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Fashion’s secret fl o rist

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Alexander McQueen

Comme des Garcons

Mathematics seams to be a different universe from fashion, but when it comes to design and the art of bricolage (= creation of a work from a diverse range of things) is certainly becomes a common discipline. In the following rather funny, than serious suggestions are made of two or more elements that resulted some of the autumn/winter looks and collections.

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Celine

Louise Gray

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THE GOOD, THE BAD and THE UGLY PRADA!

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Every season there is a frightening excitement before the Prada show. The fashion industry is bubbling in the tension of the unexpected coming. And at every show there is a shock at first, an antipathy towards the collection, which than is digested over the season with the help of fashion editorials and pr campaigns until everyone realizes that Prada is a genius and her vision is the future of fashion.

After more than a decade in the business, Muiccia Prada’s attitude towards fashion and trends seem to be getting clearer with every recent collection. She is making ugly cool and desirable. With the recently opened Elsa Schiaparelli and Muiccia Prada retrospective exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum the ‘ugly chic’ enters the museum space.

“I make ugly clothes from ugly material. Simply bad taste. But they end up looking good anyway.” Muiccia claims working with a colour or a fabric she doesn’t like, can give her the space to be intrigued and playful. Crochets, golf and cheap cotton are all elements that she doesn’t like, but reworked under her vision it all became hip and forwardlooking.

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Prada’s sister company Miu Miu sets a high bar as well, when it comes to eccentric styles. Especially the anatomic looking shoes in retro orange and poo-brown prints are crying for their fashion-moment. Susie Bubble, who is a member of the ‘ugly chic’ club described the colection as follows: “... tinged with a cornucopia of retro references that range from Austin Powers to The Brady Bunch to the London emporium Granny Takes a Trip. “It seems there is a clear new message: Granny is the new trendy.

Umberto Eco writes in On Ugliness: “ …ugliness is more interesting than beauty. Beauty is frequently boring, everybody knows what beauty is…” And he makes a point. What beats your heart more? A beautiful tasteful garment or a quirky remins-me-of-my-granny dress?

If its on Prada, the later is the definite winner.

FASHION SCENE BLOOMING A dictionary for the latest collections that are filled with flowery texture, colour or shape.

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SIMONE ROCHA Jade Vine (Strongylodon macrobotrys) 11

PETER PILOTTO Blue Orchid (Vanda coerulea) RICHARD NICOLL Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) 12

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ACNE Cactus (Pachycereus pringlei)

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FRED BUTLER Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus Asiaticus) 16

MARC JACOBS Cauliflower (Caulis) Coleus (Solenostemon)

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JIL SANDER Peony (Paeonia suffruticosa)

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THIERRY BOUTEMY f a

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Thierry is a very quiet person and it is perfect that way. He lets his hand and creations do all the talking...and all the references. The master of flower arrangements has collaborated with Mario Testino for the Lady Gaga cover of American Vogue last March and the likes of Lanvin, Dior and Dries Van Noten, all thanks to working with Sophia Coppola on the film Marie Antoinette (2006).

Here are some of his flowery thoughts on some important occasions.

For birthdays Wild. Spontaneous. Nothing holding you back. I’d go for something very colorful, and definitely not sweet. I would mix wild or natural flowers, always seasonal. Poppies would be good. Definitely no roses or orchids.

For weddings Simplicity. I’ve just done a wedding, and the couple didn’t want to overdo it, which I think is best. There is no need for frills around such an event. All I used were flowering cherry tree branches.

Effortless.

For saying sorry Nothing. Flowers cannot serve as an apology. In fact, buying anything to say sorry bothers me. The only thing you can do is pluck a flower yourself.

404 Avenue Louise Brussels From Tuesday to Saturday 11.00 - 19.00

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F A S H I O N A B C Alphabetical guide to winter 2012 season

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the key

autumnpieces.

