is in their action, the fair competition with themselves, that is sublime, admirable, extraordinary. The stereotype doesn’t win, beauty doesn’t count. Sport is the triumph of commitment over natural gifts. It is triumph of the brain, motivation and untiring effort. Only merit wins, and it is true for men as well as women»
Lea Pericoli
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Varvara Stepanova
Photo: Alexander Rodchenko, 1930
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T ime c h a n ges From the moment Maria Sharapova walked onto the field wearing a little black dress, full of beated cristals, yet with a Nike swoosh on it, the world of tennis seemed to be changed for ever. How, when and why sport fashion changed- some interesting facts to go. A century ago, when sportive clothes were echoing the fashion of that time, especially in tennis, sportsmen were required to follow some quite uncomfortable rules. Poor men, who were obliged to wear full lenght pants at Wimbeldon up until 1946. British Football Association, conversely, was so concerned about shorts of players getting shorter, that in 1904 introduced a rule about shorts, that should cover knees. Not only men were tied with ropes of rules- around 1860s also women were forced to cover their legs with full-lenght skirts, made of heavy fabrics and use bustles, wool and even fur. Time has changed everything. From the selection of fabric up to colour choise. The first color that comes to your mind when you think of tennisis white. The reason is quite simple though- sweat. White color in sportive fabric prevents the visibility of sweat during the game. However, nowadays technologically advanced cloth wick sweat away, giving an opportunity to sportsmen to use a huge variety of colors
Tennis players, 1910
not only for tennis, but for the rest of games as well. Durable fabrics like polyester, nylon and spandex keeps athletes cool. Most importantly the clothes for sport are finally built in order to keep sportsmen comfortable, and not anymore fashionable. There are certainly exceptions, like Maria Sharapova, who, aside from being a four times winner of Big Slam, is trying to stay femminine and appealing. A big fan of fashion icons from the past, like Audrey Hepburn, she doesn’t hide her attempts to charm the audience.
Tennis player, 1940
Maria Sharapova, 2007
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F as h io n a n d sport fusio n q ui n tesse n ce or a fe n ome n o n of sportswear . Nowadays, fashion needs sport and sport needs fashion. The wave of sportswear covers more people daily. Well, no wonder. In an increasingly casual world, how many people wear couture? This type of clothing has long been a subject of profound research, a reliance of global marketing, a symbol of a new life style and ultimately the engine of urban fashion update, rather battered by time, though. Up to this point, clothes for sport remained poorly defined, as sport is considered as a form of entertainment, a game which didn’t have any special equipment created. Each one was improvising relieing to their own taste, adapting everyday clothes. With sportswer, it happened conversely. Designers started to borrow sportive sillhouettes to create ready-to-wear collections.
Les Plus Dores Team
Azzedine Alaia
The birthplace of modern sportswear is considered to be the UK. First attempts to create any special equipment associated with the most ancient games, such as horseback riding and hunting. Redingote was popular since the beginning of the XVIII century as a defense against bad weather during the long horse riding days. This piece of clothing had taken the path of development, similar to the history of many other sportive pieces, invented in the early XIX century: it will be «stolen» by citizens later to enter in their everyday wardrobe, becoming almost a bourgeois uniform of XIX century. Across the continent, in America, a mixture with sportswear with traditional american one, got it’s trend in late 30th, when the first «College Shop» was open, embodying the ideal of democracy and morality of American society. Later, this shops will inspire students to develop their style, including sportive clothes to give a start to a new, more free, casual style. Alexander Wang, 2013 Bridgewater College
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watch Way up from old rounders, tennis, cycling and racing, Isadora Duncan dancing, who was praising the beauty of human’s body, to the modern fitness, XIX and XX centuries were marked by the accession of a true sport cult. Over time, becoming even more democratic and practical, it started diclaring the rules of comfort and maximum freedom of movement, tending to the creation of a special wardrobe that will correspond to its specification. Sportswear becomes some kind of uniform, which is originally designed only for exercise seems to be a lot far away from urban elegance or grace. And yet, from the early 20s to nowadays the eternal rules of fashion are trying to get into this isolated world. Many designers also like the challenge of taking a common sports item and playing with its aesthetics. The best partnerships have been those that have played to each other’s strengths.
Polo Ralph Lauren for Wimbelbon Lawn Tennis Club, Yohji Yamamoto/ Y3/ Adidas, Alexander McQueen and Puma Black Label. This three storical partnerships have made the whole world proud and gave a new wave of successful collaborations, some of which are growing and developing until now.
Black and White, old and new, Modern and vintage. Overview from Amateur Film Critic Nadia D’ippolito
P E R I O D 52
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Chariots of Fire UK 1981 color 124m Director: Hugh Hudson Writer: Collin Welland Music: Vangelis Stars: Ben Cross, Ian Charleson, Nigel Haves, Cherly Campbell, Alice Krige, Ian Holm
Vangelis’s music leads the emotional rhythm of athletes and spectators during all the movie: from the coral image of the beach run, to the individual preparation and finally to the collective Olympic race. Individual and group are continuously merged by the crowded elegant scenes and the deformed time, marked by the characters. Movie’s images, playing between energetic movements and reflexive pictures, produce an homogenuos feeling that absorbs diversity. Sport absorbs inequalities and leads to memory who belives on it. The film is based on the real event of Olympic Games of 1924: following british team training and their competition in Paris.
