NZH Travel - GO NZ Feature 23rd - June 2020

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JUNE 23, 2020

BE IN TO WIN!

A five-star hotel stay, valued at

$1500

HEAVENLY ESCAPES

An inside look at New Zealand’s most luxurious getaways Luxury lodges | Five-star hotels | Exclusive experiences | Insider secrets | Style tips | Plus much more...

GO NZ!

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2 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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RELAX INTO LEVEL ONE AT CORDIS AUCKLAND THIS WINTER Whether you’re on holiday, marking a special occasion or after some rest and rejuvenation, this 5-star Auckland hotel is celebrating a return to normality with some irresistible offers.

I

t can be a revelation seeing your hometown from a different perspective and it is always exciting exploring a city from within its beating heart.

One of the finest hotels in New Zealand, Cordis Auckland, is known for being a destination property, whether you’re popping in for a celebratory seasonal High Tea by Cordis, you’ve booked a relaxing treatment at its award-winning Chuan Spa Auckland, or you’re lucky enough to be spending the night, either as a staycation getaway or during a visit to the City of Sails for work or pleasure.

As we heave a sigh of relief at the country’s conquering of Covid-19, Cordis Auckland is celebrating a return to business as usual and the reopening of all facilities with some tempting and much-deserved “Go NZ” offers.

From its central city location at the Karangahape Rd end of Symonds St, this 5-star hotel is known for its recently refurbished well-appointed rooms and suites. All rooms and suites offer luxurious Dream Beds for a great night’s sleep, a plush armchair to relax in, comfortable work stations, and large windows to let in the light.

Suitable for everyone from business executives to families

and leisure travellers, each room features thoughtful amenities, hightech connectivity and handcrafted furnishings to create the perfect haven of relaxation.

You don’t need to be a guest of the hotel to enjoy its food and beverage offerings, which includes a sumptuous buffet offering currently only offered on weekends, helmed by an expert chef, and of course the hotel’s famous High Tea by Cordis Here, locally sourced ingredients are used to craft an exquisite high tea menu perfect for celebrating special occasions, complete with delicate sandwiches, fluffy scones with artisan jam and clotted cream and other sweet treats. A resident tea sommelier will sort out your choice of tea, coffee or champagne.

All are now welcome, too, to return to Cordis Auckland’s rooftop wellness area which includes an outdoor heated pool and spa pool framed by palms and comfortable sun loungers, relaxing saunas and herbal steam rooms, a snail shower and ice experience, and the peaceful oasis of Chuan Spa Auckland.

GO NZ: BOOK NOW AND SAVE Cordis Auckland is offering 15 per cent off selected rooms and packages for bookings until July 23 and for stays until December 31, 2020. You can book online at Cordishotels.com/en/auckland; by phone on (09) 379 5132 or by email at cdakl.info@cordishotels.com, using the promo code “GONZ”. The hotel’s exclusive “Locally Yours” winter packages for families, romantics and foodies includes some amazing hotel benefits and a discount card which gives you access to activities around New Zealand.

Visit Cordishotels.com/en/auckland/promotions/locally-yours for more information. Subject to availability.

CHUAN SPA AUCKLAND Really relax into Level One and book a Sothys Vanilla & Passionfruit facial for 60 mins to receive a complimentary 20-minute tension relief massage for back, neck and shoulders valued at $55. Day spa users can enjoy the use of the tri-bathing facilities at Chuan Spa Auckland including the swimming pool, sauna, herbal steam room, snail shower and ice experience.

For bookings until August 23. To book, please phone (09) 300 2960 or email: cdakl.info@chuanspa.com using the promo code “GONZ”. Book now at Cordishotels.com/en/auckland

HIGH TEA BY CORDIS Book an exquisite high tea before July 23 and receive a complimentary glass of sparkling wine per person. To book, please phone (09) 300 2924 or email cdakl.eats@cordishotels.com using the promo code “GONZ”. Visit Cordishotels. com/en/auckland/promotions/restaurantsand-bars/high-tea-by-cordis-autumn/ Subject to availability

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz »

FROM THE

16 » 24

TRAVEL EDITOR Luxury means many different things to different people.

It might be a super-exclusive lodge in a remote location, the only way in and out by helicopter or private boat.

Perhaps it’s a five-star hotel staycation, feet sinking into sumptuous carpets while cocooned in fluffy bathrobes.

Maybe a round of golf at a championship course? Expensive sheets on a cloud-like bed. An indulgent meal at a fine-dining restaurant, accompanied by the finest wines.

Whatever your dream luxury situation, New Zealand has it in spades, and this week’s bumper 48-page issue, in partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, is here to showcase the very best the country has to offer.

It’s not all the stuff of unattainable fantasies, however. While the most expensive item featured comes in at a whopping $31,900, the cheapest is a far more accessible $120. And no, I didn’t forget any zeros. Aotearoa has something to wow you, no matter your budget.

As well as in inside look at the world of luxury, this week we’re also giving you the chance to win your own five-star hotel staycation, valued at more than $1500.

Turn to page 30 to find out how to enter.

Of course, the biggest luxury any of us can be afforded these days is time.

Wherever you’re reading this today, I hope you can sit back, relax and and take some time to be inspired and find your own moment of bliss.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS

Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters / Ngāi Tahu Tourism travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

Resene Midwinter Mist

12

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30 »40 » 42 » 46 »

A LIFE IN TRAVEL

TREAT YOURSELF Five-star hotels for a luxe staycation LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Jesse Mulligan visits Hawke’s Bay LAP OF LUXURY Inside some of NZ’s incredible luxury lodges WIN A luxury hotel stay, valued at $1500 THE FRONT LINE The country’s most impressive golf courses STYLE Viva’s Dan Ahwa helps you look the part MATTERS OF THE HEART Stephanie Holmes’ Aotearoa Adventures

Lorna Subritzky on a jet ski in the Hokianga.

Photo / Supplied

Lorna Subritzky What are your favourite memories from childhood family holidays in NZ? Riding motorised swans at Fantasyland in Hastings, before entering the Old Lady’s Shoe and burning my knees on the metal slide; with my penpal Teresa, emptying Dad’s wallet into the Hive arcade games on Napier’s Marine Parade; a day Lorna Subritzky trip to Picton on the Aratika hosts Days with If you were heading on a family ferry, giggling at the seasick Lorna on Coast FM getaway now, where would you tourists; taking Gramps, visiting weekdays, 9am-3pm. go? from the UK, to Hell’s Gate in Hokianga in a heartbeat. The Rotorua and realising half-way Copthorne in Ōmapere makes a through the mud pools that he perfect base for exploring one of the was still wearing his slippers; a giant oldest settlements in the country, best icecream in Featherston as reward for done astride an Awesome Adventures’ jet-ski. surviving a hair-raising Rimutaka Hill Road.

Later we’d slide down the sand dunes, and The ubiquitous sunburned nose — and the take a walk through Waipoua Forest to marvel endless summers. at Tane Māhuta and the even older Te Matua Where is your favourite off the beaten track/ Ngahere. secret spot in NZ to get away from it all?

What are your best tips for a successful Tāwharanui Beach. I’m amazed how few family holiday?

Aucklanders make the hour-long drive to Discuss what you want out of the holiday and reach this oasis with something for everyone: make sure everyone gets a break from their perfect waves for boogie boarders and usual routine. When we have larger family surfers (and serene bays for the littlies), trips, outings are planned for different groups bush walks, rare-bird breeding grounds, long and swapping stories at dinnertime is the stuff stretches of golden sands, and shaded spots of magic memories. Also I’m a fan of no Wi-Fi under clifftop pōhutukawa.

Resene Paradise

THE LUXURIOUS LIFE Lap up some luxury this winter and spoil your walls with a fresh Resene paint colour, inspired by our indulgent cover. Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946.

Resene Relax

(except for me. I need it for work. Cough).

What’s your dream NZ roadtrip?

A motorhome adventure. I love the idea of exploring and parking up on a whim but I’ve never done one. I may be romanticising it but I really want to do two weeks around the South Island because my mainland experiences are sadly thin on the ground and by all accounts, it’s the best.

And if you could choose one ultimate, luxury, dream holiday in NZ, where would you go and why?

The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs, because I’ve heard so much and a little luxe never hurt. The dream is helicopter transfers, champagne and crayfish on tap, and some scenic relaxation away from the madding crowd (read: the kids) for me and my darling. Spa treatments and a good book, and I’d be ready to face the real world again. Maybe.

Resene High Tea

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4 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

SPONSORED CONTENT

Photo / Wharekauhau Country Estate

LUXURY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

Aotearoa offers world-class, unique experiences that allow you to enjoy <47 0#7? <43#5> 3# %367) ?75;?8%7>> "6 *"/? :/857<

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1

NORTHLAND

The top of New Zealand has a rich heritage and The Landing, a unique conservation property set on 400ha of beaches, wildlife sanctuaries, vines and rolling hills at Kerikeri, sits on some of New =2<,<)3:% +(%$ /.%$(&.9<,,8 %.0).69<)$ land. The Purerua Peninsula is the <&&."<, '(.)$ (1 42! =2<,<)3:% 6&%$ European settlers in the early 1800s, hence the property’s name, and The Landing was developed with the blessing and contribution of local iwi.

The property has a choice of luxe accommodation, from two bedrooms to the sumptuous Cooper Residence which sleeps up to 12, with each guest treated to exceptional dining and award-winning wine. There are also a range of wonderful activities <"<.,<;,27 1&(+ 0<+2 6%/.)0 <)3 golf to spa treatments and archeological tours. https://www. Thelandingnz.com/

2

AUCKLAND

The sheer act of arriving on pretty Waiheke Island — 35 minutes by ferry or a scenic 10-15 minutes by air — feels like a luxury experience in itself.

Heletranz offers a progressive dining experience by helicopter, meaning less time for travel and more time for enjoying the exquisite food and wine on offer at each Waiheke venue. *(#& 5.0/$ $( $/2 .%,<)3 $<-2% .)

Rangitoto and Motutapu islands, before a wine tasting and shared platter at Man O’ War Vineyards in the east. A driver will take you for lunch at either Casita Miro or Poderi Crisci, before dropping you at Tantalus Estate’s Alibi Brewer’s Lounge for an espresso martini and dessert. Return to the city by chopper or ferry, or stay overnight. https://www.heletranz.co.nz/

3

HAWKE’S BAY

Hinewai Hawaikirangi and

1

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 5

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Cameron Ormsby share their values, way of life and environmental principles during one of their Napier Maori Tours, which offer a unique insight into the couple’s community.

The Wildlife Estuary Tour takes in the biologically diverse and wildlifeprotected Ahuriri Estuary, while the Ancient Village Traverse Tour visits the Otatara Pa Historic Reserve, once &.1 ,B(/1'& 0*(&-912 $-,,B/1 -+ 31# Zealand. Guests will enjoy some traditional kai (food) while learning about Maori customs and the region’s legends and history. https://www. Napiermaoritours.co.nz/

4

WAIRARAPA

60 B 9$1;'&B( /1&B#B= &* &.1 ?*%+&(= is your idea of luxury, Wharekauhau Country Estate at ruggedly beautiful Palliser Bay will tick all your boxes. Set on a working sheep and cattle farm, the heritage property has 16 private cottage suites and an opulent Owners’ Cottage that sleeps six.

Wharekauhau is either a 15-minute helicopter ride from Wellington or a 1.5 hour drive over the Remutaka Hill, and suitable for all travellers, from groups and families to couples and friends.

During your country escape you can (1,B> -+ 0(*+& *0 &.1 9(1< /* 1>),*(-+/ in a pair of gumboots, visit some of

New Zealand is paradise :&$ 9&,: ,&E;$#! C7"8 <&=;(# &: %$;*7F* >&F$#;# :$&* "&% "& @&""&*L 1& >&*@7(; ?&F$ ,FAF$? 9&,: 9;"BCB? C7"8 "8; @;#" 7( :&&<! C7(; B(< B>>&**&<B"7&(! ?&F could head for Kauri Cliffs at Matauri Bay, Northland. )B("7(9 #&*;"87(9 B ,7"",; :F$"8;$ #&F"8/ )8? (&" "$? IBC.;'# +B? #7#";$ %$&%;$"? 18; JB$* B" KB%; Kidnappers, or Kinloch Manor & Villas at Taupo in the North Island. And if ?&F 8B%%;( "& @; "$BE;,,7(9 :F$"8;$ <&C( B(< ?&F'$; after a round or two in B #"F((7(9 ,&>B"7&(! "8;( -$$&C"&C('# 18; I7,,# &$ GB>.'# 5&7(" 7( 4F;;(#"&C( #8&F,< @; "&% &: ?&F$ ,7#"L

H( $;9F,B$ "7*;#! %;&%,; "$BE;, :$&* B,, &E;$ "8; world to access our $7E;$# B(< #"$;B*# C8;( "8;? B$; $F((7(9 C7"8 C7,< "$&F"L H: ?&F'$; B 0? 3#87(9 :B(! &$ 8BE; B,CB?# CB(";< "& 97E; 7" B 9&! 1BF%&'# IF.B D&<9; &$ (;B$@? 5&$&(F7 D&<9; &::;$ 7(>$;<7@,; experiences in the North H#,B(<! C87,; 2"&(;0?

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the region’s many wineries, try some of the activities on offer such as heli9'.-+/ *( .*('1 (-2-+/< B+2 -+2%,/1 -+ world-class farm-to-table cuisine.

The property currently has a great offer for New Zealand residents where for $995, per night per couple, you’ll enjoy pre-dinner drinks and canapes, a four-course gourmet dinner, full country breakfast, complimentary take-home bottle of locally made Lighthouse Gin, access to lodge facilities and hiking trails, and a late check-out of 1pm. That way you get to enjoy living in the lap of luxury for just a little longer. https://www.wharekauhau.co.nz/

5

BLENHEIM

New Zealand wine is considered a luxury the world over and one of our best-known producers is Cloudy !B=< *+1 *0 4B(,A*(*%/.@' 9('& 9$1 wineries 50 years ago. One of the incredible bespoke experiences it offers as part of its Destination programme is ‘Forage’, which can be experienced as either ‘Sea Forage’ or ‘Land Forage’ — or both — and is the perfect excursion for a group of up to 12.

Sea Forage sees guests spend the day sailing in the stunning Marlborough Sounds aboard a private

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cruise launch learning about New C1B,B+2 +B&-$1 8*(B B+2 0B%+B #.-,1 /B&.1(-+/ 0(1'. 9'. B+2 )(*2%?1: "& the end of the day you’ll be shown how to shuck clams then enjoy your hard work at dinner in the Cloudy Bay Shack’s intimate dining room. During &.1 5B+2 7*(B/1< .1(A'< 8*#1(' B+2 plants are gathered and guests will either visit an artisan cheesemaker or learn about the beehives in the Cloudy Bay vineyards. A private chef will create your evening menu around the day’s produce, matched with Cloudy Bay’s award-winning premium wines. https://www.cloudybay.co.nz/

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CANTERBURY & OTAGO

Luxury accommodation comes in all guises. Nestled into the spectacular landscape of Canterbury’s Ahuriri Valley is The Lindis, which offers a range of options to rest your head. The most unique are its very private pods, which have double-glazed mirrored glass walls on three sides, fully immersing guests in the environment. The pods come complete with private outdoor bathtubs, full heating, an en suite, outdoor area and top-of-the-line linen and toiletries. A surprise getaway with a loved one here is one

&.1=@,, 219+-&1,= +1$1( 0*(/1&: https://www.Thelindisgroup.com/ Any visit to Queenstown gets off to a cracking start with extraordinary views of the Southern Alps, The Remarkables mountain range and Lake Wakatipu if you’re arriving by air (try and get a window seat if you can), though the drive in from any direction is pretty special too.

Luxury tour operator Black ZQN can meet you at the airport or your hotel and take you on any adventure you desire — whether it’s a bespoke itinerary designed just for you or one of their suggested tours, which cover everything from hiking and wine to skiing and even gold panning at a private historic backcountry gold claim in a remote location.

BLACK ART is the company’s art tour of a region which has inspired creatives for decades, with many leading artists and sculptors regularly exhibiting their work here. Guests will have the opportunity to see the most popular attractions alongside some hidden gems of the area’s art scene, as well as indulging their senses in any other ways they choose — whether that’s at a boutique winery, at one of the resort town’s best restaurants, or at its most impressive sights or activities. https:// www.Blackzqn.com/tours/art-tours/

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6 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Holidays at Home

$$

»

HotxDeals m o i t i d ury E Lu

WORLD FAMOUS ON THE WAIKATO Fancy arriving at your hotel in style? The world-famous Huka Lodge, on the banks of the Waikato River, is offering guests the chance to travel from Auckland by helicopter, before settling in for pre-dinner drinks and canapes at the lodge. Later, sit down to a five course set menu fine-dining experience, before staying overnight in a junior lodge suite. After a full country-style breakfast the next morning, enjoy 18 holes of golf at either Kinloch Club or Wairakei Golf and Sanctuary (green fees and cart hire included). After golf, your helicopter will depart Huka Lodge and return you to Auckland. Priced from $2915 per person (based on six people).

To book phone 09 415 3550, info@heletranz.co.nzbook.

Valid until September 30.

BY GEORGE, THAT’S LOVELY

SPOT THE STARS FROM BED

Whether you’re celebrating a special milestone or just looking for a night away, The George has the perfect solution for your luxury getaway in Christchurch. Amp up the romance with a bottle of chilled Nautilus Cuvee, a box of Butlers handmade chocolates, and a single white rose, as well as a complimentary car-park and free Wi-Fi. Then, lie in gloriously late with a noon check out from your premium executive room and savour breakfast for two, served either in your room or in 50 Bistro. Priced from $315.

