NZ Herald - Viva 4th December 2024

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CONTENTS

5LIFEINHONGKONG

HowHongKonglocalsnavigatelife

6HOWIMAKEITWORK

Viva chatstoHongKong-based filmmakerandproducerSophiaShek

7WHERETOSHOP

HongKongalsooffersample opportunitytoshopforsomething uniquelypersonal

14WHERETOEAT&DRINK

EatingyourwaythroughHong Kong’sexpansivefoodsceneisatrip

17ARTS&CULTURE

Museumsandartgalleriesdocument thepastandcelebratethefuture

19WHERETOSTAY

High-endhotelMandarinOrientalis oneofthecity’smostluxurious

22RECIPES

BringatasteofHongKonghome withAngelaCasley’srecipes

ONTHECOVER: MandarinOrientalguestservices

managerKarlMaglanalendsahand asmodelZiyingZhaofromQuest

Models–dressedinaGucciResort 2025look–walksthroughthelobby lounge.Behindthemisartbythe lateGerardHenderson.Photo/ BabicheMartens.Fashiondirector /DanAhwa.Hairandmake-up/ KrystinaTeKanawa.Shootassistant /EmmaGleason.

WITHTHANKS

ThisspecialHongKongissueofViva wasproducedwiththesupportof theHongKongTourismBoard. SeemoreatViva.co.nz

LIFESTYLEANDTRAVEL

EDITORPREMIUM

StephanieHolmes

LIFESTYLEANDTRAVEL

EDITORAUDIENCE

JenniferMortimer

CREATIVEDIRECTOR

DanAhwa

DEPUTYEDITOR

JohannaThornton

DESIGNER

LauraHutchins

MAGAZINESTEAMLEADER

IsobelMarriner

SUB-EDITORS

JillStanford,SueBaxalle, MaureenMarriner

MAGAZINESNEWSEDITOR

BrendaWard

EDITORIALINQUIRIES

Ph(09)3736400, viva@nzherald.co.nz

COMMERCIALINQUIRIES advertise@nzme.co.nz

Followus:@NZHVIVA

Vivatakeson HONGKONG

Forthisspecialcollector’seditionof Viva,theteamflewtoHongKonginsearchof theverybestithastooffer.Theoverarchingimpression?It’sacityofduality.Day andnightcollideasEastmeetsWest.Highandlowcuisineenjoyequalbilling(you’re spoiltforchoicewhenitcomestoitsvibrantdiningoutscene).Buthowtodistill theverybestintoonecurated,comprehensiveandcohesiveedit?Keepingyouour belovedreaderinmind,photographerBabicheMartensjoinsjournalistsDanAhwa andEmmaGleasononadeepdiveintoHongKongandcompiledtheverybestithas tooffer.Heretheysharesomeoftheirpersonalhighlights:

“AcherishedmemorywasourunexpectedvisittoBarLeone,rankedthesecond-best barintheworld.Walkingintothisneighbourhoodbar,Iwassurprised—itwasn’t whatIimaginedforsuchahighlyacclaimedvenue.Theinteriorwaslaid-backand unpretentious,yettheatmospherewasvibrant.Upbeatmusicfilledthespace,and weallfoundourselvessingingalongtofamiliartunes.Assoonasthedrinksarrived, itbecameclearwhyBarLeonehadearneditsprestigiousranking.Theservicewas impeccable,andthepassionandenergyofthestaffwereperfectlymatchedbythe exceptionalcocktails.”

—BabicheMartens,photographer

“Brightlights,bigcity!Fromthesoaringskyscrapersandfuturisticoutdoor advertising,tothepatinaanddenizensoftheolderneighbourhoods,andvestigesof WongKar-wai’sHongKong,thismetropolisisjam-packedfulloflifeandit’sallso beautiful.Constantlytornbetweenlookingup,gazingatthepeoplearoundme,and admiringtheefficiencyofthemanytransportoptions—trams!trains!redtaxis!— I’dwakeupearlyforamorningflâneurwalk,listeningtoFayeWong'sincomparable coverof Dreams.” —EmmaGleason,Lifestyledeputyeditor(audience)

“WhatIlovedaboutHongKongisthatanythingispossible.Itsturnaroundtime, itsefficiencyandofcourse,thelights.Whenyou’resittingonitsiconicjunkboats atsunsetasthevistawarmsupfortheirtwinklingextravaganza,it’shardnottofeel giddy.It’saconcretejungleofcourse,buttherearegreen,openspacestoenjoy; fromHongKongParktotheculturaloasisoftheArtParkinWestKowloon,itsbuilt environment,bothnaturalandman-made,makesitoneofthemostexcitingplaces intheworld.”

RoyalFlush

It'seasilyoneofthemostviralmakeupproductstocome outofHongKong:theworld'sfirstcolour-changing blushoilthatworkswiththeskin'snaturalpHtoachieve theperfectshadeofnaturalflush.TheYouthforiaBYO ColourChangingBlushOil,$63,hasexplodedonTikTok, withmanyuserscommentingontheproduct'sability tocreateauniversallyflatteringshade.FounderFiona CoChanwasdeterminedtocreateamakeuplinewith ingredientssogoodforskinyoucouldsleepinthem,so bothherandherhusbandworeandsleptinBYOBlush fortwomonthsduringthetestingphase.Thecolourchangingoilisbrimmingwith20skin-lovingplantbasedingredients,includingavocadoandsunfloweroils, alongsideYouthforia'sproprietarySkinChiComplex. Suitableforuseonallskintonesandskintypes,BYOBlush canbewornsoloormixedwithfoundationorskintintsto createatonalliquidblush.Availablefrom Youthfori.co with shippingtoAotearoaavailable.

RightNow

ResearchMaterial

Whetheryou’reheadingtoHongKongandwanttoschoolyourselfon theregion’shistory,orprefertotransportyourselfviathepage,these booksprovideaninsightfullookintothearchitectureandspacesthathave helpeddefinethecity.

Let'sTalk

Alongwithluggage,packtheseeasy,everydaywordsandphrasesinyour arsenalwhenvisitingHongKong.

Néihhóu —Pronounced“nayhou”,thiswordmeans“hello”inCantonese. Mh-goi —Meaning“please”or“excuseme”,“mh-goi”isaversatilewordthat canbeusedinvarioussituations,suchasgettingsomeone’sattentionorasking forassistance.Pronounced“m-goy.”

Dójeh— Whenexpressinggratitude,saying“dójeh”meaning“thankyou”goes alongwayinshowingappreciationforsomeone’shelporservice.Pronounced “dohjeh.”

Néihyīumhh?— Incommunication,it’simportanttoensurewhetherthe otherpersonunderstandsyourlanguage.Thiswordasks“Doyouunderstand?” andcanhelpensuresmoothcommunicationwhenencounteringlanguage barriers.Pronounced“nayyewmoh?”

Báaibáai— Whenit’stimetobidfarewell,“báaibáai”meaning“goodbye”isa friendlyandpolitewaytoendyourinteraction.Pronounced“byebye.”

OldHongKong:TheWayWe Were byLauKoonTan, $110, from Thelionrockpress.com

HongKongModern:Architecture ofthe1950s-1970s byWalter Koditek, from$241, fromallgoodbookstores.

CINEMATICQUALITY

DeepWater:PublicSpaces inShamShuiPoHong Kong,editedbyJürgen KruscheandSiuKing Chung, from$44,from Mccmcreations.com

HongKong’smagicallighthasprovidedthebackdroptosomeofcinema’smost belovedfilms.Ifyou’rethinkingofbookingatrip,addthesemustwatchmovies toyourresearchplanning.

1. IntheMoodforLove directedbyWongKar-wai(2000) InspiredbyHongKongwriterLiuYichang’sModernistnovella, Intersection (1972),thefilmisadreamysaunterthroughthemazeofHongKong’scityscape.

2. ChungkingExpress directedbyWongKar-wai(1994) SetinthebustlingdistrictofTsimShaTsuiinHongKong,thefilmfeatures ChungkingMansionsasacentrallocation.

3. Sparrow directedbydirectedbyJohnnieTo(2008) AbreezyromanticthrillerthatspotlightsoldHongKongthroughto CausewayBaydistrict.

Photo/BabicheMartens

AboutTown

ThebestwaytoexploreHongKongistoembraceits

meltingpotofculture,urbanplanninganddiversehistory

1

GETAROUND

Busescomeinseveralvarieties, includingdouble-deckersandsmaller, van-sizedlightbuses(whichrequiresome Cantonesefluency).

There’sagoodmetrosystem,andthe MassTransitRailway(MTR)networkcan takeyouaroundHongKongwithitsbelow andabove-groundlines.

Tramsareanovelty—butanormfor locals—andtheirskinny,double-decker railcarsshuttlearoundthestreetsgiving youagreatviewofthecityasyoupass through.Enteratthebackandpaybefore youleave.

VisitorsareadvisedtogetanOctopus Card,whichyoucanpickupatMTR Stations’ticketmachinesandcustomer counter,payingincash;thesecanbe toppedupatplaceslike7-11.

FerriestraverseVictoriaHarbour,with manycommutersusingthemtogetfrom HongKongIslandtotheKowloonside. Andinarealold-meets-newevolution, Ubercanbeusedtoridethosefamousred taxis.

2

CHILLOUT

HongKongersknowtheimportance ofdowntime;localswillperchatan old-schoolyuenyeungshoptoreadthe paperorcatchupwithfriends.

Therearealsomanydedicatedspaces thatofferpeaceandquiet.

YourfirstportofcallisHongKongPark, nexttoCottonTreeDriveinCentral.At 8ha,it’sanoutstandingexampleofmodern designandfacilitiesthatseamlessly blendwiththenaturallandscape.From birdwatchingtotheMuseumofTeaware (itscollectionofantiqueChineseporcelain teawaremadeinYixinginJiangsu Provinceisnottobemissed),there’splenty todowhenyouneedtounwindawayfrom thehustleandbustleofthecity.

KowloonWalledCityParkisalsoworth visitingforitspeacefulnessandunique Qingdynasty-inspireddesigns.Amilitary enclaveinthe19thcenturythenan ungoverned,crime-riddensettlementuntil itsdemolitioninthe1980s,theinfamous KowloonWalledCityisnowatranquil park.

Keyfeaturesincluderemnantsofone ofitsgatesandthefacadeofayamen, abuildingthatdatesbacktotheQing dynasty,whichoncefunctionedas administrativeoffices.There’salsoafree guidedtouronthehistoryoftheWalled Cityandthearchitectureofthepark.

3

SPIRITUALGUIDANCE

There’sanassortmentofbeautiful templesandshrinesinHongKong;

oneofourfavouriteswasarguablyoneof thebest-known—theManMoTempleon HollywoodRd.

