NZ Herald Viva Gloss Edition - September 2019 by NZME.

VOYAGER MEDIA AWARDS BEST NEWSPAPER MAGAZINE 2019

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SEPTEMBER 25 2019

BOLD BRAVE LUXURY

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FROM THE EDITOR For this week’s special one-off glossy issue, we dive deep into the idea of modern luxury. Where once it was deﬁned by exclusivity, in today’s woke world the focus has moved to quality — the very best of. As luxury brands have swung to be more democratic, to attract a wider market, the importance of craftsmanship and personal service has become imperative. Whether it’s fashion, food, design or travel, as we consumers become more mindful of how we spend our money, the importance of quality over quantity stands out more than ever.

AMANDA LINNELL, MANAGING EDITOR

FASHION & BEAUTY

Right Now

Prada handbag $3200. (09) 366 7121.

1950s sunburst convex mirror, $1550, from European Antiques & Furnishings. (09) 360 9858.

Vintage silver locket, $1950, from Graeme Thompson Jewellery. Antiquejewels.co.nz.

9 RAY OF LIGHT Eye-catching jewels that reﬂect the light 10 PRECISION PALETTE How to wear this season’s bold, interesting hues with crisp neutrals 18 BIG DRESS ENERGY Introducing the big dress trend

Polo Ralph Lauren blazer, $559, from Smith & Caughey’s.

20 LOOK AT THE TIME A round-up of great watches; the ultimate investment piece 22 GOLD RUSH Radiance-enhancing skincare and covetable bottles with a touch of gold 24 DEFINING LOCAL LUXURY Five local premium brands discuss success on the world stage

AT HOME 29 MORE IS MORE Victorian-era maximalism is having a welcome comeback 30 FORD THINKING This chic Parnell apartment in an ex-car factory mixes old and new perfectly

GOING PLACES 35 LA DOLCE VITA The dreamiest downtime happens at Mandarin Oriental on Lake Como 36 MOUNTAIN HIGH Megeve is a French ski resort for all seasons 38 PLAY TIME 10 exceptional ways to enjoy Japan in style

FOOD & DRINK 41 LOOKING GLASS Coloured glass is trending and we can’t get enough

The Goldﬁnch starring Ansel Elgort and Nicole Kidman (2019).

The Goldﬁnch by Donna Tartt (2014).

Gucci heels $1460. (09) 368 1138.

Wales Bonner spring/summer 2020.

Coreterno candle, $166, from Isabelharris. co.nz.

Sign Of The Times:

OLD MONEY

“Through the marbled foyer, beyond, in the richly decorated living room (all glazed in chintz and Chinese jars) it felt less like morning than midnight: silk-shaded lamps burning low, big dark paintings of naval battles and drapes drawn against the sun. There — by the baby grand, and a flower arrangement the size of a packing case — stood Mrs Barbour in a floor-sweeping housecoat, pouring coffee into cups on a silver tray.” Film adaptations of books are forever polarising, none more so than the release next week of The Goldfinch, based on the 2014 Pulitzer Prize-winning novel by Donna Tartt. Starring Ansel Elgort as Theodore Decker and Nicole Kidman as the chilly socialite Samantha Barbour, the coming-of-age storyline’s thrilling mix of intrigue and antiques is one for the style books. While we can’t wait to see how costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone interprets the lush Upper East Side refinement of the Barbour household, for now we’ll happily let Tartt’s vivid descriptions permeate our imaginations. The Goldfinch is in cinemas from September 26

42 BERRY GOOD Angela Casley’s delectable desserts celebrate juicy berries 46 SWEETEST THING Jesse Mulligan reviews dessert restaurant Milse

ON THE COVER:

For outﬁt details see page 10. Model / Ayan from N Model Management Fashion director / Dan Ahwa Photographer / Scott Hardy Make-up / Larissa Lima from M.A.C Cosmetics

LIT UP

If anyone knows about the importance of good ambience, it is leading Australian event creative director Tony Assness. From working with fashion designers such as Akira Isogawa and Collette Dinnigan to clients including the Sydney Dance Company, Faberge, Louis Vuitton and Veuve Clicquot, he has a reputation for producing evocative and glamorous parties. Indeed, he worked with production and costume designer Catherine Martin on the elaborate and decadent party scenes in Baz Lurhmann’s ﬁlm The Great Gatsby. So it’s little wonder Assness has created his own range of candles — made of beeswax they come in a range of elegant shapes and emanate a heavenly scent. Order directly via Tony’s Bondi studio, assness@assness.com VIVA.CO.NZ

Right Now Style Squared

From Italian furniture company Elite To Be come these AL coﬀee tables and stools, made from laser-cut sheet metal in pleasingly simplistic cubic forms. Choose from diamond coated, satin-ﬁnish or etched metallic paint to make a statement at your place. POA from Matisse.co.nz

FLUID FORM

From October 1, Australian label Jacinta James will be bringing its signature sustainable luxury to Mount Maunganui-based store Sisters & Co. Joining an impressive line-up of local and international brands, Jacinta James sets itself apart with certiﬁed fabrics and a considered environmental approach. Jacinta, the brand’s founder and designer, has previously worked with Rick Owens, Jonathen Cohen and Kit Willow, and utilises couture techniques to create her ﬂuid, feminine garments. We love the Queen of the Night maxi dress, $1185. Visit Sistersandco.com

Lensed Legacy

This limited edition book compiles 300 portraits by David Bailey, one of the world’s most prolific and influential photographers. At 81, his career spans 60 years and he has captured high-profile figures including Andy Warhol, Jimi Hendrix, Jean Shrimpton, John Lennon, Paul McCartney and even the Queen. His uncanny ability to bring out the individual personality of his subject, no matter who they are, is immortalised in this very special edition — signed by David himself and one of 3000 numbered copies — with a very special price tag to match. David Bailey, $4730, from Taschen. Visit Taschen.com

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OUT OF THE WOODS

Sandalwood from New Caledonia is especially prized in perfumery for its unique velvety depths. It is the star of the elegant Santal Blanc, an addition to Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire. Perfumer Michel Almairac explains: “Sandalwood, with its creamy texture, was an obvious choice in my mind because it subconsciously evokes the idea of a pure and tender white. To accentuate this facet as much as possible, I added a note of ﬁg milk and a powdery musk accord.” The merest touch of violet is the only ﬂoral note in this woody wonder. Find it in a 75ml bottle for $230 at Smith & Caughey’s and Ballantynes (Christchurch), department stores.

DIO R .CO M

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LET THERE BE LIGHT

The Elementi pendant light by Elisa Ossino for Boffi emanates a gorgeous warm light diffused through opal printed glass. Made up of spherical shapes in differing diameters, the orbs can be used individually or in combination to suit any space. The Elementi light can also be configured as a chic table lamp. POA from Boffi, 2 Boston Rd, Grafton. Boffi.co.nz

THE LADY IS A VAMP

Modest dressing has turned over a healthy proﬁt in recent years, but there’s one signature dress that’s captured everyone’s imagination with its high neck, mid-length, and long sleeves. The Vampire’s Wife’s range of simple, well-made dresses that riff on a Victorian silhouette come in an array of rather glamorous fabrics, and has become a popular red-carpet choice for the likes of Florence Welch, Tilda Swinton, Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller. The indie label was created in 2014 by 90s it-girl Susie Cave, and named by her husband, Australian musician Nick Cave, ensuring cult status since its inception. From today, Workshop Ponsonby and Newmarket will exclusively stock a selection of dresses, including this scarlet-hued velvet ruffle dress $2198. Phone (09) 524 6844

Cocktail Hour

Who says luxury can’t come in a can? This Happy Hour Kombucha from Auckland-based Mamas Brew Shop is a ﬁnalist in this year’s Best Design Awards, which celebrates world-class New Zealand design in Australasia’s largest annual showcase of graphics, motion, product and spatial design. We like how this cocktail in a can, designed by Auckland-based design studio One Design, reimagines premium ingredients (Mama’s Brew Shop Kombucha, Victor Gin and a dash of Peychards Aperitivo) into a ready-to-drink product that’s somewhere between a negroni and a spritz. For this graphic packaging, One Design was challenged with striking the elusive balance between sophisticated and salubrious, and we think they’ve achieved just that. Winners are announced on October 4. Visit Bestawards.co.nz to see the full list of 2019 ﬁnalists

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BEAUTY NEWS: OPENINGS & BRANDS TO KNOW ABOUT THIS MONTH

SHELL OUT: WHERE TO FIND LUXURIOUS CRAYFISH DISHES

ANIKA MOAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BRILLIANT BEAUTY ROUTINE

Photo / Nicky Claridge

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+ the best fashion, food, beauty, travel, design, culture and more

