Arkansas Times - October 26, 2017 by Arkansas Times

NEWS + POLITICS + ENTERTAINMENT + FOOD • OCTOBER 26, 2017 • ARKTIMES.COM

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VOLUME 43, NUMBER 60 ARKANSAS TIMES (ISSN 0164-6273) is published each week by Arkansas Times Limited Partnership, 201 East Markham Street, Suite 200, Little Rock, Arkansas, 72201, phone (501) 375-2985. Periodical postage paid at Little Rock, Arkansas, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ARKANSAS TIMES, 201 EAST MARKHAM STREET, SUITE 200, Little Rock, AR, 72201. Subscription prices are $42 for one year, $74 for two years. Subscriptions outside Arkansas are $49 for one year, $88 for two years. Foreign (including Canadian) subscriptions are $168 a year. For subscriber service call (501) 375-2985. Current singlecopy price is 75¢, free in Pulaski County. Single issues are available by mail at $2.50 each, postage paid. Payment must accompany all single-copy orders. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents without the written consent of the publishers is prohibited. Manuscripts and artwork will not be returned or acknowledged unless sufficient return postage and a self-addressed stamped envelope are included. All materials are handled with due care; however, the publisher assumes no responsibility for care and safe return of unsolicited materials. All letters sent to ARKANSAS TIMES will be treated as intended for publication and are subject to ARKANSAS TIMES’ unrestricted right to edit or to comment editorially.

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Get outta town

his year’s issue of Road Trip creates travel itineraries, from 48 hours to 30 minutes, to Arkansas destinations. We do this so you don’t have to. We’re a full-service publication. Say that, like the Times, you’re ensconced in Central Arkansas and only have a morning or an afternoon to get away. We have some ideas for that. Or maybe you feel like a weekend in the Ozarks. Or you’re on the way to somewhere else and you need a break. We have some ideas for you there, as well. So, put a bike on the car, or a kayak, or pack a suitcase for a nice dinner out where the liquid refreshment comes in crystal. Maybe include your hiking boots along with your little black dress, and a pair of binoculars. We all need to get out, do some sightseeing, eat pie, spend money if we have it, enjoy what’s free, too.

FIRST STOP: Quick getaways in the heart of Arkansas.

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ARKANSAS TIMES

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Like the sun breaking over the horizon, our trip to Little Rock was inspiring. Visiting Central High School National Historic Site Visitor Center and learning about the bravery of the Little Rock Nine was a powerful experience, as was touring the Clinton Presidential Center and seeing the Anne Frank Tree sapling. Catching a great exhibit at the Arkansas Arts Center and a stirring performance at the beautiful, new Robinson Center â&#x20AC;&#x201D; who knew? You can enjoy all this and more in Little Rock.

Little Rock Central High School > To see more visit LittleRock.com

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CENTRAL ARKANSAS GET AWAY WITHOUT GOING FAR.

ARKANSAS STATE PARKS

JUST MINUTES OUT OF TOWN: The Little Maumelle offers some some serene paddling, wildlife watching.

4 HOURS

Paddling the LITTLE MAUMELLE

If the idea of still water, the sight of wading birds along the shore and ospreys perched on cypress snags, and maybe a fish jump or two calms your mind, rent a canoe or take your own — or a kayak — and put in at the Little Maumelle River. You float all the way up the Little Maumelle from the Two Rivers Park Bridge at the western end of the River Trail and paddle all the way to Pinnacle Mountain State Park, an 8-mile trip. In spring and fall, you can sign up at Pinnacle Mountain State Park for a guided 4 1/2-mile float that leaves from the boat ramp at the picnic area on the west side of Pinnacle Mountain. You can paddle on your own from there as well; you don’t have to have a guide.

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

Add an HOUR

For a hike at the RANCH WOODS NORTH PRESERVE

The Arkansas chapter of The Nature Conservancy’s newest preserve is comprised of fields and forest along 1.7 miles of the Little Maumelle. You can take out or put in at the preserve, which even includes a campsite for floaters. If you want to stretch your legs, take the hiking trail through the preserve: wildlife and wildflowers make this a treat. To put in at the preserve, take Highway 10 west from Little Rock to Ranch Boulevard; that will lead to the entrance of the preserve. The put-in point is close by. The preserve was a gift to Central Arkansas from Ranch Properties Inc. owners Belinda Shults, Rob Shults, Cathy Shults Rhodes, Ed Willis and Gene Pfeifer.

3 HOURS

At the I-30 SPEEDWAY

That vroom, vroom, vroom, vroom you hear when you’re sitting outside on a warm Saturday night in South Little Rock is not the sound of mutant mosquitos from outer space. No, it’s the sound of fellas in their race cars chasing dirt track dreams lap after lap in pursuit of cash prizes. Cars have been racing at the quarter-mile, red clay Speedway for more than 50 years, making it as much a part of Little Rock as such culturally defining institutions as Minute Man and Hank’s Dog House, even though I-30 Speedway has outlived them both. If you know what the Short Track Nationals, the Lucas Oil American Sprints and the Comp Cams Super Dirt Series Late Models are, you’ll want to head out to Ham-

mer Hill. If not, put on your trucker cap, head to exit 126 off Interstate 30, buy a ticket and a cold one, and get a taste of how the other OTHER half lives.

2 HOURS

At Toltec Mounds State Park in Scott

No, we weren’t the first people to settle Arkansas, and no, the folks who did weren’t the Toltecs of Mexico. The people who built the mounds along an oxbow of the Arkansas River more than a thousand years ago have been given the name “Plum Bayou” people by archeologists. The 19th century owners of the property, the Knapps, figured no Arkie Indians could have built such astonishing land-

ARKANSAS STATE PARKS

your pie first so you can be sure to get the one you want. Fruit salad is good, too, you health nut.

It’s 58 MINUTES

To Toad Suck Bucks

So maybe grilled meat and cold beer in the middle of nowhere is your thing. Take Prince Street west out of Conway until it turns into state Highway 60 and crosses the Arkansas River, make a right

L O C AT E D

on Hill Loop, then a left on Stoney Point Road and then keep driving until you find Roaring River Loop. (If you see Gum Drop Loop on your left, you’ve gone too far.) Toad Suck Bucks is in a converted shed with a big gravel lot that will be full if you’ve gone on a Saturday night. You can order ribeye, New York strip, top sirloin, T-bone, filet or the 26-ounce Hudspeth porterhouse steaks cooked the way you want. Shrimp cocktails and breaded shrimp and

onion rings and hamburgers and buffalo wings and pork filets also on the menu. And fried pickles. And chili fries. There are pool tables and a shuff leboard table and music outside on the deck. The beer comes out in ice-filled buckets. Some advice: Don’t dress up and don’t use profanity. Several signs warn against cursing.

BEAUTIFUL BAXTER COUNT Y

PREHISTORY LIVES: At Toltec Mounds State Park.

forms, so they identified them with the Mexican natives instead. Such dismissive attitudes toward Arkansans still exist. Be that as it may, the Plum Bayou people were a vibrant lot, building an 8-foot-tall earthen embankment around their ceremonial center and aligning their 18 mounds to mark the solstices and using standard measurements. Only three mounds are visible today; the plow took care of the rest, though their foundations still exist below the ground. There’s a trail less than a mile long through the park that passes by the mounds, including the low burial Mound C, the 49-foot-tall Mound A and the 39-foot Mound B and Mound Lake. A visitor’s center features artifacts discovered at the site and a display explaining how archeologists derive information from the dirt.

A F I R S T -C L A S S T I M E ... E V E RY T I M E . America’s #1 Trout Fishing Resort is Gaston’s. Our White River float trips for lunker trout are legendary from coast to coast. We do the work. All you do is fish – in style and comfort. Then there are the extras that make “resort” our last name. First-class lodging. One of the South’s finest restaurants featuring a spectacular view. A private club. Tennis and a pool. Nature trails for mountain biking and hiking. A conference lodge for your group meetings or parties. Even a private landing strip for fly-in guests.

Take another HOUR To eat at CHARLOTTE’S EATS AND SWEETS

All that thinking about the past makes for a big appetite, so it’s a good thing that Charlotte’s is just down the road in Keo. The burgers and vegetable plates and BLTs are good, but let’s be honest: The reason to drive to Keo is to eat the out-of-this-world strawberry pie in summer, or the fabulous coconut pie, or the German chocolate cake, the caramel pie, the lemon icebox, the chocolate pie, the pecan pie … they’re all listed on the chalkboard, and you order

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arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

JASON HO

24 HOURS

H t i m S T r Fo IN

ARKANSAS'S WEST.

Mattie Ross, the 14-year-old protagonist of Charles Portis’ “True Grit,” does not think Fort Smith actually belongs in Arkansas. She cannot help but notice “that big wide street there called Garrison Avenue like places out west” and that “the buildings are made of fieldstone and all the windows need washing.” In all honesty, Ross decides, “Fort Smith ought to be in Oklahoma instead of Arkansas.”

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ARKANSAS TIMES

BRIAN CHILSON

Rico native) Ana Maria’s painting of a winged bug man and an octopus woman eyeing each other. London street artist D*Face, whose “War Paint” mural of a Native American woman using a paintbrush as an arrow went up last year in the Park at West End, also installed five 1,100-pound arrows near North B and Grand Avenue, a work underwritten by the Choctaw Nation, and is the creator of “Bad Lands” at 317 Garrison Ave. There are 25 murals, three public art installations and more work on the way.

LET THE KIDS RUN OFF SOME ENERGY Just like Mattie, take a walk down Garrison Avenue. It’s the main drag for Fort Smith and in the heart

GOING FOR PHO? Try Pho Hoang for its Vietnamese soup.

Grand Ave.? For those who are not acquainted with this debate, let’s go back to the beginning. Some people are asking: Why is Vietnamese food the go-to eating option in one of Arkansas’s most Southwestern towns? In 1975, after the Vietnam War, a great number of Vietnamese people were resettled by the U.S. government in Arkansas, first at Fort Chaffee. Restaurants and grocery stores catering to and owned by the immigrants soon followed. Both Pho Vietnam and Pho Hoang are great, though Pho Hoang has better pho. It’s also got a great indoor design, with its name pasted on the fluorescent lights. But if it’s a banh mi sandwich you want, you might want to go to Pho Vietnam, its banh mi is a bit better. Maybe go to both.

court of Arkansas in Fort Smith, and it was there that famous Judge Parker sentenced 160 people to death in a 21-year tenure. At the historic site, you can walk the Trail of Tears, lined with informative panels on Indian removal, see the Commissary building, the oldest on the site, which stored food for troops; and the Visitor Center, which includes the barracks, courthouse and jail buildings.

BACK ON YOUR FEET

BOUDOIR: At Miss Laurel's.

BRIAN CHILSON

t is only the Arkansas River, after all, that separates Fort Smith from Oklahoma. Nowadays, unlike during Ross’ time, one can drive instead of gallop down Garrison Avenue (still unusually wide for a Southern town and evocative of the West) and over into the Sooner State within minutes. This gives Fort Smith, Arkansas’s second-largest town after Little Rock, a unique feeling of mixture. Add to this a sizable immigrant population and the town’s history as an outpost in colonialist pushes against Native Americans, and you’ve got a place that can be hard to describe. In the past two years, Fort Smith has become less known for its Hanging Judge Isaac Parker and more for its astonishing public art project, “The Unexpected.”

'BAD LANDS': Mural art has made the historic buildings in Fort Smith come to life.

SO SEE THE MURALS If there’s only one thing you’ll do in Fort Smith, make it a driving tour of the massive murals that adorn historic buildings downtown. A project of local booster group 64.6 Downtown (646downtown.com), “The Unexpected” project has since 2015 brought artists from around the world to transform Fort Smith. At the OK Feed Mills, 700 B St., for example, Australian artist Guido van Helten has turned silos into something spectacular with his three portraits of blue-jeaned folk collectively called “American Heroes.” On the front of the Kress Building at 800 Garrison Ave. is Houston artist (and Puerto

of downtown. If you look up, it still has the wide berth and big sky of the Wild West, but down below are the trappings of any normal downtown for a mid-sized city: nice restaurants, boutique businesses (there’s a fancy popcorn shop) and a Ferris wheel. Wait, what? Yep, there’s a Ferris wheel, at the aforementioned Park at West End, along with a small collection of other amusement park rides right along the river.

EAT VIETNAMESE FOOD Here is one of the fiercest battles in Arkansas: Pho Vietnam, at 2214 Rogers Ave., or Pho Hoang, at 2111

Walk around the Fort Smith National Historic Site complex at 301 Parker Ave. to soak up a little history. The first Fort Smith began as a military outpost at Belle Point, the confluence of the Arkansas and Poteau rivers, in 1817; its foundations can be seen today. Soldiers were sent there to create peace between two Native American tribes, the Osage and Cherokee, who’d been pushed into western Arkansas by colonialist expansion. In the 1840s and ’50s, Fort Smith became one of the gateways to the West as families and soldiers headed for the Gold Rush or to fight in the Mexican-American War; in 1851, the federal government established the Western District

MISS LAURA’S BROTHEL, ER, SOCIAL CLUB Miss Laura’s, 123 First St., is right beside the historic park, so you can finish off your stroll here. It’s a former brothel that now operates as a welcome center where you can see what the bordello’s rooms used to look like. It’s famous, primarily, as emblematic of many houses of prostitution that stood on the edge of Native American territories, where outposts lay. We’ll let you decide how to explain that to the kids.

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

64/6 FORT SMITH

'AMERICAN HEROS': Guido van Helten's murals on the OK Feed Mills cover 12,000 square feet.

RELAX FOR A BIT

MORE FOOD If you went to Pho Vietnam for lunch, you can complete the Gas Station Gourmet Tour of Fort Smith and go R&R’s Curry Express at 1525 Rogers Ave. (Pho Vietnam is located in what used to be a gas station and R&R is located on the side of what 10

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

64/6 FORT SMITH

Booklovers will want to now chill out in the perfectly dusty Snooper’s Barn, at 208 Towson Ave. If you’re looking for the newest hardcover, this place probably does not have it. But there are stacks of every romance novel and Western seemingly ever written — entire shelves for the Longarm Westerns (there are 436 in the series). In the back are stacks of yellow and fading National Geographics, some folded into plastic to keep them from tearing. You can flip through and see old photos. This place is everything you want in a used book store. Where else can you find a book dedicated to teaching hygiene to high school students in the 1980s? Or, a self-help book featuring a man crazily grinning on its cover? Once you’ve got something weird to read, there’s a coffee shop down the road called Fort Smith Coffee Co., at 1101 Rogers Ave., where you can get a jolt of caffeine.

UNEXPECTED: Another mural, Okuda San Miguel's "Universal Chapel," covers an entire structure.

still is a gas station.) It’s got great Indian food for cheap — most items are below $10. Two great Salvadoran options are Pupuseria Viroleña, at 1517 N. 11th St., and Restaurante Salvadoreño Norita, at 2901 Midland Blvd. Emmy’s German Restaurant, at 200 N. 13th St, is a pricier sitdown restaurant with schnitzel and sauerkraut. If you’re looking for a beer, Bricktown Brewery, downtown at 318 Garrison Ave., is an outgrowth of an Oklahoma City-based company with fun comfort food like Jalapeno

SPAM fries.

SPENDING THE NIGHT? If you don’t want to do the Holiday/ Hampton/Hilton shtick, see if Michael’s Mansion at 2900 Rogers Ave. appeals. The three-story bed and breakfast, built in 1904, is on the National Register of Historic Places and features stained glass windows, quarter-sawn oak woodwork and other neoclassic glamor. It has an art gallery, too.

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garden

WELCOME TO T HE

STAY I N A N D R EL AX , O R GO O U T A N D H AV E FU N .

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48 HOURS

E l l i V on t Ben IN

THE ART CAPITAL OF ARKANSAS.

BRIAN CHILSON

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSASâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;TIMES

BRIAN CHILSON

SEE, STAY, GO: Crystal Bridges Museum of Art is the big attraction; Walton's 5-10 museum is fun, as well. For some 19th century charm, stay at the Victoria B and B.

Day 1 DROP OFF YOUR BAGS (AND CHECK IN LATER) Art lovers will choose 21c Museum Hotel, at 200 NE A St., on the northeast corner of the town square. Besides luxe accommodations, 21c’s 12,000 square feet of gallery space exhibit contemporary art by nationally acclaimed artists. It also has a great bar and The Hive restaurant. You’ll be joined by big green

plastic penguins, 21c’s trademark bit of whimsy, at various times. Or, if breakfast with new friends is more your thing, there’s the Victoria B and B at 306 N. Main St. No penguins here, but it’s not fusty either: There are Jacuzzis and vaulted ceilings and baroque beds. French is spoken there, for an extra je ne sais quois. If you plan to spend two nights, check out Thrive Retreat, 401 SW A St.; your pet can come, too. If you want to do your own cooking, the B Side Loft, 412 SW B St., is a garage apartment. All are within walking distance of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, your next stop. (There are also numerous major chain hotels, including the affordable and recently redone DoubleTree Suites by Hilton at 301 SE Walton Blvd.)

100-acre ravine of Ozark hardwoods and landscaped to a fare-thee-well with native plants and sculpture, makes looking at art feel like getting a hug — even if that embrace is from Lynda Benglis’ metal lumps or Claes Oldenburg’s brain-like melting alphabet. The collection, indoors and out, is first-rate, from early masterpieces by Asher Durand, to the mid-century marvel the Fly’s Eye Dome by Buckminster Fuller, to Nari Ward’s shoelace installation “We the People” (2015). The Crystal Bridges trail, which pulses with the flow of families on foot and the fleet on two wheels, is one way to enter; you can also drive to the west entrance and descend to the museum, where Louise Bourgeois’ 30-foot-tall spider sculpture “Maman” watches over the courtyard.

