NZH Travel - 13th March 2018

IT’S

EVEN BETTER

THAN YOU REMEMBER

BULA - IT’S EVEN BETTER THAN YOU REMEMBER

HEAVEN FOR GROWN-UPS Honeymoons. Babymoons.

Renewals of vows or just get-aways-from-it-all with your significant other: Fiji offers an ever-increasing collection of luxurious sanctuaries for grownups.

Sandbank Mamanuca Islands

Some, like the Waitui Beach Club at Sofitel Resort & Spa Fiji at Denarau and Koro at the Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa, are handily located next to the family-oriented areas of resorts. Others are secluded island hideaways that are best reached by seaplane or helicopter and are strictly reserved for grownups.

Ten minutes by seaplane from Nadi in the Mamanuca Islands, Vomo Island Resort is celebrated as the best spot in the South Pacific to watch the sun go down – with cocktails and a soundtrack of soft waves on sand.

Further afield, Koro Sun Resort at Savusavu on Vanua Levu is home to Fiji's first and only floating bures, which come complete with a two-person kayak tied to your private deck.

FIJI'S ECO-LUXURIOUS OUTER ISLANDS

Below: Mana Sandbank, Mamanuca.

Below: Couple snorkel in Yasawa Islands.

Until recently, most visitors to the secluded islands of the Vanua Levu group north of Viti Levu were keen adventurers or global celebrities with a knack for finding the most beautiful places in the world. Now, this lush and still largely untouched part of Fiji has also become home to some of its most exclusive retreats and resorts

IF YOU ARE ALREADY IN LOVE WITH FIJI, ITS PRISTINE NORTHERN ISLANDS WILL MAKE IT HAPPEN ALL OVER AGAIN. Eco-consciousness is interwoven with luxury on Qamea Resort and Spa Fiji on Qamea Island. The resort offers “barefoot luxury” in a setting that feels like an undiscovered paradise.”

On the garden island of Fiji, award winning luxury resort Taveuni Palms spoils their guests with exquisite resort and spa facilities. Guests can enjoy an authentic Fijian holiday experience with the ability to dive, snorkel and swim straight off the resort’s beach.

And at all-inclusive Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort at Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu , everything seems to have been thought of, right down to a private island. If you are already in love with Fiji, its pristine northern islands will make it happen all over again.

FIVE GREAT THINGS TO DO AS A COUPLE 1

Ever dreamed of waking up in an overwater Bure on a beautiful tropical lagoon? Experience it for real at Likuliku Lagoon Resort Fiji on Malolo Island in the Mamanuca Islands.

2

Indulge in a private picnic on your very own sand cay. One of the must do activities from Royal Davui Island Resort and other resorts in Fiji. This remote picnic spot provides you with a few hours alone with your loved one.

3

Try every tropical cocktail on the menu at one of the adults-only beach clubs in Fiji. Malamala Beach Club, the world’s first island beach club, recently opened in the crystal-clear waters of the Mamanuca Islands to rave reviews.

4

Relax together at one of the award-winning spas in Fiji. Most resorts have their own set in tranquil surrounds and offer a selection of treatments using local ingredients all aimed to nourish and rejuvenate the body.

5

For the adventure couple, enjoy an adrenaline rush on a jetski safari in the Mamanuca Islands, white water rafting in Pacific Harbour or a quad-bike ride through Nadi and the back country.

BULA - IT’S EVEN BETTER THAN YOU REMEMBER

PARADISE FOR KIDS

If there was ever a tropical paradise designed for families it's Fiji. Wherever you go, from Nadi to the outermost islands there is wonderful swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and boat rides and brilliant green rainforests with colourful parrots and native birds.

Many Fijian resorts cater specifically for families with kid-friendly pools and water slides, family-friendly restaurants, kids clubs, nannies, playgrounds and family-oriented accommodation.

Fiji is also a family-focused culture and kids are cherished and doted upon. The local littlies also seem to have an inbuilt friendship gene and your kids will be quickly absorbed into their games.

Fiji’s top family holiday hotspots are at Denarau near Nadi, the Coral Coast on the southern coast of Viti Levu, and the Mamanuca Islands offshore from Port Denarau.

All ready to become part of your kids’ fondest travel memories.

FIJI'S FABULOUS KIDS CLUBS One of the great attractions of Fiji for families is the free kids clubs at many family-friendly resorts. Often considered to be the best kids clubs in the South Pacific, their standards are universally high.

Family Bilibili ride, Mamanuca Islands.

Family fish feeding, Yasawa Islands.

FIVE

COOL PLACES TO GO WITH KIDS

Kula Wild Adventure Park, Coral Coast.

Paddleboarding, Fiji Islands.

1

Have a critter encounter at Kula Wild Adventure Park near Sigatoka on the Coral Coast. At this 28-hectare centre for the captive breeding of endangered species set in a peaceful rainforest environment you'll meet rare Fijian iguanas, turtles and colourful native birds. Kula also has waterslides.

2

Plantation Island Resort’s waterpark consists of six action-packed modules including the iconic action tower and an innovative spring-free aqua trampoline.

3

On the Coral Coast, award-winning Sigatoka River Safari offers jet boat tours that provide a rich experience of the area’s natural beauty, history and authentic look at Fijian village life.

The kids will have a ball with the local children as they play games and kick the football around.

4

Get involved in the Hawksbill Turtle Conservation Program at Treasure Island Fiji.

There are daily feeding displays and weekly talks by the resident Environment Team. Kids have the opportunity to help out with finding forage for the turtles and other fun activities.

5

Find Nemo on a semi-submersible cruise at South Sea Island. The stunning underwater world of this marine sanctuary in the Mamanuca Islands is only 30 minutes from Denarau.

Family-friendly resorts offer a variety of kids club programmes for children from 3 or 4 years up to early teens, and babies and toddlers are cared for by a meimei (nanny) service. Most kids clubs run well into the evening and babysitting is also easily arranged. The jewel in the crown of Fiji's kids clubs of course are Fijian people: they are gifted carers who adore children and love spending time with them.

Unsurprisingly, kids clubs are very popular with parents: while the little ones are being entertained in safe hands, it's time for mum and dad to enjoy a cocktail or a romantic meal or a spa treatment or just leisurely watch the sun go down.

Family friendly kids club.

BULA - IT’S EVEN BETTER THAN YOU REMEMBER

Warriors beating lali at Pearl Resort, Pacific Harbour.

Welcome, Mamanuca Islands.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE There’s a case to be made that the Fijian names “Denarau”, "Mamanuca” and “Coral Coast” are now part of Kiwi English: for more than two generations these beautiful coastal and island group destinations have become a huge part of New Zealanders’ holiday memories.

FIJIAN HOSPITALITY

The good news is that your old favourites, regularly refreshed and enhanced, are still there and in recent years they’ve been joined by new regions and properties that are destined to become icons in their own right.

Sigatoka River Safari jetboat

It's friendly. Fijians are renowned for their big smiles and warm hospitality. You’ll lose track of how many times you say "Bula!" (Hello). Warm welcomes are part of Fijian life – nurturing the young and welcoming all with open arms.

CLOSE AND EASY

Fiji's national carrier, Fiji Airways, offers direct flights twice-daily from Auckland to Nadi, two flights a week from Christchurch and one from Wellington. Air New Zealand also flies direct from Auckland to Nadi ten times a week, with connections New Zealand-wide. New Zealand passport-holders do not require a Fiji visa.

And speaking of easy, in the time it takes to pack the car, load the kids and battle through the traffic to the bach you can instead sit back and watch an in-flight movie, enjoy lunch and arrive in time for cocktails by the pool. You will still be on New Zealand time, except for one hour during daylight savings. Relax and leave your watch at home.

From the moment you step off the plane their song and dance will be heard throughout your stay, making you feel relaxed and at ease.

www.fiji.travel

travel Too many tourists » p52-p53 Air NZ’s Antarctic video » p55

MARCH 13, 2018

Bath s u l P

d Great roaall trips and to you neede Covi th know forrhome Moto . show

The best of Fiji for families and adventurers » p12-p17

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travel

6 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

My Holiday: Dr Christian Jessen

From the Travel Editor

Picture / Supplied

Limits to freedom

Tourism Minister Kelvin Davis has been hearing tales of woe from the regions about freedom campers. Bushes being used as toilets, undies being washed in drinking fountains and other obnoxious behaviour.

Davis is convening a working group to look at law changes that could be up to 18 months away from becoming legislation.

I have little sympathy for visitors who defile and disrespect any place they visit, but maybe we should try improving the infrastructure. Set up places that freedom campers can wash, clean their undies and use the toilets without breaking the law. Maybe they’d stick around a bit longer and spend a little more in the local community.

And let’s not forget, Kiwis have been freedom camping for years in Europe. To read Natalie Akoorie’s piece on van tours, go to p24.

— winston.aldworth@nzherald.co.nz

Contacts Editor: Winston Aldworth Deputy Editor: Stephanie Holmes Travel Writers: Eli Orzessek, Thomas Bywater Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Sub-editors: Isobel Marriner, Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Picture Researcher: Ellie Hutchinson Cover: Fiji Picture: Getty Images Stories: p12-p17 Editorial: Phone (09) 373 6400, ext. 98242 Email: travel@nzherald.co.nz Online: nzherald.co.nz/travel Advertising: Sandy Kilgour, phone 021 489 819; Email: sandy.kilgour@nzme.co.nz

What was your greatest holiday?This is one of those impossible questions, like “what is your favourite film?”

I have so many great holiday memories. I’m much more of a city-break kind of guy, rather than a lyingon-the-beach-doing-nothing one. So trips to New York, Verona, Mexico City all come to mind.

Recently I’ve discovered the joys of cruises: wake up each morning in a different place with a different city to explore, and no packing and unpacking, or travel (that you are aware of any way!)

And the worst? It has to be a school “trip” doesn’t it?

To somewhere grim in France probably. I am a banquet for mosquitoes too, so if it’s a holiday in a country with

All prices in editorial content are in New Zealand dollars, unless specified.

biting insects I will spend most of it scratching and counting the bites.

If we bump into you on holiday, what are you most likely to be doing? Looking at stuff. Shops, galleries, shows etc. Or reading.

If we could teleport you to one place in New Zealand for a week-long holiday, where would it be? Gosh, beggars can’t be choosers can we?! I’d be grateful for anywhere. Why? Are you offering…?

How about for a dream holiday internationally?

Somewhere like Madagascar or Borneo must be wonderful.

What’s the dumbest thing you’ve ever done when travelling? Left my Yellow Fever Vaccination certificate at home when travelling to Uganda. I know that probably doesn’t sound the dumbest thing but it’s a legal requirement and as a doctor who works in infectious disease I ought to have known better!

Aisle seat or window seat? Aisle. I’m a control freak and cannot bear to be trapped in by someone… (although that’s not usually a problem in First Class.

Joke!)

Complete this sentence: I can’t travel without . . .

My Yellow Fever Certificate, my Yellow Fever Certificate, my Yellow Fever Certificate…

What’s the best travel tip you’ve ever been given?

If you see something you love, buy it. You will never go back otherwise and will regret it for ever more.

What was the most memorable meal you’ve had while travelling? It was a huge, many-coursed tasting Christian Jessen menu in one of Italy’s finest restaurants. Extraordinary. hosts Embarrassing What’s the best thing you’ve brought back from Bodies Specials: Changing a trip? My partner. After waiting for a year for their Sex & Old Bodies, on Sky visa application to be dealt with. Absence makes the Channel 75, on Fridays from heart grow fonder and all that!

March 23, at 7.30pm.

Favourite airport to land at? City Airport in London. From landing I can be home in 20 minutes.

What’s the next trip you’ve got planned?

It’s a cruise to see the Norwegian fjords. I’m giving a lecture on the cruise so strictly speaking it’s work, but it isn’t really. And they look spectacular.

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FLIGHTS + HOTELS + BONUS OFFERS - www.OURPACIFIC.CO.Nz/RARO FOR mORE DETAILS & DEALS TERMS & CONDITIONS: YOUR PAYMENTS TO OUR WORLD LTD ARE PROTECTED BY TAANZ. Unless otherwise stated, prices include return seat & 23kg checked baggage economy class airfares flying Virgin Australia from Auckland including prepayable airline surcharges, levies and airport taxes, share twin/double accommodation, and inclusions as specified. Special conditions apply for all Bonus Inclusions. Valid for travel commenced & completed as specified – refer to our website for other travel dates. Must be booked by 20 Mar 2018 with airfares paid within 72 hours of confirmation, and no later than 21 March 2018. Prices are in NZ dollars and are for payment by cash, eftpos or cheque only – QCard & credit card prices on application. Airfares and accommodation may not be available on all services and room categories, and capacity restrictions may apply. Amendment and cancellation fees do apply and airfares are non-refundable, non-transferable, and name changes are not permitted – please contact us for details. Prices were correct as of 08 Mar 2018 and are subject to change without notification and other conditions may apply. ^Our ‘from’ prices are indicative & seasonal & may vary for your chosen travel dates – refer to our website.

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 7

Check-in Desk

travel@nzherald.co.nz

What we’ve learned in this week’s

travel

The Bunya Mountains, in southern Queensland, get their name from the type of pine that dominates their forested slopes.

Travel bugs » p10 Governors, in Suva, is Fiji’s only museum-themed restaurant, and is housed in an old colonial estate near the swanky Government House, the Georgian mansion that’s home to Frank Bainimarama.

Pacific Islands » p14-p15

If you’re looking to do a photo tour for your African safari, you’ll find they don’t operate on an 8am-to5pm schedule. They depart when lighting is at its best, the so-called “golden hours” of early morning and late afternoon. That also happens to be when temperatures are more comfortable.

Africa » p26-p27

Picture / Supplied

DOS and DON’TS of van touring

If you want to travel in comfort when you’re on the Interislander, it’s worth paying the $55 for lounge access — there’s a peaceful space with Wi-Fi, blankets, a continuous buffet and all manner of refreshments, including a bar stocking some top-quality local wines and craft beers.

Road trips » p20-p21

The Caminito del Rey (“the king’s little pathway”) in the Spanish province of Malaga is often billed as “the most dangerous walkway in the world”. After fatalities, it was blocked off from the public for 15 years before being reopened in safer form in 2015.

Europe » p38 The Builder’s Arms, in South Kensington, London, is a child-friendly and inexpensive pub at which to dine. Travel with kids » p42-p43 Cruise ship staff sometimes use coded language to avoid alarming passengers. On board Royal Caribbean ships, a “30-30” means a mess needs to be cleaned, “PVI” is “public vomiting incident”, “Alpha” is a medical emergency, “Bravo” is a fire while “Oscar” means someone’s gone overboard.

Cruising » p46-p47

Natalie Akoorie — pictured with friends — shares her top tips for the classic Kiwi O.E. tour DO make a “team uniform”, bright-coloured T-shirts with some kind of logo.

DON’T bother stocking up on booze in the UK. It’s dirt cheap and easily accessible in Europe.

DON’T freecamp at night when you can’t see where you are setting up, like one van-load of Kiwis who woke up one morning on what they thought was a lovely grass verge the night before, but was actually the middle of a busy city roundabout.

DO get amongst it. Try to meet locals

and get off the beaten track. Hop across to Morocco from Gilbratar if you can, head to the Cinque Terre in Italy, and Croatia in Eastern Europe. We watched a wedding in Spain, went to an out-of-theway tapas bar — which by the way are not anything like tapas in New Zealand — and drank homemade sangria.

Travel lines I love travelling by canoe. I think it’s the most elegant way of travelling. Canoes, as it’s been said before, are the finest human invention.

Ray Mears

According to the latest UNWTO World Tourism Barometer, global tourist arrivals grew by 6.4 percent to June 2017, compared to a growth of 3.9 per cent in 2016. There are around 292 million people worldwide employed in jobs created through tourism. Opinion » p52-p53

DO swim at Lagos, Portugal in a wetsuit For more on van tours, see p24

or at a theme park. The weather is boiling hot and the water on the Algarve is anklenumbing freezing.

Fiji Airways’ new lounge in Nadi gets the thumbs up from Stephanie Holmes.

Flight Check » p54-p55

DON’T be feral. Don’t add to the throng

The Mercure Hotel, King George Square, in Brisbane, is often used by visiting NRL footy sides when they’re playing at nearby Suncorp Stadium.

When Belinda Feek stayed, she had the North Queensland Cowboys as fellow guests.

Room Check » p56-p57

of Kiwis and Aussies giving antipodeans a bad name in Europe.

— Natalie Akoorie

Where we are

.

What I love el ..... about travel right now r

Dennis Payne De

Owner operator, Ow House of Travel, Orewa Ho

by ers of the Fiji Sevens Rug Eli Orzessek met memb . ort Res ch Bea ng Uprisi team while staying at the n... soo ing com is eck His Room Ch

So often we are go, go, go in ou our travels, awa away for weeks, coming home exhausted, albeit all the fo mo more worldly for the experiences. I’ve got in the habit of organising a cruise in the middle, a chance ha to catch your breath, forget about getting from point a to b, and to unpack all your bags for the po week at once. I would highly recommend a Royal we Caribbean Cruise from Barcelona to Barcelona Ca (taking in Marseille, Monaco, Livorno, Civitavecchia (t and Naples). I had cruised a little bit before I did an this, but this converted me into a cruise buff. I th loved taking in the sights from the balcony and lo wandering off at my own pace in each port. wa

travel

8 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

?

Ask Away

Eli Orzessek finds the answers to your travel questions

Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern arriving in Tonga.

Picture / Getty Images

Send your queries by email to askaway @nzherald.co.nz Eli cannot answer all questions and cannot correspond with readers

I see our pregnant PM is travelling in the Pacific. Are Zika warnings still in effect — is it safe for pregnant women and those trying for a baby to travel to the islands?

Chris We haven’t been hearing much about Zika recently, however, warnings do still stand.

MFAT’s SafeTravel website lists Fiji and American Samoa as having Zika virus infections. However, according to the CDC, it’s also been reported in Samoa and Tonga. The same advice stands — if you’re pregnant and must travel, take strict precautions to avoid mosquito bites and practice safe sex.

CORT TOUR

ED

Inclusions: • Return Economy International flights ex Auckland • City tours in Zagreb, Ljubljana, Sarajevo, Montenegro and Dubrovnik • Seven-night exclusive cruise on board m/s ‘Adriatic Queen’ • Nine sightseeing tours in Mijet National Park, Korčula, Hvar, Split, Trogir, Sibenik, Krka National Park, Kornati National Park and Zadar • Tour Escort and much more

might find yourself pleasantly surprised. The Book of Mormon is extremely popular — and it’s booked out until November, so you may be out of luck there. If you’re looking for something funny, Kinky Boots could be a good option.

Readers respond: Jane Grant wrote in regarding noisy children on

ES

I’m planning a trip to New York. One of the things I really want to do while we’re there is take in a Broadway show. I’m open to anything, but one I’d really like to see is The Book of Mormon. Do you have tips for booking tickets?

Anna A Broadway show is definitely a must-do if you’re in New York. I’ve asked my contact at Broadway Inbound for some tips on booking — they organise tickets for groups of travellers.

T ake advantage of quieter periods during key holidays and events to score tickets to popular shows — for example, Halloween or New Year’s Eve — the crowds will be out doing other things, but Broadway goes on.

You’ll also want to get to know Broadway’s schedule — many shows are closed or only perform once on Monday and Tuesday, whereas shows are often booked out on Friday, Saturday and Sunday (despite many offering three performances a day). Wednesday and Thursday are a good option, many shows offer two performances, yet you are unlikely to face the big weekend crowds.

If you don’t end up booking in advance, make sure you have a Plan B. Broadway shows are very popular with both locals and visitors. But if you’re more spontaneous and find your chosen show is sold out, try a less hyped option — you

long flights: “Society contains all kinds of people, including children and those who don’t like them.

What are the options? Family-only flights, adultonly flights? If you think flying is expensive now, how much more so it would become with segregated trips.

“Flying with children is way harder than flying without them, but this is true of most tasks.

However, how will children learn to be part of society, with its supermarkets, waiting rooms and airplanes, unless they are exposed to it?”

I agree. Even if kids were somehow banned from flights, do people really expect flying would be a perfectly comfortable experience otherwise?

The most annoying passenger I’ve ever experienced was an old man who complained loudly all the way from Guangzhou to Auckland.

A crying child would have been preferable.

Ian Robertson of Vostok Travel Division wrote in regarding Russian visas — his company has processed them for 15 years.

Interested travellers can check out vostok.co.nz for more information.

Croatia

including a 7-night exclusive cruise 16 September - 08 October 2018

Highlights:• Cruise the Dalmatian Islands on your new 30 passenger motor cruiser for seven magical days • Hunt for truffles in Istria • Promenade in the elegant resort town of Opatia • Walk in Plitvice Lakes National Park • Relax at Lake Bled – Slovenia • Relive history at Sarajevo and Mostar •The walled city of Dubrovnik • Walk the cobbled streets of Split and visit Montenegro

Toll Free: 0800 785 386 | Email: tours@pukekohe-travel.co.nz | www.pukekohetravel.co.nz/croatia

P U K E K O H E T R AV E L

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 9

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NATURAL WONDERS

Deal of the week West Coast wonders

A Gems of Iceland tour, discounted by 10 per cent for bookings made by March 31, is a six-day adventure on which you’ll explore natural wonders ranging from glaciers and geo-thermal areas to lakes, majestic waterfalls and roaring rivers. Set departures between May and late October are priced from $4519pp. Tour highlights include a cruise to see whales in their natural habitat and a visit to Lake Jokulsarlon — the deepest lake in Iceland. This coach-tour is fullyguided and departs from Reykjavik and includes the whale-watching cruise, plus all breakfasts and evening dinners.

Contact: your own travel agent or Globus Tours, 0800 000 883 or globustours.co.nz

The West Coast of the US is covered on a 12-day tour of its impressive landscapes and national parks to evenings exploring buzzing cities. Priced from $2639pp, twin share, a Cosmos Western Wonders Tour includes a visit to the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona and Yosemite National Park in California, and sightseeing in Los Angeles and San Francisco. The tour departs from L.A. and heads to Palm Springs and Las Vegas. There are set departure dates between May and late October.

Contact: your own travel agent or Cosmos Tours, 0800 000 883 or cosmostours.co.nz

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Az good as it gets

Over nine nights, sail from Rome to Barcelona aboard Azamara Journey, and yo travel mate sails for half the fare price your whi for you, starts at $4309, twin share. which, The cruise begins at Civitavecchia in Rome Octobe 6 and sets out for Livorno, Portofino, on October Elba, Sorrento, Amalfi, Sicily and Sardinia before finishing in Barcelona, Spain. Your fare includes accommodation in an Inside cabin, one AzAmazing Evening in a selected port, and all beverages including selected beer, wine and spirits served throughout the voyage. Book by March 31.

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Thai tranquillity

sp Bu ac sI e I ne Inc s l ss lu Im cl d It as es ed s , B FlI oo gh k ts no w !

Near the top of Koh Samui in Thailand is the tranquil Secret Buddha Garden, often referred to as The Magic Garden. Built by a local Durian farmer in the 1970s, it’s a refreshing walk with hidden statues along its trails and a waterfall at the garden’s end. Add this destination to your itinerary when you book an eight-night accommodation and return airfares package from Auckland, priced from $1399pp, twin share. Daily buffet breakfasts are included.

Travel from Wellington starts at $1545 or, from Christchurch, $1589. Book by March 19. A variety of travel periods are available in May and June.

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Blue lagoon Moorea’s lagoon waters are crystal-clear and home to shark ge, and ray-feeding demonstrations. A seven-night March package, including return Air Tahiti Nui airfares from Auckland to Papeete, is priced from $2379pp, twin-share. You’ll stay for five e nights at the four-star Manava Beach Resort and Spa Moorea in n n a Garden View Room with buffet breakfast, travel by catamaran Moorea, and spend a night — before and after your Moorea stay — at Manava Suite Resort Tahiti. Travel by the end of this month. Book by March 29.

