RTW magazine

menswear

RTW ready to wear fashion trends and forecasts

Previeow Editi n

OfďŹ cial Magazine Partner Issue Date September 2010

noT For SAlE

Editor’s Letter September 2010 Lakme Fashion Week, Season 2, 2010

Creative Director Peali Dutta Gupta Art Director Shamik Kundu Contributing Photographers Pomy Issar, India Latiff Napolean Johari, UK Matthias Koeppel, Europe Steve Wood, Europe Printed and processed at Archana Advertising C-78, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi-110020, India Owner, Editor & Publisher Annou Iyer for trendLAB Fashion Publishing, M 90, Level 2, Saket, New Delhi 110017, India All rights reserved worldwide.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Manuscripts, drawings and editorial material submitted must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelop. RTW cannot be responsible for unsolicited material.

Customer enquiries and orders payable to trendLAB Fashion Publishing, Subscriptions Department, M 90, Level 2, Saket, New Delhi 110017, India Tel: +91 11 46099422

Information info@rtwmag.com Subscriptions subscriptions@rtwmag.com Advertising advertise@rtwmag.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED BY ANNOU IYER

RTW Menswear Preview Edition

It gives me great pleasure to introduce RTW to you.

The amazing concept of RTW really is to simply provide a dedicated pictorial review and an articulate synopsis of ready to wear collections, round the world. Presenting a varied fashion world with precision and creativity, RTW has a specific focus on fashion trends and fashion forecasting.

Photo: Modefabriek 2010

Publishing Editor/Fashion Director Annou Iyer

RTW as a fashion trend guide and a reference manual, covers all sectors of fashion, from men’s and women’s clothing, to luxury brands, global retail brands, international design houses, fashion entrepreneurs and fashion houses.

With distribution in India as well as international markets, the quarterly magazine aims to chronicle the evolution of fashion through RTW Womenswear, RTW Menswear as well as RTW Acccessori Editions.

As an independent niche publishing house, trendLAB Fashion Publishing, rather than just publishing, aims to really package fashion information that is directly relevant to our targeted fashion industry, ensuring our readers to gain valuable insights into current trends, colour palettes and fabrications for each coming seasons.

As a special gesture, please find herewith a complimentary copy of the PREVIEW MENSWEAR issue. Please feel free to write and send me your suggestions.

Lastly, I take this opportunity to thank IMG & LAKME to extend their support towards RTW as a niche fashion concept and towards me as an entrepreneur.

Design © PealiDezine www.pealidezine.com

RTW Series include: RTW Menswear RTW Womenswear RTW Accessori (supplement) Cover Fransisco Van Benthum S/S 2011 Photo Peter Stigter

Annou Iyer Publishing Editor / Fashion Director E: annouiyer@rtwmag.com editor@rtwmag.com

Winter/Festive 2010 Sept. 17>21 Grand Hyatt, Mumbai

Official Magazine Partner

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RTWMenswear Trends S/S 2011

PremièreVision

Viktor & Rolf S/S11

Kenzo S/S 11

Sparkling Nonchalance A relaxed and energetic approach with relaxed and charmingly simple silhouettes...

The present is joined with the breeze of a slightly ‘50s nonchalance, updated by all the tactile and visual evolutions of modern fabrics.

• Colourfully playing with Bulgomme style stretch piqués, soft and supple tweeds, birds-eye weaves, micro patterns and sugary embroideries • Revelling in spruce fantasy, in acidic and tender colour ways, with asymmetric stripes, gently offcourse checks and ginghams, floral jacquards and prints, with an artificial cleanliness • T hrilling to variations in light, with chambrays and oxfords vibrating with white, with linen-y shot looks and luminous finishings and scrapings with fused tones • Lending paleness to silhouettes through uniformly powdered fabrics, and soft and precious washings on both the finest and most tangible bases • Playing with the semi transparency of silks with blown-up structures and ethereal handles. Adorning oneself in precise perforations, in cut-yarn jacquards and accentuating the tastiness of silhouettes with soft contrasts Kenzo S/S 11

Gustavo Lins S/S 11

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RTWMenswear trendsetters

Kris Van Assche He heads his own label, KRIS VAN ASSCHE and is the artistic director for Dior Homme.

Balancing a nostalgic historical sense with radical modernism, Kris Van Assche has created a distinctive, refined world of nonchalant elegance… By Annou Iyer Born to Create Kris Van Assche was born in Belgium in 1976. Shortly after graduating from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he moved to Paris in 1998. Van Assche worked under Hedi Slimane first at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme and followed him in 2001 to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for the launch of Dior Homme, which electrified the men’s wear scene and catapulted Slimane to fashion stardom.

Assche’s first 6 months of internship

Spring/Summer 2010

at YSL had become 8 years of close collaboration as first assistant of the master Slimane. Assche was chosen as the new artistic designer for Dior Homme after Hedi Slimane left Dior. Van Assche launched his signature collection in Paris in 2005. Today he heads his own label, KRIS VAN ASSCHE and is the artistic director for Dior Homme since April 2007. He continues with his own business which remains independent of Dior. His independent line is sold in 160 doors in Asia, Europe and North America.

Works of Art For Kris Van Assche, the elegance of old times needs no dusting: his precision and careful attention to materials are not a reinterpretation of the past but new enticing figures of young slender dynamic men of our times. His collections nostalgically define a new approach to masculinity infused with poetry and a touch of ironic allure given by details and polished colours.

