Dog Grooming Courses @ Anrich Theory by James Weston

SETTING THE STANDARD IN DOG GROOMING COURSES

Official Course Brochure

CONTENTS 01

CANINE ANATOMY

HAND STRIPPING CONT.

CANINE ANATOMY CONT.

HAND STRIPPING CONT.

ASSESSMENTS/PRE-WORK

HANDLING DOGS

BATHING/DRYING

HANDLING DOGS CONT.

NAIL CARE

HANDLING DOGS CONT.

TRIMMING THE NAILS

NORMAL APPEARANCE

HANDLING THE PET FOR NAIL TRIMMING

PRICE LIST

TRIMMING PADS

QUESTION PAPER

EAR PLUCKING & CLEANING

QUESTION PAPER

SANITARY TRIMMING

QUESTION PAPER

ANAL GLANDS

INSTRUCTIONS CARD

FOUNDATION SKILLS

RELEASE FORM

CONSENT FORM

RESTRAINT TECHNIQUES

COURSE CONTENT

RESTRAINT TECHNIQUES

EARS

TAIL DOCKING

NAILS

WHY GROOMING MATTERS

HAND STRIPPING

DIAGRAMS

HAND STRIPPING CONT.

CANINE ANATOMY Whether a Yorkshire Terrier, a Great Dane, a Bulldog or a Dachshund - all dogs possess identical bone and muscle structure. Fundamentally, they are all the same. The domestic dog is a man made creature developed from generations of carefully controlled breading practices. We have created dogs to assist us in many daily functions. Many breeds still excel at their original functions or jobs, such as herding, hunting or tracking. As times changed, some were no longer required to perform their initial role, even though the breed itself remains with us today. Other breeds have developed an ability in other activities that allow them to continue to assist man. In order to safely handle a dog for grooming, you need to understand basic anatomy and individual breed standards. Your familiarity with its natural limitation of movement can make grooming much more comfortable for the pet. When the pet is comfortable, it is much more willing to cooperate. Understanding key pressure points and holds allows both the pet and the stylist the greatest degree of safety through the entire grooming process.

ASSESSMENTS No matter the dog, the first step in grooming is to assess the pets overall condition. Do the skin and coat appear healthy? Does the pet have foul odor? Does the skin appear red or inflamed? Does the pet scratch or itch? Are parasites present? Is the coat oily, dry or limp? Is this an active, outdoor dog or a pampered lap dog? Is the pet bathed regular, or is this the first visit to you in 6 months? The condition that you find will help you communicate to the owner what you can or cannot do for their pet on the day.

PRE-WORK When a stylist talks about pre-work, he or she is normally referring to a series of steps that are essential to all professional grooming procedures. Assessing the overall condition of the pet Bathing Drying Trimming nails Trimming pads Plucking and cleaning ears Clearing the sanitary areas Checking anal glands De-matting

BATHING Bathing is the foundation of good grooming. Getting a pet really clean is the only way to produce a top quality trim. Bathing also helps you match the correct products to the skin and coat conditions for the best end result - a clean pet whose coat is properly prepared for grooming and styling.

DRYING Getting a pet dry can be achieved by a combination of methods. These include : Towel drying, High velocity drying, Kennel drying, Natural air drying, Hand fluff or Stretch drying. The method or combination of methods chosen, is based on producing the optimum result for the finished style, coupled with speed and efficiency.

NAIL CARE Long nails are more than just unsightly, they also present a potential healthy problem. Unattended nails may grow long enough to cause the entire tendon and bone structure of the foot and pastern to break down. From an aesthetic point of view, nails that are too long make it impossible to trim a perfectly styled foot shape, because the long nails disfigure the rounded line of the foot. Unattended dew claws will curve back into the pad causing a puncture wound that is painful and prone to infection.

