ARchAIc PRess
S T Y LE R A I D E R S . S TO R E N V Y . C O M
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Archel Arindaeng Executive Editor of Design COPY EDITORS Belester Benitez Doris Kwan CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Belester Benitez CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Christopher Polack Stanislav Mironov CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Ly Tran @ PLAYSTOP Design MODELS Georgie @ London Management Daniel Benjamin @ Elite Models James Wawrzyniak CONTRIBUTING STYLISTS Maya Dal Olga Romanenkova Andrea Micich @ Unsigned Management (Make-up Stylist) Anna Minayeva (Make-Up & Hair Stylist) ADVERTISING CONSULTANT Justin LaBeau Special thanks to designers and PR agencies for images provided and clothing pulled for photo editorials!
C O N T R I B U T O R S
Ryan Wallace Editor-In-Chief
E D ITORI A L PIC KS
SPRING ESSENTIALS F r o m t h e pa l e st p i e c e s to inspiring modern t w i st s on a springtime classic, designers this season are a p pea l ing to ou r sweeter dispositions. Simple and e nt i r e ly addictive, our s p r i n gt i m e m u st h av e s a r e b lo o m i n g i nto o b s e s s io n s .
Graphics Courtesy of Ly Tran
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a b o v e
t h e
b a r
ATHLETICWEAR Embracing the necessity of sportswear, collections this spring have the raised the bar in terms of both construction and design. Turning simple workout gear into statement-worthy apparel, designers this season have reassessed the importance of athleticwear and found new muses. From impressive hardware to form fitting designs, whether you’re simply in for some cardio or sculpting muscle groups, you’ll be turning heads as you step out of the gym.
Penneys Athleticwear Available at www.primark.ie
ASOS Bomber Jacket Available at www.asos.com
River Island B&W Floral Tee Available at: us.riverisland.com
River Island Palms Graphic Polo Available at: us.riverisland.com
With soft coloring and feminine silhouettes, the kingdom of flora has historically found its position representing the fairer sex. But with modernity comes new roles, and this season florals are evoking subtle masculinity. Integrated in everything from outerwear to accessories, menswear this season is suddenly in bloom. Contrasting hard and soft, you’ll find flora to be the perfect pattern to spring your wardrobe into contemporary fashion.
M A S C U L I N E
FLORA
E M P O W E R I N G
PRINTS
Amongst the colorful innovations of the spring season, it’s prints that captivate attention. And when things get muddled, we are often brought back to the simplicity of black & white. Ever-classic and acting as the perfect base for springtime accessories, black & white prints play an important role in moderating the season of colors. Dress it up, dress it down, you’ll embolden your springtime look either way.
People Tree Knots B&W Dress Available at: www.peopletree.co.uk
People Tree Orla Kiely Floral Print Dress Available at: www.peopletree.co.uk
S H A D E S
OF PINK
If there’s one thing Miss Selfridge has taught us this spring it’s that things are simply sweeter in pink. Integrating an entire collection’s worth of rosy hues, the brand is showing the true versatility of the pastel pigment. Finding the dynamic nature of the shades of blush, Miss Selfridge has elevated the notion of a modern woman by bringing subtle tones and supreme design execution to the forefront.
Miss Selfridge Embellished Floral Cami Midi Available at: us.missselfridge.com
Miss Selfridge Floral Print Dress
Miss Selfridge Light Pink Shorts Suit
Miss Selfridge Bonded Lace Pencil Skirt & Bra Top Available at: us.missselfridge.com
archaic
Models THINK YOU’VE GOT WHAT IT TAKES TO MODEL FOR ARCHAIC PRESS?
SEND IN THE FOLLOWING HEADSHOTS, A FULL-BODY SHOT, MEASUREMENTS, AND A LINK TO YOUR WORKING PORTFOLIO TO MODELS@ARCHAICPRESSMAGAZINE.COM. THEN TAG YOUR PHOTOS WITH #ARCHAICMODELS AND #ARCHAICPRESS. IF WE THINK YOU’VE GOT WHAT IT TAKES, YOU MAY JUST FIND YOURSELF ON NEWSSTANDS NEXT ISSUE!
B
ringing photos to life and conveying emotions through a 2-D film, models are tasked with a difficult responsibility. The photogenic few create beautiful images, however, it’s an even more elite group of individuals that find their niche in high fashion modeling. Speaking a thousand words with a single glance, these models mold their bodies into an artistic canvas that rivals their marble ancestors. With chiseled bone structures and flawless skin, it’s the gifts of biological advantages that grace these models—but it’s the perseverance and talent that make an individual capable of high fashion modeling. These young models have caught our eye, exemplifying the beauty and talent of our Millennial generation. And with potential to represent any designer worldwide, they go above and beyond embracing the gifts nature has given them. Embracing their genetic flaws and perfections, and creating beautiful images, these models show exactly what our generation has evolved to be.
DANIEL BENJAMIN
Age: 28 Location: São Paulo, Brazil Height: 6’1” Waist: 40” Eye Color: Brown Hair Color: Brown Agency: Elite Models
JAMES WAWRZYNIAK Age: 21 Location: Nottingham, England Height: 5’ 8” Waist: 30” Eye Color: Brown Hair Color: Dark Brown Agency: Not Signed
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1 2 E . S TAT E S T. REDLANDS, C A 92373 9 0 9 .7 9 2 - 0 3 4 3 319 W. 1ST ST. SUITE B C LAREMONT, C A 92722 909.626.760 0 N E C TA R C LOT H I N G .C O M 2 0 % O F F C O D E : N E C TA R 2 0 CO D E E X P I R E S D E C 3 1 , 2 0 1 4 .