HEAD TO CRYSTAL BRIDGES AND LUNCH

TIME FOR A DRINK

The walk to Crystal Bridges from the square is only about 10 minutes along a paved trail through beautiful woods. You’ll be ready for lunch when you get there, so head to Eleven, named for the opening date of the museum (11/11/11). On a scale of 1 to 10, it’s also an 11, thanks to a menu inspired by American comfort food (shrimp and grits, beans and greens, braised short ribs). The setting, on a glass-walled bridge, with a view of the museum and its ponds, beautiful light, with a Jeff Koons glass heart overhead, is both welcoming and chic. After lunch, it’s time for a tour. The Alice Walton-conceived and financed museum, tucked into a

No matter where you’re putting up for the night, the bar at 21c is the place to go for an aperitif. There is probably no label you can’t get here, from Balvenie scotch to Bulleit bourbon and beers and wines from around the world. Lots of thought and booze go into the cocktails, like the Rosie the Riveter (rum, apple brandy, cocchi rosa aperitif and mint) and the Kentucky Daisy (bourbon, grapefruit, ginger, lime and orange blossom water). So you don’t fall out, the bar offers cheese and charcuterie plates, hummus, hamburger, a wild mushroom ricotta, pimento cheese, etc.

DINNER TIME The shortest trek to dinner would

be from the 21c bar to the 21c restaurant, The Hive, where award-winning chef Matt McClure dishes up what Northwest Arkansas restaurateurs call “High South” cuisine. Up for dry-aged beef tartare? Pumpkin pureed with apricots? Smoked pork belly? Make a beeline for the Hive. True to form, 21c has extended art to the dining room, which has been given a beehive treatment, complete with giant insects, by Canadian artist Johnston Foster.

BRIAN CHILSON

entonville is the 10thlargest city in Arkansas, but No. 1 in the number of significant American paintings, thanks to Alice Walton’s Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. It is also known as the headquarters of the company Alice Walton’s father founded, Walmart. Before the Waltons became the best-known folks in town, there was Thomas Hart Benton, who was from Missouri but supported Arkansas statehood and was thus awarded with the town’s name. He was an artist, too. So Bentonville’s art cred goes way back. It will go way forward, too, when Walton’s nephews open a new haven of the arts, 21st century style, with the Momentary, a multi-use arts space in what used to be a Kraft Cheese factory. Rather ride a bike than look at art? There are 20 miles of bike trails, both for those who like to glide along and those on mountain bikes who dare to attack the Slaughter Pen Hollow’s jumps. It’s not your grandparents’ Bentonville.

SOME CALL THEM PANCAKES: But they're really crepes, at Crepes Paulette.

Day 2 EAT AGAIN! In good weather, check out Crepes Paulette, which serves sweet and savory crepes from its French-flag blue, white and red food

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

NOVO STUDIO

THE SLAUGHTER PEN: A trail for mountain bikers on Bentonville's Blowing Springs Tour.

truck near the entrance to the Crystal Bridges trail. Or check out Crepes Paulette’s sitdown restaurant with crepes, soups, fancy cold drinks and beer and wine. 213 NE A St. (food truck) and 100 SW Eighth St. (restaurant).

Do your children like chocolate? Then head for the arts and science interactive Scott Family Amazeum, 1009 Museum Way (the road to Crystal Bridges’ western entrance), where children experiment with the food of the gods in the Hershey’s Lab. They can also tinker, climb in a canopy over the exhibit areas, visit a homestead cabin, control a giant SpongeBob puppet … . They can even learn about the karst topography of the Ozarks, with the Amazeum’s cave, complete with the sound of dripping water, cavefish and bats.

BROUGHT BIKES INSTEAD OF KIDS? 14

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ARKANSAS TIMES

LUNCHTIME! Matt Cooper is a preacher’s son, so it makes sense that he should be the executive chef at The Preacher’s Son, 201 NW A St., an upscale venture of the Walton-led Ropeswing Hospitality Group. The restaurant is in a renovated church with windows designed by Fayetteville artist George Dombek; its menu includes gluten-free items that get an extra creative kick from glutenintolerant Cooper. It’s newly opened

for lunch. Or head to the The Pressroom. A small venue with excellent coffee when it opened, it moved to a bigger edition a few years ago and now serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in chic digs at 100 NW Second St. Don’t be surprised by the cucumber in your water.

downtown entrance to the Crystal Bridges Trail) is a splash park, with jets of water spouting up to cool your sweaty tykes. In winter, it’s an ice rink, where Southerners learn how to stand and move in skates the way Northerners do from the moment they begin walking.

LEARN ABOUT HOW SAM WALTON MADE HIS BUNDLE The Walmart Museum is set in the former Walton’s 5 & 10 on the square. It tells of Sam Walton’s rise from running a Ben Franklin store in Newport to opening his own store in 1950 in Bentonville. The rest is history — told with photographs, documents, a recreation of Walton’s office, the old red truck he was famous for driving and hauling Old Roy in, a gift shop and a soda fountain.

SPLASH WITH KIDS In summer, Lawrence Park Plaza (conveniently located across from the

BRIAN CHILSON

BROUGHT YOUR KIDS? YOU’RE IN LUCK.

Like virtually every other new development in Bentonville, the Walton family is behind this attraction: the biking and hiking trails that traverse the length of the town, 22 routes in all that circle Lake Bella Vista in the north to the Razorback Regional Greenway in the south that goes all the way to Fayetteville. There are trails for everyone from cruisers who like to just get from one spot to another to bruisers who tackle the Slaughter Pen Mountain Bike Trail.

NATIVE ART: At the Museum of Native American History.

SEE NATIVE AMERICAN ARTIFACTS If you can put aside your qualms about how the grave goods in the Museum of Native American History, 202 SW O St., were acquired,

Another place to have an adult beverage is back at The Preacher’s Son, in the Undercroft Bar below the restaurant. An Undercroft Sazerac, made with Old Overholt rye whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters and lemon peel in an absinthe-washed glass, adds a little touch of the Big Easy to Bentonville.

THEN EAT DINNER When Crystal Bridges was under construction, the coastal smarts hired to come to work on the museum heard a new restaurant was coming to town: Tuscan Trotter. That’s what they heard, anyway. But what really opened was Tusk & Trotter American Brasserie, 110 SE A St., a name that nods to the Razorback scene in Northwest Arkansas. In a nod to the hog, pork rinds, pork belly, pork shanks and pig ear nachos number among the beef and chicken dishes. Nice bar scene here, and you can get bacon in your booze. Other locally owned places to land: There are many. Check out Table Mesa, 108 E. Central Ave., for Latin cuisine, Thai Kitchen, 707 SW A St., for … Thai.

BEFORE YOU LEAVE TOWN … Stop by Pink House Alchemy, 1010 SW A St., and pick up one or two or more of the simple syrups this local business creates to flavor your cocktail or nonalcoholic spritzers. Find Ginger Shrub, House Bitters, Grapefruit Bitters, Dark Cherry Grenadine, Mexican Chile Simple Syrup, Hazelnut, and, yes, Pumpkin Butternut Spice — they inspire lots of drink ideas, no? Pink House is only open weekdays, but holds special events on some Saturdays, so you might find them in. Find a schedule on Facebook, @ PhAlchemyHandcraftedSimpleSyrups.

BRING YOUR KAYAK WITH YOU? Siloam Springs, just a jog up the road from Bentonville, has something unique for kayakers: The Siloam Springs Kayak Park just south of town. The park is part of the Illinois River, and includes engineered rapids for folks to practice on (best at a flow of between 200 and 600 cubic feet per second). It’s also open to tubing and swimming and general recreation; if a flood stage of 13 feet is predicted, the park will close. Check out a video of the park at siloamspringskayakpark. com. If you left your kayak at home so you could bring your bike, you can hit Siloam Springs’ miles of mountain bike trails, including a new 5-mile stretch along Sager Creek that connects to other trails on the north and west sides of the John Brown University campus. After all that activity, you’ll be hungry, so go to famed restaurateur Miles James’ Twenty-Eight Springs, 100 E. University St. The versatile James has come up with a menu that includes burgers and seared salmon, chicken-fried steak and a spinach, kale and mushroom lasagna. Something for everyone, see. Online reviewers raved over the desserts; make ours a Mai Tai with Plantation Stiggins’ Fancy pineapple rum, El Dorado rum, house-made orgeat (simple syrup with almonds), housemade triple sec and lime juice.

Just a half-hour east of Bentonville is the Pea Ridge National Military Park. Even if the idea of a battleground doesn’t light your fire, this 4,300-acre park, which commemorates the most significant battle of the Civil War west of the Mississippi, is a good stop for all history lovers. You can drive the circumference of the park; stop at the overlook on Elkhorn Mountain and look down into the plain and imagine 26,000 men fighting for two days. The visitor center here has a film and helpful park rangers eager to tell you about minie balls and such.

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BEFORE YOU HEAD DOWN I-49 BACK HOME

RELAX WITH A DRINK

DETOUR!

you and your kids may enjoy a trip to this museum, which displays the private collection of a Bentonville resident along with items borrowed from the University of Arkansas at Fayetteville. Arrowheads, bows, clothing and ceramics from all parts of North America are on display.

ROCK(

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS Grumpy’s Too Neighborhood Bar & Grill Heights Corner Market

Homer’s West Lazy Pete’s Fish and Shrimp Midtown Billiards

FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED SINCE 1959!

ARKANSAS NATIONAL GUARD MUSEUM

LOCATED ON CAMP ROBINSON, NORTH LITTLE ROCK Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00 am – 3:00 pm Take exit 150 off I-40 and follow signs to Camp Robinson 501.212.5215 • arngmuseum.com

To come on Post you will need a driver’s license, proof of insurance, and vehicle registration.

êat with a french accent 479.250.1110 • www.crepespaulette.com Two locations in Bentonville: 100 SW 8th St (restaurant) 213 NE A St (foodtruck)

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

24 HOURS

s r e g o r & e l a Springd THEY'RE NOT FLYOVER CITIES.

DON'T REST UNTIL YOU SEE IT: The Van Winkle Trail leads to the ruins of Peter Van Winkle's sawmill.

hese days, as you drive up Interstate 49, Springdale and Rogers (and little Lowell) are indistinguishable from Fayetteville and Bentonville, so fast is that neck of the woods growing, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stop between Hogville and Art City, especially if you like real Mexican food. Yes, Springdale has been named Poultry Capital of Arkansas but it’s not chickens, chickens, chickens. Well, it is Tyson, Tyson, Tyson. But Springdale is also the home of the Rodeo of the Ozarks and the Northwest Arkansas Naturals, a Texas League baseball team that plays at Arvest Stadium. It’s got Mexican food, too! And what goes best with Mexican food? Beer! Rogers may be known for its historic brick streets, huge shopping mall and antiquing, but Main Street Rogers and craft brewers have brought the town some 21st century cred.

WITH THAT IN MIND: EAT BREAKFAST Since you’ll be eating Mexican food at lunch or dinner, have breakfast at IDK? Cafe, 4301

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ARKANSAS TIMES

ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

Pleasant Crossing Blvd. in Rogers. The Eaton family trades with local farmers, bakeries, coffee companies and chocolatiers to stock its kitchen, which turns out Wild Hawg Breakfast Wraps, breakfast paninis, Piggies in a Bagel, biscuits and gravy and other hearty starts to a day of Northwest Arkansas roaming. It also caters for the NWA Naturals, if you’re headed to the baseball game.

WALK IT OFF AT HOBBS STATE PARK Only 23 minutes from Springdale on U.S. Highway 412, Hobbs State Park is a place all Arkansans should visit. It’s the largest state park in Arkansas, and its limestone underpinnings means you’ll find such natural wonders as sinkholes and disappearing streams among the valleys and ridges. Mountain bikers and horseback riders can travel a 24-mile Hidden Diversity Trail; history lovers can take the historic Van Winkle Trail (as in Peter, not Rip) to see the ruins of a 19th century sawmill. Bird lovers know Hobbs State Park well: Kids can take

BRIAN CHILSON

IF YOU'VE GOT THE TIME: Ozark Brew Co. has the cold ones.

part in the bird catch-and-release program at the visitor center; grown-ups can go on tours to see loons on Beaver Lake, which can be accessed from the park at several points.

FILL UP AGAIN AT LUNCH WITH MEXICAN FOOD There may be more Mexican restaurants per square mile in Springdale than in any other spot in Arkansas. An expert we know in Fayetteville likes all of them. Taqueria Guanajuato at 103 N. Thompson St. — named for the silver-mining town in Mexico famed for its El Museo de las Momias (The Museum of the Mummies) — is simple, colorful and can dish up hamburgers as well as tripa. Visit teamspringdale.com/ tacotour for a map and list of more taco trucks to try. You should also stop by Asian Amigo Supermarket at 2201 S. Thompson St. if for no other reason than to support extensive options of Mexican and Asian hot sauces being sold in close proximity.

AFTERNOON SHOPPING IN ROGERS You could visit the vast Pinnacle Hills Promenade, but we’d suggest shopping in the historic district instead — and you can do much of it on one street! Shop for wooden kitchen tools from Arkansas artisans (the Honeycomb Kitchen Shop, 213 W. Walnut St.), go

antiquing (The Rusty Chair, 109 W. Walnut St.; Vintage Antiques II, 120 W. Walnut; Somewhere in Time, 717 W. Walnut; The Green Box, 1305 W. Walnut) and spend a little money and get a history lesson, too, at the Daisy Airgun Museum (202 W. Walnut), where you’ll find vintage and new BB guns. If it’s a locally owned toy store you’re looking for, head over to Dilly Dally’s at 3301 S. Market St. Also find bikes, hunting and fishing gear, even a beef jerky outlet. Then it’s time for a cold one.

DRINK CRAFT BEER … OR CIDER Ozark Beer Co. opened shop off the beaten path in Rogers in 2013 to wide acclaim and demand. Earlier this year, it moved to the old Rogers Milling Co. on the downtown Rogers square (109 N. Arkansas St.), where the brewery plans to ramp up distribution. It’s still getting everything squared away in the new location before offering tours, but the taproom is a great place to try the farmhouses, saisons, barrelaged beers and beers brewed with ingredients foraged from co-owner Lacie Bray’s family farm. There’s a little nook with games and toys for the kiddos, too. Or head down the road to Springdale to Black Apple Crossing (321 E. Emma St.), Arkansas’s first and only cidery in modern times. The brewers use only local and regional ingredients in their hard apple ciders, which come in dry, semi-sweet and hoppy varieties.

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OCTOBER 21-29 (2 WEEKENDS!) WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GOOD BURGER?

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PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS

Lagniappe at 610 Center B-side Bistro Big Orange Big Whiskey Boulevard Bistro Burger 21 Cache

Copper Grill Crazee’s Cool Cafe Dizzy’s Gypsy Bistro Doe’s Eat Place Dugan’s Pub Four Quarter Bar Gigi’s Soul Cafe & Lounge FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED SINCE 1959!

11200 W. Markham 501-223-3120 www.colonialwineshop.com facebook.com/colonialwines

10/25–10

/31/17

SCOTCH – WHISKEY – VODKA – TEQUILA

Famous Grouse Blended Scotch Whiskey $36.99 Everyday $41.49

Jack Daniel’s Black Label Tennessee Whiskey $39.98 Everyday $46.99 Russian Standard Vodka $21.98 Everyday $27.99

El Jimador Silver & Reposado Tequila $27.97 Everyday $32.99 CONNOISSEUR SELECTION (750 mL)

Dewar’s 12yo Blended Scotch Whiskey $27.98 Everyday $35.99 The Sexton Single Malt Irish Whiskey $20.98 Everyday $25.99 Don Julio Blanco Tequila $38.98 Everyday $49.99 Stoli Vodka & Flavors $19.98 Everyday $23.99

1.5 LITER WINE SELECTION Cavit Pinot Noir & Pinot Grigio $13.99 Everyday $17.99

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Cabernet, Carmenere, Merlot, Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Noir & Sauvignon Blanc $8.98 Everyday $10.99 WINE SELECTION (750 mL)

Tuck Beckstoffer Meleè 2014 Grenache $31.98 Everyday $39.99

Michele Chiarlo 2015 Nivole Moscato d’Asti $18.98 Everyday $24.99 Sea Monster 2015 Eclectic White Blend $12.98 Everyday $16.99 Moet & Chandon Imperial Brut Champagne $39.98 Everyday $65.99 Elouan 2015 Oregon Pinot Noir $17.97 Everyday $22.99

BEST LIQUOR STORE

3FOR THURSDAY – Purchase 3 or more of any 750ml spirits, receive 15% off *unless otherwise discounted or on sale. arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

48 HOURS

E l l i v e t t Faye IN

MORE THAN JUST WOO-PIG.

NOVO STUDIO

RIDING THE RAZORBACK: You can see Fayetteville from atop a bike on the Razorback Regional Greenway, which will take you all the way to Bentonville, too.

he Hogs will forever reign supreme up on the hill in Fayetteville — even when the football and basketball teams are in shambles. But say, “Who pig?” and plan your visit on a weekend when there’s not a big game. You might want to bring a bike and use the Razorback Regional Greenway to pedal around town and all the way north to Bentonville. That would help you burn off all the calories you’re going to pile on touring Fayetteville’s fantastic food and bar scene.

