Front Porch | Spring 2021

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SPRING 2021

Remembering the

Sultana Plus,

Exploring the Great River Road


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My Favorite Farmer Photos

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On National Ag Day, March 23, ArFB Facebook users were asked to upload photos of their favorite farmer to show appreciation for those providing our food, fiber and shelter.

1) Danny Henley & Grainger, Lincoln Co. 2) Payton & Parker Stegall, Lee Co. 3) Ramey Stiles, Lee Co. 4) Rick Gesing, Grant Co. 5) Rusty Keller, Independence Co. 6) Dawson Oliver, Scott Co. 7) Adeline, White Co. 8) Bentlee Holt, Phillips Co. 9) Billy Collins, Lawrence Co. 10) Brad & Katie Henley, Lincoln Co. 11) Brad Henley, Lincoln Co. 12) Brad Peacock, White Co. 13) Briana Plyler, Hempstead Co. 14) Caleb Plyler, Hempstead Co. 15) Dayton McCarty, Stone Co. 16) Dennis Broadwater & Rhett, Independence Co. 17) Dennis Martin, Cross Co. 18) Hartley Edwards, Faulkner Co. 19) Hunter Williams, Faulkner Co. 20) Jay D. Brothers & Eli Brothers, Scott Co. 21) Jeffery Morris, Andrew Tidwell & others, Pike Co. 22) Jeffery Morris, Pike Co. 23) Josh Sisk, Johnson Co. 24) L.K. Holt, JR., Phillips Co. 25) Nathan Crouch, Independence Co. 26) Parker Stegall, Lee Co. 27) Harvey Plyler, Hempstead Co. 28) Tate & Aubrey Sisk, Johnson Co. 29) Tony Richards, White Co. 30) Tracy Broadwater, Independence Co. 31) Warren, Cross Co. 32) Huck Plyler, Hempstead Co.


You Deserve More. You Deserve a Promise. For over 70 years Farm Bureau® Insurance’s commitment to our customers has never wavered. In that time, local agents and adjusters have served communities all over Arkansas with home and auto insurance, and more. We believe that your family is part of our family. And protecting families has always been our pledge. Talk with your local agent to learn more about the Farm Bureau Promise.

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afbic.com


Porch Front

8 CONTENT Farm Bureau Matters Rich Hillman

Helping Farmers, Helping You Warren Carter

Remembering the Sultana Keith Sutton

Rural Road Stories Keith Sutton

3 5 8 20

Taste Arkansas

28

Member Services Update

34

Delta Child

36

Keith Sutton

Autumn Wood

Talya Tate Boerner

20

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Cover design by Bryan Pistole Cover art used with permission of the Hartford Steam Boiler Inspection and Insurance Company. Painted by Andy Yelenak.

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021


FARM BUREAU MATTERS

with Rich Hillman

ARFB PRESIDENT

I’ll Trade My Food For...

W

hen I was in Carlisle Elementary School many, many years ago, I often entered into some high-stakes negotiations. We traded our school lunches almost every day; my piece of pizza for your chocolate cake or swapping pimento cheese for peanut butter. At that time, it was the most important decision of the day. Sometimes the big traders would introduce contraband, such as chewing gum and candy, into the negotiations. I have an insatiable sweet tooth so you can imagine my trades were not the most nutritious. I can still taste those honey peanut butter sandwiches from the lunchroom. Those memories crept back into my mind recently as I contemplated modern-day politics and how the decisions that are being made impact food availability around the world. The “trading” I’m referring to is not as harmless as kids trading their school lunch. This modern-day game of trading includes decisions about access to food that are being made in other states, and in other parts of the world, building on political tradeoffs that have been taking place for decades, even in Arkansas. Believe me when I say the results of these “trades” will be coming to a grocery store near you. For me to debate any of those issues in depth, including sound science vs. political agenda, is not the intent of this article. Rather, I want to point out some critical challenges that farmers and ranchers are dealing with in today’s political environment. If the wrong trades or decisions are made along the way, it could impact our access to the food and fiber that we now understand can be at risk. Over the past several decades the American farmer has become the most robust source of food the world has ever seen. The main component of that food supply chain is the efficiency that science, technology and hard work from our farmers and ranchers have brought to their operations. That means using the right on-farm practices and equipment on their livestock and crops in order to

maximize production. Waste in this equation is the enemy and could cause today’s farms – which operate on very tight profit margins – unneeded strain and could even force some out of business. On top of that, introducing the burden of unnecessary regulation can also disrupt the fine balance of agriculture. But I want readers of Front Porch to know that with some of those issues coming at us like a speeding train, we may have to begin “trading” our food. In other words, geopolitical issues being considered for our national food supply will force us to trade our food for something else. The source of your favorite protein, favorite fruit or vegetable, your most comfortable pair of cotton blue jeans, or the new wood deck you would like to build this summer are all items that could be considered barter in this game of trade-offs. Why would you have to trade those things you want and need? Why would you have to make choices that have been a given all your life? The reason is simple: economics. There are always consequences associated with decisions. Whether that is our personal decisions, or it’s the decisions made at the highest levels of our civilization. The COVID-19 pandemic proved that our food chain – as efficient as it is – can be interrupted. For a while, many groceries had empty meat counters and store shelves, offering a hint of what it’s like to face scarcity. That recent interruption, thankfully, was relatively brief, but it was a sentinel that needs to be heeded. The United States has created the most efficient, effective and safe food supply chain in the world. But when unexpected or unwanted factors stress that supply chain, it can be slowed or even broken. That means we have to include our food supply in this very-serious game of trading. Sadly, if the wrong trades get made, prices could skyrocket, and the unintended consequences would be that we’d all have trouble finding some of our favorite foods and those who are struggling wouldn’t be able to feed their families. When it comes to that, it’s not elementary kids trading sandwiches at school, it’s a serious problem. •

Over the past several

decades the American farmer has become

the most robust source of food the world has ever seen.

