how to act like a
Champagne expert
how to act like a
Champagne expert
Published by Arbon Publishing Pty Ltd. 45 Hume Street, Crows Nest NSW 2065, Australia PO Box 623, Crows Nest NSW 1585, Australia Telephone: +61 2 9437 0438 Facsimile: +61 2 9437 0288 Email: admin@arbonpublishing.com or visit www.arbonpublishing.com Managing Director Fritz Gubler Publisher Project Editor Book Design Cover Design Photo Research Proofreader Indexer
Chryl Perry Dannielle Viera Stan Lamond Stan Lamond Marie-Louise Taylor Marie-Louise Taylor Marie-Louise Taylor
This publication and arrangement Š Arbon Publishing Pty Ltd, 2013 Text Š Arbon Publishing Pty Ltd, 2013 Photography credits appear on page 111 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge of and prior consent of the copyright holder concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by authors, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that the credits accurately comply with the information supplied. National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Author: Viera, Dannielle, author. Title: How to act like a champagne expert / Dannielle Viera. ISBN: 9780987282040 (paperback) Subjects: Champagne (Wine) Wine and wine making. Wine tasting. Dewey Number: 641.2224 Printed and bound in China by 1010 Printing Limited
Contributors FRITZ GUBLER
Following a long and successful career in the hospitality industry, in 2008 Fritz Gubler published the first title in the Great, Grand & Famous series, Great, Grand & Famous Hotels, as a way of sharing his enthusiasm for the world’s finest and most illustrious hotels. Fritz is also certified as a sommelier in French wines, and with How to Act Like a Champagne Expert, he has created another book that is sure to enrich readers’ enjoyment of life’s luxuries. DANNIELLE VIERA
Dannielle Viera has been involved in the publishing industry for over 18 years, first as a copywriter, then as an editor, project manager, proofreader, and writer. She has worked on more than 40 printed books and numerous sample presentations, and has written about subjects as varied as the history of Christianity, Native American mythology, vampires, knights, and the death of Hollywood film stars.
Foreword Champagne is the perfect pairing of passion and art, and I have always thought that there was something magical about its delightful effervescence. At first it was the exquisite taste that lured me in, and whenever I heard the unique sound of a champagne cork popping from the bottle, I would always cry out “That’s the sound of happiness!” I soon began collecting each cap from the bottles I enjoyed, and would write the occasion and the date on the reverse side. My hunger for champagne knowledge grew to the point where I needed to find out everything I could about each of the Houses, including their history and what contributes to their particular style. This obsession with bubbly continues to the present day, as I attempt to master the art of understanding champagne. To have the wonderful book How to Act Like a Champagne Expert at my fingertips is ideal as I seek to discover the secrets of the champagne world, and it will be a permanent addition to my handbag. Christian Pol Roger once stated that “champagne cannot be drunk without intelligence,” and this fun and user-friendly guide to the world’s sparklers allows me to have that wisdom on hand at all times.
Kiron Barui Creator of the “Wearing Memories” champagne jewelry collection, and Australian host of Bubbly Talk Radio’s “The Champagne Sisters” program
Contents Introduction: The Story of Champagne A Brief History of Champagne 10 The Champagne Region and Terroir 12 Grape Varieties in Champagne 14 The MĂŠthode Champenoise 16
Selecting Your Champagne
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How to Read a Label 22 Sweet Versus Dry 24 Vintage and Nonvintage 26 Judging Bottle and Cork Health 28 Champagne Portions 30
Storing and Serving Champagne
32
Advice for Storing Champagne 34 Serving Temperature 36 Glassware 38 Opening, Pouring, and Tasting 40 The History of Toasting 42
Tasting Champagne
46
Tasting Stages 48 Champagne Styles 50 Tasting Terms 52 How to Host a Champagne Tasting 54
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Pairing Champagne with Food
60
A Perfect Match 62 Hors d’Oeuvres 64 Main Courses 68 Desserts 72
Champagne Cocktails and Punches
76
Classic 78 Kir Royale 79 Bellini 80 Mimosa 81 Black Velvet 82 Death in the Afternoon 83 Champagne Citrus Punch 84 Champagne Cranberry Punch 85
Other Sparkling Wines
86
Spanish Cava 88 Portuguese Espumante 89 Italian Sparkling Wines 90 German Sekt 92 Ęş 93 Hungarian Pezsgo Sparkling Wines of the United States 94 Sparkling Wines of the Antipodes 96 South African Sparkling Wines 98
Quick Reference
100
Aide-Memoire 102 Glossary 104 Index 108 Acknowledgments 111 Bibliography 111 Picture Credits 111
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Introduction
The Story of Champagne
C
hampagne is the world’s most famous wine, an official trademark of France, and universally recognized as one of France’s greatest gifts to civilization. The birth and development of the effervescent icon of luxury we know and love today as “champagne” is a tale spanning many centuries.
A Brief History of Champagne Grapevines were first planted in Champagne during the Roman occupation of the region, and by the time French king Henry III was crowned in 1574, “champagne” (a term for all wines made in the Champagne region) had become France’s most expensive beverage. However, any evidence of bubbles in the liquid was considered undesirable and a sign of poor winemaking. Enter Dom Pierre Pérignon, whose ingenious improvements in viniculture produced a refined sparkling wine that soon impressed even King Louis XIV.