Van Assche’s work is characterized by a strong feel for ritual and the exacting depiction of a chic that evokes “days gone

Autumn/Winter 10-11

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by”. His designs arise from a sophisticated approach that breaks away from the uniformization of sportswear. His label is focused on what he really wants to wear and do and describes it as a self focussed egocentric label. While at Dior he is obliged to focus on what the brand represents. He finds a right balance between the both and tries to push that forward.

On Men’s Fashion “Men’s fashion shows have a very different role in the industry as compared to women’s shows. Men’s runway appeals to a small percentage of consumers and the business being done during a men’s show is about branding, it’s attitude, it’s positioning. Men also do not respond to trends like women do. Men’s style tends to change in a slow morph of details over years or even decades as men’s fashion, at its core, is conservative. Even men who are considered “well dressed” aren’t into fashion. From any best-dressed list, you will find its members get their suits from tiny bespoke tailors in London and Florence. Splashy menswear launches of recent memory include Thom Browne, who’s inspiration is a fifties accountant who likes stiff Scotch and racquetball, and Tom Ford,

Embarking on an esthetic quest and pursuing a new masculinity infused with poetry and authenticity...

Spring/Summer 2010

who surrounds very traditional suiting with egregious luxury and astonishing price tags.

His suits aren’t radical, though their marketing is, and that, perhaps, is the key to his success.

Because too much fashion on a man just isn’t masculine enough for most men.”

Van Assche’s debut for Dior was, he says, an homage to Dior’s famous atelier, a showcase for what such highly skilled hands can do. It was sort of camp Fitzgerald, with tableaux vivants of Van Assche’s beautiful, beautiful boys in endless combinations of white shirts and black trousers in every conceivable permutation: “I want to bring back the feeling of a salon,” Van Assche says, “the feeling of Mr. Dior.” But there isn’t a great tradition of “Mr. Dior,” as far as menswear is concerned. The great French houses have status because of their work in womenswear: in couture, in ready-towear. The men’s businesses appeared as appendages, without particular identities apart from an idea of luxury and craft, until Hedi Slimane came along.

And so this celebration of luxury and skill, perhaps, is what Van Assche means.

Because it is all quite perfect, with rich, soft fabrics and precise, couture-level finishes.

Catwalk Photos: Patrice Stable

Autumn/Winter 09-10

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RTWMenswear Trends S/S 2011

PremièreVision

Regenerated Tailoring A refreshed and a casual elegance is seen that cheers up tailoring with passion...

Fibre blends for a citywear is boosted with suppleness and lightness and elaborates with the mastery of stretch additions to create a new skin in all serenity with conciliating silks and knits.

There is an unrestrained closing in on the seductive ergonomics of knits and body-sheathing double weaves. The stiffness is eased with the dense fluidity of fabrics that are fusions of natural and synthetics and fabrics with springy fluidity, through wool and silk or cotton and polyamide blends. New creamy epidermals seduce with talc-like silks, extremely soft cottons, and generously enzyme textiles.

Surfaces are interrupted by precious grains, by crepes and micro textures, intimately disrupted by linen-y irregularities with a new spin to ties and daring disproportions. Fantasy adapts to new takes on sailor stripes with a textile extravagance, launching into decoration and head-to-toe colour for flowery suitings.

Francisco Van Benthum S/S11

Kenzo S/S11

RTW Promotion

RTWMenswear trendsetters

Corneliani

Sergio Corneliani (Centre) at Corneliani Fashion Show, Statione Leopolda, Pitti Immagine UOMO 77 Photo by G. Giannoni

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Capitalising on its tailoring skills, a perfect combination of cutting-edge technology, research and design, for over half a century Corneliani has been moving along the way to beauty.

A way in which it has been helped by a strategy that skilfully combined corporate style with family business...

The Group Corneliani S.p.A. creates, manufactures and distributes top-of-the-range menswear and accessory collections all over the world. Its premises and operating units are based in Mantova, Italy.

The company has two sites in Italy, one in Mantova and one in Verona, with around one thousand employees, and two international sites where the diffusion lines are manufactured. An international player, Corneliani stands out for its modern take on the values of tradition and quality that – together with its modern brand - make it a world landmark in men’s elegance.

Corneliani is a family more than an established business.

Carlalberto and Claudio, the two brothers who set up the business, are assisted by their sons, each one taking care of a specific area: Corrado the technical director, Maurizio the sales and strategic marketing director, Sergio the creative director, and Cristiano the international sales director. Different positions, same good taste, same uncompromising will in making bold, upmarket choices, always inspired by a natural bent for excellence.

The Group, with a deeply structured management led by a central management team, after establishing its leadership in the luxury menswear market, is now looking forward to new, carefullyplanned experiences.

The History In the Thirties, Alfredo Corneliani, one of the pioneers of the Italian menswear industry, set up a small manufacture of handmade coats and raincoats which soon became quite a success even though production was temporarily discontinued during WW2.

But it was his sons Claudio and Carlalberto who founded Corneliani S.p.A. in Mantova, in the late Fifties, giving it a dimension, an identity and such high standards it became one of the world’s most important menswear brands.

After establishing one of the most innovative manufacturing sites in this area, the Group took over Verona-based Abital in 1980. In 1985, it set up a sales branch in New York to manage its business in the US and Canada. In the late Nineties, two new plants were built in Europe.

