Berlin through U-Bahn

INDEX 2 U-Bahn history

Between the two world wars

8

Cold war

Before and after the wall construction

22 U1, the oldest U-Bahn line Years of history in a short ride

24 Life underneath

Mistic life in the berliner underground

28 Interior design

Eccentric and colorful

30 BVG policy

Because we love you Architecture, typography and design

34 U-Bahn stations

Berlin’s underneath life The U-Bahn

Berlin is an urban metropolis overflowing with tradition and compelling history. With its breathtaking architecture, rich culture, and captivating nightlife, it is one of the premier destinations in all of Europe. Without a doubt, one of the city’s biggest draws is its fascinating history. Berlin has endured quite a bit in its lifetime, including two World Wars, the construction and demolition of the Berlin Wall, as well as rapid restoration and economic growth in the past 25 years. The combination of these events makes Germany’s capital a historical gold mine. However, what most people don’t realize about this city is that some of Berlin’s greatest wonders lie hidden underneath all of the excitement of the daily life. One of the most fascinating and underappreciated historical and cultural aspects of this great city is the U-Bahn. The U-Bahn, or “Untergrundbahn,” is the German subway. Here is a look at its culture and history.

U1 line through Kreuzberg picture taken by Anajat Raissi

2

How the yellow train became an icon of the berlin culture

Right picture - railway taken by Anajat Raissi Left picture - U1 line taken by Lukas Loeper

3

The U-Bahn is a simple, yet remarkably logical and efficient network of subways. It’s the lifeline of Berlin as a modern metropolis. The U-Bahn is composed of nine lines altogether, named sequentially as U1 through U9, and it’s operated by the Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG). During rush hour, the trains run every four to five minutes, and in the evening, every 10 minutes. With such an intricate and organized system spanning such a wide range of locations, it’s no wonder the U-Bahn is such an important aspect of both Berlin’s history and culture.

train in motion in a U-Bahn station picture taken by Felix B.

Berlin’s U-Bahn, however, wasn’t always the organized and reliable network that it is today. During planning and excavating, the system was completely jumbled, but construction and progress was, of course, largely hindered by historical developments within the city. This was particularly the case during the First and Second World Wars, as well as during the division of East and West Berlin during the Cold War. It’s hard to imagine today, but before the U-Bahn system even was established, the city operated with a horse-drawn tram network. This network eventually transformed into an electrically operated tram system between 1896 and 1902. In 1902, Berlin’s very first U-Bahn line stretching from Nollendorfplatz to Warschauer Straße was built. From that point onward, the railway steadily increased in size until the outbreak of World War I.

6

7

U-bahn through the city Picture taken by Anajat Raissi

Between the world wars

Before the war, the U-Bahn spanned a total length of only 38 kilometers. Such a short line may seem like it isn’t particularly noteworthy, but it was the beginning of something that would affect the lives of every future citizen of Berlin. In the 1920s after World War I, Berlin was faced with a time of rapid U-Bahn construction, which included the addition of lines five, seven, and eight. Between 1930 and 1950, Berlin’s U-Bahn expansion was brought to a halt by the economic depression and World War II. Bus traffic declined and railway transportation was heavily relied upon due to the war, resulting in more than 737 million passengers in 1943 alone—a peak that never again was reached. However, the lines ran as they normally would through the city. That was, of course, until August 13th, 1961 when the Berlin Wall was erected.The division of the city ended not only the freedom of movement between East and West Berlin, tearing apart families and friends, but it also caused many changes in the overall railway system.

Some of the U-Bahn lines ran either into the eastern side or the western side of the city, whereas others were divided between the two areas. Lines such as the U1 were drastically shortened, while other lines were simply cut off at certain stations completely, such as the U2 at Potsdamer Platz. Interestingly enough, the West Berliners were encouraged to boycott the S-Bahn (the “Straßenbahn,” as known as the above-ground railway) because it belonged to the East German government, while West Berlin controlled the U-Bahn network.

