AJA 5

APRIL 2013 | â„–5

i n t e r n at i o n a l M a g a z i n e

On Steps of Lebanese Heritage Returning to the Point of Departure

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Celebration- Coast to Coast AJA 15th Anniversary in USA

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They came, they saw, they won A Masterpiece by AJA School

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ZORAB CREATION

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YEREVAN SHOW 2013

Yerevan Jewelry Show is a grand international jewelry exhibition held in Armenia and produced by AJA – Armenian Jewellers Association, a non-governmental organization.

Aimed at promoting jewelry businesses and integrating the Armenian jewelry industry into the global market, Yerevan Show is attended by exhibitors/sellers, buyers and visitors alike.

Jewels made from precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, ambers, corals and precious metals are presented during the exhibition. Other industry related businesses such as watches, costume jewelry and craft-working tools are also exhibited.

Security at the event is provided by a subdivision of the Yerevan Police Department, per an agreement entered into by and between the Show Promoter and Yerevan Police.

The exhibition will be held under the patronage of the President of Armenia, Serzh Sargsyan.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 3

Message from the President

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE The Armenian Jewelers Association plays a pivotal role in promoting and preserving the jewelry profession by many international measures. We owe this to our deep rooted culture, history as well as our past and present members whose achievements and contributions have given us prestige and value as an organization.

2012 was a successful year for AJA as we met andsurpassed the organization’s goals and objectives. We organized the first ever AJA Jewelry Show in Yerevan and took grand steps to establish the base for an economic free zone in Armenia.

With great enthusiasm, Armenia and its leadership stand behind this massive effort and look forward to this advancement.

We celebrated a milestone 15th anniversary for our organization as we took inventory of the many successes and relationships credited to the Armenian JewelersAssociation.

We opened three AJA jewelry schools—two in Armenia and one in Moscow. To advance our profession, our senior members must mentor our younger members by donating their time and talent. The exchange of knowledge between generations must continue in order to maintain the

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necessary resources to face ominous future challenges in our profession.

The establishment of AJA’s schools will forge this path forward.

We redesigned the AJA logo to complement the strength of our organization. The J for jewelry resembles the Olympic torch—an enduring symbol of our history and nation. It stands for our spirit, knowledge and foresight. The joining of the two A’s in a circle also bears significance as it unites all members under one vision, one cause. We come full circle to support and help Armenian jewelers all around the world.

The jewelry profession is facing unprecedented challenges with new and changing regulatory requirements, rapid technological advances, shrinking margins and increasing costs related to manufacturing and retail. The luxury of being able to focus almost exclusively on the practice of designing and creating is a thing of the past, as now much additional attention is needed to take care of the “business” end. That’s why, more than ever, relationships are key. AJA is committed to advancing networking and educational opportunities in 2013 for all its members.

In many respects, our members are well positioned for the

Message from the President

future. Indeed, some future predictions seem discouraging, but be assured that in every challenge, there is an opportunity.

We will adapt and prosper if we remain flexible and resourceful. We must keep ourselves educated and updated in our specialty in order to maintain excellence, and keep abreast of new and proposed issues that affect our industry and environment.

We’ve done so much, yet there is much more to do!

My personal goal for 2013 is unsurpassed quality. I am committed to setting the bar higher than past years—to collectively deliver the highest quality of everything possible.

From our publication to our trade shows to oureducational forums, AJA must continue to be synonymous with quality and value. In view of this mission, four priorities reflect the fundamental values I challenge myself and my members with: - Be Creative and Innovate. Our long-term success is rooted in a combination of artistic creativity and technological innovation. It is the foundation of our continued success.

- Aim for Excellence. We must never compromise when it comes to quality and reputation. We must continue to pay

close attention to every detail and ensure the utter perfection in all we do—from customer relations to education to product creation.

- Strive to Be the Best in All We Do. We must strive to constantly improve and broaden our skills. We can never be complacent. This thirst for progress will set us apart from the rest.

- Bolster the Image of Our People and Our Country. It took thousands of years of culture and history to build our image. Armenians are known as smart, honest, industrious and talented people. This reputation is an asset—an asset that is both priceless and irreplaceable. We must maintain this reputation to allow for business growth and prosperity for our country and our people.

Let us commit to a great 2013. There is no room for compromise. We must elevate the level of quality. We must work harder to better ourselves and our organization. AJA is strong, stable and secure but we must make it stronger, more stable and more secure.

I look forward to a great year—a year filled with a healthy dose of hard work, pragmatism, efficiency and the pursuit of excellence!

Sincerely, Gagik Gevorkyan

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 5

INSIDE THIS ISSUE EVENTS 12

Yerevan Show 2012 Celebration – Coast to Coast The Premiere of the Co/Art Exhibition Overview of the Armenian Jewelry Industry’s Development Prospects

Main Topic 28

Tracing the Steps of the Armenian Lebanese Heritage Returning to the Point of Departure

12

fACES 32

A Master Teacher and Mentor Hrayr Tserunian

Golden Roots 34

Anjar – A Motherland for Armenian Jewelers First Armenian Citizen in Anjar Peace: Better Business Solution Jeweler by Trade, Artist at Heart

COVER JEWEL 40

Masterpiece by Zohrab Creations Antiques of the Future

PHOTO SESSION 46

Bourch Hammoud: Little Armenia in Lebanon

32 34

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46

Tracing the Steps of the Armenian Lebanese Heritage Returning to the Point of Departure

Article on Page 24

ARMENIAN SIGNATURES 50 The Talent is in Lebanon A Woman’s Touch Built to Last Capturing the Beauty of Extreme Environments Fit for a King, or a Sheik In a Class by Itself A Golden Investment Seven Brothers, One dream Some Secrets Must be Kept Golden desert by Boyadjian Brothers Jewelry in the Genes Vhp’s Embellishments Come With a VIP Treatment

50

GEMOLOGY 92 Creating Success by Succession

HOROLOGY 94

All for the Association and Association for all Interview with Harout Missirian

INTERVIEW 96

CIBJO President Visits Yerevan Show 2012

Business 102

Jewelry Industry: Bright Outlook For 2013 We Are What We Buy!

AJA news 104

AJA of Ontario SIERA Wins Award at Centurion AJA Reception - Dinner at Hong Kong Show AJA Looks For New Prospects in Asia VichenzaOro 2013 AJA Welcomes Newest Chapter to Its Ranks Estet Jewelry House of Russia Wins “Distinction Award” at International Jewelry Design Excellence Awards AJA Western USA Elects New Board Members

Golden youth 114 They Came, They Learned, They Mastered

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ARMENIAN JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION

International magazine APRIL 2013 | №5 President: Gagik Gevorkyan Publisher: «Armenian Jewellers’ Association» non-governmental organization.

Address: 1 Amiryan Street, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia State Registry Certificate: 03073105, Issued: 29.09.2006

Dear Readers,

Editor in Chief: Gayane Manukyan

It is my pleasure to congratulate the Armenian Jeweller’s Association on its 15-year anniversary.

What an impressive milestone the Association has reached. I commend all the members for their dedication and diligent services, which have been instrumental in the success and growth of this vital association.

AJA kick-started 2013 with the CO/Art Exhibition in Paris, in honor of Armenian’s Mastery in the Art of Jewelry, the first of its kind. The Yerevan Show, in its 3rd year already, has amassed much attention and global interest and finally, this latest issue, which we dedicate to our fellow Armenian jewelers in Lebanon.

In examining the history of Armenian jewelers’ exodus from the Ottoman Empire, we find their descendants today in Lebanon. The strong communities in Beirut, Anjar and Bourj Hammoud, were founded by survivors of the Armenian Genocide. They brought with them their skills and knowledge as jewelers and have been passing it on from one generation to the next ever since.

My trip to Lebanon left me humbled, inspired and in awe. As a token of our appreciation, and a means by which we can inform the current generation of this community’s accomplishments, we proudly dedicate this issue to them.

Editor In Chief Gayane Manukyan

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Editor: Harut Sassounian Marketing Director: Arick Gevorkian Contributors: Pathyl Aposhian Paul Frumkin Anne Nahabedian Graphic design: Ara Poghosyan Photoraphs: Artur Torosyan Erick Amirkhanian Edition of 5000 copies: Printed at «Nushikyan print» publishing hous, Address: Manandyan 33/6 street, Yerevan, Armenia Tel. +37410 46 46 60 Editorial Office: 520 N Central Ave, Glendale, CA 91203 Tell: 1818 370 58 22 e-mail: editor@ajainternational.com www.ajainternational.com Representatives Abroad: Armenia: Hagop Darbinyan e-mail: darbinyan@dahako.com USA East Coast, NY: Berge Abajian e-mail: berge@bergio.com USA West Coast, LA: Sarkis Nourian e-mail: sarkisnourian@yahoo.com Canada, Toronto: Pierre Akkelian e-mail: Pierre@canadiangem.com South America, Argentina: Martin Moroian e-mail: martin@martingroup.com France, Europe: Hovel Chenorhokian e-mail: hovel@hexagone-sa.com Thailand, Asia: Arto Artinian

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Events

Yerevan Show 2012

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poxel

DIARY

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he international jewelry exhibition, Yerevan Show 2012, was held October 29-31,2012 with a special dedication to AJA’s 15th anniversary.

The opening ceremony was attended

by Armenia’s President Serzh Sargsyan, First Lady Rita Sargsyan, Minister of Diaspora Hranush Hakobyan and Deputy Minister of Economy Tigran Harutunyan.

Prime Minister of Armenia, Tigran Sargsyan, hosted the Armenian Jeweler’s Day and AJA’s 15th anniversary reception.

On October 30th, during the conference entitled “ Armenian Jewelry Industry Development Prospects”, members, guests as well as the Ministers of Diaspora and Economy discussed the Association’s long-term objectives such as the Free Trade Zone and further expansion of the Yerevan Show.

The participations of dozens of companies bolstered sales and forged new relationships. Many exhibitors came away with lucrative contracts, new prospects and several retailers sold to clients from Russia, UAE and India.

Calling this year’s exhibition a success is an understatement.

The vision that encompassed the Yerevan Show as an international jewelry industry hub has already begun to materialize.

Some of this year’s exhibitors were: Nishi (Hong Kong), Canadian Gem (Canada), Gem Corp (Canada), Eberhard, Alpina, Marvin, Grovana (Switzerland), Tellus, Moog (France), Bergio (USA), Waskoll (France), Bagjewelry (Turkey), Gevorgian

14 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

(Russia), Adamant (Russia), Sartoro (Thailand), Aren Style (Turkey), Orofasma (Greece), Zorab Creation (Lebanon), Malo (Canada), Estet (Russia), Davtyan Designs and “Gnomon” Jewelry Plant (Yerevan).

Adding to the roster of exhibitors this year were over a dozen Turkish Armenian jewelers, including an official delegation from the Turkish Jewelry Association headed by the president of the Istanbul Jewelers Council, Alaatin Kameroglu.