After extending and strengthening its market horizons all over the world, in 2008 the Group opened a representative office in Shanghai, China. But the Mantova site is still a hotbed of projects and research, producing clothes and accessories collections for which Corneliani’s fashion is considered the epitome of the best Italian-made fashion and synonym with style.

2008 coincided with its 50th anniversary. To celebrate this event, an exhibition of photographs and advertising campaigns

RTWMenswear trendsetters

in Florence portrayed the evolution of a consistent, elegant style, the event was also celebrated by a Limited Edition, a range of precious, extraordinary clothes that were only sold in Corneliani monobrand stores.

The Quality of the Past in the Presents Corneliani’s philosophy and work can be summed up by the image of a needle and a computer.

The continuation of the finest tailoring tradition, the preservation of hand sewing and finishing operations complete each other and are further boosted by the most sophisticated technology available.

So the quality of the past lives on in the present, and the study of design increases its dynamism and modernity.

Now in their third generation, the Corneliani family have taken up and capitalised on a legacy which combines passion with the finest practice. At the same time, in their ongoing commitment to optimising their products, they have acquired design and manufacturing resources that would not look out of place in a big industry.

The ongoing training of skilled staff is a guarantee of manual skills, capability, accuracy, efficiency, at every stage of the manufacturing process. The perfect tailoring, assisted by computer technology, the creation of interlinings, the assembly of the sleeves, the bust and the collar, the finishing touches, which are completed by a cutting-edge ironing and finishing system, can only be carried out by thoroughly trained staff.

Quality as the main value underpinning every action is the inspiration behind the selection of human resources, the choice of

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RTWMenswear trendsetters

raw materials and its experimental work.

This also turns into an ability to select and buy precious yarns, some of the most valuable fabrics in the world, in the creative challenge of using innovative materials in unusual colour combinations and exclusive patterns.

Its ongoing research into volumes and shapes defines increasingly sleek lines and a light as well as flawless result.

In 2005, Corneliani was awarded the Premio QualitĂ Leonardo, a sought-after honour which is conferred by the President of the Italian Republic to those Italian companies that have excelled in their technological standards and have achieved the greatest success on the international markets.

Unique nuances and shades provide unusual effects. The high quality standards of Corneliani products have resulted in production and distribution licences being granted to international designers and brands: the latest one being Polo Ralph Lauren.

RTW Promotion

designerprofile

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RTWMenswear Trends S/S 2011

Jil Sander S/S 11

PremièreVision

Etro S/S 11

Cheeky Opulence Daring impertinent encounters navigate between street culture and couture opulence for silhouettes high in blends and colour...

Fabrics are impulsively coloured, layered, combined by bringing together bright fabrics with ethereal handles, paper-thin fabrics, plain or jacquard silks and cottons and weightless laces. The trend creates bridges between the luxurious and the playful, and reveals fertile alliances between natural and artificial in fabrics and decoration, playing with panache on contrasting behaviour to elaborate dazzling silhouettes. Designing with mohair wools or firm linens, and contradicting with softened double weaves, raw aspects and languid knits.

Freedom is authorised by the imaginary wonders of a fluid and aquatic world by covering up in diluted patterns and fabrics with soaked aspects - strange under-water scenes, the dark depths of technical suitings, inventing synthetic sirens or strange jellyfish.

Francisco Van Benthum S/S11

RTW S/S 2011

india Fashion Week

Rajesh Pratap Singh S/S 2011

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RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

ASHISH N SONI Ashish N Soni’s S/S 2011 collection is inspired by the 70’s retro sport style mood.

The shapes are sharp and straight with fitted pants and clean silhouettes. The designer’s focus comes mostly on dandy chic outfits with a modern allure attached to every single item, where retro smart clothes bring a new sense of detail inspired presentation.

Lightweight fabrics in well placed prints, checks, madras checks, gabardine, denim and poplin are highlighted in Ashish N Soni’s well defined & detailed signature style.

RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

Rohit gandhi Rahul Khanna Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna present “The Tavelogue� S/S 2011 menswear collection that narrates the story of a traveler. The monochromatic tone of the ensembles is highlighted by muted shades like greys, washed whites and off-whites with sand and stone. The muted prints on off-white jackets have tone dyes, blotchy, smoky and inked stains, all worn with a jersey t-shirt beneath and accessorized with rugged leather bags. The duo mix perfectly the structure of the garments and the fluidity of the atmosphere.

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RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

NARENDRA KUMAR AHMED Narendra Kumar with his collection “Kagemusha” is inspired by the Japanese art of Samurai and its traditional Bushido philosophy.

“Kagemusha”, a 1980 Japanese Samurai film by Akira Kurosawa influences a new direction as a new collection is created based on structure through fluidity and captures the mood through the use of the muted, dark colour palette and accented with rust orange. Japanese decorative arts: Ikebana and Yakuza tattoo prints are combined with the rigours of tailoring, referencing the dark period of Kamakura.

RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

RAJESH PRATAP SINGH Absolutely on track with current international menswear trends, Rajesh Pratap’s menswear collection is a tribute to Rock n Roll. The mood transcends towards a rock band travelling in the countryside of Rajasthan.

Men are adorned with metallic adornments, denim is seen in its original avatar, trousers are boot cuts, flare and jodhpurs. The skull motif is softened by the Ajrak prints (the unique form of resist print technique originating from Sindh, also found in Kutch.) in intense colours such as mustard, rich crimson or a deep indigo with some white and black used sparingly to give definition to the geometric symmetry in design.