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travel

10 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

bugs travel

bugs on

A weekly ode to the joys of moaning about your holiday,

by Tim Roxborogh

M Bo ax u im tiq um ue 15 Tou Gu rs es ts

Americans and their group vacation T-shirts We don’t really do group T-shirts in New Zealand. Maybe the occasional stag do, but beyond sporting events, the notion of “Hey, we’re all going on holiday together, let’s get some T-shirts printed up”, doesn’t really exist. In the US of A though? Well! Whether it’s family vacations to historic sites in Washington DC or theme-park hopping in California, don’t forget the T-shirts.

It could be the “Wilson Family Vacation To Disneyland 2018” or the “West Milwaukee St Andrews Presbyterian Church Retreat To Washington DC 2009” or “Cindy And Jim’s 40th Wedding Anniversary 2014”. No matter the occasion, if you’re an American it has to be marked with a group T-shirt. And that T-shirt must be worn every day of the holiday, suggesting multiple copies of the exact shirt for all members.

I love the States, but group T-shirts have such an earnest dorkiness I can’t believe they’re still a thing in 2018. Though in a fast-changing, sometimes scary world, there are perhaps worse things than earnest dorkiness.

Ideally, earnest dorkiness will survive the coming decades and the group holiday T-shirts will perish. May it be so.

Being scared to be alone in the Bunya Mountains Is it embarrassing I still get a little anxious if I’m by myself in a big house? Bunya Mountains, west of Brisbane, 2016 and I was in one of the most naturally beautiful parts of Australia I’d ever seen. The Bunya Mountains get their name from the type of pine that dominates these forested slopes and the combination of cool mountain air, lush rainforest and views for miles make this a mustvisit when in southern Queensland.

Travelling without the mighty fine lady who’d later become my wife, I was all alone in a four-bedroom cottage. Surrounded by wallabies and forest and not a whole lot else, I must’ve checked the locks on the doors and windows about 10 times.

By all accounts, the Bunya Mountains are not a high

crime area, so what was I worried about?

It dawned on me that years spent living in small innercity apartments had left me ill-equipped for the psychological leap to being on your own in a large property. I was in such an enchanting place — the cottage was A-grade cute — and on high alert for any hint of a noise. Wind in the trees? Freak out! I rang my soonto-be wife and did my best impersonation of a frightened little boy. She calmed me somewhat and miraculously this episode evidently didn’t dissuade her from marrying me. Ridiculously, if she’d been there I doubt I’d have been scared at all.

Tim Roxborogh hosts Newstalk ZB’s The Two, Coast Soul on iHeartRadio and writes the RoxboroghReport.com

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Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 11

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travel

12 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Pacific Islands

»

New horizons Stephanie Holmes finds 10 reasons to love Fiji’s outer islands

1

ISLAND HOPPING There are 40 islands in the Yasawa and Mamanuca chains, so don’t restrict yourself to visiting just one. Getting between them is easy with the Yasawa Flyer, a high-speed catamaran operated by Awesome Adventures Fiji. It travels daily from Port Denarau to the top of the Yasawas, and the northernmost resort, Blue Lagoon, before heading back again, picking up and dropping off passengers at 27 resorts, twice daily.

Pre-book your journey or buy a Bula Pass (5, 7, 10, 12 and 15-day passes available) which allows you to decide your schedule as you go.

Go to the furthest point north first and work your way back; the initial ferry trip will be a good few hours but after that you’ll be looking at trips of an hour at most to get between islands and resorts, so you can hop around without eating into too much of your time on the ground.

Be aware that, although incredibly scenic, the journey can be quite choppy, so consider taking anti-seasickness medication before you travel.

2

SNORKELLING With warm tropical waters, high visibility and an abundance of coral reef systems, the snorkelling here is some of the best in the world.

At many resorts, you can just step off the beach and be surrounded by colourful tropical fish before you’ve even got your flippers on. At Barefoot Manta and Mantaray Island resorts, I was blown away by the snorkelling experience. It felt like I was in a giant tropical aquarium, and the vibrancy of the fish and coral was outstanding. Not to be missed.

3

A reef shark over Moua reef, near Kuata and Waya Lailai Islands in the Yasawas.

Picture / Stephanie Holmes

LEARNING TO DIVE Most resorts in the Yasawa Chain have on-site dive schools where you can do everything from the most basic introductory dives, right up to becoming fully certified, with highly qualified and experienced instructors.

I’d always wondered what the point of diving was, when you can see amazing things just by snorkelling. But after my two introductory dive sessions at Barefoot Manta and Mantaray, I was

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hooked. It’s a tranquil and awe-inspiring experience.

SWIMMING WITH MANTA RAYS Visit the island chain between May and October and you’ll get the chance to swim or dive with manta rays. The graceful giants glide through the channel between Nanuya Balavu and Drawaqa Islands daily during this season, and they are often fascinated with swimmers, giving you the chance to get up close while they flip and feed on plankton beneath you.

Day tours are available from Denarau, or stay on Barefoot Manta and Mantaray Island to be as close to their path as possible.

4 5

GETTING FACE TO FACE WITH SHARKS Once you’ve found Dory and Nemo, graduate on to more adventurous snorkelling excursions.

Black and white tip reef sharks can be found around Moua Reef, near Kuata and Waya Lailai Islands, and they’re totally safe to get in the water with.

After a 30-minute boat ride from Barefoot Kuata resort, I spent about 40 minutes in the

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 13

Yasawa Islands

Vanua Levu

Fiji Suva

Viti Levu

Pacific Ocean

Checklist FIJI

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Clockwise: The best sunset ever, as seen from Beachcomber Island (main); the Yasawas from above; relaxing on Mantaray Island; Beachcomber Island, in the Mamanucas; Stephanie Holmes on an intro scuba dive in Fiji. Pictures / Stephanie Holmes; Getty Images

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SUNSETS On my penultimate night in Fiji, I sat on a rock at Barefoot Kuata, drinking a pina colada and watching the colours of the sky as the sun went down. I took countless photos as the light changed every minute. I couldn’t believe the beauty in front of me; it was the best sunset I’d ever seen. What could possibly top that? Well, the next night — the last of my trip — I stepped outside my room at Beachcomber Island, Fiji Gold in hand, and was left speechless by an even more magical sunset. It seems that in Fiji, each day is better than the last.

PARTYING Once you’ve got the relaxing out of your system, how about a late-night party? Keen? Then Beachcomber Island is your next port of call. In the Mamanuca chain, it’s about an hour from Denarau and legendary on the backpacker circuit. It has huge dorms, a massive bar and regular activities, and encourages its visitors to have a really good time, at all times. There are four different happy hours throughout the day — the first at midday — and the bar stays open until 2am. After that, guests can bring their own duty-free alcohol to the bar

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MASSAGES Though an hour’s full body massage for $34 sounds too good to be true, it’s really not — that was the blackboard rate at Beachcomber Island. Other resorts offer similar great value beachside massages, where the sound of the waves and breeze in the palms adds to the experience.

8

HIKING MOUNTAINS The volcanic Yasawa Islands also offer great hiking opportunities — climb a summit for sunrise or sunset to get incredible panoramic views of the surrounding islands and out across the South Pacific.

Some resorts offer guided hikes but at Barefoot Kuata I went out on my own before breakfast and though the walk was tough, with steep uphills and rugged terrain, it was a rewarding way to start the day. It also gave me license to lie in a hammock doing nothing for the rest of the day.

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RELAXING Look, even the most active travellers need time to relax too. These islands are just made for gently swinging in a hammock under the shade of a tree, alternating between reading a good book and snoozing; reading, swaying, snoozing, ad infinitum. Remember to wear sunscreen; even on a cloudy day the sun is very strong and you don’t want to end up like the European tourists wearing their sunburn like a badge of honour.

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water above the outer reef, teeming with tropical fish and colourful coral, and it wasn’t long before a few sharks were circling below us. I was tentative at first, but after a while I found myself swimming towards the sharks . . . as an 80s’ child traumatised by Jaws, something I never thought I’d say.

For the really brave, Barefoot Kuata offers an intro scuba dive where you’re likely to get up close with a 3m bull shark.

Apparently she’s friendly…

travel

14 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Pacific Islands

»

Getting off the usual tourist merry-go-round in Fiji offers visitors unique insights, writes Eli Orzessek

O

nce you’ve spent enough time on the road in Fiji, the landscapes start to resemble strange things.

It begins as we leave Nadi and head towards Lautoka, with a stop at the Sleeping Giant Zipline along the way.

The slumbering big guy referred to in the name can be seen relaxing out along the mountain ranges in front of us.

It takes me a few seconds to see it, but there he is: a face with an open mouth, folded arms and feet sticking up.

Due to the interesting placement of a power pylon (perhaps intentional?), it also looks like something else is sticking up at the lower end of his mountainous torso — but hey, it is the morning.

Rather staying in a close radius of the resort pool, we’re going on a mission around Viti Levu to see everything the biggest island of Fiji has to offer.

As we head off the main drag, where the cars are pimped out in crazy ways that definitely wouldn’t be allowed at home, the roads get much bumpier — I’m thankful to be travelling in a massive 4WD ute. We pass small villages, schools and sugarcane fields, while mongooses run intermittently across the road. Brought in to control the rats that ate the sugarcane, they themselves became a problem as they began to eat the native snakes. It’s a bit late now, so you’ll see these weird critters everywhere. On first glance, it’s easy to mistake them for large lizards.

Set among the foothills of the Sleeping Giant is our first stop, his namesake zipline — located among 35ha of pristine rainforest.

I’ve never ziplined before, but it’s basically a flying fox on steroids — and it turns out to be a fantastic way to see all the lush nature from a different angle, with the longest line over a swiftly flowing river.

We’re joined by a couple in their 60s, who prove this excursion is enjoyable for all ages, even if can be a little terrifying at times. But by my third zip, I’ve mastered the art of taking a selfie on my still new iPhone while suspended in the air – partially thanks to the reassurance of travel insurance.

With that morning wake-up call done and dusted, we’re en route to Lautoka — also known as the Sugar City, due to the thriving sugarcane industry. Fittingly, it’s a great place to stop on a road trip for a sweet, juicy treat. In Lautoka’s bustling and colourful marketplace, the smell of fruit permeates the air while stores around the edges sell an impressive selection of bootleg DVDs. I munch down a refreshing cold pineapple, cut in a way that you hold the stalk like a fruity lollipop.

The Sugar City sets a precedent. My journey becomes fuelled by sugar, in the form of fresh pineapple and mangoes, or the slightly more artificial pineapple Fanta, which quenches my thirst after too many bags of chilli and salt taro chips.

We continue along the Queen’s Rd to Ba, where we need to pick up a special cargo that’s very important for our next destination: kava root, which my guide picks out carefully at the local market. It’s a savusavu (ceremonial gift) for the chief and his family at the village we’re visiting.

The one thing everyone comes back talking

Out on the back roads

Vanua Levu Viti Levu Nadi

Suva

Fiji Pacific Ocean

Checklist FIJI

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about after a trip to Fiji is how friendly the people — and that stereotype certainly rings true. I quickly lose count of how many times I’ve exclaimed “Bula!” It’s so genuine that it’s a real pleasure to do so. As we’re driving the bumpy and dusty roads that will lead us to Navala Village, everyone we pass turns to smile and wave.

We arrive on the outskirts of Navala, at Bulou’s Eco Lodge, to meet Tui, the nephew of the village chief. He isn’t home when we arrive but luckily it’s a beautiful place to wait around after the hustle and bustle of Lautoka and Ba — pure quiet, except for birds singing, with the smell of flowers all around us. Soon enough, Tui arrives, with a couple of German tourists in tow.

When our truck won’t start, Tui helps out and we’re soon on our way to the main village.

On our arrival, what seems like every kid in the village rushes out to greet us, running alongside the car as we weave through the thatched houses. After we pull up, it’s hard to get out of the ute as we’re surrounded by eager faces and smiles.

Navala is one of few villages to have retained the traditional style of thatched housing and we’re lucky enough to go inside building for a kava ceremony with Tui and some elders of the village. It’s clearly a home, with a small religious shrine and a tapestry of the Last Supper hanging on the wall alongside school photos.

Having previously only tried powdered instant kava, I was keen to try the real deal — pounded down from the roots we bought earlier and scooped out of a wooden bowl with coconut shells. Although it’s certainly an acquired taste, and not for everyone, it tastes a lot better when fresh. As I knock back a shell, the room claps and claps until it’s all gone.

As we return outside — feeling nicely relaxed from the kava — we see two kids having a ball on a tyre swing, while a couple of the many dogs watch on. It seems like an idyllic place to spend your childhood. There’s a small school backing on to the field, where a bunch of teenagers are playing rugby — no doubt inspired by the recent gold-medal winning sevens team whose pictures grace the wall of the classroom.

It’s hard to leave after all that hospitality, but we have to hit the road again. We’re headed to Wanunavu Beach Resort in Rakiraki, at the northern end of the island. This was an area that was particularly badly hit by Cyclone Winston in 2016, but it’s largely been cleaned up since and is welcoming visitors.

The resort is right on the beach and offers plenty of water-based activities, including diving training in the pool — I opt for a morning of snorkelling. It’s some of the best snorkelling I’ve experienced, with plenty of colourful coral and fish to admire. Afterwards, I’m dropped on the beach of a nearby island to relax for a bit and it’s here that I see some evidence of the cyclone’s devastation. I stumble across an abandoned backpackers’ hostel, frozen in time with furniture and decorations strewn across the floor.

Back on the mainland, a supermoon rises between the palm trees as I enjoy a Fiji Gold on my deck.

We head off for Suva the next day, but first, a mission. According to my guide, mangos are much cheaper in the north than in Suva, so we go on a little side trip into the nearby villages.

We pull over whenever we spot a mango tree on a property and ask the people there if we can buy some. After about half an hour, the back seat is covered in bags of mangoes and the smell filling the ute.

We take the scenic road to Suva. The Queen’s Rd is faster and more popular, but the King’s Rd is just as spectacular. It’s around two and half hours through lush and rugged back country, with views of the Wainibuka River and the occasional village along the way. The radio fades in and out, until we near the capital and things get busier.

We cruise past the swanky Government House, the Georgian-style mansion that’s home to the one and only Frank Bainimarama, before stopping in at the Fiji Museum. It hosts a small collection of interesting artefacts and is well worth visiting to learn more about the history and culture of the country.

There’s more history around the corner at Governors, Fiji’s only museum-themed

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 15

Clockwise from main: Navala Village is one of the few to retain traditional building methods; Dravuni Island; the young smiling face of Navala.

restaurant, housed on an old colonial estate. I enjoy a delicious lunch of calamari and ota, a type of local water fern that’s peppery and crunchy.

However, we’re soon on the road again, heading out of Suva, towards Pacific Harbour on our way back to Nadi. We zip past my favourite anti drink-driving billboard along the way: a cracked egg, with blood pouring out of it. The text reads,

“Drive like an egg, die like an egg”, with Bainimarama smiling in the corner.

Again, the mountains start shape-shifting. My guide points out one that looks like a thumb — officially called Joske’s Thumb. When I read more about it later, I find it even defeated Sir Edmund Hillary on his first attempt. And like him, it even once featured on a bank note — gracing Fiji’s $10 bill in 2012.

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travel

16 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Pacific Islands

»

BABY ON

BOARD

Greg Bruce finds a haven that opens its arms to his family — especially the little ones — and helps weary parents de-frazzle

O

n our first night at Malolo Island, we were supposed to be eating dinner at the high-end, adults-only Treetops restaurant, while one of the resort’s 155 staff provided babysitting for our sleeping children, but our flight had been delayed three hours, so it was already dinner time when we arrived and we were exhausted. We just took the kids to the family buffet.

We were no doubt looking a bit frazzled. We hadn’t planned ahead very well and there was nowhere to put our baby — he was too small for a high chair and we’d left the pram in our room.

This did not matter because, as we arrived at the table, our waiter Malika immediately picked Casper up as if he was her own. She told us she would look after him while we helped ourselves at the buffet.

When we got back to the table, our other two children hanging all over us, Malika was there but Casper wasn’t. “Don’t worry,” she said. “My boss has got him.” She pointed over the balcony to where a woman held our baby, surrounded by a small group of other women, all cuddling and cooing at him as if he was their own.

We didn’t get him back again until we were finished eating. It felt like if we hadn’t asked for him, he would have just been absorbed into the island.

This set the scene for a stay in which our baby son was so beloved by the people of the island that it was as if he belonged not to us but to

Fiji. We would not have been surprised to wake up one morning to see him standing in waist deep water, singing traditional Fijian folk songs, spearing fish and drinking from a coconut.

When I asked Malika why everybody there seemed to love babies so much, she said, “Every baby is a blessing.”

Our room looked out across a few metres of grass, past a hammock strung between a couple of palm trees, over the white sand and across the blue blue sea to a lush green island. It was a stereotypical fantasy scene of such stereotypicality that it was almost laughable.

The next morning I lay in the hammock while my daughters swung me from side to side.

I felt so happy in that moment and dearly wished they would go and get me a book and a glass of something with lime in it and then leave me alone for half an hour.

They didn’t, of course, but that was fine because, as I kept telling myself, I was here to enjoy my family, not escape them. Also, I knew that later that day I would be having an incredible one-hour massage by myself on an open-air platform set in the bush at the bottom of a hillside, where the soundtrack would be birdsong and gentle waves.

Over the four days we were there, we swam in the beautiful pool and our children screamed with joy in the warm clear waters of the sea, and played on the deserted white sand of the beach in the late afternoon. We ate garlic bread and drank beer and wine in the beachfront bar in the early evening with our children, and we got a babysitter and went for dinner in the

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Treetops restaurant, where we talked about our children.

One perfect morning in Malolo — and they were all perfect — we got in a small speedboat which sped us across the blue, blue water for an hour or so, eventually beaching us on a beautiful small island best known to tourists as the location of the blockbuster movie Castaway.

Tom Hanks and his anthropomorphised volleyball are no longer there, but otherwise, they could start shooting again tomorrow.

We waded through the turquoise shallows and up the collapsing white sand of the narrow beach and we followed a trail through light bush. Our guide Jese shimmied up a coconut palm like a cat, then plucked a coconut and smashed it on the trunk, yelling “Bula!” and tipping the sweet

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 17

Vanua Levu

Denarau Island

Viti Levu

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Malolo Island has palm fringed beaches, exquisite turquoise seas — and a welcome for all the family. Pictures / Supplied

and even some inside it, “Soon you’ll love me.”

He climbed up on the boat’s roof and jumped off into the sea. He pretended to be a monkey, he pretended to be Moana from the movie Moana. He tried so hard, but unless he had been a real mermaid from the movie The Little Mermaid — and maybe even then — the chances of either of our two older children interacting with him was absolute zero. Our 4-year-old did laugh at him a couple of times, and even that was a source of amazement to us.

Zac, who Jese had introduced as “the boss”

juice into his mouth from on high, then started chucking coconuts down for the rest of us.

Our children were amazed and only slightly afraid.

We drank the sweet refreshing juice, scooped out the cool, wet white meat with our fingers, then went back to the beach to swim in the incredible water.

Jese tried to high five our children. He kept trying to play with them, sang to them, gently teased them, gave them balloons.

“Don’t worry,” he said to our 4-yearold, who continually ignored him, as she always does to every adult outside her family

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Just under an hour by catamaran you will arrive to a modern Fiji island paradise. Golden sands, amazing coral reefs, soft breezes amongst the coconut palms and clear blue seas await you.

spent much of the trip home sitting and holding 6-month-old Casper in the front of the boat.

At one point, after I had been staring for a while at the astonishing view — just us, blue sea, clear sky, a few dotted islands — I looked over at Zac, who was staring into tiny, tiny Casper’s eyes with something like adoration, and I enjoyed the second sight more.

In short, Malolo Island as a whole seemed to genuinely love our children, and there’s nothing more uplifting for a parent than to see that.

It’s a better feeling than having your kids spend all day at kids’ club while you lie on the beach reading John Grisham and drinking mocktails; it’s better than going snorkelling, parasailing, jetskiing, paddleboarding or kayaking. It’s Malolo’s great gift to parents.

travel

18 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Road trips

»

The best space is in your head A good campervan holiday needs different thinking, writes Claudia Tarrant

T

wo weeks living, eating and sleeping in my little rental campervan flew by. Despite what many people may think, I could do this long term. Obviously, the luxuries of a bouncier bed and your own private bathroom are missed — but if it’s a matter of being able to see the world at an affordable price, I could persevere.

You may have to walk 50m to get to the amenities but you also only have to walk 50m (or less depending on how prime your location is) to get to a lake or a beach or a bay. Nothing beats sliding open the door to your motorised house, chucking a beanie on to cover the messy bed hair and seeing the morning sun peering over the horizon, lighting up the lake that sits in front of you.

With a campervan-made coffee in hand, those moments seemed to thrust energy and excitement on me. Kick-starting my day, the body of water was too tempting to dismiss and I would follow up every morning coffee with a midmorning swim. I don’t know about you but I just wouldn’t have the same motivation to take that

early plunge if I was living in a house.

A perspective adjustment must occur however, if one is going to embrace the “sharing is caring” practices of living the campervan life.

For the most part a lot of private things become public and you must take other people into consideration. No longer can you take 30-minute showers or slowly and methodically make your dinners. This is because there will be a high chance of 10 others waiting for you to finish.

Speed is key when it comes to using bathrooms and kitchen equipment.

The sharing practices don’t stop here and you won’t always been on the losing end. When making a campground your temporary home you begin to realise the generosity of your short-term neighbours. You ran out of dishwashing liquid?

No worries, the family tenting next to you has plenty to spare. The kindness of others extends more than just physical giving; the sharing of thoughts, words and knowledge are also evident.

I was showered with smiles and genuine questions — where was I from and what were my plans — every day from at least five strangers.

Comparing this to standard interactions with the

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Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 19

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residents near my actual house — I give the odd wave and a smile and that’s about where it ends. We just don’t have the same opportunity to embrace the curiosity, learn about one another or help each other out with the small things, because it’s a rarity to cross paths.

Ultimate freedom sits in the palm of your hand when living in a mobile home. Spontaneity beckons every day. Will you stay or will you go?

You may choose to follow the best surf one day to a freedom camping spot near the beach.

Maybe you’ll find yourself craving some warmer weather, so you go north. Either way the flexibility of this lifestyle is undeniable.

My campervan journey had its highs and lows, but that’s what made it an adventure. I once found myself driving at 10pm on an expedition that was a somewhat exhilarating experience, the eerie drive ending with settlement in a desolate forest. The toilets at this destination were a particular highlight. The stench that escaped the doors was one of power — I knew I was getting close when my body began to involuntarily retch.

The state of the facilities also gave rise to a couple of games I liked to play, every time I had to venture into the stinky abyss.

How long can you hold your breath was a must. I imagined the walls, floor and toilet seat are all lava, and touching any of them would result in being melted.

That situation may not have been terribly pleasant but it was an experience, a memory and a funny little anecdote to share.

Overall, the campervan lifestyle may not suit everyone but if you’ve never thought of testing the waters and giving it a go, I suggest you reconsider.

The possibilities this way of life offers are endless and leave you with many moments to cherish because you truly are living — through every down and every up.

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travel

20 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Road trips

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A weekend escape that is not too far, yet far enough away from home can be enough to get that holiday feeling, writes Sadie Beckman

H

ow often do we pass through a place without taking it in?