1 1 5 N G L A S S E L L S T. ORANGE, CA 92866 714.639.4900
HEX6 AGON A COLORFUL EXPRESSION - OF SUCCESS 13
By Ryan Wallace
polygon pattern, Czosnyka’s “HEX6AGON” proj-
Blue—with the possibilities of making even more
ect took off like wildfire across the internet. Sur-
through layering, HEX6AGON colors a view rather
As with any start-
passing the total goal of $1,825 within the first
than obstructing it.
ing business or creative
48 hours, HEX6AGON founds its place amongst
“The material [really] inspired the project of
endeavor, the most crit-
the KickStarter audience, as over the course of
HEX6AGON” Czosnyka says. “I wanted the user to
ical opinion is that of the
the next month a total of 829 individuals pledged
have more of an impression on their space and
$28,302 to bring Czosnyka’s project to life.
represent their tastes, more than something that I
audience. Whether you think it’s the most ingenious idea or
“I felt like I could sit back and relax, after I
not doesn’t matter if there isn’t a
reached my financial goal in the first 48 hours,
would aesthetically define for them.” “I tend to create clean, simple projects that
receptive buyer to turn fantasy into reality. And
but then something happened” Czosnyka says. “I
are playful and interactive. I enjoyed layering the
often the most difficult part of the process isn’t
was out to lunch around day 5 and I came back to
material, and hexagons were a mathematical solu-
getting an honest opinion out of the audience, but
find my numbers had tripled in the 90 minutes
tion that easily created new colors and geometric
having them put their money where their mouth
I was away. I started to panic and I began filling
shapes—simply by suggestion of application.”
is.
orders.”
But even with so much success and support of
With much recent success, creative forums such
Not Czosnyka’s first endeavor with KickStart-
the creative concepts, Czosnyka’s journey through
as KickStarter connect the artist, the concept and
er, HEX6AGON drew its inspirations from another
kick-starting her projects was not a simple one.
the backers all over the internet. Since the site’s
project she had funded merely five months be-
Bright and colorfully optimistic, Czosnyka looks
inception in 2009, KickStarter users have fund-
fore—“FACET”. A similar concept involving vinyl
back to when the project started with different at-
ed over 55,000 creative projects with more than
floor tiling, FACET took three distortions of the
titude than the one she has today.
$970 million pledged. And garnering more and
diamond shape and allowed for creation of opti-
“I was already vulnerable showing my work to
more attention as the phenoma spreads through-
cal illusions. Taking a tangram-esque approach to
potentially the world, who I assumed would per-
out the internet, Kick Starter projects have even
construction, FACET was a concept that implored
ceive it as a success or a failure based on attain-
begun to color our world as their concepts are
delineation of space, modern design and an un-
ing my financial goal” Czosnyka remembers. “My
brought to life.
dercurrent of whimsy throughout.
second hurdle was being self-conscious in front
With a customizable creative concept and a
“HEX6AGON really came out of researching the
of a camera. I had to figure out how to tell my sto-
passion for geometric artwork, Sara Czosnyka—
materials I was using for my first project—FAC-
ry without speaking directly into a camera. I am
Founder of Process and Content— reached out
ET” Czosnyka says. “I was using opaque, matte
grateful for the experience and am proud of the
to the KickStarter community offering them a
and metallic vinyl when I found transparent vinyl,
results—facing each of my personal challenges.”
unique way of coloring their world.
which required a different process for applica-
Sourcing and making all of her materials from
“I had heard about KickStarter here and there
tion. Getting to learn about ‘wet application’ was
her office here in Los Angeles, Czosnyka’s prod-
for a few months” Czosnyka says. “I saw it as a
enough to hook me, and inspire me to design a
ucts are gleaming examples of a unique endeavor
great platform to test the market. If there was [a
product around it.”
supported by the power of social media. And with
demand for the project], the KickStarter commu-
Offering a different canvas and a different
a constant evolution of the internet paired with
nity would foot the bill for my formal production;
realm of possibilities, the transparent vinyl used
Czosnyka’s evolving concepts, we can be sure to
if not, I would be less inclined to make such a re-
in HEX6AGON is a modern interpretation of
see more projects in the future.
solved product.”
stained glass. Coming in four vibrant colors—
Uniting a stained glass concept with a simple
Golden Yellow, Turquoise, Tele-Magenta & Ice
HEX6AGON and other projects can be purchased at www.processandcontent.com.
VISHNEVAFEST 2013 f i n d i n g
a
d e f i n i t io n
o f
s uc c e s s
Photos Courtesy of Nikolai Krusser
In an age where every individual expresses a unique skill set, and the gap in individual achievements is marginalized, finding a concise definition of success becomes an ever-elusive task. To some, success may come in the form of accolades; to others it may lie in the acquisition of knowledge. But to us, the value of an individual is most greatly illustrated in the way they change their world—their impact on their industry, their community or their art form. Having garnered some of the most coveted titles in the world, internationallyrecognized prima ballerina Diana Vishneva returned to her home in Moscow, Russian last December hoping to alter perceptions in the Russian dance community. Ushering tradition into modernity in the ballet capital of the world, Vishneva established a creative laboratory by bringing together leading contemporary choreographers to satiate the Russian audience’s hunger for modern choreography. Celebrating the first annual contemporary dance festival entitled Context: Diana Vishneva Festival (Vishnevafest for short), fans and ballet enthusiasts travelled to the snow-covered city for a glimpse at the future of Russian dance. “The first thing that I wanted for this festival was to represent young choreographers who don’t have a chance
to present their works” Vishneva said. “It’s important for them to show what they have learned—their growth and achievements.” “Early on I understood that classical technique alone is not enough. I felt it within myself; no one had to tell me. It’s part of my own search for individuality. There is a lot of talk regarding unrealistic actions, but the idea behind this entire festival is my own initiative. I want to see this change in Russia and see interest grow within the Russian public.” Pushing the classical notion of dance, while proving the value of innovation, the three-day-long Vishnevafest 2013 brought new forms of dance to the Russian public. And through perpetuating the importance of collaboration, contemporary choreographers were able to create compelling pieces that incorporated all of the technique of traditional ballet with the emotive quality of contemporary dance. “A choreographer must live in creativity or die” Alla Sigalova, Russian choreographer and former ballerina, said. “But not everyone can train their body to the verge between classical and contemporary. And [in Russia] Diana is the first! This festival represents Diana’s insight into contemporary dance here in Russia.” dance.”