Also in attendance were CIBJO (World Jewelry Confederation) President, Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri and Bill Boyajian of the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), who is largely credited for taking the prestigious institute to its pre-eminent global position today.

The success of this year’s Yerevan Show brings much credit to AJA members’ competence, talent and conviction.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 15

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CELEBRATION

W

hether it’s the renewing power of the California sun or the beautiful Jersey Shore, AJA marked 15 years of growth, success and development.

The creativity of its entrepreneurs and the outstanding representation of art, design and finery of Armenian American jewelers was recognized and reveled in December, 2012 as AJA West Coast and AJA East Coast organized a dinner gala to mark the establishment of AJA in the United States.More than 200 guests gathered at the Glendale Hilton on Sunday, December 9th, 2012 for an evening of fine dining and entertainment. The gala dinner served as a great opportunity to recall the many successes of the past years and take inventory of the collective talent and expertise of the Los Angeles market. On the other coast, over 150 guests gathered at the Waterside Restaurant in New Jersey to mark the establishment of AJA East Coast. Minutes away from Manhattan on the east and Philadelphia on the west, New Jersey was the ideal central location to bring together Armenian-American jewelers spread across the east coast states including New York, Boston,

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COAST TO COAST

new

york

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APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 19

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CELEBRATION Philadelphia and Delaware. “The United States of America is one of the world’s centers of culture, entertainment, global business and higher education. It is also home to the largest Armenian

population outside of Armenia—a population comprised of established, professional, educated and hardworking Armenian-Americans who are intertwined into the fabric of America,” said Gagik Gevorkyan, President of the Armenian Jewellers Association. “In this large population of talented Armenians, we have a strong and pulsating community of Armenian jewelers who play in integral role in the growth and success of our industry. I commend and congratulate the leadership of AJA West Coast and AJA East Coast on this milestone celebration.

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COAST TO COAST

LOS ANGELES

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APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 21

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he Premiere of the Co/art exhibition, organized by the Armenian Jewelry (JEWELLERY) Association of France, under the high patronage of his excellency, Mr. Charles Aznavour, Permanent Representative of the Republic of Armenia at UNESCO, was held from February 16-18, 2013 at the Paris Grand Hotel near the Opera House and Place Vendôme.

Twenty-three exhibitors from Armenia and the Diaspora presented their most exquisite pieces of jewelry and watches, which were admired by visitors over the course of three days, under high security.

A gala dinner was held on Saturday the 16th in the lavish Opera Room of the Grand Hotel. The dinner was accompanied by a musical program.

French Armenian film director Mr. Gerald Papasian was the ideal master of ceremonies and successfully conducted the course of this memorable evening.

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On this occasion, Mr. Papasian spoke not only in Armenian but also in many other languages to welcome guests from around the world (France, Turkey, Greece, USA, Thailand, Armenia, Lebanon…).

He expressed his gratitude on behalf of AJA for the presence of several prominent guests: Mr. Vigen Tchitedjian, Armenian Ambassador to France; Mr. Yuriy Sergeyev, Ukrainian Ambassador to France; Mr. Pavel Latushko, Belarusian Ambassador to France; Alain Terzian, film producer and Chairman of the Academy of Cesar; Mr. Aram Shishmanian, CEO of World Gold Council (London, England).

Mr. Papasian called many of the guests to the stage.

Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan, President of AJA International,

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who had traveled from Moscow specifically for the occasion, expressed his thanks to AJA France for an excellent job organizing the event. He invited the members to join him on stage, namely Mr. Hovel Chenorhokian, Mr. Cyril Waskoll and Houry Simonian. Shortly after, all the Co/Art exhibitors, as well as AJA President Gagik Gevorkyan, gathered for a group photo to commemorate the event.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 23

Events

Several talented Armenian artists also performed at the event: Rouben Elbakian, the Tenor who is also dubbed the “Golden Voice”; Princess Sophie Auduoin-Mamikonian’s daughter Marianne followed with a Jazz interpretation; French actress Claire Conan-Vrinat shared a poem by Vahan Tekeyan Hachvehartar; and lastly Ani Sargsyan, the mezzo-soprano, accompanied by pianist Arthur Aharonian, performed an interpretation of Carmen, an opera by French composer Georges Bizet.

The exhibition came to a close Monday evening on an especially high note, with the presentation of the largest Fancy Yellow Diamond in the world, created by an Armenian. This fascinating masterpiece, estimated at 15 million USD, took nine months to create and included 110 carats.

Aside from the Armenian media, 22 reporters from the French general press were present. Reporters were thrilled to recognize Armenians as masters in “Haute Joaillerie”. They enthusiastically expressed their interest in visiting jewelry workshops in Armenia. A press trip to Yerevan is now being organized for spring.

This first-time event was a huge success and AJA wishes ensuing prosperity and longevity to Co/Art for many years ahead as well as a continuing alliance, which not only encourages expansion in the jewelry 24 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

Events

industry, but also a means to present Armenian talent in varying artistic fields from around the globe.

Exhibitors present at the show included: Aigl’Or (Suisse) - ALM Joaillerie (France) - Artinian (France) - Avedis Kendiz (Turquie) - Backes & Strauss (Royaume Uni) - Bergio (États Unis) - Estet (Russie) Faerber- Collection (Belgique) - Gevorgian (Russie) Moog (France) - Nathalie Sevikian (France) - Nishi pearls (Hong Kong ; Canada) - Orofasma (Grèce) - Peter Tanisman (Suisse) - Sarkis Sahakyan (Arménie) - Sevan Biçakçi (Turquie) - Siera (États Unis) - Tellus (Suisse) Vartan (Egypte) - Waskoll (France)

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 25

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Armenian Jewelry

Industry Development

P rospects O

n October 30th 2012, a conference dedicated to AJA’s 15th anniversary was held in Armenia. The attendees’ comments and opinions pertaining to the prospects of Armenia becoming a regional center in the jewelry industry were very informative.

Minister of Diaspora, Hranush Hakopian, Deputy Minister of Economy, Tigran Harutyunian, AJA members, guests, as well as international representatives of the jewelry industry were all given the floor during the conference.

The President of AJA, Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan, welcomed the participants and emphasized that the main driving force of AJA’s activities is charity.

Keeping in mind the Association’s long-term 26 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2012

objective of developing Armenia’s jewelry industry, Mr. Gevorkyan explained the significance of the Yerevan Show rousing a strong and real interest, so quickly. International exhibitions are the backbone of the jewelry industry, and as such, Mr. Gevorkyan assured everyone that the Yerevan Show will become one of the largest, most prestigious exhibitions in the region within the very near future. The President went on to explain: “AJA is one of the All-Armenian professional organizations, and not to sound conceited, it is one of the most well-established and well-organized ones. The key mission and goal of our organization is to unite Armenian jewelers, diamond and watch producers from all over the world around Armenia.

We are confident that we can achieve greater success in our businesses through cooperation. By combining our potential and uniting our collective experience, we can initiate new projects together,

Events

bring new investments and new prospects towards the development of our motherland. Today, more than ever, there are favorable conditions, as we have the support of the Armenian Government.

And together with the Government, we have developed a joint strategy for the creation of a Jewelry Free Zone in Armenia.”

Former AJA president and CEO of Backes & Strauss, Vartkess Knadjian, took the opportunity to remember all the founding members, the board and executive board members at local, regional and international levels, as well as all who had the vision and courage to take up the call of the Association and make history.

Mr. Knadjian said: “Looking back on the 15 years, it is easy to be critical of what was achieved. However, to me, what is important today is that we are here, celebrating 15 years of the founding of AJA and we are still together. Circumstances have changed and the global economy has evolved and grown. AJA has to address what role it wants to play in the global economy and how it can bring benefits to Armenia.”

One of the most influential experts in the industry, former president of GIA, Bill Boyajian, emphasized the importance of Armenians in the world’s jewelry industry: “The role and influence that Armenians have played in the jewelry industry is significant, and their impact on our trade continues to expand.

Some of the great jewelry and watch brands of today have been created by Armenian

entrepreneurs who are committed to quality and excellence in all they do. Efforts like the establishment of the Armenian Jewellers Association only 15 years ago and the Yerevan Jewelry Show only last year, help to foster knowledge, understanding, and appeal for jewelry created by those who share our heritage.”

Minister of Diaspora Hranush Hagopian affectionately welcomed AJA members and Yerevan Show attendees. She expressed her hope that AJA, with the help of its members, can do much in unifying Armenians around one idea-—to develop the motherland’s industry.

The main prerequisite for Armenian jewelry industry development is the establishment of the Free Economic Zone (FEZ) in Armenia. Within the framework of the conference, Deputy Minister of Economy, Mr. Harutyunian, presented his suggestions of necessary steps which need to be taken in order to create a free economic zone: “Russia, Kazakhstan, Ukraine are strategic partners for Armenia. The Free economic zone in Armenia will give Armenian jewelry manufacturers a chance to expand and importers to find promising business opportunities in Armenia.”

Vladimir Mozman, President of the Russian Guild of Jewelers, explained what the Republic of Armenia should offer investors today: “Goals must be clearly defined. The main ones are: The mobilization of foreign capital, adoption of advanced technologies and international management experience. This is what will ensure employment for the population and increase foreign monetary inflow into the RA”.

OCTOBER 2012 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 27

Main Topic

The history of the expansion of the jewelry industry in Lebanon is only a century old but the cause of that growth which has long sustained Lebanon’s stance as the country’s primary exporter dates back to a people and a profession that took it roots in Armenia. The development of the industry was in fact, the direct consequence of Ottoman Turkey’s genocide of the Armenian people. In 1915, this horrific chapter in our history resulted in Armenians moving to Lebanon and bringing along with them the skills of jewelry making.

Main Topic

Main Topic

Tracing the Steps of the Armenian Lebanese Heritage Returning to the Point of Departure

Main Topic

Boghos Kurdian

T

Known for their craftsmanship, Armenian professionals established themselves as the leaders of JEWELRY INDUSTRY in Lebanon.

he history of the expansion of the jewelry industry in Lebanon is only a century old, but the cause of that growth which has long sustained Lebanon’s position as the country’s primary exporter dates back to a people and profession that is rooted in Armenia. The development of the industry was in fact, the direct consequence of Ottoman Turkey’s genocide of the Armenian people. In 1915, this horrific chapter in our history resulted in Armenians moving to Lebanon and bringing along with them the skills of jewelry-making.

Known for their craftsmanship, Armenian professionals established themselves as leaders of the jewelry industry. Boghos Kurdian, President of the Syndicate of Expert Goldsmiths and Jewelers, explains: “By the 70’s, the profession reached its peak and Armenians had taken over the market with their trade, not just in Lebanon. They had also won awards in Europe for their unique designs and excellence in quality.”

The civil war in 1975 triggered a migration, driving talented people to flee the country. But Mr. Kurdian points out: “Yes, I can say that we did lose some because of the war, some of the Armenian businessmen were forced to leave and yet others stayed. In fact, Armenian jewelers contributed greatly during the war thanks to

their profession. They helped the community. They did a lot. They gave to churches, they gave to schools and community centers. I can say that 25% of the contributions were made by our jewelers.”

