The Beauty within Ancient Jewelry 2017 Volume V

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APHRODITE ANCIENT ART JEWELRY OF THE ANCIENTS THE BEAUTY WITHIN ANCIENT JEWELRY 2017 - VOLUME V

1200 Fifth Avenue New York, New York 10029, U.S.A


This year’s catalog is proudly dedicated to jewelry! Continuing last year’s theme of multiculturalism, the works assorted on the following pages represent cultures thousands of years apart. The visual diversity is astounding, with necklaces alone looking radically different from each other. Varied materials – including gold, silver, various stones, jewels, and gems – are consistently featured in pieces across the ages. Isolating gold constitutes another remarkable example. When one examines the smoothly sloping lunar planes of an earring set, ponders graffito curiously sprawled under a bird’s standing base, meets the somber eyes of a delicately detailed female bust capping a fertility pin, or traces hard, knotted furrows running the circuit of a snake bracelet, the individual forgets that a single medium constitutes these objects. An inverse claim could be made asserting that cultural diversity is really the medium, and artistic endeavors across the centuries are actually paying tribute to this precious element. We hope you’re as captivated by the included works as we are. In a way different from larger-scale antiquities, the myriad shapes, cuts, and swirls of ancient jewelry offer their own unique windows into the hearts of their creators. Enjoy and Happy Holidays! -J. Rifai.


A GREEK GOLD GARNET AND AGATE NECKLACE, HELLENISTIC PERIOD, CIRCA 3RD – 2ND CENTURY B.C., 16 ½ in. (42.5 cm.) L. Composed of plain-wire links, with every other link threaded through a spherical garnet bead, the ends each with a barrel-shaped, banded agate bead and caps fringed with tongues of filigree-twisted wire. Back-to-back tongues at the other end, the latter preserving some white enamel, with agate terminals in the form of goat heads threaded through a hook-and-loop closure. Ex. Christie’s Ancient Jewelry, December 2013, Lot 261; Francesca Artuner, Brussels; New York private collection.

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AN EGYPTIAN GLASS EYE BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA 13TH – 12TH CENTURY B.C., 15 ¾ in. (40 cm.) L. Consisting of 21 eye beads in blue, white, and red re-strung together with alternating blue and black disc beads. Terminates in a gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early private American collection, M.R. Collection, acquired in the 1960s.

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AN EGYPTIAN FAIENCE AND GOLD BEAD NECKLACE, LATE PERIOD, CIRCA 664 – 332 B.C., 15 ¼ in. (38.5 cm.) L. Made up of tubular blue faience and gold beads, centered with a large, glazed blue faience sow bead. Terminates in a modern gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early private American collection, M.R. Collection, assembled in the 1960s. In ancient Egyptian mythology, the sow nurturing her young was associated with Nut, the goddess of the sky and mother of the ancient Egyptian pantheon.

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AN EGYPTIAN CARNELIAN AND GOLD NECKLACE NEW KINGDOM, DYNASTY XVIII-XX, 1550 – 1070 B.C., 15 ¾ in. (40 cm.) L. Consisting of 19 cornflower pendants graduating in size, restrung together with rounded carnelian and modern 22-karat gold beads. Terminates in a modern gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. American private collection, M.R. Collection, assembled mainly in the 1960s. For a related necklace comprised of similar beads, see Borowski, Egypt’s Golden Age: THE ART OF LIVING IN THE NEW KINGDOM, 1558 – 1085 B.C., no. 314.

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AN EGYPTIAN FAIENCE AND GOLD BEAD NECKLACE, LATE PERIOD, CIRCA 664 – 332 B.C., 15 ¾ in. (40 cm.) L. Comprised of blue faience discs alternating with modern 22-karat gold beads, re-strung together, a brilliant blue faience wedjat eye bead anchoring the piece. Terminates with a gold-hook and-loop closure. Ex. American private collection, M.R. collection, formed mainly during the 1960s.

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A BACTRIAN BANDED AGATE AND GOLD BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA LATE 3RD – EARLY 2ND MILLENNIUM B.C., 20 in. (50 cm.) L. Composed of cylindrical beads re-strung with modern gold spacer beads, and terminating in a gold clasp. Ex. European art market, acquired in 1982; M.R. collection; Christie’s New York, November 2016, Lot 66.

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A ROMAN CARNELIAN AND GLASS BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY A.D., 19 in. (48 cm.) L. Consisting of a carnelian heart amulet, with re-strung pearl-like glass and carnelian disc beads, terminating in a modern hook-and-loop closure. Ex. M.R. collection, assembled mainly during the 1960s.

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A MEDITERRANEAN GLASS EYE BEAD NECKLACE , CIRCA 6TH – 2ND CENTURY B.C., 17 in. (43 cm.) L. Either Phoenician or Carthaginian. Consisting of 17 Mediterranean glass eye beads, restrung together with glass beads in black and white swirls, and terminating in a modern 24-karat gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early European collection, 1977; American private collection, acquired in 1998.