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RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

SAMANT CHAUHAN For menswear S/S 2011 colelction, Samant Chauhan derives his inspiration from the mysterious characteristics of a psychic killer. Promoting Bhagalpur craftsmanship, the collection is predominantly made in handwoven linen with applications made out of leather, completing the look with Hannibal masks.

The colours range from cream to beige and browns.

The fabrics are oiled and greased and highlighted with techniques such as iron rusting, cold pigmentation and enzyme washes.

RTWMenswear india fashion week S/S 2011

TROY COSTA Troy Costa’s menswear S/S 2011 collection focuses on urbane, modern masculinity with sharp silhouettes, highlighted with a definite element of luxury. The fabrics are overdyed, ombre printed, creased and blotched. The check pattern is interpreted in varieties of Madras as well as Prince of Wales checks. The shirts are semi transparent from white to desert shades on the lines of season’s military flourish.

The colour, blue represents a colour trend in all its variants from Indigo to the vintage denim shirt.

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RTWMenswear Trends S/S 2011

Kenzo S/S11

PremièreVision

Kris Van Assche S/S11

Kenzo S/S11

The Fancy and Fluid Universe Semi-plain visuals target an elegant and discreet every day, while decoration is a vector for strong expression...

Kenzo S/S11

Kris Van Assche S/S 11

Gianfranco Ferre S/S11

Silks, woollens and embroideries are washed and matt for a more casual attitude. Cottons and linens lend a fresh, natural feeling while maintaining a preciousness and refined delicacy. In total contrast to this relaxed spirit, the exceptional is accorded a favoured place, with couture-style bulky looks and excessive volume.

Jackets are lighter toned and fancy woollens are smartly spruce, with fantasy in the yarns, boosted by little grating or scintillating accents. Linens on stage are figured raw and play on transparency/rusticity, silk and linen blends.

Decorations are done with subtle graphics, re-drawn and re-coloured. The stained interpretations - immerged, inked or soaked treatments with sullied smokiness, unevenly dyed aspects are visible.

Smalto S/S 11

Gugstavo Lins S/S 11

Kenzo S/S11

RTW Promotion

www.studiovirtues.in +91 90995 30000

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RTWMenswear trendsetters

Youn Chong BAK At the age of 30, the discreet Youn Chong Bak becomes the backbone of Smalto. Promoted to the position of creative director, she embodies the House’s 3rd generation of designers.

Youn Chong represents concentrated energy and determination.

Her jet-black eyes say much about the intransigence she expresses in her work. She sparkles, stands out from the crowd... For her collections, she brings her simplicity, spontaneity and epicureanism.

Her fine style is contagious. For her first collection presented on July 1st, Youn Chong Bak shows an ebullient creative energy that enhances masculine charm. Here is the story of a successful career constructed in the same House.

How do you explain your success?

I have always trusted fate and encounters as I know that it is impossible to succeed alone. When I arrived at Smalto, seven years ago, I had no career plan and did not imagine that I would one day become the creative director. Franck Boclet, the former AD had scouted me when I was working as a designer. In 2003, I took charge of the style office. I loved transposing Franck’s ideas to products. My success is therefore based on my passion for my profession…But I am convinced that success is something to be shared.

What would you say characterizes you most?

I have a very strong need to express myself and discover other people. I am someone who observes a lot and I need to exteriorize what I feel. At an early age, I started to draw portraits, objects and

landscapes too. My dual culture - Swiss and Korean have given me an open attitude to the world. It is what feeds my work today.

Why have you opted for men’s fashion?

I find it easy to design for men. Innovating, playing with details and proportions in a conventional sector provides endless sources of inspiration. Contrary to other artistic fields, fashion is particularly anchored in reality as it makes people more beautiful and more comfortable in their clothes.

Besides fashion, what are your interests?

Movies and design are my main interests. Music too, of course.

I am starting to look very closely at photography. I take photos as I travel. I am especially inspired by very urban and graphic atmospheres. I love to create images where architecture plays a dominant role. I also like to take portraits and shoot scenes of everyday life, stolen moments.

How do you approach the evolution of the brand?

When I arrived at Smalto, the label was known for its traditional tailoring know-how. The challenge was to create an extended brand environment: we therefore had to create a dozen or so accessory lines and a B line. In terms of product, we meticulously

RTWMenswear trendsetters

worked on all the details that enhance movement and allure: we thus designed the famous Napolitan shoulder. In 2003, the company was taken over by Alliance Designers. We continued this policy by establishing a brand environment focusing on luxurious but contemporary elegance: this is expressed by a “designer-tailor” style which I obviously wish to maintain.

What differentiates Smalto from another brand?

Smalto has a strong emotional capital with its Italian roots: Latin elegance gives a strong character to our collections. The Smalto style sets itself apart from the rest!

What do you want to express in your forthcoming collections ?

I have delved even further into the brand’s codes, closely studying the Haute Couture archives. Driving style forward does not mean “forgetting the brand’s assets”. You need to remain humble with such a heritage! I want to respect, enrich, and adapt it. Next winter I will work on a mini Haute Couture collection with Monsieur Smalto. For ready-to-wear, I want to soften the style to make it even more refined, purer, less show off, moving towards a more offbeat elegance.

How would you describe Smalto man?