Even now, despite the recent political developments, from the Arab Spring to rising gold prices, the jewelry industry in Lebanon still maintains its 35% share of the country’s total exports. In value terms, that share amounts $1.5 billion which is 23% more than base metals and articles of base metal.

Even in the exporting field, Mr. Kurdian proudly states: “I can say that Armenians are the ones who expanded the industry outside of Lebanon by opening businesses worldwide.”

They say, “all roads lead to Rome”, but in the case of the jewelry profession, Mr. Kurdian wishes that road would lead his goldsmiths back to their root, to Armenia.

“I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to AJA for its efforts to gather all the jewelers, the Armenian jewelers in this profession together, to have a common and central meeting point. For all the riches this profession provides, there is no other race that has a similar association. In all the major cities around the world, we are present and we should keep paving that road towards the homeland, towards Armenia, so the profession could return to its motherland.”

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 31

Faces

A Master

Teacher and Mentor

Hrair TSerunian

C

ompetence and great skill in the jewelry profession are just simply not innate. They demand time, training and dedication from those who wish to enter the vocation. And every apprentice’s dream is to learn from one of the greats.

“There is no one like him in the world. He is unique, no one comes close to his character. I am very proud.

We all pale in comparison to this man!” says Zorab Istamboulian about his teacher and mentor, Hrair Tserunian.

At the age of 92, when most people have long retired, Mr. Tserunian is still very active and present in the Armenian jeweler’s community in Lebanon.

32 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

“I taught and trained many students and I am proud of them. There are over forty jewelers that trained under me and are working all over the world today. I have former students who are now in Australia, America, Switzerland, and even one in Bangkok!”

They say people who love their work feel a sense of community. Individuals who are focused on helping other people rather than glorifying themselves tend to feel especially happy about their vocation. We sense that very quickly with Mr. Tserunian.

Unlike other masters who might not like to teach the profession fully and prefer to keep key points to themselves, believing the new generation of jewelers

Faces

might become their rivals in the future, Mr. Tserunian derives satisfaction and pride from teaching. There is something very peaceful and content about him.

As he reflects on his past, he recounts the path that led him where he is today. “I came to this part of the world first in February of 1947, but I found work in Damascus, so I stayed there until the last day of 1949.

It was on the first day of the year 1950 that I came here to Lebanon.”

Asides from teaching, Mr. Tserunian still creates beautiful Armenian themed pieces of jewelry, although he says he’s not always able to: “Personally, I have

always wanted to infuse the Armenian spirit into my work. But you know, the catalog comes, customers order what they want and your are obligated to make that piece. Especially today, the models and designs are so commercial, they are void of art and craftsmanship. It used to be a lot better back in the day.”

To show us what he means by “infusing the Armenian spirit,” the master delicately unveils his masterpiece: A jewel encrusted cross especially made and to be worn only by His Holiness Aram I, Catholicos of Cilicia. We are silenced and humbled as his message resonates loud and clear.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 33

Golden roots

Anjar B

eirut may be the capital of Lebanon, but if you’ve ever read The Forty Days of Musa Dagh, then surely when you think of Lebanon, you think Anjar.

The residents of this village are the descendants of genocide surviors and more importantly, their ancestors are the heroic characters in Franz Werfel’s epic novel who valiantly took to the mountains and refused to be deported and massacred by the Ottoman army in 1915. They repeatedly thwarted attacks on Musa Dagh until they were finally rescued by a French ship. There is much history in this village and so much more to be proud of.

When we visit Anjar today, we see the beauty, the nature, the historical ruins, the cleanliness and we

34 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

Golden roots

enjoy its fresh air and sweet water which makes it almost impossible for us to imagine the Anjar of 1915: marshlands, mosquitos, contaminated swamps, no sanitary systems which eventually infected the newly settled Armenians of Musa Dagh with dysentery.

Hardship is nothing new for Armenians.

It is in our nature to face them and overcome. As William Saroyan wrote: “It is simply in the nature of Armenians to study, to learn, to question, to speculate, to discover, to invent, to revise, to restore, to preserve, to make, and to give.”

And that’s exactly what the Armenians in Anjar did.

The AGBU distributed tents. They made toilets

from wood. All the adult males along with a contractor participated in building houses. They brought in a French doctor to help the diseased population. Medical volunteers distributed supplies.

They established hygiene policies and kept the premises clean. They established The Karaguesian clinic, they built the Haratch elementary school, and established the St. Paul Apostolic church.

These former marshlands have become today’s summer vacation spots for many as the number of residents nearly doubles during the summer months and the village is bustling.

We caught up with a few residents and visited their workshops, their ateliers from where these highly skilled and talented goldsmiths produce their work.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 35

Golden roots

Sarkis Shannakian

First Armenian Citizen in Anjar

A

casual conversation with Bedig Garikian in his atelier in Anjar, Lebanon, where he was working on a few gold pieces for Syrian customers, led to an interesting discovery. Bedig, a native of Anjar, declared: “Yes, I am the first person in Anjar to become a citizen of Armenia.”

How did that come about, you might ask? It is a story rooted deep in his childhood and “something that burned in my heart for years!”

As a young student in Syria, one day his teacher insisted that he declare himself to be Arab. When Bedig replied that he was not an Arab, the teacher said: “what does your citizenship say? It says Lebanese. In which language are your documents written? Arabic. So you’re an Arab!”

The argument continued. He said: “I hit my teacher and was promptly expelled from school.“ He waited for the day when he would be able to get a document from Armenia, so next time, someone would question his nationality, his identity or force him to agree to say he is an Arab, he would be able to pull out his document and say: ”Here! Look, I am ARMENIAN!” During his youth, Armenia was a Soviet Republic.

36 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

But once the homeland got its independence, he quickly went there, along with his wife and got his Armenian citizenship.

This proud Armenian is a master craftsman in his trade but admits that “nowadays with new technology, there is less value in handworked pieces.

That art form has disappeared, everything is done by machines, the Matrix software on a computer.“ When asked about his thoughts on the future of his work, Bedig is undecided whether this technology is good or bad.

“I don’t know, I’m not sure,“ he says.

“Look at this ring, it is handmade. If I were to make this ring by computer, I could get it done in 2 hours, but then I have to send it to Beirut. By the time the wax model gets back to me, and I prepare it and all the work is done, I could have done it in one day by hand. But if had an order of 15 of the same piece, then it is better with the computer as each one will be a 100% exact match. In that case, it is better, it is easier to work with the computer.”

Clearly, there are the pros and cons to both manual and computerized ways of getting the job done. As Mr.Garikian points out, it depends on the job in question, or rather, the specifics of the order.

Golden roots

R

Raffi Andonian

Peace: Better Business Solution

affi Andonian may do most of his work in diamonds and gold for big city clients in Damascus and Beirut, but he prefers the quieter, happier and more comfortable life in the village of Anjar.

“I had lived in Beirut before but I came back here 13 years ago. I feel more comfortable here, it is less populated, there’s more room,“ he says with an honest smile. “Here, wherever you go, there are Armenians. We are all Armenians and I feel good, relaxed.”

Raffi seems quite content with a peaceful life in Anjar where the children are safely in school and the men at work, but he is very concerned about the neighboring cities and countries, with which he does a lot of business.

“We do have local customers, we also get work from clients in Beirut and Damascus, but as you know, with the situation in Syria now, our workload from there has decreased.“ His answer as to how to possibly remedy this situation and increase business in Anjar for jewelers is quite simple: “Peace. Business will of course become better if our neighboring cities and countries have more peace. Armenians are hard working and skilled, we just need peace.“

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Golden roots

Sarkis Shannakian

Jeweler by Trade, Artist at Heart

S

arkis Shannakian may be a jeweler by trade, but his passion of drawing has not only given him a second profession (he has been teaching art at Haratch School in Anjar for 8 years) but allowed him to use this artistic skill to complement his already established and trusted skill as a jeweler: “For example, I have customers who will give me some beads and ask me to make earrings for them. I draw the design for the piece and begin production at once. The customer trusts me enough to allow me to go straight from my design to production without approving my sketches first.”

Just how passionate is Sarkis about either art?

“I can tell you that even when I am sitting here working in my atelier, half my brain is on the jewelry and the other half on drawing. I can’t say there is a day that goes by without thinking about drawing. Even when I leave work and go home, which is upstairs, I draw a little something, anything but I always have to draw.”

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Golden roots

Future

40 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

Cover jewel

When one has the privilege to come face to face with a Zorab creation, one can only stare in awe and be reminded of how beautiful art can be.

“O

ur jewelry is literally one of a kind, we only make one of each piece,” explains Zorab Atelier de Creation’s founder & CEO, Zorab Istanboulian.

In fact, each piece is serially numbered to preserve its identity and uniqueness.

A trail blazer in his industry, Mr. Istanboulian prides himself in not only producing a new line every 5 to 6 years but that each collection is the result of ideas and imagination eventually being transformed by the artist’s creativity into tangible matter. In this case, they are beautifully sculpted and original masterpieces worn by women all over the world, APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 41

Cover jewel

including major movie stars and celebrities such as: Elizabeth Taylor, Maria Menounos, Eva Mendes, Scarlett Johansen, Katy Perry, and the list goes on.

His company has also been the recipient of many prestigious international awards: International Award for Best Trade name (Vienna, Austria); Gold Award for Excellence and Business Prestige (New York, USA);

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Cover jewel

International Platinum Star for Quality (Madrid, Spain); New Millenium Award for Quality and Excellence (Geneva, Switzerland).

A family-run business for over 50 years, his company employs over 150 skilled workers and craftsmen worldwide helping him continue his endeavor towards creating jewelry of the highest quality and standards, and leading the industry into new directions.

Cover jewel

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Cover jewel

His creations of diamonds and gold infused with rare gems from all over the world create a feeling of east meets west, artistically. The collections are carried

by Elite Fine Jewelry with stores in the USA, Brazil, Turkey, Spain, Italy, Germany, Austria, Greece, Japan, Taiwan, India, Lebanon, and the UAE, at prestigious locations such as Madison Avenue, Beverly Hills and Ritz Carlton Hotels, just to name a few.

Mr. Zorab Istamboulian’s vision has not only transformed metals and gems into valuable pieces of jewelry, but have truly made them into icons!

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Photosession

T Little Armenia in Lebanon

his suburb in NorthEast Beirut, heavily populated by Armenians, is also referred to as Little Armenia.

Bourj Hammoud is situated in the Metn district and is home to 90,000 residents. It was developed mainly in the 1930’s by Armenians who came to Beirut after the Armenian Genocide.

This district is an active commercial pole and industrial and handicraft activities hub. The town is bustling with artisans. You can easily find framers, copper molders, piano restorers, hat makers, cobblers, book binders, potters, sculptors, jewelers, soap makers, antique dealers, calligraphists and tailors. The services aside, the warm hospitality and friendly atmosphere of Bourj Hammoud is infectious and it is no surprise that no one here is a stranger.