TRIMMING THE NAILS The nails should be trimmed back as far as possible without causing excessive bleeding. If the nails are only "tipped", the quick will continue to grow farther out into the nail, eventually making it impossible to obtain a healthy, short nail. Trimming a white nail is fairly easy, for the pink of the quick can be easily seen. Place your trimmer at the point where the pink stops. Commit to your spot and quickly make your cut. Black nails are more challenging as the quick cannot be seen from the outside. Start by taking the hook off the nail. Now look at the end of the nail. There will be a darker black circle in the middle of the nail. This is the blood vessel, but not the part that bleeds. continue to cut off small sections until that dark circle covers most of the nail bed. Once you have gotten to a small white dot at the centre, this is as far as you can trim without cutting into the quick. Once a length is established for one nails, use this as a guide for trimming the rest. On most dogs the rear nails are shorter than the front because the rear foot is the point of power and drive - they push off with their rear legs, digging into the ground and naturally wearing them down.

HANDLING THE PET FOR NAIL TRIMMING Some dogs are totally fine having their nails trimmed, other dogs dislike it with a passion, and others will tolerate it somewhere in between. Always use a noose restraint as a safety precaution. The correct tension on the noose should have enough slack so the dog can stand comfortably in a natural position, but does not give free movement around the grooming table. Always start at the back on the dog, watch for a reaction after trimming one of the rear nails. If there is no reaction, continue trimming the rest. If a mildly adverse reaction is noted, continue with caution in a calm but authoritative manner, using the noose to its full advantage. Work quickly and low to the table. If the pet reacts strongly, stop and muzzle it. Continue in a calm manner. Make sure that once you grasp a foot you maintain control. If a dog pulls away, it learns bad habits and "wins" so hold on. Brace your hand against the table to help maintain control. This technique will help keep the dogs foot low and relieve unnecessary strain on its shoulders and hips.

TRIMMING PADS Most dogs, other than really fine, short coated dogs, grow and excessive amount of hair between the pads of the feet. Taking the coat short in this area removes dirt and matting and also allows the dogs to obtain grip on slippery surfaces that would normally be hindered due to the hair covering the pads. Trimming the pads also allows you to identify skin problems or even foreign bodies that are easily trapped amongst the hair ( grass seeds, stones, food etc ) From a professional standpoint, untrimmed foot pads indicate an unfinished groom job and a stylist who ignores the finer points of the craft.

ORE BEF AFTE R

EAR PLUCKING & CLEANING All dogs need to have their ears inspected and gently cleaned. On some breeds, hair grows down inside the ear canal. That hair should be removed so that air can circulate. Failure to remove the hair can cause serious ear infections due to the canal not being able to "breathe" This is return causes the natural production of wax to stick to this hair, and as this build up grows, is blocks up the ear canal. With it now being a warm environment, bacteria is able to grow and multiply, resulting in possible infection and discomfort. Removal of the ear hair at every groom will reduce the risk of this happening.

BEFORE

AFTER

SANITARY TRIMMING In pet grooming, the sanitary areas are generally considered to be the areas under the tail, the groin area, in between the eyes and in front of the ear canal on pets with drop ears. These areas are prone to collect natural discharge from the pet. Some dogs need to have the sanitary area trimmed, others do not. Typical candidates for bath and brush type work - such as Labrador retrievers, collies, shepherds and other similar coated breeds - have very little need for artificial trimming in these areas, especially the head and facial regions. These breeds are normally left in their natural state unless there is a condition that requests differently. If the pet is normally a candidate for full body styling, then the sanitary areas are clipped closely with a very light hand.

ANAL GLANDS These glands, or sacs, are located under the tail on either side of the rectum and a contain foul smelling substance that most dogs pass naturally when they have a bowel movement. Sometimes these sacs need to be expressed. A question arises as to whether they should be expressed during the grooming process or whether they should be left for a veterinarian. At the very least, it is important for the stylist to check the glands for any signs of abnormality. Anything unusual should be brought to the attention of the pet owner. If you decide to express these glands, during the bathing is the best time as any substance expressed, can be quickly and easily washed away. Guidance for emptying the anal glands should always demonstrated and explained by a qualified veterinary personnel.