Day 1: START WITH A BURGER IN A BASEMENT “Housed in a cellar location straight out of a Beat poem, it’s the kind of place that’ll make even an oldster feel like the clock has been wound back to the glory days the

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ARKANSAS TIMES

minute you walk in the door,” the Arkansas Times once wrote in a review of Hugo’s (25 1/2 N. Block Ave.), a Fayetteville institution since 1977. Most of the decor appears not to have changed since then. Hugo’s will hopefully forever be a bit dingy. That’s the way we like it. There’s no better place in Fayetteville to grab a burger and a beer.

BUY BOOKS, RECORDS The best book shopping in Arkansas is in Fayetteville. Dickson Street Bookshop (325 W. Dickson St.), where used and out-of-print books are bought and sold (“where good books go to good people” is the store’s motto), is a rabbit warren of literary delights in which bibliophiles can happily lose an hour or two. Nightbird Books (205 W. Dickson St.) sells a smart and broad collection of new books for adults and children. It’s got everything an indie bookstore fan could want: pet

birds to admire, an in-store coffee shop and comfy chairs. Block Street Records (17 N. Block Ave.) is the record shop every college town should have now that the kids are buying vinyl again. It’s got a wide selection of obscure as well as popular new and used albums, a knowledgeable staff, and it’s open daily with hours that stretch to 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.

YOU NEED NATURE And Lake Fayetteville and the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks will provide. You didn’t bring a boat, of course, but no worry: Lake Fayetteville will rent you one for its calm, no-wake waters. Or climb back on your mountain bike and check out the surrounding area. The 6.9-mile nature trail is a destination for bird watchers and others who like to walk in the woods, and it goes right by the Botanical Garden. There’s a $7 ticket, but you’ll see 12 themed gardens, a

butterfly house and learn about bats or succulents or tea — whatever is being offered in the garden’s educational program.

GRAB A DRINK AND SOME NOSTALGIA Maxine Miller sits at the head of the table of the Arkansas Bar Hall of Fame (which does not, but should, exist!). As a 24-year-old single woman in 1950, she opened Maxine’s Tap Room at 107 N. Block Ave. For more than 50 years, Miller presided over the smoky shotgun bar, perched on the only green stool in a line of a red ones, sipping coffee and playing dominos, while generations of students stopped in for cold beer, a beloved jukebox and a try on an arcade bowling game known as “Ding Ding.” In her later years, Miller sold T-shirts that read, “It was your parents’ bar. Now it’s yours.” When Miller died in 2006, her family kept the bar open, but a fire forced it to

BRIAN CHILSON

FUN AND FOOD: At JJ's Beer Garden and Brewing, aka JBGB, you can eat, play and call the Hogs.

BRIAN CHILSON

STAY DOWNTOWN … OR ON THE OUTSKIRTS

UNDERGROUND BURGERS: Hugo's has everybody's favorite.

close for a year, among other setbacks. But in 2013, the owners of nearby Block Avenue businesses The Little Bread Co., Terra Tots and Hammer & Chisel stepped in to operate the bar. They gave it a update, stripping out drop ceilings and peeling back some of the bric-brac, and introducing a smart, classic cocktail menu. It remains one of the best bars in Arkansas. Bonus points: Former Arkansas Times arts and entertainment editor and professional music nerd Robert Bell often DJs there.

HEAD SOUTH TO THE MILL DISTRICT Restaurateurs Jerrmy Gawthrop and Clayton Suttle have made South Fayetteville a food and drink destination. In 2006, they opened Greenhouse Grille (418 S. School Ave.), a

“new American” restaurant that specializes in innovative takes on comfort food and relies heavily on local ingredients. Naturally, it’s vegetarian and vegan friendly, though you can also get beef tenderloin served with bleu cheese butter. In 2014, Gawthrop and Suttle opened Wood Stone Craft Pizza + Bar just to the south of Greenhouse Grille (557 S. School Ave.). It’s a similar formula to Greenhouse, with lots of local ingredients inventively combined, but on pizza cooked in a wood oven. You’ll also find a happening bar scene, with a wide selection of Arkansas craft beers and craft cocktails; there’s boozy root beer and dreamsicle floats, too. Both restaurants are easily accessible for bikers or walkers on the Frisco Trail, part of the Razorback Regional Greenway.

The former Cosmopolitan Hotel underwent a complete redesign and renovation, which included replacing and updating furniture, fixtures, plumbing and electrical systems, before reopening in 2012 as The Chancellor (70 N. East Ave.), a boutique hotel with 92 rooms and 15 suites, modern decor and an affordable price point (rooms start at $99). It’s downtown near the square and within walking distance of campus and many of our recommendations for food, drink and fun. Or stay at the Inn at the Mill (3906 Johnson Mill Blvd.) just outside of town, in Johnson, near Arvest Park, where the Northwest Arkansas Naturals play. The late Fayetteville architect James Lambeth restored the Johnson Mill, part of which dates back before the Civil War (some of it was burned after the battle of Pea Ridge and reconstructed after the war), in the 1990s and constructed the inn around it. His daughter, Courtney James, and her husband, Miles James, ran it and the restaurant James at the Mill. The Jameses sold the property earlier this year and the new owners plan to turn the restaurant into additional space for lodging. In the meantime, what’s there has been recently renovated.

Day 2: GRAB BREAKFAST OR BRUNCH OR TOAST AT ARSAGA’S Cary and Cindy Arsaga opened the first location of Arsaga Coffee

Co. in 1992. Since then, the Arsaga family has become near synonymous with coffee in Fayetteville, adding new locations and its own warehouse roastery. In 2012, they transformed a long dilapidated freight train building into what became Arsaga’s at the Depot (548 W. Dickson St.), an all-day restaurant that specializes in crepes, but also does sandwiches, salads, loaded fries and big breakfast plates. It’s got a big outdoor porch that overlooks the Frisco Trail. In 2016, the family opened Arsaga’s Church & Center (200 W. Center), nicknamed “Toast,” because the shop only sells coffee and other drinks and loaded thick-cut toasts — like the Boss Hog (smoked pork, pimento cheese, pickled carrot, parsley and mojo verde on multigrain bread) or the Toast Shop Crunch (buttered and sugared sourdough topped with sweet maple cream and fresh fruit).

ART AND ARCHITECTURE The stomping grounds of E. Fay Jones and Edward Durrell Stone ought to have some architecture to look at, right? Stone designed the Fine Arts Center building on the UA campus, the Sigma Nu house and other buildings. Jones, the famed creator of Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs, who taught at the UA, which named its architecture school for him, designed many of the fabulous mid-century homes you see tucked into Fayetteville’s hills. In fact, Fayetteville is lousy with architectural firms and exciting 21st century designs by the DeMx, Marlon Blackwell, David McKee firms and others.

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BRIAN CHILSON

OCTOBER 21-29 (2 WEEKENDS!) WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GOOD BURGER? PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS Prospect Sports Skinny J’s Bar & Grill Stickyz Purple Cow The Box Rev Room

FOR VINYL LOVERS: Block Street Records, for a technology that's back in fashion.

♥

Arkansas

Visit Siloam Springs for a unique experience of cozy smalltown charm, creative events, outdoor activities, landmarks, entertainment and culture. Feel at home in our friendly town less than an hour west of Fayetteville on the state line.

Why Siloam? The Locals Know. SiloamSprings.com/Tourism 20

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ARKANSAS TIMES

If it’s old you’re into, Fayetteville has that in spades, too: In 1853, a century before Jones was bringing his version of Prairie-style works to town, Col. Tebbets built his place at 118 E. Dickson St. It’s now the home of the Washington County Historical Society. Even earlier, in 1845, Judge David Walker built a home at 207 Center St.; it’s one of the few properties, like the Col. Tebbets house, to survive the Civil War; now called the Walker-Stone House, it hosts exhibits of fine art. The oldest standing building in Fayetteville is the Ridge House, a portion of which dates to 1830. Like Fort Smith, Fayetteville has joined the mural movement, with the Green Candy public art project. Check out “Owl” on the east side of the former Mountain Inn building; it’s a three-story work by Puerto Rican artist Alexis Diaz. There’s a timely eclipse mural by Argentinian street artist Marina Zumi on the west side of Hog Haus Brewing Co. And Fayetteville artist Jason Jones is the creator of the gas-masked rabbit at 545 W. Center St. After you’ve seen what’s outside, go indoors to see what’s on the walls at the Walton Arts Center’s Joy Pratt Markham Gallery. Before the renovation of the UA Fine Arts Center — part of the $120 million, Walton-family-supported School of Art that will be built during the next five years — see what’s up in the gallery there. Ride your bike there; you’ll never find a place to park.

TOO MUCH CULTURE FOR YOU? If you like your fun with a big helping of nostalgia, the Arkadia Retrocade (1478 N. College Ave.) is the place to get your fix on Asteroids, Galaga, Donkey Kong and other classic arcade games for one low entry fee.

REFRESH IN STYLE … OR WASTE THE AFTERNOON AND EVENING AT ADULT PLAYLAND The restored Carnall Hall, the turn-of-the-century women’s dorm that has been transformed into luxe lodging, has a terrific dark and cozy bar called the Lambeth Lounge. It’s got that swank, intellectual Algonquin Round Table feel. And if you pull a Dorothy Parker and have one too many, no matter: Ella’s Restaurant is in Carnall Hall, too, and it’s a white-tablecloth, crab cakes and tenderloin kind of place. On the other hand, JJ’s Beer Garden & Brewing Co. (3615 N. Steel Blvd.), owned by JJ’s Grill restaurateur Jody Thornton, is a 12,000-square-foot brewpub that has it all: beer brewed on location, a huge menu of pub grub and an outdoor barbecue food truck, and a massive outdoor patio and play area with a 16-by-19-foot TV, shuffleboard, cornhole, ping pong, bocce ball, sand volleyball and even a wading pool. You can imagine that things get a little crazy here on game days.

A Dog’s World Pet Resort Boarding, Grooming, Daycare

cott Smith is nationally known for his breeding, showing and grooming of standard and toy poodles, most notably a Westminster winner Champion Ted-El Halo Jet Setter. He has also groomed many other standard and toy poodles to their championships. His standard poodle bloodlines go into many different countries, including England, Australia, Norway and many more. Scott started his grooming career at the age of 17 under premier groomer Gene Flint and went on to be an apprentice under Robert N. Peeples, 1991 American Kennel Club Handler of the Year. Through his many years of showing dogs, he has worked with many handlers and groomers in the United States. He credits his mentors Dr. Hartford Hamilton, formerly of Pleasant Valley Vet Clinic, and his wife Kadelia Hamilton, a legendary poodle breeder, in helping him craft his skills and knowledge of dogs. At a young age, Scott was also exposed to breeding and showing German Shepherds from his parents. He brings nearly four decades of experience to A Dog’s World. A Dog’s World was designed from previous kennels he has worked at and toured in the United States.

Through the innovative design, A Dog’s World is located on ten landscaped gated acres providing playgrounds for all breeds and sizes of dogs. It is a climate-controlled facility with each suite having indoor and outdoor access. Scott also lives on the premises so dogs are attended to more than 8-5 and dogs can be assured of getting medicines or injections at the correct time. Scott strives to have the most modern grooming equipment available. He enjoys teaching younger groomers what he has brought from his many years’ experience. Todd Tieran also helps manage. Todd brings his 13 years’ experience working for Dr. Hartford Hamilton to A Dog’s World. A Dog’s World is an efficient, experienced and dedicated pet resort that specializes in boarding and grooming. A Dog’s World hopes you will give them an opportunity to take loving and trusting care of your beloved four-legged family member.

4120 Springhill Rd., Bryant, AR 72019 • 501-847-2639 • www.adogsworld.net A Dog’s World - Bryant

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

48 HOURS

r e v i R o l Buffa ON THE

ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

AKA GOD'S COUNTRY.

GET LOST: And find Arkansas's most beloved trail, the Lost Valley Trail, just 2.2 miles round-trip.

he strongest argument for Arkansas’s motto, “The Natural State,” the Buffalo River starts near the highest point of the Boston Mountains in Newton County and winds its way easterly for 150 miles until it runs into the White River, in Baxter County. The whole stretch is spectacular — it wasn’t the first to be designated a National River for no reason — but the upper portion and the surrounding parkland is the most stunning. Along with the river, Ponca, Jasper and Parthenon are destinations on this itinerary.

STAY IN THE STEEL CREEK VALLEY Camp just yards away from the Buffalo River as it cuts its way through towering bluffs in the National Park Service’s Steel Creek Campground northeast of Ponca. (off state Highway 74). There’s drinking water and flush toilets. Or, if you require a few more amenities, stay in the Foggy Hollow

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ARKANSAS TIMES

Cabin, near Low Gap, which has two bedrooms and two more queen-sized convertible beds in a living room and loft. Big kitchen, TV and a hot tub that overlooks the Steel Creek Valley, too. Or, if you’re bringing along the grandparents, cousins and in-laws, stay in the “luxury cabin” at Cedar Crest Lodge in Ponca (off state Highway 43), which sleeps 20 and has a massive multilevel back deck that connects to a bridge over Adds Creek, a tributary of the Buffalo; the bridge leads to a stone pavilion that sits alongside the creek and has two outdoor fireplaces. Or, if you really want a one-of-a-kind experience and have lots of dough to blow, stay at Beckham Creek Cave, a luxury lodge built into a cave outside of Parthenon. Built by the founder of Celestial Seasonings as a doomsday getaway, the lodge was recently given a sleek renovation by new investors. Now there’s a 75-inch TV hanging near some stalactites, showerheads poking through the stone and a massive gourmet kitchen replete with

double convection ovens. It will have you feeling like a Bond villain (there’s a helicopter pad outside for your speedy getaway). It can sleep four couples in four bedrooms with four bathrooms. Everyone will have to be willing to live high: Rates range from $1,200 to $1,600 per night. There are dozens of other cabins and lodges for rent throughout the area; most require a two-day commitment and need to be booked well in advance during the spring, summer and fall.

FLOAT Some of the most scenic paddling in mid-America is in this stretch, but it’s typically only passable from March until early June. There are canoe outfitters aplenty in Ponca and Jasper and nearby. Ponca to Kyle’s Landing is about 10 miles long and takes 4-6 hours to complete. The stretch includes Big Bluff and Hemmed-In Hollow, the tallest bluff face and

SEE THE ELK IN BOXLEY VALLEY

HIKE THE LOST VALLEY TRAIL After or before you see the elk, you’re obligated to hike the Lost Valley Trail. It deservedly has the reputation as Arkansas’s best hiking trail. It’s short and manageable with kids or folks with bad knees, just 2.2 miles round-trip, on a mostly flat and dreamy tree-canopy-covered path. It culminates with Eden Falls and Cobb Cave, which mildly adventurous sorts can explore.

LUNCH AT THE CLIFF HOUSE INN Take the scenic drive down from Jasper and take a meal in the restaurant with the best view in Arkansas. The Cliff House Inn, on state Highway 7, has been a North Arkansas institution since 1967. It sits on the edge of a cliff that overlooks Arkansas’s Grand Canyon, serves up

HIKE WHITAKER POINT TRAIL Another easy and popular trail south of Ponca (off state Highway 21), Whitaker Point runs roundtrip about 3 miles. Nervous parents may want to think twice about taking children who are inclined to go off-path. There are two routes available: one through the woods and one along a bluff-line, but both lead to Hawksbill Crag, a high rock outcropping that looks out to the majesty of Buffalo River country below.

DINNER AT LOW GAP CAFE After attending the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Nick Bottini did the rounds at restaurants in big cities all over the country (most memorable experience, he says, was catering Liberace’s 1,800-person birthday party in Lake Tahoe). Then he and his wife, Marie, fell in love with Buffalo River country. They opened Low Gap Cafe in 2012 along state Highway 74. It doesn’t look like much on the outside, but inside, Bottini’s known for his pastas (he’s Italian) and his prime rib, served Friday and Saturday nights only. There’s also ahi tuna, red snapper, salmon and pan-seared duck; there are burgers and such for picky eaters, too. Check lowgapcafe.com; like most Buffalo River businesses, the cafe keeps different hours in the summer and winter.

MATTHEW MARTIN

The Eastern Elk, native to Arkansas, went extinct in the late 19th century. An effort by the U.S. Forest Service to introduce Rocky Mountain Elk into Franklin County in 1933 was shortlived; the herd only persisted until the mid-1950s. The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission has been more successful. It released 112 Western Elk in Newton County in the early 1980s; that herd is now estimated to number 450-500 and elk have been spotted in 14 Arkansas counties. But Newton County remains ground zero. Stop by the Ponca Elk Education Center, operated by the AGFC, to get educated and brochured. Then head south on state Highway 43 in the Boxley Valley, possibly the prettiest part of all of Arkansas. There, especially if you go from daybreak to around 8 a.m. or 5 p.m. until nightfall, you’re likely to see some big antlers. June 1 is the peak of calving season; the annual elk rut begins in mid-September and extends into November. That’s when you’ll hear bugling and see antlers colliding.

burgers and fried fish and specializes in Company’s Comin’ Pie, a mix of pecans, whipped cream and pineapple. The restaurant is only open March 15 through Nov. 19. It’s a good breakfast and dinner option, too.

BIRAN CHILSON

waterfall between the Rockies and Appalachians. Farther downriver, Steel Creek to Kyle’s Landing and Pruitt to Hasty are quicker trips that are sometimes still doable when the water is too low for Ponca to Kyle’s Landing.