Visit thegeorge.com/special-offers/romance-package or call 03 379 4560 to book.

Join the stars high above the award-winning Greystone vineyard. The Greystone PurePod transports guests to a little slice of New Zealand paradise without sacrificing on luxury. Just an hour north of Christchurch, in the heart of the Waipara Valley wine region, the all-glass pod means views across to the Southern Alps, and the night sky is perfectly framed for star-spotting in bed. So out of the way, your only neighbours will be the friendly flock of sheep nearby. Priced at $590 a night (for two people).

LODGE LUXURY IN NELSON Edenhouse Luxury Lodge is world-famous, but not necessarily a household name in New Zealand. Get to know the picturesque Nelson spot with a stay in one of the lodge’s three luxe spaces (each with two bathrooms and a sitting room) and each night, enjoy complimentary pre-dinner drinks, dinner — with fine wines — and breakfast. If you stay for two nights or longer, you’ll also receive a 1.5L magnum from nearby Kahurangi Estate winery. Priced from $1175 per night for two guests.

Contact info@edenhouse.co.nz or visit edenhouse.co.nz/specials-new-zealand to book.

HAPUKU LODGE REOPENING SPECIAL Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses are taking the Covid interruption to make some changes to the country hotel, just north of Kaikōura.

Re-opening in October, they will be offering three nights in an upperbranch tree house for the price of two, plus they’ll throw in complimentary, freshly-baked cookies, a daily three-course meal for two, and breakfast for two each morning. Priced at $2995 for two people, from October.

Visit hapukulodge.com/packages to book.

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ENJOY VICTORIAN GRANDEUR

SPECTACULAR SCENERY

Otahuna Lodge, the historic Victorian homestead just 20 minutes’ drive from Christchurch, wants to welcome you this winter with a handful of specials. The first includes accommodation for two in a suite (upgraded to a master suite if availability permits), pre-dinner drinks and canapes, a four-course set menu dinner with a bottle of wine, and a full breakfast the following day for $1198, available until September 30. Or, if you want the run of the place, become the Lord of the Manor, with exclusive use of Otahuna Lodge for a minimum of 10 people (in up to seven suites and master suites) for $6495 per night including pre-dinner drinks, five-course dinner with matched New Zealand wines, Wi-Fi, and full breakfast. This deal is available until October 31. The lodge will be closed from July 5 to August 4 for planned maintenance.

Visit otahuna.co.nz to book.

Get up close and personal with the best of the Marlborough Sounds on this 3-night escape to the wonderful Bay of Many Coves Resort. Transfer to the resort with E-Ko Tours and enjoy local aquaculture, resident dolphins, sample local wines, feast on award-winning cuisine and soak up the spectacular scenery from the comfort of your luxury retreat. This package includes three nights’ accommodation in a luxury one-bedroom apartment, gourmet breakfast each morning, an elegant 3-course dinner on your first two evenings followed by a 7-course degustation with wine match on your third evening.

Transfers to and from Picton are included. Package is priced at $2950 per couple.

Book at enquiries@bayofmanycoves.co.nz or ph 03 579 9771.

ROYAL TREATMENT Follow in the footsteps of one of Queenstown’s pioneers and leading explorers. Enjoy a two night stay at The Rees, with views of Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables and receive a complimentary upgrade to an executive room/apartment (based on availability), breakfast each morning, a bottle of The Rees Surveyor Thomson pinot noir on arrival, complimentary undercover car parking and late checkout. During your stay, take to the skies on a scenic flight with Over the Top Helicopters to their private High Country Station, featuring a unique stone cottage built by pioneering gold miners in 1865. You will be treated to the full Kiwi experience, with locally sourced lamb chops on the barbecue, refreshments, and a “toss the horseshoe” game. Priced from $360pp per night (based on two people). You can add an alpine landing to your helicopter flight for an additional $385.

Email reservations@therees.co.nz to book.

SPECIAL TIME AT THE FARM Lap up the luxury at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. In a deal exclusively for New Zealand residents visiting between August 1 and October 31, you can stay at The Farm for just $675 + GST per person, per night. The special includes daily breakfast, lunch, pre-dinner drinks and canapes, as well as your choice of either an a la carte dinner or five-course tasting menu, plus select wine and beverages and a complimentary in-suite, non-alcoholic minibar. For each night stayed, each guest can also choose between a 50-minute spa treatment or a day of unlimited green fees on the Cape Kidnappers golf course. Phone 09 407 0065 or email reservations@robertsonlodges.com to book.

ESCAPE TO THE TREETOPS Nestled in 1000ha of private native forest, take some time out at Treetops Lodge and Estate. Explore the estate on horseback, unwind with a visit to the Wilderness Spa, or try archery, clay shooting or fly fishing. Until October 31, you can stay for a minimum of two nights, with early check-in and late departure, an automatic upgrade to a luxury villa with open stone fireplace and Jacuzzi bath .Then, savour a pre-dinner drink and canapes, and the famed Estate to Plate five-course degustation dinner, plus a full breakfast daily. Guests can choose two extras from a 4WD estate wildlife safari, a lesson at the Estate to Plate wild food cooking school, or a round of golf on their 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Golf Course, The Kinloch Club (card not included). Priced at $1195 per couple per night. Visit treetops.co.nz/offers/pure-escape to book.

VILLA ABOVE THE VINEYARDS Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa, just a stone’s throw from Queenstown is making it easy to put your feet up. In a winter special valid until August 27, you’ll have your own villa, overlooking the vineyards, and be greeted with a welcome drink, before jumping into daily wine-tasting sessions, with access to complimentary bike hire, a gym, sauna and hot tub. Priced from $330 per night for a minimum of three nights, or stay a single night from $395, visit gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa. com/special-offers to book.

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8 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

E XPERIENCE SOMETHING GRAND

Stay in understated elegant rooms, indulge in luxe dining, experience Auckland, be entertained or simply relax.

It’s It s all here he on your doorstep.

Quote

GONZ

when you book and receive complimentary breakfast for up to two adults.

The Grand by SkyCity, 90 Federal Street, Auckland, 1010 www.thegrandbyskycity.co.nz Offer valid for up to two adults when a room only ‘Best Flexi Rate’ is booked before 10 July 2020 for stays until 30 September 2020.

Breakfast available at Gusto at the Grand up to the value of $25 per person. Blackout dates may apply and not available in conjunction with any other offer.

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GO NZ: Luxury Memories

» For more on Minaret Station, see p28-p29

prized times

A luxury holiday can mean different things depending on who you ask. But for our writers, it means an unforgettable experience and memories to treasure. guests feel with manager Kay and her dear little dog Freddie. Together they preside over this romantic, luxurious but somehow still homely 16ha estate.

— Tim Roxborogh

To me, luxury is quiet and space. Most importantly, big skies, preferably covered in stars; secondly, only the sounds of nature — wind and water, birds and brooks. So Minaret Station was my dream location. There are no roads you can drive to reach this luxurious lodge high above Wānaka, so I was picked up in Queenstown and choppered across Otago’s beautiful mustardy landscapes. The lodge sits in an ancient glacial valley 900m up. The showers and hot tubs are fed by a waterfall nearby. The service is unpretentious. There are just four cabins, an open bar full of winter warmers, a wonderful chef who uses what’s available to him. And a canopy of stars.

— Maggie Wicks

At the bottom of the South Island, where the land ends and the sea disappears past the horizon, a path runs beside the coast. Hump Ridge Track heads west before setting uphill. The trust that runs the track will, for a fee, take your pack by helicopter to Ōkaka Hut at the bushline.

It’s a tempting offer because the first and hardest day of the Hump Ridge loop covers 19km. At the hut, there’s time for a hot shower — run on gas bottles dropped by the chopper — before a high-altitude dinner of Southland lamb shanks washed down with a Central Otago pinot. Tramping, with a high-end twist.

— Andrew Stone

Keep your high thread counts and your all-day spa treatments. Nothing says luxury like a historic farmhouse that contains a gigantic room that exists for no other purpose than eating.

Marlborough’s Rowley Estate Homestead has a superb kitchen and a cosy lounge, but it was the casually formal dining room that stole my heart. Chandeliers. A warm, solid wood table. A room that demands 10 best friends for a long louche lunch and a late, late night — private chef optional and the best Marlborough wines an absolute given. In the morning, there are fresh pastries at the back door and a coffee pot on the stove. Bliss.

— Kim Knight It’s the place I came to my senses as a bachelor and it’s the place where, almost exactly a year later, I got engaged. For those two reasons alone, Tauranga’s French Country House will always be special to me. As the name conjures, this is elegance of the highest order. With marble floors, chandeliers, throne-like dining chairs, claw-footed baths, spiral staircases and wonderful old wooden beams, it is arguably the most opulent accommodation option in the Tauranga region.

But more than that, there’s the connection

Minaret Station, in the Southern Alps (top); the Hump Ridge Track in Tuatapere, Southland; Tauranga’s French Country House. Photos / Supplied

Houses in bush above a huddle of yachts in a bay, sun dancing on the water, it’s so romantic we could almost be on the French Riviera. But we’re only 15 minutes from downtown Rotorua at Okawa Bay on Lake Rotoiti. Tiua, 16m of pure, multihull luxury from Pure Cruise New Zealand, sits at the end of a short dock. Heading upwind on the lake, we nip over to one of For more on Rotoiti’s many bays for a Hiakai, see close look at classic boats p38-p39 rafted up for their annual meet. They could have motored out of a 1950s film set. We lounge in the sun nibbling canapes as lunch is prepared. We hardly notice the sails drop or the

motor purring, but suddenly our heading has changed and we float up to a jetty. It’s Hot Water Beach. With the mercury pushing the mid-20s, why would you want to sit in a hot pool? But the geothermal spring water soon eases any tension from the body. Later, a quick jog down the wharf and dive into the lake revives the sense.

It’s time to go.

— Alex Robertson In 2003, a group of academics identified a fourstep hierarchy of eating. At level one, the food we need to survive and grow. At level four, foods that are limited in supply, difficult to procure or very expensive. Luxury, by any other description.

Dinner at Monique Fiso’s restaurant, Hiakai, is next level.

It takes weeks to get a booking at the restaurant that doesn’t even look like a restaurant until you climb the stairs to your plush and dimly lit booth.

Seven set courses of Aotearoa as you’ve never tasted it before. Rēwana with tı̄tı̄ oil. An oyster with horopito foam and sea celery. The pudding is made from Milo, wit and genius. Fiso’s contemporary Māori cuisine is on multiple bestin-the-world lists and all I had to do was fly 45 minutes to Wellington.

— KK Snow is not my natural habitat — I’m from Northland — but it turned our Routeburn Track walk in November 2018 into the most splendid adventure. We were with Ultimate Hikes, so we’re talking private lodges, slap-up meals — and flushing toilets.

They say their staff strive to make sure your time off the track is as memorable as that on it. That would have been the case, had it not been for the snow. The lodges, the wine, the food were all spectacular, but they were trumped by the sheer splendour of the natural environment.

— Jenny Woods Any kind of holiday is a luxury on some level but how about one that’s all about you?

Resolution Retreats, now in Karapiro, gives you the chance to take a good look at yourself — what you’re eating, what you’re drinking and

Continued on p10

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10 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Karl Puschmann in Cromwell (top); the view looking down Routeburn flats on the Grand Traverse hike; the Routeburn Track (right). Photos / Supplied

Continued from p9 how you are looking after you. I spent three days doing all of the above — you can stay for as long as three weeks. It starts with a goody bag on arrival and then during your stay, other people will prepare your meals according to a nutritionist-designed meal plan drawn up just for you — then teach you how to do it. Enjoy the virtuousness, and improved physical wellbeing of daily fitness and yoga sessions, while experts who talk about hormones and motivation will give you a whole new insight into you. No kids, no pets, no partners. You. — Helen van Berkel The speck in Cromwell’s sky grew larger in both size and volume as it hovered nearer. My fellow diners at the previously tranquil Mt Difficulty Winery restaurant all put down their forks to glare — upwards. Even after the helicopter touched down, the noise did not subside. The engine stayed on, the blades kept spinning. Who was arriving in such dramatic fashion? Someone rich? Clearly. Someone famous? Maybe. But who?

Well, me. Only I wasn’t arriving.

I stood up and walked toward the copter as heads turned and jaws dropped. My clothes

betrayed the fact I was obviously not rich and my face was not famous. But as people gawked, I got a glimpse of what it must feel like.

I clicked myself in and away we went, towards the craggy snow-capped For more on ranges.

Millbrook Resort, Landing on a peak in the Pisa see p40-p41 Range, at a spot accessible only by chopper, there was nothing but blindingly white snow. I breathed in the purest air I’ve ever encountered, soaked in the views and, when his back was turned, threw a snowball at the only other passenger.

— Karl Puschmann

Andrew Alderson at Millbrook Resort’s 18th hole.

It was October and the second week of the school holidays. I had a child being assessed for ADHD and a looming uni assignment.

Desperate for a break, my son was flung across the Ditch to see his Sydney cousins, and my partner and I loaded the car with research books (for me) and fishing gear (for him) and headed north. We booked four nights at Sanctuary Palms in Paihia. It was paradise. We woke early and stumbled over rocks to a surfcasting hotspot, lugging my laptop, breakfast, and great expectations. The only thing we caught was the sunrise, but it didn’t matter. The biggest

challenge was an over-achieving bathbomb that had us frantically piling fluffy clouds of bubbles into the shower cubicle before we could see the bathtub again. I abandoned my study aspirations and succumbed to days lying on a hammock, serenaded by music from the Food and Wine Festival below. We returned home with a chilly bin full of snapper (thanks to Days Out fishing charters) and promises to return.

— Khalia Strong Golfers might relish an autumn pilgrimage to the Millbrook Resort course. Three nine-hole layouts — The Arrow, The Coronet and The Remarkables — are kept in such regimented condition that even the warm-coloured leaves around tree trunks appear contracted not to break ranks.

A round of 116 vouched for the fact I saw plenty of the landscape, hacking at the ball like I was auditioning for a part in Alfred Hitchcock’s Psycho movie.

Still, what’s not to love when your frustration is framed by vistas of the Queenstown-Lakes District? The scene is further enhanced at dusk.

The scent of burning macrocarpa leads to residents supping pinot noir around fireplaces in chalets dotted along the fairways. For one glorious weekend, that was me.

— Andrew Alderson

Escape to Marlborough Enjoy all that the gourmet province of Marlborough has to offer from the vines to the sounds or simply soak up the serenity in our 16 acres of paradise.

Special Rates and Packages Reservations@themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

(03) 570 5700

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 11

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travel

12 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Hotels

»

Treat

YOURSELF

Hotel Grand Windsor on Queen St. Photo / Babiche Martens

Need a mini break? New Zealand has an array of worldclass five-star hotels ideal for a luxurious staycation, writes Johanna Thornton Hotel Grand Windsor, Auckland Style: Old-world glamour Setting: Heritage city haven Go for: A stylish staycation Aucklanders may have missed this hidden gem on lower Queen St, nestled among luxury international retail stores such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci. The heritage building that houses the Hotel Grand Windsor has been around since 1928, but its refurbishment in 2017 has brought the hotel firmly into the five-star category. The interior is a classical Art Deco style and the effect is like stepping into a bygone era — ideal for a mini break in your own city. The holiday begins as soon as you enter the doors to the grand lobby with its glamorous chandelier, marble tiles, and brass and velvet finishes. The hotel’s 79 rooms and suites are themed around extravagant jewellery collections, with jewel-toned furnishings paired with muted fabrics, beautiful bedding and refined design pieces. Each room has T2 tea sets and organic tea, and toiletries from Floris London, perfumer to The Queen. Cookes Restaurant & Bar is open for all-day dining, or enjoy a signature high tea, which is steeped in rich history at this hotel: the building originally opened as a soda fountain and tea room in the 1930s.

58-60 Queen St, Auckland hotelgrandwindsor.com SO/ Auckland Style: Fashionably avant-garde Setting: Downtown chic Go For: Roof-top cocktails and thriving nightlife SO/ Auckland is a luxurious central-city hotel bursting with colour and quirk. An international luxury lifestyle hotel brand, SO/ is renowned for partnering fashion designers to bring each hotel to life. Kenzo put its stamp on the Mauritius hotel, Lacroix in Bangkok, Viktor & Rolf in Berlin and Karl Lagerfeld in Singapore. For the Auckland iteration, SO/ worked with World’s Benny Castles to create a bold aesthetic that riffs on Auckland’s volcanic setting. The hotel’s five themes are inspired by fire, mist, molten lava and more, so expect lots of red, orange and turquoise in the decor. There is a range of luxury suites with added extras such as private balconies, dining and bar areas and glorious sea views, meaning you won’t want to leave your room. Although there are loads of dining options near the hotel, SO/ has a few of its own, including Harbour Society restaurant, the rooftop bar Hi-So, and lobby bar Mixo. As well as a heated pool and gym, the hotel has an incredible spa, SO/ SPA, offering facial, body and beauty treatments.

Cnr Customs St & Gore St, Auckland so-auckland.com

WINTER IS HERE Experience your own backyard at...

Proudly New Zealand Owned and Operated Visit the STAYNZ page on our website to access our special exclusive rates www.therees.co.nz reservations@therees.co.nz 03 450 1100

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 13

The Hotel Britomart, Auckland Style: Sumptuous and soulful Setting: Bustling Britomart Go for: Eco credentials and impeccable design The Hotel Britomart is due to open on October 1, with 99 guest rooms and five suites offering contemporary and thoughtful accommodation in the bustling downtown precinct of Britomart.