Takeyourhatsandsunglassesoffwhen insideandpayyourrespectsasyoutake inthecoilsofincensethathangagainsta backdropofredandgold.

TheChiLinNunneryisalsoworthavisit. RegardedasHongKong’smostimportant Buddhistsanctum,thenunneryreflects traditionalTangdynasty(618-907)design aesthetics.Nexttoitisabeautifulgarden knownastheNanLianGarden,whichalso featuresseveralpermanentexhibitions andavegetarianrestaurantbeneatha manmadewaterfall.

4

FLOWERPOWER

WhileMongKokisafeastforthe senseswithaveritableassortment ofmarketssellingeverythingfrom streetsnackstosneakers,don’tmissthe opportunitytobesweptupbyitsfamous flowermarket.It’swhereHongKongers descendwhentheyneedfreshflowersfora bargainprice.

EspeciallybusyduringLunarNewYear festivities,you’llfindeverythingfromcut flowersandpottedplantstoseedsand bulbs.What’sevenmoreheavenlyfor visitorsistheabundanceoftropicalplants, fromfrangipanistoorchids.

TheStoryBehindTheMiskoPrint™

FashiondesignerandfounderofJOSEPHINEtheLabel,LucyMaxwell,sharesthestory behindherinspirationaldesign,TheMiskoPrint™.JOSEPHINEisacontemporary women’swearbrandknownforsophisticatedanduniquelyinspireddesigns.

TheMiskoPrint™isJosephine’sdebutcustom print.Thisdesignrepresentsmorethanjusta pattern—it’sameaningfulcollaborationwith whenuaandanhonouringofmywhanau.Deeply groundedinwhakapapa,itstaystruetoJosephine’s aesthetic:sophisticatedwithatouchofquirk. Theprintdrawsinspirationfrommygreat-greatgrandparents.Mygreat-great-grandfather,Misko (alsoknownasMichael),migratedtoAotearoa fromCroatiaat13,travellingalone.Hebecame partofthethrivinggumindustryintheFarNorth, wherehemetmygreat-great-grandmother,Lucy, ofNgāpuhidescent.TheysettledonLucy’sfamily landinHokianga,wheretheystartedtheirfamily. Aftermonthsofresearchingideasanddeveloping thedesign,Idecidedtouseachildhoodart techniquecalled“rubbing.”Iexploredthe

land,searchingfortheperfectpattern,and itwasessentialthatthisprocessbeatrue collaborationwithwhenua.Imadesuretouse onlynon-livingtreesandnaturalmaterials, ensuringnoharmtotheland.

Throughextensivedevelopment,Ichoseagum treefromHokiangaasthefoundationforthefinal print.Ibelievethisprintbeautifullyhonoursboth myCroatianandMāoriheritage. IamincrediblyproudofthiscustomJosephine print.Itrepresentsnotonlyadeepconnection tomyheritagebutalsoadesignthatisprotected andsettobecomeasignatureconceptforthe brand.Itembodiesthevaluesofcollaboration, sustainability,andauthenticitythatdefine Josephine’suniqueaesthetic. www.josephinethelabel.com

ZiyingwearsJamesBushcoat,JulietteHogandress,Yim TomearringsandNicolerebstockheelsandPradabag.

LOCAL LENS

BorninScotlandand drawntothecreative pulseofHongKong, filmmakerand producerSophia ShektellsTomRose abouthowthey makeitworkina placewhereallthe sensesareactivated

SophiaShekhaslivedinHong Kongon-and-offnowfordecades, grabbingaone-wayticketafter graduatingfromtheiranimation classataScotlandartschool. Pulledtothecityaftergettingataste ofitsbodyoffilmandtelevisionworkat home,the“producerbyheart”and“fixer

Myfavouritemovietheatrein HongKong... IlovetheBroadway Cinematheque.I’vehostedandpresented alotoffilmsthereandalsowatcheda lotofgreatarthousefilms.It’smygo tothecinemaontheKowloonsideand ithasagreatbookshopandfilmshop sellingmoviememorabiliaandDVDsto Blu-rays.It’sprobablytheonlyarthouse cinemaleftinHongKong.

WhenI’mworking... Isometimes listento90sCantoPop.Itisnostalgicand IlearntalotofCantonesefromwatching HongKongTVdramas/filmsfromthat period.

wheretheyprovideproductionservices foranyonewhowantstoshootfilmin thecity.Asaqueerartist,Sophiafinds comfortinhaving“thecapacitytogive back”totheircommunity,seekingto helpminoritiesintheirindustrymake theirfilmsbyworkingonstoriesthey identifywithandbelievein.Withqueer, POC,orfemale-ledprojectsandworkers Sophia’ssupportexpressesitselfthrough

MyfavouritedistrictofHong Kongis... TaiPointheNewTerritories. It’salwaysbeenmyhomewhenIam inHongKong.It’sgotthishomey neighbourhoodvibe. Myfavouritebar, caféorrestaurantinHongKongis ... PingPong129.It’sabarwithmany memories.For10yearsI’vebeengoing there,withgreatdrinks,foodandJuan alwayslooksaftermeandmyguests. WheneverIneedacreativespace tochill... You’llfindmegoingtoSoho House,HongKong.It’smyhomeaway fromhome.

Whenitcomestoexercisein HongKong ...Givemeatenniscourt andsomeonetoplaytenniswith.Itcan beanywhere.Currently,attheSouth ChinaAthleticAssociation(SCAA)Tennis CenterIhavearegularsessionwiththese retirees.Theyareintheirlate60supto 80sandtheycanhitanyoneoffthecourt.

ReadMore: Gettoknowourinteresting localcreativewithourextended interviewonlineatViva.co.nz

Wheretoshopin Hongkong?Among ubiquitousluxury retailersandbig chainstores,Hong Kongalsooffers ampleopportunityto shopforsomething uniquelypersonal writesDanAhwa

InHongKong,anythinggoes—at leastwhenitcomestohowlocals expressthemselves.

Thereistheavant-garde streetwearparadinginCausewayBay’s throbbingshoppingprecinctFashion Walk,nottomentionthewell-heeled executiveshostingclientsinsomeofthe region’sglossyMichelin-starredeateries, slidingtheirmanicuredfingersacross whitetablecloths.

Thentherearethetanktopsand layersofgoldchainsadorningseveralof itsbelovedstreet-foodvendorsandthe linen-cladexpatssippingespressosatone ofseveralhole-in-the-wallcafesalong HollywoodRd.

PersonalstylereachesallfacetsofHong Kong’seclecticsociety.

Butcuttingthroughthenoiseisthe quietelegancecommandedbythe rigorouscutofatraditionalcheongsam orqipao(thetermscanbeused interchangeably,theprimarydifference betweenqipaoandcheongsamisintheir languageoforigin,pronunciationand history.)

Thedistinctiveform-fitting,kneelengthdresswithamandarincollar andslitskirt,hasbeenwornchieflyby ChinesewomenasfarbackastheQing dynastyofthe17thcentury.

Whileit’seasytooverlyromanticise MaggieCheung’siconicwardrobeof qipaoinWongKar-wai’smesmerising 2000film IntheMoodforLove,does anyoneinHongKongstillwearthem? Accordingtoourlocalguide,acheongsam canbewornbyanyoneaslongasit’sdone appropriatelytotheoccasionanddress code,butmoreimportantly,withrespect –notasacostume.

FASHION NIRVANA

Fordiscerningshoppers,thisguideisa subjectiveoneaimedtohelpfilterdown theendlessoptionsintoatidylistthatcan helpyouexperiencethebestthatHong Kongfashionhastooffer.Whilethere’s alwaystimeforamarketbargaininMong Kok,thefollowingassortmentisfocused squarelyonquality,notquantity.

ForleadingHongKongfashionhouse ShanghaiTang—abrandthatmade acameoin IntheMoodforLove —it’s allaboutreinventioninits30thyear. “I’veworkedovertheyearstorefine whatthecheongsammeansnotonlyfor localsbutforvisitorsfromoverseaswho appreciateandrespecttheeleganceof thecheongsam,”explainsthebrand’s onlysurvivingmastertailor,Bernice, whoputsourmodelZiyithroughher pacesinacustomfittingthatinvolves fabricselectionandensuringthe dressfitsherlikeaglove—thefitof acheongsamiscrucial.IntrueHong Kongstyle,oneofthesecustomdresses cantakeonlyacoupleofweeksfrom conceptiontoitsfinaldestination—your closet.

Foundedin1994bylocalbusinessman DavidTang,ShanghaiTang‘smissionto modernisethecheongsamlivesonnot onlythroughitscollectionsforallgenders butalsoitsundeniableinfluenceonanew generationoffashiondesignerslooking toredefinethegarment—likeJulie Liu,whosebrand,Qipology,offersan affordablealternative,includingready-toweariterationsyoucanbuyofftherack. WhileShanghaiTang’sPacificPlace

residenceat88Queenswayinthe Admiraltyareaalsooffersready-to-wear options,Bernice’struepassionisforthe garmentcreatedinitspurestform.In betweenfittingZiyi,shestopstoshowme aphotoonherphoneoftheHongKong celebritiesandroyaltywhoshecounts asloyalcustomers,includingarecent orderfromLibyanroyal,PrincessAlia Al-Senussi.

Havingworkedasatailorforthe past40years—13atShanghaiTang —Berniceisstillpassionateabout upholdingtheeleganceandvaluesof thedistinctivedesign,ahallmarkofthe brand.

Notonlyconfinedtomodern-day cheongsam,thebrandalsotrades inaccessoriesformenandwomen, homewaresandfragrances.Whilethere isnoshortageofluxurybrandsinHong Kong—manyofthemcounttheirHong Kongboutiquesassomeofthebestin theworld—ShanghaiTang’slocalised luxuryisanexperiencevisitorsshould considerfirst-hand,withrecentopenings ofstoresacrossSingapore,Shanghai, andBeijingconfirmingitsrenaissance foranewgeneration.

“We’recelebrating30yearsin businessthisyearandit’satimeto reflectonwhatabrandlikethismeansto peoplenotonlyhereinHongKong,but internationallytoo,”explainsBernice, whoexplainsthatultimatelyit’sallabout makingpeoplefeellikethebestversions ofthemselves.

“Ifeelhappywhenpeoplefeelsatisfied withmywork.”

VisitShanghaiTangatPacific Placeresidenceat88Queensway. ShanghaiTang.com

Above,ShanghaiTang'smastertailor,BernicesizesupmodelZiyingatthebrand'sPacificPlacestore.
Photo/BabicheMartens
THEHONGKONGICON: ShanghaiTang

Fashion

CONTINUEDFROMPAGE7

THENEWGUARD: Qipology

Afreshtakeontradition,thislocal favouriteoffersoneraisond’etre—“weall comeindifferentshapesandsizes,andso shouldyourqipao”.