LIGHTER, BRIGHTER PRESTIGE PERFUMES FOR THE NEW SEASON

MANAGING EDITOR AMANDA LINNELL DEPUTY EDITOR JOHANNA THORNTON CREATIVE DIRECTOR DAN AHWA BEAUTY EDITOR JANETTA MACKAY DINING OUT EDITOR JESSE MULLIGAN RECIPE EDITOR ANGELA CASLEY DIGITAL EDITOR SARU KRISHNASAMY COMMERCIAL EDITOR ASHLEIGH COMETTI PHOTOGRAPHER BABICHE MARTENS DESIGNER LUCY CASLEY ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR ROSIE HERDMAN WRITER SARAH DOWNS FASHION ASSISTANT ANNABEL DICKSON FEATURES PRODUCTION EDITOR ISOBEL MARRINER SUB-EDITORS COURTNEY WHITAKER, JILL STANFORD, MAUREEN MARRINER, SUE BAXALLE EDITORIAL INQUIRIES PH (09) 373 6400, VIVA@NZHERALD.CO.NZ ADVERTISING INQUIRIES MICHELLE FOWLER, PH 027 801 3206, MICHELLE.FOWLER@NZME.CO.NZ

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Minotti

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Fashion & Beauty RAY OF

LIGHT

Fly close to the sun with jewels that catch and reflect the light this summer. Poet Robert Frost penned the words “nothing gold can stay”, but we beg to differ —just look at these lustrous keepsakes. For modern minimalists, recent releases from Tiffany & Co’s Tiffany T capsule collection combine graphic angles and clean lines with luminous materials — its mother-of-pearl and diamond pieces are particularly eye-catching. For an even more unique take, we love the elegant knotted earrings from Walker & Hall’s vintage collection, or a diamante necklace from vintage jewellery curator Love & Object. Timelessness and rarity are true signals of luxury, and the combination of vintage and new radiates a special sparkle all of its own. — Rosie Herdman Clockwise from top left: Tiffany & Co. 18k rose gold diamond and mother-of-pearl wire bracelet $2600; Ornamental nautilus shell, $120 per pair, from Babelogue; Partridge Jewellers 18k rose gold and diamond alternating shapes bracelet $19,340; Tiffany & Co. 18k gold two-diamond and mother-of-pearl circle necklace $2350; Vintage 18k yellow gold 2.5ct diamond earrings, $8770, from Walker & Hall; Vintage rhinestone necklace, $689, from Love and Object; 18k white & yellow gold 1.04ct yellow diamond ring, $16,410, from Walker and Hall. Photo / Babiche Martens. Stylist / Rosie Herdman STOCKISTS: Babelogue.shop; Loveandobject.com; Partridgejewellers.com; Tiffany.com; Walkerandhall.co.nz.

Kosmo — $260 Ormani — $240 Starla — $240 INSTORE NOW

90s MOOD The trend that shows no sign of sub bsiding, this season 90s nostalgia embraces backstage glamour and off-duty elegance.

mipiacii .co.nz | @mi_piacii available in-store and online

Fashion

Photographer / Scott Hardy Fashion Director / Dan Ahwa

Take a contemporary approach to wearing this season’s array of bold, interesting hues and match them with crisp neutrals. It’s a refreshingly elegant way to add an energetic jolt to dressing that’s perfect for right now.

PALETTE

A Still Life

The dichotomy between masculine and feminine is a style trope New Zealanders have always enjoyed exploring. Combine the glamour of a fulllength dress with an oversized blazer. This unexpected pairing brings fresh currency to a summer outﬁt. Kate Sylvester dress $899. Gregory blazer $499. Sam Label earrings $200. Karen Walker 9ct gold pendant $1359.

PRECISION

Lighten Up

The combination of crisp summer white works well with myriad saturated brights, evoking a sunny disposition and an upbeat summer mood. Karen Walker polo $295. Gregory top $289. Juliette Hogan trousers $469. Isabel Marant Etoile blazer, $989, from Workshop. Little Liffner handbag, $690, from Scarpa. H&M Studio earring $30 (per pair). 27 Mollys ring $250.

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Modern Mix

Play with shades from the same palette for a thoroughly modern approach to wearing colour. (Below) Jane Daniels linen blazer $795. Mina shirt $325. Helen Cherry trousers $429. From knit vest, $209, from Widdess. Pearl necklace, $2920, from Walker & Hall. Karen Walker 9ct gold ring $1099. (Left) As per previous page.

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Down To Earth

If wearing a bold hue is out of your comfort zone, try adding an earthy layer for a look thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearable around the clock. Gregory dress $569. Ingrid Starnes jacket $599. Sam Label earrings $230.

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Open Season

Clean-cut denim offers the perfect pairing with a bold block bright, a fresh way to adhere to tidy-but-casual dress codes. Shjark shirt $359. Liz Mitchell blazer $1495. Maggie Marilyn skirt $595. Avril Gau slides, $229, from Scarpa. H&M earrings $15.

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Sweet Disorder

Summer workwear requires a certain ﬁnesse. Stay fresh with crisp separates as temperatures climb, and add a structured skirt in a vivid hue for some positive energy as you count down to being out of office. Victoria, Victoria Beckham shirt, $527, from Adorno. Ricochet skirt $219. Moda Di Fausto ﬂats, $218, from Smith & Caughey’s. Deadly Ponies bag $599.

Model / Ayan Makoii from N Model Management Makeup / Larissa Lima for M.A.C Cosmetics Photographer’s Assistant / Bridget McCarthy STOCKISTS 27mollys.com; Adorno.net.nz; Deadlyponies.com; Gregory.net.nz; Helen Cherry from Workshop.co.nz; H&M 0800 406 700; Ingrid Starnes.com; Janedaniels.co.nz; Juliettehogan.com; Karenwalker.com; Katesylvester.com; Lizmitchell.co.nz; Mina from Minaforher.com; Maggiemarilyn.com; Ricochet.co.nz; Scarpa.co.nz; Samlabel.com; Scottiesboutique.co.nz; Smithandcaugheys.co.nz; Widdess.co.nz; Workshop.co.nz.

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ENERGY

Valentino, her hair dyed to match, at the Golden Globes, or in a powder-pink feathered gown, again by Valentino, at last year’s Venice International Film Festival. Or think of Jennifer Lopez swathed in pink on the Second Act red carpet, Maya Rudolph in a big print number for the Wine Country premiere, and Lena Dunham in ﬂame colours and feathers at the Once Upon a Time in Hollywood one. The reigning queen of the big dress is Tracee Ellis Ross, who said she felt “joyful AF” in her hot pink taﬀeta plisse Valentino Haute Couture gown. Her stylist, the ardent feminist Karla Welch, is known for her love of the big dress and has put Ross in Marc Jacobs, Simone Rocha and Comme des Garcons. (Welch recently shared a photo of herself on the way to a birthday party for Busy Philipps wearing a huge lilac number by the Row.) A few daringly dressed men have got in on the act, too. Who could forget Ezra Miller in a black Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli sleeping-bag gown at the Fantastic Beasts premiere last winter? Pose’s Billy Porter has made the big dress his own expression of success and queer visibility — in a black tuxedo gown at the Oscars and in a pink and red evening suit with a tulle train at the Tony Awards. The modern big dress recalls distant cousins, such as the sumptuous fabrics of the Renaissance, the pomp of clothes worn in the royal courts of the 18th century, the vast hoop skirts of the Victorians, and the power gowns of socialites in the 1980s. Truman Capote would have loved a big dress on one of his well-bred Swans. But the contemporary twist is that today’s big dress isn’t restrictive. There

“TRUMAN CAPOTE WOULD HAVE LOVED A BIG DRESS ON ONE OF HIS WELL-BRED SWANS.”

Richard Quinn

Emilia Wickstead

n 2016, which feels like such a very long time ago, trouser suits were what powerful women wore to be taken seriously. Now, in 2019, women who want to be noticed are no longer putting on a blazer or a smart sheath, or even a sexy slip of a dress. We have instead turned to the clothes equivalent of shouting: the big dress. There’s a long history of men taking up space, whether that’s in politics or on your commute. To fight the patriarchy in 2019, a big, voluminous number that forces you to reclaim your own space is powerful. It’s large, it’s colourful, it’s comfortable and it’s commanding — threatening, even, when we wear it. This is the fashion version of womanspreading. The big dress comes with its own vibe — call it big dress energy — that makes you seem like you just don’t care. You’re Rihanna (who never met a big dress she didn’t love) in a Molly Goddard gown made entirely of blue tulle. (By the way, she paired it with white trainers.) This is not a look for wallflowers. Your female friends will love it, gay men will nod in approval and straight men will give you a wide berth. I’ll be frank: most men will hate it. But that’s not the point! A big dress is dressing for the female gaze. Plus, they make you look fun, like you’re in on the joke. Perhaps that’s why designers are so enamoured of them this season. Japanese costume designer Tomo Koizumi’s debut collection was a sea of polyester organza — up to 200 metres for one of the pieces — that made the models look a bit like rainbow sea urchins. The showstopper was the actress Gwendoline Christie in pink flared trousers and platform shoes, her limbs entirely obscured by mounds of fabric. She looked a little like a psychedelic vagina, but she also looked completely cool and in control. If a woman walked into a party wearing that, I would make a beeline for her. Scandinavian designer Cecilie Bahnsen’s cloudlike dresses are street-style bait for making their wearers look at once angelic and absurd. Simone Rocha and Marc Jacobs showed frothy and poufy ones, as did Richard Quinn, Roksanda, Photos Mary Katrantzou and Rodarte. Molly / Getty Images Goddard’s signature pink tulle dress, of course, started the trend when it was worn by the Killing Eve antagonist Villanelle — and then featured on every Instagram feed for most of 2018. Who better to exude big dress energy than a psychotic bisexual assassin who loves fashion and Sandra Oh? No one would dare to call the big dress a frock. She isn’t cute but, rather, demands to be seen and so is the perfect uniform for post-Time’s Up Hollywood. Sure, for the 2018 awards season actresses banded together to shroud themselves in black to make their message of equality heard. Then, before the next season came around, they started using their gowns as their megaphones. Think of Gemma Chan in a fuchsia dress that looked like a high-necked parachute at this year’s Oscars, or Lady Gaga in blue