Designed by Cheshire Architects, the hotel has a distinctive brick exterior punctuated by an irregular pattern of windows that nods to the surrounding heritage buildings. Located on the corner facing Takutai Square, The Hotel Britomart is New Zealand’s first 5 Green Star Hotel, and its creation sees the rejuvenation of a whole city block, with new restaurants and shops and historic buildings restored. Inside the hotel, the interior is personal, comfortable and tactile, offering quiet respite from the street. The five top-floor Landing Suites are described as “sumptuous lofts” inspired by luxury lodge The Landing, in the Bay of Islands (see p22-p23). The hotel welcomes two more restaurants to Britomart’s concentrated offering of excellent eateries. Kingi — a new venture from the Orphans Kitchen team — is a few steps from the lobby, and nearby in Excelsior House, renowned chef Michael Meredith is set to open a new restaurant.

29 Galway St, Britomart, Auckland thehotelbritomart.com SkyCity Grand, Auckland Style: Modern and sophisticated Setting: At the heart of it all Go for: Dining and entertainment galore

SkyCity Grand’s location on Federal St in the heart of Auckland City means it’s the ideal location for a staycation filled with dining, shopping and entertainment. The hotel has sophisticated, modern rooms, award-winning East Day Spa, a gym, sauna and lap pool, meaning it’s just as fun to soak in the hotel amenities as it is to explore the city. Opt for a harbour-view room, or treat yourself to a suite, which comes with a separate lounge area, in-room dining and the highest attention to detail. What sets SkyCity Grand apart is its position on one of Auckland’s best dining strips. Federal St is concentrated with some of Auckland’s best restaurants, from Depot, to Federal Delicatessen, Huami and Masu. There’s more within the hotel itself. Italian restaurant Gusto is ideal for aperitivo hour in a cosy armchair or head to dinner at The Grill, a high-end steak house with some of the best mac ‘n’ cheese in the city.

90 Federal St, Auckland central skycityauckland.co.nz

Clockwise, from top left: SO/ Auckland Sofitel; The SkyCity Grand; The Hotel Britomart; The Pullman Rotorua. Inset: Wellington’s Bolton Hotel.

Photos / Jason Oxenham; Andrew Warner; Supplied

Bolton Hotel, Wellington Style: Independent and arty Setting: Business district buzz Go for: A weekend in Wellington Rising 19 floors from the street of the same name, Bolton Hotel is a New Zealand owned and operated hotel. The city’s best shops, cafes and restaurants are on its doorstep, Parliament isn’t far away and neither is the waterfront. The hotel has 139 stylish and comfortable rooms, from studios to one- and two-bedroom suites and most feature views of the Bolton Memorial Park or downtown Wellington.

The suites are set up so you never have to leave, with a separate dining and living area, laundry facilities and a fully equipped kitchen. When you do eventually venture out, the in-house restaurant, Artisan is worth a visit, serving modern New Zealand cuisine in beautiful surroundings.

12 Bolton St, Wellington boltonhotel.co.nz

Pullman, Rotorua Style: Contemporary & comfortable Setting: Rotorua city retreat Go for: Business, pleasure or adventure The opening of the Pullman hotel in Rotorua in January this year signalled the arrival of the first international 5-star hotel in the Bay of Plenty region, an ideal escape for travellers looking to explore this exciting area in luxury confines. In the city centre and moments away from the lakefront, the Pullman is a 130-room hotel with both city and lake views. It offers five accommodation options including superior king rooms,

MEMORABLE HOTEL GRAND WINDSOR

superior twin rooms, deluxe rooms and executive suites. The 50sq m suites on the top floor have 180-degree views, a living room and luxurious freestanding tub. The style is contemporary and comfortable with spacious rooms for relaxation.

Dine at the hotel’s brasserie Barrel & Co Bar and Grill, or enjoy the sophisticated executive lounge, in between adventure sports, of course.

1135 Arawa St, Rotorua pullmanrotorua.com

Continued on p14

2 NIGHTS FOR THE PRICE OF 1 Treat yourself to the refined elegance and art deco glamour of the award-winning 5-star hotel.

A boutique haven in the heart of Auckland city, enjoy 2 nights for the price of 1, with breakfast included.

BOOK TODAY using the code: 241.

58-60 QUEEN ST, AUCKLAND (64) 9 309 9979

www.mgallery.com www.accorhotels.com www.hotelgrandwindsor.com M G A L L E R Y, A C O L L E C T I O N O F M E M O R A B L E H OT E L S

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14 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Hotels

»

Continued from p13

villas are set over two floors, with three bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, plus outdoor terrace.

The villas are light, bright and open with paredback decor and floor-to-ceiling windows allowing the incredible setting to shine. A special feature of The Rees Residences is access to a “luxury travel curator” who is on hand to design your dream stay, making it easy to explore all that Queenstown has to offer.

377 Frankton Rd, Queenstown therees.co.nz

The George, Christchurch Style: Grand elegance Setting: Parkside meets lakeside Go for: Impeccable service Luxury Christchurch hotel The George has received too many awards and accolades to list, but its eight-year run as New Zealand’s Leading Boutique Hotel at the World Travel Awards (2012-2019) is well worth a mention. Next to Hagley Park and the Avon river, The George is a luxury boutique hotel renowned for offering a personalised stay and attentive staff. Its 53 comfortable rooms and suites across five levels are contemporary and elegant, with sumptuous finishings, tasteful decor and local art on the walls. The luxury Park Suites are the “jewel in The George’s crown”, with spacious, contemporary interiors complete with modern entertainment systems. The hotel also offers the awardwinning three-bedroom private villa, The Residence, overlooking the hotel gardens and popular with high-profile guests. Enjoy dinner at the hotel’s restaurant 50 Bistro, or stroll to Christchurch’s dining and cultural precinct, which is mere minutes away.

50 Park Terrace, Christchurch thegeorge.com Residences at The Rees, Queenstown Style: Private lakeside villas Setting: Lapping the shoreline Go for: Mountain views and new adventures Right on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and with its own private jetty and beach to boot, the fivestar Rees Hotel has 60 rooms, 90 apartments and five lakeside private residences, designed to take full advantage of the spectacular views across the

From top: Eichardt’s Private Hotel, The George Hotel; a Rees Hotel Residence.

Photos / Supplied

lake to the Remarkable Mountain range. The Rees Lakeside Residences are separate from the main hotel, which makes them feel like your own private home in a magical setting. The 164sq m

Eichardt’s Private Hotel, Queenstown Style: Queenstown’s grande dame Setting: Premium lakefront Go for: History and style Lakeside in the heart of Queenstown is a majestic hotel with a history dating back to 1859. It was originally a wool shed but the gold rush saw its transformation into a hotel and bar. Today Eichardt’s is a significant local landmark, listed as a Category 2 historic place by the Historic Places Trust. A Queenstown icon, Eichardt’s offers a small selection of accommodation, with seven luxurious Lake View Suites, four Lakefront Apartments, The Residence and The Penthouse, all positioned on the picturesque lakefront. The hotel sets its own standard for luxury accommodation, with stunning interiors designed by New Zealand’s Virginia Fisher. The rooms offer every amenity you would expect in a world-class hotel as well as majestic vistas of Lake Wakatipu. Dine at The Grille by Eichardt’s restaurant, and be sure to spend time at Eichardt’s bar, where you can sink into comfortable sofas next to a roaring fireplace and soak in the ambience of this luxury hotel.

Marine Parade, Queenstown eichardts.com

Boutique accommodation in the heart of Hokitika

Each apartment at the Hokitika Fire Station has its own unique feel but all five are equally welcoming, with thoughtful touches of luxury. Whether you’re looking for a large family apartment or a studio for two, there’s something for every guest. Steeped in local history, this iconic listed building has been lovingly restored and converted into five beautifully styled holiday apartments

www.hokitikafirestation.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 15

SPONSORED CONTENT

Jason Reeves

Auckland’s Coast FM Breakfast host gives us his top picks of things to do in the region

Who knew you could…in Auckland

What I love most about Auckland...

It's close to the water, the restaurants and parks are all brilliant, and with having a young family there are so many places we can go with the kids all within a few minutes of home.

In the space of any given weekend, I can meet friends at The Postman's Leg in Glenfield and soak up live music while having a bite to eat and watching our kids play on the playground there.

Living in Auckland is also a sport-lovers dream — throughout the season you can watch live sport at Eden Park, Mt Smart or North Shore Events Centre.

We live on the Shore and so we love to catch a ferry to Waiheke or the CBD and make an adventure of it.

However, my absolute favourite thing about Auckland is that there's a real energy about the region because there is so much to see and do.

My local hidden gem...

The walk between Milford and Takapuna is awesome. You start by grabbing an ice coffee from the Swiss Cafe & Bakery in Milford (truly — the BEST ice coffees I've ever tasted!) and then it's an easy wander along the beach towards Takapuna with the kids and the dog. There's a pathway all the way so it's easy to work your way around rock pools and the tides, and there's also the famous "Giant chair". It's a chair made from rocks that sits at the base of a castle — and it's iconic. Lots of people get their photo in it, and because my wife grew up on the Shore (and remembers often playing on the chair as a child) I actually proposed to her there.

Where I’d go in Auckland for a daytrip with friends or family...

Omaha beach. We'd leave at sunrise on Saturday and stop at Matakana for the Farmer's Market before heading on to the beach for the rest of the day. The scenery is beautiful, we'd have stocked up on delicious food from the markets and then as the sun sets, we'd head home again. Bliss.

We also love to visit Waiheke Island for the brilliant choice of restaurants like the Oyster Inn, Three Seven Two and Vino Vino for the fantastic views. The locals are also a real highlight, and if you're lucky you might just bump into Sir Graham Henry or Sir Peter Leitch!

See Beauden Barrett in a Blues jersey!? See Dan Carter in a Blues jersey!?

You can visit a working farm! Ambury Farm park in Mangere has a woolshed, milking shed and good tracks and pathways which means it's an easy walk in the "countryside" just a few minutes’ drive from the CBD. And if you’re in the city centre you can catch a ferry that will take you under the Auckland Harbour Bridge and into the sheltered waterways of Auckland’s upper Waitematā Harbour to have lunch at a historic tavern, named The Riverhead.

You can also "meet" the stingray that hangs out around Swashbucklers bar by the Marina. Apparently fishermen feed it when they come in to the dock, so it swims around and gets an easy feed. Legend has it you can see it most days.

Where I’d go on a staycation in Auckland...

Castaways Resort. It overlooks the rugged and stunning West coast beaches, so you can see the most amazing sunsets! It also has a fantastic restaurant and lots of things to do if you like a little adventure (Blow-Karts and archery etc). If relaxing and pampering is more your style, there's a day-spa there too. You can go "glamping" or stay in an "executive chalet" looking out over Kariotahi Beach and it's literally called Find out how you could "Auckland's best kept secret".

win the ultimate Auckland experince at coastonline.co.nz (terms and conditions apply)

travel

16 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Hawke’s Bay

»

Living the high life Jesse Mulligan finds foodie heaven just a 45-minute flight away from Auckland

T

he first thing you must do is book your chef. Before you start sniffing for accommodation, before, even, you commit to flights, you need to look up Paolo Pancotti, perhaps the finest Italian chef I’ve ever come across. He doesn’t work in a three-Michelinstar restaurant (any longer) but lives in Hawke’s Bay, where he cooks a small number of private dinners annually for anyone quick and smart enough to book him in.

How much does food matter to him? Well, he travels with his own salt and pepper mills because he doesn’t trust the peppercorns of strangers.

We nibbled on a first course of charcuterie (multiple meats and cuts, butchered, cured and aged by him) while legendary winemaker Kate Radburnd poured a tasting of the debut chardonnay vintage produced under her own brand. It went particularly well with chef’s take on vitello tonnato, with kingfish in place of the veal.

The wine of Hawke’s Bay has always been

brilliant but lately a couple of “next level” brands have emerged, joining iconic bottles such as Coleraine and Le Sol at the premium end of the market.

Radburnd Cellars is one of them, and if you drink chardonnay, you should seek out this one: a rare clone of the varietal, hand-picked and sorted then coaxed into liquid perfection by one of the most accomplished winemakers of her generation. You won’t taste it on an in-house visit, probably, but cellar-door appointments are available by request (she also does a magnificent syrah, which we drank with a bowl of ricotta gnudi in an intense tomato sauce).

Smith and Sheth is another brand causing a stir at the top end of the market. Their “cellar door” is in Havelock North town centre and if you think you might miss out on some atmosphere by not actually being on the vineyard, well, you need to experience this — New Zea-

Craggy Range Restaurant (top); Bistronomy (above).

Photos / Hawke’s Bay Tourism; Supplied

land’s only wine tasting I’m aware of where you need to book a ticket (the visual content alone took almost two years to create).

If you’re doing proper Hawke’s Bay luxury, you’ll probably be staying on or near a vineyard. Many of the popular spots are on the Hastings side of the district but we were beautifully accommodated at Kiwiesque, on the Napier-Taupo road, where highlights include stunning rural views, home-baking and a fridge full of vintage wines produced on the property, many more than 10 years old.

The hosts offer genuine warmth and local expertise, and one of the buildings has a swimming pool — a rare and welcome bonus in any region hot enough in summer to ripen cabernet sauvignon berries.

If wineries and restaurants aren’t enough to keep you occupied during the day time, consider a day spa and/or round of golf at Cape Kidnappers

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 17

From left: Hawke's Bay-based chef Paolo Pancotti; Kate Radburnd of Hawke's Bay's Radburnd Cellars (inset); Craggy Range Winery;the Mangapapa Hotel (below).

Lodge, one of the famous Robertson properties, offering executive-level hospitality to well-heeled visitors. The Robertsons take their role as kaitiaki seriously, and have invested in a predatorproof fence and extensive trapping around their property so native parrots like kaka and kakariki are a regular sight.

There are all sorts of offroad adventures available to guests but if you’re not staying onsite look up Outfoxed NZ, who offer various hair-raising activities on a nearby coastal farm.

Mangapapa Hotel, the former Watties’ homestead, offers boutique accommodation with plenty of history, and though the spa is only open

to guests you can get a taste of the Mangapapa experience by booking in for high tea, a favourite with locals and anyone else brainstorming ways to enjoy more Hawke’s Bay food and drink outside the standard threemeal-a-day system.

But eventually it’ll be dinner time again and the region has some international-class restaurants worthy of your time.

Craggy Range’s Terroir is my favourite and is overseen by Casey MacDonald, the former executive chef of Melbourne faves such as Cumulus and Supernatural, but now enjoying the more relaxed lifestyle of Hawke’s Bay (well, he says that, but I’ve yet to see him doing anything but

hard work). Black Barn is a solid bistro just around the corner while Napier offers perennial award winner Pacifica and, a more casual but nonetheless excellent option, James Beck’s Bistronomy.

At some point you will return home, hopefully with room for more wine and a square or two of chocolate. Hawke’s Bay has a couple of highend chocolatiers including Silky Oak and Ola Pacifica, whose orange- and coffee-flavoured variants are worth seeking out while you’re in the area.

It truly is a luxury to think that all of this is just a 45-minute flight from Auckland — that, door-to-door, you could be sitting next to an open fire, overlooking a vineyard with a glass of red wine in your hand in the time it would take you to drive to the Coromandel. Nonetheless this part of the country can still feel like a secret — off the beaten track, ignored by international flights even before the current lockdown.

You will find your own reasons to love Hawke’s Bay, but until then you’re welcome to mine.

Hamilton

New Zealand Taupo

Napier

Hawke’s Bay

Checklist

HAWKE’S BAY GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Hawke’s Bay. airnz.co.nz DETAILS hawkesbaynz.com

Amazing history, heritage, nature, landscapes, fishing, wildlife, walks, seafood and much more.

Sign up to our newsletter at www.chathamislands.co.nz and go in the draw to win a box of Premium Chatham Blue Courtesy of Chatham Island Food Co

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18 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Luxury Experiences

»

splash Where to

Make an occasion truly special with these extravagant options, writes Bridget Jones

out

M

aybe you want to treat yourself, celebrate something special, or just be a little fancy. We might not always be a flashy country, but New Zealand certainly does luxury very well — especially when it comes to travel.

Here are some of the most extravagant, luxurious experiences NZ has to offer: The ultimate fly-fishing trip If you want to work for your supper, then hold on to your waterproof pants. Fly fishers, you can explore the remote waters of the South Island with a helicopter and pilot at your disposal all day. Yes, with Fly NZ you and your own private helicopter can zip away when the fish stop biting and you need a new spot to cast off. Travelling by chopper means you can drop into some of New Zealand’s incredible backcountry fishing spots, but don’t worry about finding them on Google Maps — a local guide will help you with all of that stuff. The package includes everything a novice angler might need (or an experienced one might not want to travel with) including a rod, waders, boots, lures and back-country fishing licences, and you’ll have a fisherman’s lunch cooked for you on the riverbank to keep you going throughout the day. Price for one to two anglers starts at $14,200. flynz.co.nz Wellington by air When we imagine jumping in a helicopter to get somewhere fabulous, many of us might think of the South Island’s scenic spots, or maybe flying past the Sky Tower on the way to a Waiheke winery. But don’t overlook sampling Wellington’s sights from the air — especially if there’s a gourmet meal at the end of it. GCH Aviation will whisk you away from Wellington’s hustle and bustle and fly, by helicopter, over the city, along the Cook Strait coastline, Rimutaka Mountain Range, and Orongorongo Valley before arriving at Palliser Bay, home to country estate Wharekauhau Lodge. Here, you will enjoy a stunning five-course lunch, with views to match.

