A journey beyond expectation. Beginning in Darwin, the epic Ghan Expedition four day rail journey will take you to some of the most remote yet captivating parts of the Northern Territory in all-inclusive style and comfort.
The Ghan Expedition 4 days/3 nights Gold Service all-inclusive from
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Share twin. Flights additional.
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NORTHERN TERRITORY ADD ONS: Taste of the Top End
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5 days/4 nights
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529
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Share twin. Flights additional.
Share twin. Flights additional.
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Includes 4 nights accommodation in Darwin, breakfast daily, Jumping Crocs & Nature tour and Litchfield National Park & Waterfall tour.
Includes 3 nights accommodation in Darwin, 1 night accommodation in Kakadu, breakfast daily, 2 day Kakadu National Park & East Alligator River Tour and more.
Includes 4 nights luxury accommodation in Darwin, Outback Floatplane Adventure tour, Croc n History Explorer tour and more.
Bring your ideas in to House of Travel and we’ll help you get there.
MARK-2175
0 8 0 0 7 1 3 7 1 5 I C O M E I N S T O R E I H O T. C O . N Z
Enriching Kiwis’ lives through travel for 30 years 1987 - 2017
CONDITIONS: Valid for new bookings only from 02 Sep-31 Oct 17 or until sold out • Fare applies to departures in September and October 2018 and March 2019 • 100% cancellation charges apply 14 days after booking • Prices valid at 28 Aug 17 but may fluctuate depending on exchange rates • Min/max stays apply • Some surcharges, closeouts and accommodation restrictions apply • Amendment, cancellation and credit card fees apply • Single Cabin & Platinum pricing are also available • Further terms and conditions apply • For more information see instore or visit www.hot.co.nz. CMPAUS0817
HOTXXXX_NZH_EB
The best holidays are created together.
travel travel
Great Kiwi wine » p32-p33 Fighting against tourist taxes » p45
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 5 SEPTEMBER 19 2017
PLUS The w great orld’s e journst rail eys » p22 -p27
Eli Orzessek explores Europe’s coolest city » p18-p19
Das Kapital NEW CALEDONIA HOLIDAYS ON SALE NOW ! NOUVATA
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Valid 12 Oct – 30 Nov 2017 $1349pp for 01 – 12 Dec 2017 & 19 Feb – 28 Mar 2018
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FLIGHTS + HOTELS + BONUS OFFERS - WWW.OURPACIFIC.CO.NZ/NEWCAL FOR MORE DETAILS & DEALS YOUR PAYMENTS TO OUR WORLD LTD ARE PROTECTED BY TAANZ. Unless otherwise stated, prices include return economy class airfares flying Aircalin from Auckland including prepayable airline surcharges, levies and airport taxes, share twin/double accommodation, and inclusions as specified. Special conditions apply for all Bonus Inclusions. Valid for travel commenced & completed as specified – refer to our website for other travel dates. Must be booked by 22 Sep 2017 with airfares fully paid within 72 hours of confirmation & no later than 18 Aug 2017. Prices are in NZ dollars and subject to currency fluctuations and are for payment by cash, eftpos or cheque only – QCard & credit card prices on application. Airfares and accommodation may not be available on all services and room categories, and capacity restrictions may apply. Amendment and cancellation fees do apply and airfares are non-refundable, non-transferable, and name changes are not permitted – please contact us for details. Prices were correct as of 14 Sep 2017 and are subject to change without notification and other conditions may apply.
0800500598 MONDAY - FRIDAY: 8:30am - 5:30pm
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info@ourpacific.co.nz OUR INCLUSIONS Airfares from Auckland to Noumea, flying Aircalin including all prepayable taxes & levies Accommodation share twin or double basis Bonus offers as indicated Return airport transfers
travel
6 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
From the Travel Editor
My Holiday: Paolo Rotondo nearly made me question socialism . . . If we bump into you on holiday, what are you most likely to be doing? I’ll be in the water frolicking with my children, or underwater, snorkelling or scuba diving.
Digging a hole Days before we go to the polls, there can be few better metaphors for the way New Zealand’s old economy is holding back our new one. A digger in Northland whacked into the pipeline that supplies the aviation fuel which brings tourists to our shores. Does it matter what the digger was doing? It could have been tearing swamp kauri from the ground or putting in place a trench to push cow’s effluent into a once-pristine waterway — either way, an old-fashioned extraction industry just made it a little bit more expensive for visitors to fly into New Zealand. Along the way, it scotched holiday plans for Kiwis looking to head offshore and made your next overseas flight a little more expensive too. — winston.aldworth@nzherald.co.nz
If we could teleport you to one place in New Zealand for a week-long holiday, where would it be? Drop me off on Great Barrier Island, please. How about for a dream holiday internationally? I would got to the Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea, off Sicily. What’s the dumbest thing you’ve ever done when travelling? I left my passport on the back seat of a cab and when I realised, I decided to run after the taxi. Aisle seat or window seat? Window. Complete this sentence: I can’t travel without . . . A good book to read. What’s the best travel tip you’ve ever been given? No matter how embarrassing, always attempt to speak a few words of the language.
Contacts Editor: Winston Aldworth Deputy Editor: Stephanie Holmes Online Editor: Eveline Harvey Digital Content Producer: Eli Orzessek Designers: Sue Baxalle, Jill Stanford, Lucy Casley, Rob Cox, Cara Hall Picture Researcher: Ellie Hutchinson Cover: Berlin Picture: Getty Images Story: p18-p19 Sub-editors: Courtney Whitaker, Isobel Marriner, Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Editorial: Phone (09) 373 6400, ext. 98242 Email: travel@nzherald.co.nz Online: nzherald.co.nz/travel Advertising: Sandy Kilgour, phone 021 489 819; Email: sandy.kilgour@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in New Zealand dollars, unless specified.
Going West Books + Writers Festival presents an especially restaged, intimate production of Kororareka: The Ballad of Maggie Flynn by Paolo Rotondo. Te Pou Theatre, 44A Portage Rd, New Lynn, September 21-23.
What was your greatest holiday? I remember being in Italy and totally broke, but decided to go to Greece nonetheless. I slept on the deck of a ship, on beaches, next to a goat and ate only pistachios some days . . . and yet it was amazing fun.
What was the most memorable meal you’ve had while travelling? Spaghetti alle vongole on the island of Ischia in the bay of Naples. Freshness, simplicity and supreme flavour.
goingwestfest.co.nz
And the worst? When I visited Cuba I decided I would holiday like the locals and booked a hotel that Cubans use. The queues for food and organised group activities
What’s the best thing you’ve brought back from a trip? Experiences. Favourite airport to land at? Auckland Airport, because Aotearoa is home.
What’s the next trip you’ve got planned? A family trip to Italy with my young kids.
South East Asia On Sale Singapore
Return Economy Class Flights
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3 NIGHTS AT ORCHARD HOTEL FROM *
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*
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*Terms & conditions apply. Prices are per person, valid for sales until 25 Sep 2017. Airfares: Based on return Air New Zealand Economy Class airfares on NZ operated services only and Economy Class Seat+Bag for Bali. Singapore, Ho Chi Minh City & Phuket are based on travel from Auckland, Wellington & Christchurch (to/via Singapore) for travel 16 Jan-30 June 2018. Bali based on travel from Auckland, Wellington (via Auckland) & Christchurch (via Auckland) for travel 2-30 May 2018. No travel DPS-AKL 28 May. Other destinations available. Specific dates, routings & restrictions apply for all destinations. Bali services are subject to government and regulatory approval. Prices include all relevant fuel, airport & government taxes. Airfares are non-refundable & non-transferable. Capacity limitations apply & may not be available on all services. Stopovers may be available - additional charges may apply. Accommodation: Based on twin share accommodation in specific room types. Singapore based on travel 26 Feb - 21 Apr & 1 May - 21 Jun 2018 for Mon-Thu stays. Vietnam based on travel 1 May-21 Jun 2018 however pricing is taken from a live system & subject to change until time of final confirmation, please enquire for up to date costs. Bali based on travel 2-30 May 2018 & bonus offer is 1 massage or dinner per person for up to 2 adults per room. General Conditions: Prices are correct as at 07 Sep 2017, subject to availability, currency fluctuation & may be amended or withdrawn at any time without notice. Amendment & cancellation fees apply. Payment & ticketing deadlines apply. Minimum & maximum stays may apply. Blackout date & seasonal surcharges may apply depending on date of travel & over peak holiday periods. Prices are in New Zealand dollars for payment by cash, cheque & eftpos only. We welcome all major credit cards however a credit card processing fee will apply. Travel Agent professional service fees may apply. Whilst every care is taken to accurately present the information & pricing we reserve the right to correct any errors or omissions. Further terms & conditions apply. Contact your YOU Travel specialist for full details.
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 7
Check-in Desk
travel@nzherald.co.nz
What we’ve learned in this week’s
Where to
travel
WINE NEXT
Westminster’s Regency Cafe, a short walk from Victoria Station, is one of the best spots in London for a classic English Breakfast. Early Bird Season UK » p16-p17 The highly gentrified suburb of Prenzlauer Berg is the Ponsonby of Berlin. Early Bird Season » p18-p19 About 13,000 slices of a specialty layer cake are sold each year at Denmark’s Svinklov Badehotel, a 90-year-old seaside retreat that offers a homely atmosphere and exceptional food. Early Bird Season » p20-p21 Myanmar’s Gokteik Viaduct spans a deep, astonishing gorge and, at the time of construction, was the world’s largest railway trestle. It remains Myanmar’s highest bridge. Rail Journeys » p25-p26 The Ghan, one of three Great Australian Train Journeys, travels a distance of 1420km from Alice Springs to Darwin. Amazingly it took just 30 months to build. Are you reading this, Auckland Transport? Rail Journeys » p26-p27
Already drunk your way around New Zealand’s best-known wine regions? Jane Jurgens recommends some lesser-visited spots.
1
Been to: Waiheke Try: Matakana For Aucklanders, there’s nothing better than hopping on a ferry across the Waitemata Harbour and spending sunny afternoons on Waiheke Island. Head further afield — without going too far — with a drive up north to Matakana. Famous for its weekend markets, there’s also a good handful of wineries in the area, including Brick Bay, which has an excellent restaurant and sculpture trail. Make a weekend of it and check out the incredible beaches in the region, especially those at Omaha, Tawharanui and Scandrett Regional Park. Wineries of note: Ransom Wines, Ascension Wine Estate, Hyperion Wines, Omaha Bay Vineyard, Providence Wines.
2
Been to: Hawke’s Bay Try: Waipara You’ve likely drunk a fair few drops of Hawke’s Bay wine in your time. But have you tried much from Waipara? Just an hour north of Christchurch, it’s one of the country’s fastest growing wine regions, producing great pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. With more than 75 vineyards, and more popping up every year, you’re going to be spoilt for choice. Wineries of note: Black Estate (pictured), Pegasus Bay, Sherwood Estate, Alan McCorkindale
Travel lines Rep ace Replace the fear of the unknown with curiousity.
— Henry Thoreau
3
In 1964 Vancouver Aquarium was the first to capture and train an orca. However in 1996 a local bylaw was enacted that prevents the aquarium capturing wild whales and dolphins. Canada » p30
Been to: Marlborough Try: Martinborough Trade your usual summer visit to Marlborough and try Wairarapa instead. Just an hour’s drive from Wellington, it’s easily accessible on your next capital city break. The region has a similar climate to that of Marlborough — low rainfall, lots of sunshine and cool nights — making for incredible wines, especially the pinot noirs. Martinborough is the heart of the region, with boutique wineries, terrific food, quaint shops and accommodation options. Wineries of note: Palliser Estate, Ata Rangi, Margrain Vineyard, Te Kairanga.
These days, historical Marlborough winery Auntsfield is owned by the Cowley family — acclaimed New Zealand cinematographer Graeme (Utu, Smash Palace), his wife Linda, and their sons Ben (the viticulturist) and Luc (the winemaker). New Zealand » p32-p33 Bangkok’s Chatuchak Weekend Market is visited by more than 200,000 locals and tourists each day and sprawls across several streets. Shopping » p36-p37
4
Been to: Queenstown Try: Waitaki Valley Central Otago is heaven for pinot noir drinkers but if you’re bored of Queenstown (really? How could you be?), how about trying New Zealand’s newest wine region? Grapes were first planted in the Waitaki Valley in 2001 and now there are many small, boutique wineries popping up, all producing excellent pinot noir, as well as pinot gris, riesling and gewurtztraminer. The valley’s scenery is worth a visit in its own right — most wineries are around the Kurow river, but you should also check out Ohau, Omarama, Duntroon and Otematata. Wineries of note: Ostler Vineyard, Otiake Estate, Black Star, Black Stilt
Sydney Beer Week, October 20-29, features more than 100 events scattered across the city with local and international brewery showcases, scavenger hunts, walking tours, trivia nights and a “beergustation’ dinner. Australia » p28-p29
At Philadelphia’s City Tavern, est. 1773, you can order an ale brewed from the same recipe used by Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the US. USA » p39 At Tokyo’s Book and Bed hostel, you can spend the night in a bookshelf bed. The shelves run down the length of the building with ladders and cubbyholes to crawl into. Room Check » p46-p47
For more great Kiwi wines, see p32-p33
Where we are
American Airlines Auckland-to-Los Angeles return Economy Class tickets are currently on sale for $999 for flights from October 7 to December 3 and from January 16 to March 24. Sale lasts until September 24. Flight Check » p48-p49 On Disney’s cruise line, staff refer to a kid’s accident in the pool as a “Code Winnie”. Travel Wires » p51
What I love ... about travel right now
Shalyn Kumar
Adventure World marketing coordinator
d through Australia Brian Kelly has journeye an train ride. on the magnificent Gh 6-p27… His story appears on p2
I love travelling to places that are rich in history and one of my favourite destinations is definitely Egypt. From exploring the Great Pyramids to cruising down the Nile to Abu Simbel, there is so much to see and do across the country. Visiting the Khan Al-Khalili bazaar is not to be missed and it’s awesome to chat with the local market vendors and learn about their culture.
travel
8 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
?
Ask Away
Eli Orzessek finds the answers to your travel questions I’ve only ever travelled solo or with friends and family in the past, but I’ve just booked a 10-day tour to Vietnam. It’s a first for me and the more I think about it, the more nervous I am. What happens if I really dislike someone in the group, or don’t really bond with anyone? Jordan I’ve been in a fair few group travel situations now and it’s not always easy. You’re with people from different countries and completely different backgrounds and often there will be someone who just rubs you up the wrong way. It’s happened to me Send your queries by — everything from finding someone’s email to askaway laugh really grating to the casual racist @nzherald.co.nz comments that just don’t sit well with me. The best advice I can really give is to Eli cannot answer all find your people and stick with them, questions and cannot while keeping your distance from those correspond with readers you don’t like. On every group I’ve been part of, everyone has found a friend and it’s highly likely you will too. Plus there will be plenty to see to distract you from interpersonal relations — and all that time in a bus can help you understand anyone, anyway!
You’ll usually find a friend on a tour group. Picture / Getty Images
Karen Stevens, the Insurance and Financial Services Ombudsman, has answered a couple of readers’ queries. Why is it some travel insurance companies do not cover your flight if it’s cancelled due to mechanical reasons? For example, I had a ticket for Auckland to Tahiti on Air Tahiti Nui. The flight was delayed by 15 hours due to mechanical issues. I missed the flight from Tahiti to Easter Island on LAN (which was a separate ticket). Insurance refused to cover the flight missed. Air Tahiti Nui wouldn’t pay because it was on a separate ticket. How can insurance companies get away with that? Alison Hopkirk “Many basic travel policies only offer limited cover. Your travel insurance policy will detail what you are and are not covered for, and not all policies are identical. Travel insurance normally does not cover flights missed due to airline faults such as mechanical issues, rescheduling
and overbooking, as most of the time the airline has some liability to meet these costs. Insurance would only reimburse you for any costs you could not recover from the airline, if the policy covered flight delays.” My husband and I are travelling to Brisbane to meet our new great-granddaughter. We have a Westpac Platinum credit card and so qualify for free travel insurance. We are aged 75 and 79 and both in good health. When I look at the policy I am astounded to see anyone 75 years and over is NOT covered for anything medical. Alison “Frequently, travel insurance offered for free with your credit card is more limited than specialist comprehensive travel policies. Many policies will have an upper age limit, so it is worth checking the details to make sure you will be covered. You may want to consider talking to a specialist travel insurance broker who may be able to find suitable cover for your trip.”