Thislocalbrandhasamassedastrong followingofmostlyyoungerfanssinceit launchedin2017,re-examiningtheqipao innewandfreshways.

AfterstudyingintheUKandgaining amaster’sdegreeinfashionbuyingat theprestigiousIstitutoMarangoniin LombardyinNorthernItaly,founderJulie LiureturnedtoHongKongworkingfor luxuryspecialistsPedderGroup,Dolce& GabbanaandDFS,LVMH.Subsequently, shebranchedouttofocusonherpassion fortheqipao,withanaimtogetpeople wearingthestyleoncemore.

Whatsparkedthispassionwasan invitationtoaweddingwherethetheme was“ShanghaiTang”.“Ineededtofinda cheongsamatagoodpricepoint,butmy choiceswereeitherthecheaponesyoufind instreetmarketsortheexpensiveoneslike thoseatShanghaiTang.Intheend,Igot onemade.”

Hermostrecentcollectionincludescutouttopsthatutilisetheqipao’ssignature collar,silkblousesandevenacableknit qipaojacketformenandkids.Thebrand alsocreatesmoderntakesontheqipaofor brides.

VisitQipologyatH314,BlockB, PMQ,35AberdeenSt,Central,Hong Kong.

Upcycledstreetwearandaslice ofAmericanamakesthisvintage destinationamust-visitinHongKong. AsoneofHongKong’sbelovedvintage haunts,forthreedecades,Midwest Vintagehasofferedcustomersone-of-akindvintagesourcedpredominantly—as thenamesuggests—fromtheMidwest (mostlyTexas).Butwhatmakesthis vintagetreasuretroveparticularlyspecial isitsin-housesub-brandsofupcycled garments—FirstEdition,MidwestSupply andMiniMidwest.

Holidayshirtsareslashedandpieced togetherinajoyfulmedleyofcolourand print;preppyPoloRalphLaurengarments arealsocutupandsewnbacktogether tocreateuniqueandreimaginedpieces. Alsosellingcomplementaryaccessories includinganimpressivecollectionof vintageleatherjacketsandKangolhats. Whileitspopularityhasnaturallyseenit openseveraloutletsacrossHongKong overtheyears,itsmust-visitlocationisthe two-levelstorelocatedintheWanChai district.

LocaljewellerssuchasWhitedo HandcraftsbyYingalsooffersomething unique.Thebrandspecialisesinorganiclookingsilvernecklaces,braceletsand rings.

VisitMidwestVintageatShop20, G/F,VictoriaCentre,15WatsonRd, NorthPoint,HongKong.

thatindicatethelevelofclientelewho frequentitsheadquarters;returning customerswhoswearbythebusinessand therespectedserviceithasdeliveredsince 1958.

Fromdirectorsatprestigiousauction houseslikeSotheby’stoCEOsofsome oftheworld’sleadingbanks,secondgenerationownerSandyChengcontinues inthetraditionhisfatherWilliamCheng began,providingqualitytailoringto discerningcustomersfromallwalksoflife.

Above,Sandy Chengfrom WillamCheng& Sonisaseondgenerationtailor cateringtoalarge andloyalclientele.

Photo/Babiche Martens

OnawallatWilliamCheng&SonTailors isanimpressiveline-upofbusinesscards

Downstairsfromthemen’sstoreisa dedicatedatelierforwomen’stailoring, wherewe’regreetedbyNicoleandMaggie, whotalkusthroughtheprocessofacustom suitfortheofficeorabrocadeqipaofora specialoccasion.Fromtheinitialconsult tothefinalfitting,abespokeordercan takeanywherefromtwoweekstoamonth. Workingwitharangeofluxuriousfabrics, somekeytextilesincludeachoiceselection ofThaisilks,cashmerewoolandgabardine, clientscanselecttheirchoicefromalibrary

offabricswatches.Headupstairs,andit’s anequallyorganisedspaceformaleclients whocanconversewiththeirpersonaltailor andselectfromthousandsoffabricchoices —whetherit’sashirtorasuitthey’re lookingtoinvestin.

“We’vedressedeveryonefromjudgesto politicians,andourcustomerscomefrom allovertheworld,”explainsSandy.“We haveseveralkeycustomerscomingfrom Europe,Singapore,AustraliaandNew Zealand,whoappreciatethewaywework

andourpreciseattentiontodetail.”

Shippingglobally,SandyisoneofHong Kong’smostconnectedbusinesspeople providingcustomerswithalargevarietyof fabrics(4000intotal)tochoosefromits convenientlylocatedTsimShaTsuihead office.

Duringourmeeting,Byron,aCEOfrom Sydneycameinforhisfittingforanew suit,explaininghewasonlyintownfora fewdays,andatriptoseeSandyandhis teamwasessential.

Left,Auniquecutoutqipaotopfrom Qipologywornby HongKongmodel andinfluencer AngieNg. Photo/ @qipology
Below,inside MidwestVintage, aneclecticarrayof authenticvintage fashionfrommiddle America. Photo/ BabicheMartens

“I’vebeencominghereforallmysuits overtheyearsandtheseguysreallyknow whatthey’redoing—IalwaysfeellikeI’m takengoodcareofhere.”

VisitWilliamCheng&Sonat8/F, HanHingMansion,38HankowRd, TsimShaTsui,Kowloon, HongKong.

THEAVANT-HUB: FashionWalk

Internationalbrandsstandsideby sidewithsomeofHongKong’sbest fashionretailersinameltingpotof creativityandself-expression. Therearedozensofperfectplacesfor people-watchinginHongKong,butfor people-watchingwithalayerofstyle, youcan’tmissthehiveofactivityand peacockingthatgoesoninCausewayBay’s shoppingprecinctofFashionWalk.The uniquefusionofindoorandoutdoorspace includesarangeofvibrantareasacross Paterson,Kingston,andFoodStreets, whereyoucanstopforarefreshingbubble teainbetweenaspotofretailtherapy.

Ifyou’reafteraneasygiftthat acknowledgesoneofHongKong’sbeloved fashionbrands,Kapokisagoodstarting point.Whatstartedasasmallshop foundedbyaFrenchownerinTinHauis nowamini-empirewithstoresinCentral, TsimShaTsuiandevenSingapore;but itsgenerousboutiqueonKingstonStisa FashionWalklandmarknottobemissed. Elsewhere,aterrificselectionofhardto-findpiecesisstockedattheVivienne WestwoodboutiquePattersonStflagship inFashionWalk,alongwithadiverse selectionofsomeofthebeststreetwearat JuiceStoreonClevelandSt.Foundedby actor,singer,rapper,fashiondesignerand entrepreneurEdisonChen,whatmakes JuiceauniqueretailportofcallinHong Kongishowitbridgesthegapbetween EastandtheWest,andhowstreetwearin HongKonghasauniquepointofview. Whatalsomakesituniqueisitsrange ofcommunity-drivenevents,pop-upsand activations,andlocalisedcollaborations

Above,thoughtfulcurationof classicmenswearatTheArmoury PedderArcade. Photo/DanAhwa

Aboveright,K11Museais dubbedtheworld’smost innovativeculturalretail environmentatVictoria Dockside,withafocuson combiningcultureand shoppingintooneunique retailexperience.Right, TheLandmark

HongKonglocalWillWongin amongthehustleandbustleof FashionWalkinCausewayBay. Photo/BabicheMartens

withbehemothssuchasAdidasand Conversejustsomeexamplesofitsreach andinfluenceonthelocalstreetwearscene.

ForlocalFashionWalkregularWill Wong,whoworksinaspiritualcentrein CausewayBay,beingpartofthearea’s diverseexpressionofstyleisonegreatway tobespiritedwhileoutshoppingforfashion inHongKong.“Icareaboutthefreedom toexpressmyself,”hesaysafterwespot hislavender-huedhairinthestreet.“Here yougettodresshowyouwant,andthearea supportstheideathatfashionissomething thatcanonlybedefinedbyyou.”Likeall greatthingsaboutHongKong,allofthe localretailersclosearound11pm. VisitFashionWalkatGreatGeorge St,CausewayBay,HongKong.

THEMENSWEARPARADISE: PedderArcade

Awayfromthecrowdsandlocatedat thetopoftheiconicPedderBuilding, you’llappreciatethishushedenclave oftimelessstyleformen. Itfeaturesasmallcurationofboutique shops,anartgallery,andabarandcafe positionedintheheartofthefifthfloor ofthisBeaux-Artslandmarkandmyfirst portofcallhereisatthemulti-brand storeTheArmoury,wherearesoldan extensiverangeofcustomandbespoke offeringsfromitsin-housebrand, exclusivecollaborationsandevenashoe line.WithaboutiqueinNewYork,The Armouryistheperfectpitstopforthe discerningman.

Openedayearago,theEuropeaninspiredshoppingarcadeisalsohome toanicheanomaly—TheLokmanRare BooksShop,sellingantiquarianandfirsteditionbooks,includingafirstedition of Charlotte’sWeb andafirsteditionof culinaryrarity TheEpicurean,byCharles Ranhofer,afascinatinglookatelite restaurantcookingfromtheAmerican CivilWartotheturnofthelastcentury. VisitPedderArcadeat5/F,Pedder Building,12PedderSt,Central, HongKong.

THEFUTUREOFRETAIL: K11Musea

Artworkplaysacentralpointof differenceinthisglossyneighbourhood ofhigh-endfashion.

Hottip: wearcomfortableshoes.This sprawlingretaillandmarkspansamixof250 retailersand70destinationrestaurants.

Justdon’tcallitamall.

Infact,withmorethan40artistinstallations dottedacrossthisseven-storey,31,600sq mdestination,it’smorethanamallbuta shiningexemplarofhowartandcommerce canco-exist.

K11Museaisbuiltonahistoricsite formerlyknownasHolt’sWharf,afreightand logisticshubthattransformedHongKong intooneofthebusiestportsintheworld.

Sinceopeningin2019,K11Museahasnot onlybecomesynonymousasadestination forsomeofluxury’sbeststores(Cartier,Van Cleef&Arpels,Gucci,AlexanderMcQueenall havesomeoftheirbestretailspaceshere),but it’salsoaplacewhereaworld-classrotation ofartevents,collaborations,experiencesand workshopstakeplaceeveryyear.

It’stheidealshoppingdestinationfor peoplewhoaren’texclusivelythereto shop—there’splentytodowhilestrolling aroundwhetherit’swhiskeytasting,taking inanimpressivearrayofcontemporaryart orsimplytakingintheviewsofHongKong harbourlocatedrightonitsdoorstep.