Picton is the perfect example of a place that is beautiful in its own right, yet the fact it is a travel hub connecting the South Island to its northern neighbour means this quaint and friendly harbour town is sometimes overlooked as a destination in its own right. As I recently discovered though, visitors are missing out if they don’t stop for a while.

I had set off from Wellington on a grey day, partner in tow, children safely ensconced at their grandparents’ house. We were off for a weekend away from home, work, parenting and life in general, which I firmly believe is an entirely healthy thing to do.

When you only have limited time, making the journey part of the holiday is one way to extend the effect, and so it was we boarded the Interislander ferry in Wellington as foot passengers, lounge tickets in hand as a special treat.

I was surprised at how much of a good deal the lounge option was — $55 extra per person got us access to a comfy, peaceful space with Wi-Fi, blankets, a continuous buffet and all manner of refreshments, including a bar stocking some top quality local wines and craft beers, all included in the price.

Indoor offerings aside, the ferry trip involves a route through some of the most beautiful scenery around, and the views are priceless.

As Wellington recedes, the Cook Strait swell can pick up, but it’s not for long, and the serene beauty of the Marlborough Sounds does something to your soul.

It’s common to see little blue penguins diving below the surface, or dolphins leaping out of the sparkling water. I like to spot the remote baches tucked into the bush-clad, roadless hills and imagine retreating to a simple, off-grid existence, where the hassles of urban life are a distant memory.

So, in a suitably whimsical mood, we arrived in Picton refreshed. It was just a short stroll to the Picton Yacht Club Hotel, a multi-level, tasteful, modern building looking out over the harbour. We checked into a comfortable, well-appointed room on the third floor.

Picton is not very big, but it has a vibrant little waterfront with eateries, bars and shops. We found a place for dinner with live music and slightly stand-offish staff, but the food was great.

Travel from 7 May, 2018

Wellington

Picton

Push pause in Picton

Kaikoura

Checklist PICTON

GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Blenheim. airnz.co.nz STAYING THERE cpghotels.com/ourhotels/picton-yacht-clubhotel DETAILS greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/ interislander visitpicton.co.nz

Picton’s foreshore (top); the twice-cooked goat’s cheese souffle at The Chartroom Restaurant.

Pictures / Supplied

Later, we switched into an entirely different setting at a tiny, packed Irish bar, which did what all good Irish bars all over the world do so well — music, dancing, Guinness and the obligatory quirky local characters.

The next day, after a squiz round the shops — which had some gems, such as ethical art store The Paper Rain Project tucked away in their midst — we walked around the waterfront and out on a bush track that hugged Picton’s bay. The worldrenowned Queen Charlotte Track begins near town, but with limited time we chose a much shorter and closer alternative called Bob’s Bay Walk.

Starting off, you are directly opposite the huge ferries belching and breathing as they are loaded and unloaded in a hive of activity, but they

disappear from view as you round the craggy curves of the path. It isn’t long before it’s just you and the Marlborough Sounds.

The day was clear and sunny, the water glittered while the bush above our heads hummed with life. Suddenly, and right on cue, a black shape broke the surface of the water and a single dolphin leapt into the air. It doesn’t matter how many dolphins you have seen before, I defy anyone to not feel their magic every time.

More glistening shapes emerged and the pod made its way across the bay, before disappearing from view. After soaking in the nature surrounding us, the time came to reluctantly make our way back towards civilisation.

A connection with the water is everywhere in Picton. From the EcoWorld Aquarium, to the Edwin Fox Maritime Museum, with its mostlyintact 19th-century convict and cargo ship on display, watery or nautical themes greet you at

Travel from 10 June, 2018

30

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 21

EXPLORER SALE

The Marlborough Sounds (top right); Picton Marina (above). Pictures / 123rf; Supplied

every turn.

Hundreds of boats, from humble fishing dinghies to multi-million-dollar yachts are moored in the harbour, and companies offer water sports, cruises, fishing trips or water taxis out to places in the multitudinous bays and destinations in the Sounds.

At our hotel, the marine theme continued at the Boatshed Bar and the Chartroom Restaurant, where we had a spectacular dinner. I had a twicecooked goat’s cheese souffle (which is puzzling, as souffles are hard enough to cook once, let alone twice — although maybe they were talking about the cheese) followed by a delicious herbmarinated chicken breast with saffron and pear chutney and carrot slaw. Dessert, which I miraculously found room for when I saw the menu, was an orange and white chocolate panna cotta — a dish I believe restaurants can be measured by.

The Chartroom certainly passed that test — it was meltin-the-mouth stuff.

Later, on the hotel balcony, glass of wine in hand, I looked at the twinkling lights of the town as they reflected on the water and counted some blessings. I know that might sound a bit saccharine, but it does seem to be what happens if you can manage to swing a bit of time away from your regular life, and actually relax. While it may be hard to organise with all the complications of the day-to-day grind, if you look for options that are relatively close to home, and think about the journey there being part of the holiday, you’d be surprised at what you can manage in a weekend.

Thinking differently about Picton — a place I’d always just passed through on the way to somewhere else — resulted in a mini escape that ticked all the boxes.

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Holiday Snaps

Where:

Arrowtown, Central Otago

How: On a campervan trip taking you into Queenstown from the

Lindis Pass, take a five-minute detour from SH6A at Arrow Junction.

Arrowtown is a 20-minute drive from the bustle of Queenstown, yet somehow a world away.

Why: This dazzling little hamlet in the crook of a hill is famously

one of the most photogenic spots in our camera-friendly country, and there’s no better time to shoot it than in autumn, when the hillsides are alight with gold and amber. While you’re there, walk the Arrow River Trail — a 50-minute return trek alongside the river that borders the town. Serious trampers only can head for six-hour return hike on the Big Hill Trail — the photos from the summit are worth the effort. When you’re done, refresh yourself and look over your photos at the superb Amisfield Winery & Bistro.

Words: Winston Aldworth Photo: Getty images / Korawee Ratchapakdee

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 23

travel

24 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Road trips

»

What goes on van tour...

Natalie Akoorie recalls the highlights of a classic Kiwi van tour around Europe

Life on the road in Europe Europe is big, hot and really dusty, but amazing. Be prepared for squatter toilets and paying for the privilege of using them. Also paying for beach access or a sun lounger on a pebbly beach.

Be weary of bottles of 80 per cent alcohol — yes, you read that right. Horse meat is one of the main steaks offered in the supermarkets so you might want to brush up on your French before you go shopping.

Don’t bother trying to do anything during siesta. Spain, mostly, shuts down for two hours every day in the middle of the day, so if you’re hung over and hungry, get food early.

Keep a diary. Before smartphones we kept postcards, beer labels, museum and cathedral brochures, road maps and general memorabilia, and of course we took photographs — the nondigital kind. Take a prop to photograph in each country — ours was “Horse”, the horse mask.

E

very year in the Northern Hemisphere summer, groups of eager young Kiwis, Aussies and a handful of South Africans ditch their jobs in London and take off around Europe on van tour.

The unofficial three-month tour of van-loads of antipodeans on their OE, is a booze-filled, debauched affair that starts at the Running of the Bulls in July and ends at Munich’s Oktoberfest in September.

It has been a rite of passage for Kiwis living in the UK for decades and my boyfriend and I [now my husband] did it in 2001. These tips below are taken from that trip and tours in 1994, 1998, 2000, and 2005.

Buy your van in Europe In the old days van owners would line up their recently completed tour vans back in London for next year’s wannabes and sell them like hot cakes. But it’s worth considering buying a van in France.

There are two reasons for this. One, it will be left-hand drive, which will take a bit of getting used to but it matches the roading system on the continent.

And two, Europeans have an age-old dislike of the English, so if you’re driving around with a GB [Great Britain] symbol on the van you could attract unwanted attention. Equally you can blame your road rudeness on the French if you are sporting an F symbol.

My husband and I actually leased a brand new Peugeot car and collected it from Charles de Gaulle airport outside Paris. We wanted to travel in style mainly with air-conditioning because, beware, the vans — which range from pop-tops to old ambulances — are pretty rough and prone to breaking down. One friend missed the famous first stop, the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain because of mechanical failure.

Camping When we did our big trip we didn’t have mobile phones. That means no easy access to emails or the internet. We had a Lonely Planet guide and

The annual van tour is a wild ride as writer Natalie Akoorie can testify.

a map, and so we ended up at all the same campgrounds as everyone else on van tour.

Because we weren’t in a van we needed a tent.

We pretty quickly upgraded to a three-man tent just for the extra storage space, and it wasn’t long before we bought deckchairs — an essential for eating dinner. Because when you are camping around Europe for three months in your 20s, you can’t afford to eat out every night.

The camps themselves are not like anything in New Zealand. Many have supermarkets, pizza parlours, beer vending machines, hydroslides and some swell to the size of my hometown in summer; 5000 people. But don’t get so drunk you never make it out of the campgrounds to see the sights. One van tour traveller sent his camera out with friends most days because he was too hung over to leave camp.

Everything you need, like our trusty little gas cooker, can be bought at the massive Carrefour “supermarches” in France, a cross between a supermarket, hardware store and K-Mart.

The main attractions The Running of the Bulls in Pamplona is the first main stop. I did not run with the bulls, but I watched people do it.

I watched people kill bulls by repeatedly stabbing them, and I’m pretty sure we saw someone get killed by a bull. I found the whole thing quite upsetting. Apparently the after-party is good.

Then there’s 100 Club. The year we went most of the vans were banned from the campground at Thalkirchen, so we hiked over to a carpark the day before Oktoberfest kicked off to watch this “competition” for anyone who wants to enter: They must drink a shot of beer (from film canisters), every minute for 100 minutes.

It is by far the most disgusting thing I’ve ever seen. I almost vomited just watching it, sober.

It’s not the shot drinking. It’s the punishments the “judges” inflict on the participants and bystanders. Drinking rotten fish guts and urine from a gumboot are images that spring to mind.

Beerfest itself is a drunken mess.The antipodeans head to the Hofbrau beer tent.

There’s rules like not wearing underwear, yikes.

And being seated at a table, served by the costumed frauleins carrying massive steins [mugs] of beer, about five in each hand.

If you go outside for a pork knuckle or to ride the fairground attractions make sure you get back inside a beer tent before they close. It’s like a pub lock-in. Once closed you have to wait several hours to get back inside.

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 25

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Famous for its Gilded Age mansions, many of which are open for tours, such as the Vanderbilt’s opulent Marble House, Newport remains a charming, well-heeled resort city. For a different view of the mansions, take the scenic Cliff Walk.

Boston, Massachusetts, United States

Founded in 1630, it’s one of the oldest cities in the U.S. The key role it played in the American Revolution is highlighted on the Freedom Trail, a 2.5mile walking route of historic sites that tells the story of the nation’s founding. One stop, former meeting house Faneuil Hall, is a popular marketplace. Also don’t miss the Bull & Finch - the pub that inspired the TV Show “Cheers”.

New York City

New York reigns as one of the world’s most dynamic cities. But where to begin? You have 2 days and 1 last night to view the sacred soil of Ground Zero or stunning Central Park? The Guggenheim or the American Museum of Natural History? Should you take in a Broadway show or simply enjoy the nonstop show of people that parade through the streets? The possibilities are endless in the five boroughs of New York City, so get out and enjoy.

Wed 15 Aug

Fly New York to NZ

Fri 17 Aug

Arrive home

At Sea - Cruising

Two days to relax and enjoy your beautiful ship Oceania Insignia. Enjoy a cocktail by the pool, savour a gourmet al fresco lunch, then maybe relax at the spa.

St. George, Bermuda Overnight – 2 day stay

This picturesque tour first takes you on a scenic drive through six of Bermuda’s nine parishes. Cross the Flatts Inlet Bridge over the narrow channel where the waters of Harrington Sound and the Atlantic Ocean merge, a spectacular sight as the tides rush in and create swirling riptides. Continue on to Bermuda’s Financial capital – Hamilton. Stroll along famed Front Street but you’ll also want to branch off into the

Kroupa & Bourke Bonus • FREE WIFI internet • PLUS book now & choose… 3 FREE Shore Tours worth around $600pp.

Exclusive 60+ Upgrade Bonus Endorsed by the No.1

Bar Harbor, Maine, United States

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

water, cappuccino, espresso, teas & juices onboard

✔ FREE 24hr room service menu

Upgrade to Concierge Veranda Level from just $99pp

New Zealand agents for Oceania Cruises

Discover why Bar Harbor attracts so many foodies by sampling delectable dishes & treats on this culinary walking tour. After meeting your local ‘food lover’ guide at the pier, you’ll commence a leisurely walk to Village Green, a park-like setting lined with restaurants. You can expect to visit about a half dozen venues, samplings include delectable clam chowder, mini lobster roll and refreshing blueberry soda. After the walking tour you are welcome to stay on to further explore New England’s premier summer resort city.

FREE Included Tour* (Value $217pp) Indulge your senses with the coastal beauty of Peggy’s Cove. Depart the pier with your kilted guide for a sightseeing journey along the coastal Lighthouse Route to Peggy’s Cove, a rustic fishing village. The power and majesty of the Atlantic Ocean comes to life as you pass by impressive rock formations left by eroding glaciers millions of years ago.

FREE Included Tour* (Value $246pp)

✔ FREE specialty restaurants Onboard ✔ FREE unlimited soft drinks, bottled

JASON & LINDA KROUPA, THE OWNER/OPERATORS OF KROUPA & BOURKE HOUSE OF TRAVEL

Points of distinction Elegant mid-size ship with capacity for just 684 guests The Finest Cuisine at Sea™, served in a variety of distinctive open-seating restaurants, all at no additional charge Gourmet culinary program created by worldrenowned Master Chef Jacques Pépin Port-intensive itineraries featuring more overnight visits and extended evening port stays Country club-casual ambiance; tuxedos and gowns are never required Acclaimed Canyon Ranch SpaClub® Extraordinarily high staff-to-guest ratio ensures exemplary personalised service

“If seeing the Statue of Liberty & Empire State Building feature on your bucket list - you really can’t pass up this exciting opportunity to explore the Big Apple, along with New England, Nova Scotia & beautiful Bermuda - not to mention the bonus of 3 days rest & relaxation at sea.

Plus you get to savour it all in sumptuous 5 star luxury for an incredibly affordable package price. Exclusive to the super friendly team of Oceania experts at Kroupa & Bourke House of Travel - but only for the next week!

Don’t miss out. Call us now on 0800 66 55 33” As the number one agents for Oceania Cruises they can offer you experienced advice and invaluable tips to ensure that you enjoy the best possible Oceania Cruise Holiday.

0 8 00 6 6 5 5 3 3

J A S O N K @ H OT.C O. N Z CONDITIONS: Valid for new bookings to 19MAR18, or until sold out • Prices are per guest share twin in NZ$, based on two people sharing a stateroom & hotel room, a single supplement is available for single travellers • Prices include gratuities, air taxes, port taxes & all applicable discounts, correct as of 04MAR18 • Full payment is required within 72 hours of booking.• Special conditions, currency fluctuations & availability restrictions apply • Prices are for cash sales, please add an additional 2% for credit card payments • Accommodation, airline & routing are at the discretion of Kroupa & Bourke House of Travel. CRUISE: Free Internet is one login per stateroom, to be used on one device at a time, Free shore excursions shown are suggestions only and available by request basis, excludes Oceania Choice, Oceania Exclusive & Executive Collection. Guests in the same stateroom must choose the same OLife Choice amenity. FLIGHTS: Return economy class airfare is from Auckland. Please discuss your NZ domestic flight options and upgrades to Premium Economy or Business Class with your Kroupa & Bourke House of Travel consultant • Airfares are non-refundable, non-transferable and name changes are not permitted • House of Travel & Oceania Cruises booking conditions, amendment and cancellation fees apply • For full details, please ask your Kroupa & Bourke House of Travel cruise consultant on 0800 66 55 33.

travel

26 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Africa

»

Snap up a safari

Join the hoi polloi for a traditional trek or choose a photo tour for unrivalled exposure to wildlife, writes Dean Fosdick

S

hopping for a wildlife safari is like taking a multiple-choice exam. You know the right answer is there on the page somewhere but they all seem so appealing.

Most safari operators guarantee face time with animals and birdlife but those assurances come with varying degrees of viewer comfort, species diversity and proximity.

Options range from the traditional group tours — people of all ages and interests sharing vehicles, lodging and meals — to customised

luxury trips built around singles, couples, family groups or other self-selected combinations pursuing their own interests. But when you add it up, the best safaris for the money generally are those tailored primarily for photographers.

Photo tours may be slightly dearer than traditional treks, but they provide more value.

Some aspects to consider: ● Fewer travellers per group means you can go more places. When participation is limited to as few as a half-dozen people, everyone has a window seat and an opportunity to find the right camera angle. More hands-on instruction is available from the expedition leaders, many of whom are professional photographers. ● Photo tours move at a slower pace. Every person has a chance to get that cover photo for his or her album.

● Operators of photo tours use different modes of transportation ranging from safari vehicles and dugout canoes to helicopters and small planes. That provides dramatic wildlife viewing no matter what the terrain. ● Many photo tour outfitters provide camps in leased areas known for their wildlife abundance rather than simply supplying hotel rooms near nature preserves. Game drives originating from these private leaseholds mean less viewing congestion from other safari vehicles when animals are spotted. ● Photo tours don’t operate on an 8am-5pm schedule. They depart when lighting is at its best, the so-called “golden hours” of early morning and late afternoon. That also happens to be when temperatures are more comfortable — and that can be a a major consideration if travelling in

SECLUDED BOTSWANA

In store

helloworld.co.nz

0800 66 68 88

CONNECT WITH US

*T&Cs: Price is per person twin share & based on select departure dates (25 Jun, 28 Jul, 27 Aug, 14 Sep & 14, 26 Oct 2018). Seasonal surcharges & supplements may apply. Price quoted based on low season travel. Price excludes international airfares, tipping, items of a personal nature & visas if required. Offer is subject to availability. Valid for sales until sold out. A deposit is due at time of booking & full payment is due 60 days prior to departure, unless specified. For full terms & conditions please ask your local helloworld store. Price correct as at 08 Mar 2018, but may fluctuate due to changes in availability, surcharges, fees, taxes or exchange

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 27

Photography safaris will take you out during the ‘golden hours’; in difficult terrain, the operator of this photo tour takes wildlife enthusiasts right up to two leopards.

Pictures / Getty Images

WILDLIFE IN YOUR LENS M oz am biq M ad ue ag as ca r

Angola Zambia ZimbNamibia abwe Botswana

South Africa

Checklist AFRICA

DETAILS A special safari photo tour through helloworld, covering internal flights, 12 nights accommodation, permits and guides starts from $24,440. helloworld.co.nz

Africa, India or the Galapagos Islands.

Another difference between traditional safaris and photo tours is group composition, says Court Whelan, director of conservation travel programmes for Natural Habitat Adventures, an American ecotourism company.

“On a normal trip, it’s not as easy to initiate conversations about technical details but most people on photo trips are interested in elevating their photography,” he says. “They have different styles. Different eyes.

It makes for good sharing.”

More people are choosing photo trips these days because equipment quality has improved and they can gather their own images rather than buy them, Whelan says.

SPECIAL PHOTO TOUR

Botswana is an epic safari destination for nature photographers.

Head out at sunrise to capture shots of leopard and cheetah hunting in the morning’s cool air on the Linyanti and Gomoti savannas. In the swamps of the Okavango, witness an amazing array of birds, lurking crocodiles and photograph hippos and elephant herds massing along the Chobe River.

This tour will exceed every wildlife photographer’s wildest dreams!

“On a photo tour, if somebody wants that perfect lighting on a landscape, they’ll get it,” he says.

“They’re not only chasing things down but they’re also waiting for things to come to them.”

Working with smaller groups is more rewarding because they can sit down together and analyse their work, says Ona Basimane, a photojournalist who also serves as a Natural Habitat expedition leader in his native Botswana.

“On a photo trip, interpretation is more toward helping people anticipate the animal’s next move so they can always be ready to take a picture,” Basimane says. “So one gets the benefit of learning about behaviour and getting good images.”

The National Geographic Society also offers world-class photo tours.

“The signature of National Geographic photo tours is that we’re more exploratory in nature, we emphasise cultural groups and we’re led by staff photographers,” says Molly Danner, a programme director for the company’s Expeditions group.

“We provide organised photo shoots and the kinds of access that people might not be able to get on their own,” she says. “Berbers in Morocco.

Masai villages in Africa. Traditional festivals and camel fairs in India. Our trips are designed to maximise photo opportunities.”

Photo tours usually aren’t a good fit for young children but they do accommodate people from all skill levels, Danner says. “We try to cater to people who have different kinds of goals and who want special access to travelling with National Geographic photographers.”

Having a professional photographer along can yield great results from the unexpected.

A colleague of Danner’s, for example, recently returned from a photo trek raving about how she had been able to get a great shot because the National Geographic photographer “stopped the bus for a scene he wanted to capture. He was able to offer a spontaneous opportunity along with some insights. It became her favourite moment and the favourite picture from the trip.”

— AP

What makes this safari better than most?

Natural Habitat Adventures Photo Tours are specialised adventures for photographers of all ability levels. The focus is on helping you capture exceptional images of wildlife and natural landscapes, with each trip led by a naturalist Expedition Leader, who is also a professional nature photographer, adept at offering personalised guidance. All Natural Habitat Adventures are high quality, in-depth and privately-guided, staying in small luxury camps in private remote reserves.

Highlights - Smaller groups: Natural Habitat Adventures’ photo tours have smaller groups to ensure access to the best shots, plenty of room for your gear, and the utmost in flexibility to pursue photo opportunities as they arise.

- Chartered flights: Chartered flights by light aircraft between most safari locations, rather than long drives over rough dirt roads, allow more time spent taking photos rather than in transit.

- An open “window seat” for everyone: Private state-of-the-art safari vehicles with open sides, no glass to interfere with your view, and a maximum of four travellers in each ten-seater vehicle means plenty of photo opportunities and room for your gear.

- Helicopter flightseeing: There’s nothing like photographing wildlife on the move from above. Natural Habitat Adventures includes an exciting helicopter flight over the Gomoti River and vast Okavango Delta, one of the richest wildlife enclaves in all of Africa.

- The world’s finest naturalistphotographer guides: Travellers enjoy the personalised service of some of the besttrained, most experienced naturalists in all of Africa – who also happen to be some of Africa’s top photographers.

- World Wildlife Fund partnership: When you travel with Natural Habitat Adventures and World Wildlife Fund, who have partnered since 2003, you join them as a force for positive change. helloworld.co.nz

0800 66 68 88

Includes • • • • • •

12 nights accommodation, including classic tented bush camps Internal scheduled light aircraft flights All meals whilst on safari with wine & beer in camp Non-alcoholic drinks at camps and in vehicles Photo Expedition Leader & Guide All permits, entrance fees & taxes

Departs: Livingstone, Zambia select dates Jun – Oct 2018 12 night small group tour from $24,440*pp twin share

rates. Travel agent fees may apply. Price based on payment made by cash or cheque only. Further terms & conditions apply, please ask your local helloworld agent for details. Q MasterCard: Lending criteria, fees, terms & conditions apply. ^We welcome American Express Cardmembers. Membership Terms & Conditions apply. HW2203_2x16

travel

28 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Australia

»

Look beneath the surface It’s no beauty but extremely popular. Ewan McDonald discovers the waterfront, aquarium and the markets that attract visitors to Cairns.

C

ans. As in the things that beer comes in and the city in the south of France that hosts the film festival. On my first visit to the capital of Tropical North Queensland I’ll have to respect the local culture and overcome several years of elocution lessons that Mum insisted on. I’ll try not to say “Cairns”.

