10 minute read
HIKING THE LOVIT
LOVE the LOVIT
THE LAKE OUACHITA VISTA TRAIL IS UNDERRATED — AND A PERFECTLY LOW-STAKES WAY TO TRY OUT SPRING BACKPACKING.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY STEPHANIE SMITTLE
The whole human-versus-the-elements thing was a mismatch from the get-go, right? I’m guessing the Garden of Eden was blissfully free of poison ivy and Lone Star ticks, but that bit where the snake crashes the party was a pretty good indicator of outdoor hazards to come — and frankly, sounds an awful lot like August in Arkansas. As ever and everywhere, Mother Nature always bats last in The Natural State, and most of your time ramping up to a backpacking trip here will be spent asking, “What bad problems can happen to me and what can I do about that?” And while that’s crucial to consider, it leaves very little time for pondering the possibility that good things will happen. Behold, the following list of virtues of the Lake Ouachita Vista Trail, a 40-ish mile path through the Ouachita Mountains along the south banks of Lake Ouachita in Garland and Montgomery counties:
PITCH A TENT: The Lake Ouachita Vista Trail boasts the best of both worlds — established areas for car camping and plenty of secluded backcountry for hike-in camping.
THE LOVIT IS A CHOOSE-YOUR-OWNADVENTURE TRAIL
Though it’s under-heralded compared to the “big four” Arkansas hiking trails (Buffalo River Trail, Ouachita Trail, Ozark Highlands Trail and Eagle Rock Loop), the LOViT ranges from a paved ADA-accessible nature loop at its western end to challenging mountainous sections with steep elevation. Since its completion in 2014, it’s also become favored terrain for throngs of mountain bikers, thanks to its designation from the International Mountain Bicycling Association as an Epic Trail, the ultimate seal of approval for long mountain bike trails. Because the LOViT runs roughly parallel to both Lake Ouachita and U.S. Highway 270, you’re unlikely to get dangerously lost. And because there are car-accessible campgrounds along the way, it’s relatively easy to bail if the weather turns or you decide you’d like to sleep in your own bed, thankyouverymuch. For the more wildernessminded among us, there’s abundant Ouachita National Forest backcountry where “primitive” hike-in tent or hammock camping is allowed.
The AllTrails app for iPhone and Android is a reliable source for figuring out how much elevation you want to tackle (or not), and the trail’s builders and caretakers — a group called the LOViT Traildogs — have put together detailed descriptions of each segment of the trail so you can build your own trip. Find it by clicking “The Trails” at lakeouachitavistatrail.org.
THE SCENERY IS A CONSTANT
Like the much-heralded Buffalo River Trail, the Lake Ouachita Vista Trail was designed to hug a waterway, which means that nearly everywhere you hike, you have gorgeous views of the lake. (On the west end of the trail where you’re hiking at lower elevation, this also means near-constant access to water for filtering into your Nalgene bottle, though you’ll want to tote a liter or two of water in reserve up Hickory Nut Mountain, Bear Mountain and Brady Mountain, maybe more for summer and early fall hikes.) Even better, the LOViT Traildogs have installed benches along the length of the trail at scenic vistas, each with a plaque dedicated to a LOViT lover past or present. (One defiant inscription reads: “For John Conley: Jug Fishing Is Too A Sport.”)
Other delights: some truly magnificent sunrises to caffeinate by, the fluffy flash of a white-tailed deer’s namesake as it drinks from a stream, the occasional predawn fishing boat idling near the marinas, the boulder-strewn forests carpeted with olive green moss around Pollard Creek, towering pines, the quartzstudded turf marking sites of bygone quartz mines.
CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE: (Clockwise, from top left) A marker for the 1.25-mile ADA-accessible nature loop at the LOViT’s western end, one of many benches at scenic vistas along the trail, some navigational assistance from the Traildogs, dinnertime at secluded Eagle Vista Loop, a canopy of towering pines, the falls at Charlton Recreation Area and a National Geological Survey medallion on the Old Fire Tower Spur atop Hickory Nut Mountain.
There’s something inherently elitist about paring down all your worldly possessions into a fancy knapsack not because you have to, but because you can. Sure, my pack may make me look less like a savvy thru-hiker and more like a disenchanted kid running away from home, but it’s understood as a hobby and not a necessity, and our view of someone carrying a pack on their back depends on who’s carrying the pack and where they’re doing it. (The pearls that would be clutched at the thought of empowering Little Rock’s unsheltered population with great backpacking gear and open access to public lands and trails!) We tend to tolerate camping as long as it’s tied to consumerism, and there will forever be a proportional link between the weight of your gear and the amount you can shell out for it; “ultralight,” generally speaking, means expensive, and the internet abounds with $700 gossamerthin tents masquerading as crucial investments.