Thebrainchildofbillionaireproperty developerAdrianCheng,whotoldForbes uponitsopeningthat“thegoalofK11Musea istobecometheSiliconValleyofCulturein HongKong.

“Wefirstintroducedcontemporaryartinto ourmallstoaddtotheculturalexperiencefor ourcommunity.

“Throughthepowerofcreative architecture,design,artandenrichmentof theconsumerofflineandonlineexperience, wearecreatingauniquecultural-retail experiencethatisattheveryforefrontof consumerentertainmentandengagement.” VisitK11MuseaatVictoriaDockside, 18SalisburyRd,TsimShaTsui, HongKong.

THELUXURYENCLAVE: TheLandmark

Aglossyneighbourhood connectedbybridgesmakesthis luxurydestinationaplayground forpeoplewithseriousmoneyto burn.

FromChaneltoBottegaVenetato BurberryandLouisVuitton’sAsia flagship,thistrustedcollectionof luxurystoresalsoincludessomeofthe bestline-upofrestaurants.AstonesthrowawayfromtheiconicMandarin Oriental,whatmakesthisdestination specialishowit’slinkedbypedestrian bridgesthatconnect208stores andrestaurants.It’salsohometo anactivelyengagedmarket—the Landmarkishometomanyleading lawfirmsandbarristers’chambers.

Specificstoressomemightbe interestedinincludeWristcheck,a watchboutiquethatwelcomeswatch enthusiastsfromallovertheworld. Housingarangeofcertifiedpreownedluxurywatches,Wristcheck alsooffersadrop-offserviceforany pre-ownedwatchesthatclientswish tosell,supportedwithcomplimentary professionalin-housephotography andevaluationfromtrainedwatch specialists.

CharbonneletWalkerisanother keyhighlightyoushouldvisitifonly tosamplesomeofitsexquisitehandmadechocolates,packagedupinits luxurioushandmadeboxesandsatin ribbons(animpressivesouvenirfor lovedones).

Ifyoureyesneedabreakfromthe opulence,don’tfret:themall’sprime locationinAdmiraltyallowsvisitors tocombineadayofshoppingwith sightseeing,withnearbyattractions suchastheHongKongPark,the StarstreetPrecinct,andtheiconic VictoriaHarbourconvenientlynearby. VisitTheLandmarkat15 Queen’sRdCentral,Central, HongKong.

HONG KONG: A FEAST FOR ALL SENSES

From glamorous rooftop bars to buzzing street markets, international festivals to serene local temples – Hong Kong is a city of fascinating contrasts to explore.

If you think you know Hong Kong, think again A direct flight from New Zealand will bring you right into the heart of this dynamic city that sparkles and glistens with its own unique energy on an island at the heart of more than 250 islands on the edge of the Pacific Ocean A city that thrums as an economic hub for companies from around the world that use it as a base where you’ll rub shoulders with executives entertaining clients at the finest restaurants and glamorous travellers who network at rooftop cocktail bars and discreet clubs where the interiors ooze opulence It s a city where you can jump on and off a ding-ding tram and find yourself in the heart of a bustling back street where people jostle at street stalls, slurping noodles and eating Cantonese favourites washed down with milky Hong Kong-style tea It s a city where towering skyscrapers dominate but much of the land is protected untouched nature It s a city where ships from around the globe create gentle wakes as they glide past traditional Chinese junks and fishing boats It is a city of contrasts yet nowhere is further than a 20-minute drive – and it s probably easier to walk It s a city that’s exciting and deserves far more than a couple of hours sitting in the airport in transit Hong Kong is for those who appreciate modern urban life at its best – diversity, energy, colour, flavours, passion and an environment to experiment experience and enjoy

A city for food lovers

Hong Kong s dining scene oozes glamour It boasts 78 Michelin-starred restaurants and 67 Bib Gourmand award highlights with top-tier restaurants that combine world-class cuisine in some truly remarkable settings Each dining experience from Cantonese classics to local street food elevated to fine dining, demonstrates the city s culinary prowess

On the 25th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, you will discover Man Wah a one-Michelin-star luxury Cantonese restaurant with breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour The menu merges traditional Cantonese flavours with modern flair and features the likes of Peking duck steamed crab and dim sum The elegant interior and impeccable service add to the sense of sophistication

It’s best to book well in advance to secure a table at chef Vicky Cheng s outstanding WING restaurant

which has earned a place at number 20 in The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants 2024 Vicky describes WING s offerings as blending boundaryless Chinese cuisine dried seafood culture and Hong Kong heritage” He has been recognised as Tatler Dining HK’s Chef of the Year this year recognised for his dazzling dishes that blend tradition with innovative flair, and his commitment to sustainability and community

Another must-visit is Forum in Causeway Bay This three-star Michelin destination is famed for its abalone The restaurant offers an upscale setting and serves meticulously crafted Cantonese dishes

For a more casual yet iconic taste of Hong Kong Kams Roast Goose is a Michelin-starred institution specialising in Cantonese roast meats Kams serves its signature succulent roast goose with perfectly crisp skin along with other classic dishes like roast pork and char siu rice The modest but lively ambience makes this a great place

You can t say you ’ ve truly experienced Hong Kong until youve followed the tantalising smells emanating from the dai pai dongs (open-air food stalls) or pulled up a stool in one of the bustling cha chaan tengs (Hong Kong-style cafes) and tucked in to everyday favourites such as hearty wonton noodles char siu rice (barbecued pork rice) and warm pineapple buns

Start at Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodles a Michelinrecommended eatery famed for its handmade noodles pressed with a bamboo pole a rare traditional method that results in uniquely chewy, springy noodles which are then paired with simple savoury toppings When it comes to fluffy, warm pineapple buns, Wing Wah Cafe Restaurant is famed for them Crumbly with a sweet crust, eat with a slab of butter For Hong Kong s street food favourite egg waffles head to Mammy Pancake while Tai Cheong Bakery is synonymous with the city s iconic egg tarts This buttery crumbly pastry filled with smooth egg custard is a must-try for anyone exploring Hong Kong s sweet treats

Hong Kong s open-air markets are a must and a wonderful way to be involved in the communal vibe of this vibrant city Woosung Street Temporary

Cooked Food Hawker Bazaar is the perfect place to wander around and be tempted by all the local food stalls serving up cha chaan teng fare stir-fries and fresh seafood dishes While the bustling Temple Street Night Market comes alive after dark with stalls selling everything from curry fish balls and stinky tofu, right through to clothing and kitsch souvenirs to take home

Head to hip Sham Shui Po, one of Kowloons oldest and densest districts, for must-try food experiences

Known for its silky tofu pudding refreshing soy milk and tofu ice cream Kung Wo Beancurd Factory is a destination for soy-based delicacies that are healthy and delicious

Hop Yik Tai is known for its cheung fun (rice noodle rolls) – a staple of Hong Kong street food culture The restaurant s Michelin-recommended rice rolls are smooth and delicious served with sauces like sweet soy and sesame

Sun Hang Yuen is a go-to spot for hearty corned beef and egg sandwiches, paired with a steaming cup of Hong Kong milk tea Perfect for breakfast or a quick snack this is comfort eating Hong Kong-style

For a classic yum cha experience Luk Yu Tea House is one of Hong Kong s oldest tea houses Here dim sum dishes are served with tea in a traditional setting making it an ideal place to savour dumplings buns and more in a nostalgic atmosphere that celebrates Cantonese heritage And for another iconic dish head to Yat Lok for its award-winning roast goose – crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, you’ll be tucking in alongside locals and visitors

A city for art and heritage lovers

At the heart of the worlds most-loved cities you will find a vibrant art scene and Hong Kong delivers; indeed, it surpasses expectation Strong investment in arts and culture makes it easy to seek out stimulating and dynamic ways to experience and connect with the people The historical building Tai Kwun a former prison and police station has been reinvented into a cultural centre with everything from a constantly changing programme of festivals and theatre along

WING Restaurant s Drunken Sea Snails
Hong s Kong s Victoria Harbour

with galleries shops and eateries including the elegant Botanical Garden restaurant and the green glowing light-filled Dragonfly cocktail lounge The options here are endless

PMQ formerly the Police Married Quarters, was transformed 10 years ago into a multi-storied hub for more than 100 designers and artists Situated in the shady suburb of Central it makes for a cool respite and perfect place to discover creatives at work in their studios explore the small galleries or stores where you ll find everything from eyewear to toys fashion and ceramics Don t miss T/ea for a chic modern take on traditional tea drinking

M+ is another must-visit not only for its groundbreaking contemporary art collection but also its stunning architecture It is Asias first museum dedicated to visual culture and showcases a diverse range of works, from modern art to design and moving images with a focus on the regions unique cultural landscape Designed by Herzog & de Meuron the building is breathtaking

True art fans should plan their visit to the city at the end of March next year in time for Art Basel Hong Kong

– the premier fair that attracts international collectors artists and enthusiasts What truly sets this Art Basel apart from others around the world is its focus on the diversity of modern and contemporary Asia-Pacific art The fair s dynamic programming, including talks tours

and artist collaborations, creates an immersive, crosscultural art experience

A city for culture lovers

From the high energy of the Rugby Sevens and Dragon Boat Racing to the serenity of exploring temples this incredible city has it all with easy access from your hotel Hong Kong s cultural events offer vibrant glimpses into the city s rich heritage and communal spirit Hong Kong s Dragon Boat Festival takes place on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month each year (in late May or June) The racing is fast and furious as teams in colourful boats celebrate the ancient tradition and bring the waterfront to life

A more whimsical spectacle is the three-day Cheung Chau Bun Festival with its parades and Bun Scrambling Competition This unique event, held in May combines religious rituals with fun competitions While the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Festival held in autumn sees the streets transformed with flames and music and a massive dragon made of incense sticks is paraded through the neighbourhood

If you want to escape the bustling energy the city s temples and monasteries provide the perfect serene respite and the chance to explore the spiritual heritage

Take the metro and then a bus to Po Lin Monastery, located on Lantau Island Situated in the tranquil

gardens you will find the iconic Big Buddha – the 34-metre-tall bronze statue symbolising peace and enlightenment If you ’ re keen, climb the 268 steps for breathtaking views Back in the heart of the city, Man Mo Temple in Central captures the essence of Hong Kong s historical roots Dedicated to the gods of literature and war this charming temple is adorned with intricate wood carvings and hanging incense coils that add to the mystical atmosphere

The beauty of Hong Kong is that one minute you are being wowed by its modern sophistication the next you’ll come across people practising tai chi in a park

Traditions like this abound and are still a vital part of urban living bringing a sense of calmness to daily life