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*Travel restrictions & conditions apply: Prices are correct as at 15 Sep 2017 & are valid for sale until 21 Sep 2017, unless withdrawn or sold out prior. All prices are subject to availability. Selected travel dates apply. Transfers are additional. | Savings have already been applied to advertised price & are based on comparison launch fares launched into the market on 26 Nov 2016. Save up to $2500 per stateroom is based on the 21 night Grand Mediterranean Collection cruise, departing 28 Apr 2018. Savings amount is varied on duration and date of travel. | Onboard credit amount varies depending on departure date and duration of cruise, is per cabin & is applied to the first 2 passengers only. Credit is nonrefundable, non-redeemable for cash & cannot be used in the medical centre or casino. | Some staterooms may have obstructed views. | Gratuities are payable on board but may be removed or adjusted at your discretion. | Auckland to Brisbane: Airfare is Economy Class (Seat+Bag) flying Air New Zealand. | General conditions: Prices are per person twin share, in NZ Dollars, unless otherwise stated. All prices & offers are subject to change & can be withdrawn at any time. Cruises are based on inside twin cabin categories (unless otherwise stated). Prices are inclusive of all discounts, charges & taxes (which are subject to change). Additional levies, government charges & other applicable fees may apply & are beyond our control. All prices are based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Prices are valid for new bookings & are not combinable with any other offer. Once sale ends, offers may revert to a higher price but also may be further discounted. Accommodation required pre/post cruise & gratuities are not included, unless otherwise specified. The cruise line may change prices or amend &/or cancel any itinerary without prior notice. Cruise inventory is allocated at the cruise lines’ discretion. Minimum & maximum stay restrictions may apply. Seasonal surcharges & blackout dates may apply depending on date of travel. Stopovers & alternative routes may incur additional costs. Packages are based on consecutive night stays. Flight Centre (NZ) Limited trading as Cruiseabout. The cruises, accommodation, airfares, coach & small group tours & any other components included in your holiday are provided by carriers & hoteliers with their own terms & conditions, which your booking is subject to. Full terms & conditions are available at www.cruiseabout.co.nz/termsandconditions | Price Guarantee Terms & Conditions: Applies to genuine cruise quotes from all cruise lines and registered travel agencies and websites. Quote must be in writing and must be presented to us prior to booking. Fare must be available and able to be booked by New Zealand passport holders who are also New Zealand residents when you bring it to us. Fares available due to membership of a group or corporate entity or subscription to a closed group are excluded. Quote must be for same dates and cabin category. We will beat price by minimum $1*pp. For full terms and conditions see www.cruiseabout.co.nz/sail-free CA48NZH190917
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 9
$$
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Island escape
Seven nights in French Polynesia, with return Air Tahiti Nui fares to get you there and back from Auckland, are priced from $4399 twin-share. You’ll fly from Papeete to Bora Bora for five nights in an Overwater Bungalow at Le Meridien Bora Bora, including daily cooked breakfasts. An extra $249 each will secure an Overwater Bungalow with a lagoon view. Two nights are spent at Le Meridien Tahiti in Papeete. Various travel periods are available. Book by March 31. Contact: Our Pacific, 0800 500 598 or ourpacific.co.nz/borabora
Send your Hot Deals to hotdeals@ nzherald.co.nz
Deal of the week
Ocean life Oc
* Check all deals with operators
Get a taste of the cruising life aboard Holland America’s ms Maasdam. A five-night voyage on one of the most spacious and comfortable ships at sea, with awardwinning service, great dining and plenty of activities is a perfect way to test the waters. Tie it in with pre-Christmas shopping in Sydney and you won’t have to worry how heavy your luggage is. Cruise in an interior stateroom for $869 pp. Bookings get a AU$200 air credit for pre-cruise flight from Auckland to Sydney. Contact: Francis Travel Marketing, 444 Con 229 or francistravelmarketing.co.nz 2298
China, covered
Return flights, visas for New Zealand passport-holders, accommodation and all your meals on a 15-day tour in China are all covered in a package price which starts at $6180 pp, twin-share. You’ll get to see the natural grandeur of the Three Gorges, cruise the Yangtze and visit the bustling cities of Shanghai, Xian and Beijing. vel plans. There are set departures. Book by April 15 next year. The giant pandas of Chengdu are also in your travel seoftravel.co.nz Contact: House of Travel, 0800 713 715 or houseoftravel.co.nz
Touring Tuscany
Ancient roaming A
Meander through Venice and explore the Grecian remains of Mea Agr Agrigento on Trafalgar’s 15-day Best of Italy and Sicily holiday departing from Rome on set dates, beginning in April. You’ll be dep tak taken through the heart of Italy to Pompeii, Naples and Sorrento, bef before hopping to Palermo. From $5150 each twin-share, almost eve everything is covered, from accommodation and many meals, to tra transport and airport transfers, plus your guides. Early payment saving of 10 per cent for payments made by October 20, or return sav flight flights to Europe for $1199. Contact: your own travel agent or Trafalgar, 0800 484 333 or Con tra tr trafalgar.com
A eight-day Tuscan Exploration dedicated to finding and tasting mouth-watering, local food and wine. You’ll sip the wines of the Chianti Valley, learn the secrets of Italian bread-making, and lunch on local cheeses and meats. Selected departures between May and September next year, and the package is priced from $1887 each, twin share. Departures from Montcatini in Tuscany. Flights from New Zealand additional. Contact: your own travel agent or Cosmos Tours, 0800 000 883 or cosmostours.co.nz
SO SOLOMONS, SO DIFFERENT HIGHLIGHTS OF THE SOLOMON ISLANDS
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info@ourpacific.co.nz OUR INCLUSIONS Airfares from Auckland via Brisbane to Honiara, flying Qantas & Solomon Airlines including all prepayable taxes & levies Accommodation share twin or double basis Bonus offers as indicated
FLIGHTS + HOTEL + BONUS OFFERS - WWW.OURPACIFIC.CO.NZ/SOLOMONS FOR MORE DETAILS & DEALS TERMS & CONDITIONS: YOUR PAYMENTS TO OUR WORLD ARE PROTECTED BY THE TAANZ BONDING. Unless otherwise stated, prices include return economy class airfares flying Qantas & Solomon Airlines ex Auckland including prepayable airline surcharges, levies and airport taxes, share twin/double accommodation, and inclusions as specified. Valid for travel commenced and completed as specified although prices for travel outside these dates may be available through Our Pacific. Must be booked by 31 March 2018 with airfares fully paid within 72 hours of confirmation. Prices are in NZ dollars and subject to currency fluctuations and are for payment by cash, eftpos or cheque only – credit card prices on application. Airfares and accommodation may not be available on all services and room categories, and capacity restrictions may apply. Airline and accommodation amendment and cancellation fees do apply and airfares are nonrefundable, non-transferable, and name changes are not permitted – please contact Our Pacific for details. Prices were correct as of 11 September 2017 and are subject to change without notification and other conditions may apply.
All transfers by air/coach/boat in the Solomon Islands
travel
10 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
bugs travel
A weekly ode to the joys of moaning about your holiday, by Tim Roxborogh
The flight departure time people miss the most So, this happened this morning. A colleague who’s been loudly and mightily proudly counting down to her Hawaiian holiday for so long that all her co-workers feel vested in the trip, nearly missed her plane. Sort of. Everyone in the office knew she was flying out on Saturday, but after all these months, it took a more pointed inquiry to save the day (literally). “What time’s your flight?” was the innocuous enough question. When the response came back as being “midnight on Saturday”, thank the travel gods somebody said, “Are you sure that’s Saturday then, as opposed to Friday night?” A panicky review of the emailed flight itinerary soon revealed what I’ve heard more times than I can count. They’d stuffed up and midnight on Saturday is actually Friday night as far as pesky things like airport timetables and, you know, calendars, are concerned. And because it’s
a universal truth that our brains can’t conceive of heading to the airport the day before we fly out, my work friend was going to be attempting a check-in approximately 21 hours after the plane to paradise had left. Crisis averted, but the near-fiasco must undoubtedly draw our attention to Gladys Knight & The Pips most famous song, Midnight Train To Georgia. Given the ubiquity of the song, not to mention the fact it was originally called Midnight Plane To Houston (true story), how many people booked on midnight trains and planes over the years have been humming this song at the precise moment they learn they’re a day too late? Good times. People who clap when the plane lands This madness has got to stop. I tried to find out when the bizarre phenomenon of airplane touchdown clapping began, but all I could find are various articles explaining how people believe their country is unique in busting out a round of applause when the plane lands. Lonely Planet even wrote a piece about this very thing, saying that yes, it’s dumb to clap, and no, your corner of the world is not the only one that does it. I first experienced it in 2006, on the tarmac at JFK airport in New York. Maybe in a post-9/11-America passengers were
simultaneously more jittery and therefore more appreciative of safe arrival. But why do the Irish clap in Ireland? Why the Puerto Ricans? Why the Russians? My research suggests the Filipinos are major proponents of the landing clap. Can’t get enough of it, apparently. One theory is that it spread outwards from the States and if it existed pre-9/11, it certainly got exponentially bigger afterwards. But the applause suggests something that’s more than a little silly: that landing in one piece is against the odds and maybe even a bit of an unexpected bonus. Alternatively, the clapping could imply that passengers — who generally speaking, know next to nothing about aviation — are patronisingly saying, “good effort, captain!” to a pilot with thousands of hours’ experience. Maybe if you’re in a little four-seater and you fly into a storm of cinematic proportions and both engines cut out and your pilot manages to glide into a lagoon before pulling you to safety on the beach, maybe then you can clap. Otherwise it’s as lame as clapping at the end of movie, which, by the way, happened during the closing credits of The Lion King and I’ve been scarred ever since. Tim Roxborogh hosts Newstalk ZB’s The Two, Coast Soul on Coast and writes the RoxboroghReport.com.
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travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 11
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For full terms and conditions please go to www.LuxuryEscapes.com or call the Luxury Escapes information line on0800 441 457. Flights are not included. The value and comparative savings has been determined based on the hotels rack rates and the value of inclusions. Please be advised that rack rates may not be reflective of actual rates being charged, dependent on the timing and manner of your booking and therefore are only indicative of the level of saving. Images are for representational purposes only. All information is correct at time of print. *Surcharges and blackout dates apply, check website for full details. ^Up to two kids aged 12 years or younger can stay free sharing existing bedding inclusive of meals and kids’ club.
travel
12 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Longhaul
with kids Picture / 123RF
As many women have discovered, having a family or young baby in tow on a longhaul journey changes the whole flight dynamic, writes Julia Beck. But how do you make the experience better?
Y
ou think a long haul flight is rough? Try flying with kids. Kiwis planning a holiday with the kids to Europe next year will have visions of a fun-filled vacation and relaxation with family. But having junior sitting in your lap changes the whole dynamic. Allyson Downey, founder of WeeSpring, a baby advice company, travels for work but she notices a very different, lower standard of care when she travels with her family. “Parents are business travellers too,” she says. Downey is a very regular business traveller — so much so she earned enough points to take her family of four to South Africa for a vacation. Caitlin Zaino, founder of Porter and Sail, a travel concierge service, has similar feedback when flying alone as opposed to with her newborn. “When women fly with their children, we are no longer treated as executive-level frequent travellers,” Zaino said. “I travel regularly with my son. He’s still breastfeeding so when I need to travel for work, he comes with me. I find I am no longer seen as that executive traveller. I’m “infant in arms”. “Even when I travel without him, there’s no place to pump in flight (I was once told to use the galley in the middle of the aircraft), and freezer bags for milk on the way home have been tossed by security, rendering days of breast milk unusable,” she said. Zaino sums it up: “My status as mother overtakes my status as CEO or frequent traveller.” It is not the same experience in terms of respect or customer care, she says. Not even close. Author Jessica Shyba has a large family who travel quite often. She shared her take on family travel via email. “We fly as a party of seven with kids aged 10, 8, 5, 2, and 6 months. Travelling
“Parents are business travellers too.”
ALLYSON DOWNEY
is hard, no matter what, though. Everyone is stressed out and impatient,” she said. Natalie Goldberg Klein, owner of the Los Angeles-based Hot Moms Club, says the cost goes up, quickly, when travelling with kids. “Pay to be seated together, pay to upgrade seats to sit closer to the front, to make sure adults get an aisle and that we will have overhead space for carry-ons. Pay to precheck,” she lists off. Corinne McDermott, founder of Have Baby Will Travel, shared how the price of travelling with family keeps going up. “There are only three options: Pay to sort it out online, use your time to sort it out on the phone or hope to sort it out at the gate,” she says. “Choosing to fly, we don’t get to set the rules. We must play by their rules. You have to swallow a lot of unpleasant things: it is not fair, but it is the way it is now.” Jessica Hartshorn, entertainment editor for Parents Magazine, says changes have been quick and rough on family travel. “Having covered family travel for 20 years as a journalist, and been travelling with my own kids for 15 years, I definitely remember the old advice to book an aisle and window seat for yourself and your kid, or yourself plus lap baby and your partner,” she says. “The idea was that no one was likely to book the middle seat. But these days, planes run a very tight ship. Every seat gets filled. There’s no gaming the system so you luck out with an empty spot in your row.”
What to do
Book it right: Know your options and take advantage of best case planning. Learn what choices exist for your trip and create an itinerary to have as little stress as possible. Try to avoid early morning flights. Not only does this give your family the benefit of a decent night’s sleep,
but it keeps you out of the way of commuter travel. Plan flights with few or no connections. And if you must connect, leave plenty of room for delays and other hiccups. Know the rules: Plan around them and plan for extra time. For example, in the United States, TSA limits liquids, so simply do not make that an issue. Plan to buy food and beverages once beyond security to avoid any potential delays. If you are travelling with breast pumps or related feeding supplies, become well-versed not only in TSA regulations but also language and expectations (for example frozen means completely so. Anything more liquefied than solid ice will cause a delay.) Make sure your children know the rules and what to expect as well. Be prepared with a family strategy, patience and tools for the road: Turn the whole of the experience into an adventure where you make your way to victory as a team. Get kids involved with choosing snacks, what they will do to occupy themselves while waiting or while on the flight. Design anything that will get them on board for a positive trip with bonus points for good attitudes. Many parents bring gifts, surprises, offer extended screen time and invent other ways to win while en route. I am still an old-school fan of I-Spy (airports make for great people watching). Make sure the whole family is part of the fun of getting from point A to part B. Pay up: Know you need to make the investment to avoid the usual problems of family air travel. Factor this into your budget — do you need to pay extra to sit together? Extra checked baggage? Front of plane seating? Lounge passes? — anything that will simplify the trip. If you can budget for it, the cost beats the alternative of a tensionfilled trip and sets your whole family up for an excellent adventure. — Washington Post
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 13
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travel
14 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Early Bird Season
Royal treatment
CASTELLO DI PAVONE, Pavone Canavese, Italy
With exterior walls dating back to the 9th century, this castle is truly ancient, with a Romanesque church in the inner courtyard built in 850. The castle itself dates to the 14th century and served as a lookout to protect the surrounded estate from northern invasions. Despite the long history, the rooms within mix traditional furnishings with modern amenities.
building is located in the heart of the Verdon Natural Park, so there’s plenty of natural beauty to explore in the surroundings. All the guest rooms contain open fireplaces, perfect to cosy up in front of and imagine the past.
With the help of Booking.com, we’ve found five real European castles where you can indulge your fairy tale fantasies
THORNBURY CASTLE, Thornbury, England
If you choose to book this castle, you’ll be in royal company; King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn slept in one of the bedchambers and walked through the ancients gardens. Rich with history, Thornbury is the only Tudor castle in England to be opened as a hotel. The vineyard has existed for over 500 years and still produces wine today. Activities on offer include croquet and archery, clay pigeon shooting and even falconry, which can be arranged with prior notice.
LANGLEY CASTLE HOTEL, LangleyOn-Tyne, England
This magnificent, 14th-century castle (pictured) is located among 12 acres of woodland, with rooms complete with four-poster beds to add to that fairy tale experience. Built in 1350 during the reign of Edward III, it’s the perfect location to explore the nearby Hadrian’s Wall. Afterwards, enjoy a drink in the superb drawing room, with stained-glass windows and a log fire.
CHATEAU D’ESPARRON, Esparronde-Verdon, France
LUTTRELLSTOWN CASTLE RESORT, Luttrellstown, Ireland Nestled within a 560-acre estate, this castle can be rented for up to 24 guests, complete with a private chef and team of staff on hand. The 12-bedroom property boasts an elegant sitting room, cosy library and billiard room complete with a full-sized pool table and bar. Enjoy meals in the castle’s elegant grand dining room after trying the many outdoor pursuits on offer.
Picture / Getty Images
This French castle is a five-minute walk from the beach, with stunning panoramic views of Lake Esparron from the top of its 30m tower. With foundations in the 13th century, this historic
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travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 15
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travel
16 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Early Bird Season
»
Nice
& greasy
The workingman’s cafe has a long and respectable tradition in England, selling an unfashionable cuisine: the fry up. John Bishop visits three of London’s finest
Y
ou know that the fry up is still ok when respectable national newspapers like the Daily Telegraph and the Daily Mail break away from endless coverage of the Royals and the fresh horrors of the political left to present features like “The Ten Best Greasy Spoons in London”. They are joined by the much more populist entertainment bible of London, Time Out, which regularly publishes similar articles and reviews. Regardless of the debate about the health merits of this style of cuisine, it remains immensely popular in the UK, even if this style of cafe has all but disappeared from New Zealand’s main centres. The classic British fry up, as presented in cafes and B and Bs up and down the land is bacon, sausages, eggs (almost invariably fried), baked beans (almost always Heinz) with toast, and often with additions like hash browns, mushrooms, tomatoes and black pudding, with some fried bread to mop up the residual grease. These cholesterol-laden delights are an integral part of the B and B experience.
The so-called greasy spoons met a similar purpose; hearty and filling breakfasts for the working man, particularly the man who has started early and is now taking a break. Nowadays the typical customer isn’t someone in overalls and a cloth cap. The customer could easily be a young city gent in a stylish suit, or a well-cut jacket and jeans with no tie. A notable feature is the relative absence of women. That’s not quite true at the Regency cafe in Westminster, a short walk from Victoria Station — once a working class area, but now very definitely one of the posher parts of London. It is also one of the best eating spots for a classic English breakfast at a very economical £5.50 ($9.75). There are additions and variations: homemade hash browns, bubble and squeak, black pudding, omelettes. And there are burgers, sandwiches and rolls to go. Pies, pasties and pasta are available later in the day There is a ritual process. Queue up to order — sometimes the queue is out the door. Sit at Formica tables with plastic chairs. Pick up from the counter when your meal is ready.
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The man who takes your money pours the tea, makes the toast, and calls your name when your order is up. The tea is the colour of teak, you could use the remains to varnish the woodwork. On the table are the three sauces, tomato, brown and black, and vinegar, all in plastic bottles. Eat and look at the pictures of Spurs in their heyday (shortly after WWII). Also on the walls are the magazine covers (Vogue) and photo spreads that have been shot here. The walls are tiled, the floor is lino, and the curtains, made of red gingham, cover only half the windows, a style popular in the 1940s. Preserving the 40s style authentically is a key to the charm of the place. The fashionable crowd of 30-somethings seem to love the place and their food. Out in Bethnal Green, a genuine part of the East End and a decent tube ride away from Westminster is E Pellici. This small suburban eatery with its wooden panelling, low ceiling and pictures of the stars of EastEnders on the wall used to be the local hangout of the notorious 60s gangsters Ronnie and Reggie Kray. There are just 28 seats packed inside and a few more outside.
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travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 17
Clockwise from left: The Regency Cafe (the posh one); Marie’s (the Thai one); E Pellici (the Italian one) has pictures of East Enders stars adorning its walls. Pictures / John Bishop
I order a full English: sausage, two strips of bacon, tomatoes, and a fried egg on white toast. It comes with a good strong cuppa. Later I take a cappuccino – the place is owned and run by Italians after all — and that’s pretty good too. All up, that’s £7. This time there are genuine English working men in the cafe getting through breakfasts twice the size of mine. A local contractor has men working on the water pipes; I see the logos of an electrical company on the uniforms of another
group. They are all chowing down happily. It’s a family business: Dad at the counter directing traffic and taking money. Mum and daughter serving, clearing, wiping and talking to the customers. There’s a warmth in their smiles as they dish up hearty food. My final visit is to Marie’s, a thoroughly authentic workingclass cafe, although it is run by a Thai couple. It becomes a Thai restaurant in the evening and is recognised for the quality of its Thai food. No one comes for the decor.