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A BACTRIAN AGATE AND GOLD BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA 3RD – 2ND MILLENNIUM B.C., 19 ¾ in. (50 cm.) L. Consisting of V-shaped banded agate beads, re-strung with bi-conical disc and ancient Phoenician gold beads, and terminating in a modern gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. M.R. Collection, primarily formed during the 1960s.

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A WESTERN ASIATIC CARNELIAN BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA 2ND CENTURY A.D., 17 in. (43 cm.) L. Composed of 29 faceted carnelian beads, graduating in size towards the center, and interspersed with carnelian disc beads. Terminates in a modern gold S-hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early European collection; Christie’s New York, November 2016, Lot 46.

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AN EGYPTIAN FAIENCE BEAD NECKLACE, NEW KINGDOM, 1550 – 1069 B.C., 21 ¼ in. (54 cm.) L. Re-strung in two rows of faience and carnelian disc beads separated by X-shaped green faience beads, with a modern gold S-shaped hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early European collection, 1976.

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AN EGYPTIAN FAIENCE AND SHELL BEAD NECKLACE, NEW KINGDOM, CIRCA 1550 – 1069 B.C., 20 ¾ in. (53 cm.) L. Re-strung with shell-like beads in blue, pale brown, and white; interspersed with carnelian disk beads and tubular white beads, and culminating in a large tubular bead evoking a nautical sentiment. Terminates in a modern gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early European collection, acquired in 1976.

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A WESTERN ASIATIC GREEN STONE NECKLACE, CIRCA 2ND MILLENNIUM B.C., 25 in. (63.5 cm.) L. Consisting of re-strung bi-conical beads graduating in size towards the center, and terminating in a modern gold hook-and-loop closure. Ex. early M.R. collection, acquired in the 1960s; ex. Christie’s auction, November 2016, Lot 45.

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A BACTRIAN STONE AND SHELL BEAD NECKLACE, CIRCA 3RD MILLENNIUM B.C., 19 ½ in. (49.5 cm.) L. Consisting of white rhomboid beads interspersed with alternating white and black disc beads, centered by a large square-shaped bead boldly stamped with four concentric circles. Ex. early New York private collection, acquired before 1980.

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ISLAMIC GOLD SELJUK BRACELET, CIRCA 11TH – 12TH CENTURY A.D., 2 ž in. (7 cm.) Diam. Comprised of a spiraling pattern that graduates from each end towards the center, the ends emphatically terminating in a seal of three vertically stacked cylinders embellished with granules and filigree, and framed by four concentric tubules. Ex. French private collection, acquired in 1973.

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A ROMAN-EGYPTIAN SILVER SNAKE BRACELET, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY B.C. – 1ST CENTURY A.D., 2 in. (5 cm.) Diam. Made of silver, with loops tapering from the center to culminate in two facing snake heads, detailed with scales that recede from the nuanced heads partway into the bracelet. Ex. German private collection, acquired in 1996.

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A PAIR OF WESTERN ASIATIC GOLD EARRINGS, CIRCA MID 2ND MILLENNIUM B.C., each ¾ in. (1.9 cm.) Diam. Made of gold; lunar-shaped, with hoops made of two twisted wires embellished with granule decorations. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the early 1970s.

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A PAIR OF GREEK GOLD CRESCENT EARRINGS, CIRCA 5TH CENTURY B.C., each ½ in. (1.3 cm.) Diam. Made of hollow gold; a circular imprint marks each earring’s center, the ends tapering out from this point towards a termination of twisted wire. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the 1970s.

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A PAIR OF ROMAN GOLD EARRINGS CIRCA 3RD – 4TH CENTURY A.D., each ½ in. (1.3 cm.) Diam. Made of solid gold; comprised of smooth, tapering hoops that end in twists. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the 1970s.

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A PAIR OF BYZANTINE GOLD EARRINGS, CIRCA 6TH – 7TH CENTURY A.D., each 1 1/8 in. (2.8 cm.) W. Lunar-shaped earrings decorated with open work of lush floral motifs and delicate filigree, terminating in looped wire. Ex. Christie’s New York, 2014.

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A PAIR OF ROMAN GOLD EARRINGS, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY B.C. – 1ST CENTURY A.D., each 1 ¼ in. (3.2 cm.) Diam. Minimalist; composed of circles centrally decorated with asymmetric globule fabrications symmetrically flanked by two independent globules, one on each side. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired during the 1970s.

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AN EAST GREEK GOLD PIN, CIRCA 5TH – 4TH CENTURY B.C., 2 ½ in. (6.4 cm.) L. A solid gold pin, blossoming from a needle point into the bust of a woman, the latter with hands clasped to her breasts, wearing a beaded necklace, and her hair tied in a bun. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the early 1970s.

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AN EGYPTIAN GOLD FALCON FIGURINE, LATE PERIOD, CIRCA 664 – 332 B.C., 5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) H. Made of solid gold; a finely modeled bird with interesting graffito at the base. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the late 1960s, early 1970s.