Priced from $645pp (minimum of four). gchaviation.com/scenic-flights/wellington

Wharekauhau Lodge in Palliser Bay. Photo / Supplied

Heli-Skiing adventure If you’ve been itching to hit the slopes but don’t feel like sharing the chairlift, have you considered hitching a ride in a helicopter for your next ski trip? Heli-skiing offers more flexibility and freedom for snow bunnies, and when you charter a helicopter with Harris Mountains Heli-Ski, they say there are no limits (weather and flying conditions aside, of course). With your very own chopper for the day — or two hours of flight time — you can set your own pace on the southern ski fields, skipping from mountain to mountain, or soaking up the conditions in one prime spot.

Private charters are priced at $9395 for one group (up to four people) and two hours’ flight time from Queenstown, Wānaka or Aoraki/Mount Cook. heliski.co.nz

Indulge in a private cruise through the Marlborough Sounds. Be treated to gourmet food and wine experiences, and stay in luxury at a lodge on the waters Head to MarlboroughNZ.com/luxury/ to find out more edge or among the vines

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 19

Wine at altitude Does wine taste better at altitude? Scientifically I couldn’t tell you, but a view sure makes a nice addition.

With Heliview and Mt Michael Wines in Cromwell, you can put the theory to the test, zooming up to the top of Mt Michael itself — 1163m to be precise — to sample a tasting platter and the vineyard’s finest with winemaker Jody Pagey.

While you learn the difference between pinot gris, pinot rose, and pinot noir, soak up the 360-degree view of the Gibbston Valley, Bannockburn, Lowburn, across the lake to Bendigo and down to Wānaka before jumping back in the helicopter and back to real life. Priced from $1499 for up to three passengers. heliview.co.nz Star-gazing in style In the middle of a forest, next to Lake Pūkaki, South Canterbury, you can tour the universe from the comfort of a cellar door. You’ll be welcomed to Pūkaki Wine Cellar & Observatory with nibbles, and a glass of wine or a tot of whisky from their curated collection, before moving through to the observatory for a personalised viewing experience, where the gold-level Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve — one of the darkest skies in the world, with no pesky light pollution — is yours to explore.

Using a combination of the onsite refractor telescope, astrophotography (if you bring your own camera) and the naked eye, see moons, nebulae and planets across the Milky Way. Heck, even Oprah has visited to gaze across the galaxy.

Enjoy this experience at the bargain price of $120pp for a minimum of four people.

Or go to the Mt Cook Retreat website to win a luxury getaway, including two nights’ accommodation, gourmet meals, spa treatments and a stargazing experience. You’ll need to get in quick, entries close on Monday, July 5. mtcookretreat.nz

Hit the road There is absolutely no better way to see the beauty of New Zealand than by just getting in the car and driving. In almost the blink of an eye, you could be cruising down the coast, winding through roads with native bush either side, or driving through the Mars-like landscape that lines the Desert Road. How about making that vehicle you jump in a glorious, sleek sports car? Hiring a luxury car for a classic Kiwi road trip has to be one of the most extravagantly wonderful things you could do; imagine driving the mysterious Forgotten Highway in a Maserati Gran Turismo Sport (which you can hire for $850 a day) or down the East Cape behind the wheel of a Jaguar F-Type convertible ($625 a day).

Luxury Car Rental New Zealand has a selection of fancy rides you can hire for the day — or longer — from pick-up locations around the country. luxurycarrentalsnewzealand.co.nz Set sail for paradise Maybe it’s the sea, rather than the sky or land, that floats your boat, and who could blame you — we all know New Zealand has some of the most sublime coastline you could ever hope to find.

Imagine exploring Abel Tasman National Park, Nelson, D’Urville Island and of course, the Marlborough Sounds, from the comfort of your own luxury catamaran. Whether you want to be at sea for a few days, weeks, or more, Abel Tasman Sailing Adventures’ Te Harinui will be your home away from home, as well as your transport and activity. Explore the magical spots in the region — many are boat access only — with your own private tour guide (and skipper) and choose between self-catering (with all that seafood you can catch during the day) or letting someone else do the hard work. The Luxury Stay Sailing Holiday package starts at $2800 a day. sailingadventures.co.nz

By sea, by air, by land — the world is your oyster.

Photos/ Doug Sherring; Greg Bowker; Supplied

newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

M

ak e ne an w a Ap ppo i ar tm ntm 09 en e 47 nt S t to 6 h 42 ow vie 20 ho w o m es ur

Retirement Lifestyle PREMIER

The Country Club Huapai offers a range of beautiful 2 and 3 bedroom villas, apartments with world class facilities and amenities, in the heart of Auckland’s wine country. The stunning apartment showhomes are now open for viewing via appointment, designed to provide independent living of exceptional quality.

Discover a new standard in retirement living.

23 Vintry Drive, Huapai 0810 09 476 4220 | COUNTRYCLUBHUAPAI.CO.NZ

travel

20 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Wellness

»

Aro Ha is environmentally friendly and almost entirely self-sustaining.

Photo / Supplied

Love yourself

Aro Ha wellness retreat gives Kerre McIvor respite from bad habits and the tools to live a healthier life

A

s I sat in front of a roaring log fire alongside 11 strangers, listening to a charming American explain how we could all transform our lives over the next six days, I felt like a character in a bestselling novel.

Certainly as each of us sipped our herbal tea and revealed the reasons we’d chosen to come to Aro Ha wellness retreat in Glenorchy, there was great material for a writer to work with.

Some of us were burnt out, professionally and emotionally. Others had ended relationships. One woman was about to have a significant birthday and most of us had allowed bad habits to creep into our lives and wanted to reset and recalibrate. All of us wanted to achieve more calm in our busy lives and we were hoping Aro Ha could provide us with the answers.

We’d all invested a great deal to be there. Aro Ha is a luxury retreat and charges accordingly.

Despite the fact that I can spend twice the amount travelling to Europe to spend time with the grandchildren, I found it difficult to justify spending money on self-improvement.

In the end, I reasoned that we’d sold the house just before lockdown and having invested in property, surely I could spend a portion of the proceeds investing in myself. I probably have 20 years left of active living — I want to make the most of them.

Transplanted Americans Damian Chaparro and Chris Madison spent three years creating Aro Ha, which is environmentally friendly and almost entirely self-sustaining, with the aim of fostering wellness in their guests. Designed to regenerate the body and mind, Aro Ha’s programmes are based on research that suggests we

South Island

Queenstown

Glenorchy Lake Wakatipu Te Anau

SH6

SH9 4

Checklist ARO HA

DETAILS A six day/five night Revive and Thrive retreat is priced from $5575. Retreats run year-round. aro-ha.com

can all transform our physical and emotional health — for the better — through our daily habits.

The six-day, five-night retreat began with us being weighed and measured, ample evidence for me that I needed to make changes to my lifestyle. Our bloods and blood pressure were taken and then it was back to the main lodge for dinner and the fireside chat. Meals are plant-based and many of the plants and herbs are grown on the property.

I confess. I’ve scoffed at vegans in the past but our meals were delicious and filling.

Beetroot ravioli with a nut cheese filling, for example. Amazing. Who knew?

The other women — and one man — on the retreat seemed lovely humans. They also seemed normal, which was reassuring. I think I’d assumed everyone would be earnest. Nice but humourless and existing in a higher spiritual realm. But when most of them confessed they hadn’t given up caffeine or alcohol as recommended in the week prior to our retreat, and some had enjoyed one last glass of wine at lunch before they began the six-day cleanse, I knew I was among my own kind.

The rooms are comfortable without being sumptuous, with separate bedrooms connected by a shower and bathroom. You don’t actually spend that much time in your room. With yoga classes morning and night, three-hour hikes along the beautiful trails in the immediate vicinity, a spa pool overlooking Lake Wakatipu and the snow-capped mountain ranges and daily massages, I found myself leaving my room at 6am and not returning till 9pm. I also found myself experiencing and enjoying activities I would never have entertained before the retreat.

“I don’t really like yoga,” I said to Chris, a

retreat leader. He’s a handsome, clear-skinned, bright-eyed, gentle young man and a perfect advertisement for the lifestyle the retreat promotes.

Manfully, he didn’t ask me why I’d booked in for a yoga retreat if I didn’t like yoga. Instead he suggested I think of it as stretching, rather than yoga. And with that shift in mindset, I really enjoyed the stretching we did morning and night.

I enjoyed hiking the trails around the property.

I enjoyed the 18 hours of silence we were “invited” to experience. I even enjoyed the spa therapy session run by Fraser, another brighteyed, handsome, knowledgeable retreat leader.

This involved being broiled in the sauna for half an hour, then choosing to submerge yourself in an icy pool for three minutes. The only reason I was able to endure this and get some satisfaction from it was by being part of the group. Nobody wanted to be the first to throw in the literal and metaphorical towel and thus, we all succeeded.

The sheer beauty of the natural surroundings and the dedication of the staff are what make Aro Ha truly special. It really is a luxury to be able to switch off from the outside world and immerse yourself in an experience designed to offer you an alternative way of thinking and an alternative way of treating your body.

I haven’t transformed into a meditating, yogapractising vegan, but that wasn’t what Aro Ha promised. We were told we would get the tools to enable us to live healthier, more fulfilling lives and that’s what Aro Ha gave us. The retreat also gave us the desire to do better and be better. How long that lasts is anyone’s guess, but against all my expectations, I absolutely loved it. I invested in myself and it was worth it.

For more New Zealand holiday inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

Lismore House

Located in the town of Martinborough; Lismore House is a beautiful 5 bedroom colonial style property nestled in Its own private 14 acre vineyard.

Ranked #1 luxury Wairarapa home stay by bookabach; Lismore House is the perfect place for vacations, reunions, bridal accommodation and weddings both big and small.

www.lismore.co.nz

For booking enquiries: P: 022 306 3319 | E team@lismore.co.nz

@chasewildphotos

@chasewildphotos

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 21

Ride the West Coast Wilderness Trail with these awesome Winter deals Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never been a better time to book your trip to the West Coast Wilderness Trail.

This easy-intermediate trail spans over 120km from Greymouth to Ross. Taking in stunnning ocean, bush and mountain landscapes, it is suitable for all riders.

Book now and save up to $400pp on multi-day, all inclusive packages.

Find great deals and book your trip:

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WILDERNESSTRAIL.NZ

travel

22 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Northland

»

Paradise

The Landing has immaculately landscaped grounds. Photo / Kendall Hill

FOUND On a Northland peninsula is an ‘Airbnb for billionaires’ where the only rules are made by guests, writes Kendall Hill

T

he transfer from Kerikeri airport by chauffeur-driven Range Rover feels luxuriously on point until my driver, The Landing’s glamorous guest services manager Laura Moreno, casually mentions that most guests arrive by helicopter.

Her tone’s not sniffy; it’s just an observation.

As I’m about to find out, they don’t do sniffy at The Landing. I’ll be treated just as royally as any actual royal. Or ex-president, for that matter.

This 400ha private estate in the Bay of Islands was — and remains — a working sheep-and-cattle farm. But today it also operates as a sort of Airbnb for billionaires, with an award-winning onsite winery and a world of water sports waiting by the jetty.

Kiwi-American investor and property developer Peter Cooper bought this waterfront slice of the Purerua Peninsula in 1999 and opened the site to select friends to build their fantasy coastal getaways.

Currently there are four properties for holiday rental. The centrepiece is Cooper’s six-bedroom

citadel, perfumed by gardenias and adorned with his unsurpassed private collection of Māori art and artefacts (“It’s magical here!” former US president Barack Obama noted in the guestbook after his stay in March 2018).

The four-bedroom Gabriel Residence occupies a neighbouring hillside. There is also The Boathouse, a breezy two-bedroom villa beside Wairoa Bay with a carved mahogany bath which, I’m reliably informed, cost $30,000.

And lastly, there’s the strikingly modernist, three-bedroom Vineyard Villa, where I’m staying. Cradled in a trim valley of vines and meadows, its glass walls slide away to immerse guests in the dazzling beauty of their surroundings.

All the accommodation is surrounded by immaculately landscaped grounds. Soft rolling hills upholstered in velvet lawns or stitched with grapevines ease gracefully into the ocean.

Norfolk pines and pōhutukawa, hand-sculpted by grounds staff, punctuate the property. Wetlands of waving grasses and corridors of endemic forest harbour a rich array of birdlife including a

NORTHLAND

Bay of Islands Kaitaia

Northland

Whangarei

Auckland

Checklist

THE LANDING DETAILS Nightly rates from $1500 per night, with a three night minimum stay, up to $14,500 per night for the Cooper Residence. Tariffs include wine cellar, kiwi tours, vineyard tour, historical tour, sightseeing by boat, gym, tennis and more. luxurylodgesofnz.co. nz, thelandingnz.com

flourishing kiwi colony (more on which later).

Moreno welcomes me to the Vineyard Villa with a glass of estate rosé and an overview of house rules. “You can do whatever you like at The Landing,” she assures me. “The guests make the rules. They tell us what time they want dinner and what time they want breakfast and how much input they want from us.”

The property attracts a particular type of person, says Moreno, who formerly worked on private jets, serving British royals including Princess Diana and Prince William. “If guests want privacy and want to stay off the radar, it’s a no-brainer. They stay here.”

Other residences might be grander or closer to the sea but, for me, the Vineyard Villa is the Goldilocks option. Dramatically anchored to the Earth by a monumental wall of stones, it is a striking building of timber, glass and light.

The three bedrooms are tucked downstairs in a garden bunker of rosemary hedges, olive and citrus trees. Interiors are equipped with everything from a coffee machine to a full catering kitchen, which is academic because I will never lift a finger.

Executive chef Jacqueline Smith prepares all my meals, although she seems to be under the impression she is catering for a family of four rather than one man. Using The Landing’s own

EXPERIENCES

Unique biking and hiking tours

Cyclefrom from the Cycle East Beautiful BayCoast of Islands to West to the Majestic Hokianga Harbour

All inclusive Boutique tours AllTO inclusive URS I Boutique N CLUD Etours : • Quality accommodation

TO• URS IN CLUD Fully supported tourE:

••Quality accommodation Great food!

All meals – • Fully supported breakfast, lunch andtour dinner • Delicious Allthe meals • All transfersfood! during tour • All transfers as in well luxury and ferry fares asmini ferrybus fares • Top quality E-bikes

0800 245 364 www.northlandexperiences.co.nz

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 23

organic produce and olive oil, she unveils a banquet across the kitchen bench of horopitoseasoned beef, line-caught bluenose hooked straight from the bay and a medley of attractive vegetables and salads.

Views of The Boathouse and, inset, The Purerua Peninsula. Photos / Keiran Scott; Kendall Hill

Next morning she greets me with a beautiful bowl of granola, fresh fruits and local Greek yoghurt, and later delivers sesame-speckled eggs with potato hash and Mahoe feta, showered in petals. All of which I happily consume on the sun-drenched deck while gazing across chardonnay vines to the twinkling sea.

All the accommodation captures sweeping views of the peninsula and, in the centre of the bay, Motuapo Island, where the Māori chief Te Pahi erected the first European-style house in New Zealand.

Beside it lies Roimata (Tears) Island, once used as a prison.

Maori bloodlines run indelibly deep and powerful here. Skipper Brett Michalick fills in the site’s history while we’re out on The Landing’s charter vessel, Iti Rangi.

The hill just beyond my villa was once home to the prosperous Te Puna settlement, “the first unofficial capital of New Zealand”. Around 1000 Māori lived here and, in the early 19th century it became a major trading post between Māori and British visitors.

He stops beside Rangihoua Bay to point out the site of New Zealand’s first European settlement. Europeans and Māori gathered here for the country’s first church service in 1814.

“This is the landing place for both of the races, Māori and Pākehā, who called New Zealand home,” Michalick says.

The Iti Rangi outing is included for all guests as is a quaffing session with wine manager Keith

Barker. The Landing’s 9.5ha of vines produce elegant chardonnays and syrahs, as well as pinot gris and a crisp, wild-ferment rosé. The tasting takes place in my villa but a new $3 million winery and cellar door has just opened to offer more structured wine appreciations.

Much as I love wine, the highlight of my inhouse experiences is a torch-lit kiwi hunt at night, when the grounds come alive with New Zealand’s national bird. There are no predators on the peninsula so birds thrive and sightings are guaranteed, says lawns master and kiwi guide Dane Hawker. “I’ve never gone out with guests and not seen one.”

In two hours we spot eight kiwi, often loping into the undergrowth like cartoon villains.

Hawker’s underwhelmed by the tally but I’m stoked. I thought it was near-impossible to see kiwi in the wild but here they run amok. At night, lovesick males cry into the darkness outside my windows.

Elsewhere on the property there are biking and tramping trails, kayaking and swimming spots, and six empty beaches. There’s deep-sea and big-game fishing aboard The Landing’s luxury fishing yacht Ata Rangi, or guests might pop into Paihia or Russell for lunch.

But honestly, when you’ve arrived at The Landing, there’s very little desire to go anywhere else. Paradise found.

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

Stay one night in paradise for free On a spectacular coastal peninsula in the Bay of Islands, where kiwi roam through vineyards and the native forest rings with birdsong, you’ll discover the magic hideaway of The Landing. This winter, stay an extra night free when you book two nights in one of our four luxurious Residences.

Overlooking the sparkling Bay of Islands harbour, The Landing is a unique getaway filled with everything that makes Aotearoa New Zealand special: pristine beaches, native bush where you can encounter kiwi face-to-face, an award-winning boutique winery and a private vessel for marine adventures. Nightly rates from $1500 per person, three-night minimum stay. T&Cs apply.