FOUNDATION SKILLS These skills are the foundation of all grooming. Every pet owner faces a choice when it comes to grooming : Use a professional service. Do the job themselves. Don't have the pet groomed at all. Grooming a dog correctly is not something you can just ''pick up''. It is a skill carefully mastered after many months and years of practice and experience. Never underestimate the value of strong foundation skills. These are the basis of your career and your professional worth to the caring pet owner. They form the building blocks of a long and successful career as a professional pet stylist. MASTER THESE SKILLS TO A FAULT.

Owner: Address: Date:

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DOG GROOMING CONSENT FORM Animal: Weight: Breed: Age: Sex: Colour:

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Contact telephone number for today:

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GROOMING INSTRUCTIONS: 1. I request that ........... be groomed in accordance with the above grooming instructions. I request the ears to be plucked and nails to be clipped. 2. ........... was last vaccinated ............. 3. I do / do not wish a microchip implanted at a cost of £.......... 4. .............. was treated for fleas on ......... with ......... 5. I wish .............. to be supplied with flea treatment at a cost of £........ 6. I have been quoted £....... and agree to pay this on collection. If there are any problems requiring treatment, I understand I will be quoted and charged for this separately. Signed by Owner:................................... or Agent: ....................................... Agents name...................................... Whilst every effort is made to achieve the visual effect that the owner is looking for and expecting, it is often difficult to achieve this on the first clip. The clipper at Dog Grooming at Anrich promises to use full diligence in trying to interpret the wishes of the owner. We will take a photograph before and after grooming to attempt to achieve this. Notes will be made as required on the record if expectations are not achieved in order to improve the result at the next visit. We accept no responsibility, however, if the instructions written above are carried out but not, perhaps, as the owner had mentally visualised.

COURSE CONTENT Grooming Healthy and Safety Salon Set-Up Suitable Clothing Hygiene Handling and Control Anatomy of the Dog Pre-Work Examinations and Assessments Bathing and Drying Techniques Nail Care Ear Care Clipping Scissoring Styling De-Matting Hand Stripping / Carding Pet Trims V's Show Trims Breed Recognition Coat Types Cost of Grooming

Equipment Understanding Tools and Equipment Care and Maintenance Sharpening Hygiene and Sterilisation Healthy and Safety Electrical and Water Safety Customer Care Setting Up Your Business Advertising Understanding Customer Needs Customer Records Handling Customer Complaints Basic Veterinary Knowledge Fleas, Ticks and Worms Skin Problems Wounds First Aid Haemorrhaging Diseases

EARS

NAILS

HAND STRIPPING What Is It? Handstripping is a technique performed in order to maintain proper coat texture of many harsh, broken or flat coated breeds. This technique allows the particular breed to maintain its full colour, texture and waterproof qualities. Stripping literally means to pull out the dead coat from the roots in order to promote new growth to come through, of the harsh texture and strong, rich colour. Stripping V's Clipping Clipping the coat will cause it to change completely, and will over time lead to a continual growth patter, as apposed to a completely new growth spout. Clipping will also in lead to a change in texture and colour, resulting to a much softer, lighter coat. Stripping keeps the coat to breed standard and remains all the features necessary for that particular dog and the job it was bred for. When To Strip When the coat is ready to be pulled out, it is referred to as a "blown" coat. This process will correspond with the dogs natural cycle of hormonal and enviromental changes. Typically, in order to be performed by a groomer in a salon enviroment, it is normally recommended to wait until the full body coat is ready to be done. This means you will normally only see the dog 2-3 times a year maximum. Obviously the coat will be ready to come out at different stages, so owners who carry out this procedure themselves will just tackle the areas that have "blown" bit by bit as they become ready, keeping the dog neat and tidy all of the time. Owners who prefer to send their dogs to a professional to carry out this procedure will have to persevere through the scruffy period, so that the dog can have the full coat stripped in one session. Because of this scruffy period, some owners chose to have them clipped instead so that they are always tidy and can be maintained every 2 months, as apposed to twice a year.