I order the number 2 breakfast: 2 rashers of bacon, one egg with chips, beans and tea. With that comes a single slice of white bread, thickly sliced from a torpedo loaf, all for £4.90. Here there is a babble of accents, cut-glass posh from a man intent on impressing his three female companions, Cockney, South London and two American girls from Minnesota there by accident while looking for Sherlock Holmes’ house. Marie’s is at the side of Waterloo Station, in a designated street market. There’s been trading here since 1377. Locals stream in and out, eating, drinking, chatting and enjoying the morning sun while getting their stalls ready for customers.
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CONDITIONS: Valid for new bookings only. Prices valid at 08 Sept 17 • Singapore Airlines airfares valid until 6 Oct 17 or until sold out and valid for travel commenced and completed 16 Jan-20 Jun 18 • $1 stopover package is available to passengers stopping over in Singapore en-route to another destination. Prices may be subject to relevant service charges & government taxes or currency fluctuations and may change without prior notice. All flights into and out of Singapore must be flying Singapore Airlines & partner airlines. KrisFlyer mileage does not apply for hotel bookings made under the Singapore Stopover Holiday packages. Booking is subject to availability • London Stay: based on a family of 2 adults and 2 children staying at Vancouver Studios in a 2 bedroom apartment, travel 01 Apr-31 Oct 18. To receive a Harry Potter Film Locations Walking Tour family pass (2adults/2 children) you must book this apartment by 30 Sep 17 (or until sold out) • Amendment, cancellation and credit card fees apply. Further terms and conditions apply. For more information see instore or visit www.hot.co.nz CMPUKEEB1017
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18 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Early Bird Season :Caption2
»
Dancing in Berlin After a few days in the city, ich bin ein Berliner too, declares Eli Orzessek
I
Poland
t’s the middle of the day, but people Denmark are dancing like it’s 3am. I’m in a park, but techno music is blaring and Hamburg crowds of youngsters looking slightly Berlin the worse for wear are throwing their Germany limbs around like they’re still in the Czech club. That’s Berlin for you — if nothing else, Frankfurt R. they know how to party. And it’s not just a Switz. Friday and Saturday night thing here — many of the biggest clubs open Thursday night and stay open until Tuesday. Wednesday, I presume, is the day to rejuvenate yourself, brush your teeth and change your clothes before it all starts up again. I’m told by an artist friend who moved here a few months ago that there are many inter- GETTING THERE esting visas that travellers can apply for to Qatar Airways flies from extend their party. She tells me I should apply Auckland to Berlin, via for a DJ visa — which is apparently a thing Doha, with return here — and by the end of my short time in Economy Class fares from this fabulous city, I’m seriously considering $1790. qatarairways.com it. We’ve started our Saturday night out in Kreuzberg, at a nightspot called Mobel-Olfe. Near the Kottsbusser Tor station, there’s a sprawling 1960s housing estate that’s home to many Turkish
Checklist
BERLIN
families, as well as this often rowdy queer “trinkhalle”, or drinking hall. Once a furniture store, it’s now sparse but interestingly furnished, with satellites as lampshades. The beers are cheap and easy to drink and before I know it, we’ve missed the concert we’d planned to attend. The Mobel-Olfe is getting to its usual level of crowded, so we head around the corner to a bar so small I couldn’t even tell you its name, with a staircase leading to an even smaller room downstairs where the music pumps and people dance accordingly. Down there, I run into another old friend from my art school years — it’s like that in Berlin. Before I know it, it’s 6.30am and I’m on the U-Bahn, heading back to my Airbnb with a pounding head. It all feels very authentic. Time
really is different in Berlin. Despite worries that I might have wasted one of my precious few days of travel with a hangover, I wake in the late morning with surprising clarity. I’m staying in Prenzlauer Berg, a suburb in what used to be East Berlin, complete with the classic Ampelmann traffic lights. Once rundown, it’s since been highly gentrified, the Ponsonby of Berlin. But this is Berlin, so it’s still fairly gritty – in the local parks, the statues come with a heavy coating of graffiti. The famous Mauerpark Flea Market is a five-
READY TO GO
TO EUROPE? See your local travel agent, call 0800 484 333 or visit costsaver.trafalgar.com Operated by *Terms & Conditions: Per day price based on Wonders of Turkey departing 4 April 2018 . For full details visit costsaver.trafalgar.com or see your local travel agent.
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 19
Clockwise from far left: Those Ampelmann traffic lights; waffle on a stick; the flea market in Mauerpark where the outdoor karaoke is a star attraction. Pictures / Madeleine Ball; Florian Ramel; Eli Orzessek
minute walk away. That’s where I encounter the daytime dancers, flailing in a field through the gusts of charcoal barbecue smoke. After a while, this strange performance is getting a little too Berlin for me, so I head to the main market area in search of food and a cold bottle of Club Mate to wake me up. Soon I realise this is the holy grail of flea markets — records for sale everywhere, a huge variety of food and drinks and the absolute best people-spotting you can imagine. There’s truly something for everyone here. At one stall, I spot a large taxidermied poodle with a piercing glassyeyed stare, propped up between a typewriter, a statue of the Virgin Mary and child and a sign that reads “impragnierungs-nachweis” — or “impregnation-proof”. I settle my stomach with a traditional serving of currywurst and chips, before washing it down with a wild-boar burger and a large waffle on a stick. I continue to circle around the stalls, searching for that one rare record I might have missed. Hours have passed, I realise, so I decide to head back to the Airbnb and drop off my purchases. I pass the party in the grass again and it’s since quadrupled in size, as well as in intensity. I can’t stay away for long though and after a quick rest, I’m back to grab a beer and chill out in the big karaoke amphitheatre next to the market, where punters from all over the world get their turn on the mic in front of a huge, responsive audience. I find a rare bit of space and settle on the grass, remnants of the Berlin Wall behind me. A scruffy pair take the stage down below and the familiar
20 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Early Bird Season
travel
»
So nice, so civil,
so Danish
Sun, seas and sand intoxicate on a whistlestop tour of Jutland in the historic and colourful north of Denmark, writes Warren Chrismas
I
TOP PICKS 2018
WALKING TOURS
’m cycling leisurely around the streets of Skagen in the far north of Denmark, and my imagination is clearly running away with me. I’m wishfully eyeing up the properties and picturing myself living here. I’ve been in the harbour town for only a few hours and I’m a little bit smitten. Really, I don’t know what’s come over me. I’m intoxicated by the fresh seaside air and dazzled by the bright light that has lured artists for more than a century. I’m knocked out by the fact that virtually all the houses are painted in a gorgeous yellow ochre or “Skagen yellow”, with rooftops covered in bright red tiles and edged in white. I assume a law ensures the striking uniformity but, no, our local tour guide assures us residents are voluntarily sticking to tradition. It all seems so nice. So civil. I’m in Denmark to explore North Jutland, the most northerly region, which tempts visitors with 1500km of white beaches and several natural marvels, not to mention the chance to indulge in Viking history and Nordic cuisine. Aalborg, gateway to the region, is an industrial city at heart, but has a few points of interest. We stroll around the old town, visit the House of Music on the waterfront and — by chance — catch
North Sweden Skagen Sea
Denmark Copenhagen
Checklist DENMARK GETTING THERE Emirates flies daily A380 services from Auckland through to Copenhagen via its Dubai hub. Economy Class return fares start from $1889. emirates.com
the Queen of Denmark boarding her official boat. We order a classic herring-on-rye-bread open sandwich at a restaurant in the Utzon Centre, an exhibition space designed by locally born Jorn Utzon, who designed Sydney Opera House. We head a little out of town to Norresundby to visit Lindholm Hoje, a Viking site dating back to the fifth century. An expert guide is on hand to tell us what the numerous rock formations represent. Background knowledge and some imagination are required here. The exhibits in the museum are more tangible — especially the surprisingly intricate brooches and buckles from the Iron Age. In the evening we head to Mortens Kro, Aalborg’s best-known restaurant, owned by flamboyant celebrity chef Morten Nielsen. Highlights include a lobster soup and a summer berry dessert. The garish decor — with some highly risque artwork — isn’t quite as easy to digest. The following morning we drive 48km west to breakfast at the popular Svinklov Badehotel, a 90-year-old seaside retreat that offers a homely atmosphere and exceptional food. It’s not easy securing a room here, but it’s worth popping by for tea and the speciality layer cake. About 13,000 slices are sold each year. Standing on the adjacent beach, with seemingly endless stretches of sand in either direc-
tion, I’m tempted to wander off and lose myself for a few hours, but there’s lots to see over two days and I’m on a tight schedule. We head north to Rabjerg Mile, a spectacular migrating dune. Amazingly, the 100ha stretch of sand is moving northeast at up to 18m a year. We find ourselves on top of a huge ridge with fine white sand in every direction. I feel I’ve been transported to a desert in another continent. We continue north — in fact, as far north as it’s possible to drive — to the popular tourist destination, Grenen. We catch the Sandormen, a tractor and trailer service that takes us to the end of a 3km sandbar where, famously, the Skagerrak (part of North Sea) and the Kattegat (Baltic Sea) collide in fairly spectacular fashion. Swimming is prohibited as currents are so strong, but plenty of visitors can be seen paddling and posing for a photo with a foot in each sea. Finally, it’s on to Skagen, the jewel in the crown of North Jutland. Danes pronounce it as Skane, with a long “a” and a silent “g”. After a satisfying lunch at Pakhuset, a charming seafood restaurant packed with colourful wooden mastheads, we head to Skagens Museum to admire paintings from renowned local artists Laurits Tuxen and P S Kroyer. They’re as mesmerising as the town itself. Although it has the feel of a small harbour or marina, Skagen is the country’s busiest fishing port. In summer the population expands from less than 10,000 to 50,000 with hotels and campsites full to bursting. — PA
WALKING IN
WALKING IN
PORTUGAL & MOROCCO JAPAN
IRELAND
Colourful Portugal with walks in Lisbon, Sintra and the Douro and exotic Morocco from Rabat to Marrakech. Uncover fascinating history and cultures. Stay in riads and quintas and boutique hotels.
Follow in Basho’s footsteps from Tokyo, through the iconic scenery of the Tohoku region, along the Sea of Japan coast to Kyoto. Visit hot springs, stay in local inns and enjoy exquisite Japanese food.
Walking is the perfect way to appreciate Ireland’s landscape, make quirky discoveries, and experience warm hospitality. Diverse landscapes with old paths and roads and rich history and folklore to enjoy.
25 nights | 12 April – 07 May 2018
16 nights | 26 May – 11 June 2018
17 nights | 02 – 19 September 2018
2018 TOUR BROCHURE OUT NOW 0800 853 276 | cnltours@hot.co.nz | www.calderandlawsontours.co.nz
WALKING IN
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 21
‘Second’ city won’t play second fiddle The western Danish city of Aarhus — one of two European capitals of culture in 2017 — is using the year to reinvent itself, as well as tracing its roots. Perhaps the most exciting way to arrive in Aarhus is by amphibious aircraft, landing in the bay. Waves splash around the small red and white plane as it bobs in the harbour, gateway to a young, creative city, intent on stepping out of the shadow of Copenhagen, Denmark’s more hip capital. “The world’s smallest big city” is how the inhabitants of Aarhus affectionately describe their city. Mayor Jacob Bundsgaard says the year is “one of the most ambitious cultural projects of all time in Denmark”. In order to cope, the city of almost 320,000 people that is home to a university, a large container shipping port and a lively music and culture scene, has opted to cooperate with the surrounding region. Events under the theme “Let’s Rethink” are scattered over 19 municipalities involving several hundred cultural institutions in the Central Denmark Region. The people of Aarhus want to explore and build on their own history during the year as the city traces its history to an eighth-century Viking settlement. Programmer Juliana Engberg says she would recommend visitors — both from other parts of Denmark and other countries — explore the city and its surroundings by bike. “It is a great way to discover the country,” Engberg says. “That’s how people get around here. ” Suggested routes include riding from the west to the east coast of Jutland. Mayor Bundsgaard also wants to attract tourists — especially Germans — from their summer houses on the Danish west coast. “You can experience both,” he says, referring to the beach and the city. “The distances are not so long.” Along with numerous festivals, concerts and exhibitions, there are also smaller intimate moments for visitors, organisers have pledged. Aarhus estimates that 5 million people will visit the region in 2017, boosting a rise in recent years. Bundsgaard is aware that media attention also plays a role. “We hope to leave a lasting impression,” he says. “In Europe, but also elsewhere, there is a trend towards ‘second’ cities as more and more people visit the secondlargest cities because they have already been in the main cities and want to experience something new,” Bundsgaard says. Engberg says Aarhus is a brand of its own and does not have to play second fiddle to the capital, which in 1996 was European capital of culture. “The city feels quite different from Copenhagen,” she says, a bit like Melbourne from where she hails. It has an atmosphere of “young charisma, this really pretty grassroots feeling”. — AAP
EUROPE RIVER CRUISING
Wachau Valley, Austria
“The world’s smallest big city”. Pictures / Getty Images
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Sloping terraces at Moesgaard Museum in Aarhus.
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22 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Rail journeys
»
Get on track Europe by rail has its charms, but check the terms of your ticket booking, advises Rachel Parkin
H
e cut an intimidating figure cloaked in shadow at Bad Reichenhall train station. Tall. Broad shoulders. Widebrimmed hat. An ensemble that — in my simple mind — immediately conjured up the Heisenberg character in cult American drama Breaking Bad. But once our Austrian host was under the light, his beaming face proved quite the opposite. “Guten Abend, Kuschzggz Weissch dem Chasschsz?” Martin Fuchs (snr) seemed to say, hand outstretched. Cue panicked high school German that probably translated to: “Me Rachel, this Michael… hallo, sausage chicken?” And we were off — as if it was all quite normal — Martin driving us from the outskirts of Bavaria across the Austrian border to the tiny village of Unken. In our prior communication his Englishspeaking son Martin (jnr) — the professional speed skater-turned ski instructor — had promised “a relaxing stay in nature” and “to meet our culture”. And so it was. An Austrian home away from home (our room was upstairs next to Grandma’s). Stunning scenery. Hearty, traditional food. And bulk, local beer (thanks to Martin snr’s long-time employment with Steigl brewery). Our time at the Fuchs’ was also a technicolour advertisement for exploring Western Europe by rail, as mature(ish) backpackers, in winter. After all why would you fly — suffering through airport queues and lost baggage — when venturing off tourist-beaten paths into the regions, with fairytale views to boot, is so easy? (Except in France — where it’s fraught with frustration and exorbitant fees — but I’ll get to that later). In this case, we’d stumbled into an Austrian landscape befitting a luxury biscuit tin and we had it to our polyprop-swaddled selves. It would have been rude not to. So — borrowed Nordic poles in tow we set off — hiking the network of trails around Salzburger Saalachtal’s multi-coloured chalets, immaculate gardens
TRAIN TIPS ● Over-25s must buy a first-class pass ● Some countries require seat reservations ● Reservations often incur additional fees ● If extra travel time/train changes don’t bother you reservations and/or fees can sometimes be avoided by using a string of provincial trains ● To avoid a platform sprint, check the assigned position of your carriage on the composition board (these line up with A, B, C etc marked along the platform) ● Book accommodation near the central train station to avoid lugging bags ● Use the bathrooms on board — they are clean and free — a blessing in Europe ● Take food and drink with you and avoid the (often) expensive train menu.
and pristine woodpiles . . . until we lost light. And we ate. First, came the mouthwatering knodel (Bavarian dumplings) at the family-run Heutaler Hof down the road. The next day we arrived home to coffee, biscuits and Christstollen (rich Austrian Christmas cake). And later that night (after tucking into local sausages, black bread and vegetables in our room) the invitation from downstairs extended to Steigls and a tour of the 16th century family farm to get fresh milk for breakfast. It is true that all of this could have happened with a flight into Salzburg, but would it have? Would we have bothered with the 45-minute bus ride after the rigmarole of flying? On the flip-side, train travel also deposits you right in the city centres. Take Prague. Five minutes on foot from its central station and you’re in the medieval Old Town sipping gluhwein and eating sausage-infused street food. Or Rome. A 10-minute walk here and you’re pushing through selfie pole hawkers (how does everyone get half-price?) to snap your own selfie at the Colosseum.
Above: Europe by rail is still a romantic journey, whether you are travelling through cities (Prague, above) or the countryside. Pictures / Honza Bartos; Getty Images
Or Amsterdam. Here, dump your bags, join the mad throng of bikers and quickly pedal past coffee shops and along canals … to its trendy 9 Streets district. And here’s the curveball. European winter travel needn’t be freezing. Though our ski week in the French Alps was magical, we also swam on the Cote d’Azur and sweated our way up hundreds of steps at Italy’s Cinque Terre in short sleeves, passing just one other couple the entire day. Which brings me to my second winter clincher. No crowds. And the third plus? Accommodation. So much cheaper. In winter, a five-star luxury resort in Portugal’s sun-kissed Algarve (owned by former international footballer Luis Figo no less) is easily within financial reach. Even for two journalists. But as mentioned there is a major caveat. La France. Les coqs rule their own rail roost. As a couple in our 30s we were a tad miffed to discover we didn’t qualify for the cheapest EuRail pass. By age-default (that is, over 25) we were in fact . . . first class travellers. So, largely thanks to France, gone are the days of freewheeling around Europe. You must plan to make the rail pass costeffective. But if you do (and that needn’t mean weeks in advance, just days) it’s well worth it. In the grand scheme of our two-month rail rodeo the French resistance was but a blip . . . and to be totally honest, the compulsory first class travel, a welcome treat. We saw countryside, mountain ranges, villages, lakes and rivers we never would have by plane. And there is still a romance about rail. How could there not be with supermarket beer and a whole lot less navigational bickering?