PLEASE CONTACT US

info@thelandingnz.com 09 300 3685 www.thelandingnz.com

travel

24 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

»

lap of

GO NZ: Lodges

In New Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, your every whim will be gloriously satisfied. Maggie Wicks explores some of our finest

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 25

EAGLES NEST, BAY OF ISLANDS How does a private chef sound? What about a butler? A personal trainer? A spa therapist? How about a tattoo artist? Your wish is their command at Eagles Nest, a clifftop peninsula property where guests get an entire villa to themselves.

The smallest villa offers one bedroom and two bathrooms. The largest? Prepare yourself for eight bedrooms (all with en suite), a butler, private beach, wine cellar, a 25m pool and the use of a Porsche. Every villa has a private pool, and complimentary champagne on arrival.

The staff will arrange any activity you’re interested in — be it wine tasting, sky-diving, horse-trekking or a foodie tour of the region. There is also a kiwi care programme onsite, and little blue penguins visit the beaches. But there’s really no reason to leave the property, with views of the sea and skies that stretch forever.

From $1550 per night. eaglesnest.co.nz HELENA BAY, NORTHLAND In the winterless north, lies Helena Bay — a luxurious six-star lodge with just five double rooms, set among private beaches and pristine coves, overlooking the sea. You’ll find binoculars on hand to view any visiting wildlife, such as whales, birds and dolphins.

Archaeologists have found the remains of five pā sites on this historic plot of land, and the area was later used by Croatian families to produce wine. The property was eventually cleared for farming, before being bought by the current owners in 2007.

Since then the land has been used for lowerintensity farming, including wagyu beef breeding, and the pine forest is used as a carbon sink rather than for production.

The beautiful central lodge is extensive — you could enjoy breakfast by the pool, lunch in the library and dine in front of the fire or al fresco overlooking the ocean.

The world’s largest sea cave is 20km away across the water at the Poor Knights Islands, and diving trips to see stingrays, orca and myriad fish can be arranged. Outside the marine reserve, there’s excellent fishing to be had — guests can cast from the property’s pontoon, or off the jetty, with fishing equipment on hand.

From $1560 per night. helenabay.com DELAMORE LODGE, WAIHEKE Holiday like the rich and famous at Delamore on Waiheke, where Madonna, Justin Bieber and Alanis Morissette are rumoured to have stayed.

The glitz and glam of the guests belies the environment here however — Delamore is a peaceful and private escape, atop a cliff overlooking the Hauraki Gulf, but only a fiveminute drive from the ferry terminal.

This is a small boutique hotel and, as such, guests are treated to personalised service — the wine and snacks are always at hand. There are only a handful of rooms, so you will be known by name immediately.

Guests approach from the back of the property and are then led through to a wide deck, and the hotel’s Instagram-famous pool — an infinity-style on the very edge of the property. Further down the hill are fruit trees and garden walks for exploring.

Each evening, guests gather on the balcony to enjoy canapes and pre-dinner drinks together.

Then in the evening, enjoy a sherry in the lounge, curl up with a book in the library, or take a window seat in the restaurant, and gaze over the incredible view of the Hauraki Gulf as you dine on

Coromandel oysters, in-season produce and local wine.

From $990 per night. delamore.com TREETOPS LODGE, ROTORUA Cosiness doesn’t usually come with this kind of grandeur. On the edge of Rotorua, on the edge of a forest, on the edge of nowhere, you’ll find a warm hearth, a comfortable sofa, a stack of books and a room full of games. Plus a Goldie, an open decanter and a full estate to make use of.

This is Treetops, a hunting lodge-style hotel that is the epitome of luxury winter retreat. The property is set on a 1000ha of native bush, and is criss-crossed by streams and bush walks. The estate is there to be explored — there are trout in the rivers and deer roam the property — don’t be surprised to see one wandering past your window in the quiet evenings. The lodge will pack you a picnic if you want to explore for the day, or choose from any number of rambles — from a 15-minute stroll to see the glow worms to a 45-minute walk to the unmissable Bridal Veil Falls waterfall. After a walk through thick bush it appears, seemingly out of nowhere, crashing 50m down the mountainside.

Other options include fishing, horse-riding, a Māori food trail and gathering expedition, and cooking classes. If you prefer to hang out near the lodge, there are reading rooms, a billiards table, and the forest spa, with massage, beauty treatments, and bush-side hot tubs.

The main lodge decor is hunting style — with antlers and beasts aplenty, thick rugs and heavy coffee-table books to peruse over a welcoming drink. And the restaurant serves up local fare — trout and deer are popular choices, as well as other ingredients grown or foraged from the property.

From $1195 per night. treetops.co.nz

Continued on p26

The Rahimoana villa at Eagles Nest. Photo / Supplied

travel

24 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

»

lap of

GO NZ: Lodges

In New Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, your every whim will be gloriously satisfied. Maggie Wicks explores some of our finest

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 25

EAGLES NEST, BAY OF ISLANDS How does a private chef sound? What about a butler? A personal trainer? A spa therapist? How about a tattoo artist? Your wish is their command at Eagles Nest, a clifftop peninsula property where guests get an entire villa to themselves.

The smallest villa offers one bedroom and two bathrooms. The largest? Prepare yourself for eight bedrooms (all with en suite), a butler, private beach, wine cellar, a 25m pool and the use of a Porsche. Every villa has a private pool, and complimentary champagne on arrival.

The staff will arrange any activity you’re interested in — be it wine tasting, sky-diving, horse-trekking or a foodie tour of the region. There is also a kiwi care programme onsite, and little blue penguins visit the beaches. But there’s really no reason to leave the property, with views of the sea and skies that stretch forever.

From $1550 per night. eaglesnest.co.nz HELENA BAY, NORTHLAND In the winterless north, lies Helena Bay — a luxurious six-star lodge with just five double rooms, set among private beaches and pristine coves, overlooking the sea. You’ll find binoculars on hand to view any visiting wildlife, such as whales, birds and dolphins.

Archaeologists have found the remains of five pā sites on this historic plot of land, and the area was later used by Croatian families to produce wine. The property was eventually cleared for farming, before being bought by the current owners in 2007.

Since then the land has been used for lowerintensity farming, including wagyu beef breeding, and the pine forest is used as a carbon sink rather than for production.

The beautiful central lodge is extensive — you could enjoy breakfast by the pool, lunch in the library and dine in front of the fire or al fresco overlooking the ocean.

The world’s largest sea cave is 20km away across the water at the Poor Knights Islands, and diving trips to see stingrays, orca and myriad fish can be arranged. Outside the marine reserve, there’s excellent fishing to be had — guests can cast from the property’s pontoon, or off the jetty, with fishing equipment on hand.

From $1560 per night. helenabay.com DELAMORE LODGE, WAIHEKE Holiday like the rich and famous at Delamore on Waiheke, where Madonna, Justin Bieber and Alanis Morissette are rumoured to have stayed.

The glitz and glam of the guests belies the environment here however — Delamore is a peaceful and private escape, atop a cliff overlooking the Hauraki Gulf, but only a fiveminute drive from the ferry terminal.

This is a small boutique hotel and, as such, guests are treated to personalised service — the wine and snacks are always at hand. There are only a handful of rooms, so you will be known by name immediately.

Guests approach from the back of the property and are then led through to a wide deck, and the hotel’s Instagram-famous pool — an infinity-style on the very edge of the property. Further down the hill are fruit trees and garden walks for exploring.

Each evening, guests gather on the balcony to enjoy canapes and pre-dinner drinks together.

Then in the evening, enjoy a sherry in the lounge, curl up with a book in the library, or take a window seat in the restaurant, and gaze over the incredible view of the Hauraki Gulf as you dine on

Coromandel oysters, in-season produce and local wine.

From $990 per night. delamore.com TREETOPS LODGE, ROTORUA Cosiness doesn’t usually come with this kind of grandeur. On the edge of Rotorua, on the edge of a forest, on the edge of nowhere, you’ll find a warm hearth, a comfortable sofa, a stack of books and a room full of games. Plus a Goldie, an open decanter and a full estate to make use of.

This is Treetops, a hunting lodge-style hotel that is the epitome of luxury winter retreat. The property is set on a 1000ha of native bush, and is criss-crossed by streams and bush walks. The estate is there to be explored — there are trout in the rivers and deer roam the property — don’t be surprised to see one wandering past your window in the quiet evenings. The lodge will pack you a picnic if you want to explore for the day, or choose from any number of rambles — from a 15-minute stroll to see the glow worms to a 45-minute walk to the unmissable Bridal Veil Falls waterfall. After a walk through thick bush it appears, seemingly out of nowhere, crashing 50m down the mountainside.

Other options include fishing, horse-riding, a Māori food trail and gathering expedition, and cooking classes. If you prefer to hang out near the lodge, there are reading rooms, a billiards table, and the forest spa, with massage, beauty treatments, and bush-side hot tubs.

The main lodge decor is hunting style — with antlers and beasts aplenty, thick rugs and heavy coffee-table books to peruse over a welcoming drink. And the restaurant serves up local fare — trout and deer are popular choices, as well as other ingredients grown or foraged from the property.

From $1195 per night. treetops.co.nz

Continued on p26

The Rahimoana villa at Eagles Nest. Photo / Supplied

travel

26 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Lodges

»

Continued from p25 WHAREKAUHAU, PALLISER BAY Live like royalty at Wharekauhau Country Estate.

Built on one of the country’s oldest working sheep stations, at the foot of the Rimutaka Ranges, this luxurious lodge is a celebration of New Zealand’s farming history. It’s also a favourite with royalty — the estate was famously used by William, Kate and George on their royal tour in 2014, and the king and queen of Denmark in 2018. James Cameron lives next door.

The lodge is a 90-minute drive from Wellington, nestled between the mountains, gorges and the coastline. This is a space for outdoorsy types — during the day guests can explore the gardens, take a quad-bike farm tour, or hike on Mt Wharekauhau, and you’ll find the lodge entranceway lined with gumboots.

At night, the formality steps up in the dining room, with a farm-to-table menu, and a worldclass wine cellar. There are also private dining room options.

Wharekauhau is also a perfect spot for families — kids are encouraged to get out on to the farm to experience life here. They can collect the eggs from the chicken hutch, cook with the lodge chefs, or try clay-shooting as a family.

From $1093 per night. wharekauhau.co.nz

BAY OF MANY COVES, MARLBOROUGH With entry only by boat or air (a 20-minute helicopter flight from Wellington), the approach to Bay of Many Coves is the beginning of your luxury experience. The Marlborough Sounds is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful spots — ancient river valleys that have filled with the ocean create an epic landscape of curves and corners and spots that can be discovered only from the water.

There are dolphin-watching experiences, seafood cruises, plus the Queen Charlotte Track is nearby, and can be walked in short bursts if you don’t fancy taking on the entire five-day, 72km walk.

You’ll be collected from the private jetty and given a tour of the grounds, before settling in to your room, all 11 of which are over the water.

There is a cafe as well as a fine-dining restaurant, a cedar hot tub for six, and a spa onsite.

The night skies are a tapestry of stars, and by day it’d be blissfully quiet if it weren’t for all those native birds singing away like they own the place. Heaven.

Enquire for pricing. bayofmanycoves.co.nz SPLIT APPLE RETREAT, ABEL TASMAN In New Zealand’s sunniest region you’ll find Split Apple Retreat, which sits atop a peninsula overlooking Abel Tasman.

Run by a doctor and a chef, Split Apple’s focus is strongly on wellness — the lodge offers a

From top: Helena Bay; Delamore Lodge, Waiheke Island; Wharekauhau Lodge. Photos / Supplied

“Falcon Brae” Villa is perched on a hilltop high above Stonefly Lodge, with spectacular 360 degree views over the surrounding mountains and the majestic Motueka River below. The luxury, exclusive use, Villa style accommodation is 720sm in size located on 350acres, with 18km of bush walks and central to 3 national parks.

Only 50min drive from Nelson and Abel Tasman. www.falconbraevilla.co.nz

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 27

Treetops, Rotorua (left); Below: Bay of Many Coves; Split Apple Retreat; Stonefly Lodge, Nelson (inset). Photos / Supplied

saltwater infinity pool, private beaches and bush walks, as well as massages, acupuncture, yoga sessions and meditation. There is a Japanese onsen hot bath, as well as saunas to enjoy.

The Asian-Mediterranean menu is personalised for each guest according to their needs and goals, and cooking lessons are offered.

On the border of the Abel Tasman National Park, guests can hike, kayak, fish or sail, and a helicopter can be arranged for private picnics at beaches that are inaccessible by foot. Closer to home, guests can enjoy cooking classes, calligraphy lessons, and traditional Japanese tea ceremonies.

There are just three suites available, each quite different in design — facilities include Japanese granite baths, private decks, and lounge areas. Children under 12 will have to stay at home.

From $1050 per night. splitapple.com

April, and you don’t need to have any experience to sign up — novices can take casting lessons, and pros can be guided into the back country to a secret spot.

Out of fishing season, there are the national parks to explore, cycle trails, sea kayaking, hiking and wine and food tours.

Guests can stay in the main natural stone and timber lodge, with its grand entrance hall, huge roaring fire and deep leather sofas, or hire Falcon Brae, a large villa which accommodates 10. Both the lodge and the villa are off the grid, self-sufficient for power and water, and the hotel has won awards for its environmental and sustainability initiatives.

From $695pp, per night. stoneflylodge.co.nz

STONEFLY LODGE, NELSON A luxury lodge with some of the best fly fishing in the country. At Stonefly, the focus is on the great outdoors. The lodge is between Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes national parks, and there is a host of nearby rivers to choose. The fishing season opens in October and runs through to

Continued on p28

Marlborough Sounds Get-Away Package Get up close and personal with the best of the Marlborough Sounds on this 3 night escape to the wonderful luxury, five star, Bay of Many Coves Resort. This package includes three nights’ accommodation in a luxury one bedroom apartment, gourmet breakfast each morning, an elegant 3 course dinner on your first two evenings followed by a 7 course degustation with wine match on your third evening.

Includes scheduled water taxi transfer from Picton.

Package is priced at

2,950

$

PER COUPLE

Book direct at enquiries@bayofmanycoves.co.nz or call 03 579 9771 | www.bayofmanycoves.co.nz

travel

28 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Lodges

» Continued from p27 Hāpuku Lodge, Kaikōura (left); Right: Annandale Homestead; Blanket Bay at dusk.

HĀPUKU LODGE, KAIKŌURA There is a strong environmental bent at this remote, peaceful and architecturally interesting New Zealand-owned property, set on a deer farm — the lodge contains furniture handmade from salvaged wood, the majority of produce is locally sourced, and a tree is planted for every guest.

The tree houses are cabins on stilts, which sit above a mānuka grove, overlooking the property.

Behind the cabins are the beautiful Kaikōura Seaward Mountains, and ahead is the ocean.

The vibe is more relaxed here — expect friendly unpretentious service as you enjoy the lodge and surrounds.

Guests can help to pick olives, enjoy a massage, take on the local mountain bike trails, or surf at the famed Mangamaunu break.

At dinner, enjoy a wine list that comes primarily from small independent wineries, as well as the famed Kaikōura crayfish, the estate’s free-range chickens, and produce from the lodge gardens.

From $783 per night. hapukulodge. com

chandelier. Guests gather here each evening to chat and enjoy a drink before dinner.

On the doorstep you’ll find jet rides, hiking, canoe trips, bungee jumping, heli-skiing and trips to Milford Sound. If the weather outside is frightful, retreat to the spa for massage and treatments, or the games room, with its pool table, darts board, board games and video library, and a stocked bar.

From $1010 per night. blanketbay.com MINARET STATION, WĀNAKA You possibly can’t get further away from it all than at Minaret Station, New Zealand’s most remote hotel. There are no roads leading in — instead guests must take a helicopter from Queenstown or Wānaka, and fly over Otago at 3000m. The chopper will then drop you just metres from your cabin.

In this remote glacial valley, 900m above Lake Wanaka, you’ll find four simple but luxurious cabins, appointed with sheepskins and private hot tubs, and a shared central dining room and lounge.

ANNANDALE, BANKS PENINSULA At Annandale, they promise “gumboot luxury” (just make sure you bring your Hunters, or Red Bands at least). Here, guests have exclusive use of their villa, homestead or cottage (or the stables, which is a two-bedroom luxury loft apartment), so your retreat is entirely private.

Choose Scrubby Bay to enjoy a private bay surrounded by the hills of the Banks Peninsula, and space for a party of 14. At Seascape, there is room for just two — this is the romantic option, with an outdoor fireplace and spa, in a beautiful room set directly into the tussock hillside.

Annandale has been a working farm since 1843 — 1600ha skim the coast, and it is home to thousands of beef cattle and sheep. Guests can roam the farm freely (always remembering to shut the gate behind them, of course), take cooking classes that teach the property’s farm-to-table philosophy, or take the 30-minute drive to explore the picturesque French settlement of Akaroa.

From $1195 per night. annandale. com BLANKET BAY, GLENORCHY Could there be a lovelier spot than on the shores of Lake Wakatipu? This stone and timber lodge features open log fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling lakeside windows from which to enjoy the view of one of New Zealand’s most serene spots. Central to the lodge is the great room, a cavernous space with 9m-high ceilings, and a dramatic central antler

The lodge is off-grid — the water comes from the alpine waterfall behind it, and power is hydroelectric. The bar is open — help yourself to a G&T or wine, then take a place on the sofa in front of the fire.

Guests come here to experience the sport —

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 29

the lodge offers heli-biking, skiing and hunting — and to get away from it all. A private guide, as well as all meals and drinks, are included in the price of your stay, so take advantage with a guided walk across the land.

After a day’s adventure, the lodge’s focus is food. Guests dine together around a shared table — venison from the land, vegetables from nearby Wānaka. Then stargazing and scotch after sunset.

