NZ Herald - Travel 28th March 2023

excursionateveryportofcall

•Enrichmentlectures& destination performances

•UnlimitedfreeWi-Fi

•Beer,wineandsoftdrinkserved withonboardlunchesanddinners

•24-houraccesstospecialty coffees,teasandbottledwater

•CultureCurriculum:lectures andperformancesofart,music, cooking,dance andhistory

•Allporttaxesand fees

•Nocreditcardsurcharges

•Industry-leadingHealth& SafetyProgram

AdditionalinclusionsonOcean andExpeditionvoyages:

•Multiplediningvenues,including alternative restaurantdiningand dailyafternoontea

•24-hourroomservice

•Complimentaryaccesstoour top-rated spa &state-of-the-art fitness centre

•Self-servicelaunderettewithiron andironingboard

InclusionsexclusivetoExpedition voyages:

•Complimentaryonshore excursions;fromtwosix-seater yellow submarines to afleetof military proZodiacs

•Vikingexcursiongear,bootsand expeditionkit foryoutouseon landandsea excursions

4 | Tuesday,March28, 2023 travel

CONTENTS

We normally CruiseSpeciali goingonin ided we should sq year, to helpinspireyourautumnwanderlust. As temperaturesstarttodropanddaysbegin gettingshorter, there’snothing betterto combattheseasonaldoldrumsthanplanning afabulousholidayonthe highseas(or rivers).This 48-pagemagazine is just the ticket.

I’ve saidit before andI’llsayit again— everyonewill findsomething to love about cruising,it’sjustacaseof workingout what styleofshipanditinerarybestsuitsyou. Basedon my owncruise experiences, I’ve comeupwith afew rulesthatmighthelpw yourdecisions —turntop8toget starte

Elsewhereinthemag, we’vegotepictales of expeditions, envy-inducing stories about luxuryvoyages, and countless ideasfordeals, destinationsand itinerariesthat willsuit whereveryou want to travelandwhoever youwanttotravelwith.

My firstcruiseholidayfor the yearis comingupsoon—I’llbetryingout brandn ship OceaniaVistain MayandI’m already countingdown the daysuntil Isteponboard. Readmore aboutthatship —andsomeother newbiessoontosetsail —onp45.AndI’ll be suretoreportbackinthesepagesabout my upcomingadventures.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS

Travel Editor: StephanieHolmes

DeputyEditors: Anna Sarjeant

TravelWriters: Thomas Bywater, SarahPollok, MadeleineCrutchley

Designers: CourtneyWhitaker,RobCox

Features Production Editor: IsobelMarriner

Sub-editors: JillStanford,MaureenMarriner,Sue

Baxalle

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WHEREWE WERE...

Herald journalist Simon Wilson,pictured right,spent hissummerholidayon an expeditioncruise to NewZealand SubantarcticIslandsand Fiordland. You canreadhis firststory fromthetripon p24-27

» Wherehaveyoubeenexploring lately?Send us your photosanda briefcaptionto travel@nzherald.co.nz and we’ll publishsomeofour favourites.

travel@nzherald.co.nz

CRUISE CONTROL

Hitthehighseasandembarkon

» »

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10 18 15 24 31 » » »

SILVERSERVICE

Whatit’slikeonboarda six-starluxury cruiseship

THEMEDCLUB

Voyagesofhistory andcultureinthe Mediterranean

SOUTHSEAVOYAGE

Thebest PacificIslandscruiseitineraries

AMONGTHEALBATROSSES

Simon Wilson ventures to placesother cruiseshipsdon’t reach

MANYRIVERSTOCROSS

Season by season, Europe’s best rivercruises

LONECRUISER

yourowncolourjourneybybringing atouchofadventure homewithfresh Resenepaintcolours to enjoyyear-round,inspired by ourcover. ProudlyNZmadeandownedsince1946.

Resene HotToddy

Resene Antidote

Resene CaptainCook

Resene Allports

ALIFEINTRAVEL

Turia Schmidt-Peke

The

Whatareyourstrongestmemoriesfromyour first overseastrip?

Myoldersisterand Iwentwith my grandfather to the GoldCoastwhen Iwas about 5or6yearsold forour uncle’s wedding. IremembergoingonridesatMovie Worldandplayingwith my cousins.And myPapa takingme to watchthe watershowatthethemepark. What wasastandardfamilyholidaylikewhen growingup?

We alwaysused to go to Waipū inthesummer to stay at acampingplace.Theyweresomuchfun!My oldersisterdidn’t reallylikethembecauseshe wasa teenagerandprobably wanted to gosomewhereelse. Ilovedeating,buildingsandcastlesand swimming forhours.

Whohasmostinspired yourtravels?

Mymumhasalwaysencouragedme to traveltosee the world. Shehasn’ttravelledmuchherselfbutshe’s alwayssupportedme inall my travels.

Whatisthegreatesttrip you’ve ever beenon?

Mywinter Europeonein2014/2015.I went to 11 countriesin fiveweeks on aContiki tour.Somuchfun, somanythings to see,eatandlearn!Unforgettable.

Whatdestinationdid youdreamofmostwhile borderswereclosedduetothepandemic?

Egypt.Thathasalwaysbeen my No 1countrytovisit sinceIwas 11 yearsold.It’s stillon my wishlist. What’s yourapproachtopacking fora bigtrip? Pack everything Ineed,butmakesurethere’senough room foralotofnewstuff

Whatisthedestinationthatmostsurprised you —goodorbad?

Japan. Ihadalwayswanted to goandknewI would love everythingthere.Butthe experienceandtrip were somuchmore. Someofthefriendliest peopleI have evermetinthe world.Andthelightmuseumsare something Iwouldlove to goback to.

Wherewas yourmostmemorablesunrise/sunset?

Balihadsomegoodsunsetswhen my friendsandI were drinkingonthebeach.But to behonest,I’m not really asunrise/sunsetgal.

What’s the firstthing youdo when yougethome from alongtrip?

The firstthing my sistersand Idoisto go to ourparents’ house foraboilup andusuallyseafood.It’s abitofa traditioninourwhānau —boil-up with oystersandkina.

Whatdo youmissmostabout homewhen youtravel?

ImissMāoriandIsland foodwhen I’maway fromhome. Imissagood boil-upwhenI’mhungoverinany country.

to up Ahikāroa,New Zealand’sonlybilingual dramaseries, returns fora newseasonon Wednesday, March29,onWhakaata M

Whereistheonedestination youmustseein yourlifetime?

Ithas to be Egypt.I need to seethePyramids. What’s your favouritethingabouttravel?

Eatingnewfoodandseeingthe fashioninotherplaces. It’s allsodifferent.

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Cruise NewCaledonia, VanuatuandMysteryIsland for$106per night.A nine-nightcruiseaboard Pacific Explorer,theIslandHopperCruisedeparts from AucklandonSeptember30. Pricedfrom $949pp for stateroomaccommodation, allmain mealsand onboa entertainmentareincluded. Astheshipheadsformo tropicalclimes,passengerscan make themostofthe waterparkandwaterslides.Airfaresandtransfers areadditional. BookbyApril 2.

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Made to measure

1There’s acruise for everyone

Ihave afirmly held beliefthatpeople who think they don’t like cruisesjust haven’t found the right cruise yet. Acruise holiday doesn’t havetomean abig,white megaship full of waterslides(althoughI think they’re pretty fun too). These days the options are many and varied, from giants like Wonder of the Seas, to luxury liners like Regent Seven Seas, to boutique small ships like SeaDream,and expedition ships like Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot. And Ihaven’t even got on to river cruising yet. I’ve been on about 10 different cruiseholidays overthe past 15 years and I’ve enjoyed something different on each of them.

Ithink you will too

Ask and you shall receive

My first cruisewas five days on Celebrity Millenium, sailingfrom Miami to Jamaica and Grand Cayman andback but, as atotal newbie, Ihad no idea what to expect .orwhat was expected of me. Embarking in the afternoon, Iwas shown to my cabin and told the sail away party with drinks and canapes would start at 6pm. It was only 2pm andI was starving.But rather than go out and explore —orask the cabin attendants to explain the lay of the land —I waitedinmycabin until 6pm on the dot. Ithought that was just the way things were done. Now aseasoned cruiser, Iunderstand the thing most people loveabout this kind of holiday is that everything is available, all day and all night. If Ihad only explored further, Iwould have found all the food Icould wishfor, all-day entertainment and awhole ship full of company. My advice to other newbies:cruise shipstaffare some of the nicest hospitality workers you are ever likely to encounter andthey will be happy to help with even the stupidest questions. Whatever you’re looking for, just ask.

Going off the beaten track is even nicer when you can do it in luxury

5Smallcan be super Ok, you hate crowdsinconfined places?

That’s no problem. How about asmallship adventure instead?I’ve travelled on afew sailings where the passenger list is in the tens, not thethousands, and on these you are always guaranteed avery special experience. One of my favourites was an Intrepid Travel adventure cruise on Croatia’s Adriatic Coast fromSplit to Dubrovnik.

The benefits of asmall ship are multiple —you get amore personalisedexperience, youget to spend quality time with everyone on board, your ship can go to placesits bigger cousins can’t reach.

In small Croatian portslike Korcula and Hvar, we literally stepped off the ship and were just moments away from the town’s historic highlights. One night in Korcula, Iwasn’t quite ready to go to bed so Iwandered the now-emptyancient streetsofthe walled old town beforetootling back to bed, ready for the next day of excitement.

Try everything once

Bigger can be better

It was achildhood dream to visit the Amazon but as someonewho is terrifiedofcreepy crawlies, Iwas never going to trek through the jungle by myself. Cue Aqua Expeditions, a boutique cruise company offering small ship sailings in the Galapagos, Mekong, the Spice Islands and the PeruvianAmazon. We got to walk through the dense, dripping humidity of the rainforest, but there was someone waitingto greet us with chilled towels and cool drinks as we got back on board. Thenwecoulddiscuss our dayover afine-dining dinner menu from aPeruvian chef who also helmed two Michelin-starred restaurants, and later, sink betweenluxurious lineninthe calmofour cabins (just 16 on board, making the experience even more exclusive). It was more than adecade ago, andI’ve had many epic trips since, but Istill look back on thiscruise as one of my all-time favourite adventures. If you wanttogosomewhere completely wild or off the beaten track, chances are there’s acruise to get youthere 4

Somepeople baulk at sailingonone of the world’sbiggestcruise ships but my experience on Royal Caribbean’s Symphonyofthe Seas was 100 per cent fun. Iwas on board for the ship’s inaugural sailingin2018 and Iwrote “It’svibrant, it’s loud, it’s non-stop entertainment; all fun, all day and all night.” The trip was lessthan48hours but Imade the most of everymoment —experiencing waterslides, laser tag, wavesimulators, mini-golf, azip-line, Broadway shows, drinks made by robotbartenders and muchmore. I appreciate this kind of ship is notfor everyone, but if you’re looking for afun holiday with your kids or agroup of mates, on aship like this you can guarantee no one will be shouting “I’m bored”.

6

See #4 and you’llget asense of my motto on cruise ships —try it all, whatever is on offer. You must eat from all the restaurants, get adrink fromeverybar, see all the shows, plus embrace your inner child and give all the waterslides ago. Try it all once, then you can returntoyour favourites duringthe rest of your journey. Ienjoyed another48-hour inaugural sailingonNorwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Bliss for its 2018 debut. Iraced on the outdoor electric go-kart track, Idanced at the silent disco, Iwatched Tony-award-winning musical Jersey Boys,I ate and drank at as many of the 30 hospitality venues as Icould, and Igot stuck in awaterslide. It wasa designfail,I promise, not because Ioverdid it at the buffetand it’s possibly the most embarrassing thing that’s ever happened to me on acruise ship. But it certainly

The BionicBar onboard Symphony of the Seas.

Scanthis QR code with yourmobile phone to findmoregreattravel tips, adviceand inspiration from nzherald.co.nz/travel

PeregrineAdventures smallshipcruiseinCroatia; right,theAquaPark on boardNorwegianBliss.

makesforanentertainingstorywhenI retellitnow.

7Parisisalways agoodidea Ifyoudon’tliketheideaofanoceancruise, whetherbigshiporsmall,may Itemptyou insteadwith arivercruise?Ifyoulovewatching theworldgoby,withthechancetobeimmersed intheday-to-daylivesofEuropeantownsand villages,thisiscertainlythecruisestyleforyou. Rivercruiseitinerariesmostlyseeyousailing atnight— leavingportwhileyousitdownto dinner,anddockinginthemorning —meaning everydaybrings anewlocationto discover.OnmyUniworldsailingfromParisto Normandy’sD-Daylandingbeachesandback again,westrolledthe streetsofmedieval Rouen,with ahistorysorichitsformerresidentsincludeWilliamthe Conquerorand JoanofArc,andate attherestaurant whereAmerican chefJuliaChildexperiencedherfirsttaste ofFrenchcooking.In Paris, Idisembarkedfora half-daybiketourthen,backon boardthatnight,watchedtheEiffel towerilluminatedforitshourlylight show.The viewwas magnificent,asarethememories.

ventureddeepintoDoubtfulandDusky Sounds,wherewesawbarelyanyother humansanditfeltlikeperhapswe hadfallen offtheendoftheEarth.Itwaswinterand thewaterwas afresh12C-14Cbutthatdidn’t stoponeofmyfellowpassengers, 90-somethingNoel,fromdivingofftheboat’s aftdeckeverysingledayfor apolarplunge. Therewasnowaywecouldlethimshowus up,sowedidittoo.Myeverynaturalinstinct wastogobackinside(mycabinissocosy!), wrapupwarm(whyam Iintogs!),andget awarmingglassofwine(muchbetteridea!). Butinstead, Ijumped. anditwas afeeling of pureinvigoration. BackinDoubtfulSoundin Octoberlastyear,on an overnightcruisewith RealNZ, Ihadanother polarplungeopportunityandonthis occasion Ibarely evenhesitated.I knewtheinitial shockofthecold waterwouldsoonbe replacedbyjoyand elation,and Iwas right.. .I endedup jumpinginthreetimes, oneaftertheother.

8

Ifyou’reunsure,justjumpinanyway WhileNZ’sborderswereclosedandwe wereallgiftedtheopportunitytoexplore ourowncountrywithfresheyes, Ispenta blissfulsevendaysonboardFiordlandDiscovery’sluxurycatamaran,FiordlandJewel.We

REMOTEWILDERNESSAREAS

Weoffer high-end adventure cruising aboard theFiordland Jewel, ourboutique catamaran, purpose-builttogiveguests like youa once-in-a-lifetime experiencethatyou’llnever forget.Withamaximum of just 18 passengers on board, allournine climate-controlledcabins have sea viewsand privateensuites.

with 1.2million hectaresof UNESCOWorld Heritage-listedNationalParkto be explored,our GrandTourprovidesthefull Fiordlandexperience-

So,whetheryou’realreadyon board an expedition ship trying to workyourselfupto apolarplungeor,more metaphorically,tryingtodecidewhetheryou shouldtaketheplungeandbook acruise holiday,myadvicewillalwaysbetogo forit.

Iknowyouwon’tregretit.

Formorestories,tipsandadviceaboutcruising,go tonzherald.co.nz/topic/cruise-holidays

6N IG HT STEWART

IS LA ND TheFiordland Jewelisheadingsouth in October. Beenveloped in thetruewildernessofRakiura StewartIsland,and discover itsnatural wonders.

6N IG HT MA RL BO RO UG HS OU NDS TheFiordland Jewelisheadingnorth in August, joinustoexplore thehidden bays andcovesof QueenCharlotte,Kenepuru andPelorusSounds andd’Urville Island. PR IVAT EC HA RT ERS Whetherit bescenicorafishing,hunting or diving expeditionwecan tailor your trip to suit yourgroup.

6N IG HT NOR TH ER NF IORDS

Journeythroughthe lesser visitedremote fiordsin betweenMilford andDoubtfulSounds.

Photos /Supplied

Cruising: Luxury »

Is this the real life? Is this just fantasy? Neil Porten discovers what it's like on board asix-star cruise ship

Will Iever have another year when my butler wishes me “Happy Birthday”? Unlikely in this lifetime, mate But in anotherlife, on a Silverseacruise, such niceties are graciously offered and gratefully accepted.

Silver Museisa beautiful, perfectly-sizedship for 600 guests —fromAustria, Switzerland, Ireland,Australia, the US, the UK and elsewhere on thistrip —and it’s hard to fault anything about it. But it is the service provided which is the real hallmark of the Silversea experience. Guests are put at ease so that friendly interactions are initiated effortlessly.Doing yourown thing is just as easy,but for me, and for manyothers onboard, thisisthe magic of cruising, where camaraderie is sought and confidences freely shared.

So it feels right to tell the tale of thisvoyage from Auckland to Cairns with aprocession through the ship’s wonderfulspaces, highlighting the warm hospitality andfriendly encounters enjoyed within them.

Auniformed officer warmly welcomes us onboard in the midship lobby and directs us to oursuite, while the crew member beside her offers us both acool towelette.

Suite steward Macgreets us at stateroom 614 and tells us our butler will soon be along to introduce himself Terrence, dressed in tails, explains his role: he is our firstcontact for anything we need. Hisfirst task: cracking the chilled Champagne!

Our verandasuite is standardona Silversea ship, which is to say it’s deluxe in everyway

There’s agenerous lounge area. Italian linen on the queen bed is crisp and cool andthere’s apillow menu. The bathroom is enormous, with plenty of room for two in front of the vanity, and afull-size bathtub. You have Bvlgari lotions, fluffy bathrobes, and voluminous storage including a walk-in wardrobe.

Overthe next twoweeks,Terrence and Mac create ahavenfor us. No detail is toosmall charger cordsare coiled tidily duringhousekeeping; Suzanne’s favourite cashews are replenished as quicklyasshe can tosspackets in the drawer for later; shoes in the wardrobe are linedup; beverageswechoose for ourminifridge neverrun out.

Terrenceservesbreakfast acouple of times during the cruise, always on awhite linen tablecloth in the lounge. More than once he suggests afternoon canapes or caviar —why not? When youcan order almost any item from any restaurantit’s notsurprisingmany guests choosetoeat in their suites.

But we want to try everything,everywhere, if maybenot all at once. Afterour Day Onegreetand-meet, we head to Arts Cafe. All day you can find asweet or savourytreathere, maybe apiece of pecanpie, as well as acaffeine hit.

Istart my art trail in the cafe, taking in many of theship’s 600-piece collection. Silver Muse was designed and built in Italy; an Italian

SILVER SERVICE

Checklist SILVERSEA

DETAILS

There are 11 Silversea ships to choosefrom, cruising to more than 900 destinations around the world. For more information, see silversea. com

aesthetic predominates— marble,columns,muted yet rich colours andfurnishings. Murano glass vases brighten the midship stairways. In the forward stairwells, thehistory of The Veneto is woven in fine tapestries.

At the top of that stairwellisthe Observation Library Right abovethe bridge withits own bar, 180-degree forward viewsand adoor leading up to the observation deck, where there’s no better place for marvelling at the beauty of Sydney Harbour

Here on ourfirst evening, we meet Pauline and Stevenfrom New York,who’ve been aboardsince Melbourne. This quietlounge is afavourite haunt of theirs —Steven has the barman makehim a“special” espressomartini (I try onetoo). In no time, Paulineistelling us aboutcollecting mahjong sets and playing the game onboard, and the impendingbirth of their first grandchild.

Steven is disappointed that bad weather has foiledhis attempt to playa roundofgolf in every port.Their adviceasSilversea veterans: “order anything, especially caviar!” and“get your butler to shine your shoes!”

On anotherevening here,Pauline relates the “sake saga”:you can get wine anywhere onboard, shesays, and have it sent to your room or anyrestaurant. But rice wine is only served in the Kaisekirestaurant, she’s told.Undeterred, Pauline succeededingettingthe barman at Atlantide restaurant, Alexander,tokeep abottle in the fridgejust for her.The story illustrates the dance between gleaned intel and guest/crew relations, asort of Da Vinci Code treasure hunt, which is great fun to play as the voyage progresses.

La Terrazza is afabulous Italian restaurant at nightand has agreat buffetatbreakfast and

lunch.Our first lunch there includesthe biggest seafoodmountain you’reever likelytosee.A smilingstewardwill hand you either acold or awarm plate. There are so many servers taking orders, seating guests, busingbut not fussing

We have dinner there with Brisbanites and seasoned voyagers Peter andSimone, who become firm cruisefriends. The antipastiisgreat, the pansotti pasta withwalnut sauceisnutty and hearty, and the cassata dessert satisfyingly sweet

On another evening, we slideinto La Terrazza for second pudding,joiningSteven and Pauline, whoare dining with their new friendMike,who hassailed 900nights with Silversea. He likes that everyone onboard enjoys the same excellent service, with no exclusive restaurants or special-access areas. Pauline and Stevenare enjoying chicken parmigiana and Mikeaplate of fancy fish and chips. Neither meal is on the menu, but Mikeknowsthat if you givethe chef enough notice he will cook you almost anything. That’s another level unlocked in the Silversea game

Service around the pool is ahighlight. An army of attendants bring you towels and lay them outonyour lounger, fetch you Champagne andcaviar, hand you the coldest towelette on thehottest Townsville afternoon.You can drink at the Pool Bar or eat at The Grill, or Spaccanapoli one deck up besidethe jogging track.