Pros & Cons The option to clip is fully understandable, and as long as the client is aware that clipping will in time, lead to the coat becoming damaged and unlike the breed standard, then this is their decision ultimately. If clipping is the desired choice, then please be aware that the option to strip after this is taken away. A clipped coat is a damaged coat and therefore cannot be reversed. A lot of people have a misguided view that handstripping is cruel and will hurts the dog. This is very untrue. If the coat is ready and fully "blown" then this procedure will cause no discomfort to the dog. As the coat is already dead and starting to fall out, all we are doing is helping it on its way and removing it fully. It will take a long time to handstrip a dog, the process in time consuming and tedious and you may find the dogs may get a little fed up towards the end but this if fully understandable, they are going to be on the table being worked on for a good couple of hours. Clipping the dog will take away this stress and do the job in half the time. Another point to consider if the client is unsure which procedure is best for their dog. All in all : Handstripping is best for keeping the coat in the best possible condition, but is very time consuming and taxing for the dog and groomer. Clipping will in time ruin the coat but is a quicker process for the dog and can be done more regular to keep tidy. Cost Due to the fact that handstripping takes twice as long as clipping, you need to be looking at charging double the price for any dog that wants this done as apposed to clipping. Again remember that you will only be seeing the dog about twice a year, so it will work out to the client the same as if they were to bring the dog 4 times a year for clipping.

Tools for the job Stripping knives - Chalk powder - Finger thimbles / runner gloves - Furminator - Thinning shears Process Of Handstripping Always strip an unwashed, dirty coat and carry out the full handstrip procedure prior to bathing. It is much easier to grip a dirty coat that has fully blown, than to work with a soft, clean, fluffy one. The use of chalk powder as a gripping aid if preferred, will also need to be washed out, so again, bath the dog to remove residue after the full strip has been completed. In order to handstrip correctly, it requires a gentle momentum and rhythm to remove the hair. You should never have to apply brute force in order to get the hair out. If it is not pulled out easily, it is either because you are pulling too big a piece at once, or because the coat is not ready to come out. Try selecting small amounts of hair at one time. If it is still not coming out easily, the coat is not ready and should be left a couple more weeks to see if it changes in time. Using your thumb and index finger, pull out a few hairs at a time to shape the coat and accentuate the dogs natural outline. Work methodically and always in the direction of the coat growth. NEVER pull the coat in the opposite direction, this will be uncomfortable for the dog and can lead to bald patches. Keep your wrist locked and in a neutral position, and allow a rhythmic movement to stem from your shoulder, not your wrist or elbow. Repeat the process until the remaining growth of the coat, lies flat against the body, taking away all the top length. Generally the main body coat is easily removed and most pets do not mind this process. The cheeks, throat and private areas may be more sensitive, requiring the use of thinning scissors or clippers. Always clip the groin area with a 10 blade.

After the full strip has been done, all the prep work will still need to be carried out (nails, ears, pads and groin area) After the bath, the use of a pumice stone, fine stripping knife or furminator can be used to rid the coat of any remaining fine hairs that have been missed or hard to grab. This will just help to smooth the coat and give a neater finish. The finished result should always look very natural. An overly groomed look is frowned upon, so the use of thinners should be used to tidy the dog rather than straight scissors.

HANDLING DOGS ( Singers, Sitters, Collapsers, Biters, Squirmers and Squeakers ) Certain breeds have their own peculiar traits. Lhasa Apso's sing in the bath. Springer's tuck in and sit on their rumps. Bearded collies wobble in the bath. ShihTzus crumple into rag dolls on the table. Cockers hate their feet being trimmed. Collies hate their rear ends being de-matted. Westies are never keen having their claws cut, and even the nice Scotties are just plain awkward. The list goes on, but somehow at the end of a hard days work, you send them all home in one piece looking like new. A good groomer needs to be a dog (and people) psychologist, as well as a beautician. Psychology starts the minute they walk through the door. Some struggle to come over the threshold and need a lot of encouragement before they manage to make it in. For others, its best to carry them in, and for a few cases (, the "take me from my mummy and ill bite you" dogs) the owner should place the restraining noose on the dog and place him securely on the table or in a kennel, before quietly disappearing. The dogs courage usually evaporates with the owner leaving. And so to the bath - and the panickers. You know, the ones that would climb the walls to escape. Good restraint fixings on the bath are a must. A calm helping hand is required to control the dog while the shower heats up. Gently start the spray at the back of the dog, holding the nozzle close to the coat, and the dog will normally calm down. Some take great exception to having their heads washed, hold the dogs muzzle gently but firmly while spraying very close to the face. Use a tearless shampoo and avoid getting water up the dogs nose by holding the dogs head. Those dogs that will not stand to be bathed will gradually come to their feet when confidence returns. Don't yell at the dog to stand up, you will only intimidate him further. Be patient and keep yourself calm, as well as the dog.