Come quickly, I am tasting the stars! —Dom Pérignon
In 1668, Dom Pérignon was sent to salvage the fortunes of Hautvilliers Abbey, which had stood for more than a thousand years watching over the Marne Valley, between Reims and Épernay. Thanks to the Holy Crusades, the diocese had gradually inherited the very best vineyards in Champagne, but by the time Dom Pérignon arrived at the abbey, it was a shadow of its former self. The Catholic Church’s instructions were clear—improve the vineyards and improve the champagne—in other words, get rid of the bubbles. Dom Pérignon took on the difficult task of restoring the vineyards to their former glory. He turned out to be an extremely skilled winemaker; not only did his work ensure the monastery’s material prosperity, but he also introduced many notable improvements in winemaking that are still practiced today. By judging just the right moment to bottle his wine in the most appropriate receptacle (the strongest available glass), and by using a more modern and
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Statue of Dom Pérignon at the Moët & Chandon Champagne House in Épernay, France.
effective seal on the bottle (a cork stopper instead of oil-soaked hemp), Dom Pérignon miraculously managed to trap the delicious sparkle found in quality champagne, as well as make clear white wines from red grapes. Champagne proper was born. In the centuries since then, advances in the winemaking process by numerous Champagne Houses—and the rapid journey of this beverage from noble tipple to everyday table—have seen a spectacular growth in global champagne sales.
Selecting Your Champagne
There are many different aspects to consider when choosing champagne, from the style and type of wine (such as sweet versus dry, and vintage or nonvintage) to the size of the bottle. Selecting wisely can mean the difference between a successful occasion and one that falls flat.
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Selecting Your Champagne
How to Read a Label
T
here are many items that appear on a champagne label, but the most important thing to look for is the word “Champagne,” which should be written in prominent letters, as well as “France” or “Produce of France”—this combination of terms guarantees that your bottle is genuine champagne. Other elements that are usually seen on the label include: FF The name of the producer or the brand (for example, “René Geoffroy,” “Bollinger”). FF The degree of dryness/sweetness (for example, “Brut,” “Extra Sec,” “Sec,” “Demi-Sec”). FF The village or town where the champagne was made (for example, “Cumières,” “Aÿ,” “Reims”). FF The level of alcohol, which is usually “12% by volume.” FF The size of the bottle (for example, “750 ml” [standard size], “1.5 L” [magnum]). FF If it is a vintage champagne, the year will be written somewhere on the front label. FF If the champagne is a particular type (for example, “Blanc de Blancs,” “Rosé”), this will be noted. FF If the champagne is made solely from Grand Cru or Premier Cru grapes, this will also usually be highlighted on the label. FF The importer’s name and location (for example, “red+white, Sydney”).
Champagne can only come from Champagne. —French saying
How to Read a Label
Decoding a busy champagne label is simple once you know what to look for.
Knowing the Producer Last, but not least, the label will tell you what type of producer made this bottle of champagne, as shown below: FF N-M négociant-manipulant—Champagne made by the large Champagne Houses, which may own some vineyards themselves but most importantly are authorized to buy in grapes. FF R-M recoltant-manipulant—Champagne made by small growers, who use their own grapes and market it themselves (they can buy in up to 5 percent of the grapes required). FF C-M cooperative-manipulant—Champagne that is produced by the cooperatives and sold either under their own label or that of the “growers.” FF R-C recoltant-cooperateur—Growers who remove their own bottles, bearing their own label, from the cooperative after it has made the champagne. FF M-A marque d’acheteur—Major buyers such as supermarkets or hotel chains, whose name features on the label even though the wine was made by a cooperative or Champagne House. FF N-D négociant-distributeur—Buyers who buy in finished champagne and then distribute it under their own name.
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Storing and Serving Champagne
Glassware
T
wo very different styles of glass have been synonymous with champagne throughout history—the “flute” and the “coupe.” The flute—a tall, slender style of glass that dates back to Gallo-Roman times—was popularized as “the glass of fashion” at the court of Charles II in England, because it showcased the natural effervescence of champagne and also kept any deposit at the bottom (before champagnes were properly disgorged). Since World War II, the flute has evolved into a tulip shape. Served in this type of glass, champagne will retain its natural chill for longer while the aromas will be concentrated, the mousse sustained, and the contents of the glass presented to the tongue in a narrow, effervescent stream. The tulip flute is therefore the perfect instrument for appreciating your champagne.