Spending time in a local apothecary or luxury spa is a wonderful chance to discover herbal medicines and the age-old remedies, holistic practices and traditional healing methods that continue to be used And while you might choose to drink cocktails on the rooftops you can also enjoy the sensory pleasure of a traditional tea ceremony with the finest of Chinese teas and discover the intricate rituals and health benefits of this beloved drink That s Hong Kong – a city of wonderful contrasts worth exploring

Feeling intrigued? Visit Discoverhongkong com/anz to help plan your trip

Getting there

Cathay Pacific flies direct to Hong Kong from Auckland daily and Christchurch seasonally four times a week from December 2 2024 to March 30

2025 Offering premium service delicious dishes and worldclass inflight entertainment your journey to Hong Kong and beyond will be elevated on a Cathay Pacific flight

For more information visit Cathaypacific com

The three-day Cheung Chau Bun Festival features parades and a Bun Scrambling Competition
Hong Kong has a vibrant street-art scene
Man Mo Temple in Central captures the essence of Hong Kong’s historical roots
Bing Kee Cha Dong eatery in Tai Hang

A CITY FOR THE SPORTS FAN

Dan Carter s affinity for Hong Kong runs deeper than one might expect from a seasoned rugby player known for his skill and speed on the field Over the years, the former All Black has grown fond of the city, not just for its role in hosting the world-famous Hong Kong Sevens but thanks to family living there and numerous visits for work and pleasure

From the moment you step into Hong Kong theres this unmistakable buzz he explains enthusiastically Dans involvement with the Hong Kong Sevens has always been from the sidelines but hes no passive observer

Working with the Hong Kong Tourism Board, he visits the Sevens to promote the city enjoying its dynamic energy and sharing his experiences with the fans To be honest I mostly go as a fan

Dan admits and it s one of the most electric atmospheres in rugby

The Hong Kong Sevens is one of the most iconic stops in the international rugby calendar renowned for its intensity and party-like atmosphere

The event is moving to the new state of the art Kai Tak Sports Park in 2025 for the first time, bringing fans from all over the world to cheer on teams in what Dan describes as a festival of rugby

He recalls his first visit to the Sevens as nothing short of awe-inspiring

It s a non-stop energy fest from the stands to the field he says Fans arrive dressed in costumes as early as seven in the morning amplifying the lively atmosphere People go all out in their outfits ” Dan laughs “it’s unlike any other rugby experience ” Dan enjoys the pace of rugby sevens for its sharpness and speed which makes for a fun day for fans Unlike the traditional 15-player game, rugby sevens is fast-paced with each half lasting only seven minutes Games move quickly with minimal stoppages and players often back up multiple matches in one day Sevens is a breeding ground for young talent he explains Some of the best All Blacks like Jonah Lomu and Christian Cullen started in sevens it’s a stepping stone ” Excitingly, 2025 will see both New Zealands men ’ s and womens teams arriving as defending champions for a second consecutive year

Beyond the stadium and the sport

Dan loves Hong Kong s vibrant city life – from the incredible shopping to the food scene and exploring beyond the high-rises Theres another side to Hong Kong that most people don t realise he says A short drive from the busy city centre and you ’ re surrounded by beaches hiking trails and mountains ”

One of his favourite activities is a sunrise hike up The Peak Hong Kong s famous mountaintop with breathtaking views of the city and coastline “The incline is no joke ” he laughs recalling his attempt to run to the top, “but it’s worth it when you see that sunrise over the skyline ” For a more relaxing trip to The Peak, visitors can also catch the Peak Tram The Peak Tram Lower Terminus is easily reachable on foot from the MTR

Food is another passion that ties Dan to Hong Kong The culinary scene here is unmatched he says with a smile Hes ventured beyond traditional Chinese dishes exploring fusion eateries like Ho Lee Fook known for its creative twist on Cantonese cuisine served in an eclectic, retro-inspired space Another of Dans favourites is the beloved Little Bao famous for its steamed pork buns

They re the best I ve had in Hong Kong he claims admitting he often finds himself craving them Cafe Match Box known for its local breakfast soups offers another experience he treasures

It s a spot popular with both locals and tourists and the retro décor adds to the whole vibe ” he says Hong Kong’s famed shopping scene is also something Dan has enjoyed since his early days as a rugby player

From luxury boutiques to bustling street markets, he finds Hong Kong s diversity in shopping options both exciting and nostalgic I bought my first Christian Dior shirt here back in 2006 he remembers It felt like a huge deal at the time a real investment Hes quick to point out that Hong Kong’s shopping offers something for everyone from luxury brands to unique finds that make for memorable souvenirs

For getting around Central on Hong Kong Island, Dan recommends the iconic ding-ding trams, which are a nostalgic way to explore its bustling streets I finally hopped on one earlier this year he says They are a great way to sightsee while resting your legs

Hong Kong is also known for its nightlife and Dan has had his fair share of evenings out with friends who live and work there “Theres a great food scene and rooftop bars are a big thing,” he says While he admits his days of staying out all night are mostly behind him, he appreciates the vibrant nightlife that gives Hong Kong a unique dynamic edge The combination of flavours styles and sounds that the city offers from world-class restaurants to streetlevel food stalls and eclectic late-night spots continues to impress him

As Dan counts down to the upcoming Hong Kong Sevens in 2025 set to take place in the city’s new Kai Tak Sports Park, he’s excited to see if the new venue can match the legendary energy of the current stadium

Hong Kong has a way of exceeding expectations he reflects Every time I leave I m already thinking about when I can come back For Dan Hong Kong isn t just another stop on the rugby circuit it s a second home filled with unforgettable memories sights and friendships

To find out more about the Hong Kong Sevens, visit Hksevens com

Dan Carter at the Hong Kong Sevens

Food & Drink

T Kong

When planning a trip to Hong Kong one of the first questions is where and what to eat With its proximity in the heart of Asia, history as a trading hub, and the cosmopolitan nature of the city, Hong Kong’s food and drink

offering is a treasure trove of cuisines and delicacies

not very common these days Waiter Yip Chung Tim (pictured above serving Ziyi tea) loves the beef balls “They’re the best ”

Its staff are on-site by 6 30am, at 7am doors open to patrons starting their day with hot tea and a bite to eat It’s normal to come in alone, particularly in the morning Luk Yu is popular with families too; many young Hong Kongers come with their parents

Longstanding neighbourhood eateries continue “old Hong Kong” traditions like dim sum and dai pai dong, sitting shoulder to shoulder with fine-dining establishments

Navigating such a dizzying array of eateries benefits from local knowledge: the nuances of dining conventions, advice on what to order and where does it best

Here’s what we recommend

For a cinematic culinary experience:

Luk Yu Tea House

A local institution that’s been in business for 92 years, it doesn’t get more classic than this Walking through the doors transports you back in time, and the same diners and staff have been under this roof for years

Two decades is the average tenure for their employees, says manager Mr Ng, who has been there 20 years himself “It’s culture It’s tradition, eating dim sum, ” he tells us His favourite is pig liver shu mei,

For this institution beloved by locals and a destination for tourists, you’ll want to book a couple of days ahead About 150 customers pass through in the morning and up to 300 in the afternoon, all for dim sum, while the dinner service of Cantonese-style dishes draws around 70-60 people

Lawyer Jeffry Wong is there three to four times a week He works at a firm 10 minutes’ walk away and has been coming to Luk Yu for 60 years “I love the feelings, I love the food,” he tells me “It’s like coming home to eat ”

Visit Luk Yu Tea House at G/F-3/F, 24 Stanley St, Central

For traditional toss noodles:

Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle

Recognised by Michelin’s Bib Gourmand for its quality and price, this small, simple spot has been dishing up “toss noodles” for 13 years Their signature dish combines

ting your way through ma Gleason

there’s art on the walls too seascapes by photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto when we visit that changes every six months

Ornate tequila bottles are on display too Agave spirits are a pillar of the drinks menu, as is Champagne, and sake of course

Visit Udatsu Sushi at House 1881, FWD, The Stable, 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui Udatsu-sushi com hk

For a great G&T: Ping Pong 129

Step through a taxi-red door on a steep side street of Sai Ying Pun and you’ll find a surprisingly cavernous gin bar

Patronage is broad older couples, hip young things, white-collar workers “We have a really eclectic clientele,” co-owner Juan Martínez Gregorio tells us as he sits at our table in the corner after rustling up a round of gorgeous drinks

Ping Pong 129 throws art and music nights as well as private events they’ve even hosted weddings for couples who met at the bar When we walk in they’re in the midst of a fundraiser for Valencia’s devastating floods Juan is from Spain he moved to Hong Kong in 2008 which shows in the menu, tapas, and provenance of many of its gins

His favourite is the herbaceous Xoriguer Mahon from the Balearic Islands It’s “ a real craft gin” and one of the few in the world with a protected geographic origin

Visit Ping Pong 129 at 129 Second St L/G Nam Cheong House, Sai Ying Pun Pingpong129 com

egg noodles, made by hand on a bamboo pole in the traditional style, with dry shrimp roe (which they also sell by the jar) in an array of charmingly named iterations including the Boss Lady’s Choice (and mine) which comes with prawn balls, shrimp dumpling and crab roe wontons Al dente noodles, fishy roe and an array of condiments make this a flavourful pit stop for a quick, cheap lunch

Visit Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodles at 1E Wing Lung St, Cheung Sha Wan

For artful Japanese:

Udatsu Sushi

Located in a historic Tsim Sha Tsui precinct that dates back to the late 1800s, with its hushed elegance and modernity Udatsu Sushi channels zen from the moment you walk into the intimate space

Opened in August 2024, chef Hisashi Udatsu’s new restaurant joins his Michelinstarred original Udatsu Sushi Tokyo

The inventive omakase menu is revised on the first of every month, reflecting seasonal change with its produce and fish, so while we had Spanish mackerel in early November, there may be a different offering by the time you ’ re reading this story.

The seasonal herb maki rests on a darling Murano glass dish by Ercole Moretti, and

For artful fusion: Andō

Tucked away in an unassuming building, an elevator takes you up to chef Agustin Balbi’s visionary restaurant, where he melds Argentinian food with that of Japan somewhere he worked for a long time.