These panickers do not like being dried either.(They are probably the ones that disappear under the bed when mummy starts up the vacuum cleaner at home) But surprisingly, if the operation is started carefully, most dogs will tolerate being blasted. Start with the quietest speed at the back of the dog, giving them praise all the way. Use your free hand to help stand them up, offer reassurance and regain control. Turn the biters away from the forced air and dry them from behind. Work close to the skin with the drier nozzle and don't point it at them like a gun. Many new puppies are afraid of clippers buzzing around their ears or head, and the snipping of scissors are a menace. Take a little time to help them over this fear by acclimatizing them gently. If these dogs have tolerated the noise of the clipper, try keeping it running (without a blade on) while touching the dog in the area they are sensitive to. Once settled, load the blade onto the clipper and repeat the action, starting from an area on the dog they have not been bothered by, and slowly working back up to the problem area. Try your best, but it may be possible to scissor parts that are impossible to clip without risk of injury to the dog. Most dog will be better on the second or third visit if you are gentle. Many dogs do not like their muzzle being held. Westies have developed the "claw-your-arm-off" technique to stop you trimming their faces. Ask their owners to handle them more around the face, even without a brush in their hand. Just for them to fuss and give praise can make a dog easier to handle on its next visit.

The collapsers, sitters and dancers can be groomed by using a body strap to hold up the rear end, but if you can, get them to stand unaided for as much of the groom as possible, as it is much nicer for the dog and easier for the groomer in the long term. Usually this behavior is caused by fearfulness or discomfort. Scolding is not the answer, it only heightens the dogs fear. Try getting the owner to teach the dog to "stand" on command, that way it will understand what you mean when you say it. Do not press on the dogs rump when you clip over it, support the dog underneath by using your free hand, the dog will be less likely to sit. For the dogs that keep collapsing, use a slow, gentle, upward movement, in their groin area and allow them to find their feet. Don't use quick, jolting movements to get them stood up fast, as this will only panic the dog more, and make them less likely to stand unaided. Again, stay calm and don't shout at them. Handling dogs is all down to patience, control., and consistent correction. Reading the dogs behavior and body language is a big indication of the action to use to help the situations.

NORMAL APPEARANCE OF AN ANIMAL Bright eyes Clear nasal passages, free of any discharge Clean odour free ears Healthy teeth, odour free Pink mucous membranes, with capillary refill time of 1-2 seconds Shiny coat, free from wounds, parasites and tumours. No dandruff, bald patches or scabs Suitable weight for breed size, no sign of muscle wastage or obesity Bright and alert, reacts to stimuli Free limb movement Clean vulva / penis / anus - free from discharge Clear yellow urine, passed without difficulty Firm brown faeces, passed freely without straining or pain Correct temperature : 38.3 - 38.7 *C

PRICE LIST Toy Dogs - 20.00 +

Large Dogs - 40.00 +

Puppies Yorkie Maltese Chihuahua Pomeranian

German shepherd Rough Collie Old English Sheepdog Setters Standard Schnauzer

Small Dogs - 25.00 +

Scissor Cuts - 50.00 + Hand strips

Westie Border Terrier KCCS Cairn Terrier Shih Tzu / Lhasa Apso Medium Dogs - 30.00 + Cocker Spaniel Springer Spaniel Min Schnauzer Border Collie Golden Retriever