It was a confusing time, as the property rights of the S-Bahn remained under Western control. In 1953, the railway authorities of the German Democratic Republic introduced trains that would not stop in West Berlin and checkpoints were introduced at the border.

With the division of the city also came a division in public transportation. The fact that Berlin was divided by the Wall meant that a few of the U-Bahn lines from West Berlin actually travelled underneath another country, essentially, underneath East Berlin.

Konstanzer straße -U7 picture taken by Felix

8

Hermannplatz station first opened on 11 April 1926 together with the rest of the newly built line between the stations Hasenheide and Bergstraße, which are today the U7 stations Südstern and Karl-Marx-Straße respectively.

Hermannplatz U8, Neukölln picture taken by Felix

9

Icon created by Alexander Skowalsky for the Noun Project

How the construction of the wall changed radically the city planning

10

Hermannplatz, Neukolln picture taken by XXX

9

11

Berlin Wall picture taken by Peter S. Adobe stock

that physically and ideologically divided Berlin from 1961 to 1989. Constructed by the German Democratic Republic (GDR, East Germany), starting on 13 August 1961, the Wall cut off (by land) West Berlin from virtually all of surrounding East Germany and East Berlin until government officials opened it in November 1989.

The Berlin Wall (German: Berliner Mauer) was a guarded concrete barrier

12

Berlin Wall picture taken by Juggernaut

John F. Kennedy gave one of his most

renowned speeches on the steps of Rathaus Schöneberg in front of about 450,000 people, in the same place that Mayor Brandt had addressed Berlin two years previously.

Standing before the sea of Berliners, he proclaimed that "all free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words Ich bin ein Berliner.

"I take pride in the words

Ich bin ein Berliner"

As a way to prevent citizens from passing over into the stations today that were ghost stations during the Cold areas of the city in which they didn’t belong, passengers War. Other ghost stations included Anhalter Bahnhof, were not able to leave the train at the stations in the East Unter den Linden, Oranienburger Straße, and Nordbahnhof. until the train reached West Berlin again. These stations While the Berlin Wall was standing, East Berlin was left became known as “ghost stations”. Ghost stations were with only two U-Bahn lines—one from Mohrenstraße to dimly lit stations that the subway would pass through, but Vinetastraße (today the U2) and a line from Alexanderplatz at which they couldn’t stop. Armed East German border to Friedrichsfelde (today the U5). The maps from West Berlin guards would patrol and watch as the trains passed, making weren’t labeled as ghost stations, but with signs reading sure they didn’t drop off any passengers. Potsdamer Platz “Bahnhöfe, auf denen die Züge nicht halten,” which translaand Alexanderplatz are two of the most popular U-Bahn tes to “stations at which the trains do not stop.”

13

The Berlin Wall was one of the largest canvas in the world.

Much of the artwork was not claimed by artists and remains anonymous.

Because the wall was open to everyone, there were no restrictions on what artists could put on the wall. Over the past 30 years since the collection of artwork was started, much of the controversial artwork has been removed from the wall.

Berlin Wall's graffiti picture taken by Luc Van Ioon Unsplash

10

Imagine living in a society where you are forbidden from entering the other half of the city where you grew up.

Entering the U-Bahn, seeing the intimidating East German guards watching your every move from the between-decks.

That’s exactly what it was like for both East and West Berliners alike. East Berlin subway maps didn’t show the lines from the West at all, not to mention the ghost stations.

This was naturally all a part of the meticulous strictness of the German Democratic Republic’s actions in solidifying the division of the city. The station exits in East Berlin were closed up while border guards or police made the rounds at the ghost stations, making sure no one could enter or exit without authorization. Drastic measures were taken by the GDR to inhibit Easterners from trying to enter into the West.