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Porch Front

Official membership publication of Arkansas Farm Bureau Federation mailed to almost 190,000 member-families. SUBSCRIPTIONS

Included in membership dues ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU OFFICERS:

President • Rich Hillman, Carlisle Vice President • Mike Freeze, Little Rock Secretary/Treasurer • Dan Wright, Waldron Executive Vice President • Warren Carter, Little Rock DIRECTORS:

Jon Carroll, Moro Joe Christian, Jonesboro Terry Dabbs, Stuttgart Jack Evans, Lonoke Sherry Felts, Joiner Chase Groves, Garland City Tom Jones, Pottsville Terry Laster, Strong Jeremy Miller, Huntsville Gene Pharr, Lincoln Caleb Plyler, Hope Rusty Smith, Des Arc Joe Thrash, Houston EX OFFICIO

Magen Allen, Bismarck Dustin Cowell, Mount Judea Kerry Stiles, Marianna Reed Storey, Marvell Executive Editor • Steve Eddington Editor • Rob Anderson Contributing Writers • Ken Moore, Ashley Wallace, Keith Sutton

CREATED BY PUBLISHING CONCEPTS, INC

David Brown, President dbrown@pcipublishing.com (501) 221-9986 ext. 103 Fax (501) 225-3735 ADVERTISING

Contact Paula Caruthers at Publishing Concepts for advertising rates pcaruthers@pcipublishing.com (501) 221-9986, Ext. 109 Fax (501) 225-3735 Front Porch (USPS 019-879) is published quarterly by the Arkansas Farm Bureau Federation 10720 Kanis Rd., Little Rock, AR 72211 Periodicals Postage paid at Little Rock, AR

For more information about the cattle industry and it’s positive impact on the environment, contact the Arkansas Beef Council 501.228.1222

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Rhonda Whitley at rhonda.whitley@arfb.com Front Porch • P.O. Box 31 • Little Rock, AR 72203 Please provide membership number Issue #119 Publisher assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The Arkansas Farm Bureau Federation reserves the right to accept or reject all advertising requests.

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021


HELPING FARMERS, HELPING YOU

with Warren Carter ARFB EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

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ast year, I wrote a lot about working toward a brighter future for agriculture in Arkansas. Certainly 2020 was peculiar in that it forced us all to spend more time looking to the future and hoping for a return to our normal routines, but the work of ensuring agriculture’s continued growth and prosperity goes on, no matter what challenges we face. Critical to this ongoing effort is the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation. In my view, the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation is, well, the foundation on which we can build for future farming and ranching success in our state and accomplish our organizational mission by “helping farmers” and “helping you.” Launched four years ago, the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation is the 501(c)(3) nonprofit fundraising arm of Arkansas Farm Bureau, with a mission to “further understanding of agricultural and rural issues, and to support the agriculture and rural community through financial support for education, research, litigation and disaster relief.” Much has been accomplished since 2017, particularly when it comes to supporting agriculture education, community support and disaster relief, and we have high expectations and big plans ahead and I’d like to share some of those successes and plans with you. Since 2017, the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation has awarded $80,640 in grants to support agriculture education and rural communities and it has donated $115,000 toward disaster relief efforts. In 2020, the Foundation committed $150,000 to both the Arkansas 4-H and Arkansas FFA Foundations to support the development of new facilities and the growth of these important leadership development and educational programs, and it donated $100,000 to the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Arkansas to help offset a budget shortfall. On top of these unique and focused donations, the Foundation provides more than $100,000 annually for educational materials, a school Garden Grants program, educational trailers, teacher workshops, Grain Bin Safety events and many more activities to engage Arkansas students and highlight the role of agriculture

in their lives. The Foundation has also become the conduit for supporting the M*A*S*H (Medical Applications of Science for Health) program aimed at Arkansas high school students interested in careers in the medical field. The M*A*S*H program is meant as a way to encourage future medical students to bring their expertise back to the rural communities they come from and provide needed services. The success of this program and the Foundation support is visible in the numbers: • 9,000 – The number of students who’ve completed M*A*S*H. • 1,500 – The number of students funded through the Foundation since 2018. • 34 – The average number of camps per year. • 525 – The average number of M*A*S*H students per year, at a cost of $250 per student. This summer, we plan to build on what the Foundation will be able to do in the future by highlighting what it has accomplished so far during our first Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation Week, beginning Monday, June 7, and ending with our 2021 Trap Shoot fundraiser event on Friday, June 11. This year’s Trap Shoot will be held at the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation Shooting Sports Complex in Jacksonville, and proceeds from this year’s event will benefit the Arkansas 4-H Foundation and the Arkansas FFA Foundation. I’m proud of what the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation has accomplished so far, but, in terms of where things stand, we’re only in the planting stage. There’s a lot of work to do before harvest and many seasons still ahead. We made it through a challenging year and the Foundation continued its work (while helping others, like Ronald McDonald House, do the same). Now, to keep the support flowing for agriculture education, important rural, community and farming initiatives and disaster relief, we need your help. Find out more and see how you can donate by visiting arfb.com/foundation. The foundation for the future of Arkansas agriculture is the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation. Help us keep it growing. •

Since 2017, the Arkansas Farm Bureau Foundation has awarded $80,640 in grants to support agriculture education and rural communities and it has donated $115,000 towards disaster relief efforts.

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Sultana

REMEMBERING THE

by Keith Sutton

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This photograph shows the heavily overcrowded Sultana at Helena, Arkansas. It was taken by Helena photographer Thomas W. Bankes near 7 a.m. on April 26, 1865, just 19 hours before the Sultana exploded. This is one of only two known photographs of the illfated steamboat. (public domain image)

At 2 a.m. on April 27, 1865, just 18 days after the Civil War ended, the sidewheel steamer Sultana exploded and sank on the Mississippi River, seven miles upstream from Memphis. The 260-foot-long wooden boat regularly carried passengers and freight between St. Louis and New Orleans. On this day, it was en route to Cairo, Ill. with thousands of discharged Union soldiers who had crowded aboard at Vicksburg, Miss. Most of these men, emaciated and in poor health, had just been released from the infamous Confederate prisons at Andersonville, Ga. and

New museum to turn spotlight on

story of Civil War-era tragedy

Cahaba, Ala. Most would die before that terrible day ended. continued on page 10>>

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The water around the boat for a distance of 20 to 40 feet was a solid, seething mass of humanity clinging to one another

T

<<continued from page 9

Used with permission of the Hartford Steam Boiler Inspection and Insurance Company. Painted by Andy Yelenak.