A train in Europe. Picture: Rob Dammers
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 23
AWAKEN THE STORYTELLER IN YOU
GET UP TO Lyngenfjord 1 Ullsfjord
Tromsø
1
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Bergen 2 Helsinki 2 SWEDEN Låtefoss 2 Stockholm Tallinn Oslo Telemark 1 2 ESTONIA Vemork Heddal
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1 Granada
Costa del Sol
Rome 21
1
2
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Superior hotels • Deluxe coaches with WiFiˆ • Immersive experiences • Expert tour directors • Regional cuisine • Many more itineraries to choose from
P29/26712/NZH
Call 0800 267 669, Visit globustours.co.nz or see your travel agent *Terms & Conditions: All care is taken to promote correct pricing at time of printing (14/09/17), is dependent upon availability and will be confirmed at time of reservation. Advertised prices do not include airfares. Book a 2018 Globus UK or Europe tour and receive an Air Credit to use towards an airfare of your choice. Air Credit value will range from $400–$1000 per person and is based on the duration of the core-tour (excluding intra-tour flights) not including extensions or extra night accommodation. Valid for new 2018 bookings made between 13/09/17–28/11/17 only or until sold out (offers subject to limited availability and may be withdrawn prior to specified date – please refer to website for most up to date information). Air Credit applies once only per passenger based on the duration of the longest tour booked (multiple tour bookings will not qualify for multiple Air Credits). To secure offer a non-refundable, non-transferable $250 per person/per tour deposit must be received within 7 days of booking (or by 28/11/17; whichever comes first). The Air Credit will be processed as a discount off the booking invoice at time of reservation. Should you cancel or change your tour, this Air Credit becomes null and void and the full cost of any airfare purchased or any associated change fees will be your responsibility. All airline payment and cancellation terms are completely independent of Globus. Globus is not responsible for any booking element of the airfare which you have utilised the credit for, even if SafetyNet Protection has been purchased. Globus cancellation penalties apply as per standard terms and conditions. SafetyNet Protection may be purchased, standard conditions apply. SafetyNet Protection cover relates only to the Globus portion of the booking and does not cover any associated airfares booked in conjunction with this offer. The Air Credit is 100% non-refundable and non-transferable under all circumstances and is handled as a discount off the tour portion. Save 15% off second and subsequent tours based on standard 10% Globus Earlybird discount + 5% Second Tour discount. Standard conditions as per brochure apply. Discount based on land only, core tour and on twin share price, not including extra night accommodations, extensions, taxes/fees, tips and supplements/reductions. Offers may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other special promotion or discount except the 5% Repeat Travellers discount (standard Journeys Club discount conditions apply). Air Credit offer valid for Singles (single supplement applies). Air Credit offer not valid for Groups. Offers can be withdrawn or amended at any time. Additional restrictions may apply. Full Globus 2018 terms & conditions apply, please ensure you read these prior to booking – see the 2018 Globus UK & Europe brochure or visit globustours.co.nz ˆWi-Fi on coaches where available.
travel
24 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Rail journeys
ROYAL CARRIAGES Eli Orzessek looks at some of the most luxurious — and expensive — train journeys in the world TRAIN SUITE SHIKI-SHIMA
Launched in March this year, a ride on Japan’s luxury Train Suite Shiki-Shima doesn’t come cheap — fares start at a whopping $4000 per person. However, you’re riding in what’s essentially a five-star hotel on wheels, with routes through northeastern Japan. The interiors are a mixture of traditional and modern design, with two glass-walled observatory cars to admire the views from.
BELMOND VENICE SIMPLON ORIENT-EXPRESS
Running from London to Paris, Prague, Vienna and Budapest, this luxury ride dates back to the 1920s and its Art Deco finery has been lovingly restored. It’s a return to the golden age of travel, with vintage cabins complete with sparkling crystal, plush fabrics and polished wood.
ROYAL SCOTSMAN
The UK’s only luxury sleeper train explores the highlands, lowlands and coasts of Scotland, with twoor four-night journeys. It also hosts special events like the Royal Scotsman Classic Whisky Journey, touring the Scottish distilleries. Passengers can pamper themselves in the newly launched spa carriage.
ROVOS RAIL, SOUTH AFRICA
With eight routes through Africa, including Victoria Falls and the Durban Safari, as well as a trans-African route between Cape Town and Cairo. Though there
Picture / Getty Images are several different trains in the Rovos fleet, they all offer five-star luxury, with Victorian-style dining cars and wood-panelled suites.
THE GOLDEN EAGLE, RUSSIA
The Golden Eagle travels in areas mostly unseen
by Western tourists, including Mongolia and Uzbekistan. But its most famous journeys are the Trans-Mongolian Express and the TransSiberian Express. The luxurious suites come with a complimentary bottle of Dom Perignon champagne — a perfect toast to start the journey.
travel
Rail journeys
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 25
»
Train eases from a jog to a cautious walk across spectacular bridge, writes Anna Bracewell-Worrall
I
f you want to get somewhere in a hurry, you don’t catch a train in Myanmar. It’s not that the trains are late — although they often are — it’s just that they are so slow it’s impressive they generate enough momentum to move forward at all. And that is exactly what makes the journey so much fun. Trains chugging along the historic, beautiful, must-do route across Shan State’s Goteik Viaduct move at an average speed of 15km/h. Our trip from colonial hill station Pyin Oo Lwin to trekking base-town Hsipaw took seven hours to cover a grand total of 100km. But when you’re moving at the speed of a light jog, nobody’s counting, and the sleepy pace sets the tone for the whole journey. There’s an indisputable serenity to getting on a train with a carriage full of people who all know it’s going to take seven hours to travel 100km, but bought tickets anyway. You bump along, sharing snacks with your neighbours, sticking your head out the window, waving to local kids and ducking back in when the track-side vegetation whips into the carriage. Only two trains do this route each day, one up, one down, so it’s a constant battle between the track-side wild flowers and the train’s gaping windows. The train moves through the flora like a very slow, very blunt weed eater. Don’t wear white — you will definitely get grass stains. As the train jogs through the picturesque countryside, women move through the carriages selling their wares. We get canned coffee, steamed peanuts and fresh noodles. Our neighbours lean over to offer us some of their betel. “Makes you cuckoo,” the man says, pointing to his head. It’s a mild stimulant; peppery, spicy and numbing at first, then it gets you a bit tingly all over. We spit the juice out the side of the carriage. Great globs of red spit join the rail-side shrubs. The head rush makes it all hilarious. With your head out of the window, you get a great view of the incredible sideways swing of the carriages ahead. According to train-nerd website Seat61, the swinging is thanks to a mismatch between the size of the tracks and the width of the (very old) Chinese carriages. It’s pleasant, not sickening. Perhaps that’s because we are moving, in case you forgot, at the speed of a herd of cows meandering home for the night. The train buffs are on board to experience an incredible feat of engineering — the Gokteik Viaduct. The bridge spans a deep, astonishing gorge. At the time of construction, it was the world’s largest railway trestle, and it remains Myanmar’s highest bridge. It was built to last 100 years. That was in 1900. There have been main-
Slow but sure is fun Hsipaw Pyin Oo Lwin Goke Hteik Viaduct
Burma
Thailand Rangoon
Checklist MANDALAYLASHIO TRAIN DETAILS The train chugs up through Shan State once a day, leaving Mandalay at 4am, arriving in Pyin Oo Lwin at 7.40am daily (where it will wait for 30 minutes) and getting to Hsipaw at 4pm, where most of the tourists will get off. Seats on the left-hand side offer the best views. Clockwise from right: A carriage full of happy travellers; women sell their wares; the state of the train doesn’t matter; Anna Bracewell-Worrall hangs out the window. Pictures / Hayden Eastmond-
TOP TIP
Many things in Myanmar are still done manually, including the train ticketing system. If you don’t want to pay a small commission to an agent or guest house to sort it out for you, you have to buy your ticket from the station awe than the you’re travelling from. bridge across it. Smaller stations may open for just a couple of We travel in hours each afternoon. If you’re travelling upper upper class, class, you can buy your ticket three days in which means the advance. Ordinary class tickets are only seats are padded. available the day before. There is no It doesn’t mean website for Myanmar Rail — the much more. The carinternet is about as fast as the riage is grubby and my trains. footrest falls to the floor with a clank. A mouse runs by. There are USB plugs that don’t work and A/C vents that also don’t work. Seats have a reclining tenance works since then, but the train slows to function, but they might not. None of this mata cautious walk across the bridge, giving every- ters. The trip is beautiful, hilarious and serene. one plenty of time to gape at the scenery. Vast We paid $6 for two tickets. This is quite possibly and wild, for me, the gorge itself inspires more the world’s cheapest trip of a lifetime.
I
t’s a balmy Thursday evening and I’m sitting in the back yard of the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station with my fellow passengers from the Ghan Expedition railway journey. We had left Darwin the previous day on a four-day, three-night, 2979km journey through the centre of Australia. Along the way, there would be stops and off-train excursions at Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy. The Ghan — one of three great Australian Train Journeys run by Great Southern Rail — gets its name from the cameleers who came to Australia from Pakistan and Afghanistan in 1839 and were nicknamed “Ghans” by the locals. They played an important role in the construction of the Port Augusta-to-Alice Springs railroad that carried supplies to the early settlers in the outback. With the gradual introduction of rail, the camels and drivers lost their economic value and many of the cameleers released their charges into the wild, where they flourished. Today, there are thought to be around a million wild camels in the Outback. It wasn’t until 2001 that the first sod of soil was turned to extend the rail line from Alice Springs
On arrival at Coober Pedy we were taken straight to the Golf Club. There was not a blade of grass to be seen: even the greens were grassless. But if you are a golfer it’s worth the annual fee of $75 to join. That fee gives you affiliate membership and playing rights to St Andrews in Scotland. to Darwin, a distance of 1420km. Amazingly it took just 30 months to build, and since the Ghan’s first journey back in 2004, more than half a million travellers have embarked on this amazing rail experience through the red centre of Australia. The first thing that struck me on arrival at Berimah Railway station, Darwin, was the sheer size of the train. It’s pulled by two giant diesel electric locomotives and is 902m from nose to tail. There are 38 carriages offering the 248 passen-
Coast breakfast host Brian Kelly traverses Australia tralia from top to bottom aboard the Ghan, following the trail of pioneers gers a choice of platinum or gold service accommodation. Plus there are four restaurants serving the local cuisine along with wines and ales. Helpful staff directed us to our cabins then explained on-board dining options and the off-train excursions at each stopovers. Our first stop was at Katherine Gorge on Wednesday afternoon. Here a cruise took us down the Katherine River and into two of its monumental gorges with their towering sandstone cliffs while the skipper told us of the indigenous Jawoyn people who look after the area. Back on the train there was just enough time for a shower, change of clothes and a cold beer in the bar before heading to dinner — a three-course meal with local wines. It’s a great way to meet fellow passengers, who have come from all over the world. Returning to the cabin after a nightcap, the bed had been made up, and the gentle rocking motion of the train lulled me into a good night’s sleep. The next morning we arrived in the heart of Australia — Alice Springs. Excursions here included an Alice Springs Des-
ert Park guided walking tour, Simpsons Gap Discovery Walk, and an offroad mountain biking “adventure”, but I chose the optional upgrade of a fight to Uluru, which included a guided tour. Uluru is one of Australia’s most iconic symbols and to be able to picnic by this ancient monolith then tour the base and have some of its incredible features pointed out to us by the guides was well worth it. Flying back to Alice aboard our six-seater Cessna and looking out at the land below, I gained an impression of just how vast and ancient this continent is. We flew over the Finke River, one of the oldest rivers in the world. The highlight that evening was the Outback Pioneer Dinner at historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station. We had a great night in this dramatic setting, entertained by a local band. We were also treated to a talk on the night sky complete with laser lights to point out the distant stars and planets — and to top it off for the adventurous, camel rides were on offer. The evening meal featured an entree of chicken and leek pie, followed by steak cooked on the charcoal barbecue, pavlova and top Australian
cheeses — not bad in the middle of the Outback! It does get cold at night out there but the Great Southern Rail team think of everything and on every chair was a complimentary poncho — a nice souvenir of the trip. Our next stop, Coober Pedy, is an opal mining town, some 680km south of Alice Springs. It’s the largest producer of the gemstone in the world and has a population of around 3500, many of whom live underground due to the extreme temperatures, which can reach around 50C in summer. Opal-inspired outings were on offer, but I opted for a trip to the majestic Breakaways Reserve, which got its name from the colourful low hills that appear from a distance to have “broken away” from the higher ground. It looked like a lunar landscape. The view from the Breakaways lookout is spectacular and again Great Southern Rail sprang a lovely surprise. On arrival there was a table set up complete with white cloth and a selection of drinks . . . in the middle of a desert. Nice. On the drive back to Coober Pedy we stopped off at the Great Dog Fence. This unbroken wire fence is more than 5300km long and stretches
Darwin Northern Territory Alice Springs Uluru
Australia
Checklist THE GHAN
DETAILS The Darwin-to-Adelaide expedition operates between April and October. greatsouthern rail.com.au
through South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales as a barrier to prevent dingoes entering the sheep country of the south. On arrival at Coober Pedy we were taken straight to the Golf Club. There was not a blade of grass to be seen . . . even the greens were grassless. But if you are a golfer it’s worth the annual fee of $75 to join. That fee gives you affiliate membership and playing rights to St Andrews in Scotland. Not a bad deal. We had lunch inside the working Opal Quest Mine, a working mine and when lunch was over it was into the mine, complete with complimentary
Ghan hardhats for a guided tour by one of the town’s characters, George, who has been mining all his life. We finished off the day with a guided interactive tour of the museum which included a look at one of the original underground homes. The train sat waiting for us at a little siding in the middle of nowhere, called Manguri and there was another surprise in store. We were welcomed off the bus with a fresh handtowel to wipe the dust from our faces. An outside fire was burning and again we enjoyed drinks and canapes while chatting with fellow travellers in the empty landscape. It was quite an experience. Back on board we had one more night and an 850km leg to cover before arriving in Adelaide — the end of the line for us. We rolled in just on 11am on Saturday morning after an incredible trip. I can see why it’s rated as one of the world’s great train journeys. There is nothing quite like the magic and romance of a relaxing train holiday and this one stayed right on track. Coast is giving away an all-inclusive four day trip on The Ghan Expedition for two people. Enter online at thecoast.net.nz/win
GOING
GOING
GHAN
travel
28 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
More than 180 artists work to brighten the winter skies, writes Corazon Miller
I
t is quite possible to enjoy a view of Sydney’s skyline hopping from roof to roof, and what better time to do it than during the annual Vivid Festival. In May to June each year, the city buildings are transformed into canvases painted with an ever-moving array of lights. Ocean life darts across the sails of the Sydney Opera House; the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) has music to accompany the rotating sequence of watercolour, oil, or marker paintings that encompass its facade; and the yellow glow of Sydney Harbour Bridge puts a spotlight on the dancers projected on its posts. These were just some of the more than 90 largescale light installations and projections at the festival in 2017. More than 180 local and international artists worked to light up BEST VIEWS the winter skies in seven different precincts around Sydney. At night, the Supper Club During a week when at the Intercontinental has temperatures were barely views of the Sydney Opera in the mid-teens, the glowHouse and the MCA, while the ing displays still managed cool Zephyr Bar at the Hyatt to attract the masses. Regency overlooks Darling Before hitting a local Harbour. rooftop bar to see them from During the day Henry Deane above, I decided to get up at the Palisade Hotel offers a close with the lights. great view of the city and I recommend doing this early the Sydney Harbour in the evening — and in the week Bridge. — before the crowds get too heavy. I was able to walk, relatively unhindered, through the area, pausing to take pictures without having to worry too much about an unwanted head popping into shot. Several thousand steps later, I traipsed back to the Intercontinental hotel and headed to its roof — the exclusive Supper Club. There I sat in a cosy armchair and nursed a trio of specially-crafted Vivid cocktails while watching the lights dart around the harbour. Centre stage was the Sydney waterfront, with a light walk designed to take in the displays around Circular Quay, The Rocks and the city’s Harbour Bridge. The Supper Club was by no means the only place to check out the lights. To get a different view, there’s the Palisade’s rooftop bar, Henry Deane, which offers a picturesque view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Try the tender lamb cutlets with miso-infused sauce or the spiced cauliflower, tied off with a tasty cold sago pudding with pomegranate while you take in the sights. For a view of Darling Harbour’s water and lights, go to the Zephyr Bar on the roof of the Hyatt Regency and enjoy the show while sipping on one of the many cocktails on offer. During the day, before the Vivid lights Queensland switched on, there were plenty of places to explore. Australia At the top of the MCA, there is a large cafe, NSW with open and closed-roof options overlooking Sydney the harbour. Canberra Before enjoying a vegetarian tagine atop the Tasman Victoria Sea art gallery, I decided to take a tour of the art. The MCA is housing one part of The National: New Australian Art exhibition. Curated across three of the city galleries, the MCA, Carriageworks and the Art Gallery of New South Wales, it offers work from emerging, midcareer and established Australian artists. It is worth taking advantage of one of the regular free guided tours. Knowing the backstory GETTING THERE gives an added dimension to each piece of art, Flight Centre has Qantas that is not always visible by just looking at it. return airfares from $399, In the foyer of the MCA, painted on the wall when you add on an by the stairs, is a series of demon figures, framed accommodation deal. by gold leaf foliage. For the artist, Khadim Ali, flightcentre.co.nz who is a Hazara man from Afghanistan, born in Pakistan, these figures tell the story of what it’s DETAILS like to be a new migrant, feeling part of a place Vivid 2018, May 25-June 16. vividsydney.com but yet apart from it. For those not so keen on a formal gallery
Light-headed in
SYDNEY
Checklist SYDNEY
setting, the inner-west Sydney suburb of Newtown is an option. Arriving by train, it is easy to dismiss the area as just another run-down city suburb. But take the time to explore and you may be surprised to find, hidden among its warren of side-street shops, narrow alleys and parks, a thriving artistic community. You’ll find everything from a clothing shop linking designers with aspiring designers from refugee backgrounds, to the performing arts high school and the local group of artists sharing a studio and shop space. Melinda Vassallo, of Culture Scouts, introduced me to the beauty of Newtown. This tour was more than just a show-and-tell; Vassallo, who is a local, knows the streets like the back of her hand. She’s written a book about the street art that dots many of the suburb’s walls, fences and garages and knows many of the artists’ stories. After spending two hours with Vassallo, I came away feeling like I had just spent the afternoon hanging out with a friend. She told me that while street art remains illegal in many parts of Sydney, in Newtown the
Inner West Council has discovered that, instead of fighting the graffiti crews, it’s better to join them — or at least provide an outlet for street artists to develop their craft. Called the Perfect Match programme, it connects artists with property owners who want an outdoor mural painted — thus eliminating the chance of unwanted tagging. It’s like a living art gallery, constantly evolving with a weird juxtaposition between grungy tags, more formal developing pieces of artwork and grander polished pieces. Taking a closer look there were 3D sculptures: one “an abandoned shoe”, which on closer inspection was a sculpture fixed to the floor. One of the suburb’s centrepieces was a portrait of Martin Luther King, to his left, the globe, below, his iconic words; “I have a dream”; all underlain by an image of the Aboriginal flag. Painted by Andrew Aiken and Juilee Pryor it has, Vassallo said, in some ways become representative of the indigenous struggles for identity and a place in Australia today. That seems to be the beauty of this suburb, all forms of art are welcome and fit right into Newtown’s urban landscape.