Roksanda

You’ve probably endured manspreading — now, thanks to this season’s big dress trend, it’s time to take up space of your own, says Marisa Meltzer

BIG DRESS Simone Rocha

Fashion

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Erdem

might be parts that are fitted — a bodice, say — but movement and drama are key. And the less typically sexy the big dress, the more effective. It’s about putting on display not one’s assets, but one’s personality. In that sense it’s sexier than any skintight bandage dress or body-revealing gown could be. We live in an era that often seems free of practical reason, with leaders who are not always the people we want to set the tone, sartorially or politically, for our lives. In 2019 we women have to ask ourselves the big questions of how we want to be seen. How do you show power? Maybe not by fitting in, but by claiming it. And in the era of #MeToo, for whom do you dress? Big dress energy is about delighting in being a complicated grown-up woman who defies category. Why do you have to be a good girl and choose between volume or colour or silhouette? The big dress says — no, shouts — that you can have it all. — The Times

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The Edit 1

3 7

6 11

LOOK AT THETIME

A good watch is the ultimate investment piece, and whatever your style there will be one to suit

8 12

Main image: Chopard ladies Happy Sport automatic rose gold on red strap, $11,700, from Partridge Jewellers. Agate bookend, $180 for pair, from Babelogue. 1. Tag Heuer watch, $4350, from Mansor’s Jewellers. 2. Rado watch $2100. 3. Gucci watch $1495. 4. Michele diamond dial watch, $3563, from Nordstrom. 5. Louis Vuitton watch $43,200. 6. Vintage Piaget 1970 bracelet watch, $49,728, from Moda Operandi. 7. Rolex watch, $51,100, from Partridge Jewellers. 8. Fendi watch, $2988, from Farfetch. 9. Michael Kors watch, $489, from Walker & Hall. 10. Tiffany & Co. 18ct rose gold watch $16,000. 11. Antique IWC watch, $2750, from About Time. 12. Montblanc watch $3415. Photo / Babiche Martens. Stylist / Rosie Herdman. Stockists: Abouttime.co.nz; Babelogue.shop; Gucci.com; Louisvuitton.com; Luisaviaroma.com; Mansorsjewellers.co.nz; Modaoperandi.com; Montblanc.com; Net-a-Porter.com; Nordstrom.com; Omegawatches.com; Orsini.co.nz; Partridgejewellers.com; Rado.com; Smithandcaugheys.co.nz; Tiffany.com; Walkerandhall.co.nz.

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Curated by Designmuseum Danmark and Michael & Mariko Whiteway. The exhibition tour is coordinated by Brain Trust Inc., Tokyo.

Verner Panton Heart Cone Chair 1958 (designed), manufactured by Vitra, stainless steel, wool. Photograph © Matsubara Yutaka

The epicentre of New Zealand retail, fashion, hospitality and entertainment

Beauty

GOLD

Hand-crafted U-pin hair clip in bronze, $115, for Sans from Sydneybased jeweller Alexandra Dodd.

Precious metal is back in style Dior J’Adore Shower & Bath Oil, $98, twins with an addictive body lotion.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge hair mist, $126, perfumed alcoholfree hydrator with notes of jasmine and saffron.

Boucheron Tubereuse de Madras 125ml eau de parfum, $310, with an opulent bouquet.

ll that glitters is not gold but the allure of the precious metal is as lasting as the cautionary quote from Shakespeare’s Measure for Measure. Right now gold is having (another) moment. In the world of beauty its warm glow has never been more appealing, in everything from radiance-enhancing skincare and makeup to especially covetable bottles and jars that say gold class. Gold (real or not) bestows an aura of quality and expense ranging from elegant to opulent. Richer and warmer than silver, it’s currently being mined as the accent of choice in accessories, jewellery and design. This at a time when fashion’s revivalist tendencies are reworking the golden age

of Lady Di dressing, power suits and hip-hop inspired street wear. The one thing these diverse fashion tribes had in common was setting oﬀ their style with a bit of statement bling, from dainty lockets to large earrings and weighty chains. As a signiﬁer of status gold has stood the test of time and now its allure is being freshly burnished in a new generation of beauty products. We’ve selected some prestige items that match their golden credentials with a luxurious look (pictured above) and added colour-matched indulgent aromatic extras to the page for greater temptation. For those wanting to delve deeper into the golden triangle, where appearance, performance and

ingredients intersect, a small and usually pricey number of products out there do actually contain real gold. Look to the likes of Swiss luxury brand La Prairie, Chantecaille and 111Skin. Locally Manuka Doctor with a face oil and Linden Leaves with a body oil have been sprinkling gold dust with eye-catching effect. The latest to join the gold rush is Antipodes Skincare which has just brought out an eye cream containing 23-carat flakes. Ancient and still repeated claims that gold has special healing properties probably aren’t worth paying a premium for, but it does offer illuminating benefits. Be it on your face or your dressing table, a touch of gold adds welcome razzle-dazzle. — Janetta Mackay

Gabrielle Chanel 100ml Essence, $298, creates a luminous warm ﬂoral trail.

Diptyque Do San perfumed brooch, $216, Renaissance inspired and smelling of orange ﬂower and iris.

Pictured (from left, on tray): Guerlain Abeille Royale Day Cream $254; Sisleya L’Integral Concentrated Firming Serum $660; Dior Prestige La Solution Lumiere $648; and capsules of Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Radiance Renewal Serum, 60 for $162; with (clockwise in background from left): La Mer Regenerative Serum $585; Lancome Absolue Regenerating Brightening Soft Cream $430; Paco Rabanne Lady Million 100ml eau de parfum $162; Estee Lauder Pure Colour Desire Rouge Excess Matte Lipstick in Don’t Stop $73; and Sisley Le Phyto Rouge Lipstick in Rio $75.

FOR MORE WHITE FLORAL FRAGRANCE IDEAS, SEE VIVA.CO.NZ/LUXURY-SCENTS

Photo / Babiche Martens. Stylist / Ashleigh Cometti STOCKISTS: Guerlain, Sisley and Boucheron exclusive in Auckland to Smith and Caughey’s, Queen St; La Mer from Smith & Caughey’s Queen St and Newmarket, David Jones, Wellington and selected Meccas; Elizabeth Arden, Lancome, Paco Rabanne, Estee Lauder and Chanel from selected department stores and Life pharmacies (Chanel from its Britomart boutique also); Alexandra Dodd from Sanceuticals.com; Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Dipytque from Meccabeauty.co.nz.

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Feature

Photos / Babiche Martens

eﬁning local

LUXURY

They’re New Zealand’s brand success stories of the new millennium — born here, and founded on accessible luxury, digital savvy and global ambition. Viva talks to ﬁve of our bestloved premium brands about how they’re succeeding on the world stage

VIVA.CO.NZ

Karen Walker

t used to be easy to know what luxury was. It was the most desirable type of product or experience — with goods made from rare and expensive materials and fine workmanship, selected in a lavish boutique or hidden atelier. It was the Birkin bag you had to wait months or years to get — if you could even get on the waiting list in the first place. It was the hotel suite with a famous person’s name or the word ‘Presidential’ in the title. It was the Rolex you might hope to be presented at the end of a distinguished business career. Then the knock-off industry, the internet, the Global Financial Recession and the second-hand luxury and luxury rental markets came along. Suddenly anyone who wanted to could get their hands on a high-end handbag or a Rolex, or something that looked a lot like them. Millennials couldn’t afford their own homes, let alone Presidential suites, but for the price of staying one night at a top hotel they could spend a month Instagramming carefully-framed shots in Bali that looked just as alluring. Venerable fashion houses like Louis Vuitton began collaborating with graffiti artists and streetwear brands (and hiring their designers) and a wave of new digital-led brands arrived, proclaiming their category to be “mass luxury” or “affordable luxury”. In the early 21st century, luxury isn’t what it used to be. It’s a category of product that people right throughout the traditional “middle class” aspire and expect to be able to lay their hands on, not one reserved for the one per cent. This is a revolution that’s been great for smart New Zealand brands. Through the 1900s, our economy was based on producing primary goods, with a manufacturing base focused on practicality rather than

Scott Bridgens luxury. Deregulation in the 1980s hit manufacturers hard, and despite the launch of the “Buy Kiwi Made” campaign in 1988, New Zealand’s manufacturing industry declined even further. At the same time, a new breed of New Zealand brands began to emerge and thrive, focused on creating premium (but not inaccessible), beautifully designed products with compelling branding, manufactured largely oﬀshore and directed at an international market. Although these brands might be recognised as emerging from New Zealand, their origin isn’t necessarily a part of their brand story. We asked Jeremy Hansen of Britomart, the luxury waterfront precinct that’s home to many top New Zealand fashion labels and design-led brands — to gather together and talk to people from ﬁve New Zealand companies that epitomise this new premium category — fashion powerhouse Karen Walker; Donald Shepherd, NZ marketing manager for Fisher & Pakyel; Lucy Vincent, founder of hair and skincare range Sansceuticals; Tony Burt from beverages company East Imperial; and Scott Bridgens, co-founder of Resident designer furniture — about how and why their brands are thriving in today’s global market. Jeremy Hansen: Karen, when and why did you decide that a global business was a possibility?