You’ll eat everything from an expansive sashimi medley spanning the five elemental flavours and ingredients like amaebi (sweet shrimp) and Japanese sea bream, to the sumptuously rich “Sin Lola”

That’s the restaurant’s signature dish, inspired by the traditional Spanish arroz caldoso (brothy rice) that Agustin’s grandmother would make

Nearly everyone who comes to Andō orders it and we ’ re no exception During our springtime visit it’s a marriage of three stocks chicken, crab and lobster each cooked for a full day before being combined with Spanish prawn and Hong Kong rice

The beef is Argentinian Angus (it’s beautiful) and is served with mushrooms from Yunnan A sparkling cacao-husk drink is brewed locally from coffee beans

This goes very well with dessert, an innovative creation by patisserie chef Stella that magics together cognac jelly, smoked chocolate mousse, buttermilk icing and Chantilly cream in a textural extravaganza. Visit Andō at 1F Somptueux Central 52, Wellington St, Central. Andohk.com

Yip Chung Tim serves tea for model Ziying at the beloved Luk Yu Tea House Ziying wears Kate Sylvester skirt set and Gucci pearl
choker Photo / Babiche Martens

For spice with a side of fabulosity:

Grand Majestic Sichuan

Inspired by Hong Kong’s swanky supper clubs of the 1960s, with its glossy fit-out and suggestion of possibility, Grand Majestic Sichuan is pure glamor

It opened in 2022 and the kitchen is helmed by head chef Theign Phan, who joined last year Food skews traditional and the à la carte menu is changed quarterly, aligning with the Sichuan seasons

It’s autumn when we visit, and the restaurant’s famous Shui Zhu Yu (Fish Sea of Chillies) is top of our list, an ocean of rich red soup loaded with Sichuan pepper

Tempering the heat is a delicate and very lovely potato and lotus root dish We also devour the zesty tangerine peel beef, dan dan noodles assembled tableside, and an incredible iteration of sweet and sour pork

Signature dishes include flaming mao tai chicken; a tea-smoked duck that comes with steamed buns; and wok-fried whole crab with Sichuan chillies and peppercorns

The drinks list is extensive and aligned with the Chinese Zodiac A sprawling wine selection spans old-world (Loire Valley and Burgundy) and new, with Aotearoa strongly represented thanks to bottles from Greystone, Black Barn, Zephyr, Gillman Vineyard, Mt Difficulty and Pegasus Bay

Visit Grand Majestic Sichuan at Alexandra House, Shop 301, 3rd Floor, 18 Chater Rd, Central, Hong Kong. Grandmajesticsichuan.com

For a good flat white or long black:

Winston’s Coffee

Popular with locals, with its corner spot and

locally roasted beans, this relaxed cafe is a good place to refuel, and the intersection site was a relaxed entrée to the dynamics of the city Winston’s Coffee is located in an old neighbourhood, Dai Hain; it’s full of walk-up apartments, longstanding businesses and young creatives, many of whom frequent the business Once you ’ re fully caffeinated, don’t leave without grabbing a bag of their house-blend coffee or some cool merch to take home

Visit Winston’s Coffee at Shop 4, G/F Rich Court, 213 Queen’s Rd W, Sai Ying Pun Winstonscoffee com

For a century of dim sum knowledge:

Luk On Kui

Another Hong Kong institution, the Luk On Kui brand has been around for more than 100 years, and it’s been in the current Des Voeux Rd West location for over 20

Steaming carts are shuttled between busy tables manager Mr Chow says they serve over 1000 people a day

Lift a basket lid and you might find pillowy bae clouds or morsels of shu mei If you spot sha yung (sugar-coated egg puffs that taste like choux-pastry doughnuts) get some; we ordered three rounds

There’s some amazing goose, rich meat and crispy skin tempered by plum sauce, and the succulent crispy pork Wash it all down with a pot of dark, strong pu ’ er tea

Communal tables are common here, and we shared ours with Mrs Chang and her husband, who visit every couple of weeks

She loves the pig liver and the taro cake, but the pork buns are her favourite “That’s how you can tell if a place is good or not.”

40-50 Des Voeux Rd W, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

For an inventive cocktail:

The Aubrey

This ritzy bar and restaurant can be found on the 25th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, slinging conceptual drinks and specialty spirits that have earned it the number 10 spot on this year ’ s Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards

Billed as “ an eccentric Japanese izakaya experience”, when we visit they’re offering a special menu dedicated to Kagoshima, a prefecture in the south of Japan famous for its Shochu, a distinctive distilled spirit traditionally made from the likes of rice or sweet potato

The Aubrey is so committed to the liquor that beverage manager Devender Sehgal has been made an official ambassador for Kagoshima Shochu, recently honoured with a visit by the prefecture’s governor

Devender loves Japanese spirits and it shows in what’s on offer, with the Signature Cocktail Menu the most popular is the negroniinspired Nobleman and Seasonal Cocktails

If a classic cocktail is more your thing, The Aubrey’s staff can also whip up off-menu drinks

Enjoy them all in the bar’s many booths, nooks and intimate spaces; there’s also the omakasefocused Ukiyo Dining room for private parties

Make sure to try the bar snacks while you ’ re there head chef Arlan Rivera’s sandos are quite something

With an ornate interior (and many nooks), it’s a sumptuous spot to while away the evening Things get very lively on Friday nights when the bar hosts The Aubrey After Dark from 10pm until the wee hours, and for those really looking to celebrate there are Festive, Christmas and New Year menus on offer until January 5 Level 25, Mandarin Oriental, Connaught Rd, Central

Model Ziying enjoys a long lunch in Grand Majestic Sichuan wearing Zambesi dress and Nicole Rebstock heels.
Photo / Babiche Martens. Fashion director / Dan Ahwa Hair and make-up / Krystina Te Kanawa
A fresh, spicy Imo Shochu-based drink with gin, ginger and citrus from The Aubrey’s latest Kaizen cocktail menu.

Food&Drink

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Fordecadent,Michelinstarreddimsum: ManWah

Witharguablyoneoftheprettiestinteriors inthecity,it’shardtoknowwheretolookat MandarinOriental’sglamorousCantonese restaurant:dashingblue-lacqueredwalls inlaidwithgildedbrass,thehandwoven carpets,orthebottleofPerrier-Jouëtthat’s waitingforus?Attentionisdivertedagain witheachcourseofourMichelin-starred meal,fromthevisualfeastontheplate–the award-winningsteamedeggdishisasurreal tableauof“goldfish”inapond–tothe flavourinside.

ManWahhashelditsMichelinstarfor11 years.It’sajewelinthehotel’soffering,and popularwithguestsandHongKonglocals alike—itcanseat92inthemainroomand 32intheprivatediningarea.

“Attheweekendwe’remorefamily.Nighttimeisquitedifferent,”explainsassistant managerandsommelierMarco.

Whetherfamilyget-togethersorbusiness travellersenjoyingaworkinglunch,most ordertherestaurant’ssignaturedishes.

ThebarbecuedIberianporkloinisone. It’sadishHongKongersusetogaugethe qualityofarestaurant.ManWah’sisglazed inorganichoneyfromLongyanand,so tenderitfallsapartinyourchopsticks;you’d besmarttoordertwo.

Andofcourse,there’sthePekingduck, whichatManWahneedn’tbeorderedin advance.Unlessyou’reanightowlthatis. Dinerscomingafter8.30pmshouldorder theduckandporkwellaheadoftimeto ensurenoregrets—becauseyoureally shouldn’tleavethehotel,orHongKong, withouttryingthem.

VisitManWahatlevel25 oftheMandarinOriental hotel.ConnaughtRd,Central. Mandarinoriental.com

AtManWah you’llfindthat steamedand sautéedegg withamedleyof artfuldumplings (lobstermeat andseaurchin) goesverynicely withaglassof Perrier-Jouët, orjasmineteaif that'smoreyour thing.

gills(youshouldbookatleastfourdays aheadtosecureatable).Manydinersare thereforitsspecialty,applewoodroasted Pekingduck.

Workingourwaythroughthetasting menu,there’squaileggsiumaitostart andsomebarbecuedIbericoporkthat’sso gooditcouldbethemainevent.

Thosespanoceanandland.There’s crispyabalone,avisuallyarrestingbut surprisinglysubtlegroupersteamedwith ginger,andSouthAustralianlobsterwokfriedwithmushroom,leekandgarlicfora symphonyoftexturethatbegsforseconds.

TheKobebeef(A5+grade)issotender thatourpartyrunsoutofsuperlatives, and,ofcourse,thatfamousPekingduck.

bathroomantechamber.

Patronsspilloutonthesidewalk,while othersqueueuptogetin.They’rethere forthedrinks,includingthedelectable oliveoilsourandthreeiterationsof negroni,andthefood,whichissuitably aperitivo-adjacentandpartofBar Leone’ssuccess.Themortadellafocaccia andsmokedolivesarebestsellers,owner andbartenderLorenzoAntinoriexplains. Thewholeplaceissteepedinpop culture;cinematicwithitsVenetian blindsandmovieposters,blastingan irresistiblesoundtrack—thinkDavid BowieandAbba—andthejoyis contagious.

TakingaquickbreakfromhisflamingwoktoshowoffOiManSang'sfamousclamsinblackbean, TangKwokKeungtellsusthathecouldn'thavedonethisjob—anartformreally—forsomany yearsifhedidn'ttrulyloveit. Photo/BabicheMartens

Forstreeteating: OiManSang

Open-airdaipaidongeateriesare distinctivetoHongKong.OiManSang isoneofthefamousandservesupstreet theatreatitsfinest.Theshowstartsas wesaunterdownthesidewalktoour destination—woksablazeandadeft choreographyofstaffmanoeuvringdish afterdishacrossthesidewalktotheir manypatrons(it’sbusyeventhough it’sonly5.30pm,earlybyHongKong standards).

Manningthatflamingstationischef TangKwokKeung,who’sbeenworking therefordecades.“Iobviouslylovethis job,”heexplains.“IfIdidn’tIwon’t

haveworkedhereforover20years.”

Heandtheothercooksdishuppopular specialtieslikestir-friedbeeffilletand potatoinblackpeppersauceandclamsin blackbeansauce.

Goasearlyasyoucan—bythetimewe leaveat7pmaqueueofhungrydinershas formeddowntheblock.

VisitOiManSangatShamShuiPo Building,1A-1CShekKipMeiSt, ShamShuiPo.

Forafeast: Mott32

FridaynightatglamorousMott32sees theundergroundeaterypackedtothe

Oursisbroughttothetabletobe admired,beforebeingexpertlycarvedby barbecuechefMatt.“Youhavetobevery precise,”heexplains,cuttingthrough thecrispyskintothetendermeatbelow. “Anddoitwithyourheart,that’svery important.”

VisitMott32inthebasementofthe StandardCharteredBankBuilding, 4-4aDesVoeuxRd,Central,Hong Kong.Mott32.com

Forfunvibesandanawardwinningdrink: BarLeone

YoucouldsayBarLeonebringsasense ofLaDolceVitatoHongKongbutit’s farcoolerthanthatoldcliché.Thisisan establishmentthathasdrapeditssecondplaceawardinthisyear’sTheWorld’s 50BestBarsoveranarcadegameinits

Youcantakeasliceofithome:T-shirts areavailable,andsoarethose“world’s best”olives,smokedin-houseand orderedbyprettymucheveryonewho visits.

