Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
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F
or centuries, jute has been an integral part of the culture of Bengal. Since the 17th century the British East India Company started trading in Jute. English Jute Barons grew rich processing jute and selling manufactured products made from jute. Dundee Jute Barons and the British East India Company set up many jute mills in Bengal and by 1895 jute industries in Bengal overtook the Scottish jute trade. Many Scots emigrated to Bengal to set up jute factories.
More than a billion jute sandbags were exported from Bengal to the trenches during World War I and also exported to the United States southern region to bag cotton. It was used in the fishing, construction, art and the arms industry. Initially, due to its texture, it could only be processed by hand until it was discovered in that city that by treating it with whale oil, it could be treated by machine. The industry boomed throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, but this trade had largely ceased by about 1970 due to the appearance of synthetic fibers. In the 21st century, Jute has again rose to be an important crop for export around the world in contrast to synthetic fiber.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
04 05 06 07 08
Introduction
Resourceful Options Eco-Friendly Fiber for Modern Products Objective: Relating Jute with Fashion
Fiber to Fashion
09 10 11 12 13
Methodology Research and Development Review of Literature Milestones in Indian Jute Industry High Flying Products
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
14 15 16 17 18
Handicrafts
Specialty Garments Results and Discussion
Future Scope
Conclusion
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References
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
INTRODUCTION
Jute, well known as golden fiber, is used for clothing, cordage and sacking. Jute is factually one of the most resourceful fibers, nature-gifted to man, which has several uses. After cotton, it is the cheapest and most significant of all textile fibers. Jute is the lowest priced ligno-cellulosic, long vegetable bast fiber accessible around the globe.
Jute forming generates work for hundreds of
thousands
of
farmers,
labourers,
industrial workers and indirectly creates job opportunities for several others.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
RESOURCEFUL OPTIONS
Massive acceptance of jute for wide ranges of life-style consumer products is a result of great versatility of this fiber. Spinning and weaving of high-quality yarns into lightweight fine-textured fabrics of standardized constitution in beautiful colours and designs are conducted in both handlooms and factories.
Highly enhanced processes like bleaching, dyeing and finishing; and by mixing jute with other synthetic and natural fibers results in better feel, shine, graze resistance, and artistic appeal.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
ECO-FRIENDLY FIBER FOR MODERN PRODUCTS
As a trade, the history of jute
Bengal is the name conventionally
products can be traced back to the
attached to jute products. Since the
17th century, i.e. during the British
ancient times, the women folk of
rule. The Tatas, the Birlas, the Bajajs
Bengal
and the Mittals – the legendary
products, basically for household
business tycoons of India had as
storage. Today, Bengal is the chief
their first business, jute products to
manufacturer of jute products in
be exported and imported. The
India. For centuries, jute has been
honour
largest
associated with flexible packaging,
producer of Jute products in the
specially sacks, shopping bags and
world goes to India. High moisture-
coarse doormats. And that’s it –
absorption capacity, flexibility and
there ends the domain of jute
drainage properties are the features
products.
of
being
the
have
been
using
jute
characteristic of jute as an ecofriendly fiber and so jute products
Jute Jewellery, Apparels and Wall
are
Hangings: These were out of the
considered
acceptable
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environmentalists.
ecologically by
the Advantages
range of human imagination in earlier times. But in today’s date,
enjoyed by jute products over other
multiple and versatile jute products
fibers are abundant availability and
are creating a global market,
bio-degradable properties.
resurrecting after it lost to synthetic packaging during the 1970s.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
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OBJECTIVE: Relating Jute with Fashion
Massive acceptance of jute for wide
ranges
of
life-style
consumer products is a result of great versatility of this fiber. Spinning and weaving of highquality yarns into light-weight fine-textured
fabrics
of
standardized
constitution
in
beautiful colours and designs are conducted in both handlooms and factories.
Highly enhanced processes like bleaching, dyeing and finishing; and by mixing jute with other synthetic
and
natural
fibers
results in better feel, shine, graze resistance, and artistic appeal.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
FIBER TO FASHION
The gorgeously embroidered jute apparels can make nice replicas of silk and can give the other fiber industries a run for their money! The Indian Jute Industries Research Association (IJIRA) in association with the Indian Jute Industry has recently developed food-grade jute bags conforming to international standard specifications. These bags and cloth have a large demand in export markets for packing cocoa beans, coffee beans, shelled nuts and other food products. Furniture is the latest forthcoming area in the domain of jute products.
Decorative jute bags, jute slippers, shoes and nonreusable slip-ons and jute wall-hangings are gaining popularity worldwide. Be it conserving the soil and environment or in applications like civil engineering or packaging and fashion industry, the time has come for this natural eco-friendly fiber to take over with the ideal solutions for saving the modern world. One of the most valuable natural resources of India, jute is a truly versatile fiber and that is the essence behind the popularity of jute products in the world scenario.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
METHODOLOGY
For centuries, Jute is being cultivated in India.