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Peaceful Warrior USA 2006 color 120m Director: Victor Salva Writer: Dan Millman Stars: Scott Mechlowicz, Nick Nolte, Amy Smart, Paul Wesley, Ashton Holmes
Based on Dan Millman’s autobiographical novel the movie tells the sorty of a young promising athlet who is totally absorbed from sport competition and fame to forget the importance of living moments and life at all. Afeter a bad accident doctors tell him that he will not be able to partecipate in gymnastic competition, but whit the help of mind, an illusory chatacter Socrate, he start to find new way to regenerete soul and body. A movie about strenght of good thoughts and the importance of living every single moment with intence force. “The journey is what brings us happiness, not the destination!”
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OLYMPIA
Germany 1936-1938 first part :Fest der Völker - Olympia second part: Fest der Schönheit - Olympia’s Apotheosis w/b 222m director: Leni Riefenstahl; production: Walter Traut, Walter Grosskopf per Olympia-Film photography: Hans Ertl, Walter Frentz, Kurt Neubert, Willy Zielke, Hans Schneib, Wilfried Basse e other 38 operators; voices: Paul Laven, Rolf Wernicke, Henri Nannen, Johannes Pagels music: Herbert Windt.
Ancient Greek architecture appares from the dark, inanimate statues and animated statues, arms floating in a continuos movement around nude priestesses wich reanimate the sacred flame. The Olympic torch arrives in Berlin: now Olympic games can start. Olympia is the first Olympic documentary, realized by Leni Riefenstahl during Berlin games in 1936. The movie contains spectacular technical attentions and rappresents a precious document of times, video sport and many future cinema techniques. Two Olympic games: inside and out side the stadium. Rhythm, rituals and ceremonies marks rigid times for games, in crowded pictures of athlets and spectators. Rare individua shoots, exalt inchiefs of state, leaving space to a feeling of endless movement from physical movement, eye movement, historical movement to immaterial movement.
CLICK POINT
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Two capitals, one ambitious photographer, four amazing models and a bunch of passioned assistants for two absolutely not commercial photo shoots.
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Mar/Me CONCEPT & PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNA SHISTEROVA MODEL: SABRINA POLANCO STYLE: ALEJANDRO PALOMARES SPECIAL THANKS TO: PIFEBO VINTAGE SHOP
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On the left and this page: vintage T-shirtproprety of stylist, leggins H&M, socks Calzedonia, shoes Mango, skipping rope Nike
This page and four after: Top- property of photographer, vintage skirt Pifebo, socks Calzedonia, shoes Mango, vintage racketproperty of stylist.
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Top- property of photographer, leggins Pifebo, shoes Dolce Vita
On the left page: overall Pifebo, shoes Dolce&Gabbana. This page: Top Nike, shorts and socks H&M, shoes Dolce Vita, neckless- property of stylist.
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THIRD BREATH
CONCEPT & PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNA SHISTEROVA STYLE: ANNA SHISTEROVA MODELS: ALLA LEONOVA, DARYA ALEXANDROVA, YULIA SEMENOVA SPECIAL THANKS TO: PIFEBO VINTAGE SHOP, OLIMPIYSKIY SPORT CENTRE
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Page on the left, this page and four after: vintage overalls Pifebo
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Page on the left this page and next four: Alla is wearing a bra and panties MAS, Daria is wearing body La Perla
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INDEX ADIDAS
LES PLUS DORES
adidas.com
lpdnyc.com
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
MANGO
alexandermcqueen.com
mango.com
ALEXANDER WANG
MAS
alexanderwang.com
via dello statuto, 11, rome
AZZEDINE ALAIA
MARY KATRANTZOU
alaia.fr
marykatrantzou.com
BRIDGEWATER COLLEGE
NIKE
bridgwater.ac.uk
nike.com
CALZEDONIA
ORGANICONCRETE
calzedonia.com
organiconcrete.com
CĂŠLINE
OLYMPIYSKIY SPORTS CENTRE
celine.com
olimpik.ru
DIOR
PIFEBO
dior.com
pifebo.com
DOLCE VITA
PUMA
dolcevita.com
puma.com
DOLCE & GABBANA
RAG&BONE
dolcegabbana.com
rag-bone.com
ESCADA SPORT
RALPH LAUREN
escada,com
ralphlauren.com
H&M
RONALDO FRAGA
hm.com
ronaldofraga.com
givenchy
SPORTMAX
givenchy.com
sportmax.com
ISSEY MIYAKE
VALENTINO
isseymiyake.com
valentino.com
JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Y3
jonathan-saunders.com
y-3.com
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
LA PERLA
yohjiyamamoto.co.jp
laperla.com
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