The personable Donovan, who commandsthe food and drink side of things here, knows our names by thesecond afternoon. He is willing to turn ablind eye to us drinking in the almost secret jacuzziright at the back of Deck 10. Most days there is abuffet lunchatThe Grill —on Swiss day we getour fill of sausages, potatosalad andspatzle.It’s here onenight Ioverhear a dinner conversation where an Americanpassenger exclaims“this is the bestcruise I’ve been on:the best ship, the best crew and the best guests!”

Allan tends thePool Bar and oneevening mixes ablood-orangemargarita that perfectly matches the colour of the settingsun. Over lunch at Spaccanapoli,where the pizzas demand to be devouredtothe last crust, Pauline pitches

Main: SilverMuse arrivingat theSydneyHarbour;above, TheGrill, on the pool deck invitesthe guests to cook their fooddirectly on the lava stone. Photos/ Supplied

whatshesaysistheperfectopeninglineformy story:“Onthefirstnightofthecruisewemet themostwonderfulAmericancouple ...”

Aftera browsethroughtheboutique, makeagrandentranceviathesparkling spiralstaircasetothePanorama Loungeabove.Outside,thecouches areperfectfor aviewoftheship’s wakeorthelights ofthe Sunshine Coast.Inside,thejazztrioareresident intheearlyeveningandtheDJison later.Oneafternoontheboutique showcasesitsblingiestjewellery,with anenthusiasticline-upofguestsas models,includingourfriendSimone.

DolceVita,attheheartoftheship,is almostfullforafternoontrivia,runbycruise directorMartin,theconsummatequizmaster. We’reinvitedtojointhefriendliestmultinationalquizteam,allseasonedcruisers,which makesthegeographyquestionseasy.Thebar serves amoreishtiramisumartini.

Alacartebreakfast,lunchanddinner areonofferinthegenteelseafoodand steakgrillAtlantide.Pauline’sfriendly barmanAlexanderconcoctsanouzo mojitoafter Ispot abottleofthestuff ontheshelf.Hereweshare adinner tablewithsiblingsBobandMaryBethandtheirrespectivespouses AnnieandBobwhohailfrom Philadelphia.Again,theattentiveserviceandgreatfoodallowforrelaxed conversationandconviviality.

Sparklyblack marbletablesandsleek banquettessetthescenefor apan-Asianfeast atIndochine.Theserversindulgeourdesireto tryalmosteverythingatonesittinganda banquetpromptlyappears.Spicesflavourthe drinksatEnoteca,Indochine’sbar,wherebartenderGauravpoursmea generousshotof Japanesewhiskey.

Moreintimateinscaleareteppanyakigrill

Kaiseki,FrenchrestaurantLaDameandclub hangoutSilver Note. Icelebratemybirthday inthechicambienceofLaDame,eating souffleforentreeanddessertand enjoying achorusof HappyBirthday servedwithpetitfoursbyourfine waiterRamzi.

SilverNotebecomes afavourite. Weeathereasacouple,delighting inthemusicofchanteuseIuliaand pianistLecivan.Ourwaiter Armandoinsists Iaddthelobster tailto myentreeastheduckstarter is“toosmall!”Anothernightwe comeback with Simone and Peter, and barmanVernpliesuswithdramsof variousscotchesandtotsofrum.When Iuliasings ajazzyrenditionofRadiohead’s Creep,I realisethat Ido,indeed,belonghere. Whiz-bangentertainmentandactivitiesare alongwaydownthelistofprioritiesona Silverseacruise,but everyeveninghasa showinthesleekVenetianLounge theatreorPanoramaLounge.Destinationandlocalhistorylecturesare worthwhile.Bridgeplayerssmile andgreet mewarmly when Ipopin for anosy.Andplentyofinteresting shoreexcursionsareincludedin thefare.

Onourfinal,saddeparturefrom SilverMuse,afterthelastperfect gestureofservice —apairofsmiling crew members take and carry our handluggagedownthegangway —I’m filledwiththecertaintythat Ihaveleft somethingbehind.

OntheCairnsquayside,holdingmyownbag (ugh!), Iunderstandwhatitis.It’smyreallife, alifeofbutlers,suiteattendants,caviarbythe pool,chilledtowelettesintropicalclimes. Thatisallrealandthis —this —willforever bemyfakelife.

Available until31March 2023*

To bookvisitcunard.com,call 0800543431 or

Fares arecruiseonly,perperson,inNZD,incompletetwinaccommodation,basedonleadcategorystateroomsasspecifiedavailableattimeofpublication, inclusiveofalldiscounts,taxes,fees,andportexpenses(whicharesubjecttochange).Supplementsapplyforotherstateroomcategories.Faresbasedon specificdeparturedatesonly;higherfaresmayapplytootherdeparturedates.Campaigncommences13December2022andends31March2023,unless soldoutprior.Cunardhassetaside areasonablenumberofstateroomswhichareavailableatthesefares.Oncethisallocationisexhausted,faresmay revertto ahigher fare,butmayalsobediscounted.SomeOceanviewandBalconystateroomsmayhaveanobstructedview.Valid fornew bookingsand notcombinablewithanyotheroffer.Alloffersaresubjecttoavailability. ComparisonlaunchfaresandsavingsarebasedonCunardfareslaunchedintothe marketFebruary2022andMay2022.Savingsvarybystateroomcategoryanditinerary.Offeronlyavailableonselectcruises –seecunard.com/explore-theworldforapplicablesailings.OfferisonlyavailableonCunardFaretypes. ComplimentaryGratuitiesofferisbasedon pre-paymentbyCunardofsuggestedgratuitiesintheamountofUSD13.50perpersonperdaywhenbookingGrillSuites, andUSD11.50perpersonperdaywhenbookingBritanniastaterooms.ComplimentaryGratuitiesofferisnotavailablefor third/fourthberthguests. Vaccinationrequirementsmayapply,andgovernmentguidelinesmayresultin arequirement toquarantineduringorafteryourcruiseandmayrestrictyourabilitytoparticipateinshoretoursordisembarktheship atportswevisitduringyourcruise.Seewww.cunard.com/sailing-with-confidenceformoreinformation.Guidelinesare subjecttochangewithoutnoticeandassuch,ouractualcruiseofferingsmayvaryfromthedescriptionsprovidedand imagesdisplayed.Cruiseitinerariesarenotguaranteed.Offerends31March2023,butmayendearlierifsoldout.Offeris nottransferable,notredeemableforcashandmaynotbecombinablewithotherselectoffersorotheronboardcredits. To bereadinconjunctionwiththe TermsandConditionsatcunard.com/en-au/legalwhichpassengerswillbeboundby.

A1.1%surchargefor VisaandMastercardand a2.75%surchargeforAMEXappliestodirectbookingsmadethrough ourcallcentreandwebsite.Thereisnochargefordebitcardpayments.Whilstallinformationiscorrectatthetimeof publication,o

ersaresubjecttochange.PleasecheckwithCunardat thetime ofbooking. Travelagentsmaycharge additionalfees -checkwithyourtravelagent.CarnivalplctradingasCunardABN23107998443.

Scanherefor awider s selection of voyages

Cruising: Luxury »

LeBonVoyage

SaraBunny goesonan expeditionwiththeworld’s only French cruiseline

Upontheship’sbridge,surrounded byglowingscreensanddials,a fewFrenchsailorswithinearshot ofourgrouparestifling alaugh.

We’regetting abehind-the-scenes tourofthecaptain’sdomain,and thequestionsaregoingslightlyoff-piste.

“Whatwouldhappenif Ihadonetoomany cocktails andfelloverboard,”someoneasks,only halfjoking.“Don’tworry,”smilesCaptain Pierre-MarieDucournau,“wewouldturnthe shiparoundandcomebacktogetyou.”

OnboardLeSoleal,oneof13luxuryvesselsrun byFrenchcruisecompanyPonant,thereisso littletoworryaboutthattheanxiousmoderndaybrainstartstoconjureupfancifulscenarios.

Onthisship, withitschicinteriordecorin calmingneutraltones,theonlyrealconcernsarewhetheryoushouldfillinan afternoonwith aswim,snorkeltripor snooze,andwhetheryoucansqueeze in acheeseboardalongsidedessert.

I’monPonant’s12-dayexpedition cruise,AncientCulturesofPapua

NewGuinea,whereexploring exoticSolomonSea islandsbefore savouringtheevening’sdegustationmenuisallin aday’swork.

Theultimatecombinationofadventureandcreaturecomforts,this isthesortof cruisewhere acoolglass ofwineisalwayswaitingafteran excursioninthetropicalheat,cushions staymagicallyplumped,andthere’s atiny snackonatraybesidethebedwhen Iarrive backatmystateroomeachnight.

Itallsoundsratherposh,butwith“casual elegance”partofthecompanyethos,it’sstarched linenandseamlessservicewith arelaxedand friendlyvibe.

Ourvesselboastsallthebellsandwhistlesyou wouldexpectfroma 5-starcruiseline,including afancyspa,tworestaurants, apoolbaranda pianobar.Mystateroomisslightlycorporatebut ultracomfy;there’sanespressomachinefor morningcoffeeonmyprivatebalcony,excellent showerpressureand alineupofHermestoiletriesonthevanity.With atransparentwallin thebathroom,there’stheoptiontobathewith aviewouttosea,oryoucanslidethecover across andtakeanordinaryshowerifstaringatseagulls whilecompletelystarkersjustfeelstooweird.

Forthethirsty,thereisasetrangeofdrinks includedinyourfare,plus astaggeringwallof

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CRUISE HOLIDAYS

Allpackagesincludethecruise, pre/postaccommodation,transfers, flyingAir TahitiNuieconomyclass, andluxurycartransfers to/from your relevantinternationalairport.

ultimatecruising.co.nz or call us 0800485846

Checklist

DETAILS

Ponantoffers avarietyof cruisesandexpeditions, withthenextAncient CulturesofPNGcruise settingsailfromNov12-23. Seeponant.com

winefridgesinthedownstairsrestaurantforthosewhowishto splashoutonextra-specialdrops. Fortheculturallyandenvironmentallycurious,therearedaily seminarsintheauditoriumon everythingfromthehistory ofbetelnutchewingtothe formationofcoralreefs.

Butastheonlycruise linesailingunderthe Frenchflag,it’salsoa Francophile’sdelight. Here,theeveningshows featureMoulinRougestylecan-candancersand whimsicalhomagesto Paris,andFrenchpastries arewheeledouteachafternoon inthemainlounge.

OnallCompagnieduPonantcruises, instructionsoverthePAsystemaregivenin Frenchfirst,thenEnglish,andeachvoyage attracts asignificant number ofFrench-speaking passengers.Theinternationalcrewhaveallthe majorlanguagescoveredsoyoudon’tneedtobe abletospeak aword ofFrancais,butitnever hurtstohave abubbly “bonjour”attheready.

Amall-sizedfloatingmega-shipthisisnot,and itseemsallthebetterforit.LeSolealcancater forupto264guests;thistripwe’retravellinglight

LE PAULGAUGUIN 5 REAS ONS

UNIQUEDESIGN

A class luxury small ship – Le Paul Gauguin is perfect for getting as close as possible to French Polynesia’s superb lagoons and coves

EXTRAORDINARYMARITIMEROUTES

From7to 16nights,with avarietyofitinerariesenablingan authentic encounter withthe mostbeautifulSouth Pacific islands.

INTIMATESIZEDSHIP

With only 165 cabins and suites, and a crew member for every 1 5 guests, Le Paul Gauguin ensures a warm and personal cruise experience ALUXURY, ALL-INCLUSIVEEXPERIENCE

Sophisticated cuisine an open bar room service activities and entertainment – all included so that your cruise is that much more special

FEELTHEMANA

Le Paul Gauguin s on-board Polynesian hosts create a warm and authentic atmosphere sharing their 1000 year old culture and traditions

Thetricolourflagis afeature onthedeckofeveryPonant ship;below,L’Eclipse restaurant;stateroomsboast cushyfurnishingsandsoft neutralcolours. Photos /Sara Bunny;StudioPonant

withabout150passengersonboard.Thecaptain sayssmaller-capacityshipsallowformorefrequentvisitsashoreonthezodiac inflatables,and for me, seeingthesamesetoffaceseachdaysoon makesforeasybanteratthepastrytable.

The60-or-soEnglishspeakersonourtrip includealargecontingentofAussies, asmatteringofAmericansand ahandfulofEuropeans, andthevast majorityarematuretravellers.

As alonerangeramong aslewofcouples,a newbiecruiseramongtravelconnoisseursand theonlyKiwionboard,I’mquicktopaintmyself asanoutlierinthegroup.Butbetweenplenty offriendlystrangerscomingovertochatandmy increasingboldnessatgate-crashingother people’stablesatdinnertime, Isoonmeetfar morepeoplethanIwouldhaveifI wastravelling in atwosome.Ponantoffers arangeofcruises withnosinglesupplements, meaningsolotravellersontheseparticulartripscanluxuriatein theirowndoublestateroomwithoutextracost. Asthenearlytwo-weekvoyagedrawstoa close,I’mfearinghowI’llsurvivebackinthereal worldwithoutanupstairsbartender,orthelittle pre-slumbersnacks Inowbelievenecessaryfor vitalsustenance.OneretiredAussiecoupletells metheyoftenbooktheirnexttripbeforethey’ve finishedthecurrentone.

“Youjustgethookedonthecruiselife,”they tellme.I wouldn’thavebelieveditbefore,but Ithinktheymightberight.

LE PAULGAUGUIN

Enjoyintimate andclassicluxuryas youcruisethe watersof French Polynesia -includingspectacular BoraBora.

Departs:Selecteddatesin2023

10nightsSocietyIslandsfrom$8,999pptwinshare ex AUCKLAND

Includes:Special $850First-timediscount Bonus:US$150ppon-boardcredit

Answer the call of the wild andembarkonanall-inclusive Arctic expedition withSilversea.Fromthe rarely visitedCanadian HighArcticorthe remote shores of Greenlandplus timehonoured favourites to BritishIsles,Iceland andSvalbard, ourarcticvoyages will take youto thefarthestrealmsonEarth.Hosted by expert expedition teamswithdecades ofexperience, ourall-suite shipsare designed forpolar exploration andrenownedfor theirextraordinary comfort. Ournewestship SilverEndeavour,embodiesour vision of modern,ultra-luxuryexpedition cruising anddebutsastheworld’smostluxurious expeditionship. Hersuperiorice-class capabilities,coupled with cutting-edge navigation technology enable unparalleled access to some of thefarthestreaches of Earthwhile herunrivalledexploration equipment allowsfor immersiveand personalised discovery whileashore.

DOOR-TO-DOOR ALL-INCLUSIVE WITH 15%REDUCEDAND REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT*

From international flights andall airport/hotel/ship transfers, includingnew privateexecutive transfersfromhome, to pre- andpost-cruise hotelnights, shoreexcursions andmore, this truly“door to door”optionensurescomplete peaceofmindevery momentofyour journey.

PORT-TO-PORT ALL-INCLUSIVE WITH 15%DEPOSITAND LOWERFARES*

OurPort-to-Portfareoption is appealingtothose whoprefertomaketheirpre-and post-cruisetravel arrangements independently withoutsacrificingluxury. Enjoyall of Silversea’sinclusive amenitiesand services once onboardand save up to 25%when compared withDoor-to-Doorfares withoutair*.

VISITSILVERSEA.COM,CALL1300306 872ORSEE YOUR TRAVELPROFESSIONAL.

validfor newindividualbookingsmade during promotionalperiodand may be withdrawn at any timewithoutnotice. Promotional airofferisonly availableto thefirstand second full-fareguestsinasuite.Valid forselect gateways to guestsfromAustralia only.Silverseareserves theright to select theair carrier,routing anddeparture airport from eachgatewaycity. Deviations to airtravel datesaccepted; surchargesmay apply. Allfares,savings,offers, itineraries, andprogramsare subjecttochangewithout notice.Voyagehighlights, excursions,and enrichment programs aresubject to change and/or cancellation withoutprior notice.All informationcontained herein isaccurate andineffectasof6March 2023.Silverseareservesthe righttocorrect anyerrorsand omissions andtocancelany offeredproduct or serviceinthe eventofsucherrororomission. Thepromotion is capacity controlled andcan be removedatany time.Additionalrestrictionsmayapply.For completeterms andconditionsand promotionalperioddatesvisit silversea.com

SURF THEMENU

Whythe Gold Coastisfastbecoming aculinaryhotspot

When youthink of holidaying on theGold Coast, worldclassrestaurants maynot be thefirstthing that springs to mind. Yetoverrecentyears this southern Queenslandregion hasbecomea foodies’ paradise.Inthe past twoyears following thepandemic,thousandshavemoved from Melbourne,Sydneyand theouter regions to theGold Coast forafresh start, bringing an influxofresidents with hospitality expertise anda fresh setofideas

Nowholiday-makers visiting theGold Coast cansample award-winning dishesand five-star service, alongwithculinarytastes to suitevery craving, from Italianand Pan Asianeats to modernAustralian andculinary fusions from MiamiMarketta, thecity’s famouslyvibrant nightmarket.

WhileaQueensland barbie by the beachoracoldieataSurfClubisstill a quintessentialway to mark your time here, theGoldCoast’s diningscene hasevolved with severalexciting neweateriesand hidden hauntsopening. Whereelse can youfind asip-from-the-source brewery one night, amodernseaside degustationthe next,and allthe hippestbakeries, newbars and restaurants in between?

Thereare now23chef-hatted restaurants (eateriesawarded forconsistent culinary excellence), focusing on locallysourced, sustainable,and seasonal produce. Social Eating Houseisapopular examplein Broadbeach, wheregroupscan dine on share-styleplatesinarelaxed andelegant setting.Orheadtothe two-hatted Palazzo Versace’s Vanitas, forsophisticatedItalian Afterthe very best Chinese? Head to Uncle Su,withits exciting blendofCantonese Beijingand Szechuan-style dishes,along with fresh live seafood andyum cha.

If top-enddiningwiththe hinterland at your doorstepismoreyourstyle,visit BeechmontEstate, aprivately-ownedWagyu

andpolo farm,where youcan choose to stay in aluxurycabin or pavilion butifyou’d prefer to just drop in forbreakfast,lunch or dinner at its celebrated restaurant The Paddock No triptothe Gold Coastiscomplete withoutsundownerspool side,and if you’re afterarooftopbar experience,headtoCali BeachClubinthe heartofSurfers Paradise to loungeinabooth,cabanaorday bed while nibbling on shareplates, slidersand salads.

Forclassic Australian fare youcan’t go wrong at Currumbin VikingsSurfClubright on the beach. Full flavours canalsobefound in the delicious beachside burgersatZePickle.

This street side eatery in BurleighHeads has craftbeers on tapand an assortment of tasty burgers(trythe Pulled Pig,withapplewood smoked pulledpork)

Beer aficionados arealsowellservedat Madocke Beer Brewing in Ashmore. This family-friendlycraft brewery, taphouse andlivemusic venuefocuses on Belgianstyle beers, pluscider,wineand cocktails (and food trucks on Fridaysand Saturdays, andlivemusic on Sundays).Rathersip on a chardonnay? Visitone of theregion’smany beautifulvineyards, cellar doors or winebars.

TheGoldCoast hasnoshortage of fabulous bakeries,either. In Sanctuary Cove,makesuretostopinatRise Bakery,

alittlesliceofParis,where Frenchchefs servebuttery croissants, pain au chocolat, danishes garnished in glossy fruits alongsidequiches,piesand perfectly crusty breads andbaguettes.

Seafoodisnaturally in abundance on the Gold Coast, andwhenitcomes to iconic seafoodvenues, Terracesis along-standing favourite. This popular seafood buffet at Sheraton GrandMirageoffersahuge arrayoffresh andcookedseafood —think prawns,Moreton Baybugs,crabs andmore. Or youcould simply buyyourseafood fresh straight offthe trawlerfromthe Fishermans co-opinMain Beach.

Meanwhile, theGoldCoast’s cafe culture rivals anywhereinthe worldand GoldCoast baristas setthe barhigh, slinging quality coffee to cureyourcaffeinecravings.When thesun’s up we’reall foralfrescoacaibowls andbreakfast boards bearing fresh local produce, superfoodsalads,rusticavo smash and eveneggsbennystuffed croissants(yep, they’reathing).

Elsewhere, veganeateriessit alongside revamped rooftops andconverted warehouses,and once thesun goesdown, speakeasy vibes andcosyrum hideaways add anotherflavourtothe scene.The hardest part is fitting it allin.

Photos /supplied.

To plan your culinary itinerary on theGold Coast, visitdestinationgoldcoast.com

Cruising: Europe »

THE MED CLUB

Iconicvoyageswillimmerseyouinculture andhistory,writes TianaTempleman

FromancientRomanruinstomedievalcastles,smallhiddenbeaches andseasidecafes,theMediterraneanispackedwithhistory,culturalhighlightsandscenicvistas everywhereyouturn.Whether you’recraving adayrelaxingona sun-kissed beachintheFrenchRivieraor aglassofwine at abarhiddenbehind Dubrovnik’sfortified walls,there’s acruisetogetyouthereand aship tosuit.From amightymegalinertoa rigged sailingclipper,andeverythinginbetween,the followingcruisesholdthepromiseofa specialkindofMediterraneanmagic.