BREAKFAST AT OZARK CAFE Get some chocolate chip pancakes or biscuits and gravy or biscuits and chocolate gravy at the Ozark Cafe, a Newton County staple, situated on the square in Jasper since around 1909. Try ’em for lunch and dinner, too, for hand-cut french fries, a chocolate shake and the Excaliburger, a halfpound burger stuffed between two grilled cheese sandwiches. The cafe is open daily and hosts live music every Saturday night.

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

24 HOURS OR MORE

r e v i R o Buffal MORE BEAUTY DOWNSTREAM.

THE INDIAN ROCKHOUSE: The trail to this prehistoric peoples' shelter starts at the Buffalo Point trailhead.

he upper part of the Buffalo River may be the most scenic stretch of the national park, but it’s all relative. The middle and lower sections are spectacular compared to just about anywhere else in Arkansas and, for anyone outside of North Arkansas, they’re closer. From Little Rock, you can be splashing in the river at Tyler Bend in just about two hours.

Yellville in the Buffalo Point Park area. There you’ll have your pick of rustic cabins. Or check out the range of cabins for rent from Buffalo Camping & Canoeing, which operates out of the Gilbert General Store. Most are mere yards from the river.

Pitch a tent in the Tyler Bend Campground, operated by the National Park Service 11 miles northwest of Marshall, off U.S. Highway 65. It’s open year-round with flush toilets and even a shower with hot water. Great hiking nearby, too. Or take state Highway 27 north in Marshall to state Highway 14 to the Buffalo Point Campground, the largest campground on the Buffalo National River. It puts you a short walk from one of the best swimming holes on the Buffalo and near to the Indian Rockhouse Trail. But take note, there’s no water or electricity during the off-season, from Nov. 15 to March 15. If you require more amenities, try Buffalo River Cabins, at 99 state Highway 268 E, south of

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

BRIAN CHILSON

ROUGH IT … OR NOT

WHEN IT'S TIME FOR PIE: Or a plate lunch, or burgers, try Ferguson's.

LOAD UP ON SMOKED MEATS AND CINNAMON ROLLS If you’re setting out in the morning on your excursion from Central Arkansas, you’ll hit the Buffalo at just about the time to start

thinking about lunch. Bring an ice chest, because you’ll want to stop at Coursey’s Smoked Meats, off Highway 65 just up the hill from where the highway passes over the Buffalo. It’s been smoking meats since 1945. Load up on smoked deli meat, cheese and thick-cut bacon, or if you just need lunch for a hike or a float, get a deli sandwich to go. Just across the highway from Coursey’s is Ferguson’s Country Store and Restaurant, where you can get a plate lunch, burgers, pie and cinnamon rolls as big as your head. Great spot for breakfast, too. Another stop, farther down south on Highway 65, just south of Leslie: Serenity Farm Bread, where you can pick up hand-shaped sourdough loaves cooked in a wood-fired brick oven along with all sorts of pastry delights.

CANOE OR KAYAK Unlike the upper stretch of the river, the middle and lower parts can be floated just about any time of the year. Tyler Bend to Gilbert (4.4 miles) or Grinders Ferry to Gilbert (4 miles) are probably your best bets. There are several places to rent boats along Highway 65, including Buffalo River Outfitters and Silver Hill Float Service, or head down to Gil-

ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

IN THE MIDDLE AND LOWER

bert to Buffalo Camping & Canoeing. If you haven’t yet, browse around the Gilbert General Store, established in 1901, and park your car where you’ll be taking out and avoid two shuttle rides.

GET IN THE WOODS

BRIAN CHILSON

For a stunning view, hike the Riverview Trail from the Tyler Bend Visitor Center in St. Joe to the bluffs that overlook the Buffalo. The trail also affords a tour of an early 20th century cabin at the top of the hill. Round-trip, it’s about 3 miles. More seasoned hikers, keep going past the homestead on the Buffalo River Trail, which runs the entire stretch of the river. From Tyler Bend to Gilbert is 5.5 miles, a 4-5 hour hike. The popular Indian Rockhouse Trail starts at the Buffalo Point Trailhead. It’s about 3 miles round-trip, strenuous (according to the National Park Service) and passes by a sinkhole, a small waterfall and a bluff that once sheltered prehistoric Native Americans. Farther downriver, south of Yellville just off Highway 14, the ghost town of Rush is worth a look. The mining town was founded in the mid1880s by prospectors looking for silver. They never found any, but they did find zinc, including a 13,000-pound zinc nugget nicknamed “Jumbo.” The short halfhour Morning Star Loop will take you by the remaining structures and mines, or a longer loop will take you beyond the town and past a spring and Rush Creek.

DINNER AT A DAIRY BAR If you didn’t plan for dinner at the campground or cabin, head to Marshall for dinner at the Daisy Queen, which has been serving up burgers and shakes since 1966. It’s on Highway 65 and worthy of a stop even if it’s not mealtime for a fresh fried pie or a cone of softserve ice cream.

DRIVE-IN FOR A MOVIE The Kenda Drive-In, nearby on Highway 65, is one of only three remaining drive-in movie theaters in the state, and the only one to stay open year-round. From roughly the end of September to the end of March, it operates on a winter schedule and shows films only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Go to kendadrivein. com to see what’s playing.

AN EVENING WITH

GARRISON

KEILLOR Just Passing Through

November 7 · 7:00 pm

robinson PERFORMANCE HALL

Robinson Performance Hall Box Office

501-244-8800

www. Ticketmaster.com

30 minutes for a cuppa Rock-N-Java Ozarks

APRÈS HIKE: A fried pie at the Daisy Queen will hit the spot.

Just past Marshall, the scenery explodes. The road begins to wind more narrowly and Ozark Mountain calendar panoramas spring up on either side of your car. If you're not planning on stopping for coffee at the Serenity Bakery in Leslie — a noteworthy bakery six miles north the road — keep an eye out for RockN-Java, a tiny Highway 65 N coffee shop with quirky furniture (look for the table shaped like a giant matchbox), an upbeat vibe and postcardworthy periphery.

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LAKE OUACHITA STATE PARK

On any road trip, there’s a short list of things to see and do. These are the ones on our list – the things you can only see and do in Arkansas. Most locals will say they know and love these places and will direct their friends and family from out of town to them. But, be honest, how many of these “Arkansas Originals” can you actually check off of your bucket list? (We’re missing a few, too.) If you haven’t been there, done that, now is the time to do it. It’s perfect road tripping weather, and these aren’t just places that are close to home: This is your home. Get out there, and get to know every corner of it.

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UPPER DELTA Legendary sounds and spirit Two national scenic byways cut across this part of the state – the Great River Road and Crowley’s Ridge Parkway, which runs along an unusual geological formation, one of only two like it in the world. Crowley’s Ridge State Park is located here on the only elevation in the otherwise flat Delta lowlands. On this land, Dyess Colony was established for working farm families, one of those being the Cash family. The Historic Dyess Colony: Johnny Cash Boyhood Home offers tours of the home, restored to what it would’ve looked like when the Man in Black was just a boy. Another historic stop in this area is the Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum with a tour of the barn studio where Ernest Hemingway wrote portions of “A Farewell to Arms” at his wife Pauline’s family home.

BIG RIVER CROSSING, WEST MEMPHIS JOHNNY CASH BOYHOOD HOME, DYESS

POWHATAN STATE PARK

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HEMINGWAY-PFEIFFER MUSEUM, PIGGOTT

LOWER DELTA

ARKANSAS ENTERTAINERS HALL OF FAME, PINE BLUFF

The bayou and the blues To really know this place is to experience the sounds – the real soul of it – at Delta Cultural Center in Helena-West Helena where the nation’s longest-running daily blues radio show, “King Biscuit Time,” hosted by Blues Hall of Famer “Sunshine” Sonny Payne, is broadcast every weekday a�ernoon. HelenaWest Helena is also home to the King Biscuit Blues Festival held annually in October. Along with the music that runs through the heart of this region, the world’s longest bayou, Bayou Bartholomew, travels for more than 350 miles through the Delta and is one of the most diverse streams in North America. This part of the state is famous for its ﬁshing and hunting. Delta Resort near McGehee is the place to stay with upscale accommodations and a premier sport clay shooting range. Lake Chicot State Park is located on a 20-mile-long oxbow and one of the most peaceful se�ings for ﬁshing, boating and bird-watching – and a beautiful spot to catch the sunset at the end of a big day in the outdoors. DeView

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CENTRAL Capital city scene Li�le Rock is the place to start with its walkable and bike-friendly downtown. Pop into local shops, restaurants, museums, cra� breweries and a distillery. From the Clinton Presidential Center and Park, continue on to the world headquarters of Heifer International, which works to end hunger and poverty across the globe. If you haven’t toured the ESSE Purse Museum, it’s also downtown on South Main Street and is the only brick-and-mortar purse museum in North America. Li�le Rock Central High School National Historic Site remembers the integration of the Li�le Rock Nine in 1957. On the north side of the Arkansas River is the USS Razorback, a submarine present at the signing of the treaty that ended WWII. Another one-of-a-kind spot in Central Arkansas is the Gann Museum in Benton, the only known structure in the world built from bauxite. Charlo�e’s Eats and Sweets in Keo is famous for its mile-high meringue-topped pies; coconut cream is a local favorite, but every variety is totally worth the drive. Petit Jean State Park near Morrilton is the ﬂagship of the parks system and just a short drive from Li�le Rock. ARGENTA, NORTH LITTLE ROCK

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RIVERFRONT PARK, LITTLE ROCK

IRON MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAIL, ARKADELPHIA

SOUTHWEST A diamond in the Ouachitas

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MURPHY ARTS DISTRICT, EL DORADO

SUPERIOR BATHHOUSE BREWERY, HOT SPRINGS

In the Ouachita Mountains lie many natural wonders – lakes, rivers, crystals, diamonds and hot springs. Come soak in the history and culture of the area on Historic Bathhouse Row in Hot Springs National Park. Here, you can also learn about infamous mobsters at The Gangster Museum of America and famous baseball players on the Hot Springs Baseball Trail. Other special spots in the region include Crater of Diamonds State Park, the world’s only diamond mine open to the public; Mount Ida, Crystal Capital of the World; Garvan Woodland Gardens; and Historic Washington State Park, where you can take a horse-drawn surrey ride through town. Don’t forget to check out all that’s going on in El Dorado’s Murphy Arts District.

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NORTHWEST Arts and outdoors in the Ozarks There’s always a new exhibit or a new way to experience Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, like on a guided or selfguided tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright Bachman-Wilson House or on the Crystal Bridges Trail. Bike rentals are available on the Bentonville Square, home of the Walmart Museum, commemorating Walton’s 5 & 10, Sam Walton’s original store. The Razorback Regional Greenway connects Bentonville, Fayetteville, Rogers and other downtowns. Other unique places in Northwest Arkansas include: Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs, Turpentine Creek near Eureka Springs, the murals of Fort Smith and Mount Magazine State Park atop the state’s highest peak.

CRYSTAL BRIDGES MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART, BENTONVILLE

CORE BREWING COMPANY, SPRINGDALE

DOWNTOWN EUREKA SPRINGS

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BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER

LOCO ROPES, OZARK FOLK CENTER STATE PARK

HARDY

LONGBOW RESORT, PRIM

NORTH CENTRAL Mountain music and culture In this part of the Ozarks, old-time traditions are preserved at The Ozark Folk Center State Park, the only park of its kind, where working artisans demonstrate skills like basket weaving, blacksmithing and quilt making. The park hosts concerts and workshops seasonally. Also in this region is the Li�le Red River, a world-class trout fishing stream; Mammoth Spring, a National Natural Landmark, that pumps more than nine million gallons of water an hour and flows south to form the Spring River; and Blanchard Springs Caverns, an underground wonderland that contains one of the world’s largest flowstones.

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ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

THE SOUND OF MOUNTAIN VIEW: Includes the old-time strains of the autoharp, fiddle and dulcimer.

ountain View, the seat of Stone County, is a small Ozark town — population 2,876 — that holds some of the biggest folk music events in the state and the country. Each year, in April, it hosts the Arkansas Folk Festival, which is attended by tens of thousands, according to estimates. In November, the Bluegrass Festival stretches over a weekend and brings in the crowds. All year long, the Ozark Folk Center hosts musical performances throughout the day; there’s more music on the town square at night. Around any corner you might catch someone fiddling. They might be playing “Tennessee Stud” or “The Battle of New Orleans,” two of the 6,000-plus folk songs written by Mountain View native Jimmy Driftwood. After becoming famous, Driftwood continued to reside, in part, in Mountain View and advocate for it. His love for folk music helped put Mountain View on the map — surprising residents

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

by securing $2.1 million from Congress to established the Folk Center. But if you’re not in the mood for Ozark Mountain music, stay for the mountains and the rivers that run through them. Driftwood wouldn’t mind: He became an environmental activist later in life, helping secure national designations to protect the Buffalo River and Blanchard Springs Caverns.

GRAB SOME BREAKFAST IN TOWN (LIKELY RIGHT BESIDE YOUR BED) In a town like Mountain View, built to accommodate tourists, lodging is available near the center of town. Wildflower Bed and Breakfast, at 100 W. Washington St., and The Inn at Mountain View, 307 W. Washington St., offer great spots for those looking for a bed and breakfast. (Country Oaks Bed and Breakfast is farther out of town at 17221 State Highway 9, but if you’re yearning

for a B&B it fits the bill.) For people who want to be as close to the action as possible, there are the Ozark Folk Center State Park Cabins. If you decide you want to eat out, PJ’s Rainbow Cafe on the square is a classic dinner spot that will acclimate you to the cozy feel of Mountain View. Either way: Don’t rush! You should relax, walk around the square, drink some coffee and enjoy the day.

to buy top quality dulcimers, this is the spot. But, if you’re just someone interested by the whole thing, they’ll be making the instruments and let you watch. The Mountain View Music shop is another local spot where you can buy an instrument, but you also might be inclined to just wander as a neophyte; often they have people playing on the porch.

WANDERING THE SQUARE

FOLK CENTER SHOWS: Shows daily.

MUSIC TIME All right, you’ve spent more than 15 minutes in Mountain View without any music (unless you’re playing folk classics out of your iPhone speaker for all to hear). We should probably remedy that! Head over to the Ozark Folk Center for a show. Each day the center hosts music at 10:15 a.m., 11:15 a.m., 12:15 p.m., 1:45 p.m., 2:45 p.m. and 3:45 p.m. Can’t find a time (somehow) in that a schedule? There are evening concerts, too, at 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. Daytime performances are in the Outdoor Music Pavilion or White Oak Theater and evening shows are in the Large Auditorium on Thursdays through Saturdays. Afterward, right down the hill, you can drive over to the Dulcimer Shoppe. If you’re desperate

If you’ve seen the show and then been to the music shops, you might still have a little bit before lunch, so do some antiquing. The town square is small but somehow has about four antique/resale shops. There is Rainbow Antique Mall, which is a large and sprawling home to many random items (all cheap and interesting, from odd lamps to weird bobbleheads). Beside that is For Mother Earth, home to a great section of used books and tons of tie-dye shirts. There’s also Nancy’s Antiques & Gifts and J & J Antique Stuff and Sanders Town Square Antiques, all around that area. For some reason, Mountain View has a good amount of old stuff worth selling.

LUNCH ON THE RIVER Get in the car and head a bit out of town for Anglers White River Resort, which is along the White River. It will be hard to miss it: Anglers is not only a restaurant but also an RV Park, a gas station, and an outdoor store; signs litter the highway as you approach. The best part about the restaurant is that you can sit outside and look at the river as you eat. If you’re here, nothing to order but catfish.

ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

SPELUNK: Both the easy and harder trails at Blanchard Caverns are spectacular.

BLANCHARD SPRINGS CAVERNS Since you’re a bit out of town now, steer over another 10 minutes farther into the woods to the Blanchard Springs Caverns. It’s a beautiful (and the only nationally protected) cave system, home to glistening rock formations. Do not worry: There are some intense versions of cave exploring offered, but if you’re more squeamish there is also a calm halfmile or so hike that is guided. On the half-mile hike it is hard to feel claustraphobic: The caverns are huge. The more ambitious explorers have to call ahead to book a trip on the Wild Cave Tour of undeveloped parts of the caverns (go to recreation.gov or call 877-444-6777).

DINNER AND DESSERT

Friday and Saturday in the Old School Gym. Usually audience participation is encouraged, so get ready to belt those old gospel tunes you remember from childhood. Then there is Jimmy Driftwood Barn at 19775 state Highway 5 N, which has shows many evenings. (You might be wondering why, if Driftwood created the Folk Center, there is another music venue. In the mid-’70s there was a rift and Driftwood was kicked out of his own creation. So, he and some friends set up a shack to play music. Viola: Jimmy Driftwood Barn.) When the weather’s good, you’ll find folks jamming on the courthouse square.

TIRED OF MUSIC? LET’S DO A MOVIE The Stone Drive-In Theater plays movies when it gets dark. I mean this literally: Its Facebook page tells customers, “Movie starts at dark!” You pull in and pay, tune your radio to the correct frequency and enjoy the classic drive-in experience. $5 will get anyone in over the age of 12 and $2 for kids age 6 to 11. If it’s raining? The movie still plays. So, drive on over.