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 29
Sydney Festival
January 6-28, 2018 In its 42nd year, this popular summer event turns the entire city into a cultural hub with hundreds of performances and events in theatre, dance, music, circus and art. Next year’s festival includes an underwater concert, as well as the first Australian show by New York theatre company the Wooster Group. There is also a broad range of free events on offer around the city. sydneyfestival.org.au
Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras
March 3, 2018 Three weeks of celebrations lead up to the main event on the first Saturday in March — the famous Mardi Gras parade, which may not be held on the actual Mardi Gras day, but still parties like it is. With a history dating back to the gay rights parades of 1978, the march retains a political flavour along with plenty of the outlandish antics that draw the crowds. mardigras.org.au
Sydney Beer Week
October 20-29, 2017 Keep the Oktoberfest party going at this event, held over the last week of October. The festival features more than 100 events scattered across the city, this year’s offering is shaping up to be the biggest yet — with local and international brewery showcases, scavenger hunts, walking tours, trivia nights and a ‘beergustation’ dinner. sydneybeerweek.com.au
City 2 Surf
Date TBA, 2018 This annual August fun run sees participants taking on a 14km course that starts in the CBD at Hyde Park and ends at the famous Bondi Beach. First run in 1971, with only 2000 entrants, the event now attracts more than 80,000 runners. Serious runners and first timers alike are invited to take it on, raising money for their chosen charity – it’s considered a bucket list event for many. city2surf.com.au
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travel
30 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Canada
»
Water world
Picture / Getty Images
A trip to Vancouver is not complete without a visit to its famous aquarium, writes P.K. Stowers
M
any people travel to British Columbia to get a taste of the area’s unique natural beauty and wildlife. But if you don’t have the time for whale watching, the next best thing is Vancouver Aquarium. Located in the spectacular Stanley Park, 10 minutes’ drive from downtown Vancouver, the aquarium first opened in 1956 and has grown in reputation and size over the past 60 years. It now occupies more than 9000sq m of space and contains some 300 species of fish, 56 species of amphibians and reptiles, and more than 50 mammals and birds. Its philosophy has changed over that time too. In 1964 the aquarium was the first to capture and train an orca — and the killer whale show was the centre’s primary attraction. However in 1996 a local bylaw was enacted that prevents the aquarium capturing wild whales and dolphins. Today there hasn’t been an orca on site since 2001 and the only other cetaceans it has are those that have been rescued, or injured and deemed unreleasable back into the wild. At present this includes a Pacific white-sided dolphin named Helen and a young false killer whale named Chester. It has also two adorable beluga whales and two Pacific harbour porpoises. There are also outdoor enclosures for the facility’s rescued sea otters, sea lions, penguins and fur seals. You can see all of these animals in regular “training sessions” that take place throughout the day. The aquarium’s focus these days is on research and education rather than “shows” — although the whales and dolphins still do entertaining jumps and tricks for fishy treats and to keep them active and alert. The aquarium is split into various zones: tropical, Amazon, frogs, British Columbian wildlife, Pacific Canada, jellyfish, and the Discover Rays exhibition. This pavilion is an especially interesting idea that seems to be immensely popular with children. It consists of a large, shallow oval pool in
Canada British Columbia
Calgary
Vancouver
Checklist VANCOUVER DETAILS To get to the aquarium from Downtown Vancouver take the number 19 bus on West Pender St to the magnificent Stanley Park. This ride takes less than 10 minutes and costs roughly $3. If you have the time, Stanley Park is huge and worth exploring, but if the aquarium is what you have come for, it is well signposted from the bus drop-off point. One adult ticket costs C$31, seniors and students are $22, children aged 4-12 cost $16 and under-3s are free. You should allow yourself at least a couple of hours to explore the aquarium properly. vanaqua.org ONLINE destinationbc.ca
FlyOver Canada If you have time after your aquarium visit, head back into downtown Vancouver and Canada Place — the massive harbourfront cruise liner terminal. At the far end of the terminal and up a couple of flights of stairs is FlyOver Canada — a unique flight simulation ride. Following a 10-minute video, guests are taken up to the main seating area. Here you are strapped into a padded chair before the floor moves away and you
which small rays circulate around the edge. Everyone is encouraged to put their hands into the pool and run their fingers over the slimy backs of harmless fish. This display is only open at certain times of the day however so check the session times when you arrive. Another highlight is the immense Pacific Canada tank, which includes 260,000 litres of salt water and a huge number of fish and invertebrates from the nearby Strait of Georgia. The tank’s glass sides mean you can experi-
are left facing an enormous curved cinema screen. What follows is an amazing 20-minute “flyover” of stunning Canadian scenery. You see everything from Vancouver at night, to icebergs, and vast prairies to tall snow-peaked mountains. At key points, mist, wind and even scents are aimed at you to produce a great virtual reality experience. Adults C$24, students $21, children $17. flyovercanada.com
ence life underwater without getting wet. Each of the large displays and tanks has accompanying information stands and videos to help educate visitors on the plight of the world’s waterdwelling animals and the importance of protecting their natural habitats. But there is still a lot to be gained from just losing yourself in watching fish swim around the gorgeously detailed enclosures. It’s remarkably calming — assuming a school party of under-10s isn’t standing right beside you.
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 31
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32 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
New Zealand
»
Dear Aunt
Emirates embraces heritage wine, writes Shandelle Battersby
D
avid Herd, the man who founded Marlborough’s commercial wine industry, finally arrived on New Zealand shores in 1854 after a long and horrific journey from Dundee, Scotland via England
and Australia. Herd, his wife Helen and their small daughter were on board one of the first double-decker immigrant ships, the Ticonderoga, which was struck by fever early on in its journey from Liverpool, England, to Port Phillip, Victoria. More than 170 of its nearly 800 passengers, including many children, did not survive; Herd and his family were among the lucky ones. More than 140 years later, premium wines grown on his former estate are being served to world travellers of this generation in the most comfortable environment possible at 40,000ft, on board Emirates planes flying to and from the Oceania region. This wine-making pioneer from the other side of the world identified Marlborough’s landscape, soil and climate early on as ideal for growing grapes, eventually eschewing the traditional route for immigrants of the time to farm cattle or sheep. After planting his first crop in 1873, Herd made wine — petit grain muscat — at the rural Blenheim site under the name Auntsfield Estate until he died in 1905. His son took over and kept the vineyard in operation until the 1930s. These days Auntsfield — and its historical legacy — are cared for by the Cowley family — acclaimed New Zealand cinematographer Graeme (Utu, Smash Palace), his wife Linda, and their sons Ben (the viticulturist) and Luc (the winemaker). The family bought the property in the late 90s and quickly made their own mark on Marlborough’s wine history, while always acknowledging and respecting the vineyard’s past. This extends to retaining its original name, and using a couple of drops of Herd’s final 1905
Graeme Cowley of Auntsfield Estate with a trove of treats.
vintage — gifted to the Cowleys by one of his descendants — in its exclusive Heritage series. The family also restored the original rammed earth cellar with its angular manuka log roof, and the “whare” — a charming, well-equipped but tiny hut which is one of the region’s oldest buildings. Herd lived here with his wife and five children while their house was built nearby, and all the Cowleys, at one time or another, have spent nights in the cosy one-room hut. The vineyard even has a patch on one of Herd’s original sites, growing exactly the same grapes and anchored by the same manuka posts because Graeme managed to track down the winemaker’s
flights or at the mostly by-appointment cellar door) and enjoy a relaxed Kiwi barbecue. We’re being hosted by winemaker Luc and his wife Kate (an American who worked a vintage in New Zealand years ago and never looked back) and the winery dogs, Samy and Tomo. Location is everything for Auntsfield, Luc explains. “Our wines reflect the unique site,” he says — the grapes are grown in clay soils in Marlborough’s southern valley. This means the sauvignon blanc in particular is different to the typical style of the region. “Sauvignon grown in the clay soils tends to be more citrus-focused and features quite ripe characters such as passionfruit and citrus peel. One thing we really try to focus on with this wine is the texture. Where sauvignon blanc is typically
mother clone further south in Rakaia, and took cuttings. The Cowleys are attempting to make a wine as close to the original as they can. The Emirates relationship with Auntsfield goes back about five years, and if you’re lucky you might find one of the winery’s vintages on board if you’re travelling in the pointy end of the plane. This year the airline will serve its single-vintage sauvignon blanc and pinot noir in Business Class, and the Heritage 2012 pinot noir in First Class. We’re visiting the Aunstfield property, 15 minutes from central Blenheim, to hear about its winemaking history, try some of their fabulous wines (most of which are difficult to find here unless you’re on board one of those Emirates
fresh and light, we really work on the palate weight.” Central Otago is recognised as New Zealand’s premier pinot noir-producing region, but Marlborough actually makes more of the variety, Luc says. For Auntsfield, the effect of the clay soil also makes its pinot noir quite unique. “When you get into the clay soils, you get darker, more savoury fruit and a lot more dense tannin structure,” he says. Emirates places a huge focus on its food and wine programme for its 100 million-plus passengers a year. On any given day they have 70 carefully selected wines flying around the network — experts will consider the company’s cellared wines twice a month and choose those
Luc Cowley at the whare door. Pictures / Shandelle Battersby
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 33
South Island Nelson
Picton
Cloudy Bay winery
Blenheim
Auntsfield winery
Checklist MARLBOROUGH DETAILS Auntsfield’s cellar door is open Mondays to Fridays for tastings by prior appointment only. auntsfield.co.nz Cloudy Bay’s cellar door is open daily, 10am-4pm. cloudybay.co.nz ONLINE emirates.com
drinking at their peak, Joost Heymeijer, senior vice president Emirates’ inflight catering, tells us. “It’s a real art, making sure you release a wine at the right time,” he says. “We look at wines that are ready, that drink well and that have good mouth-feel.” Part of the process depends on forging good relationships with its suppliers in the regions it flies to. With its wine list, Emirates works to assure winemakers that their product is being served in the right circumstances at the right temperature, by trained crew. “If your product doesn’t get presented right, then you’ve made a wine for nothing,” Heymeijer explains. “We believe in those relationships. The people that we buy off have the same ethics as us when it comes to quality.” The other premium wine carried by the airline comes from another Marlborough winery, Cloudy Bay, whose sauvignon blanc Emirates has served for the past 10 years. This year its 2016 sauvignon will be served in Business Class, alongside its 2014 Marlborough pinot noir and its 2013 Central Otago Te Wahi pinot noir, which Emirates has bought the entire vintage of. Winemaker Tim Heath and viticulturists Jim White and Matt Duggan treat us to a vineyard tour followed by a tasting, after a morning experiencing its new Sail Away experience on
board Voila, a 54ft sailing yacht in beautiful Queen Charlotte Sound. Sauvignon blanc is Cloudy Bay’s flagship wine, made from grapes grown on a 5km-long narrow strip that runs right through the centre of the Wairau Valley on alluvial soils with lots of round stones and greywacke rocks. Cloudy Bay’s Marlborough pinot noir, like Aunstfield’s, has a point of difference because it too comes from grapes grown in clay soil from its Mustang, Barracks and Delta vineyards, he says. The clay gives a richer structure, more tannins and a darker fruit flavour profile. A much more intense wine, the Te Wahi (which means “The Place” in Maori), from the winery’s Central Otago operation, is a completely different type of pinot noir, and the process to create it requires a “different mindset”, Heath says. The Emirates relationship works well for both parties. “Cloudy Bay is such an iconic wine that our passengers actually ask for it,” Heymeijer says. So next time you’re enjoying a glass of Marlborough’s famous sauvignon blanc, perhaps raise a glass to David Herd, a man whose name you might not have heard but whose winemaking legacy you almost certainly have sipped — and if you’re really lucky, maybe you’ve tried it at 40,000ft.
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travel
34 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
New Zealand
»
Two wheels
GOOD
Donna McIntyre takes to the iWays and byways of Hawke’s Bay for a festival of cycling that has something for everyone
T
he Summer Cycling Carnival brings me to Hawke’s Bay, welcoming me with a warm sunny day after a drizzly morning flight departure from Auckland. In keeping with the festival theme, transport for part of my stay is a stylish pair of Avanti wheels. So much of what is on offer is within walking distance in Napier, where I am based. That catchment of things to do and see grows larger when you bring or hire a bike, and making navigation easy is that expanse of water to help
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you find your bearings. I cycle to Ahuriri with its port, family-friendly beaches, and an eclectic mix of architecture of renovated woolstores, Art Deco buildings and historic cottages sharing streets with eating places, stores and galleries and businesses. Back at Marine Parade, I head south along the shoreline with Cape Kidnappers inching enticingly closer. The city’s architecture constantly demands my attention — the Art Deco it is famous for, villas standing sentry-like on the hill above Marine Parade and modern grand homes gracing Napier Hill and the port area.
Moving outside the city’s environs as part of a group ride from the Hawke’s Bay showgrounds at Hastings we cycle iWay pathways and roads following the Clive River to Whakatu, through Clive and along the coastline to Te Awanga for a lunchtime stop at Te Awanga Estate, before making the return trip. It’s wonderful to see cycling elites the likes of Julian Dean and Robbie McEwen mingling with the ordinary folks giving cycling a go, including parents and grandparents riding with primary and teenaged aged children. The Bay’s topography means social cyclists
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 35
Hamilton
New Zealand Taupo
Napier
Hawke’s Bay
Checklist NAPIER GETTING THERE Jetstar flies Auckland to Napier four times daily (three on Saturdays), oneway fares start from $49. jetstar.com ACCOMMODATION Scenic Hotel Te Pania has great views on the waterfront. scenichotel group.co.nz
Clockwise from left: Visitors and locals take part in the Hawke’s Bay summer cycling carnival; the Black Barn Vineyards Criterium; dining in Ahuriri Pictures / John Cowpland
can easily bike the urban and wine cycling trails or make their way along the waterfront. On the weekend I visit, the elite road cycling circuit includes sprint sections and hill climbs which are also accessible to weekend warrior riders wanting to give their legs a workout. I get caught up in the buzz of the action, joining
cow-bell ringing spectators on the streets, then taking a free spectator bus up Napier Hill to watch the hill challenge before returning to the waterfront for the race finish directly below my sixth-floor room at Scenic Te Pania. It’s a grandstand view. It’s enough to make me want to pump up the
DETAILS Napier and region has plenty of cycle trails (hawkesbaytrails.co.nz) and is a great place to hire a bike. Mine came from Napier City Bike Hire at 117 Marine Parade. napierbikehire.co.nz The programme for the 2108 Summer Cycling Carnival is now live. The festival runs January 5-10, and events include a Dress Your Bike competition for kids on January 10 and the iWay Family Fun Ride along Marine Paradey. summercycling carnival.co.nz For full immersion, head to Napier for the annual Art Deco Festival on February 14-18. hawkesbay.co.nz
tyres of my dust-gathering bike waiting at home. But the weekend is also about learning something of Napier’s history as well as enjoying the buzz of a national cycling event. I visit MTG Hawke's Bay (Museum Theatre Gallery), where Gaylene Preston’s interviews with survivors of the 1931 earthquake leaves a lasting impression. That film and another called The Day the Bay Changed at the Art Deco Trust seem even more pertinent now, with what the people of Christchurch and Kaikoura have been through. These Napier residents, who were filmed in the early 2000s, recount those life-changing
I get caught up in the buzz of the action, joining cow-bell ringing spectators on the streets, then taking a free spectator bus up Napier Hill to watch the hill challenge. events and how the community spirit rallied to cope with the heartbreak and to rebuild the city including the many Art Deco buildings that now define Napier. Later, during a walk led by an Art Deco Trust member, I learn to look up more often on my rides and walks to appreciate the Art Deco on the walls and ceilings around the city. It is a great city visit, whether you lean towards exercise, culture or vineyards. The ease of getting around the city and the countryside means you can tailor your stay to be as relaxing or as exhilarating as you want.
Stewart Island and the Catlins Rail Tour
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P U K E K O H E T R AV E L
travel
36 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
SHOP your
heart out If shopping holidays are your dream come true, check out these handy tips from Leila George
1
Baggage allowances This is something most of us don’t think about too much until it’s time to hit the road back to the airport and you realise you can’t do up your suitcase unless you have four people sitting on it, and once it’s zipped, you need a forklift to get it into the cab. If you’re prone to extreme shopping (a friend of mine bought nine pairs of shoes in the first three days of a month-long trip last year), investigate baggage allowances before you go. Middle Eastern airlines Qatar, Emirates and Etihad have generous allowances on some routes and fares, but there are lots of conditions. For Kiwis and Aussies, Hawaiian Airlines offers two bags of up to 32kg each per person travelling to Hawaii/North America. And if you’re travelling in the US in November, make sure you plan for a day of shopping madness the day after Thanksgiving (the fourth Thursday of the month) when Black Friday happens — the start of the Christmas shopping season when major retailers have massive sales.