VIKINGOCEANCRUISES

IconicWesternMediterranean

ExploreFrance’sRivieraand TuscanyinItalyon aseven-night WesternMediterraneanvoyage fromBarcelonatoRome.Overnight staysinyourdepartureportand Tuscanywillgive youampletimeto makethemostoftheart,history,food andwinescenesinthesefamous destinations.You’llcallatMontpellier andMarseilleandtraveltoMonteCarloto strollaroundthestreetsalongsidetherichand famous.VikingJupiterisanall-veranda,allinclusivesmallshipwithjust930gueststhatlets yousavourboththejourneyandthedestinations.

From$3238pp.viking.com

STARCLIPPERS

VenicetoCroatiaandMontenegro

Experiencetheexcitementofbeingona traditionalsailingshipon around-tripseven-night cruiseonRoyalClipper, afive-mastedfullyriggedbeauty.Settingsailfromtheromanticcity ofVenice,you’llcruisedowntheCroatiancoast withstopsatHvar,Dubrovnik,VisandRovinj. There’salso asidetriptoKotorinMontenegro beforetheshipreturnstoVenice.Withthewarm windsoftheMediterraneantoguideyouandan experiencedcaptain and crew,theshipandthis itinerarycapturetheromanceofbeingatsea.

From$3524pp.starclippers.com

Below,theVikingSeasails pastLokrumislandwhile leavingDubrovnik,Croatia; above,thepoolsideretreat forguestsontheCelebrity Beyond. Photos/ Supplied

ROYALCARIBBEAN

GreekIsles

EmbarkonRoyalCaribbean’snewestship,OdysseyoftheSeas,for a10-nightvoyageintoazure seas,sunshineandfun.Idealforfamiliestravellingwithkids(orgrown-upswhoarekidsat heart),Odysseyis afloatingfunpalacewith indoorskydiving, avirtualrealitybungytrampoline,dodgemcarsandanimmersiveVRzone thatbringsdifferentworldstolife.ThisroundtripcruisefromRometakesyoutosomeofthe bestportsintheMediterranean,including SantoriniandMykonosinGreece,Ephesusin Turkey,andNaplestosamplewhatsomesayis theworld’sbestpizza.From$1970pp. royalcaribbean.com

MSC Mediterranean

For ashortbutsweetMediterranean cruise,thenewMSC WorldEuropa hasminiitinerariesstartingatjust twonightsandisthelatestinhightech,classycruisingon abudget.Big isthewordwhenitcomes to this ship,withmorethan6750passengersspreadover22decksanda dazzlingarrayofentertainmentand diningoptions.Theseshortitinerariesareidealforexperiencingthefun ofsailingonthisbrand-newmegaship andexperiencingeverythingithastooffer, likerollerdiscosandthelongestdryslideat sea. However,withtop-tierportslikeNaplesand Vallettafeaturingontheseshortitineraries,it’s temptingtogetofftheshipandexploreonshore aswell.From$995pp.msccruises.com

ELIXIRCRUISES

DivineCyclades

Pristinebeaches,crystal-clearwatersandthe classic,white-washed,blue-domedarchitecture oftheMediterraneanawaityouonthisboutique seven-nightGreekcruiseexperience.Elysium, anelegantyachtdesignedtoreachthesmall, secretcovesandharbours,carriesjust48passengersandwilldeliveryoutosmall,less-visited cruiseportslikeMilos,SerifosandNaxos. Aboard,you’llbetreatedtodelicious meals and enjoyamenitieslike aspaandloungeareasto savour arefreshingbeveragewhilewatchingthe blueseaglideby.Youcanalsooptfor ayoga-

orgolf-focuseditinerary,perfectfor agroup getawaywithfriendsin adestinationtodream about.From$4400pp.elixir.cruises

OCEANIACRUISES

VenicetoRome

Setsailfor a20-nightadventureonthenewest andmoststylishvesselintheOceaniafleet, OceaniaVista.DebutinginMaythisyear,you’ll beamongthefirsttoexperiencethisshipasit takesyoufromVenicetoportslikeSplitin Dubrovnik,BariinItaly,andMykonosand KavalainGreece.Afteranovernightstayin Istanbul,yourjourneycontinueswith atripto Ephesusand adayinRhodesandSantorini beforeyourjourneyendsinAthens.Alongthe way,you’llenjoysomeofthebestdrinkingand diningatsea, withhighlightsincludingthree newrestaurantsandimmersivecocktail mixologyexperiences.From$12,928pp. oceaniacruises.com

AZAMARACRUISES

ItalyIntensive

IftoomuchItalyisneverenough,you’lllovethis 12-nightItaly Intensiveitinerary.YourItalian adventurebeginsinVenicebeforetheship travelstowell-knowndestinationslikeAmalfi andlesser-knowncruiseportslikeRavenna, whichhaspicturesquewineriesperfectfor aday trip.WhenyouvisitPortoferraio,don’t missthe opencablecarthattakesyoutothepeakofMount Capanne,theviewsarefabulous.You’llhave plentyoftimetoenjoyrenaissanceartandarchitecture,ancientruins,medievalcitadels,and culinarydelights.From$4493pp.azamara.com

CELEBRITYCRUISES

Italy,GreeceandCroatia

ThenewestshipintheCelebrityfleet,Celebrity Beyond,isdesignedtobringpassengerscloser totheirdestinations,withloadsofappealing outdoorspotstotakeintheMediterranean’s famousviews.Onthis10-nightround-tripsailing fromRome,you’lltravelthroughItaly,Greece andCroatiatosomeofthemostdesirable destinationsintheMediterranean,including Corfu,Dubrovnik,SplitandSicily.Celebrity Beyondis anewandimprovedversionofthe line’sEdgeclassships,withanappealingblend ofstylishdecorandinnovativemoderndesign. From$2889pp.celebritycruises.com

Cruising: Family »

Forall the family G

et the family together andcreate memoriestolast alifetimeon these cruises offering ports, excursions and onboard activitiesthat will keep your crew entertained.

With accommodation options to suit everyage and budget and enough dining options to keep even the fussiest diners in your family happy, these ships take the hassle out of planning the perfect multi-generational family getaway

CARNIVALCRUISELINES

Three-Night Getaway

On this short but sweet three-night round-trip “cruise to nowhere” from Sydney on Carnival Splendor,you’ll have timetomake the most of everythingonboard and enjoyquality time together. This affordable, family-friendly line offersplenty of entertainment for youngsters and the young at heart withfabulous waterslides (don’t leave thesetothe kids in your group, they’re lots of fun) and awaterpark for younger kids, dance lessons, pool games and dancing waiters in the dining room eachnight.Dive-in movies keep you cool, plusyou’ll get to watch some great flicks together. It’s easy to relax as there’s no need to dress to thenines on this casual ship. Carnival Splendor also sails to the South Pacific and the Great Barrier Reef if you would like to spend longer on board. From $380pp. carnival.com.au

PRINCESS CRUISES

Voyage of the Glaciers

PrincessCruises ships offer luxury for everyone, from youngsterstodiscerninggrandparents, and enough fun to keep all ages entertained. It doesn’t matter who’s in yourgroup, there are onshore excursions to suit different ages andfitness levels. On aseven-night Alaskacruise, you’ll explore Alaska’s “greatest hits”, includingscenic cruising, marvelling at Hubbard Glacier and spotting beavers and bears. Animal Planet and Discovery Channel-themed shore excursions, such as the Mendenhall Glacier and Whale Quest tour, are educational and make the most of Alaska’s scenery and wildlife. In the evenings, enjoy ameal togetherinthe maindiningroom, then snuggleunder ablanket and catch a movie under the stars while you nibble on complimentarypopcorn.From $720pp. princess.com.au

CELEBRITYCRUISES

Italian Riviera and France

CelebrityReflectionhas a laidback yet sophisticated onboardatmospherethat appeals to all ages, but it’s aparticularly good choice if you’re travelling with tweens and teens who like feelinggrown-up. This nine-night sailing fromBarcelona to Romeis also acrowd-pleaser with an overnightstay in La Spezia, the port closest to Pisa, so you can take aday trip and snap that classic photo of your family “holdingup” the world’s most famous leaningtower.

The fun doesn’t stoponthis port-intensive cruise, as you’ll also get to hit the beach in Nice, stroll through lavender fields in Provence and go in search of the world’s best pizza in Naples. On the ship, signature restaurants such as Sushi on Five andthe concept restaurantLePetit Chef, whichuses 3D table art to bringdishes to life, are suited to kids (and adults) who enjoydelicious foodand afun night out. From $1830 pp. celebritycruises.com

UNIWORLD

Splendours of Egypt and The Nile

Explore the wonders of Egyptona 12-night Uniworld Generationscruise that’s especially for

Photos/ Supplied

families and takes in all thehighlights,from the Temple of Luxortothe Valley of theKings.On thesespecial multi-generational cruises, family hostsshare their country with children andtheir parents,and there’s aGenerationsactivities programmetoconnect you withthe history, culture and people of Egypt. Think hands-on craft workshops with an Egyptiantheme,language classes and afamily-friendly football match with ateam of localkids.

It’s great spending time together but this cruise also allowsfor timeapart, withactivities like aYoungTravellers’ Table on some nights so kids can hang outwith their new friends andgrown-upsget to spend timetogether as well. From $10,320pp. uniworld.com

CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES

Northern Yasawa Islands

Package

Combine atropicalisland holiday with asmall ship, friendly crew, fun for your kids and some adultsonly time and you have amultigenerational cruise to remember. Any of the three-to seven-night cruises to the Mamanuca andYasawa Islands should be ahit. However, it’s hardto go past CaptainCook’s cruise-tour package that combines atwo-nightstay at the Radisson Resort in Denarau with afour-night cruise that ventures beyond the usual tourist hotspots and explores Fiji’s remote northern islands fromNavititoYasawa. Meals, transfers, glass bottom boat tours, snorkelling adventures and other activities such as visitstoschools and villages are included in yourfare. All youhave to do is soak up the sun and have fun together

From $565pp. captaincookcruisesfiji.com

EUROPEAN WATERWAYS

Scotland RiverCruise

Withits crowd-pleasing mix of dramaticscenery, myths andlegends, atmospheric castles and hearty food, Scotland is atop choice for amultigenerational cruise holiday on boarda luxury barge. Keep an eyeout for one of the world’s most

famousmythical creatures at LochNess,orsoak in the hot tub as agroup as you sail down the Caledonian Canal on thisfamily-friendly Scottish boat. This six-night all-inclusive journey also offers theopportunity to visit castles like Cawdor with its colourful gardens, watch afalconry demonstration and ridethe steam train from the Harry Potter movies.

Got six or more in your group?Chartering the barge comes with a1:1 staff ratio, the option to customise your itineraryand aprivatecabin for every family member. From $45,000for the entire barge. europeanwaterways.com

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Iceland and Norway to London

Three of Norwegian Cruise Line’s latest ships have the fastest slides at seaand are toppedwith multi-deckracetracks where older kids and adults can drive go-karts high above the ocean and younger kids can ride as passengers.Onthis nine-night cruise on NorwegianPrima, you’ll get to do it all, plus you’ll experience Iceland’s cascading waterfalls, pristine landscapes and wildlife on your way fromReykjavik to London.

There’s an impressive choice of cabins, including interconnecting and family staterooms that can be combined to create alarger space. Studio cabinsfor solo sailors arealso available if some family memberswouldprefer nottoshare. Diningranges from classy alacarte restaurants to the Indulge Food Hall,whichhas almost a dozen differentfood outlets. From $3100pp ncl.com.au

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC Wild Galapagos Escape

There’s no need to juggle your dates with this trip as every Wild Galapagos Escapedeparture is family-friendly, with naturalistsand experts on the Galapagos who lovesharing this natural wonderland with travellers of all ages. Grab the kids and join your guides for educational Zodiac adventures and kayaktrips that get closetothe region’s famouswildlife in an environmentally sensitive way. If you’re lucky, you might even go snorkelling with playful seals.

You’llalso visit a National Geographic-

Gettingthere is more than halfthe fun when families are on board withthe holiday, writes Tiana Templeman

Main: Looking outin Alaska with Princess Cruises; above, Uniworld will take families to Egypt

sponsoredbreedingfacilityforendangered Galapagosgianttortoises,whereyou’llmeetthe scientiststhenseetortoisesinthewild.From $17,000pp. natgeoexpeditions.com.au

ROYALCARIBBEAN

QueenslandCruise

Onthisseven-nightround-tripcruisefrom BrisbaneonQuantum ofthe Seas,youcantake inthetropicalsceneryandvisitpopularports likeAirlieBeachandCairns.Thefunneverstops withshoreexcursionssuchassnorkelling the GreatBarrierReefandexploringtheDaintree Rainforestandonboardactivitiessuchasa FlowRidersurfingsimulator,dodgemcars,and iFlyskydiving.Allthesethings,evenskydiving, aresuitableformostagesandabilities.

Forsomethinglessadventurous,yourfamily canridetheship’sNorthStarviewingcapsule andenjoy360-degreeviewswhileyou’re100m abovetheocean.Quantum ofthe Seashasmore than adozendiningoptions,fromhotdogswith thelottoItaliandishesatcelebritychefJamie Oliver’srestaurantandaninteractivedining restaurant,Wonderland,thatcombinesthe whimsyof AliceinWonderlandwithfabulous food.From$1055pp. royalcaribbean.co.nz

DISNEYCRUISELINE

BahamianCruisefromPortCanaveral

Whetheryou’retravellingwith alittleprincess, ateeninsearchofadventureor akidwho’s obsessedwithMarvelmovies,you’llfind activitiestosuitthemallon aDisneycruise.On athreenightround-tripcruisefromPortCanaveral, therearethemeddinners,charactermeet-andgreets,moviemarathonsandmore,from Frozen’smagicalcastlestothespaceactionof theStarWarsfilmsandinfinityandbeyond. Longeritinerariesareavailableaswell.

Ifyouandyourpartnerwant abreakfromall thekid-friendlyexcitement,thereareadults-only areasandrestaurantstoo.OnthenewDisney

Wish,there’s aMickey-themedAquaMouse watercoasteranda kids’clubwith aMarvel SuperHeroAcademy,StarWars-themedCargo BayandDisneyprincess-themed activities.From $1860pp. disneycruise.disney.go.com

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Make2023the year youdiscoverEuropeon a5-star,truly all-inclusiverivercruisein aclass of its own.Beimmersedin meaningfulandenriching experiencesas youexplorehistoriccastles and charmingvillages.IndulgeonyourluxuriousScenicSpace-Ship andenjoyarangeofincludeddining experiences. WithScenic,everythingistakencareoffor you,ingreatdetail.

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Cruising: Pacific Islands »

South Sea voyage

DUTCHTALLSHIP OOSTERSCHELDE

The Happy Islands

Set sail on the Oosterschelde, ahistoric Dutch sailingship, for an authentic tall ship adventure around the South Pacific. Builtin1917 as athreemasted cargovessel, the Oosterschelde now offers tall ship cruiseholidays,including a Darwin200 circumnavigation of the globe. This journey follows in the footstepsofCharles Darwin’s famous voyage and includes aninenight sectorthat holds the promise of stunning scenery and easy sailing through “the happy islands” of French Polynesia. With no fixed itinerary, youcan make the most of Tahiti’s idyllic weatherand see the best of this famous region, dropping anchor in one idyllic Tahitian bay after another. This uniquecruise experience includes all meals and ahighly experienced crew to help you (literally) learn theropes.

From $4700pp. dutchtallship.com

CUNARD

South Pacific

Board the elegantQueen Elizabeth in Sydney for aclassic 14-nightround-trip cruise. This is atraditional ship so it’s fitting this is atraditional itinerary with afocus on the South Pacific’s greatest hits like Suva and Lautoka in Fiji, Port Vila in Vanuatu, and Noumeaand the Isle of Pinesin New Caledonia.Gocasual and hit the beach in your boardshorts, jandals and swimmers duringthe day,then dress for dinner and makeanight of it on this elegant ship. There’s ballroom dancing everyevening and the option to treatyourself to speciality dining, spas and cocktails in one of the ship’s many bars as youenjoy the upmarket onboard atmosphere and whiteglove service.

From $3790pp. cunard.com

VIRGIN VOYAGES

Tasman Sea, Fiords &Ma¯ ori Shores

Virgin Voyages’ ResilientLadyisanall-new ship and promises anew takeoncruisingfor local sailors. Starting in Melbourne, this journey takes you to Tasmania before some relaxing(or party-packed) sea days on the way hometoNew Zealand for the fiords,Dunedin,Christchurch and Taurangabefore the shiparrives in Auckland. You’ll experience Virgin’s newest shipand all the latest tech, dining and entertainment that comes with it. If you wanttofeellikea celebrity,there areretro-styled Mega Rockstarsuites with guitars, aturntable and vinylrecords. Faresincludea basic beveragepackage, gratuities, Wi-Fi and fitness classes for maximum well-being, rejuvenation and fun.

From $2840pp. virginvoyages.com

CORALEXPEDITIONS

The Subantarctic &Chatham Islands

Chill out in acooler part of the SouthPacific for 16 nights as youexplore New Zealand’s remote Subantarctic islands. These naturally significant islands are Unesco World Heritagelisted for their abundant bird life, including

eight seabirds that breed nowhere else.Starting in Milford Sound, you’lljoin the experienced expeditionteam for onshore adventures included in the cost of your fare. Hike through fieldsofmegaherbs and tundra and encounter albatrosses, penguins, sea lions, rarebirds and marinelife. After aday spent exploringthe region’s natural wonders, you’ll be wined, dinedand warmonCoral Geographer. From $14,650pp. coralexpeditions. com.au

HOLLAND AMERICA

GrandAustralia &New Zealand

Voyage

This mega 94-night round-trip cruise from San Diego offersthe ultimate exploration of the South Pacific. Highlights include alate 11pm departure fromHonolulusoyou can makethe most of this popular Hawaiian destination and visitstolesser-knownports like Pago Pagoin Samoa,Komodo Island in Indonesia and Nuku’alofa in Tonga. You’ll also make multiple stopsinFiji andTahiti on your way to Australia’s east coast. After an overnightstay in Sydney, set sail towards New Zealand,then travelback the way you came, enjoying balmy sea days and more of the South Pacific’s tropical treasures. There are differentports to those you visited on the way over, includingtwo islands —Fakarava and NukuHiva —thateven the most experiencedcruisers haveprobably never been to.

From $26,520pp. hollandamerica.com

PONANT

New Caledonia to Micronesia

Embark on aluxury 16-night expeditioncruise from New Caledonia to Guam aboardPonant’s Le Solealand explore the heart of the remote islands of the South Pacific. Ateam of expert guides will accompany you through Micronesia, getting you to places off the beatentrack above

and below the water.With Zodiacsfor accessinghard-to-reach islands and snorkelling and divingequipment on board, you’ll be able to make the most of the extraordinary underwater life, reefs and sunken wrecks. This brand-new itinerary offers a refinedcruising experience withadventure at its heart and achancetoexplore lesser-known destinationsinthe South Pacific such as the Lamotrek and Ifalik Atollsand PulapIsland, which is surrounded by shipwrecks that offer spectacular divingopportunities.

From $14,845pp. ponant.com

P&O CRUISES

Solomon Sea Islands

Get ready for history, culture,reefs, tropical islands and sunshine as you journeyfrom Cairns to the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea on Pacific Explorer. This round-trip 10-night adventure includesHoniara, Gizo Island, Rabaul, KiriwinaIslandand thepristineConflict Islands. Notonly will you get to enjoy some of the best snorkellinginthe South Pacific but you’ll also have time to immerse yourself in the rich culture and history of the region. Pacific Explorer delivers when it comes to comfortand laid-back style withappealing included dining options, bars, lounges and sunset vistas. You’ll be abletoextend your tropical escape with an optional pre-orpostcruise stay in Cairnstoexperiencethe natural wonders of Tropical North Queensland as well From $930pp. pocruises.co.nz

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

South Pacific:Tahiti, Fiji, Moorea& Samoa

After an overnight stay in Papeete in Tahiti, island-hop through the South Pacific on your way back to New Zealand. Your cruiseship, Norwegian Spirit, is freshfrom amajor refurbishmentand comes with stylish cabins, restaurants, bars, lounges and entertainment. Alongthis voyage, you’ll visit the islands of French Polynesia and the CookIslands, plus Fiji, Western Samoaand New Caledonia, before the ship docks in Auckland. This itinerary is about palm trees,goldensands, crystal clear

PackyourloudestHawaiianshirt,find the perfect sunset spot andraise your tikimug to these great Pacific cruise itineraries, writes Tiana Templeman

Top: Set sail on the Oosterschelde, ahistoric Dutchsailingship; above, board Cunard's elegant Queen Elizabeth shipfor a14-night South Pacific round-trip cruise Photos/ Supplied

HollandAmerica’sGrandAustralia &NewZealandVoyageisa

94-nightround-tripcruise,which includes alatedeparturefrom Honolulu;right,CelebrityEdge offersluxurioussurroundsand facilitiesliketheMagicCarpet.