welve days earlier, the Sultana had been tied up at Cairo when news reached the city that President Abraham Lincoln had been assassinated. The boat’s captain, J. Cass Mason, knowing telegraph lines were down because of the war, took an armload of Cairo newspapers and spread news of the assassination as he traveled south on the Mississippi River. On the way, he stopped in Vicksburg, where he talked to Lt. Col. Reuben Hatch, chief quartermaster for the Union Army. The events that followed led to the Sultana disaster. Hatch told Mason thousands of Union soldiers from the prison camps were in Vicksburg waiting to return to their homes in the North. The U.S. government would pay Mason $5 to transport each enlisted man and $10 for officers. Hatch knew Mason needed the money and he told him he could guarantee 1,400 soldiers, even though that was far more than the paddlewheeler was intended to carry. Mason readily agreed to the deal. The Sultana left Vicksburg, and Mason continued spreading news of Lincoln’s assassination all the way to New Orleans. When he was back in Vicksburg, his men worked to patch a leaky boiler while Union officials began loading the soldiers. The Sultana had a legal capacity of 376 passengers, but by 9 p.m. on April 24 when it slowly backed away from the Vicksburg wharf, it was packed with more than 2,000 ex-POWs, even more than Hatch had promised. Amazingly, two other steamboats could have carried some of the soldiers, but they left Vicksburg practically empty. When the Sultana arrived at Helena the morning of April 26, photographer Thomas Bankes saw the steamer’s

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mass of passengers and decided to capture the scene with his camera. Hearing that their picture was about to be taken, many soldiers scurried to the port side of the boat so they might be included in the image and almost capsized the massive craft. The resulting photograph was one of few ever made of the Sultana and the last photograph of many of her passengers. The Sultana docked at Memphis later that day where tons of sugar and wine were emptied from her holds. The boat then steamed across the river to Hopefield, Ark., where she took on 1,000 bushels of coal. They pulled away from the coaling station at 1 a.m. on April 27, but the steamboat careened against the waves as it inched its way upstream. Top-heavy with tightly packed passengers, the boat leaned left, then right, exposing the iron walls within its boilers to direct fire because the boilers were not full of water as they should have been. The boiler walls weakened beneath the intense heat, and an hour after leaving Hopefield, three of the four boilers exploded. Hundreds of men were killed instantly by steam and shrapnel. The ship became an inferno. “The water around the boat for a distance of 20 to 40 feet was a solid, seething mass of humanity clinging to one another,” wrote Sgt. James Kimberline, one of the survivors. Another survivor, Pvt. William Warner, reported, “…I found myself floundering about in the water, while the screams and cries of the injured and those who were unable to swim could be heard on all sides.” “Some were pinioned beneath the wreckage,” said Pvt. Phillip Horn, “and the boat, bursting into flames, was a funeral pyre for them.”

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The Sultana Disaster Museum has more than 100 photographs of passengers who were aboard the doomed ship. (Marion Chamber of Commerce photo) Heroes Amidst the Chaos Weakened by incarceration, trauma and disease, many soldiers stood no chance. They drowned, burned or succumbed to hypothermia. But out there in the darkness of that cold night were heroes who rescued many. There were no boats in the area because the Union Army had sunk those it could find to thwart guerillas harassing Union shipping. But some locals had hidden dugouts they used to rescue survivors. Others threw together crude rafts of logs and made trip after trip into the dangerous waters of the Mississippi River to save men they once considered enemies. Survivors told of the stench of burning flesh coming off the boat. Decomposing corpses were found for months along more than 100 miles of the river, including that of Capt. Mason, who never made his fortune. Many victims were never found. Around 784 of the crew and passengers survived. But because there was no accurate count of passengers aboard the Sultana that fateful day, it was impossible to calculate the exact number of dead. The military estimated 1,238 had died. The Customs Department said 1,547. In reality, the death toll probably stood at more than 1,700, with later recalculations suggesting a number close to 1,800. It was, by all accounts, the deadliest maritime disaster ever, with the number of deaths surpassing even the 1,517 lives lost on the RMS Titanic. continued on page 12>>

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<<continued from page 11

The Almost-Forgotten Tragedy The idea that the most horrendous nautical disaster in the history of the world should go largely unnoticed seems astonishing, but that’s exactly what happened. Despite its magnitude, the Sultana tragedy received little press coverage. Other events — the end of the Civil War, the assassination of President Lincoln and the capture of Lincoln’s killer, John Wilkes Booth — overshadowed the catastrophe and filled newspaper headlines in April of 1865. Many officials wanted to hide the greed and corruption that were also part of the event, so the Sultana story was not taught in history classes or passed down in history books. In 1892, Rev. Chester Berry’s book “Loss of the Sultana and Reminiscences of Survivors” was published. But during the next 100 years, almost nothing was reported about the incident. Thousands, though, did not forget the Sultana or her passengers: parents whose sons would never return from war, wives who mourned lost husbands and children who would grow up with only faint memories of their departed fathers. In 1989, Tennessee attorney Norman Shaw created the national organization Descendants and Friends of the Sultana, which meets annually to keep the story alive. Three years later, Jerry Potter’s book, “The Sultana Tragedy: America’s Greatest Maritime Disaster,” was published, making public the first well-researched account of the events. Chicago historian Gene Salecker followed with the 1996 book “Disaster on the Mississippi: The Sultana Explosion, April 27, 1865,” which built on Potter’s book with additional research. In 2011, Salecker and history instructor Louis Intres sponsored the first public exhibit of Sultana-related artifacts at Arkansas State University in Jonesboro. “This is the beginning of trying to tell the history of this boat,” Intres said. “It is a great American story. It is part of our history and a part of our heritage, and we should all know about it.” This was, indeed, a beginning of sorts, as interest in the Sultana tragedy skyrocketed. In 2013, citizens in Marion (the city closest to the spot where the Sultana eventually came to rest) joined with regional historians to form the non-profit Sultana Historical Preservation Society (SHPS). The purpose of SHPS is to collect, preserve, research and interpret the heritage of the Sultana and thereby foster a deeper understanding and appreciation of the community’s history, art, education and natural environment. Together with that purpose, the telling of the steamboat’s story and those of its many passengers is intended to educate all our citizens of the historic importance of the Sultana to U.S. and Civil War history. Since its incorporation, SHPS has sponsored three Sultana festivals commemorating the importance of the historic event, held three exhibits of Sultana artifacts and collected thousands of documents, which tell the human story of that historic yet sad event. Members of SHPS have been instrumental in the research and creation of several documentaries shown on nationally syndicated programs, including The History Channel, The Travel Channel’s “Mystery at the Museum,” the Public Broadcasting System’s “History Detectives” and a recently completed documentary produced by Hollywood actor Sean Aston and producers Mark and Mike Marshall. The publicity brought by these productions also has generated national interest in the most ambitious Sultana project of all — creation of the Sultana Disaster Museum.