SPEND THE NIGHT OR DRIVE HOME

Either grab some shut-eye in the B&B Unless the woods were so enticing or book it back to Little Rock, talking you decided to stay and become a hunter- all the way about what a joy Mountain gatherer, you’ll be hungry for someone View was. else’s cooking again. So head back to town to Kin Folks BBQ. It’s got cheap and great eats. When you bite in, though, don’t explain your love with any cursing: DETOUR! multiple printed out signs say that no profanity is allowed. (Also, to be frank, BACK TO THE WOODS there are some signs about being against political correctness that are not the best. It was wonderful, deep down in Maybe order to go and eat outside? The those caverns. It made you long for porch is nice.) The BBQ plate is simple, peace and quiet and a Twitter-less with pork and two sides for around $7. world. Go deeper into the Ozark The ribs are a bit more expensive, in the National Forest! Head over to Mill $12 to $15 range, but worth it. Either way: Creek, sprung from the springs within Save room! It’s got delicious ice cream — Blanchard Springs Caverns, and spend you can even get it on the top of a slice some time at the lake it creates, Mirof pie or in a milkshake. The experience ror Lake, and the manmade Mirror Waterfall. You know what? You’re still will leave you full, very full. too close to other people (there are usually some folks hanging around). ANOTHER SHOW? Maybe head to the Gunner Pool RecYes! You need more music. Perhaps reation Area — a solid camping spot you’re going to head back to the Ozark where you can stay for only $7 or so. Folk Center for one of the evening per- You can go swimming here or just sit formances, but there are others options, around and read a book. Why ever go too. Check out a great website, mountain- back? We could live here and make it, view-music-scene.com, for local options. couldn’t we? We could really survive There is the Gospel Opry, 208 School out in these woods and we’d be happy? Ave., which has shows every Thursday, Why not? Let’s do it!

MICHEL LEIDERMANN Moderator

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320W.7T HS T .-DOWNT OWNL I T T L EROCK f ol l ow usons oci al medi a@s t udi ot heat r el r arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

s g n i r p S Eureka THE COOLEST LITTLE TOWN IN ARKANSAS.

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

CATCH SOME BRUNCH Eureka Springs is definitely the place to slow down and sit a spell, and if you aren’t enough of a morning person to rise and shine early enough for a proper breakfast, Oscar’s Cafe, at 17 White St., is perfect for a leisurely not-quite-breakfast, with a front porch that’s perfect for sipping coffee and a nice breakfast and lunch menu.

Day 1 SETTLE IN

Founded in 1879, in the days when spring waters with purported healing properties were the better-than-nothing treatment for most medical ailments, Eureka Springs became a resort boomtown. Around 4,000 people eventually lived there, with the moneyed folks building magnificent hotels, mansions and Victorian cottages that still cling like orchids to the rocky slopes of the valley where Eureka Springs sits.

ing you can stand, evoking medieval castles in the air, grass-covered cabins with round doors and windows and cavern-inspired lodgings of rustic stone.

BRIAN CHILSOIN

48 HOURS

ith modern medicine quickly denouncing the idea of healing waters as quackery, the town’s fortunes faded. That actually turned out to be a good thing, however, as the seclusion of sleepy Eureka for much of the 20th century largely trapped its unique architecture and character in amber. In recent decades, Eureka has reinvented itself as one of the most liberal and welcoming cities in Arkansas, a very blue speck in deep red Carroll County. For over 10 years, the city has stood at the vanguard of LGBT rights, hosting twice-yearly “Diversity Weekends,” establishing a domestic partnership registry in 2007 that allowed same-sex couples to officially record their unions, recording the state’s first legal same-sex marriage at their tiny courthouse in May 2014 and voting overwhelmingly in 2015 to pass an ordinance that protects LGBT residents and visitors from discrimination. Far beyond its Christianthemed tourist trap past, Eureka is a true destination now, with romantic lodging, great shopping, fine dining and events most every weekend. There’s plenty to do and see.

Eureka Springs is known for its unique and historic lodging, making it the perfect spot for a romantic getaway. You can’t go wrong with the Crescent Hotel, the elegant, circa1886 showplace perched on a mountain above the city. Also lovely, and right in the middle of the city's historic downtown, is the Crescent’s sister hotel, the Basin Park Hotel at 12 Spring St., which features balcony dining, shopping just steps from the door, and relaxation at Basin Spring next door. For more adventurous lodging, try the luxurious Treehouse Cottages, headquartered at 165 W. Van Buren St. Situated at two locations in Eureka, the eight Treehouse Cottages feature cabins built 22 to 26 feet off the ground, with each including amenities like whirlpool tubs and kitchenettes. For a REALLY unique overnight, how about staying in a facsimile of a hobbit house based on those in the “Lord of the Rings” books and film series, or cottages that evoke the feel of being in the world of Harry Potter? Eureka Springs Treehouses, Castles and Hobbit Caves (online at estreehouses. com) feature all the whimsical lodg-

IN DOWNTOWN EUREKA: The iconic building at Spring and Center streets.

SHOP, SHOP, SHOP While Eureka Springs has long been known for its antique shops, the selection of chic boutiques has definitely taken an upswing in recent years. The first stop if you’re in town for a romantic getaway has to be The Fine Art of Romance at 60 Spring St., a lingerie and more store that features one of the most elegant selections of perfumes,adult items and boudoir fashions in the state, plus a nice selection of erotic art and books. If you’re on the prowl for quirky antiques and local art, try Mitchell’s Folly, an antique store and art gallery at 130 Spring St. that features a truly eclectic and even eccentric variety of vintage items and fine art.

GET SOME LUNCH All that walking up and down the steep streets of Arkansas’s “Little Switzerland” should mean you’re ready for lunch. The fairly new Grotto, at 10 Center St., partially in a natural cave in the side of a mountain, has developed

CONTINUED ON PAGE 38

Little Rock’s dining and craft food and beverage scene is on the rise. Whether enjoying a romantic dinner for two, using our Locally Labeled Passport program to sample our city’s ever-expanding offerings of ales, wines and spirits or savoring any of the amazing products our artisanal food producers are making, there’s never been a better time to enjoy great food and drink in Little Rock.

IN GREATER LITTLE ROCK

Tour Lost Forty Brewery > To see more, visit Littlerock.com

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

BRIAN CHILSOIN

a devoted following among locals with its menu of wood-fired grilled items and its spelunker ambiance. It’s open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch (and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. for dinner). If diner food is your thing, try the venerable Sparky’s Roadhouse Cafe, at 147 E. Van Buren St., which features a big menu of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, salads and other items, with over 100 beers available to wash them down.

if you love the toasty feel of a pair of warm socks (and some uber-specific shopping), stop by the For Bare Feet store at 35 Spring St., which features thousands of pairs of socks in all styles and colors, including specialty socks for sports fans and designs taken from popular culture.

VISIT FAY'S LITTLE CHAPEL IN THE WOODS

There’s no Starbucks in Eureka Springs (thank God), but you can get a java jolt or an afternoon drink at Brews at 2 Pine St. It has a nice menu of coffee drinks, and — as the name suggests — does double brew duty with a good selection of Arkansas-made craft beers. There’s a nice selection of local art, too. Brews is open 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., so early or late, you can find the beverage that best suits your mood.

While in Eureka, both praying types and architecture lovers (we’re not saying those two can’t overlap) are honor bound to genuflect at architect Fay Jones’ magnificent Thorncrown Chapel, a lithe, light-strewn construction of angled wooden beams, glass and stone situated on state Highway 62 about two miles out of town. Considered one of the top 10 American architectural masterpieces of the 20th century by the American Institute of Architects, the chapel is the crown jewel of Jones’ storied career.

GET CLOSER TO YOUR SPIRITUAL SIDE

VISIT LAKE LEATHERWOOD

GRAB SOME COFFEE (OR AN AFTERNOON BEER)

No trip to Eureka is complete without a stop at the mammoth Christ of the Ozarks, 937 Passion Play Road, which consists of a vaguely boxy, seven-story concrete Jesus forever waiting for Godzilla to give him that promised hug. How many times has Big JC’s weird pose been emulated by bored vacationers for a funny photo? Uncountable, but it’s definitely high on the roadside kitsch meter. For a more refined walk on the God side, visit the lovely St. Elizabeth of Hungary Catholic Church, 30 Crescent Drive, just below the Crescent Hotel. Completed in 1909, the lovely stone church has the distinction of appearing in “Ripley's Believe It or Not” because, thanks to the hilly terrain of Eureka, the entrance to the church grounds is through the bell tower. The grounds are open and lovely day or night, but we prefer the frisson that a nighttime stroll gives. If you’d rather go more secular with your ponderings about the nature of the universe, you can always head for the famous Inspiration Point at 16498 State Highway 62 W, featuring commanding, beautiful views of the countryside.

DINNER BELL IS RINGING If you’ve got time to wait a bit, you should try to get a table at local favorite Ermilio's at 26 White St. Situated in a 38

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

BIKERS LURED THERE: The Cathouse Lounge at the Pied Piper Pub and Inn.

former home near the Crescent Hotel, the Italian restaurant is easily the most popular in the city, but operates solely on a first-come, first-served basis, with no reservations. Once on the waiting list, though, you’ll have plenty of time to rub elbows with other diners in the cozy upstairs bar or on the front porch. If you’re looking for a romantic dinner, try Le Stick Nouveau, a small French restaurant below the New Orleans Hotel at 63 Spring St. Featuring such signature items as duck a l’Orange and escargot, it’s been getting rave reviews and fills up quickly, so reservations are encouraged.

GET YOUR SCOOBY DOO ON With the craze for all things paranormal, Eureka Springs is a natural for looking for things that go bump in the night. Buttressed by a visit from the cable reality show “Ghost Hunters” some years back, the Crescent Hotel does a booming business with its ghostthemed tours of the building. Visitors will hear of the various alleged ghost sightings in the basement, which once served as a morgue when the hotel was used as a hospital, and “Michael,” supposedly the ghost of an Irish worker

who fell to his death while the hotel was being built in the 1880s. If that’s not enough spooks for you for one night, The Basin Park Hotel also offers ghost tours.

Day 2 TUCK IN AGAIN Another local favorite, Mud Street Cafe at 22 S. Main St., features great coffee and a big slate of breakfast foods, including pancakes, hash browns, croissants, wraps, muffins, scones, bagels and more, plus omelets in seven varieties. For something a little more exotic, try The Oasis at 37 Spring St., which bills its cuisine as ”Ark-Mex,” with Mexican-inspired huevos for breakfast.

MORE SHOPPING! If you’re looking to get in touch with your inner kid, stroll on in to Tee Rex Toys at 34 Spring St. A Willy Wonkaesque shop full of unique T-shirts, games, books, children’s toys, vintage items and more, it’s the fruit of the wonderful brain of Jayme Brandt, a local artist and designer who looks at the world with a poet’s eye. Also,

The biggest city park in Arkansas, Lake Leatherwood City Park, at 1303 County Road 204 north of town, is a 1,610-acre oasis in the mountains, built around the shining 86-acre Lake Leatherwood, created by the dam the WPA built on West Leatherwood Creek in the early 1940s. With over 25 acres of trails and plentiful birds and wildlife, the park is the perfect place for a long stroll, a hike, a bike ride, fishing or canoeing.

DINNERTIME! Now that you’ve walked off all those calories from lunch and dinner, you’re ready to chow down on some real Neanderthal fare. Take a drive out to Gaskin’s Cabin Steakhouse, at 2883 state Highway 23 N, about three miles out of town. Started by a former bear hunter and the perfect mix of rustic and refined, Gaskin’s is a carnivore’s delight, with chops, prime rib and a variety of aged, hand-cut steaks, plus a great wine list. If a walk on the wild side is more your speed, head to the Cathouse Lounge at the Piped Piper Pub and Inn, 82 Armstrong St. Popular with the bikers who make their way to Eureka in droves these days, the Cathouse has a menu full of hearty fare to fill you up after a long day on your hog: the perfect pairing for cold beer and good times.

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very day Staci Croom-Raley gets the chance to empower parents to help their children. “I love that, as a mom, my job is to support and empower other parents to be their child’s first great teacher,” says Croom-Raley, executive director of HIPPY - Home Instruction for Parents of Preschool Youngsters. Leading HIPPY USA is something of a dream job for Croom-Raley, but it wasn’t her original life goal. When she was 25 she was working as an ombudsman for what is now Creighton University Medical Center in Omaha, Neb. “I loved advocating for others and helping to resolve conflicts, and when I led the hospital from #77 to #1—everything started moving way too fast,” she says. “I started working for Boys Town and lived everywhere from New York to California and few places in between. I decided on a career change and moved home to go to law school.” She intended to finish at the William H. Bowen School of Law and then move back to the East Coast to work, but on the day she passed the bar she also met her future husband, Brian. That changed everything. She went to work in state government and then moved into the nonprofit arena and private practice. “But, something was missing. I wanted more. I just didn’t know what‘more’I wanted. I received a call about the search for a new executive director at HIPPY, and I was immediately intrigued,”she says.“I went after the opportunity like nothing I’d pursued before. I talked with HIPPY families, researched everything I could find, and I even wrote my name on a big piece of paper with the title‘Executive Director, HIPPY USA’on it and posted on my wall. I read it aloud every time I looked at it, and on my birthday I got the call that changed my life.” She spends her days contracting and working on advocacy efforts for the organization, and she takes every opportunity to share stories about how HIPPY changes lives. “We know that a lack of quality preschool

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access leads to inequity in school readiness that can start as early as 3 years old. That is unacceptable. Through HIPPY, I’m working to change that outcome, and it can’t happen fast enough. Every child deserves our speed and due diligence to solve this problem.” Croom-Raley strives to make use of the unique background, talents and perspective she brings to her field. “My experience in the world as a woman and a woman of color affords me the ability to look at situations through a different set of lenses than someone else,” she says.”We have unique experiences in this life that, hopefully, shape us into more mature and wiser people.” She recommends that women who want to lead walk boldly toward opportunities, don’t expect to have all the answers, seek opportunities to invest in themselves, and be selective about the people with whom they surround themselves. “It’s not required that they look like you or share all of your views,” she says. “They only need to be people you can learn from and trust. The people that are truly in your corner won’t have a problem being held to that standard, and they should hold you to the same standard.”

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On the way to somewhere else

5 HOURS

IN QUAINT HARDY

storefronts on Main Street over the years, but the buildings that house them are relics, and the street is on the National Register of Historic Places. Stroll

Should you find yourself with extra time on the road between St. Louis and Central Arkansas, consider a brief detour to the quirky downtown district of Hardy and the nearby Mammoth Spring. As it’s in North Arkansas, but nowhere near the bustling northwest corner or easterly Jonesboro, it’s a pocket of the state that often goes unexplored.

START WITH A MEAL AT THE CORNER BOOTH CAFE

around, let the tiny signs — some visible only to the pedestrian — guide you to Miller’s Leather Shop, the Old Time Candy Shoppe, the Ozark Classic

Crafts Mall, Jade’s clothing boutique, Memories

on Main St. antiques, the Main Street Flea

Market and even a Wiccan supply shop called The

Silver Dragon, nee Goths R Us.

MAMMOTH SPRING STATE PARK AND THE SPRING RIVER

BRIAN CHILSON

It’s just a 20-minute drive on U.S. Highway 63 to

BARBECUE MAN: Bob Halsell is the third generation of his family to own The Dixie Pig.

2 HOURS

This cozy little diner at 106 W. Main St. is only

the Missouri-Arkansas border, where you can hear

open until 2 p.m., so be sure to grab a seat before

the roar of the seventh-largest natural spring in the

you get carried away with the shops in downtown

world, flowing at an average rate of 9.78 million

Hardy. Seated in the wooden-backed booths, you’ll

gallons per hour with a constant water temperature

find yourself leaning sideways to take in the full

of 58 degrees Fahrenheit. The thunderous sound

effect of the tiny place’s ceiling decor: glittery gold

of Mammoth Spring’s output, tumbling across a

crown molding, faux Tiffany antique light fixtures,

198-foot limestone dam, is evidence of its force,

model planes, dolls, figurines, china, a birdcage.

and a sidewalk above the water line allows you to

The walls are equally busy, with old black-and-white

stroll right into the adjacent hydroelectric plant

photos, a Wild West “Wanted” sign, a Betty Boop

control tower, which supplied power to the area

print and an ad for the Titanic. Outside, a sign

until 1972. Mammoth Spring feeds the Spring River,

reads “Lunch Special: $5.50.” The server will know

a destination for paddlers and trout fishermen, if

everyone’s name and the pinto beans are the real

you want to make more than a day of it. The Many

slow-cooked deal. It also serves breakfast all day:

IN BARBECUE-RICH BLYTHEVILLE Like several cities in Arkansas, Blytheville is one of those border towns that many Arkansans only visit when they’re on their way to somewhere else. Pushed hard up against the Missouri Bootheel, Blytheville isn’t quite a bustling metropolis,

Islands campground will also rent you a canoe.

generous fluffy omelets, pancake stacks and ham ’n’ egg platters.

TAKE A STROLL DOWN THE OLD HARDY TOWN STRIP

but it’s not a hole in the wall, either, since it’s home to Nucor Steel. Lots of famous people come from Blytheville, like Little Rock City Director Kathy Webb and R&B singer/sax player

“Old Town Hardy” is a fitting name, if not entirely accurate. There have been many decidedly modern

Junior Walker. That Bookstore in Blytheville has sadly closed, but there are still things to see and places to eat before you jump the border on your way to points north. Pull off the highway, stretch your legs a bit and see.

THE DIXIE PIG Barbecue restaurants tend to either fizzle or gain a following, and when they gain a following they tend to keep it. Such is the case with Blytheville’s Dixie Pig, at 701 N. Sixth St., a familyowned smoke shack that’s been slinging pulled pork and sides for 93 years. That’s right: seven years short of a century. There’s a reason a restaurant lasts that long.