According to Tourism Australia, this remote region is the fourth most popular destination for international tourists after Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, because it’s close to two World Heritage areas, the Great Barrier Reef and Wet Tropics, better known as the rainforest, and their adventure playgrounds.

Direct flights from Shanghai and Guangzhou have fuelled the boom: more than 20,000 holidaymakers arrive on chartered flights at Chinese New Year.

Even its most one-eyed supporter A tropical swimming lagoon on the Esplanade in would struggle to say Cairns is, in Cairns with an artificial beach (top); Cairns’ popular and of itself, one of the seven beautnight markets (above); the Shangri-La resort The 255-room Shangri-La resort is set on ies of the world. But for a town that (below). Pictures / Supplied; Getty Images Cairns’ modern floating marina, claiming “a started life as a mangrove swamp, cool, modern tropical vibe and plenty of luxe it has more than made the most touches”. There’s a big, and welcome, outdoor of what it has. enjoy on its waterfront. pool surrounded by a deck, loungers and (also Leaving the hotel on the foreCairns’ newest attraction is its welcome) bar. Didn’t try the on-site dining shore and walking into the city aquarium, a private venture in the city options, apart from the far-better-than-average centre, about five minutes away, centre that aims to connect visitors with breakfast, because it’s an easy walk to myriad I realise that one of these things the natural wonders of the Great Barrier restaurants and bars. Free Wi-Fi, which is is heat. It’s not quite summer and Reef, the Wet Tropics and the Gulf not always the case in Australia, where it’d be 35 in the shade, if there was Savannah and Cape York regions further internet speeds can approximate a any. north. lethargic koala.

First port of call is the Esplanade, a They’ve got plenty of raw talent park created around the delta that was filled to work with: Tropical North in to become the original downtown Cairns.

Queensland is home to some Focal point is the swimming lagoon, a series of the world’s most fascinatof pools, shaded picnic and barbecue spots, ing, elusive and deadly skateboard ramps, bike trails, exercise gear, creatures, and the jogging tracks, kids’ playgrounds and just aquarium claims to house general public chill-out zones.

15,000 animals from 10 difThe pools, with their sandy shores and ferent ecosystems and 71 timber decking, are patrolled by lifeguards habitats. and can accommodate 1000 or so swimmers The critters are at any one time, and water depths range from sensitively and thoughtfully just under 1m to 1.6m. housed, their place and value The view isn’t bad, either: giant banyan trees; in the world clearly explained, harbour, ocean and mountain views. The Esplaand it’s well worth a couple of nade is the template for the sort of park and hours to understand the rich variety playground that any city with those natural of this part of the continent’s animals and surroundings, and with a forward-thinking counplants, many of which are rare or threatened. It cil, might build for its citizens and visitors to also has an excellent cafe-restaurant and aircon.

WHERE I’D EAT The house salad begins with mixed leaves, Mungalli Creek feta and spiced macadamia nuts.

Then add smoked crocodile … Craig Squire, the owner and chef who founded Ochre (pictured) 22 years ago, incorporates native ingredients such as seafood, game, bush plants, herbs and spices, into delicious dishes with flair.

Adventurous diners will leave it to Squire and order his four-course Tastes of Australia platter, where his imagination runs free.

WHERE I’D STAY

As the day cools, Cairns’ Night Markets heat up. Open every night from 4.30 to 11pm, they’re a popular shopping and dining experience, with more than 70 stalls. Created as a way for local traders to promote North Queensland souvenirs, they’ve expanded into an attraction in their own right. The Esplanade also heaves with craft and food stalls on the weekend.

A couple of streets back from the beach, Rusty’s Markets have been running for more than 30 years, starting life with six fruit and vege stalls; it’s now one of the largest and most successful markets in Australia.

From Friday morning to Sunday afternoon, 180 operators sell flowers, deli food, local fruit and vegetables as well as jewellery, clothing, gems, organic products, leatherwear, medicinal herbs and spices. On Sundays, there’s a concentration on bric-a-brac, arts and crafts.

Like so many fly-in, fly-out tourists, I’m leaving town after an afternoon and a night for a road trip along the Queensland coast. Cairns has given me the one thing I needed to make it perfect: a $2 CD from Rusty’s Markets. Greatest Aussie Hits: INXS, Midnight Oil, Jimmy Barnes and more.

Not so much Mad Max in his tooled-up Falcon, though. More Mild Mac in a rented Camry.

r w e n w M e E n R » O s l M a i » c e s l p a s i E R O M R » d O n s a M $63,000 RE brand r b E R O M » s e s a e e s l n a e e r E R w O e n M E » R s l a i c e p s a M i E c R O M » s w d o n h S r e p E u S i s v o MOR C 8 1 0 2 : E D I U G FREE c s R Win u l o P p x e t s e g r a l NZ’s rhomes, M weeks ds of moto ns & 4 w carava ies r o s s O e M c » ac s d n a r b E R O M » e s s a e s e l a e e r l e w r e w n e E n R E O R M O i » M c s e l » p a i s c E e R p O s M E R » O s M d n » a r s E b d R n O M » M s » e s s a e e s l a e e l e r O w M e » O s l M a i » c e s l p a s i c E R s RE spe ORE brand d n a r b E R O M ses » MORE new releases »ls » MORE new als » M nds » MORE specia E brands » MOR ORE branew re1l6e-a1s8eMsa»rcM h,O2R018new releases E R E O 9 a m – 5 p m E v e r y d a y R M O a i » M c s e l p a i s c E e R p O s M E R » ds » MOses »ASBMShOowRgroEundbs,rGareennldanes, Aeucaklasndes » MORE w relea als » MOwRwwE.supneershwow.croe.nlzspecials » MOR E speci RE brands » MORE ORE brands s » MO E new releases » M» MORE new R s l a i c R e O p s » MO s M E » R s O d M n a r b » MORE new releases » MOREM specials » MORE brands d E R O b E s R » e s s a e s e l a e e r l e w r e w n E ORE s travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 29

BAILEY CARAVAN NO RESERVE AUCTION Saturday 17 March 12pm

motorhome holiday in the UK&EUROPE *conditions apply

Come along to the 2018 Covi Motorhome, Caravan & Outdoor SuperShow – you could win the ‘Trip of a Lifetime’.

Free entry into the draw when you purchase your ticket at the gate (t’s & c’s apply).

» Tickets (at gate): $16 Adults » Multiple day pass: $25 » Children under 16 free

Super Centre

NZMCA INSURANCE

NO RESERVE AUCTION

GATE 1

FH

IT FIRE EX

JAYCO

Your Insurance

600 Jayco Pavilion

PUBLICY ENTR

Gate Prize stamping booths: SS17, 255, 350, 580, 745, OS34, JAYCO

Show Information Submit Gate Prize Entry

OS68 Lilliput ans arav Vintage C

N

Bar Area – Outside

FH

FH

Food

FH

OS70

Coffee Karts

OS64

TRAILLITE Seminar Area

(upstairs above main Foodcourt)

Stop ‘n’ Stay

GRANDSTAND VILLAGE GREEN

Derek the Chef

FOOD

Accessory Prize Entry Area

to Greenlane West Road

ATM/CASH OUT

FIRE ALARM

SS44

SS46 SS48

SS26

SS17

Stop ’n Stay

Stop ’n Stay SS29 SS28

SS16

DEREK THE CHEF SS51

SS25

120

C

SS23

SS22 SS21 SS20 SS19

SS18

201

294

205

217

255

FIRE EXIT

HALL 1

284

310

Apollo Enterta

530

552

390

375 301

560

ENTRY / EXIT

inment

536

537

725

ee ry Marqu Accesso all 7) ((H

717

701

710 706

702

333

276

TOILETS

5770

Accessory Prize Entry Area

755

734 738

763

260

270

240

G

370

F FIRE EXIT

FIRE EXIT

FIRE EXIT

HALL 2

FH

360

FIRE EXIT

350

FIRE EXIT

344

LOGA AN CAMPBELL THEATRE (HALL 5)

330

OS30

746

ENTRY / EXIT

OS26

OS1

Drop Shop n

er Supntr e Ce

J

OUTSIDE AREA

OS6

OS14

OS18 OS21

DAILY NO RESERVE AUCTIONS

OS17

OS13

A series of No Reserve Auctions will be conducted during the Covi SuperShow. We will announce the location and the items to be auctioned over the PA system 20 minutes prior to each auction.

Please refer to www.supershow.co.nz for auction details

OS9 TRE ER C EN RV SUP IVE PARKING R TEST D

FH

FIRE EXIT

OS10

OS22

ck Power Pa

ENTRY / EXIT

FIRE EXIT FH

OS35

745

742

ENTRY / EXIT

OS34

741

730

714

549

737

726

718

709

FIRE EXIT

G

HALL 3 COMPANY

HALL

STAND COMPANY

AA Solar & Sun Power Plus ............................. 5.................................510 Absolute Marine & RV...................................... 7.................................763 ACM ................................................................. 3.................................344 Allisee .............................................................. 3.................................333 ALM Group ...................................................... 3.................................333 Aoraki Tourism................................................. 1.............................. SS19 Apollo Entertainment Ltd ................................. 5.................................537 ATM Machine ......................................... Foyer, Outside.................... OS80 Auckland Motor Homes ...........................3 & Outside.............. 310, OS35 Auto Sleeper .................................................... 3.................................301 Auto Trail.......................................................... 3.................................310 Avida ................................................................ 3.................................333 Awakeri Rail Adventures .................................. 1.............................. SS25 Bailey Caravans................................................ 3.................................301 Barz Optics....................................................... 1.............................. SS26 BEP Power Products........................................ 7.................................729 Benimar ........................................................... 3.................................301 Bessemer Cookware ........................................ 7.................................755 Bivouac Campers ........................................ Outside......................... OS17 Bluebridge........................................................ 1.............................. SS44 BOP RV ....................................................... Outside......................... OS22 Burstner ...................................................... Outside............... OS43,OS50 Bus and Coach New Zealand............................ 2..........................260,270 Busy Body Auto Refinishers........................ Outside........................... OS9 Carado ........................................................ Outside......................... OS43 Carlton Bar.................................................. Outside......................... OS60 Carthago .......................................................... 2.................................240 Ci Motorhomes ........................................... Outside......................... OS30 Coastal Motorhomes........................................ 3.................................300 Country RV ...................................................... 2.................................255 Covi NZMCA Insurance .................................... 1.................................110 Credit One ........................................................ 2.................................223

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Deluxe – Pilote, Winnebago ............................. 3.................................330 Derek the Chef ................................................. 1.............................. SS51 Destination Kaikoura ........................................ 1.............................. SS21 Dethleffs........................................................... 1............120,130,140,150 Diamond Motorhomes ...........................Puriri Entrance ......................P10 Discovery Expeditions, Queenstown ................ 1.............................. SS46 Dometic ........................................................... 5.................................501 Duralite Modular Systems................................ 7.................................734 Dynamo Electric Bikes ..................................... 2.................................204 eBike Centre..................................................... 2.................................200 Ebo Electric Bikes............................................. 2.................................217 EKKO Magic Wipes .......................................... 1................................ SS9 Elddis Motorhomes and Caravans.................... 2.................................220 Emtex NZ ......................................................... 1.............................. SS12 Enertec Marine & RV........................................ 5.................................515 Euro RV....................................................... Outside......................... OS80 Experience Mid Canterbury Tourism ................ 1.............................. SS20 Explorer Caravans – Merit RV .......................... 2.................................298 Explorer Motorhomes ...................................... 3.................................370 Fenwick’s ......................................................... 7.................................742 Fifth Wheel Tourers ..................................... Outside......................... OS21 Fist Aid............................................................. 3......................Concourse Fleurette Motor Homes ............................... Outside......................... OS34 Flying Cat Ebikes.............................................. 2.................................212 Frankia ............................................................................120,130,140,150 Fridgetech Marine & Outdoors......................... 5.................................515 Gallivanting Oz ................................................. 5.................................536 Gate Prize Entry ............................................... 1.............................. SS41 Generator Place........................................... Outside......................... OS85 Go Rentals .................................................. Outside......................... OS10 HCB Technologies ............................................ 5.................................521 Hercules Instant Shelter................................... 7.................................746

Come and join us for your chance to win this fantastic auction or even just to witness the action When: 12pm, Saturday 17 March Where: Outdoor food court, ASB Showgrounds, Greenlane

OS34

731

722

713

541

729

727

TOILETS

D

OS42

OS46

580

FH

220

OS50

521

527

520

216

515

506 510

544

255

FIRE EXIT

I

300

394

www.countryrv.co.nz | 0800 288 860

PUBLIC ENTRY & RALLY BUS DROP OFF

H

516

J E

150

ENT RY

F

500

FH

286

130

140

398

BABY CHANGE AREA

ENTRY

FH

SS30

110

GATE PRIZE ENTRY AREA SS41

211 223

FIRE ALARM

E 212

ENTRY

FH

ck

OS43

FH

P10

100 SS39

SS15

208

FIRST AID

FH

SS32

SS14

204

TOILETS

FIR EE XIT

SS34

Stop ’n Stay

P9

D

200

ENTRY

FIRE EXIT

3000

3000

P RI V AT E S ALE A RE A

3000 3000

B

Stop ’n Stay

3000

3000

SS5 SS6 SS7 SS8 SS9 SS10 SS11 SS12

Stop ’n Stay

ENTRY

TOILETS

ENTRY

Power Pa

501

FIRE EXIT

P1 8000

A

SS3

TS BAR N EVEN CARLTO OS60

FIR EXIT E

FIRE EXIT

P2

SS1

ENTRY FH

SS35

FIRE EXIT

P3

SS36

3000

P5 P4

SS38

3000

P7 P6

TOILETS FH

EXIT ENTRY /

FOOD

Lilliput Vintage Caravans

ENTRY

OS85

LOGAN CAMPBELL C WAY

SHOW INFORMATION

P8

• Biggest No Reserve Auction at a motorhome or caravan show in New Zealand • $63,000 Bailey Caravan will be auctioned at no reserve • It must sell to the highest bidder • 12 months free insurance from Covi NZMCA Insurance • Baileys most popular model • Backed by the after sales service of Trail Lite • The auction is held in conjunction with Trail Lite and the Covi SuperShow • No phone bids accepted, you must be present and onsite to bid

D FOO

Shop and Drop

NZMCA bus stop (Puriri Drive Entrance)

BAILEY PEGASUS RIMINI CARAVAN

EST LANE W GREEN ORWAY) T (TO MO

PUR IRI D RIVE

FOOD

GATE 2 CE ENTRAN

PUBLIC ENTRY

3 OS8

Scooter & Wheelchair hire

ENTRY/ EXIT

80 OS

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Hikobike ........................................................... 2.................................211 Horowhenua District Council ........................... 1.............................. SS36 Icarus Imports ............................................ Outside......................... OS26 Ilusion.............................................................. 2.................................240 Instant Baches ............................................ Outside......................... OS13 Jayco Caravans ................................................ 6.................................600 Jurgens............................................................ 3.................................333 Kayaker ............................................................ 5.................................545 KEA .................................................................. 3.................................375 Kiwi Fuelcards.................................................. 1.................................100 Kiwi Rail / Interislander .................................... 1................................ SS1 Kiwi RV Imports.......................................... Outside......................... OS46 Lance Caravans and Campers ...............Pururi Entrance........................P9 Lilliput Vintage Caravans............................. Outside......................... OS68 Liquorice Delights ........................................... 1................................ SS7 Magic Lock Bag Sealers................................... 7.................................737 Majestic Global ................................................ 5.................................506 Malibu.............................................................. 2.................................240 ManawatuNZ.co.nz........................................... 1.............................. SS35 Mango Scooters............................................... 7.................................731 McLouis ...................................................... Outside......................... OS35 Mec / Hot Cycles .............................................. 7.................................702 Merit RV........................................................... 3.................................398 MI Systems...................................................... 7.................................718 Mighway .......................................................... 7.................................727 Morello............................................................. 1............120,130,140,150 MTF Greenlane................................................. 7.................................710 Nationwide RV ................................................. 2..........................260,270 New Age Caravans ...................................... Outside......................... OS35 New Zealand Bed Company.............................. 7.................................701 New Zealand Motor Caravan Assn ................... 1.................................100 Ozpig Australia............................................ Outside......................... OS18

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Oztent & Weber................................................ ................................................ 2.................................294 Oztrail Trailer Campers ers..................................... 2.................................205 Pilote.......................... ........................................ 3.................................330 Pop Top Campers............................................. ......................................... 3.................................360 Positive Paeroa / Hauraki auraki District..................... 1.............................. SS23 Private Sales .......................................... ..........................................Puriri Entrance .................. P1-P9 Rapido ............................................................. 2.................................240 RV Direct..................................................... ................................................... Outside......................... OS42 RnRV ............................................................... 2.................................240 Roller Team...................................................... .................................................... 3.................................375 RSE (NZ).......................................................... ........................................................ 5..........................544,549 RV & Marine Supplies Supplies...................................... 5..........................560,570 RV Living ......................................................... 7..........................717,725 RV Motorhome Lifestyle Magazine .................. 5.................................541 RV Super Centre ...................................... ....................................3 & Outside................. 375,OS1 RVFinders ........................................................ 5.................................520 Saint Cycles / Auckland and E Bikes ....................... 2.................................276 Savebarn – Roadchief Caravans & C Campers.................. Outside......................... OS64 She Bikes He Bikes .......................................... 1.............................. SS15 Show Information ......................................... .........................................Foyer........................... Foyer Show TV ....................................................... .......................................................5 & 7.........527,714,722,726 Shuzi NZ .......................................................... 1.............................. SS11 Smart RV .................................................... Outside............... OS43,OS50 Stamping Booths ............................................. 1.............................. SS17 Stamping Booths ............................................. 2.................................255 Stamping Booths ............................................. 3.................................350 Stamping Booths ............................................. ......................................... 5.................................580 Stamping Booths ............................................. ......................................... 7.................................745 .................................... Outside......................... OS34 Stamping Booths ........................................

Stamping Booths ............................................. 6..............................Jayco Step Forward Orthotics cs .................................... 1................................ SS8

HALL

Auctions will be conducted daily at:

11am and 2pm

STAND

Sun Marketing.................................................. 3.................................390 Sunliner RV – Unicampa ............................. Outside......................... OS70 Supa Scoota..................................................... 2......................Concourse Sweepa NZ....................................................... 7...................709,738,745 Takacat.com ..................................................... 2.................................216 Tabbert............................................................. 3.................................333 Tamerlane Handicrafts ................................ Outside........................... OS6 Tararua District................................................. 1.............................. SS38 Thetford New Zealand ...................................... 5.................................516 TOP 10 Holiday Parks Group ........................... 1.............................. SS18 Tourism Central Otago ..................................... 1.............................. SS14 Tow-Bars 2 Tow-Cars NZ ............................ Outside......................... OS14 Traillite ............................................................. 3.................................301 Tranztec RV Motorhomes................................. 2.................................201 Travelmixa........................................................ 1.............................. SS28 Travelog Dairies ............................................... 1.............................. SS10 True Kit Boats for Motorhomes ........................ 2.................................208 UCC Motorhomes ............................................ 2..........................284,286 Urban Adventure .............................................. 7.................................706 VA Camper Storage.......................................... 7.................................713 Vantage RV ...................................................... 5.................................500 Venture Taranaki .............................................. 1.............................. SS32 Visit Whanganui............................................... 1.............................. SS34 Viva Expeditions............................................... 1.............................. SS16 Voyager Motorhomes....................................... 3.................................398 VTNZ................................................................ 1................................ SS3 Waikato River Trails ......................................... 1.............................. SS30 Whale Watch Kaikoura ..................................... 1.............................. SS22 Winnebago....................................................... 3.................................330 Wireless Nation................................................ 1.................................100 ZenteQ ............................................................. 7.................................730 Zion Motorhomes ............................................ 1............120,130,140,150

FREE SEMINARS

Upstairs, above the main foodcourt

Seating is on a first-come first-served basis.

10.30am every day: Understanding vehicle charging systems – Cameron Moore, REDARC Electronics

11.30am every day: The electric bike revolution – Saints Cycles and Auckland E-Bike Centre

12.30pm every day: The buyer’s guide to purchasing a

motorhome – Mandy Davies, TrailLite Motorhomes and Caravans

1.30pm every day: Travel Tips for a Motorhome Holiday in Australia – Belinda Mason, Gallivanting Oz

2.30pm every day: Secret Life of a 3-Way fridge – Robert

Ferguson, Dometic

3.30pm Friday & Saturday only: Gas and electrical

compliance – Lex Ward

2018 DAILY FREE SEMINARS sponsored by

Super Centre

NZMCA INSURANCE

NO RESERVE AUCTION

GATE 1

FH

IT FIRE EX

JAYCO

Your Insurance

600 Jayco Pavilion

PUBLICY ENTR

Gate Prize stamping booths: SS17, 255, 350, 580, 745, OS34, JAYCO

Show Information Submit Gate Prize Entry

OS68 Lilliput ans arav Vintage C

N

Bar Area – Outside

FH

FH

Food

FH

OS70

Coffee Karts

OS64

TRAILLITE Seminar Area

(upstairs above main Foodcourt)

Stop ‘n’ Stay

GRANDSTAND VILLAGE GREEN

Derek the Chef

FOOD

Accessory Prize Entry Area

to Greenlane West Road

ATM/CASH OUT

FIRE ALARM

SS44

SS46 SS48

SS26

SS17

Stop ’n Stay

Stop ’n Stay SS29 SS28

SS16

DEREK THE CHEF SS51

SS25

120

C

SS23

SS22 SS21 SS20 SS19

SS18

201

294

205

217

255

FIRE EXIT

HALL 1

284

310

Apollo Enterta

530

552

390

375 301

560

ENTRY / EXIT

inment

536

537

725

ee ry Marqu Accesso all 7) ((H

717

701

710 706

702

333

276

TOILETS

5770

Accessory Prize Entry Area

755

734 738

763

260

270

240

G

370

F FIRE EXIT

FIRE EXIT

FIRE EXIT

HALL 2

FH

360

FIRE EXIT

350

FIRE EXIT

344

LOGA AN CAMPBELL THEATRE (HALL 5)

330

OS30

746

ENTRY / EXIT

OS26

OS1

Drop Shop n

er Supntr e Ce

J

OUTSIDE AREA

OS6

OS14

OS18 OS21

DAILY NO RESERVE AUCTIONS

OS17

OS13

A series of No Reserve Auctions will be conducted during the Covi SuperShow. We will announce the location and the items to be auctioned over the PA system 20 minutes prior to each auction.

