The Beaches of Ancient Empires

TRAVEL GUIDE Playa Sotavento - Fuerteventura

WORDS BY: MARK KASPROWICZ

INVADERS! The Beaches of Ancient Empires

Travel, just for the sake of it, is a relatively new phenomenon. Up to the start of the 18th century the fastest anyone could travel on land was at the speed of a horse and a fraction of the speed of the wind over water. So when the ancients went in for group travel they tended to put a little meaning behind it and stay – for as long as they wanted. It’s called invasion and in this way they built up nice little empires across the world. But was it by luck or judgement that many settled in some really exotic places, at least by windsurfing standards, with warm temperatures, fabulous beaches and good winds? Perhaps not!

W

arm temperatures make sense because nice things grow in countries that are warm, things like spices and vines which our forefathers regarded as highly as we look upon a 52” flat screen TV, a shiny new Lambo or the latest iPhone. On the other hand when the Mongol hordes rode across Siberia they hardly stopped to ask the time of day and no one squabbled over Greenland. Beaches? Well, that makes sense too as it’s easier to make landfall on a flat beach and fight the locals than it is to scale high cliffs when the defenders can rain boiling oil and rocks on the heads of the invading party.

It tends to make progress slow in spite of the promise of a little bit of pillaging at the end.

Wind was the basic motive power for sea journeys for merchant as well as military ships and it had to be dependable and predictable. So trade and westerly winds made the process of exploration and invasion possible.

We’ve pulled together a variety of these destinations from empires across the eons and pulled them together into what can only be described as the perfect windsurfing empire. To help you make your destination choice we’ve provided contact details of agents and the centres so you can gleam as much info as you need.

On the basis that the first thing you need after travelling for hours is a cold beer, we’ve also included the one sentence that will slake you thirst, calm you down and put you in a holiday mood.

That’s right, it’s six different ways of ordering a beer (although the Latin version might just have the Italians scratching their heads in which case just point and use the old multilingual request of ‘BEER’).

www.windsurf.co.uk

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INVADERS

THE EGYPTIAN EMPIRE The difference between the Egyptians and other empires was that Egyptians did most of their fighting on land.

Although their country was surrounded by sea, the Mediterranean to the North and the Red sea to the East, they were not good sailors and mostly kept to the confines of the River Nile, where most people lived and SUPed. The biggest sea battle took place in the reign of Ramesses III against the Sea People and although Egyptian forces successfully defended their country, it was a land battle that took the moment. As for whether Egyptians ‘discovered’ the wheel, or that Cleopatra died because she’d missed snake awareness classes or any other of those questions which remain unanswered in an empire that lasted three thousand years, remain a mystery.

{ Moon Beach North Dahab South Dahab }

3. Moon Beach

Moon Beach is in South Sinai Peninsula but lies on the Gulf of Suez and not that of Acquaba. The whole of this coast gets excellent local Northerly winds giving cross-shore starboard tack sailing. Occasionally in spring the Khamsin wind kicks in. Khamsin in Arabic means fifty, which may refer to the number of days during which it might blow or its speed. Either way it’s not that frequent which is just as well because it blows clouds of red sand around and has been known to stop battles! Moon Beach itself is quite close to Ras Sudr with its own small three star hotel, each room having its own sea view balcony and right on the beach next to the windsurfing centre. The centre itself, it’s new by the way, is equipped with Tushingham and Ezzy rigs and RRD and Starboard boards. Nightlife is limited but for the dedicated windsurfer who just wants good wind and a beer or two to chill with in the evening, it’s the place.

Secret weapons: The Nile kept the nation fed and still does. Most Egyptians were tied to the land and farmed and, with the annual flooding of the banks, came such soil fertility that the supply of food was rarely an issue.

Their finest hour: The great pyramid at Giza built for Pharaoh Khufu around 4670 years ago. It was the tallest man made structure in the world for over 3800 years.

A crushing blow: Knowing they were bad sailors, the Egyptian navy should never have accompanied Mark Antony’s fleet against the Romans at Actium in 31BC. It was bound to end in tears and it did with Egypt becoming a Roman province.

HOW TO ORDER A BEER IN EGYPTIAN: ‘Whahad beera menfadlac’

1. North Dahab

Probably the most popular windsurfing spot in the World with thirteen centres clustered around a sheltered bay plus a huge open area south of the sandy spit. It’s suitable for all standards of windsurfer from beginner to advanced and there are freestyle and speed areas here too. Courses to all standards are available at either one of the Harry Nass centres or the Neilson RYA centre.