2
Outlet malls American outlet malls are more like outlet towns, and a must for any bargain hunter. The only one on Oahu is Waikele Premium Outlets, not far from Honolulu. Here you’ll happily fill up one of those suitcases with the likes of Coach,
Kate Spade, Michael Kors, Barneys, Polo Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Visit premiumoutlets.com/outlet/waikele There are also a couple of Nordstrom Rack outlets in Honolulu, one at Ward Village and one at Waikiki. Visit nordstromrack.com
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 37
Left: The Ladies Market, Kowloon; below, Chatuchak Market, Bangkok. Pictures / Mark Lehmkuhler; Jirka Matousek; Getty Images
On the mainland, you’ll find the Citadel Outlets not far from Los Angeles Airport. Karmel Shuttle offers packages that will transport you from any hotel in Anaheim, the LA area or the airport and take you to the enormous outlet complex, which houses almost any store you can think of, from Disney to DKNY. You can store your luggage in the VIP Lounge while you shop, then repack before catching your flight. Visit karmel.com and citadeloutlets.com
3
Street markets It can be a lot of fun visiting the big street markets in Asia and shopping around for the perfect pair of shoes or a new handbag — once you get used to the bartering, that is. Some advice here: If you like something a lot, buy it, because unless you’re really paying attention, you’ll find it hard to locate it the stall or even the street again. Also, remember bartering can get out of hand — likely, you’re arguing over what amounts to a latte or glass of wine back home, so decide how much something is actually worth and try to pay that, rather than squabbling over a few dollars. Two of the markets not to miss are Bangkok’s Chatuchak Weekend Market, which is visited by more than 200,000 locals and tourists each day and sprawls across several streets; and Hong Kong’s Ladies Market in Kowloon, which is a 1km stretch of stalls selling clothing, accessories, souvenirs and more. Another spot to shop in Bangkok — and where it’s okay to barter — is the famous MBK Center, an enormous mall with more than 2000 stores over eight floors selling clothes, accessories, handbags, luggage, furniture, electronics and more. Fashion is found on MBK’s lower floors, while electronics are mostly on the third and fourth.
4
How to access your cash Even the money experts have trouble with this
Changi Airport. Picture / Jirka Matousek
one. Herald personal finance columnist Diana Clement says she sometimes goes around in circles about this, and says whichever way you go there are “gotchas”. “I have been thinking of getting an ANZ card for travel because you no longer pay ATM fees in Australia and some other Asia/Pacific countries,” she says. ASB and BNZ, however, charge $7.50 per ATM withdrawal, Westpac $3 and Kiwibank $6. This is on top of currency conversion fees. “On both of my most recent trips overseas I got cash from small exchange houses in Auckland. There are some in central Auckland and south Auckland that have better rates than the banks and don’t charge a conversion fee. I did notice when I was doing my conversion that the No 1 Currency and Western Union shops were quite reasonable. “If you pre-book through places like Travelex the prices are okay. But if you try to change money at the airport it is often expensive. So, if you’re getting cash, you’re probably best off with little exchange houses in Queen St and suburban centres than the banks or the airport.” The best option, she advises, is to change cash with your friends if they have some. “That way you both get the best rate.” She warns to be wary of loaded-for-travel or OneSmart-style cards as they can be expensive, and says that in a few years she might look at using Bitcoins for international exchange when she travels. A handy tip to note is that when paying by card, if you’re asked if you want to pay in local currency or your home currency, always go for the local currency. Otherwise, you’ll pay an extra conversion fee, which might be only a few per cent, but which adds up.
5
Shop sustainably In these times of fast fashion, it’s easy to get swept up in the frenzy of bartering in the Asian street markets and spending up a storm at cheap department stores in bigger economies. This is
one place that it’s easy to step back and think about where your money is actually going. If souvenirs or clothing are cheap, are they authentic or mass produced in a factory in a different country? Isn’t it better to shop thoughtfully and ethically, taking home something well-crafted where the money has gone back to the actual makers and local economy? The same could apply to food as well — perhaps shop at farmers’ or city markets, rather than supermarkets if you have the option. Also consider supporting fair trade, organic and eco-friendly goods and services, to reduce your carbon footprint where you are able. Here’s a handy website for finding ethical fashion: baptistworldaid.org.au
Isn’t it better to shop thoughtfully and ethically, taking home something well-crafted where the money has gone back to the actual makers?
6
Be savvy at duty free Did you know it’s better value if you buy your duty free this side of the Tasman? That many countries will give you some of your tax on purchases back at the airport if you’ve spend over a certain amount? And that at Singapore’s Changi Airport passengers in transit travelling on Singapore Airlines, SilkAir and Air New Zealand are eligible for a Changi Dollar Voucher (CDV), valued from S$20 ($20.50) for shopping and refreshments. It can literally pay to keep an eye out for nifty deals at airports across the world. TIP: In the US, states are responsible for deciding their own sales tax rates. This ranges from zero (Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire and Oregon) to 7.25 per cent (California). On top of that, counties and cities can add even more. If you’re planning on big ticket items, choose your state wisely.
travel
38 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
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United States
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 39
»
Clockwise from main: Paul Revere’s statue outside the Old North Church in Boston; the ‘Statue of Three Lies’; historic Elfreth’s Alley; following in Rocky’s footsteps at the Philadelphia Art Museum. Pictures / 123RF; Shandelle Battersby
Statue of limitations One of the most photographed statues in the US is a big fat liar. The figure of John Harvard in the famous Boston university’s Harvard Yard is known as the Statue of Three Lies because of the mistruths it portrays.The tribute to Harvard has the wrong date engraved on it (it was founded in 1636, not 1638), it claims incorrectly he was the university’s founder (he was a generous donor, but not a founder), and it wasn’t actually modelled on him: Harvard died at age 30 from tuberculosis and there was no existing record of his likeness, so a model, Sherman Hoar, was used instead when the statue was made in 1884. One of the statue’s feet has been rubbed for luck by students so many times it gleams gold, though if you want to give it a try, warns our guide, 19-year-old sophomore Elizabeth Quinonez, you might want to wash your hands afterwards. Most of us decided to give it a miss. We were visiting Harvard as part of an Insight Vacations’ optional extra. Quinonez showed us around a tiny part of the university as she talked about its culture and history and some famous Harvardians such as John F. Kennedy, John Adams, Mark Zuckerberg, Matt Damon and Bill Gates. We had a crack at student life, letting rip with a primal scream in front of old John. Ours was the censored version: the annual event takes place in winter at midnight during finals week as a stress release, and involves 1000 students streaking naked while 5000 look on.
The streets of
PHILLY
Shandelle Battersby walks in the footsteps of the Founding Fathers
O
ne of the most famous events of the American Revolution would never get past the fact checkers keeping an eye on US politics in today’s times. Thanks to a poem, Paul Revere’s Ride, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow written some 80 years after the fact, Sons of Liberty member Paul Revere’s part in the ignition of the revolution in April 1775 was forever etched in American folklore — even though it didn’t happen quite as the poet described it. Revere was instrumental in developing the lantern-warning system at the Old North Church (1723), the oldest in Boston, put in place to signal when the English troops were on their way north of the river towards where the colonial militia were hiding out. If one lantern appeared, it was by land; if two were shone, it was by water. There’s a dashing statue of Revere on horseback out the front and inside you’ll find original box pews — separate compartments, organised by social hierachy and built with high walls to keep in warmth, which owners would pimp out with velvet, furniture and knick-knacks, and make comfortable with blankets and pillows. On bitter winter days, patrons would bring along hot rocks and coals as foot warmers. Visitors to Boston and Philadelphia spend a lot of time tracing the footsteps of the Founding Fathers of the United States, and you can eat and drink in their footsteps too. At Philly’s City Tavern, est. 1773, you can order an ale brewed from the recipe used by Thomas Jefferson, third president of the US, or a rich, dark porter called General Washington’s Tavern Porter, made from a recipe on file in the Rare Manuscripts Room at the New York Public Library. Both are fine drops. The pub played an important part during the
American Revolution as a key meeting place for some of the major players, and was also the site of the first Fourth of July Independence Day celebrations in 1777. We dined there during Insight Vacations’ Best of Eastern Canada and USA tour from Toronto to New York City. The pub is a 1970s replica of the three-storey original — which was destroyed by fire and demolished in 1854. These days the tavern has seven period dining rooms, dimly lit by candlelight, and furnished in the style of the day.
USA
New York
Pennsylvania
Pittsburgh
Philadelphia
W. Virginia
NJ
Virginia
Checklist
was fascinating, especially when brought to life by tour director Todd Geist, and local experts. This is not just for tourists, Geist tells us, visiting the sites is a pilgrimage for Americans. Boston makes it especially easy with a distinctive 4km red line of bricks in the pavement leading to 16 significant sites, including the Boston Massacre site, churches, museums, burial grounds, meeting houses, and even a ship — the still-commissioned USS Constitution, nicknamed “Old Ironsides” during the War of 1812 after cannonballs fired at her appeared to bounce off her hull. We’d made our way down to Philadelphia
PHILADELPHIA
Staff dressed in colonial garb serve food from authentic 18th-century recipes. Vegetarians, note: you can even order fried tofu — in a letter dated 1770, Benjamin Franklin included instructions on how to make it. Other food from the era: corn chowder (corn was a staple of the colonial diet), chicken pot pies (only for special occasions as hens were mostly kept alive for their eggs), and sweet potato “biscuits” — kind of like a scone — reportedly one of Jefferson’s favourites. Dinner was an apt way to top off two days of total immersion in the past as we visited first Boston, Massachussets, then Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, learning about the parts each played in the revolution. Even for the non-history nerds among us, visiting key sites and landmarks
DETAILS Insight Vacations’ 16-day ‘Best of Eastern Canada and USA’ holiday from Toronto to New York takes in cosmopolitan cities and natural wonders. Priced from $7695 pp, twin share with early payment savings of 10 per cent. Departure dates available from May to October 2018. insightvacations.com
ticking off five states in about five hours (Massachusetts, Conneticut, New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania), then conquering the Rocky steps in front of the Philadelphia Art Museum, before heading off for dinner at the City Tavern. First came a walking tour of the old town with local expert Jen Hensell, taking in the house once lived in by the seamstress of the original US flag, Betsy Ross; charming Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest residential street in US established in 1702; the city’s first church (built in 1695); and the site of Benjamin Franklin’s house. The next day we joined 12,000 other tourists for a peek at the city’s famous Liberty Bell, before jumping back on the coach and heading south for Washington DC, to see how the fruits of all that tumultuous history would be realised.
travel
40 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Asia
»
Art &
Architecture On Naoshima island, Tadao Ando’s buildings are as striking as the installations within, writes Donna Bryson
B
ecause I had just emerged from the gloom of a tree-lined approach, the white stones that paved the courtyard seemed impossibly bright. Then, my eyes caught something unexpected: a flight of chunky glass steps, a very modern touch on a renovated shrine. Encountering surprising and beautiful juxtapositions defined my visit to Japan’s Naoshima, a small island that Pritzker Prizewinning architect Tadao Ando has helped transform into a destination for lovers of contemporary art and design. My trip to Naoshima was something of an Ando pilgrimage. I’d admired the work of the Japanese-born, internationally known Ando at the Art Institute of Chicago, where he created a powerfully contemplative gallery for Japanese screens using simple pillars and lines of light and shadow. My daughter came up with the phrase “art-itecture” during our visit to Naoshima because we focused so much of our attention on Ando’s buildings, and less on the artworks they house. For a 1989 festival, Ando designed a campground where the public could contemplate art and Naoshima’s natural beauty. In 1992, an Ando-designed hotel-and-art complex opened, Benesse House. It’s a dream come true for those of us who have always wanted to spend the night in a museum. I got a thrill passing one of Hiroshi Sugimoto’s extraordinary photographs of theatres on my way to breakfast on the two mornings I spent at Benesse House. The hotel complex, which includes a seaside sculpture park, is home to work by, among others, Jennifer Bartlett, Jonathan Borofsky, David Hockney, Bruce Nauman, Niki de Saint Phalle, Frank Stella and Andy Warhol. A giant spotted pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama that sits on a pier jutting into the Seto Inland Sea has become a mascot for the enterprise. Anyone can view the art, but hotel guests get after-hours access. Over the next decades, Ando designed several
in 2013. The architect set a concrete box inside a century-old house in Naoshima’s Honmura area. The house literally and figuratively embraces exhibitions on Ando’s work, which is rooted in the simplicity of traditional design and casts an admiring glance at ancient craftsmanship. The museum is a short bus or bike ride from Benesse House. The Honmura neighbourhood is home to another Benesse initiative, the Art House Project, launched in 1998. Artists have made galleries and installations out of abandoned homes, temples, a dentist’s office and a hangout for players of the board game Go. Benesse House is named for Japan’s Benesse, whose holdings include Berlitz, the language education company. Benesse founder Tetsuhiko Fukutake bought land on Naoshima as a base to explore ideas about nurturing children, and worked with locals on projects linking economic and cultural development. He died in 1985 but his son, Soichiro, a collector of contemporary art, took his father’s vision further, saying that the
more buildings for Naoshima, including additional suites of rooms for Benesse House, with the most exclusive connected to the main galleries by monorail. Perhaps the most stunning of Ando’s structures is the Chichu Art Museum, which opened in 2004. Chichu means underground, and the galleries are buried into a hillside so they become part of the island’s dramatic landscape. Yet the spaces are filled with natural light. A Claude Monet painting of water lilies hangs in a room over a floor of white stone cubes that reminded me of the bright stones in the shrine courtyard elsewhere on the island. Chichu also houses installations by James Turrell and Walter De Maria. In another Ando museum on Naoshima, dark hallways lead like journeys to the revelations contained in the precise paintings and bold stone and steel sculptures of Lee Ufan, who was born in Korea and established himself as a leading figure in Japanese contemporary art. Ando got a museum of his own on Naoshima
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 41
Russia
Sea of Japan
Hokkaido
Ja p a n Tokyo
Naoshima Island
island is “a place where art is not experienced by studying set attitudes but appreciated on your own terms”. Naoshima is craggily scenic, and so densely forested that the trees and ferns compete with sand for footholds along the shore. Before it became an arts destination, its economy centred on salt, fishing and manufacturing. The glass steps that caught my eye are part of an Art House Project renovation of an Edo period shrine by Sugimoto. The steps link the hilltop shrine to an underground stone chamber. The glass stairs echoed timber risers I occasionally saw dug into the surrounding hills for pedestrians. More than occasionally, I spotted humble roadside Shinto shrines at which the faithful had left flowers and other offerings. Seeing them, it was easy to imagine the island and its art-itecture teeming with spirits. — AP
Checklist JAPAN GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies daily from Auckland to Narita and seasonal services to Haneda, Tokyo, with oneway Economy Class fares from $789. airnz.co.nz DETAILS For information on staying at the Benesse Art Site on Naoshima Island, go to benesse-artsite.jp.
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45 night Fly, Stay & Cruise Package based on twin share per person
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11,899
13,599
OnBoard Inclusions: • Welcome Aboard bottle of bubbles on each cruise • Dining: Breakfast, lunch & dinner in the main restaurant • 24 hour room service • Traditional afternoon tea, served each day in the Queens Room • Breakfast, lunch, dinner & snacks, with tea, coffee, water and fruit juice, available 24 hours a day at the buffet restaurant Not Included: • Daily on board gratuities: Allow approx US$513 per person total, or US$589 per person for Suites • Items of a personal nature • Optional Shore Excursions • Any drinks other than mentioned above • Travel Insurance • Any visas if required
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42 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Pacific Islands
»
Divine by design Lindy Laird finds herself floating with happiness — or maybe that’s the ‘ava
S
ometimes you find yourself in a place that simply takes your breath away. And not because of the steamy, 32C heat. Samoa is beautiful, so magical a non-believer can almost imagine a higher divinity — with a design flair — painting colour, music, nourishment, lushness and laughter on to every surface. Of course, for the deeply religious Samoans who are extremely proud that their constitution describes the island nation as a Christian country, there is no doubt the hand of that greater power created their paradise. Houses of worship of every denomination imaginable, even Bahai, sit every few hundred metres along the road in Apia and the small villages you pass on the main route, a ribbon set between the flat shelf of coast and the lush land rising steeply to the jungle and often mist shrouded mountains of the interior. Although I can hardly wait to get to the bigger, more remote, sparsely populated island of Savai’i, I drink in the friendly atmosphere of Apia. It's an ordinary Pacific island kind of town, not lovely but with its own charm. I’ve certainly arrived at the right time. ‘‘Beautiful Samoa’’ is the apt slogan of the Teuila Festival (named for Samoa’s national
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Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 43
‘Ava (kava) ceremony. at Lalomanu. Picture / Supplied
flower), a week long party of concerts, pageants, games and cultural events. Also in Apia during this year’s festival is the Pacific Island Leaders’ Forum, with hundreds of (mainly) men in colourful, matching shirts filling hotel foyers, watching festival events, huddled in serious talks at restaurants, or being driven away in flash cars with police motorcades. Apia is overflowing, and handling it with great grace. The Teuila Festival was first staged in 1991 and is the much-loved child of the Samoan Tourism Authority, the little nation’s biggest cheerleader, which has in more recent years made the prestigious, ambassador-focused Miss Samoa contest a key element of the event. At Sunday night’s concert, the first of nightly shows held on the main stage in front of the large lawn outside the Samoan Government centre, I hear the heavenly sounds of a dozen different church choirs performing one after the other. Some comprised 200 people, none less than 60. My favourite is the Apia Central State Choir’s rendition of the battle song-come-hymn, Mine Eyes Have Seen the Glory. Quite astonishing! On other nights, I see traditional Siva Samoa and contemporary dance demonstrations, Ailao Afi or Fire Knife dancing, a string band contest which throws together a wonderful mix of traditional Samoan and golden oldie guitar pop classics, a hip-hop-reggae-roots concert that has the happy, peaceable crowd raging, and the parade of beauties in the McDonald’s Miss Samoa Pageant. Each day there are games, parades, school events and street markets, quite apart from the regular daily Apia flea, food and fish markets. There’s not a day during my week in Samoa I don’t receive and return a hundred greetings and smiles. Nor a day I don’t feel I’m floating in an alluring space between the serene and the spectacular, gentle and wild, between Heaven and Earth. In reality, most days I do literally float — in
Savai’i
Samoa Apia Upolu
South Pacific Ocean
Checklist SAMOA GETTING THERE Samoa Airways starts flying between Auckland and Apia in November. One-way Economy Class fares start from $234. samoaairways.com DETAILS For information on a holiday in Samoa, go to samoa.travel.
crystal clear water in turquoise lagoons, rock pools, below waterfalls, caves and pools fed by underground springs or fed through lava tubes linked to the sea. Piula Cave Pool is a 30-minute drive out of Apia. The cool, soft, clear water comes from an underground spring only metres from the coast. Half the pool is in a deep cave under a bluff. You look out through overhanging plants to the “outdoor” half of the pool and the sea, just across a tidy lawn. As at most scenic spots, because they’re all on private land, visitors pay a small fee to get in. The Piula Cave Pool is owned by a historic Methodist Chapel and Theological College. Across rainforest-clad mountains lies the more touristy, picturesque south. You hit this coast near palms-white-sand-turquoise-water Lalomanu Beach, which Lonely Planet calls one of the world’s 10 most beautiful. A little further west is To Sua, a deeply sunken bowl of crystal clear salt water in park-like grounds. Climb many metres down a wooden ladder to get into the big pool. It feels surreal, descending — slowly, because managing that descent is tricky — into sea water, swimming through a high-roofed tube where the water underneath you is at times more than two metres deep, emerging in another basin at a slightly higher level — a subterranean, Jurassic garden of flowers, ferns and climbers, with the blue, blue sky far above. I stay this night at the luxurious, gorgeous Saletoga Sands Resort, where I’ll meet new friends, drink kava (I do think it relaxed my aching legs after tackling that ladder, but then the wine might have helped, and, um the antiinflammatory, too), take a lazy walk along a little beach lit by a bright moon, and pinch myself at having spent another night in Beautiful Samoa. Tomorrow my guide John Lemoa, a Samoa Tourism marketing manager, will drive us to the ferry for the hour long crossing to Savai’i. But today, and every day, we’re on “island time”.