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Perfor m a nce at Pl atfor m Theat r e A primary motif for the first evening was a display of collaboration—between choreographers, dancers, partners and international allies. With 2013 marking the “Friendship Year”, a century of peaceful and open collaborations between Russia and the Netherlands, the evening began with a performance called “Blue Journey” choreographed by David Middendorp of the Korzo Producties of the Netherlands. Mixing a variety of media—music, movement and digital imagery—the piece excellently demonstrated the theatre of the future. “I wanted to make choreography about dreaming, about fantasy. And animation is a very nice way to extend the real world into the dream world” Middendorp said. A multi-dimensional production, with dancers interacting with digital shadows cast upon a screen, “Blue Journey” shows great delicacy and intricacy of movement, as the syncopations of the video and human shadows merge into one. Appearing to manipulate their shadows and dancing with the fluidity of smoke, which mirrored their movements, the performers brought even the simplest of steps to life. Following a brief intermission, four young contemporary choreographers brought their original works to the stage—Marina Akelkina, Marcelo Gomes, Konstantin Keykhel and Vladimir Varnava. Beginning with a piece choreographed by a primary dancer of the American Ballet Theatre, Marcelo Gomes, the audience was slowly introduced into different forms of contemporary dance. With stunning partner-work and apparent long-rooted traditional ballet techniques, Gomes’ dancers who were selected from the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow demonstrated the ideal balance between traditional and modern interpretations of dance. A commentary on human mortality, the cycle of life and the loss
of a love, Marcelo Gomes’ piece was able to divine classical ballet movements with an emotive flair. Effortless collaborations between the strong male frames and the fluid ballerinas allowed Gomes to convey a range of emotions through beautiful movements—creating a cathartic experience for the choreographer and audience alike. “It was nice to be able to put that into movement” Gomes said. “To be able to put that into partnering, which is something I love to do so much as a dancer.” Russian contemporary choreographer Konstantin Keykhel, an alumni of the Vaganova Academy of Russian Ballet, continued the motif of collaboration with a piece contingent on the team dynamic. Choreographing a sextet of dancers, Keykhel’s performance embraced the theme of how one’s movements could interact with another’s— causing a ripple in interpretation. As one dancer interacted with another, the movements changed direction and speed, however, all the while maintaining a cohesive fluidity. Pushing the audience even further past their comfort zone, breaking boundaries and perhaps even a few laws, honored Artist of Russia Marina Akelkina presented an evocative trio. “I am very much interested in the relationship between people and choreography” Akelkina said. “Relationships between a man and a woman, a woman and a woman, and a man and a man— just human relationships. So I was interested in creating something that would express that.” Carrying a complex storyline, accompanied by raw, gritty sexuality, Akelkina’s piece came in short vignettes best described as chapters of a lyrical novel—50 Shades of Shoes. Beginning with a duet in the shadows, with dark music accompanying even darker subtexts, at first glance the piece appeared about dominance and submission. As the two dancers became intertwined, connected passionately, the image of their two intertwined shoes came into focus. Further complicating the story, a third dancer took the stage trying to find
his position in the movements of the dance— creating a contemporary ménage à trios. Ultimately only two intertwined shoes remained, however, in the process Akelkina was able to convey the true complexity of human relationships. The final performance of the evening, by Russian contemporary choreographer and millennial Vladimir Varnava, illustrated the power of contemporary dance. “This festival gave an opportunity to try something new, something I’ve never experience before, and it truly became a creative laboratory” Varnava said. “There is always someone who estimates your progress, but I wanted to find something new because it’s so boring to just use what you already know.” Displaying a gifted talent for the craft of storytelling, Varnava was able to mimic the constructs of a great novel—creating transient characters that were impressionable, embodying multiple characters, and developing depth of plot. Choreographing the entire piece in mere hours, as all of the choreographers did for the exhibition, Varnava was able to develop such an extensive piece by working with emotions rather
than stringent steps.
Perfor m a nce at Gogol Center With a trio of performances ranging from traditional to theatrical, the second evening offered an eclectic roster to the Russian audience. Opening with a contemporary duet, one of the UK’s best contemporary dance companies, the Richard Alston Dance Company, set the stage for the evening. Entitled “Unfinished Business”, the duet was choreographed to one of Mozart’s final sonata’s K533. Composed in the latter end of his life, the piece took advantage of the emotive adagio, incorporating classic ballet technique and lyical movement in a silently graceful duet. Following Mozart’s cues, the pair advanced as the music led and were sent back to the beginning of their dance when the piano sonata repeated. Creating beautiful lines, while also bringing out the emotional depth of Mozart’s sonata, “Unfinished Business” perfectly blends the classical nature of the music and the modern contemporary technique. Imbuing a graceful femininity to the male moves, while still remaining overtly masculine, the contemporary movement allowed for freedom to interplay between strict gender guidelines—a motif that continued throughout the night. Following the duet, the entire company took to the stage in an ethereal performance entitled “Illuminations”. An homage to celebrate British composer Benjamin Britten’s centenary, “Illuminations” set to motion the intensely tumultuous love affair between 19th century poets Arthur Rimbaud and his mentor Paul Verlaine. Famously known for his contributions to the decadent movement and influence on modern art and literature, Rimbaud’s passion and pain were embodied in the dancer’s contemporary motion.
Breaking down the expectations of the audience, the piece defied tradition in innovative and inspiring ways. Bringing forward a male primary to center stage, disavowing the stringent tradition of gender roles in the theatre, and integrating stunning emotion into their movement through a blend of contemporary and ballet techniques, the Richard Alston Dance Company gave the Moscow audience a modern way to look at traditional theatre. With a strong male lead at the helm of the piece, and a depiction of a provocative historical love-affair, there was no surprise that the performance ended in a standing ovation. Changing the ambiance and appearance of the stage, the next piece “Rooster” by the Suzanne Dellal Center and the Israeli Opera brought the audience into the illusive land of dreams. A multi-dimensional play, choreographed by Israeli dance choreographer Barak Marshall, “Rooster” blends theatricality, comedy and high-energy dance into a wondrous performance that pushes senses to new heights. A stark contrast to the technique of ballet, the staccato movements of the Israeli dance instantly grab the audience’s attention as carnivalesque music paints a picture of a dreamland. With impressive timing and near-flawless synchronizations, the intricate and concise isolations showed an impressive technique all its own. And just as sharp in movement as it was in wit, “Rooster” offered the audience as much an opportunity to laugh as to revel in the unique nature of this contemporary dance style. Bringing stark contrast to the Moscow theatre scene, the festival quickly became a hub for unique
contemporary choreographers and companies alike.