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This engraving of the Sultana explosion was published in Harpers Weekly, May 20, 1865. An estimated 1,800 people died in the explosion and ensuing fire, more than died in the sinking of the Titanic. (Credit: Library of Congress) Front Porch

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It is our commitment to tell the whole story of the steamboat from its construction to its destruction

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This 14-foot replica of the original Sultana steamboat, reconstructed by Gene Salecker, author of “Disaster on the Mississippi,” can be seen inside the Sultana Disaster Museum in Marion. (Marion Chamber of Commerce photo) Today’s Museum In 2015, on the 150th anniversary of the Sultana’s sinking, SHPS opened the 1,000-square-foot Sultana Disaster Museum near the Crittenden County Courthouse in Marion. This facility is temporary until funds can be raised to build a much-larger, permanent museum. But it already has brought thousands of visitors from throughout the country, even with no national marketing campaign. Featured in the museum are a few relics from the Sultana, such as shaker plates from the boat’s furnace, furnace bricks and a knife found at the site. Also featured are many artifacts provided by members of the Sultana Survivor’s Association, as well as a 14-foot replica of the boat crafted by Gene Salecker. One wall is decorated with the names of every soldier, crew member and passenger known to be on the boat when it exploded. “It is our commitment to tell the whole story of the steamboat from its construction to its destruction,” the museum says on its website. “We also present the stories of the men

ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021

continued on page 14>>

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In one of the more unusual Sultana stories, Pvt. William Lugenbeal from Ohio was awakened when the ship’s boilers exploded. Realizing the boat was on fire, he immediately thought of the captain’s pet alligator. “I thought of the box that contained the alligator, so I got it out of the closet and took him out and ran the bayonet through him three times,” he later said. He then threw the box overboard and used it as his life raft. He survived and built this box, now displayed at the Sultana Disaster Museum, from the remains of the alligator’s crate. (Marion Chamber of Commerce photo)

who were freed from Andersonville and Cahaba prisoner of war camps and how, and why, they were grossly overcrowded onto one boat. We present not only the stories of the victims who were on board the Sultana but also the stories of the rescuers and eyewitnesses, and even the stories of the many Union officers involved in the selection and overcrowding of the boat. The event and the aftermath were a tragedy in many ways, not just the explosion of a steamboat.” A New Larger Museum Now on the drawing board is a much-larger Sultana Disaster Museum. The museum will be governed by the Sultana Historical Preservation Society and will be housed in a renovated 1930s-era gymnasium on Military Road in downtown Marion. The 17,468-square-foot gym will be expanded to 22,000 square feet and will include classrooms, a gift store, theater, artifacts from the ship and interactive exhibits that focus on first-person narratives from the survivors. “Our project is to create a permanent Sultana Disaster Museum that’s worthy of the significance of this event because we believe this story needs to be told now more than ever,” said retired circuit judge John Fogleman, president of SHPS. “In the little bitty museum that we’ve had, we’ve had visitors from all 50 states and 14 foreign countries. We know that with a large museum built to national standards, about 50,000 visitors would come to the museum every year. In addition, students from throughout the Delta region of Arkansas will tour the museum as a planned field-trip educational experience. All this could be a game changer for Marion. The new Sultana Disaster Museum will be a first-class site and will attract national attention.” Marion Mayor Frank Fogleman also serves on the board of SHPS, and his ancestors, like those of Judge Fogleman, were among the rescuers who risked their lives to save the Sultana

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We think 140 jobs will be created directly or indirectly by the museum, which is forecast to open at the end of 2023

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The historic Marion Public School Gymnasium on Military Road, built in 1938, will be the site of the new Sultana Disaster Museum. The City of Marion has obtained title to the 17,468-squarefoot building, which will be managed under a lease agreement with the Sultana Historical Preservation Society. (Marion Chamber of Commerce photos) survivors. He has a deep interest in the Sultana story and believes the importance of creating a new museum cannot be overstated. “The larger museum will give us an opportunity to achieve at least two things,” he said. “First, it provides a venue for telling this largely unknown story, which centers around the greatest loss of human life in U.S. maritime history. Through the museum, we can spread the story nationwide and give it its proper place in history, which it deserves. Second, it gives us a way to attract people to our humble community here in the Delta. Their stopovers will be an economic catalyst for Marion as they spend money in our motels, restaurants and other businesses. We fully expect there will be some synergy between our attraction here and Memphis area attractions like Elvis or sporting events. Maybe people will come to see Johnny Cash’s Boyhood Home near Dyess or the Hampson Museum in Wilson and make a side trip here. Or they’ll come to Arkansas to see Lakeside Plantation at Lake Village or the Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum in Piggott, and they’ll stop here in Marion, too. With the intense interest in places like these right now, I believe we could be right on the cusp of the best time we could be opening this museum.”

“We think 140 jobs will be created directly or indirectly by the museum, which is forecast to open at the end of 2023,” said Tracy Brick, president of the Marion Chamber of Commerce. “As economic development, that can be equal to a small industrial project. But the bottom line is there will be money that comes into our community that is not here now. There are people who will come to our community who are not here now. And our people who live here will benefit from that.” A quiet phase of fundraising has already begun. The Marion Advertising and Promotion Commission has pledged $500,000 for the new museum, and SHPS’s eightmember board has pledged just over $150,000. The cost of renovation on the gymnasium will be $3.85 million, and through a capital campaign set to launch this April, SHPS hopes to raise almost $4 million more to use for marketing, property acquisition, a signature film, architect fees and an continued on page 16>>

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endowment for operation costs. “The money we have raised so far has been mostly out of Crittenden County from private donors, foundations and corporations,” said Brick. “We’ll explore every funding opportunity in the county first before moving outward. We are planning a kickoff announcement of the capital campaign on April 27, which is the anniversary day, and we hope that Front Porch readers will be among those who support this important project.” “We study our history to learn from our past and not repeat its mistakes,” said Judge Fogleman. “But we’ve not told the story of the Sultana the way it deserves to be told. This is our chance to change that, and we need your help. We need your help to tell the story, tell it well and tell it to everyone.” Anyone interested in contributing to the cause should visit the museum website, www.sultanadisastermuseum.com, email sultanadisastermuseummarion@gmail.com or contact Tracy Brick directly at 870-739-6041 or tracy.brick@marionarkansas.org. A video about the Sultana and efforts to raise capital for the museum can be seen at https://vimeo.com/510296033. •

PLANNING A VISIT?