The entry or exit ways of the ghost stations were primarily obstructed with barbed wire or cement.Today, with the multitude of different-colored U-Bahnw stations, you might

11

never believe that popular stations such as Alexanderplatz or Potsdamer Platz were ever so obstructed. These stations weren’t visible from above ground, either. The East Berlin government didn’t want any recognizable connection to the West and certainly didn’t want to remind the easterners of the western trains running underneath their feet. The architecture of the underground railways was something else entirely. The term “ghost station” was not given in vain.

After the Wall was torn down and re-entry into the stations was permitted, you could see the remnants of the old life just as it had been before the wall—everything was left completely untouched. Vintage posters and scratched-up ads still hung on the walls, and trash lay all over the platforms.Many of the platforms, both under and above ground, had been subject to graffiti that stretched along the entirety of the tracks.

The center of reunited Berlin:

16

Alexanderplatz underground stationpicture taken by Patricia Adobe stock

17

Alexanderplatz tower Icon created by Icon Fair from the Noun Project

18

WEST

EAST

All of the stations in East Berlin became ghost stations for almost 29 years.

An exception to this, however, was Friedrichstraße on the U6 line. It was the only station in East Berlin to remain in service as a border-crossing point for pedestrians, as well as a transfer point to the S-Bahn, so passengers from either side could cross over without having to surface.

In addition to the creation of ghost stations came a split in the networks.

One of the most famous berlin station of nowadays, Alexanderplatz, has been a ghost station too.

Today no other center in Berlin operates with as many connecting lines as

19

Alexanderplatz. The U2, U5, and U8, as well as a few different S-Bahn lines, all connect at this popular square. A multitude of Berlin’s urban history is located in this square, interlacing years of architectural, social, and political history.

Alexanderplatz, named after the Russian Tsar Alexander I and commonly called simply “Alex” by the local Berliners, is situated in the Mitte borough, which is in the center of reunited Berlin. It is the home of the government district, as well as a large public space where you can go shopping or just hang out with friends.

This station also received a literary memorial due to Alfred Döblin’s famous novel, Berlin Alexanderplatz, and has been under the protection of historical monuments since 1977. Although this station is bigger than any other station in Berlin, the architectural design is not particularly fancy—with its red-brown tiles reminiscent of an unadorned brick wall.

U-Bahn station line U1 picture taken by Spuno Adobestock

1989 reopening of the ghost stations

After the Berlin Wall was demolished consisted on stations at the main train on November 9th, 1989, the ghost station, the federal parliament builstations began to reopen. The under- ding known as the Bundestag, and ground railway transformed slowly but at the Brandenburg Gate. Jumping surely into the U-Bahn network that ahead 25 years to the present day, we know today. Just two days after it’s almost impossible to imagine that the fall of the Wall, Jannowitzbrßcke these former ghost stations that thrive reopened to the entire public. It on the hustle and bustle of its citizens was the first of many stations to be ever belonged to a different territory reopened in the new, reunited Berlin. at all. Today, these various U-Bahn In 2009, three stations opened an stations have been rebuilt and thrive isolated line called the U55, which abundantly in the Berliner culture.

21

U1

The U1, from Warschauerstrasse to Uhlandstrasse, is the oldest underground line in Berlin. It takes you through years of history in a short ride. Starting East, at Warschauestrasse Station, after having strolled through the Eastside gallery, the line crosses the river, previously a division between east and west Berlin, over Oberbaumbrucke. On a clear day you can catch breathtaking views of the Spree. Schlesisches Tor, your next station, drops you right

Years of history through a short ride smack in the middle of Kreuzberg’s most colorful areas, filled with restaurants, clubs, shops and just a few steps away from the bridge.