Hire equipment is available from JP/ Neil Pryde and Fanatic/ North among others and there’s a British presence here too with Tushingham coupled with Starboard at Neilsons. The Corelia hotel is the base for Harry Nass, Club Dahab and Neilson clients but some prefer the Dahab Hilton next door or the Swiss Inn. Just for a change score a trip to Ras Abu Gallum by camel or just sail with the locals from the Lighthouse in Masbat down the road. Plenty of nightlife in Masbat (downtown) too. Try the Blue House for superb Thai food or if it’s full the Kitchen is great for sushi and a damned good vindaloo.

CONTACTS:

www.harrynass.com, www.bayviewdahab.com, www.sportif.travel, www.neilson.co.uk/windsurf, www.clubdahab.com, www.waveriders.co.uk, www.moonbeachholidays.com, www.plantetwindsurf.com 66

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2. South Dahab

A recent addition, the South bay has just one hotel, the Mercure Bay View and one centre run by Harry Nass. Primarily a kite centre (kites are banned from the main windsurfing bay) but if you want to windsurf away from the crowds, here’s the place to be. Any of the Nass Centre JP boards and Neil Pryde sails can be used here, the only condition is that you can waterstart.

Failing that there is a free RIB that plies between the south and north centres three times a day. The wind tends to kick in here a little later and it’s lighter than the main area too. A ride into town costs around 40LE as apart from the hotel and a small café around the headland, there’s very little night action.

Conditions are a bit like windy South coast sailing but the water is ‘tolerably’ warm at around 28C. The hotel is built into the side of a mountain with 228 steps from beach to reception. A great way of keeping fit or just jump onto one of the golf trolleys.

THE ROMAN EMPIRE At its peak the Roman Empire stretched across 6.8 million square kilometres and if you superimposed their territory over the present day of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa their territory in modern terms covered 49 modern day countries and that’s a load of coastline.

Julius Ceaser was their most famous son although effectively a dictator. With the whole of the Mediterranean under their control plus the coasts of Spain, Portugal, France, Holland and England at their disposal the Romans controlled the seas as well as the land - though it wasn’t always a pushover for them. Ceaser’s books about his wars tells us of the greatest naval battle he fought which was against the Celts of Brittany swelled by a fleet of their allies from Britain! Ceaser writes that there were no fewer than 220 ships in the enemy fleet.

{ ITALY: SARDINIA ITALY: LAKE GARDA TURKEY: ALACATI }

2.ITALY: LAKE GARDA

The Romans defeated the Gauls in 1 BC and Lake Garda became part of the Roman empire as well as a favourite resort for rich Romans living in nearby Verona. Apart from the scenery and generally having a good time, and enjoying the odd orgy or two there was another reason to attract them - a natural source of thermal water, sulphur-rich, with what the Romans believed were curing powers. The windsurfing is at the Northern end of the lake. Two winds dominate; the Ora and the Peler or Vento. The Ora is a thermal wind which blows from the South at around noon or in the early afternoon and usually reaches around Force 4-5 near Torbole. The Peler is a northern wind which blows early in the morning and can reach up to Force 6-7. As the sun heats up the mountains it disappears so it’s an early bird sail. There are plenty of windsurfing centres to choose from but try Charles and Alison’s (Europa Holidays) near Malcesne, which has the added benefit of getting both Ora and Peler winds so you can sail all day!

Secret weapons: Training. Historians generally agree that the Roman soldier’s weapons were no better than those of his adversaries but they were more proficient at using them. Each solder was required to practice the use of their weaponry daily. In fact the Latin for army is ‘exercitus’, which is where the word ‘exercise’ comes from.

FINEST HOUR: Too many to mention so just Google ‘What have the Romans ever done for us?’ You’ll find plenty.

A CRUSHING BLOW: Nero fiddled while Rome burnt but not before he had executed his mother and stepmother and crushed an uprising in England led by Boudica.

Facing assassination he committed suicide.