Jute Industry in India: A Glance
Jute is the prime crop in the eastern region. The major jute cultivating provinces are Assam, West Bengal, Bihar, Tripura, Orissa and Uttar Pradesh. At present, the production of the fiber in India is nearly 10 million bales and 73 jute factories are currently operating in India. In addition, there are quite a lot of small scale industries in the decentralized segment, making handicrafts, decorative items, yarns and pulp from jute. The jute products from Madhya Pradesh are an exclusive blend of artistic sense and usefulness. Skilled craftsmen at Hasta Shilp Vikas Nigam already have experimented with the fiber. Each artistic work unveils an exclusive charisma to it and the items so made are marketed via the Madhya Pradesh State
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Emporium “Mriganayani�. Other major centers of jute production are Raipur, Indore, Bhopal and Gwalior.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
R&D
conducted
for
reputed
Indian
institutes has led to an intensification of the natural characteristics of jute fiber. Technological
aid
along
with
government’s developmental efforts have made jute cross the threshold of several range of applications, contributing to continuous
human
development,
generating employment opportunities, enhancing ultra-fashion apparels and textiles
and
offering
a
cleaner
environment.
Extensive R&D through many research institutes,
most
supported
by
the
government of India, resulted in amazing
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penetration in the diversification of
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
Jute can be considered as an eco-friendly natural fiber for hundreds of application prospects, than range from geo-textiles to apparel, carpet, decorative items, upholstery, home furnishings, fancy non-wovens (fashion), etc. With versatility, jute deserves to be considered as the best fiber for the future. In near future, a number of jute factories and mini jute mills will be witnessed as more
engaged
manufacturing
in of
a jute
considerable and
way
blended
in
yarns,
especially via various ways of manufacturing to produce value added yarns. This versatile fiber can be used in many applications, however, the traditional usage has been sustained in packing as Hessian, sacking, and carpet backing. These light weight yarns are likely to be utilized in value added textile production like home furnishings, upholstery, apparel, bags, etc.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
MILESTONES IN INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRY
The biggest manufacturer of raw jute around the globe
The largest producer of jute goods worldwide
The immense capabilities to produce the huge range of product assortment
Complete and high standard R&D facilities in the segment of jute agriculture, developing the product and machinery
World standard infrastructure, such as ports, logistic facilities, etc.
A pulsating industry, oriented to provide the highest buyer satisfaction
The capacity to manufacture and cater to the global demands for fashion apparel and foodgrade jute bags
Food-grade jute bags and cloth produced in India – are an advantage in the framework of worldwide environmental and natural distress. Indian food-grade jute bags have a doubleedged benefit: preserving food in an all-natural way
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
HIGH FLYING PRODUCTS
Jute is hydro-carbon free and can be used for packaging food-grade products, such as coffee, cocoa, shelled nut and many more. It is also used for manufacturing jute-blended yarns, jute-viscose, juteacrylic, and jute-cotton. Jute contents differ by 60-70% in weight in these products.
These yarns are used in making shawls, blankets, thick materials and pullovers. Manufacturing of fine blended yarns utilizing jute-silk, jute-wool, jute-cotton, etc. for garment utilization, where jute
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content is nearly 30-40%.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
HANDICRAFTS
The traditional Indian craftsmanship and art is reflected in a huge range of jute clothing, handicrafts, decorative materials and many more products. Exotic product assortment of jute comprises floor covering and carpets, window/door and wall coverings, table-mats, swings, bags, hammocks, room-dĂŠcor,
bedroom
slippers,
bedspreads, shawls, blankets, shirts, skirts and other clothing items and an ideal host for many other home-textile and fashion products.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
15 SPECIALTY GARMENTS
Warm over-garments made of jute with motifs and designs have become a reality and are well accepted by consumers at large for their warmth, ecofriendliness and aesthetic appeal. Fire retardant jutecotton union fabric was also developed with textile-grade resin in presence of phosphate. The resin uptake was 2-3%, while the phosphorus uptake was 3-4% for achieve optimum fire retardance. Nowadays, excellent research has been done to diversify the end-uses of jute to suit the technical and engineering aspects of several functions. Enormous amount of research has gone into all jute processing processes, starting from development of new applications like fashion clothing, home furnishings, composites and garments, which will improve demand of jute in the mass market as a high performance fabric. In order to modify the surface characteristics of the jutecotton blended fabric, it is subjected to various treatments with chemicals to improve the feel of hand, without affecting other desirable properties. Although wollenization enables lateral swelling of fibers, a great strength loss occurs due to the excessive removal of pectin that acts as binder molecules.