Poodle Bichon Border Terrier

QUESTION PAPER 1) Name 4 types of Collie 2) Name 3 sizes of Poodle 3) What is the difference between a Norfolk Terrier and a Norwich Terrier 4) Name 4 types of Setter 5) What group does the Maltese Terrier come under 6) Name the breed of Welsh Corgi that has a naturally long tail 7) Name 3 long legged terriers and 3 short legged terriers 8) Name the terrier breed with the head said to resemble an otter 9) State the number of groups in the kennel club breed classification 10) Name each group and a dog that belongs to each one 11) Name the largest breed in the Kennel Club terrier group 12) Name the breed sometimes referred to as the "butterfly dog"

QUESTION PAPER 1) Name 2 breeds of dog that require to be dried straight 2) Name 2 coat types of a dachshund 3) State the difference between carding and hand stripping 4) State the advantages and disadvantages of stripping. Give 3 reasons for each 5) Name other breeds other than terriers that can be handstripped 6) Name 5 different coat types, and a breed to represent each one 7) Name the 4 colour options of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 8) Name the 3 sizes of poodle 9) State 2 reasons for clearing the hair between the pads of the feet 10) State why you always clip the nails before triming the foot

QUESTION PAPER 1) State the dangers of leaving a dog unattended on a table. 2) Name 2 parts of the dog that should be protected from the penetration of water. 3) State 5 visable signs for healthy and hygiene to check for. 4) Give 2 reasons why its beneficial to trim the hair between the pads. 5) What action should be taken to stop bleeding in the event of the quick being cut. 6) State the difference between prescription and non prescription shampoos. 7) State what each of the following tools are required for: *Guillotine clippers

*Forceps

*Slicker brush

*Thinning Scissors

8) Stare for what purpose the use of the following would be recommended: *Insecticidal shampoo

*Medicated shampoo

*General purpose shampoo

9) Describe briefly 3 precautions to prevent a dog escaping during transportation. 10) Give 3 reasons why it is important to groom out a matted coat before bathing. 11) State 3 benefits of having a high velocity blaster. 12) State why it is essential to trim dew claws when trimming dogs nails. 13) State briefly the conditions that cause scissors and blades to rust in the salon. 14) State 2 reasons why a dog should be fluff dried. 15) State the correct way to hold scissors. 16) Why should the head of the dog be washed last. 17) State 2 benefits of having a hydraulic table in the salon.

Business Name ........................... Business Address ....................... Business Tel No .......................... Business Website ....................... Owners Name ............................... Pets Name ..................... Address ....................................... Breed ............................. Tel No ........................................... Colour ............................ Sex ........... Neutered....... Age ................................ Weight ........................... Client's Vets ................... Micro chipped - Yes / No Last Vaccinated .............. Flea Treated .................... Wormed .......................... Notes / Allergies / Special Requirements ............................ Temperament ........................................................................ Date

Grooming Instructions

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DOG GROOMING RELEASE FORM Admitted By

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Dog Groomer

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Discharged By

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Start Time

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Finish Time

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Type of clip

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Skin Condition

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Ears

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Teeth

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Nails

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Anal Glands

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Fleas

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Next apt.

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I have examined .............. on collection and I am / am not entirely satisfied with the end result. I have been advised to have ............ clipped again on .............. My comments regarding the clip as are follows: ......................................................................................................................................................... ......................................................................................................................................................... .................................................................

Signed by Owner:................................... or Agent: .......................................

RESTRAINT TECHNIQUES Remember that no dog is completely predictable. You will be working with your face near to the dogs and will not be concentrating fully on any danger signs they may give. A well fitting muzzle is not uncomfortable for the dog to wear. Collars, haltis and harnesses are available for all sizes of dog. Used with a lead they provide and convenient and relatively safe point from which to restrain the animal, as well as providing a psychological calming effect. Every dog should have a collar and lead. The collar should fit tightly enough that the dog cannot pull it off, but not sufficiently tight that you cannot get a hand between the neck and the collar. Never leave a dog tied up in a place where it can hang itself. Kennels should be large enough for the animal to stand up and turn around in, with a secure lock. Do not remove the lead when putting a dog in a kennel ; kennel guarding behavior is difficult to deal with if there are no means of restraint. If faced with this situation, a dog catcher is the safest solution. There are 3 main types of muzzles: Bandage / Fabric / Cage Bandage: These consist of a long piece of bandage with a knot tied in the middle to weigh it down. Another knot is tied but this is left loose so that it forms a loop through which the dogs nose can be passed through. Once the nose has been looped through, this knot is tightened on top of the nose. A third loop is then made and tied under the dogs chin. Followed by the ends being taken up and tied behind the dogs ears. Although fairly easy to apply and hard to remove when applied properly, this type of muzzle will not always stop a dog opening its mouth. It is therefore recommended that a cage muzzle is put on over the top.