From $2950 per night, plus helicopter transfer fee. minaretstation.com THE LINDIS, AHURIRI VALLEY, CANTERBURY The combination of a spectacular setting, and spectacular architecture are what make The Lindis so incredible. Lying smooth and flat in the landscape like the perfect river skimming pebble, The Lindis blends with its surroundings, then brings the land indoors with natural Bluestone and timber interiors.

The Ahuriri River runs past the lodge, and provides opportunity for brown and rainbow trout fishing. There are stables onsite for horse riders, as well as e-bikes and buggy tours. After dinner, the night sky offers tremendous star-gazing opportunities in this light pollution-free area, as staff take guests outside to learn about the stars and constellations above.

There are five guest rooms inside the lodge, and three glass pods set slightly away for privacy and views of the countryside and night sky, each with its own hot tub.

Dinner and breakfast are included in your stay, as well as pre-dinner drinks and canapes.

Almost everything is sourced locally, including locally foraged porcini mushrooms, wild Fiordland venison, Te Mana lamb, Aoraki salmon and Southland albacore tuna.

From $770pp, per night. thelindisgroup.com

The Lindis at sunset (main) and Lindis interior (top); Seascape at Annandale.

Photos / Supplied

Wanaka, New Zealand

LUXURY ALPINE LODGE | GUIDED EXPERIENCES | PRIVATE EVENTS Visit www.minaretstation.com for our latest seasonal rates.

travel

30 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Win I WANT TO

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exPlore SOMEwhere NEW

Photo / Supplied

Win a luxury staycation at the Hotel Grand Windsor Hotel Grand Windsor, a luxury boutique hotel set in a 1920s Art Deco building in Auckland, has received an array of local and global awards for its luxurious interiors, outstanding guest experience and dining, including being crowned Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Boutique Hotel.

The New Zealand-owned hotel boasts a bespoke range of rooms, from Classic to Superior, as well as Luxury rooms and Junior Suites. Crowning the boutique accommodation on offer are the sumptuous Duchess and Windsor suites. Jewel tones and a nod to the Art Deco origins of the hotel are seen throughout the property.

We are giving away a grand staycation at Hotel Grand Windsor, valued at more than $1500. The winner will enjoy a night in the luxurious Duchess Suite (pictured), including a bottle of bubbles on arrival, high tea, dinner, jacuzzi, breakfast and a late check-out, making this the perfect getaway in the heart of Aucklandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CBD. To enter, visit nzherald.co.nz/win, fill in your details and tell us your favourite thing about staying in a hotel and why. We will publish some of our favourite responses in an upcoming issue. Entries close at 5pm, Monday July 6. Terms and conditions apply. For more information about Hotel Grand Windsor, go to hotelgrandwindsor.com.

I WANT TO

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 31

SPONSORED CONTENT

Toni Street

The Coast FM Breakfast host gives us the run down of her favourite hotspots and activities to do in Auckland

Where I’d go on a staycation in Auckland...

My favourite shopping precinct is…

Matakana and Omaha. I'd book a bach close to the beach, it's so peaceful and only 45 minutes from the city so you can really make the most of a night or two away... it's also nice and flat for biking around with the kids. The Matakana Village Farmers Markets are a must for breakfast (the crepes are sensational) and you can pick up some lovely fresh produce and treats for the weekend. If I wanted to stay close to home, I don't think you can go past the Cordis Hotel in the CBD, I host the New Zealander of the Year there every year and I always find the staff so lovely and accommodating. They also have the best traditional high tea too, so that's lunch sorted!

Newmarket. There is such a great mix of mall and outdoor shopping. I like to have all of my shopping in the one place so it's quick and efficient and Newmarket is so good for this – I can get stuff for the kids, my husband, friends and some treats for myself all at once! I love the car parking under Westfield Newmarket as you don't have to get a ticket or muck around paying at a pay station, it's all done through an app which saves so much time – its great if the weather is bad or I have the kids with me.

Favourite place to treat myself...

Kino Day Spa. There’s one location in Takapuna and another in the CBD. My friend recommended them and they have the best reflexology I’ve ever tried. Every time I go, I say to myself ‘I must do this more regularly’ but unfortunately It’s usually three or four months before I find the time to get back there. The whole experience is pure relaxation; from the dimmed lighting to the super plush lazy-boy like chairs and the super experienced massage therapists…It’s the ultimate way to unwind for me!

Favourite new place I’m most excited about is…

Commercial Bay on the waterfront. I haven’t been yet, but everyone I know that has says that it’s got a really wonderful international feel. I love the idea of being able to do a late afternoon shop, and then stay on for drinks and dinner. Rodd and Gunn the clothing store has opened an eatery there called the ‘Lodge Bar’ which I’m particularly excited to try…if the eatery is as classy as its clothes, it should be a total winner.

Favourite spot to dine...

My absolute favourite is Cibo in Parnell, Jeremy the owner makes sure everyone that walks through his door has a special time. It is our go-to for celebrations for the service, the food and the lively environment. I'm also a big fan of Japanese; I love Ebisu and Masu in the CBD. My favourite place to eat on Waiheke is the Oyster Inn; their oysters are sensational as is the chicken karaage, and trying one of their salted caramel espresso martinis is a must!

Favourite spot to take out-of-town friends to…

Waiheke. Lots of people outside of Auckland don't take the ferry regularly so that is a novelty and adventure in itself.

The beaches are a great place to start, especially in summer followed by lunch at one of the many amazing vineyards. I think the best place for a special lunch is Poderi Crisci, a beautiful Italian winery and Find out how you could restaurant. It is so peaceful, the win the ultimate Auckland experience at food is fantastic and the grounds coastonline.co.nz are immaculate... it's wonderful (terms and conditions apply) for a large group.

32 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 33

GO NZ: Cruising

» Silversea’s luxury cruise ship the Silver Muse; below, Stephanie Holmes kayaks in the Marlborough Sounds.

Photos / Supplied

CHRISTMAS SAIL

Stephanie Holmes escapes the stress of the festive season by taking off on a luxury cruise around New Zealand

I

t’s June, you don’t want to think about Christmas, I understand. But cast your mind back to the Christmas just gone.

Think about the stress leading up to it, the shopping and the clogged mall carparks, the menu preparation and the hours spent in the kitchen, the family member nobody really likes but everyone has to tolerate. Blood pressure starting to rise?

Cold sweat starting to form on your brow? Well, there is a solution.

How about cocooning yourself in a world of luxury, where nothing is too much trouble and anything is possible if you just ask for it? Where you only have to unpack once, but you’ll see multiple destinations.

Where you won’t have to lift a finger and the most important decision you’ll have to make is which restaurant you’ll eat dinner at each night.

It will be a Christmas you won’t forget in a hurry.

T

he Friday before Christmas and the weather was unseasonably cold and gloomy. The traffic crawled along Quay St as the roadworks and construction continued their ceaseless disruption of Auckland’s CBD. But I didn’t mind — I’d finished work for two weeks, and my ship was there at the port, waiting for me to board.

The luxury began the moment I stepped inside Shed 24 on Queens Wharf — Silversea staff greeting passengers and making the boarding process absolutely seamless.

Stepping across the air bridge on to Silver Muse, the pre-Christmas chaos faded away as if someone had gently turned down the volume.

Now, all around me, smiling crew with a warm welcome, and fellow guests already relaxing into their holiday.

I was sailing from Auckland to Lyttelton, a partial journey of a fuller 14-night voyage that was continuing on to Sydney. For me, ports of call included Tauranga and Picton, with a day or two of glorious relaxation at sea.

Every little detail, everywhere on the ship, was built for luxury, style and comfort. The bed,

better than the one at home. Expensive sheets.

A pillow menu with eight different types to choose from. Perfect orchids everywhere.

Bathrooms of marble, with Bvlgari toiletries — although if they’re not to your liking, you can ask your butler to swap them out for something else. The chilled bottle of champagne in your suite on arrival.

Champagne everywhere in fact — as you check in, pre-dinner drinks, post-dinner drinks — whenever you need it.

It was an opportunity to see New Zealand through fresh eyes — the seaside viewpoint providing a new perspective on the beauty we inevitably take for granted.

In Picton, I ventured away from the Silver Muse sanctuary for an afternoon’s kayaking on the Queen Charlotte Sounds.

Travelling alone, I buddied up in the two-person kayak with a man from Denver, Colorado.

CHECKLIST His wife and teenage daughter were spending Silversea offers a range of sailings the afternoon shopping, around New Zealand, including a but he was relishing the 10-day Auckland to Dunedin South chance to explore this Island voyage on Silver Explorer, and pristine corner of South a 16-day Sydney to Auckland Island coastline. I enjoyed itinerary from December 20 on playing tour guide, Silver Muse. silversea.com pointing out the family baches tucked away under our Kiwi Christmas trees in full bloom and made sure he knew how to properly pronounce pōhutukawa.

A

common refrain from many of the passengers I spoke to was the need to wind down after the pressures of the year — leaving behind busy jobs, traumatic events and family dramas. The thought of the chaos of shopping, meals and tense Christmas dinners were now a distant memory.

There was a desire to be looked after. “I was sick of doing everything for everybody else,” one traveller told me. “I just want to be pampered.”

This was pre-Covid, of course, and she had come all the way from Aberdeen, Scotland, to be here — four flights and more than 36 hours of travel time, but you could already see relaxation oozing from every pore.

Other solo passengers were facing their first Christmas alone — recent divorcees and widows,

those with adult children spending their first festive season with the other in-laws — and the prospect had been daunting. To be surrounded by others, and the comfort of a luxury ship, was an easy entry into a new phase of life.

They needn’t worry about being solo for long.

The first night’s mix and mingle gave solo passengers the chance to meet up for drinks and canapes before dinner, and the option to dine together afterwards. Friendships were quickly forged, and the solo travellers became group travellers for the rest of the cruise.

D

ays at sea fell into an easy rhythm. On the first, I slept so late I missed breakfast, aided by the comfort of the bed, the effectiveness of the black-out curtains, and the quiet of the ship. No matter, there was coffee and snacks at the all-day Arts Cafe, or my butler, Wendell, on call should I go hungry. Which was nigh on impossible thanks to the quality and abundance of food at the eight restaurants on board.

In between meals, there were many things to keep guests occupied. Port days gave a range of shore excursions to choose from; sea days were the perfect chance for forced relaxation.

Entertainment was there should we need it — bingo, shuffleboard, table tennis, trivia quizzes during the day; live music and dancing at night.

The Silver Note performers went down a treat — baby-faced crooners Wesley and Alfie a big hit, belting out old standards to an adoring crowd.

A

s the cruise progressed, the Christmas touches ramped up. I left my suite three days out from the big day to find each doorway now had a tiny red stocking hung from it. In the restaurants and public areas, Christmas songs played softly so as to be festive, but not intrusive. Gingerbread houses were placed strategically around the ship, with self-serve cookies and candy canes.

Among the guests, holiday mode had fully kicked in. “What day is it? I’ve lost track,” I overheard couples say to each other regularly.

And if it wasn’t for the decorations and the music, you’d have no idea Christmas was just days away.

Nobody was stressed, there were no chores to do, no last-minute panic about presents still to buy or recipes to perfect. You could see us all wondering, “Why haven’t I done this before?”

This year, Christmas would be perfect and we would all get the best present we could ever receive — the luxury of time to relax, while we celebrated another year around the sun.

travel

34 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Queenstown

»

luxury Turn up the

These days Queenstown is quiet and idyllic, the perfect place for a European-esque winter getaway, writes Sinead Corcoran

Queenstown's Onsen Hot Pools; Luxury accommodation at Gibbston Valley Lodge and Spa (inset). Photos / Supplied

W

hile there’s no denying it absolutely sucks that you’re going to have to table your plans to eat your way through Italy for the foreseeable future — I have an even better plan for you.

If you’re a born-and-bred Kiwi, I’m guessing you’ve already been to Queenstown — but I also bet that when you went it was heaving with tourists, right?

Well, in a blessing and a curse (obviously, mostly a coronavirus curse), these days Queenstown is quiet and idyllic so it’s the perfect place for a European-esque getaway, without suffering through the long-haul flight, jetlag and crowds.

Because Air New Zealand is not banking on long-haul international routes getting back to anywhere near pre-Covid-19 levels for another year, you’ll be saving so much coin forgoing those lavish international holidays.

On that note, I think you simply must treat yourself on this trip. You deserve to be pampered! You survived a pandemic, remember?

Okay, so the last time you went to Queenstown you slummed it in a local backpackers or budgetfriendly accommodation so you could spend all your money on partying and bungy jumping, and now you’ve got no clue how to plan a glamorous adult vacay?

Don’t worry, I’m here to help — because pre-Covid, I was lucky enough to spend a fancy weekend in Queenstown, and I spent the duration of miserable lockdown dining out on the memories.

First things first, book your not-sohumble abode — Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa. There are no cheapo backpackers’ bunk beds

here folks — just lavish private villas with secluded courtyards overlooking the vines.

Spend an afternoon drinking local wine in the sun-drenched conservatory or if it’s chilly, cosied up in front of the lodge fireplace.

Peckish? Thought so. Book the exclusive lodge cellar for dinner and a soak in the on-site spa pool, then snuggle up in the on-site movie theatre while you crack open another bottle. (You’re basically in Italy remember! Eat, pray, drink!)

The next day, after a hugely self-indulgent sleep-in (until noon at the very least, you’re in Europe remember! It’s the done thing there, I think). I’ve got plans for you.

Book a biking wine tour through the vineyards to burn off all the carbs and booze, but make sure you book an e-bike. Now is not

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 35

Make a date at Kinross for food and wine (left); Visit Peregrine Winery, Queenstown, on an e-bike trail; Sinead Corcoran with Nick Catley on an e-bike tour in Queenstown's Gibbston Valley (below).

South Island Queenstown

the time to show off to your mates that you’re basically Lance Armstrong, we need to conserve all our energy for eating and drinking, remember?

Spend the arvo half-heartedly pedalling while you snack and sip your way through local vineyards Peregrine, Kinross and Brennan before collapsing in front of the fire again.

When you eventually wake from your pinotinduced slumber, head back into Queenstown’s CBD for the ultimate luxury pampering experience — Onsen Hot Pools.

If you haven’t heard about Onsen you definitely would have seen it on Instagram; it’s the bougie spa pools nestled in the mountains that overlook the Shotover River canyons.

The private hot pools seat four people, so take your mates or your partner — or heck, even just go by yourself for some luxurious “me time”.

I’ve done all three options so I can vouch for how blissful they all are; the only downside of going alone is having to try to wrangle a brag-

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF

ging selfie without dropping your phone in the pool (and you know the smug selfie is half the point of going).

Also — I promise I don’t have a drinking problem — you can take wine in there if you’re that way inclined.

Once you’re sufficiently pruney, hoon back down the mountain and book a table at Blue Kanu.

I’ve eaten all over Queenstown and, aside from the absolute musttry Ferg burgers, this Polynesian-influenced eatery is hands down the best food in town. Think golden tempura shrimp,

QUEENSTOWN

Alpine Luxury Tours boast exclusive access and private local guides who know the area better than the back of their hand www.alpineluxurytours.co.nz

char siu pork ribs, crispy Szechuan calamari and Fijian market fish kokoda.

Don’t worry about deciding what to order, just “trust the wok”, and they’ll serve you up all their favourites — everything’s good, so you can’t go wrong.

See! You wouldn’t get Polynesian food in Italy, would you? Forget Europe, Queenstown is your new luxury OE. For more New Zealand holiday ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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QUEENSTOWN GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Queenstown. airnz.co.nz DETAILS queenstownnz.co.nz

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36 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

»

Ask the ones who know Insider secrets from the concierges of some of Auckland’s top five-star hotels

T

hey are the people who can answer almost any question hotel guests might have. And these Auckland concierges have seen — and heard — it all, from organising a wedding in less than a day to helping some very lost, confused tourists.

GUSTAVO CONCHA, FROM HILTON AUCKLAND How long have you worked at Hilton Auckland?

19 years, 5 months.

What are some of the best anecdotes from the guests you’ve met over the years?

A young couple arrived from the USA wanting to get married the next day.

I was able to organise for them to go to the registrar’s office and get their licence straight away. They wanted tattoos instead of wedding rings and a tuxedo for him. She already had a dress. I contacted a celebrant and had pretty much everything ready for the next day. It ended up being one of the more memorable weddings held here. A few years later, our general manager at the time and I received an invitation for the renewal of their wedding vows in Los Angeles.

It was a beautiful gesture.

Another time, a couple honeymooning from Miami arrived early one morning and wanted to see the whole of New Zealand in five days. They didn’t want to travel via helicopter or use commercial aircraft. I had worked with a colleague previously who had his pilot’s licence, and invited him to the hotel to plan their itinerary — by then I had booked their accommodation and the next day the pilot hired a plane and the three of them travelled throughout New Zealand. I reached out to one of my Concierge Les Clefs d’Or (Golden Keys) colleagues who was working in a lodge in Queenstown and he managed to get some Bluff oysters for them, which was a real treat. And all these years later, we are still in contact.

And in 2003, during the America’s Cup, Auckland city was the place to be. Ahead of the last race in early March, a VIP guest wanted to watch the race from the air (in a helicopter, of course) but they were all booked out. However, because of the good relationship we had with a particular helicopter company, they went out of their way to rent a helicopter from down south

and took our guest up to watch the final race.

The guest was so impressed with the service he invited me to tag along as well. Unfortunately, I could not join them.

What are your top tips for seeing the best of Auckland?

We are privileged to live in a city that offers a wide range of great outdoor activities. A favourite is Waiheke Island — it is perfect for wine-lovers and foodies, Oneroa beach is great for families, and the zipline is fun.