Fin a le & Ga l a For the final evening the Gogol Center was filled from the floor to the rafters. With the promise of not one, but two performances by Vishneva herself, the city had come to see the prima ballerina in her element. The performances began with a contemporary ballet performance from the Introdans ballet troupe of the Netherlands. Under the patronage of Her Royal Highness Princess Margriet of Holland, and the artistic direction of Roel Voorintholt, the Introdans first number entitled “Polish Pieces” (choreographed by Hans van Manen) was a piece possessed by partnerwork. Incorporating basic ballet positions and traditional ballet lifts alongside non-traditional choreography, the group moved as one. Group-choreographed vignettes and brief duets played a major role, as the troupe displayed the interconnectedness they had established in trusting partnerships. The second performance by the Introdans, entitled “In Memoriam” and choreographed by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, invoked an entrancement, as audience members fell under the spell of Corsican music. The ballet epitomized technical precision and diversity in technique as all members of the troupe (male & female) danced on pointe, and a turning aria brought imagery of whirling dervishes to the stage. Enveloping the stage in flowing fabrics and drawing the eye to every
movement, the performance offered stark contrast to the previous works the Introdans had displayed, and captivated every member of the audience. Following the hypnotizing display, Diana Vishneva and her partner Marcelo Gomes of the American Ballet Theatre, took to the stage to perform two mesmerizing pieces entitled “Nuages” and “Vertigo”. Haunting, as the sound of violins set the stage of the contemporary ballet “Nuages”, Marcelo with stunning extensions created beautiful lines as he twisted his body into exquisite turns. Reaching to her partner, as if her life were in his hands, Diana surrendered all trust to Marcelo, and like a marionette in complete syncopation with the music Diana lost the rigidity of traditional ballet. Every step was felt without anticipation as they gave themselves over to the music, and the inherent importance of trust within partnership was palpable in the piece. Marcelo’s strength lifted Diana, and in the end they stood alone—strength restored, if only for an instant. The second piece “Vertigo” brought the duet into a more contemporary frame of mind. Shifting towards a more emotive lyricism, the pair was in complete control of their entire bodies, as emotions were cast across their movements and read on their faces. As one body, the pair’s movements were intricately maneuvered in stunning partnerwork. The breaths, the moments at the break of a fermata, resonated as Diana’s sudden shift conveyed meaning with a distinct personality—an individual’s voice. Culminating in the thunderous sound of applause, the first annual Vishnevafest created a large impact in the Russian dance scene. Bringing together such a vast ensemble of contemporary choreographers, and likeminded dancers to execute difficult routines for a skeptical audience, the festival helped define the importance contemporary dance plays for the future of the art form. Expressive and passionate about the role of partnerships, Diana Vishneva’s movements and words convey a forwardthinking optimism for the direction dance is moving. And although her talents have already placed her in the history books, it’s her passionate personality that will forever garner her a place in the hearts of the public. “Only those that embrace collaboration can truly be great” Vishneva said. “I could spend my time somewhere abroad, but I choose to come home and spend my time in Russia. I choose this to help build my ideas, and to help establish this balance for the future between classical and contemporary
P H OTO G RA P H E D BY STANI S LAV MI RO N OV MA K E - U P AN D H A I R BY AN N A MIN A YE VA STYLE D BY O L G A ROMAN E N K OVA F ROM T E CH N O T RI BA LI S M TO TH E T RA D I TI O N A L F LORA LS O F TH E S PRING , TH I S S E AS O N TH E R E ' S AN A LL - OU T WAR AM O NG ST PAT T E R N S & PRIN T S . B U T E VE N W I TH A COMPE TI TI O N F OR S U PR E MACY , TH E R E AR E E N OU G H B O L D CH O IC E S F OR E VE RYO N E TO W IN IN TH I S PAT T E R N C LAS H .
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PINKO dress | PINKO coat | MAGIA DI GAMMA rings | MAGIA DI GAMMA necklace
P INK O d res s | P INK O c o at | MAG IA DI G AMMA rin gs | M AGI A D I GAM M A n e ckla ce
AXARA trousers | TRY TRUSSARDI vest | ANNA RITA N coat | JIMMY CHOO purse | MAGIA DI GAMMA bracelets
DASHA STRAVINSKY dress | MAGIA DI GAMMA neklace | MAGIA DI GAMMA rings | MASTER PEACE rim | JIMMY CHOO shoes
PAUL & JOY costume | DIESEL boots | FURLA purse | MAGIA DI GAMMA rings
DASHA STRAVINSKY overalls | DASHA STRAVINSKY jacket | MASTER PEACE rim | JIMMY CHOO shoes
DASHA STRAVINSKY overalls | DASHA STRAVINSKY jacket | MASTER PEACE rim | JIMMY CHOO shoes
BURGER ROYALTY
3 7 8 6 ING RA H AM ST RE E T , S AN D I E G O , C A 9 2 1 0 9
By Belester Benitez
After we sat down our order was taken down
incredibly juicy, salty and buttery; tender, and
on a post-it note, and we were soon after handed
yet, comfortably firm. I could tell it was molded
On the crowded corner of Ingraham Street in
napkins and our drinks. We were first asked if we
by hand just after it was ordered. Then come the
the hub of San Diego, lies Rocky’s Crown Pub—a
could be helped when we were waiting for seats to
delicious sharp taste of the cheddar, the fresh
cash-only establishment, open seven days a week
open up, and when we sat down we were helped
vegetables and finally, the savory layer of mayo.
and known for its headline “Welcome to Rocky’s,
promptly. The service wasn’t necessarily warm
The fries are thick and plain, not exactly crispy
home of the best burgers in San Diego”. Parking in
from the get-go, but it did get friendlier while we
and not exactly soggy.
the area may be a couple blocks away, but the walk
were there—one of the servers even joked about
You’re going to get dirty with this burger,
is definitely worth it.
how I stopped my writing and closed my journal
your hands and face, so you’re going to need
Now, many food establishments claim to
every time he walked over to help us. He cracked
the napkins they give you. And you can’t afford
have the best this and that, but the no-nonsense
a couple of jokes, and although the servers are
to care if somebody happens to glance over at
way Rocky’s conducts itself makes this claim
by no means trying to charm you, the service was
you as you pack the burger into your mouth to
ring genuine even before official taste-test. The
more than adequate.
take the big bites essential for proper enjoyment.
menu is simple: third-pound and half-pound
The place has a great vibe; people talking in
The experience goes a little like this: take bite
hamburgers or cheeseburgers, fries, wine and 13
every corner or on high-alert for the score on
of burger, then do fries, take a drink, look at
beers on tap. That’s all you get—straightforward
one of the eight television screens, streaming all
the person next to you (or, to the burger itself if
and done right! And the sizeable portions come at
sorts of sporting events. The atmosphere that
you’re all by your lonesome) and nod your head
a small cost, with most beers only $5 a pint, and a
surrounded us was great, but more importantly
while giving a look that says you’ve just tasted
burger meal for under $10.
we were there for the burgers. And boy, talk about
perfection. Then repeat.