HOW TO ORDER A BEER IN LATIN: ‘Cervisia placet unam’

1. ITALY: SARDINIA

The Romans took over the whole island, without meeting any resistance in 238 BC and Sardinia became one of the main granaries of Rome until the Romans conquered Egypt in the 1st century BC. They also got their hands on one of the most wave rich coastlines in the Med. Porto Pollo, in the North, is the most popular venue for windsurfing and ideal for all levels. The North West winds though can reach some high levels, even force 8 at times. Beginners receive instruction on the protected, glassy flat, side of the bay. Porto Pollo had a number of moon shaped bays which are safe to sail in and ideal for people getting started in the sport. For the more experienced, as much sailing as you can handle can be done in the huge bays of Porto Pollo. Also trips are made to other spots, wind dependant, for the best conditions. For those who are at the level to get amongst the waves, there are many beaches and reefs to let rip on. Windsurf Village is a great one stop for Porto Pollo.

CONTACTS:

www.europaholidays.com, www.neilson.co.uk www.plantetwindsurf.com, www.sportif.travel www.waveriders.co.uk, www.windsurfvillage.it 68

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3. TURKEY: ALACATI.

Although there were around 12 million people living in the region in the late Roman period none of them were Turks as the Turkish migration from central Asia took place after the 6th century. Before that the area was known as Anatolia or Asia Minor and Rome allowed the local people to control not just the economy but even the military. This was also the setting for the start of the Byzantine empire. Located on the Cesme Peninsula, opposite the Greek island of Chios, Alacati is the main windsurfing surf spot in the Turkish Aegean Sea. It too benefits from the Meltemi winds from the North. It’s the usual Aegean pattern with the wind starting off moderate in the morning and then increasing during the day. In spring and autumn though the dominating wind comes from the south. The “Poiras” blows sideshore from the right.

At this time, nice small waves break in the bay. But even on days with strong wind, beginners and intermediates can enjoy moderate wind conditions in the morning and afternoon.

INVADERS

THE GREEK EMPIRE The Greek Empire lasted for about 1300 years but the time most people think of is the Classical period which generated much of the political, scientific, and philosophical thinking which is still much in evidence in the west today. It was the time of the building of the Parthenon, of Aristotle and Plato and ended with the death of Alexander the Great.

After that it all started to go pear shaped. A key battle was lost, the generals started to argue amongst themselves and eventually the empire broke up. An alliance with Carthage proved to be just the excuse the Romans were waiting for and they attacked Carthage. Having defeated her they turned East and did the same to Greece. Although the centre of the empire was Athens, there was a great reliance on the surrounding islands. Not all were friendly to the Athenians, but the island of Naxos, then the centre of Cycladian culture, was.

Among its enemies was the neighbouring island of Paros which soon got persuaded to the Athenian way of thinking.

{ PAROS NAXOS KEFALOS }

3. KEFALOS.

Ionian islands Lefkas and nearby Ithaca both lay claim to being the home of Odysseus, the hero of Homer’s Odyssey. The poem is basically about a fellow who takes ten years returning home from Troy, just a few miles up the coast. In his defense he spend seven of those years in prison and the other three in some well dodgy company but eventually makes it home to his loving wife, Penelope. The best windsurfing on Lefkas is in Vassiliki. It is open from May to October and has a gentle morning wind, perfect for learning in while the afternoon thermal know as ‘Eric’ is great for more accomplished windsurfers. The Club Vass and Neilsons windsurfing centres dominate the bay and both have a comprehensive array of equipment and alternative activities. The picturesque harbour of Vassiliki is where the night scene happens with the harbour lights attracting the island’s visitors, some of whom arrive by yacht. There are plenty of bars and tavernas whixh offer a choice of Greek as well as European food.

Secret weapons: ‘Yes and No’ in Greek are almost the opposite to what western languages use. ‘Ne’ means ‘yes, and ‘ockhee’ means ‘no’. The head nodding ‘yes’, the mouth saying ‘ne’ has led to many a major misunderstanding.

FINEST HOUR: The invention of invention as in ‘Eureka’ or ‘I have found it’. Another Greek, Pythagoras, also discovered the right angle triangle rule.

A CRUSHING BLOW: In fact the Greeks were so busy thinking that they failed to notice that their military strength had weakened as much as it had. Then one day they discovered people in the street were speaking Latin!