You could drive north of the city to Pūhoi Valley for some top quality cheese, then continue on to Matakana for unspoiled countryside, boutique shops and galleries, and wonderful food and wine — the weekend farmers’ market is a local favourite. If you keep going for another 10 minutes, you’ll arrive at Omaha Beach, where you will be greeted with white sand and crystal-clear waters.

Or head west from the CBD, to the fringes of the Waitākere Ranges, passing through Titirangi, the artists’ enclave on the Manukau Harbour. Stop at the Arataki Visitor Centre, which offers a unique look into New Zealand’s rich landscape, and some of our indigenous flora and fauna. A little longer in the car will deliver you to the volcanic black sand beaches of Piha, Karekare Falls and Muriwai.

Gustavo Concha, inset left, and Pablo Gonzalez, below, the men with all the answers. Photos / Getty Images; Supplied

PABLO GONZALEZ, FROM HOTEL GRAND WINDSOR How long have you worked at Hotel Grand Windsor?

Since March 2018, when I started as a doorman.

I am now the chief concierge.

What are some of the best anecdotes from the guests you’ve met over the years?

I remember one morning, a couple of American tourists came downstairs and asked how to get to Milford Sound because they had tickets for a ferry departing in an hour. I was astonished and I told them they were in the wrong island more than 1000km from the ferry terminal. That is something I will never forget.

What are your tips for seeing the best of Auckland?

I recommend walking along the waterfront where you can catch fantastic views of the skyline of Auckland city, wandering along charming city streets like Vulcan Lane or exploring the history and diversity on K Rd. If you have a car, you should drive over to the West Coast because the sunset over the gannet colony at Muriwai is one of the most amazing things you can enjoy in this country.

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 37

GO NZ: Local Knowledge Hawke’s Bay tips from James McMenamin, Assistant Lodge Manager, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers Where are your favourite places to dine in Hawke’s Bay? For a relaxing lunch, I love Puketapu Hotel. It is great for all ages and especially after a bike ride from Taradale along the Tūtaekurı̄ River. They offer excellent pub food served in the dining room or public bar (I prefer to sit in the covered outdoor area of the public bar with our beagles), and real value for money. The team there are efficient and communicative, even when it is very busy during weekend lunches.

For dinners, I like Piku Izakaya Japanese Restaurant & Cocktail Bar — delicious food and a great range of beverages in a funky environment. I love stopping by for sashimi and a cheeky Asahi too.

Where is your favourite local beach?

Mahia is a favourite for me and my family. We love the long, sandy beach and sleepy feel of the area. It is pure magic watching the sun go down across Hawke’s Bay while sitting on the beach.

We always camp just across the road at the Mahia Holiday Park and enjoy walking up the bluff to Mokotahi lookout in the mornings.

What is your go-to walkway when you want to get outdoors?

It’s always the Pakowhai Regional Park — known to the locals as The Dog Park — where our beagles can run free. It has 2km of trails on 19 hectares of land with stunning plantings of native and exotic trees. An incredibly beautiful place to be in spring and autumn.

Outside that, I love the wildflower walk at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers. It takes you through beautiful countryside and offers incredible views back towards Napier and over the Cape Kidnappers peninsula.

Favourite winery/cellar doors?

The Urban winery, Ahuriri. Tony Bish’s chardonnay prowess is legendary. Great live music on weekends and vinyl spins on the turntable at other times. There’s a great variety of wine by the glass from some of Hawke’s Bay’s best boutique producers — all at very reasonable prices. Nearby is Vetro foods, for all your European epicurean needs, and there is nothing like a stroll around the waterfront area afterwards.

And Clearview Estate — Tim Turvey is a local icon and the food here is great. It has a petanque court and children’s play area. Sitting under the vines, you can picture yourself in Tuscany or Bordeaux.

Favourite shop/boutique seller?

The sweet shop at Birdwoods Gallery. While Birdwoods has become a popular destination as a cafe, the lolly shop outside is filled with all the sweets I remember from childhood. When we go in there I am filled with childhood memories of sneaking down to the corner dairy to spend my

» Looking back from Cape Kidnappers to Hawke's Bay (main); James McMenamin (left) is assistant lodge manager at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers.

Photos / Supplied

secrets Local

Two experts in luxury accommodation share their favourite hometown spots weekly 20c pocket money.

What do you think is the best the hidden gem or under-rated destination your region has to offer?

Maraetotara — the waterfall is particularly beautiful and cascades year round as it is spring-fed. Just down the road is Mohi bush, a wonderful spot to take children for a walk through stunning native bush.

How would you describe the personality of your region?

Vivacious and playful.

Tips for Queenstown from Benedikt Bouillon, Lodge Manager, Matakauri Lodge Where are you favourite places to dine in Queenstown?

Lunch at Akarua Winery. Who doesn’t like a leisurely lunch with some of the best wine in New Zealand? I recommend sharing the braised lamb shoulder and a bottle of pinot noir as a group.

Where is your favourite local outdoors location?

Stroll around the botanical gardens at Queenstown Bay Beach while watching the sun setting behind the dramatic mountain ranges of Central Otago. If not this, then any of the walkways around Lake Wakatipu that can be accessed from Matakauri Lodge. It is wonderful to have these incredible walkways and stunning views on our doorstep.

Lake Wakatipu; Benedikt Bouillon (inset) is the lodge manager of Matakauri Lodge.

What is your go-to walkway when you want to get outdoors?

Moke Lake is a stunning mountain lake and the loop walkway takes you all the way around it. On a calm day you get beautiful reflections of the mountains.

Favourite winery/cellar doors?

We loved Wet Jacket Winery.

Located in an old woolshed, the wines at this boutique winery are produced by Central Otago legend Greg Hay. It comes as no surprise that they will be some of the best wines you will try in New Zealand.

Favourite shop/boutique seller?

Te Huia has a shop in Queenstown and one in Arrowtown. They sell everything merino. I would recommend going here if you are looking to buy clothing that will last a lifetime.

What do you think is the best hidden gem or under-rated destination that your region has to offer?

Doubtful Sound. While the masses are drawn towards Milford Sound, I personally prefer the much larger but emptier beauty of Doubtful Sound.

How would you describe the personality of your region?

Dramatic. Rugged. Beautiful.

Nestled amidst 120 hectares of lovely secluded native bush, and rolling farmland on the Tutukaka Coast, Matapouri Glamping offers an outstanding location for couples seeking a luxurious escape with peace, tranquillity and extra comforts.

Carrington Resort is a unique secluded retreat where privacy, service and great facilities, all combine to leave a lasting impression.

Carrington Resort’s Lodge rooms are indulgent and spacious; the threebedroom villas are ‘your home away from home’, and the completely self-contained luxury houses, offer world class accommodation & every convenience you could desire.

You will be spoilt for choice for activities to do during your stay. There is a 18hole championship golf course, Skeet and Trap shooting range, tennis courts, and a heated infinity pool all for you to enjoy at your leisure.

Come and explore this vast paradise and idyllic aquatic playground.

Book your Northland experience now

09 408 7222 | info@carrington.co.nz | www.carrington.co.nz

Features: • Modern bathroom • King-sized bed with views of the Poor Knights Islands • Outdoor bath • Private covered deck and BBQ • Self check-In Only Three hours north of Auckland, the Tutukaka Coast is one of our country’s most beautiful holiday locations, a gateway to many and boutique shops, minutes away, creating the perfect holiday destination.

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travel

38 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Fine Dining

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DINING in STYLE

Anna King Shahab takes a journey from southern charm to northern nous to seek out a lineup of special dining experiences

T

he luxury of dining out is these days measured less by ostentatious ingredients flown in from far-flung corners of the world, and more by the level of care and attention that has gone into creating a rounded experience for you, the diner. Fitting out the space, selecting the ingredients and preparing them, nailing service that walks a delicate balance, and leaving you with an overall impression of wanting to relive the experience in your dreams that very night. Eating amazing food without leaving a big environmental footprint in the act, discovering new and diverse ingredients, and learning the background story to what’s on your plate are key points in today’s definition of luxury dining.

A heritage building in Dunedin’s blossoming warehouse district is home to petite Moiety, where chef Sam Gasson

Chef Monique Fiso at Hiakai restaurant, Wellington (top); Dunedin restaurant Moiety (above).

Photos / Supplied

blends French and Japanese techniques and calls on the best of Southern produce.

Meanwhile, one of the first restaurants in the country to employ a dedicated foraging expert (the esteemed Peter Langlands), Amisfield Bistro — with chef Vaughan Mabee at the helm — was a pioneer in the now-popular focus on hyperlocal ingredients. Mabee uses them to take diners on a time and place-specific taste journey that has been elevated further with Tony Stewart (ex-Clooney in Auckland) joining the team as director of food and beverage. Stewart explains that as well as the signature tastingmenu experience, “A more casual bar food offering has been a focus of mine, to bring balance to our offering.”

Wānaka’s Ode describes its purpose as “conscious dining”. You can choose your journey, from a threecourse to an eight-course menu, with options for plant-based or wild-shot game, kaimoana from exemplary fishing folk Gravity, and a chef’s table add-on.

Ultra-fresh seafood is a rare luxury these days, and the best place in the country to indulge in it is Fleur’s Place in Moeraki.

Further up the line in Christchurch, seafood fans will love Kinji, where humble

surroundings frame chef Kinji Hamada’s work-of-art sashimi. At Gatherings, you’re made to feel pampered not by tweezerarranged garnishes, but by a bounty of sustainably sourced seafood and organic vegetables served up sharing-style. At elegant Inati, you’ll select dishes from Earth, Land and Sea — or opt to trust the chef — and get stuck into a wine list that boasts a lineup rich in picks from the North Canterbury wine region.

Banks Peninsula-based Craig Martin is executive chef at Annandale, but with Covid-19 rendering things quiet for many such luxury lodges, he’s set up private chef offering Native Kitchen — check it out on Facebook along with the group “Uniquely New Zealand Food & Beverage”, which Martin founded as a platform for our amazing producers.

Chef and founder of Eat New Zealand Giulio Sturla said goodbye to his groundbreaking Lyttelton restaurant Roots last year, but rising from its ashes, in the former test kitchen, he has just launched Mapu. Sturla cooks and serves a maximum of six guests, and prices vary according to the ingredients.

Luxury, he says, will always exist but the definition has changed since lockdown. “It has to be transparent”, he explains.

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“People want to know what they’re paying for . . . but ultimately, dining will be better than before — after two months inside, people know the price of food and they’re getting pretty good at cooking. They want an elevated experience, but they also want to feel comfortable and safe.”

Nestled in the country’s largest winegrowing region, Arbour in Blenheim has a rapport with myriad local winemakers and food producers which, along with the warm welcome and discreet, impeccable service led by Liz Buttimore, sets it apart. “I know who keeps what secret wine where,” she promises — so expect cool wine pairings to chef and co-owner Brad Hornby’s elegant, never tortured, food.

Order his “The Many” menu for thrilling creations with local delicacies like black garlic and surf clams.

Since the opening of Hiakai in 2019, owner and chef Monique Fiso has wowed Wellington diners with graceful, boundary-pushing food that comes from, and talks about, Te Ao Māori.

Monique and her team immerse themselves in learning about traditional ingredients (also touching on rongoā — medicinal elements), then in applying modern techniques to make those ingredients sing.

No matter the time of year, taking a seat at Craggy Range under the jagged peak of Te Mata sets the scene for a memorable dining experience. With a climate that paints clearly defined seasons, Hawke’s Bay produce sings on the plate under chef Casey McDonald’s watch.

Somehow, Franckie Godinho of Hawke’s Bay restaurant St Georges manages to plant out from seed, and tend to, two large, onsite, organic and biodynamic gardens — oh, and to take his produce right through to finished dishes — he’s also the chef. Godinho, who has cooked at Dubai’s Burj al Arab, offers a different shade of luxury at St Georges, with an a la carte or a six-course tasting menu supplied by the back yard. His wife, operations manager Kathryn Godinho, explains that in his upbringing, on a farm in Goa, “there was no such thing as convenience”, and that remains at the heart of her husband’s approach.

In Auckland, the surname Sahrawat is synonymous with seamless dining experiences, thanks to chef Sid and his wife and business

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 39

Top: Craggy Range restaurant (left); Cocoro; above, a dish from Moiety. Photos / Warren Buckland; Babiche Martens; Supplied

partner, Chand. Sid at the French Cafe retains its refined approach while now embracing a hyperlocal ethos, working with urban garden OMG across the road, sourcing produce and putting kitchen scraps back into the cycle. Make time for drinks there: “Our new cocktail menu by bar manager Roberto Giampaolo”, entices Chand, “features innovative techniques and interesting ingredients such as butterfly pea tea, pandan cordial, red shiso juice and a date balsamic cordial”.

At Sidart, the brief is “progressive Indian cuisine”: elegant tasting dishes imbued with elements from Sahrawat’s Indian background, with everything but the spices sourced in New Zealand. His wife highlights a new dish on the menu: pork shoulder and belly cooked overnight in vindaloo spices, then pressed and fried into a mouthful snack with an emulsion made from vindaloo oil. Now’s a great time to book into these two Auckland aces — firstly because they have slightly lowered the prices of tasting menus to reflect the current economic climate, and secondly because our NZ truffle season is approaching and they’ll feature on the menus at both restaurants.

Across town in Ponsonby, the Signature Course menu at Cocoro — featuring chef Makoto Tokuyama’s thrillingly presented “tsukiri” sashimi platter — has long reigned as one of the most luxurious dining experiences in the country. And at Herne Bay’s Paris Butter, chef Nick Honeyman has cleverly merged his years of fine-dining experience with a fun side: expect refined food with a vibrant atmosphere; check out their Friday long lunch and winter series of collab dinners with other leading chefs.

And if push-the-envelope eating is what you seek, secure a seat (there are only six) at the counter at Parnell’s Pasture, and watch as chef Ed Verner prepares dishes in front of you — some featuring ingredients that have been fermented or aged for months, some treated simply and cooked on the fire, revealing surprise after surprise in taste and texture.

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

SOMM-THING SPECIAL Tips on making magic with drinks pairings, from sommelier Hiro Kawahara of Sid at the French Cafe.

Consider temperature I personally prefer matching white wine with colder meals and red wine with warmer meals. Of course, if you happen to order piping-hot fried chicken, icy-cold beer would also be a great match.

Consider weight When you drink several glasses of different wines, progress from lighter ones, to heavier, and similarly from less tannin to more tannin. Generally speaking, it is hard to taste a light-bodied wine after a heavybodied one.

Consider the past and the future If you are not opting for a paired match from the menu, then thinking about what dishes and drinks you’ve already had, and what you’re going to be eating next, is important.

Consider more than wine As cuisine has diversified, so have beverages — both alcoholic and without alcohol.

Consider your taste buds Please follow your preference. We enjoy ourselves most when we drink what we like to drink. There are a number of ways food and drinks can match together, and there are not many bad pairings. Please do not be afraid; simply focus on enjoying the meal, drink, and time spent. Consult with a sommelier; ask us whether the pairing in your mind matches or not, for example — we should be able to offer more options to choose from.

travel

40 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Golf Courses

the

»

N FRONT

NINE Michael Donaldson on the country’s most spectacular golf courses

MILLBROOK

ew Zealand is blessed with magical, unique golf courses — but there are some experiences that fill the senses and defy the adage that golf is a good walk spoiled.

Think of it as the difference between fast food, pub bistros, upmarket restaurants and high-end fine dining — there’s a range of golf courses for everyone’s taste and budget.

Just as with food, what constitutes luxury is up for discussion — is it the food, the service, or the architecture and decor?

For many, golf luxury is defined by the accommodation, clubhouse and service but what about the core element — the meat of the matter, the heart of the experience: the unspoiled walk? Here are nine of the best walks you can take while hitting a ball.

KAURI CLIFFS Kauri Cliffs was the catalyst for the New Zealand golf tourism boom.

Relatively secluded and unprepossessing — not many of New Zealand’s best courses are showoffs when it comes to the front gate — you will need GPS to make sure you get the right turnoff. The understated, discreet theme continues with low-key friendly service.

The show-off element is entirely in the spectacular setting above Matauri Bay. The grandeur is captured in the expansive views, the dramatic elevation changes and wide fairways as welcoming as the staff in the clubhouse. Kauri Cliffs is slightly more playable than its sister course at Cape Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay without being as architecturally intriguing, but it smokes Kidnappers for the views — you get them on nearly every hole, and a third of the course is directly over the cliffs.

If you decide to walk, be warned: there are some steep climbs.

If you choose to stay and play, opulent accommodation caters for couples, families and groups — and the food is outstanding.

TARA ITI Yes, you can play Tara Iti. Yes, it will cost you a week’s wages or more if you stay and play. And yes, it’s worth every penny. New Zealand’s best golf course is beyond words — it’s a feeling that sinks into your bones and stays with you.

Everything is perfect, understated and uberelegant. To apply to play you submit a website form. It will help to have a letter of support from your club. Tara Iti is private but not snobby — they want people to enjoy this Pacific gem and once there, you’re welcomed like a friend and treated like royalty.

Getting there is a bit of magical mystery tour and you literally stumble upon the gate after driving down a sandy lane. Part of the Tara Iti experience is hiring a caddy, and you’ll need one.

Ask advice, and listen, because it’s the only way you’ll figure out how to negotiate this natural wonder where the eye is constantly deceived and intrigued by Tom Doak’s design.

The secret to Tara Iti is playfulness of the design and the silky fescue grass that typifies British and Irish links courses. Fescue doesn’t grow happily in New Zealand (it’s too warm) and there’s been considerable effort to make it work here but it’s like a special ingredient that makes all the difference when you’re searching for that truly natural golf experience.