Please refer to www.supershow.co.nz for auction details

OS9 TRE ER C EN RV SUP IVE PARKING R TEST D

FH

FIRE EXIT

OS10

OS22

ck Power Pa

ENTRY / EXIT

FIRE EXIT FH

OS35

745

742

ENTRY / EXIT

OS34

741

730

714

549

737

726

718

709

FIRE EXIT

G

HALL 3 COMPANY

HALL

STAND COMPANY

AA Solar & Sun Power Plus ............................. 5.................................510 Absolute Marine & RV...................................... 7.................................763 ACM ................................................................. 3.................................344 Allisee .............................................................. 3.................................333 ALM Group ...................................................... 3.................................333 Aoraki Tourism................................................. 1.............................. SS19 Apollo Entertainment Ltd ................................. 5.................................537 ATM Machine ......................................... Foyer, Outside.................... OS80 Auckland Motor Homes ...........................3 & Outside.............. 310, OS35 Auto Sleeper .................................................... 3.................................301 Auto Trail.......................................................... 3.................................310 Avida ................................................................ 3.................................333 Awakeri Rail Adventures .................................. 1.............................. SS25 Bailey Caravans................................................ 3.................................301 Barz Optics....................................................... 1.............................. SS26 BEP Power Products........................................ 7.................................729 Benimar ........................................................... 3.................................301 Bessemer Cookware ........................................ 7.................................755 Bivouac Campers ........................................ Outside......................... OS17 Bluebridge........................................................ 1.............................. SS44 BOP RV ....................................................... Outside......................... OS22 Burstner ...................................................... Outside............... OS43,OS50 Bus and Coach New Zealand............................ 2..........................260,270 Busy Body Auto Refinishers........................ Outside........................... OS9 Carado ........................................................ Outside......................... OS43 Carlton Bar.................................................. Outside......................... OS60 Carthago .......................................................... 2.................................240 Ci Motorhomes ........................................... Outside......................... OS30 Coastal Motorhomes........................................ 3.................................300 Country RV ...................................................... 2.................................255 Covi NZMCA Insurance .................................... 1.................................110 Credit One ........................................................ 2.................................223

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Deluxe – Pilote, Winnebago ............................. 3.................................330 Derek the Chef ................................................. 1.............................. SS51 Destination Kaikoura ........................................ 1.............................. SS21 Dethleffs........................................................... 1............120,130,140,150 Diamond Motorhomes ...........................Puriri Entrance ......................P10 Discovery Expeditions, Queenstown ................ 1.............................. SS46 Dometic ........................................................... 5.................................501 Duralite Modular Systems................................ 7.................................734 Dynamo Electric Bikes ..................................... 2.................................204 eBike Centre..................................................... 2.................................200 Ebo Electric Bikes............................................. 2.................................217 EKKO Magic Wipes .......................................... 1................................ SS9 Elddis Motorhomes and Caravans.................... 2.................................220 Emtex NZ ......................................................... 1.............................. SS12 Enertec Marine & RV........................................ 5.................................515 Euro RV....................................................... Outside......................... OS80 Experience Mid Canterbury Tourism ................ 1.............................. SS20 Explorer Caravans – Merit RV .......................... 2.................................298 Explorer Motorhomes ...................................... 3.................................370 Fenwick’s ......................................................... 7.................................742 Fifth Wheel Tourers ..................................... Outside......................... OS21 Fist Aid............................................................. 3......................Concourse Fleurette Motor Homes ............................... Outside......................... OS34 Flying Cat Ebikes.............................................. 2.................................212 Frankia ............................................................................120,130,140,150 Fridgetech Marine & Outdoors......................... 5.................................515 Gallivanting Oz ................................................. 5.................................536 Gate Prize Entry ............................................... 1.............................. SS41 Generator Place........................................... Outside......................... OS85 Go Rentals .................................................. Outside......................... OS10 HCB Technologies ............................................ 5.................................521 Hercules Instant Shelter................................... 7.................................746

Come and join us for your chance to win this fantastic auction or even just to witness the action When: 12pm, Saturday 17 March Where: Outdoor food court, ASB Showgrounds, Greenlane

OS34

731

722

713

541

729

727

TOILETS

D

OS42

OS46

580

FH

220

OS50

521

527

520

216

515

506 510

544

255

FIRE EXIT

I

300

394

www.countryrv.co.nz | 0800 288 860

PUBLIC ENTRY & RALLY BUS DROP OFF

H

516

J E

150

ENT RY

F

500

FH

286

130

140

398

BABY CHANGE AREA

ENTRY

FH

SS30

110

GATE PRIZE ENTRY AREA SS41

211 223

FIRE ALARM

E 212

ENTRY

FH

ck

OS43

FH

P10

100 SS39

SS15

208

FIRST AID

FH

SS32

SS14

204

TOILETS

FIR EE XIT

SS34

Stop ’n Stay

P9

D

200

ENTRY

FIRE EXIT

3000

3000

P RI V AT E S ALE A RE A

3000 3000

B

Stop ’n Stay

3000

3000

SS5 SS6 SS7 SS8 SS9 SS10 SS11 SS12

Stop ’n Stay

ENTRY

TOILETS

ENTRY

Power Pa

501

FIRE EXIT

P1 8000

A

SS3

TS BAR N EVEN CARLTO OS60

FIR EXIT E

FIRE EXIT

P2

SS1

ENTRY FH

SS35

FIRE EXIT

P3

SS36

3000

P5 P4

SS38

3000

P7 P6

TOILETS FH

EXIT ENTRY /

FOOD

Lilliput Vintage Caravans

ENTRY

OS85

LOGAN CAMPBELL C WAY

SHOW INFORMATION

P8

• Biggest No Reserve Auction at a motorhome or caravan show in New Zealand • $63,000 Bailey Caravan will be auctioned at no reserve • It must sell to the highest bidder • 12 months free insurance from Covi NZMCA Insurance • Baileys most popular model • Backed by the after sales service of Trail Lite • The auction is held in conjunction with Trail Lite and the Covi SuperShow • No phone bids accepted, you must be present and onsite to bid

D FOO

Shop and Drop

NZMCA bus stop (Puriri Drive Entrance)

BAILEY PEGASUS RIMINI CARAVAN

EST LANE W GREEN ORWAY) T (TO MO

PUR IRI D RIVE

FOOD

GATE 2 CE ENTRAN

PUBLIC ENTRY

3 OS8

Scooter & Wheelchair hire

ENTRY/ EXIT

80 OS

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Hikobike ........................................................... 2.................................211 Horowhenua District Council ........................... 1.............................. SS36 Icarus Imports ............................................ Outside......................... OS26 Ilusion.............................................................. 2.................................240 Instant Baches ............................................ Outside......................... OS13 Jayco Caravans ................................................ 6.................................600 Jurgens............................................................ 3.................................333 Kayaker ............................................................ 5.................................545 KEA .................................................................. 3.................................375 Kiwi Fuelcards.................................................. 1.................................100 Kiwi Rail / Interislander .................................... 1................................ SS1 Kiwi RV Imports.......................................... Outside......................... OS46 Lance Caravans and Campers ...............Pururi Entrance........................P9 Lilliput Vintage Caravans............................. Outside......................... OS68 Liquorice Delights ........................................... 1................................ SS7 Magic Lock Bag Sealers................................... 7.................................737 Majestic Global ................................................ 5.................................506 Malibu.............................................................. 2.................................240 ManawatuNZ.co.nz........................................... 1.............................. SS35 Mango Scooters............................................... 7.................................731 McLouis ...................................................... Outside......................... OS35 Mec / Hot Cycles .............................................. 7.................................702 Merit RV........................................................... 3.................................398 MI Systems...................................................... 7.................................718 Mighway .......................................................... 7.................................727 Morello............................................................. 1............120,130,140,150 MTF Greenlane................................................. 7.................................710 Nationwide RV ................................................. 2..........................260,270 New Age Caravans ...................................... Outside......................... OS35 New Zealand Bed Company.............................. 7.................................701 New Zealand Motor Caravan Assn ................... 1.................................100 Ozpig Australia............................................ Outside......................... OS18

HALL

STAND COMPANY

Oztent & Weber................................................ ................................................ 2.................................294 Oztrail Trailer Campers ers..................................... 2.................................205 Pilote.......................... ........................................ 3.................................330 Pop Top Campers............................................. ......................................... 3.................................360 Positive Paeroa / Hauraki auraki District..................... 1.............................. SS23 Private Sales .......................................... ..........................................Puriri Entrance .................. P1-P9 Rapido ............................................................. 2.................................240 RV Direct..................................................... ................................................... Outside......................... OS42 RnRV ............................................................... 2.................................240 Roller Team...................................................... .................................................... 3.................................375 RSE (NZ).......................................................... ........................................................ 5..........................544,549 RV & Marine Supplies Supplies...................................... 5..........................560,570 RV Living ......................................................... 7..........................717,725 RV Motorhome Lifestyle Magazine .................. 5.................................541 RV Super Centre ...................................... ....................................3 & Outside................. 375,OS1 RVFinders ........................................................ 5.................................520 Saint Cycles / Auckland and E Bikes ....................... 2.................................276 Savebarn – Roadchief Caravans & C Campers.................. Outside......................... OS64 She Bikes He Bikes .......................................... 1.............................. SS15 Show Information ......................................... .........................................Foyer........................... Foyer Show TV ....................................................... .......................................................5 & 7.........527,714,722,726 Shuzi NZ .......................................................... 1.............................. SS11 Smart RV .................................................... Outside............... OS43,OS50 Stamping Booths ............................................. 1.............................. SS17 Stamping Booths ............................................. 2.................................255 Stamping Booths ............................................. 3.................................350 Stamping Booths ............................................. ......................................... 5.................................580 Stamping Booths ............................................. ......................................... 7.................................745 .................................... Outside......................... OS34 Stamping Booths ........................................

Stamping Booths ............................................. 6..............................Jayco Step Forward Orthotics cs .................................... 1................................ SS8

HALL

Auctions will be conducted daily at:

11am and 2pm

STAND

Sun Marketing.................................................. 3.................................390 Sunliner RV – Unicampa ............................. Outside......................... OS70 Supa Scoota..................................................... 2......................Concourse Sweepa NZ....................................................... 7...................709,738,745 Takacat.com ..................................................... 2.................................216 Tabbert............................................................. 3.................................333 Tamerlane Handicrafts ................................ Outside........................... OS6 Tararua District................................................. 1.............................. SS38 Thetford New Zealand ...................................... 5.................................516 TOP 10 Holiday Parks Group ........................... 1.............................. SS18 Tourism Central Otago ..................................... 1.............................. SS14 Tow-Bars 2 Tow-Cars NZ ............................ Outside......................... OS14 Traillite ............................................................. 3.................................301 Tranztec RV Motorhomes................................. 2.................................201 Travelmixa........................................................ 1.............................. SS28 Travelog Dairies ............................................... 1.............................. SS10 True Kit Boats for Motorhomes ........................ 2.................................208 UCC Motorhomes ............................................ 2..........................284,286 Urban Adventure .............................................. 7.................................706 VA Camper Storage.......................................... 7.................................713 Vantage RV ...................................................... 5.................................500 Venture Taranaki .............................................. 1.............................. SS32 Visit Whanganui............................................... 1.............................. SS34 Viva Expeditions............................................... 1.............................. SS16 Voyager Motorhomes....................................... 3.................................398 VTNZ................................................................ 1................................ SS3 Waikato River Trails ......................................... 1.............................. SS30 Whale Watch Kaikoura ..................................... 1.............................. SS22 Winnebago....................................................... 3.................................330 Wireless Nation................................................ 1.................................100 ZenteQ ............................................................. 7.................................730 Zion Motorhomes ............................................ 1............120,130,140,150

FREE SEMINARS

Upstairs, above the main foodcourt

Seating is on a first-come first-served basis.

10.30am every day: Understanding vehicle charging systems – Cameron Moore, REDARC Electronics

11.30am every day: The electric bike revolution – Saints Cycles and Auckland E-Bike Centre

12.30pm every day: The buyer’s guide to purchasing a

motorhome – Mandy Davies, TrailLite Motorhomes and Caravans

1.30pm every day: Travel Tips for a Motorhome Holiday in Australia – Belinda Mason, Gallivanting Oz

2.30pm every day: Secret Life of a 3-Way fridge – Robert

Ferguson, Dometic

3.30pm Friday & Saturday only: Gas and electrical

compliance – Lex Ward

2018 DAILY FREE SEMINARS sponsored by

s e s E a R e l O » M s » MORE new re cials » MORE n pecial brands » MORE spe E brands » MO R E O R M O » a M s e s a e l e r w e n i MORE E TH M » U O Y 0 T n a D L R O W RV ne ec MOR ase MO cia MO MO and NO RESERVE AUCTION » M w r ACCESSORY SUPERMARKET nd MO ew eas ciaCOME ALONG – AND BE IN TO ORE WIN A TRIP TO THE UK & EUROPE R O ses M s l a OR Win BAILEY PEGASUS OR nds RIMINI CARAVAN M re 4 ds OR THE CHANCE TO WIN w ase $10,000 CASHBACK ial RE es ORE ls ORE ds » ORE ele MO RE sp ORE brands » MO MORE brands » » M travel

32 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

G N I G N I BR

The 2018 Covi Motorhome Caravan & Outdoor SuperShow will be the biggest motorhome and caravan event New Zealand has seen, there will be more exhibitors, bigger exhibits than ever before and to top that off, we will be displaying the very best from all around the globe.

Exhibits will feature the cream from the UK and Europe, North America, Asia, Australia and of course New Zealand. These will include vehicles from Auto Trail, Swift, Avida, Roller Team, Elddis, Dethleffs, Trail Lite, Jayco, Carthago, Tribute, ACM, Bailey, Winnebago, Burstner, and Ci to name a few. We also feature a private sale second hand area. So, if you are in the market for a motorhome or caravan you will find it at the Covi SuperShow.

A new feature of the 2018 show is an area focused solely on accessories.

The Accessory Supermarket will provide visitors with unprecedented choice and variety. In fact, the new accessories area is bigger than 10 tennis courts!

Ensuring there will be something for everyone.

There will be multiple opportunities to win, with 2 x daily prize draws in the accessories area. All you need to do to win is spend $50 in the accessories area, show us your receipt and go into the draw.*

h the Visitors to the Covi SuperShow will have opportunity to win the trip of a lifetim me – a four week motorhome holiday in the UK and Europe, courtesy of the RV Super Centre.

The fabulous gate prize – which is open to all purchasers of tickets to the show – includes return tickets for two to London and then four weeks Just Go motorhome hire in the UK and Europe – enabling our winners to immerse themselves in the great sights of Europe.

weeks

motorhome holiday in the UK&EUROPE *conditions apply

The Covi SuperShow is well-known for Covi NZMCA Insurance its great $10,000 cashback offer. In conjunction with Covi NZMCA Insurance the Covi SuperShow organisers are again giving $10,000 cash to one lucky visitor who purchases a motorhome or caravan at the show or in the two weeks after the show (you must have registered at the show).

You will then go in the draw to win $10,000 cash. Ts&Cs apply.

*

• Biggest No Reserve Auction at a motorhome or caravan show in New Zealand • $63,000 Bailey Caravan will be auctioned at no reserve • It must sell to the highest bidder • 12 months free insurance from Covi NZMCA Insurance • Baileys most popular model • Backed by the after sales service of Trail Lite • The auction is held in conjunction with Trail Lite and the Covi SuperShow • No phone bids accepted, you must be present and onsite to bid

Come and join us for your chance to win this fantastic auction or even just to witness the action When: 12pm, Saturday 17 March Where: Outdoor food court, ASB Showgrounds, Greenlane

travel

USA

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 33

»

Find your feet on

BROADWAY A walk through New York’s theatre district brings the characters of the stage to life, writes Mark Kennedy

V

isitors to Times Square looking for some theatre history may be discouraged by flocks of Elmo impersonators, Statues of Liberty and Naked Cowboys. A good guide is as important as a stiff elbow.

Guides can tell you where Barbra Streisand made her Broadway debut, which Broadway theatre is haunted by a former Ziegfeld girl wearing a green dress and which theatre was strictly segregated.

I jumped aboard four walking tours of the theatre district.

BROADWAY UP CLOSE Highlights: Ducking inside the massive AMC Empire 25-movie complex on 42nd St to find a hiding former Broadway theatre inside; story and photos of the secret apartment above the Belasco Theatre; hearing about the bizarre shenanigans atop a theatre built by Oscar Hammerstein I; learning why the colours of Equity cards constantly change.

Programme: Three tours, each about 1 hour, 45 minutes.

Cost: US$48 per adult, children (12 and younger) $41.

Days: Every day at 11am.

Selling point: Smart, funny and fascinating tours by founder Tim Dolan, a theatre veteran with an infectious style.

Accommodates: Up to 15 people.

Visual aid: iPad packed with photos.

Audio: Guides wear a small speaker.

Meeting point: Depends which tour you take, but the first one starts at the Nederlander Theatre on 41st St between Seventh and Eighth Avenues.

Why choose them: “It has to be a tour guide who is passionate and it is their life. That’s important to me,” Dolan says.

Online: broadwayupclose.com

DISNEY ON BROADWAY: BEHIND THE MAGIC Highlights: Access to Disney Theatrical props at the New Amsterdam Theatre, including a chance to wear the coat from Mary Poppins; get into Ariel’s seashell tub from The Little Mermaid; handle some carbon graphite masks from The Lion King; and examine a fancy shoe from Beauty and the Beast.

Programme: 2 hours, 30 minutes.

Cost: $100 per adult; children (3-11) $90.

Days: Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings.

Selling point: The only tour to get you inside a Broadway theatre and to handle some real props.

Accommodates: Up to 25 people.

Visual aid: Laminated photos.

Audio: Each person gets a headset to hear the guide as well as listen to snippets of songs.

Meeting point: Duffy Square at 46th and Broadway by the George M. Cohan statue.

Why choose them: Stephen Oddo, co-founder of parent company Walks of New York says: “You can find information pretty easily on your own. To be able to go into a theatre, that’s a whole different story.”

Online: takewalks.com/new-york-tours INSIDE BROADWAY TOURS Highlights: Gossip on actress Ethel Barrymore (she hated clutter and, weirdly, applause); visiting the Hotel Edison where a scene from The Godfather was filmed; learning about theatre superstitions (“break a leg” and not saying “Macbeth” out loud).

Programme: 1 hour, 45 minutes.

Cost: Adults $48; children 12 and under, free.

Days: Every day at 4pm.

Selling point: Cheerful, knowledgeable guides, all working actors and theatre fans.

USA

Yonkers

Manhattan Queens

New York Brooklyn Staten I

Checklist NEW YORK

GETTING THERE United Airlines flies daily from Auckland to New York, with Economy Class return flights starting from $2404.43. Valid for travel until June 19 and from October 15-December 15. united.com ONLINE VisitTheUSA.com

Accommodates: Up to 20 people.

Visual aid: Laminated photos.

Audio: Guides wear a small speaker.

Meeting point: Duffy Square at 46th and Broadway by the George M. Cohan statue.

Why choose them: “It’s the authentic, immersive nature of our tour,” says Andrew Luan, the founder.

Online: insidebroadwaytours.com

WALKIN’ BROADWAY Highlights: The story of the night Bill and Hillary Clinton went to Chicago; honouring Firehouse Engine 54, which lost many on 9/11; listening to Judy Garland sing Plays the Palace outside the Palace Theatre; the story of 20-year-old Julie Andrews’ fitful start in My Fair Lady; finding out why there are so many Irish pubs near Times Square; learning how the TKTS booth works and getting a list of tips on finding discounted theatre tickets; listening to hits written in the Brill Building outside the Brill Building.

Programme: 90 minutes.

Cost: Adults $41, children (6-12) $28.

Days: Daily at 9.30am, 11.30am and 2pm.

Selling point: Guides are working actors who treat the tour like a show, complete with songs, impromptu dancing and recorded stories from Broadway royalty.

Accommodates: Up to 26 people.

Visual aid: None.

Audio: Each person gets a headset to hear the guide as well as an impressive collection of show tunes and snippets of interviews with figures such as Chita Rivera, Hal Prince and Alan Menken.

Meeting point: The Actor’s Chapel (239 West 49th St, between Broadway and Eighth Avenue) Why choose them: “Hearing the music of the musicals while you do it, brings it to life,” says co-founder Don Frantz, a Broadway producer.

Online: walkinbroadway.com — AP

travel

34 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

USA

» DRIVE The scenic Overseas Highway is where visitors can drive from Florida’s mainland and cross countless coral and limestone islets through the Florida Keys. Mostly over water, the drive from Miami to Key West take less than four hours, but allow extra time to enjoy stops along one of the most scenic drives in the world.

EXPERIENCE The new Astronaut Training Experience at Florida’s Kennedy Space Centre gives visitors the chance to train in different types of astronaut simulators. Practise landing a shuttle, hone your docking skills, navigate the Mars terrain and experience the sensation of a spacewalk.

A cool coastal cocktail Miami blends Florida’s laid-back charm with a fiery Cuban spirit, writes Roger Crow

B

oom! Boom! Boom!

“Hold on,” yells Captain Matt, the engine of his boat roaring like an unleashed animal.

My heart’s racing as we bounce from wave to wave, the familiar Floridian skyline a backdrop to my sun-kissed adventure.

I knew I should have worn a suit jacket, sleeves rolled up like some 80s TV detective.

It’s too hot for that but crashing through the surf near Gloria Estefan’s house on the aptly named celeb-filled Star Island, it’s hard for any former 1980s teen not to imagine themselves as a Miami Vice crimebuster.

While Jan Hammer’s title theme plays on my mental jukebox, our Ocean Force Adventures’ skipper guides our boat over the next wave.

I find no shortage of glorious attractions on my travels around town, including the 2000 stars of Everglades Alligator Farm, and the more amiable aquatic life at Miami Seaquarium.

Marine parks can be either amateurish or corporate but both of these have a big heart.

I’ll admit I’m a little unlucky with the weather and there are downpours (one of which creates a superb rainbow over Miami Beach).

But there’s no shortage of indoor attractions to distract travellers.

I head downtown to Pamm (Perez Art Museum Miami) to absorb some of the paintings and

sculptures, instead of raindrops; a vege burger at waterfront eatery Verde is an added bonus.

My mental battery charges like a phone plugged into the mains.

As glorious as Pamm is, I soon lose my heart to another attraction: the jaw-dropping Wynwood Walls and arts district turns me into a kid on Christmas morning.

This neighbourhood, filled with murals, galleries, hipster breweries and cool bars, is hugely rewarding.

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GENERAL: Travel agent service fees are not included. Prices are correct as at time of printing & may be subject to change without notice. Prices are based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Minimum & Maximum stays may apply. Closeout periods may apply over school holidays & special events. Premium date surcharges

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 35

WALK Guided walking tours are a great way to learn about distinctive, local takes on iconic Miami.

An art deco tour will give you an introduction to the famous architectural style which will no doubt see you recognising iconic buildings from films as well as the famed Villa Casa Casuarin, better known as the Versace mansion.

ADVENTURE A 90-minute drive from Miami, the subtropical wilderness of the Everglades National Park is a spectacular place for nature lovers and adventure seekers. Brave the swamplands on an airboat for an opportunity to get close to a wild gator, get knee deep in a guided slough slogging wet hike tour or enjoy a leisurely ride on a birding and photo expedition.

Miami nice WHERE TO STAY Some might recognise The Biltmore Hotel from Will Smith’s first Bad Boys movie. It’s visually stunning and boasts the Fontana restaurant and courtyard, perfect for those al fresco breakfasts and dinners. biltmorehotel.com

U S A

Gulf of Mexico

Atlantic Ocean

Florida Miami

Checklist FLORIDA

GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Los Angeles, San Francisco and Houston, with connections to Miami with partner airlines.

From left: The Spanish-style Biltmore Hotel built in 1925; the art deco district of Miami South Beach; Wynwood District; a beach on the Altantic side of Islamorada in the Florida Keys. Pictures / 123RF, Getty Images

door to a micro brewery and geek chic bar, J Wakefield Brewery, decorated with Marvel and Star Wars ephemera.

My inner 10-year-old has never been so happy.

Miami is my favourite new cocktail of a holiday, blending the best of Florida’s laid-back charm with a fiery Cuban spirit.

Given the wealth of options on offer, it’s hard not to enthuse about this jewel in America’s crown.

— AAP

Given the chilled party atmosphere, I wonder how safe the region is.

“There are some ‘sketchy’ areas,” explains Amanda, one of Urban Spirit Art Crawl’s guides, her red cowboy boots and whip-smart attitude summing up the spirit of the region.

All global neighbourhoods have their good blocks and bad blocks but I feel more at home here in Miami than many nightlife spots on home turf.

Leaving the edgy urban art gallery, we go next

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WHERE TO EAT If you want to cram as much into a dining odyssey as possible, Miami Culinary Tours offers a great South Beach roving food experience.