Everyone knows each other.

Photosession

Photosession

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T

here are many aspects we can relate to when describing a piece of jewelry. It is a finished product, it is complete, inflexible and as the saying goes, “it is set in stone.�

But not at Dakessian Jewelers.

This fourth generation family business that designs, manufactures, wholesales and retails fine jewelry has done just the opposite. Its pieces are multifaceted, versatile and in the truest sense of the word, transformable.

Reversible rings, necklaces with replaceable hanging pendants, bracelets that open up the width to reveal gems and even rings with interchangeable precious stones. It is quite rare and exciting to view the pieces as one feels a sense of fluidity and freedom.

These ingenious designs of impeccable quality are for those who want the truly original in handcrafted jewelry.

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Always on the cutting edge of the latest in the industry, Mr. Dakessian explains how he keeps abreast. “There are always new ideas. Of course, we also see what’s new out there from magazines.

Our advantage is that we are aware of what’s new and are able to expand on that and exceed it.

The advantage we have is that we are in Lebanon, we are among the best in the profession so we can take an idea, design it with ease and produce it.

There is so much talent here.”

His location seems to be more than just an advantage. Mr. Dakessian professes that Lebanon is the only place where he is able to achieve this level of craftsmanship. “During the civil war we tried to make our businesses work at outside locations but it was not possible. Only Lebanon gives us the way, the means to be able to do this quality of work.”

The only down side he acknowledges is the fact that people in this trade are leaving it and turning to other professions more and more: “I would say this is our biggest problem right now and so we have gathered around AJA to have some meetings, discussions to see if we can figure out a way to help solve this dilemma.”

Fortunately, his son Boghos, is not a part of this dilemma as he has already joined his father’s company. “I have the privilege to be in this business,” he says. “It’s very important for me to continue the name of my family and the business and hopefully bring it to new heights.”

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A

t Yeprem Jewelry, the three siblings, Lutfik, John and Virna have embraced the legacy of their father, Yeprem Shekherdemian, who started the business in 1964. The main atelier and store is located in Bourj Hammoud. They also have a store in downtown Beirut. Speaking with Virna, we get a better sense of who is behind the inspiration for all the glamorous pieces on display.

“I am the designer,” she smiles. “My older brother runs the atelier and my younger brother manages the business.”

Indeed, the jewelry here is not only glamorous but big bold pieces that make a statement. “We cater mostly to Arab countries where the women generally prefer bigger pieces,” Virna says.

The designs are works of art, very fashionable and of the highest craftsmanship. “Our clients greatly appreciate our high standards. From beginning to end, the whole piece transitions through each phase within our shop. It never leaves our premises. We do everything in-house. Our customers can rely on us for clean diamonds and clean work. Everything is done just right.”

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Armenian Signatures

One of the show pieces she designed this year, in keeping with Armenian tradition, is a bracelet inspired by several of our nation’s symbols: Crosstones and pomegranates on the outside and the famous quote by William Saroyan: “When two Armenians meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a new Armenia.”

The Yeprem family cares deeply about the jewelry that bears their name. Their reputation in the neighboring Arab countries is unparalleled, especially to discerning clients. They have built their success by combining their passion, knowledge and creativity.

In fact, when we look at the highclass designs, all the shimmering diamonds, it is difficult to imagine the original way a diamond is even formed. Some as old as 3 billion years, shaped by rock and molten lava, are hard and rough around the edges when first excavated from the earth.

After many phases such as cutting, polishing, heating and shaping, and more importantly, with the assistance of this woman’s artistry, these gifts from nature are transformed into beautiful adornments.

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Georgi Sabounjian 58 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

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S

tanding in front of their large office building, Nazareth and Bedros Sabounjian have much to be proud of. What stands behind them is the result of 42 years of hard work, determination and a strong family.

Unlike most children of jewelers, these two brothers veered slightly away from their father’s and uncle’s paths and created a company in 1969 that specializes not in jewelry but in their cases, displays, boxes as well as the design and manufacture of turnkey stands. They also provide services for moving, assembling and dismantling them.

“As Armenians in Lebanon, Syria or anywhere else in the Western world, we are recognized as hard working, honest and trustworthy people,” explains Nazareth.

I’m sure the path to success did not come easily, not only were you in a foreign country, but compounded with the fact that you had begun with nothing. How did you overcome these challenges?

“Well, nothing comes easily of course, it requires a lot of will, endurance and strength,” says Bedros. “We started at zero, step by step we climbed and it’s with sheer determination that we have reached this level today,” which they wish to pass on to their offsprings.

And this wish is already being realized. “This level that I speak of is at a family level and of course it will stay within the family. Our children have already entered the business.“ APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 59

Armenian Signatures

Another aspect of the future of their business is the suggestion of Armenia becoming a free zone and they are both not only supportive of this initiative but have taken steps towards its realization someday in the future. “It is my opinion that Armenia has many advantages that could be utilized for this opportunity. The main reasons are the following: First, we are talking about a country that has a longstanding history with jewelry and goldsmiths dating back 4 to 5 thousand years. Secondly, the Armenian jeweler has mastered his trade. So we have many reasons for this work to get done in Armenia as well as the financial advantage (production and manufacturing cost less). Imagine how beneficial it would be if we could rally goldsmiths, jewelers, businessmen and owners all together, and bring them to Armenia! It would be extremely beneficial for Armenia’s economy.�

The Sabunjian brothers are among the brightest minds of Lebanon and a prime example of the importance of strong family ties, the love of work and appreciation of what life has to offer.

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Capturing

the Beauty

of Extreme Environments

S

ince 1920, Vartan has been one of the most distinguished houses of jewelry.

This second generation family business is owned and operated today by brothers Harry and Vartan Kazandjian.

With four boutiques in Egypt, the Kazandjian family has opened a fifth one in Beirut, Lebanon.

With an eye for innovation and craftsmanship, Vartan has been designing jewelry that rouse the senses. AJA was privy to some of their breathtaking collections: Sahara – The scenery, the geology, the history, the flora and fauna, and the culture of the people make it a truly unique and enchanting region. It’s hard to imagine this desert, filled with sand dunes, dry valleys, barren stone plateaus and salt flats, was carved out by water and shaped over time by wind.

This place with all its natural wonders was the inspiration behind the breathtaking collection at Vartan. The dramatic collection includes necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings handcrafted by Armenian jewelers. Each piece is meticulously sculpted and

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adorned with gems and stones that reflect the wondrous scenery and colors of the Sahara.

Tassili n’Ajjer, a mountain range in the Algerian section of the Sahara Desert, contains a petrified sandstone forest. It is a place so strange in its beauty that it has been compared to the surface of the moon.

The lunar beauty of the Algerian Sahara may have helped in inspiring the next collection: Crater - There is wonder, raw beauty and romance in the changing phases of moon. It reigns supreme over our world of dreams. It has inspired many captivating myths, dreams and now, the creative vision of Vartan Jewelry.

This stunning collection has captured the essence of the moon, with all its bright scars of meteorite craters and dark, frozen seas of volcanic lava. Lunar contours, edged with shadows have been brought to life using rare gems and stones along with gold and diamonds.

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The piece de resistance, a massive gold ring with a convex bezel set with Uvarovite. This rare bright green garnet from the Urals Region in Russia was discovered in 1832 and named after Sergei Semenovitch Uvarov, President of the Russian academy of sciences 1818-1855.

The garnet family may be one of the largest in the gemstone world but within the five varieties, Uvarovite is the most rare as it is hardly ever found in gemstone quality. The crystals are generally opaque and very seldom will a tiny portion be sufficiently transparent to cut a small gem. The Ural Mountains of Russia yield lovely Uvarovite drusy, which are very tiny crystals that are deposited on a matrix surface.

With its intense energy, Uvarovite is said to link the soul into its universal nature and because it is so rare, it is a very special crystal to give a loved one as it symbolizes what is precious and lasting.

Armenian Signatures

Diamonds weight is 0.56cts G color Vs1 The Rock is 5.4grms equivalent to 27cts and the gold is 18.3 grms 18 kt gold

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Armenian Signatures

Fit for a King, or a Sheik

Y

essayan brothers Krikor and Haroutioun have come a long way from their small workshop in Bourj Hammoud in 1977.

Today, the business boasts four boutiques in Lebanon, most notably a luxurious 8-floor building in Sassine Square in the heart of Achrafieh.

Throughout the years, they did more than just dazzle the Gulf and Saudi markets with their diamonds and designs. They attracted the Sheiks and Princes of the region and began making custom orders.

One such example is a 2-piece diamond encrusted choker made special for a Sheik’s bride to be worn on their wedding day. This exquisite 2-piece design is reminiscent of royalty and prestige.

“We are very famous in the region, they love this

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level of quality. This choker can be worn as is (both pieces clamped) or she can detach it and wear it without the choker. It’s a one-of-a kind piece. We only make one of each,” says Krikor.

The key to their success is perfection. From the initial design phase to the final creation, there is a team of highly skilled artists who work on every detail with unparalleled precision.

What qualities make a piece a masterpiece?

“You should always use white diamonds like G plus or H and VS quality to get a high luster. This bride will have a bright shine on her wedding day!”

They may be catering to Sheiks today, but the Yessayan brothers haven’t forgotten the paths they paved for themselves and are grateful to be in the position they are in now. “We started very slow and

Armenian Signatures

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Armenian Signatures

very small in the business. But what we became is the result of 33 years of chasing this business.”

On their Armenian heritage, Krikor adds, “First of all, we are honored to be Armenian and in the jewelry trade. This is inherited from our ancestors who came from Istanbul during the Armenian genocide. They

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slowly established themselves here. We, Armenians, started as laborers initially in Lebanon and now we have big factories. We became the owners. We are all in good shape. We have trustworthy and quality designs, reputations, brands and worldwide recognition.”

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In a Class by Itself

M

elkon Hagopian, founder of Hagopian Jewels, has been among the most accomplished and distinguished jewelers

Melkon Hagopian

since 1951.

“My work table is my reason for living. It allows me to discover and create something new every day.”

With an artist’s imagination and creativity, he conceives ideas that materialize into works of art. Never influenced by ever changing fashions, his designs are always inspired from within.

The master craftsman produces distinctive pieces by combining fancy gems, semi precious stones and South-Sea pearls with 18 karat gold. Each piece is sculpted to perfection according to the gem’s shape and form.

Inspired by their father’s passion and drive,

Melkon’s sons have joined the business and are carrying on the family name. Staying true to their heritage of enduring beauty, quality and uniqueness, the two brothers create original pieces that are tomorrow’s heirlooms.

With a hands-on approach, each stage of the creation process is meticulously supervised. From selection, purchasing, to hand-polishing the jewels, the final masterpiece becomes an engraved emblem of the House of Hagopian. The commitment to excellence extends to their loyal customers who are provided with the highest level of customer service.

At Hagopian Jewels, the precious commodity is not the stone, but the discerning customer who appreciates the timeless beauty of an authentic Hagopian jewel.