At the time we launched, we were coming out of the tail end of protectionism. You couldn’t even buy a pair of Levi’s in New Zealand, decent ones. So there was a gap. If you wanted interesting product, you had to make it yourself in the fashion landscape. When it got to a point where it was like, ‘Actually, there is a business here’, we had to change what we wanted to make — whether we were just going to focus on New Zealand or whether we

would keep making what we loved and focus on a global niche market instead, which is what we did. So we have Muldoon to thank...

Karen: Yes we do, entirely! If we hadn’t been closed in as a country at the time economically and in our domestic marketplace, I wouldn’t have done this. Donald, Fisher & Paykel was founded back in the 1930s. What made it decide to turn its attention from the New Zealand market to a global one?

We started in 1934 and we had a manufacturing focus because we were producing great appliances predominantly for Australia and New Zealand. But we saw the change in the world in terms of the way it was developing. Access to foreign markets is now more achievable, so as a business we wanted to take the pillars that we’re known for — innovation and quality — and elevate the brand. Scott, Resident was founded in 2011, and you’ve shown at many international design events since then. What was it about the global furniture market that made you think you had a place and a part to play in it?

More than anything, from a design point of view, it was the opportunity to genuinely test ourselves against the best. If you really want to get the best out of yourself, you have to surround yourself with those you consider to be the best. Lucy, we live in an age where it sometimes seems that every Vogue intern with a trust fund is starting an organic skincare line. What made you want to wade into the space from down here?

Like Karen was saying, it was really about being restricted, not having access to the kind of skincare and products that

Donald Shepherd I wanted that were available in Europe and the US. One of the things that helped us was that we launched at a time when manufacturing was really starting to change. I think manufacturers started to see that start-ups were actually a market, and they started reducing their MOQS [Minimum Order Quantities]. Now I think you’re seeing inﬂuencers and everyone else jumping onto it because small brands are actually a market for big manufacturing companies. Tony, you consider East Imperial to be an Asia-Paciﬁc business. Coming from the advertising industry, what made you think tonic was the thing you wanted to do?

We had an insight about the premiumisation that was happening with spirits. I live in Parnell and seven or eight years ago if you went into Glengarrys there were half a dozen gins behind the counter and they were all known brands that have been around since probably your grandmother was drinking them. But if you go in there now, there’s probably 30 or 40. So we started building the architecture of our brand from the ground up and that took us close to two years to get that story right before actually going to market. What part does New Zealand play in your brand?

Tony: We didn’t set out to create a New Zealand brand, to be honest. We set out to create a global brand. We felt that New Zealand wasn’t intrinsic to the story we wanted to tell. I mean, New Zealand’s not really famous in the history of gin and tonic, and our brand is anchored in history and tradition. But Asia is, hence the name East Imperial. We also didn’t want to create a drink like a lot of the bottled waters that come from New Zealand that say 100 per cent pure VIVA.CO.NZ

Tony Burt

C O N T I N U E D F R O M PAG E 2 5

New Zealand water, because that restricts us if we ever wanted to move our base away from New Zealand. Karen, have you observed changes in the notion of what it means to be a New Zealander in a New Zealand business? For a long time it was considered that we were improvisational and had this ‘No.8 wire’ mentality. How did you step out from under that?

For a long time I had a problem with that because I thought that what it meant was ‘She’ll be right, just bung it together and stick a bit of Araldite on it’. But I’ve come to realise that’s not what it’s about at all. The No.8 wire mentality is about problem solving through creativity. And so I’ve come to love it. That’s what we do every day in our job. We’re in the business of fashion, so we’re dealing with form and function. The product, whether it’s a pair of sunglasses or a fragrance or whatever, it has to function and it has to make you feel something. We’re in the business of dreams, but it also has to function. And so that No.8 wire thing, the problem-solving creativity, is really the core of that. Donald, part of Fisher & Paykel’s shift into the global market has also been a shift from providing a range of appliances at different price points to New Zealanders to a focus on the premium market. What made the company decide that was the best way forward?

When we were looking to target China and America, the UK and Europe, the opportunity was in that premium space. So we as a business needed to transfer our thinking from being a manufacturing-led company to being a design and brand-led company. Our product innovation and our pipeline and our thinking needed to shift, and as that happens, we need to take our traditional New Zealand and

Lucy Vincent Australian markets along with us. It’s a journey because Fisher & Paykel is so entrenched in our minds. We’ve probably all grown up with it in our homes. We all believe we understand it. But I think seeing the brand elevate and take on the global stage is something New Zealand can be proud of. We are quite the opposite to Imperial in that we really strongly integrate New Zealand into everything we do because it’s part of our personality, it’s part of our DNA. Scott, Resident produces furniture, lighting and accessories, many of which are not small or easily transportable. How do you handle the logistics of that business if someone orders a dining table from London for example? Does that create a barrier for you?

I think logistics is our strength. We knew from day one that we needed to make that our strength because being from New Zealand, it would be perceived to be our weakness. One of the strategies we use is to manufacture large volumes of product locally, and when I say locally I mean we manufacture for the US in the US, for Europe in Europe and for New Zealand in New Zealand. Our business is deﬁnitely built on an ability to ﬁnd a good recipe of manufacturing know-how, and connecting the dots to local manufacturers who can execute on our behalf. Lucy, has that been your experience?

Yes, we’re predominantly an online brand and service is a huge driver in our business. We can deliver to the customer in a very short period of time — we reach people in the US in two days and so we’ve been able to achieve great growth there. It sounds like many of your businesses wouldn’t be possible without technological developments in the last decade. Karen, how has that aspect changed in the last decade or so?

Jeremy Hansen WATCH THE

Karen: The power has we’ve been trying to find VIDEO OF THE now completely shifted innovative ways to come FULL PANEL into the hands of the up with a solution. And DISCUSSION AT consumer and the we’ve found some great designer or the brand. things and we’re really VIVA.CO.NZ/ The media and the excited to truly make a PANEL traditional multi-brand difference. retailers have had to re-write Donald: We produce large their rules entirely. The media appliances and the main impact are kind of shifting to becoming we have is through the energy and water retailers and the retailers are shifting they use in our homes or through food to take on the media role and bricks preservation. So we have invested a and mortar retail is now billboard and lot in the product performance. As the experience — it’s the theatre, not actually generational shift to the millennials comes where the sales happen. Everything has through, value-based decisions are even been re-written. more prominent. They look to understand not just what you do but how you go about Finally, what opportunity are you all your business. So we’re starting to bring most excited about in the decade those stories to life. As a brand we’re ahead? interested in how people are living in their Tony: We’re excited about the homes — it’s about being confident enough intersection between wellbeing and to immerse our products to support their premiumisation. What we are seeing is way of living, whichever way that is. this wellness trend that’s washing over everything. People demanding lower Karen: There’s plenty of product out sugar, understanding where ingredients there. The world doesn’t need more stuff. are coming from, how a product fits So it really becomes about telling stories into their lifestyle. Also, low-alcohol and small moments of euphoria. The drinks are becoming a thing. This new business we’re in is telling stories in an generation coming through don’t drink exciting way and continuously going out like the generation before them. We think and telling those stories. A lot of the time the brand can move into a lot of different that takes the form of partnerships or areas over the next five to 10 years and collaborations or alignments with other that’s really exciting for us. brands, retail stores, humans, whatever the case may be. At the moment we have Scott: Our products are products you one with the Auckland Art Gallery, Toi o can work with in both traditional Tamaki, which is one of the highlights of workplaces and people’s homes. That’s my career being able to work with one of a part of the industry that has been my favourite cultural institutions in New changing for a while and will continue Zealand on a Frances Hodgkins project. to. So for Resident it’s an opportunity Last year we worked with Disney, and to come in with a fresh perspective and we’ve worked with Uniqlo, we’ve worked bring products to market that are a with Sephora, Blunt Umbrellas — another fundamentally different option. great New Zealand brand. And that’s the thing I think I’m most excited about. It Lucy: For us packaging is really topical allows our brand to stretch into areas we right now. We’ve been used to a very wouldn’t be able to otherwise. disposable consumer society and so