Tracy Brick, president of the Marion Chamber of Commerce, stands in front of the 1,000-square-foot temporary museum at 104 Washington St. near the county courthouse. With the new museum, she says, “… there will be money that comes into our community that is not here now. There are people who will come to our community who are not here now. And our people who live here will benefit from that.” 16

The current Sultana Disaster Museum, located at 104 Washington St. in Marion, is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and 2-4 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is free, but suggested donations are $5 for adults and $3 for children. For more information, visit sultanadisastermuseum.com or call 870-559-6731.

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Arkansas ARKANSAS BUREAU • WINTER 2021 Front Porch Agriculture | ARKANSAS|FARM BUREAUFARM • SPRING 2021

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THE GREAT RIVER ROAD

O

Story and photos by Keith Sutton

n February 16, 2021, Arkansas’ section of the Great River Road National Scenic Byway was designated our state’s first All-American Road. To receive this lofty designation, a road must possess multiple intrinsic qualities that are nationally significant and have one-of-a-kind features that do not exist elsewhere. The road also must be considered a “destination unto itself.” That is, it must provide an exceptional traveling experience so recognized by travelers that they would make a drive along the highway a primary reason for their trip. All-American Roads are considered the very best of America’s National Scenic Byways.

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“The Great River Road (GRR) enables travelers to access the stories of America,” said Anne Lewis, board chair for the Mississippi River Parkway Commission. “From big cities to small river towns, through historic sites and interpretive centers, the Great River Road holds the history of America, from native people and immigrant communities to river industry and transportation, and from agriculture to river life ecology. This designation gives credence to why so many people choose to experience the Great River Road every year.” A trip along the entire length of the Great River Road would cover more than 3,000 miles in 10 states, a journey requiring several days, if not weeks. The GRR follows the winding course of the Mississippi River from Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota all the way to the Gulf of Mexico in southern Louisiana. If you don’t have time for such an extended road trip, however, don’t fret. Instead, consider a much shorter trip — just 362 miles — on that portion of the Great River Road that extends through eastern Arkansas from Blytheville to Eudora. Portions of 15 state and federal highways in 10 counties comprise the byway within the Natural State. As you follow the familiar white signs displaying the green pilot’s wheel logo, you’ll have unlimited opportunities to absorb the Arkansas Delta’s unique culture, history, nature, recreation and scenic beauty. Here are some of the things you’ll want to see.

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Highway 61 Arch The Great River Road in Arkansas officially begins in Blytheville at the U.S. Highway 61 Arch stretching over the roadway at the Missouri/Arkansas line. The arch reads “Entering Arkansas” on one side and “Entering Missouri” on the other. Built in 1924, it is on the National Register of Historic Places. Sans Souci Landing At this scenic park on Highway 198 in Osceola, tourists will find one of the best views of the Mississippi River in Arkansas. Sans Souci, the name of a 10,000-acre plantation once located there, means “without care” in French. The park features several historical markers, including one dedicated to Mark Twain’s Plum Point (Plum Point was the name of Osceola until the name was changed in 1853), which was mentioned in Twain’s book “Life on the Mississippi.” Hampson Museum Travel south to Wilson and drop in the Hampson Archeological Museum State Park downtown. The museum houses an extraordinary collection of Native American objects from a Mississippi River village occupied 350-600 years ago. Exhibits tell the story of the Nodena community’s farming techniques, hunting, religious practices, political structure and trade network. A magnificent effigy head pot highlights the collection.

The Arkansas portion of the Great River Road runs through Arkansas, Chicot, Crittenden, Desha, Drew, Lee, Mississippi, Monroe, Phillips and St. Francis counties. Signs featuring the green pilot’s wheel guide travelers as they follow the All-American Road.

The northern end of the Great River Road in Arkansas begins at the Highway 61 Arch in Blytheville. (public domain image)

Wapanocca National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) Hunting, fishing, wildlife viewing and photography are among the outdoor activities visitors can enjoy at this 5,484-acre U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (USFWS) area. On the six-mile auto tour route, watch for wading birds, songbirds, beavers, muskrats, raccoons, deer, otters and other wildlife. For more adventurous visitors, there’s also a canoe trail leading through the refuge’s picturesque swamps. Sultana Disaster Museum The Great River Road passes through Marion where you can learn the story behind the greatest maritime disaster in U.S. history. The steamboat Sultana exploded on the Mississippi River there on April 27, 1865, killing more than 1,700 aboard. Discover what happened that fateful night and why this tragic event in American history has long been overlooked. (See article beginning on page 8 of this issue.) Big River Crossing At nearly a mile long, Big River Crossing connecting Main Streets in West Memphis and Memphis via the old Harahan Bridge is the longest public pedestrian bridge across the Mississippi River. Views from the walkway are unparalleled. Stay from sundown to 10:30 p.m. for the nightly Mighty Lights light show.

A fisherman can be seen from the Sans Souci Landing as he tries his luck for one of the Mississippi River’s giant catfish. This spot at Osceola provides one of the best river views in Arkansas.