You could walk or ride over to Gorlitzer Bahnhof and Kotti, admiring what’s left of the impressive building grafitti. You have Hallesches Haus a few stops down if you want a bite to eat, or Gleisdreieck Park if the day calls for a picnic. If you go further you may sense the slight change of architecture in the next few stations, the real old West Berlin, still holding an air of the golden twenties and still filled with jewels of the time, like Diener Tattersal. Get off at Wittenberg Platz and do some shopping at KaDeWe. Or walk further down toward Uhlandstrasse and get lost in side streets flanked with cafes leading over to Sauvigny Platz. It’s filled with possibilities really, and depending on the day you can ride it or stroll along it, taking in every-day-Berliner life and years of history within it.

22

U-Bahn station line U1 picture taken by Moofushi Adobestock

23

24

Berlin people Picture taken by Lukas Loeper

The U-bahn likes everyone: The mistic life in the berliner underground

Mr. Utterson the lawyer was a man of a rugged countenance that was never lighted by a smile; cold, scanty and embarrassed in discourse; backward in sentiment; lean, long, dusty, dreary and yet somehow lovable. At friendly meetings, and when the wine was to his taste, something eminently human beaconed from his eye; something indeed which never found its way into his talk, but which spoke not only in these silent symbols of the after-dinner face, but more often and loudly in the acts of his life. He was austere with himself; drank gin when he was alone, to mortify a taste for vintages; and though he enjoyed the theatre, had not crossed the doors of one for twenty years.

25

Mr. Utterson the lawyer was a man of a rugged countenance that was never lighted by a smile; cold, scanty and embarrassed in discourse; backward in sentiment; lean, long, dusty, dreary and yet somehow lovable. At friendly meetings, and when the wine was to his taste, something eminently human beaconed from his eye; something indeed which never found its way into his talk, but which spoke not only in these silent symbols of the after-dinner face, but more often and loudly in the acts of his life. He was austere with himself; drank gin when he was alone, to mortify a taste for vintages; and though he enjoyed the theatre, had not crossed the doors of one for twenty years.

David Bowie lived in SchĂśneberg for two years and recorded the biggest hits of his singing career in the late 1970s. Even today, his popularity revolves around the album that was recorded in Berlin, and his song ‘Heroes’ often felt like a Berlin hymn. His quote about Berlin is itself classic, and epitomizes the free creative atmosphere and pop culture industry of Berlin.

Left picture : homeless people reading newpaper picture taken by Vidar Nordli Mathise Right picture: man sitting on U-Bahn's seat picture taken by Victor Xok

26

- David Bowie

"Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine."

Mr. Utterson the lawyer was a man of a rugged countenance that was never lighted by a smile; cold, scanty and embarrassed in discourse; backward in sentiment; lean, long, dusty, dreary and yet somehow lovable

27

Seat's pattern picture taen by manuel Adobestock

Retrò and eccentric, the inetrior design of the U-Bahn trains 28

All of the stations in East Berlin became ghost stations for almost 29 years. An exception to this, however, was FriedrichstraĂ&#x;e on the U6 line. It was the only station in East Berlin to remain in service as a border-crossing point for pedestrians, as well as a transfer point to the S-Bahn, so passengers from either side could cross over without having to surface. In addition to the creation of ghost stations came a split in the networks. On the ea-

29

stern side, the U5 was extended toward the east to new residential areas, while the U2 was split into a few different lines—line one was curtailed at Schlesisches Tor, and lines six and eight began travelling through East Berlin skipping all stations on West Berlin territory. During the years of the Cold War, the U-Bahn developed in completely different directions in both parts of Berlin. In the west, a new line was added: a north-south link called the U9.

Humor and self-irony

How the BVG gained popularity over the years

30

The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) are Germany’s largest municipal public transport company. More than one billion passengers used the bus, underground, tram and ferry services in 2015. The “Weil wir dich lieben� (Because we love you) campaign is to improve the image and strengthen the brand. The campaign follows a cross-medial approach. Besides classic media such as collaborations with leading media, ambient, image films, vehicle branding etc., the focus is particularly on social media channels.