THE DELTA GATEWAY MUSEUM Small-town museums are always a joy unto themselves, full of kitsch and history — both true and questionable — and old-timey things galore. Such is also the case with the new Delta Gateway Museum. Housed in a former department store in Blytheville’s historic commercial district, the museum focuses on the history, heritage and agricultural bounty of the area. It’s worth a stop if you’re looking to get the flavor of the area.

BENNY BOB’S BARBECUE Pulled pork is king in the Delta, and if you want to sample a Dixie Pig, Benny Bob’s Barbecue at 847 E. Main St. gets rave reviews from locals, with big, meaty pulled pork sandwiches, plus smoked chicken, ribs, cheeseburgers, tasty sides and catfish, all for small-town prices. 44

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

BRIAN CHILSON

relative whippersnapper compared to its crosstown rival The

HISTORIC HARDY: The Main Street is on the National Register, and offers shops galore. The Corner Booth Store is a cozy eatery; nearby Mammoth Spring will drown out nature with the roar of millions of gallons pouring over the dam.

DELICIOUS (LEFT), DANGEROUS (BELOW): Rhoda Adams shows off a plate of her famous tamales; the Lake Chicot State Park will take you on an alligator tour.

ARKANSAS TIMES

bike

BRIAN CHILSON

LOCAL 6 HOURS

IN TAMALE TOWN: LAKE VILLAGE

found and recycles and repurposes them, like creating an Adirondack chair made from vintage skis or serving trays with deer antler handles. You’ll find all sorts of other

If you’re headed to New Orleans or somewhere along the Redneck Riviera, the last place to stop in Arkansas’s most southeasterly county should be on your radar. The county seat of Chicot County,

home decor and furnishings in this massive warehouse, 3696 Highway 65.

OR TOUR THE LAKEPORT PLANTATION

Lake Village has quite a bit to offer for a town of only 2,600.

PICK UP SOME TAMALES AND PIE

Arkansas State University painstakingly restored this 1859 house and grounds, 601 state Highway 42, over the course of five years and continues to manage it. It’s lovely

Road Trip

Real

On beautiful Greers Ferry Lake

FaM

RecRea I LY DestIn tIon atIon

and fascinating and terrible to see and tour, If you do nothing in Lake Village, make sure you stop at Rhoda’s Famous Hot

Tamales, 714 St. Mary St., for a to-go

built on the backs of chattel slavery. ASU does solid work of relaying the history of the slave owners and slaves that once lived

making delicious Delta-style hot tamales

on the plantation.

for more than 30 years, but that’s not all full size or mini handhelds, are dynamite.

Make your next adventure in an outdoor lover's playground - FairField Bay. Whether it's motorcycling, an aTV/UTV excursion, or climbing to the top of arkansas' ONly Mountain island trail you'll find specTacUlar becomes the word of the day.

this 8,000-square-foot antebellum manse

order. Owner Rhoda Adams has been

she’s famous for. Her pies, available in

Take a

SPEND TIME ON THE STATE’S LARGEST NATURAL LAKE

They come in chocolate, coconut, lemon icebox, lemon meringue, sweet potato

Separated from the main channel of the

and pecan varieties, along with several

Mississippi River centuries ago, 20-mile long

half-half combos. If there is a better pie

Lake Chicot is the country’s largest oxbow

than Rhoda’s half sweet potato, half pecan,

lake. If you’re short on time, at least stop

we’ve never tasted it. Rhoda does a variety

at the Lake Village Welcome Center along

of soul food and burgers and such, too.

U.S. Highway 65 (and right across from Paul

Bring cash; that’s all she takes.

Michael) and spend a minute counting

SHOP PAUL MICHAEL The third generation of his family to be

turtles from the center’s deck that overlooks the lake. But if you’re up for more of an adventure, Lake Village State Park has 14

VisitFairfieldBay.com

Mountain Lake iveOzark Lv Resort & Community

cabins available for rent, dozens of camping

born and raised in Lake Village, antique

spots and primo crappie, bass and bream

treasure hunter Paul Michael started his

fishing. You can swim, too. If you’re lucky,

eponymous store in 1993. Today, it’s the

you’ll see wood storks. You can definitely

flagship of what’s grown into a massive

see alligators on the nighttime alligator boat

business, with additional locations in

tours. The visitor’s center for the state park

Canton, Texas; Lafayette, La.; and Monroe,

is on state Highway 144, 8 miles northeast of

La; and a manufacturing facility in nearby

Lake Village.

Dermott, where Michael takes items he’s

Meet Play

Photo Courtesy CJRW AP7T

7 90 miles ATV/UTV trails

LAKE PLAY • TrAiLs • GoLfiNG • fishiNG • 501.884.4202 Paid for with a combination of state and Greers ferry Lake/Little red river Tourism Association funds. Go to visitgreersferrylake.org for our free area guide. arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

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BRIAN CHILSON

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TUDOR IN THE DELTA: Wilson, a town bankrolled by the Lawrence family.

STROLL THROUGH STRATFORD-ONMISSISSIPPI According to Wilson family

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

BRIAN CHILSON

t’s safe to say that there is no other town in the state quite like Wilson. Founded by Robert E. Lee Wilson in 1886, Wilson eventually grew into the hub of a plantation that once employed over 11,000 workers. The town and the land for miles in every direction was wholly owned by the Wilson family until 2010, when it was purchased as part of a deal with The Lawrence Group, a massive agri-business conglomerate owned by Gaylon Lawrence Sr. and Gaylon Lawrence Jr. While the town had been in decline for years, since the death of Gaylon Lawrence Sr. in 2012 Gaylon Lawrence Jr. has sunk millions into Wilson, renovating, building, improving and using his seemingly bottomless checkbook to attract visionary people to the area, then bankrolling their ideas. His goals seem unclear, but it has made Wilson a most peculiar small town, not to mention a bright spot of progress in the Delta.

UPSCALE : Wilson Cafe has style and substance.

lore, R.E.L. “Roy” Wilson II, scion and heir apparent to the wealthy clan that owned the town, went to England for his honeymoon in the late 1920s and came back crazy for classic English architecture. He had plans drawn up and soon the magnificent Tudor-style mansion called Wildwood House, completed in 1928, was constructed on the edge of town. After Wildwood

was finished, every commercial building built in Wilson for the next 40 years was constructed in the Tudor style. The rest of the buildings received Tudor-inspired brick facades and wood shake roofs. Meticulously renovated and restored since Lawrence came to town, the result is a passable facsimile of an English village, like something out of the Harry Potter series, a half-mile from the Mississippi River.

EAT AT THE WILSON CAFE The Wilson Cafe at 2 N. Jefferson St. had been shuttered for over 10 years when the Lawrence renaissance came rolling through in 2012. To run it and spearhead the

com for a full menu and more information.

DOE’S KNOWS LUNCH & DINNER

LEARN A NEW WAY OF PLANTING Across the street from the cafe is Wilson Gardens, an organic produce farm. The gardens are run by Leslie Wolverton, formerly of Oxford, Miss., a veteran organic farmer who was given free rein to implement her ideas there. A building called The Grange serves as the offices of Wilson Gardens, but also a test kitchen, educational space and occasionally as a performance hall for music acts brought to town. Visit wilsongardens.com for more information.

Lunch: Mon- Fri 11am-2pm Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30pm • Fri & Sat 5:30-10pm FULL BAR & PRIVATE PARTY ROOM 1023 West Markham • Downtown Little Rock 501-376-1195 • www.doeseatplace.net

COMING SOON AT WILDWOOD WINE RESERVE DINNER

In partnership with

BRIAN CHILSON

OCTOBER 27  29 CABE FESTIVAL THEATRE

MEDIA SPONSOR

NOVEMBER 3 CHENAL COUNTRY CLUB

TICKETS & INFO at WILDWOODPARK.ORG or CALL 501.821.7275

MEDIA S P O N SO R

ANNIE is presented through special arrangement with Music Theatre International (MTI). All authorized performance materials are also supplied by MTI. www.MTIShows.com

20 919 DENNY ROAD • LIT TLE ROCK • 72223 WILDWOODPARK.ORG • 501. 821. 7275

WILSON GARDENS: Organic produce and The Grange, which features a test kitchen and educational space.

renovation of the cafe, Lawrence hired chef Joe Cartwright away from upscale Memphis eatery The Elegant Farmer. You’re not going to believe this, but these days the tiny cafe that seats a couple hundred people for lunch and dinner every week, tops, rivals any restaurant in Arkansas when it comes to decor and the quality of its fare. Inside, the place looks like something out of Architectural Digest, with every inch refurbished and every tile, cup, spoon, sink, light fixture and bit of trim carefully chosen to suggest an upscale take on a classic Delta diner of yore. The menu, meanwhile, reflects Cartwright’s 15 years working in some of Memphis’ best restaurants. Visit eatatwilson.

SHOP!

Yes, there is shopping in Wilson that goes far beyond the small grocery store on the square. White’s Mercantile, at 17 Cortez Kennedy Ave., in a renovated Tudor-style gas station, is the latest in a chain of chic shops with sister locations in Franklin and Nashville, Tenn. The brainchild of Nashville singer/songwriter Holly Williams (Hank Williams’ granddaughter), the Mercantile is restored to picture-perfection, and chock-full of hip, Pinterest-ready items, from cookbooks to candy to crockery to soap, all personally selected by Williams.

Thanks to our sponsors, vendors, performers, gumbo competition t participants, volunteers, Hillcres 0 neighbors, and this year’s 20,00 attendees! Sponsors: The Fountain | Nativ | Waste Management Regional Recycling & Waste

MURPHY ARTS DISTRICT

NEW BOOM FOR EL DORADO: The Murphy Arts District kicked off with performances by Brad Paisley and others.

FIRST: PITSTOP El Dorado is a trek from Central 48

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

Arkansas. Stop off at Fordyce and find the Round Table Coffee Shop at 115 W. First St. It’s about as quaint small-town-slice-of-life as it gets, and you’ll find the locals chewing the fat over coffee, an early lunch or late breakfast pastry at the charming train depot-turnedcafe. From the front steps, you can see the courthouse where Rolling Stones Ronnie Wood and Keith Richards were held after a 1975 arrest in the small town, an incident alluded to by the iconic tongue and lips on the sign for the nearby 4-Dice Restaurant, where the famously reckless rockers stopped for lunch.

OR PICK UP SOME SPUDNUTS You might think a mention of El Dorado, even in its pre-MAD years, would garner comments about the South Arkansas Symphony, the state’s longest-running, or the city’s ambitious college scholarship

rings out the door for later, but you won’t need my urging.

BRIAN CHILSON

n case you missed it, El Dorado is making big moves. $100 million moves, to be specific. On Sept. 28, the former oil boomtown celebrated the grand opening of the Murphy Arts District with a marathon of concerts from Migos, Train, Brad Paisley, Smokey Robinson — a lineup that served as a sort of statement for what kind of lively arts community (and eclectic patronage) MAD wants to develop, in part to boost the recruitment efforts of three publicly traded companies with headquarters in the area: Murphy Oil, Murphy USA and Deltic Timber. If, like most of us, your reasons to venture down pine-lined U.S. Highway 167 for a weekend trip to El Dorado have come up short, here’s a snapshot of how you might spend a day in and around the Union County town.

CRAZY FOR SPUDNUTS: Everyone is.

program, the “El Dorado Promise.” Mostly, though, people talk about the donuts. Since 1948, The Spudnut Shoppe Company Inc. at 810 W. Faulkner St. has been serving deceptively light, airy concoctions they call Spudnuts, so named because they’re made of potato flour. When you visit, you may notice a perfunctory tray of flavored varieties on the counter — blueberry donuts and chocolatecovered Bavarian creme. Ignore it. What you’re looking for is the unadulterated article, the plain glazed Spudnut. If you must have something to accompany it, make it black coffee. I’d recommend you accompany another dozen potato

STROLL THROUGH HISTORY El Dorado makes no bones about its strong corporate ties or its oil boom history, and there are homages all over to the town’s oil boom history. The Oil Heritage Park downtown, for example, is a sculptural guided tour through the oil boom of 1921 and the events that came after. Plaques on the plaza at 101 E. Cedar St. tell the story of oil “wildcatters” like H.L. Hunt, C.H. Murphy and Pat Marr, and of the time when a gas cap over the so-called Norphlet Dome exploded and “made a crater 500 feet across and 150 deep, which swallowed up the rig, the derrick and all of the drilling equipment,” resulting in the discovery of the Smackover Oil Field and the subsequent ballooning of populations of little towns Smackover and Norphlet in

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Tweet shop LOCAL ARKANSAS TIMES arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

UPCOMING EVENTS OCT 26-29 NOV 3-5

The Weekend Theater

The Rocky Horror Show

Argenta Plaza

OCT

Arkansas Times Craft Beer Festival

27 $35

ADVANCE

$40

Perfect for the day after Craft Beer Festival

AT THE DOOR

OCT

Clinton Parking Grounds

NOV

Easter Seals Presents

World Cheese Dip Championship

Art & Soul

The Studio Theatre

NOV

Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike

2-5 9-12

NOV

The Studio Theatre

NOV

St. Joseph Center of Arkansas

NOV

Raduno Brick Oven & Barroom

DramaCon 2017

3,4

Arkansas Urban Homesteading Conference

Harvest Beer Dinner

Go to CentralArkansasTickets.com to purchase these tickets and more! Arkansas Times new local ticketing site! If you’re a non-profit, freestanding venue or business selling tickets thru eventbrite or another national seller – call us 501.492.3994 – we’re local, independent and offer a marketing package!

LOCAL TICKETS, ONE PLACE 50

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

the following weeks. They describe the barrelhouses that popped up along “Hamburger Row,” and the madams and moonshine sales that the El Dorado police force was too small to control. In 1976, Barnette Oil Co.’s J.T. and Joanne Barnette donated a 12-foot-tall band wheel, a pale green remnant of the cable tool-rig days that stands at the entrance to the plaza.

LUNCH LIKE A LOCAL You’ll see lots of restaurant windowfronts in downtown El Dorado — the sprawling covered patio of the Laredo Grill, the cozy red brick Black Cat — but if you want to eat like you’re from El Dorado, walk a couple of blocks southwest to 211 S. West Ave. Once called Woody’s Grill, as a vintage photo on the walls inside reveals, Johnny B’s is an unpretentious, family-run diner with little fanfare, and if the dining room was any indication of the typical crowd, it’s clearly earned the devotion of the locals. The greasy spoon is tiny, with a curved corner window, a glass brick facade, loads of Coca-Cola paraphernalia and giant images of taco salads and breakfast plates lovingly rendered by airbrush on the windows. Plates piled high with curly bacon and chicken fried steaks emerge from a tiny window above a glass pie case, and you can order anything from burgers to Belgian waffles to boiled shrimp to the LLJ, an all dark-meat turkey patty served with peppered bacon and a bacon aioli that takes its name from the initials of the owner’s three grandchildren.

over to the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources in Smackover, where there’s a labyrinthian hall of exhibits on the science of oil extraction and refinement, as well as exhibits on the culture that sprung up around the drilling sites — cut-rate sleeper trains between Little Rock and El Dorado and depictions of after-sundown chaos in the lawless “Death Valley” to Smackover’s north. (Did you know that Vaseline’s active ingredient was discovered on the first oil rigs? Or that there was a circus performer named Rhene Salome Miller Meyer who became famous as Smackover’s “Goat Woman” for singing opera, raising goats and playing seven instruments at once?) For devotees of Civil War history or antebellum architecture, the Newton House Museum, owned by the South Arkansas Historical Preservation Society, sits at 510 N. Jackson St. and offers a look at what life was like for a plantation owner in 1849 (spoiler: It was pretty cush.)

HAPPY HOUR! Speaking of the seedier side of El Dorado’s past, Hill’s Recreation Parlor at 205 E. Cedar St. — right in the epicenter of the Murphy Arts District — is the oldest running pool hall in the state, and it’s not going anywhere. In fact, the Murphy Arts District project includes a renovation of the hall, whose back patio will serve as a de facto smoker’s oasis outside the otherwise smoke-free MAD Amphitheater. Grab a cold one here before dinner, or enjoy a game of snooker.

TAKE A MUSEUM TOUR

DINNER

MAD didn’t start from scratch; El Dorado’s MusicFest, its multimillion-dollar El Dorado High School Performing Arts Center and adjacent educational programs paved the way for the new arts district, and the town has a few museums to check out, too. The South Arkansas Arts Center at 110 E. Fifth St. celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2014 and features rotating exhibits in its three gallery spaces. If you don’t mind a 15-minute detour, hop

Part of developing a lively community is feeding people, and Dan Smith — the vice president of food and beverages for the Cleveland Indians and now vice president and general manager of the Murphy Arts District — aims to do it well. The Griffin Restaurant, a 200-seat “industrial chic” farm-to-table operation with a 100-foot sculpture of an oil drill outside, sits between MAD’s two major entertainment venues and features signature cocktails and

MURPHY ARTS DISTRICT

MURPHY GOES LIVE: Ludacris performs at Griffin Music Hall as part of the grand opening celebration of the MAD.

there’s live entertainment within; otherwise, you can visit the adjacent Griffin Music Hall or MAD Amphitheater for some after-dinner entertainment.

SEE A SHOW The MAD launch concerts were only the beginning; check the lineup at eldomad.com for a calendar of shows at the elegant 2,000-seat Griffin Music Hall or the lush outdoor MAD Amphitheater. If you’ve got children, don’t miss the adjacent playscape, one of the largest in the state.