After two days of rain in Southern California,
a great burger.
The burger is in the top three best burgers
it’s a damp, cloudy Sunday morning in Pacific
The burger is huge, and it’s characterized by
I’ve ever had in San Diego, and coming from a
Beach. And Rocky’s seems to be the only neighbor
what many great foods are—layers of flavor. Two
San Diego native familiar with all the top-10 on
that’s awake.
sesame seed buns, a thick, juicy patty, melted
the best burger lists, that’s quite tall order. Every
cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, red onions,
bite is delectable, every bite has full layers of
pickles and a generous slab of mayo.
flavor, and every bite is near perfection. The only
With ID’s checked at the door, we walked into the crowded space. The bar was packed! Every seat at the bar, every table was taken. Clearly the word was out on the best burgers in town.
The first thing you taste is the patty, almost because it’s what you want to taste first. It’s
improvements I’d suggest are crisper fries and a bun capable of weathering the patty’s liquids. One of the things that struck me the most was the range of the ages of the customers that showed up to Rocky’s that morning for a burger and a beer. People from their early twenties to their seventies were all there, brought together by a mouthwatering burger. If you want to taste one of the best burgers in Southern California, Rocky’s Crown Pub is the place to go to. And remember, you’re in for a feast.
COMPILE D BY ARCH A IC PRE SS E D ITORI A L TE AM W RITTE N BY RY AN WA LLAC E P H OTO S COU RTE SY O F D E SIG NE RS
TREND REPORTS 32
Graphics Courtesy of Ly Tran
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T E A T I M E AT T I R E Originating as an informal trend for women of the early 19th century, tea length skirts were the only lightweight alternative at the time. With a mid-length hem and a tapered waist-line, these relaxed skirts were an invention of Western cultures that preceded the social acceptance of women wearing pants. Garnering a higher status during the early 20th century through the use of more formal fabrics like organza and satins, tea length skirts found their position in high society—formal tea time attire. Coming in an array of colors and composition,
from relaxed to pleated, tea length skirts provide a somewhat antique form of femininity. Perfect for an outdoor spring party or a day in the city, the effortless charm to these skirts lies in their tradition. A constant allusion to Alice’s adventure through the looking glass, the tea length skirt is a bright reminder of another time—a time where simplicity hadn’t lost its charm. So whether you’re sipping on Earl Grey with the queen or throwing back shots with the girls, you’ll look like the epitome of class wherever the wind blows you.
1. Debenhams 2. Debenhams 3. H&M 4. Phase Eight 5.H&M 6. Debenhams 7. Dorothy Perkins 8. Debenhams 9. Dorothy Perkins
c o o l c o l o r e d s u i t s Sometimes it doesn’t take innovation, but rather modification to alter a perspective. Why start from the beginning to fix something that isn’t quite broken? This season modification comes in the form of color. In altering the hues of impeccably tailored suits, designers are able to brighten their collections for the spring months. Rich teal and cobalt blue captured our attention in an overwhelming amount of collections, but the trend extends farther than that. Encompassing other seasonal trends like pastels, colored suits may perhaps be the most important menswear trend of the spring. Continuing with the momentum of the menswear industry, this season’s suits are familiar in their constructs. Taking on the appearance of a slimmed-down, modern 1960’s, suits this season have several distinct components; the first being the lapel. Narrower than traditional suits, with the widest gorge of two inches, lapels this spring come notched more often than not with a high gorge centered above the clavicle. Double-breasted or single-breasted, one-button jackets run the gamut, accompanied by slim slacks. This spring, history is imbued in a range of hues; moderated by modern tailoring, cool colored suits will have you singing praises of the sixties. Ermenegildo Zegna
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Spring Scene If there’s one thing that we love most about the spring, it’s the scene. After all the sleet and snow has faded, spring arrives with an abundance of opportunities to go out and explore the world around us. And embracing the wonders of the world, designers this season have incorporated stunning imagery in the form of scenic prints. From dresses and jackets to sweaters and shoes, in their spring/summer 2014 collections designers are bringing all of the world to you. Whether it’s a tropical rainforest, a SoCal sunset or a bouquet of flowers, clothes this spring are covered in scenes. Simple tees and crewnecks in recent years have embraced the scenic trend, going coastal and cosmic in their scenery, but this Spring big-name collections have begun to embrace the trend in other capacities. Integrating the youthful, artistic trend in everything from accessories to formalwear, collections have taken on the appearance of a wearable photobook—taking us to the ends of the Earth. And although the most graphic of scenes catch the eye, designers have sprinkled their collections with enough art forms to cover gallery halls. From animated scenes and Renaissance-era artwork all the way to threedimensional photography of the present, designers have an abundance of inspiration and pieces to cover every wall.
1. River Island 2. H&M 3. River Island 4. House of Fraser 5. River Island 6. River Island 7. Kilian Kerner Senses 8. Marks and Spencer 9. House of Fraser 10. Marks and Spencer
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A blank slate, white is often the most misunderstood color. Although having an appearance of being devoid of color, white actually represents everything within the visible spectrum. Reflecting all colors of the rainbow, a white object overwhelms the sensors within the eye and thus creates a white-spot in your vision. And with a rainbow of opportunities, this trend allows for you to envision your style in a multitude of ways. Simple and clean, this trend relies heavily on intricate construction and impeccable tailoring. Playing with more intricate construction techniques and delicate textiles, the all-white trend is not quite as
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simple as it looks. Applicable to any wardrobe, and matchable to virtually anything, it truly creates a blank slate to build upon. From simple spring streetwear to couture luxe, white plays a vital role in decluttering the madness of many collections, and offers a clean canvas to build upon. And although accessorizing with colors may be a typical approach, adding pops of pastels and vibrant contrast, this trend offers some of the most unique accessories out there. Stunning handbags, vibrant shoes that perpetually stand out, and jackets with unrivalled detailing— with all-white accessories, there’s always more than meets the eye.