Smalto man symbolizes an equation between virility, mystery and sensitivity. He is natural and has a free spirit. He lives on his wits. I do not want to invent or redefine him: Smalto should allow a man to express what he is, what he thinks, what he feels, without feeling weak. The more exposed a man is, the more elegant he should be. For me, Smalto man should be seductive but not a seducer.

His presence inspires respect, through a natural, uncontrollable strength. He is magnetic, moving, with a strong personality. And last but not least: his eyes. They need to suggest a mystery which will intrigue women and which they will want to discover further.

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RTWMenswear Trends S/S 2011

PremièreVision

The Casualwear Universe A masculine spirit with rock ‘n’ roll, an irresistible penchant for suave pastels, a silhouette interpreting all the casualwear fabrics, with a bit less weight and a bit more elegance...

The sportswear silhouette is marked with contrasts: creating oppositions between outerwear and what’s worn underneath. The rustic fabric is softened through multiple washings. Visuals, printed decorations and yarn-dyeds are softened, freshened up, or delicately dusty.

The variable blues of denim impose themselves in all products. The jackets are impeccable in plain or checked, matt cottons or cotton/synthetic blends, with a measured gleam for chic and functional trenches. There is a muffled gleam with waxed coatings or dulled metallics for a unisex shine.

In cotton or denim, viscose or Lyocell blends are mixed with linen or cotton to lend springiness. Chinos are finer and lighter in neat and delicately washed cottons, textured fabrics and two-toned yarn dyeds, chiné knits are lightened with white. Checks are shadowed with sun. Surfaces are softened right up to slightly powdery surfaces. Fine poplin shirtings take on natural and refined wrinkling.

Smalto16 S/S11

Kris Van Assche S/S11

Kenzo S/S11

Gustavo Lins S/S11

Smalto S/S11

RTW A/W 2010-11

trends

Current Season

Bottega Veneta A/W 2010-11

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RTWMenswear Trend Directions A/W 2010-11

munichfabricstart

departure In Winter 2010/2011, we take off to a new era. Due to a change in attitude, we are heading for a new sense of time and values. Driven by neo-realism we approach multiple chances and challenges. Never shy, but decided and powerful. Everything is thought through and above all – reasonable. Frugalness does not mean surrender. Extreme ideas surprise, intelligent technologies convince, realization brings change. This masculine sobriety is carried by feminine enthusiasm. Emotions are our incitements. The esthetics of innovation, the beauty of our environment, architecture, culture, fashion and nature earn a new significance. Esthetical perception paired up with an ecological mind set and ethic actions are the future oriented companions on our real time trip. Nostalgic detours are inspiring and allied to the thought of recycling.

The new wave of energy takes on reactionary features and perpetuates the power of the required transformation of ideas into a new viable reality. Departure. Rethinking. New thinking. Ready for take off.

Jil Sander A/W 10-11

puritans Confidently we are striding through a new era, shrouded in a coat of frugality. The equilibrium of mind and soul is reflected in rational and powerful, intense actions. With the awareness of sustainability, we turn high quality consumption into long-lasting pleasure for the mind and senses.

An unobtrusive style – like Jil Sander – defines the image of the neo-conservative sobriety and clarity. Elegant, classic shapes are exaggerated discreetly at the shoulder or seam creating new silhouettes. Elaborate cuts as well as pleating and draping create substantial wideness. Modern comfort is shown in technical materials and functional details.

COLOURS A quiet mood of soft winter pastels effuse feminine airiness with blue and rosewood infused hues of white. They are accompanied by middle grey shades like cement or polished metal, which radiate calmness. Light, warm wood tones, like ash tree, beech and nut tree appear natural and are combined with cool leather shades.

Jil Sander A/W 10-11

fabrics Materials are snugly soft, like noble mohair, cashmere and vincunhja. Washed or brushed wool qualities are en vogue. Cotton surfaces show an emerised pile. Felted materials like loden build the base for the construction of soft protection.

Clean and compact technical fabrics in canvas bindings bring stability to the look. Leather in masculine as well as finest glove qualities stand for durability par excellence.

RTWMenswear Trend Directions A/W 2010-11

dark ink The day is running low and dawn immerses the large city in a uniform, comfortable dim light. Iridescent twilights turn the metropolis in a sequin-like ocean of lights at the end of the day. It enlightens the mystic darkness of the night and evokes hidden powers of creativity and poesy. Silhouettes create impressions of armoured warriors in polygonal rooms, distorted and oversized as if Thierry Mugler did his magic. They denote power and rigidity through extreme construction of sleeves, shoulders and tops.

Catsuits, surreal distorted like Grace Jones’ shadows, transform into wide gothic shells.

Men are transformed into women; women are transformed into men in the transgender zone. Black light flickers in dark arches and transcendent vibrations drag us deeper into the night - until we seem to dive into it, into an underground lake whose surface shimmers like viscous ink in thousand nuances.

Gianfranco Ferre A/W 10-11

COLOURS Black in different cold and warm shades shimmers next to dark night-blue, viola and green.

Strict grey and brown disrupt the monochromacity.

Gianfranco Ferre A/W 10-11

fabrics Ruled by clean, compact woven, chic surfaces such as satin, taffeta and drilled wool, an elegant allure enters the stage. The eccentric mixture of materials is favoured by the reduced colour range. Ghost-like light shells with heavy double-wovens or iridescent varnish finishes with blunt surfaces are wanted. Furs look like the shiny, fluffy feather dress of a nightingale. High quality finished materials are made in the same laboratory that gave Knightrider his indestructible powers.