That said, you can absolutely backpack in Arkansas without dropping hundreds of dollars — especially if you’re only planning on being out for a couple of nights and especially if you avoid the winter months. A couple of tips for keeping your backpacking budget in check:
Borrow gear shamelessly and liberally. Is there anyone in your circle of family or friends who spends a lot of time outdoors? You may well be able to borrow the bigger-ticket items you’ll need for a backpacking trip — a tent, a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad — so you can try before you buy. Wondering what you need? Check out our gear list on the next page or one of the myriads of great lists online, talk to the knowledgeable folks at Ozark Outdoor Supply and always make sure you have the 10 essentials: navigation, headlamp and batteries, sun protection, a first-aid kit, a pocket knife, your shelter (tent or hammock), a way to start a fire, extra water/water treatment, seasonappropriate clothing (it gets colder than you think), and a day’s worth of extra food just in case. And if your outdated gear could use a refresh, Facebook groups like Backpacking Arkansas are great places to scout out opportunities for swapping used gear.
Skip the dehydrated backpacking meals. A macronutrient-rich packet of Chicken Pho from Good To Go is going to be both tasty and convenient, but it’s definitely not your cheapest option, and there’s no reason to buy an at-home dehydrator until you’re pretty sure backpacking is going to be something you do regularly. Lowcost trail food like peanuts, oatmeal, chocolate, vacuum-packed tuna, red lentils (not brown — they take forever to cook), instant coffee and instant rice are easy to come by at the grocery store and make great outdoor meals. Pro tip: Check that kitchen drawer where all the forgotten takeout condiments live. Your unused packets of mayo, hot sauce, soy sauce, ketchup or parmesan are perfect additions to a camp meal.
WATER IN THE WILD: Spring LOViT hikes mean abundant water sources, but save the “no filter” philosophy for Instagram; all backcountry water needs to be treated or filtered before it’s safe to drink.
And if we tell you about a few particularly gorgeous spots to camp or relax, will you promise to be good “Leave No Trace” stewards and solemnly swear to pack out every scrap of your trash? Yes? OK. Then check out the Eagle Vista Loop, a secluded peninsula on the Tompkins Bend segment of the trail east of the Tompkins Bend Campground and Shangri La Resort that feels like a slice of paradise. Also: the Old Fire Tower Spur, a short offshoot trail to a site at the summit of Hickory Nut Mountain that bears the concrete anchor remains of a bygone Forest Service tower plus two National Geological Survey medallions installed in the 1950s. (If your tent tends to flop around in the wind, just make this spur a visit and camp downhill at the less-wind-tossed Hickory Nut Mountain Campground.) Lastly, the Charlton Campground and the Brady Mountain Recreation Area and swimming beach — both off the main LOViT path and both accessible by car — are well-maintained car camping getaways for those who don’t want to take the backpacking plunge.
PIT STOPS ALONG THE WAY
Burl’s Smokehouse (10716 Albert Pike Road, Royal): This roadside general store is a convenient place to pick up some house-made jerky, a giant cinnamon roll or a sandwich before you hit the trail. Bonus: loads of weird antique farm and railroad decor to peruse, including a freestanding jail cell from days of yore.
Shangri La Resort (987 Shangri La Drive, Mount Ida): Just off the LOViT near the Tompkins Bend Campground, this mid-century motor court and restaurant serves up some of the best house-made icebox pie in the state, and makes for an appealing backup lodging plan if the weather goes sour or a crucial piece of gear fails.
Joplin Store (5402 U.S. Highway 270): On a 27-mile LOViT hike this spring, a stop at the Joplin Store was my only encounter with civilization. There’s a sparse selection of emergency camping gear in case you forgot something — and if not, some gas station fried potato wedges can lend a welcome caloric boost before ascending Hickory Nut Mountain.
WHAT’S IN MY PACK
The contents of your pack are going to differ based on the length of your trip, the time of year you go, and your level of experience and comfort. You’ll always and forever need the 10 Essentials (see pg. 31), but outside of that, there’s room to customize. Here’s the entirety of what I wear or tote for a solo trip in the spring:
• Map of the trail (You can laminate it at Kinko’s to protect it from rain!) and compass • 45-liter backpack • Tent with rain fly • Inflatable sleeping pad, inflatable pillow • 30-degree sleeping bag • Pooping-in-the-woods sack: trowel, toilet paper • Kula cloth or “wilderness wipes” • Water filter (and treatment tablets as a backup) • Water reservoir for scooping up unfiltered water • Water bottle for filtered water • Food (plus an extra day’s worth) and critterproof food canister • Toothbrush and a dab of toothpaste squeezed into a Ziploc • Notebook and tiny pencil • Bandana (also useful as a potholder) • Camp lantern plus extra batteries • Cookset: camp cup, fuel canister, backpacking stove, lightweight cooking pot, spork • Rechargeable headlamp • Bug spray, chapstick and sunscreen • First-aid kit (backpacking-specific kits can help with blisters) • Matches, rechargeable electric lighter and fire starter chips • Trash bag • Duct tape • Phone battery bank and charging cord • Pocket knife • Sunglasses • Buff (or other neck gaiter) • Rain jacket • Spare pair of socks/underwear • Fleece vest or down jacket • Crocs for wearing at camp or crossing water • Emergency whistle • Bear spray (I’ll likely never use it in Arkansas, but I do know how.) • Car key (Attach to a gear loop inside your bag so it doesn’t fall out!), driver’s license • Base layer clothing: pants, long-sleeved shirt • Foldable sun hat • Hiking boots
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