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A sy m m et r i c a l S K I R TS Thinking on a bias, hemlines this season are completely askew. Leaving lengthy skirts to more matronly trends, designers are making innovative moves where they count—turning to more youthful, shorter alternatives for attention. Making a splash in the Millennial community, mini skirts this Spring are simply sweeter with a sexy edge, as they take on an asymmetric wrap appearance. Utilizing the natural lines of layering techniques, designers this Spring are updating the mini with simpler modifications. Playing with the concept of visual allusions, the bias mini adds a bit of sex appeal without the need for more skin. Bias layering gives an allusion often achieved with a slit, and is a simple enough modification to allow for implementation of other Springtime trends, so this season they’re filling the racks in an abundance of colors and prints. Whether they’re edged up with metallic hardware, or simplified in monochromatic colors, this Spring you may just find yourself biased over the asymmetry of these minis.
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BOMBERS & BIKER JACKETS
1. H&m 2. Primark 3. River Island 4. Dorothy Perkins 5. Penneys 6. Debenhams 7. Dorothy Perkins 8. H&M 9. H&M As far as design goes, Bombers and biker jackets have made great strides in recent years. Upping the ante in terms of construction, there have been impeccable innovations on the horizon for several seasons now. Integrating multiple textures, blending woolen fibers with rich leathers, and pushing the envelope with regards to hardware, they’ve become essential pieces invoking a modern design aesthetic. From custom pieces to off-therack finds, their variability and adaptability to any wardrobe makes them valuable assets to today’s Millennial. Lightening up the darker trends for the Spring season, designers have taken these outerwear must-haves to an elevated position. Integrating jacquard, pastels and prints, while really letting the design shine through, bombers and biker jackets have become integral components of spring/summer 2014 collections. Simplicity in color and modern lines, collections have taken an understated approach to separates this Spring, but outerwear remains the beacon of transition. From day to night, and pastels to white, these outerwear wonders will add a bit of edge to your springtime essentials.
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Sucking the vibrancy out of life and collections across the board, a pastel pestilence has taken hold of the spring season once again. Converting deep, rich jewel tones into lighter counterparts, the pastel trend reflects the more organic blossoms of nature. Light rose and sky blue take center stage as they are highlighted alongside the Pantone color of the year— radiant orchid. As a fleeting trend that finds its way into the spring season, pastels best lend themselves to accessory pieces. Easily interchangeable with their jewel counterparts to lend a subtle vibrancy, pastels are featured most predominantly in handbag and shoe collections. In rich leathers and suede,
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these accessories make a statement bolder than their colors. Although often associated with femininity, pastels also contribute to menswear collections as well. Softer hues find their place in men’s formalwear as dress shirts and ties embrace the pastel trend. Easily integrated into a simplistic suit, or even paired with dark denim, pastels offer a lighter break to traditionally darker trends. Altering many facets of the fashion industry during the spring season, the pastel pestilence brings out the lighter side of trends. A cyclic occurrence that arises every few seasons, these infectious hues will have you swooning for the spring.
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By Ryan Wallace
T
wice a year, in between the haze of international fashion weeks from New York to Paris, a large, albeit fashionable, horde of individuals descends on the city of sin. Centered around the Mandalay Bay, virtually the entire Las Vegas strip becomes the Mecca of fashion as MAGIC Market Week takes the city by storm. Known as the largest global marketplace for contemporary menswear and womenswear, MAGIC encompasses nearly every aspect of the industry in its menagerie of nine separate shows. Hoping to provide inspiration, whilst connecting buyers and designers from around the world, the weeklong events are unlike anything you’ve witnessed before. Filling two entire convention centers with thousands of designers and buyers, the overwhelming array of fashion confounds the senses as the visual and physical manifestations of fashion extend aisle after endless aisle. There are all the familiar names from Hudson Jeans to Ted Baker London, but there are also designers you may not have heard of. All hand-selected and curated for their unique focus on fashion and superb contributions to the industry in terms of design, each vendor fulfills a unique need within the market. Throughout the week, the focus is highly concentrated on two major goals: selling products and making lasting connections. “With a venue and platform where so many people from around the world come to, it gives us an opportunity to connect with them and see them” Peter Kim, founder & CEO of Hudson Jeans, said. “It’s really about the hospitality and the face-to-face connection.” A hello may turn into a conversation, and before you know it you’ve got your pieces in boutiques along the west coast. But there are also those who find their niche amongst the crowds. Young independent designers given the opportunity to sell their products are catapulted into the industry, with their designs on display in front of everyone who’s anyone in the world of fashion. “If you’re a young fresh brand who’s serious, getting in front of important media… this is where I can get the exposure” Nick Moore, owner of BE Headwear, said. Coming together in specially curated events like POOLTRADESHOW, up-andcoming designers with noteworthy concepts find their foot in the door as buyers from the largest department stores take interest in their passionate products. “Starting out in the industry, we focused on capturing our audience with the big-name brands that we knew well” Kaitlin Kirkwood, a buyer for a small boutique in Santa Monica, said. “But what’s great about MAGIC is that they have designers for every price point and customer, so we are now able to get those gems that our customers love to find.” But what’s more, MAGIC has become one of the most iconic events in the world of fashion for its influence on the growing marketplace. Aside from simply buying and selling in bulk, MAGIC offers designers and buyers alike the opportunity to learn and grow as business owners. “It gives you a real indication of where the market is going; where the trends are; whose leading; whose an up-and-comer…where we’re headed as an industry” Jeff Snegg, senior account executive for Next Level Apparel, said. There are daily seminars in trends, runway shows that invoke awe, and even sourcing events that allow designers to find methods of creating their products in more sustainable and high-quality ways. Flourishing and growing as an industry, the fashion world is turned on its head every time MAGIC comes to the city of sin. And if you’re lucky enough to count yourself amongst the crowd, there are plenty of surprises and momentous events in store. But even if you can’t procure a guest pass, we’ve got you covered. Look for the banner “Fashion Finds from MAGIC” and you too can learn more about our new-found favorites!