VisitBarLeoneat11-15BridgesSt, Central.Barleonehk.com

Foronelastthing: CafeMatchBox

Youcan’tleavewithouttryingacupof yuenyeung.Itdoesn’tgetmore“oldHong Kong”thanthis,abeveragethatcombines coffeeandteawithevaporatedmilk.A cousinofHongKong-stylemilktea,it’s abrilliantpick-me-upafteralongday exploringthecity,andamorningritualfor manylocals.

VisitCaféMatchBoxat57Paterson St,CausewayBay,HongKong.

• Headto Viva.co.nz toreadthefullstory

Photo/ BabicheMartens

CLUB CULTURE

Forall of Hong Kong’s glitz, glamourandhedonism, sinkdeeperinto its streets andyou’ll find galleries and museums dedicatedto documenting its pastand celebrating its future,writes DanAhwa

1Liang Yi Museum

The past is not a dusty memory here, but an immersive homage to the centuries-old power of human design There’s a concept from Peter Fung, the ardent Chinese antique collector who founded the unassuming Liang Yi Museum in Sheung Wan, that encourages people to touch and hold its impressive collection of antiques because the belief is, the more it’s touched, the brighter it shines

Here inside the hushed halls of Asia’s largest private museum/events space, Chinese antique furniture from the Ming Dynasty holds equal value to a bejewelled Boucheron minaudière from the 1960s

The four-storey museum is home to one of the world’s largest and best-curated collections of Chinese antique furniture, along with a unique collection of bejewelled clutches, compacts and powder boxes from the late 1880s through to the 2000s from some of the world’s most prestigious jewellery brands, including Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels

A table laid out with European silverware also demonstrates the uniqueness of this private collection, where you can pick up an ornate French silver gilt trophy with both hands and marvel at the craftsmanship of a bygone age; while Japanese decorative works of art also feature in the expansive collection including a collection of rare silk tobacco and cosmetics cases

But it’s the story behind the pair of 17thcentury Chinese cabinets decorated with marble slabs featuring illustrated vignettes that charmed me the most

Made from yellow rosewood, the cabinet harks back to the Ming dynasty and was used by the owner ’ s great-grandson as a TV cabinet, with holes drilled into the back for the TV cable to connect to the electrical outlet.

Another impressive piece that commands attention is the rare inclusion of a shrine from the golden age of the Qing dynasty that warrants its own room

As our personal guide explains, the collection has been a passion project for Peter, who has passed on his love of antiques to his daughter Lynn Fung, the former Tatler editor who now serves as the director of the museum Plan your visit:

The beauty of Liang Yi is that it is by appointment only Open between 10am-6pm Monday to Friday, the museum ’ s guided tour is the perfect way to enter a portal back in time, perfectly located in the heart of Hollywood Rd in Sheung Wan, the capital of Hong Kong’s antique community Be sure to take a form of identification or your passport with you for registration at reception

Guided tours cost HK$200 (about $44) and on Wednesdays, they are open free of charge to full-time students with prior arrangement Children under the age of 12 are not permitted 181, 199 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Liangyimuseum com

Above: Model Ziying Zhao from Quest Models photographed on the Aqua Luna boat along Victoria Harbour at sunset. Rory William Docherty shirt and skirt. Yim Tom Jewels jade earrings from The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. Photo / Babiche Martens Left the facade of

Culture

Thiscutting-edgemuseumis focusedsquarelyonthefuture. Lookdownintothecavernous gullyofthehandsomeM+Museum designedbySwissarchitecturalfirm Herzog&DeMeuronandyou’ll mesmerisedbyitssheerscale.

Fromthisvantagepointontheentrance level,youcancraneyourheadupanddown andnottireofthisconcretewonderwithits 33galleryspaces,threecinemas,research centre,teaandcoffeebar,member’s lounge,officespaces,andarooftopgarden thattakesinpanoramicviewsofVictoria Harbour.Ohandforthosewholikea decentgiftshop,therearetwo.

Openedin2021,TheM+artmuseum hasalreadymadeanimpactonthelocal artsscene,locatedinitsprimespotofthe WestKowloonCulturalDistrictofHong Kong.Itexhibits20th-and21st-century creationsencompassingvisualart,design andarchitecture,andmovingimages,with collectionsaimedatrivallingthelikesof NewYork’sMoMA,CentrePompidouin ParisandtheTateModerninLondon.

Whenwevisited,adiverserange ofexhibitionswerealreadyinplace, illustratingthebreadthofitsappeal.An exhibitiondedicatedtocouturierGuoPei— whoseblockbusterexhibitionatAuckland ArtGalleryToioTāmakilastsummerwas ahighlightonthelocalculturalcalendar —isondisplayuntilApril2025,whilea firstfull-scaleretrospectiveofinfluential architectI.M.PeiisonuntilearlyJanuary.

AsurveyofHongKongdirectorTsui Hark’scelebratedworksandanewartistfocusedprogrammeAvant-GardeNowtakes centrestageaspartofitscinemaschedule; andavant-gardeperformanceartoffersa

TheChineseantiquesatLiangYiMuseumoffer auniqueinsightintotheHongKongoftoday. LiangYiMuseum. Photo/BabicheMartens

Above,TaiKwunisaheritagesitewithacourtyardsteepedinhistory.Topleft,M+isaculturalcentre for20thand21st-centuryart,design,architectureandthemovingimage. Photos/HerzogdeMeuron

day-longimmersionintoperformanceart onfilm,demonstratinghowcontemporary artistscreateattheintersectionof performanceandmovingimage.

M+offerstherangeandstylerequired foraworld-classmuseumwithacentral focusoncontemporary,visualculture— butwhat’sbetteristheopportunitytohead directlytotherooftoptorecalibrateyour eyes.It’sdescribedastheM+playscape, featuringtheworkofsculptoranddesigner IsamuNoguchi.Takingintheimpressive exhibitionsandexpressionsofartbelow, theoutdoorspaceoffersachancetosit andreflectonwhatyou’vejustseenwhile overlookingthegloryofVictoriaHarbour —ifyou’vegotfidgetykidsintow,take themhere.

Planyourvisit:

ThemuseumisclosedonMondays.It opensTuesdaytoThursdayandweekends from10-6pm;and10am-10pmonFridays. Itisopenonallpublicholidays.

Youcanexplorefreespacesofthe museum,orpurchaseticketsformore accesstospecialexhibitions.Accessto theMediatheque,theGrandStair(except forticketedevents),andtheRoofGarden remainsfree.Bagsandbackpackssmaller than30cmx42cmx10cmareallowedin thegalleries,butbackpacksmustbeworn onthefrontofthebodywiththestrap(s) slungoveroneorbothshoulders.Larger itemsmustbecheckedintolockersorthe cloakroom,availableforrental. 38MuseumDrive,WestKowloon, HongKong.Mplus.org.hk

TaiKwun

TheformerCentralPolice StationofHongKonghasbeen transformedintoanoasisofart andcontemplation.

Bythetimethisisout,NewZealandmultidisciplinaryartistandVeniceBiennale alumniLisaReihanawillhavewrappedup hermonth-longexhibitionatTaiKwun,the heritageartsvenuelocatedattheformer

CentralPoliceStationofHongKong,atthe easternendofHollywoodRd,inCentral.

DigiRadiance:GOLD—LEAD—WOOD —COAL isLisa’smulti-channelvideo installationexploringquestionsaround foreignlabour,longinganddisplacement, andoneofseveralexhibitionsthatfeelat homeatTaiKwun,ahistoricallandmark inHongKongthatcelebratesaneclectic mixofvisualarts,musicandtheatre performances,filmscreeningsand educationalprogrammes.

Ifyou’retherebetweennowand February2,don’tmiss TaoHui:Inthe LandBeyondLiving.Apoignantstudy oncontemporarysocietyinChinaandthe humanconditionatlargeishowthenotes forthismulti-elementexhibitiondescribes theexhibition,whichspanspainting, sculpture,video,sound,installationandset design.ArtistTaoHuitakesusfromnorth tosouth,theinlandtothecoast,theurban totherural,theindustrialtothenatural. Onework,forexample,isasculpture withonesideshowingavideoofawoman talkingthroughasalespitchofflatscreen TVinaninfomercial,whileontheother side,thescreenisproppedupbyamelting woodenfigure.

Togetabetterscaleandunderstanding ofthesignificanceofTaiKwunatlarge, takeatourthatdelvesintoitsarchitectural heritageandvisittheVictoriaPrison,an integralpartoftheTaiKwuncompound thatofferscontextofspaceandplace, whileprovidinganinsightintothe penalsystemofthepast.Alongwiththe formerprison,TaiKwunishometo16 revitalisedheritagebuildings,including theformerCentralPoliceStationand CentralMagistracy.In2019,itreceived theAwardofExcellenceintheUnesco Asia-PacificAwardsforCulturalHeritage Conservation.

Itsmorerecentaddition,theJC Contemporary(alsoknownasTaiKwun Contemporary),whichopenedin2018 afteramultimillion-dollarrevampofTai

Kwun,coversmorethan1400sqmof contemporaryartexhibitionspace.Andif artsandheritageisn’tapriority,atleast admirethewonderofitsspirallinginterior staircase.Oneofmyfavouriteareaswasthe artistlibraryspacefilledwithavarietyof uniqueandnicheartbooks(checkoutthe hilariousArtMemewallpokingfunatthe sometimespretentiousworldofart). TaiKwunwasrecognisedbyUnesco withtheirAwardofExcellence,aunique accoladethathonoursthemeticulous conservationandintegrityofthehistoric 170-year-oldbuildings. Planyourvisit: TaiKwunisopen8am-11pm.Asitis consideredaheritagesite,bemindful —everywallanddoorisapartofHong Kong’shistory.

