Ariane delarue final major project

Ariane Delarue DEL10301635 BA W3D

DREAMS, EROTISCISM, AND SURREALISM

SURREALISM

Absence of any control exercised by reason, exempt from any aesthetic or moral concern

The movment “surrealism� is defined as based on the belief in the superior reality of certain forms of previously neglected associations, in the omnipotence of dream, in the disinterested play of thought

Questionning the notion of reality

Surrealism: play with the association of ideas given by the society.

Transformation of the task given to the object. Transformation of the essence of the object itself

Trompe l’oeil

Erotiscism in dreams

Eroticism in surrealist movies Louis Bunual

Bourgeois Lady

Option 1: Facing reinforce with organza instead of fusing for a better dying result

Option 2: Bias binding in the inside part of the waistband

Option 3: Sandwish bias binding at the top of the waistband

Waistband powernet part finishing: -3 thread overlock with elastication - 3 step zig-zag point The powernet is attatch to the crepe fabric with a 4 thread overlocker seam to allow the stretch of the seam. This prevent the seam to crack.

The choice of the main fabric as Mohair led me to the problematic of finishing and strenght. Therefore, to provide the weight of the fur to pull the weave of the mohair, I decided to use a piece of organza to reinforce the mohair. Also, the front part of the jacket is composed by a piece of mohair and a piece of organza (cut as the same pattern piece and use as one piece).

Soufflet detail

To many seams where ending at the same point, which was creating a thickness.

I had to try different seam restructuration before choosing the final one.

The photocopy medium has been very usefull in it’s efficacity and price.

The use of the fake fur for the inside sleeves gave a to thick and heavy look to the model compare to the rest of the collection.

Therefore, I decided to use a thinner and lighter fabric: moheir.

I also decided to extend the back slit down to the bottom of the jacket , and to remove the back fish skin closing system detail.

Seam: Side: french seam Bottom, sleeves & slit: pin hem Waistband seam: - 3 thread overlock with elastication - 3 step zig-zag - ZIig-zag stitch for the center back seam

Those sample where not successful because the look was ending looking too haevy in regard to the design.

Therefore I decided not to use mohair for the final piece but try to embroider lace instead.

Cup part test with mohair substitute (iced wool).

The facing is finished with a Pinking shears scisors, it also dosn’t have any fusing for having a softer effect. Therefor, the facing doesn’t act on the outside fabric of the garment

FINAL LINE UP