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PRINTS the nature of
By Ryan Wallace
In terms of fashion, often the most stunning creations evolve from simpler concepts the designer knows well. Integrating their own perspectives and passions, the pieces that come from familiar concepts aren’t necessarily innovations but offer a reinvisioned view of the world the artist lives in. Rushing through the aisles of MAGIC Market Week’s POOLTRADESHOW this past February, we were overwhelmed with the creative imaginations that the designers around us had. Bringing to life labors of love, designs which they had conceived from concept to product, the designers were eager to share their creations with the thousands of buyers that walked through the doors. But amidst the thousands of designers, it takes some extraordinary ingenuity to make us look twice.
Although they have a place in all our closets, our personal bias often draws us away from the screenprint tees that fill the aisles of tradeshows or boutiques. With so much competition in the marketplace their success lies in original creativity and impeccable execution—two aspects many collections fail to acknowledge. But meandering through the aisles of POOLTRADESHOW, one collection in particular drew us in from the crowd. Resembling a colorful abstract painting, shirts on display featured an altogether unique and yet familiar organic pattern—a fingerprint. Drawing inspiration from her daytime job as a forensic specialist, designer Erika Di Palma of “My Own Fingerprint” offers clients the opportunity to create fashion that is distinctly original. “As a crime scene investigator and fingerprint examiner in Los Angeles, fingerprints have been an important component of my everyday life” Di
Palma says. “In 2012, I devised a way to parlay my forensic background into a venture that puts the fun in functional—with a fashionable twist.” Finding a bit of creativity amongst the murder scenes one summer, Di Palma decided to take the beauty out of the horrific crimes scenes to invigorate the ready-to-wear fashion scene around her. “It was my profession that inspired me to create this biometric apparel” Di Palma says. “I took a trade in which I had expertise, added a slice of creativity, and now I am able to provide customers with something that is truly one-of-akind.” Basing her brand and her mission statement on the qualities of fingerprints themselves, “My Own Fingerprint” strives to bring products that are unique and permanent. Collaborating with vendors in Los Angeles who are able to employ unique imprinting processes for each product, they are able to curate an array of individualized apparel and accessories. And with a permanent point-of-view, “My Own Fingerprint” has chosen products that will stand the test of time. “Our apparel is comfortable to wear and will not fade, even with numerous washes over time” Di Palma says. “Our watches are resistant to water, durable against scratching, and include a warranty for extra peace of mind. It is our goal to create unique,
F i n d s F ROM MA G IC How is each design unique?
“Fingerprints are unique because, when a fetus is developing in its mother’s womb, the stresses the mother experiences, including her diet and other environmental and genetic factors, directly impact the detail on each finger of the fetus. No two people will have the same fingerprint and, what’s more, no two fingers will ever be identical. Not even identical twins, who share the same DNA, have the same fingerprints.”
Why are fingerprints permanent?
“Fingerprints are permanent because of the structure of the skin. The “blueprint” of a fingerprint can be found in the dermis layer of the skin. Between the twelfth and sixteenth week of fetal development, the detail on the fingers is solidified and the “blueprint” becomes permanent, barring any scar or injury that that penetrates the dermis layer.”
Could someone potentially use these designs for something more nefarious than fashion?
“If someone really wanted to plant my fingerprint at a crime scene and implicate me as a suspect in some horrendous crime, they would have to spend an inordinate amount of time and energy into trying to achieve this end. The process would necessarily involve taking a picture of my fingerprint on a shirt, removing the background, shrinking it to my correct finger size, making a mold while avoiding distortion, gaining access to a crime scene and planting the one finger around. Again, though anything is possible, this scenario seems farfetched, to say the least..”
ASK THE CRIME SCENE INVESTIGATOR
Erika de Palma quality pieces whose hallmark is longevity, so that they can be passed down from generation to generation.” Aside from being entirely individualized, “My Own Fingerprint” is interactive. Assuming you’d like your own fingerprints on your apparel or accessories, the company provides you with your own fingerprint collection kit, so you can place your own stamp of approval onto the product. And you can rest assured that your personal information is kept completely confidential throughout the entire process. “At ‘My Own Fingerprint’, the safety and privacy of our customers’ personal data is of paramount importance” Di Palma says. “Our policies and procedures were formulated upon the premise of maintain privacy at the highest of levels. As a result, customers can rest assured knowing that their identity will never be compromised.” Di Palma spoke with us regarding the possibilities of identity-theft solely using a fingerprint, and although there may be an evolution in crime syndicates worldwide, the notion of fingerprint-theft plays to quite an extreme—bordering on absurd. And what’s more, aside from a great product and privacy practices, the company supports a great organization. “With each online or in-store generic fingerprint T-shirt sold, ‘My Own Fingerprint’
As the brand evolves, how do you envision your company growing?
“We have a great vision for the future of “My Own Fingerprint” that stretches beyond fashion and into something much more significant. Currently, most parents do not have a copy of their children’s fingerprints stored in case of an emergency. Many of them are under the impression that their local police stores it or that the FBI has it. Unfortunately, no centralized children’s fingerprint database currently exists. Our goal is to educate parents on obtaining this information through the use of our “My Own Fingerprint Kits” and to one day be able to simplify this process for them.”