Fabric: These muzzled are easy to apply and particularly comfortable for the dog to wear. However, unless the fit is very good, the dog can still nip with its incisors. Although unlikely to cause serious injury, this can still be painful. Fabric muzzles are available in a range of sizes and shapes to suit most breeds. Short nosed dogs like the Shih Tzu and Pug will need a specially fitted head muzzles to cover the mouth, as a regular muzzle will slip off. Cage: These are the most secure types of muzzles. A cage with a secondary barrier helps keep the incisors well away from the flesh. As with all muzzles, they tend to be most secure with the long - nosed breeds. They also allow the dog to still open their mouth and breath normally, minimizing the stress of feeling restrained. Ideally you could ask the owner to apply the muzzle themselves. The dog knows them and is far less likely to react to them in a hostile manner. If they cant do it, they have rather a cheek expecting you to be able to. Take extra care if the dog has a history of breathing problems, but in this situation we would advise that you consult the vet first before doing anything to it anyway. The convenience of having somebody else hold the dog whilst you groom it, particularly sensitive areas such as the face, ears and feet, cannot be overemphasized. Obviously it will not normally be possible to have two people to each dog, but two groomers who help each other with the difficult bits will be more efficient than trying to deal with a awkward dog by themselves. Make sure anyone holding an animal for you is confident and competent to handle the animal. Table restraints are essential for keeping dogs still on the table whilst grooming. Many animals are more relaxed if they feel pressure on their lead. Dogs should never be left attached to these devises unguarded - there is a risk of them jumping off and either choking to death or breaking their necks.

TAIL DOCKING The Docking of Working Dogs Tails ( England ) Regulations 2007 state that puppies of exempted breeds may be docked within the first 5 days of life by a qualifies veterinary surgeon ONLY. Exempted breeds are * Hunt point retrieve breeds * Spaniels *Terriers *Crosses of these breeds In order for puppies to be docked the owner must have presented sufficient evidence to the vet that they will, in all probability, be worked. Scotland has a complete ban on tail docking and as of this year Northern Ireland has rules similar to our own. The main point for this information is to make sure all puppies are checked for docking and that we see the appropriate paperwork before microchipping those breeds that are docked. If a no exempted breed is docked it will have a passport and that is a whole new set of problems. The docked puppy needs paperwork that has the date of docking and details of the vet that performed the surgery. Docking can only take place in the first 5 days of life so its worthwhile taking time to check that the dates match up because there will be no formal identification of the puppy. Before microchipping, the paperwork also needs a statement from the owner on there.

WHY GROOMING MATTERS How often do you groom your dog? Once a week? When you cant stand the smell anymore? Never? Regardless of whether you have a long or short haired breed, grooming your dog is essential to their health. In fact it could save your dogs life. Why Frequent Grooming Matters Grooming your dog once a day ( long hair ) or several times a week ( short hair) is about more than just a shiny coat. Here are several key reasons you should be grooming your dog often: *It teaches puppies to enjoy being handles, which can prevent them from biting in the future. It also deepens your bond. * It removes dead hair, dirt and dandruff, and stimulates the oils to spread over your dogs coat, which makes it healthier and less itchy for your dog. * It prevents matts from getting down to the skin (where hot spots can form) Left alone, your dog could get maggots under the coat. * It brings attention to any cuts, scrapes, or skin conditions that may be hiding. Some of these skin conditions can be deadly if left untreated. * It allows you time to check for unusual lumps and bumps that you may not otherwise see or feel.

ENJOY THE COURSE