Photos/ GettyImages;Supplied

waterandsunsetdrinksatsailawaywitha picture-perfecttropicalview. From$4926pp.ncl.com.au

CELEBRITYCRUISES

SouthPacific Kickoffthestartof2024with aclassic10-night SouthPacificsojournfromSydney,takingin theislandsofNewCaledoniaandVanuatuwith ampleamountsofsand,clearbluewaterand sunshine.Oneofthebiggestplusses withthiscrowd-pleasingitinerary istheship,CelebrityEdge,which isnewtoourregion and offers adifferentexperienceforlocalcruiserswithluxurious surroundsandfacilitieslike theMagicCarpet.There’sa choiceofstylishly appointedcabins,specialitydiningandanexclusive suiteareaandrestaurant. Onthisitinerary,you’llhave fourseadaystoenjoyitall. From$2484pp. celebritycruises.com

PRINCESSCRUISES

Australia,Hawaii,Tahiti &SouthPacific HaveyourHawaiianshirtandtikimugprimed forthiswell-priced34-nightSouthPacificloop departingAuckland,andtakinginSydneyand Brisbane,theFijianislands,Samoa,Hawaii andTahiti.Thisround-tripcruiseonCoral Princesswilltakeyoutoallthepopular picture-perfectSouthPacificdestinationsin onetrip.You’llhaveampletimetosavoursea daysinthesunandtrythemultipledining, drinking,entertainmentandchill-outoptions onboard.Add adrinkspackageor aspeciality diningpackageandyou’resetforanevenbetter timeasyousailaroundthesetropicalwaters. From$10,145pp. princess.com

AZAMARA

Pacific MysteriesVoyage

SailingfromPerutoFrenchPolynesia,this 16-nightvoyageaboardAzamaraOnward travelstoEasterIsland,PitcairnIslandand Fakarava,MooreaandPapeeteinFrenchPolynesia.Explorethefamousmoai,themonolithic humanfiguresofEasterIsland,andPitcairn Island,whereyoucanimmerseyourselfinthe historyoftheMutinyontheBountytale.From here,you’lltravelthroughthe islandsofTahiti. Tempting shoreexcursionsawaitoryou couldsimplylieundera palmtreeandsoakupthe sunbeforeyourjourney comestoanendin Papeete.Onboardthe newestadditiontothe Azamarafleet,you’ll havedrinksincludedin yourfareandplentyof barstoenjoythemin. From$6121pp.azamara. com

CARNIVALCRUISES

SouthPacific

Stockup onlocalcraftsatLifou,thelargestof theLoyaltyIslandsofNewCaledonia,orgofor awalktonearbyJinekBaywhereyoucan snorkelat apristinereefon awell-priced,roundtrip,seven-nightcruisefromBrisbaneonCarnivalLuminosa.NumbersatLifouIsland’s protectedmarineareaarecappedwithonlya certainnumberofpeopleallowedinthewater at atimesoyouwon’thavetofightthecrowds toenjoythefishandcoral.Yournextstopistiny MysteryIslandwithitsquintessentialtropical vibe,completewithpalmtreesandcoconuts with astrawinthem.After adayinNoumea, yourshipreturnstoBrisbane.From$595pp. carnival.com.au

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Cruising: Expedition »

Yournext adventure

Natural wonders andpinch-me moments are what expedition cruising is all about. Exploring places no ordinary ship can get to with ateamofonboard experts, and other passengerswho are as excited as you are about being there.

Gazing at soaring peaks in Patagonia, walking alongsideking penguins in Antarctica or snorkellingabove World War II wrecks in the Solomon Islands are just some of the incredible things you can do on theseepic expedition voyages.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS

Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falklands

Welcome aboard National Geographic’s Resolution, oneofthe newest expedition ships afloat, for an unforgettable 23-night journey to theSouth Atlantic and beyond. From the port of Ushuaia in Argentina, you’ll set sail for Antarcticawhere you’ll visit vast kingpenguincolonies,and the Falklands to discover the islands’history and albatrosscolonies.With an itinerary that includes close encounters with an abundance of arctic wildlife,this trip is one worth saving for On the ship’s deck,there’saninfinity hot tub and glass igloos where you can sleep in acosy bed, taking in the region’s naturalwondersby the light of the clear night sky.

From $43,400pp. natgeoexpeditions.com.au

AURORA EXPEDITIONS

Patagoniaand Chilean Fjords

Aurora Expeditions’ certified Climate Neutral ship SylviaEarle doesn’t just take you around the fjordsand coastlineofChile, it also comes with plush cabins, gourmetmeals and aCitizen Science Centre.Sail through the legendary Beagle Channel, marvelatthe snow-covered peaks of rugged Patagonianmountains and take aZodiaccruise through fjords while dolphins, penguins and seals gambol in the water beside you. On this14-nightcruise,thereare two days for hikingTorres del PaineNational Park, which is famous for its towering granite cliffs andjawdropping landscapes.

From $15,500pp. auroraexpeditions.com.au

HERITAGE EXPEDITIONS

Asian Island Odyssey

JoinNew Zealand-based HeritageExpeditions for a27-nighttropical island-hopping adventure, departing from Osakaand passing through the Japanesearchipelago, Taiwan,the Philippines andIndonesia before yourjourney endsin Darwin.You’ll immerseyourself in Japan’s rich history, culture and cuisine and explore multiple portcitiesand islands beforearrivinginTaiwan to discover its modern architecture, art and history. As you travelonwards to the Philippines, get yourtogs, snorkel and diving gear ready and swim with mantarays and whale sharks.You’ll also havetimetoexplore clear waters and rich ecosystems surrounding some of the Philippines’ many islands, before arriving in Indonesia for more cultural exploration andocean adventuring.

From $29,925pp. heritage-expeditions.com

CORAL EXPEDITIONS

Forgotten Islands of Papua New Guinea Board Coral Expeditions’charter flight fromCairns and begin a12-night expedition on Coral Adventurer, cruising through the remote islands of PapuaNew Guinea to explore villages untouched by time. Encounter the ancient tribe at Ataliklikun Bay and watch the mesmerisingfire dance of the Baining people, sail to thevolcanic island of Rabauland snorkel above an intactJapanese Zero fighter plane in the shallow watersofDeboyne Lagoon. You’ll also seetraditional canoe-building in the remote Laughlan Atoll, hike to the Dei Dei hot springs and meetvillagersinthe Trobriand Islands. At the end of the cruise, the ship docks in Cairns where your adventure began.

From $10,900pp. coralexpeditions.com

AQUA EXPEDITIONS

Raja Ampat Cruise

Step aboard the luxurylong-rangeexpedition yacht Aqua Blu for aseven-night journeyaround the limestone karst islands,sheltered lagoons, baysand beaches of the Raja Ampatarchipelago in Indonesia. Aqua Blu offers astylish, intimate expedition experience with adash of adventure. Grab akayak or head off on aguided snorkelling adventurearoundthe region’s reefs and lagoons. Endthe day with alate afternoon picnic on a secluded beach, with wine and canapes and no more than 30 other guests

From $13,886pp. aquaexpeditions.com

PONANT

New Zealand’sSouth Island and Chatham Islands

This eight-nightcruise from Wellington to Dunedin on the luxurious Le Laperouseisanadventurous culinarytourdeforce. Sailinginpartnership withRelais &Chaˆteauxand local chef Norka Mella Munoz, there will be gala dinners,culinary demonstrations and cookingclasses in addition to thenatural beautythis regionisfamous for Explore the Marlborough Sounds,Kaiko¯ura and the Chatham Islands by Zodiac, then sail back to the mainland,with avisit to Akaroa on the way to Dunedin.With two sea days,you’ll also have timefor the dining discoveries onboard.

From $9700pp.ponant.com

QUASAR EXPEDITIONS

In the StepsofPirates and Darwin

This luxury seven-night Galapagos adventure aboard a32-passenger yachtisa rare experience,not only for the destination but also for the journey.The Galapagos,aremote archipelago of 18 islands and more than 100 smallislets, have been aUnesco World Heritage Site since 1978. They’re ahaven for marineand wildlife and were the catalyst for Darwin’s theory of evolution, so it’s fittingyour yacht is also called the Evolution. Following in Darwin’s footsteps, you’ll swim, snorkel and explore the islands withonly ahandful of like-minded guests, accompaniedbyguideswith more than 15 years of experienceinthe Galapagos.

From $11,590pp. quasarex.com

TRUE NORTH Solomon Sojourn

Take in stunning tropical islands, reefs, culture and history on a10-night islandadventure on a luxuryyacht aroundthe Solomon Islands. Featuringanexhilarating mix of Solomon Islands’ culture, coralreefs,WWII history and classicSouth Pacific vistas, this expedition includes aflight from CairnstoKavieng,the capitalofthe PapuaNew Guinean provinceof New Ireland, in the cost of the fare. After spending afew days sailingaround Papua New Guinea, you’ll reach the Solomons and experience highlights like an overnight stayalongside one of the world’s largest lagoons. True North caters for all your usualexpedition needs, plusyou can book aflight in the ship’s onboard helicopter.

From $32,450pp. truenorth.com.au

Smaller shipsand unique journeys are the hallmarksof expedition cruising,writes

Tiana Templeman

Main:True North is offering an islandadventure on a luxury yacht around the Solomon Islandsand Papua New Guinea; above, aroom on the CoralAdventurer. Photos /Supplied

Pearls of the Pacific W

Acruise to PitcairnIslandand surrounding motu is ameetingofbeauty,historyand cultures mostly unseen by theaverage visitortoFrench Polynesia, writes Helen

van Berkel

hat were theythinking, those 27 souls, as that blue smudge on the horizon resolved into green slopes and a rocky inhospitable coast?

Standingatthe rail of the Aranui 5asitberthed in Bounty Bay on Pitcairn IslandinFrench Polynesia on an early summer’smorning, my thoughts were with those menand women on board the eponymous ship that on that day in 1790 also dropped anchor here

The story of the mutiny on the Bounty has resonated for centuries in booksand in films. Led by Fletcher Christian,sailors angered by what they sawas cruel and brutal treatment at the handsofCaptain WilliamBligh, took commandofthe Bounty on April 28, 1789.

They set Bligh and his supportersadrift in the ship’s boat, grabbed 18 Tahitian men and women (willingness debated)plus ababy —and fled.

Pitcairn Islandwas often used by Pacific Islandpeoples seekingstone for toolsand weapons but it was wronglymarked on British maps: it was the perfect hideout.

Less than 50sqkmofdense bush and immense rocky outcrops, Pitcairn is still hometothe descendants of the mutineers and their Tahitian companions.

The Aranui5 plies thewaters of French Polynesia, delivering freighttothe far-flung islands but also offering aluxuryboutiqueexperience for passengers.

Like the Bounty, we hadset outfrom Tahiti but our five-dayjourney was in far greater comfort and speed— and withfar less chance

of endingupona gallows.

Our first stop was Anaa Island, atiny scrap of reef remnantthat is home to about 1000 souls. Many of them were in church when we arrived on Sunday. Their singingdrew us —and afew of the neighbourhood dogs curled up in the shadeofthe porch —into peek at the beautiful vaulted ceiling.

Fast boats tookusacross thelagoonand we arced aroundgobbetsofrock that once were mountains, to the Pito Ogoogolavatube.Some of the stronger swimmers reckonthey touched the bottom,about 10m down. But Iwatched thereef fish from above,swirling in the currentaroundthe tube.

Keen paddlers eyed up a12-seater outrigger canoepulleduponthe beach and afteran approach to the villagers and hurried conversations among passengers,wehad a crew to takeitout on the lagoon.We quickly got the rhythm,thanks to somecompetitive outrigger paddlers

from Hawaii in the group, digging deep in unison andswinging our paddles from the outsidetothe centreof the vessel. Icould see the incredibly clear waters are also abreeding ground for sea cucumbers. Despitetheir unappetising appearance, theyare both adelicacy and avaluable export crop Singers also greeted us in Hikueru about

200km away —only this time their tunes were aimed at us. It was aschool dayfor the island’s dozen children,and theneatly presented students sang us avariety of songs in French, Tahitianand English

For manyofthe scattered isles of French Polynesia, ship visits areanoccasion worthy of pausing theday’slabours andpullingout guitars and ukeleles. In the village of Ikitake on the Amanu atoll even the mayor linedup on the dock as the Aranui’s barges brought us ashore.

Small children in traditional headwearand cloth led us away from the wharf for aperformance. The Aranui’s 120-odd passengers almost outnumbered the locals —fewer than 200 live on Amanu. Then they produced tables groaning with local produce,including apopular dish of raw fresh-caught fish in coconut milk

Atour of the village showed us churches, a town hall, aschool and healthclinic.Closer to the coast was acemetery and an old lighthouse. The latter was asquatplatform on which the villages would pile dry vegetation and set alight to warnincoming ships.

French Polynesia is madeupoffive archipelagos, and from the Tuamotus we sailed to the Gambier islands, where I fell in love with its biggest island, Mangareva, and its main village of Rikitea

About1500 people live on the island —many, judging from the beautifully maintained gardens and homes on our island exploration, deeply houseproud. Theygenerously shared their garden produce,laying out trays of breadfruit, coconut, mango, dragonfruitand other treats to sustain us as we walked around the island.

Churches again list high among the village’s attractions.StAnne’s —painted the blueofthe Mangarevan flag —isused onlyevery few monthsbut is outshone by the masterpiece that is St Michael’s Cathedral. Built of coral between 1839 and1848, the churchwas extensively renovated in 2012 and boasts amother-of-pearl

Top: Aranui 5calling in at Anaa IslandinFrench Polynesia; above, an Amanu Islandlocal in traditional headdress

altarpiecethatmustbeuniqueintheworld.

ItisthelargestchurchintheSouthPacific andtheworkerswhohelpedbuilditsoimpressed theCatholicChurchthattheyalsotravelledto TahititohelpbuildtheCathedralofNotreDame andtheVenusPointbeacon. Ahotwalkaway upthehillisthetomb ofJosephGregorioII,the lasthighchiefoftheseislands.

OurguidetellsusJosephgenerouslydonated allofhislandstotheCatholicChurch.The churchusedthemtobuild aconventandanother churchatthefootofMtDuff(Auorotiniinthe Mangarevanlanguage)namedinhonour of the firstmissionaryshiptolandhere.Boththe churchandtheconventarenowpicturesque ruins,quietlycrumblinginthePolynesiansun.

Aswellascateringfortourists,Mangarevans maketheirmoneyfarmingandsellingblack pearls.Farmsdotthebaysthatcurvearoundthe coastline.Thelustrousbeads havebeenfarmed sincethe1960s,valuedfortheirvariedshades, rangingfrommistygreystomidnightblack.

Bynow,lifeaboardtheAranuihadsettledinto aneasyrhythm.Thedaysstartwith arefreshingwalkaroundthe ninthdeckand abuffet breakfastfeaturing Frenchfareaswellasa bigselectionoflocal fruit. Ashore journeyfollows, andwereturnfor alunchserved withFrench wines.Theafternoonmayhavea lecture,ora musicordance lessonor amovie Mutinyonthe Bounty waspopular. Ienjoyedgrabbinga coffeeinthedeckfive loungeandtalkingto whomeverelsefeltthesame. Atdusk,we’dgatherfor

cocktailsonthedeckandmusicwiththeonboard bandtowatchthesunsetoverthedarkeningdisk ofthesea.Dinnerwasalwaysanimpressive affair.Afterdark,westeamedonunder afirmamentofstars.Thearraywasonlydimmedwhen thefull moonsailedamongthem.

Moreenergeticpassengerswouldpartyinto thenightinthekaraokelounge.

Amongthemanyinterestingpeopleonboard wastapuclothexpertandNorfolkIslander PaulineReynolds,whogaveustalksaboutthe womenoftheBounty.Itwasherfirsttripto Pitcairnwhich,shetoldme,hadalwayspreoccupiedherthoughts.

Forher,thiswassomewhatofa returntoher ancestrallands:sheisthegreat(timessix) granddaughterofFletcherChristian.

Today’sislandersarehercousinsandwhen IaskedherhowshefeltaswenearedPitcairn shesaidshecouldn’twaittosetfootontheland whereherfamilystorybegan.

Aseawallgaveusprotectionthemutineersdid notgetfromthePacific’sswellsandislanders linedupwithquadbikestotakeus totheAdamstownvillageplaza uptheHillofDifficulty. Theconcreteroadis theonlysealedroadon theislandand Icould see howitgotits nameas Ioptedto walkitssharp curvestothevillageplaza,where stallsoffered woodcarvings andother souvenirsfor sale.Prideofplace istheBounty’s anchor,a rare survivingpartofthe shipthatthemutineers burnedinBountyBay. Theship’sBibleisstillin themuseumbehindthetown

AnaerialviewofPitcairnIsland; below, Mangarevapearlfarm; farmedsincethe1960s,thegems arevaluedfortheirvariedshades.

hall. Ijoined awalkingtourtovisitJohnAdams’ grave,theonlyoneofthemutineerswhosefinal restingplaceis known.Bythe timeofthefirst contactafterthemutiny,in1808,hewastheonly survivoroftheBounty.Thenearbyisland cemetery,however,isfullofnamesfromthe Bountydescendants:Christian,Mills,Young.

Ourguidealsopointedouttheisland’sjail —theonlyreferencemadetothe2004sexabuse trialontheisland.

Fewerthan70peoplestillliveonPitcairn— theschoolhasclosedbecausethereareno children —andallpitchintoruntheirown society.Ourguideon aquadbiketourofthe islandwasDennisChristian —whoisalsothe postmaster.Theentireislandisnavigableon footbutitissteep,hotanddustysowepaid aboutUS$70($112)eachtorideincushioned comfortonthebackofthequad.Leanforward, he’dorderaswepoweredupthesteepslopes. Asmallreddustcloudrosebehindusaswe visitedtheruggedrocksofStPaul’sPooland onwardstotheisland’shighestpointwherea signrevealsjusthowisolatedPitcairnis:Tahiti is2325kmaway,Wellington5333km.

WesetoutonfootinsearchofMissT,the Galapagostortoisewholivesinsolitarysplendouronthewestsideoftheisland;wedidnot findherbut Iheardthatonecoupleonboard weresuccessful.

Theentireislandisnavigableonfootdespite itssteeppathsandheat.

TheAranuiisoneofthefewcruiseshipsto beabletolandpassengersontheisland:it carries amaximumof260passengersandwe watchedsmuglyfromPitcairn’scliffs and coves as afarlargercruiseshipcouldonlycirclethe island.

Asthegreenslopesandrockyinhospitable coastofPitcairnrecededto abluesmudgeon thehorizoninourwake, IaskedReynoldshow shefeltsteppingashoreontheisland:“Itwas afeelingoffamiliaritydeepwithinmybones,” shesaid.

“Itwas awonderful,beautiful,happytime.” Thatitwas.

Checklist PITCAIRN ISLAND

GETTINGTHERE

AirTahitiNuifliesdirect fromAucklandAirportto Faa’aInternationalAirport (PPT)onthemainisland ofTahiti. airtahitinui. com/nz-en

DETAILS

Aranui 5willnextvisit PitcairnIslandfrom October7-17,2023.Next year’sdepartureis February17-27. Aranuiisoffering10per centoffall2024cruises bookedbyMarch31, reducingthepriceofthe 2024Pitcairncruiseto $9208pptwinshareina stateroom(usually $10,161pp).

Formoreinformationorto book,visit aranui.com

ONLINE tahititourisme.nz/en-nz

Photos/ LionelGouverneur

Cruising: Expedition »

among albatrosses

‘More sex and violence than aTarantino movie': Simon Wilson discoversawild world of natural wonders on an expediti

Wehad our first penguin experience in Carnley Harbour, latitude 50.84 in the Auckland Islands. There it was, ahoiho, watching us in our Zodiacs from the rocky foreshore. We cruised closer, dodging the long thick drifts of kelp flowing up through the emerald clear water, and the penguin jumped down afew rocks, giving us abetter view.

It posed, flippers outstretched, waddled alittle to the right and posed again, waddled back, turned threequarters away and looked back at us over its shoulder.

Straightdown the camera lenses. The photographers had ameltdown.

It’s not every day you get sunshine and agentle breeze on Carnley Harbour. The sealing vessel the Grafton was shipwrecked here, 160 years ago almost to the day of our visit, and the survivors held on for 18 miserable months before finally managing to build aboat seaworthy enough for them to rescue themselves.

Later, at asmall island in the Snares, we had our best penguin experience.Crested penguins, this time, clustered in their hundreds along the

rock shelves on the leeward side, hopping their way up steep slopes into the shrubby bush above, hopping down for aswim, or just hanging. Then, as if at some secret signal, one jumps into the water. Others waddle down to the edge and follow, and now there’s awhole flow as the middle of the massed group empties into the ocean and all the others hop along behind.

They swim afew metres off our starboard side, floating like ducks on the surface of the heaving sea.And then the same thing: one dives, others follow, within seconds they’re all gone. Half aminute passes, or maybe it’s only seconds. And almost all at once, there they are again, a couple of metres to port, 50 or more of them, all bobbing along.

The Snares rise sheer from the sea on their exposed southern side, tempting sailors to their doom with cliffs of granite and the surf raging beneath. Here and there great drifts of rubble have fallen away and lie strewn into the ocean.

Fur seals sleep alone, flopped onto whatever little bit of flattish rock they can find. As our Zodiac glides past, they wake from their sun-drenched slumber, arch their necks to get abetter view, and

subside. They don’t care about us.