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RTWMenswear Trend Directions A/W 2010-11

occident express The Occident Express gets going in a thick white cloud of nostalgia and loud whistling. Through plumes of fume, you can sense the historical steel pillars of Gare de l’est. The mood is occidental when the train moves eastwards merrily. Sundown in Paris, sunrise in Berlin. In the cool morning breezes the journey continuous direction Riga. The painted teacups jingle jollily in the colourful dining car.

Two English gentlemen telling black jokes for breakfast and are enjoying themselves on their matt red velour covered armchairs. Optimistically they combine their herringbone pants with colourful vintage shirts and tweed jackets. The conductor stumps over the floral carpet and his his metallic buttons reflect cheekily the honey-coloured sunlight. At the regular stop in Warsaw a group of young Polish, female musicians is blown in. Bleached out Baltic patterns are dancing on their wide, feminine skirts as they shake the snowflakes of their furry coats. Their eclectic style of mixing and matching reflects unbridled love for life.

Missoni A/W 10-11

COLOURS Iced fruit tones in peach, raspberry and gooseberry join a light pearl grey. Middle shades of noble liquors like cognac and kir royal reflect French savoir-vivre. Peacock green decorates the hibernal mood and nutty brown tones complete the ethnic palette. fabrics Woollen patterns, big or small, classic or colourful show a rich selection of coloured woven fabrics. The surfaces are voluminous, lightly washed or cuddly brushed. The checks are reduced in colour and chalk effects. Cotton surfaces have a matt vintage touch like inherited rarities.

Grandma’s brocade jackets are transformed to bags. Jersey combinations are revivingly sexy by flowing silky qualities. Abstract paisleys and tiny tapestry motives in retro designs invigorate men’s shirts and feminine dresses.

RTWMenswear Trend Directions A/W 2010-11

hyper real New ecology and high tech collide. Visions are turned future in a digital reality. New ideas for recycling and material research offer innovative opportunities. Progressive architecture teaches us how to handle surprising new and old shapes and materials.

Qualities for active sports are streamlined and ultra smooth. They show awareness for origin in a functional way. Intelligent studies on “Green Construction� show dream landscapes and buildings that appear real today. Unusual fabrics play with experimental shapes and silhouettes: asymmetrical, extreme, redesigned, blown up or with misplaced proportions.

Future today means trust in the modernity. The sparkling inventive talent is affected by ecologic and social sustainability. A digital lifestyle is in the same demand as organic products.

COLOURS A multi layered, nocturnal, industrial scintillation of headlights reflect the metallic cleanness of coloured varnishes.

Neutral tones of building facades in browns and grey build the base colours. Technical colorants in sulphate yellow, chlorophyll green, bright orange-red and intense turquoise accentuate this neo-natural world. fabrics Natural materials like bamboo and cellulose are used as well as major technical synthetics in Kevlar and carbon mixes. Mixes of cotton and polyamide create a solid substance for active uses.

Functional textiles with membranes or functions hidden in finishes are innovative in lighter qualities. Adhering two different fabrics merge nature and techniques. Surfaces and prints imitate 3-D. Space patterns are structured, dynamic and multi-coloured.

Emporio Armani A/W 10-11

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RTWMenswear Trend Directions A/W 2010-11

sonic youth

denim & sportswear

The powerful aura of old industrial installation with their esthetical and functional charm creates the ground for an arising blimpish atmosphere of departure. A quiet wave of energy vibrates in the veins, driven by an unruly will and the willingness to step out on the street and make visions reality.

Behind loud demands are a strong opinion and future-oriented ideologies. This movement breaks established systems and points the direction to a new order. New Rave, Post Punk and Noise Rock provide sonorous and physical discharge. Teenage looks of protest demonstrate autonomy and independence. Stephen Sprouse, an 80ies fashion artist, inspires shapes and motives of the factory design.

D&G A/W 10-11

COLOURS The light grey hues of zinc and the concrete of old factories appear in a used and brittle style. Metallic shades inspired by the battered copper of guitar strings or the matt, greenish bronze of Hi-Hats. Drum kits go together with the polished green of old circuit boards. Washed out steel blue stands next to real “Bleu de Nîmes” and intense spray paint blue.

Vivienne Westwood A/W 10-11

fabrics Heavy materials of work wear from the mines are rigidly constructed and are used for clean cuts. The finishes of leather remind of a heavy apron at a furnace. Strong washes and heavy scrub effects show authentic used-looks of the heavy industry. Laser finishes create concerted attritions for retro styles and make originals from denims. Rocking cigarette shapes stay and show of graphic stripes. The ply of wider jeans cuts plays with softer and lighter materials.

Hidden shiny elements of polyester and viscose additions are shining through in a metallic, feminine way. Chrome reflexes or looks of liquid quicksilver are used for prints.

RTW S/S 2011

paris Fashion Week

Francisco Van Benthum S/S 2011

RTWMenswear paris fashion week S/S 2011

Francisco van Benthum Van Benthum’s “BRAVE” collection takes inspiration from the army uniform in different appearances from different decades; the historical battle dress to the high-tech snipers utility gear.

Van Benthum fascinates the ‘clever’ construction and technical solutions, invented from practical perspectives.

The silhouette and the colour palette include different shades of army green, white, grey, beige to anthracite and black, underlining the image of the brave young soldier. The collection includes suits, pants and coats, completed with shirts and tops. Fabrics are light summery: cool wool, coated linen, cotton melanges, Swiss cotton poplins, coated silk and raffia.