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A Golden I nvestment

W

hen it comes to gold, Armenians have become masters at not only using it to create distinctive jewelry but also being able to recognize its time-tested value as a commodity. In fact, history shows us that gold is actually a currency. It is the only one that evolved in the marketplace over the last 5,000 years.

This precious metal has gained its reputation among the Armenian people for many reasons: It is indestructible as it does not tarnish or decay over time. It is compact, malleable and divisible.

You can easily mold it into jewelry, coins or bars.

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You can also divide it into many pieces to be used as currency. And lastly, it is rare and hard to find, although you would not think that in Lebanon.

Only about 5 parts per billion of the earth’s crust is comprised of gold and the mining has increased, at the best of times, rarely more than 2% per year.

This slow increase makes gold hard to manipulate when compared to the inflation of other currencies whose values are based on government decree.

This knowledge and expertise has made Hadidian Jewelers, located on Armenia street in Bourj Hammoud, one of Lebanon’s largest distributors of the precious metal.

“My father started the company in the 1940’s, but during the civil war most businesses folded. We came here and started it all over again in 1979,” remarks Vasken Hadidian.

This second generation business in already transitioning into its third.

“My brother and I represent the second generation and my nephews are already involved in the business so we have a third generation already present.”

Bourj Hammoud may not offer the urban life more common in Beirut, but in Mr. Hadidian’s opinion, “we feel more at home here. I mean, yes, we are in Lebanon, we feel Lebanese but we feel safe here, free.”

Although his profile in the business is already influential, Mr. Hadidian expresses his wishes for AJA to become bigger, to grow and to be more active. “As far as our homeland, we wish to be helpful to Armenia and that Armenia will open some doors for us as well.”

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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++Armenian Signatures ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++ Armenian Signatures+++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ he Boghos SAL +++ company which +++ specializes in precious +++ +++ metals and money +++ exchange is the product +++ of seven generations of Armenian +++ fathers passing the torch to their +++ sons. The father back then, or rather +++ +++ their great great great grandfather +++ started in this profession in Mardin, +++ Armenia in 1812 and by the time +++ Joseph Boghosian’s father was born, it +++ was time to leave their beloved +++ +++ homeland. +++ “My father and uncle survived the +++ genocide when they were 4 and 2 +++ years old respectively. Their mother +++ and grandmother hid them until +++ +++ 1922. They didn’t see the light of day +++ for years. They were kept hidden +++ indoors until they moved to Deir Zor, +++ Syria, and during the early 60’s, we +++ came to Lebanon because of the +++ +++ economic conditions in Syria.” +++ The family started the company in +++ Lebanon almost from scratch when +++ the eldest brother was 24 years old. +++ “Our youngest sibling was six years +++ +++ old; we were seven brothers and one +++ sister when we started. This +++ profession is in our genes, we are +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

T

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++Armenian Signatures ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ designed for it,“ he smiles confidently. “We eventually ++++ started branching out with one sibling working as a jeweler, ++++ another one specializing in precious stones, and another ++++ ++++ working with pearls. But this branch is the biggest.” ++++ Today, the company has two separate offices: one dealing ++++ with precious metals and the other strictly for money ++++ exchange (located in Dora). ++++ Isn’t it stressful to be in the gold exchange business with ++++ ++++ the price of gold rising and dropping? Isn’t it risky? ++++ “Yes, but the smart jeweler is not a gambler. A gambler ++++ always loses in the end and that is exactly why we have ++++ another company that is run by one of our nephews. He is ++++ in finance and gives consultations and provides financial ++++ ++++ advice to make sure our clients are always winners! And I ++++ believe to date, all of our customers are winners.“ ++++ Aside from the diligence and hard work, Mr. Boghosian ++++ firmly believes one of the main reasons for the family’s ++++ success comes from the fact that they are Armenian. ++++ ++++ “We, Armenians are loved in all countries, we have a very ++++ good reputation in this business. When people hear that ++++ you are Armenian, it means they can work with you. You ++++ will find many big companies here in Beirut and they have ++++ opened shop here because the reputation of Armenians ++++ ++++ made that possible.” ++++ And these brothers are Armenians in the legal sense of ++++ the word as well. They are Armenian citizens. ++++ “Yes! We are proud and happy to be citizens of Armenia, ++++ our homeland!” ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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Armenian Signatures

L

ocated at street level entrance of the ABNAmro Tower in Achrafieh, the Tufenkjian Freres’ Jewelry house is impressive before one even enters. The massive doors have a castle like feel and one already has an idea of what to expect inside the palatial store: Jewelry fit for royalty!

The three brothers, Laurence, Ivan and Gerard are the men behind this prestigious company and they credit their father, Leon Tufenkjian, who founded the jewelry house a hundred years ago. “At the time it was a small atelier where he worked by

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Armenian Signatures

himself and had a few helpers. Later it grew to almost 100 employees. Today, we still have many small ateliers with 5 to 10 workers at each location,“ explains Laurence.

The highly skilled jewelers they employ manufacture pieces that cater to varying tastes. “The women in Lebanon prefer to wear pieces during the day; they don’t like to wait for an evening out to put on their jewelry. They have very good taste. Then we have the Arab market. They purchase bigger, bolder pieces and buy according to their means and budget, of course.

Lebanese people travel a lot so they are exposed to

different fashions. Their taste in jewelry is influenced by this. They know what they want, so it’s both difficult and easy in the sense that they are very specific but they know exactly what they are looking for, which makes our job easier.”

The impression and trust that clients have when it comes to Armenians in the jewelry business is unprecedented. “When Lebanese people want to buy jewelry, they always want to purchase it from an Armenian. We have earned their trust. It is a great

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responsibility and an even greater honor.”

Mr. Laurence Tufenkjian is both a proud Armenian and Lebanese citizen. “We want to preserve and protect the Armenian community in Lebanon so they won’t leave. It is a beautiful country. It accepted us with open arms and we have been able to live very well in this country. We live as equals among them.”

Referring to the civil war in Lebanon that lasted nearly 25 years, he adds: “We are very satisfied and happy to live here, even though we went through some difficult years. But we never closed our doors, not for one day, and nor did we leave. One of our strengths is

that we stayed and struggled in Lebanon. Many left, but we wanted to stay and maintain our business here.”

Loyalty and confidence have become synonymous with their name: “The trust that we have today takes years to achieve. It is something you build with time.

But you can lose it in one day,” explains Gerard Tufenkjian.

And what is the secret behind their success?

“Well, it is a secret,” smiles Gerard, “and so it must be kept that way. I don’t give away my secrets!“

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Armenian Signatures

GOLDEN

DESERT-

BOYAJIAN

F

or over 30 years, Golden Desert – Boyadjian Brothers’ jewelry has been synonymous with beauty and glamour. Their expertise and knowledge in design has earned them a prominent name in the gold and jewelry industry.

Perfection means sparing no effort and Golden Desert dedicates all the care and time needed to create flawless jewelry. By using traditional handdrawing and drafting methods, their designers create exquisite pieces that are inimitable in beauty, precision and quality. They guarantee the accuracy, detailing, strength and durability of each piece they manufacture.

The company’s success is attributed to producing the most elegant hand made jewelry in the region

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with the highest standards of quality. With over 350 employees, Golden Desert is constantly growing by challenging themselves to excel in all aspects of the business: designing, manufacturing, marketing and retailing.

Brothers Mardiros and Vasken, who founded the company in 1979, have a long-standing presence in the region. Their history has allowed them to be very familiar with the tastes and demands of the clientele. And by catering to those needs, they helped set the highest standards in authentic design and craftsmanship.

With their unique stamp of creativity, the Boyadjian Brothers transform an initial draft into an artistic masterpiece. Their vibrant designs have international appeal, with just the right touch of the Orient!

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Jewelry In the Genes

U

nlike the many generational family jewelry businesses in Lebanon, Armanor is the result of brothers Ara and Ari Mher Dakessian’s vision of manufacturing and retailing exquisite jewelry.

“We got together in 1987 and started a small workshop with approximately 125g of gold. We are thankful today as we have a business which employs approximately 25 to 30 people.”

In 1995, the business moved to a new location and started taking on clients launching them in the jewelry market. By 2003, the brothers had already opened their first retail store, where their exclusive designs were on display. Barely a year later, they opened a second retail location in Bhamdoun, and a third in City Mall in 2009.

Speaking about the expansion, Ari explains how initially they had planned on expanding more globally, but “we stayed mostly in Arab countries because

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America and Europe are pretty far and require so much more effort than dealing with Arab countries. It was a lot easier and quicker to do business with Arab countries. We were able to really shine there.”

The company now even boasts a new headquarter and outlet in Beirut comprised of a showroom, administrative departments, and atelier.

Their designs cater mostly to Arab taste and preference. “The jewelry here is more geared towards European styles. They are more original and unique to Arab clientele. Even as Armenians, our taste here is more in line with Arab people, and we cater to it.”

Ari is not phased by the lack of Armenian themed jewelry in his collections. In fact, he feels it is because they are Armenian that they are able to produce such fine jewelry. “Because we are Armenian, and we think in Armenian, we are a people who have been expelled from lands some of which no longer even exist today and yet we made it work, because we are Armenians!“

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AJA wings

Armenian Signatures

V

artan Papazian started out in a small workshop in Beirut in 1960 by taking special orders from private customers. His unique hand made creations quickly gained popularity and within years, the atelier expanded. He began taking on apprentice jewelers and teaching them the trade. His dedication was also passed down to his two sons, Hagop and Khachig, who today have not only joined the family business, but have helped VHP Jewelry expand even further.

As manufacturers, the company works with ultra sophisticated machines imported from Italy. From lasers to polishing equipment, their machines produce high quality designs with absolute perfection.

VHP Jewelry’s one-a-kind pieces are also retailed around the world. In fact, Viken Torrosian of Viken’s Jewelry Manufacturing Co., an apprentice he trained in Beirut now represents their line in Los Angeles. Their collections are also retailed in Paris, Kuwait, Jeddah and Sidney.

The company prides itself on customer satisfaction.

Each creation is meticulously designed by an expert craftsman. The result is eye candy. From colorful delicate bracelets highlighted with a precious stone to bold golden chokers inlaid with diamonds, the Papazians’ creations can easily seduce the proverbial “window shopper” to take the next step!

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Horology

Gemology

Creating

Success

SUCCESSION Alex Fattal & SON

Mr.

Alex Fattal has been working in the diamond business for the past 50 years. He is the third in this 4th generation

business.

“My father, my grandfather, were all in the same trade and we continue. My son is now following after me.“ While a jeweler buys and sells finished pieces with a broad variety of gemstones, a diamond dealer or diamantaire buys and sells loose stones.

“We deal mostly in diamonds, about 90%, and 10% in rubies, sapphires and emeralds. We don’t make much jewelry, very little, but we sell wholesale diamonds. That’s our main trade,” Mr. Fattal said.