We’d sailed due south from Bluff, just before New Year, 110 passengers and 90 crew on the Heritage Adventurer, a“boutique” cruise ship devoted to environmentaltourism. Bound for Campbell Island, the Auckland Islands and the Snares, all part of New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands, and then, in part 2ofthe trip, heading up to Fiordland.

The first evening on the aft deck was filled with albatrosses and little Cape petrels, wheeling from side to side in the slipstream, sprinkling their magic, playing in the air.

Then we were into the night, with such high rolling seas that we lay in bed, listening to the groaning and the creaking, waiting in astate of nervous thrill for the next thump as the ship crested another giant wave before crashing back down into the ocean on the other side.

At Campbell Island we put on our wet weather gear —not so much for the weather as for protection from the spray in the Zodiacs —and climbed into our muck boots. Avery superior form of gumboot.

We clambered through bush and met our first megaherbs. In an ecosystem defined by the storms that roar up from Antarctica, you’d expect everything growing to be small. But on “the Subs” there’s ashrub with giant pink pompoms on woody stalks that is, say the botanists who know these

Look out for crested penguins at the Snares.

Photo /Steve Bradley

the albatrosses

Thenthey’reaway.Wingsstretchedwidenow, sweepingalongtheslope,upthevalleyandover thelipofthecliff,hangingandsoaringinendless majesty.Theydon’tseemtomove amuscle:an albatrossontheupdraughtuseslessenergythan itwouldsittingonthesea.

Butwhentheycomeclumpingintoland,more oftenthannottheygetitwrongandhavetogo roundagain.

Pitythepeoplewhotriedtolivehere.

Archaeologicalevidencesuggeststhere werePolynesiansettlementsfromthetime ofthegreatvoyagesofthe13thcentury.Much later,BritishsettlerscametoAuckland Island’s PortRoss,formerlyknownasSarah’sBosom, luredbythepromiseof a“mildandtemperate climate”and“extensiveplainscovered withbeautifulgrass”.

Itwasalllies.Thereweren’t evenanyseals:they’dbeen wipedoutandthere weren’tmanywhalesleft, either.Onewomanshot herbrotherin afury; thedoctorwas adrunk whohadtobelocked up.There’sstill asmall cemetery,wheresome ofthegravesbelongto children,butno buildingsatall.Wewalk downtheremainsof streetsin agloomyforest oftwisted,windsweptrata. Thewildweathernever stopped.

Thereweremanytwitchersonour boat,intheirhappyplacewiththeirhugecamera lenses.Andwhywouldn’ttheybe?Atleast11per centoftheworld’sentirepopulationofseabirds breedintheSubsand120differentspecieshave beenspottedthere.Therearealso15known speciesofendemiclandbirds,including asnipe discoveredonlyin1997.

Othersonboardcameforthewrecksandpeered hopefullyattherockswheretheshipshadrun aground.Wehadbotanybuffsandhistorynuts andotherswhojustwantedtoexperiencethiswild andwonderfulcorneroftheworld.

expeditiontoNewZealand’sremoteSubantarcticIslands

things, amemberofthecarrotfamily.

Also,spreadthroughouttheislands,cabbages thatdon’tlooklikecabbagesandrhubarbthat’s notlikerhubarb,hebesyouvaguelyrecognise,tree daisies,giantandbrilliantlycolouredgentians. Andorchids,whichhaveresistedthetrendto supersizeandsproutdelicatelyamongthemosses. Norocks:it’sallpeatunderneath,sowhenyou fallover,there’snothingtobashyourselfonand thegroundisslightlyspongy.It’slike alandscape inventedforsomesci-fimovie:familiar,sortof, butunlikelytobethisplanet.

Andaboveallthis,highontheblusteryslopes ofthegloriouslymisnamedMtHoney,the albatrossesarenesting.Yousee asplotchofwhite acrossthehillsideandyouknowitcan’tbe asheep, therearenosheep,butitseemsalmostasbigas one.

There’sanother,andanother,andnowyou realisetherearehundredsofthem,nestingall aroundintheirbowlsofflattenedtussockand soaringoverhead.Southernroyals,Campbell mollymawks,black-browedandwhite-capped mollymawks,even arareAntipodeanalbatross.

Upclose,thesizeofthesebirdstakesyourbreath away.Theystarepastus,unmoving,withtheir glassyeyesandfiercebrows,butjustsittingthere isnotalways awinningstrategyforalbatrosses: itmakesthemeasytokill.Humansknewit,in

Checklist

THE SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS

GETTINGTHERE HeritageExpeditions assembles passengers in Queenstownand Invercargillfor abustripto theshipwhichdeparts fromBluff.

DETAILS heritage-expeditions.com

Main:As apassengerofHeritage Expeditions'Subantarcticcruise, youmightseeBuller'salbatross; above,admirethegentianson EnderbyIsland;below,daretotake theplunge.

timespast,andmiceknowitnow.

ThemicearrivedonCampbellIslandwithan intrepidbutidioticfarmingexperimentlast century.Theyattacknestingalbatrosses byscamperinguptheirbodies, scalpingthemandeatingtheir brains.

Sorry. Imentionit becausetheMaukahuka

PestFreeAuckland

Islandprojectisworking hardtomakethese islandpredator-freeand itdesperatelyneeds donations.

TheSubsare aUnesco WorldHeritageSiteand ateverybeachandon everytrackthereisnota singlepieceofrubbish.DoC controlsthevisitornumbers andeachvisitorpays afeethat helpswiththepredatorcontrol:it’s pricedintoyourcruiseticket.

Fromtimetotime,aswehunkerdownonthe steepslopes,analbatrosswillstandup,spreadits wingsandtake astepintothewind.Wingscrooked, headlookingabout;thelegspaddlinghard,like ruddersintheair,gettingthetrajectoryright.

Thecaptainwas ataciturnFinnwhostruggles alittlewithhisjokesbutwarmedmanyhearts bykeepinghisbridgeopen24/7.Itwassoexciting tostanduptherewatchingthespraysmashinto thewindows.

Theguideswerescientists,conservationists andadventurers,eachofthemwithtalestotell aboutthefloraandfauna,thegeologyand geography,thehistoryandthemagicoftheplace. Theiron-boardlecturesweresplendid. Andthe biosecuritytheyenforcedontheboatwas brilliantlycomprehensive:everydaybefore settingout,wescrubbedeveryshoesoleandbit ofvelcroinourgearwithtoothbrushes;onevery returntherewasbootwashingandmore scrubbing.

Therewerepolarswims: avery quickjump,gaspandshout,and out.Everycabinhad awindow, ateverymealtherewere mountainsoffoodand mostdaystherewere threeexpeditionsto choosefrom: aserious tramp, ashorterwalk and acoastal explorationina Zodiac.Youcouldgo alloutonedayandtake iteasythenext,andon bothyou’ddiscover somethingspecial. Nothingwasquiteas specialasEnderbyIsland, whereHeritagebossAaron Russpromisedwewouldsee “moresexandviolencethanina Tarantinomovie”.Hewastalkingaboutsealions. ItwasanotherfinedayandSandyBaywas packedwiththeendangeredNewZealandspecies.

TheSnares AucklandI MacquaireI

CampbellI Southern Ocean

Invercargill StewartI/ Rakiura

Dunedin NZ

Photos /SteveBradley

Cruising: Expedition »

Continuedfromp25

They’darrivedinlatespring,convergingfrom aroundthe SouthernOceanand“haulingout” ofthewaterfor agoodsleep.Well,sortof.In betweensleeping,themalesrearupandbash ateachother,reachingwiththeirhorrifying gaping mouthstotrytosinktheirviciously jaggedteethintoeachother’snecks.

Thissorts out whichofthemwillbecomethe season’sdominantbulls,whocorral abunchof femalesintoaharem.Thesizedifferenceis immense:malescanweighupto450kgwhile femalesdon’tgrowlargerthanabout160kg.

Meanwhile,thefemalesgivebirth.Very shortlyafter,thebullsimpregnatethemagain, in aprocessthatgoesonforever,althoughsea lions,likestoatsandkangaroos,practice“embryonicdiopause”:thepregnancydoesn’tdevelopuntillater.

Thebullsguardtheirharemsandthefemales trytoguardtheirpupsagainstmalesrandomly crushingthem.Theothermaleshangabout lookingforsomethingtodo:another fight, achancetosneakpastthebull, achancetochase afemaleintothesea. Packsofthemdothat,sometimes drowningthehaplessnewmother.

Dotheyshowus theawfulnaked truthaboutourmammalianlives, oraresealionstheverythingwe haveevolvednottobe?

Sealionscanfloptheirwaykilometresinlandandtheyoftendo: defeatedmales drivenaway fromthe group;femalesandtheirpupsseeking sanctuaryfromit.

You’ll be photographing afieldof megaherbsandanangryblackmonsterwill

suddenlyrearupinfrontofyou.

Ifyouthinkwehavenolargeand dangerouswildanimalsinthis country,youhavenotmet asealion.

Thewonderfulthing about Enderbyisthatyoucanescapeall that.Throughthegreatdriftingforestsoftherata,overtheplainsof megaherbsbeyond,on aboardwalkthat takesyourightacrosstheislandtothetops ofvastcliffsabovetheopenocean,whereyou

discoverthelightly mantledsootyalbatross.

Gracefulandcolouredalloverinsoftluxuriousgreys,theyhangandsoar,likeeveryother albatrossinflight,buthere,theydoitinpairs andevenintriplets.

Inthemidstofthisstupendousscenery,these beautifulbirdsseemlostintheexhilarationof theirdance,rightthereinfrontofyouandover yourhead,andyougettowatch.

Comingsoon:Part 2— Fiordlandfromthesea

Cruising: NewZealand » Backyard

bounty

Competitivepricing,out-of-this-worldlocalexperience, andinnovativetechnologymakecruisingourownbackyard ahassle-freeexperience,writes JimBirchall

Favouriteeventscanalsobebookmarked. Personally,myfavouritefeatureofthemedallionwasthedevicerecognitionthatunlocked mycabindooras Iapproachedfromthe hallway.Greatforsecurity.

ThereareplentyofincludedandextrachargediningoptionsonMajesticPrincess, including acafe,pizzeria,buffetandbistro,as wellasmoreformaloptionsforlunch and dinner.There’sFrenchflairatBistroSurLa Mer(Iwaspleasantlysurprisedbytheescargot starters),Harmony,whichre-interprets Cantonesefavouritestosuit aWesternpalate andSteakHouseCrownGrillthatserves exceptionalsurfandturf.

Thereareseveralbarsandcocktaillounges bothpoolsideandbelowdeckforthoselooking tounwindafter adayofsightseeing.Guests canresearch,chooseandbooktheirshore excursionsthroughtheMedallionClassappor onthePrincesswebsiteatthetimeofbooking.

OuritineraryincludedvisitstoRotorua’s historicPolynesianPools,Paengaroa’s Te PukeTruffles,anaction-packedday triparoundWellingtonand,in

Picton, an unexpected quick triptophotographthe steamtrainMarlboroughFlyer.The huffingandpuffing ofits1915locomotivePasschendaele madeitappear almostsentient.

Fromthere,we boarded awater taxisoakingupthe eyecandythatis theMarlborough Sounds.

Glidingthrough fairytaleTory Channel, we arrivedonanislandthat ishometoArapawaBluePearls andHomestead,runbyMikeand AntoniaRadon.Thetripincludeda tourof theirpaua-growingfacility,anexplanation of thelifecycleofthepauaanditspearlproduction,aswellas afascinatinginsightinto land-basedaquaculture.

After avisittotheshopwhereacavalcade ofpearljewelleryissoldandshippedaround theworld,weweretreatedbyMiketoa lunch ofexquisitelycookedpauathatwouldturn even aseafoodscepticinto abeliever.

Emergingfromthepandemic,publictourismcampaignschallenged Kiwisto“dosomethingnew”.But whatwould apost-CovidNew Zealandoffer alocal holidaymaker?

Being a45-year-oldmalesolotraveller, Iwas certainlyintheminorityamongthemostly older,couplecrowd,but Ineverfeltaloneamong themorethan2000passengersontheMajestic Princess, avisuallystriking“smartship” originallybuiltfortheChinesetouristmarket andnowservicingAustraliaandNewZealand inthesummermonthsbeforemakingitsway toNorthAmerica.

Therewas someinitialtrepidationwhenI joinedtheshipinAuckland.Giventhepredicted roughseas,thefact Ioncegotsickona floating restaurantdidn’tfillmewithconfidence.

Worrysubsidedwhen Ilearnedfromoneof thepoliteandhelpful1000-pluscrewthatthe shipwasfittedwithstate-of-the-artstabilisers effectiveenoughtosettlemotionsicknesssuffererswhowouldusuallyrelyon ahandfulof Fisherman’sFriendstonegotiateseatravel.

Ithencompletelyimmersedmyselfinthe spectacularandgenerouslyproportionedcabin (whichwasactually amini-suite)before aship’s orientationwhichincluded avisittothe onboardcasino,high-endshops,thermalsuite “TheEnclave”,andthetopdecks.There,a

wholebuffetfloorawaited(includedinthesail package),aswellascruiseshipstapleslikepools andspas, a(free)icecreambar, askywalk,chilloutareasand a“bigger-than-Ben-Hur”outdoor superscreenplayingthelatestmoviesand sports.

Theship’ssizecouldmeanpotentiallyspendingsometimefeelingyourwayaround,however,navigatingwasseamlessthankstoan ingenioussmartdevicewornbyallpassengers aspartofPrincess’MedallionClassexperience.

Thispersonaliseddeviceisworneither aroundtheneckoron awristband.Its featuresallowpassengerstofindtheir way aroundtheship,havefoodand drinksdeliveredtowhereverthey are,andlocateothersonboard.The medallionislinkedtopassengers’ shipaccountwhichpreventsany nastysurprisesondisembarkation,anditevenremembers previousandpopularorders.

Itsaccompanyingappallows youtouploadpassportinformation,take asecurityphoto,andfill outallcruisedocumentsthusexpeditingtheboardingprocess.

Youcanalsoviewalltheonboard events,whichincludespectacular musicals,DJs,dancing,karaoke,and wellnessandmindfulnessseminars.

Checklist

PRINCESSCRUISES

DETAILS

Formoreinformationand tobook,gotoprincess. com/learn/cruisedestinations/australiacruises

Christchurchwasnext,andafterdockingat Lytteltonon acloudless34Cday,weboarded abusfor ahighlightstouroftheGardenCity. Thespectacularweathermeanttheevening wasspent on thePrincess’upperdecks overlookingLyttelton absorbingVitaminD (andcocktails)andadmiringtheskillsoflowflyingpilots,hangglidersandwhatseemedlike hundredsofboardsailorsandjetskiers.

In aflash,itwasover,andonthe penultimatenightonboard,thecaptainseta coursefortheEdinburghoftheSouth.Theship wastocarryontoAustraliabutforme,this wouldbemylastportofcallbeforereturning tomyreallife.

Myperceptionoftherealitiesofcruisinghad beenshapedbyCaptainStubing,cruisedirectorJulie,andIsaacthesmilingbartender.

Theglamourandfunoftheindustry portrayedbythe LoveBoat isnottoo faroffthe mark.

Sailingon ashipliketheMajesticPrincess,whichaffordsso manyluxuries,meansthevessel itselfcan,onitsown,bea destination.GoingtosleepenvelopedinEgyptiancotton sheetstothegentlesoundof waveslappingagainstthehull isseriouslyunder-rated.

Addtothatthethrillof wakingupin anewportevery morning,fullofexpectationtoget outanddevourtheattractionsand cultureof adiverseandvibrantAotearoa,andit’ssafetosay Iamnow acruise convert.

AcruiseonMajestic Princessisanaffordableand easywaytotravelaround Australasia. Photos/ Supplied

2023 EUROPE RIVERCRUISING SCENIC'SLIMITEDTIME OFFERS

11 DaySpectacular SouthofFrance

•10Nightsonthe 5-star Scenic SapphireinaStandardSuite

•Explorethebeauty of theSouth of France withlocal guides

•Taste thegourmetofferings in Lyon,beimmersed in the acclaimed Burgundy wine regionand seesightsmade famousbyVincent VanGoghinArles.

•2 Scenic Enrich exclusiveexperiences includingan extraordinaryclassical concertand dinnerinthe

magnificent Popes PalaceinAvignonandan Acapella Choir performanceatthe Baroque TrinityChapel in Lyon

•29meals includingpremium beveragesall day, everyday

15DayRomanticRhineandMoselle

•14Nightsona 5-star Scenic Space-Shipin aStandardSuite

•Explorethe legendary BlackForesttocastles andquaint villages, there'smagicalmoments eachday

•Sip on delicious localwines as youcruisewiththe magnificent Moselle Valley as your back drop

•Marvelatthe moderndaywonderthatisHolland’s Delta worksand visit theStormSurge Barrier

•Release your inner thrill seeker onan insider'stourof Hockenheim Formula 1track

•41meals includingpremium beveragesall day, everyday

15DayJewelsofEurope

•14Nightsina luxury Scenic Space-Shipin aStandardSuite

•Explorecities, townsand villages with expertlocalguides

•Cruisethroughdiverse countriessuchasthe Netherlands, Germany,Austria andHungary

•Meander by grandpalaces, romantictownsand fairytale-like castlesalong this ancienttraderoute.

•2 Scenic Enrich experiences exclusivetoScenic including aprivate classicaleveningconcertatPalaisLiechtenstein

•41mealsincludingpremium beveragesall day, everyday

Cruising: Rivers »

Many rivers to cross

Springflowers, autumn colour or a white Christmas? You can experience all of them on acruise on Europe’s diverse network of rivers —and with theNorthern Hemisphere’stopsy-turvyseasons, the weather will be achangefrom what’s on offer at home.

Ariver cruise is agreat way to maximise your European adventure for minimal effort. Borne alongwaterways running through theheartland of the continent, you’ll have ringside seatsfor the varied landscapes that pass by your cabin window. And with small, intimate river vessels that can moor up in central locations,you’ll be perfectly placed for sightseeing in the cities and townsalong the way.What’s more, as each stylish shipacts as afloatingboutiquehotel, you’ll only need to unpackonce

You’ll findsailings departing from aroundthe end of Marchuntil early in the new year, but avoidscheduling atrip for Januaryand February if you’rekeen to tick off ariver cruise on your next trip to Europe.

SPRING: MARCH-MAY

Amadeus RiverCruises

As winter comes to an end both nature and the river cruising market show green shoots of life. There’s no better time to cruise the waterways of the Netherlands —adense network of inland channels passing through apastoral, low-lying landscape dotted with sleepy townsand quintessentially Dutch windmills.The highlight of any sailing hereatthis timeofyear is avisit to the Keukenhof Gardens —a 32ha estate where 40 gardeners cultivate seven million bulbs per year, all scheduled to bloomacrossthe eightweek spring openingseason. An eight-day Tulip Serenade voyagewith Amadeus cruises roundtrip from Amsterdam,visiting Keukenhof, the Kinderdijk windmills, pretty Middelburg

andhistoric Arnhem,and pops overthe borderinto Belgiumto stopatcultural Ghent, trendy Antwerp and picturesqueBruges

Price: Startingfrom NZ$2860, including accommodation, meals with drinks, gratuities and Wi-Fi. amadeus-rivercruises.com.au

Scenic

There’s areasonthat Ella Fitzgerald sang aboutloving Paris in thespringtime —it’s aglorioustime to visit the City of Love. The weatheriswarm but not yet sweltering for visiting classic sights from the Eiffel Tower to the Arc de Triomphe,and cherry and magnolia blossoms fill the streets with colour and perfume. Scenic’s 8-day Highlights of Normandy and the Seine sails from the heart of Parisall the way north to Honfleur, the gateway to the English Channel. Along the way you’ll visit Rouen’s mighty cathedral, the artfilled ChateaudeChantilly, the D-Day landing beaches and Monet’s garden at Giverny, which is particularlybeguiling in spring.

Price: Starting from$6195, including suite accommodation with a butler,dining, drinks, excursions, Wi-Fi andgratuities.

scenicnz.com

European Waterways

Forsomething completely different, choose a springtimecruise alongthe River Po,when the delta is still home to overwintering flamingos Flowing intothe Venetian lagoon, the Po is little navigated, and only the small, 20-passenger ship La Bella Vita can sail upriver as far as the medieval city of Mantua,calling at the coastal town of Chioggia and Renaissance Ferrara. The vessel can even moor up on the

Guidecca Canal in the heartofVenice itself —perfect for easy-access sightseeing.

Price: European Waterways offers a seven-daytrip from$7650, including meals, drinks and excursions. europeanwaterways.com

SUMMER: JUNE TO AUGUST

Avalon Waterways Dreaming of sun-soaked,rural France? You’re probably thinking of Provence in the far southeast,through which the Rhone flowssouth to the Mediterranean. Cruise at the start of summer for fragrant fields of lavender,orlater in the season for the sunflowers that inspired Vincent Van Gogh. Book Avalon Waterways’ eight-day Active& Discovery on the Rhonecruise with awide range of included activities —from apainting workshop in Van Gogh’s homeofArles and alavenderfarm visit outsideAvignontokayaking in the Ardeche Gorgeand acooking class in Lyon.

