Issue 2
Nature-watching in Europe Welcome to this second issue of Nature-watching in Europe magazine. The focus of the magazine is places to enjoy nature in Europe. However, there will also be articles about the various species that live here. So, in this issue, we have a few stories about some of the common and widespread plant species, a visit some ancient pines in Italy. We have a quirky look at Crete, from ground level, and a thoughtful piece from the forests of Finland. La Brenne in France is possibly best known for its breeding birds, but there is plenty to keep the butterfly enthusiast happy there too. Our photographic trip comes from the Scottish Island of Skye, and there are yet more island tales from Madeira. And finally, enjoy the slower pace of life with a trip to Ireland.
Annie Haycock
Annie Haycock is a freelance naturalist, living and working (as an ecological consultant, wildlife photographer, videographer and writer) in Pembrokeshire, Wales. All material in this publication is ŠNature-watching in Europe unless otherwise stated.
Contents Portugal: A day out at Ribeiro Frio, Madeira Italy: Visit the Bosnian Pines in Pollino NP
Floral stories: There’s more to flowers than just a pretty face France: Watching butterflies in la Brenne Finland: The story of the forest
Contents Scotland: Photographing Skye landscapes in the mist Greece: An incredible shrinking safari on the Island of Crete Research news: Just what did cause the death of the chamois? Ireland: A week on the limestone pavement
This month’s locations. Click on the spot to go to the article NB. the spot in the bottom left corner represents the Portuguese island of Madeira which is actually situated rather further west and south off the edge of the map PS. these links work only in the iPad version.
Madeira – the Laurel forest at Ribeiro Frio The Island of Madeira is a popular stopping point for cruise ships, but where does the naturalist head for to make the most of a day ashore? If the weather is at least reasonable, I'd recommend taking a bus ride north to the mountain village of Ribeiro Frio. The route winds its way up through Funchal, through commercial forest, then the edge open plateau of the top of the island, then down into the Laurel forest and the village. Best to leave the bus at the restaurant Ribeiro Frio (just south of the village) from where there are several options for walking, birdwatching and botanising. If this area is in the clouds, you might prefer to continue to Santana or Porto da Cruz on the north coast If the weather is good, another option is to get off the bus at Poiso, and walk the 4km to Pico de Arieiro near the top of the island - best in good weather. But leave enough time to walk back to catch the bus back.
The Madeira Islands were known to the Romans as the Purple Islands. It is likely that the Arabian sailors knew about the archipelago in the 14th Century – appears on a 1351 Florentine map named “Isola de Lolegname” (Island of Wood)
The official date of discovery is 1419 by Portuguese seamen. And within the next ten years most of the endemic forests were burnt away to make room for agriculture. Some forest still remains on the steep slopes on the northern half of the island. This woodland is most easily accessible at Ribeiro Frio Just below the bus stop a track is signposted to “Balcoes” (Balconies) and an easy half-hour walk leads to a magnificent view over a valley. Alongside the path is the Levada (water channel) do Faial, and a selection of laurel forest plant species, such as Madeira mahogany Persea indica, Bay tree Laurus axorica, Madeira orchid Dactyloriza foliosa, and Yellow foxglove Isoplexis isoplexis.
The balcony itself juts out over a 200m drop – but a sturdy iron rail fence prevents you from falling off. Here is probably the best place for birdwatching – the endemic races of sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus granti, kestrel Falco Tinunculus canariensis, buzzard Buteo buteo harterti, blackbird Turdus merula cabrerae, chaffinch Fringilla coelebs madeirensis, and firecrest Regulus ignicapillus madeirensis and the endemic trocaz pigeon Columba trocaz can all be seen from here. However, nothing is guaranteed except perhaps the chaffinches, which have learned that tourists mean food.
On clear days, you can see the the island’s central chain of mountains – Pico de Areeiro, Pico do Gato, Pico das Torres, Pico Ruivo and Achada do Teixeira. Even a cloudy day may allow occasional glimpses: In the valley below is the Ribeira da Ametade (next page), and it is possible to walk along the track at the bottom from a point some 7km north of Ribeiro Frio. This whole valley is a protected area within the Madeira Natural Park. Some of the laurel trees here are centuries old, and may date from before the colonisation of the island.