This very rare head pot is the centerpiece of the archeological collection on permanent display at the Hampson Archaeological Museum State Park in Wilson.

continued on page 22>>

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<< continued from page 21

Horseshoe Lake On the Highway 38 portion of the GRR near Hughes lies 2,400-acre Horseshoe Lake, a beautiful cypress-shrouded bend of the Mississippi River left behind as the Father of Waters changed its course. This is a great place to stop for some fishing, with largemouth bass, bluegills, crappie and catfish topping the list of popular sportfish. St. Francis National Forest One of the most beautiful stretches of the GRR runs through scenic hills and hollows on Crowley’s Ridge within this 21,000-acre U.S. Forest Service area. Mississippi River State Park within the national forest provides campsites, bathhouses, a visitor center, picnic tables, swimming beaches and trails, plus great fishing on Bear Creek and Storm Creek lakes. At the confluence of the St. Francis and Mississippi rivers on the NF’s east side, visitors can stand on the shoreline and experience the awesome grandeur of both massive streams. Delta Cultural Center As you leave the national forest and enter Helena, make your way downtown to this Arkansas Heritage museum, which brings the region’s history and people to life through exhibits and guided tours. The visitor center is home to “King Biscuit Time,” the longest running blues radio broadcast in the world. At the nearby Helena River Park, a boardwalk and trails take visitors right to the edge of the Mississippi River.

Big River Crossing is the longest public pedestrian/ bike bridge across the Mississippi River. (photo courtesy of bigrivercrossing.com)

Bear Creek Lake in St. Francis National Forest provides a great place for Great River Road travelers to enjoy activities such as camping, swimming, hiking, birdwatching and fishing. The memorial cemetery at Rohwer contains monuments like this one, which says, “In Memory of Our Sons Who Sacrificed Their Lives in the Service of Their Country. They Fought for Freedom. They Died That the World Might Have Peace.”

White River NWR Established in 1935, this 160,756-acre USFWS area encompasses the largest remaining bottomland hardwood forest in the Mississippi River Valley. The visitor center just off Highway 1 in St. Charles is your portal to this natural treasure, where you’re likely to see everything from bald eagles and waterfowl to black bears and deer. Ask staff if water levels are such that you can hike to the largest and oldest living thing in Arkansas, the 1,000-year-old Champion Cypress Tree. Arkansas Post National Memorial Settled in 1686, this site was the location of the first European settlement in the lower Mississippi River Valley and present-day Arkansas. Visitors can explore its long, rich history in the museum and several exhibit buildings or by walking the 2.5-mile trail system with up-close views of the historic townsite, Post Bend, Confederate trenches, the Arkansas River and Park Lake. Wildlife is everywhere, including abundant bald eagles, white-tailed deer, armadillos, nutrias and alligators.

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Observant visitors at Arkansas Post National Memorial might spy an alligator or other wildlife.

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Rohwer Relocation Center Memorial Cemetery South of Arkansas Post, the GRR splits into eastern and western legs before becoming a single roadway again at McGehee. Some of the most interesting historical attractions are on the eastern leg (Highways 1 and 4), including this Desha County site where more than 8,000 Japanese Americans from California were interned during World War II. The camp cemetery, the only remaining part of the center, is now a National Historic Landmark. Those interned in the relocation center from 1942 to 1945 designed and built the cemetery, which has several monuments. More on the area’s history can be found at the WWII Japanese American Internment Museum in McGehee. Arkansas City Highways 1 and 4 lead south from Rohwer to this historic Mississippi River town. Once a vibrant community of more than 10,000, Arkansas City was virtually destroyed during the Flood of 1927. Today’s population is just a little more than 400, but there’s plenty to see here, including the beautiful restored Desha County courthouse; the restored home of John H. Johnson, founder and publisher of Ebony and Jet magazines; the Commercial District (Cotham Drug Store, Red Star Grocery, Ramus Brother Market and more), now on the National Register of Historic Places; and nearby Choctaw Island Wildlife Management Area recognized by the Audubon Society as an “Important Birding Area.” Lake Chicot State Park Twenty-two-mile-long Lake Chicot is the largest oxbow lake in America. This picturesque body of water, once the main channel of the Mississippi, was long ago separated from the river and is today a beautiful place to enjoy fishing, boating and birdwatching. The park, which has cabins and campsites for overnight stays, offers wildlife-watching tours on the lake and Mississippi River levee. There’s also a visitor center with interpretive exhibits, a marina/park store, picnic area and swimming pool. Lakeport Plantation On Highway 142 just south of Lake Village is the last stop on our list of Great River Road destinations in Arkansas. Lakeport Plantation, built in 1859, is the only remaining antebellum plantation home along the Mississippi River in Arkansas. Now a museum and educational center, it tells the story of the landowners, enslaved laborers, sharecroppers and others who lived and worked here. The museum is an official interpretive center for the Great River Road National Scenic Byway. •

Arkansas City features many historic buildings, including the beautiful Desha County courthouse, built in 1900 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976.

Preserved and restored by Arkansas State University, Lakeport Plantation is one of Arkansas’ premier historic structures.

GRR Travel Tools

All the information you need to plan a journey along the Great River Road can be found by visiting experiencemississippiriver.com. •

Drive the Great River Road app

Free GRR 10-state map

Interactive online map

Interpretive Center list

Agritourism options

Info on biking, hiking, fishing and more

E-newsletter sign-up

GRR road conditions

GRR news

And much more!

continued on page 24>>

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021


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i h c c o n G

FARM TO TABLE AT D O GWO OD HILLS GUEST FARM TOPPED WITH ROASTED PUMPKIN CREAM SAUCE WITH SAGE Story & photos by Keith Sutton

The meals served at Dogwood Hills Guest Farm, including this gnocchi with pumpkin sauce, are all gluten-free and “extreme farm to table.” 28