Price: From $4672, including meals,drinks, excursions, Wi-Fi. avalonwaterways.co.nz

Tui

Lesswell-known is theMoselle, whichruns through steeplyterraced,vine-cladvalleys along the Germany-Luxembourg border. Viticulture heredates back to Roman times, andduring the summer the many wine villages host theirown festivals featuring wine tastings, food and folkloric entertainment. The regionisfull of pastel-tinged,half-timberedhousesand crumbling castles,perfect for explorationifyou need abreak from the vino.

Price: Tui’s seven-night The Moselle Valley Vines &Views starts from$3155 including meals withdrinks and gratuities. tui.co.uk

JoannaBooth recommends thebest time of yeartocruise Europe’s manyrivers,from spring on the Seine to Christmas on the Danube

Top:Watch the world roll pastonanAmadeusRiver Cruise;above, Sweden’s GotaCanal offersa sleepy paceduring aScandinavian summer. Photos /Supplied; Getty Images

Autumn in the RhineGorge is mostpicturesque.

Cruising: Rivers »

Gota Canal Steamship Company

Even more off the beaten trackisSweden’sGota Canal, which cuts from Gothenburg on the west coast right through the country to the Baltic Sea. Sail on asmall, historic ship datingback to 1874 and traverse the network of cut canals, lakesand rivers at aslow, sleepy pace during the long days of aScandinavian summer. Highlightsinclude 66 sets of lock gates, themedieval town of Soderkoping, the ancient Viking site at Birka and Stockholm,the stylish Swedish capital Price: Asix-day packagesailing with the Gota CanalSteamship Company via Fifty Degrees North startsfrom $4968. fiftydegreesnorth.com/au

AUTUMN:SEPTEMBERTONOVEMBER

Emerald Cruises

After the longsun-baked days of summerripen the grapes, autumncomes and it is time for the harvest, makingthese months awonderful option for cruising in Europe’s wine regions. This is particularly trueofPortugal’s Douro Valley. Sheltered from sea breezes by amountain range, it’s punishingly hothere in summer, but September and beyondbask in awarm glow, withthe vine-laced slopes slowly ignitinginto orangeand red tones. The Douroisrelatively short, so weeklong cruises here have arelaxed pace, giving you plenty of time to experience all the region has to offer.Book Emerald Cruises’ eight-day Secrets of the Douro cruiseand plenty of action will be included,from vineyard visits, kayaking trips, walks anda tour of the historic cityof Salamancatoon-board activities such as cookery and port cocktail mixingclasses.

Price: From $4850 for an October departure, includingmeals, drinks, excursions and tips. emeraldcruises.co.nz

APT Luxury Travel

The Douro is famed for hefty red wines and port, but the wines grown on thebanks of the mighty Rhine, which flowsfor more than 1200km through the heart of Central Europe, are

predominantly white. An autumn cruise through the RhineGorge —the most picturesque section of the river, a96km stretchof waterway wherecastles cling to the deepsided gorge —ismade even more beautiful by the vines and trees turning shades of yellow and orange.

APT’s eight-dayHighlights of the Rhine and Mainsailing between Amsterdam and Munich notonly showcasesthe prettiest scenery, but gives youthe freedom to focus on which of the region’s myriad sights you prefer. There’s achoice of included excursions in most ports —inWurzburg youcan tour the Baroque palace, see thequaint medievaltown of Rothenburg or visit alocal, family-owned farm

Price: From $8590 for an October departure, including meals,drinks, excursions and gratuities. aptouring.co.nz

Croisi Europe

Aleftfield choicethat would surprise even more localvisitors is acruise on the Guadalquivir, Spain’s only major navigableriver.CroisiEurope offers voyages sailing roundtripfrom Seville through the heart of Andalucia, and autumn temperatures in the balmy region are perfect for sightseeing. You’ll sip sherry in the port cityofCadiz, visit astud farm raising the famousAndalusian horses and wander Moorish Cordoba andGranada, homeofthe exquisite Alhambra palace.

Price: From $2856 including meals,drinks andsome excursions. croisieurope.com

WINTER —NOVEMBERAND DECEMBER

Arosa Cruises

Festivecruisesare the nameofthe game as the year comes to an end,with themed voyages on arange of different rivers. Dotted alongthe

Danube, Austria’s Christmas marketsare a delicious visit with cinnamon-dusted gingerbread andwarm, spicy mulledwine

A-Rosa is asuperb choice if you’d like aquick-hit cruise that’ll fit into a wider European trip. Afive-day Danube Christmas Marketsitinerary calls at the markets of Vienna, Linz and the Slovakian capital Bratislava, whereyou can sample localspecialitiesincluding pastriesfilled with poppy seeds andwalnuts, and hriato, an unusual hot cocktail made from brandy, honey and bacon.

Price: From $1092 (whenbooked by March31, then $1179), including meals, drinksand Wi-Fi. arosa-cruises.com/au

Viking

To combineChristmas markets witha heftier slice of sightseeing, choose Viking’s 10-day Christmas alongthe Elbe voyage. AlongsideGerman and Czech Yuletide fun —including the world’s oldest Christmas market in Dresden— you’ll get the chancetoexplore the significantcultural sights of Berlin and Prague,plus Potsdam’s magnificent Sanssouci Palace.

Price: From $6254, including meals, drinks, some excursions, Wi-Fiand gratuities viking.com

Uniworld HeadtoBelgium, homeofchocolate and waffles for aDecember cruise to suit the sweetest of teeth.New for this year, Uniworld has an eight-day Belgian Holiday Marketssailing, givingaccess to markets in Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, Hasselt, Aachen, Maastrict and Antwerp,with plentyof time to soak up all the festive feels with ice skating,ferris wheels and Christmas lights.

Price: From $4099, includingdining, drinks, excursions, Wi-Fi and gratuities. uniworld.com/nz

Top:Almost everyseason is agoodtime for aViking European river cruise; above, soak up all the festive feels with a December river cruise in Belgium

AVikingLongship on the Elbe River. Photos/ Supplied Getty Images

Continued from p31

Singaporereturn SHIP: SeabournEncore

14 Days |5 Countries

SETSAIL: 23 December2023

From$12,560* pp in VerandaSuite

BONUS:US$1,000* shipboardcredit

Vancouver return SHIP: SeabournOdyssey

11 Days |2 Countries

SETSAIL: 18September2023

From$11,110* pp in VerandaSuite

BONUS:US$1,000* shipboardcredit

Auckland to Sydney

SHIP: SeabournOdyssey

15 Days |2 Countries

SETSAIL: 23 December2023

From$16,370* pp in BalconySuite

BONUS:US$2,000* shipboardcredit

ExperiencethebestfromshiptoshorewhenyousailEuropeonboardNCL.Wakeuptoa newcitynearlyeverydayandexploremorewithimmersiveshoreexcursions,overnight staysandlate-nightdepartures† CruiseonanyofNCL’s12award-winningshipssailing Europe,includingtheall-newPrimaClass,andgetreadyforaholidayofalifetime.

&NORWAY FROMREYKJAVÍK NEWSHIP NORWEGIANPRIMA MAY–SEP2023 &2024

FROM $4,048 PP*

10-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: ITALY, FRANCE &GREECE FROM ATHENS(PIRAEUS) NEWSHIP NORWEGIANVIVA MAY, JULAUG &OCT 2024

FROM $4,156 PP*

11-DAY MEDITERRANEAN: ITALY, GREECE &CROATIA FROMVENICE(TRIESTE) NORWEGIANGETAWAY 16NOV2024

FROM $3,285 PP*

LATESTAY IN SANTORINI

*Pricecoversthecruiseonlyfortheleastexpensiveinsidestateroomasstated,isperpersonbasedontwinshare,inclusiveoffuelcosts(subjecttochange).Price,itineraryandoffersarecorrectasat20March2023andaresubjecttochange,availabilityandwithdrawal.Pricedoesnotcoverallproductsandservice offeringsthatrelatetothecruise.Pricebasedon7-DayGreekIslesdeparting21May2023,10-DayNorthernEuropedeparting25May2023and10-DayMediterraneandeparting19October2024.+FreeAtSea:ShoreexcursioncreditisUS$50perexcursion&portandisapplicableto1stguestinthestateroom. 3rdand4thguestssailat areducedrateonlyvalidonselecteddatesandselectedcruises.SailawaycategoriesreceiveUS$50shoreexcursioncreditofferonly.^Upto50%OffCruises:DiscountisvalidonallopenforsalesailingsincludingSailawaycategories.Discountwillvarydependingonsailyearand destination.**US$200onboardcredit:isvalidonallopenforsale4+nightssailingsexcludingSailawaycategories,andisperstateroom.Onboardspendisappliedtothe1stand2ndguestinthestateroomandsinglespaying200%.Offersarevaliduntil31March2023.Offersarenon-transferable,havenomonetary valueandarevalidfornewbookingsonly.Offersaresubjecttochangeorwithdrawalatanytimeandcombinabilitywithotherpromotionaloffersissubjecttochange. †Appliestoselectedsailings.Otherrestrictionsmayapply.Forfulltermsandconditionsvisitncl.com.©2023NCLCorporationLtd.NCLAustraliaPty.

Islandsin thedream

Ifyou wanttoexplore Uzbekistan or Ethiopia,cruisingisnot your friend. At the other end of the scale from these landlocked countries you’llfind Greece and the Caribbean —island-dominated destinations whose waterfront tavernas and palm-fringed beaches have madethem staples of the cruise market for many years

Beyond these classics are many novel and alternativeisland options.Ifyou’re lookingfor an adventure,book an expedition cruise around Arctic Svalbard to spot polar bears, or to the wildlife-rich Galapagos archipelago. If cultural discovery is on your list, choose acountryspecific circumnavigation, getting you beneath the skin of life in the likes of Japan, Icelandor even the BritishIsles.Orifsomething more laid back appeals, well, the sleepy, sand-fringed Seychelles andthe South Pacific are waiting to welcome you

The Caribbean

Forget the stereotype of vast shipsadorned with waterslides calling at the same handful of large ports.This is Caribbeancruising done differently.The all-suite Seabourn Ovation carries only 600 passengers andfocusesonthe finer things in life, fromdiningdesigned by Michelinstarred chefThomas Keller to complimentary champagne andcaviar servedinthe surf. The itineraryissimilarly exclusive, with smalland fascinating ports of callinyachtyBequia, rugged Dominica and Gallic-flavoured Martinique and Guadeloupe, as well as the better-known islands of Antigua and Barbados. Excursionsare varied, from cultural tours to catamaran cruises, snorkellingtripsand zip-lining —orthere’s always the option to lounge on the beach. Seabourn’s 14-Day Exotic Caribbean Isles sailing departing December 3starts from $11,892, with all-inclusive accommodation and gratuities. seabourn.com

Sicily

Take adeep dive into the Italian island with

attitude via boutique cruise line Ponant,which will host experts from the renowned Smithsonian academic institutiononthis 8-day cruise, ready to guide you through Sicily’sstoried past. Circling the island on the intimate, luxurious92-cabin Le Champlain, you’ll visit the Ancient Greek temples of Agrigento, the medieval hill town of Erice, the Romanamphitheatre at Syracuse andthe Norman castle at Lipari.Then there’s the gritty gem that is thecapital,Palermo, andnot onebut two active volcanoes, with asail-by of Stromboli and the chance to visit awinery on Etna’s slopes Ponant’s ACircumnavigation of Sicily with Smithsonian Journeys departing April 14, 2024, starts from $10,900,with all-inclusive accommodation, transfers and shore excursions. au.ponant.com

The Galapagos

When Charles Darwin sailed among the islands of the Galapagos on the Beagle he hadtoget usedtosleeping in ahammock.

You’ll be more pampered on the 100-guest, all-suite mega-yacht CelebrityFlora, with seafood buffets under the stars andeven aspa. But the real magic happens off-ship, when you headashore each day with naturalist guides to discover the archipelago’s uniquewildlife, which inspired Darwin’s theory of evolution. You’ll spot lumbering giant tortoises, piratical frigatebirds, dragon-like marineiguanas and it’ll be all you can do to stay one step ahead of the curious sea lions,both on land and while snorkelling in the clear waters.

Celebrity Cruises’ 7-Night Galapagos Inner Loop from Baltradeparting August 6starts from $13,371,with all-inclusive accommodation, shore excursions and Wi-Fi. celebritycruises.com/nz

Iceland

Iceland’s geothermal nature is writ large upon its landscape, with bubblinggeysersand lunar lavafieldsatevery turn. Justasevident is the country’s sheer beauty, with soaring mountains,

plungingwaterfalls and crenellatedfjords white in winter, but vivid green duringsummer. On boardthe luxurious Silver Endeavour, you’ll sail around the whole island, discovering everything from the capital Reykjavik to the arty town of Dyupivogur. You can visit puffin colonies,spot whales,hike, bike and river raft. There are stops in the remote Faroe Islandsand visits to Scotland’s Shetlands, Orkneys, Skye, Uist and St Kilda.

Silversea’s 14-day Reykjavik to Reykjavik cruise departingMay 18, 2024, starts from $23,960, including transfers,flights, upgrades or air credit, shore excursions and allinclusivesuite accommodation silversea.com

Japan

After one the longest Covid border closures in the globe, appetite for traveltoJapan has bounced back with avengeance since October last year. Sakura, or cherry blossom,istaken very seriouslyand finding accommodation in springtime is areal struggle. Book this bumper cruiseonAzamara Journey and you won’t need to worry, travellinginyour own stylish floating hotel and visiting ahost of highlights,fromTokyo’s bright lights andthe geishas, gardensand shrines of Kyototothe iconic Mount Fuji and the thought-provoking HiroshimaPeace Memorial.While also calling at afistful of lesser-known Japanese ports, you’ll also spend aday in Busan, South Korea, wherethere’s a lively local fish market by the port,and a clutch of tranquiltemples in the mountains.

Azamara’s 15-night JapanIntensiveVoyage departing March 19, 2024, starts from $5962 includingaccommodation, dining, gratuities, entertainment and laundry. azamara.com/en-au

The British Isles

The UK andIrelandare hardlyvast nations, but as any native will tell you,travelling around can

There’s no betterway to discovermotu than from the water, writes Joanna Booth

Top:Visitahost of Tokyo highlights,fromthe bright lights and geishastopretty springtimecherry blossom; above, On board the luxurious Silver Endeavour, you’ll sail around thewhole of Iceland Photos/ Getty Images; Supplied

Ablue-footedbooby in The Galapagos.

Cruising: Islands »

Continuedfromp35

betime-consumingandcostly.Swaplongroad trips,delayedtrains or priceyflightsfor acruise shipandyoucanexperience amedleyofwhatthe BritishIsleshavetoofferwitheaseandincomfort. SailingontheratherelegantRegalPrincessyou cankisstheBlarneystoneinCork,sink apint ofGuinnessinDublin,walkontheGiant’sCausewayoutsideBelfast,visittheprehistoricvillage ofSkaraBraeinOrkneyandwanderthestreets ofartnouveauGlasgowandmedievalEdinburgh —andevenpoptoPariswith acallatLeHavre. Intheevening,enjoyBroadway-styleproductions intheon-boardtheatreormoviesunderthestars ondeck —Britishweatherpermitting.

PrincessCruises’12-dayBritishIslesCruise departingMay15,2024,startsfrom$2929,includingaccommodation,diningandentertainment. princess.com

TheSeychelles

Fly-and-flopperswillneverquitegetthebestof theSeychelles. With115islandsinthisIndian Oceanarchipelagoit’dbe ashametosticktoone; aweekonthesmall,44-passengershipPegasos willtake youto10,includingthebird-fillednature reservesofArideandCousin,ex-lepercolony turnedtortoisesanctuaryCurieuseandMahe,the maininhabitedislandfullofCreolecharacter.

You’llsnorkeloffdots-in-the-oceanincludingSt Pierre,GrandeSoeurandStAnne,possiblyspottingturtles and dolphins,andvisitoneofthe world’smostfamousbeaches —LaDigue’sL’Anse SourceD’Argent, wheregraniteboulders,coral

Guidedand Group Tours withKiwi

• Easypaced –Idealformaturetravellers

• Singleswelcome

• Return flightsincluded

• Instalmentplans

• Nocardfees

Freephone:0800 895 194

Email:info@ktctours com www.kiwitravelclub.co.nz

sands,swayingpalmsandazurewatercreatea pictureofparadise.

VarietyCruises’Seychelleseight-daycruise runningyear-roundstartsfrom$3585,including full-boardaccommodationandwalkingtours. varietycruises.com

TheGreekIslands

Island-hoppinginGreecemaysoundlikethe Mamma-Mia dream,butdraggingyourluggage onandoffunpredictableferriesdoesn’talways makefor achilled-outholiday.Travelonthe three-mastedmotoryachtPanoramaandyour tripwillbeallkillernofiller,withcallsat volcanicSantorini,archaeology-richDelosand celeb-hauntMykonos,plustimespentinAthens preandpost-cruise.Thissmallshipcangowhere largecruiserscannot,includingtouninhabited PoliegosandpicturesqueAmorgos.You’llalso drop anchoroffquietbeaches,withtimetololl onthesandandplungeintotheclearAegeanSea.

IntrepidTravel’s9-dayCruisingtheIslandsof GreeceandTurkeytripstartsfrom$5490includingaccommodation,selectedmeals,activities andguiding. intrepidtravel.com/nz

Svalbard

PolarbearsarethestarsoftheshowinSvalbard, theNorwegianislandgrouphighabovethe ArcticCircle.Theirloveforseaicemeansa cruiseis agreatwaytospotthem,givingyou thechancetoseethemfromthewateraswell asonland.Onanadventurouscruisewith AuroraExpeditions,you’llbebusytakingtrips onzodiacsandhikingacrosswildflower-strewn

ElvisFans Coach Tour

Graceland, Nashville, NewOrleans 8days,departs 8October2023

$5,950

Perperson,twinshareexAuckland

Packageincludes:

• Return flights,hotelsand entryfees

• Extensive sightseeing

• Gracelanddaytour

• Tourdirectorandcoachdriver

Route66 SelfDrive

ChicagotoLosAngeles

SpendtimeinAthens preandpost-cruise withIntrepidTravel.

Photo /GettyImages

tundra,sightingotherindigenouswildlifeincludingbelugawhales,walruses,puffins,reindeerandarcticfoxes.Thehighly-qualifiedexpeditionteamwillfillyourtimeonboardwith talksonnatureandhistory,andthebravestcan evenundertakethe“polarplunge”,jumpinginto thefrigidwaters.

AuroraExpeditions’12-daySvalbardOdyssey startsfrom$16,508,includingfullboardaccommodationandexcursions. auroraexpeditions.com.au

TheSouthPacific

Howabout atriptoseetheworld’snewestisland? HungaTongawasformedby asubmarinevolcanoin2014,andonsomeSouthPacificcruise itineraries,youcanvisittheinfantlandform,the lavafieldsofitscratersprawlingdownwardsto thesea.You’llfinishthisFijiandTongavoyage onScenicEclipsehalfmer-person,witha host ofwater-basedactivitiesincludingkayaking, stand-uppaddleboarding,swimmingincave poolsonSawa-i-Lau and under waterfallson Taveuni,anddivingon apristinebarrierreef atBeqa.There’sculturalcommuniononoffertoo, with alandingattheLauislandswherea lack ofland-basedtourismhashelpedpreserveclan traditions.Thissix-staryachtisthelastword inluxury,sailingwithtwohelicoptersandits ownsubmarine.

Scenic’snine-dayLagoons,ReefsandCultures oftheSouthPacificstartsfrom$10,567forOctober2024departures,includingall-inclusivesuite accommodationwithbutlerservice,transfers, excursionsandgratuities. scenicnz.com

TheKimberley GroupCoach Tour

16days,departs15 September2023

$7,250

Packageincludes:

• Return flights

• Vehiclerental

• FordMustangupgrade available

• Hotelaccommodation

• Route66attractions

• Comprehensivetournotes

Darwin to Broome 11 days,departs24 August2023

$7,750

Perperson,twinshareexAkl/Wgtn/Chch

Packageincludes:

• Return flights

• Comfortablehotels

• Extensive sightseeing

• Many meals

DISCOVER THE WORLD

Japan Uncovered

18 day fullyinclusiveClassic Tour

OurmostextensivetourofJapanincludesall the classicsightsand keyculturalactivities.Featuring moderncities,historicalsightsandbeautiful landscapesitensures you’ll getthemostfromthis fascinating land.

$12,480pp twinshare*

TOURHIGHLIGHTS

•Discoverhistoric Kyoto& Nara

•ReflectinHiroshima &Miyajima

•AdmirebeautifulMount Fuji

•See thesnowmonkeys

•Feelthe rushof Tokyo& Osaka

•Explore Kanazawa &Takayama

AIRFARES INCLUDEDQ

JapanbyRail

22 dayfullyinclusiveClassic Tour

Forthosewheretimeisnolimit,thisisthe ultimatetop-to-toe tourofJapan covering three islandsinone trip –Kyushu,Honshuand Hokkaidowhilsttravellingonthe bullettrain! Experienceancienttraditions to new-world charm.

$14,380pp twinshare*

TOURHIGHLIGHTS

•Reflectin Nagasaki &Hiroshima

•AdmireKyoto’s temples

•See thesnowmonkeys

•Explore bustlingTokyo

•DiscoverSendai &Hakodate

•Spendtimeinlofty Sapporo

*Priceappliesto14Oct 2023departure.