You can have a spicy empanada in one part of town, sample a plantain and pork dish at Larios (Gloria Estefan’s eatery), soak up classic Art Deco architecture, and try the gelato for dessert a few blocks away. miamiculinarytours.com The Meat Market is a high-end restaurant and bar on Lincoln Rd. The cool, sophisticated ambience makes it ideal for that special occasion or final night in town, as long as you dress to impress. meatmarketmiami.com WHERE TO DRINK For the best views of Biscayne Bay head to Bar at LVL 25, named after its position on the 25th floor of the Conrad Miami hotel. Visit between 4pm-7pm, Monday to Friday for happy hour. Or head to South Beach and the famous Art Deco district for a rooftop pool lounge with a 70s vibe.

Highbar at Dream South Beach has views of the former Versace Mansion. conradhotels3.hilton.com; dreamhotels.com/southbeach WHERE TO SHOP The Miami Design District is the home of upmarket shops and galleries — the region’s equivalent to Rodeo Drive. But if you prefer bargains, head to ayside Marketplace or Dolphin Mall. miamidesigndistrict.net; baysidemarketplace.com; shopdolphinmall.com WHERE TO DAY TRIP Less than two hours’ drive from Downtown Miami is Islamorada in the Florida Keys — by all accounts it’s a laidback beach destinatinon and a much better alternative to Key West. Or try Naples, two hours’ drive from Miami on Florida’s west coast.

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Q Mastercard lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. HW2167wk7_2x16

travel

36 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Holiday Snaps

Where: Salt

Lake Temple, Salt Lake City

How: The capital of Utah is a fine start or end point for a road trip of this

gorgeous state. Give yourself a day or two in Salt Lake City to catch a Utah Jazz NBA match and to see the vast home of Mormonism.

Why: Temple Square, the beautiful headquarters of the The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, is one of Salt Lake City’s top attractions.

Church members will happily give you a tour — saves them coming to visit you, I guess — highlighting the dramatic architecture, sprawling gardens and vast artworks telling their story of Christ. The tour won’t take you inside the actual temple — only members of the church can go in.

Anyone can see the 360-strong Mormon Tabernacle Choir — they perform in the Tabernacle at 9.30am on Sundays and the public are welcome to hear them rehearse every Thursday at 8pm. You could also lose a lot of time researching genealogy in the Family History Library, home to the largest collection of genealogical records in the world.

Online: visitutah.com Words and photo: Winston Aldworth

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 37

travel

38 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Europe

»

Exhilaration and/or sheer terror can strike in a Malaga gorge, writes Philipp Laage

T

he guide is sympathetic as the walkers head off up one of the scariest hiking trails in the world, telling them his own little secret: “If you’re afraid of heights, that’s fine. I’m scared of heights too.”

The adventurers are walking the Caminito del Rey — the king’s little pathway — in Spain’s Andalusian province of Malaga. The trail is often billed as “the most dangerous in the world,” as falling off its ledges leads to certain death.

After fatalities, it was blocked off from the public for 15 years before being reopened in a safer form in 2015.

The morning autumn air quickly warms the day in southern Spain, and there’s a pungent smell of pines. From the car park in the small town of Ardeles, it’s about a 30-minute walk to reach the official starting point of the Caminito del Rey. There, each visitor is registered and handed a helmet. Not only can walkers slip, but there is real danger of rocks falling on them.

“Better safe than sorry,” says Juergen Nolle, the 43-year-old guide, who grew up in the Netherlands and has lived in Malaga for six years.

A business project brought about the creation of this path through tortuous terrain. At the end of the 19th century, a system of dams, pipelines and power plants was designed in order to tap the waters of the Guadalhorce River for electricity production. For this purpose, a water channel was built through the Gaitanes Gorge, and in order to service and maintain the channel, a trail was built. Construction began in 1901 and was completed five years later.

The trail earned its royal name after King Alfonso XIII of Spain walked it in 1921.

THE ROYAL WALK Over the years, the trail fell into disrepair and became increasingly treacherous. When three young people were killed in 2000, its use was prohibited. But soon there were plans for a new, safe path. Now, it doesn’t take too long for hikers to reach the middle part of the gorge. The path, hugging the walls of the gorge, often consists of stretches of metal-grille walkways through which one gets a glimpse of the dizzying depths below — often a vertical drop of up to 100m.

Despite cables to hold while edging forwards, many visitors move extremely cautiously, while Nolle energetically strides on out in front. He doesn’t give the impression that he is all that afraid of heights. The Caminito del Rey is,

Intrepid hikers tackle the Caminito del Rey in southern Spain.

Picture / Getty Images

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including the access trail, all of 8km. This means that not long afterwards, the hiker can sit down in a cosy inn at the other end.

Just before that haven is reached, the trail experience comes to its climax. Walkers edge along walkways bolted to the sheer wall. Below them is the old walkway: rusty and bent. They then have to cross a spectacular, featherweight suspended bridge with a view of the dam below.

The bridge is about 15m-long and you can feel it shaking as you cross. Those who by now have not overcome their fear of heights will certainly face a heart-pounding test here. Others will enjoy the airy heights and spectacular views.

— AAP

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Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 39

travel

40 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

»

Europe

Benvenuti a Milano

4

Most of the city’s older art galleries have good collections, held in impressive old palazzos. The Pinacoteca Ambrosiana is recommended for a display of Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus, a painting by da Vinci of a musician and Caravaggio’s painting of a basket of fruit, two of the most amazing paintings in all the city’s collections.

3

1

Milan’s Malpensa Airport is well served by international flights from New Zealand, and there are express trains to two of the city’s main train stations.

Go early to get tickets for the Duomo (pictured), or avoid the long ticket queue at the main office off the piazza by buying a ticket at the Duomo museum alongside. Female visitors have to buy cheap shawls to cover bare shoulders, so come prepared.

2

Cadorna Station is also the gateway to Lake Como, just an hour away by train for a day trip.

In Como you can get a hop-on, hopoff ferry ticket to explore the lake’s waterside towns.

pick your piece of the world 11

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Milan is famous for one more Da Vinci painting — The Last Supper. Despite its poor state, it is still a special experience to stand in front of the fresco in the chapel of the Santa Maria della Grazie and see it for real. Visits are limited to 15 minutes and you can’t buy tickets on the day — go to the official website and book ahead before you leave New Zealand. milan-museum. com/museums.php

save up to $5,000

Hokkaido

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13

Circle Japan Explorer

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Picture / Getty Images

Mike Van Niekerk shares tips from one of Italy’s most beautiful cities

(Port Chalmers)

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*Fares are per person twin share based on 12 night 6/12/18 sailing.

Higher fares may apply to other departures.

A 8 night duration and itinerary varies | B 9 night duration and itinerary varies C 11 night duration and itinerary varies | D 12 night duration | E 13 night duration F Itinerary operates in reverse order.

BOOK NOW! Visit your Travel Agent | 0800 780 717 | www.princess.com/printoffer *Fares are cruise only, per person, in NZD, in complete twin accommodation based on the lead category for each stateroom type, inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees and port expenses (which are subject to change). Supplements apply for other stateroom categories. Fares based on specific departure dates only. Higher fares may apply to other departure dates listed. Offer ends 30 April 2018 unless sold out prior. Princess Cruises has set aside a reasonable number of staterooms which are available at these fares. Once these staterooms are sold, fares may revert to a higher fare, but may also be discounted. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. All offers are subject to availability. Some oceanview staterooms have obstructed views. ~Comparison launch fares are based on fares launched into the market from April 2016. ^Onboard credit is per stateroom as marked on selected itineraries within this publication only and is applied to the first 2 passengers in a stateroom. Onboard credit offer does not apply to cruises 4 nights or less. Onboard credit is not transferable, non-refundable, not redeemable for cash and cannot be used at the medical centre or casino. †Airfare saving is per stateroom as marked on selected itineraries within this publication only and is applied to the first 2 passengers in a stateroom. Single occupancy cabins receive half the per stateroom airfare saving amount specified. Airfare saving offer does not apply to cruises 4 nights or less. Discount applies to Princess EZair bookings only and not combinable with any other offer. Discount only applies in conjunction with your cruise booking, is subject to availability and applies towards flights departing up to 42 days before and/or after your cruise. If the cruise booking is cancelled for any reason the flights will be automatically cancelled and cannot be used separately. Discount is not transferable, non-refundable and not redeemable for cash. Flight bookings will be subject to Princess EZAir Terms and Conditions available at princess.com/legal/passage_contract/. Any fees charged by the airline for changes, cancellations, excess baggage and other additional charges must be paid by the passenger. Accommodation prior to embarkation and after disembarking the cruise and transfers between the airport, hotel and cruise terminal are at passenger’s own expense. <3rd and 4th guest fare based on lead interior or oceanview stateroom when travelling with two adult twin fare paying passengers in the same stateroom, and is subject to stateroom configuration and availability. To be read in conjunction with the Booking and Passage Conditions available at princess.com/legal/passage_contract which passengers will be bound by. A credit card surcharge of 1.1% for Visa and Mastercard and 2.3% for AMEX, and a 1.0% surcharge for PayPal will apply to direct bookings made through our website or call centre. Travel agents may charge additional fees - check with your travel agent. Carnival plc trading as Princess Cruises. ABN 23 107 998 443

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 41

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*Conditions apply. SEE: travelmarvel.co.nz/specialdeals for full conditions. Prices are per person (pp), NZD, twin share and include port charges. Prices are correct as at 6 March 2018. Prices based on URJWCV19: 4 August 2018, URJEVV21: 2 September 2018 and URE17: 6 September 2018. Prices are based on Ocean-View Staterooms on the Holland America Line cruises. The Rocky Mountaineer on the URJWCV19 map is optional and is not included in the advertised price. Enquire for details. OFFERS: Limited seats on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A non-refundable deposit of $3,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. TM4273

travel

42 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Families

»

Despite her misgivings, Belinda Henley lives through a short trip to London with her flowergirl daughters

W

hen my two daughters were asked to be flower girls at my cousin’s wedding, it’s fair to say excitement levels were high. But there was a catch — they were getting married in the Cotswolds. As in the Cotswolds, England, on the other side of the world.

The girls’ hopes were crushed all too quickly, after I rolled out all the excuses I could think of; too far, too expensive, too much time off school. But a few weeks later spurred on by my impulsive workmates and cheap flights to Europe, I booked. And there was no turning back.

Six months later, after an intensive savings campaign and endless questions, we found ourselves in the Emirates lounge at Auckland airport, me downing Moet and them bottomless lemonade as we prepared to embark on their first long-haul flight. And when I say long haul, I mean very long — it’s 16 and a half hours from Auckland to Dubai.

We were unbelievably lucky on the first leg, the marathon journey made so much more bearable by the fact the plane was only half full and we had a spare row to spread out in. The staff made a real fuss of the girls, giving them soft toys, blankets and activity books, I got some sleep and all was good. On the quick stop in Dubai, we fully embraced all the lounge had to offer including a hot breakfast, decent coffee, freshly squeezed juice and a shower. After a second, much shorter leg, we arrived in London.

Having not been back to London in eight years and never with kids in tow, I was worried what it would cost to entertain them during our fourday stay, and how they would cope with the crowds. But, thankfully, what I quickly learned is you don’t need to spend a fortune to keep them happy. Their biggest highlights were (almost) free. Riding the double decker bus, the Princess Diana memorial playground and eating Pret A Manger sandwiches in Hyde Park.

There are however, some outings which aren’t quite so affordable. Set foot in Hamleys toy shop and you may well have to sell a kidney in order to make it out without a tantrum. My youngest was quickly taken by the “build a bear” concept where you custom-make your own soft toy. Once you have selected your new best friend, it is stuffed and then there is endless selection of clothing and accessories. Two hours later, Grace had Roxy, and I needed a cup of tea and a lie down.

While building bears may not necessarily be money well spent, some activities are. Going to a show in the West End is an experience they will remember forever and well worth every penny. We went to Matilda, which was so good it left us all in tears. As was the tour of Buckingham Palace with the family friendly audio guide. Much to their disappointment, we didn’t see where Wills and Kate sleep, or where their kids play, but it’s still an exciting look into how the other half live.

We found some hidden treasures which we

SURVIVING LONGHAUL

WITH

KIDS London Paris

Dubai

Checklist LONDON

GETTING THERE Emirates flies from Auckland to London Heathrow and Gatwick, plus Stansted from June, via Dubai. Return Economy Class fares from $1669. emirates.co.nz

returned to day after day. Crumbs & Doilies cupcake shop just off Regent St offers different flavours each day, so we just had to go back to sample them. And we found some great, childfriendly and inexpensive pubs to dine at, like The Builder’s Arms in South Kensington.

Some days we walked for hours on end as we checked off almost every major landmark on our “to do” list.

The kids were exhausted, but for the most part happy, and I realised what a great city London is to play tourist in and despite the crowds, pollution, traffic and expense, it is actually a wonderful place for kids.

From its new home at St Pancras, we took the Eurostar to Paris. The experience of travelling by train is a world away from navigating a flight from one of London’s busy airports.

A quick check-in, through security, time to buy some snacks for the trip and we were on board.

The thought that we could go through a tunnel and when we emerged out the other side, be in a completely new country, was completely mind blowing for two provincial Kiwi kids. I hadn’t been to Paris in a decade and one of our best decisions was to opt for a “hop on-hop off” bus tour. We picked it up at the Arc de Triomphe, it was a glorious day and we spent two hours taking in all the sights, getting off at the Eiffel Tower for a crepe and a closer look. We also went for an hourlong cruise down the Seine which was included in our ticket price.

With just three days in this magical city, I was reluctant to spend one of those at Disneyland Paris. But, constant begging and pleading by the kids (along with some excellent good behaviour bargaining from me) saw us on on board for the 45-minute train ride to the “happiest place on earth”.

While smaller that the California version it has just as much appeal and the kids were

entranced from the moment we walked in the gate. With the obligatory mouse ears purchased, we plotted our course around the park.

They have an excellent “fast pass” system where if a ride is busy, you can take a ticket for a set time later in the day. When you return, you go straight to the front of the queue. If used strategically, this can almost eliminate queueing times. Our favourite rides were The Buzz Lightyear Ride, Pirates of the Caribbean and Big Thunder Mountain, while old favourites like the revolving tea cups and It’s a Small World had lost none of their charm over the years.

We stayed for the evening parade, which features all the favourite Disney characters and is an absolute must. Covering the park in one day is a big ask and it was a quiet train trip home, with both kids fast asleep.

Paris was the end of our European adventure: our next stop was three days in Dubai on the way home. I had never been to Dubai before and had imagined it to be Las Vegas on steroids. I wasn’t too far wrong, but it was classier and more cultured with some of the nicest, most hospitable people we encountered on our trip.

Everything in that city oozes money and heat.

We were there at the tail end of summer, it was unusually humid with temperatures around 38C. We were staying at the Palace in Downtown.

The location is fantastic, next door to the world’s tallest tower, the 828m Burj Khalifa and the mindboggling Dubai Mall.

The Palace has spacious rooms, a stunning pool area, restaurants, spa, gym and front row seats to the regular fountain show on the Burk Khalifa lake. But perhaps most importantly, it is home to the most spectacular buffet breakfast I have ever experienced — crepes and pancakes made in front of you, fresh juices made to order, Middle Eastern delicacies, eggs every way you like and great coffee from a local roaster.

When the kids were too full to eat the donuts they had been eyeing up, the charming waiter

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 43

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took a plate of them to our room for us. And we had the best meal of our holiday at Asado, a South American style grill lakeside.

Our first outing there was up the stunning Burj Khalifa. The kids were fascinated by the building process and the facts and figures behind this extraordinary structure.

We went to 148 storeys and the views are mindblowing. Getting an aerial perspective of Dubai is an amazing insight into what the city’s planners have created in the middle of the desert.

The afternoon was spent at the Wild Wadi waterpark. With 30 rides and attractions there is something for the biggest wimp (Lazy River) and the biggest adrenalin junkie (Tantrum Alley and Burj Surj).

Our final day was some much needed down time by the pool as well as a trip to the Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo, which is part of the Dubai Mall. I am partial to a decent aquarium but this was next level, with not only sharks, stingrays and penguins, but also a 750kg “King Croc” shipped in from Australia.

The accompanying video on how they managed to get him to Dubai is fascinating. As well as creatures below the ocean, the “zoo” also features a recreated Amazonian rainforest with accompanying bird life.

You could spend hours in Dubai Mall, especially in hotter weather where the air conditioning is a godsend. As well as expensive and extensive retail offerings, there is the very best in fast food franchises, including the famous Parisian patisserie Kaiser and the New York’s Magnolia Bakery and the arguably the best burgers in the world, the all-American Fatburger.

Arriving, departing and transiting through Dubai is as painless an airport experience as you can have. It’s a huge, modern facility but well equipped for the millions of passengers who pass through it. And if you want an alternative to an Asian or American stopover en route to Europe, Dubai is a great option.

Belinda Henley and children enjoyed a whistlestop tour of London, Paris and Dubai, cramming in plenty of popular attractions. Pictures / 123RF; Belinda Henley

Ellerslie Event Centre, Guineas Room 2 & 3 80 Ascot Avenue, Remuera

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44 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Central America

MEXICO’S WILD BBC producer and director Victoria Bromley tells Stephanie Holmes Mexico is a must-visit for an adventurous holiday y WHY IS MEXICO A GREAT DESTINATION FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS?

Most people would be surprised to learn st that Mexico is one of the world’s most n biodiverse countries. Roughly seven times the size of New Zealand, it has an any astounding range of distinct habitats, many sco of them protected in Mexico’s 40 Unesco try Biosphere Reserves. This is a great country ellfor wildlife lovers looking to get off the wellbeaten Latin American track.

nching. (cowboys) cattle ra Mexican Vaqueros

Geoffroy’s sp ider monkey.

Picture / BBC

IF YOU COULD PUT TOGETHER A GS WILDLIFE ‘BUCKET LIST’ OF THINGS T VISITORS SHOULDN’T MISS, WHAT WOULD BE ON IT?

1

MONARCH BUTTERFLIES Where: Michoacan When to go: January to March ds’, we In our first episode, ‘Mountain Worlds’, celebrate one of Mexico’s most famous wildlife spectacles; the annual visit of the Monarch butterflies to Michoacan’s Oyamel fir forests.

After a journey of more than 4800km from the USA, hundreds of millions of large, orange butterflies cling to the tall trees, suspended in a ghostly torpor for the winter. It’s little surprise that for thousands of years the sudden arrival of these delicate creatures has been associated with the arrival of the spirits of the dead and Dia de los Muertos. As spring approaches and temperatures rise the butterflies become more active and cloud the skies, to mate before beginning their journey north.

Sadly, this ancient migration is now under threat due to climate change, so a visit to the butterfly sanctuaries should be high on any wildlife lover’s ‘bucket list’.

2

THE CLOUD FORESTS OF CHIAPAS Where: El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve When to go: February to April To capture one of Mexico’s most enchanting mountain worlds we travelled to the Sierra Madre de Chiapas, which has the most diverse and largest evergreen cloud forest in Mesoamerica.

The highly protected El Triunfo reserve can only

ans, BBC NHU 2017 Picture / Sophia Ev

flies in h butter Monarc

A Resplendent quetzal in flight (above); The temple ruins of Calakmul, a Mayan city that was home to over 50,000 people (below).

Pictures / BBC NHU 2016

Pic Mexico.

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be accessed on foot so we loaded our filming equipment and supplies onto a team of donkeys and followed them on a threethree hour hike up the mountain. Journeying into this misty, virgin forest was like stepping back in time, and the abundance and visibility of wildlife was astounding. Our cameraman had the rare treat of spotting a puma, right in the middle of a trail, and one night a tapir joined us at camp to lick salt from outside the kitchen.

For bird lovers, these forests are a paradise; the humming of the rare and bizzare male Horned quan resonates through the trees in February. In the heart of the forest you can also spy the ‘most beautiful bird in the Americas’, the aptly named Resplendent quetzal. The male’s vibrant green tail feathers, more than half a metre long, were valued by the Aztecs more than gold.

The reserve admits only a limited number of visitors each year and you must travel as part of a tour. The guides here are generous and knowledgeable and many were born in the reserve.

3

MONKEYS, JAGUARS AND MORE Where: Calakmul When to go: December to April Calakmul was once a thriving Mayan city but

NHU 2016

ha now returned to nature and has is the largest tropical forest reserve in Mexico.

In our second episode, ‘Forests of the Maya’, we show how the holistic agriculture of this ancient civilisation still provides a bounty an for wildlife. The Mayans planted trees throughout the city to have fruit year-round and this is a lifeline for monkeys in the dry months.

Visitors can spot spider and howler mon monkeys enjoying a meal while exploring the mon ruins ruin and taking in spectacular views across the jungle jung from the top of the pyramids. The reserve is also home to five of the six species of wildcat found in Mexico, including the revered jaguar.

4

WHALE WATCHING Where: Baja Peninsula and the Sea of Cortez When: February to April In our final episode, ‘Burning North’ we see a glimpse of the Sea of Cortez. While the shores are barren desert the Sea is one of the richest in the world, earning the title the “Galapagos of Mexico”. It’s frequented by the big hitters — blue, sperm, humpback, fin and killer whales, among others. One of my most memorable wildlife encounters in Mexico was filming the ‘friendly’ grey whales with their new calves in San Ignacio lagoon. Mother whales will approach boats and even lift their young up to be scratched and petted. It is a deeply moving experience to be up close with these giants. There are plenty of eco-friendly tour options on both sides of the peninsula.

WHAT DIFFERENT LANDSCAPES CAN YOU FIND AND WHAT MAKES THEM SO SPECIAL?

The sheer range of the landscapes in Mexico makes it stand apart. From the majesty of Chihuahua’s Copper Canyon (larger and

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 45

SIDE

quit expensive. Mexico City is the world’s No 1 quite city for traffic congestion, so I recommend using the metro system when exploring the capital.

WH WHEN IS A GOOD TIME OF YEAR TO GO?

Th The driest months are from December to April and this also happens to be a great time to enjoy Me Mexico’s wildlife. Hurricane season impacts the Ca Caribbean coast from June to November.

IS T THERE ANYTHING TRAVELLERS NEED TO WATCH OUT FOR IN TERMS OF DANGERS OR SAFETY CONCERNS?

in bastos al de A NHU 2016 t n e C e C le at th rris, BB s for sa e / Patrick Mo ld o ig r r Ma Pictu o City.

Mexic

16 BC NHU 20 Picture / B mingoes.

n, BBC NHU 2016 Picture / Lucy Nade

Flock of fla

tivities.

Day of the Dead fes

dee deeper than the Grand Canyon), Ca to the drama of active volcanoes lik like Colima and Popocatepetl and atmo atmospheric alpine fir forests in the Si Sierra Gorda, it can feel like you are cr crossing a continent rather than a si single country.

WH WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FA FAVOURITE MAN-MADE AT ATTRACTIONS THERE?

Me Mexico has a rich pre-Hispanic he heritage.

Mexico City is actually built upon the ruins of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan and you can find outstanding architecture

Me Mexico is well set up for tourists and if you are tr travelling as part of a tour group your safety an security is assured. As with any country, and tourists can be the victims of petty crime in major cities and independent travellers should do their research, to be aware of any specific secu security issues impacting individual states.

and temples right in the heart of the modern metropolis. A short trip out of Mexico City is Teotihuacan, at one time one of the largest cities in the world. The Aztecs discovered this ancient complex abandoned and called it the “birthplace of the Gods” and it’s easy to see why it inspired the name. The mystery of who actually built these impressive pyramids remains to this day.

WHAT ARE THE MEXICAN PEOPLE LIKE? ARE THEY WELCOMING OF TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS?