10HollywoodRd,Central,Hong Kong.Taikwun.hk

4

AquaLuna

VictoriaHarbour’sfamousredsailedjunkboatsareaniconic culturaltreasurenottobe missed(especiallyatsunset). IfyouneedfreshairawayfromHong Kong’sworld-classgalleriesandmuseums, cuttothechaseandheadstraightfora sunsetboatrideaboardtheAquaLuna, HongKong’sfamouslybelovedCheung PoTsai( )/junkboatwhichcruises aroundVictoriaHarbourwithstopsat TsimShaTsui,Central,WanChaiand HungHomduringthedayandCentral andTsimShaTsuiintheevening.Order aglassofwineorsundownermocktail afterafulldayofexploringthestreets, sprawlacrossitsloungersandenjoythe breathtakingpanoramicviewsduringthis 45-minuteharbourcruise.Thisisthemost basicoffer,withothercruiseoptionsthat catertothoselookingtoaddalittlemore totheexperienceincludinganafternoon teacruiseandadimsumcruiseforfoodie explorers,combiningexquisitedimsum whileexploringHongKong’ssecretfishing village—LeiYueMun.Ifyoutimeit right,wealsorecommendthespectacular SymphonyofLightscruise,wherea light,laserandmusicshowenhancesthe magicofHongKonginthedarkasthe harbourandthecity’sskyscrapersput onamemorabledisplayofcolourand technology. Therearetwopick-uppoints—thefirst atTsimShaTsuiPier1;andthesecondat CentralPier9.Fortimingsandbookings visit Aqualuna.com.hk

TherearepanoramicviewsofVictoriaHarbour fromaboardtheAquaLuna–anultimateHong Kongexperience. Photo/BabicheMartens

FIVE-STAR FABULOUS

Plungingheadfirstintothe sophisticationofoneofHong Kong’sfamousestablishments, EmmaGleasonseeswherethe city’schic,connectedguestsstay whenthey’reintown

Thenamealoneconjuresup visionsofglamorousjet-setters, bespokesuitsandluxury luggage.MandarinOriental’s five-starHongKongflagshiphasbeenin businesssince1963—itwascalledThe Mandarinthen—andinthedecadessince hascateredtoawho’s-whoofmoversand shakers.A-listersStanleyTucci,Michele YeoandBryanFerryareamongitsfans. PrincessDianastayedin1995,reportedly inasuiteonthe24thfloor.

Whenvisiting,you’llwitnessasteady streamofchauffeuredcarsandHong Kong’sfamousredtaxispullupoutside, theirpassengerswhiskedthroughthe doorsbystaffindashingscarletuniforms.

Thescentoffreesias—thehotel’s signature—hitsyouassoonasyouenter thedecadentlobby.It’saheadyaroma thatsetsthetoneforyourstayinoneof thehotel’s387roomsor60suites.

We’rebookedintotheClubHarbour ViewRooms,whichofferbespokeservices suitedtobusinesstravellers,including accesstoTheMandarinClub—thehotel’s exclusiveexecutivespace.Guestrooms arehandsomeandwelcomingwithglossy woodandwarmlighting.Theking-size bedismadeupwithpurelinensheetsand there’sevenapillowmenu.

Withthewindowofferingsweeping viewsoftheharbourandforeshore, thedeskiswell-placedtoadmirethe citywhilehavingacoffee.StillonNew Zealandtime,I’mupby4amor5am mostdaysduringourstay,sowatchthe citywakeupandConnaughtRdstart hummingwithtraffic.

Acleverandveryconvenientroom detailisthevaletwindow,locatedina cupboardbesidethedoor.Designedfor efficientlyhavingthingsattendedto,it’s alsoavehicleforsurpriseanddelight. Onemorningamonogrammedluggage tagappearsinmycubby.

Thoughtfuldetailslikethispunctuate ourentirestay;returningtomyroomone dayIfindthedog-earedpageofmybook hasbeenreplacedwithabookmark.

Afterabusydayinthecitythere’speace tobefoundinyourroom.Perchbythe windowandtakeintheglitteringskyline andharbour(thereareevenbinoculars). Relaxinthemarbletubandenjoythe Diptiqueproductrange,thenfallintobed foragoodnight’ssleep.

Breakfastisonthe23rdflooratThe MandarinClub,whichoffersanalacarte menualongsideacomprehensivebuffet servingeverythingfromdimsumto sourdoughbread.Thesmokedsalmonis excellentandsoisthecongee,whilethe chef-helmedomelettestationisapopular waytostartthemorning.Enjoyingthe calmatmosphereandtheattentiveservice fromstaff,wereadtheinternationaland localnewspapersandplanourdayahead. Theyalsoserveafternoonteaand eveningcocktails,andformorebusinessorientatedmattersthere’saboardoom, quietcorners,streaming-qualityWi-Fi, anddedicatedconciergedesk. TheClubisanelegantandspacious

Enjoyingamoment atManWah,Ziying wearsSu'Mar jacket,shorts andbag.HerYim Tomjadeearrings andpendantcan befoundatthe MandarinSpa. Photo/Babiche Martens

Below,aharbour viewroomat MandarinOriental Hong-Kongoffers agorgeousvistaof thethecityskyline andthewatersof VictoriaHarbour.

allpartoftheMandarinSpa,whichspans threefloorsofthehotel.Award-winning servicesincludelymphaticdrainage,hot stonemassage,non-surgicalfaceliftsand traditionalChinesemedicinetreatments andreflexology.Getthereearlytoenjoy theherbalsteamroom.

levelofetiquette;notornjeans,singlets orjandalshere.Dresstoimpressis anunspokenstylemandate,withthe hotellocatedinthegleamingfinancial district,corporatesandhigh-net-worth individualsabound.

Laundryanddrycleaningservices ensureyou’lllookputtogetherandif you’relookingtoaddtoyourluggage allowance,TheLandmark—anextension oftheMandarinOriental—isattached tothemainhotel,housingluxurybrands likeChanelandDriesVanNoten.

Allwouldlookverygoodatoneof MandarinOriental’sninegorgeous restaurants;thesumptuousMichelin-

Cantonesefood,exceptionallyprettydim sumandstrikingbluewalls. Otheroptionsonthefoodfrontarethe classicMandarinGrillAndBar,which alsoholdsaMichelinstar,CaféCausette, ClipperLoungeandCaptain’sBar.The Chinnaryisintimateandhandsome, popularwithacohortoflocals,and renownedforitssinglemaltwhisky collection.SmallerstillistheKrugRoom, a“hiddenrestaurant”withthelargest rangeofKrugChampagneoutsideFrance. Balancingallthewining,diningand work,thegymisopen24hoursaday.It’s equippedwithalltheamenitiesyouneed foradecentworkout.Needahaircut?You

There’stheMandarinSalonifyour coiffureneedsseeingto,andthespaalso sellspiecesfromYimTomJewels.They makebeautifulmementosofHongKong, andthereareplentymorethingstotake homeinthegiftshoponthegroundfloor. Pickupagorgeouscoffeetablebook andMandarinOriental’ssignaturescent incandleandroomsprayform.The fragranceoffreesiascanfollowyouhome. VisittheMandarinOrientalHong Kongat5ConnaughtRd,Central. Mandarinoriental.com/en/hongkong

• TheVivateamwereguestsof theMandarinOrientalHotel,and travelledtoHongKongcourtesyof HongKongTourismBoard.Cathay PacificfliesdailyfromAucklandto HongKong.

FUSION FEAST

BringatasteofHongKonghomewithAngelaCasley’srecipes

FRIEDPORKANDPRAWNDUMPLINGS

Makes24

Dumplingwrappersareeasytofindata rangeofsupermarkets,andthesebites aresosimpleandfuntomake.Gathera crowdforaneveningandchatasyoufold. Adjustthefillingstosuitwhat’sinseason.

300grawprawnmeat,choppedsmall 200gporkmince

1Tbspgratedginger

1springonion,finelychopped 1tspsesameoil

1tspfishsauce

¼ tspsalt 24dumplingwrappers

Dippingsauce

1Tbspsoysauce

¼ cupblackvinegar(orricevinegar)

2tsphoney ½ tspsesameoil

1Tbspchoppedchilli

Optionalgarnishes Slicedspringonion Toastedsesameseeds

1. Combinetheprawnmeat,mince, ginger,springonion,sesameoil,fish sauce,andsaltinabowl.

2. Mixthesoysauce,vinegar,honey, sesameoil,andchilliinasmalljugforthe dippingsauce.

3. Tomakethedumplings,takeone wrapperanddampenaroundtheedge withwater.Placeatablespoonofmixture inthemiddle,foldoverandpinch togetheratthetop.Makethreelittletucks ofthepastrytowardsthecentreoneach side,crimpingittogether.Setasideuntil

readytocook.

4. Heatatablespoonofflavourlessoil inafryingpan.Addhalfthedumplings andcookfor3or4minutestobrown thebases.Pourinalittlewaterand covertightly,allowingthedumplingsto steamfor8minutes.Thewaterwillhave disappeared.

5. Cooktheremaininginthesameway.

6. Servehotwiththedippingsauceanda littlegarnish. Gatheraroundthisbeefandvegetablehot potmadeforsharing

BEEFANDVEGETABLEHOTPOT

Serves4

Thisisafundishtoenjoywithacrowd. Ifyouhaveagasburner,trycookingthe mealinthepotatthetable.Youcanswap outthemeatorvegetableoptionstoyour taste.Tospiceitup,addateaspoonor twoofSichuanpepper.

1litrebeefstock

1tbspgochujangpaste

200gmushrooms,quartered 1onion,sliced 4stalksbroccolini

200gnoodles

4cupsshreddedcabbage 1cupbeansprouts

300gbeeffillet,slicedthinly

Sauce

¼ cupsoysauce

½ teaspoonoffreshlygroundpepper

¼ cupsweetchillisauce

1cloveofgarlic,grated

1. Inalargepot,bringthestockand gochujangpastetoasimmer.

2. Addthemushrooms,onion,broccolini, andnoodlesandcookthrough.

3. Justbeforeserving,addthecabbage andsprouts,cooktowilt,andthenadd thebeef.Seasontotastewithsalt.

4. Mixthesoy,pepper,chillisauceand garlic.Addhalftothepotandservethe remainingontheside.

EGGANDVANILLATARTS

Makes12 Ilovethatthesetartsaresosimple.They’re madewithpantrystaplesandcome togetherquickly.Usestore-boughtpastryif youlike—flakypuffpastrywillworkwell.

Pastry cupsflour 1Tbspsugar 150gbutter

Filling cupsugar cupboilingwater 2eggs 1tspvanilla cupcreamorevaporatedmilk Preheattheovento170C. Blendflour,sugarandbutterina

kitchenprocessoruntilthemixture resemblesfinebreadcrumbs.Add theeggandmixtoformthedough. Rollthedoughto5mmthickona lightlyflouredbench.Cutcircles tothebaseandsidesofa12-hole muffintin.Refrigeratefor20 minutes.

3. Bakethepastryblindfor15 minutes,thenremove.

4. Forthefilling,dissolvethesugar inthewaterandcool.Whiskthe water,eggs,vanilla,andevaporated milkorcreaminabowl.Strainthe liquidtoremoveanyeggbits.Then, pourcarefullyintothetartcases.

5. Bakefor15minutesuntiljustset inthemiddle.Removeandcool.

FORMORERECIPES,SEE VIVA.CO.NZ/RECIPES

Photos/BabicheMartens

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