Left – Laurel tree in bloom.
The chaffinches are very tame, and easily bribed with seeds or apples
Trocaz pigeons keep their distance, but can be seen with luck and patience.
This bright jewel of a bird is the firecrest, weighing only 6g (1/4 ounce). It is continuously active, often hidden in the vegetation, but can be very confiding, as was this individual foraging in the heather by the Balcoes.
Adjacent to the gift shop and restaurant is the government trout farm, where the fish are reared to restock the rivers, as well as for food. Here there is a break in the forest, allowing growth of flowers such as the native Erysimum bicolour to attract butterflies like the Madeiran Brimstone Gonopteryx maderensis This southern form of the speckled wood Parage ergeria is a newcomer to Madeira (since 1976) and found in more open areas. The Madeiran speckled wood Pararge xiphia is larger and darker, with much more brown colouring. The Madeiran brimstone and the Madeiran speckled wood are both natives of the Laurel forest.
On the opposite side of the road to the trout farm is the Parque Florestal (Forest Park) – a botanical garden of Laurel forest plants. Best visited in late spring and summer, this is the place for those difficult-to-find endemics such as the yellow foxgloves – and most are labelled. It’s open all day, every day, with no charge for entrance. Canary buttercup Ranunculus cortusifolius flowers in March and April with big showy flowers. The round basal leaves seem to keep growing larger well after flowering is over. Both wild strawberry Fragaria vesca (below left) and the violet Viola riviniana (below right) are native to the rest of Europe as well as being at home in the Laurel forests.
Geranium maderense (next page) is endemic to the island’s Laurel forests and is has pink flowers of 3 - 4cm diameter.
By the trout farm, concrete steps lead up to a levada path which takes you to another kind of forest – full heather trees.
Tree heath Erica arborea (above) has small leaves and white flowers with red anthers and stgmas. It grows well above 700m, and old specimens can be 5m tall. It was formerly used for charcoal-making, becoming quite a scarce plant. Besom Heath Erica Scoparia maderincola (left) also grows to tree proportions, and these two species are often found growing together. Besom heath has broader, longer needle-like leaves, and reddish bell-shaped flowers. It grows from sea level to to 1400m, and plays an important role on the island, condensing the mist into small drops that feed the water tables. Its wood was formerly used in furniture-making, and it is still used to make brooms (hence the name besom) and fencing hurdles. The latter are especially characteristic in the landscape around Port Moniz in the north-west of the island.
Going west from the Ribeiro Frio restaurant, is the Levada do Furado to Portela. This 12km hike is considered to be one of the best on the island, but involves steep drops and rockcut tunnels, so is not for the faint-hearted. You also need to be aware of the time in order to be sure of catching the bus back to Funchal at the end. If you suffer from vertigo, you can still do the first kilometre or so of the walk, then turn back to Ribeiro Frio when you’ve had enough. Below and left: scenes along the Levada do Furado
Further information On our first visit in 1996, we found a few books about the cultivated plants on Madeira, but nothing about the natural history. In 2006 this had changed, with the publication of a delightful book called Madeira’s Natural History in a nutshell by Peter Sziemer and available in several European languages. By 2014 the situation had further improved, and the Museum in Funchal (near the Teleferique) had quite a selection of books and maps. Tripadvisor lists a number of tour operators who provide guided walking and driving tours which may include wildlife. Wildlife specialist operators include MadeiraWindBirds – we have not tried them yet. Levada Walks Walking the paths beside the levadas (water channels) is a popular pasttime. If you plan to take any of these paths, please make sure you have upto-date information. We followed one from a 1996 book, and found the end of it had changed due to building and road works. Another one we had followed in 1996 and found a bit hairy then, was no longer considered a safe route in 2014. The original Levada-walking guide was Landscapes of Madeira which is frequently updated, and is now also available as a pdf for use on tablets, etc. We would recommend this, but have not tried any of the other books now on the market.
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