And the market is big in Lebanon. “Lebanon is a manufacturing place. After the pieces get made in Lebanon, they sell the goods to different Arab countries, Europe or America but they make it here. That’s why the diamond wholesaler’s business is so important here. Maybe not in other countries, it may not be that important because they don’t have manufacturing.”

Mr. Fattal points out that most of the manufacturers are “hard working Armenian jewelers.”

“Everyone knows that Armenians are famous

92 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

craftsmen. Actually, Armenians started the jewelry trade in Lebanon. There are some Lebanese, others, who have entered the trade, the business, but the manufacturers, those who work with their hands are mostly Armenians,” Mr. Fattal said.

With his son standing nearby, Mr. Fattal says how proud he is that his son is starting to take over slowly.

“This is how life goes on. This is what we try to give to our children, this knowledge we pass down and we encourage them to do business all over the world, especially what we are trying to do with Armenia.” In fact, Mr. Fattal already has some diamond cutting set up in the homeland.

His son Gary added, “It has been a pleasure for me to carry on this work and it’s a challenge also. Today we have challenges from all over the world. We have competition from other countries such as China and India, who are trying to get into this business.”

He stressed one of the main goals for Armenians is to keep their place in the market as many countries today are realizing the importance of the jewelry sector in their economy.

Like his father, he too embraces AJA’s efforts to unite the Armenians and bring them to this new frontier: the global market.

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Horology

Harout Missirian

All for the Association the Association for all

T

his is the message that Harout Missirian, one of the founding members of AJA, hopes to get across. Born and raised in Lebanon, Mr. Missirian originally emigrated to Greece during the civil war.

After receiving his education at the American University there, he moved to the US, but promptly returned, “when things settled down.”

And it was in Los Angeles that he began his career as a jeweler: “When I went to the Unites States, the first thing I did was look for Armenians. Most of them are jewelers. So I had to knock on some doors to get a job. I was employed by Armenians originally from Syria and Lebanon. I worked in the pearl business.”

Mr. Missarian is both proud and humble as he shares his thoughts on the current and future status of AJA: 94 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

Horology

“AJA is very strong with its members and AJA will become even stronger with the unification of its members and in trying to achieve the same goals. That is AJA’s biggest strength. Regardless of the projects, the key is the association of its members.”

He reiterates his one and only message of “all for the Association and the Association for all,” by adding: “We should all work for the good of the association and the association must work for the good of all.”

What can the association do for its members?

“The Association is a moral entity, and this is where I see differently. As a moral entity, it has an obligation to bring people together. When it is well organized, it has projects and plans that can give to different work groups who can work in their own way and the association would then represent the weight and core to fight for those with needs.”

Although he feels Armenians in Armenia have come a long way especially during the past 15 years and that the progress is enormous in varying sectors of industries (construction, fashion, tourism), he adds: “I think the jewelry business is coming along, therefore, we thought we could contribute to its progress. We would bring Armenians from all over the world to the same point of departure which is Armenia.”

Do you think AJA members are interested in an opportunity for Armenia to become a regional

center for the jewelry business, like Dubai, for example, or CIS countries?

“I look forward to that, and I am wholeheartedly dedicated to that, even though sometimes I work behind the scenes. Yes, I think it can play a great role, especially in the CIS region. Dubai is very good for the Middle East. It has become a global hub, but why?

Thanks to open mindedness, good organization, infrastructure, and possibilities.”

Mr. Missirian stresses that the same elements must be applied for Yerevan to become a center like Dubai and the work of the association must be done with a clear objective and not for pride.

“We should remain humble despite our achievements which should be for everyone’s good.”

He points out the importance of a strong infrastructure within the AJA to be utilized as a marketing strategy. He brings as an example the ease with which one can operate a business in Dubai. The same model could be applied in Yerevan, making it just as easy for someone to go there and within a week to 10 days establish a company, have a residence, import goods, and open an office.

“These are the little details we have to overcome. In this global economy, we must open ourselves up to more than just Armenians and join the global market place!”

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 95

Interview

Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri President, CIBJO Yerevan, October 29, 2012

RENOWN LEADING PROFESSIONAL CALLS AJA YEREVAN SHOW A HUGE SUCCESS AJA: Dr. Cavalieri, you visited Armenia this year and participated in the Yerevan Show 2012. What were your impressions?

GC: I was honored to be in the historic city of Yerevan and to attend the Yerevan International Jewelry Show. I congratulate the Armenian Jewelers’ Association and its members and acknowledge the excellent work that they are doing to promote the industry in Armenia and internationally.

I was most impressed with what I saw. Armenia clearly is not only becoming an important market in its own right, but also has the potential to become a major springboard for Western and Asian jewelry, gemstone producers seeking to reach Central and Eastern Europe markets and the Asian countries that once were part of the Soviet Union. The Yerevan International Jewelry Show could well become a showpiece for the entire region.

AJA: What parallels can you draw between the jewelry industry in Armenia and Italy?

GC: As an Italian, I know what it is like to be associated with the jewelry industry simply by virtue of my nationality. But we are not alone, of course. The Armenian diaspora is known all over the world as a jewelry community. Over the years, I have made many friends including some who attended the Yerevan Show. I am pleased to have finally experienced the real Armenia.

AJA: In such a volatile business environment, what do you forecast for the international Jewelry sector?

GC: Despite the difficult economic times afflicting a 96 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

large part of the world, I am generally greatly optimistic about the prospects of our business.

Over the past 20 years, we have witnessed the greatest and most rapid shift in economic power in the history of the human race from North America and Western Europe to the Asian economic giants of China, as well as a number of other developing economies. However, this process is not characterised by one side becoming wealthier at the expense of the other. Economic strength and buying power has spread to a larger range of consumers. For the luxury product sector, like the jewelry industry, this is very good news!

According to the Luxury Market Study conducted

by Bain & Company, the value of jewelry sales on a worldwide scale will stand at $180 billion by the end of 2014. This is approximately twice the value of jewelry sales in 2000.

What distinguishes the growth of the jewelry market in countries like India and China is the degree of saturation in the buying culture on a grassroots level. That type of growth most often depends upon the local jewelry industry. By design, both India and China have witnessed a massive investment in jewelry marketing and retail infrastructure over the past 10 years. Rest assured—the money is well spent because jewelry buying is addictive. The most reliable predictor that consumers will buy fine jewelry is a prior investment. The more one owes, the more one treasures the significance and value of fine jewelry.

AJA: In 2012, CIBJIO welcomed the Armenian Jewelers Association into its family. How will this

Interview

partnership affect AJA members in the global market?

GC: We would like to view ourselves as the “United Nations of the jewelry business.” We represent the interests of all individuals, organizations and companies earning their livelihood from Jewelry, gemstones, pearls and other previous organic materials, as well as precious metals.

Our membership is largely comprised of national jewelry trade organizations representing 43 countries.

We cover the entire jewelry, gemstone and precious metals sectors vertically, from mine to marketplace, and geographically, in various production, manufacturing and trading centres.

Full membership in CIBJO is open to all national jewelry organizations. In the event that several associations exist, equal representation in CIBJO is established after an application and approval process

by CIBJO’s Executive Committee.

AJA: What does membership in CIBJO entail for the Armenian Jewelers Association?

First off, we are pleased to welcome AJA as a new “commercial member.” Many of the international jewelry sector’s leading corporations and service providers, including mining companies, diamond, gemstone and jewelry companies, trade show organizations, gem labs, security and logistics firms and others are also affiliated to CIBJO through commercial membership.

Membership in CIBJO provides AJA with access and a united voice among the very highest decisionmaking authorities of the international jewelry

industry. In the modern business environment, where geographic borders are less likely to represent an artificial trade barrier, complementing standards, business practices and terminology is absolutely essential. We also take pride in our efforts to expand the international trade show footprint, which remains integral to the industry’s sales and educational advancement. One of the many achievements at the 2011 CIBJO Congress in Italy was the establishment of the International Trade Fair Commission. I look forward to AJA’s contributions to its progress and development.

AJA: Who comprises the CIBJIO supreme decision-making body?

GC: It is the Assembly of Delegates which includes delegates representing both National Associations and Commercial Members. The Assembly of Delegates also elects the Board of Directors from which a smaller Executive Committee is created. It also elects the President who is supported by a President’s Council, which is made up of CIBJO office holders and leading industry members from around the world.

Each country appoints representatives to participate in three sectors or areas of interest. They are Sector A (gem materials, trade and laboratories); Sector B (jewelry distribution) and Sector C (jewelry manufacturing/technology/precious metals). Daily responsibilities are assigned to various commissions, created to focus on specific areas of interest. Current CIBJO Commissions include the Diamond Commission, Colored Stone Commission, Pearl APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 97

Interview

Commission, Precious Metals Commission, Gemmology Commission, Ethics Commission, Education & Marketing Commission, Association Executive Networking Commission and International Trade Fair Commission. Also operating are a Coral Working Group and a Security, Logistics and Insurance Working Group.

AJA: What are CIBJO’s primary activities?

GC: The harmonization of industry standards has been a critical element of CIBJO’s mission and remains at the heart of its efforts to protect consumer confidence. We support initiatives and programs that address threats to our business, such as money laundering; questionable gemmological and assaying standards, and fraudulent activity. We stay abreast on health issues as they may arise in the mines or factories, damage to the environment, most specifically in developing counties where the mining and industrial regulatory systems are often lax, and employment practices, particularly where the hiring of children is involved.

As mentioned before, advancing universal standards and terminology is also a top priority. CIBJO developed its Blue Book system which entails a definitive set of standards for the grading, methodology and nomenclature of diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls and other organic materials, precious metals and gemmological laboratories.

In 2006, the CIBJO Blue Book was relied upon by a panel of three judges in a district court in Munich, Germany, which issued a restraining order to the 98 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

German distributor of gem-quality synthetic diamonds, to cease using the term “cultured diamonds” when marketing its products to the public.

Legal commentators have suggested that since the ruling has taken place within the jurisdiction of a member country of the European Union, the verdict most probably has legal authority in other EU countries. As part of its mission, CIBJO continues to raise the level of knowledge and professional expertise of members of the international jewelry industry.

AJA: In 2006, CIBJO became the sole organization in the international diamond, gemstone and jewelry sector to receive official consultative status with the United Nations. What does this status mean?

GC: The status enables CIBJO, on behalf of the international gemstone and jewelry industries, to advance the programs and goals of the United Nations by serving as a technical expert, adviser and consultant to governments and the UN Secretariat.

At the CIBJO Congress in Cape Town, South Africa, in March 2007, we specifically addressed the jewelry industry’s role in advancing sustainable economies in developing countries positioned as a source of raw material. In the presence of political leaders from across the African continent, we released what was called the Cape Town Declaration, which committed the international jewelry industry to creating programs that will help realize the eight Millennium Development goals, as introduced by former UN Secretary General Kofi Anan in 2000.

Interview

In July 2007, I and members of the President’s Council met with the current UN Secretary General, Ban Ki-Moon, to discuss our development mission.