How to order a beer in Greek: ‘Mia Bira parakalo’

1. PAROS

Paros is one of the larger islands in the Aegean Cyclades. You get an immediate impression of the wind strength and frequency as the houses in the towns are all huddled together. The East coast of Paros gets the full force of the North East Meltemi with at least three great beaches. Santa Maria for wave sailing and Golden and New Golden beaches are the intermediate and blasting favourites. The Meltemi winds are typically force four to five but can be much stronger, up to force 8 and can stay that way, blowing night and day for a few days. They kick in around June and don’t really let up until September and they come in cross off from the left. The water is quite flat on the East coast except for Santa Maria in the NE corner of the island. Paros Surf Club is a highly equipped centre based on New Golden beach, The Club has RRD boards and North rigs as well as special lightweight equipment for youngsters up to 40Kg. in weight. Courses too at all levels, irrespective of age.

CONTACTS:

www.parosurf.com, www.flisvos-sportclub.com, www.clubvass.com, www.ocean-elements.co.uk, www.kefaloswindsurfing.com, www.neilson.co.uk www.freedomholidays.co.uk, www.sportif.travel, www.plantetwindsurf.com 70

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2.NAXOS.

The biggest of the Cyclades and the place where the Father of the Gods, Zeus, is said to have grown up according to Greek mythology as well has his son Dionysus, the God of Wine – an awesome combination. The Flisvos Sportsclub is based on St George’s beach close to the island’s main town. There are two centres a five minute walk apart. One based in a shallow lagoon ideal not just for beginners but also intermediates and speed aficionados while those who like it a little gnarlier will head for Flisvos centre and its beach side café where they’ll find great slalom and freestyle territory in force 4 to 5 winds and when the wind does pick up there are some excellent ramps which transform the area into one of the best wave sailing spots in Greece.

There is on the water access between the two areas through a gap in the reef. The club has its own hotel and there are a variety of other things to do on those rare occasions when the Meltemi doesn’t oblige.

INVADERS

The Spanish Empire In ‘The Golden Age’ between 1521 – 1643, the Spanish, and their warrior like Conquistador explorers, were unstoppable, and now the longest waves in the world break on Spanish speaking shores.

From the rocky, fiery Canaries in the deep blue East Atlantic across to the Pacific and its wave drenched points of Baja. Down the Pan American highway (with a couple of detours) to the longest waves in the world in Peru and the wild, untamed breaks of Chile, and finally across the ocean to the Philippines, the Spanish commanded a huge empire comprising of thousands of miles of the best windsurfing real estate on the planet.

{ The Canary Islands Mexico Chile The Philippines }

2. MEXICO: BAJA.

In 1521, Spain continued their westward march, taking control from the Olmec, Toltec, Maya and Aztec tribes. The Baja peninsula of Mexico is all that remains from Spain’s crack at the big-time in North America and California. The 750 mile long finger of rugged rocks and beaches extends down from California to create the sheltered Sea of Cortez between its East coast and the Mexican mainland, and a myriad of excellent right hand points on its West coast. The MEX 1 highway runs down the spine of the peninsula, taking you through the desert landscape. Turn right to find white sandy bays, crystal waters and an ocean rich in wildlife in the Pacific. Towards the north, upwelling currents give cool water whilst Los Cabos at the southernmost tip is washed by warm seas.

Los Cabos receives wind from all points of the compass and has a staggering 200degrees swell exposure, whilst up the coast towards the East Cape of Baja lies Los Barilles, offering a giddying 6 out of 7 days 18knots plus, all winter long.

Secret weapons: Smallpox, exploiting rivalries between indigenous tribes.

FINEST HOUR: Crushing the French (who attacked when the Spanish were busy in the New World) in 1521, 22, 25, and 29 in a series of battles for Milan.

A CRUSHING BLOW.: Was of course dealt by the English Navy under Sir Frances Drake, who scattered, chased and sunk the ‘unsinkable’ Spanish Armada up the English Channel, but only once he’d finished a game of bowls.

HOW TO ORDER A BEER IN SPANISH: Una cerveza por favor.

4. THE PHILIPPINES: Boracay

The Philippines were a real feather in Magellan’s cap. Whilst on his way home from newly found Chile in 1521, he spotted the cluster of some 7,000 islands and immediately claimed the lot for Spain. The Philippine islands were the first to know about it when the NE trades kick in, and of course any Typhoon swells coming from Japan, so at last Spain had a credible alternative to the rocky points and lava reefs that made up so much of their empire. Caressed by warm ocean currents and air temps hovering between the mid 20’s and early 30’s, the archipelago has some of the finest beaches in the world. A good place to start is the tiny island of Boracay which you eventually reach with combo of internal flights, bankas (a sort of powered outrigger boat) and tricycles (a motorbike for ten!). Board hire, accommodation options and the 1km long white sand beach at Bulabog Beach will ease you in over a few days.