TITIRANGI Laced (and bisected) by the suburban streets of New Lynn and Green Bay, Titirangi is a diamond in the rough (with no offence to all the Westies reading this*). It’s one of those courses that golf nerds love and it attracts visitors from all around the world. And that’s all to do with the fact it was designed by Alister MacKenzie, the legendary golf architect who created Augusta National (home of The Masters) and other gems such as Royal Melbourne, Cypress Point in California and Royal St George’s in Kent.

As New Zealand’s only MacKenzie-designed course, Titirangi wears an elite crown comfortably. It might not be the longest course, nor the JACK’S POINT

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WAIRĀKEI INTERNATIONAL The original 1970s New Zealand resort course remains a treat to play — especially since they’ve redone their greens after they were wrecked last year by someone applying weed-killer to them by mistake.

Set inside a wildlife sanctuary, this Taupō treat is immaculate presentation on a grand scale, with expansive fairways, large greens and tall trees that create a natural amphitheatre on many holes. There’s accommodation at the nextdoor nine-hole course — the perfect warm-up circuit before you take on the demanding 18-hole championship course. The accommodation also features hot pools.

Wairākei might be a veteran of the New Zealand resort scene but the recent upgrade to the greens makes it a magical place to play — especially in the cooler months, when you can soak in those hot tubs after a long unspoiled walk.

KINLOCH Perched on the hills above the thriving township of Kinloch, on the northern tip of Lake Taupō with amazing views back to the lake and mountains, this is one of the most unique courses in New Zealand.

Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the greatest major championship winner in history, this difficult track is a consummate test of skill and luck thanks to the ever-undulating, crumpled fairways resembling those you’d find on the best links courses of Britain and Ireland.

There will be bounces that go against you but they’ll be countered by the ones that play in your favour — it’s a great test of patience and your faith in the golf gods. As Nicklaus himself said, it’s a great test of your “mental game”. You can stay at Kinloch Manor, with a variety of rooms and suites to suit varying budgets or stay at Kinloch’s “sister”, Treetops.

CAPE KIDNAPPERS Before Tara Iti, Cape Kidnappers was the definition of New Zealand golf course — and easily our most photographed one. The stunning clifftop location, perched high above the ocean is perfectly picturesque. From your arrival through an unassuming gate and up a winding road, you know you’re somewhere special.

As with Kauri Cliffs, the understated but spot-on hospitality makes you feel like a millionaire. The facilities are magnificent, the staff attentive. The only thing that could make it more ideal is when the wind stays away. Because yes, the cliff-top location can deliver some fierce tests. The beauty of Cape Kidnappers is the land itself — rugged and isolated with a variety of holes that navigate valleys, clifftops and ravines.

PARAPARAUMU BEACH New Zealand’s premier links course describes itself as “golf at its purest”. And there’s no denying it is New Zealand’s most pure and natural links experience. The rolling landscape, the sand base that makes it playable all year round, the best collection of (diabolical) par-3 holes in the country — it all adds up to a unique experience you cannot get anywhere else in the country.

The club has worked on embellishing the open links feel by gradually removing trees as part of a restoration project. The effect is to create wideopen vistas that only up the ante for the Irish and Scottish links vibe. If you don’t love Paraparaumu Beach, you don’t love golf.

If you want high-end accommodation — as in Tiger Woods’ style high-end — stay at Greenmantle Estate, where Woods himself stayed when he played the New Zealand Open at Paraparaumu Beach in 2002. It’s five minutes

from the course and the only luxury lodge on the west coast of the lower North Island.

TITIRANGI

KINLOCH

MILLBROOK Queenstown’s renowned resort has undergone a substantial makeover in recent years and offers 27 holes of golf (each nine holes — Coronet, Arrow and Remarkables — has its own character) that cater for all levels.

The Coronet Nine is the pick of the nines — a modern layout that feels well and truly rooted in the landscape thanks to the uplifted schist seams and walls that dot the fairways and occasionally frame the green. The signature sixth hole with its choice of fairways and a creek running vertically is a fantastic test of skill and an aesthetic treat.

The accommodation and facilities at Millbrook are second-to-none.

JACK’S POINT A golf course that snuggles comfortably into the landscape in which it is rooted goes a long way towards creating an idyllic experience. The beauty of Jack’s Point is how it fits into the framework created by the Remarkables above and Lake Wakatipu below.

The joy of the course is captured in the views. The mountains offer a constantly dramatic backdrop, interspersed with explosive splashes of blue when the lake reveals itself — most notably when you walk to the tee of the par3 seventh hole, where the green seems to lie almost vertically below you, perched on the edge of the lake. * Michael Donaldson is a West Auckland resident, member of Titirangi and the author of Country Courses of New Zealand For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

TARA ITI

PARAPARAUMU BEACH

Photos / Photosport; Supplied; Michael Donaldson

most difficult. The clubhouse and facilities are modest. But the layout — notably the devilishly tricky greens — is eye-candy for the soul.

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 41

Amazing Local Luxury Offer What makes this unprecedented offer so fabulous, are all the inclusions – luxurious accommodation, three exquisite dining experiences daily; as well as pre-dinner drinks and canapés, select wines and beverages, with complimentary non-alcoholic in-suite minibar. The generosity extends to a day of unlimited green fees on our world-renowned course or a relaxing spa treatment, for each night of your stay. $675 + GST per person, per night, double/twin occupancy.

A minimum two-night stay is required.

For a strictly limited time 1 August – 30 October 2020, and subject to availability.

Contact us now to secure your reservation www.robertsonlodges.com Tel. 06 875 1900 Email reservations@capekidnappers.com

Also available at sister properties Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown, & The Lodge at Kauri Cliff, Northland.

travel

42 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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1 9 12 UNDER WRAPS

Because what you wear ‘down there’ can also have an impact on your overall mood. While your intimates might not be visible to all and sundry, good quality underwear is worth investing in. Allbirds has released its latest foray into undergarments, exploring the same environmentally friendly design and innovation of its sneakers and socks into underwear made from breathable natural fibres.

Made from cooling eucalyptus tree material with soft New Zealand Merino Wool, the new collection of underwear is available in soothing colours including grey, red, navy, black and blue. Allbirds briefs $46. allbirds.com.

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ORGANIC HUES AND TEXTURES PROVIDE AMPLE INSPIRATION FOR DRESSING WITH AN INDOOR / OUTDOOR STATE OF MIND.

DOWNto EARTH

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Want to look the part while you lap up the luxury?

Dan Ahwa has all your style needs sorted

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1. PS Paul Smith hooded jumper, jumper $335, from fifthave.co.nz. 2. 24 Bot Bottles x Woolrich drink bottle (500ml), $70, from barkersonline.co.nz. 3. Cashmere scarf, $325. crane-brothers.com. 4. Edmund Hillary jumper $395. edmundhillary.com. 5. Google Nest Mini smart speaker, $89, from spark.co.nz. 6. Asuwere t-shirt $70. asuwere.co 7. Comme des Garcons Parfums fragrance (200ml), $249, from Fabric. thisisfabric.com. 8. Native Son by Witi Ihimaera (2019), $40, published by Penguin. 9. Oakley shell trousers $270. oakley.com. 10. Raf Simons key charm, $300, from Zambesi. zambesistore.com. 11. Timberland tramping boots $300. timberland.co.nz. 12. Tom Ford exfoliating scrub (110ml), $93, from smithandcaugheys.co.nz. 13. Hermes menswear autumn/winter 2020. 14.

Carhartt beanie, $55, from superette.co.nz. 15. R.M Williams Boots $635. rmwilliams.com.au. 16. Prada Linea Rossa sunglasses $232, from sunglasshut.com. 17. Levi’s x Super Mario tote bag $64. levis.co.nz. 18. Working Style wash bag $299. workingstyle.co.nz. 19. Checks Downtown socks $20. checksdowntown.com

LISTEN L LI

The Campfire Headphase by Th Boards Of Canada (2005) Bo Boar “Whenever I’m heading away or travelling, a good playlist will always include Boards of Canada. This is one of my favourite albums. The electronic ambient sounds of Scottish duo Michael Sandison and Marcus Eoin is the type of music that immediately puts me at ease – encouraging plenty of daydreaming and perfect for days off-duty.”

— Dan Ahwa

travel

Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 43

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WARM UP

IF A MID-WINTER ESCAPE IS ON THE CARDS, CONSIDER PACKING A FEW ESSENTIAL (AND SPECIAL) ITEMS TO HELP ENCOURAGE YOU TO STAY WARM, WHATEVER THE ELEMENTS.

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COLD 29 Comforts 31

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Stay warm with a little nostalgia wrapped around you in these gorgeous, fully restored New Zealand wool blankets in myriad colours and patterns.

Blanket expert Kathleen Green is the woman behind Fresh Retro Love. “I believe in the quality, durability, health, fire resistant, temperature regulating qualities of wool. I love that I can spend my time in this sustainable, useful, New Zealand supporting endeavour. My passion is for restoring them to their former glory ready for another round of warm beds, picnics and binge watching fireside snuggles. Keep up to date with Kathleen’s’ latest stock: on Instagram or Facebook @freshretrolove.

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20. Made to order Hill’s Hats wool hat $190. hillshats.co.nz. llshats.co.nz. 21. Edmund Hilary scarf $120. edmundhillary.com. 22. Samsoe Samose shirt, $589, from Fabric. thisisfabric.com. 23. A History of Solitude by David Vincent, published by Polity Press (2 (2020). 24. Liam trousers $189. rubynz.com. 25. Cartier diamond and leather partridgejewellers.com. 26. Stella Tennant ther watch, $31,900, from Partridge Jewellers. partridgejewellers.c for Vogue 1995. Photo / Arthur Elgort/Getty Images. 27. Sills sweater $329. sillsandco.com. 28. Awake cardigan, $ $430, from Platform. ja platformstore.co.nz. 29. Adidas sneakers, $170,, from Playpark by Karen Walker. karenwalker.com karenwalker.com. 30. Ricochet jacket $489. ricochet.co.nz.

31. Moon Juice ‘Dream Dust’ adaptogen $60. moonjuice.com. 32. Valentino boots $1365. valentino.com. 33. Markberg gloves, $149, from Smith & Caughey’s. smithandcaugheys.co.nz. 34. Aje jacket $525. ajeworld.co.nz. 35. Victoria Beckham autumn/winter2020. 36. Aesop night mask (60ml) $170. aesop.co.nz. 37. Aotea Manuka oil (10ml) $35. aoteamade.co.nz. 38. Thermos tea flask, $80, from Briscoes. briscoes.co.nz. 39. Kowtow jumper $649. kowtowclothing.com.

Snacks & Chats Instigated by writer Leilani Momoisea Dallas and Ben Lawson, this isa great local podcast featuring a diverse mix of special guests including UFC middleweight champion Israel Adesanya, singer Chelsea Jade, dancer Jahra ‘Rager’ Wasasala and more.

Each episode begins by asking creative New Zealanders how they tackle that loaded question, “Where are you from?”

Available on Apple Podcasts.

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44 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 45

GO NZ: Advice

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Because you’re worth it

I

t may happen just once in a lifetime: a crazy random upgrade, a rare invitation to a silverservice restaurant, a night in a five-star resort.

Perhaps it’s a symptom of our largely egalitarian society, but New Zealanders aren’t great at receiving luxury service. But just because you weren’t born with a silver spoon in your mouth doesn’t mean you shouldn’t know how to navigate your way around the cutlery. Playing the part can make the experience all the more fun.

Here are some tips for luxury debutants: Take advantage For some, luxury living is an everyday affair. But that’s not me and you — so accept that glass of champagne (no matter what the time of day), make a point of flopping down poolside; try the caviar.

Make an entrance Remember when Harry and Meghan strode to their fancy sportscar to head for their wedding reception? That’s the effect you’re looking for.

Act like you belong there Adam Partridge, etiquette expert and spokesman for Debrett’s, which published the A to Z of Modern Manners, told Travel it’s important to relax. “While you might be overwhelmed by the grandeur or the formality of your surroundings, you won’t be able to enjoy them as much if you’re constantly on edge that you’re using the wrong cutlery or feel uncomfortable with all the pampering.”

Give thanks Don’t be over-zealous in your gratitude. Say “thank you”, but let the professionals who are serving you do their job without feeling the need to chirrup every time they adjust a place-setting.

Know your napkin Let the staff put your napkin in your lap and, if you have to leave the table, place the napkin on the back of your chair. When you’ve finished

Remember us in your Will and leave a legacy of hope

altogether and it’s time to leave the restaurant, drop the napkin on the table.

Ask away Don’t be afraid to ask for things — the staff are there to serve and make you happy.

Hold your horses Wait until everyone has their food before starting. This one’s actually a basic courtesy that should apply whether you’re at the local RSA or The Ritz.

Top tips “Bring pocket change,” says Partridge. “While some cultures, such as the Japanese, don’t tip even for luxury service, in most places tipping is highly appreciated.”

Picture this Don’t take too many photos but do get one — after all, this is a rare and special occasion. Just try to be cool about it.

“For those staying at a 5-star hotel for the first time, it’s very tempting to start taking photos of your plush surroundings on arrival,” says Partridge. “But why not act like you’ve been there before and they’ll see you again soon?”

No right turn If you’re seated in the plane’s premium cabin, make a point of turning left once you’ve boarded the plane. It’s kind of hilarious when Business Class newbies take a wrong turn.

“Many venues, be they restaurant, hotel, event space or members’ club, have dress codes which can include no jeans, shorts, miniskirts or trainers,” says Partridge.

“Make sure to pack items to ensure you’ll look the part: for men, a blazer, collared shirt, chinos and leather shoes; for women: a dress, or skirt with a modest hemline, a blouse or non-revealing top, and smart shoes.”

Spoonerisms Know which way around the cutlery goes but don’t get stressed about it. As a rule, you start with the cutlery on the outside and work your way in towards the plate.

But most high-end restaurants these days will clear your cutlery and present new tools for each course.

Ignore the helicopters Properly rich people don’t actually hear helicopters, so familiar are they with the clattering noise of other properly rich people landing on the restaurant lawn or arriving for a round of golf.

Don’t test the wine The sommelier will offer to pour a splash of wine once the bottle is opened — the idea being that whoever ordered the wine will have a taste to check whether it’s corked. The good news is that in this age of screw-top bottles, there’s no corked wine, so be cool and gesture for the wine to be poured for your fellow diners.

Be polite They’re service staff, not servants.

This story was first published in Travel, September 4, 2018.

Look smart Flying in premium cabins isn’t all bow ties and curtseys, but it’s worth putting a touch more effort into your appearance.

You’ll feel better for it. A reasonable shirt, and for goodness sake Kiwi men: no Jandals.

Photo / Getty Images

Winston Aldworth offers tips to everyday folk on how to fit in when receiving high-end service

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46 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

»

Matters of the heart

Luxury getaways around New Zealand helped ease the pain of heartbreak, and celebrate new love, writes Stephanie Holmes

M

arch 2013 and the wedding was only nine months away. The date was set, the venue booked, the first dance chosen. But all of a sudden everything was broken — our engagement, his promises, my heart.

It was the kind of heartbreak that seeped into every ounce of my being — even my bones felt heavy with sadness. The spaces around me felt too small and I knew I had to get away, for a change of scenery and a chance to breathe.

Things started to feel different as soon as I stepped off the plane. Like putting on sunglasses after staring into the glare of the sun, the harshness of the world now seemed softer, more manageable.

A luxury car, a respectfully quiet driver, a coastal road, and finally a turn off at a nondescript gate leading up a long, winding driveway. Then I was there — The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, my sanctuary for two nights of soul-saving luxury.

Everything was comfortable, everyone was friendly, nobody asked why I was there or why I looked so sad. Perhaps I no longer looked sad? It’s easier to forget the weight on your shoulders when you have beautiful surroundings and a team of staff dedicated to making your every wish come true.

Exquisite food and wines were a balm for the soul, but it was the views that helped the most — wide-open spaces, rolling Hawke’s Bay farmland, the dramatic cliffs of Cape Kidnappers dropping down to the sparkling Pacific Ocean below. The world seemed bigger, and there was a glimmer of hope on the horizon.

Years later, so much happier and that Hawke’s Bay heartbreak all but forgotten, I took a trip to Cape Kidnappers’ sister lodge, Kauri Cliffs up in Northland with my friend Alice. She drove us there in her little Mazda and we arrived after four hours on the road, dishevelled and with a car full of lolly wrappers and empty coffee cups. The lodge manager took her keys to valet park the car and didn’t even bat an eyelid at the mess. His demeanour suggested, “of course, everyone’s car looks like this on arrival”, and he was so convincing we relaxed in an instant.

That’s the wonderful thing about luxury — you might think you don’t belong, but no one else will make you feel that way.

S

eptember 2016. A new man, a better man. Our first luxurious weekend away saw us take a private plane to Whitianga. The flight was like a promotional video for New Zealand — soft light glinting off the Hauraki Gulf, the surface millpond-still, boats bobbing like bath toys.

The boutique lodge had everything we needed and more: a private chef cooking us a gourmet five-course dinner, wine, a bath with a view, and cosy nooks for lounging, reading, and contemplating how happy we were.

The lodge was called 970 Lonely Bay, but there was nothing lonely about it. Life moves on, sad memories fade and the good ones expand to perfectly fill the space left behind.

June 2020, and I’ll soon be heading to Hawke’s Bay for a luxurious weekend getaway. This time it’ll be me plus one.

Every story needs a happy ending.

Balm for the soul at The Farm at Cape Kidnappers and, inset middle, 970 Lonely Bay. Photos / Supplied

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 23, 2020 | 47

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48 | Tuesday, June 23, 2020

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