donates a portion of the proceeds to [the National Center for Missing & Exploited Children]” Di Palma says. “This organization is significant to me because I have experienced first-hand how it helps families who have lost or are missing a child due to horrible, unforeseen circumstances. This charity supports law enforcement, and has made a genuine difference in quickening the response
time & increasing important resources needed during critical circumstances.” From concept to cause, “My Own Fingerprint” stands out amongst the crowd and with a knowledgeable leader at the helm, the brand will continue to grow and find its place in the industry. Bringing people together by displaying what makes each and everyone of us unique, “My
KICK START Photographed by Christopher Polack Styled by Maya Dal Blending the essential components of fashion and functionality, athleticwear this season has bridged a gap. Altering perceptions of
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AIZEL top AMERICAN APPAREL bottom breif NIKE DUNK WEDGE shoes STYLIST’S OWN socks
JOSH GOOT top BUL pants 574 RD NEW BALANCE shoes FASHIONDACCI vintage choker
CAMILLA AND MARC dress 574 CMU NEW BALANCE shoes
CAMILLA AND MARC dress 574 CMU NEW BALANCE shoes FASHIONDACCI hat
TOPSHOP bomber jacket TOPSHOP trousers ADIDAS sports crop SUPERSTAR 80S ADIDAS shoes FASHIONDACCI vintage headband
STYLESTALKER jacket ZIMMERMANN swimsuit NIKE DUNK X LIBERTYshoes
Photographer Christopher Polack Stylist Maya Dal Make-up Andrea Micich @ Unsigned Management Model Georgie @ London Management
STYLESTALKER jacket ZIMMERMANN swimsuit NIKE DUNK X LIBERTY shoes
WITHSTANDING
AN ANGEL’S WORKOUT
In the wake of the Victoria’s Secret fashion show this past Winter, VS has released yet another secret with their Spring 2014 Sport Collection. Shifting perspective back to readyto-wear apparel, Victoria’s Secret has designed a vibrant collection centered around bright colors and tropical prints, with functionality and fit in mind. Appealing to women of every bust size, Victoria’s Secret has become a leader in the underwear industry; however, with a keen view of the female form and some of the most athletic models in the world, VS has striven to perfect an athleticwear essential—the sports bra. As brand ambassador for the collection, supermodel collection,
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pieces as separates. Neon colors and prints, contrasted by blacks and ashen gray, composed the collection as Kroes modeled how the pieces upheld through an Angel’s workout. But as a main concern of the brand, the collection never loses sight of the fashion component. Compromising functionality for a bit of whimsy, such as with Kroes zipper-front sports bra, the collection provides a sexy and sleek look for any gym-goer. And although many VS shoppers may trade functionality for something cute, Victoria’s Secret has made great strides with balancing both in their Spring 2014 Sport Collection.
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REMEMBERING AUNT PEARL
A scenic collection in shades of pink, Nike’s newest shoe shows compassion and respect for those lost to cancer—in particular, NBA player Kevin Durant’s Aunt Pearl. “I made a promise to myself to always honor my Aunt Pearl for the example she set, and the encouragement she gave me to follow my dreams,” Durant said. As a shy young kid, Duran looked up to Pearl and her unique ability to touch the people around her. Durant was inseparable with his aunt until he lost her to a battle with lung cancer in 2000. The KD VI Aunt Pearl collection imbues Durant’s fond memories of his Aunt Pearl and centers around a floral pattern which he remembers his aunt often wearing. Hoping to raise awareness in the battle against women’s cancers and move research programs forward, the KD VI Aunt Pearl shoes are adorned with the Kay Yow Cancer Fund logo on the tongue and Nike will be donating proceeds from the shoes to the organization. Taking Nike’s well-refined designs and adding an underlining message with a cause, the collection brings awareness to important research and pays homage to the memory of a great woman.
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CLASSICS BRINGING BACK THE
Celebrating the 45th anniversary of the sportslifestyle brand’s most iconic cornerstone, the PUMA Suede, PUMA introduced an exclusive addition to the suede footwear legacy—the Suede Sapphire. Paying homage to 1968 conception of the cultural street icon, the PUMA Suede, the Suede Sapphire combines decades of popularity and impeccable design. “It was important for us to emphasize the actual suede material and the specialized craftsmanship on the Sapphire editions,” Adam Petrick, Global Director of Brand Management for PUMA, said. “Suede is a rich and historical material, and to have our most skilled & classically trained designers in Japan shape, construct and produce the PUMA Suede Sapphire was truly significant to its uniquesness and celebration.” Created and carefully designed in the Japanese factory, utilizing specialized artisanal techniques, 450 custom-designed pairs of brushed calfskin Suede Sapphires were crafted for the limited release. A classic design, serving a diverse purpose in a wardrobe, the PUMA Suedes have come to serve as an icon for the brand. “This is a celebration of 45 years of sport and lifestyle fused and pieced together by this classic and historical sneaker—a former performance shoe developed into a fashion item” PUMA Archivist, Helmut Fischer, said. Bridging the gap between athleticwear and streetwear, PUMA Suedes imbue a clear athletic influence with a flair of fashion to create a sportslifestyle movement.
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AN IMPECCABLE FIT N I K E F LY K N I T L U N A R 2
Combining two of their most technologically advanced innovations in athleticwear, Nike’s newest Flyknit Lunar 2 will have you floating on cloud 9. Lightweight and powerfully supportive, the Flyknit Lunar 2 is a reengineered innovation that applies pressure map data and comfort for a more fluid stride. “You get the responsive,
fluid ride of Lunarlon cushioning with this amazing, light but supportive upper through Flyknit” Rob Dolan, Senior Design Director of Nike Running, said. “Those two things together are a magical combination.” Inspired by the gossamer strands of a spider’s silk, the lightweight Flyknit upper-half provides ventilation, support
and moldable comfort via unmatchable stretch. The bottom half, applying Lunarlon cushioning in the sole, enhances the comfort level and cushioning properties of the shoe, addressing over-pronation, under-pronation and an array in between. Unique and bold, the colors of the newest collection matche the innovation of the technology they apply.
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ADIDAS 2014
SPORTS BRA COLLECTION
An essential need for any athletic woman is most-clearly a sports bra. Keeping yourself in control and intact, as well as keeping you comfortable through any workout, sports bras are built to last. But endurance doesn’t always mean supportive and fashionable. Developing a new line of sports bras this season, athleticwear veteran Adidas is addressing these issues with a four-sided collection. With a quartet of bras, hellbent on comfort and control, Adidas is combating all levels of workout intensity with bright colors and bold design. For high-intensity workouts like contact sports and rock-climbing, the new Energy Bra offers maximum support with a racerback designed for optimal ventilation and personalized fit. For the cross-country runners, the Supernova Racer Bra is bright and comfortable, as the padded design keeps you completely in control. And for the lower-impact workouts like Pilates or Spin class, the redesigned Techfit and Seamless Bras are simply supportive. Offering fullmesh linings and doubly-compressive materials, they’ll keep you comfortable while you tone. Whether you’re a seaside yogi or full-impact rugby girl, Adidas’ 2014 Bra Collection will keep you in control of every movement, so you can worry about the game.