Once you’re settled, strike out for Seco Island for an even more chilled out experience, and sleeping under the stars.

CONTACTS:

www.velawindsurf.com, www.lordofthewindbaja.com, www.flagbeach.com, www.windandwavestrip.com, www. waveriders.co.uk, www.reefretreatboracay.com www.sportif.travel 72

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3.CHILE: PICHILEMU.

Let’s be clear, Magellan did well to find Chile for the Spanish. In 1520, he fluked his way through the Magellan Straits (which he promptly named in his honour!) and discovered the long thin land which was under Inca rule. He scurried back to Spain, and twenty years later their army moved in. Although gold and silver was a bit thin on the ground, the farming was great as Chile was one of the few places that the Spanish had conquered that wasn’t made entirely out of rocks or desert. It may be the other side of the world, but getting to the wave battered coast around Pichilemu is a lot easier than in Magellan’s day: fly to Santiago, then take the bus for 5hrs to arrive in town. Once by the coast, the locals are cool, and during the Chilean summer, some lively nightlife can be found. This strong wind destination with one of the longest waves in the Americas is best visited from October to April. Other locations include Mantazas with 2-4 metre high waves, and Pichidangui which is perfect for slalom, freestyle and waves.

THE DUTCH EMPIRE

{ THE ABC ISLANDS: ARUBA.OS }

The Dutch did things a bit differently. Rather than go out exploring, they waited until the Portuguese and Spanish had found everything and then went and stole their land by brute force. Being tall and good at sailing surely helped.

This is the metaphorical equivalent of looking for secret spots by driving around all day, only pulling over where you see other windsurfers vans and cars parked in a lay-by near a cliff, checking it out, thinking ‘yes that looks OK’, then rigging up and blasting about, and generally intimidating the riders already out there until they pack up and leave the spot to you. It’s not an unproductive philosophy, but it doesn’t endear you to the ‘Big Dogs’ and so the Dutch naval force was eroded by the British, i.e. the goodies.

Secret weapons: Living in Britain’s swell shadow put a hot fire in the bellies of the Dutch, steering them to find lands with nice waves of their own.

Their finest hour: Was in fact a period of eighty years when they fought for independence from Spain. The Dutch traded spices in India and Indonesia, established a colony in New Amsterdam (ie New York) and generally had a great trading time of it.

A crushing blow: During WW2 the Japanese invaded Indonesia.

Two days after the Japanese surrendered, the Indonesians declared independence. Perfect timing for Indonesia but not the Dutch.

HOW TO ORDER A BEER IN DUTCH: ‘Een biertje, alstublieft’

1. THE CANARIES: FUERTEVENTURA.

The Romans originally dubbed these islands ‘Canaari’, which in Latin means ‘the one who worships dogs’ on accounts of Greek reports of the ‘dog headed’ people living there. This dubious moniker, the barren moonscape and infertility of the islands were enough to repel most people, except the Castillian Spanish, who in 1405 felt that taking over a land of dogs would be a nice warm up for world domination. Under the command of Henry III, Fuerteventura was the first to fall and the invaders found that the people were known as ‘Mahorero’ after a goatskin shoe and that one of the tribes in the North was polygamous with each woman having, on average, three husbands. But it gave the Empire a formidable early lead with the relentless winds of Playa Sotavento, in the South and the Northern beaches of Flag and for the brave hearted, Cotillo plus the North coast for wave heads. It was a good start, but the barren Canaries left the Spaniards hunting for a little bit of greenery. Flag beach beckons for great blasting territory.

THE ABC ISLANDS: ARUBA.

For once the Dutch found the tables turned on themselves. Since the early 1600s, they been enjoying the twin monsoon seasons of Sri Lanka, riding the right points at Arugam Bay all summer and the punchy reefs in the South West all winter. That was until word got back to Britain in 1796 and George III said ‘er, I’ll take that now, thank you’. Sri Lanka is more the sort of place you’d take a board and sales with as part of a surf trip, rather than head to for super consistent windsurfing. But what it does offer for such a busy, surf-charted country is an amazingly friendly going atmosphere, and a feeling of safety no matter where you travel in the surf zones. Nipping about from break to break is cheap – either rent a motorbike or jump in a tuk-tuk. The South West around Hikaduwa and Midigama can produce the classic early morning surf, afternoon sailing conditions and there are huge stretches of water between breaks for downwind potential. Arugam Bay on the east coast is a summertime spot, with starboard tack down the line wave riding potential.