DA N I S H D E S I G N S I N C E 19 5 2 | BOCONCEP T.COM AU C K L A N D | W EL L I N GTO N | C H R I STC H U R C H

At Home

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The maximalism of the Victorian era is back. A resurgence of dark colours, opulent fabrics, textures, tassels and ornate wallpaper represent the turning tide in design tastes. This Melsetter wallpaper from heritage English brand Morris & Co, founded by William Morris in 1861, epitomises the trend. It made a showing at the London Design Festival this month alongside other Victorianera British brands that are experiencing something of a revival. The Melsetter collection is inspired by the work of Morris’ daughter May, one of English embroidery’s most influential figures. The wallpaper panel, resplendent with birds, flowers and fruit trees, is an ode to the embroidered bed hangings May originally created for her father’s bed. Morris & Co patterns play wonderfully to the zeitgeist for maximalism, says the brand’s creative director, Claire Vallis. “We hope that we will inspire people to have confidence to use wallpaper on all four walls and the ceiling, to mix and match wallpapers, or pick out paint colours for definition.” — Johanna Thornton

• Melsetter wallpaper by Morris & Co, POA, from Textilia. Textilia.co.nz

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FORD THINKING Karla Fisher’s Parnell apartment is a chic blend of historic and contemporary luxury, writes Rebecca Barry Hill

f moving house is stressful, downsizing can be panic-inducing. That was certainly the case when an advertising executive transitioned from her Westmere home to an apartment in Parnell. “I found it totally distressing,” says Karla Fisher, a lead business partner at DDB advertising agency. “I got rid of junk and mess but not half a home like I should have. So I arrived in here with far too much stuff, and a storage unit I’ve only just managed to clear.” Naturally change-averse, her move was an emotional one. But today, looking around the first-floor apartment she shares with 12-year-old daughter Zali, the only hint that not all is zen comes from Willow, one of two British Blue kittens, miffed she’s not getting a pat. The apartment, serene and artfully decorated, oozes understated luxury, from the American oak floors and nearlysoundproof sliding doors to the marble finishing in the kitchen and bathroom, to the George Nelson pendant Karla turned into a floor lamp. After much gradual paring back, Karla and Zali have grown to adore living here. “I affectionately call it my hutch, and I

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love the practicalities of living in a hutch,” says Karla. “You can imagine how lovely it is to open the patio doors up and lounge around. I might be sitting here on the sofa and Zali’s out there or vice versa. The cats are having a roam, and you’re never far from what you’re doing in the kitchen. It’s very secure and easy.” Karla’s former Westmere home was a new build, designed by architect Andrew Patterson 10 years ago. So when she discovered his ﬁrm, Pattersons, was working on the York Street Studios development (now called the Ford Residences after its original incarnation as the car manufacturer’s base) she went all in and bought oﬀ the plans. The architects worked to retain the character of the original buildings, inserting a new structure within the body of one of the factories, and opening up the roof to form a shared entry and open courtyard. “Holding up a 100-year-old, doublebrick structure while we built within it did have its challenges,” explains Pattersons director Andrew Mitchell, who was closely involved in the design. Its striking black exterior was inspired by none other than the compact Ford

“I LIKE A MIX OF OLD AND NEW — THAT CURIO APPROACH” — KARLA FISHER

Karla Fisher’s Parnell apartment is decorated with a mix of old and new pieces that ﬁt together perfectly. Photos / Babiche Martens

Model T, with shiny cladding, tailored lines and aluminium cooling fins, alongside a natural interior palette. “We explored the relationship between new and old,” he says. “Exposing the original brick fabric of the original building while ensuring all new work was complementary and contemporary.” Many of the original bricks were used, including the rear wall on Karla’s patio, a characterful buffer against the elements. Karla worked directly with Pattersons to make a few modifications, extending the kitchen bench and tucking the toilet and shower behind a recessed wall in the bathroom for additional privacy. “We entertain a lot,” she says, meaning the black Simon James barstools she bought when she moved in almost three years ago get a lot of use. So too, the long ECC dining table that has also hosted body corporate meetings. There are 11 apartments in the block, and Karla says she’s come to know everyone. “It’s very neighbourly and we check in on one another. I just love that. I had someone pop in yesterday and ask to borrow a phone charger.” A few of Karla’s most treasured pieces survived the downsizing purge and complement the earthy space: including an off-white Simon James corner suite that kittens Willow and Sage love snuggling on and a vintage Spanish coffer

that now props up coffee table books. The sheer linen curtains at Karla’s Westmere home didn’t just hold aesthetic appeal worth retaining; they were being hung when she went into labour with Zali. More were installed in Parnell in the living and bedrooms (where they’re backed), after being procured with the help of interior decorator Jen Pack, along with large sisal rugs from Artisan, Mt Eden. Elsewhere, creative friends have added personality. Photographer Derek Henderson, whom Karla met while working in her former job as communications manager at Country Road, shot the large-scale photographs on the wall: a multitude of blooming pink hydrangeas and a reflective image of his mother’s hometown of Mercer, giving the room a subtle splash of colour. Visitors are met by a striking image of orchids by her artist friend Nikki Willis. Karla’s keen eye for objet d’art is evident throughout. On the table and cabinet sit ethnic and metallic pieces. A gold eagle, pressed metal urns and brass bowl were picked up during visits to Parnell Rd’s Antiques from Europe. Woven baskets and a vintage screen also soften the space. “I like a mix of old and new, that curio approach where you find odds and sods that you fit together,” she says. “I tend

to buy pieces I like and find a place for them rather than taking a more calculated approach. I like black so there are black accents everywhere. I was thrilled when I saw the design concept: black with tonal — that works for me.” Outside, Karla worked with landscaper Aaron Bell-Booth to create what is essentially an extension of the living room — when the doors are open to the patio the apartment’s 160sq m footprint feels even more spacious. Her brief was to establish a lowmaintenance garden that looked full and dimensional, resulting in fragrant gardenias, titoki and citrus in huge pots, offset by succulents. These frame a neutral lounge suite from Dawsons that Karla put in to give the space more room to relax in than the previous chair and tables allowed. Her “Jack the Ripperesque” view of the Edwardian Dilworth Terraces is one she thoroughly enjoys, but Aaron created a metal vine screen to give more privacy. “It doesn’t matter which way the wind is blowing,” says Karla. “Even when horrific stormy weather is coming in it doesn’t get me, I’m in a little cocoon. Although when the wind blows a certain direction you can hear the ports.” Cabinetmaker Teia Williams was enlisted to beef up the storage space in the hallway cupboard laundry and to

add a bookshelf in the third bedroom, which she’s converted into a cosy TV room, complete with a pull-out sofa bed for overnight guests. Naturally Karla has incorporated her love for graphics to the interior, with artwork by Richard Killeen and John Drawbridge and a vase by Susannah Bridges — unfortunately one of the kittens knocked its sister from its perch and it broke. Karla admits she still misses having a pool and large garden — “mostly to admire though, rather than use” — but the apartment lifestyle has grown on her. She and Zali have an easy drive to work and school, and there’s plenty to do within walking distance on the weekends. La Cigale is an almost weekly visit, although they tend to go on a Sunday when it’s not quite as busy as on Saturdays. “I’ll often wander up to 46 & York to meet friends for drinks; Woodpecker Hill is one of my favourite restaurants as is NSP [Non Solo Pizza].” She and Zali belong to Next Gen Health Club where she admits they prefer to use the pool and watch the tennis than work out, or they’ll head into Britomart. “There’s a lovely patisserie [Vaniye] nearby, and I can’t wait for the new [Westﬁeld] mall to fully open up in Newmarket. I love a one-stop-shop. There’s so much to poke your nose into around here.” VIVA.CO.NZ

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Going Places

LA DOLCE VITA

Think of dreamy Lake Como and images of classic Riva speedboats criss-crossing the lake come to mind, along with ornate and glamorous palazzos occupied by the likes of George and Amal Clooney. So it makes perfect sense, that early this year, luxury hotel group Mandarin Oriental raised the glamour stakes a little higher with the opening of its first hotel in Italy’s northern Lombardy region, just under an hour from Milan. Set in luxuriant botanical gardens on the lake’s east coast — just across from Cernobbio and its grand dame Villa d’Este — the heart of the Mandarin Oriental Lago di Como is Villa Roccabruna, the former residence of soprano Giuditta Pasta, built in 1799. Interior designer Eric Egan’s winning formula combines the elegance of a 19th century Neoclassical villa with a subtle nod to eastern elegance — think antique Chinese screens behind the reception desk — befitting the Hong Kong-based luxury hotel group. The hotel has everything to keep its jet-set guests happy, with two acclaimed restaurants, a luxury spa and a state-of -the-art gym. Sun-worshippers won’t be disappointed; the resort’s magnificent swimming pool floats on the lake with all-day sun. — Andrew Glenn