Three months later, our Executive Committee held a one-day meeting at the United Nations headquarters in Geneva with senior UN officials, where we agreed to create an international educational program, designed specifically to promote corporate responsibility in the greater jewelry industry. To manage this project, the World Jewelry Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) was established in 2008.

In September, 2010 CIBJO and WJCEF were key participants in the organization of a Workshop on Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), which served as the keynote event of UNITAR Week in the United Nations Pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo. It was an event of many firsts—as it amalgamated highranking United Nations officials, members of the Chinese government, and jewelry industry leaders from around the world.

CIBJO was the driving force behind the establishment of the Centre of Excellence by UNITAR in Antwerp in May, 2011. The centre is dedicated to CSR education in the international jewelry and gemstone sectors. The Centre of Excellence, which is housed in a dedicated building provided by the City of Antwerp, is operated by the United Nations International Training Centre for Corporate Opportunities (ITCCO), which aims to stimulate businesses around the world to embrace the principles

of Corporate Social Responsibility.

AJA: Will Armenia become the regional center for the jewelry industry and what is required for that advancement?

GC: With the support and collaboration of the AJA, Armenia is a major springboard for Western and Asian jewelry and gemstone producers trying to reach the markets in Central and Eastern Europe, and the Asian countries that once were part of the Soviet Union. The history, familiarity with the region, and geographic position places Armenia in an ideal position to do this. In addition, from discussions I have had with senior Armenian government officials, it is clear that a good deal of work is underway to establish a physical and tax infrastructure that is conducive to such activity.

Armenia’s greatest advantage is the support of its diaspora, among which are some of the more talented and experienced members of our international jewelry community. The Armenian diaspora is an asset that should not be underestimated!

All this provides great opportunity for AJA members and Armenia’s Jewelry industry. If Armenia develops into a major regional trading center, Armenian manufactured jewelry could and should get a major sales boost. For that to happen, AJA must stay current with what is happening internationally – economically, technologically, legally, and also in terms of fashion and market trends.

Involvement in CIBJO would be very important in that respect.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 99

Business

Jewelry industry:

bright

outlook

for 2013

T

Text: Paul Frumkin

he jewelry industry has a lot to look forward to in the upcoming year. Early projections for the 2013 fiscal year paint a very bright picture for jewelers, predicting an increase

in sales.

The predictions are based on sales reports from the end of the 2012 fiscal year. Many jewelers like Allurez of New York have enjoyed an increase in diamond sales. Rings, pendants, hoops, and studs were among the most popular of products. 2012’s sales were higher than the previous year’s for the following reasons:First of all, many long standing couples decided to get married, and bought diamond engagement rings for their soon-to-be spouses. This accounted for a good portion of the diamond sales. The other reason was the heightened emotional state of the nation, which is not surprising. The polarizing race for the White House left the country in a very emotional state, and added to the stress people felt because of Hurricane Sandy that ravaged the eastern seaboard, as well as the Sandy Hook Elementary shooting in Newtown, Connecticut.

Another reason was that jewelers like Allurez presented customers with the option to customize jewelry, such as engagement rings, braceletsand

100 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

earrings. Customers had the option to engrave their jewelry with messages of love. In addition to traditionally colored diamonds they also had a nice selection of special colors like blue, black, champagne, and yellow. They were able to “personalize fine jewelry for every occasion,” said an Allurez spokesperson.

Silver and rhodium jewelry were popular, mainly because they are less expensive and look a lot like platinum and white gold. This year, a variety of colors and styles are going to be used, such as amber, emerald, black-and-white, and snakes. Snake themed jewelry in particular will be quite popular this year, because 2013 is the Year of the Snake on the Chinese calendar. Other trends include Cabochon, subtle drop earrings, and hair ornaments. Even some brass and bronze metal will be used in 2013’s jewelry. The year 2013 will undoubtedly bring many exciting new trends and surprises to the jewelry industry.

Hopefully, the industry will see even more growth in sales.

Hopefully, new frontiers will be explored, new doors will open, and new techniques will be discovered.

Hopefully, people will continue to buy and enjoy jewelry, but not because of stressful and tragic nationwide events, but for the love of the product.

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Business

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 101

Business

We Are What We Buy!

by Bill Boyajian

photo by Ya’akov Almor

I

f you’re a retail jeweler, your store takes on the look of what you buy. If you’re a jewelry designer, you are what you design. If you’re a jewelry manufacturer, you are what you manufacture. If you want to be better at what you do, you need to stock, design, or manufacture what people want to buy.

Sometimes I wonder whether consumers are better jewelry buyers than most retail jewelers. Consumers buy what sells, and this becomes a bulletin to jewelers: Stock what consumers buy!

Reordering inventory after the Christmas holiday is important, but reordering the right merchandise is crucial. Analyze what sold over the holidays and replace merchandise that sold quickly. These are your fast sellers. If an item sold within weeks, chances are it will sell again, very quickly. Consciously begin to reorder higher-priced merchandise because that will increase your average retail sale.

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Increasing your average retail sale is a key to increasing your overall revenue. On average, only about 5% of your total annual sales creates half of your gross profit.

Finally, consciously increase your margins this year.

Just a 10% increase in margin can bring an extra $100,000 in increased profit to the average million dollar jewelry store. No other factor can increase the profitability of your business this quickly. People don’t know the value of your jewelry. They only know what you tell them. So don’t worry about increasing your margins this year.

If you believe you are what you sell, reorder fast sellers, consciously increase your average retail sale, and increase your margins. Do these things and your business will improve dramatically in 2013.

Business

Business Tips

• When we continue to do what we’ve always done, we continue to get what we’ve always gotten. Isn’t it time to change to get ahead?

• If your product or service is selling well, check to make sure your profit margin is there. If not, adjust the price upward, quickly.

• Bright people often assume that others know exactly what they’re saying. Don’t assume this. Be confident, but be clear in speech.

Life Tips • Try to find a balance between firmness and gentleness. You can be decisive and kind at the same time.

Relationships will improve.

• Our lives are shaped by our thoughts, so if you want to change something in life, you need to change the way you think.

• Don’t argue needless points to death. Get your ego and feelings out of the way. Just «let it go.» You’ll be happier, and so will others.

Diamond Facts: The 4th C is Crucial!

Color, clarity, and carat weight are important factors of rarity in diamonds, but cut is a factor of skill and precision. Over the past 15 years or so, the quality of polished diamond manufacturing has improved significantly around the world. There are several factors that have contributed to this, but chief among them is the introduction of a cut-grading system pioneered by the American Gem Society.

The AGS Lab introduced its system in grading reports back in 1996, and this, coupled with the availability of sophisticated cutting technology, revolutionized and improved the quality of diamond manufacturing, particularly in round brilliant cut goods. The availability of laboratory reports and the trend of improving the quality of diamond cutting have resulted in a much better served consuming public.

The AGS Lab remains a small but mighty standard bearer of exceptional diamond cutting through its reports, and has also developed light performance metrics and cut grades for modified round brilliant cut diamonds, along with princess, oval, and emerald cuts. The AGS Ideal Cut has won fame over the years. An AGS Triple Zero cut is arguably the finest measure of diamond cutting and light performance in the trade today.

A well-cut diamond is brilliant and beautiful, and displays fire and scintillation in ways that make up for the factors of rarity that drive diamond prices so high. There is no reason to sacrifice on cut today. The availability of fine cutting, once rare in the diamond world, is a factor that astute marketers and merchandisers should take full advantage of. The 4th C is not only Cut, but it is Crucial!

by Bill Boyajian

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 103

AJA News

AJA of Ontario, CANADA

L

ocal Armenian Jewelers held an informal gathering at the Baton Rouge Restaurant in Toronto on August 13, 2012.

The participants were: President of AJA Montreal Habib Malo, Co-founder of AJA International and Chairman of AJA Foundation Pierre Akkelian, member of AJA Montreal Hovig Tufenkjian, Manas Titizian, David Tahmazian, Aram Isnar, Varouj Tabakian, Greg Buzbuzian, Ruben Mnatzaghanian, Paravon Camgozlu, Adom A. Knadjian, Arka Akkelian, Alique Akkelian, Sevan Titizian, Nareg Akelian, Sasha Akelian, Raffi Buzbuzian, Sevag Khatcherian, Shant Khatcherian, Aida Knadjian, and Aret Camgozlu.

Habib Malo opened the informal meeting by reading a note from Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan,

104 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

President of AJA International, who greeted the jewelers and expressed his best wishes towards the re-establishment of AJA Toronto. Mr. Melo expressed his encouragement and also spoke of the challenges they will be facing based on his own experience in Montreal.

Since many jewelers, although very interested, were unable to attend, apreliminary board was appointed to start the process of eventually electing a Board of Directors.The following names were suggested as the initial ‘appointed’ Board:

1. Garo Baler 2. Erol Paylan 3. Sevag Khatcherian 4. Greg Buzbuzian

5. Paravon Camgozlu 6. Aram Isnar 7. Manas Titizian 8. Adom A. Knadjian

AJA News

SIERA Wins Award at Centurion

S

cottsdale, AZ – Business was strong and the mood was upbeat at the 2013 Centurion Jewelry Show, which ran from February 2 to 5.

“It was unbelievable,” said Amir Goldfiner of Los Angeles-based Rahaminov Diamonds. He counted the show among the best his firm has participated in.

For the third year in a row, Siera has won 1st place in the diamond fashion jewelry category at The Centurion in Arizona. Featuring an 18kt. yellow and black rhodium pave large flower pendant with 13.79kt. of mixed diamonds, Siera stole the show yet again.

AJA is extremely proud of its member and congratulates Siera one more time!

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 105

AJA News

AJA Reception - Dinner at Hong Kong Show

Armenian JEWELLERS Association held a GAlA-DINNER IN HONG KONG ON SEPTEMBER 22

T

he banquet was organized by the Association’s Bangkok Chapter led by AJA Board member Arto Artinian. The event, organized annually during the Hong Kong September fair period, has grown throughout the years and is beginning to attract more and more Armenian jewelers and jewelry professionals. Fellow Armenians from various countries who meet up to build personal and professional relationships that are based on mutual interest as well as shared backgrounds. All AJA events are unique because within the Armenian community, there is a variety of cultural Backgrounds. Under AJA’s umbrella, the members share different opinions and perspectives, creating a platform for jewelry business opportunities for Armenians from around the world. Thanks to a strong campaign launched via newsletters, e-cards, personal and e-mail invitations, the Gala had an excellent start with the banquet hall at full capacity, filled with traditional Armenian hospitality. AJA

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President Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan, began by welcoming the Armenian jewelers,emphasizing the importance of AJA members as an inseparable part of the AJA’s success, and their expected contribution to the growth of the Association. Mr. Gevorkyan also raised two very important points: First, he congratulated the 21st anniversary of the independence of the Republic of Armenia (celebrated a day earlier), which drew cheers from the crowd. Second, he announced the official declaration of “Jeweler’s Day” by the government of the Republic of Armenia, to be celebrated every last Sunday in October.