Glassware
There are times in every woman’s life when the only thing that helps is a glass of champagne. —Bette Davis
Little Deuce Coupe The coupe—a broad, flat, short-stemmed, saucer-shaped glass—was created in 1663 by Venetian glassmakers at the Duke of Buckingham’s factory in Greenwich. Legend has it that the most famous version of the coupe was modeled on one of Madame de Pompadour’s breasts. This style of champagne glass was immortalized by the romantic stars of the silver screen. Unfortunately, the large surface of wine exposed to the air in a coupe means the aromas quickly dissipate, the bubbles go flat almost immediately, and the temptation to cradle this kind of glass in one’s hand heats up the champagne—so the coupe is not the right kind of glass for enjoying champagne. Although crystal flutes will enhance your appreciation of any champagne, surprisingly, ordinary wine glasses are good enough to do the job—they capture the vitally important bouquet, but they just can’t retain the mousse like a flute. Whichever glass you choose, note that the way you clean your glasses is almost as important as their shape. Always hand-wash your champagne glasses in warm water without detergent, because washing liquid residue affects both the bubbles and the bouquet. If the interior of the glass is too polished, there will be no infinitesimal particles on the inner surface of the glass for the carbon dioxide to stick to in order to create the bubbles in the first place.
Flutes come in a variety of shapes, but all are tall and thin.
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Tasting Champagne
Taking time to savor the unique aromas and flavors of individual champagnes is one of life’s greatest pleasures. If you want to host a memorable champagne tasting event, it is helpful to understand not only the physiology of tasting, but also the particular terms used to describe the essence of champagne.
Champagne Cocktails and Punches
While drinking straight champagne is de rigueur for classy events such as wedding receptions and formal dinners, cocktails and punches made with a touch of champagne will lend a fun and festive air to any occasion. Just beware—these fruity little concoctions are both appetizing and addictive!
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Other Sparkling Wines
Spanish Cava
O
nce known as “Spanish champagne,” cava is a white (blanc) or pink (rosat) sparkling wine produced using the método tradicional, the Spanish version of the Champagne region’s méthode champenoise. Officially, eight wine regions within Spain are allowed to make cava, but some 95 percent of all cava comes from just one region, Catalonia. The word cava derives from the Latin cavea, meaning “cave,” which relates to the early use of caves instead of cellars to store the fermenting wine; the name was adopted in 1970 to set apart the Spanish sparkling wine from its more famous French counterpart. Today, the cork of each genuine bottle of cava features a four-pointed star printed on the base. Cava is made from three main grape varieties: full-bodied Xarel-lo, fruity Macabeo, and elegant Parellada. As with champagne, it is available in six different dosage levels—from driest to sweetest, these are Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Seco, Seco, Semi-Seco, and Dulce. Regardless of the type of cava you choose, it should be served at a chilly 46–48ºF (8–9ºC) to ensure the optimum flavors and aromas in the glass; these range from biscuit to citrus and green apple. Cavas do not keep well, and should therefore be consumed within two years of their release date.
With bread and wine you can walk your road. —Spanish proverb
Pink cava can be served with strawberries, oranges, and watermelon slices.
Other Sparkling Wines
Portuguese Espumante
A
lthough it is produced throughout Portugal, from the wet north to the arid south, sparkling wine can only be classed as a top-quality espumante if it has been made in the Bairrada wine region using the same time-honored method as champagne. These bottles are clearly stamped with the official designation VEQPRD, which stands for Vinho Espumante de Qualidade Produzido em Regi達o Determinada. Sparkling wines from the Alentejo, Ribatejo, Douro, Minho, or Estremadura regions are marked VFQPRD (Vinho Frisante de Qualidade Produzido em Regi達o Determinada), and those made anywhere in Portugal that have had gas injected into the wine are labeled VQPRD (Vinho de Qualidade Produzido em Regi達o Determinada). Espumosos, the most Espumante is a popular choice for both affordable (though perhaps least formal and informal parties in Portugal. appealing) Portuguese sparkling wine, is produced when carbon dioxide is added to wine. A number of different grapes are used to create espumantes, including the white (branco) Arinto, Bical, and Chardonnay, and the red (tinto) Baga. The level of sweetness varies from Bruto (very dry) and Seco (dry) to Meio seco (medium dry) and Doce (sweet). Espumantes are usually acidic, with fruity or earthy flavors, and can be paired with anything from dressed salads and baked vegetables to Leit達o da Bairrada, a traditional Portuguese dish comprising roasted suckling pig.
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Everything you need to know about champagne and other sparkling wines in one compact volume
The word “champagne” conjures up images of bon vivants sipping
liquid gold from slender flute glasses. But you don’t have to be a wine connoisseur to appreciate and enjoy this remarkable beverage. How to Act Like a Champagne Expert is packed with information and advice on every aspect of champagne, from selecting and tasting bubbly to pairing it with food. This book also travels the world, dipping into a wealth of sparkling wines including cava and sekt.
How to Act Like a Champagne Expert is a must for those hoping to host a dazzling dinner party or champagne tasting, as well as anyone looking for a luscious libation. The book includes a helpful aide-memoire with the most salient details about this tantalizing tipple, plus a complete glossary of champagne-related terms. With this effervescent guide by your side, you can choose and use champagne and other sparkling wines for every occasion.
Bubbly Facts FF Sparkling champagne was originally criticized as
an example of poor winemaking. FF The largest champagne bottle is called a Melchizedek,
with a capacity of 30 liters. FF There are more than 21 million bubbles in a glass
of champagne. FF Allegedly, the shape of the coupe (a saucerlike
champagne glass) was modeled on one of Madame de Pompadour’s breasts.
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