*Priceapplies to 01,04, 07,22Oct &01, 05 Nov2023departures

Angkor to theBay

18 dayfullyinclusiveClassic Tour

OurmostpopularIndochina tourtakesyouon ajourneyofdiscovery,fromthebreathtaking templesofAngkorandtheMekong Delta throughtothenaturalgrandeurof HalongBay, experiencingallmannerofdelights en route.

$7,480pp twinshare*

TOURHIGHLIGHTS

AIRFARES INCLUDEDQ

•Beinspired by the Angkor temples

•See thelocallifeinTonle Sap

•Visitcaptivating PhnomPenh

•MarvelatHue’s ImperialCitadel

•StrollHanoi’s atmosphericalleyways

•Cruisethemagical HalongBay

*Priceapplies to 14Oct2023departure.

Additional charges:CustomarytippingUS$105pp.

Newbookings only. Notcombinable with anyotheroffer other thanloyaltydiscount.Bookingsare non-transferable.Anon-refundabledepositof$99ppis to arriveatWendyWuToursoryour travelagent within threedaysofreceiving confirmation that spacehas beenheld foryou.Ahigher depositmay be required to issueyourflightticketandsecuretheprice. View full termsand conditions at www.wendywutours.co.nz/discover-the-world/ORwww.wendywutours.co.nz/china-is-open/

INCLUDEDQ

WondersofChina

16 day fullyinclusiveClassic Tour

Thishugely popular tourjourneys throughsome ofChina’s mosticonicsights fromBeijing’s GreatWall,Xian’s warriors, andpicturesqueGuilintothemightyYangtze River.Abusy,fun-filledtour!

$7,190pp twinshare*

TOURHIGHLIGHTS

•Walkon theGreat Wall

•Watch giantpandas at play

•Facethemagnificent Terracotta Army

•Stayinrural Yangshuo

•Cruisethe YangtzeRiver

•AdmireShanghai’sbrightlights

AIRFARES INCLUDEDQ

*Priceapplies to 03 Sep2023departure. Additional charges:CustomarytippingRMB770pp.

MiyajimaIsland,Japan

YOURDREAM HOLIDAY

FULLYESCORTEDGROUPTOURS

Joinoneofourescortedtourswithexperiencedtourleadersaswetravelfrom NewZealandtoexploresomeuniqueandexcitinglocationsandactivities.

VIVIDSYDNEY

1-5 Jun2023, 5daysfrom$4,590pp

Feastyoureyesuponmulti-dimensionalart!Impressivelightinstallationsand 3Dprojectionsilluminatetheurbanplaygroundintheannual VividSydney festival.Indaylighthours,weexploreSydneysightsandtheBlueMountains.

Highlightsinclude:

•Viewamazing VividSydneyinstallationsonfootandbycruise

•CitytourofSydneytolearnaboutstoriesofthepastandpresent

•AdayspentinthetranquilBlueMountains

•JourneyontheRailway,CablewayandSkywayatScenicWorld

•Anin-depthtouroftheQuaranteenStationhistoricalsiteatNorthHead

•VisittoBygone Beautysheritagemuseum.

FIJIANISLANDCRUISE

28Jul-5Aug2023, 9daysfrom$4,595 pp

Let’sgoandenjoythewarmweatherandBulaSpiritthatFijihastooffer. Fijiis blessedwithover300tropicalislandsthatare saidtobethehomeofhappiness. Whilehere,we’llenjoy amulti-daycruiseofthe Yasawa &MamanucaIslands.

Highlightsinclude:

•CruisetomanybeautifulFijianislandssuchasfilm-famousMonorikiwhere Tom Hanks’Castawaywasfilmed

•Specialchoralservicewithbeautifulharmoniesfrom avillagechoir

•TraditionalFijianFeast(Lovo)andCulturalperformance(Meke)

•Coralviewingfrom aglassbottomboat

•Snorkel,swim,kayak,standuppaddle boardorroamthebeachesfora

WESTERNAUSTRALIA:DISCOVERTHECORALCOAST

13-27Aug2023,15daysfrom$14,590

Discoverthousandsofyearsofhistoryandstunningsceneryonthistripofa lifetime.FromthePinnaclestoKalbarriNationalPark to incredibleNingaloo Reef,we’llenjoysomeofthemostlovedattractionsinAustraliaonthistour.

Highlightsinclude:

• CitysightsofPerthincludingFremantleandits historicprison

• NambungNationalPark–hometoThePinnacles

• SkywalkoverKalbarriNationalPark

• CruisefromCoralBaytotheNingalooMarinePark

• YardieCreekcruiseintheCapeRangeNationalPark

• ExploreBroomeincludingPearlLuggers,CableBeachandBroomeMarkets

• Abucket-listexperienceatOperaUnderTheStars®.

EXPLORE TASMANIA

21Oct-2Nov2023,13daysfrom$8,390pp

We areinfor atreatasweheadofftoexperience Tasmania’sspectacular ruggedbeautyand highlights. We travelintoitspristine wildernesstouncover thecompellingconvicthistorysetdeepwithinthehistoricaltowns.

Highlightsinclude:

• TimetoexplorethecapitalcityofHobart

• PortArthurConvictSettlementtourandharbourcruise

• Huon ValleyandCrawleigh WoodGarden

• Afulldaycruisingthe GordonRiver

• CradleMountainNationalParkandthe WildernessGallery

• TouroneofAustralia’soldestcities,Launceston

• BeaconsfieldandtheMine &HeritageMuseum.

LONE CRUISER

Thinking of asolo sailing sojourn?

The followingcruises are perfect for single travellers, with solofriendly features like dedicated solo cabins, no single supplements andactivity programmes that encourage socialising and making new friends

PANDAW

Halong Bay andRed River

You’ll stay overnightinone of Vietnam’s most famous destinations, HalongBay,and spend the day in Hanoi on this cruise, which explores the smalltownsand smaller villages alongthe Red River. Daily excursions are included so you can fully immerse yourself in the culture and history of Vietnam.No-single supplement fares are available on manyofPandaw’s luxuriousriver ships, whichcombine traditional woodendecks, fittings and furnishings with all the modern conveniences.Faresinclude most drinks, crew gratuities andshore excursions, and dining tends to be family style or on shared tables, making this line ideal for sociable singles.

Pricedfrom $5750pp. pandaw.com

CORAL EXPEDITIONS

Kimberley Cruise:Australia

As alocal industry leader for solo sailors, Coral

Expeditions runsits own Solo Travellers Facebook Group, andoffersarangeoffares for single travellers. Choose from options including asolo guest matching servicefor those whodon’t mind sharing acabin, 30-daysolo standby fares for travellerswith flexible travel dates and multiple sailings with no single supplement. With half adozen of these 10-night voyages available in the Kimberley in May and June, there’s neverbeen abetter timetocheckout Montgomery Reef andthe Horizontal Waterfalls, visit remote Aboriginalrock-art galleries and go swimming in pristinewaterholes. From $15,575pp. coralexpeditions.com

AVALONWATERWAY

The Rhine and Moselle: Canals, Vineyards and Castles Savings on AvalonWaterways’ European river

cruises can amount to more than $10,000 if single travellers book earlyenough. You can optfor a longer cruiseand save big,orchoose ashorter itinerary like aseven-nightcruise down the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. This trip kicksoff in Amsterdam, the perfect pre-cruise holiday destination, then takes you downtwo of Europe’s most famous rivers. If you can’t decide whether you wanta wine-focused adventureora river cruise with plenty of history, this trip offers the bestofbothworlds with stops in the Old Town of Cologne, wine tastings and castles. From $4395pp. avalonwaterways.co.nz

PONANT

Alaska’s Inside Passage with Smithsonian Journeys

Early bookingbonusescan be combined with nosingle supplement deals on Ponant, so you can double dip when saving money on your solo cruise holiday. There’s plenty of choicewhen it comes to the line’s no single supplement sailings, andspecialeventtrips like the eight-nightAlaska’s Inside Passage trips run in conjunction with Smithsonian Journeysare often included. The luxury French cruise line has created these immersive cruises, especially for Englishspeakers, and includestransfers to and fromthe ship, expert lectures from world-leadingexperts, immersive shore excursions and moreineach fare. From $9605pp. ponant.com

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Greek Isles:Italy, Franceand Greece

See six different countries in seven days on a Norwegian Escape cruisefrom Rome, which takes in popular towns such as Naples, Valetta, Corfu and Dubrovnik before the ship finally docks in Venice.Ifyou’re worried aboutfeeling lonely, an itinerary like this one with plenty of ports makes it easy to fill your days with fun things to do.Like manyother NCLships, Norwegian Escape has Studio cabins that sleep oneand comewith their own Studio lounge wheresolo travellers can mix and mingle with other singles, enjoycomplimentaryrefreshments and order room service to enjoyasa group. From $2350pp. ncl.com

Main:The Grecian viewwith blue domes andblue sea in Oia in Santorini; top:The vineyards of Bremmand the loopofthe Mosellein Germany; above, acosy roomaboard the Queen Elizabeth Photos/ Supplied; Getty Images

ROYAL CARIBBEAN

Tasmania Cruise

All three RoyalCaribbean ships sailing in our region during the upcoming 23/24 season— Brilliance of the Seas,Ovation of the Seas and Quantum of the Seas— have studio cabins for solo travellers. Choose fromaninside, balcony, or avirtual balcony stateroom with afloor-toceiling LED display screen projecting live images of the ocean and ports to bring the outside inside. Pack your bags for this five-night round-trip Tasmania cruise on Brilliance of the Seas which makesits debut in our regionlater this year. Cruisingfrom Sydney, you’llspend aday in Hobart. With asea day on either side, there’s time to relax as well. From $775pp. royalcaribbean.com

CUNARD

Australia ShortBreak

Atwo-nightShort Break cruise from Sydney to Melbourne on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth is an elegant way to get fromA to Bonyour next trip to Australia. Single-occupancy cabinsare available acrossthe fleet,including on local favourite Queen Elizabeth which sails in our regionduring summer. The sociable onboard atmosphere and solo-friendly activities like coffee mornings are ahit withsingle travellers. Male and female dance hosts are available each night to take you for aspin around the dance floor. If you prefer not to dine alone, ask to join atable in the dining room or during the complimentary daily afternoon tea served by white-gloved waiters. From $520pp. cunard.com

HOLLAND AMERICALINE

Classic California Coast

Explore California’s coastaltowns on asix-night round-trip cruise from San Diego onboard the Koningsdam whichhas solo cabins priced for single occupancy. If you would like to sail somewhere else,thesecabins are also available on Nieuw Statendam and the Rotterdam. There’s a singles’ get-together at the start of each cruise and when you’re not exploring onshore, you can join activitiessuch as line dancing classes, wine tasting and cooking demonstrationsand have dinner with the other singles you’ve met onboard at asolo travellers’ table. From $1220pp. hollandamerica.com

pen yo going ne, writes Tiana Templeman

FIVE DAYS INPERTH AND MARGARET RIVEER

WITHSTEPHANIEHOLMES

“I love therelaxedholidayvibesinPerth.It’sthe sunniest capital in Australia anditmakes themostofits beautiful weather. Thereare whitesandy beachesinseemingly every direction,islands to explore,and thestunning Margaret Riverregionisonlythreehourssouth. Auniquemixofvineyard,micro-breweries,surfbreaks andbeaches,it’samust-visit.”

1

RELAXON ROTTNESTISLAND

Home to quokkas—the grinning marsupials that you’ve no doubtseenon yoursocialfeeds— Rottnest Island (Wadjemup)isanislandparadise.The holiday haveniswhereyou’llfind around60pristine beaches, aquamarine bays,biketracks, andwalking trails. Afterboardingaferry in Fremantle (Walyalup),you’llland at the naturereserve just 30 minuteslater.It’sentirely car-free,but easy to explore viathe Rottnest Island ExplorerBusorbicycle.There area varietyofplacesto stay andyou cantreatyourself to awatersideseafood lunch, snorkelintherich marine reserve, andkeepaneye outfor theisland’shappylittle quokkas.

2

SOAKUPTHESUNSETINFREMANTLE

On Perth’ssoutherndoorstep,Fremantleisahub of eclecticartists with athriving beerand seafood scene, allroundedoutbyfascinatingmaritime history. Startyourday rightbygetting your caffeine fix onthe “cappuccino strip,”asection of South Terrace that’s famousfor itscafésand Italianinfluence. Coffee in-hand, it’s time to head to the famous FremantleMarkets. Established in 1897,the historicbuildinghouses more than 150stallsand isoneofWestern Australia’s mostvisitedattractions.Then,after avisit to the WA Maritime Museum and WorldHeritage-listedFremantle Prison,it’s timefor arefreshingbeeratoneofFremantle’s awardwinning craftbreweries.Roundoutyour daybywatching thesunsetovertheIndianOcean.

3

INDULGEINEPICUREANDELIGHTSIN THEMARGARETRIVERREGION

Spendyourmorning drivingtotheMargaretRiver region,onlythreehourssouth of Perth(Boorloo),where foodies minglewithsurfers.The culinary destinationhas long been celebrated forits wineries,withover100 cellar doors—includingLeeuwin Estateand Voyager Estate— producingcabernetsauvignon, shiraz,merlot, and chardonnay. Morerecently, it’s alsobecome knownfor its craft breweries,with abouthalfadozenspottedacross the region.Ifadesignateddriverisinorder,bookonto aday tour to visittheregion’s bestwineries, breweries, and restaurants. Or simply follow themagnetic pull of theincredible coastlineand tryone of theoutdoor activities—ranging from hikes,to mountainbiking, to canoeing—where adventuremeetsindulgence.

4

WALKMARGARETRIVER’S CAPE TO CAPETRACK

To walk theentiretyofthe 123kmCape to Cape Track—stretching from Cape Naturaliste in thenorth to CapeLeeuwininthe south—takesroughlya week.It’sa worthwhile endeavour—the coastalthreadtiestogether some of the region’s best offerings, includingstunning beaches, tall timberforests,fabulousfoodand wine, andAboriginalculturalexperiences.You canevenwalk pack-free,withpacktransfers to accommodation for hikers.Butifyou’veonlygot halfaday,try thestunning walk from Smiths BeachtoCanal Rocksandonwardsto Injidup NatureSpa,wherethere’s a“natural” aquarium along theway.The beautifulcoastal walk rewards hikers with stunningclifftopviews.

5 GO COASTEERINGWITHTHE MARGARETRIVERADVENTURE COMPANY

On your final dayinWestern Australia,taketheadventure up anotchbytryingyourhandatcoasteering,ablend ofrock hopping, shorescrambling,and swellriding. The Margaret RiverAdventure companyistheonly operator in Australia to offerthe sport, andthey’ll ensure you seebeautiful sceneryand wildlifealongtheway. They’ll fullykit youout in awetsuit,lifejacket, andhelmet,and equipyou withthe skillsneeded to safely take part in the ultimateaquaticadventure in theNgari MarinePark. www.westernaustralia.com

QuokkaonRottnestIsland.

FremantleFishingBoatHarbour McLeod Tours,MargaretRiver..CapetoCapeTrack.

MargaretRiver Adventure Co.

oURPooLIsoPen aLLyeaRRoUnd.

Comeandsay

Rottnest Island,Western Australia

PeRthCity,IsLandandWiLdLife

Flights&7night packagefrom $3619 perpersonsharetwin.Flying AirNew Zealand Travel:11-30May,06-20Jun23

PackageIncludes:

•ReturnAirfares flying AirNew Zealand(TheWorks)from Auckland to Perth

•8 Daycarhire

•2 nights at Crowne Plaza, Perth

•TheUltimate PerthCity Walking Tour

•3 nightsat Margaret Beach Resort, MargaretRiver

•FullDayMargaretRiverDiscovery Tour(Mon-Fri); withCanoeMargaret River,ShortGuidedwalkofthe Cape-to-Capetrack,Gourmetlunch withwinery tour, 4WDtriptodreamtimesiteandhidden waterhole

•2 nights glamping experienceatDiscovery Park, Rottnest Island withreturnferryticketsfrom Fremantle.

PeaRLsofBRoome

Flights &7night packagefrom $7099 perpersonsharetwin.Flying AirNew Zealand Travel:Select dates between05-25May 23

PackageIncludes:

•ReturnAirfares flying AirNew Zealand(The Works)from Auckland to Perth

•Returndomesticflights flyingVirgin Australiafrom Perth to Broome

•2 NightsatFrasersSuites,Perth

•6 Daycar hire

•3 NightsOaksBroomeinaOne BedroomApartment

•HalfDayBroomeSights Tour (Mon-Fri)

•Sunset,Seafoodand Pearling Cruise

•2 NightsatPearlersVillage,Cygnet BayinaSafariTent

•HorizontalFallsHalfDay TourfromCygnet Bayincl.scenic Seaplane flight,power boat ride, houseboatlunch.

BOOKTHESE GREATHOLIDAYS ANDMOREWITH YOUR LOCALHOUSEOFTRAVEL. COMEINSTORE,VISITHOT.CO.NZORCALLON0800713715

Cruising: Activetravel

Ifyou havetheenergy,Royal Caribbeanhastheactivity. Tiana Templeman discovers awealthof experiencestobefoundonboard abigshipcruise.

Ifyou’renotsurewhetheroneofRoyal Caribbean’slocalmega-shipsisrightfor you,you’renotalone.Myhusbandand Iwerewonderingthesamethingwhen wedecidedtogoonQuantumoftheSeas for afour-nightround-tripcruiseto Airlie Beach.Ithadbeenyearssincewe’dbeen onsuch abigship.

Withfondmemoriesofthegoodtimeswe’d hadinthepast,wedecidedtotryasmanyof theon-boardactivitiesaspossible,despiteus nowbeinginour50s.Witheverythingfrom skydivingandrollerskatingtoboogieboarding, bumpercars,Zumbaclasses,andthesky-high North Staronoffer,weweredeterminedto proveweweren’t“pastit”whenitcametobeing activeandhavingfun.

DAY1

ArrivingattheBrisbaneInternationalCruise

Terminalataround1.30pm,aftermost ofthe passengerswerealreadyonboard,webreezed throughsecurityinrecordtime.Wewerepattingourselvesonthebackforsuchsmart planninguntilwediscoveredthatboardinglate meantwe’dmissedoutonbookingtheiFly SkydivingSimulatorandNorthStarforfree.

TheseactivitieswerecomplimentarypreCovid,butthisisnolongerthecaseexcepton portdays.You’lleitherneedtogetin(really, really)quickonembarkationdaytoscoreone ofthefreeridesorgetluckywhenadditional slotsarereleasedduringthecruise.Or,like us, youcanpayfortheiFly($47)andtheNorthStar ($30.50)usingtheRoyalCaribbeanapp,either inadvanceorwhenyou’reonboard.

Whilewe werestrollingaroundtheshipto getourbearings,wenoticedtherewasnoqueue fortheFlowRidersurfsimulatorandcouldn’t believeourluck.Thiswasoneofourfavourite activitiesonpreviouscruises,andweraced downtogetourtogs —onlytodiscoverwe’d forgottentopacktheminourcarry-onbag.Don’t makethesamemistake,asembarkationdayis theonlytimethere’snoqueueforthisfree family-friendlyactivity.

Aftercursingourforgetfulness,wehad aglass ofwineatVintagesBarandexploredthe restaurants,lounges,andotherpublicspaces

AGE ISBUTA NUMBER

beforedinneratthespecialtyrestaurant,Wonderland.Itcanbedifficultgetting atableatthe for-a-feediningspots,especiallyonshortcruises wheneveryonewantstotrythemall,sobook inadvanceaswedid.Pre-purchasing discountedpackagesforthingslikedrinksand specialtydiningmakesyourholidaydollargo furtherandtakesthestingoutoftheship’sUS dollarpricing.

DAY2

Wegrabbed ahealthybreakfastattheSolarium Cafe,thengotreadytogoskydivingatsea.While itwasdisappointingtomissouton afreebieride, wewouldn’thesitatetopayforanotheriFly sessiononfuturecruises.Notonlyarethere fewerpeople,soyoudon’thavetowaitaslong foryourturn,youalsogettwoflightsinstead ofone,plusmoreone-on-oneinstructortimefor tuitionbeforeyourflight.

Eachrideonlylasts aminute,butyoucan cram alotoffuninto60seconds,especiallyif you’veflownbefore.Wewere abitrustyonour

firstgobutbythesecondride,wewereflying freeas abirdandspinningaroundandgoing upanddowninsidethetunnel.Loadsoffunand wellworththespend.

Wedideventuallygoboogieboardingonthe FlowRider,butthequeuewaslong,thesunwas hot,anditfeltlikeagesbeforeitwas finallyour turn.Afterbothnailinga 360-degreespin,we skippedliningupagainandquitwhilewewere ahead.Makesureyourtogsareontightifyou goboogieboarding,oryoucouldendupshowing everyonemorethanyourcooltricks.

Iwouldliketotellyouthat IbookedtheNorth Stargondolaat6pmtotimeourrideperfectly forsunset.Butitwasjustluck.As theclouds litupwith agoldenglow,weascended90minto theairandoutoverbothsidesoftheshipas itsaileduptheQueenslandcoast.Thisexperiencewasn’tasactiveassomeoftheotherswe tried,butitwasoneofourfavouritesandvery romantic.

