COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Published Weekly By Joel Sater Publications www.antiquesandauctionnews.net
VOL. 44, NO. 23 FRIDAY JUNE 14, 2013
Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Oh My! Fashion Jewelry Exhibition at Museum of Arts and Design in New York to Showcase Collection of Barbara Berger is a treasure hunt, and comEuropean couture houses pleting my collection has returned to business, the been one of the highlights increased availability of of my life,” said Berger. synthetic gemstones and “My collection features sparkling crystals opened what’s interesting to up a spectrum of new me – extraordinary, design possibilities, allowunique designs ing designers to produce imbued with fantaeven more vibrant and sy and a sense of elaborate creations. At the humor. It’s usually same time, the market and love at first sight.” appeal for costume jewelry The exhibibegan to grow. After years tion will be preof wartime austerity, sented in an elewomen developed an gant installation appetite for luxury, fantasy, Maison Gripoix, circa 2000. Floral brooch. and exuberance. And with that will celebrate Simulated turquoise stones, simulated this glorious jewthe relatively modest pearls, gold plated. elry. The first section prices of costume jewels in MAD’s jewelry (compared to gemstones ashion Jewelry: The “ gallery will survey Collection of Barbara and precious metals), women were the range of designer Berger” will be an eye- able to acquire multiple pieces, for works by the American and opening presentation of neck- daily wear as well as for evening, Barbara Berger European houses, including laces, bracelets, and earrings, and to layer many accessories Chanel, Balenciaga, Maison many of them one-of-a-kind, together in the chic, over-the-top thousand pieces, by more than Gripoix, Marcel Boucher, drawn from the world-renowned style epitomized by Chanel. “Always put on more jewelry, eighty designers, and represents Miriam Haskell and Trifari, to collection of Barbara Berger. over fifty years of col- name a few. This will showcase not Featured designers include and mix fine with costume.” — lecting,” says David only the historical relationships Kenneth Jay Lane, Lanvin, Barbara Berger M c F a d d e n , between the houses and their From swans and starbursts to Missoni, Oscar de la Renta and William and designers, but also reveal their disPucci. The exhibition will be on feathers and flowers, the couture M i l d r e d tinct signature styles and motifs. view at the Museum of Arts and jewelry in “Fashion Jewelry: The Lasdon Chief This section of the exhibition will Design (MAD) from Tuesday, Collection of Barbara Berger” C u r a t o r remain on view through January presents a stunning array June 25, through Sunday, at the 11, 2014. of extravagant pieces that September 22 (a Museum In the main gallery, work will not only portion of the be presented thematically, with celebrates exhibition Nettie pieces variously t h e w i l l Rosenstein, remain circa arranged by subject, open until 1930s–1940s. Rooster material, geograS a t u r d a y, dress clip. Colored phy, color and From January 11, enamel, rhinestones, motif. silver plated. flora and 2014).
jewelry the world has seen in decades,” says guest curator Harrice Miller. “Barbara Berger’s passion for collecting beautiful objects combined with her connoisseur’s eye has resulted in an extravagance of treasures.” Miriam Haskell, 1954. Designer: Frank Hess. Bib necklace. Glass beads, rhinestones, gold plated. A similar necklace was featured in the March 1954 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, worn by the actress Maggie McNamara.
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In conjunction with the exhibition, MAD will offer a range of educational programs, including master classes, salons, lectures, films, Open Studios artists, and other workshops. One of the highlights will be a conversation between collector Barbara Berger and jewelry historian and guest curator Harrice Miller, which will take place on Thursday, June 27, at 7pm. This event will be followed by a book signing. Books can be purchased prior to the event and are available through the Store at MAD. (Continued on page 2)
Signed Nettie Rosenstein. Iradj Moini, 1995. Lobster brooch. Czech and Austrian stones, silver plated. Signed Iradj Moini.
“Costume jewelry is not made to give women an aura of wealth, but to make them beautiful.”— Coco Chanel Popularized by fashion icons such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, costume jewelry took off as an art form in its own right in the postWorld War II era. As the
heritage of costume jewelry, but the creativity of brilliant designers and craftsmen across five decades of high fashion. The exhibition underscores the continuing popularity of couture jewelry today through stellar contemporary works from designers such as David Mandel, Iradj Moini, Robert Sorrell, Daniel Von Weinberger and Lawrence Vrba. “Barbara Berger’s extraordinary collection features over four
Coro, 1944. “Willet” tremblant bird brooch. Colored enamel, rhinestones, gold plated sterling silver. Signed Sterling by Coro. The head is on a spring and shakes when moved.
of Arts and Design. “We are delighted to display a rich assortment from this dazzling collection, a virtual encyclopedia of this exciting and provocative era of fashion history.” The daughter of an American diamond merchant, Barbara Berger began her collection of bijoux de couture when she purchased a pair of Chanel earrings at a French flea market as a teenager. Since then, she has gone on to assemble one of the largest and finest collections of couture jewelry in the world, with her collection comprised of around 4,000 pieces. Many of the works were made expressly to be worn with haute couture pieces by fashion designers like Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Dior. Influenced by the high style of New York City, where she spent her youth, and the vivid colors of Mexico City, where she makes her home, she continues to add to her collection with an unerring eye. Ms. Berger will generously donate selected works from her collection to MAD’s permanent holdings of modern and contemporary jewelry. “To talk about collecting costume jewelry is to talk about life, style, heart, and passion. Collecting
Roger Jean-Pierre, fauna, circa 1950s-1960s. to rhineEye brooch. (Detail on stones, gold and right) Rhinestones, silresin, this section will ver plated. be on view through September 22. “This exhibition is the most important presentation of fashion
Trifari, 1941 and 1942. Left: “Royal Swan” brooch. Colored enamel, simulated baroque pearls, rhinestones, gold and silver plated. Signed Trifari Des. Pat. No. 129535. Possibly referencing the Swan Lake ballet or The Ugly Duckling fairy tale. Designer: Iradj Moini, circa 1994. Floral David Mir. Right: “Ming Swan” brooch. Mother-of-pearl, Swarovski brooch. Colored enamel partially Austrian crystals. Gunmetal plated. deficient.