A courageous campaign full of humor and self-irony that works well across all media. Thanks to its unprecedented success, the image of the BVG was greatly enhanced particularly among the young target group.

Train in motion picture taken by Chaba L. Adobestock

31

BVG

it's okay with you being weird

The latest advert by BVG has whipped up a storm "It's a message that's particularly important as across Europe - and it's not hard to guess why. thousands of refugees arrive in Berlin, she added.

In "Ist mir egal" ("I don't care"), rapper Kazim The track appeared on YouTube on Friday 11th Akboga - in uniform as a BVG official - gives December, and BVG's link to the video received passengers the low-down on proper etiquette almost 9,000 shares within the first five hours when travelling with BVG."The whole meaning of appearing on Facebook."It's gone through of the video is to have fun," BVG spokesperson Europe!" said Langer. "We've had calls from Josefin Langer told The Local:"We want to tell Finland, France, Austria..."It turns out there are everyone that it's not important how you quite a few things Akboga "doesn't care" about. look, where you come from, or what skin Whether all of these correspond with BVG's officolour you have - we're just here to take cial rules is another thing - but it's pretty enteryou from one place to another. taining, either way.

32 32

33

people waiting picture taken by Lukas Loeper

173 With its ten lines, the U-Bahn (underground, subway) Berlin runs along a network of approximately 146 kilometres and includes 173 stations. Most metro lines operate underground, but some run on above ground tracks.

34

Architecture Typography Design From grotesque to quirky: a history of Berlin told through U-Bahn stations' typography A volte pensiamo che la metro sia solo un mezzo per raggiungere le nostre mete.

Siamo risucchiati in una società in cui non c’è spazio per apprezzare ciò che ci circonda, eppure ogni angolo di quelle pareti sotterranee pullula di storia. Ed è qui che l’arte gioca un ruolo importante, che stimola i sensi e attira l’attenzione. 173 stazioni, 10 linee e quasi 147 chilometri: la U-Bahn, la metropolitana sotterranea di Berlino, non è soltanto un pezzo di storia ma anche una gioia per gli occhi. Un tripudio di colori, immagini, pattern e raffinati caratteri tipografici che non annoiano mai. Basterebbe alzare lo sguardo e lasciarsi piacevolmente distrarre dalle proprie abitudini. Ma il tempo non basta mai, le fermate sono troppe e troppo affollate (la BVG trasporta oltre 530 milioni di passeggeri all’anno). E allora, a venirci in soccorso, c’è Claudio Galamini, un fotografo italiano che ha immortalato tutte le stazioni metro della capitale tedesca, dalla prima all’ultima. Il progetto, un successo sulla sua pagina Instagram, è ora diventato un libro, Berlin U-Bahn. Pubblicato dall’agenzia berlinese Kulturspace, Berlin U-Bahn raccoglie tutti gli scatti di Claudio in ordine di linea e lo fa in un formato elegante e ricco di spiegazioni e curiosità. Il libro, uscito a fine novembre, è disponibile sul sito di Kulturspace al costo di 22€.

35

CREDITS Free University of Bolzano - Bozen Faculty of Design and Art Bachelor in Design and Art - Major in Design WUP 18/19 | 1st semester foundation course Project Module: Editorial Design Design by: Cecilia Tommasi Magazine | Berlin through U-Bahn Supervision: Project leader Prof. Antonino Benincasa Project assistants Maximilian Boiger, Gian Marco Favretto Photography: Anajat Raissi Luc Van Ioon Lukas Loeper StreetsbyFelix Claudio Galamini Adobestock, Unsplash, Instagram Illusration: the noun project: Alexander Skovalsky Cecilia Tommasi Icon fair Paper: Color copy Coated glossy 170 gr.

Arjowiggins Curious Skin Black 270 gr.

Fonts: Transit typeface Printed: Bozen-Bolzano, January 2019 Inside pages – Digital Print | Canon Cover – UV-Serigrahy

36