CONTACTS:

www.velawindsurf.com, www.sportif.travel, www.beach-house-aruba.com

www.windsurf.co.uk

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INVADERS

THE PORTUGUESE EMPIRE Although the Portuguese didn’t have the largest empire, as far as the ages of discovery were concerned, they were early starters, colonising parts of Africa whilst England was still trying to take over Wales.

But there again perhaps they felt they didn’t need to make the effort as they already had some of the best of Europe’s wind and waves right on their doorstep. More important was their deadly selection process – the axis of Brazil and Cape Verde meant that on any day of the year, the best conditions in the world would probably be going off on Portuguese shores.

{ PORTUGAL: ALGARVE. CAPE VERDE: SAL & BOA VISTA. BRAZIL: CEARA }

1. PORTUGAL: ALGARVE.

Why Cabral ever wanted to find pastures new when he was leaving behind some of the best beaches in Europe is a mystery – perhaps it was just a severe case of wanderlust. As he set sail into the sunset among the hot spots he had turned his back on to go exploring was Meia Praia in Lagos in the Algarve, one of the longest beaches in the region, nearly three miles long. The watersports are concentrated at the Eastern end of the bay and at Windsurf Point you can choose from a range of activities and equipment from Severne and Starboard. The centre opened in 1996 and was recently expanded with a new Martinhal which is a slalom and freestyle spot ideal for any level of windsurfer, beginner to advanced. The town of Lagos is nearby and with a wide variety of bars and restaurants, it has a punchy nightlife. For those days when the wind is not up to the task, there’s an excellent golf course nearby.

Secret weapons: As amazingly advanced sailors, the Portuguese were predisposed to finding secret spots.

Their Finest Hour: When Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil in 1500. Or when Vasco de Gama reached India in 1498 – the Portos had it all going on.

A Crushing Blow: The Dutch finally got moving and chased the Portuguese out of SE Asia and Indo.

3. BRAZIL: CEARA

Brazil has the longest coastline in South America, and in 1500, Pedro Alvares Cabral landed on it and scored the lot for his country’s empire. Benefiting from some of the most consistent trade winds on the planet, it obviously wasn’t hard for Cabral to just downwind his galleon straight to the windsurfing capital of the new world in Ceara, the most easterly region of Brazil. Jericoacoara boasts smooth waves at the Point, a freeride sailing area at Sunset Dune and a wave sailing area at Malhada. The waves here get bigger the later in the season you go and peak at Christmas. Twenty years ago it was just a fishing village and even now it’s a 4x4 trip for the last two hours but there’s a good night life with restaurants and bars and great windsurfing. Icaraizinho is a recently discovered beach about 120 miles from Fortaleza, untouched by the main stream of tourism mainly because the last 35 miles access from the airport is over dirt roads. No hospitals, no ATM’s (change your money at the airport) and you won’t get everything you need in the local shops but 20 – 30 knots of wind blows here every day in a perfect windsurfing arena.

CONTACTS:

www.plantetwindsurf.com, www.sportif.travel www.velawindsurf.com, www.waveriders.co.uk www.windsurfpoint.com 74

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2.CAPE VERDE: SAL AND BOA VISTA.

The empty, sandy islands were in fact named after the green cape on the Senegalese mainland and were colonised by the Portuguese in the 15th Century. Sir Francis Drake twice sacked (looted) the place in the 1580s, but recognising the amazing quality of Ponta Preta, the classy right hander on Sal, the Portos kept a stranglehold on the islands. By positioning Sal at the forefront, and making out that Ponta Preta was the only real option, the Portuguese cleverly hid the delights of Boa Vista and the potential on the other islands – some of which are actually green.Today Cape Verde is simply the closest and best tropical destination for winter action to Europe.

Boa Vista is mostly empty and a week’s exploration of her sandy beaches and points with a small crew in a 4x4 is one of the delights of being a modern windsurfer. Staying at the Riu hotel (which has self-service beer on tap), you also get the world’s shortest airport transfer – it’s about 1 minute in the coach.