STAY DOWNTOWN Should your boomtown revelry render the two-hour trip back to Central Arkansas a non-option, curl up at the Union Square Guest Quarters, a collection of 31 rooms and suites sprinkled across downtown El Dorado. Acommodations range from a fourbedroom 1925 oil boom mansion to more modest suites, all of which are within walking distance of the entertainment district and come with access to the Healthworks Fitness Center, a complimentary breakfast served in the old Central of Georgia train coach and a discounted rate on packages at the nearby Spa on Main.

BRIAN CHILSON

locally sourced plates. Excepting seafood, The Griffin stocks its kitchen from growers within a 150-mile radius of El Dorado, and features its farm partners on a mural inside. The wine list is a mile long and the booze offerings are plentiful: a Griffin Tree Sap made with Rocktown Distillery bourbon, maple simple syrup, Cointreau and blackberries; a Mad Margarita made with Sauza Blue-Silver tequila; and an El Dorado Tornado with Myers’ rum, fresh orange juices, grenadine and Grand Marnier. You can keep it light with a Farmer’s Market salad or a crudite plate with The Griffin’s Smokin’ Gorgi sauce, or feast on the Tournedos Griffin, two filet mignons atop grilled green tomatoes, one served with a red wine reduction and one with a Bearnaise. There’s a Boat of Barbecue Shrimp with barbecue butter; a duck and Andouille gumbo; the Razorback and Mac cavatappi baked with three cheeses and pulled pork; and the signature jambalaya, made from Ralston Family Farms rice with andouille, Tasso ham, chicken and shrimp. And, in the event you didn’t get your fill of Spudnuts earlier, or need a quick reminder, there’s a dessert dish called The Lost Spudnut that makes use of the day-old offerings from the donut mainstay down the street. Make a reservation at eldomad.com/griffinrestaurant. If you go on a Thursday night,

LEARN ABOUT EARLY OIL INDUSTRY: At the Museum of Natural Resources in Smackover.

arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

36 HOURS IN

y t n u o C Pike YOU'LL DIG IT.

BRIAN CHILSON

f a friend suggested a weekend jaunt to Murfreesboro, you’d probably land somewhere between skeptical and “Hell, no.” A quick Google search might suggest you’re right, too; an image of a rusty old barn leaning Tower of Pisa-style appears, alongside a statistic about the population hovering around 1,700 people. The parking lot at the Crater of Diamonds State Park filled to the brim with outof-state license plates on a recent Friday afternoon begs to differ, though. The locals probably would, too — at least those who weren’t predisposed to keep the nearby Lake Greeson’s charms under wraps. If your listlessness should steer you toward that great undiscovered country of Southwest Arkansas (or, if you’re on your way to Dallas and looking to get off the highway for a spell), here are a few recommendations.

SINCE 1909: Murfreesboro mercantile.

FIRST STOP: HAWKINS VARIETY STORE As the diamond mine that Murfreesboro is best known for tends to stay hotter and sunnier than its densely forested surroundings, it’s best to plan your dig for the morning. If you’re an early bird coming from Little Rock to dig for diamonds, or even if you’re a late sleeper coming from Hot Springs, that means you’ll pull into town just in time to grab some sustenance at the Hawkins Variety Store, 51 Courthouse Square, an old-fashioned mercantile and soda fountain on the square in the historic Owens-Stelle Building. The structure was erected around 1909, during the diamond rush that followed farmer John Wesley Huddleston’s discovery of the precious stones in what was said to be oddly greenish soil, and originally housed a doctor’s office and a pharmacy. Today, the store’s motto is “We have almost everything … if you can help us find it!” Score some coffee, muffins, a peach Nehi

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

soda or a baked-in-house cinnamon roll to take with you on your dig — or a vintage toy or puzzle to keep your kids occupied should digging for diamonds fail to command their attention.

START DIGGING Somewhere between 66 and 144 million years ago, a volcanic vent called the “Prairie Creek” diatreme caused a bunch of rock, gas and minerals – including diamonds that had crystallized from carbon — to bubble up to the earth’s surface. That explosion formed a crater. Fortythree years ago, the state created the Crater of Diamonds State Park, 209 State Park Road. Today, thousands of people gather to hunt the surface for diamonds after a heavy rain or to “wet sift,” gathering a pile of gravel and dipping small batches of it into water-filled troughs under park pavilions in hopes of finding a diamond in the mix. There are lots of other gems and minerals to find, too, and park rangers to help you identify them: jasper, quartz, lamproite, barite, calcite and amethyst. The park offers buckets, shovels, sifting screens and all sorts of other tools for rental, or you can bring your own — as long as it’s not battery-operated or motorized. Wear old shoes or boots and bring plenty of sunscreen — the sun in the diamond crater can be unforgiving. When you’ve had your fill of geological treasure hunting, check out the rest of the state park; the diamond crater is only about 38 of its 911 acres. There are three easy trails to hike: the Prospector Trail (1.2 miles), the Little Missouri River Trail (1.2 miles) or the Wildlife Observation Blind Trail, where you can observe and photograph white-tailed deer, gray squirrels and many bird species. Or, if your favorite wildlife is whatever’s on the end of your hook, go for some largemouth bass, bream or catfish on the Little Missouri River. The Diamond Springs Water Park has a 4,166-square-foot wading pool with geysers, water slides and a deck to chill out on. Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. daily in peak season (Memorial Day Weekend-Labor Day), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily in off-season.

HEAD TO THE LAKE Lake Greeson, north up state Highway 19 from Murfreesboro, is the result of the Little Missouri

BRIAN CHILSON

River’s being penned up at Narrows Dam at its southern end, and is a stunner: 7,000 acres of hiking trails through the hardwoods of the Ouachita Mountains, a trail to an old Cinnabar Mine and a 31-mile Bear Creek Cycle Trail for ATVs, dirt bikes and mountain bikes. There’s also great rainbow trout fishing — as well as striped, white, largemouth and spotted bass — in the tailwaters below the dam, swimming areas at Laurel Creek Recreation Center, the nearby Daisy State Park and elsewhere, two private resorts and a towering geological formation called Chimney Rock.

CHECK OUT THE

well-maintained and, we imagine, a perfect place to overnight with small children. Check them out at diamondscabins.com.

501.379.9111 | 323 S. Cross St. | Little Rock

PAY HOMAGE TO GLEN CAMPBELL If you’re on your way back to Little Rock, take state Highway 26 through Billstown and Delight, the home of a different sort Arkansas gem — Glen Campbell, who died in August at age 81 after suffering from Alzheimer’s disease. Just before you get to Delight, you’ll see a sign for Billstown, Glen Campbell’s hometown. (If you get to the sign welcoming you to “Delight, Home of Glen Campbell,” you’ve gone too far). Take the right turn onto the quaint, tree-canopied Billstown Road and look for a wooden sign on the left that reads “Campbell Cemetery.” There lies Campbell, performer of “Rhinestone Cowboy” and star of the screen and studio.

Join us for our City of Wilson Christmas Open House, Shopping Around the Square. November 25th • 10am to 4pm.

BRIAN CHILSON

GATHER HERE: Diamonds Old West Cabins guests can grill S'Mores in tepees.

TEEPEES On the winding mountainside road to Lake Greeson, you probably noticed a conspicuous roadside oddity – a collection of small, twostory buildings meant to evoke the feel of an old frontier town. There’s the Sheriff’s Office/Jail, a “Crazy Diamonds” Saloon,” the Livery and Stables, the Apothecary Cabin, the Church Cabin, the Pony Express Cabin, a faux brothel labeled “Miss Kitty’s” and a sunny playground with giant musical chimes, a “corn pit” and a pedal car track. That’s Diamonds Old West Cabins, a sort of miniature hotel complex with a well-stocked general store, two giant teepees for guests to gather in and make s’mores over a campfire and, despite the deceptively simple building exteriors, luxurious lodging. The interior stylings vary — a couple of the suites even come with specialty beds with music, massage and overhead light shows — but all cabins come with memory foam beds (some of them are canopied and curtained), flat-screen TVs, a porch or deck, an outdoor grill pit, fireplaces, wireless internet and other decidedly anachronistic creature comforts. It’s a little “Silver Dollar City” kitschy and a little odd, but incredibly

ARTISAN MEATS • CHEESES • BEER • WINE • DIPPING OILS • SPREADS

RIDE TO BUBBA'S: From the Bonnerdale airport for craft beer.

OR HAVE A COLD ONE Yes, there’s beer, as well as diamonds, in them thar Ouachitas. If you’ve decided to head on to Hot Springs after your Pike County peregrinations, check out Bubba’s Brews Sports Pub & Grill, at 8091 Airport Road in Bonnerdale. (If the parking lot is full, there’s a trolley from the airport’s parking area.) Bubba’s brews a seasonal beer (like the fall Belgian-style witbier) and a range of year-round ales: the 10-point Bock, the Arkie Amber Ale, Bubba’s Dirty Blonde, the Buckshot Pale Ale, the Wilford Oatmeal Stout, the Sandar Pilsner, the Skullcrusher IPA or “Scooter Trash,” an Americanstyle India Pale Ale. The pub foodfocused menu includes crawfish tails, pulled pork sandwiches, onion rings and stuffed shrimp. Bubba’s hours: noon-8 p.m. Thu. and Sun., noonmidnight Fri.-Sat.

www.wilsonarkansas.com

Congratulations Staci Croom-Raley

Women Entrepreneur of Arts & Education.

IN ARKANSAS,

38 Program sites within 23 implementing agencies serve more than 5,000 Arkansas children across 60 counties annually.

Educating Children. Empowering Parents. Enriching Communities.

hippyusa.org arktimes.com OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM

24 HOURS

s g n i r p H ot S IN

BRIAN CHILSON

THE CITY THAT WAS BUILT ON WATER.

hough the gangstersand-gun-molls heyday of Hot Springs is over, so are, thankfully, the days when Bathhouse Row was lined with T-shirt shops and the hottest thing going was either losing Junior’s college fund on the ponies, riding a floating bus from World War II into Lake Hamilton, or watching a chicken play tic-tac-toe at the I.Q. Zoo. Long beset with a kind of threadbare elegance after years of decline, Hot Springs has seen a gradual but steady resurgence in recent years, with the beauty, laidback nature and affordability of the town beginning to attract young artists, chefs, tastemakers and entrepreneurs, all looking to create something new from the old. The result is an influx of energy that has finally snowballed to the point that things are changing; the city has a vibe that hasn’t been felt for decades. Though what Hot Springs will be 10 years from now is still gelling up and will be for some time now, all signs point to something good. It’s definitely not the cheesy tourist trap it used to be.

HAVE THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY

DELICIOUS DELUCA'S: For pizza Napoletana style from Big Apple-born chef Anthony Valinoti.

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

When you’re on a road trip, what’s the point of eating the same food you could get at the IHOP back home? Break the chain breakfast and head to the Colonial Pancake

and Waffle House, at 111 Central Ave. A Hot Springs staple since 1962, the restaurant has been featured in national magazines, including Southern Living, and features big waffles and fluffy pancakes in several styles, plus breakfast delicacies like thick ham steaks, hash browns, homemade biscuits and the preferred liquid fattener of Southerners everywhere: chocolate gravy. You haven’t really been to Hot Springs if you haven’t had breakfast at Colonial.

WALK IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE BABE Once upon a time, baseball was big in Hot Springs. It all started in 1886, when the team that would become the Chicago Cubs came to Hot Springs to get a jump on training and escape the harsh Midwestern winters. The practice caught on, and before long, a who’s who of baseball greats came to Hot Springs to train with their respective clubs, including Ty Cobb, Joe DiMaggio, Babe Ruth, Honus Wagner, Cy Young, Leroy “Satchel” Paige, Stan Musial, Jackie Robinson, Hank Aaron and others. The Hot Springs Historic Baseball Trail celebrates the city’s colorful sporting history. A free smartphone app — available at hotspringsbaseballtrail.com — leads visitors to stops all over the city, explaining the significance of each to the national pastime.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 56

Hey, do this!

OCT-NOV Food, Music, Entertainment and everything else that’s

OCT 26-28

MANDY BARNETT, the original Ryman Auditorium, star who portrayed Patsy Cline in “Always… Patsy Cline” appears at Murry’s Dinner Playhouse to perform Patsy’s most enduring hits, like “Crazy” and “I Fall to Pieces.” Visit www.murrysdp. com for tickets and show times.

OCT 29

NOV 2-12

Ballet Arkansas Children’s Series presents PETER & THE WOLF for one show only at 2 p.m. at UA-Pulaski Tech’s Charts Theater. This fully narrated comedy is just for kids. Visit www.balletarkansas. org for tickets.

NOV 30

IAN MOORE HOLIDAY ACOUSTIC TOUR at Four Quarter Bar at 9 p.m.

The Studio Theatre presents VANYA AND SONIA AND MASHA AND SPIKE about three siblings and one hot mess. The comedy promises a good time. For tickets and show times, visit www. centralarkansastickets. com.

NOV 18

ALTON BROWN LIVE: EAT YOUR SCIENCE takes place at Robinson Center at 7 p.m. Tickets are $39.50-$49.50 and are available online at www. ticketmaster.com.

OCT 28

THE 7TH ANNUAL WORLD CHEESE DIP CHAMPIONSHIP takes place at the Clinton Presidential Center from 12 p.m.-3 p.m. Amateurs and pros from around the country will compete to win the title of People’s Choice (chosen by you) and Judge’s Choice. For tickets, visit www.centralarkansastickets.com. ■ Ballet Arkansas presents Motion on Main Halloween Masquerade Ball at 7 p.m. Tickets are $25 and available at www.balletarkansas.org. ■ The annual Central Arkansas Pride Festival kicks off with a parade down President Clinton Avenue at 1 p.m. Pride Talks take place at 3 p.m. Enjoy live music and entertainment at the Riverfront Amphitheater and River Market Pavilions until 8 p.m.

OCT 29-NOV 18

Verizon Arena has a host of shows this month. CIRQUE DE SOLEIL’S CRYSTAL, a breakthrough ice experience, takes place from Oct. 26-Oct. 29. AARON LEWIS & BLACKBERRY SMOKE is live in concert Nov. 2. CASTING CROWNS takes the Verizon stage on Nov. 3. CHRIS STAPLETON headlines the show, featuring Marty Stuart, on Nov. 16. The 2017 COSPLAY CON & ANIME EXPERIENCE takes place Nov. 18. For show times and tickets, visit www.verizonarena.com.

The Arkansas Repertory Theatre presents The School for Lies. Based on Molière’s classic 17th century comedy The Misanthrope, The School of Lies exposes the hypocrisies of high society with sharp wit and even sharper observations of human nature. For tickets, visit www.therep.org.

VINE & DINE, a wine reserve dinner benefitting the Wildwood Academy of Music & the Arts, takes place at Chenal Country Club at 6:30 p.m. Black tie optional. Tickets are $200. All proceeds benefit the academy. For tickets and more info, visit www. wildwoodpark.org.

NOV 11

The beloved musical ANNIE will be performed at Wildwood Park at 20919 Denny Road in Little Rock. Show times are Friday at 7:30 p.m., Saturday at 7:30 p.m. and Sunday at 3 p.m. For tickets, visit www. wildwoodpark.org.

THROUGH OCT 29

North Little Rock Parks & Rec present the CATFISH ROAD FESTIVAL at the Burns Park Soccer Complex from 2-7 p.m. with food trucks, a beer garden, face painting and live music by Runaway Planet and Joseph Darr. Admission is $1 for adults and free for kids.

NOV 2

OCT 27-29

NOV 4

Classic rock band America makes an appearance at UCA’s Reynolds Performance Hall in Conway. Show time is 7:30 p.m. For tickets and upcoming shows, visit www.uca.edu/ publicappearances.

NOV 22

CIRQUE DREAMS HOLIDAZE is here for one night only at 7:30 p.m. Experience the wonder and excitement of the season that only Cirque can capture. Tickets start at $32 and are available online at www.ticketmaster.com.

FUN!

NOV 4-5

NOV 25

K-LOVE Christmas takes place at 7 p.m. and features STEVEN CURTIS CHAPMAN, PLUMB, WE ARE MESSENGERS and MARC MARTEL. Enjoy a night of Christmas favorites and top hits from the artists you know and love. Tickets are $22.99-$48.99 and are available online at www. ticketmaster.com.

The always popular food and wine pairing event featuring delicious recipes from the Junior League of Little Rock cookbook “BIG TASTE OF LITTLE ROCK” is back on Wednesday, November 1st between 4-7 p.m.! The cookbook is available for sale at Colonial along with the perfectly paired wines. Colonial Wine & Spirits 11200 W. Markham Street, Little Rock. Info@colonialwineshop.com. ■ Look for the COLONIAL CELEBRATE NOVEMBER MAGAZINE for your holiday gift giving available at Colonial Wine & Spirits. The COLONIAL CELEBRATE DECEMBER MAGAZINE will be available in the November 30th issue of the Arkansas Times.

Craft beer lovers, this one’s for you. THE ARKANSAS TIMES CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL returns to Argenta from 6 p.m.-9 p.m. The festival has sold out in years past, so get your tickets today at www.centralarkansastickets. com to sample more than 200 beers from 50 local, regional and national breweries plus good eats from around town. Rain or shine, the craft beer, food and fun will be flowing.

OCT 31-NOV 25

THROUGH OCT 31

NOV 6

NOV 7

NOV 9-11

NOV 29-DEC 3

NOV 29-DEC 24

Chris Stapleton

The Arkansas Symphony Orchestra performs ROMEO AND JULIET at Robinson Center. Saturday’s show takes place at 7:30 p.m. with a Sunday matinee at 3 p.m. “Spanish Dance” takes place on Nov. 7 at Robinson Center at 7 p.m. For tickets and a complete schedule of events this month, visit www. arkansassymphony.org.