• Mandarin Oriental Lago di Como. Via E. Caronti, 69, 22020 Blevio CO, Italy. +3903132511. Mandarinoriental.co

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Going Places

MOUNTAIN

HIGH

Andrew Glenn discovers Megeve, a French ski resort for all seasons and an alpine village where understated luxury is the order of the day

s French ski resorts go, there are certainly those more ostentatious (Courcheval), higher in elevation (Val Thorens) and more challenging (Chamonix). But when it comes to understated sophistication, excellent dining, and a certain je ne sais quoi, Megeve might just be the perfect mountain hideaway. Just under an hour from Geneva by car, Megeve is one of the easiest-to-access ski resorts in Europe, frequented by a combination of Swiss visitors and chic Parisiennes who come as much for the charm and allure of the village itself as they do for the skiing. “Megeve is a chocolate-box cliche of an Haute-Savoie ski village,” says interior designer Jocelyne Sibuet, whose family created Les Fermes de Marie, Megeve’s renowned ﬁve-star hotel. “What makes it so special is its authenticity and preserved heritage.” Unlike French resorts Mirabel and Vald’Isere, which are ski-focused, Megeve is popular in all seasons, thanks to its charming pedestrianised village, cobbled streets, horse-drawn sleighs, designer boutiques, restaurants, and hotels. With its gingerbread look it has managed to avoid the brutalist, concrete architecture that has plagued so many other French resorts. The modern story of Megeve — originally a farming village dating back to the 13th century — began a century ago. Following World War I, Baroness Noemie de Rothschild dreamed of 36

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creating a resort to rival St Moritz, but in France, rather than across the border in Switzerland. She scoured Haute-Savoie for a suitable spot and settled on Megeve. By 1920 the baroness had purchased a property at the base of Mont d’Arbois and transformed it into a stylish hotel. By the 1950s Megeve was in full swing, attracting the beau monde of Paris who came for the louche, decadent parties held in numerous nightclubs in the village, including Les 5 Rues, the notorious jazz venue that is still a Megeve must. At the time French writer Jean Cocteau mused that the resort was the “21st arrondissement” of Paris. Today those wild nights are history, the town now settled by a much more bourgeois population of Megevans, a smattering of other Europeans and even a few members of the Saudi royal family, who have owned chalets in the resort since the 1950s. Despite the multi-million Euro price tags of its chalets, there remains an understated air about Megeve. “It’s not about bling

here,” says Olivier Chetail, a leading interior designer born and raised in the town. “It’s sophisticated here, but not pretentious. People here like to be low-key.” One of Megeve’s biggest drawcards is its vibrant culinary scene, propelled by celebrated three-Michelin star chef Emmanuel Renaut who founded the acclaimed restaurant Flocons de Sel in 1998. In the past two decades, a throng of dining options has ﬂourished, going beyond the typical Savoyard specialties of fondue, diots (sausage) and crozets (a French mountain pasta). Then there’s the skiing, of course, and lots of it. Nestled in the shadow of Mont Blanc — Europe’s highest mountain — Megeve is part of the Domaine Evasion Mont Blanc ski area. The evasion covers approximately 445km of trails, accessed from 116 lifts on 219 slopes across ﬁve connected resorts. Whether coming to ski or simply to take refuge in the alpine beauty, Megeve’s seductive charm will have you pining to return for more.

picture, opposite page) where guests can enjoy a horse-drawn carriage to take them to the nearest gondola. An elegant, more intimate option is Chalet Zannier, a 12-room property with minimalist alpine design focused on a natural palette of stone and wood.

THINGS TO DO If you fancy a day off the slopes, check out the Palais des Sports, the largest sports complex in the Alps, featuring an indoor ice-skating rink, huge climbing walls, tennis courts, 1000m² gym and two Olympic swimming pools. Not to be missed is Le Calvaire de Megeve, a series of 15 chapels and oratories depicting the stations (or the Way) of the Cross. For great apres ski and post-dinner drinks, head to Megeve’s legendary jazz club, Les 5 Rues, one of the oldest jazz clubs in France outside Paris, having opened just after World War II. It’s said Frank Sinatra’s My Way was a translation of Comme d’habitude, a song written in Megeve by Claude Francois. SHOPPING From Hermes to Moncler to Aallard — a local brand that invented the stretch ski pant — the village has you covered for chic alpine attire. Lovers of fromage should head to La Cremerie de Megeve which has an excellent assortment, many locally made, including the region’s famed Tomme de Savoie. Don’t miss a visit to Glacon de Megeve, a shop that for 107 years has been making a delicate praline mixture coated with a fine meringue that’s a cult favourite. For watches and fine jewellery there’s Guilhem, where jeweller Philippe Guilhem heads up the 150-year-old house which approaches jewels with fantasy and modernity, including in a beautiful collection of precious stones set in bronze. On the outskirts of town make an appointment to visit Armel Soyer Alps Gallery — curated by Paris-based gallerist Armel Soyer — filled with fabulous furniture and contemporary art pieces by the likes of Xavier Veilhan, Julian Mayor, Denis Milovanov and others.

Hibou Blanc.

L’Alpaga hotel.

DINING With seven Michelin stars in Megeve alone, the bar is definitely raised in the culinary stakes. Chef Antony Bisquerra of the L’Alpaga Hotel has one of these stars, helming the kitchens at the hotel’s two excellent restaurants: La Table de L’Alpaga and L’Onyx. At L’Onyx even a simple salad is special and the service is top-notch. An absolute Megeve must is Le Refuge, an institution for almost 60 years nestled in a secluded pine forest on the mountain. With its cosy, wood-panelled ambience, the restaurant’s menu includes grilled meats from a wood-fired oven and traditional Montagnard specialties including fondue. Its Grand Marnier souffle (left) is the stuff of legend. Back in the village, the new kid on the block is Le Hibou Blanc. Operated by the people behind St Tropez’s legendary Le Senequier brasserie, the “White Owl” offers an excellent French brasserie menu of simple classics executed perfectly. Service can be a bit Parisiennestyle brusque at times, but that’s all part of the fun. On the slopes don’t miss L’Alpette, a mountain restaurant located at an elevatian of 1895m on Rochebrune. Built in 1936, the restaurant was ravaged by fire in 2016 but has been rebuilt. Formerly operated by the Sibuet group, L’Alpette has new ownership and the food standard hasn’t dipped.

Folie Douce. Below: Armel Soyer Alps Gallery.

Four Seasons Megève.

PLACES TO STAY Megeve is not short of options when it comes to luxury accommodation. At the top of the list is the iconic Les Fermes de Marie, a cosy hamlet of nine beautiful chalet-style buildings set a few minutes outside the town centre. Built by the Sibuet family who now run a small empire of chic ﬁve-star French properties from St Barths to St Tropez, there’s a top-notch spa, indoor pool, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, three types of sauna, a steam room, and a gym. At the base of Mont d’Arbois is the luxurious Four Seasons Megeve, a ski-in/out property (main

Les Fermes de Marie.

At the top of Mont Joux, towards the Saint Gervais side of the ski evasion, is La Folie Douce, a fun-ﬁlled establishment with two oﬀerings: an excellent self-service restaurant for those on the go, and a more formal seated restaurant, La Fruitiere, with astonishing views of Mont Blanc. Expect dancing on the tables outside until the lifts close. VIVA.CO.NZ

Going Places

PLAY TIME

The Rugby World Cup is upon us and for those with Japan in view, take a break from all the stadium action with these 10 exceptional ways to enjoy the country in style 1. HEAT UP IN A RYOKAN Star gaze while soaking in one of the rooftop hot spring baths of Hoshinoya Tokyo, a luxuriously modern take on a traditional Japanese ryokan inn housed in a skyscraper in the Otemachi district of the capital. Hoshinoya.com 2. HEAD FOR A RURAL RETREAT For a complete escape, make for the serene, green northernmost island of Hokkaido and head to Niseko. Famed in winter months as powder snow nirvana,

it’s beautiful in autumn too, with its bright seasonal leaves and some of the best vegetables and seafood in Japan. Check into Zaborin Ryokan, a minimal, modern boutique inn surrounded by woods, with private outdoor hot spring onsen baths in each of the 15 rooms. Zaborin.com 3. SET SAIL ON A SHIP DESIGNED BY AN ARCHITECT There are few better ways to dispel cruise ship clichés than by checking

into Guntû, one of the most exquisitely crafted sailing vessels in Japan. Designed by architect Yasushi Horibe and made from 11 different woods, the boutique ship, which sets off from a marina an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Hiroshima Airport, navigates the still blue waters of the Seto Inland Sea and is as luxurious as it is intimate. Expect modern cabins with sea views, floating tea ceremonies on tatami mat floors, wooden onsen-style baths and a top-quality sushi counter and restaurant. Guntu.jp