Mr. Gevorkyan also stressed the importance of the Jewelry Show in Armenia which was scheduled for the end of October. He used the occasion to congratulate AJA Board member and head of the Bangkok Chapter, Arto Artinian, for organizing the banquet and assuming the position of Honorary Consul of the Republic of Armenia to the Kingdom of Thailand.

AJA News

AJA looks for New prospects in Asia

AJA met with the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association in Bangkok, Thailand

A

high-ranking delegation of the Armenian Jewelers Association (AJA), headed by its President, Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan, and accompanied by the Head of AJA Thailand and Honorary Consul of Armenia to Thailand Mr. Arto Artinian, Mr. Zohrab Istanboulian, Mr. Karen Avakyan, and Mr. Cyril Waskol officially met on September 27, 2012 with the President of the Thai Gems and Jewelry Traders Association, Mr. Somchai Phornchindarak as well as TGJTA board of directors.

The meeting took place at the TGJTA Headquarters, on the 52nd floor of the Jewelry Trade Center located at the heart of Thailand’s’ jewelry district on Silom road, Bangkok. Following a warm and customary Thai welcome and introduction by the hosts, an array of Jewelry industry issues were discussed and pledges were made to develop a long-term working relationship between the jewelry Industry and professionals of Thailand and the jewelry Industry and professionals of Armenia.

The Thai delegation presented the available opportunities in business friendly Thailand in terms of jewelry related operations and the importance of Thailand as a regional jewelry Industry hub. In return, Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan presented the new initiatives undertaken by the Armenian Jewelers Association at the dynamic Yerevan Jewelry Show in October, 2012, to build close cooperation with established jewelry trade centers such as the one in Thailand, the formations of jewelry related knowledge and resource institutions in Armenia, and

108 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

took the opportunity to officially invite the leadership of TGJTA to visit Armenia and consider the opportunities created for Thai jewelry industry members.

The Head of AJA in Thailand, Arto Artinian, made a mutually beneficial recommendation of creating a joint collaboration with TGJTA to assist Thai jewelers penetrate into the CIS markets in South Caucasus, as well as open a market gateway to Russia, having in mind the strategic partnership of Armenia and Russia.

The meeting concluded with commitments by both sides to work more closely in order to strengthen collaboration between Armenian and Thai jewelers by sharing local expertise and the mutual business knowledge for the benefit of the jewelry industry of Armenia and continued growth of the Gem and Jewelry Industry of Thailand.

AJA News

VICENZAORO 2013

V

icenza, Italy – Jewelry Fair VICENZAORO, a business hub for manufacturers and international buyers from 120 countries, started off their Winter Show 2013 with an international summit titled “ The Future. Now.” The Think Tank, chaired by Simon Brooke (The Financial Times), included the elite of the jewelry world: Roberto Ditri, President of the Fair, Artak

Udumyan, Vice President of Estet Jewelry House, Nadja Swarovski, Swarovsky executive board member, and Hank Siegel, Hamilton Jewelers owner and President, among others.

The participants discussed various topics such as trading opportunities, strategies for promoting brands, the future of jewelry as well as new perspectives for luxury goods.

APRIL 2013 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 109

T

AJA WELCOMES NEWEST CHAPTER TO ITS RANKS

he Armenian Jewelers Association is proud to announce the establishment of its San Francisco Bay Area chapter and welcomes the new members to its growing ranks. This chapter will serve the San Fransiciso, San Jose and Oakland communities including the world famous Silicon Valley and the venerable San Francisco Gift Center & Jewelry Mart wholesale jewelry building.

Upon the invitation of Jirair and Serpoug Sarkissian, founder of Giraux Fine Jewelry, AJA President Gagik Gevorkyan and West Coast AJA Board members were invited to San Francisco to meet the Armenian-American jewelry community. This invitation was extended at the 5th annual ArmTech Congress gala dinner in San Jose on December 10, 2012. The delegation from Armenia, led by Prime Minister Tigran Sargsyan, visited California to establish and expand relations with top business leaders and universities in Los Angeles and Silicon Valley. Guests invited to attend the ArmTech Congress included AJA President Gagik Gevorkyan and business owner Jirair Sarkissian. Upon hearing about the advances of ArmTech Congress and its mission to strengthen, develop and advance the high tech industry in Armenia, Mr. Sarkissian introduced himself to Gevorkyan and informed him about the multi-generation old jewelry district of San Francisco and the Armenian-American jewelers’ community behind its reputation and strength.

As the conversation progressed and based itself around AJA’s vision of advancing and developing the jewelry sector in Armenia and the diaspora, Gevorkyan and Sarkissian exchanged contact information. Within days, an invitation was extended to the AJA West Coast Board of Directors and AJA President Gagik Gevorkyan to meet with more than thirty Armenian-American established jewelers in San Francisco.

Mr. Sarkissian welcomed the delegation from Los

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Angeles and stressed the importance of activating and mobilizing the prominently represented Armenian American jewelers of the region. “San Francisco is world famous for its business, technology and design centers as well as home to many fine retailers. My colleagues and I stand proud that the Armenian-American jewelers are known in San Francisco as trusted experts in fine jewelry—from design to repair to retail service,” said Sarkissian. “We have long stressed and acted on the importance of industry alliances as well as engaging emerging professionals in our industry. As our community grows, so must we. It is imperative that we coordinate our efforts with the mission and vision of the Armenian Jewelers Association.”

Motivated by the strength and energy of the meeting, AJA International member Shant Haytayan and Gagik Gevorkyan called for the establishment of the San Fransiciso AJA chapter. “With local chapters representing more than 10 countries, AJA serves as the voice of the Armenian jeweler. We must ensure the participation and success of all Armenian jewelers around the world and carry out its mission through advocacy, information and community efforts,” said Gevorkyan. “I identify great strength and foresight here today and am confident that AJA mission will be served to its highest potential.”

Meeting attendees unanimously elected Mr. Sarkissian as Chairman of the newly established chapter as well as Edward Misserlian of Edwards Jewelers, and Sako Sarkissian as Operations Manager.“This nascent chapter will allow like-minded professionals who share the same interests, expertise and experience to stay informed of the latest issues and trends and establish better working relations to improve ourselves, our business and our community,” said Edward Misserlian, “We thank the Armenian Jewellers Association and look forward to sharing great successes!”

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AJA News

Estet Jewelry House of Russia Wins “Distinction Award” at International Jewelry Design Excellence Awards

T

he annual Honk Kong International Jewelry Show, one of Asia’s largest spring buying events, opened on March 5, 2013 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, the five-day event hosted over 3,300 exhibitors from 49 different countries. This year, the fair celebrated its 30th year of serving the world’s jewelry industry -- a triumph for a small exhibition that began in a hotel ballroom with 100 exhibitors.

Aimed at recognizing professional elites from around the world, the fair provides a platform for international designers to compete for several awards: . Champion of the Champions . Aesthetic Award . Craftsmanship Award . Innovative and Uniqueness in Design Award . Distinction Award . Merit Award This year, a record breaking 187 entries were submitted from 28 countries. The panel consisted of seven world renowned professionals in the industry

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who judged the pieces based on innovation, craftsmanship, aesthetics, wearability and functionability.

Amongst the winners, Russia took home 2 titles: “Champion of the Champions” (Ilgiv F for the 2nd year in a row) with “Butterflies” ring and earring collection, and “Distinction Award” (The Team of Estet Designers) with the “Swan’s Secret” ring.

The swan, a creature of a myriad of myths, has been inspiring artists for centuries with her grace and beauty. A symbol of fluidity, intuition and creativity, she has bestowed unearthly gifts of music, song, poetry and dance. They say when a swan glides towards you, you are being asked to make a polished mirror of your soul so that you may reflect the spiritual worlds. Estet designers’ ambitious masterpiece was conceived to reveal the hidden beauties and mysteries of this exquisite bird.

Specifications: . white gold 750 . white diamonds – 358 pc, 1.96 ct . yellow diamonds – 106 pc, 0.73 ct . fancy cut sapphire (colored) – 1 pc, 0.22 ct . hyacinth – 1pc, 14.55 ct . rhodium

AJA News

A

AJA Western USA Elects New Board Members

JA Western USA ‘s Board of Directors met on Thursday, January 9, 2013 to elect a new Board. The meeting was called by AJA Western USA’s Chairman Vatche Fronjian.

Election Committee Chair Shant Haytayan along with AJA International President Gagik Gevorkyan held the elections. Chairman Fronjian thanked everyone for attending and praised AJA for their successful efforts and teamwork for the past 2 years which they celebrated with a banquet held on December 9, 2012 at the Glendale Hilton to commemorate their 15th year anniversary.

Mr. Haytayan thanked the Board for their excellent work and the meeting proceeded by 25 to 28 names being submitted for the 2013-2014 Board. 25 names were accepted and approved on the roster. After the endorsement by the Board, 5 members were selected for Governing Body by unanimous open hand count: Krikor Karaguezian - President Sarkis Nourian - Vice President

Simon Ghanimian Khachig Hawatian Jirair Torossian

- Vice President - Secretary - Treasurer

The newly elected members of the Governing Body commented on AJA’s role in the industry and pledged to collaborate to advance AJA’s mission and goals in the coming years.

Mr. Gagik Gevorkyan congratulated the new Western USA Board of Directors and Governing Body and emphasized AJA’s function as one global unit. In his remarks, he stressed the importance of all AJA’s programs, shows, networking and educational platforms as a means for Armenians to expand and for Armenia to be recognized as significant contributors in the jewelry industry.

The attendees remarked on AJA’s presence and reception at JCK International Show. Mr. Saro Maroukian was elected to Chair the 2012 AJA Reception at the JCK Show. AJA Western USA board also decided to contribute $3000 for AJA International’s website.

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Golden youth

THEY CAME, THEY LEARNED,

THEY MASTERED

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very jeweler knows the value of an idea. In the world of jewelry design, it becomes increasingly difficult to come up with a unique idea and turn it into a piece that customers will admire. In order to properly convey an idea on paper, one must have the knowledge of drawing. With this in mind, students of AJA schools in Yerevan, Moscow, and Stepanakert spent six months learning how to draw and express their ideas 114 AJA INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE APRIL 2013

on paper, the first step in creating innovative designs.

The opening of these jewelry schools was one of the highlights for AJA in 2012. Already, they are beginning to have an impact. Now that they have graduated from the AJA school, they have created their own jewelry pieces. Besides learning the basics of making jewelry, some of the students will now work on the creation of a cross for the altar of the Armenian Church in Moscow.

Golden youth

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Golden youth

Gohar Hambartsumyan, Director of AJA school in Yerevan

Hayrapetyan Robert , “ Jazz” : 17 gr. Silver, center stones Amethyst and Zircon

Mkrtchyan Sevak, “Labyrinth”, 25 gr German Silver“, center Stone—sadaph

Sargsyan Nare , “Tenderness”: 25gr German silver, center stone —Amethyst

Simonyan Miqayel , “Memory”: 50gr Silver, wood , leather, center stone — Zircon

Antonyan Artur , ‘Fantazy”: 30gr Silver, black and white Zircons

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Golden youth

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