Friendly and family oriented, with a strong sense of hospitality. You will find a warm welcome, delicious food and plenty of offers of mezcal. Our aim with this series was to get past the stereotypes of sombreros and tequila and surprise audiences with the diversity of Mexico’s wildlife, landscapes and human cultures, and to celebrate its little known natural wonders.

IS IT AN EASY COUNTRY TO GET AROUND?

Mexico is a large country so plan your trip wisely.

There are many wildlife and eco-friendly tour options available. You can hire a car and drive in Mexico with an NZ license, though rentals are

* Victoria Bromely is the producer and director of Wild Mexico, a three-part series premiering on BBC Knowledge, Saturday March 17 at 8.30pm

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46 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Cruising

»

9

On board the Harmony of the Seas, Brandon Presser sees how 2200 crew members work 24 hours a day to make sure 6300 passengers stay happy and healthy

A

t a time when travellers are feeling more precious than ever about “authentic experiences”, the cruise industry is doubling down on the exact opposite: completely manufactured fun. Leading the pack is Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd, whose mega-ships are destinations themselves: its restaurants, Broadway-calibre musicals, casinos, silent disco parties, skating rinks, karaoke, dance clubs, and escape-the-room experiences are such strong lures, some guests don’t even bother to look up to see where the ship is docking.

So when Royal Caribbean International invited me to join the ranks as temporary director of its largest ship, Harmony of the Seas — as big as five Titanics — I knew I was signing up for the most manic week of my life.

As cruise director, my primarily responsibility was seeing to the happiness of 6322 passengers and 2200-plus crew. Over the course of a week, I had my hands in every department, from ship activities and entertainment to onboard revenue, making sure that everyone and everything worked in, well, harmony. From stocking the world’s biggest buffet and staving off gastrointestinal disasters to hosting celebrity guests, everything is 10 times crazier when you’re mayor of a city that’s floating in the middle of the sea.

There is secret cruise code language It’s crucial for the staff to have code words so passengers don’t get freaked out if something goes wrong. A “30-30” means the crew is asking maintenance to clean up a mess; three times during my stint I called in a “PVI” (public vomiting incident). An “Alpha” is a medical emergency, a “Bravo” is a fire, and “Kilo” is a request for all personnel to report to their emergency posts, which happens in the event of, say, a necessary evacuation. Be wary of “Echo,” which is called if the ship is starting to drift, or “Oscar,” which means someone’s gone overboard. A crew member told me he’s had only four or five “Oscars” in 10 years of cruising.

Drunk guests can’t outsmart the on-board bartenders If you thought those all-you-can-drink beverage packages were directly correlated with drunk debauchery at sea, think again. Only eight to 10 per cent of passengers purchase unlimited booze packages — Royal Caribbean’s guests are largely family travellers — and those who do are carefully monitored. Every single alcoholic beverage is poured with a jigger. Intoxicated passengers can have their SeaPasses (onboard credit cards) temporarily disabled, barring them from being served at any of the ship’s bars. As for the most popular alcoholic beverage ordered on board? It’s a cinnamon fireball shot.

According to Ivan De La Rosa, the ship’s senior doctor, the biggest issue involving alcohol is when the ship is docked in Cozumel, Mexico. Mix an afternoon of unregulated drinking on land at Senor Frogs with tropical heat and a few glasses of Mexican tap water, and you’ve got yourself a guaranteed “PVI”.

Cruise staffers regularly engage in subliminal messaging The first thing guests likely see in their cabins is a gleeful jingle about handwashing looping on their television screen. It’s catchy as a Katy Perry song and meant to steer you toward Purel pumps around the ship, each carefully positioned at high-traffic junctions (think entrances to the main dining halls and theatres) by senior staff. Along with the MCs’

On the surface all is calm . . . ; inset, the trio of water slides on Harmony of the Seas; an onboard stage show.

Pictures / Robert Pittman; supplied

travel

things I never knew until I ran the world’s largest cruise ship

banter at large group events — “Have you washed your hands 50 times today? I have!” — the jingle is part of the crew’s unwavering effort to stave off a potential Norovirus outbreak.

But sanitation is just one aim of the frequent subliminal messaging. Special promotions around the ship encourage passengers to scatter when certain areas become congested, and moving guests around the ship subtly encourages them to diversify (and increase) their onboard spending. If casino revenue is low, for instance, senior management might host a raffle or karaoke event at the far side of the slots to drive foot traffic and encourage passengers to linger a while. Activities managers will even film their daily newscast about onboard events with Starbucks iced coffees in hand, as a quiet reminder that passengers can get their venti latte fix on Deck Six. These veiled announcements are often aimed at boosting the ship’s bottom line.

There is a cruise ship burn book Dru Pavlov, veteran cruise director and my mentor during this Royal Caribbean stint, keeps a hallowed book of stupid comments and questions; passed down from one cruise director to the next as a rite of passage, it makes great vamping material for event MCs. The book Pavlov bequeathed to me included such doozies as: “Where’s the elevator to get to the front of the ship?” Others include “Is the toilet water drinkable?” and “How long does it take the crew to get home every night?” My favourite contribution came three days into my tenure, when a passenger stopped me to complain that she could no longer find her cabin. The ship had been parked backwards, she claimed.

All cruise guests basically eat the same things Freezers on board Harmony of the Seas are the

size of New York studio apartments — and stocking them is an art form. Before each sailing, the inventory team receives enough ingredients for 20 different dining venues, plus servings for the 2000-member crew. (The total cost, including such other consumables as paper towels, is about NZ$1.09 million.) Over-estimate the order, and the voyage becomes less profitable (and wasteful); underestimate, and you’ll risk a riot over coconut shrimp.

Luckily, passengers’ eating habits are fairly predictable. On the average week-long cruise, Royal Caribbean estimates its guests will be 80 per cent American, consuming around 3000 bottles of wine, 3200kg of chicken breast, and almost 100,000 eggs.

If more than 80 per cent of the guests are American, the crew orders extra ketchup. When the percentage of Chinese passengers increases, they bump up the supply of sliced fruit, seafood, and rice. Latin Americans consume more red meat and Coronas (which also requires additional limes). And family-prone Spring Break cruises require three times as many chicken nuggets. The one thing that never changes no matter who is on board? Toilet paper. About 9600 rolls are used each week.

Every ship has an “outbreak prevention plan,” with a hair trigger Nothing is scarier to cruisers than a Norovirus outbreak — which ship’s doctor De La Rosa says is almost always caused by a passenger who has brought the illness aboard, rather than poor sanitary conditions on the ship.

The US Health Department requires that every ship maintain a detailed OPP, or Outbreak Prevention Plan. On Harmony, regular sanitary conditions are called “OPP1,” and they get ratcheted up to “OPP2” when there’s a “6 in 6,” or six passengers reported ill in six hours. (You’ll know OPP2 is in full gear when the crew gets less subliminal about its “wash your hands” messaging.)

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 47

ally every nook and cranny of the ship, it’d be easier to rob a bank than take a bite of some forbidden fruit. (Though some crew members still use Grindr or Tinder to get a sense of who’s on board.) … but the staff quarters are a genuine Love Boat With 2200 crew, the staff quarters are a village unto themselves, with cabins, bars, a mess hall, shop, and gym set across decks 0, 1, 2, 3, and 12. (Most services are set off a second-deck corridor dubbed “I-95.”)

Among the crew, dating is not just allowed but tacitly encouraged — they live onboard through the entirety of their contract without days off, often 10 months a year.

They have their own calendar of daily events that range from karaoke sessions to poker games and foreign language classes. And since Wi-Fi is pricey, romance is very much analog.

Coupling up on the ship is like dating in dog years: Things move about seven times faster.

Several crew members recounted instances when they put in a request to share a cabin with their new boyfriend after only a month of dating, or dropped the “I love you” bomb within the first week of meeting someone. And since relationships often end once one person leaves the ship, cruise couples tend to become “lifers”. (Almost everyone I met in upper management met their spouse on board.)

If the incidence rate escalates and the situation reaches OPP3, guests lose the ability to handle their own food. The entire crew, from the ice dancers to the synchronised swimmers, is recruited to the buffets to help serve, and all restaurants and guestroom linens are put in red biohazard bags and obsessively laundered in a special facility on land.

If you want to avoid Norovirus like, well, the plague, stay away from short sailings, says figure skater and veteran crew member Chris Mabee.

“Those trips tend to be the least-expensive, attracting both older passengers, who are prone to getting sick, and the young booze cruisers, who forget about hygiene.”

As for the most common diagnoses at sea? They include upper respiratory infections, bruised bones, and the odd Viagra mishap. Urinary tract infections are also frequent, thanks to frisky

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honeymooners, and prescribing antibiotics can be hairy when passengers are committed to their all-you-can-drink packages.

Crew members are trained to deal with handsy passengers . . .

Sleeping with a passenger will get you “chicken or beef”, as Pavlov puts it — “That’s what a flight attendant asks you when you’re put on the first flight home”.

The zero-tolerance policy seems to be an industry-wide standard — at Royal Caribbean, there’s even staff training on how to defuse an escalating situation. More often than not, it’s a holidaying guest trying to seduce a crew member.

“Whenever I take photos with people, I always give a thumbs-up,” notes Pavlov. “My hands are visible, so no one can claim any inappropriate behaviour.” And with cameras covering virtu-

The ship has genies, and they can perform magic Although bargain-basement discounts draw plenty of travellers to big-ship cruising, procuring Royal Caribbean’s VIP status can offer a true luxury experience. The easiest way to get it is by booking into the Royal Suites Star Class; the company’s creme de la creme offering includes 10 state-of-the-art apartments on Harmony of the Seas, with privileged access to pleb-free parts of the ship and butler-style service from a coterie of “Royal Genies”.

The Genies are trained to cater to your every whim, but with limited resources at sea, this can require real creativity. Daniel, one of the genies, once had a couple ask for their suite to be filled with flowers. As he was unable to secure real bouquets, he had the pastry team bake dozens of petal-shaped cookies and scattered them around the room.

No matter how you earn your VIP status — or if you’ve earned it at all — my time on board proved that the crew will always bend over backwards to make sure you leave satisfied. Want to thank them? Tipping is great, but comment cards that explicitly name standout crew members make more of a difference. Your praise gets noted on their permanent record, earns them such onboard perks as free Wi-Fi, and helps secure promotions down the road.

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48 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

travel

Weirdest

HOTELS Eli Orzessek looks at some of the strangest places that booking.com rents out

Yellow Sub, UK Beatles tragics will love this houseboat in Liverpool Marina, themed to match Sgt. Pepper-era tastes.

Solent Forts, UK

Defensive forts built in the 1800s to fight off a French invasion that never came today offer a “private island experience”.

Kakslauttan Arctic Resort, Finland

Book And Bed, Japan Stay up all night reading in this Tokyo hostel that doubles as a bookshop.

Jailhouse Accommodation,

Christchurch The historic former Addington Prison farewelled its last long-term residents in 1999. It’s since reopened as a hostel.

Your personal igloo in Finnish Lapland offers the best possible view of the northern lights.

Crane Hotel, Amsterdam A former harbour crane, set 50m above the NDSM shipyard, Crane Hotel Faralda bills itself as a hotel for “creative and passionate free spirits”.

V8 Hotel, Germany A petrolhead’s dream: This racing-car themed hotel is next door to the MercedesBenz factory and you can sleep in a bed made out of a classic Citreon DS.

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travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 49

TA L K TO T H E C RU I S E E X P E RTS AT H OU S E O F T R AV E L

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travel

50 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

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travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 51

New Zealand

»

HE TANGATA: Glenn Edney

Glenn Edney freediving in Blue Maomao Arch at the Poor Knights Islands.

Picture / Martin Wallis

Elisabeth Easther meets Glenn Edney from Ocean Spirit

I

felt my first connection with the ocean when I was about 5. We visited Waitara Beach and I have this very strong memory of standing on the beach and being awed by the power of those massive waves. There was a real sense of, “wow there’s something beyond this, it’s just so big”.

Not long after that, I was still very young, and we got a television. The first thing I saw was a Jacques Cousteau film about sharks. It blew me away and right from that moment I thought ‘I’m going to be a diver on Calypso with Jacques Cousteau’. Obviously there was a generational issue and that didn’t happen, but right from the start I knew what I wanted to do with my life.

I did my first dive course in South Auckland. It was actually a bit daunting because, back in those days it was all pretty macho and naval in its approach. My fantasy was all about connecting with marine life and having beautiful adventures but it was more commando, heavyduty stuff, and that put me off for a while.

A couple of months after Kelly Tarlton died, in the mid-80s, I started working at his aquarium

as a diver. What I learned there was that I was in the water with individuals and personalities.

All the beings in the aquarium, all the sharks and rays and fish were having individual lives and experiences. This was profound for me and set me on the pathway to become an ecologist, a naturalist, to study behaviour and relationships. What is it like to be a fish, a shark or a whale? But I still needed to earn a living so I became a dive instructor, I got my skipper’s ticket and started working on boats.

In Tonga, in 2004, we acquired a whale-watching diving base to spend time with humpback whales, with the business funding our adventures.

Although I have felt nervous around some sea creatures. I’ve been in the water with great white sharks — but I realise the nervousness was self-generated and not coming from anything the animal was doing, it was purely my own internal dialogue. I imagined the fear.

Free diving in Tonga on a beautiful reef, this amazing female tiger shark just appeared beneath me. How can something 5m long just appear? But that can happen in the ocean. She was very curious about me and, with an entourage of pilot fish around her nose, she was this moving community, this beautiful being with so much power. We held eye contact for 200m as I swam back to the boat. I was well aware I needed to mind myself, but I felt no sense of danger. We weren’t communicating, we were just two beings in the ocean checking each other out.

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Their level of intelligence is so underestimated.

Most of the really cool and clever stuff that we have ascribed to ourselves has been going on in the ocean for millions and millions of years and that’s part of the draw of going back to the ocean. Plus it feels fantastic. Taking people out on a daily basis, almost every day, I’ll have a conversation with someone about how wonderful it feels to immerse yourself in ocean.

I’m lucky enough to have the islands of The Poor Knights — Tawhiti Rahi — as my workplace and my spiritual home. Working with Yukon Dive, skippering their boats, I have the best office in the universe. Part of my job is to facilitate a deeper connection, and the marine ecosystem around Poor Knights is one of the most sacred parts of the ocean — and people feel it. But it’s also one very tiny piece, and we need more than a couple of special places we protect, to go to and have a nice time in.

The rest of the ocean can’t just be the food basket, the dumping ground, the resource bank, we need to move beyond that and change our relationship with coastal waters and the ocean in general. If there’s one message I like to share with people, celebrate that you live on this amazing ocean planet. Fall in love with the ocean, because when you’re in love you’ll do everything you can to keep your lover healthy. oceanspirit.org; yukon.co.nz

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travel

52 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Opinion

»

Line-up, line-up: John Boulding looks at the backlash against ‘overtourism’

T

he travel press recently picked up on some TripAdvisor research identifying “the lengthiest lines at tourist attractions” around the world, aka: “the places tourists should avoid”. Interesting stuff.

Like TripAdvisor’s hotel review platform however, it just so happens this morsel of analysis furthers their commercial interests. The bespectacled owl nowadays sells “skip-the-line” tickets to those venues at tempting prices.

Clever marketing of course, although frustrating that this loss of impartiality perhaps takes away something from their concept of being a bastion of consumer review integrity.

No matter. This tale of investigation and touristic gridlock does have an upside. It throws the limelight on one of the bigger issues facing municipalities and the travel industry today: that of “over-tourism”. The term describes destinations where hosts or guests, locals or visitors, feel there are too many visitors and the quality of life in the area or the quality of the experience has deteriorated unacceptably.

It’s a subject that has become quite fashionable with columnists and bloggers over the past year or so; more so since the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) declared 2017 to

be the “International Year of Sustainable Tourism Development”. You see, iconic spots across the globe are being caught up in a “good tourism” v “bad tourism” struggle.

There will always be inhabitants in a destination who are positive (or at least benign) to the wandering hordes, because they benefit financially (either directly or indirectly) or lifestyle-wise from tourism. Then there are locals who experience the negatives — crowding, strained resources, higher prices, etc. — yet get little or none of the fruit. Many of them are becoming increasingly irked, vocal and even physical over their downright disdain of tourists.

Take a quick look at the numbers and it’s easy to understand the root of residents’ frustration.

According to the latest UNWTO World Tourism Barometer, global tourist arrivals grew by a mighty 6.4 per cent to June 2017, compared to a growth of 3.9 per cent in 2016. Try looking at it another way: 1.2 billion people (there are 7.6 billion on the planet) will cross international borders this year. This includes all kinds of travel, but you start to get an idea of the scale.

According to the latest UNWTO World Tourism Barometer, global tourist arrivals grew by a mighty 6.4 per cent to June 2017, compared to a growth of 3.9 per cent in 2016.

One of the plus sides of tourism growth is that around 292 million people are employed in jobs it creates. Many are at entry-level, so tend to be lower paid, but it is work nonetheless; and in some destinations, that’s a blessing. There’s more. The World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) suggests travel and tourism provides $7.6 trillion in direct and indirect contributions to global GDP. That’s a heck of a lot of money and it amounts to 10.6 per cent of total global GDP. Tourism can also do a power of good if it is managed properly. It can help conservation, preservation and the community. And when people meet others from different cultures and ways of life it can bring down barriers, challenge misconceptions and make the world politically a better, more stable place.

But the negatives are mounting in the minds of locals. Earlier this year we saw demonstrations in San Sebastian and crackdowns in Rome and Dubrovnik as locals vented their frustration at city-break tourists and cruise ships. In Venice, Mallorca and Barcelona the physical side of a wave of anti-tourism protests has fortunately so far been largely limited to tourist bus tyre slashing and the daubing of “Tourist Go Home” signs on walls.

In my many years of tour operating, I’ve seen the situation get steadily worse. The lines are real and the crowds are never-ending. The Eiffel Tower and Alhambra Palace are just two examples where the visiting process is quite broken. My old company, like others in escorted touring, overcame many of the obstacles by prebooking venues to avoid the lines, becoming

travel

Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 53

A sign of the times more flexible with our schedule, finding alternative experiences and developing offseason travel. We also had the advantage of only a relatively small group of people to move around for each trip and luxury transport to hand.

It remains a difficult challenge for the industry though. First time visitors especially will take some convincing not to visit the main attractions, and logistics don’t always allow alternatives.

What are the root causes of this surge? Well, partly it lies in deregulation of air travel and the rise of low-cost carriers. They facilitated the subsequent explosion of “city-break” travel, which in turn boosted year-round travel, so even low-seasons have shrunk. Then there is the burden of mass cruising, which has a huge impact on infrastructure in port cities where overcrowding peaks are truly stupendous.

Terrorism issues cause waves too, such as Tunisia and Egypt over the past few years. In Europe, this brought people in droves back to Spain and Italy for instance.

And we are seeing exponential growth in travel from “new” markets, including India and China. In 2011, Chinese international tourism spend was recorded at $73 billion. In 2016, it reached $261b. By 2021, CLSA (a leading Asian capital markets and investment group) estimates Chinese outbound tourism will reach 200 million travellers, with a spend of $429b.

The crush is widespread, and it could be Bangkok, St Petersburg or Milan. I’ve personally sat at a cafe on the dockside of tiny Santorini at 9am, and watched as cruise passengers started arriving on their shore-excursions to the island.

Tour name!y Danube Boat & Bike

There were six ships anchored in the Caldera that day and between them, no kidding, they disgorged nearly 19,000 people. After landing, they were herded into line upon line of cramped buses for a whistle-stop tour of the island, culminating in the old town where the streets were wall-to-wall jammed from 3pm onwards.

You can understand locals’ chagrin when you learn the average spend of cruise passengers that day would have been around ¤3 per head, according to research undertaken in Venice.

Tourism policy makers are concerned about achieving a balance. They want people to visit the icons a little less, or at least at non-peak times, and at the same time, get to places off the beaten track to spread the load.

That’s easier said than done of course. To have any chance of success it needs a strong push/ pull strategy to cajole and persuade. In simplistic terms this means a whole heap of investment and incentives in new product development and infrastructure creation to get people away from the icons. It requires a giant swag of marketing dollars to develop the concepts and convince

By 2021, CLSA (a leading Asian capital markets and investment group) estimates that Chinese outbound tourism will reach 200 million travellers with a spend of $429 billion.

consumers. And it needs a good dose of tough regulation to ensure the municipal stakeholders and travel industry players don’t simply perpetuate the easier route of status quo.

Tom Buncle, founder of the The Yellow Railroad consultancy, comes from a solid background in NGOs and tourism planning. He agrees that managing tourism growth sustainably, rather than letting it get out of control, is the answer. His fear is that, if destinations don’t manage their growth effectively, anti-tourist sentiment will prevail and tourism itself risks becoming demonised by the media and policy-makers. If that happens, there is a possibility some governments might turn their backs on tourism as a driver of economic development, social cohesion and environmental conservation, and exclude countries that have few economic opportunities.

So what now? Local authorities have already started to act. Barcelona has cracked down on unlicensed AirBnB rentals, Thailand has outlawed zero-based tour pricing, Venice has imposed a ban on new tourist accommodation and cities across the Med are starting to crack down on antisocial behaviour by tourists.

Operators too are trying to develop alternatives and change their schedules.

At least people are talking about the issues.

At the end of the day, it will come down to collaboration between cities, governments and companies. Like it or not, their (and our) interests are inherently aligned. travellingmanjb

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travel

54 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Pamela Wade flies from Auckland to Whakatane aboard Air Chathams flight CV820 The plane: Metro III — a pointy-nosed, brightly-painted little twin-engined turboprop so cosy inside that even the height-challenged can enjoy the novelty of having to bend over double in the tube-like cabin. It seats just 19 passengers in 10 1x1 rows and sounds as though it’s powered by a hive of bees.

Class: Just the one.

My seat: 7A over the wing. It was a snug fit, but perfectly fine for a such a short time.

Price: $77 for this one-way flight. Air Chathams offers prepaid multi-trip passes.

Flight time: 35 minutes — we arrived one minute late.

Winston Aldworth flies aboard United Airlines flight UA5988 from San Francisco to Salt Lake City The plane: An Embraer Regional Jet — ERJ175. These sleek little Brazilian-made jet hoppers service United’s domestic network under the banner of United Express.

It’s kind of a mini-A320. Quick to load people on and quick to load them off.

Seat: 24D. In the very back of the cabin — where, yep, the seat doesn’t recline and, yep, there’s a constant queue of people for the dunnies at the back. Normally, I’m an aisle guy, but on the short hop from San Francisco to Utah, it was nice to take in the cracking views of Nevada’s plains and craggy mountains. And it sure beats the aisle seat where strangers stand with their groin in your line of vision as they wait to pee.

Class: Very much Economy.

How full Chocka. There are 12 passengers in First Class, 16 in Economy Plus and 48 of us in Economy.

Time: It’s a 2hr flight. We were 40 minutes late getting away.

Fellow passengers: “I think this must be the Sundance Express,” a tall, movie-industry type says to a shorter, sleekly attired movie-industry type as we board. “Seems like everyone on here is heading to the festival!”

The festival, of course, being Robert Redford’s cinema showpiece which plays out in Utah every January. I was on my way there, too, as it happens. But I’m definitely not the movie-industry type.

Service: It’s an unpopular view, but I generally find the cabin crews on US domestic flights to be good value — on any of the major carriers. Yep, they might have a

careworn demeanour and a cynical rolled eye at the ready, but the briskness works for me: I’m just here to drink a can of soda and land somewhere else.

Entertainment: See below: Nevada’s plains and craggy mountains are stunning. The mountains get even craggier once you’re above Utah, approaching Salt Lake City from the west, the plane comes in over the famous Bonneville Salt Flats where — brace yourselves, movie-industry types: New Zealand film reference coming up! — Burt Munro did his stuff.