4. DISCOVER A FOREST FANTASY Leave the modern world behind by checking into Asaba, an atmospheric ryokan inn with 15th-century roots located among forested hills in the small village of Shuzenji on the Izu Peninsula (about an hour outside Tokyo). It oﬀers just the right balance of the traditional and modern: abstract artworks and design pieces are discreetly placed among the tatami mat rooms and sliding screens. Best of all? It overlooks a picturesque lake shrouded in foliage and ﬂowers, fringed

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4 by hot spring baths — complete with a floating Noh stage (for Japan’s ancient form of theatre — ask the hotel about shows). Asaba-ryokan.com 5. EXPLORE JAPAN’S ART ISLAND Enjoy art-filled dreams at Benesse House, an art-gallery-meets-hotel — all cleanlined concrete, minimal light woods and jaw-dropping contemporary art — designed by Tadao Ando on the shores of Naoshima, a small fishing island in the Seto Inland Sea (aka Japan’s original “art island”, packed with world-class art installations and museums). Benesse-artsite.jp 6. GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT A TRANQUIL TEMPLE Skip the Kyoto crowds and enjoy an exclusive behind-the-scenes private meeting with a charismatic head priest at Kiyomizudera, one of the city’s most famous temples, exploring private prayer rooms normally closed to the public while hearing first-hand anecdotes and stories. This is one of a string of VIP experiences curated by Luxurique, a bespoke boutique travel consultancy. Luxurique.com

5 7. TAKE THE ORIENT EXPRESS Forget bullet trains — the most luxurious way to travel across Japan is on board one of a raft of slower-paced (and painstakingly crafted) new generation sleeper trains. Our favourite? Train Suite Shiki-Shima — designed by Ken Okuyama (renowned for his work with Ferrari, Maserati and Porsche) — which showcases an opulent modern take on traditional Japanese style, with round-the-clock butlers, piano recitals and exquisite cuisine, for 34 passengers staying in 17 luxurious guestrooms. It departs from Ueno in Tokyo heading north to Tohoku and Hokkaido on trips lasting up to three nights. Jreast.co.jp 8. GET HANDS ON WITH LANTERNS Tap into your creative side by taking part in a private paper lantern making workshop at Miyako Andon, a family-run company that fuses modern aesthetics with traditional craftsmanship at its serene studio in east Tokyo — and take home your very own wooden-framed washi paper lantern. This is one of a string of activities that can be organised by People Make Places, specialist travel curators with an

impressive network of insider contacts. Peoplemakeplaces.com 9. TASTE WORLD-CLASS SUSHI Sushi Yoshii is no ordinary Tokyo eatery: with its bare concrete walls, minimal Hiroshi Sugimoto photography and dramatic lighting, it resembles more gallery than restaurant — until the chef, under a spotlight, prepares world-class sushi on a wooden board, for a handful of guests seated at a raw-edged counter of stone and glass. Reservations essential. Sushiyoshii.com

10. UNCOVER THE SECRETS OF SAKE Learn more about sake — known as nihonshuin in Japanese — with a behindthe-scenes tour of Izumibashi Shuzo, a 19th-century brewery located just outside Tokyo in Ebina, Kanagawa Prefecture. Surrounded by its own green rice ﬁelds, the brewery oﬀers rare insight into the entire sake-making process — from rice to glass. Visits can be organised by the Peninsula Tokyo, including BMW limousine transfers, a sake gift and a personal interpreter. Peninsula.com — The Telegraph Photos / Getty Images, Supplied

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THE JETSETTER The chicest places to stay and what to pack

SETTING THE STANDARD

Let’s All Go To ...

one of the World’s Greatest Places of 2019 according to Time magazine, it's not hard to see why the Datai Langkawi in Malaysia rates so highly. The resort ticks all the judges’ boxes when it comes to quality, originality, innovation, sustainability and inﬂuence. Dedicated to meeting all the needs of the luxury traveller, it is on the northwest tip of Langkawi island, deep in ancient rainforest and overlooking Datai Bay, named by National Georgraphic as one of the Top 10 Beaches worldwide. Need we say more? Visit TheDatai.com for details

Don’t leave home without ... the latest Bose 700 headphones. To cancel noise as you stretch out in ﬁrst class; enjoy the clearest sound as you close deals on your phone from the New York subway or play tunes as you cross the Serengeti, these are the perfect accessory for those on the move. $690. Bose.co.nz

Standard Hotels has opened its ﬁrst outpost outside North America — in London’s uber-hip King’s Cross. Set within a 1974 Brutalist structure, the 266-room hotel features a working library and a sound studio to host recordings, podcasts, and live shows. Chef Adam Rawson helms two restaurants: Double Standard, serving elevated pub fare — and Isla, focusing on fresh, seasonal cuisine. Next month Peter Sanchez Iglesias will open a restaurant with 360-degree views across London. If Mark Ronson spinning the opening party was anything to go by, the Standard is set to shift the goalposts for London cool. The Standard London, 10 Argyle St, Kings Cross, or visit Standardhotels.com.

ON THE HIGH SEAS

Make like an oligarch cruising the Med, and hire the Seabreeze II this summer — or get in early and book for the America’s Cup. With ﬁve diﬀerent entertaining areas and elegant dining rooms, you can party with up to 60 people, or take the yacht away for a few days with six close friends. Visit Boutiquesuperyachts.com

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Food & Drink

LOOKING GLASS Yes, it’s a little bit Art Deco, and a lot 1970s, but coloured glass is trending and we can’t get enough. Especially when it’s handcrafted and one-of-a-kind. Glass is magical when light catches it, creating a great display on your counter top or shelves. If you’re not ready to go rainbow, dip your toes in the world of coloured glass with a set of beakers that will make drinking water feel like having a fancy cocktail. Monmouth has glasses in a slew of colours to mix, match and have fun with. Or go all-out with a striking carafe or a jug like this green one by German designer Jochen Holz. Crystal glass fruits also have charming retro appeal; these ones are handmade by Auckland artist Devyn Ormsby using glass casting techniques. The sight of the lime, in particular, had us craving an immediate round of margaritas. — Sarah Downs Clockwise, from top left: Monmouth Glass Studio Carafe $220; Tom Dixon Bump Jug, $250, from Simon James Concept Store; Monmouth Glass Studio colour cups, $60 each; Glass fruit from Devonmadeglass.com; Tom Dixon Bump glasses, $110 for a set of 2, from Simon James Concept Store; Jochen Holz green glass jug, $149, from Everyday Needs. Photo / Babiche Martens. Stylist / Sarah Downs STOCKISTS: Devonmadeglass.com; Everyday-needs.com; Monmouthglassstudio.com; Simonjames.co.nz.

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Recipes

SWEET TALK

Berries are ideal for whipping up decadent desserts for all occasions, be they frozen or fresh, says Angela Casley

BERRY BOMBES Makes 6

This dessert is often whipped up when I have egg whites left over from making mayonnaise. For convenience however, store-bought meringues will suďŹ&#x192;ce. Once the bombes are in the freezer they will last for up to a month. 3 cups frozen mixed berries, thawed 3 cups crushed meringues 300ml cream, lightly whipped Fresh berries to serve

1. Line 6 x 8cm ring moulds or a 1 x 20cm cake tin with aluminium foil. 2. Place frozen berries in a food processor and whizz until smooth. Pour through a ďŹ ne sieve, removing any pips. Reserve a third of a cup of puree for garnish. 3. Place meringues and cream in a large bowl and fold together gently. Slowly add puree, stirring just a little so it swirls rather than is completely mixed through. 4. Spoon mixture into the rings or cake tin, cover and freeze for a least four hours or overnight. 5. To serve, sit bombes on the bench for 10 minutes to soften before plating. Garnish with berries and a drizzle of reserved puree.

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STRAWBERRY MOUSSE Makes 4

The best way to push fruit through a sieve is with the back of a metal spoon. Don’t overﬁll the sieve or it will splash over the sides. Gently folding the egg whites into the mixture will help keep the mousse light. The lemon juice will help retain the strawberry colour. 125g plain biscuits 50g butter ½ tsp cinnamon 300g fresh strawberries 2 tsp gelatine 2 Tbsp lemon juice 2 eggs, separated ½ cup caster sugar 100ml cream, lightly whipped Extra strawberries to garnish

1. Place biscuits in a bag and crush with a rolling pin. Place crumbs in a bowl, combine with butter and cinnamon. Divide between four elegant glasses. 2. Blend strawberries, then push through a sieve, discarding the pips. Reserve a quarter of the puree for garnish. 3. Sprinkle gelatine over lemon juice and let it stand for 5 minutes, then pour into a pot and warm to dissolve.