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Nose ring is the piercing of the skin or cartilage which forms any part of the nose, normally for the pupose of wearing jewelry; among the different varieties of nose piercings, the nostril piercing is the most common.

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h A band, typically horseshoe-shaped and made of plastic or stiffened cloth, that is worn across the top of the head and behind the ears to keep the hair off the face.

Also called ‘Alice band’ after the hairband worn by Alice in Sir Tenniel’s illustratios for Lewis Caroll’s 19th c. book, Through The Looking-Glass. Also spelled ‘hair-band’ and ‘hair band’. Sometimes called headband.

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p L U M P E P

A skirt-like addition, formerly fitted to a man’s doublet or waistcoat and later to a woman’s bodice, that extends the garment slightly below the waistline. Sometimes used to refer to the whole garment. Also called ‘basque’.

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b A waist-lenght flight jacket first issued by the US Airforce in 1931. Characterised by two snap-flap patch pockets, shirt collar, epaulettes, and ribbed, knitted wristlets and waistband. Officially made of leather, although civilian copies may be made of other material, with different detailing. Also called A-2 jacket and ‘flight jacket’.

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s A soft leightweight shoe, typically without fastenings in order to be easily ‘slipped’ on the foot (hence the name).

Worn mainly indoors for comfort, types include the babouche, carpet slipper, opera slipper and pinson.

S L I P P E R

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hair knots

crop top negligee

babydoll dress

track pants

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chunky highlights

bare midriff

metallics glitter

vinly pants

leotard

90s GIRL POWER platform shoes

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Analysis of the 90’s girl band phenomenon and their visual appearance.

The late 90s-early 00s brought us a number of bubblegum pop groups: some faded as soon as they arrived, and some made enough of a mark to warrant reunion tours 10 years later. And all of them, at one point or another, had some fashion missteps. Let’s take a walk down memory lane, shall we?

Salt-N-Peppa: Before there was Destiny’s Child, TLC or En Vogue, Salt-N-Peppa was busy shaking things up in the 80s.

So many of the colorful trends these ladies rocked in their heyday have been resurrected over and over, from gaudy “doorknocker” earrings to retro Reebok high tops and acid wash jeans.

TLC: Is this is a fashion disaster? On anyone else, yes. On the ladies of TLC, it’s just Crazy, Sexy, Cool.

Is there a more visible way to promote safe sex than by wearing a condom on your eye? I think not. We miss you, Left Eye. 32

Destiny’s Child: Beyonce is now a superstar and House of Dereon is an actual fashion line, but back in the day, the ladies from Destiny’s Child were running around in Tina Knowles designed outfits that looked like they came from the Maria Von Trapp 3000 collection.

The Spice Girls: Every over-the-top trend of the 90s can be found in the Spice Girls: ridiculous platform shoes, chunky highlights, babydoll dresses, bare midriffs, hair knots, vinyl pants, track pants with crop tops, metallics, neons, sequins, glitter, etc. It was the end of the century and half the world was convinced that the apocalypse was upon us. The visual of the Spice Girls pretty much sums up the era: shinier, louder, more ridiculous, more celebratory, all with this underlying understanding that none of this is really built to last.

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Originally from Krefeld, Germany, Saskia Schijen graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2011. Saskia’s graduation collection was inspired by the work of German fine-art photographer and artist Wolfgang Tillmans.

The assemblage features denim with graphic wash and dye effects as well as luxurious sportswear. The designer played with proportion and made a tribute to the 90s low rise jeans in intricate washes and skinny active wear tops.

Her up-sized belted denim pants in a tight color palette of white and indigo, creates a clinical and fresh look, while bleached laundries gives the collection a street wear edge.

S A S K I A S C H I J E N / s a s k i a s c h i j e n . c o m /

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E D I T O R I A L A N A L Y S I S with

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comments

LOOKING THROUGH THE PRETZEL GAVE HER NEW PERSPECTIVES IN HER MODELLING CAREER.