Food and drink: A small packet of pretzels as salty as the salt flats below helps to pass about 45 seconds of the flight.

Airport experience: I spent about 30 minutes wondering whether I should play coffee roulette at a cafe in San Francisco Airport. In the end, discretion got the better of valour. Watching customers and trying to judge (by their appearance and reaction to the coffee as they drink it) whether or not the coffee would be any good is surely one of the greatest sports ever devised for travellers.

In Salt Lake City, we exit the airport then drive past the site of an entirely new airport being built from scratch. It’ll be a fascinating project, as most airport rebuilds are hamstrung by the need to keep operating as a business — with planes landing and all that — while their rebuild goes on.

Final word: That’s a cut!

Picture / Pamela Wade

Fellow passengers: Only eight of us, just one in a suit. More were wearing Red Band gumboots (note: jandals are the minimum footwear permissible).

Entertainment: Two magazines promoting the Bay of Plenty and New Zealand tourism — but mainly the novelty of watching through the uncurtained doorway Captain Alan and First Officer Matt fly the plane.

Food & drink: Matt was far too busy up front to be bothered offering refreshments.

Toilets: You’ve got to be joking. It’s only half an hour. But do note that there’s not enough room to cross your legs.

Service: The check-in is friendly and personal, and we were ushered right out to the plane.

Luggage: The usual 23kg checked-in. There are no overhead lockers.

Airport experience: It’s a long walk to the plane at the Auckland end, but Whakatane Airport is dinky and cute, and the control tower looks like something out of Toy Town. When the plane door opens you can hear skylarks trilling and smell the curious cattle just over the fence.

Fly again? Certainly. Though if I were heading to the Chathams I’d hope for a bigger plane…

FLIGHT CHECK

OMNIBUS

Eli Orzessek flies aboard Air New Zealand flight NZ708 from Sydney to Auckland The plane: A nice new Dreamliner 787-9.

Class: Economy.

Price: Depends when you book.

Flight time: 2 hours 50 minutes. We left a little late and arrived at around 12.15am.

My seat: 36D, aisle seat in the middle row.

Fellow passengers: Seemed to be mostly New Zealanders returning home — the late flight’s good for that.

How full: Completely full from what I could see.

Entertainment: I had a mild ethical dilemma. I really wanted to watch It, the scary clown movie, but there was a child sitting behind me on the diagonal who looked to be around 9. There was nothing else I really wanted to watch, so I started it up — it got pretty gory within five minutes, so I turned it off again.

Picture / Alan Gibson

When I ascertained the child behind was fairly fixated on her own screen, I started it up again.

The service: Very good — I’m always pleased when

they give me the full can of Coke, rather than a paltry glass.

Toilets: About as clean as an airline toilet can be, halfway through a flight.

Food and drink: Chicken or the beef as normal. I went for the roast chicken thigh, as I’d already had “the beef” at the airport in the form of a McDonald’s cheeseburger combo. As a result, I wasn’t that hungry so just ate the veges and the caramel slice.

Luggage: 23kg checked, 7kg in the cabin. I was worried my checked bag would go over, as I’d bought a massively heavy comic anthology, but it was all good.

The airport experience: There was drama going down at the Air New Zealand counter involving what I assume was a missing staff member. Overheard the guy at bag drop saying something about going down to the carpark and smashing all his windows if he didn’t turn up in 15 minutes.

It was nice to not have to fill out a departures card — Sydney Airport has done away with them since my last visit.

The bottom line: Quick and painless.

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Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 55

Anna Harrison flies CX118 from Auckland to Hong Kong

Clockwise, from left, United Airlines flying in to Salt Lake City; boarding a Fiji Airways plane; a Cathay Pacific A350 airliner. Pictures / Winston Aldworth; supplied

Stephanie Holmes flies Fiji Airways FJ413 from Nadi to Auckland The plane: Boeing 737-700 Class: Business Price: From $1353 return.

Flight time: 2 hours 40 minute On time: We pushed back from the gate 10 minutes early and the flight was 25 minutes shorter than scheduled. This was very much appreciated seeing as it was a Sunday night 8.30pm departure and due to land at 12.35am Monday morning, and I had to be at work just hours later that day. As it was, we landed before midnight and I was home just before 1am.

Luggage: Up to two pieces of cabin baggage weighing 7kg each, or one piece weighing 14kg, plus 40kg of checked luggage.

How full: Of the eight Business Class seats, five were

The plane: One of Cathay Pacific’s new Airbus A350-900s.

I was travelling business and took advantage of the 180-degree reclining seats. There are 38 seats in business but my section had only eight so it was quiet and comfortable. Further back in the main cabin there are 214 standard seats and 28 in premium economy.

Seat: 20D On time: The flight time was advertised as a little over 11 hours but we ended up arriving 15 minutes early.

Fellow passengers: A daytime flight, not quite full, with few people in suits up front. The woman next to me was dressed down with her feet propped up in yellow socks with blue diamonds on them. I had just remembered, in the early hours of the morning, to choose a pair without holes.

Service: Friendly and professional with plenty of hot towels.

The lovely Patrick was very accommodating, patiently explaining to my friend how to say thank you in Cantonese.

Food and drink: The spiced duck starter with tamarind chutney was pretty tasty and the slow-braised beef was juicy and tender. The best bit was the mini cheese platter for afters with Puhoi and Kapiti well represented. But make sure you’re well caffeinated before you leave as the coffee was terrible — flavourless and lukewarm.

Amenities: Plenty of spots to plug in devices. The noisecancelling headphones helped me nod off and the little bag of Jurlique toiletries was perfect for freshening up afterwards.

Wi-Fi: Available after 10,000 feet for a fee (US$20 for flights longer than 6 hours).

Entertainment: A great selection of movies including a few new ones I’d been meaning to see at the cinema. Also a good choice of Asian films — the woman next to me was watching Bad Genius, about a student who runs an exam-cheating ring using barcodes on pencils.

Bathroom: Pretty standard but with a miniature white orchid on the door and the rosy scent of hand cream.

Price: From $2963 one way Luggage: A generous allowance that I wish I’d noticed before I packed, with three pieces, 23kg each, of checked luggage and two pieces, 7kg each, of carry on.

The bottom line: A very comfortable flight with friendly cabin crew and tasty food. Just make sure to choose a pair of socks worthy of the long-haul.

full. There appeared to be empty seats in Economy too.

Fellow passengers: Aside from me, a couple of Fijian businessmen and a Kiwi couple returning home from holidays.

My seat: 1C, with leg and foot rest and 18-inch recline.

It was roomy and comfortable and gave a good amount of personal space between me and the man in 1A. Entertainment: Business Class passengers are given an iPad loaded with movies, TV shows and music. I was very impressed with the movie selection — there were more than 20 to choose from, and at least five I wanted to watch. I chose Stronger, about Boston bombing victim Jeff Bauman and his recovery. I was glad the lights were dimmed, as I had a bit of a weep at the end. I felt bad for the Economy passengers who had to endure episodes of the Big Bang Theory on the drop-down screens.

Service: Excellent — attentive and caring.

Food and drink: Things got off to a good start with a coconut rum and apple juice cocktail before take-off, which helped ease my pain about my holiday being over.

Thomas Bywater flies aboard NZ573, from Auckland to Christchurch The plane: An Airbus A320.

Class: Steerage.

Seat: 24B. Entertainment: Ours was one of the first flights to screen Air New Zealand’s new Antarctic safety video, something the airline was evidently very proud of.

Watching Adrian Grenier and a waxwork of Captain Scott cavort around the expedition base, it definitely qualified as in-flight entertainment. Even the inflight mag, Kia Ora, was plastered with the ruggedly handsome Grenier in polar-expedition gear. It was a celebration of the airline’s connections with the scientific team at the Antarctic base, though all mentions of ill-fated flight 901 — which, in 1979, crashed into Mt Erebus very near Scott Base, killing 257 people — had been expunged.

Fellow passengers: A vegan, a vegetarian and a steakpie-eating omnivore get on to a plane . . . sounds like an extraordinary start to a very average joke. I was

Dinner was a choice of grilled spiced wahoo, beef, or pasta with blue-cheese sauce, followed by semolina cake ora cheese plate. I had the wahoo and it was tender and full of flavour. No room for dessert, as I’d gone a bit hard on the buffet in the excellent Fiji Airways lounge before boarding.

Toilets: Pretty standard airline toilets, apart from the luxurious Pure Fiji white ginger lily handwash and body lotion. The lighting was pretty severe and made me realise my last hours on Beachcomber Island had burned me to a crisp and I now resembled a leather handbag.

Airport experience: Excellent — the departures hall at Nadi’s international terminal felt spacious and peaceful, even when three flights were leaving at about the same time. Security and immigration was fast and easy for me — some American travellers were not having the same luck and were being questioned about the contents of their hand luggage and one guy was even led to the private room with a security officer.

Would I fly again? Yes please. Fiji Airways’ Business Class offering is great.

sandwiched in between my girlfriend and our healthyliving friend. We had paid the $7 each extra for the privilege of booking three seats together, rather than being assigned spaces at random. — one of the sneakier stealth charges of the self-check-in era. But at least we could sit together and air our grievances about this stealth charge.

Food and drink: After only 40 minutes in the air we were offered a cup of coffee and a cookie. A nice gesture, considering how short the flight was. There was even a bag of vegan-friendly corn chips. Everyone was happy.

Though I overheard a sigh that sounded suspiciously like: “No soy milk?”

Airport experience: At the girlfriend’s insistence, we arrived two and a half hours in advance of our 8.30am departure. An added hour’s delay meant there was little of Auckland’s domestic terminal we didn’t see. This included the over-scaled but under-supplied food court.

The two noodle bars and sandwich shop were all out of salad. There were no cucumbers. Not even for ready money. I self-consciously tucked into a Big Mac while my herbivorous travel companions scanned the departure boards, starving.

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56 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

ROOM CHECK

Stephanie Holmes checks into the Four Seasons Hotel, Boston, USA

Omnibus

Katrina Johns checks into Ormlie Lodge, Taradale

Picture / Warren Buckland

Getting there: It was a hard slog up the steep but beautiful tree-lined driveway at the end of a day of cycling. It is a 15-minute drive from the Napier airport, and only 5 minutes from Taradale.

History: Ormlie’s a beautiful old villa, built in 1899 as a wedding gift to Gertrude Smith from her wealthy father. It has retained all of the original grandeur, but with modern-day comforts such as underfloor heating.

How big?: Ormlie is a small luxury manor consisting of only six suites. Continental breakfast is included in the price.

Check-in experience: I felt significantly underdressed walking into this grand foyer in my cycling shorts but we were made to feel instantly welcome, given a quick tour, and then shown to our room where our bags and a big bottle of cold water was waiting for us — bliss!

Room: We were lucky enough to be placed in the Ormlie Suite for the night. The room featured 3.6m ceilings and the biggest bed head I have ever seen. It was all very regal and in keeping with a luxury Victorian manor. When I first sat on the king-size bed, it felt like a rock and I thought my sleep would be terrible — I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Although the bed was rather firm, after a long day of cycling I slept like a baby, and woke feeling really refreshed.

Bathroom: We had a generoussized bathroom with a large walkin shower, toilet, and under-floor heating. The ceiling was tongue and groove and really added an element of glamour and history to what was a modern, well-appointed bathroom.

Food and drink: Ormlie has a bar and small restaurant on site. Because of the size, bookings are essential but I can say the food is divine, particularly the desserts — all served in the lodge’s ornate dining room under crystal chandeliers.

Price: Rooms ranged from $265-$395 a night.

Contact: ormlielodge.co.nz Perfect for: A couple celebrating a special occasion, or looking for a relaxing place to stay. This isn’t a place for families, or for groups of youths, so the place is quiet and charming.

Picture / Supplied

Location: At the top end of Old Boston, a block or two from the brownstone- and tree-lined avenues of Back Bay, and opposite the tranquil Boston Public Gardens.

Check-in experience: The four men behind the opulent lobby’s check-in counter looked like the cast of Jersey Boys — all young, clean-cut, and dapper in expensive-looking suits. Mike looked after me and it was the most thorough check-in I’ve ever had. I left feeling that they really cared about whether or not I enjoyed my stay. (NB, he also took care of my check-out two days later and I had the same experience — top marks, Mike).

What’s in the neighbourhood? The public gardens and Boston Common are just across the street — beautiful green park spaces, the latter of which is the oldest public park in the United States. The hotel is also walking distance to many of Boston’s popular attraction: the Freedom Trail, which snakes around the historic sites of the city; the Boston Public Market, the high-end shopping of Newbury St, the Skywalk Observation Deck at the Prudential Building. There’s also a train station nearby.

Price: Expedia’s average room rate is $982 per night for a Deluxe Room.

Room: A King City View suite on the third of eight floors.

It was huge and beautifully decorated — everything was mostly white or cream, with splashes of yellow in the leather club chairs and ottoman. Large windows let in lots of natural light, and the carpets felt plush.

Belinda Feek checks into the Mercure Hotel, King George Square, Brisbane, Australia Getting there: Taxi, shuttle or — in my case — a chauffeur.

Check in: Was great with very friendly, efficient and welcoming staff, despite me arriving three hours before check-in.

Room: A medium-size room with queen size bed on the 13th of 16 floors, with TV, couch and separate bathroom. Air-conditioning, too, which is a must during summer in this city.

Price: According to its website it’s a very reasonable $122 per night.

What’s so good about this place: The location. King George Square and a plethora of shops and shopping malls are literally across the road.

The bad: I was surprised you had to pay for barista coffee at the breakfast buffet, something noticed by other guests who were not shy in expressing their disappointment.

Toiletries: The basics: shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, shower cap and sanitary bag.

Food and drink: There’s two bars, including a new rooftop bar, 16 Antlers. Unfortunately the weather

wasn’t on our side so we had drinks in the groundfloor bar instead, which was still nice. The buffet breakfast was tasty with an on-site chef to cook you eggs or an omelette.

The bed: A pretty comfy queen bed with amazing sheets. Hotel sheets always seem so superior to normal sheets.

Room with a view? Right out on to King George Square and City Hall with its attached clock tower.

Bathroom: Not overly big, but a very comfortable size.

Free Wi-Fi: Yes. Noise: Despite the clock tower being across the road, I didn’t hear a thing.

Room service: Yes. Value for money: Yes. Exercise facilities: Gym and pool on the top floor.

The pool was closed; the small gym had all the basics.

Perfect for? If you’re in town to watch the league, Suncorp Stadium is just down the road and a team usually stays there. The North Queensland Cowboys were staying there during our visit.

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Tuesday, March 13, 2018 | 57

Boston Public Gardens and Boston Common face the hotel. Right, the Four Seasons lobby.

View: Not much to look at in the City View rooms — just some of the surrounding buildings. Ask for a garden view room for a pretty outlook to the Public Garden.

The bed: Absolutely divine, like a big, white, Egyptian cotton cocoon. Others in my travel party thought it was too soft, but I just wanted to pack it in my suitcase and take it home.

Bathroom: Again, huge and luxurious, with a large marble walk-in rainhead shower, large vanity and excellent lighting.

Toiletries: L’Occitane products, which are just fantastic, and — unlike the bed — did make it home with me in my suitcase.

Food and drink: The lobby-level bar and restaurant The Bristol was like a lovely old American club lounge; all leather tub chairs, atmospheric lighting and a roaring fireplace. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available here,

ES

ED

CORT TOUR

as well as evening drinks. It’s popular with locals as well as hotel guests and on a chilly Thursday night, it was packed. The hot ticket at The Bristol is the yearly story-telling session, where a Boston-based celebrity comes to read stories to local children. Tickets go on sale in September and apparently sell out quickly — not surprising when you hear some of the former celebs who have read here. Just a few years ago it was supermodel Gisele Bundchen.

Exercise: The eighth floor has a gym and indoor lap pool, steam room, sauna and whirlpool (although the whirlpool was out of action for my visit).

Noise: During the day there was a bit of construction noise outside my room, but at night it was quiet.

Contact: expedia.co.nz Would I return? I would love to — it’s a welcome touch of luxury in the beautiful city of Boston.

Vietnam Laos Cambodia Including Angkor Wat

Includes: Return airfares flying Singapore Airlines 22 nights accommodation Most meals English speaking guides Cyclo Tour in Hanoi Farming and fishing life eco tour in Hoi An · All boat trips including overnight in Halong Bay Tour escort 19 May - 10 June 2018 · And much much more

Highlights Angkor Wat; Mekong River and Delta; Historic Chu Chi Tunnels; Halong Bay overnight Cruise; River Town of Hoi An; The Citiees of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh; Mountain Village of Sapa; Laos the long forgotten backwater

Toll Free: 0800 785 386 | Email: tours@pukekohe-travel.co.nz | www.pukekohetravel.co.nz/vietnam

P U K E K O H E T R AV E L

travel

58 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Letters to the Travel Editor The King is born in Tupelo!

Dear Sir, Memphis, Tennessee, is not the birthplace of Elvis Presley [“South’s driving rhythm”, Travel, March 6]. He was born in Tupelo, Mississippi.

He and his parents moved to Memphis when he was 13. One can visit his first home and a museum on what was Old Saltillo Road, now named Elvis Presley Drive, in Tupelo.

Bob Pearson, Unsworth Heights Advice not to be sniffed at Dear Sir, In the [March 6] Herald Travel magazine’s “We Like”, John and Norrie Pearce recommended Vicks First Defence Nasal Spray.

I have used this in the past with excellent results, travelling in Europe and the UK when swine flu was at its peak.

But it is now not available in New Zealand.

Could you please ask the Pearces where they got theirs from, and share this valuable advice with other readers?

This is an excellent product and deserves to be available for the travelling public, especially with the expected flu season soon to be upon us.

Thank you.

Di Monkley, Hamilton Allison Pearce responds: Well, the Blis probiotic lozenges — they should be able to get in any pharmacy but they are cheaper online at blis.co.nz and with a bigger selection. They are made in Dunedin. The Vicks First Defence nasal spray is not available these days in NZ but can be obtained from Amazon.

The Blis works amazingly well even just by itself.

Best regards Mao and then Dear Sir, [Re: ‘Beijing in three days’, Travel, March 6] On our first visit to China in 2003 (coinciding with the Sars epidemic, though we hadn’t heard about it!), we visited Mao’s tomb in Beijing on our first morning.

This was indeed a very interesting experience.

Having deposited our bags and camera in another building, as required, we waited in the queue as it slowly moved forward on the vast expanse of Tiananmen Square. Our fellow visitors to the tomb were mainly businessmen

ENCHANTING IRELAND AND SCOTLAND

Tupelo, Mississippi, gave us the wonder that was Elvis Presley. Picture / Getty Images

Got something to say?

Send your letters to the Travel Editor travel@nzherald. co.nz

in dark suits, many holding plastic flowers to place beside Mao inside.

As we shuffled into the room, the effect was quite dramatic. The figure was in a sort of golden glow, which gave Mao’s face a startling brightness. The businessmen laid down the flowers as we all moved slowly on. Out at the back, we were surprised to see that copies of The Little Red Book were being offered for sale — and the plastic flowers, constantly being collected from beside the General, were being whisked around to the front again for resale to new visitors!

Pamela Russell, Orakei Top tip Dear Sir, Regarding Kate Roff’s article [“Tipping points’, Travel, February 20]. I travel abroad frequently, including to the US, and have a simple principle — don’t tip. One reason is that my company prohibits tipping on expenses; the other is because I always pay by card and don’t trust

how the tip will be processed on the card.

The only problem I have ever experienced was at a waterfront cafe in Miami, where we had been pointed to go to get food before a boat trip; we had ordered first and as the others were heading to the boat with their food, we were still bereft so decided to pay. I was burdened with coins, so did the Kiwi thing and offloaded all my change to the server, only to be met with the response “obviously you need it more than I do”, slamming it on the table. In touristy places such as Key West we never experience problems — even as repeat customers, because we’ve found that rarity, good coffee! — and in these cases, we are welcomed back despite our previous non-tipping: something that supposedly shouldn’t happen!

Andrew Parsons, Orakei The Travel Editor responds: The nuance of tipping for service in the States is a mystery to me. And underpaying staff in the hope that customers will pay their wages for them is one of the reasons America feels like a cheap place to visit. Still, when in Rome and all that...

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Departure Lounge We like...

"

We don’t like...

!

The end of arrival cards! Even the census is done online now, so word from Statistics New Zealand that arrival cards could be gone by Christmas is another welcome step on our nation’s path towards the 21st Century.

The realisation that the Travel Editor’s brilliant business plan — pre-printed departure cards for the busy traveller who resents authority — is a dead duck.

Tell us what you like and don’t like in the world of travel. Email travel@nzherald.co.nz

WIN

A great camera is a travel necessity — capturing those memories is part of the magic. Not everyone wants to carry a professional camera though, so modern smartphones are extremely handy.

The new Huawei Nova 2i boasts high-quality features and reasonable price tag. With front and back dual-lens cameras, an expansive 5.9-inch FullView screen, automatic facial recognition unlock function, fun selfie templates and impressive battery life, it’s the ideal travel companion.

We have a brand-new Huawei Nova 2i to give away to one lucky reader, worth $499. To enter, head to our Facebook page (facebook.com/nzhtravel), find the Huawei post and share your best travel selfie in the comments. If there’s a great story behidn the selfie, then tell us about it.

We’ll publish a selection and choose a winner. Entries close Monday, March 19 at 4pm.

Travel Wires Dreamtime menus Tempted by Qantas’ 17-hour direct flight from Perth to London, starting on March 24? The menu devised by celebrity chef Neil Perry and University of Sydney researchers may help tip the scales. They’ve developed dishes “that encourage sleep at optimal times” during the 14,500km trip. They include a herbal tea with lemon verbena, chamomile and lemongrass to encourage relaxation; a hot chocolate bedtime drink to help the sleep cycle; ingredients that promote hydration (green leafy vegetables, cucumber, strawberries and celery) or probiotics to aid digestion. Poke bowls offer lighter options such as tuna salad and chilli to help people wake up.

Finnished with(out) men Lifestyle entrepreneur Kristina Roth has created SuperShe Island, a private retreat off Finland’s coast where no men are allowed. Roth says her aim is for women to holiday away from society’s pressures and embrace an all-female energy. The island sleeps 10 in four luxurious cabins, offering wellness activities and opportunities for bonding. Roth bought it — somewhat ironically — after her boyfriend introduced her to the beauty of Finland’s landscape. She picks the visitors herself after a vetting process on her website. Critics have branded the idea elitist and “a space created by a rich white woman for other women like her”.

Saudi opens door to tourists Also interested in attracting visitors: ultraconservative Saudi Arabia, which will finally introduce tourist visas from April 1. Part of wider social reform under Crown Prince Mohammed Bin Salman, it’s hoped the initiative will double the number of visitors — now largely religious pilgrims — to 30 million a year by 2030 and raise an additional $53 billion by 2020. Tourist highlights are likely to include the Great Mosque of Mecca, archeological site Mada’in Saleh and new Red Sea resorts. The country bans mixing of the sexes, alcohol consumption and, until recently, women driving.

Sardines fly cattle class British Airways, desperate to attract passengers and save money, will squeeze customers into narrower seats, with Economy passengers in spaces nearly 10 per cent smaller. Cattle class in 777s will contain 10 seats per row, instead of nine, from next year.

Part-owned by Qatar Airlines, the UK flag carrier is struggling to compete with budget rivals. It has stopped free food on short-haul flights and introduced paid-for sandwiches; reduced legroom on A320 and A321 Airbus aircraft; and is introducing no-frills Economy fares on long-haul flights.

— travel@nzherald.co.nz

60 | Tuesday, March 13, 2018

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