AfterhavingsomuchfunonthepaidiFly andNorth Staractivities,weweredetermined

Joinusforthebiggestlightingshowcaseintheworld!!.SeetheOperahouseandsurroundingiconic Sydneybuildingslightedwithincredibledesigns.Spectacularlightingdisplaysandsculpturesthroughout Sydney.StaySofitel Wentworth(4nights).Joinyour TourManageronguidedwalksroundthedisplays earlyevening.Thenaneveningcruiseontheharbourtoseethelightsfrom adifferentperspective.Enjoy ahalfdayHawkesburyRivercruiseincludinglunch.IncludesreturnairfaresAuckland/Wellingtonor Christchurch,qualityaccommodationbasedonsharing atwinroom(singlesupplement available) sightseeingasnoted. Freehomepickup &returninAuckland/WellingtonorChristchurchwithin25kof thecityairport.

Noonecanresistagoon thebumpercarsaboard QuantumoftheSeas.

VietnamDiscovery

16NightFly, Stay,Cruisepackagefrom:

InteriorTwinfrom $4899pp

OceanviewTwinfrom $5199pp

togetoneofthefreeportdayslotswhenthey werereleasedlaterthatnight,butweonly gotluckywiththeNorthStargondola. TheviewoftheWhitsundayswasgreat, butourpaidexperiencewasbetteras thefreebierideonlywentupand down.Stillgoodfunbutonceagain, weweregladwepaidandwoulddo soagain.

AfterdinneratJamie’sItalian,we had abookingfor Starwater,theheadlinershowinTwo70. We wereso impressedbyitandthetalentofthe performersthatwewenttoseethesame showagainthefollowingevening.Tonight wasnon-stopfunas,aftercatching abandin theMusicHall,wealsodancedlikenoonewas watchingattheSilentParty.

Peoplelikeuswhohaddonethisactivity beforewerefirstinlinetograba pairof theglowingheadphoneswith aswitch thatswapsbetweentwodifferentmusic channels:contemporarypop(think MichaelJackson)and alivemixfrom theship’sDJ.Tonight’sSilentParty wasourbestyet,with aspontaneous congalineonthedancefloorand greatmusic.

TheSilentPartyonlyhappensonce onmostcruises(evenonlonger sailings),so don’tmakethemistakeof thinking,“I’llgonexttime”whenyousee itlistedintheDailyPlanner.It’salsonot exactlysilent aseveryonesingsoutloud— lotsoffuntowatch,evenifyoudon’tdance.

DAY3

Todaywas aportday,butwe’dvisitedAirlie Beachbefore,andaftersuchanaction-packed dayyesterday,wewerehappytostayonboard toread,relaxandbobaroundinthepool.For lunch,wetooka triparoundtheworldatthe WindjammerMarketplace,samplingnachos

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displayedin agiantpaellapanandfreshly madesalads. Acomplimentarysoftserve onthepooldeckprovided asweetfinish. Wealsochannelledourinnerchild onthedodgemcars,thenturnedback intogrown-upsthatevening,getting dressedupandenjoyingcocktails and ajazzquintetinboleros,followed bydinnerbeforewecalleditanight andwerelulledtosleepbythewaves.

DAY4

Onourlastseaday, Idiscoveredthat doing aZumbaclassrightbefore aprebookedrollerskatingsessionisonlya good ideaifyou’re akidwithlotsofenergyorreally fit. Iamneither.But,despitethefactmylegs werebeggingformercy,nothingwasgoingto stopmefrompretendingIwasOliviaNewtonJohninthemovie Xanadu.Provided Icould stillrememberhowtoskateaftermore than30years.

Igrabbedmysetofwheels,puton themandatoryhelmetandwrist guards,andwavedawaytheoffer of kneeandelbowpadswiththe(probablymisguided)confidenceofsomeonewhospenteveryweekendatthe localskatearenainthe80s.Myhusbandneverskatedas akidandwasn’t keentostartnow,buthewas morethan happytocheermeonandtakephotos.

Aftera few wobbly spinsaround the SeaPlex,myskatingskillsmiraculously returned,and Iwascruisingalongwithease. All Ihadtodowasavoidgettingtakenoutby littlekidswithmore enthusiasmthanexperience. Imightbeoldernowbut,whenitcomes tostayinguprightduringrollerskating sessions,itturnsoutsomethingsnever change.

Formore,visitroyalcaribbean.com

BONUSEXTRA:

AddOnboardDrinks &Wifipackagefrom just$700pp

Veranda Twin from $5319pp

Concierge Veranda Twin from $5529pp

ReturnFlights from Auckland (Askusaboutpricingfrom otherregionalairports)

2Night HotelStay inHong Kongincludingdailybreakfast

12NightCelebritySolsticeCruise: Hong Kong | Hanoi(HalongBay, overnight) | Hue/Danang(ChanMay) | HoChiMinh(PhuMy) | Bangkok (LaemChabang overnight) | Ko Samui | Singapore

2Night HotelStay inSingaporeincludingdailybreakfast

Dailyonboardgratuities • Allairport&porttaxes

11NightCruise, Stay,Fly PackageInauguralSeasoninNewZealand:

InteriorTwinfrom $3199pp

OceanviewTwinfrom $3499pp

Veranda Twinfrom $3889pp

10NightCelebrity EdgeCruise: Auckland | Tauranga | Napier(ArtDeco Festival) | Picton &MarlboroughSounds | Christchurch(Lyttelton) | Dunedin (PortChalmers) | DoubtfulSound,DuskySound,MilfordSound | Eden | Sydney

1NightStay inSydney5*hotelincludingbreakfast

Flights SydneytoAucklandincludingmeals,movies,drinks &checkedluggage

Dailyonboardgratuities

• Allairport&porttaxes

CelebritySolstice*

• Depositfrom$2300pp

• Askusaboutprices foralternative departuredates

• Package departs 14 November2023 Book by 7Aprilunlesssold outearlier

CelebrityEdge • Package departs15February2024

Book by 7Aprilunlesssoldout earlier • Depositfrom$900pp

Bethe first to experienceCelebrityEdgeonherfirstseasondown under

TERMS &CONDITIONS:*Validfornewbookingsonly.AllcruisepackagesarebasedonTwinshare,insidecabinandcostsareperperson.Availabilityiscurrentasat15Mar23anddealsareavailableuntildateshownunlesssoldoutearlier.Spaceisstrictlylimitedandissubject toavailabilityof flights,hotelsandcruiseattimeofbooking.Allpassengersareboundbytheindividualcruiselinesterms &conditions,pleaseaskyourconsultantfor afullcopy.NoneRefundableDepositvalueisbasedonroomtypebooked.FinalPaymentisduenolaterthan4 monthspriortodepartureorasshown.Allpassengersmusthave avalidpassportwithmorethan 6monthsvalidityattheendoftheirholiday.Travelinsuranceshouldbetakenoutattimeofbookingtocoverintheeventofanyunforeseencancellation.Includedairfaresarebasedon specialnonrefundableeconomyfares,groundtransfersarenotincludedunlessspecified,anyhotelsincludedarewithbreakfastonlyasspecified,additionalincidentalsareatownexpense.Visasmayberequiredforsomedestinations.Visacostsarenotincluded.Iftravellingona nonNZpassportothervisas +NZre-entrypermitsmayalsoberequired,pleasecheckwithapplicableembassy.AllpassengersmustbefullyvaccinatedagainstCovid19,localhealthregulationsmayapplyforsomedestinationsvisited.OptionalDrinkso

Are youhesitanttoheadawayonholiday?

Kiwiinnovationismaking traveleasierforthoseof uslivingwithlittleleaks.

ForsomeNewZealanders,theidea ofgoingonholidayisanythingbut relaxing.If you’reamongtheonein three womenandonein five menwho pee alittlewhentheysneeze,cough, laughorlift somethingheavy, you mightfeellikeit’ssafertojuststay home. Youmightplan youritinerary aroundaccesstotoiletfacilities, orevendecidenottotake atouror cruisebecauseofallthehygiene products you’dneedtopack.

Now,thankstocleverKiwiingenuity, youdon’thavetolet your weak bladdertakeover yourlife.Kiwi companyConfitexbelievesnobody shouldliveinfearoflife’s littleleaks,

sothey’vecreatedJust’nCase absorbentbriefsfor womenand ConfitexforMenleakprooftrunks. Soldonlyonlineattheofficial website confitex.co.nz,they’rehigh-quality fabricunderwearwiththebonusof adiscreetpanelofConfitex’sworldleadingabsorbentandleakproof textiletechnologyrightwhereit’s neededforprotectionagainstlight bladderleakage.

Designedtobe worneverydayand atnight,theycanbehandormachine washedandlineortumbledried, exactlylikeordinaryundies.

They’retheperfecttravelcompanion if you’relookingforreassuranceon longplanejourneys,orcomfortand conveniencewhen you’resightseeing. Theycomein arangeofstyles, colours,fabricsandsizes –andnow innewdesignsincludingcotton

briefsfor womenandEverydayPlus absorbencylong-legtrunksformen. Initiallyinventedwitheliteendurance athletesinmind,theConfitexforMen andJust’nCase rangesaretheonly absorbentunderwearthathavebeen independently verifiedbyinternational standardslaboratoryULacross arangeofmeasures,including leakproofing,absorbencycapacity, odourresistance,breathability, durabilityandabsenceofpotentially harmfulPFOAandPFOSchemicals. Notonlyareabsorbentunderwear morecomfortable,discreetand environmentallyfriendlythan single-usepadsandguards,but because youwearthemagainand again yousavemoneyinthelongrun. ConfitexCEOChristineArden recommendsbuyingonepairtotest athome wellbefore yourvacation.

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“Incontinencecanbe avery isolatingconditiontolive with.Everyday we hearfrom menand womenwhosayour underwearhasgiventhem theconfidenceandfreedom toliveanactive life.”

Cruising: Newships »

On the horizon

AnnaSarjeant looks forwardtothearrival of fivenewcruiseships launchingfrom2023

Biggerandbetterorsmallandsweet, cruiseshipswoopassengersof everyilk.Let’stake alookatfive newships readytosetsailin2023 andbeyond.

Six-starluxury: Scenic EclipseII

Ifyouhavetheappetiteforsix-staryachtingbut you’renotinclinedtosunbathein aChanelthong andwaitforthepaparazzi,try a“discovery yacht”.Theperfectmeetingofhigh-endluxury andadventurousitineraries.SettingsailonApril 13,ScenicEclipseIIisthemuch-anticipated 114-suiteyachtfromScenicLuxuryCruisesand Tours,combininga deluxe,innovativedesign with10finediningexperiencesandonce-ina-lifetimeexcursionsthatmakefulluseofthe ship’stwohelicoptersandsubmarine.Spacious suitesboastbutlerserviceandverandas,while the550sq mSensesSpaisnothingshyofEden atsea.ScenicEclipseIIwillbegracingthewaters oftheMediterranean,IcelandandScotlandbeforemovingontotheCaribbeanandAntarctica. Whilebangforyourbuckisn’t acommonphrase intheyachtingworld,voyagesareall-inclusive ofinternalflights,transfers,dining,premium beveragesandexcursions.

Foodfantasy:OceaniaCruisesVista

OceaniaCruisespridesitselfonhavingthe “FinestCuisineatSea” and with 12 dining venuesspreadacrossitsnewship, Vista,Oceania’sreputationforculinaryprowesswillonlyprosper. DepartingfromRomeonitsinauguralsailingthisMay,gastronomyisoneofseveralattributes worthyofapplause.Atmaximum capacity,therearelittle morethan 1200guests,twocrewmembersfor everythreepassengersand destination-richitinerariesspanning theglobe.Allthisandwehaven’teven mentionedthe27sq mstandard staterooms—thelargestatsea —and roamingbarcartyet.Thelatteris amobile BubblyBarthatdeliversChampagnecocktails straighttoyou —shouldyoubeuninclinedto lift alegtothenearestbar.Speakingof,there areseven(stationary)barsintotal,includingthe CasinoMixologyBar,whichfocusesontheart ofthecocktail,andTheGrandBarforvintage dropsandsommelier-ledwinetastings.

Aclassic:CunardQueenAnne

It’stheclosestyou’llgettoyesteryear’sexquisite cruiseexperience —establishedin1840,Cunard CruiseLineisawashwithnostalgicreminders of abygoneera,incorporatingblack-tiedinners andballroomgalas,which,comparedwithmost oftoday’smodernships,putsCunardin aleague ofitsown.Thefleet’snewestship,QueenAnne, willdebutinMay2024,upholdingeveryromantic notionyou’dexpectfromthebrand,suchas15 high-enddiningvenuesandThePavilion,with itsretractableglassdomeforstarlitfilm nights,andthePanoramaPoolClubfor scenicswims.In aCunardfirst,modern add-onswillincludetheintroduction of aMediterraneanandIndianrestaurantaswellastheBrightLights Societyentertainmentvenue.But let’snotgetaheadofourselves, Cunard’slong-standingdailyritual ofafternoonteaisstill amust.Enjoy finebonechina, aresidentpianist andwhite-glovedwaiters.

Cutting-edge:CelebrityAscent FromCunardtothoroughlycontemporary,CelebrityCruises’latestadditionisthe fourthshipintheaward-winningEdgeSeries. EmbarkinginDecember2023,CelebrityAscent isanat-seaplaygroundofspas,solariumsand awhopping32foodanddrinkvenues,including 3DtableanimationatLePetitChefand aRooftop GardenGrilllocatedin ashinyglasshouse.Even morecutting-edgeistheMagicCarpet,popular foritselevateddiningarea(13deckshigh)and

soaringviews.ButwhatreallystandsCelebrity apartisTheRetreat, aseparatedivisionofthe shipwherepassengerswho havebookedsuites aregrantedexclusiveamenitiesandservices.A littlelike aship-within-a-ship,guestsofThe Retreatbenefitfromhottubsandsecluded cabanasattheRetreatSundeck,aswellasthe exclusiveRetreatLoungeandprivaterestaurant, Luminae —repositionedatthefrontoftheship, withfloor-to-ceilingviewsand amenucraftedby aMichelin-starchef:onethatyouwon’tfind anywhereelseonboard.

Thewhizz-kid:NorwegianViva

FreshoutoftheboatyardfromNorwegianCruise LineisNorwegianViva.Embarkingonits maidenvoyageinAugust2023,thosefamiliar withhersistership,NorwegianPrima,will recognisemanyofitsfeatures,albeit aboardViva theyseemevenmorecoveted.The3219-passenger shipplayshostto afewworld-firsts,including VivaSpeedway,thefirstthree-levelracetrack ofitskind,andTheDrop,theworld’sfirstfreefalldryslide.Getreadyforyourderrieretozip down adistanceequivalentto10storeys.Ifyou havekidsofthecompetitivekind,there’salso TheRush:daringtwinslidesdesignedforracing. Uppingtheculinaryante,brandnewdining experiencessuchasHudson’s,withitspanoramicviews,andPalomar,thecruiseline’sfirsteverMediterraneanseafoodrestaurant,will keepyourtastebudstantalised.Thenthere’sthe 4090sq mOceanBoulevardwalkway.Wrapping itswayaroundtheentireship,it’sperfectfor workingoffyournewly-madepaunch.

Above: ScenicEclipseIIwill sailthewatersofAntarctica inpureluxury;below, NorwegianCruiseLine features a10-storeyslide

SO UTH ES CA PE TO TH E

FI VE MU ST VI SI TA TT RA CT ION SI NT HE SO UTH IS LA ND

1 FableTerrace DownsResort(Canterbury)

VisitFable TerraceDowns Resort,aluxurious getawaynestled in theheart of New Zealand's South Island.Situated at thefootofthe SouthernAlps, theresortboastsstunning viewsofthe surrounding mountainsand the CanterburyPlains.

Kick your feet up in your spacious villa, beautifullyfurnished with modern amenities andluxurytouches.The resort offers arange of activitiestokeepyou entertained,fromtrying your hand at archerytoswinging on the18-hole championship golf course

TheClubhouse Restaurantand Barisahighlight of theresort, featuring seasonal menus showcasing localingredients and flavours. The restaurant'sdining room boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, providingguestswith breathtaking viewsofthe mountainswhile they dine

Theever-changing landscapeactsasthe perfect playgroundfor visitors of allages andmakes Fable TerraceDowns Resorta captivating year-round holidaydestination forthrill-seekersand those whoenjoymore laidback pursuits

2 Wilsons Abel Tasman (Tasman)

Escape,reviveand reconnectwith the importantthingsinlife: friends, family and nature

Chooseguided or self-guided walking, boat cruising and guided seakayaking with Wilsons Abel Tasman.All youneed to do is gettoNelson. TheWilsons team takescare of everything from there. Delicious meals cooked foryou.Noheavypacktocarry

At theend of each day, come home forahot shower in your ensuiteroom at

3 Oamaru Blue PenguinColony(Waitaki)

oneofthe Wilsonfamily’scomfortable beachfront lodges:Torrent Bay Lodge andMeadowbank HomesteadatAwaroa. Three-day trips stay one nightateach lodge. Five-day trips have twonightsat each lodge, allowing moretimetorelax or exploreregions of thenational park that many visitors don’tget to see

If you’re short of time,WilsonsAbel Tasman offers afullrange of half-day and full-day trips into thenational park

4 Event-fullDunedin(Dunedin)

Dunedin’sevent calendar is packed with showstopping events forthe whole family

Set in thewildlifecapital of New Zealand, Wild Dunedinisafamilyfriendly10-day nature spectacularshowcasing Dunedin’s wildlife,landand sea. With over100 events from inspirational to educational,walksto talks. Theiconic iD DunedinFashionShow returnstothe DunedinRailway Station (31March –April 1) with runway creations from locals to international up-andcomers. Catchsomedust-flying, gravelgrinding action at theOtago Rally(31 March–April 1),aslocal and international competitors tackle theruggedroads andlushlandscapesofOtago.After the adrenaline of theRally,stick aroundfor theT20 matchbetween theBlack Caps andSri Lanka at University Oval (5 April).If that’s notenough,with Otepotiasthe only officialhostcityinthe South Island,some of theworld’s best footballers will descend

on Dunedinfrom22July–1August, to compete in thelargestfemale sporting event in theworld,the FIFA Women’s World Cup2023.

Be captivated by thenightly arrivalof little penguins/korora at theOamaruBlue Penguin Colony,only5minutes from Oamaru township.Visitorsduring theday cansee penguinsinsidetheir nestsorattend the mainattractionafter sunsetand watchthe penguinsreturnfromtheir dayfishing at sea. Thepenguinsarriveingroups from seaand then waddle up agentleslope to their nestswithin theprotected breeding

area. TheColonyhas astrongresearch andconservation focus, and visitors will learnaboutthe important work and results from research carriedout onsite that helps to protectthe penguins. TheColony’s conservation workis100% funded by ticket revenue so avisit to this attractionwill directly contribute to supporting thepenguins. Open everynight of theyear, visit www.penguins.co.nztofind outmore.

5 Speight's Brewery (Dunedin)

Speight’sare theoldestoperational Brewery in New Zealand,and theonlysite to have ahistoricBrewFloor and stateof theart Breweryhoused within the same location

TheSpeight’s Brewery is also the spiritual homeofNew Zealand’s biggest beer brand,attracting around 10,000 visitors per yeartoexperiencethe “Pride of theSouth”; as one of Dunedin’smost populartouristattractions

During their40-minute tour,guestswill learnaboutthe historyofthisiconic Brewery; touch, smelland tastetheir waythrough their Heritage building before finishing up in the Tasting Room fora20-minuteBeer Tasting –theywill even show youhow to pour the perfect beer

Their Brewery Shoprange includes an extensivecollectionofSpeight’s merchandise andthe CellarDooroffersthe ability to purchase beer directly from theBrewery

NEXTWEEK ...

AheadofEasterWeekend,we’retaking atriptoJerusalem,Israel’sHolyCity, whereourwriter —whogrewupthere —givesa guidedtourofthecity’sbest foodspotsforvisitors.Findoutmore intheApril 4issueof Travel,insidethe NewZealandHerald, BayofPlenty Times, NorthernAdvocate, Rotorua DailyPost and WhanganuiChronicle

NationalPark

•TrailwalkthroughtheHimalayas

•Shimlasightseeingcitytour

LuxuryHotelStays

•Five-starhotelstaysinSingapore,Delhi, Agra,RanthamboreNationalPark, JaipurandShimlawithbreakfast

All flights,taxesandtransfers

*Wildlifesightingsarenotguaranteed.

Yourholidayincludes RailJourney

•3 nightall-inclusiverailjourneyon boardtheIndianPacificfromSydney toPerthwithallmeals, finewines, andbeverages

•All-inclusiveOff TrainExperiencesand shortstopsinBrokenHill,Adelaide, CookandRawlinna

HotelStays

•1 nightfour-starhotelstayinSydney withbreakfast

•5 nightfour-starhotelstayinPerth withbreakfast

FullyEscortedTours

•FulldaySwanValleygourmetfood andwinecruiseincluding amodern grazingtablelunch,winetastingand exclusivebehind-the-scenestourof thewinery.

•HalfdayPerthandFremantle explorertour

•A RottnestIslanddaytourwitha coachtouraroundtheisland

All flightsandtaxes