(Photo: Free People)

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FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AT ITS ‘DEEP’

(Photo: Purple magazine)

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BECAUSE OF THE RECESSION, THE BUDGET WAS TIGHT FOR PROPS THIS YEAR.

(Photo: Interview magazine) 39

SERIOUSLY?????????????

(Photo: Factice magazine)

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SHE OVERHEARD THE NEW DIET BETWEEN THE GIRLS: CABBAGE!

(Photo: Vogue Latin America)

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THIS IS HOW A VICTORIA BECKHAM INSPIRED SHOOT LOOKS LIKE.

(Photo: Vogue Russia)

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ONLY THE BEST CAN MAKE IT AS A LAMP STAND.

(Photo: Tush magazine)

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THE CONSERVATORY

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Home to over 2,000 species of tropical plants and trees, the Barbican’s Conservatory is a hidden tropical oasis in the heart of the city. So it may look like a giant green house to the casual observer but finches, quails and exotic fish all live here. Opened in 1984, the glass structure is yet another part of the Barbican’s famously strange and controversial architectural make-up. Being enclosed by the glass roof means you can visit in any weather or hire the place for conferences, film premieres and private functions. With the wedding season just starting, it can be a magical and very hip venue for fashionistas to say their vowes to each other. Richard Nicoll’s upcoming bridal collaction for TopShop would be the perfect choice to accompany the dreamlike setting.

Barbican Gallery Floor (Level 3) Silk Street London EC2Y 8DS Open: Sundays and Bank Holiday Mondays 12:00 - 16:00 Telephone: 020 7382 7246

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T H E FA S H I O N C I R C U S

John Galliano

It all began with John Galliano’s skandal last year and followed with the dismissal of the designer from Christian Dior; a position he had held since 1996. Next came the announcement in February that Jil Sander would return to her eponymous label she founded in 1968, leaving Raf Simons without a role as a womenswear designer. Following news that Stefano Pilati would leave Yves Saint Laurent, there were rumours that Simons was in talks with the Parisian house only to be quashed when the house announced Hedi Slimane as its new creative director. Simons destination was last confirmed at Christian Dior, where he will oversee women’s ready-to-wear, haute couture and accessory collections. Pilati’s next move is yet to be announced.

Stefano Pilati

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Raf Simons Jil Sander

Hedi Slimane

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HELP JOHN GALLIANO FIND HIS WAY BACK INTO FASHION.

FASHION

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HELP JEAN PAUL GAULTIER FIND HIS WAY BACK TO GOOD TASTE.

(In reflection on the Amy Winehouse inspired spring/summer 2012 Haute Couture collection.)

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JUERGEN

TELLER

For over a year Juergen Teller presented a new image each week with an accompanying text he had written in German’s most respected newspaper Die Zeit.

‘Pictures and words’ is a publication in two parts is a compilation of this autobiographical body of work. The controversial style of Teller provoked reactions from readers and the magazine received piles of complaining letters. Book two “Literature” contains the best of these letters.

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The Clinic Fame and career doesn’t go high When one has no sense of style.

Fashion emergency right away That must be the only way.

Entering a shopping place There is already a mighty race.

Ladies queuing and buying hard This is certainly a fashion ward.

Shouting Shopaholics everywhere: Give me now that Gucci pair!

Clothes like medicine selling well Sir Philip Green is proud as hell.

Choosing wisely as our Kate, The fashion fix is quickly made.

Sometimes a drop into the cities heart.

Can save jobs and hopes every kind.

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The Loss

I lost it two weeks ago, It was a terrible fiasco.

Every day from now on than, Missing thoughts were all I had.

The shape, the colour, the mark on the edge, Reminded me it wasn’t average.

All the memories kept flushing back, How could I be such a stupid brat?

Two seasons of fashion gone, Bagging up another one.

However my heart is still ‘ouch’, Without my beautiful Hermes pouch!

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C L I N I C 2012 Š Anna Szanto 64