Photos: Peter Stigter

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RTWMenswear paris fashion week S/S 2011

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GUSTAVO LINS

Photos: Marleen Daniels

Gustavo Lins succeeds in destabilising the form and proportions of each type of garment to obtain a refined silhouette, free of superfluous details. The rigour of military and civilian “tailoring” is rethought and deconstructed, to lighten the structure of each garment.

Light colours dominate with ranges of whites, greys and blacks occasionally alternating with the vibrancy of a Citreous yellow, Guava pink or Jaffa orange. The materials are fresh wool, cotton poplin, glazed linen, fine-knit woollens and leather. Conceptualising new textures, Gustvo introduces the couturier’s pattern canvas with multiple construction lines and highlights them with structureenhancing topstitching.

With a plenty of industrial metamorphosis, Kris Van Assche’s 12th collection has a working man’s uniform palette with white, grey and black hues. The collection showcased at a space fueled with steel, concrete and rawness depicts bold lines, monochromes and gently fitting fabrics. With powder dusted or inked or blotched garments, the clothes combine a mixture of unstructured broken tailoring with raw edges. With large tunics, waistcoats and sleeves rolled up to work, the men wore messenger bags, tool belts and safety shoes for accessories.

Photos: Patrice Stable

kris van assche

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RTWMenswear paris fashion week S/S 2011

SMALTO

Photos: Marleen Daniels

The artistic director, Youn Chong Bak takes the work of the iconoclastic architect Gaudí as a resonance chamber, as unusual as it is fascinating. The colour ambiance is derived from the aquatic and plant universe: deep navy blues and seaweed greens brush against the cloudy softness of natural coral and almond green; pastel and mineral colours are played off by brick-red, violet or bronze reflections. Knitwear is pistol painted to give a washed and used effect; poplins are in overdyed colours.

The silhouette is purified with technical exploit: top stitched double lapel and buttoned rounded pocket.

Youn creates pieces which have the potential of becoming essential basics.

Viktor & Rolf S/S 2011 “Monsieur” Collection is influenced by the elegant 1940’s seaside glamour. The Dutch duo create a relaxed chic look that mixes structured with unstructured. A 1940’s-style jacket, with a longer length and sharp shoulders is seen paired with tight-fitting trousers as the most important new silhouette. Quirky tailoring and unusual prints, a pair of sunglasses give the models a smart, young and elegant look. Crystal decorated lapels and belted jackets and coats add a bit of glamour.

Turquoise aqua shade highlights the beige, offwhite and browns.

Photos: Patrice Stable

Viktor & Rolf

RTW S/S 2011

milan Fashion Week

Bottega Veneta S/S 2011

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RTWMenswear milan fashion week S/S 2011

Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta’s S/S 2011 Men’s ready-to-wear collection continues its exploration of the space in a man’s wardrobe between casual and formal. The collection is breezy but focused, balanced between the technical rigor of athletic apparel and the refined technique of classically tailored men’s wear.

Burberry Prorsum The quintessentially British brand, Burberry Prorsum focuses on two outerwear garments: the trend coat and biker jackets for their S/S 2011 collection. The more English than punk collection is heavily accessorised with rock & roll heritage biker attitude. The trench coats adorn leather and buckle details while most biker jackets are decorated with studs. Black leather trousers complete the new look.

Double breasted coats keep the spirit alive.

RTWMenswear milan fashion week S/S 2011

Costume National The designer behind the label, Ennio continues the monochrome minimalism that he has perfected, in light grey, white and beige tones with hints of a bright summer 2011. Uniform styled outfits highlight techno tailoring which is less about hi tech fabrics and more about experimental tailoring, mixed with futuristic feelings.

Etro Etro’s S/S 11 collection, “The Tree of Life and the Paisley” is India - inspired by paisley design represented in western culture by the beech, oak and ash tree.

The jackets are light, almost weightless, georgette and gauzy silk shirts are in pastel hues of watercolours and paisley camouflage.

Dustcoats in super-lightweight nylon are lined with crêpede-chine Paisley. Suits are raised with uplifted shoulders.

Colour and materials flow from collars and cuffs.

Printed, jacquard and embroidered scarves and handkerchiefs are in a flux of Paisley, flowers and fruits. Etro is inspired by the ancient and brightly coloured India, for its festive elegance.

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RTWMenswear milan fashion week S/S 2011

Gianfranco Ferre The creative directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi craft a loose and comfortable look, relying heavily on white, khaki tones and different shades of blue to paint their aesthetic vision for Gianfranco Ferre’s S/S 11 collection. Combined with Ferré’s parasol hat, the double-breasted jackets dominate the look.

John Varvatos John Varvatos, America’s Most Rock ‘n’ Roll designer goes strong with his S/S ’11 collection as a continuation of his rock lifestyle brand.

The inspiration comes from the rock ‘n’ roll gentleman leaving the city and going to the countryside is much more relaxed but still is chic and cool. Grey remains the main colour with the palette moving towards a subtle mixture of light blue, khaki and moss green. Nehrucollared suede jacket is a mature direction but an array of multi-layered cardigans, combined with signature scarves loosens the look.

RTW S/S 2011

events Fashion Trade

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RTWMenswear events

Bread & Butter The international leading tradeshow for Street and Urbanwear, more than lived up to its motto “Premier League: best brands, best buyers, best business” in all aspects.