Hence, it is important to assess the properties and feel of fabrics treated. The fabric samples are initially soaked well with detergent in order to remove the contaminations. Raw jute during the retting process undergoes biological degradation of binding materials and the residue is in the dispersed form within the molecules of jute. Scouring is the process of removing the foreign contaminants in the material such as grease, stains, etc. and is accomplished with caustic soda in case of cotton fibres. But, jute is very sensitive to caustic soda and major implications, such as structural variations, drop in tensile strength, etc. are reported with its use. Hence, utilization of mild alkali is recommended such as sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, etc. The main limitation of jute and its blended fabrics is its high magnitude of protruding hairs on its surface, limiting its use in apparels and decreasing its smoothness. Hence, the need for dehairing the fiber, which is done in three phases, consisting of treating it with oxalic acid and washing in cold water.
Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Jute, the golden fiber has gained immense popularity around the globe because of its bio-degradability. It is a natural vegetable fiber, which merges with soil and does not emit toxic fumes or residue on combustion. Indian is a major jute producing economy and it produces more than 40% of the entire world jute production. Jute fiber is a natural fiber that has extensive use in jute mills to produce a variety of jute products like jute bags, jute carpets, jute blankets, jute fiber base, woolen blankets, etc‌ It has a very good demand in our indigenous market as well and also has a very good export demand.
Technologies are available in India to design and fabricate the proper plant and machineries. It requires specific spinning machines for the spinning of the jute yarns. The Indian textile industry is predominantly catering to the huge domestic market out of the total trade. Jute garments are gaining popularity in recent times. These fashion garments in many new and innovating designs are fetching high prices in the market and their demand in increasing at a tremendous pace.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
FUTURE SCOPE
Finer
yarns
can
be
used
for
construction of knitted fabrics to impart the good hand to the fabric. More
advanced
modifications
like
chemical acetylation,
methylation, etc. can be investigated to improve the structural and comfort based properties of the blends. Usage of jute is increasing for blended fabrics for all seasons with necessary treatments and finishes.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
CONCLUSION
Based on the results and discussions, the
used
to
fiber based yarn, dyes and quenching
for approximately 15% of decrease in
oil.
thermal
conductivity
when
This
decrease
enhances
the
in
blends decreases by 28.39% and
conductivity
thermal
31.41% respectively than that of the
retention
original fabric. Decrease in crease
characteristics and makes it quite
resistance improves the creases in the
suitable as winter wear. The country exports around 5 million tones of jute goods annually. As the demand
for
jute
garments
Crease resistance angle for processed fabric in 40/60 and 50/50 jute-cotton
compared with the original fabric.
fabric that imparts a smooth feel.
Drape coefficient of 40/60 Jute-cotton or jute-silk blends decreases by
is
21.66% compared to the original
increasing, there exists a great scope
whereas in the 50/50 blends, it is
of new entrepreneurs to enter this
materials
Chemically modified fabrics account
its
raw
manufacture jute garments are jute
following conclusions can be made:
The
only 3.1% to that of the original. This
field.
increase enables the fabric to be best
Garments made of jute are not only
suited for apparel sewing.
soft but also good for skin, as it causes
Bursting strength of the 40/60 blend
no irritation. It can be used as warm
decreases by 14.02% with the original
clothes, bed covers and also for home
whereas
décor.
increase by 10.44% in 50/50 blends,
it
gets
a
pronounced
when compared to the unprocessed original fabric.
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Colloquium Paper: Jute and Fashion, by Arnabi Konar (FD VII, Roll- 04)
REFERENCES
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1. A Cavhco Paula et al: Textile Processing with enzymes, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, 2003 2. The Indian Jute: book 3. Amarjit S. Basra: Cotton Fibres – Developmental biology, quality improvement and textile processing, food products. Press, New York 1999 4. Robert R. Frank: Bast and other plant fibers, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge 2005, pp 24-92 5. S. Amsamani et al: Jute-cotton T-shirts for cold nights, Indian textiles journal, May 2005, pp 9395 6. J. Jeyakodi Moses et al: Effect of Thermal properties on textile fabrics suitable for winter season, man-made textiles in India, Nov 2003, pp 31-44 7. A. K. Samanta et al: Effect of selective pre-treatments and subsequent mixed enzyme treatment on properties of Jute-cotton union fabric, Indian Journal of fibre and textile research, Vol 30, Dec 2005, pp 451-467 8. Roy Tamal and Sur Debanjan (2003): Hand book on Jute, Indian Jute Industries Research Association, Kolkata 9. Textile Trends (2007): Eastland Publications Pvt. Ltd. Kolkata, pp 35-37, No. 2, Vol-1 10. Online: http://texmin.nic.in/ermindel/indian_jute.pdf 11. The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani Haryana – Neeraj Kaushik 12. An Overview of jute functional finishes, by L. Sasi Kala, Department of Textile Technology, Kumuruguru College of Technology