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021


A

stay at Dogwood Hills Guest Farm in Harriett (Searcy County) creates wonderful memories of many kinds. You can help the owners with their daily chores. Milk the cows. Collect fresh eggs from the hens. Feed, water and pet the horses, sheep, rabbits, dogs, cats and other animals. There’s also time to relax in the guest-house hot tub beneath blue skies or twinkling stars. Hike mountain trails through gorgeous hills and hollows. View deer, songbirds and other wildlife. Soak in the incredible natural beauty of Buffalo River country. These things are all unforgettable, of course. But the one thing many people remember most about their Dogwood Hills visit is Ruth and Grace Pepler’s farm-to-table cooking. Pretty much everything these ladies serve comes fresh from their farm or a neighbor’s, including a variety of produce, meat and dairy products. The homestead foods they prepare are decadently delicious and can be enjoyed as a farm-stay guest, during one of their monthly fivecourse dinners or by ordering through their online farm store. The Peplers came to Arkansas from New Jersey in 2007 when Ruth’s husband Thomas took a job here. They purchased the land that would become Dogwood Hills the following year, and on Harriet’s hardscrabble hillsides, they have created one of the state’s premier agritourism destinations. They use farming culture to teach others where their food comes from. “Coming from New Jersey to here has been a big community effort for us,” said Grace. “Some people say, how do you do all of this by yourself ? Well, we don’t do it by ourselves. We have friends who know how to do it all. Farming is a big community effort. “One of the things we love,” she continued, “is having people come in from the big city who really want to get back to their roots. We have a lot of multigenerational families coming: grandchildren, children and parents. And we tell them, come and experience life on the farm with us.” A big part of that experience is the Peplers’ farm-to-table cooking. They built a grand kitchen in The Loft, the upper story of their barn. And all who have sat at the bar there and watched them prepare a meal from scratch using local ingredients consider that one of the highlights of their visit. Ruth’s experience working in various culinary venues brings an added measure of proficiency to their cooking. “In New Jersey, I worked in some great restaurants, learning the front and back of the house,” she said. “While in college, I worked as a private chef and later had a small catering business.

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The Peplers make their own ricotta gnocchi from milk provided by Grace’s cows. When we moved here, I worked as the chef for a private boarding retreat and then on to our own farm stay, creating recipes for our guests and farmto-table dinners. “Farm to table is a big thing,” Ruth continued. “It’s really getting popular these days. And one of the things we say about our farm is it’s extreme farm to table. For example, 100 feet behind our kitchen is our fodder house where we grow the hydroponic barley fodder that is fed to the cows. We milk the cows and bring it here to make the cheese that we use in so many things. This whole process happens within 100 feet on the farm.” Their newest venture is their own line of glutenfree pastries showcasing Grace’s recently opened micro-dairy, Dew Line Dairy. “It is very rewarding to be able to craft meals and pastry that fit into specific dietary needs with food that we produce right here on the farm,” Ruth said. “I’m happy to say most people can’t tell it is gluten free — as it should be.” continued on page 30>>

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<< continued from page 29

On a recent visit to shoot video at the farm, we got to sample one of those gluten-free dishes — some rich ricotta gnocchi served with a scrumptious pumpkin-and-sage cream sauce. Even the gnocchi were farmmade, with milk from Grace’s cows used in the ricotta. Ruth made the four-ingredient sauce in a pan as we watched, then served it steaming-hot over just-cooked gnocchi in a pasta bowl. We ate every last bite, then asked for the recipe so we might try to make it at home. The ladies graciously complied. “We sell the ricotta gnocchi here on the farm,” Ruth said, “and you can even take one of our cooking classes where you learn how to make it. But this dish can also be made with either gnocchi or tortellini that you can find in the freezer or cold case at your local grocery store. The sauce works great with either type of pasta. If you like, you can roast the pumpkin(s) ahead of time and pack it in pints in the freezer to shorten your preparation time. On average, a small sugar pumpkin renders a pint of mashed pumpkin.” Let me say from experience, this is a recipe you definitely should try at home. It’s lip-smacking good for sure. For more information on Dogwood Hills Guest Farm, phone 870-448-4870 or visit their website at www.thefarmex.com. •

Ruth (left) and Grace Pepler prepare a delicious gluten-free meal of ricotta gnocchi with pumpkin-and-sage cream sauce in their kitchen at Dogwood Hills Guest Farm.

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i h c c o n

Ingredients • 1 small sugar pumpkin • 1 cup chicken stock • 1 cup heavy cream • 3 whole dried sage leaves, crushed • 16 oz. of your favorite gnocchi or tortellini, prepared according to package directions • Parmesan cheese (optional)

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WITH ROASTED PUMPKIN CREAM SAUCE WITH SAGE

Directions Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Place the pumpkin whole (pierced with a small knife) on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 90 minutes or until golden brown. Pierce with a sharp knife before removing from the oven to let off steam. You can split the pumpkin and roast open side down as well. Remove the pumpkin from the oven, cut it in half and scoop out the seeds. Scoop the flesh out into a sauce pan. (You can give the skin and seeds to the cows.) Use a fork to whisk the pumpkin, adding the chicken stock. Set over a medium flame and start to warm it up. Add the crushed sage and check for salt. (Sodium in the stock can vary.) As it warms, whisk in the cream. If you want a thinner sauce, add more cream and stock until you get the consistency you like. Adjust the seasoning to taste and heat through. Put the cooked gnocchi or tortellini into individual bowls for serving. Top with the sauce and toss. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese if desired.

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From our to FARM your TABLE U.S Farm Raised Catfish is the safest, freshest and healthiest fish available. Thanks to our hardworking farmers and strict standards, you can rely on that perfectly mild flavor year round.

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Congratulations Pete Pete Prutzman of Arkadelphia received the 2020 Lifetime Achievement Award from Ouachita Society of American Foresters. Prutzman, who retired from Kingwood Forestry Services in December, 2020, spent thirtyseven years at the helm of the Arkadelphia office. He served on the Arkansas Board of Registration for Foresters, the Arkansas Appraiser Licensing and Certification Board, the Board of Directors for Forest Landowners Association, the Board of Directors of the Arkansas Forestry Association, Society of American Foresters, and Association of Consulting Foresters. In 2015, Pete received the Outstanding Alumni Award from Penn State’s Forest Resources Alumni Group. He also donated countless hours to charitable causes including Rotary Club, South Central Arkansas Log-A-Load for Kids, Boy Scouts of America, church & the Humane Society.

ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021

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SavingsPlus Deals

B

eing a member of Arkansas Farm Bureau you have access to a discount program we call SavingsPlus. This program allows you to download an app on your smartphone to find discounts in your area. By having your location mode turned on your cell phone, it allows the app to follow you anywhere you go. Including vacation spots! Our third-party carrier, Access Development implemented this program so that you could get discounts to places you go every day and help offset the cost of your membership. To register on your mobile phone, go to the app store and search for “My Deals.” Log in using your mobile password: 101540-membership # (Don’t forget to include the dash) If you don’t have a smartphone, you can register on a personal computer. To register online go to www.arfb.com and click on the SavingsPlus link listed under member benefits. You will need to register and click submit. Once you have registered, you can start saving immediately. It will take about 7 days to be enrolled. If you experience issues with this program, you can contact support at 888-507-1397. My favorite most recent deal was a Shell Gas Station discount for 15 cents off a gallon! Have you seen those gas prices lately? Signup for the Fuel Rewards program online or

by Autumn Wood through a mobile device and redeem in-store. The 15¢/gal bonus will be added to your Fuel Rewards® account immediately after successfully registering. The 15¢/gal for your second and third fill-ups will automatically be added to your account after your first and second fills at the pump, enter your Alt ID or use the Fuel Rewards card to start saving. Savings is limited to 20 gallons per fill-up. Rewards expire on the last day of the month one month after they post to your Fuel Rewards® account. We would also appreciate you sending in businesses in your community to be added to our discount program. It is helpful if you are able to identify the owner or manager and see if they would be willing to be contacted by Access Development. This third party owns this program and has the necessary means and staff to enter the information needed to add any business to the app. There is no charge to participate but, there is a minimum discount amount to be able to participate. Please contact your county office for a form to fill out to be added or when you are logged in to the SavingsPlus site simply fill out the “Recommend a Retailer” link at the bottom of the site.

Save 15¢/gal on your first three f ill-ups at Shell when you join the Fuel Rewards® Program Number of Locations: 12,756

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Front Porch

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021


No matter what the future brings... we’ll be there.

LICA22021

WWW.SFBLI.COM


D E LTA C H I L D In Delta Child, author Talya Tate Boerner draws on her Mississippi County childhood to deliver readers back to a simpler time when screen doors slammed, kids tromped cotton, and Momma baked cornbread for supper every night. Boerner, a fourth-generation Arkansas farm girl, has been published in Arkansas Review, Ponder Review, and Writer’s Digest and blogs at Grace Grits and Gardening. She is the author of two books — The Accidental Salvation of Gracie Lee and Gene, Everywhere — available wherever books are sold.

by Talya Tate Boerner

The Things We Built M

y little sister and I were always building things. As I think back on our childhood, it seems our active imaginations must have been stuck on overdrive. Just as different seasons brought different weather, a change of weather brought a change in projects. During cotton harvest, we excavated tunnels in half-filled trailers waiting on the turnrows. During winter, we made snow families. Once, we built a small igloo in a snowdrift beside the house. When we were stuck inside, we created tents by draping sheets between our twin beds. A plain white sheet had the power to transform the smallest of spaces into a cozy hideout. The dining room chairs, lined in a row, became seats on a train. We were passengers going nowhere in Mississippi County yet someplace exciting in our minds. St. Louis or New York. Even Little Rock or Memphis would do. The living room became a frequent construction site for Barbie houses, Lincoln Log barns, and Ferris wheels made from Tinkertoys. Playing cards and dominoes stacked just right became livestock pens for farmer Ken. During winter, Momma patiently allowed our tents and trains and dollhouses to stay spread across the floor for days on end. But, the moment spring returned, she yelled with pent-up urgency, “Go outside and play!” We happily carried our imaginations outdoors. Everything was within reach back then. Doable. Buildable. Possible. Once, we built a backyard rollercoaster, the track made of warped plywood, rusty tin, and other castoff materials found in the pump house. Our rollercoaster ran across the backyard, around the doghouse, and over the chain-link fence, where it plunged to another section of the yard. Pulling stuffed animals along the track in a Tonka Truck didn’t turn out quite as we had envisioned. Pulling my sister in our little red wagon didn’t work so well either. Indeed,

36

our homemade rollercoaster was a far cry from any of the carnival rides magically appearing down at Cottonwood Corner that summer. We would not be deterred. After one particularly heavy spring rain, we built a bridge over a ditch to avoid quicksand (a constant worry of ours for reasons I can’t explain now). Trip-trapping over our newly laid bridge, the center board cracked and completely gave way. Yes, quicksand sucked the brand new saddle oxford off my cousin’s foot. Losing a single shoe seemed such an inconsequential loss in the scheme of worrisome quicksand, but Aunt Lavern saw things differently. She threatened to cut a switch and use it on our bare legs. Somehow, we escaped both quicksand and a switching that day. The good Lord was always on our side. Summer brought the most projects — secret gardens beneath cherry trees, swimming holes made from plastic tubs, hiding spots in Aunt Virgie’s chicken coop. The treehouse we built in the cottonwood tree may have been our greatest accomplishment. A few strips of wood nailed along the trunk made a rudimentary ladder. Two by fours positioned here and there inside the tree’s branches gave us places to perch. The treehouse walls and windows, the requisite No Boys Allowed sign, a rope and pulley system for hauling up cherry Kool-Aid and chocolate chip cookies — we imagined those things yet never got around to building them. The important thing was this: from high in our treehouse, we were as free as the birds soaring over Daddy’s fields. We imagined living there, hidden in the cottonwood branches, never returning inside until winter. Oh, to relive those days. Back then, we were too young to know we were building memories. We couldn’t possibly understand that memories created from sun-dried sheets and forgotten plywood would long outlast the thrill of a carnival ride or the lifespan of a cottonwood tree. •

Front Porch

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ARKANSAS FARM BUREAU • SPRING 2021



The everyday card for Farm Bureau® members.

Farm Bureau® Member Rewards Mastercard®

Eligible purchases mean any signature or pin-based, online, phone or mail-order purchase made with the Farm Bureau Member Rewards MasterCard. Offer excludes Cash Advances, Balance Transfers, credits and returns. Points expire after four full years. Program may change or be cancelled at anytime. Triple reward points on qualifying transactions based on merchant code, up to $1,500 quarterly. Credit Card plastic design may vary based on member’s qualification.

1

2 State eligibility and minimum annual spend requirements for membership dues reimbursement vary by state and can be found on farmbureau.bank. Please see Terms and Conditions on farmbureau.bank for additional details about the Farm Bureau Member Rewards MasterCard. Banking services provided by Farm Bureau Bank, FSB. Farm Bureau, FB, and the FB National Logo are registered service marks owned by, and used by Farm Bureau Bank FSB under license from, the American Farm Bureau Federation.FBMRMC_04.2021


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