Apart from an outstanding brand portfolio, a qualitative increase in international trade visitors could again be registered, who used the BREAD & BUTTER as business platform in their segment on the grounds of the historical airport Berlin-Tempelhof.

Emotional frame of the three event days was the football World Cup, which served as a fixed part of the event concept since the start of the season. At the especially built B&B Premier League stadium on the open airfield, 9,000 guests watched the game Spain vs. Germany on a 68 sqm big LED screen as well as on the additional screens that were set up.

The tradeshow is set as international event in Berlin and cannot be missed. This is proven by the presence of many greats from other countries including the buyer team of Selfridges, Harrods, de Bijenkorf and Colette. Retailers from Dubai, Japan, Australia as well as from the US-department store Macy’s were present as the whole group found their way to Berlin this time.

The Sport & Street emerged as a major aspect as a very individualized segment, very art inspired, culture driven – where creative minds express their individuality and their attitude towards life.

RTWMenswear Events

Modefabriek A fresh perspective on design. Modefabriek successfully brings together all the different fashion disciplines to create a comprehensive overall impression.

July 2010 edition of Modefabriek had a positive outlook filled with expectant anticipation. The atmosphere was exceptionally energetic with its 600-plus high-quality labels and a versatile and varied side programme of experimental attractions. The essential highlights were the catwalk shows from 10 feet, Ikks and Strellson. Grand opening shows by the promising designers at Cutting Edge and Next also attracted major attention and drew large crowds.

Displays included the colourful graphic designs of Belle Sauvage, innovative kaleidoscopic art by Leonie Smelt, the lovely, pure aesthetics of the collection sets from Sober, the inspiring work by renowned designer Martin BergstrĂśm and the groundbreaking androgynous designs from Maldador. The denim laboratory created an absolute visual and interactive denim experience with ingenious denim creations and rugged, innovative experiments.

With the wood exhibition, Modefabriek has managed to create a fantastic mix of fashion, design and innovation and has found another outlet for the desire for pure and authentic design. The pieces demonstrate classic, fundamental materials that can be incorporated into surprising modern designs.

The brands in this year’s summer edition were very varied and extremely well-balanced. By assembling a range of hundreds of new collections, Modefabriek created a complete brand and trend experience. The brands were divided into six segments: classic, international, frontrunners, cosmopolitan menswear, highend women’s design and jeans.

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RTWMensWeaR evenTs

pitti Uomo 77 Evolution And Transformation. As the world of fashion changes, under the impact of new consumer trends, buyers make selections that are very precise and focused.

Pitti Uomo is always blazing new trails and reacting vigorously to market transformations by revolutionizing its fair layout. At this edition the Main Pavilion has a new look that changes the overall look of the fair itself and confirms its mission as a place for research, experimentation and innovation. The fair is the platform where top buyers come to find established brands and emerging names; it is also the strongest context for the vendors in terms of showing their merchandise and promoting their image.

This edition’s fashion agenda was performances by two of the most talented designers on the scene today and tomorrow – Umit Benan and Max Kibardin, winners of the first edition of ‘WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO’. The fair presented the new edition of Pitti W Woman Recollections that has its foot on the fashion accelerator and hosted a brilliant and unpredictable events.

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Issue Date November 2010

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RTWMenswear folio

Engineered Leather Porsche Design presents its third fashion collection for F/W 2010/2011. The luxury brand is once again relying on its proven success factors: a classic, timeless line combined with high functionality.

Characterised by high quality fabrics and outstanding craftsmanship, the exclusive item of this collection is a leather jacket made of handwoven nappa lambskin, limited to 200 pieces worldwide. The new products will be available from Porsche Design stores and franchise stores worldwide from August 2010.

A Dream to Touch The stand-out limited edition travel bag from Meisterstück Soft, Montblanc´s latest collection of men´s leather goods made its debut in July 2010. Predominantly conceived from Italian lambskin and lined with natural hair, this alluring combination of luxuriant, natural materials exemplifies the sumptuousness. Its appeal is a butter-soft touch belying its durability and resilience while shearling and lambskin - from which the aviator jacket is traditionally made - evoke travel and adventure.

Writing instrument craftsmanship Celebrating the world´s biggest airliner - the Airbus 380, Montblanc has developed a Limited Edition - Skeleton A 380 in collaboration with Airbus. Limited to only 380 pieces, the edition is crafted of 750 solid white gold with platinum-plated fittings. The transparent dark blue precious resin windows mirror the double row of windows on the aircraft.

The instrument is enhanced with 15 diamonds on the cap ring and a further 12 diamonds on the cone and cap top. The Montblanc emblem in 750 solid white gold at the top of the cap reflects the nose of the A 380.

Deepest Design Source The Swiss brand, Tag Heuer’s latest luxury design achievement this year is the new Aquaracer 500M Chronograph and Aquaracer 500M Full Black watch. The automatic chronograph (44MM) more than meets the requirements. The first chronograph in the Aquaracer 500M series, its robust, fully functional design addresses very specific demands — great visibility and easy handling under water, extreme resilience, and safety features you can count on.

Parfums pour lui Gucci Pour Homme is a Woody Chypre scent that has Heart Notes of Juniper, Violet Leaves, Jasmine and Nutmeg.

It is a contemporary fragrance that shows a whole new outlook for the modern man. These latest scents are offered

by The Perfume Shop, UK’s largest specialist fragrance retailer with 179 shops nationwide selling all major designer fragrance brands.