I hear the heavenly sounds of a dozen different church choirs performing one after the other.
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44 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
He Tangata:
Miles Anderson
Swimming with a whale shark; Miles Anderson (below). Pictures / Getty Images; Supplied
Elisabeth Easther talks to the proprietor of Tophouse Historic Inn, St Arnaud, Nelson
I
’m from Rangitikei originally, born in 1954, so my memories of the ’50s are a dim vision from the cot. I remember in the ’60s, living in the countryside and doing things like eeling, climbing trees and bird nesting. We fed the chooks, mowed the lawns, helped in the garden and milked the cow. We weren’t rich so we made our own fun. For holidays, Mum’s parents had a farm in Sanson so we’d go there, or to Dad’s mother in Bulls where she’d spoil us rotten. Or we’d visit the wild west coast beaches, all grey black sand, driftwood at the mouths of rivers. These were mainly day trips, I don’t remember going away with Mum and Dad for extended periods. Twenty-odd years ago I spent some time in China for work and that was intriguing. In the countryside you’d see people in the fields growing veges using hoes and shovels, then in smoggy cities they’re building 130-storey high-rises and the scaffolding is bamboo all the way up. I was there for work, consulting to the Chinese Government, and they are amazing hosts. Breakfast is 20 courses, lunch is at least 30 and dinner 40, such beautiful food and these little dishes kept coming and coming. I certainly put on weight there. Over the past 10 years we’ve really got into diving and we’ve been to most of the islands. Tonga, Samoa, Fiji, Rarotonga, Great Barrier Reef. The underwater world is amazing, you see something different every time you go down. In Tonga, I got within a couple of metres of a humpback
there’s no light pollution, a lot of people say our stars are better than they are down south.
whale and its eye was a huge ball, about the size of a basketball. But I wasn’t scared, they’re quite gentle. My wife Helen came across a leopard shark once. They’re quite big, about three metres long, and Helen loves taking underwater photos. She focuses on this giant and it starts swimming towards her. She back paddled and it kept following her. When we got to the top and told the guide, he said, “that’s old George, I wondered where he’d got to”. Apparently he was as friendly as a kitten but we didn’t know that. Probably the best trip Helen and I did, we landed in Perth and went 1200km up the coast to Exmouth. At Monkey Mia, we had dolphins swimming through our legs, we went out and saw dugongs and you can swim with whale sharks. They’re about 12 metres long and they swim towards you with their huge mouths open, so you have to swim to one side or the other to avoid the mouth. If you got in their road I don’t know what would happen, even if they do only eat plankton.
I’ve always liked people, I enjoy meeting them and talking to them. So it can be annoying when you do travel and people are all yammering away on their phones.
We bought Tophouse 15 months ago because we wanted to enjoy nature. We’re just 7km from Lake Rotoiti and St Arnaud, surrounded by mountains and a beautiful old beech forest. And because
I’ve always liked people, I enjoy meeting them and talking to them. So it can be annoying when you do travel and people are all yammering away on their phones and not taking the opportunities that come along. People are losing face-toface conversations and relationships which I think are the spice of life. Tophouse oozes history. In 1894, there was a famous murder, a guy called Bateman fancied the governess who was looking after the kids here. When her employers went away, Bateman’s mate stirred him up and said another chap was going to have his wicked way with Miss Wylie, so Bateman borrows a shotgun from the postmaster and blows his rival away, hiding him behind a pile of logs. Then he thinks, the postmaster will know it was me, so he shoots him too. Then Bateman shot himself. So no one got to have their wicked way with Miss Wylie. Tophouse was built in 1887 when the only people coming through were surveyors, gold miners and early settlers. Drovers with up to 12,000 sheep would stay here en route to Hanmer and Culverden, selling them to the people developing Canterbury. The rooms then had bunks three high, the bottom was a shilling, the middle one sixpence, the top one thruppence. It’s a lot more comfortable now. tophouse.kiwi
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 45
Opinion
»
Taxing questions for tourism
Hidden charges are catching on all over the world, writes Ruwani Perera
W
hatever lingo you use, it all adds up to the same thing — travellers are getting stung by taxes known by other names. Here at home, politicians are talking of taxes on tourists for our Great Walks and bed taxes and tourism levies, all extra burdens on overseas travellers. So, I guess it’s only fair when Kiwis travel abroad to expect the same treatment. But is it comparing apples with apples? We’re expecting visitors to pay a little more for enjoying the beauty and wonder of our landscape and contributing towards protecting our native wildlife, but annoying surcharges have popped up on my radar lately for things I believe travellers shouldn’t have to pay extra for. On a recent stay in Honolulu, I came across a “Daily Resort Fee” charged per room, per night. It added up to about $35 a day. When I inquired what this entailed, I was given a list of about 15 “benefits”. This included oneday rental of a GoPro camera, a 15-minute surfing lesson, a tote beach bag and lei-making and hula classes. These resort charges were billed as generous amenities, but who are they trying to fool? Our resort in Mexico called its surcharge a “Leisure Tax” and tried on the same array of inducements, such as tequila tasting and yoga at dawn. I’m not sure that it’s a great idea to practise your downward-facing dog at sunrise after a night of tequila sampling. They also tried to tell us that two bottles of water a day and use of the hotel gym were included in this package. Some things, I believe, should be part of the room charge — water, Wi-Fi and workouts being the most important. These shouldn’t be classed as “benefits” but included as part of any
Check what your room rate includes at the time of your booking. Picture / Getty Images
holidaymaker’s necessities — like a hairdryer or a plug to charge your phone. I argued the point at this resort — I had booked through a travel website and it clearly stated these extras were covered in the room rental, so the hotel had no choice but to waive these additional charges. My best advice is to look out for what the room rate includes at the time of your booking. Compare that experience to accommodation in Asia, which almost certainly comes with buffet breakfasts, use of Kindles and iPads during your stay and transfers to and from the airport allinclusive of your daily room rate. Unlimited Wi-Fi, an evening turn-down service and all-you-can-drink water bottles are par for the course. Recent trips to developing countries such as Vietnam and Sri Lanka highlight the generosity of hoteliers in this region compared with their Western counterparts — especially with fast broadband internet connection throughout the entire resort, considered to be part of the furniture and fittings. A bit of digging around reveals hidden taxes are catching on worldwide. City taxes have sprouted up across Europe — some cities will hit you up on a per person, per night basis, while others will sting you at a flat rate (i.e. 5 per cent of your hotel room bill). It’s an added cost that sometimes won’t reveal itself until checkout. The extra charges don’t always go directly to the hotel’s bank balance, some payments go towards propping up the local tourism industry. A bit like where New Zealand is headed. So Auckland Council’s proposed hotel taxes are in step with this global trend to add to holidaymakers’ ever-increasing costs. I want to know why the stinginess? These are four- to five-star hotels where you are paying a premium for the real estate and slick service — surely a bit of hospitality should be extended to travellers during their stay? As time goes on, I’m certain there’ll be new ways of burdening the traveller with added costs — the language might change, but the bottom line is crystal clear: you’ll be forking out a bit more for your overseas holiday.
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46 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Room Check
Omnibus
Eli Orzessek checks into Book and Bed, in Tokyo Getting there: It’s a very short walk from Ikebukuro Station, which is on the Yamanote Line — easy to get to from pretty much everywhere. The hostel is on the seventh floor of the Lumiere building — keep an eye out for the sign. In this unique hostel, beds are slotted in among bookshelves. There are loads of books to read. Check-in experience: I arrived early to drop off my bag. Staff were helpful, in a cool, laid-back sort of way. I was shown a video on an tablet to explain how everything worked. Room: I went for a bookshelf bed, because I had to. The shelves run down the length of the building with ladders and cubbyholes to crawl into. Mine was close to the bathroom; the communal lounge area was down the other end of the room. Price: I paid around $45 for my one night stay. What’s so good about this place? It’s all about the novelty — I’d read about this place and had to stay there for at least one night. Though most of the books are in Japanese, there’s a decent selection of English titles. And the bad? The beds aren’t very comfortable and there is music playing until around midnight. What’s in the neighbourhood? It’s not the most exciting neighbourhood of Tokyo, but there’s a big arcade with lots of claw machines — it’s quite entertaining to watch people attempting to win toys. I also ate at a great restaurant that specialised in giant-sized gyoza dumplings. Toiletries: For 540 yen (about $8) you can purchase a mini tote bag which contains shampoo, conditioner, body soap, a toothbrush and a rental towel. The products smelled like geranium. Food and drink: There’s a bar service offering a variety of interesting Japanese and international beers. The bed: A very thin mattress and pillow on a wooden base — as you can imagine, it’s not very comfortable and you have to make it up yourself. But that’s more incentive to stay up reading all night. I was up until 2am reading Haruki Murakami’s first novel — cliche, I know.
Bathroom: Shared bathroom, with shower cubicles. The usual high-tech Japanese toilets you come to expect. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, quite reliable. Noise: Being near the bathroom I was kept awake by people using the toilets during the night. There was also a bit of snoring, but I expect I probably contributed to that myself once I drifted off. Contact: bookandbedtokyo.com/en. Value for money: It’s cheap and worth a one-night stay for the novelty — however, you could get a lot more for not much more at another capsule hotel. Perfect for: Solo travellers, hipsters and bookworms.
Shandelle Battersby checks into the Outrigger Aina Nalu Lahaina, in Maui, Hawaii Location: On the western side of Maui, 40 minutes from Kahului Airport, or even better, 15 minutes from Kapalua Airport. Flights to the latter have just resumed after a 24-year hiatus due to the lack of planes small enough to land on its short runway. Check-in experience: The lobby of this newly refurbished resort is one of its nicest parts — open, airy and tropical. This is also where you’ll find an activities desk. Room: Upstairs (note there are no lifts) in a onebedroom condo with a fully equipped kitchen with a dishwasher, microwave and oven. There was also air-conditioning, ceiling fans and a washer/dryer, which came in handy after a week on the road. The blocks all look very similar and
interconnect in a slightly confusing way — I got lost a couple of times. The design is “contemporary Hawaiian plantation”. A room with a view? No views from this room — in fact I’m not sure I even raised the blinds. Price: $240 per night for a minimum two-night stay. Parking is $24 per day and there’s no resort fee, but there is a departure cleaning fee of $150-$270 per stay. What's so good about this place? It’s within walking distance of the bustling township of Lahaina and its pretty harbour — the first capital of Hawaii back in the whaling days of the 1800s. The best part: The main pool area, surrounded by lush, tropical gardens and featuring plenty of space to sun yourself.
Dionne Christian checks into Ca’Zanardi, Venice Location: In the Cannaregio neighbourhood, far from the madding crowds in Venice’s tourist hot-spots and a two-minute walk from Fondamente Nove, a stop for Alilaguna and ACTV water buses and the gateway to the islands of the Northern Lagoon. It’s about a 15-minute walk to San Marco Square. Getting there: I caught the Alilaguna from Marco Polo Airport, a 25-minute journey across the Northern Lagoon then walked the two-minutes past the historic Gesuiti Church and over one bridge to Ca’Zanardi. Given the likelihood of getting lost in Venice’s tangled network of alleyways and lanes, it was accessible and surprisingly easy to find.
ceremony off Puu Kekaa (Black Rock) every evening at sunset. Haleakala National Park is 90 minutes away. Toiletries: Outrigger’s own brand — Hawaii Vacation Condos by Outrigger. If you’re staying for a while, take your own. Food and drink: The idea is to self-cater at these condos, and as well as your own kitchen, guests have access to barbecues in the main pool area. The bed: A comfy super king. Bathroom: I liked the large walk-in shower, clad with natural stone. Noise: Only a little from other guests yahooing and carrying-on, but it was a Friday night. What’s in the neighbourhood? You’re only Facilities:There are two pools and a spa pool, about 40 minutes from Maalaea Harbour from but no fitness centre. where whale-watching cruises depart and where Contact: outriggerainanalucondo.com you’ll find the Maui Ocean Center aquarium. Free Wi-Fi:Yep. Beautiful Ka'anapali Beach is 10 minutes up the Perfect for: Families, couples and anyone on road for swimming and snorkelling, and this is a self-drive holiday around Maui who needs a where you’ll see the famous daily cliff diving kitchen and laundry to regroup.
travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 47
Estelle Sarney and Grant Bradley check in to the Park Lane Hotel in Hong Kong
Tokyo’s Book and Bed is a novel place to stay. Picture / Supplied
Check in experience: Ca’Zanardi is a residential palace dating back to the 16th century and doubles as an art gallery. It means there’s no lift (or “mod cons” like air conditioning) but friendly staff were only too willing to carry my bags upstairs. Checkin was prompt and cheery and staff gave directions to local eateries as well as to Venice’s attractions. Price: Around $170 a night. Rooms: There are two lodging facilities here, Suites Zanardi and Residenze Zanardi; I stayed in the latter in a spacious double room, with separate ensuite bathroom. Decor: Some have commented that Ca’Zanardi, with its mix of furnishings (some dating back to the 16th century) and eclectic art, is shabby, creepy and scary but I loved that it didn’t feel, or look, like a
NEW ZEALAND Small Group Tours Cape Reinga to Stewart Island
Overview: The 28-floor luxury hotel is now part of Accor’s upmarket Pullman brand and nearing the end of a $55 million three-year transformation. Though still aiming at a broad market, it has ultra-chic styling, lavish rooms and a rooftop bar with one of the best views in town to Kowloon — and that’s saying something. Location: The Park Lane is in the heart of Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island. Check-in experience: Seamless. We were whisked to a club lounge on the 22nd floor where any troubles (and it was only a bit of travel weariness after a flight from Barcelona) were taken care of and we were in our room minutes after a snack, a delicious avocado salad. Room: On the club lounge floor, our deluxe executive room was spacious had just been remodelled with all new fittings, furniture and a huge TV with stacks of channels. It was a sanctuary in an extremely busy part of the world. The hotel has 832 rooms. What’s in the neighbourhood? This is a prime spot with great clothes shopping all around, (including a tailor and a pipe shop in the hotel arcade) the lovely Victoria Park out the front door, metro and tram stops just metres away and great access to the more laidback beachside centres of Stanley and Aberdeen, a relatively short taxi (about $25) or bus ride away. You can also walk 15 minutes to the vibrant food and local (rather than fake) clothes markets in the Wan Chai area. In rush-hour traffic, a taxi from the airport to the Park Lane takes about 50 minutes and costs around $70. In clear traffic it’s about 30 minutes. You can take a free hotel shuttle to Hong Kong Station and the airport express train from there which is cheaper, or if you feel like a splurge the hotel provides a limo for around $150. Food and drink: The club offers a great breakfast with a choice of meals cooked for you, all-day tea, coffee, beer and snacks and pre-dinner cocktails with hors d’oeuvres between 6pm and 8pm served by friendly staff who wanted guests to take full advantage of the opportunity. There is high-end dining at the Skye restaurant highlighting a contemporary French menu on the 27th floor and more casual dining and a bewildering range of drinks in the terrace bar. Cocktails there start at around $20 so it’s a spot for a treat rather than a session. Another restaurant,
standardised hotel you find anywhere in the world. It has character and, to counter its detractors, that’s won them a fair few fans willing to forgive the shabby chic and idiosyncrasies. Complimentary Wi-Fi: Yes and it worked perfectly for me which, seeing I was in Venice on business, was vital. There’s no TV in the rooms but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Bed: Once again, there have been complaints about the quality of the beds. Too soft and springy, say some; others not that single beds are pushed together to make a double. But it was the most comfortable and peaceful sleep I’ve had anywhere, partly because the pillows were flatter. View: Across a canal to a local high school. Contact: cazanardi.com.
Playt, serves an all-day buffet and a la carte menus and on the ground floor is Ebb & Flow, another ultra-cool spot which the hotel promotes as a round-the-clock hangout. The bed: Apparently just a queen but it was massive, firm and the 300-thread count luxury linen was gorgeous. The view: From our room we looked down on to the busy shopping streets of Causeway Bay. However the best views were from the club lounge and the Skye terrace bar, completely remodelled in the past year, which has become a local landmark for watching the sunset and the lights. It’s a fantastic spot for ship-watching on Victoria Harbour, and a lively night spot. Bathroom: A separate toilet then floor-to-ceiling glass between the basin and neighbouring shower and deep tub to give a fantastic sense of space. The rain head shower delivered a monsoon-like flow. Blinds are there if the transparency feels a bit odd. Wi-fi? Free for an unlimited number of devices. Value for money: The club deal started at around $500 a night in September. If you take into account the food and drink in the club and the absolute luxury, not a bad deal. You also get 20 per cent off on food and beverages in the hotel’s restaurants as well as on laundry, dry cleaning and business centre services. Facilities: The fitness centre on the the fifth floor is stacked with running, cross training and cycling machines as well as weight machines and free weights and has a steam room for women and a sauna in the men’s changing room. There is a pool to use a short distance from the hotel. The business centre on the same floor is quiet and has plenty of space. What’s so good about this place? The location, the amenities — they really are indulgent — but most of all the staff. The small army of smiling folks in the reception level were all helpful and those in the club lounge especially so. They were all eager to replenish food and drink and very chatty about what we had seen in Hong Kong and quick to mark on maps new places to explore. They exuded pride in the hotel and the city. It’s a luxury hotel but it had an iron and ironing board in rooms. Contact: parklane.com.hk. Would we return? Any day.