OCT 27

SHERLOCK HOLMES BASKERVILLE debuts at Murry’s Dinner Playhouse. Five actors portray 40 characters in this comedic thriller. Visit www.murrysdp.com for tickets and show times.

PJ MASKS LIVE! Time to be a Hero takes the Robinson Center stage at 6:30 p.m. The Very Important PJ Masks Package features premium show seating, access to an after-show Meet & Greet photo opportunity with your three favorite PJ Masks characters and a PJ Masks souvenir bag. Tickets are on sale now at www.ticketmaster.com.

The new production of the Tony Award-winning musical masterpiece, LES MISÉRABLES, comes to Robinson Center. Experience the enthralling story once again as if for the first time. Hear “I Dreamed a Dream,” “On My Own” and “One More Day” in the fully enhanced sound system at the newly renovated concert hall. Tickets are $26-$72 and online at www. ticketmaster.com.

Tickets are on sale now for AN EVENING WITH GARRISON KEILLOR at 7 p.m. at Robinson Center. Tickets are $49-75 and available online at www. ticketmaster.com. For more info, visit www. robinsoncentersecondact. com.

The Little Rock Zoo transforms into BOO AT THE ZOO from 6-9 p.m. It’s Arkansas’s largest Halloween festival. Come in costume, and enjoy the decorations, music, games, trick or treating, photo ops and more. For more info, visit www. littlerockzoo.com.

NOV 2

PAWS IN THE VINEYARD benefiting CARE from 6-9pm Great food & beverages, silent auction, a wine pull, live music and a meet few special adoptable dogs. Wine and brew and rescues! Trapnall Hall

Friends of the Central Arkansas Libraries (FOCAL) invite you to the USED BOOK SALE at the Main Library basement at 100 Rock Street. Hardbacks are $1, and paperbacks are 50 cents. The event runs from 5-7 p.m. on Thursday (for FOCAL members only) and from 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Friday and Saturday for the public. FOCAL members may arrive at 9 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Non-members may purchase a $5 wristband for Thursday night entry and for early access on Friday and Saturday. For more info, visit www.cals.org.

The Arkansas Repertory Theatre presents the world premiere of a new chamber musical adaptation of O. Henry’s beloved holiday story, THE GIFT OF THE MAGI. Opening night is Friday, Dec. 1 with preview performances and special events during the play’s run. For tickets and show times, visit www. therep.org.

NOV. 4TH BARRETT BARBER 9PM $10 ADVANCE $12 DAY OF SHOW 18+

THROUGH DEC 31

NOV. 17TH BIG DAM HORNS 9:30PM NO OPENING ACT $8 18+

“THE ART OF SEATING: 200 YEARS OF AMERICAN DESIGN” is on display at the Arkansas Arts Center and contains more than 40 exceptional examples of American designed chairs. For more information, visitarkarts.com.

NOV. 24TH TRAGIKLY WHITE 9:30PM NO OPENING ACT $10 18+

THE MUSEUM SCHOOL SALE

NOVEMBER 17 & 18

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BRIAN CHILSON

Though it’s hard to screw up pizza, it’s even harder to make pizza so good that it truly rises above the pack and becomes something like cuisine. That’s what they do at Hot Springs’ Deluca Pizza Napoletana. Anthony Valinoti, the Brooklyn native who runs Deluca, brings the Big Apple love, making everything in house for the simple menu of antipasto, meatballs, salads, pizza and two desserts. The secret is in the ingredients Valinoti uses, which are nothing but the best; imported meats and cheeses, carefully selected vegetables. Served on Deluca’s signature, crisp and chewy crust, the result is a symphony on the tongue.

TAKE THE WATERS: For elegant lodging.

CHECK IN Though Hot Springs once had its share of elegant hotels, the lodging scene has been on the decline — until now. The Waters Hotel, opposite from Bathhouse Row at 340 Central Ave., opened in February 2016 after a 16-month, $8 million

world’s most powerful Tesla coil, plus the Bob Wheeler Science Skywalk that allows visitors to stroll high in the canopy of the forest outside via a walkway 32 feet off the ground. The skywalk ends in a giant, bowl-shaped cargo net that lets you test your tolerance of high places while lounging over the gulf. Whether you’ve got kids in tow or not, Mid-America is definitely worth the time.

BRIAN CHILSON

EAT A WELL-ROUNDED LUNCH

renovation. The work transformed the circa 1913 Thompson Building into a sleek, 62-room boutique hotel worthy of any bustling metropolis and a top-tier nightly price. Featuring an outdoor garden, shopping and nightlife just steps away, and on-site fine dining at The Avenue restaurant, The Waters is definitely the place to stay if you want an upscale Hot Springs experience. The venerable and imposing Arlington Hotel, with its Spanish Renaissance architecture, long front porch, bathhouse, mountainside pool and old-world ambiance, has fallen into such disrepair that the city of Hot Spring has ordered the owners to make repairs or shut down. The new owners, Sky Capital Group, have promised to renovate. Time will tell.

IT'S SUPERIOR: For brews.

GEEK OUT

SUDS UP

Opened in 1979, the MidAmerica Science Museum, at 500 Mid America Blvd., is a haven for those looking to learn more about how the physical world around us works. It features hands-on exhibits demonstrating everything from the laws of motion to how rivers and mountains form. At one point, the place had gotten a little run down, what with all those sticky hands touching everything. That changed starting in 2011, when the museum was awarded a $7.8 million renovation grant from the Donald W. Reynolds Foundation. Reopened in March 2015, the museum is now cooler than ever, with over 75 new exhibits, the Guinness-recognized

Though several of the historic bathhouses along Central Avenue still sit empty, entrepreneurs are beginning to breathe new life into the old spas, beginning with the triumph that is Superior Bathhouse Brewery, at 329 Central Ave. Situated at the far end of the row nearest the Arlington Hotel, the 1916 bathhouse, which had been vacant since 1983, opened in July 2013 as a brewpub. The first and only brewery situated in a U.S. National Park, it’s now Hot Springs’ reigning beervana for lovers of craft brews, with all the Superior suds made on site with the thermal waters that once soaked away the aches and pains of bathers.

Paired with a nice menu of gastropub food and lovely views of Central Avenue, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon with friends.

TEST YOUR 'SKILL' Though Oaklawn Racing & Gaming runs the ponies only in winter and spring, a year-round draw these days is its gaming area, the only legal, casino-style gambling allowed in the state other than at Southland Greyhound Park in West Memphis. With the electronic gaming side of things expanded in recent years, players can try their hand at “games of skill” like video poker, roulette, craps, blackjack and other games, then either celebrate their winnings or drown their losing sorrows at Silks Bar and Grill or Pop’s Lounge.

DINE LAKESIDE After a big day of shopping, lounging, gambling and strolling the avenue, it’s time for a meal. For a romantic night out, one go-to in Hot Springs is Luna Bella, at 104 Grand Isle Way. A white linen experience that will remind you of the glory days of old Hot Springs, Luna Bella features sweeping views of Lake Hamilton and a big menu of carefully prepared dishes, including several kinds of pasta and a large selection of seafood, plus lamb chops, steaks and veal. Its wine list is one of the best in the city, with most available by the bottle or glass. Also impressive is their slate of martinis, with over a dozen varieties of the classic drink.

The Heart of Historic Hot Springs National Park Thermal baths and spa • A national park outside any door. Venetian Dining Room and Lobby Lounge with weekend entertainment. Private beauty and facial salon • Championship golf courses.

For Reservations: (800) 643-1502 239 Central Ave. Hot Springs, AR 71901 www.ArlingtonHotel.com 56

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

Hot Springs Live Music Calendar SPONSORED BY OAKLAWN

_____ for a November to Remember?_____

NOVEMBER LINE-UP SILKS BAR & GRILL

For a complete calendar of events, visit hotsprings.org

3-4 10-11 17-18 24-25

NOVEMBER 1 (WEDS.) Joe Hall @ the Big Chill Hump Night Blues Band @ the Ohio Club, 8

NOVEMBER 2 (THURS.)

Mayday by Midnight Nerd Eye Blind John Calvin Brewer Band Big Dam Horns

AND JOIN US FOR KARAOKE EVERY WEDNESDAY, AS WELL AS LIVE TEAM TRIVIA THURSDAY AND FRIDAY NIGHT LIVE KARAOKE IN POP’S LOUNGE! Mayday By Midnight

NOVEMBER 9 (THURSDAY) Larry Womack & Jackie Beaumont @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 7-11 Clyde Pound Trio @ the Ohio Club, 7-10 John French @ the Big Chill

NOVEMBER 10 (FRIDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Lance Daniels and the Domes @ the Big Chill Sad Daddy @ Maxine’s, 9 Nerd Eye Blind @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

NOVEMBER 11 (SATURDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Akeem Kemp Band @ the Big Chill Nerd Eye Blind @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

NOVEMBER 15 (WEDNESDAY) Hump Night Blues Band @ the Ohio Club, 8 Chuck n Glenn @ the Big Chill

NOVEMBER 16 (THURSDAY) Larry Womack & Jackie Beaumont @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 7-11 Clyde Pound Trio @ the Ohio Club, 7-10 Wes Jeans and SCBS Showcase @ the Big Chill

AW AY .

Hump Night Blues Band @ the Ohio Club, 8 Spa City Blues, Society Blues Jam @ the Big Chill

NOVEMBER 22 (WEDNESDAY) Hump Night Blues Band @ the Ohio Club, 8 Spa City Blues, Society Blues Jam @ the Big Chill

NOVEMBER 23 (THURSDAY)

TES

NOVEMBER 8 (WEDNESDAY)

NOVEMBER 18 (SATURDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Mister Lucky @ the Big Chill John Calvin Brewer Band @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

Larry Womack & Jackie Beaumont @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 7-11 Clyde Pound Trio @ the Ohio Club, 7-10

INU

NOVEMBER 4 (SATURDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Brick Fields and Danny Smith @ the Big Chill The Federalis, Matthew McNeal, Ryan Sauders @ Maxine’s, 8 Mayday by Midnight @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

NOVEMBER 17 (FRIDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Mister Lucky @ the Big Chill John Calvin Brewer Band @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

NOVEMBER 3 (FRIDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Brick Fields and Danny Smith @ the Big Chill Cosmoceans @ Maxine’s, 8 Mayday by Midnight @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

Larry Womack & Jackie Beaumont @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 7-11 Clyde Pound Trio @ the Ohio Club, 7-10 Dave Almond @ the Big Chill

Walker Lukens

Friday & Saturday | 10 p.m.–2 a.m.

NOVEMBER 24 (FRIDAY)

ARK

Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Moxie (with Tara and Brent) @ the Big Chill The Big Dam Horns @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

ANSA

S ’ F AV O R I T E P L A C E T O

Y PLA

NOVEMBER 25 (SATURDAY) Willie Davis & Company @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 8:30-12:30 Moxie (with Tara and Brent) @ the Big Chill The Big Dam Horns @ Silks Bar & Grill, Oaklawn, 10-2

NOVEMBER 29 (WEDNESDAY) Hump Night Blues Band @ the Ohio Club, 8 David Ball @ the Big Chill

NOVEMBER 30 (THURSDAY) Larry Womack & Jackie Beaumont @ Arlington Resort Hotel Lobby & Bar, 7-11 Clyde Pound Trio @ the Ohio Club, 7-10

HOTSPRINGS.ORG

ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO ARKANSAS TIMES

ITH TS W S! N U O G DISC ARD

BI N REW AW OAKL

EARN

oaklawn.com

GAMBLING PROBLEM? CALL 1-800-522-4700.

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GROW grow LOCAL

ARKANSAS TIMES MARKETPLACE TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION, CALL LUIS AT 501.375.2985

RFP for Parris Towers 1800 S. Broadway Street, Little Rock, AR. BIDS DUE: Thursday, Nov. 2, 2017, at 2:00pm PRE-BID MEETING will be held on site on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017. Times: Site: 1:30pm - 2:15pm, Mechanical Room: 2:15pm - 3:00pm, Unit: 3:00pm - 3:45pm. PLANS: Hard Copies of plans available upon request and at subcontractor’s expense from Southern Reprographics, phone: 501-372-4011, www.sriplanroom.com OR for a link contact Linda at lstache@ gormanusa.com. Contact Info: Linda Stache, Gorman & Company, Phone: 608-835-5177, Fax: 608-835-3667 CERTIFICATIONS: SBE, MBE, WBE, EBE, DBE, SECTION 3 Please note: This is a prevailing wage rate project.

Dry Cleaning Drop-Off • Photo Kiosk • Immunizations

Wagner

SOLUTIONS for YOUR HEALTH

wagnerRX

Gifts for every occasion! Come visit us on the square in Wilson! 5 N. Jefferson, Wilson, AR 72395 870-655-8415 Cafe open 8am-5:30pm

frappes, mochas, smoothies & more

3644 West State Hwy 18 • Manila, AR 72442

Come visit us on the square in Wilson! 5 N. Jefferson, Wilson, AR 72395 — 870-665-8415

RFP for Powell Towers 1010 Wolfe Street, Little Rock, AR. BIDS DUE: Thursday, Nov. 2, 2017, at 2:00pm PRE-BID MEETING will be held on site on Friday, Oct. 13, 2017. Times: Site: 9:00am - 9:45am, Roof (exhaust fan repl.): 9:45am - 10:30am, Mechanical Room: 10:30am - 11:15am, Unit: 11:15am - Noon. PLANS: Hard Copies of plans available upon request and at subcontractor’s expense from Southern Reprographics, phone: 501-372-4011, www.sriplanroom.com OR for a link contact Linda at lstache@ gormanusa.com. Contact Info: Linda Stache, Gorman & Company, Phone: 608-835-5177, Fax: 608-835-3667 CERTIFICATIONS: SBE, MBE, WBE, EBE, DBE, SECTION 3 Please note: This is a prevailing wage rate project.

PING P O H S Y A D I L THE HO SON A E S E H T F O EVENT

RFP for Cumberland Towers 311 E. Eighth Street, Little Rock, AR.

NOVEMBER 8-11, 2017

S TAT E H O U S E C O N V E N T I O N C E N T E R B R IN G A TOY

Bring a toy for Arkansas Children's Hospital toy drive and go to the front of the line

Presenting Sponsor

Purchase tickets at jllr.org/holiday-house 58

OCTOBER 26, 2017

ARKANSAS TIMES

For all your interior - exterior painting needs Residential & Commercial Free Estimates · 30 years experiance Will provide References

Mike Morris 501-541-6662 Mizarpainting1@gmail.com

ARKANSAS TIMES

870.561.1500

MIZAR PAINTING

Shop shop LOCAL ARKANSAS TIMES

BIDS DUE: Thursday, Nov. 2, 2017, at 2:00pm PRE-BID MEETING will be held on site on Thursday, Oct. 12, 2017. Times: Site: 9:00am -9:45am, Roof: 9:45am - 10:30am, Mechanical Room: 10:30am 11:15am, Unit: 11:15am - Noon. PLANS: Hard Copies of plans available upon request and at subcontractor’s expense from Southern Reprographics, phone: 501-372-4011, www.sriplanroom.com OR for a link contact Linda at lstache@gormanusa.com. Contact Info: Linda Stache, Gorman & Company, Phone: 608-835-5177, Fax: 608-835-3667 CERTIFICATIONS: SBE, MBE, WBE, EBE, DBE, SECTION 3 Please note: This is a prevailing wage rate project.

2017

OCT. 27 2017

$35

ADVANCE

$40

AT THE DOOR

Presented by

Serving our famous brats! B e n e f i t i n g t h e A r g e n ta A r t s D i s t r i c t Participating Restaurants

EDWARDS FOOD GIANT SERVING THEIR FAMOUS BRATS

SKINNY J’S ARGENTA

CREGEEN’S IRISH PUB

DOE’S EAT PLACE

DAMGOODE PIES

SANTO COYOTE

DIAMOND BEAR ARKANSAS ALE HOUSE

SOUTHERN TABLE

FLYWAY BREWING COMPANY OLD CHICAGO PIZZA NLR & CONWAY

Live music by

< The Creek Rocks

VINO’S BREW PUB

with Betse & Clarke

WHOLE HOG NLR

Pa r t i c i pat i n g b r e w e r i e s ABITA ANTHEM BALLAST POINT BELL’S BIKE RACK BLUE CANOE BOULEVARD BRECKENRIDGE BUFFALO CALDERA CARSON’S CASCADE

CLOWN SHOES COOP CORE DAMGOODE BREWS DESTIHL DIAMOND BEAR ELYSIAN FLYWAY FOUNDERS GHOST RIVER GOLDCREST GOOSE ISLAND

GREAT RAFT GREEN FLASH INDEPENDENCE KONA LAGUNITAS LAZY MAGNOLIA LEFT COAST LOST 40 MOTHER’S NEW BELGIUM NORTH COAST OSKAR BLUES

OZARK PINEY RIVER PRAIRIE REBEL KETTLE SAMUEL ADAMS SCHLAFLY SHINER SHOCK TOP SIERRA NEVADA SIXPOINT SQUATTERS STIEGL

STONE STONE’S THROW SUPERIOR BATHHOUSE SWEETWATER TALLGRASS TIN ROOF VICTORY VINO’S BREW PUB WASATCH WISEACRE

M O R E TO B E A N N O U N C E D ! ! ! T I C K E T S ! A v a i l a b l e o n l y

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OCTOBER 26, 2017

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