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A HELLENISTIC GREEK GOLD PENDANT, CIRCA 3RD CENTURY B.C., 15/16 in. (2.3 cm.) H. A standing female, nude but for drapery covering the breasts, the former intertwining with her left arm and blowing back into a sumptuously crumpled display around the legs. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired during the late 1960s, early 1970s.

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A ROMAN GLASS AND INTAGLIO RING, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY A.D., 1 1/8 in. (2.9 cm.) W. A glass ring distinguished with an oval shank; the concave bezel is set with an oval ancient Roman carnelian intaglio, engraved with the head of an emperor as Pontifex Maximus (“High Priest”) in profile facing to the left. Ex. European art market; ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in 1987. Cf: there are similar examples in the British Museum, Catalogue of Finger Rings, Greek Etruscan Roman in the Department of Antiquities, British Museum, London 1907, pl. XXXIX, no. 1562; Christie’s London Sale 7207, October 2012, Lot 184 (for a similar intaglio, realized then at $4,028.00); The Benzian Collection of Ancient and Islamic Glass, Sotheby’s London, July 1994, Lot 216, (pg. 112 for a similar glass ring).

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A ROMAN SILVER AND RED JASPER FINGER RING, CIRCA 2ND – 3RD CENTURY A.D., 15/16 in. (2.4 cm.) W. The oval bezel is set in a jasper ring stone, carved with a horse and rider (caped or winged) in sunken relief, galloping to the left. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the early 1960s.

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A ROMAN CARNELIAN STONE RING, 1ST CENTURY B.C. – 1ST CENTURY A.D., 1 in. (2.5 cm.) Diam., ring stone 5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) W. The oval ring stone is engraved with a delicately nuanced bust of Isis, worshipped by the ancient Egyptians as the ideal mother and a patron of magic and nature; the image is in profile to the left, the goddess’s coiffure arranged in plaits falling to her shoulders, and she holds a staff in her right hand. Set in a heavy 22-karat solid gold ring, with a flat hoop in the interior. Ex. American private collection, 1990s. Published: ART OF THE ANCIENTS, A SELECTION OF ANCIENT ART, VOL I, 2013, no. 36, pg. 37.

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A ROMAN GOLD FINGER RING, CIRCA 1ST – 2ND CENTURY A.D., 5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) Diam. Made of solid gold; set with an eye motif comprised of a cream-colored stone and gold iris in the center. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired during the late 1960s, early 1970s.

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A ROMANO-BRITISH GOLD SIGNET RING, CIRCA 4TH CENTURY A.D., bezel 3/8 in. (1.1 cm.) Diam. Comprised of a cross within a dotted border, on a circular bezel. A rare Roman Christian ring, most likely made during the Roman occupation of Britain. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in 1968. Cf: Christie’s London Fine Antiquities Auction, 11 July 1984, Lot 59 (est. 2,500 – 3,000 B.P., sold for 5,616 B.P.); see also Roman Britain, JRS, Vol. XXXIX (1949), pg. 115, Fig. 25; see also Christianity in Roman Britain to AD 500, London, 1981, pg. 131, Fig. 13.5.

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A PHOENICIAN INSCRIBED GOLD RING, CIRCA 5th – 4th CENTURY B.C., 1 in. (2.5 cm.) Diam., bezel 5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) W. Made of solid gold; the ring has an oval bezel inscribed with Phoenician letters. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the late 1960s, early 1970s. Ex. Christie’s New York auction, November 2016, Lot 76.

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A GRECO-ROMAN GLASS HEAD OF AN AFRICAN, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY B.C. – 1ST CENTURY A.D., 5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) H. Carved in the shape of a head with African male features, surmounted by a suspension loop. Originally designed to serve an apotropaic purpose and imbue its wearer with good luck. Ex. Swiss private collection, G.L., acquired in 1979.

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A GREEK JASPER RING STONE, CIRCA 4TH – 3RD CENTURY B.C., ½ in. (1.3 cm.) Diam. The ring stone is finely carved with the head of Medusa. Gorgons were frequently featured in art intended to serve apotropaic purposes. Ex. M.R. Collection, acquired in the late 1960s.

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A ROMAN-EGYPTIAN BRONZE PENDANT OF AN AFRICAN MALE, CIRCA 1ST CENTURY B.C. – 1ST CENTURY A.D., 1 ¼ in. (3.2 cm.) H. Depicting the bust of an African male, surmounted by a loop for suspension. Ex. Swiss private collection, G.L.; New York private collection, acquired in 1998.

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TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE All objects offered in this catalog are subject to prior sale, and are unconditionally guaranteed genuine. A certificate of guarantee will accompany every sold object. Sale is for cash payable in U.S. dollars and drawn on a U.S. bank, or payment can be wired directly to our bank account. New York State residents must add the appropriate sales tax. Every object we offer has a clear title and has been legally acquired. If imported by us, the importation was done in accordance with international laws concerning the trade in antiquities. Condition reports available upon request. Packing and shipping charges are additional. Title remains with us until payments are made in full.



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