The Park Lane terrace Bar has a bewildering range of drinks.
Golden Road to Samarkand
KAURI FOREST, BAY OF ISLANDS, CAPE REINGA 1,2,3,5 day tours weekly from 01 December
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Price valid until Sept. 30, 2017
travel
48 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Flight check
Omnibus Jason Reeves flies aboard Air New Zealand’s NZ5005 from Auckland to Napier The plane: An ATR72. Price: Really good. We managed to fly from Auckland to Hawke’s Bay and back for less than $300 for two adults, one child and one infant. Gotta love booking waaaay in advance. Flight time: We were delayed by about 30 minutes because after a quick head count, the crew realised we had more people on board than we should have, and it turned out somebody had accidentally boarded the wrong flight. I had to laugh though because they made an announcement saying “you know this flight’s going to Hawke’s Bay, right? Anybody not going to Hawkes Bay should let the cabin crew know.” Nothing happened. Nobody stirred. Nobody seemed concerned. Then they name-checked the passenger who then realised they in fact weren’t meant to be on that particular plane. I felt sorry for them, but also laughed because I imagine that sort of thing must happen all the time at those regional flight gates at the end of the airport. Our seats: 8A, 8B and 8C. Our 4-year-old, Max, had the window seat, while my wife, Louise, and I sat either side of the aisle and took turns at “wearing” our toddler, Olly, with the infant belt. Plenty of room, thankfully no issues and the kids travelled OK. Which is never a foregone conclusion, and something for which we are always grateful. Fellow passengers: A mix of young families, older people, solo travellers and pairs. A typical Saturday flight to a beautiful part of the country. How full: Pretty full. But then we were one less when we took off! Entertainment: We always bring our own (we travel with kids) but I always really enjoy a flick through the Kia Ora magazine on board. The service: Always top class. The pilots and flight attendants kept everyone up to date with the reasons for the late departure and made sure we had everything we needed. They asked if there was anything they could help Louise and I with for the kids, offered pillows to them, offered to help with buckling the infant belt and simply couldn’t have been friendlier. Food and drink: Again, we took enough supplies to make sure the kids were “distracted” but the crew offered us water, tea, coffee and extra biscuits before the timehonoured lolly basket was brought through. The toilets: Thankfully we didn’t have to use them. Luggage: We checked in a couple of bags and took the nappy bag and a backpack on board. When we got to Napier there were no delays and after all the greeting hugs, our bags actually beat us to the baggage area. The airport experience: Auckland was busy. But then it always is, especially on a wet, Saturday when there are lots of people trying to get away for the weekend. But the staff were friendly and helpful as always and happily chatted with our boys as they scanned their boarding passes (which made the boys feel very cool). It’s the little things that matter. The bottomline: We try to get to Hawke’s Bay to see the family as often as we can, and we always have a fantastic time with Air New Zealand. We booked early and got a great fare, the delay ended up being quite funny and — once again — the weekend seemed to flash by way too fast.
Mark Garrison flies aboard American Airlines AA82, from Auckland to Los Angeles
Picture / Aaron Easton
The plane: A Dreamliner 787-8. American Airlines has put this route on hiatus until October 7. They will then operate the service with a Dreamliner 787-9, a longer version of the aircraft which can seat up to 285 passengers, 59 more than the 787-8. Class: Economy. The Economy cabin was pretty much full to capacity. A flight attendant told me the aircraft had 195 passengers on this flight out of 226 seats though it seemed more full than that. Seating was a standard Dreamliner 3-3-3 configuration. Price: You can get return Economy Class tickets for $999 for flights from October 7 to December 3 and from January 16 to March 24. Sale lasts until September 24. My seat: I was blessed to get a bulkhead seat on the aisle, which was like winning the lottery. The seat has a 31” pitch and a 17” width. Seats also have 110V power ports. It felt confining and for a long flight was not ideal. The tray table was too small and early into the flight my drink fell into my lap so I sat in moist silence for several hours. I was certainly better off than my fellow passengers in non-bulkhead rows. Looking around, everyone seemed cramped. The overhead compartment had ample room for my cabin baggage, which was good as there was no seat in front of me to stick items underneath. On time: We left early and arrived in Los Angeles at 5.50am, approximately 20 minutes early. The flight duration was 111⁄2 hours. Fellow passengers: A mix of American visitors and Kiwis off on US holidays. Entertainment: A really excellent selection of movies and TV and a particularly good selection of box sets available. There was also a surprisingly decent choice of international films available, something Air NZ sorely lacks. I finally saw La La Land, which was so good it made the flight worthwhile just for that alone.
Food and drink: Top marks for the availability of food and drinks. The food was pretty average, but it was plentiful. The chicken teriyaki was fine, but I found the traditional American breakfast a bit heavy. The mid-flight snack of five-spice chicken panini and Kapiti ice cream arrived at the perfect time. Self-serve snacks and non-alcoholic beverages were available for the duration of the flight. Drinks were disappointing. There was only one red wine and one white on offer. I tried to get a second gin and tonic but they had run out of tonic. I asked for a vodka and Sprite and got vodka and Mist Twist, which I had never heard of — it’s revolting. I’m kind of glad it ended up in my lap. Service: The flight attendants were fine, though they looked exhausted and rarely smiled. These long-haul routes are hard on the crew so that wasn’t an issue. What I did find surprising was how every flight attendant pulled out their mobile phones on arrival into LAX and talked among themselves without taking the time to thank passengers. It was efficient service but definitely lacked warmth. Luggage: First two bags are free, then additional bags are $200 each. Airport experience: I had heard so many nightmare stories recently about LAX and its frustrating and timeconsuming immigration procedures that I disembarked the aircraft with a mild sense of apprehension. So it may be a surprise to hear that I sailed through the completely empty terminal, immigration and customs in 15 minutes. No, I am not joking. There were literally no queues at all. It was a truly glorious experience. Would I fly this again: Absolutely. Air New Zealand had a monopoly on this non-stop route for far too long. Competition is a great thing for all Kiwis who want to head overseas. I can’t find any compelling reason to not recommend American Airlines.
travel
Picture / Matthias Mueller
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 49
Stephanie Holmes flies aboard Qatar’s QR921 from Doha to Rome Fiumuncino Plane: Qatar Airways 787 Dreamliner. Class: Economy. Price: Auckland to Rome return fares are from $1445. Luggage: 30kg of checked baggage/7kg of hand luggage. Check-in: After checking in online, at Auckland Airport my luggage was checked all the way through to Split, my final destination. So I had nothing to do at Doha other than go through transit security screening. Airport experience: Getting off the Auckland-to-Doha flight, we walked down steps on to the tarmac and got buses to the terminal. Walking out of the plane was like walking into a steam room — 11pm and still 35C. Luckily the airport’s air con was cranking. Hamad International was calm, quiet and peaceful. Plenty of shops to browse, but I just headed to my gate. Flight time: 5 hours 35 minutes. On time: About 20 minutes late to leave. Seat: 29H, an aisle seat in the last cabin. It felt like a tight squeeze with people in both seats next to me. And
Max Reeves looking at an Air New Zealand plane at Napier Airport. Picture/ Jason Reeves
Gia Garrick flies aboard Fiji Airways’ FJ410 from Auckland to Nadi
The plane: Airbus A330-200. On time: The flight was on time, and despite an issue with my booking (not the fault of the airline) I’d arrived early to check-in and it was helpfully sorted out without any stress on my part. Had plenty of time to chill out, grab a coffee and a bite to eat and amble my way through to the departure gate. Flight time: 3.5 hours, or just under. Class: Economy. My seat: I was in the middle row, aisle seat. My short legs make any seat comfortable enough, and this one had adequate room. Fellow passengers: I was next to a South African-Kiwi dad and his two sons who were on a boys’ trip to Fiji.
Picture / Supplied
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after sitting through a 17 hours 15 minutes’ flight previously, this shorter flight felt really long and my back was sore from so much sitting. How full: About 95 per cent. No chance of finding a spare row to stretch out. Entertainment: The Oryx One system, which had fewer movies to choose from on the Dreamliner than there had been on the 777. I mostly tried to sleep. Food and drink: A light snack was available after takeoff, but I slept through it. Breakfast before landing was a flavourful chicken frittata, garlic mushrooms and potato wedges. My neighbour had the sweet bread pudding which looked pretty good too. Service: The crew were super-helpful — especially when I realised I’d left my reusable water bottle at the boarding gate. They wouldn’t let me off to go and get it, instead delivering it to me at my seat before we took off, with no fuss. Throughout the flight water and juice was served, and the crew were immaculately presented at all times. Fellow passengers: A large Asian tour group, as well as some stylish Italians. Toilets: Clean and well-stocked, with a welcome eau de toilette spray to help me mask my long-haul odour. Would I fly this again: Yes, but next time I’d find a quiet spot at Hamad International and do some yoga stretches in between flights.
Banter was good. The rest of the passengers appeared to be a mix of holiday-makers and expats heading home to see family. How full: Around three-quarters full, but I was down the back so nearer the only empty seats. Entertainment: In-seat touch screen video (although the touch was a bit sticky so I preferred to use the remote) and USB/socket power. A great selection of movies and TV series. There were games too but the flight wasn’t long enough for me to delve into those. The service: Very friendly. I’d learned to use “Bula” by the end of the short international flight. Food and drink: The pasta for lunch was surprisingly good. I was less keen on the coconut log dessert.
travel
50 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
Letters to the Travel Editor When in roaming Dear Sir, I see I’m not the only one unhappy with Spark’s new roaming options. I’ve recently returned from two months in Europe. Before I left, I signed up to Spark’s monthly $50 Zone 6 roaming plan, which included 750MB of data plus 200 minutes talk time and 200 texts. I was given assurance by a Spark customer service representative that this could be renewed monthly or when I ran out of minutes or data, however, this was not the case due to the introduction on August 1 of its new roaming packages, and I had to purchase weekly plans at a cost of $20 each whether I’d used all the data or not. When you consider I was still paying for my New Zealand mobile plan this has proved to be an expensive exercise and one that I won’t be repeating for the sake of the convenience of travelling with my mobile number. Got something to Regards, Jude Wicks The Travel Editor replies: I’m a say? Send your letters seasoned traveller and I have to the Travel Editor never once managed to figure out travel@nzherald.co.nz how Spark’s roaming options work. Kiwi faces Dear Sir, I don’t know what the original letter from P Smith was on about (referred to in “Farmhands from afar” [Travel, September 12]) but can you advise what a “Kiwi face” is in relation to the face of the Kiwi tourism trade? This sounds very similar to when I get into discussions about “Aussies”, where many New Zealanders criticise “the Aussies”, particularly regarding their supposedly racist attitudes (irony alert) and apparent cheating at sport. New Zealanders, including those with Chinese-sounding surnames, come from very diverse cultural and ethnic backgrounds and some New Zealanders whose first (and only) language might be English could open their eyes, ears and minds a bit more. Cheers, Fiona Allen, Papatoetoe The Travel Editor replies: Yup — Kiwi faces come in many colours. Distance learning Dear Sir, In the 50s, I lived in London and went to school in Belgium. No Eurostar 2hr, 1min trip for us — more of a marathon for two nuns and a gaggle of schoolchildren. 7.30am: Meet at Victoria Station to take the train to Dover (two hours), Dover-to-Ostend ferry (four hours on a good day, up to six hours on a rough day and anything in fog!), Ostend-toBrussels train (two hours), and finally a bus trip for the final leg to Tildonk (one hour), not
counting the walking time between the various modes of transport. And then repeat in reverse 12 weeks later. With Eurostar I could have been a weekly boarder! Deirdre Kerr, Snells Beach Bear necessities Dear Sir, Your travelling stars all aligned to produce a terrific read in today’s Travel mag [September 12]; thank you and congratulations. Pretty much every article appealed to me although I’m only an intrepid armchair traveller these days. However, if I do meet a brown bear I’ll be sure to play dead. And scream blue murder if it’s a black one, right? Might play it safe and steer clear of bears of any colour. A minor correction and it’s probably been noted already, but I think the caption for the top photo on p18 should be “Arataki Honey beehive exhibition”, not “National Aquarium”. Aileen Hart Havelock North The Travel Editor replies: Thanks for your kind words and good spot — that was an error in the editing. By the way, I’ve met a grizzly (brown) bear in the wild: thankfully we had a well-prepared Canadian guide leading our group (along with two Englishmen, both of whom I fancied I could outrun).
Another hot tip Dear Sir, Al Capone may have been responsible for a lot of things, but tipping wasn’t one of them (“A tip from big Al”, September 12). The practice began most likely in London in the 1700s. One suggestion is the word comes from “To Insure Promptitude” in pubs and coffee shops. The Oxford Dictionary gives the origin of tip, for financial inducement, as the early 17th century. It crossed the Atlantic and by 1897 the New York Times reported a groundswell against tipping. In 1915, legislators in six states failed to make it illegal. Big Al, for all his thuggery did have a certain style. Bill Veeck, later one of the most innovative of baseball team owners, was a son of the President of the Chicago Cubs (1917-1933). Capone and his brother, Ralph, were regular attendees at Cubs’ games. When Veeck snr got leukaemia, his doctor said the only thing he would be able to keep down was wine. An emotionally stricken Bill Veeck contacted the Capone family (Al being in prison for tax fraud). Soon afterwards, two cases of French Champagne reached Veeck snr’s bedside with a note “Compliments of Al Capone”. Tony Potter, Remuera The Travel Editor replies: That sounds like my kind of doctor.
Signing up to Spark’s roaming plan proved to be an expensive exercise for at least one reader. Picture / 123RF
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Canterbury Farm Gardens & Fete 25 Oct - 1 Nov Christmas in Marlborough 23 - 28 Dec Queenstown New Year’s Eve 30 Dec - 5 Jan Wairarapa Wandering 8 - 14 Jan Hawkes Bay Art Deco Festival 15 - 19 Feb Stewart Island & The Catlins 3 Mar - 10 Mar Molesworth Station & Golden Bay 12 - 18 Mar Wanaka Warbirds 27 Mar - 2 April
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ROME - GREECE - ISRAEL Including 14 night Holyland cruise 2017: October 10 - November 05 2018: September 26 - 16 October Ph: 0800 309196 • 021 174 9588 steve@newzealandtours.co.nz • www.connoisseurholidays.co.nz
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travel
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 | 51
Departure Lounge We like...
"
The cheese roll at The Batch Cafe in Invercargill. “Bloody amazing,” reports an NZME staffer who visited the southern jewel for work. “I’m not saying it’d make a Mystery Break weekend in Invercargill worthwhile, but . . . ”
We don’t like...
!
Tropical mosquitoes that can bite you through your trousers. Hot tip: Don’t wear black pants in the jungle. The mosquitoes will hide on them and feast on your flesh.
Tell us what you like and don’t like in the world of travel. Email travel@nzherald.co.nz
The Tongariro Crossing. Picture / 123RF
Travel Wires Disney classics Like the Mother Island in Moana, Disney theme park staff have the ability to create new forms of life. Staff use code words to diss badly behaved visitors. “Treasured guests” means guests who are not in the least treasured. On its cruise line, staff refer to a kid’s accident in the pool as a “Code Winnie”. The last word is: “As Disney theme parks are often sentimental places, there are several instances every year of visitors spreading a loved one’s ashes either on a ride or elsewhere on site.” In these cases, staff call a “white powder alert” to remove the not-so dearly departed. Pining for Norfolk Norfolk Island Airlines has cancelled direct flights from Auckland after only three months. As soon as they started flying, the Australian government raised departure tax by 10 per cent and the new council upped its charges by nearly 100 per cent. We’d never suggest Australia doesn’t play fair but this coincides with grumpy locals suggesting the island become a colony of Aotearoa. They governed themselves until Canberra decided they were part of New South Wales, scrapped local GST and imposed income and company taxes, and council rates. Come on over, guys: you live closer to the Kiwis than the Convicts.
WIN New Zealand on Foot Now in his early 70s, retired teacher, journalist and keen walker Denis Dwyer devised a plan to rediscover his own country by embarking on a series of more than 200 day walks, and recording them. He traversed a vast array of landscapes — from kauri forests to volcanoes, parks and streets, old battle sites, wetlands and gardens, mountains, a crater rim and the floor of an inferno. The walks are nearly all two hours or less on easy terrain. Part walking guide, part travel
narrative, in his entertaining book New Zealand on Foot, Dwyer also stresses the importance of conserving our walkways and preserving the environment for future generations. We have 10 copies of New Zealand on Foot to give away. To be in to win, like our Facebook page (facebook.com/nzhtravel), and leave us a comment, telling us your favourite day walk in New Zealand and why. Competition closes Monday, September 25, 5pm.
Venice of the Middle East Dubai plans to build a floating replica of Venice with its own Piazza San Marco and winding canals with gondolas. The “world’s first underwater luxury vessel resort“will be built in The World complex, 4km off the coast. Its four decks will offer 414 cabins; 180, the spa and three restaurants will be underwater. Some 3000 guests will arrive by boat, seaplane or helicopter at the main square. The $NZ1b construction is expected to begin next year, be completed by 2020 and have a lifespan of 100 years. In other news, you can still visit the real Venice, though its lifespan may not be so predictable. In the latest cruise news ... The cruise season has officially kicked off for 2017-18 with record numbers of passengers set to sail into Auckland over the next eight months. Auckland is expecting 123 ship visits, bringing an estimated 300,000-plus passengers contributing $245 million to the regional economy. Ateed continues to look into solutions to support the industry’s growth, including the transition of Captain Cook Wharf to include a cruise facility under the long-term city centre and waterfront plan. Yes, we do publish this every year, merely updating the figures. So does Ateed. — travel@nzherald.co.nz
travel
52 | Tuesday, September 19, 2017
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