4. Beat egg yolks and sugar for 5 minutes until pale. Add strawberry puree and gelatine mixture while beating. 5. Beat egg whites until stiﬀ peaks form, then gently fold through strawberry mixture, along with the cream. Divide mixture between the glasses. Place in the fridge for a few hours to set. 6. When ready to serve, top with a couple of slices of strawberry and the remaining puree. RICH CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM Serves 4-6

Who can go past chocolate ice cream? This base recipe will accommodate any ﬂavour you’d like to add to it. Leave out the chocolate and try adding liquorice, pumpkin, berry or vanilla. The process is the same. 500ml whole milk 300ml cream 4 egg yolks 140g brown sugar 200g chocolate, ﬁnely chopped 200g raspberries Chocolate bowls 6 balloons 200g chocolate buttons

1. Place milk and cream in a saucepan and bring to the boil. 2. Beat egg yolks and sugar until light and creamy. Slowly pour in the cream and beat until combined. Place the mixture in a clean pot and stir over a low heat until it just coats the back of your spoon. Remove from heat and stir in the chocolate until smooth. Place in a bowl, cover and allow to cool completely, or overnight. 3. Puree half the raspberries and push through a sieve, discarding the pips. Keep the remaining raspberries for garnish. 4. To make the chocolate bowls, blow up balloons to about 15cm diameter. Wash, dry and lightly oil the outsides. Place each one upside down in a cup. Melt chocolate buttons in a bowl over a pot of simmering water. Drizzle over the balloons, creating a bowl shape. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Snip the balloons and slowly let the air out to free the bowls. Keep bowls in the fridge. 5. Churn the ice cream in a machine according to the instructions, or freeze it for 2 hours, beat and refreeze. 6. When ready to serve, roll ice cream into balls and place in the chocolate bowls. Serve immediately with a few raspberries and a drizzle of puree.

Food stylist / Angela Casley Photographer / Babiche Martens

FOR MORE IDEAS, SEE VIVA.CO.NZ/RECIPES

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Food & Drink

THE DISH

Perfect Pair

Secure a limited edition whisky and the best party accessories dinner party

At Your Service

Enjoy cocktail hour at your place with this must-have bar trolley. It's the ultimate party accessory, allowing you to keep up with the conversation as you mix drinks. $809 from Tessuti. Tessuti.co.nz

SEED TO SIP

Whisky lovers can secure the ﬁrst drop of a limited 100-cask run of whisky from a new distillery. Auld Farm, launched at Scott's Gap, Southland, offers seedto-sip whisky from a family that has been growing grain for three generations. Only 100 of the casks made from the 2018 barley harvest are available at a premium price: $9750 for 100L and $12,950 for 200L. The casks will sit at the distillery for either ﬁve or 10 years to suit the purchasers' taste and the spirit can be sampled during maturation, before bottlng and dispatch. Auld Distillery’s single-paddock, single-malt, single-barrel whisky will also be available in 500ml bottles from 2025, expected to retail for about $375.

Shed 10 is set to get a little fancy next month with the return of The Art of Wine. The showcase, previously held at Pah Homestead, brings together more than 40 artisanal producers pouring their tipples under one roof. There’s also a selection of works from top New Zealand artists on display to make your imbibing all the more enjoyable. Tickets start at $45 and the event is split across two sessions from 12.30pm to 3.30pm and from 4.30pm to 9pm. Wine workshops will be hosted by winemakers including Hans Herzog, Rock Ferry, and more. October 14 at Shed 10, Queen’s Wharf. For tickets, visit Greatlittlevineyards.com

To order a harvest cask, visit Aulddistillery.co.nz

CUTTING EDGE

We love the look of this elegant black marble serving board, perfect for cheese and wowing dinner guests. It comes with matching utensils, including a knife for soft cheeses, a plane for hard cheeses and a slicer for medium cheeses, as well as a cheese fork, for the ultimate presentation. Pebble board (large) $160, and utensils $45 each from Backhousenz.com

Experience the magic of Matakana, base yourself at one of our luxurious new Plume Villas and enjoy the superb food and wine at Plume Restaurant. Country life starts here. A one-hour scenic drive north of Auckland, and 5 minutes from Matakana township, lies Plume Restaurant – an oasis for gourmet travellers in a coastal country setting. It’s recognised for superb cuisine and is also the cellar door for Runner Duck Estate Vineyard’s ﬁne wines. Now complemented by Plume Villas, an enclave of 12 new luxury villas set within landscaped grounds. These 1-3 bedroom villas share a swimming pool and are a relaxed stroll from the restaurant. No matter the season or the length of your stay, you will ﬁnd Plume Villas a comfortable place to base yourself while enjoying the many delights nearby. Perfect for a weekend getaway for two, as well as a wonderful venue for weddings, conferences, meetings and private events. www.theplumecollection.co.nz SCL/PLU2018/11

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Dining Out

Sweetest Thing Jesse Mulligan takes his mother on a sweet date to an indulgent dessert restaurant

Passionfruit dessert (above) and yuzu dessert (below) from the seasonal menu at Milse. Photos / Babiche Martens

ou don’t have to drop $800 at Pasture to experience luxury dining. You don’t have to take a helicopter to Waiheke island for lunch or fly to Matakauri Lodge in Queenstown for dinner — though it was good enough for Wills and Kate in 2014. They must have enjoyed themselves because (although I haven’t done the exact calculations) Princess Charlotte of Cambridge was born approximately three trimesters thereafter. Putting aside royally rich budgets, sometimes luxury is just about doing something you wouldn’t ordinarily do: buying Gold Class movie tickets, using cloth napkins, adding Bournvita to your milk bath. So, with your interests in mind, for this glossy luxury issue I did something I’ve never done before and went into the city just to eat dessert. Determined not to spare any expense I paid the extra $1.46 for an Uber ‘Comfort’ and when it asked for my preferences I selected “hot” and “chatty” to ward off the two enemies of luxury: chilliness and loneliness. When I got to the restaurant I ordered two glasses of champagne — one for me and one for my date, my mum (she enjoyed the bubbles, sure, but was happiest just to get some facetime with her son that didn’t involve being handed a five-month-old baby and a list of instructions). We were eating at Milse, the original high-end dessert bar, launched by premier pastry chef Brian Campbell in 2013. Brian has since left to create a rival pudding-based empire called Mianne and, to be fair, I might have reviewed his new flagship restaurant instead but I didn’t want to make my editor type the phrase “for this luxury issue, Jesse Mulligan visited Morningside”. So Milse it was, and we had a lovely time in this tiny but beautiful space — a glass box with an internal dark wood structure which makes it feel as though

you’re eating in a small hut made from gingerbread. There’s seating for perhaps a dozen people though it’s tight enough that you feel the waitress brush your back every time she walks by. People dining-in get to choose from a menu of half a dozen in-season fruits. “Each of them is deconstructed”, the waitress told us, meaning that you won’t get an actual passionfruit on your plate but a series of passionfruit creations and complementary flavours. Well, I don’t know who leaves a dessert restaurant feeling ripped off that they weren’t at any point served an entire piece of fruit but it must happen often enough that they need to make this clear. Owners The Hip Group are known for training their staff well and the Milse crew had the tone right even if the food knowledge wasn’t yet at the standard you’d expect from a fine dining restaurant. That’s important because the food actually is of that standard and the prices are comparable too — you should really feel like you’ve just dropped in for a final course at The Grove, and that’s not quite the case. The other not-veryGrovey factor is that the brightly lit kitchen is very visible from the dining room which rather screws up the mood lighting — not so much of a problem when you’re on a date with your mum, but something to consider if you’re in almost any other sort of dynamic. The food is beautifully done. It was served more cold than hot on the night we visited, but if the temperature was a little uniform the texture was a lot more exciting — the passionfruit, for example, was served as both a curd and a sorbet and came with plum meringue and fragments of sesame sponge. Hidden in the middle, were some tiny savoury morsels of dehydrated black olives. You could, if you were very clever, get all of that in one spoonful but it was just as fun to explore the components one by one. For the next course of yuzu, a Japanese citrus, the fruit was tricky to detect in a good crème brulee but lent its characteristic acidity to two tiny piles of tapioca pearls. The brulee was topped with a rhubarb and pink peppercorn gel, with tiny bits of braised rhubarb scattered around the dish. On top were pieces of pistachio sponge and, best of all, an

apple-mint sorbet which sang with bright herby ﬂavour. The other ingredients occasionally struggled to sing so loud, but it didn’t really matter because if a dessert’s sugar to acidity ratio is right you’re going to enjoy it anyway. A clever winematch is available for each dish and, if your partner/parent is a savoury person, on weekend afternoons Milse does a high tea where not everything is sweet. For those who don’t have time to stay, the takeaway items are arguably even more impressive than the a la carte. Of course if you’re torn, you can always do what I did: eat in, then leave with something from the counter boxed up for later. Now that’s luxurious.

MILSE Cuisine: Dessert Address: 31 Tyler St, Auckland city Phone: (09) 215 8996 Drinks: Fully licensed From the menu: Passionfruit dessert $16; yuzu $14; tamarillo $14. Reservations: Accepted Rating: 15/20 Score: 0-7 Steer clear. 8-12 Disappointing, give it a miss. 13-15 Good, give it a go. 16-18 Great, plan a visit. 19-20 Outstanding, don’t delay.

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